JIMMY CORNELL

WORLD CRUISING
ROUTES ·
Second Edition

~"
JS?.!h
ADLARD COLES NAUTICAL
London
 For Juan Francisco Martin and all those who are
living their dreams on the oceans of the world.

Waypoint disk
If you would like an IBM PC compatible computer disk
containing all of the waypoints and coordinates included
in this book send a cheque for £9.99 (including VAT and
postage and packing) payable to A & C Black to
PO Box 19, Huntingdon, Cambs PE19 3SF.
Tel: (01480) 212 666 Fax: (01480) 405 014.
Alternatively you may pay by credit card using the
telephone number above.

Second edition 1995

Published by Adlard Coles Nautical
an imprint of A & C Black (Publishers) Ltd
35 Bedford Row, London WC1R 4JH

Copyright© Jimmy Cornell 1987, 1990, 1995

First edition published by Adlard Coles 1987

Reprinted with amendments 1988
Reprinted 1989
Revised and expanded edition 1990
Reprinted 1992
Second edition published by Adlard Coles Nautical 1995

ISBN 0-7136-4070-7
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may
be reproduced in any form or by any means - graphic,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording, taping or information storage and retrieval
systems - without the prior permission in writing of
the publishers.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from

the British Library.

Sketch maps by Maggie Nelson

Typeset in 9 on 11pt Linotron Palatino by Falcon Graphic Arts, Wallington, Surrey

Printed and bound in the United States of America
Contents
Acknowledgements viii
Preface to Second Edition ix
Explanatory Note x
Introduction 2
1 Route planning 4
2 Principal world cruising routes 8
3 Winds and currents of the world 15
ATLANTIC OCEAN
~ Winds and currents of the North Atlantic 33
5 Routes in the North Atlantic 37
ANlO Routes from North Europe 38
AN20 Routes from Portugal 48
AN30 Routes from Gibraltar 54
AN40 Routes from Madeira 64
ANSO Routes from the Canary Islands 70
AN60 Routes from the Cape Verde Islands and West Africa 80
AN70 Routes from the Lesser Antilles 85
ANSO Routes from the Virgin Islands 96
AN90 Caribbean routes from Panama 106
ANlOO Routes in the Caribbean Sea 117
ANllO Routes from the Bahamas and Florida 124
AN120 Routes from Bermuda 133
AN130 Routes from the Azores 141
AN140 Atlantic routes from North America 150
6 Transequatorial routes in the Atlantic 162
ATlO Southbound routes 163
AT20 Northbound routes 171
7 Winds and currents of the South Atlantic 180
8 Routes in the South Atlantic 182
ASlO Routes from South Africa 182
AS20 Routes from South America 187
PACIFIC OCEAN
9 Winds and currents of the North Pacific 195
10 Routes in the North Pacific 200
PNlO Routes from the West Coast of North America 200
PN20 Pacific routes from Central America and Mexico 207
PN30 Routes from Hawaii 216
CONTENTS

Routes in the Far East 225

Pacific routes from Singapore
PN40 225
Routes from the Philippines
PNSO 231
Routes from Hong Kong
PN60 236
Routes'from Japan
PN70 242
Routes from Micronesia
PNSO 249
11 Transequatorial routes in the Pacific 255·
PTlO Transequatorial routes i"!,.the Eastern Pacific 255
PT20 Transequatorial routes in the Central Pacific 265
PT30 Transequatorial routes in the Western Pacific 271
12 Winds and currents of the South Pacific 278·~ ·

13 Routes in the South Pacific 283

PSlO Routes in the Eastern South Pacific 285
PS20 Routes in Eastern Polynesia 292
PS30 Routes in Central Polynesia •298
PS40 Routes in Western Polynesia 308
PSSO Routes in the Central Pacific 317
PS60 Routes from New Zealand 325
PS70 Routes from Southern Melanesia 336
PSSO Routes from Northern Melanesia 344
PS90 Routes from New Sou't h Wales 349
PSlOO Routes from Queensland 354

INDIAN OCEAN
14 Winds and currents of the North Indian Ocean 361
15 Routes in the North Indian Ocean 364
INlO Routes from Southeast Asia 365
IN20 Routes from Sri Lanka 371
IN30 Routes in the Arabian Sea 376
16 Transequatorial routes in the Indian Ocean 381
ITlO Northbound routes 381
IT20 Southbound routes 391
17 Winds and currents of the South Indian Ocean 395
18 Routes in the South Indian Ocean 398
ISlO Routes from Australia 399
IS20 Routes from Indonesia 406
IS30 Routes in the Central Indian Ocean 408
IS40 Routes in the Western Indian Ocean 413
ISSO Routes from the Mascarene Islands 419
IS60 Routes from Africa 424

RED SEA
19 Winds and currents in the Red Sea 429
20 }\outes in the Red Sea 431

vi
 CONTENTS

RN Nor~hbound routes 432

RS Southbound routes 437
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
21 Winds and currents in the Mediterranean Sea · 442
22 Routes in the Mediterranean Sea 445
M10 Mediterranean routes from Gibraltar 448
M20 Routes from the Balearic Islands 453
M30 Routes from Mediterranean France 456
M40 Routes from Sicily 460
MSO ltoutes from Malta 466
M60 Routes from Greece 471
M70 Routes from Port Said 476
M80 Routes from Cyprus 481
~90 Routes from Israel 486
23 Panama· ahd Suez Canals 489
Bibliography 495
Cruising Guides 497
Index of routes 499

