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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea, Coffee and Heena )

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 INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL FOR RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT Volume-16,Issue-6, (DEC-2021)
IN TECHNOLOGY ISSN (O) :- 2349-3585

Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea, Coffee and

Heena )
Dr Sumanta Bhattacharya1, Dr Sparsha Moni Chatterjee 2, Monidipa Sarkar 3
Research Scholar at MAKAUT , Public–Foreign-Defence Policy Analyst , C.E , CH.E , CCIO ,M.Tech (Chemical Processing in
Textile Technology) , M.A in Development Studies, LLB , M.A in Security and Defence Law , DIA&D , DG&GS ,PGCPP&A ,
MPI(oxford University) ORCID ID : 0000-0003-2563-278711
Ex Vice Chancellor of IIST shipbur , Member of Executive Council AICTE ,Former Director of Technical Education, Chairman of
BOAA,IIHT , Ministry of Textile (Govt of India).Member of Development commission (Govt of India) 2
MBA (Textile Management), Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International School of Textile Management, M.Tech (Chemical Processing in
Textiles), Govt. College of Engineering & Textile Technology, Serampore 3

Abstract – We use natural dyes for material as a result of we
wish one thing non-carcinogenic and not harmful to the
environment. Natural coloring is bit by bit creating its means
within the world market and therefore the production of
naturally unreal eco-friendly textiles itself may be a boon to
save lots of the setting from unsafe artificial dyes. Not all
natural materials can turn out a dye, and a few turn out
colours that square measure nothing just like the original
plant it came from. .Natural dyes will come back from varied
components of a plant - the flower, the berry, the leaves,
branches or roots or from the bark, wood or cones. Flowers
are often used as they're or crushed. Berries ought to be
crushed. Leaves, branches, and roots (or rhizomes) ought to
be sliced as finely as potential and allowed to soak in
lukewarm water for twelve hours, then heated and stewed for
1-2 hours. Wood, bark and cones ought to be within the kind
of woodchips, wood or crushed and soaked for three days
before slowly heating and boiling for 2-3 hours. material
ought to then be strained out and therefore the dye tub cooled
to temperature. Pre-wetted, mordanted fiber will then be
additional to the dye tub.. A written cloth are often created by
a good style of ways like stencil printing, block printing,
screen printing, roller printing etc. textile printing has evolved
itself over the course of last century terribly} very systematic
and scientific means. Among all the printing techniques,
screen printing and block printing square measure the
foremost vital industrially and commercially used. Thickeners
utilized in textile printing square measure high relative
molecular mass compounds giving viscose paste in water
Keywords : Natural dye , material , block printing , textile
printing , written cloth , non-carcinogenic , screen printing
Introduction
Dyes derived from natural materials like plant leaves, roots,
bark, insect secretions and minerals were the sole dyes
obtainable to group for the coloring of textiles till the invention
of the primary artificial dye in I856. fast analysis strides in
artificial chemistry supported by the industry of textile
production not solely semiconductor diode to the event of
artificial alternatives to widespread natural dyes however
additionally to variety of artificial dyes in numerous hues and
colours that gently pushed the natural dyes into oblivion but,
environmental problems within the production and application
of artificial dyes yet again revived client interest in natural dyes
throughout the last decades of the 20 th century. Textiles
coloured with natural dyes square measure most well-liked by
environmentally aware customers and nowadays there's a
distinct segment marketplace for such textiles. On the opposite
hand, artificial dyes, that square measure wide obtainable at a
cost-effective value and manufacture a large type of colours,
typically causes skin allergic reaction and alternative
harmfulness to body, produces toxicity/chemical hazards
throughout its synthesis, releases undesirable/hazardous/toxic
chemicals etc. For victorious industrial use of natural dyes for
any specific fiber, the suitable and standardized techniques for
coloring for that exact fiber-natural dye system got to be
adopted. so to get newer shade with acceptable color fastness

