THIRD QUARTER 2023 I VOLUME 17

POTO'S
ACRO
JUNGLE

OLY'S REEF
UNDERSTANDING PAR
STRATEGIC FEEDING
FEATURES
6 ANNOUNCEMENTS
VICTORY REEF
Wes Corbyn, owner of Intrinsic Reef Design
in Austin, TX, has kept aquariums since
’91 and worked in the aquarium industry since ’99. Wes
is lucky enough to work on the 600-gallon reef of his
dreams, but it hasn’t always been smooth sailing.
12
UNDERSTANDING PAR FOR
IMPROVED CORAL COLOR
Joseph Ghosheh is the owner of Carolina
Coral Heads, a business specialized in aquaculturing rare
corals. Understanding PAR in context is one of the first
steps in achieving great coral color. An expert introduces
the all-important concept here.
16 ON THE COVER
POTO'S ACRO JUNGLE
Kenny Lin is a former software
engineer and the founder & CEO of
Pieces of the Ocean. This sparkling
display is the result of overcoming
challenges and remaining flexible
enough to change plans when
required.
Cover image by author.
24
FEEDING YOUR FISH:
A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
Keith Moyle is a 47-year veteran reefer and
the owner of Kahuna Reef Motivation. Feeding your fish the
correct foods in the right way is essential for their health.
Could you be providing a better diet for your fish? This deep
dive into feeding will help you decide.
34
OLY’S REEF:
DIVERSITY ON DISPLAY
Olivier Schaad is a reefer living in Zurich,
Switzerland, with 28 years of experience in the hobby. An
emphasis on high-quality equipment, supplements, and
food are hallmarks of this glorious Swiss display.
42
THE GOLDEN ANGELFISH
(Centropyge aurantia)
Art Parola is a decades-long hobbyist who
currently works on policy and legislative issues related to
pets and wildlife. The Golden Angelfish is one of the most
exquisite pygmy angelfishes. Check out this review of the
species and what it might take to keep one in your tank.
46
.25 - GALLON REEF
Brendan Ross, the creator of
ReallySmallReefs.com, has been around
the hobby his entire life and is now pushing the limits of
how small a reef can be. The challenge of balancing a
microhabitat isn’t for everyone, but here you can see the
journey of creating a .25-gallon reef.
50 PRODUCT REVIEW: IceCap ATO EZ
4 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
THIRD QUARTER 2023 | Volume 17
© 2023 Reef Hobbyist Magazine. All rights reserved.
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 VICTORY REEF
I
grew up in the ’90s reading TFH and FAMA magazines. The
glossy pictures of successful aquariums and exotic locales were
my connection to a hobby that few people in my small town were
interested in. Articles written by the pioneers of reefkeeping, like
Julian Sprung and Charles Delbeek, were major influences in my
6 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
WES CORBYN
Images by Amanda Kay Myers
life. Books like Mike Paletta’s Ultimate Marine Aquariums took the
guesswork out of what was required for a successful tank. These
publications inspired my lifelong passion, and in 2008, I started
an aquarium service company. I was helped along by the people
who took the time to share, and now I want to contribute back
 Rear view

to the hobby. I am ecstatic to share this tank with the community. This was a
collaborative effort with my client, and without his vision, I would not be able to
work on the tank of my dreams.

Six years ago, I was hired to manage this 600-gallon system full of problems.
As I corrected the equipment issues and corals started growing, we were
faced with a new problem: Green Star Polyps and blue Palythoa were taking
over and choking out other corals. One day, I decided they had to go and
manually scrubbed and removed what I could. When I got home that night,
I had flu-like symptoms. The next morning, my hand was twice its normal
size and I landed in urgent care. As the doctor inquired about my profession,
I was anxious that I was having a reaction to the aquariums that were my
livelihood. In 10 years of full-time aquarium service, I had never experienced
this. We concluded that I had been poisoned by palytoxin while removing the
Palythoa. The owner and I decided the Green Star Polyps and palys had to
be completely removed. We assembled a crew with respirators, goggles, and
gloves and spent a week breaking down the tank, carefully removing corals
with a band saw, and starting over. New rock and sand were added, and we
were very careful not to reintroduce a single polyp of the offending corals.

DISPLAY
This acrylic tank measures 54" long, 54" wide, and 48" tall. Essentially, it is
a big cube viewable from four sides. The aquascape is made of Real Reef
Rock, drilled and mounted on a PVC skeleton. After the rockwork was set up,
my client stated that he wanted every rock covered with corals. I was a little
daunted by this challenge. There is a central rock pyramid stacked around the
overflow and return, and there are two vertical columns that, in hindsight, were
positioned too close to the viewing panes. As the corals grew, I was unable
to get magnet cleaners into the corners without damaging corals. One side
of the aquarium is viewable from the porch and lets natural sunlight in. This is
helpful in lighting the vertical structure from an angle and keeps corals alive
that would normally be shaded from above.

SETBACKS
Four years ago, we reset this system and added fast-growing corals to fill the
vast empty space. Corals like Pavona, Montipora capricornis, Anthelia, and
mushrooms spread rapidly. They quickly became unmanageable at the bottom
of this 4-foot-deep tank. When physical removal wasn’t practical, we resorted

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 7

 Lightning Maroon Clownfish

Achilles Tang

to alternative means, like “boxing in” corals with stinging Euphyllia

and using plating corals to shade fast growers.

Changes in a system this large can quickly get out of hand, and
for us, that came in the form of coral disease. Unfortunately, the
bacteria that cause STN and RTN (slow/rapid tissue necrosis) were
introduced with some of the new corals. Once pathogenic bacteria
are active on stressed corals, they are more likely to spread to
healthy corals. This can be controlled by fragging and dipping,
but with large colonies in a deep tank, it was nearly impossible. I
reached out to a company that developed a paste to treat SCTLD
(stony coral tissue loss disease) in the wild. We were slowly losing
large colonies, and I pleaded with them to let me test the paste
in a closed system. The treatment was very effective at halting
the STN and decreased its recurrence. With the underlying issue
under control, it bought us time for the corals to recover.