vii
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
n writing this book I have drawn on the expe-
Ithose
rience of many of my friends, particularly
who have sailed on routes which I have not.
Norma and Chester Lemon, who circumnavigat-
ed both the Pacific and Indian Oceans on
Honey mead, and Illa and Herbert Gieseking of Lou
V, now on their second world voyage after cir-
cumnavigating on Lou IV, have written many infor-
mative letters about the routes they have sailed.
A similar specia l mention must also go to Muriel
and Erick Bouteleux for information on routes cov-
ered during their circumnavigation on Cnlao. Other
circumnavigators whom I wish to thank for their
contribution are: Liz and Bruce MacDonald of
Horizon; Marg and Bob Miller of Galatea IV; Julie
and Doncho Papazov of Tivia; Waltraud and Robert
Bittner, formerly of Vamos, now sailing on
Lorebella; Kjell and Marit Heiberg on Makiki III;
Phil and Doris Tworoger on folly II Rogd and, more
recently, on Jolly II Roger II.
My thanks also to other long distance voyagers
who have supplied information on specific areas
or topics: Sandra and Paul Ewing of Maamari;
Gunter Gross of Hligar the Horrible; Peter Noble of
Artemis; Kim Prowd of Tarrawarra; Margaret and
Charles Pickering of Keegenoo; Pierre Ribes of
Sp/1i11x; Nina and Juan Ribas of Abuelo III; Frances
and Bill Stocks of Kleena Kleene II; Saskia and John
Whitehead of Cornelia; Captain John Rains for his
viii
valuable tips on passages between California and
Panama.
I am most grateful to Chris Bonnet of the Ocean
Sailing Academy, Durban, for the wealth of infor-
mation he supplied concerning sailing conditions
in South Africa waters.
I would also like to thank the following for their
help in various ways: the librarians at the National
Maritime Museum, Greenwich; National Bureau
of Standards, US Department of Commerce; the
US Defense Mapping Agency; the Minories staff
of Kelvin Hughes Ltd, Admiralty agents for
charts and nautical publications; the Cruising Asso-
ciation; and the Seven Seas Cruising Association.
On both sides of the Atlantic I have been very for-
tunate in being able to resort for valuable advice on
many matters to two friends whose professional life
is dedicated to nautical publications: Milt Baker of
Bluewater Books & Charts, in Fort Lauderdale, and
Julian van Hasselt of Kelvin Hughes, in London.
Grateful thanks are also d ue to Janet Murphy,
my editor at Adlard Coles Nautical, for never fail-
ing to deal promptly and imaginatively with the
many queries raised by a workaholic author.
This book, like others of my often too ambitious
projects, could not have been accomplished with-
out Gwenda's wholehearted support and dedi-
cation. As always, my most grateful thanks must
go to my lifelong friend and partner.
 PREFACE TO THE
SECOND EDITION
ince this book was first published in 1987 I have
S received many positive comments and also
some very valuable suggestions from sailors
using it. Although in recent years I have not been
able to sail as much as I would have liked, main-
ly because of my involvement with the various sail-
ing events which I organise, it is this very.
involvement with all those hundreds of active
sailors which has provided a rich and constant
source of information on new cruising areas,
unusual weather conditions, or less frequented sail-
ing routes. I have also benefitted from the first hand
experience gained during the first EUROPA
Round the World Rally, some of which I sailed in
my own La Aventura. All this information, gained
both directly and indirectly, has been incorporat-
ed in this revised and expanded edition.
By far the most important change that has
occurred since this book was first published is the
almost total dependence on satellite navigation in
offshore sailing. Therefore all routes have been
thoroughly revised in light of the ascendancy of
satellite navigation. To simplify the planning of
individual routes essential waypoints are listed.
Several new routes have also been added as boats
venture further afield and new cruising grounds
are being discovered. Landfall information, as well
as· main ports of entry are also included to assist
the planning of each passage from the beginning
to its successful end. In many places routes have
been regrouped by bringing together all routes
originating from the same country or group of
islands. For the sake of clarity, every such group
has its own sketch map, so all sketch maps have
been redrawn and now show not just the route
itself but also the main distances.
Sailing routes depend primarily on weather,
which changes little over the years. However, pos-
sibly as a result of the profound changes that have
occurred in the ecological balance of the world
environment, there have been several freak
weather conditions in recent years. Their most wor-
rying aspect is that they are rarely predicted, occur
in the wrong season and often in,places where they
have not been known before. Violent storms have
been recorded recently at times and in places where
they had not occurred before. Similarly, the vio-
lence of some tropical storms exceeds almost any-
thing that has been experienced before. The
depletion of the ozone layer and the gradual warm-
ing up of the oceans will undoubtedly affect weath-
er throughout the world and will increase the risk
of tropical storms. The unimaginable force of mega-
hurricanes Hugo and Andrew should be a warn-
ing of worse things to come. All we can do is heed
those warnings, make sure that the seaworthiness
of our boats is never in doubt and, whenever pos-
sible, limit our cruising to the safe seasons. Also,
as the sailing community depends so much on the
forces of nature, we should be the first in protecting
the environment and not contribute to its callous
destruction.
Jimmy Cornell,
Aups, Provence, 1994
ix
 EXPLANATORY NOTE
he most important change which has occurred
T in this edition is the inclusion of individual
waypoints for every route. The main aim of these
waypoints is to help with the planning of a par-
ticular route and, as the original aim of this book
was always that of being an aid to route planning,
it must be stressed that the inclusion of waypoints
must not be regarded as turning this book into a
pilot for the world.
In order to organise both routes and waypoints
in a logical manner, the world has been divided
into three main 'regions: Atlantic (A), Pacific (P),
and Indian (I). Each of the three oceans has been
further divided into its two hemispheres, so that
sailing routes are grouped in six main regions:
North Atlantic (NA), South Atlantic (SA), North
Pacific (NP), South Pacific (SP), North Indian (NI),
and South Indian (SI). Every route within a region
is identified by those two letters and its own num-
ber, thus AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar. Because they
have certain features in common, transequatori-
al routes in every ocean have been dealt with sep-
arately and are identified by the Jetter 'T'
preceded by the letter identifying the ocean in
question, eg PT22 Tahiti to Hawaii. The Red Sea
and Mediterranean have been included as separate
regions. Because routes in the Red Sea are directional
in character, they have been subdivided as north-
bound (RN) or southbound (RS). As in other parts
of the world, Mediterranean routes are dealt with
as separate groups and are identified by an 'M'.
Every one of the six main regions has been sub,
divided into individual groups, the routes includ-
ed in one of those groups sharing certain common
features. The numbering of the group reflects its
particular region, thus PS60 groups all routes from
New Zealand. Within this particular group there
are eight routes, each having an individual iden-
x
tification number, eg PS64 New Zealand to Fiji.
The same system of numbering carries on into the
numbering of individual waypoints, so that the
various waypoints listed for that route PS64 have
the following numbers: PS641, PS642, PS643, etc.
The inclusion of waypoints has made it neces-
sa.ry to redesign the table preceding each route. The
aim of these tables.is to provide at a glance all the
essential information pertaining to each individ-
ual route: the best time to sail it, the period of trop-
ical storms, US or British passage charts or
sailing directions that will be needed, and the rel-
evant cruising guides.
The waypoints themselves are listed in three sep-
arate columns: departure, intermediate, and land-
fall. Also listed are the coordinates of suggested
ports of destination, usually those which are also
official ports of entry. Departure waypoints are nor-
mally located well outside the port of departure
and wherever possible clear of land and traffic.
Similarly, landfall waypoints are given as close to
land as it is normally safe to go before switching
over to coastal navigation. Coordinates of the ports
of destination are given in italics eg Whangarei
35 "44'5, 174'20'E. The italicised script draws
attention to the fact that the particular port can-
not be reached directly from the landfall waypoint
and therefore its coordinates should not be used for
navigation and simply fed into the automatic pilot!
Indeed, it is rarely possible to sail a direct course
from a given landfall point to the nearest port of
destination as, for example, above, where the port
of Whangarei is located several miles up a wind-
ing river. It is therefore hoped that no one will
attempt to sail a direct course from PS535 Bream
(35 .SO'S, 174 "38' E), the landfall waypoint off
Bream Head in the approaches to Whangarei, right
into the port of Whangarei itself.

