destination

Berlin
Words by Vanessa Remoquillo

Images by Tobias C. Meier

Zeitgeist of a city

AFTEr iTS ShArE oF ThE blEAk AnD ThE griM, bErlin noW gliSTEnS AS onE oF EuropE'S MoST ExCiTing CiTiES. An unrElEnTing CrEATivE ClASS hAS givEn CAChET To gErMAnyS CApiTAl oF Cool.

Riotous colors greet SANCUARIESthe East Side Gallery, an intact section of the Berlin Wall transformed into murals by artists at the end of the Cold War. 106 COSMOPOLITAN visitors of

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The Oberbaumbrcke, a bridge between the districts of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain, once served as a border checkpoint when Berlin was divided.

It is by your feet, in the quietly evocative stones that mark where the Wall once stood. It is in the slick of the River Spree, whose waterways once separated two countries in a standoff. It is in the Ampelmnnchen, the hat-wearing "traffic-light man" that endured the Communist years, as pedestrians now effortlessly cross from East to West on the street corners that were heavily guarded 20 years ago. The next thing that you cannot help but notice is, in spite of its storied, often dark, always compelling past, Berlin possesses an easygoing, laissez-faire demeanor that is as surprising as it is refreshing and contagious. Berlin feels unlike the rest of Germany, visitors have often remarked. The atmosphere is blunt but friendly, cool but certainly not aloof. For a capital, it carries itself rather unpretentiously. Yet for all its modesty, Berlin deserves its place among Europe's great cities. While its pre-war manufacturing might has faded and the city was not restored to its former industrial importance, Berlin found relevance of a different currency: it is Germany's undisputed capital of creativity. Chock-full of museums, galleries, and theaters, both established and independent, it is a center of dynamic and emerging movements in art, music, design, and literature. Excitement and possibility are in the crisp Berliner Luft (air) of song.

he first thing that strikes you is the history, omnipresent history.

of Berlin's independent art scene. The abandoned shopping center in the Scheunenviertel was scheduled for demolition when a collective of artists occupied it in 1990. City authorities relented, and Tacheles (Yiddish for straightforward talk) was born. The rundown building was transformed into a warren of exhibition spaces and ateliers, a cinema, a club, a sculpture garden, and a theater. It gained cult status, drawing admirers of the dedicated community that lived and worked there. The Tacheles group has been in a long-running battle with developers who have threatened the artists with eviction. It now appears the artists are losing. In April 2011, half of the collective bowed to the pressure and handed over their keys, while 80 remain and vow to continue the fight to keep the cultural symbol alive. The future of Tacheles is uncertain at best, but while its graffiti-smothered doors are still open, visitors should grab the chance to glimpse this monument to the persistence of Berlin's artists. For other members of Berlin's creative class, there is no dearth of venues for their endeavors. A fine example is St. Oberholz, a handsome two-storey corner building popular among the so-called digital Bohme. One finds them in this former 19thcentury beer hall hunched over projects, engrossed in meetings, or furiously typing away on sleek laptops. They are not just here for the WiFi: spacious tables, comfortable fifties-style furniture, good coffee, lively ambienceeven wide windows for some sunlight and inspirationcombine to make St. Oberholz an ideal place to work and to enjoy the proximity to the beating heart of Berlin. The capital teems with small, independently-run cafs oozing with Gemtlichkeit (geniality) and charm. Sullivan, who prefers spaces where he can both work and socialize, shared his favorite haunt. I love to spend time in Wohnzimmer (in Prenzlauer Berg), a kind of retro, GDR-style throwback that's been on the block forever and still serves cheap coffee and bio-sandwiches, he said, It always has an interesting soundtrack that is never too loud you can't read or chat. Then there's great outdoors, in abundant supply in Berlin. While it is easy to associate the German capital with grit and graynessan infamous concrete Wall once stood here, after allBerlin is in fact one of Europe's greenest metropolises. About 46% of its area is either water or green space. Likely borne out of the experience of being in a virtual island throughout the Cold War years, Berliners embrace the outdoors with a passion. Expect to find the locals reclining on a patch of grasssome excellent spots can be found at Monbijoupark and Tiergartencurled up with a book and beers, soaking up the sun, or rowing on lakes. Decommissioned transport and industrial zones are innovatively transformed into parks, the latest example of which is the former Tempelhof airport, now an oasis that rivals New York's Central Park in size.
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A barista makes latte art in Bonanza Coffee Heroes, a standout caf in fashionable Prenzlauer Berg.