PARAMETERS
• Temperature: 76–78° F
• Specific Gravity: 1.026
• pH: 8.1–8.35
• Nitrate: 5–10 ppm
• Phosphate: 0.04–0.08 ppm
• Alkalinity: 7.5 dKH
• Calcium: 480 ppm
• Magnesium: 1,300 ppm

8 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
 • Polyp Lab Reef Roids and Polyp
Booster (weekly)
• Neptune Apex system with two DOS
modules

Alkalinity and pH management

in this system has been quite a
challenge. One observation I’ve made
managing dozens of systems is that
the relationship between alkalinity
and pH varies from tank to tank. For
this system, I dose 2-part and run a
kalkwasser reactor fed by a Neptune
DOS doser. I used kalkwasser over
20 years ago with Berlin systems but
transitioned to calcium reactors, as
many hobbyists did. We tried two
different calcium reactors on this
system, along with CO2 scrubbers,
and alkalinity and calcium would stay
Grafted Montipora
in range, but pH was suppressed.
Coral growth and color were lackluster.
Finally, with 2-part and kalkwasser,
DOSING I was able to keep the pH range
• 714 mL of liquid soda ash (daily) between 8.35 during the day and
• 155 mL of Red Sea Foundation A (calcium and strontium) (daily) 8.15 at night. Everything came to life.
• 71 mL of Red Sea Reef Energy AB+ (daily) Acropora color and polyp extension
• Red Sea Trace-Colors A, B, C, and D (weekly, according to calcium consumption) improved, and delicate specimens
• Pax Bellum Nitrogen+Molybdenum and Iron+Manganese (3 times per week) thrived.

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 9

LIGHTING
• (8) EcoTech Radion XR30 Pro
• (2) Kessil A500X
• (2) Kessil AP700
• (3) Kessil A160 (for dark corners)

FILTRATION
Protein Skimmer: Deltec 6000i
Chaeto Reactor: Pax Bellum A.R.I.D. C36
UV Sterilizer: Aqua UV, 120 watts
Return Pump: (2) EcoTech Vectra L2
Macroalgae: Caulerpa racemosa in refugium
Media: AquaNeat bio sponge
Other: live rock

Stylophora sp.

WATER MOVEMENT
• (4) EcoTech MP60
• (2) Maxspect Gyre 280
• (3) Neptune WAV

We control everything we can in our reefs,

but sometimes we feel helpless in the face of
uncontrollable events. The winter storm of 2021
is a good example. Austin was not equipped for
8 inches of snow, and many lost power for over
a week. The roads were not passable for 6 days,
and I could only fret and hope that our backup
systems functioned as planned. Some did,
some didn’t, and I learned from that. Thankfully,
this aquarium is connected to an automatic
generator, and we had thoroughly tested it and
prepared for such an event. All of the animals
survived for 6 days without anyone able to get
to them. Preparing our closed systems for these
eventualities is important. Water will leak, power
will go out, and equipment will fail. The Neptune
Apex monitoring system has saved this tank more
times than I can count. Redundancy and backup
plans are integral to long-term success.

In the near future, the office that houses this

aquarium will undergo a major renovation. The
idea of breaking this system down, saving as
much coral as possible, and starting over gives
me anxiety, but it is also exciting to start from
scratch and engineer solutions to problems that
have arisen over time with the current system. I
am looking forward to the next iteration of this
magnificent system and sharing the results with
the community. R

10 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

Understanding PAR for
Improved Coral Color
A
s a local aquarium store owner, one topic my customers ask
about frequently is PAR, which stands for photosynthetically
active radiation. Appropriate PAR levels are important for
maintaining coral health and growth. Understanding what PAR is
and what factors contribute to appropriate PAR in a reef aquarium
are crucial for success if you want to have colorful, thriving corals.
UNDERSTANDING PAR
PAR refers to the total energy of light between 400 and 700
nanometer wavelengths. These are the main light frequencies that
plants and the symbiotic algae within corals use for photosynthesis.
However, the PAR number alone gives no information about the
distribution of energy within that spectral range, which is far more
important for coral color. You can have two very different-looking
lights, e.g., a bluish light and a reddish light, that have equivalent
PAR output but very different spectral frequency distributions. In
modern LED fixtures, these spectral outputs are influenced mainly
by diode choice, diode mix, and software customization.
CUSTOMIZING LIGHTING FOR YOUR AQUARIUM
The ideal PAR numbers for your aquarium may differ significantly
from the displays in my store, as there are numerous factors that
influence each captive reef environment. As an example, we run
different light schedules on each of the tanks in our store. It is
12 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
Image by Don McCulley
JOSEPH GHOSHEH
essential to customize your lighting based on the specific needs of
the corals you are keeping.
The best way to accurately measure the PAR levels in your aquarium
is with a PAR meter. This device can help you determine the actual
PAR values at different points in your tank, allowing you to make
informed decisions when adjusting your lighting or identifying ideal
locations for your corals.
I always recommend starting with lower light levels and gradually
increasing them, observing your corals for feedback. If your corals
appear on the darker side, that may simply indicate insufficient light,
though it could also be the result of excessive nutrients relative to
the light level. Conversely, if your corals begin to appear too light
or even bleached, they may be receiving too much light or too few
nutrients relative to the light level. In my experience, corals seem to
tolerate insufficient light better than they do excessive light. The key
is to make adjustments slowly to find the optimal lighting conditions
for your aquarium. Remember, nothing good happens fast in this
hobby!
CONSIDERATIONS FOR DIFFERENT CORAL TYPES
Different corals have different PAR requirements. This should come
as no surprise since corals hail from various depths and habitats.
Small-polyp stony (SPS) corals typically require higher PAR values
than large-polyp stony (LPS) corals. But keep in mind that you
should research each of your specific corals since there are deep-
water Acropora that prefer lower PAR and shallow-water LPS that
prefer higher PAR. In a mixed-reef aquarium with many types of
corals, I recommend creating areas to mount your corals at varying
depths within your aquascape so you can place corals lower or
higher to accommodate their different lighting needs. Use a PAR
meter to measure each area of the aquascape where you plan to
place your corals and strategically position them where they will
receive the optimal level of light.
ADJUSTING LIGHT SETTINGS OVER TIME
Although it is crucial not to change light settings too frequently,
some adjustments may be necessary as your aquarium evolves.
Certainly, as home reefs grow in and there is more coral shading,
changes may be required. However, these changes should be made
Appropriate PAR levels help corals
reach their maximum color potential.
Reef Hobbyist Magazine 13
 RR Red Octopus Icarus

gradually and coupled with close observation of the corals. Any changes
you make to your lighting will take some time to have a noticeable effect,
so patience is key here.

BALANCING LIGHT SPREAD AND PAR

The distance between your lighting fixture and the water’s surface, as well
as the depth of the corals below the water line, significantly impact PAR
values at the coral’s surface.

Many of the LED fixtures available in the hobby either have built-in diffusers
RR Rainbow Blossom
or offer them as an accessory. Diffusers improve light distribution and

14 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
overall visual aesthetics by evenly spreading the emitted light across
the aquarium, eliminating the spotlight effect that many aquarists dislike.