Occasionally italicised coordinates are listed as
intermediate waypoints when either a certain
detour or an intermed_iate stop are suggested. For
example, such a stop might be considered at
Suvorov Atoll by boats on passage from Bora Bora
to Pago Pago. Similarly, on a route where indi-
vidual waypoints cannot be · given because of
expected weather conditions, such as on route PS44
Samoa to Society Islands, the coordinates of the
ports of departure and destination are in italicised
script to draw attention to the fact that they are
only given for information and that a route can-
not be sailed between them.
Just as the number of a route is related to the
relevant ocean and hemisphere, so the number of
individual lNl!YP.oints is related to the number of
that particular route. Waypoints which are near
land ' also have a name eg PS535 Bream.
Intermediate waypoints, especially those which are
in mid-ocean, are only identified by their number.
Such intermediate waypoints are usually given as
a guideline, as in the case of those listed for route
PS26 Tahiti to Cape Horn, where the actual route
sailed will depend primarily on existing weather
conditions. In such situations it is made clear in
the text that intermediate waypoints are only hypo-
thetical.
In certain areas the same waypoint is used for
several routes, but for the sake of clarity the way-
points are always·renumbered to relate to the indi-
vidual route, although its name will remain the
same. Thus, a much used waypoint off Cape
Finisterre will appear as AN161 Finisterre on route
AN16 Northern Europe to the Mediterranean, and
as AN171 Finisterre on route AN17 Northern
Europe to Madeira. Occasionally, the same name
has had to be used for different waypoints, in
which case they have been identified by cardinal
points, thus Vincent N, Vincent SW or Vincent S.
On many routes there is a choice of destinations,
just as on other routes there is a choice of ports of
departure. For instance, boats sailing from
Gibraltar to the Azores can clear in at either Ponta
Delgada or Horta. Similarly, boats bound from
Tonga for the Fijian capital Suva could take their
departure from either Tongatapu or Vava'u. On
other routes there are two or even three different
EXPLANATORY NOTE
ways of sailing that particular route, either
because of seasonal differences or other consid-
erations. In all such cases, the alternatives are list-
ed separately and are given their own letter eg
route PS14A, route PS14B, etc. Waypoints are list-
ed for each alternative route.
A new feature of this edition is the inclusion of
essential landfall information, which was not given
in the previous edition. The official ports of entry
are mentioned at the end of all major routes, and
suggestions are made as to which ports are easi-
er to reach or more convenient to use for clearance
purposes. Also indicated are the ports where the
authorities need to be contacted in advance by
radio as well as the recommended procedure on
arrival.
Each group of routes is accompanied by a dia-
gram showing a sketch map of that particular
region of the world and also the routes crossing
it. Every route is identified by its individual num-
ber and also lists relevant distances. Distances
between the port of departure and that of desti-
nation, are also shown in the table accompanying
each route.
Author's Note
The sketch maps accompanying the text are sim-
ple diagrams to show approximate positions of
routes only. Since the coordinates of waypoints and
any other coordinates listed in this book are only
for planning purposes and must not be used for
navigation, sailors using this book are strongly
advised always to consult the relevant charts and
sailing directions for the areas they are sailing
through or are planning to cruise. They should also
endeavour to obtain the latest corrections to their
charts and sailing directions. One must also be
aware that there are serious discrepancies
between the position of certain reefs, rocks or even
entire islands, as depicted on some charts, and their
actual coordinates as calculated by GPS.
While every effort has been made to ensure the
accuracy of the data included in this volume, nei-
ther the publishers nor the author can assume any
responsibility for possible errors made in these
pages.
xi
 INTRODUCTION
s a young man growing up in Romania, caged
A in by an iron curtain which separated me from
the rest of the world, planning imaginary journeys
was the only way I was allowed to travel. I relieved
my frustrations by making dream voyages to exot-
ic places, tracing my finger along the routes I would
take on an old atlas of the world. Route planning
fascinated me then and continued to do so, even
after I obtained my freedom and the world lay
before me. Routes across Europe became miracu-
lously transformed into the reality of railroads and
motorways, as later on pencil marks on charts were
to become sailing tracks across .the oceans.
As a voyage around the world passed from being
a dream into a possibility, a finger tracing a line
on a chart was no longer sufficient and I started
planning my voyage in earnest. Trying to trans-
late dreams into concrete plans was not so easy and
although the shelves were full of books on almost
every aspect of cruising under sail, I found very
little on route planning aimed specifically at the
small boat voyager. This gap, although annoying,
was not enough to deter me from setting off, as
so many others had also done. During a six year
circumnavigation on Aventura with my wife
Gwenda and our children Doina and Ivan, we vis-
ited some seventy countries in five continents and
covered 60,000 miles, including some of the
remotest areas of the world. During that long voy-
age, I retained my interest in routeing and collected
information as I went along. Eventually that mat-
erial was to form the basis of this book. The lessons
learnt during my first circumnavigation were pu t
to good use when my present yacht La Aventura
joined 35 other yachts taking part in the first round
the world rally.
This book attempts to fill a gap, which existed
when I set off on my first circumnavigation, by pro-
2
viding essential information on winds, currents,
regional and seasonal weather, as well as details
of nearly 500 cruising routes. With the help of the
information contained in this book, I hope to make
it much easier for anyone who intends to under-
take an ocean voyage to do all forward planning
from the comfort of their home. Once the voyage
has started the book will continue to be useful in
suggesting alternatives or detours from the main
itinerary.
World Cruising Routes is a guide to cruising routes
not a comprehensive pilot for the entire world, and ·
its users are urged to refer to the relevan t sailing
directions, pilot charts, and regional publications
before undertaking a particular passage. Because
of the vast area included in the book, only the basic
data needed for planning an extensive cruise could
be included, as it would have been physically
impossible to include in one single volume
detailed information about every route. I had to
limit myself to giving only general directions on
how to get from one destination to the next. These
directions .mention safe and dangerous seasons,
prevailing winds, the kind of weather to be expect-
ed, as well as other factors that ought to be known
by a small boat voyager. Whenever a particular
aspect was debatable or variable, such as the begin-
ning or end of a hurricane season, the strength of
a particular current, or the frequency of gales in
a specific area, I have preferred to err on the side
of caution. For the same reason, I have concentrated
on giving details for what is considered to be the
safe cruising season and less on weather conditions
during unfavourable seasons. I believe that cruis-
ing should be a pleasurable activity, and because
many unpleasant conditions can be avoided with
a little planning this aspect is emphasised
throughout the book. Therefore the book concen-

trates· more on the tropical regions of the world,
where most sailors intend to cruise or dream of
cruising one day, and Jess on how to prepare for
a gale swept mid-winter crossing of the North
Atlantic.
The primary aim of this book is to enable the
reader to plan a voyage from beginning to end and
the information needed to do this is fourfold: gen-
eral offshore weather conditions, descriptions of
actual routes, dangers to be avoided, and some
brief landfall information including recommend-
ed ports of entry. Areas which are seldom visited
by sailing boats have either been omitted or
described briefly. The information concerning
weather is only intended as a rough guide to what
weather condjtions can be expected in certain areas
by those planning to sail there.
Every route mentions the best time for a passage
to be made along that route and the season when
tropical storms affect that particular region. The
extent of the hurricane season is given for the entire
route, even if the point of departure or that of
arrival are not themselves subject to tropical
storms, but when the threat of hurricanes does exist
in some area along that route. Also given are the
great circle distances between principal ports, but
as these distances are only meant for guidance, they
are approximate, especially when the suggested
route is not direct. Also indicated at the beginning
of each route are the charts and sailing directions
(pilots) relevant to that part of the world.
Although the sailing directions deal mainly with
pilotage in coastal areas, and their use on ocean
passages is limited, it is advisable to have on board
pilots of areas adjacent to those that will be sailed
through in case an emergency landfall has to be
made in an area for which charts are not carried.
Both American and British charts and publications
are indicated because certain parts of the world
are covered better by one or the other hydrographic
office. As a general rule, British charts are better
for areas which were once part of the former British
Empire, whereas American charts tend to be more
accurate in areas of prime US interest, such as the
North Pacific. Although chart and pilot numbers
were correct at the time of going to press, some
numbers are changed occasionally and this
should be borne in mind especially when order-
INTRODUCTION
ing charts suggested at the beginning of each route.
For reasons of.space, but also because certain
well sailed areas of the world are already more than
adequately covered by other publications, I have
kept to a minimum the information on cruising
routes within North America, Northern Europe,
and the Mediterranean. The few routes mentioned
for those areas are only meant for general guid-
ance for outsiders who plan to cruise in those coun-
tries and not as a cruising guide once there. In a
similar way, the book gives routes on how to get
to a certain area, for example the Bahamas, but it
is not a guide to cruising between islands within
that area.
I hope to be forgiven if I have missed or over-
looked some routes. Several times I have decid-
ed to omit a little frequented route when I knew,
for instance, that there is rarely more than ' one
cruising boat per year sailing from Tuvalu to the
Solomon Islands direct. In such cases I considered
that there was sufficient information which could
be taken from adjacent routes, where conditions
are similar.
There are probably some people who expect a
book of this kind to provide precise solutions for
all their needs. Obviously this would be impos-
sible, especially when dealing with something as
inconsistent as winds and weather. Every so often
freak weather occurs which can affect even the nor-
mally dependable routes. There is an infinite vari-
ety of circumstances which renders it impossible
to lay down any fixed rule which can be followed
to advantage at all times. Therefore, in those cases
in which a certain course is pointed out to be the
best to be pursued, but this proves impossible to
accomplish, it is always better to follow one's
instincts, even if it results in a detour or delay.
As well as drawing on a large variety of
sources, much of the material included in the book
was provided from my own voyaging. I have also
received enormous help from my many sailing
friends, particularly those who have ventured
where I have not. In those areas, the faculty learnt
in my youth of transposing myself to unknown
places has served me in good stead. I am still trac-
ing my finger along routes on charts, but this time
with a little help from my friends.
3
 1
ROUTE
PLANNING
ome voyages start as a dream , but end as a
S nightmare, usually due to lack of plannin g and
inadequate preparation. Almost any well found
modern sailing boa t is able to travel from point
A to point B under most conditions, provided the
length of time it takes does not ma tter. Whether
this is worth doing or not is highly debatable.
Cap tain Bligh nearly had a mutiny on his hands
when he stubbornly tried to round Cape Horn from
east to west in the m iddle of winter. He finally
gave up and turned around only to find an even
grea ter challenge in the Tahitian vahines.
Evidently, even the best forward planning could
not have foreseen that kind of danger.
Fortunately the factors that have to be taken into
account when planning an extended voyage are
more predictable, and most of the dangers tha t can
threaten a cruise are well known. The wise nav-
igator planning an offshore voyage will try to take
full advantage of the favourable winds and cur-
rents and avoid encountering any extreme weath-
er. An offshore cruising boat should be well
enough constructed so as to be able to withstand
the average gale, and fortunately along the routes
described in this volume the frequency of violent
storms is extremely low during the accepted 'safe'
cruising season. Th e main danger to be aware of
are tropical rev olving storms, whether these are
called hurrkanes, cyclones, typhoons or
willy-willies, but since these affect known areas
during certain times of the year, they can be avoid-
ed . This is wh ere advance route planning has a
major role to play, as it is perfectly possible to plan - there a re always boats for sale in Caribbean ports,
a voyage to all the popular cruising areas with vir-
tually no risk of en countering a hurrican e,
cyclone, or typhoon.
An oth er ·element that must be taken into
account when plC1nning a voyage are the few areas
4
I
of the world considered to be dangerous because
of piracy, drug trafficking, or high criminality.
Because of their human nature.such dangers are
more difficult to predict than na tural phenome-
na, althou gh the areas to be avoided are usually
known and the sailing grapevine sounds warnings
about a reas that should be given a wide berth, be
it some of the islands between Indonesia a nd the
Philippines, certain countries in East or West
Africa, or parts of the Red Sea. This is where a
marine SSB radio or an amateur radio can be very
useful since it allows one to obtain information
from other sailors cruising in areas which one
intends to visit in the immediate future.
Yet in spite of all the information available and
the fact that so m uch more is known abou t the
weather systems of the world, small boats still
come to grief every year often because their skip-
pers ignore all warnings and decide to spend the
hurricane season in an area know n to be hit by
these violent storms. Less traumatic, but never-
theless uncomfortable, is the realisation made each
year by owners of boats from the west coast of
Amer ica, who find themselves in some South
Pacific island at the end of a pleasant downwind
cruise without the slightest idea of how to get back
home. Eventually some choose the logical solu-
tion and carry on westwards, adding thousands
of miles to a cruise, which has turned into an
unplanned circumnavigation. A certain degree of
..advance planning could have made life easier. Such
lack of forward planning is the main reason wh y
their disenchanted European owners not relishing
the return voyage across the Atlantic.
On the other hand, th ere are obviously
instances where either by force or by choice one
has to fight the elements to reach a· cer tain point.