This raspberry Trtchen, from Albrechts Patisserie, is one of the sweet spots of Kollwitzkiez.

A beloved figure from the GDR era, the Ampelmnnchen still appears in many pedestrian crossings across the city.

Berlin found relevance of a different currency: it is Germany's undisputed capital of creativity... Excitement and possibility are in the crisp Berliner Luft (air) of song.

coMiNg iN FroM the cold

Graffiti become part of the landscape in Hackescher Markt.

What makes Berlin so attractive to the creative class? Following the German reunification in 1990, affordable spaces in which to live and work emerged. Boroughs in the closed-off Soviet sector became favored stomping grounds of artists from all over the continent who took advantage of the glut in real estate. Apartments cost a fraction of those in London or Paris. Today the neighborhoods of Mitte, Prenzlauer Berg, and Friedrichshain in the former East are sought-after addresses. Tree-lined streets sprout trendy cafs and pubs and an eclectic mix of shops exuding the bohemian flair that gave the districts their appeal and charm. Low rents are only part of the story. Paul Sullivan, a British photographer and writer who has made Berlin his home since 2008, attests to the strong current of creativity that invigorates the city. There's something about Berlin that's eternally fascinating, said Sullivan, who produces authoritative Berlin guides. The way the city seems to be grabbing for the futurethe constant new openings, the popup bars and galleries, the thrill of new ideas not just being discussed but actually being played out... There's a feeling of anything being possible here.

a city that Breathes

traNsForMative sPaces
The brightly hued doorSANCUARIES personality of the 108 COSMOPOLITAN reflects the Scheunenviertel, teeming with galleries, cafs, and bars.

A stubborn example of the possibilities that animate Berlin is Kunsthaus Tacheles, a legendary, if controversial, symbol
A Berlinerin on her bike crosses one of many parks; unfettered green spaces abound in Berlin.

The way the city seems to be grabbing for the futurethe constant new openings, the pop-up bars and galleries, the thrill of new ideas not just being discussed bit actually being played out... There's a feeling of anything being possible here. Paul Sullivan, writer and photographer
The profusion of unfettered public spaces is a boon, according to Frederik Feri, a PhD student who moved to the capital in 2009. Because of the greenery, Berlin feels much less densely populated than one might expect from a city of 3.5 million, he said. You're never too far from a park. It's an absolute luxury to be able to step out in the middle of the city and breathe in fresh air. Not far from there is the East Side Gallery, which features a kilometer-long intact section of the Berlin Wall. Artists from all over the world descended on this stretch of concrete at the end of the Cold War and, armed with paints and brushes, transformed the drabness into murals of freedom, unity, and peace. The infamous Bruderkuss (Fraternal Kiss), depicting GDR politician Erich Honecker and Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev, is among the 160 paintings featured in the open-air gallery. When Berlin unwinds, it does so with the flair of a truly cosmopolitan city. Markets are immensely popular and plentiful. The attractive Kollwitzkiez in Prenzlauer Berg holds a weekend farmers' market featuring fresh produce, wines, and crafts from the Berlin-Brandenburg region. The hunger-inducing smells of grilled meats, falafel, and fresh breads tease the nose and urge the visitor to press deeper into the assemblage of vendors. A similar scene awaits in Hackescher Markt in the center of Berlin, where street musicians and performers mingle with purveyors of Greek salads, Dutch herring, Turkish pastries, German Wrste, and Italian pasta.