NUTRIENTS AND CORAL COLORATION

Of all the factors that affect coral color, I consider nutrients to be the
most important. I believe that maintaining detectable levels of nutrients,
such as phosphate and nitrate, can help corals tolerate higher PAR
without getting burned. We typically target 0.08 ppm for phosphate and
10–15 ppm for nitrate. I’m not recommending this as an ideal approach
for all; I’m simply sharing what has worked for us. Of course, there are
many other factors influencing coral color, including proper water flow,
dissolved oxygen levels, and pH and alkalinity stability, to name a few. If
any of these other parameters are substantially outside of their optimal
ranges, then the best light in the world won’t get you great color.

CONCLUSION
This is only an introduction to PAR and the concepts related to PAR
in a home reef. When it comes to lighting in a reef aquarium, there
are other fundamental concepts that need to be well researched and
understood, such as spectral output and light intensity versus duration.
Each of these topics is complex enough to deserve its own article.

There are no magic numbers or settings that will work for every system.
Focus on observing your specific corals and customize your lighting
accordingly, rather than trying to replicate the PAR values of others.
With patience, careful observation, and a PAR meter, you can begin to
create the ideal lighting environment for your corals to maintain optimal SBB Heisenberg
health and reach their full color potential. R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 15

POTO's Acro Jungle
G
rowing up, I was always fascinated by nature and wildlife,
and I have kept nearly every pet you can name. So it was
only a matter of time before I was bitten by the reefing
bug. I remember the beginning like it was yesterday. A friend
was giving away a 90-gallon tank. It wasn’t drilled, so I set up a
U-tube-style overflow with a CD case flipped upside down as the
overflow box. I then signed up with every reefing forum I could find.
Fifteen years later, I have turned my hobby into a business, a coral
shop on Staten Island.
EARLY LESSONS
There is a saying: “If you don’t fail, you’re not even trying.” My early
reefing journey was marked by what can best be described as
16 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
KENNY LIN
trials and tribulations. This hobby calls upon us to learn aspects of
marine biology and practice various disciplines, including plumbing,
carpentry, electrical work, and water-chemistry management. Failure
is common and necessary. If I could go back, I would have tested my
water more frequently and started with better equipment. Not testing
your water is like driving a car blindfolded; you’re definitely going
somewhere, but eventually you’ll crash. And as a beginner, you need
the most reliable equipment you can get to help navigate the steep
learning curve that comes with being a new reefer. Finally, know
that there is no one right way to achieve success. Every successful
reef tank is unique and has achieved success on its own terms and
timeline. Follow experienced reefers you trust and try to learn from
their husbandry practices.
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
This system is a 211-gallon peninsula custom made by Miracles Aquariums. It
measures 68" long, 30" wide, and 24" tall. The tank sits on a custom aluminum
stand that is 46" tall. The tall stand elevates the tank to the eye level of an
average-height person. An added benefit of a tall stand is that you get more
room to work with under the tank. Despite the fact that it’s the store’s most visible
display, I designed it to be as simple as possible. With different staff conducting
maintenance, the less complex it is, the less likely someone unfamiliar with its
operation and equipment will make a mistake.

EQUIPMENT
Lighting: (3) ATI Straton LED
Return Pump: EcoTech Vectra L2
Skimmer: Reef Octopus Regal 200INT 8", VarioS pump
Water Movement: (2) EcoTech MP40, (3) Maxspect Gyre 350
Calcium Reactor: Reef Octopus CR200 8" DC
Doser: Kamoer FX-STP, BRS Top Off Doser
Controller: Neptune Apex

Recently, we started to supplement kalkwasser in addition to running the calcium

reactor. This is accomplished with a BRS Top Off Doser (50 mL/min) on a Neptune
Apex controller scheduled to dose every hour. The run time depends on alkalinity
consumption. Currently, it runs for 45 seconds every hour but will likely increase
soon. Our alkalinity hovers at 7 dKH but can vary greatly. Since the beginning, this
tank has run with high nutrient levels. At its highest, phosphate once registered
0.9 ppm, but currently, the sweet spot is around 0.08 ppm. Our husbandry
routine hasn’t changed in 5 years, since the beginning. We test alkalinity daily
and phosphate twice a week. Twenty percent water changes are performed with
Instant Ocean salt weekly. Elevated phosphate and nitrate levels are not always
detrimental. In my opinion, consistency outweighs all.

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 17

 POTO Afterburner
Yellow Coris Wrasse
FILTRATION
Mechanical filtration is provided by the skimmer, as filter socks are
not employed. The main biological filtration is handled by the live
rock and refugium. I do wish I had more space for a larger refugium
since it is not big enough for a display of this size. Once in a while,
I find the need to dose a few drops of lanthanum chloride when
phosphate trends upward. As the corals grow out, they have become
quite efficient at sequestering nutrients since zooxanthellae absorb
phosphate and nitrate for photosynthesis. We once removed a large
acro colony and the phosphate level went up almost immediately.
LIVESTOCK
From day one, this tank was designed for Acropora. As time
progressed, I realized I needed to diversify the colors a bit and
cater the tank’s look and feel to the novice hobbyist. Slowly, I added
some LPS (large-polyp stony) corals on the bottom and dedicated
an island to Bubble-tip Anemones.
FISH
• Male Swallowtail Angelfish (Genicanthus melanospilus)
• Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)
18 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
POTO Trifecta
Male Swallowtail Angelfish
• Magnificent Foxface (Siganus magnificus)
• Blue Hippo Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus)
• Yellow Coris Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus)
• Starcki Damsel (Chrysiptera starcki)
• (2) Madagascar Wideband Clownfish (Amphiprion latifasciatus)
• (2) Black Leopard Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris)
• Black Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon negrosensis)
• Ornate Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon ornatus)
• Blue Star Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon bipartitus)
• Six-line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)
• Target Mandarin (Synchiropus picturatus)
• Ruby Red Dragonet (Synchiropus sycorax)
• Blue-eyed Cardinal (Zoramia leptacantha)
• Diamond Sand-sifting Goby (Valenciennea puellaris)
• Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto)
• Wheeler's Shrimp Goby (Amblyeleotris wheeleri) w/ pistol shrimp
There are a few quirks with this system that are worth mentioning.
Our water mixing station with RO (reverse-osmosis) water storage is
in the back of the store, and the tank is in the front. There is an auto
top-off line running the length of the store to provide fresh, gravity-fed
RO top-off water to the tank through a ½" PVC pipe, only reduced
20 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
POTO Tangerine Dream Lobo to ¼" tubing right at the tank. The
refugium is a repurposed auto top-
off container. The system used to
run a Vertex Alpha 250 skimmer, but
it was too powerful and we noticed
the corals suffering color loss and
a lack of polyp extension. We
downsized to a Reef Octopus Regal
200INT and currently only run the
skimmer 12 hours a day. There is a
2" deep detritus bed in the bottom
of the sump that is never disturbed;
the same goes for all the other SPS
(small-polyp stony) coral systems I
maintain in the store. I consider this
detritus a haven for the bacteria
and microfauna that contribute to
the corals' colors and the stability
of the system.