After 'transiting the Panama Canal in Aventura we
decided to visit Peru and the west coast of South
America, before starting our cruise among the
islands of the South Pacific. As we were very deter-
mined to sail to Peru, the only alternative to a long
beat against contrary winds and the Humboldt cur-
rent would have been an even longer detour
around Cape Horn or through the Magellan
Straits. Our decision to go against the weather was
only taken because of our wish to visit a particu-
lar place. When planning a longer voyage, how-
ever, the most important thing is to make the best
use of favourable winds and to avoid bad weath-
er by choosing a suitable course and, above all, by
being in the right place at the right time.
When starting to plan a voyage one of the first
requirements in the planning stages is a gnomonic
chart for the longer offshore passages one intends
to undertake. Although GPS has obviated the need
for such charts it is wise to have one on board, and
to be familiar with their purpose and how to use
them. A gnomonic chart is necessary because the
ordinary navigational charts, based on the
Mercator projection, cannot be used for planning
an offshore passage of more than a few hundred
miles. On the Mercator charts all meridians are rep-
resented as straight parallel lines that do not con-
verge at the poles, as meridians do in reality. This
means that any straight line drawn between two
points on one of these charts based on the
Mercator projection is not necessarily the short-
est distance between those two points, and
although a ship that sails such a course will reach
its destination, it will not be by the shortest route.
To be able to sail more efficiently it is necessary
to establish the great circle route, which is the short-
est distance between two points on the surface of
the earth.
The pripciples of great circle sailing have been
known for a long time and it is believed that great
navigators such as Columbus and Magellan were
already acquainted with•the subject. The advan-
tages of sailing along a great circle route were first
mentioned in a work by the Portuguese astrono-
mer Pedro Nufiez in 1537. They were .brought to
the attention of British se~en in the book The Arte
of Navigation translated into English by Richard
Eden in 1561. Other works also referred to the
applications of great circle sailing, but the term
itself appears to have been coined by John Davis
in a book published in 1594 under the title of
Seaman's Secrets, which described 'three Kinds of
ROUTE PLANNING
Sayling -Horizontall, Paradoxall and Sayling upon
a Great Circle' .
It was about the same time that the Dutch math-
ematician Gerhard Mercator published a univer-
sal map on a projection that now bears his name.
A course represented by a straight line on a
Mercator chart is called a rhumb line and for short
voyages sailing along such a line between the port
of departure and that of arrival makes a minimal
difference. Jn order to find the shorter route for
a longer passage, the same straight line will have
to be drawn on a gnomonic chart, which uses a dif-
ferent projection with meridians converging at the
poles and parallels of latitude represented by
curved lines. Any straight line on a gnomonic chart
is part of a great circle and is indeed the shortest
distance between the two points joined by that line.
Because gnomonic charts cannot be used for nav-
igation, the great circle track drawn on such a chart
has to be transferred to a Mercator chart. This is
done by making a note of the latitudes at which
the great circle route intersects successive merid-
ians which have been selected at convenient inter-
vals, usually at 5·. These positions are transferred
to the corresponding Mercator chart and joined by
straight lines. This succession of rhumb lines
approximates very closely the actual great circle
track for that route.
This rather cumbersome method of finding the
great circle track for any chosen route can be avoid-
ed by solving the problem not graphically but
mathematically. All this is taken care of now by
GPS, which gives both the great circle course and
distance to the next destination with the added
advantage of t)lese values being constantly
updated. However, GPS only does this when one
is already w1derway. Therefore, for planning pur-
poses one should obtain either a gnomonic chart
or a software programme for one' s computer.
The purchase of gnomonic charts is therefore no
longer absolutely necessary for those who intend
to calculate their great circle course by other means,
although acquiring the pilot charts for the oceans
that will be crossed is essential. These charts are
published by the US Department of Defense
Hydrographic Center and can be obtained from
the usual chart agents. Pilot charts are issued for
all oceans of the world and give monthly or quar-
terly averages of wind d irection and strength, cur-
rents, percentages of calms and gales, limits of ice,
tropical storm tracks, and other kinds of informa-
tion. The data contained in these charts is based
5
ROUTE PLANNING
on observations made by ships that have passed
through those areas and although they give an
accurate overall picture of weather conditions for
a certain time of year, they are only averages and
must be regarded as such.
With the help of the relevant pilot charts for the
area to be sailed and the directions contained in
this book, planning a voyage can start in earnest.
In order to make it simpler to draw up the gen-
eral outline of a longer cruise, some hypothetical
voyages are described in the next chapter. These
examples are only meant to show what can be done
in a given amount of time. Both short term and long
term planning are finally the responsibility of the
skipper who knows best what are the capabilities
and limitations of his or her crew and boat.
The importance of long term or forward plan-
ning can be seen from the following example.
Presuming that a cruise of a few months is planned
in the Lesser Antilles, the order in which the islands
are visited should be determined by subsequent
plans. Most people leave from the Canaries con-
cerned only with crossing the Atlantic by the fastest
and most convenient route, their landfall in the
Caribbean being decided by many factors, but not
always by long term considerations. If one is plan-
ning to sail to Europe or the USA at the end of the
cruising season in the Caribbean, the logical way
to cruise through the islands is from south to north,
so that the same ground will not be covered twice.
On the other hand, if the voyage will continu e in
the Pacific and a transit of the Panama Canal is
planned, it makes more sense to end the transat- .
!antic crossing in one of the islands further north,
such as Antigua or Guadeloupe, and then sail
down the chain of islands towards Grenada or
Venezuela. Such a route would ensure better winds
when sailing among the Lesser Antilles and also
a shortef passage to Panama when the time arrives.
The P'}5sage across the Caribbean Sea can be very
boisterous at the end of winter and a start from
one of the ABC Islands of{ Venezuela (Aruba,
Bonaire, or Cura~ao) can make that leg shorter and
more pleasant. An additional advantage of this
route is the fact that the southernmost part of the
Caribbean.is very rarely affected by hurricanes, so
that if the. cruise is delayed for any reason, the boat ··
will be in a relatively safe place.
Equally important when forward planning is to
allow certain subjective factors to influence the
choice of routes. An order of priorities has to be
decided and this is u sually the point at which one
must be prepared to face up to one's own limita-
tions. All too often people are ashamed to admit
to others, and even to themselves, that they are
afraid of a certain passage. A good exanple is the
rounding of the Cape of Good Hope, rrfore aptly
called the Cape of Storms, which is indeed a very
dangerous area, especially if one is yot too confi-
dent that the boat could take a knool<down or cap-
size, which is an eventuality that must be faced
by all those who take this route. There is
absolutely nothing wrong in avoiding such a pas-
sage and this can be done easily by choosing the
Red Sea route instead. However, this decision must
be made well in advance, ideally before going
through the Torres Strait and not on the eve of
departure from Mauritius.
Reliance on auxiliary engines has become an
accepted part of modern cruising and this is the
reason why on certain routes skippers are
advised to have a good reserve of fuel as this can
make a great difference to the length of the pas-
sage. The convenience of being able to motor
through the doldrums and not be becalmed for
days or weeks is one such instance, as is the abil-
ity to power against a strong outflowing current
to enter a lagoon, which otherwise could not be
entered. Filling up one's fuel tanks before a wind-
less passage is part of good forward planning as
is choosing a port with good provisioning, refu-
elling and repair facilities for the start of long off-
shore passages.
An important element of advance planning· is
to be aware of official requirements in the coun-
tries to be visited and to know where one may need
visas, vaccinations, or cruising permits. Much of
this practical information is contained in the com-
p anion volume to this book, World Cruising
Handbook. In spite of sailing boats being able to visit
more countries than in the past, in many places
formalities have not been simplified. The captain
must be aware of specific requirements and the
location of the official ports of entry; ignorance of
local regulations will not be accepted as an
excuse. In Australia, for example, any foreign
national, except New Zealanders, arriving with-
out a visa will be heavily fined . So as part of for-
ward planning, one may have to plan a detour to
a country where there is a diplomatic mission issu-
ing the necessary visa. Choosing the right place,
ideally close to an international airport, is equal-
ly important when picking up or dropping off crew.
Just as important for long term cruisers is to plan