35
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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )
behaviour and duplicable color yield, acceptable scientific
coloring techniques/procedures square measure to be derived.
Thus, relevant scientific studies and its output on
standardization of coloring ways, coloring method variables,
coloring mechanics and take a look at of compatibility of
selective natural dyes became vital, but the data on that is light.
Limitation on color yield and poor fastness properties prompted
a pursuit for ideal mordant, the chemicals that increase natural
dye uptake by textile fibers. differing kinds of mordant yield
totally different colours even for constant natural dye.
Therefore, final color, their brilliance and color fastness
properties don't seem to be solely depending on the dye itself
however are determined by varied concentration and skillful
manipulation of the mordant. Thus, a mordant is additional vital
than the dye itself. Moreover, the best mordant for bulk use
ought to manufacture considerable color yield infeasible
coloring conditions at low value, while not seriously moving
physical properties of fiber or fastness properties of the dyes.
Also, it mustn't cause any pernicious impact throughout process
and also the bleached textile material mustn't have any
malignant neoplastic disease impact throughout use.
An attempt has been created here to ascertain associate degree
optimum method parameters for the printing undertaken
victimisation natural dyes.
Literature Review
The trials were below taken to screen print silk cloth
with dak flower dye extract mistreatment natural thickening
against i.e. cassia seed gum and mango kernel gum with 2
mordant. sulfate and ferric salt was designated for the
experiments. The screen written samples were studied for color
fastness properties and CIE laboratory values. Results of silk
screen written samples with each the mordant exhibited superb
to wonderful results fastness rating for lightweight, washing,
rubbing and perspirations. The results disclosed that silk cloth
will with success screen written with natural dye and natural
thickening agents.
In this work, the suitableness of printing natural
materials (wool, silk, cotton and flax) with 2 natural dyes
(alkanet and rhubarb) mistreatment pigment-printing technique
has been investigated. The result of various factors, i.e. dye
concentration, nature of thickening agent, form of fixation,
concentration and sort of mordant, has been studied. The
36
written product were evaluated by measure the K/S worth and
also the overall fastness properties. Results show that the best
K/S worth was obtained by mistreatment Meypro gum
as a thickening. Moreover, results show that the written
product, that were mounted via steaming, have comparatively
higher color strength than their corresponding samples mounted
via thermofixation. The result of mordants on color
development was additionally studied associated bugloss dye
was chosen as an example for this investigation. the simplest
results were obtained by mistreatment mordant at a level of
twenty g/kg printing paste. completely different| color yields
might be obtained by mistreatment different mordants, and
every one of color fastness results were go between all right and
wonderful.
The present work is undertaken with a read to harness applied
science jointly of the foremost necessary frontier sciences for
development of printing natural materials mistreatment the
foremost eco-friendly dyes, i.e. natural colours. Curcuma
natural dye was studied to clarify the impact of nature of nano-
size color particles on size, shape, and particle distribution of
the natural dye with comparative studies of the K/S and over all
fastness properties of written samples on natural materials
(wool, silk and cotton). Results showed that the K/S values of
nano samples ar beyond original samples, no matter the
character of the material used and /or the concentration of the
coloring matter. Alum mordant incorporated with original
Curcuma are often omitted, and substituted by nano-curcuma
while not mordant. K/S values of the pre-mordanting
noninheritable the upper values than the cooccurring
mordanting no matter the material used, or dye particles size
used, or Curcuma concentrations on mistreatment phenol
mordant. Color fastness to rubbing, and perspiration properties
of nano dye is best than the initial.
Plan of Work
1.To apply the natural dye by printing method on protein fibre
2.To study the optimum process parameter of printing
Time (steaming)
Temperature (steaming)
Dye concentration
To characterised the protein fibre
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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )
Optical parameter-K/S, Lightness, Brightness, Lusture design or design equipments. Only fabric form of textile
Colour Fastness-Washing, Light, Rubbing material can be printed and does not require a coloring
Physical/Mechanical-Stiffness, Strength, Elongation/Stain, substance.
Crease recovery DIFFERENT METHODS OF PRINTING-

