Zenit Checking for light leaks

Ver 1.0 N.L. 24/05/2022

There are Subtle changes between years and models, so there may be some discrepancies. Check in the files
section of the Zenit Camera Club Facebook group for updates & other guides.

Please say ‘Hi’ to me, Nige Last, in the group, if this guide has been useful or additional help is
required.

See separate document as to how to remove the top, which can be found in the files section of Facebook in
The Zenit Camera Club group. Removal of the top is not necessary for checking for light leaks.

See separate document as to how to replace the prism foam and light seals, which can be found in the files
section of Facebook in The Zenit Camera Club group.

NOTE:- ALL ZENIT CAMERAS SUFFER FROM PRISM DAMAGE CAUSED BY FOAM
ROT. IF THE FOAM IS NOT CHANGED. PLEASE CONSIDER CHANING THE PRISM
FOAM ELSE YOUR CAMERA WILL SUFFER THIS DAMAGE

The plastic topped Zenit ETs, made by Belomo are notorious for light leaks. Extra light sealing was added to
one copy, consisting of a baffle and seals to the rewind post. This eliminated almost all light leaks, leaving
only light entering via the viewfinder when held up to the sun. Normally one’s eye would be enough to
block light when looking through the viewfinder, but additional steps were also taken to cure this. Full
details are found in the foam replacement document.

Examining the negatives can be a great aid to tracing light leaks. Remember the image projected onto the
negative will be upside down and back to front. Only the 36x24mm frame is exposed to the front of the
camera. So, if the area around the sprocket holes and out to the edge of the film are clear, it shows light is
not getting into the back of the camera.

For non-battery models with a top mounted light meter (E, ET, EM, 11),
Start by removing the lens and opening the back door. Then, in a darkened room with a strong torch, shine it
into the light-meter window on top of the camera. Look into the front of the camera, up left & right, for any
light getting in. Carefully raise the mirror with a finger, to give a clearer view. Move the torch to different
angles whilst viewing.

Repeat, but this time shine the torch onto the light-sensor on the front of the camera and to either side of it.

Repeat all of the above, but this time look into the back of the camera.

For all cameras,

Examine the light seal around the back of the camera, where the door closes. It is a woollen yarn, so should
never degrade. It should be continuous without gaps along the top and the bottom. There should be a felt
seal on the door, mounted vertically, on the hinge side. Late model 122 cameras were not fitted with door
light seals.
The mirror should raise when taking a photo. On some cameras there may be a slight gap between the bump
stop and the mirror, others my close fully. A slight gap of around 1mm is ok, but more could give issues.

Set the shutter to ‘B’, wind on, press and hold the shutter button. The mirror should flip up and stay up until
the shutter is released. Shining a torch into the viewfinder whilst the mirror is up, will show how much light
can get into the front of the camera when taking a photo. All cameras SLR cameras let light in via this route,
but it is normally blocked by the photographer’s eye. The amount however should not be excessive.

Next examine the shutter. In a darkened room, carefully lift the mirror and shine a torch onto the shutter
curtain whilst observing from the rear. Can any light leaks or pin-holes be seen through the curtain?

Wind the camera on slowly and two vertical metal bars will be seen moving across. Stop winding when they
are visible and again check with a torch, that there is no light getting through these metal bars.

Wind on again until the metal bars are in the middle of the opening and recheck.

Again, wind on until the bars are towards the other end of the opening and recheck. (These are the edges of
the two shutter curtains and they move at slightly different speeds, so could leave a small gap between them,
if they are out of alignment or worn).

Finally, wind on fully and recheck for light leaks and pin-holes with a torch.

If the top is removed, some additional checks can be performed.

Whilst looking in the front of the camera, shine a torch on the top. Much light will be seen getting in from
around the prism and from the side. This will of course be far more severe than with the top on, but gives a
good idea of how light could possibly get in.

Repeat, but this time look into the back of the camera. Shine the torch on and around the rewind post, with
the rewind both shaft up and down. You may see light getting down here. This was noticeable on the plastic
topped ET, as the casting for the post has changed, leaving a big gap.

If the camera has a light sensor mounted on the top of the camera (E, EM, ET, 11) shine a torch onto and all
around the sensor from the outside, whist viewing inside. The plastic ET found to let much light in either
side of the light sensor, which could find it’s way onto the film.

There is a document describing how to replace the light seals, found I the Zenit Camera Club facebook
group.

Below are a few photos, detailing the issues and resolutions

The blue arrows on the photograph show where the original foam light seals were replaced with new EPDM.

The yellow arrow shows the slight change on this model, the casting has been extended to separate the door
back seals (these are wool and never need replacing) and the foam under the eyepiece

The red arrows show the additional light seals added.

The green arrows show where light gets into the mirror-box, between the prism & prism housing.

Between the top of the prism and the black securing strip lives the foam that rots and destroys the prism. The
photo shows the foam replaced, with aluminium foil between the new foam and the prism, to avoid direct
contact.
Self-adessive felt was added either side of the rewind post

A cardboard baffle was made, purple arrow, and secured under the prism retaining strip screw and stuck to
the EPDM foam. It was deliberately not affixed to the prism. (Paranoia about damaging the silvering with
adessives).
This stops light getting down the side of the prism (green arrows in photo above). It also blocks light getting
to the far side of the prism and down the diaphragm lever hole.
This photo shows the top of the Zenit. The light-meter can be seen (gold colour) and it sits very low.
Light was found to be entering either side of the light sensor, red and green arrows. EPDM foam was added
to block the light. Upon reassembly, it was found the piece arrowed red was too deep and fouled the aperture
mech, so was replaced with a much thinner piece.

The camera was reassembled and tested with film, also offering the camera to bright sunlight, at all angles.
The film was perfect, no light leaks.
A Zenit TTL having the rotting prism foam removed. Note how it is all sticky and tearing apart.

All the gunky foam, having been picked off, but still stuck over the prism strap.
A strong torch shone through the shutter shows the damaged shutter, caused by the rubberised front sticking
when on the roller.

Without a torch, the damaged shutter cannot be seen.

Please visit the Facebook Zenit Camera Club Group, to say ‘thanks’ if this guide was useful