regular overhauls in places with good repair facil-
ities. My World Cruising Guide was written very
much with that objective in mind.
These are some of the factors that can influence
planning, both in the short and long term.
However, what is needed at all times, and espe-
cially once a cruise has started, is a good dose of
commonsense, which will help solve most prob-
lems. Nowhere is this more true than in the realm
of navigation, particularly in view of the current
reliance on GPS navigation. For example, if one
is not too sure about the position of a certain reef,
island, or any other danger, it is generally safer
to assume that the latitude stated is more accurate
than the longitude. The coordinates of most of
these dang~rs were fixed by navigators before the
advent of precise modern instruments, and many
charts of remote areas have yet to be corrected.
This is why it is still perfectly valid to use the prac-
tice of the masters of the sailing ships, who always
tried to 'run down' the latitude of a given place,
ROUTE PLANNING
so as to maximise the chances of find ing it. On
the other hand, if one wishes to avoid a certain dan-
ger, the main thing to avoid is its latitude. As many
ocean passages along the popular cruising routes
are from east to west, this means that it should not
be too difficult to choose a safe latitude and stay
on it when approaching a known danger.
The influence that such commonsense can have
on good seamanship is illustrated by examples in
my previous survey books, and one conclusion I
drew after talking to a great number of experienced
sailors was that one of the most important qual-
ities to have while sailing is patience. A little
humility and respect for the powers of nature are
undoubtedly just as important and this is prob-
ably the explanation why superstitious sailors pre-
fer to say that they are 'bound for' their
destination. Many things can happen to stop a &hip
from reaching its desired destination and careful
planning has a major part to play in bringing a ship
safely home.
7
 2
PRINCIPAL WORLD
CRUISING ROUTES
P lanning an offshore voyage is not a simple !llat-
ter because many factors have to be taken into
consideration. The most important factor to be con-
sidered is the safety of the vessel and its crew, there-
fore it is crucial to ensure that the route will avoid
areas of known dangers and also that as much as
possible of the sailing will be done during
favourable seasons. A large proportion of the cruis-
ing routes described in this book are in the trop-
ics, which is where world voyagers spend much
of their time. However, many tropical areas are
only safe for six or seven months of the year, the
remaining months being liable to tropical storms.
In the following pages I shall 'try to give some
examples of typical world cruises that can be done
with maximum safety. The various circumnavi-
gations describecj are al) westabout to take max-
imum advantage of the prevailing wind systems
and to sail as much as possible under trade wind
conditions. Because much of the time will be spent
in the tropics, the proposed timing will avoid those
areas during the tropical storm seasons. The major-
ity of small boat voyages around the world follow
the trade w ind routes and the number of cruising
boats trying 'to accomplish a circumnavigation
against the prevailing winds is so small as not to
merit a separate example. Similarly, the following
examples all pass through the South Pacific, which
continues to be the main attraction for virtually
any sailor setting off on a cruise around the world.
Routes A to G on the following pages are shown
on the endpaper map.
Voyage A: Two year
circumnavigation from Europe
The shortest time in which a cruise around the
w orld can be accomplished in a small sailing boat
8
;
is probably twp years. By precise timing and care-
ful choice of favourable seasons, the two
EUROPA Round the World Rallies, in 1991-2 and
1994-5, accomplished a circumnavigation in 16
months. However, these are competitive events and
the sailors taking part in them were prepared to
move at a relatively fast pace. The two year exam-
ple is still valid for anyone ·planning to cruise alone.
If the point of departure is Scandinavia, Britain,
or Northern Europe, the recommended time for
leaving would be early summer when optimum
conditions can be expected in the North Sea,
English Channel, and across the Bay of Biscay.
Departures from Mediterranean ports and
Gibraltar can be left as late as October. This is also
the time when boats should be on their way to the
Canaries, whether sailing direct or via Madeira.
The earliest time for an Atlantic crossing along
the NE trade w ind route is after the middle of
November, as such a depar ture ensures that
landfall is made in one of the Caribbean islands
before Christmas at the beginning of the safe cruis-
ing season. However, the chances of finding bet-
ter winc!s are higher later in winter and some of
the fastest passages have been recorded between
January and March. Columbus himself left the
Canaries in September and had stead y trade winds
almost all the way across. That first Atlantic cross-
ing along the trade wind route was undertaken at
the height of the hurricane season, when su ch a
passage should not even be considered.
After one or two months in the Eastern
Caribbean, the Panama Canal should be transit-
ed in February or early March. This avoids arriv-
ing in the Marquesas before the end of March when
the islands of French Polynesia are still subject to
tropical cyclones. Because of the limited time avail-
able, Tahiti should be left· in early June so as to