Two famous figures in GDR history are locked in a kiss in the "Bruderkuss" ("Fraternal Kiss") painting in the East Side Gallery

the eMBrace oF the Past

For all of Berlin's cutting-edge modernity and sleekness, its history, in the words of Sullivan, ambushes you as you navigate the city. There are monuments and memorials at nearly every turn and the keen insistence on remembrance is integral to Berlin's identity. History lovers who want a glimpse of the Communist East's past glory should stroll down Karl-Marx-Allee, formerly Stalinallee, an impressive boulevard stretching from Mitte to Friedrichshain. Large tanks once rolled down the wide avenue on grand parades that displayed Soviet military might. Lined along this stretch are towering buildings in the socalled Zuckerbckerstil or the wedding cake style originally intended as workers' apartments in the former German Democratic Republic (GDR).

a World city

the Best of germanys capital of cool

The famed museumsinsel (Museum Island) is a spectacular cluster of berlin's five prestigious museumsAltes Museum, neues Museum, Alte nationalgalerie, bodemuseum, and pergamonmuseumon an island in the Spree. Their combined collections capture over 600 years of creativity and artistic expression. The stunning architecture, constructed between 1824 and 1930, merited a designation in the unESCo World heritage list for illustrating the evolution of modern museum design. Pergamonmuseum, the best-known of the siblings, houses exquisite archeological treasures, Islamic art, and antiquities, including the ishtar gate from babylon and the pergamon Altar from Asia Minor. Entrance is free on the first Sunday of the month. <www. smb.museum/smb> While many berliners, especially the younger set, will speak English, a sprinkling of german can brighten your encounters. Say thanks with danke schn (dahn-kuh shun) and cap your requests with the polite Bitte (bih-tuh). enter shops with a friendly hallo or Guten Tag (goot-en tahk). A map is die Karte, the train is die Bahn, and the airport is der flughafen. And don't worry about the beer; it is pronounced the same way in german. Commuting in berlin is affordable and, as in most of germany, often efficient and reliable. The u-Bahn, berlin's answer to paris' mtro, is the quickest way to get around the city, along with the s-Bahn, which covers the greater berlin-brandenburg region. A Kleingruppenkarte, sold at bvg kiosks and a bargain at 15/uS$21, allows you and your companions (maximum of five) to take unlimited rides in berlin's transport system for 24 hours. <www.bvg.de> Sample a true berlin originalthe currywurst. it is a pork sausage cut into slices and served with tangy, spicy curry-ketchup. invented in 1949, it is one of germanys beloved fast foods. Konnopkes imbiss, located below the u-Bahn station eberswalder strasse, claims to have served this every day without fail throughout the Cold War. <www.konnopke-imbiss.de>

Bonanza Coffee heroes (oderberger Strasse 35) serves arguably the best coffee in berlin. Coffee enthusiasts make pilgrimages to this cozy prenzlauer Berg caf, which enjoys a loyal following. Dexterous hands, aided by a whistle-inducing synesso Cyncra, prepare excellent brew. Stop by Bonanza on your way to perusing wares at the mauerpark flea market located nearby. <www. bonanzacoffee.de>
if you are one of those travelers who prefer to saunter instead of rush and enjoy the details instead of blurring past them, slow Travel Berlin is an inspired place to discover berlin's offeringsrestaurants, cafs, parks, and moreall meant to be savored at a more leisurely pace. <www.slowtravelberlin.com>
The baroque Berlin Cathedral has been touted as "the Protestant Saint Peter's Basilica". The 100-foot-tall Molecule Man, an aluminum sculpture by Jonathan Borofsky, looms over the River Spree. asianTraveler 111

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where to find these establishments

