Raising/Brushing/Emerising

Ref: enclyclopedia of Textile Finishing, Vol 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeB2IfDfzg4.
 Surface Effects
Peach finish

https://youtu.be/yeB2IfDfzg4
 Applications
• upholstery fabric
• outer wear
• home textiles
• technical fabrics
• blankets
• decorative fabrics
• automobile
• lining
• toys plush
• imitation fur
 Raising
A finishing process that raises the
surface fibres of a fabric by
means of passage over rapidly
revolving cylinders covered with
metal points or teasel burrs.
Imparts a hairy surface, improved
fullness and softer handle to
fabrics.
Eg.- Outing, flannel, fleece,
blankets, carpets
Improved thermal insulation and
warmth.

Ref: New method for raising high-quality fabrics, JTI, 100(4):358-367 ·2009
DOI: 10.1080/00405000701830649
 Raising Machine With
Carding Rollers
R= Reel drum
D = Direction of goods
a = Counterpile roller
b = Pile roller
12-36 card rollers, alternating
nap/counternap rollers
Ratio of pile to counterpile
roller: 1/3

The machine also includes some rotating brushes, which suction-clean the nibs in
pile and counterpile directions.
Two series of rollers have independent motion and can rotate with different speed
and direction thus carrying out different effects.
• The fuzzy surface is created by pulling the fibre
end out of the yarns by means of metal
needles provided with hooks shelled into the
rollers that scrape the fabric surface.
• Ends of the needles protruding from the rollers
are 45°-hooks; their thickness and length can
vary and they are fitted in a special rubber belt
spiral-wound on the raising rollers.
• These rollers are generally alternated with a
roller with hooks directed toward the fabric
feed direction (pile roller), and a roller with the
hooks fitted in the opposite direction
(counterpile roller).
 Raising machines

5 different axles :
Main Drum;
Counterpile Raising
rollers;
Pile Raising rollers;
Fabric tension;
Fabric Speed;

https://www.danti.it/technology/technology-raising/
Raising machines
Series of raising rollers covered by an
ordered alignment of needles placed
on a flange with circular settlement
(5).

“Pile” and “counterpile” raising rollers,

according to the direction which the
needles are plied.
Raising rollers rotating on their axle,
pile and counterpile (1,2) rotating in
the same direction.
• The flange on which the raising
rollers are fixed is also rotating on
its axle.
• The assembly of raising rollers fixed
on two side flanges is called “main
drum”.
• Fabric (4) sliding on the raising
drum; at fabric entry, a driven roller
(called tension roller (3) is
controlling the feeding of the fabric.
• Fabric speed roller(6), controls the
sliding speed of the fabric on the
main drum.
 Factors Affecting Raising Effect

1. Material tension is very important (PLC controls).

2. Speed of nap rollers : Reducing the speed of nap
rollers and increasing that of counter nap rollers
will enhance the raising effect.
3. Physical characteristics of weft yarns: Staple
length, fibre fineness, shape and surface of fibre,
yarn twist.
4. Temperature and humidity conditions.
5. Fabric binding
6. Presence of finishing agents.
 Shearing after Raising

• Shearing tool
• Brush Roller to raise pile
• Precision control of shear height
• Suction nozzle to remove shear lint
• Vacuum - Cooling – Lubrication
• Seam detector-thickness
measuring device
 Types of Raising

• Raising in loom state

• Raising after fabric preparation and
• Raising after dyeing.
Wet and dry raising processes.
Wet raising - less time and gives laid pile, requires
less mechanical action.
Dry raising - prominent pile and takes more
time,needs repeated drum roller action.
Moisture content of the fabric is also very important
 Raising Knitted Fabrics

Velour fabrics- Knitted with a loop pile on the

face. Loops should stand erect without twisting, so
twist factor should be higher than 3.8, Loop ht.
Should be 3.0-3.8 mm.
Raising preferably carried out after dyeing and
drying.
Shearing should be done before dyeing, as loops
are more erect and can be cut more uniformly.
Less wt. loss and a longer pile is achievable.
 Types of Raised Fabrics

Staple – fibre spun yarn fabrics: In woollens,

worsteds or cotton velours a layer of fibres is
pulled out from the structure of the fabric to form
a pile. This results in lofty handle and may subdue
the weave or pattern of the cloth in addition to
blending the various colours.
Continuous filament synthetic yarns: Loops in
fabric structure are stretched by raising but not
usually broken. Used for nightwear or bed sheets.
Properties Affected by Raising

Tensile Strength
Abrasion Resistance
Air Permeability
Thickness
Thermal Insulation
Flammability
Ref:Touhiduzzaman, Rashid KMM, Syduzzaman (2015) Effects of Raising
and Sueding on the Physical and Mechanical Properties of Dyed Knitted
Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 5: 228. doi:10.4172/2165-8064.1000228
 Emerising/Sueding/Sanding

Fabric passed over rotating

emery-covered rollers. A very
low pile created on the surface.
Eg. Cotton denim -suede like finish
PET microfilament fabrics-a peach-skin
effect if a softener is added.
Brushing roller (Lafer)
Microfibre fabrics should be
emerised before dyeing.
Otherwise shade is affected and
coloured dust is generated.

Emery roller (Lafer)

Emerising finish
 Emerising Machines
Sever the protruding fibres to produce a
velvet-like nap or pile. Crease free state is
required.
Single - roller type: consist of one abrasive-
covered metal roller and one rubber –
covered compression or pressure roller. The
former may be refrigerant cooled to dissipate
the heat generated from friction.
Used on fabrics with terry loops on the face
which must be broken. Have the ability to
exert mechanical action on fabric at a
precisely adjustable grinding depth.
 Emerising Machines
Multi-roller type:
4-8 rollers covered with emery paper.
1st roller runs in the counter direction to fabric passage
exerting mechanical action against the wefts thus lifting
the surface.

2nd roller runs in the direction of fabric passage thus

emerising the weft.

3rd roller runs in the opposite direction and the following

ones in the same direction as the fabric.

Microfibre fabrics: 12-15m/ min;

Spun yarn fabrics: 15-25m/min
Knits: 10-20m/ min.
Parameters Affecting Emerising

Fabric construction:
Weft yarns contribute the most to the effect. 2/1 or 3/1 twill
produces good effect.

Abrasives and emery grades:

Coarse grade (80-100) produces dense long pile.
Medium grade
(280-320) produces short dense nap with lightweight fabrics.
Fine grade (400-600) with fine microfibres of PET and nylon
Very fine (600-800) have a polishing effect.
 Emerising for Stone-washed
Effect
Biancalani Petra machine imparts a controlled stone
wash effect by its buffing action.
Fabric is subjected on one side to the action of a
number of hinged transversal beams to which an
abrasive material is fastened.
These bars are adjustable in angle and pressure
against the fabric and abrade the fabric as it passes
from roll to roll.
Applied to light wt. silk fabrics, heavy cotton denim,
bleached fabrics and synthetic fabrics.