arrive in Fiji by July. As these are the months when
the SE trades are at their most constant, these long
passages can usually be made at good speeds.
Passages from Fiji onwards should be timed to pass
through the Torres Strait before the end of August
or early in September if taking the Cape of Good
Hope route.
The passage across the South Indian Ocean will
have to be made in a similar rhythm, with long
periods at sea and little tiine to spend in the islands
en route. The start of the cyclone season in
December indicates a departure from Mauritius
for the passage to South Africa not later than the
end of October. The next leg to Cape Town is best
made in January or February, when conditions
around the tip of Africa are considered to be the
mGlst favourable.
Those planning to return to the Mediterranean
via the Red Sea have the choice of either calling
at Bali and carrying on to Singapore, or making
their way to Sri Lanka via Christmas Island . A
cruising permit is required for those wishing to
pass through Indonesia, which probably dictates
the choice of route. The advantage of a passage
across the North Indian Ocean is that this can be
done in January or February, which allows longer
time to be spent earlier in the Pacific, negotiating
the Torres Strait only in September or even early
October. The end of the year will see the boat some-
where in SE Asia preparing for a winter crossing
of the North Indian Ocean, when the NE monsoon
normally provides excellent sailing conditions in
the first months of the year. The subsequent pas-
sage through the Red Sea and the transiting of the
Suez Canal in March or April will allow the boat
to complete its circumnaviga tion approximately
two years after leaving Europe.
Those returning via the Cape of Good Hope can
sail to the Azores, either directly or possibly via
Brazil, although the latter may add too much time
to the return journey. An arrival in the Azores in
April or May would enable a return to the point
of departure exactly two years after leaving
home.
However, there are so many temptations on the
way that often such quick voyages end up by
stretching into three and even four years. My first
circumnavigation on Aventura took all of six years,
so it is rather ironic that I should be promoting an
event which attempts to encompass the world in
less than one quarter of that time. Unfortunately
not everyone has that kind of time for a circum-
PRIN CIPAL WORLD CRUISING ROUTES
navigation, nor does everyone wish to be away
from home for so long, which is probably one of
the reasons for the EUROPA Round the World
Rally' s ongoing success.
The only purpose of this hypothetical example
is to show how it is possible to plan a two year cir-
cumnavigation so as to be always in the right place
at the right time. Indeed, the points made above
were put to good use when planning the itiner-
ary of the first Round the World Rally, some of
which 1 sailed in La Aventura. The timing of the
first event was so successful that the route of the
second one remained almost unchanged. The
EUROPA Round the World Rally has now become
a regular event to be run every three years, the next
one being due to start in January 1997.
Voyage B: Two year
circumnavigation from the
east coast of North America
For boats leaving on a two year circumnavigation
from the east coast of North America and planning
to start their voyage at the beginning of winter, the
timing of departure is crucial. If some time is to
be spent in the Lesser Antilles, an attempt should
be made to leave by the first week of November
sailing directly to the Virgin Islands or one of the
islands in the Eastern Caribbean. The schedule is
more relaxed if the departure is planned for the
end of spring or early summer. In this case boats
normally sail to the Eastern Caribbean via
Bermqda in May or June and then make their way
south in order to spend the summer in an area with
a low risk of hurricanes, .such as Venezuela,
Colombia, or Panama.
For those leaving later in the year and planning
to sail straight to Panama, there are two alterna-
tives: either to go via the Bahamas and the
Windward Passage or through the Intracoastal
Waterway to Florida and thence to Panama. Boats
leaving from Florida can leave later in winter and
make their way to Panama eastabout or westabout
Cuba, either of which is feasible. Those who leave
in November and take the longer. route via the
Eastern Caribbean arrive at the beginning of win-
ter and thus have at least two months to cruise the
islands of the Lesser Antilles before sailing to
Panama. Whichever route is sailed to Panama, the
Canal should be transited in February or early
March. This avoids arriving in the Marquesas
9
 PRINCIPAL WORLD CRUISING ROUTllS
before the end of the cyclone season (December to
end of March). From Tahiti onwards, the timing
is similar to the one described in the previous exam-
ple. The Society Islands should be left not later than
June so as to arrive in Fiji by July. From Fiji
onwards, the passages should be timed to pass
through the Torres Strait before the end of August
or early in September.
The South Indian Ocean will be crossed in a sim-
ilar rhythm, with long periods at sea and not much
time to spend in the islands en route. The start of
the cyclone season in December indicates a
departure from Mauritius for the passage to South
Africa not later than the end of October. The tip
of Africa should be weathered in January or
February, when conditions in those stormy
waters are usually the most favourable. From South
Africa boats normally sail to Brazil and thence to
the Lesser Antilles. An arrival in the Eastern
Caribbean in the spring would enable a return to
the point of departure less than two years after
leaving home.
A return to America via the North Indian Ocean,
the Red Sea, and Mediterranean will certainly make
the voyage considerably longer. It is an alterna-
tive favoured by many North American sailors who
wish to avoid sailing around the Cape of Good
Hope. Such an alternative has the attraction of see-
ing some of SE Asia before the North Indian Ocean
is crossed during the NE monsoon of winter. The
Red Sea is transited in late winter and the
Mediterranean is reached by March. On leaving
the Mediterranean, one can either sail home direct-
ly, via the Azores and possibly Bermuda, which
is best done early in the summer, or take the longer
route across the Atlantic via the Canaries, which
should not be done before the middle of
November.
Voyage C: Three year
circumnavigation from Europe or
the east coast of North America
The two year circumnavigations described above
can be made much more enjoyable if more time
is available. Although the additional mileage cov-
ered during a three year long circumnavigation
would only amount to about 4000 miles, the extra
year allows more time to be spent in places en route
. and makes the entire voyage more enjoyable.
The first part of the voyage either from Europe
10
or North America would be similar to th"at
described in the previous examples. A little more
time can.be spent in the Caribbean, but the Panama
Canal should be transited in March so as to arrive
in the Marquesas before the end of April. The fol-
lowing three months can be spent in French
Polynesia, allowing one to be there fpr the unique
14 July celebrations. Leaving the S'ociety Islands
before the end of July makes it possible to spend
some time in all the island groups en route to Fiji.
Because of the approaching cyclone season (late
November to March), a decision must be made
whether to spend this in Tonga (Vava'u),
American Samoa (Pago Pago), New Zealand, or
nontropical Australia. Although a number of boats
hole up in one of the first two places, these anchor~
ages are in the cyclone area and the vast majori-
ty of those cruising the South Pacific make their
way to New Zealand, which is outside the
cyclone belt..A stay in Fiji is not recommended as
the number of safe anchorages is small and they
fill up quickly in an emergency.
The passage from Fiji to New Zealand is nor-
mally undertaken in November. Most boats
spend the entire cyclone season in New Zealand
and leave for the Torres Strait and Indian Ocean
early in April. Such a departure allows them to visit
some of the island groups bordering on the Coral
Sea before reaching the Indian Ocean. Another
alternative is to sail across the Tasman Sea from
New Zealand to Australia in February or March
and then sail up the east coast of Australia towards
the Torres Strait. An earlier arrival in the Indian
Ocean allows more time to be spent en route,
whether in Darwin or Indonesia, if a cruising per-
mit has been obtained beforehand. The rest of the
voyage is the same as that described in Voyages
Aand B.
Voyage D: Three year
circumnavigation from the west
coast of North America
If a circumnavigation is planned from the west
coast of North America, either California or the
Pacific Northwest including British Columbia, at
least three years should be allowed. The pr,mary
destination for almost all of those who undertake
this voyage is Tahiti, which can be reached either
via Hawaii or the Marquesas. A few boats include
the Galapa gos Islands on their itinerary and