During the early days of the system

when it was struggling to cycle after
starting with only dry rock, I dosed
every possible bacterial product on
the market to no avail. But when
I introduced live rock from other
established and successful SPS
tanks, the display turned around in

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 21

 Madagascar Wideband Clownfish in Rose Anemone
a month. Acros started to color up and show growth, and polyp
extension improved.
I plumbed this tank with an adjustable-flow manifold, but as time went
on, I didn’t end up using it at all. A system will never be exactly the way
22 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
it was planned; it will be an ever-changing and dynamic environment,
and your reefing skills will be honed through constant trial and error,
learning, and adaptation. With patience and perseverance, no reefing
obstacle is too big to overcome, and despite some setbacks, I think
this tank turned out pretty nice. R
 FEEDING YOUR FISH:
A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
INTRODUCTION
Most hobbyists spend an abundance of time researching and
planning their reef aquariums. Countless hours can easily be
spent gathering information on topics like filtration, water
movement, nutrient control, lighting, and livestock selection.
However, this depth of research often doesn’t extend to a subject
that is equally if not more important to successfully maintaining a
marine aquarium: the feeding needs of the fish. While this sounds
obvious, there are many considerations surrounding appropriate
feeding, and the vast array of available foods on the market can
make these decisions feel overwhelming. In this article, I will
explore the options available to provide a suitably healthy and
varied diet for your fish.
24 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
KEITH MOYLE
Before we dive into the specifics of which foods to feed to what fish,
it’s important to have a basic understanding of the general nutritional
needs of marine fish. These nutritional components are arranged
into the same five groups as they are for humans: proteins, fats,
vitamins, minerals, and carbohydrates.
PROTEINS
The majority of nutrients in most commercial foods on the market
come from proteins, which make up 40 to 60 percent of most
products geared toward carnivores and omnivores. High-protein
ingredients such as fish and shrimp meal provide a reliable supply
of the essential amino acids required by fish to grow and thrive. If
adequate proteins are not present in their diets, fish growth rates
may decline.
 Some fish, like Copperband Butterflyfish, have
specific feeding requirements that make them
challenging to keep. | Image by Romain Guy

FATS
Fats not only enhance the taste appeal of fish food but also offer a highly
digestible energy source and essential fatty acids that contribute to overall
health. Fish oils, rich in unsaturated fatty acids, are frequently utilized as a fat
source in commercial fish food. However, antioxidant preservatives are needed
to prevent rapid fat spoilage. Additionally, fats in fish food are vital for providing
some vitamins needed by fish.

VITAMINS
When it comes to fish health, vitamins are arguably the most important of all
five groups, as a deficiency in any of the required vitamins can lead to health
issues, such as poor appetite, anorexia, or pop-eye. Vitamins can be classified
as either water-soluble (B and C) or fat-soluble (A, D, E, and K). Foods are
generally manufactured with elevated vitamin levels to account for the vitamins’
rapid degradation during production and prior to consumption. Vitamin C, an
antioxidant, is considered especially critical for maintaining optimal fish health.

MINERALS
Minerals play an important role in promoting healthy bones, teeth, and scales
in fish. Most marine fish foods contain abundant minerals, even though fish can
extract some (such as calcium and magnesium) from their saltwater environment.
The most important minerals for fish health are calcium and phosphorous,
followed by other essential minerals like iron, iodine, magnesium, sodium,
potassium, copper, and zinc.

CARBOHYDRATES
The inclusion of carbohydrates in fish diets is an interesting topic since there
is no scientific evidence that they are necessary. However, they do provide a
beneficial source of energy for fish. There is some evidence that carbohydrates
from the fiber found in corn and wheat (often used in fish food production) slow
down food utilization, leading to improved digestion and nutrient absorption.

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 25

FEEDING BEHAVIORS
Before exploring the variety of available fish foods, it’s essential
to understand the natural feeding behaviors of your fish. First and
foremost, determine whether the fish is herbivorous, omnivorous,
or carnivorous, as this information will guide the basic food types
it requires. Additionally, determine whether it grazes surfaces or
feeds from the water column to help select the most suitable forms
of food. Most marine fish can easily be provided with a varied
and staple diet. However, certain species such as Mandarins and
Moorish Idols present specific challenges and should only be
kept following careful research and provided you can meet their
specialized feeding requirements on a long-term basis.
MENU CHOICES
DRY FOODS
Dry foods are some of the best
ways to ensure that your fish
get all their necessary
nutrients. There are
many options
available,
28 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
including the ever-popular flakes, pellets, and even food made for
grazers.
Flake food is the most convenient and popular choice for good
reason. High-quality flakes ensure your fish’s dietary requirements
are met and serve as a good foundation for your feeding regimen.
Most brands offer a wide variety, including a basic daily diet,
specialized options for herbivores or carnivores, color-enhancing
foods, and foods with flavor and nutritional enhancers. While a mixed
diet is recommended, flakes are excellent as the main component.
Pellets, like flakes, offer a nutritionally complete diet and come in
a variety of options tailored to specific types of fish. Pellets are
available in various forms—soft, hard, floating, sinking, small, or
large—and can be used as an alternative main food or to provide
variety.
Pellets offer greater feeding control than
flake food, as it’s easier to monitor
consumption. They are also less
likely to disintegrate and
spread around
the tank,
A variety of dry foods
reducing the chances of overfeeding. This helps prevent uneaten food from
ending up in the rockwork or the overflow, making for a cleaner tank with lower
nutrient levels. Pellets can be target fed to most invertebrates and some corals,
ensuring they are fed deliberately rather than relying on passive feeding.

Nori, in sheet form, should be offered on a regular basis to supplement the diets
of all herbivores and omnivores, including tangs and angelfish. Feeding clips with
either suction cups or magnetic mounts can be used to hold the algae sheets
in place while the fish graze.

FROZEN FOODS Sheets of nori

Frozen foods provide a more natural food source for your fish and, like dry foods,
offer a wide range of options to suit all tastes. Explore the freezer at your local
aquarium shop and you’ll find Mysis and brine shrimp, krill, whole and chopped
mussels, fish and lobster eggs, lance fish, squid, and cockles, among others.
Some foods such as brine shrimp may be enriched with additives like spirulina
or garlic, providing additional choices for the aquarist. Frozen foods generally
come in preportioned blister packs, though larger, more cost-effective slabs
are sometimes available.