METHOD OF EXTRACTION OF NATURAL DYE: 1. Non-Mechanical Method

a) Block Printing
As natural dye-bearing materials contain solely a little share of b) Table-screen Printing
coloring matter or dye beside variety of different plant and
animal constituents like water-insoluble fibers, carbohydrates, 2. Mechanical Method
protein, chlorophyl, and tannins, among others, extraction is a a) Roller Printing
necessary step not just for getting ready pure natural dyes b) Flat-bed Screen printing
however is additionally needed to be meted out by users of c) Rotary Screen Printing
crude dye-bearing materials. The character associated solubility d) Transfer Printing
characteristics of the coloring materials got to be discovered
before using an extraction method. the various ways for DIFFERENT STYLES OF PRINTING-
extraction of coloring materials are:
1) Direct
Aqueous extraction technique 2) Discharge-
Alkali or acid extraction technique a) White
Microwave and inaudible power-assisted extraction b) Colored
technique 3) Resist-
Fermentation technique a) White
Enzymatic extraction technique b) Colored
Solvent extraction technique 4) Burn-out-
Super crucial fluid extraction technique a) Localised (Brasso)
• Print is beyond question one amongst the foremost b) Overall (Carbonised)
varied, inventive and innovative industries within the world.
whereas the trade is split into a full host of various markets, a
number of these ar split into any, separate areas, so PRINTING OF TEXTILES WITH NATURAL DYE:
demonstrating the quantity of labor that it offered.
• Textile printing is one amongst the procedure of textile Printing with natural dyes contributes to be additional worth of
decoration. Textile printing needs the proper coordination textiles and conjointly responses to the increasing demand of
between the printing machinery support and also the human compatibility with the atmosphere. written textiles are materials
ability for manufacturing the simplest of the results. Textile on that a pattern is created succeeding the weaving of fabric by
printing uses varied printing techniques of that screen printing the applying of dye or pigment to the surface of the material
is most predominant. thus on acquire varied styles. A written material may be created
by a large kind of ways like stencil printing, block printing,
PRINTING OF TEXTILE FIBERS screen printing, roller printing etc. textile printing has evolved
itself over the course of last century terribly} very systematic
Printing is defined as the coloration of only one side of the and scientific method. Among all the printing techniques,
textile material using dyes or pigments. It requires specific screen printing and block printing are the foremost vital

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )
industrially and commercially used. Thickeners employed in using natural dye.
textile printing are high mass compounds giving viscose paste MATERIAL USED FOR THIS EXPERIMENT :
in water. These impact viscousness and physical property to the 1. TEXTILE RAW MATERIAL – SILK FABRIC
printing paste so it may be applied to material surface while not SPECIFICATION : TABBY SILK (ORIGIN – CHINA)
spreading and capable of maintaining the look outlines even
PARAMETER SILK
beneath air mass. S FABRIC

EPI
Natural thickening agents are created from vegetable raw
materials. For textile printing, the material used should be
soluble in water. Guar gum, Gum Arabic, Gum tragancanth, PPI
cereals, Gum Karaya, bean gum, Alginates are natural
thickening agent. the most perform of material is to carry the GSM
dye particles within the desired place on the material till the
transfer of dye into the material and its fixation 3. CHEMICALS USED : i. KBI
ii. Acetic acid
RESEARCH GAP:
4. NATURAL DYES USED: i. Henna
ii. Tea

• Printing processes using various natural dyes on iii. Coffee

natural fibres have been carried out earlier. Printing processes
accompanied by the use of different mordants such as- alum, 5. NATURAL GUM USED: Guar Gum
CuSO4, FeSO4 has already been done.
• Process parameters already taken into study were- Dye
concentration, mordant type & concentration, type of fixation, PREPARATION: the gum is present in powdered form.

nature of thickening agent. • 500 ml of acetic acid is added to 30 litre of normal

• Properties studied- various fastness properties, CIE water. The mixture is then drilled.
Lab value. • 1 kg of the powdered gum is added to the drilled
mixture.

But, a gap remained- No previous works gave any relevant • The entire mixture is kept over night.
details about the optimum process parameters (steaming time,
steaming temperature) at which printing should be carried out

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )

SAMPLE PLAN
Process Parameter
S.L Combination Sample Total no of
NO Code Steaming temp Steaming time sample
(degree C) (Minute)
10
20
102
30
40
10
1 HENNA S1 20 12
104
30
40
10
20
106
30
40
10
20
102
30
40
10
2 COFFEE S2 20 12
104
30
40
10
20
106
30
40
10
20
102
30
40
10
3 TE S3 20 12
104
A 30
40
10
20
106
30
40
10
4 HENNA S4 102 12
20

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )
+ 30
COFFEE 40
10
20
30
40
10
20
30
40
10
20
30
40
10
20
30
40
10
20
30
40

TOTAL 60
SAMPLE=

MACHINES USED :
PRINTING PROCEDURE:
i. Steaming machine
ii. Drying machine i. Fabric Preparation: firstly the fabric is made ready for
iii. washing fastness test printing. The fabric undergoes various preparatory processes-
desizing, scouring, bleaching, before the printing procedure.