although permission to stop there is not given auto-
matically, few boats are actually turned away and
most are allowed to spend a few days there. For
those taking the Hawaiian route, time of depar-
ture is less crucial, while a late March or early April
departure is recommended for those intending to
sail direct!y to the Marquesas.
Those making an early departure and arriving
in French Polynesia in April or May will be able
to follow a similar schedule as that described in
Voyages A and B. Later departures will not reach
Tahiti before July or August, which means that one
will not have much time left to spend in the trop-
ics before sailing to a safe place for the coming
cyclone season (December to March). The author-
ities no longer allow boats to remain in French
Polynesia durfng the cyclorie season. This certainly
applies to those who leave California in late
November and sail direct to the Marquesas, as a
number of boats have done in recent years.
Although the islands of French Polynesia are not
visited by cyclones every year one should not be
lulled into a false sense of security, as over the years
several boats have been lost in cyclones which have
struck Eastern Polynesia. One way to avoid
spending the cyclone season in French Polynesia
is to leave California in November and spend the
winter either in Hawaii, Mexico, or Central
_America. The voyage to the Marquesas or Tahiti
can then be made the following March, allowing
one to arrive there at the start of the safe season.
The rest of the South Pacific cruise could follow
the schedule described in either example A or B.
Those who are in a hurry to return home in the
shortest time possible should follow the previously
suggested timetable across the South Indian
Ocean so as to arrive in Cape Town by Christmas.
This would allow them to arrive in the Lesser
Antilles by February and in Panama by March or
April. Once through the Panama Canal the choice
is between a dash along the coast of Central
America and Mexico, if one can rely on a power-
ful engine, or a detour to Hawaii in the hope of
finding favourable winds for the return voyage.
The timing of one's arrival in Panama is crucial if
one is planning to sail to California along the coast,
because Cabo San Lucas should be cleared before
the onset of the hurricane season in June.
Because of this tight scheduling and other con-
siderations, many west coast sailors are put off by
\he South African route and choose the Red Sea
route instead. As described in Voyage A, the pas-
PRINCIPAL WORLD CR UISING RO UTES -
sage across the North Indian Ocean can be done
as late as February or even March, which allows
a more relaxed pace earlier on. But the main attrac-
tion of this alternative route is the chance to spend
some time in the Mediterranean. Arriving there
through the Suez Canal in April one has about six
summer months to sail to Gibraltar and visit inter-
esting places on the way. The passage from
Gibraltar to the Canaries can be done in October
and the subsequent crossing of the Atlantic will
also take place at a good time. Having arrived in
the Eastern Caribbean before Christmas, the voy-
age to Panama and beyon_d can be undertaken in
a more leisurely fashion than if one had arrived
there straight from South Africa. With more time
in hand even the difficulty of the return passage
along the Pacific coast of Central America can be
faced with more detachment.
Voyage E: A round Pacific voyage
Probably the greatest disadvantage of the Pacific
Ocean from a cruising point of view is that it does
not lend itself to a logical circumnavigation, a fact
recognised as early as the sixteenth century by the
Spanish navigators. Today' s voyagers are faced
with almost the same dilemma, but at least the
improved windward going capability of their craft
makes the problem somewhat easier.
The departure point for the suggested Pacific cir-
cumnavigation can be either the west coast of
North America, which is covered in Voyage D, or
Panama, which is described in Voyage A. Because
the South Pacific and its myriad islands continue
to be the principal attraction of a Pacific cruise, the
return voyage to the west coast of Nor th America
will be considered from somewhere in the
Southwest Pacific, New Zealand being the most
likely place for the start of such a voyage. The most
logical return itinerary is via Tahiti with the help
of westerly winds found below latitude 35 'S. This
return voyage to Tahiti is best made at the end of
the cyclone season, in April or May, before the onset
of the southern winter. If a prompt departure is
made from New Zealand, there is sufficient time
to reach the west coast of N'orth America via
Hawaii long before winter also arrives in the north-
ern hemisphere. Such a return trip to Tahiti allows
those who had sailed quickly through these
islands on their outward voyage to see more of
French Polynesia the second time around. The
other alternative is to sail from New Zealand to
11
PRINCIPAL WORLD CRUISING ROUTES
Hawaii via the Cook Islands by following the same
time schedule.
For those who are determined to complete a cir-
cumnavigation of the Pacific, there is always the
possibility of continuing a South Pacific cruise to
the Far East. This is best accomplished by sailing
from the Solomon Islands or Papua New Guinea
to Guam and thence to Japan, with a possible
detour to the Philippines and Hong Kong. The voy-
age can then be continued via the Aleutian
Islands to Alaska, British Columbia, and beyond.
Such an itinerary requires careful planning, so as
to sail among the islands of the Far East at the most
favourable time, but such a northern sweep can
be accomplished although it will take longer than
the return route via Tahiti and Hawaii.
Other itineraries for a return to the west coast
have also been tried out, although far less suc-
cessfully, because of the high proportion of head
winds encountered on the way to Hawaii, par-
ticularly in the case of voyages starting from
Micronesia. Many of these attempts had to be aban-
doned and those who managed to complete them
vowed never to make such an error of judgement
again. This is why the importance of properly plan-
ning a return voyage to the west coast cannot be
emphasised strongly enough and the various alter-
natives outlined in these examples should be con-
sidered carefully, preferably before leaving home.
Voyage F: A round Atlantic voyage
from Europe
Compared to the Pacific Ocean, a circumnaviga-
tion of the North Atlantic is much easier to accom-
plish and it is in fact a voyage under taken every
year by a large number of European sailors, who
have time for only a one year offshore cruise or who
complete the circle in various stages over several
years returning home in between. Christopher
Columbus was the first sailor to accomplish such
a n Atlantic circumnavigation and the following
itinerary is largely based on his own voyage of
1492- 3. The only significant change is the timing,
as on his first transatlantic voyage Columbus sailed
west durin g the hurricane season of summer and
returned home too early in winter.
A late sprfog or summer start is recommended
for those leaving from Northern or Western
Europe, so as to cross the Bay of Biscay before the
middle C)f A u gust. Such timing a llows some time
12
to be spent cruising the coasts of the Iberian penin-
sula before heading for the Canary Islands, either
· direct or via Madeira. The crossing of the Atlantic
can be made in November or early Decem,ber along
the trade wind route, arriving in the Caribbean
before the end of the year. The next four months
can be spent cruising the islands °} the Eastern
Caribbean, preferably from south,to north, so as
not to cover the same ground t~ice. The return
voyage to Europe should start in April or early May
and usually· includes a stopover in Bermuda,
although a few people sail directly to the Azores.
The Azores. provide a convenient springboard in
mid-Atlantic for a return passage to reach the home
port in either Northern Europe or the
Mediterranean a lmost one year after leaving. In
fact the Atlantic circle can be accomplished in as
little as eight months, especially if the point of
departure is in Southern Europe. In such -:i case one
can leave for the Canaries as late as October, cross
the Atlantic in the second half of November, and
return from the Caribbean the following April.
Such timing is followed successfully every year
by many boats taking part in the ARC, who incor-
porate this annual transatlantic event from Gran
Canaria to St Lucia into their plans.
A major attraction of such an Atlantic circle for
those who cannot take off all the necessary time
in one block is the fact that the voyage can be bro-
ken up into several stages. The first stage is to sail
the boat to a southern port at the beginning of sum-
mer. The boat can be left in a marina while the crew
returns home by air. This stage can be extended
to go as far as the Canaries, which ideally should
be reached by August or early September. There
are many excellent marinas in the Canaries where
a boat can be left in safety and there are also fre-
quent flights to all parts of Europe. If the boat is
left for a while in Southern Europe, perhaps in
Gibraltar or Vilamoura, the passage to the
Canaries should not be left too late as every year
boats miss the start of the ARC because of bad
weather encountered on the way to the Canaries
in late October or early November. Indeed there
is no good reason to leave this section of the voy-
age to so late in the season.
Once the boat has reached the Caribbean in time
for the Christmas holidays, those w ho have to
return home temporarily can do so by leaving the
boat in a safe marina, such as Rodney Bay in St
Lucia, the finishing point of the ARC. There are
frequent flights to Europe from St Lucia,