Frozen foods are often more readily accepted by finicky feeders and can be
useful for weaning such fish onto other food types. Soaking frozen food in flavor
enhancers prior to feeding can be a good way to encourage picky species to
feed in captivity. If you keep predators that require larger foods, consider feeding
frozen lance fish, silversides, mussels, squid, and cockles, since appropriate live
Easy Reefs Masstick
food alternatives are unlikely to be available. Some species such as triggers and can be stuck onto
puffers will benefit from eating shelled food, as breaking the shell to access the the glass for fish to
flesh helps keep their beaks from becoming overgrown. More delicate feeders graze. | Image by
Bruce Ciapessoni
such as Long-nosed and Copperband Butterflies will appreciate eating from

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 29

 Enhancers improve nutritional A magnetic clip from Two Little Fishies
value or flavor of foods. holds a sheet of nori in place.
an opened shell. At the opposite end of the spectrum, fish and
lobster eggs are great foods for pipefish, seahorses, Mandarins, and
smaller gobies if they can be weaned onto them as an alternative
to live foods.
For those who keep nano tanks with low feeding demands, look
for frozen food packs that contain a selection of four or more food
types. This allows a varied diet to be fed without needing to buy
multiple packs that may exceed their shelf life before they’re used up.
30 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
SUSPENSION FOODS
Another option is liquid suspension foods, which can be fed directly
to the tank. While they provide the same benefits as frozen food, they
are a more convenient option since defrosting is not required. Once
open, some brands do need to be refrigerated and have a relatively
short shelf life. Krill, brine, baby brine, Mysis, and copepods are all
available in this form from companies like Reef Nutrition and Nyos.
LIVE FOODS
A variety of live foods can serve as treats for your fish or, in some
cases, as an essential food for species that won’t accept frozen or
dry foods. You’ll typically find copepods, brine shrimp, and Mysis
available at your local aquarium shop. These are often used to entice
finicky feeders such as Mandarins, pipefish, and some butterflies to
eat until they can be weaned onto frozen foods or other alternatives.
Some freshwater options such as river shrimp can provide a similar
interim food source for larger species such as lionfish, puffers, and
groupers.
When keeping fish like Mandarins and Scooter Blennies, which eat
copious amounts of copepods daily, it’s important to maintain high
pod populations to avoid starvation and premature death. It’s not
advisable to introduce these fish to a reef less than 12 months old,
especially in reefs that are created with artificial rock lacking natural
pod populations. Build pod populations by adding them weekly,
allowing the population to become sustainable before introducing
such fish. Be prepared to replenish pod populations as needed.
Ideally, add pods to the aquarium after dark to minimize the chance
the fish will eat them before they find their way into the rockwork.
When using live foods, avoid introducing the shipping water and
rinse the live food in reverse-osmosis or tank water using a suitably
sized mesh sieve or fish net before feeding. Bear in mind that while
live foods may most closely replicate the natural diets of reef fish, it
may be difficult to provide them in sufficient quantities or diversity
to meet your fish’s nutritional needs long term. For this reason, try
to wean fish onto frozen, flake, or pellet foods as their staple diet
whenever possible.
 SUPPLEMENTS & ADDITIVES
Although most flake and pellet foods have beneficial ingredients
such as vitamins, oils, and fats added during the manufacturing
process, this is generally not the case with frozen foods. Other food
products, such as spirulina, can be found as supplements in some
frozen foods. Manufacturers often feed spirulina to various shrimp
before freezing to enhance their nutritional profile.

Enriching frozen foods prior to use is recommended, especially

if they serve as the fish’s primary diet. While I don’t recommend
frozen foods as a main diet, I acknowledge that some fish will never
accept alternatives. Liquid vitamin supplements can be added to
defrosted frozen food an hour before feeding to allow for the vitamins
to be absorbed. Typically, these supplements contain a range of
vitamins, such as A, D, and E, which enhance the nutritional value
of frozen foods and help support a healthy immune system. If the
fish’s diet is not supplemented by dry foods, I’d recommend vitamin
supplements at least once or twice weekly.

GARLIC
The use of garlic in the hobby is somewhat controversial, and there
are a few distinct beliefs as to what (if any) benefit it provides. Garlic
is typically available as a liquid supplement to be added to dry or
frozen foods, though some frozen foods such as brine shrimp may
already contain it. Garlic is generally added for two reasons: first,
to enhance the flavor of food and entice finicky feeders to eat; and
second, to boost the immune system of fish. Some even use it as
a treatment for ich.

While there is much anecdotal information, the scientific evidence

supporting the claims around garlic’s benefit is mostly focused
on the chemical allicin, which has demonstrated parasite-killing
properties. However, the same cannot be said for claims of garlic’s
ability to enhance the immune system in fish. These claims have
not been supported by scientific evidence. There is also concern
that long-term use can cause liver damage to fish.

FEEDING
Feeding your fish the correct foods in the right way is essential for
their health. Varying the food offered at each feeding is nutritionally
beneficial and also helps keep fish interested. In captivity, a single
daily feed is unlikely to be detrimental, but feeding in the morning
and evening more closely resembles natural feeding patterns. For
some species, such as anthias, multiple daily feeds are necessary.
Feed when the tank is lit and at least 30 minutes before lights off
to prevent food from being left uneaten as fish retreat for the night.
I would suggest providing a flake or pellet food for one meal and
frozen food for the other. Auto-feeders may be an option but can
only dispense dry foods, which aren’t always suitable for fussy
eaters. Avoid the temptation to drop frozen food directly into the
tank, and always defrost and rinse before feeding.

Feed sparingly, as uneaten food generates unwanted nutrients and

overfeeding increases fish waste. Not all fish are voracious feeders,
so ensure all are able to get their share. While you want food to
circulate throughout the tank to reach all the creatures that should
be fed, be conscious of the need to remove as much uneaten food

32 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
as possible. Turning off the return pump will keep uneaten
food in the display, which may be a good strategy to provide
for less aggressive feeders. If you choose to do this, keep in
mind that uneaten food is easier to remove from a filter sock
in the sump than from deep in the display. Many of the latest
wavemakers provide a timed feed function to stop or reduce
flow when feeding, which may be useful if you wish to avoid
spreading food all over the tank. When away on vacation (2 or
more days), use an auto-feeder or arrange for someone to feed
your fish. Providing them with prepared packets or containers
of food for each feeding can be helpful.

FINAL THOUGHTS
Today’s foods make it very easy to ensure the nutritional
needs of all your fish are met. However, it’s important not
to become complacent about feeding regimens and to offer
a diverse selection of flake, pellet, frozen, and live foods
whenever possible. In choosing the correct types to offer,
always consider a fish’s natural diet and foraging behavior.
While flake food is a good general choice, it may not be ideal
for some species.