Kunsthaus Tacheles oranienburgerstrasse 54-56a 10117 Berlin +49 30 282 6185 u-bahn stop: u6 oranienburger Tor <www.tacheles.de> st. oberholz Rosenthaler Strasse 72a 10119 Berlin +49 30 240 855 86 u-bahn stop: u8 rosenthaler platz <www.sanktoberholz.de> wohnzimmer Lettestrasse 6 10437 berlin +49 30 445 5458 u-bahn stop: u2 Eberswalder Strasse <www.wohnzimmer-bar.de> flohmarkt am mauerpark bernauer Strasse 63-64 10435 berlin u-bahn stop: u2 Eberswalder Strasse <www.mauerparkmarkt.de> Club der visionre Am Flutgraben 12435 berlin +49 30 695 189 42 u-bahn stop: u1 Schlesisches Tor <www.clubdervisionaere.com> Tadschikische Teestube Palais am Festungsgraben Am Festungsgraben 1 10117 Berlin +49 30 204 1112 u-bahn stop: u6 Friedrichstrasse madame Claude Lbbener Strasse 19 10997 Berlin +49 30 841 108 59 u-bahn stop: u1 Schlesisches Tor Karneval der Kulturen <www.karneval-berlin.de> Bonanza Coffee heroes oderberger Strasse 35 10435 berlin u-bahn stop: u2 Eberswalder Strasse <www.bonanzacoffee.de> Konnopkes imbiss Schnhauser Allee 44A 10435 berlin +49 30 4427 765 u-bahn stop: u2 Eberswalder Strasse <www.konnopke-imbiss.de>
The DJs set the tempo in a bar in Treptow. Berlin's music scene is well known for its edge and variety. asianTraveler 113

The elegant brick Postfuhramt, a former post office, now houses C/O Berlin, an exhibition space for fine photography.

Sunshine is not wasted on young Berliners, shown here flocking to the deck of trendy Club der Visionre.

From left to right: Markets and stalls sprout on the streets, selling everything from kitsch to keepsakes; The intricately designed Tajik tea house was a gift to the GDR. Photo: Tadschikische Teestube

Those in search of unique goods head to the youngest of the city's renowned flea markets (Flohmarkt in German) in Mauerpark. Situated in a former buffer zone of the Berlin Wall, the flea bustles with activity on Sundays as hundreds of stalls sell everything from bicycles to books, from vinyl records to vintage leather satchels. The more intrepid venture to the stone amphitheater, where anyone fortified with ample courage can grab the mic in the open-air Bear Pit Karaoke. On warm days Club der Visionre (Club of Visionaries) is irresistible, drawing the young and the hip to a picturesque canal in Treptow. A spacious deck lets guests dip their toes in the water, sip on cocktails, take in the conversation, or simply follow the DJ's lead and break into dance. Only a few steps from the famous Unter den Linden promenade lies the well-hidden Tadschikische Teestube (Tajik teahouse), tucked away on the first floor of the nondescript but historic Palais am Festungsgraben. The room is adorned with intricately designed, hand-carved sandalwood columns, Oriental rugs, low tables, and wide cushions, while paintings depicting Tajik folklore hang on the plush green walls. Guests can recline and choose from an assortment of teas while enjoying readings of Russian fairy tales and poetry. The parlor has a fascinating history: the ornate tearooms were originally part of a 1974 exhibition in Leipzig and later given as a gift by the Tajik Soviet Socialist Republic to the GDR. Highly recommended is the delightful Russian tea ceremony. An elegant samovar, a metal container for boiling water that is a staple in Russian homes, is brought to the table, while the
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tea is served with jam, honey, and sugar, just as the Russians like it. Reservations are a must. A short hop on the U-Bahn will take one to Kreuzberg, a district where the Lebensgefhl (spirit of life) remains as bohemian as it was before Berlin became trendy. Home to students, politicians, and musicians, it has bred a gritty, nonconformist, and anti-establishment subculture. Cafs and bars, such as the quirky Madame Claude, where the furniture is nailed to the ceiling, are unafraid to push boundaries. Kreuzberg's Turkish immigrants, the largest assembly outside Turkey, have added color to the tapestry; one hears Turkish on the streets and in the shops as frequently as German. Every year Kreuzberg hosts karneval der kulturen (Carnival of Cultures), a street festival that has attracted over a million visitors in a celebration of the richness of international cultures that can be found in Berlin. Berlin's mayor famously appropriated the words of author Wladimir Kaminer, himself a resident, to describe the city: arm aber sexy. Poor but sexy. The city might have fallen on tough economic times and its citizens are not the wealthiest in Germany. Yet its unique circumstances, wrought by history and politics, compelled it to build on an enviable creative capital and transformed Berlin into a true embarrassment of riches.