PROCESS PARAMETER: ii. Print paste preparation: five different sets of printing

• Dye conc. & conc. Of the others recipe are kept fixed paste is being prepared for 5 different combinations of printing-

for each of the combinations mentioned earlier. a) Printing using “HENNA” (Sa)- Recipe & Conditions:

• pH is kept fixed throughout. Henna= 10gm

• Steaming temp. (°C)– it is varied as : 102, 104 & 106 KBI= 10gm

• Steaming time (min) – it is varied as : 10, 20, 30 & 40 Gum= 80gm

pH= 4

NOTE : A particular combination is selected and for a particular b) Printing using “COFFEE” (Sb)- Recipe &Conditions:

steaming temperature, the Steaming time is varied as mentioned Coffee= 10gm

above. Again for another steaming temperature, the steaming KBI= 10gm

time is again varied for the sample of same combination. Gum= 80gm

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )
pH= 4
c) Printing using “TEA” (Sc)- Recipe &Conditions: • Now the printed silk fabric is carried out for steaming
Tea= 20gm under the varied process parameters.
KBI= 10gm • For steaming temperature 102 degree C, the printed
Gum= 70gm sample of a particular combination is steamed for 10 min, 20
pH= 4 min, 30 min, & 40 min consecutively. Again for 104 degree C
d) Printing using “HENNA+COFFEE” (Sd)- Recipe the printed sample of the same combination is steamed 4 times
&Conditions:
Henna= 10gm
Coffee= 10gm for the 4 respective times- 10, 20, 30 & 40 min. For 106 degree
KBI= 10gm C , the same sample of the same combination is steamed 4 times
Gum= 70gm for the 4 steaming times.
pH= 4 • The same process is repeated for the rest 4
combinations of sample

e) Printing using “HENNA+TEA” (Se)- Recipe v. Washing & Drying:

&Conditions:
Henna= 10gm • A total of 60 samples are received after the completion
Tea= 10gm of steaming, each resembling a unique process parameters.
KBI= 10gm • Each of these 60 samples are washed with 1 gpl soap
Gum= 70gm (here, non-ionic soap) for 5- 7 min at 50 degree C.
pH= 4 • After washing of those 60 samples, they are being
dried using a drying machine. The temperature of the machine
iii. Printing: is at 90 degree C.

• The Silk fabric to be printed is properly placed on the

Wax table. Table: The K/S value of silk fabric at different time &
• It is then finely attached to the Wax table by temperature are as follows:
smoothly pressing it with a light weight wooden block.
• The screen of desired design is then set against the
stopper & placed over the fabric already been fixed. It is to be
done with care, so that the design of the screen correctly
overlaps on the silk fabric.
• Printing paste that has been prepared prior to the
printing procedure is now poured at the bottom end of the
wooden screen.
• Now with the help of a squeeze the paste is firstly
rubbed against its hairy surface & then with a bit pressure it is
moved along the full length of the fabric under the screen.
• Carefully, the screen is now withdrawn & the printed
fabric is left for drying.
iv. Steaming:

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )

TABLE- 1
Temp- 102 degree
C
Tim K/S
Sl No value
e
(min Henna(S Coffee(S Tea(Sc Henna- Henna-
) a) b) ) Coffee(Sd) Tea(Se)
1 10 1.32 1.74 2.89 1.7 0.85
2 20 1.45 1 2.96 2.11 2.06
3 30 1.9 2.74 3.79 3 3.19
4 40 2.83 4.77 5.48 6.33 4.97
VALUE
K/S

DISCUSSIONS:
• For the sample (Sa), the k/s value slightly with time.
• For the sample (Sb), the k/s value firstly decreases for
time- 20 min, but then gradually increases with time.
• For the sample (Sc), the k/s value gradually increases
with time.
• For the sample (Sd), the k/s value also increases with
time, but it has the maximum k/s value of all at time- 40 min.
• For the sample (Se), the k/s value increases directly
with time.

TABLE- 2
Temp- 104 degree
C
Tim K/S
Sl No value
e
(min Henna(S Coffee(Sb Tea(Sc Henna- Henna-
) a) ) ) Coffee(Sd) Tea(Se)
1 10 2.33 1.26 3.31 4.09 3.75
2 20 3.77 4.95 4.46 7.97 5.75

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )

3 30 4.06 4.65 5.98 6.55 7.99

4 40 5.89 6.02 6.97 8.75 7.24

DSCUSSIONS: directly with time.