A balanced and nutritional diet is essential for happy, healthy

fish, prolonging their lifespan in captivity. It will also help build
a strong immune system, enabling fish to fend off infections
or recover more quickly if they do become afflicted. By
understanding and catering to all your fish’s feeding and Mandarins are notoriously difficult to wean onto non-
dietary needs, you will be rewarded with the thriving, vibrant living foods, but captive-bred Mandarins are usually
acclimated to pellets. | Image by Thesupermat
community of fish that every aquarist strives for. R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 33

Oly’s Reef:
Diversity on Display
I
began my aquarium hobby when I was just 10 years old.
Some of my family members have asthma, so we couldn’t
keep any animals with hair or fur. My mother encouraged us
to develop a sense of responsibility for animals, which led her
to get a freshwater tank for the family. Each family member took
care of their own species of fish. Over time, we successfully
bred many freshwater species, eventually accumulating 10
tanks in the cellar.
I started my first reef tank at the age of 14, after reading every
available book on the subject (the internet wasn’t a source for
aquarium information yet). During my high school years, with
chemistry and biology as my major subjects of interest, I became
responsible for the school’s reef tank. I spent hours discussing
water parameters, light, flow, filtration, and more with biology and
chemistry teachers, the local aquarium store manager, and other
34 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
OLIVIER SCHAAD
successful reefkeepers. My knowledge continued to grow, and by
the age of 21, I was maintaining three mixed-reef tanks, one LPS
(large-polyp stony) coral tank, and a seahorse tank with live rock,
sponges, and macroalgae.
I took a 2-year break from the hobby at the age of 25 due to moving,
changing jobs, and traveling. However, I soon realized that I missed
the hobby I loved and the challenges reefkeeping presents. Traveling
was, and is, a major part of my life, so I searched for a reef system
that would allow me to be away for weeks at a time without needing
to explain complicated maintenance to a tank-sitter. After trying
various supplement systems, I found success with Fauna Marin
products. The guidance from their CEO, Claude Schuhmacher,
and their how-to-use manuals significantly improved my tank. I
continue to be satisfied with their products and recommendations
a decade later.
Naso Tang

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 35

 SYSTEM
The display measures 70" long, 24" wide,
and 20" tall, and is built from low-iron glass.
The sump contains a Skimz ZAR 127 zeolite
reactor, an Aqua Medic Multireactor L with
activated carbon, and a Royal Exclusiv
Bubble King Double Cone 200 skimmer with
an external Red Dragon 3 Speedy pump.

Lighting consists of a T5/LED hybrid fixture

with eight 80-watt T5 bulbs and four 75-watt
LED fixtures. The lighting is tuned to appear
mostly white, as there are four white and four
blue bulbs. The blue/violet LEDs run at only
30 percent for some color pop. There is a
1.5-hour ramp with only blue/violet LEDs in
the evening.

Water flow is provided by two Maxspect

Gyre 350 pumps, which alternate in
20-second intervals from 100 percent to 0
percent. This creates a turbulent wave-like
flow that moves from one side of the tank
to the other and travels through the scape
from top to bottom.

WATER PARAMETERS
Temperature: 77° F
Salinity: 35 ppt
pH: 7.8–8.3
Nitrate: 1–3 ppm
Alkalinity: 6.8–7.3 dKH
Calcium: 420–440 ppm

Left side of display

36 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
 Center of display

Magnesium: 1,350 ppm • Hector's Goby (Koumansetta hectori)

Phosphate: 0.04–0.08 ppm • Bristle-tail Filefish (Acreichthys tomentosus)

SUPPLEMENTS CORALS
The system is supplemented using the Fauna Marin Balling Light • Acropora spp.
system, FM Zeo Light, and FM Bacto Energy (as a carbon source). I • Montipora spp.
also dose a small amount of FM Min S and Coral Vitality to support • Anacropora spp.
coral color, growth, and general health. I perform Fauna Marin • Seriatopora spp.
ICP tests monthly, and trace elements are adjusted automatically • Stylophora spp.
with the Balling Light system. My tank has an elevated need for • Pocillopora spp.
zinc and fluorides, which are calculated by the online FM element • Catalaphyllia jardinei
calculator and dosed directly into the alkalinity and calcium canisters • Pavona maldivensis
to maintain the desired levels. • Duncanopsammia axifuga
• Euphyllia glabrescens
MAINTENANCE • Acanthastrea spp.
Weekly maintenance includes an 18-gallon water change (reverse- • Alveopora spp.
osmosis water mixed with Fauna Marin Professional Sea Salt) and • Discosoma spp.
glass cleaning. During the water change, I clean the sump and • Fiji Leather
siphon the sandbed to remove unwanted debris.
OTHER INVERTEBRATES
FISH • Maxima Clam (Tridacna maxima)
• Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) • Crocea Clam (Tridacna crocea)
• Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) • sand-sifting starfish (Archaster angulatus)
• Naso Tang (Naso elegans) • sea biscuit (Clypeaster sp.)
• Two-spot Anthias (Pseudanthias bimaculatus) • star fish (Nardoa galatheae)
• Blue-green Chromis (Chromis viridis) • Porcelain Crab (Neopetrolisthes maculatus)
• Six-line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) • various shrimp species
• Threadfin Cardinalfish (Zoramia leptacantha) • various snail species
• Yellow Coris Wrasse (Helichoeres chrysus) • Christmas Tree Worms

38 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
 Right side of display

The fish are fed four times a day by an automatic

feeder filled with a mix of high-quality dry food
pellets from Fauna Marin. In the evening, they
receive Fauna Marin Green Seaweed flakes, as
well as frozen Mysis and fish eggs from Ocean
Nutrition. I chose to use Fauna Marin’s fish food
based on their extensive research on high-quality
fish feeds and the impact of fish food ingredients on
reef tanks. The appropriate ratios of fatty acids and
carotenes in the food help the fish maintain their
color and health. In my opinion, the importance
of this balance is often underestimated. There is
also a significant relationship between long-term
reef-tank health and nutrient control. This begins
with sourcing high-protein fish food made with the
best possible ingredients.

Over the last few years, I joined social media

platforms like Instagram primarily to help other
reefers improve their knowledge of reef tank biology
and chemistry. There seems to be a significant
need for ICP test result interpretation, and in my
opinion, a vast amount of misinformation and
confusion exists in online forums and discussion
groups. I truly enjoy sharing my daily experiences
and learning from experts. I can’t imagine a more
fascinating, complex, and exciting hobby than
reefing, where there’s always more to discover
and new challenges to tackle. R

40 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
 Top image by Art Parola | Bottom image by Jokuyken15
Maximum Length: ~4 inches (10 cm)
Range: Western Pacific – Indonesia, Papua New
Guinea, Solomon Islands, Samoa, Micronesia, and
the northern Great Barrier Reef, Australia. Also
expected, but unconfirmed, to occur in Tonga.

