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presents

Going Beyond
the Rainbow
A C OLOR GUI DE F O R CO N SCI EN TI OU S M AKE RS
Personal name
Lymm, Emily, author.

Main title
Going Beyond the Rainbow : A Color Guide

Going Beyond
for Conscientious Makers / Emily Lymm ;
photography by Amaren Colosi.

Edition
First U.S. edition: November 2021.

Published/Produced
Portland, Oregon : Wool & Palette,
the Rainbow
[2021] A C O LO R G UI DE FOR CONSCI ENTI OUS M AK ER S
BY EM I LY LY M M OF WOOL & PAL ETTE
Description
15 pages : illustrations & photography ;
28 cm

LC Subjects
Color in knitting
Knitting
Color Theory

Copyright © 2021
All rights reserved. No part of this book
may be reproduced in any form without
written permission from the author.

Design and art direction: Emily Lymm


Studio photography: Amaren Colosi
Star motif design: Jessica McDonald
Designs

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Reaching for that perfect color
I’m Emily, and I help conscientious makers build a
symbiotic relationship with their craft by creating a
hand-dyed yarn that exclusively extracts colors from
nature. This yarn is responsibly sourced and dyed
in small batches to provide the highest quality with
the deepest color. Together, we engage in conscious
change, ensuring that the journey of the fiber is
sustainably created.

Before I became a natural dyer, I spent 16 years as


a graphic designer and art director. One of the best
parts of my job was creating color palettes. It was an
obsession. Honestly, it would be futile to calculate
the number of hours I poured over Pantone swatch-
es to find the PERFECT shade. I’m passionate about
going beyond the standard 12-step color wheel to
discover the colors in between colors. To see what’s
beyond the rainbow.

Natural dyeing is a feat in logistics and experimenta-


tion that relies on plants, bugs, and minerals as part
of an intricate process. And it’s fun. I’m constantly
tweaking, always pushing to make that orange a tiny
bit more red or that blue a little bit more gray. My
biggest challenge is determining the color that will
make it into your wardrobe and stay there.

When you’re creating a beloved garment for a


capsule wardrobe, consider a different path. Push
yourself past your go-to color palette to create some-
thing magical. That’s why I created this guide. Let’s
discover a new combination beyond the rainbow.

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How to use this guide
Choosing cohesive color combinations is a blend of
art and science. In this guide, you will learn some
fundamental color theories. By using the color wheel
and some basic formulas, choosing appealing com-
binations will no longer feel like a mystery. You’ll be
able to discover color harmonies.

COLOR WHEEL

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COLOR HARMONIES ANALOGOUS
This scheme uses two to five col-
ors next to each other on the color
of some colors, you can get dramatic
results.
Color harmonies are essential be- Next is saturation. It refers to the wheel. By rearranging the intensity
cause, without them, your palettes intensity and vibrancy of a hue. A
can appear bland, or on the oppo- desaturated color is muted, while a
site end, chaotic and busy. saturated color is rich and robust.

Early on, we are taught that the The darkness or lightness of a color
primary colors are red, blue, and is its value. We can create shades
yellow. When mixed, they make of color by adding black, tints of our
orange, green, and purple, or as you color by adding white, or tones by
know them – secondary colors. If adding gray.
you go one step further and com-
bine the secondary colors, you will Finally, there is temperature. The
find the tertiary colors: orange-red, color wheel splits into two parts,
blue-purple, and so on. I like to hang warm colors and cool colors. When
out in this zone and refer to them as you consider these four principles,
the colors in between colors. you can see there are countless COMPLEMENTARY
possibilities. So, to simplify the This uses two colors from opposite yellow and purple. This type of color
Each color in the wheel possess- choices at hand, we can use for- sides of the color wheel like red scheme is excellent for creating
es four main qualities. The first is mulas or color harmonies to create and green, orange and blue, and contrast.
the hue. This is the color position balanced, appealing combinations.
around the wheel and the brightest, There are six.
purest version of each color.

MONOCHROMATIC
This takes one base color or hue and the darkest, most saturated color,
uses different shades, tones, or tints and each successive bath will contin-
to create a group of colors. Natural ue to lighten as less pigment remains SPLIT COMPLEMENTARY
dyeing easily lends itself to this color in the pot, leaving behind a gradient This is similar to a complementary tary while adding more variety. The
harmony. The first dye bath will show of colors. scheme, except one of the colors result is more subtlety and complex-
splits into two nearby colors, keeping ity.
the high contrast of the complemen-

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TRIADIC fundamentals. At least now you can formula: one dominant color, one con-
wow your friends at dinner with your trasting color, and one neutral color
This uses three evenly spaced colors “brown” knowledge. to tie them all together.
to form a triangle. The result is often
bold and vibrant. Third, consider your medium. Learn-
HELPFUL TIPS ing the components of color theory
In reality, not every palette is going to can help you know what works well
fall perfectly within the color harmo- together, but context is crucial. This
ny rules. There’s a bit of nuance that guide is geared toward yarn and
comes into play. Here are some tips building a capsule wardrobe. That’s
for navigating your way through the why I’ve provided inspirational pal-
spectrum. ettes on pages 10-12 that will more
closely represent attractive, wearable
First, pick one dominant color. Which- wardrobe options.
ever color harmony you use, choosing
one dominant color and the others Besides Pinterest, another excellent
as accents for more minor details will color source of inspiration is
create a sense of balance in your color.adobe.com. This site allows
design. you to push and pull hue levers and
TETRADIC Next, use just a few shades. For
adjust your base color to get harmo-
nious combinations. Use the explore
These are colors in a rectangle or ing accents. This can be the trickiest example, the star motifs on page 11 tab to find already composed pal-
square shape of two sets of comple- palette to get right. To avoid a circus all contain three hues. They follow a ettes.
mentary colors. These palettes work of conflicting hues, include some
best when you focus on one primary neutral tones. And use the support-
color and use the others as contrast- ing colors in smaller amounts.

NEUTRALS
Neutrals occur when complementary reaches its perfect neutral. The pri-
colors mix. Below is an illustration mary browns are sienna from red and
of how each original hue mixes with green, ochre from yellow and purple,
its complement in equal steps until it and umber from orange and blue.

This guide wouldn’t be complete complete accuracy, I was not allowed


without mentioning neutrals. In col- to presume any other projects. That’s
lege, I took several oil painting class- how important it was to nail this con-
es as a part of my BFA. I kid you not; cept of understanding mixing paints
I spent two weeks making neutrals thoroughly. Do you need to master
with oil paint to complete a chart like this concept in any capacity - Nope!
the one on the next page, only much But I find this rarely covered, and it
more robust. Until I finished this with is so crucial to understanding the

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INSPIRED PALETTES Capsule wardrobe color formula: one dominant color, one contrasting color,
and one neutral color. This star motif was inspired by Jessica McDonald’s
Ruska sweater design.
It’s time to put everything into con- any of these to influence your next
text. On the following pages, you will project.
find a sea of palettes. Feel free to use

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THE COLORS IN BETWEEN COLORS
Remember at the beginning where are some of my favorite color combi-
I referenced the colors in between nations because of their subtlety and
colors? This is what I meant. These nuance.

42 yarn colors and counting

Follow along on Instagram and Facebook for stories about natural


dyeing and behind the scenes content. The yarn palette is ever
growing. New colors will be releasing in February, 2022. Sign up
for the newsletter to stay in the loop.

Woolandpalette.com wool.and.palette

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