• For the sample (Sd), the k/s value
• For the sample (Sa), the k/s value increases
increases, slightly decreases at time- 30
gradually with time.
min, butagain increases and it has the
• For the sample (Sb), the k/s value maximum k/s value of all at time- 40 min.
increases, slightly decreases at time- 30
• For the sample (Se), the k/s value increases,
min, butagain increases at time- 40 min.
but for time – 40 min it decreases.
• For the sample (Sc), the k/s value increases

TABLE- 3
Temp- 106 degree
C
K/S
Sl No Tim value
e
(min Henna(S Coffee(S Tea(Sc Henna- Henna-
) a) b) ) Coffee(Sd) Tea(Se)
1 10 1.93 2.75 4.38 3.62 3.35
2 20 5.38 3.9 4.56 5.12 4.69
3 30 4.64 4.83 4.62 7.91 5.65
4 40 4.73 6.39 5.79 10.39 7.12

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )

DISCUSSIONS: min.
For the sample (Se), the k/s value increases directly with time
• For the sample (Sa), the k/s value firstly increases and
then decreases.
• For the sample (Sb), the k/s value increases almost CONCLUSION:
directly with time.
• For the sample (Sc), the k/s value the change is slight.
The k/s value is maximum for the sample combination
Henna-Coffee (Sd) at temperature106 degree C at time- 40
• For the sample (Sd), the k/s value increases sharply min.
and it has the maximum k/s valueof all at time- 40

Table: The value of dry rubbing fastness are as follows:

Time: 40
min
Dry Rub Fastness
Sl No Temp.(degree Rating
C) Henna(S Coffee(S Tea(Sc Henna- Henna-
a) b) ) Coffee(Sd) Tea(Se)
1 102 4.5 5 4.5 4.5 4.5
2 104 4.5 5 4.5 4.5 4.5
3 106 4.5 5 4.5 4.5 4.5

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )

DISCUSSIONS:

• The rub fastness rating is maximum (5) for the sample

combination of Coffee (Sb) at 102, 104 & 106 degree C.

Time: 40
min
Wet Rub Fastness
Temp.(degr Rating
Sl No
ee C) Henna
Henna(S Coffee(S Tea(Sc Henna- -
a) b) ) Coffee(Sd) Tea(S
e)
1 102 4 4 3 4 3.5
2 104 4 4.5 3 4.5 4
3 106 4 4.5 3 4.5 4

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )

maximum for the sample combinations-Sb & Sd.

DISCUSSIONS: They have a rating of 4.5 out of 5.
•
•
For 106 degree C, the rub fastness rating is
For 102 degree C, the rub fastness rating is
maximum for the sample combinations-Sb & Sd.
maximum for the sample combinations-Sa, Sb &
They have a rating of 4.5 out of 5.
Sd. They have a rating of 4 out of 5.
• For 104 degree C, the rub fastness rating is

Table: The value of washing fastness of main (unprinted) silk sample are as follows:

DISCUSSIONS:
• For 102 degree C, the wash fastness rating is
maximum for the sample- Sc.
• For 104 degree C, the wash fastness rating is
maximum for the sample- Sd.
• For 106 degree C, the wash fastness rating is
maximum for the samples- Sa, Sd & Se.

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Printing of silk fabric using natural dye (Tea , Coffee and Heena )
DISCUSSIONS:
• For 102 degree C, the wash fastness rating is maximum
for the samples- Sb, Sc & Sd.
• For 104 degree C, the wash fastness rating is maximum
for the sample- Sc.
• For 106 degree C, the wash fastness rating is maximum
for the sample- Se.
CONCLUSIONS:
we have vividly found out the optimum process parameters
of printing silk fabric with henna, coffee & tea and with their
combinations.
Of all the four steaming times, 40 min is kept fixed, since the
K/S value of all the samples at the different temperatures are
maximum at steaming time- 40 min.
The rub fastness (dry) rating is maximum (5) for
sample prepared using Coffee (Sb) for all the 3 steaming
temperatures.
The rub fastness (wet) rating is maximum (4.5) for the
sample prepared using Coffee (Sb) & Henna-Coffee (Sd), both
for steaming temperatures- 104 & 106 degree C.
At steaming temperature 106 degree C, the wash
fastness rating (unprinted silk) is maximum for 3 samples
47
prepared using Henna (Sa), Henna-Coffee (Sd) & Henna-Tea
(Se).
At steaming temperature 106 degree C, the wash fastness
rating (printed silk) is maximum for the sample prepared using
Tea (Sc).
Therefore, the most optimum steaming time found to be 40
min.
Since, the K/S value slightly increases with the steaming
temperature, therefore 104 degree C & 106 degree C is found to
be optimum.
Reference
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3.Atkins P., Paula J., Elements of Physical Chemistry,
Oxford University, Press Fourth Edition ISBN :
01992718362005
4.Gui Zhen Ke, Wei-lin Xu, Wei-dong Yo, Indian Journal
of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol 33, June 2008, pp. 185-
188.
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R, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol 35, June
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