The Golden Angelfish

(Centropyge aurantia)
ART PAROLA

T
he Golden Angelfish is a cryptic species native to the western
Pacific Ocean. Individuals of this species spend most of their
time in the crevices of coral reefs, hiding among thick corals,
sponges, and rubble. While it is not a rare species, the Golden
Angelfish’s cryptic nature means it is not often seen by scuba divers
and snorkelers. Despite thorough searches and the certainty of the
species’ presence, even the scientists who published the original
description of the species had significant difficulty finding specimens
while surveying the coral reefs of American Samoa, from which the
type specimens were collected. Centropyge aurantia can be found
at depths ranging from 10 to 197 feet (3 to 60 meters). The type
specimens collected from American Samoa were found at depths

42 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
 Golden Angelfish | Image by VOJCE

of 118 to 128 feet (36 to 39 meters), and a survey from Pohnpei,

Micronesia, recorded the species at depths of 36 to 66 feet (11 to
20 meters).

As the common name suggests, the Golden Angelfish displays

a beautiful reddish-orange-yellow hue. The scientific name is
appropriately derived from “aurum,” the Latin word for gold.

The IUCN Red List reports the population trend for C. aurantia to be
stable and categorizes the species as Least Concern on account of
its wide range, large overall population, lack of substantial habitat
loss, and very limited collection for the aquarium trade. It also states
that the species faces no significant threats and “collecting for
the aquarium trade is not considered to be impacting the global
population.”

In the aquarium, Golden Angelfish do best in a tank of at least 30

gallons, with rockwork aquascaped to provide ample nooks and
crannies to closely mimic the fish’s preferred habitat in the wild.
While giving cryptic fish more hiding places may seem somewhat
counterintuitive, this technique can encourage timid fish to spend
more time out in the open, as the availability of readily accessible
refuge allows the fish to feel more comfortable and secure when
venturing out into the open.

While it is possible to keep Golden Angelfish in a reef tank, the

species does pose some risk to corals. Some aquarists report
the Golden Angelfish to have a proclivity for nipping at both large-
polyp (LPS) and small-polyp (SPS) stony corals. As is common with

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 43

other dwarf angelfishes of the genus Centropyge, this propensity
to exhibit coral-nipping behavior varies greatly between individuals
of the species.
It is best to offer Golden Angelfish a variety of foods. Commercially
available frozen foods formulated for marine omnivores that combine
ingredients such as Mysis shrimp, fish, squid, and marine algae make
a good choice. There are even a few frozen food manufacturers
that market products formulated specifically for angelfish. Though
it may take some time, Golden Angelfish can often be weaned
onto dry foods such as flakes or pellets. Fish food technology has
advanced substantially in the last decade. There are now multiple
high-quality products that incorporate highly palatable ingredients,
such as certain fish oils, specifically added to induce a strong
feeding response in picky eaters.
Golden Angelfish have a reputation for being a finicky species
that has difficulty acclimating to the aquarium. The problems with
this species likely stem from substandard collection and handling
practices in early stages of the supply chain. I generally encourage
aquarists to support the livelihoods of fishers who are stewards of
the coral reefs on which they work by choosing to purchase wild
fish over captive-bred fish. Buying net-caught wild fish provides
financial incentive for protecting coral reef habitats in places where
environmentally and economically sustainable employment can be
hard to come by. However, the habits of the Golden Angelfish may
make sustainable collection difficult. Therefore, C. aurantia is a prime
candidate for aquaculture to improve environmental sustainability of
the aquarium trade and to promote the health and longevity of the
Banded Trochus Snail eating algae off the aquarium
glass | Image by Voislav Kolevski
Banded Trochus Snail | Image by Voislav Kolevski
44 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
species in the aquarium hobby. At least one facility in Indonesia is
currently culturing Golden Angelfish for the aquarium trade.
Golden Angelfish are somewhat secretive, but they are beautiful
and rather uncommon in the hobby. Given the proper sourcing,
conditioning, setup, and care, C. aurantia is an attractive and unique
addition to the aquarium. R
References:
Coleman et al. (2018). Shifting reef fish assemblages along a depth
gradient in Pohnpei, Micronesia. PeerJ, 6, e4650. https://peerj.com/
articles/4650/
Froese and Pauly (2000). Centropyge aurantia summary page. FishBase.
Retrieved January 26, 2023, from https://fishbase.se/summary/
Centropyge-aurantia.html
Michael (2004). Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes (pp. 227-229). Microcosm
Limited.
Pyle and Myers (2010). Centropyge aurantia. The IUCN Red List of Threatened
Species in 2009. https://iucnredlist.org/species/165893/6159207
Randall and Wass (1974). Two new pomacanthid fishes of the genus
Centropyge from Oceania. Japanese Journal of Ichthyology, 21(3), 137-
144.
Randall et al. (2003). Checklist of the shore and epipelagic fishes of
Tonga. Atoll Research Bulletin, 502, 1-37.
Golden Angelfish | Image by VOJCE

Reef Hobbyist Magazine 45

 .25-GALLON REEF
I
’ve seen 1-gallon reef tanks and maybe even a few half-gallon
reefs, but I wanted to push mini reefing to the extreme. I wanted
a system that would fit on a desk, nightstand, or shelf without
getting in the way. And I didn’t want to stop there. I wanted it to be
sealed, silent, and fully stocked. No top-offs, no evaporation, and
no air or water pump. It also had to support a diversity of livestock. I
wanted it to keep itself relatively clean and, most importantly, actually
look like a living reef. So here we are, a .25-gallon reef.
THE THEORY
Just like any other plant, macroalgae produce oxygen during the
day and consume oxygen at night through respiration. My theory
was that the oxygen production would be enough on its own to
support a reef of this size. With longer daylight hours and a shorter
night, the oxygen should never deplete, the macroalgae should
46 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
BRENDAN ROSS
grow, and the livestock should be able to breathe. Chaetomorpha
seemed like the perfect choice, with a large surface area to
produce oxygen and a tolerance for a wide range of conditions.
CYCLING
This step was really important with such a small-volume system.
The tank sat for a bit over a month with sand, rock, and water.
Adding a small amount of food helped kickstart the cycle. After
water tests confirmed that the system was ready, the chaeto was
added, and it sat for another month as I watched it grow. At that
point, it was time to begin stocking the tank.
LIVESTOCK
I started to stock the reef slowly. One Blue-leg Hermit, no issues.
He was happy, explored the entire tank, and ate anything he
 Left side view
could find. I added a second Blue-leg Hermit and then an Astraea
snail, still no issues. Oxygen wasn’t a problem, but detritus was
building up in the crevices where the crabs couldn’t reach. I added
a couple of small bristle worms to handle it. The tank was staying
clean, the cleanup crew never struggled for oxygen, and you could
see the bubbles forming on the chaeto as oxygen was being
produced faster than it was being consumed.
The idea was working. A sealed system with no air or water pump
was supporting a simple crew of inverts. But could it support
more?
The next step was to add corals. Without flow, I knew I’d have to
be careful with what I chose. I added six or seven Parazoanthus
polyps, which began opening within 24 hours. Then I added a
Ricordea yuma mushroom, hoping it wouldn’t mind the lack of
flow. It happily opened up within hours.
Over time, the Parazoanthus grew new polyps until it had tripled
in size. The Ricordea, amazingly, split and left behind four new
babies that are half the size of a dime already.
The chaeto continued to keep up with oxygen demand. The
hermits grew larger and moved into new shells, the snail kept the
glass clean, and the bristle worms began reproducing, perhaps
a bit too quickly.
Right side view
After some time, the sandbed was becoming an issue. Without
flow, detritus built up in the sand, and there was nothing to stir it.
I added a Nassarius snail that seemed perfect for the job. I rarely
see it other than when I feed, but the Nassarius has been stirring
the sand for over a month.
With this level of success achieved, I wanted to try a new coral,
something different from the soft corals in the tank. I added a
Montipora, and after 2 weeks, it didn’t seem to be having any
issues.
Surprisingly, this small tank was supporting a large population of
copepods, a few amphipods, and even a spaghetti worm. I was
able to turn the idea of a complete miniature ecosystem into reality.
LATEST ADDITION
Since everything was going so well, I wanted to try adding an
anemone, even though I knew it was going to be a challenge. I
knew just any old anemone wouldn’t work for this tiny system.
No Bubble Tip, Sebae, Condylactis, or even mini carpet anemone
would be viable, so I looked around for options. When I found the
Borneman Anemone, I knew it would be my best choice.
I put the smallest Borneman Anemone I could find in the tank and
within minutes, it opened up. For the next few days, it roamed the
available space trying to find a good place to settle.
Reef Hobbyist Magazine 47
 It finally found its spot and has
been there for over 2 months.
With relatively high oxygen
requirements, I thought an
anemone would push the tank
too far, but that doesn’t seem
to be the case.

EQUIPMENT
There isn’t much equipment to
talk about other than the tank
and light. There are no water
or air pumps, and I’m using a
small heating pad below the
tank to maintain temperature.

I tried a couple of small off-the-

shelf lights on this system, but
none of them did quite what
I wanted. This led me to plan
and build a custom solution.
It was designed to cover the
entire top of the cube without
any overhang. It uses an RGB
LED panel that allows me to
adjust the lighting intensity and
color. I added Wi-Fi controls so
I can program light schedules
and choose the perfect color.

48 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com
CONCLUSION
What started as the seemingly crazy idea to have a reef in .25
gallons of water is now a full-fledged ecosystem complete with a
cleanup crew, corals, an anemone, and more. Testing this concept
would have been impossible without the support and generosity
of Joe at Ocean Rift Aquatics in Canton, Ohio. Nearly a year
after the first test, everything inside is thriving. With this project, I
gained a new appreciation for these amazing marine ecosystems.
And I hope that by sharing this, I’ve inspired other hobbyists to
try something new and unique with their next setup. You can find
more information about the build process and the light design at
ReallySmallReefs.com. R
Reef Hobbyist Magazine 49
PRODUCT REVIEW:
The IceCap ATO EZ
JIM ADELBERG

A
TOs (auto top-offs) are some of the most underappreciated
yet valuable pieces of equipment in our hobby. Maintaining
stable salinity eliminates a whole array of chemical and
biochemical variations that can make your road to reefing success
rockier than it needs to be. As an example of the effects of changing
salinities on chemical processes, consider this: higher-salinity water
carries less dissolved oxygen. Dissolved oxygen in turn impacts
everything from your biological filter’s efficacy to your coral’s ability
to process food. So while there is some variation in salinity on
most wild reefs, and considerable variation on some, minimizing this
variable in a home reef removes one major element of uncertainty All ATOs require maintenance beyond just refilling the ATO reservoir.
that can make these dynamic and complicated environments Sensors and float valves need regular cleaning, and pumps and
challenging to manage. feed lines need occasional maintenance. Luckily, the maintenance
is minimal (partially due to the cleanliness of top-off water), and
Of more pragmatic concern is the issue of stable water levels in in exchange, these devices offer peace of mind and make our
our systems. A drop of only a few inches in a sump’s water level systems much easier to maintain.
can cause a significant reduction in return flow to the display. And
it’s both expensive and dangerous to allow pumps to run dry. I recently was looking for a new ATO system for a tank I was setting
up and saw an ad for the IceCap ATO EZ. I reached out to them
ATOs are basically available in three technological flavors. First is to send me one to test and review so I could let our readers know
a simple gravity-fed ATO. This method encompasses a range of what I thought.
devices, from simple sealed and inverted reservoirs that release
top-off water whenever the water level below drops and exposes My requirements were fairly straightforward, and I think we
their delivery port, all the way to complicated float-valve-driven should expect all these features from ATO manufacturers, even
systems. At the opposite end of the complexity spectrum are fully on moderately priced ATOs like this one (MSRP $89.99).
automated computerized systems that actually analyze the specific
• 3-level sensor or multiple sensors (low level, running level, high
gravity of the system and add top-off water to reach a desired
level)
target salinity. The third type of ATO is the one that dominates the
• Timed auto shutoff (after X minutes, the pump will stop pumping,
hobby and uses an electronic sensor to monitor the water level.
regardless of the sensor input)
Once the level drops, the ATO pumps top-off water into the system
• Energy efficient pump (unless you’re pumping against a large
until the sensor is once again submerged.
head pressure, ATO pumps can be quite modest)
• High and low sump level alarms (visible or audible)

Additionally, I wanted it to be quiet, and I was looking for the

smallest unit I could get. After unboxing and testing IceCap’s
ATO EZ, it checked all the boxes. I was pleased that they used
a 5-watt pump that is nearly silent. I also liked that the three
sensors were squeezed onto a single magnetic mount. There are
LEDs that indicate low, running, and high sump fill levels. And last,
but certainly not least, this is one of the smallest ATO systems
I’ve come across; the sensor is small, the pump is tiny (though
it delivers 50 gph and can pump to a 6’ height), the controller is
miniscule, and the whole setup basically disappears when in use.

I can’t and won’t tell you which ATO will best meet your needs.
Different systems lend themselves to different solutions. I would
recommend this ATO for displays under 150 gallons of total system
volume. If you’re hunting for the same feature list I was, from a
reputable manufacturer, this device fits the bill. R

50 www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com