Martinique, Guadaloupe, Antigua, and Barbados,
all of which are convenient places for crew
changes. At the completion of the Caribbean cruise,
the return passage to Europe must be contem-
plated. This can be done nonstop to the Azores or
via Bermuda. If necessary, the trip can be broken
in the Azores where the boat can be left in one of
two excellent marinas, either in Horta or Ponta
Delgada, both of which have direct flights to
Lisbon. From the Azores, the sail back home can
be done a t any time during the summer.
Voyage G: A round Atlantic
voyage from North America
A similar circumnavigation of the North Atlantic can
also be undertaken from the east coast of either the
USA'or Canada. The best time for leaving is also late
spring or early ·summer when Europe can be
reached either direct or via the Azores. Such timing
does not allow too much time to be spent in the more
northern parts of Europe as one has to head south
before the onset of the autumn gales. However, time
can be .spent in Portugal, Spain, Gibraltar, or
N!adeira before joining the other boats preparing the
cross to the Caribbean from the Canaries. As
described in the previous example, the Atlantic cir-
cle can be interrupted at several points should one
need to return home for any length of time. The
Azores provide a convenient stopover with two good
marinas where a boat can be left in total safety and
in summer there are direct flights to Boston from the
isla~d of Terceira. There are similar places where the
voyage can be interrupted in both the Canaries and
Caribbean, as mentioned earlier.
The return voyage from the Caribbean to ports
on the east coast of North America offers far more
choices than those available to European sailors.
The quickest way is to sail directly to the east coast
at the end of winter (April), either from the Virgins
or one of the Lesser Antilles and to make landfall
in one of the ports south of Cape Hatteras.
Alternatively one can sail to Bermuda from
where it might be easier to reach ports lying fur-
ther north. Yet another possibility is to sail to
Florida via the Bahamas and return home
through the Intracoastal Waterway.
An extended Atlantic circumnavigation has
taken shape in recent years with an increasing num-
ber of boats sailing from the Canary Islands to
Brazil, either direct or via the Cape Verde Islands
a nd West Africa. Such a detour usually adds anoth-
PRINCIPAL WORLD CRUISI NG ROUTES
er year to the voyage, which from Brazil continues
along the coast of.South America to the Caribbean
where it rejoins one of the routes mentioned above.
Rallies and races
Just as the wise navigator plans on being in the
right place at the right time, so the organisers of
various sailing events are timing their events to
take place at a time when they can expect to attract
the maximum number of cruising boats. The per-
fect example is the highly successful Antigua
Sailing Week, which starts on the last weekend in
April at the end of the sailing season in the
Caribbean. For nearly three d ecad es hundreds of
yachts have congregated in Antigua at this time
of year for one week of racing, and a lot of fun
besides, before setting off for either Europe or
North America.
Races such as the Antigua Sailing Week are now
being held regularly in all the popular cruising
areas or along the major cruising routes. Also in
the Caribbean, the Heineken Regatta is held in St
Maarten at the beginning of March every year.
Across the world, in Thailand, the annual King's
Cup Regatta is held in Phuket at the beginning of
December at a time when scores of cruising yachts
are congregating there waiting for the northeast
monsoon to blow them across the North Indian
Ocean. The King's Cup is preceded b y the Raja
Muda Cup, a cruising rally along the coast of
Malaysia timed to bring the boats to Phuket in time
for the King's Cup Regatta. The Raja Muda Cup
caters mainly for cruising boats on a world voy-
age and there are now several events aimed at this
floating community. One of the oldest establishecj
is the Darwin to Ambon Race, starting in July from
the capital of Australia's Northern Territory. The
main attraction of this annual event is that boats
taking part in it automatically obtain. the com-
pulsory cruising permit for Indonesia. Many of the
participants in the Darwin to Ambon Race will
have taken part earlier in two similar events staged
in the South Pacific. The annual South Pacific
. Regatta sets off from Auckland in May and is joined
by boats which have spent the cyclone season in
New Zealand and are returning to the tropical
South Pacific as well as Antipodean sailors at the
beginning of their cruises. Later in the season, the
Musket Cove to Vila Race is joined by boats sail-
ing from "Fiji to Vanuatu.
There are many more examples of such events
13
PRINCIPAL WORLD CRUISING RO UTES
which are joined by cruising boats to reach a par-
ticular popular cruising destination. The various
races from Newport, Rhode Island, to Bermuda are
often joined by boats on their way to the
Caribbean or Europe. Similarly, the Caribbean 1500
Rally is aimed squarely at North American boats
sailing in November from the Chesapeake Bay area
to the Virgin Islands. The inspiration for this event
was the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers), which
has been attracting over one hundred boats every
year since it was launched in 1986. The ARC leaves
the Canaries at the end of November and is joined
by boats planning to reach the Caribbean before
Christmas. The concept of the ARC was applied
successfully to the first Round the World Rally,
14
EUROPA 92, which took place in 1991-2.
Following the success of that first rally the event
is now held every three years.
When planning a voyage it may be wqrth keep-
ing in mind some of the above events, "1hether to
enjoy a week of racing in a particularly beautiful
area or take advantage of the safety in numbers
as well as the competitive spirit ot-~uch offshore
events. Just as attractive can be the help one gets
in dealing with local au thorities when arriving in
some countries as part of such an international
event. Keeping track of when and where such
events take place can be useful both for those
intending to join and to those determined to avoid
the crowds!
 3
WINDS AND CURRENTS
OF THE WORLD
ver since man first ventured offshore in·craft
E powered by the wind, he has looked for pat-
terns in the.wind's behaviour. Such observations
may.have led the.early fishermen to use an offshore
breeze to take their canoes to favourite fishing spots
in the morning and the onshore breeze to waft them
home later in the day. These patterns are still used
in some parts of the world where fishermen con-
tinue to use sailing craft as their forefathers have
d on e over countless generations. Discovering a
similar regularity for offshore voyaging was
more difficult and some remote places in the world
might have remained unpopulated until much later
if early voyagers had been able to find a
favourable wind to return hom.e. The fact that there
was a regular pattern to the winds was already
recogn ised in ancient times and seasonal sailing
routes were a .common feature in the ancient world.
The Chinese established such routes in the Far East,
the Greeks u sed them in the Aegean, the
Polynesian s were helped by them to colonise the
far flung islands of the Pacific, the Papuans are still
following the traditional Kula route with the help
of seasonal winds, while Arab traders used the
monsoons of the Indian Ocean to establish a reg-
ulat link between India and East Africa.
This reliance on favourable winds for most off-
shore voyages lasted until the last century, when
the greatly improved windward going capabilities
of sailing ships freed their masters of the shack-
les imposed by having to follow a route governed
by the wind alone. However, in spite of being able
to sail closer to the wind, neither d id the masters
of the old clippers nor do the skippers of modern
yachts enjoy battling against head winds, and most
would still make a detour to pick up a fair wind.
Even in a well designed yacht it is often wiser to
cover a longer distance wi th better winds than to
s tubbornly try to follow the direct route b etween
two points. This is the reason why it is so impor-
tant to understand the prevailing wind systems of
the world, w hich dictate most of the cruising routes
described in the following pages.
The importance of defining the p revailing
winds in certain areas of the world w as already
recognis~d by the Portuguese and Spanish navi-
gators of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and
their findings were kept a closely guarded secret
for a long time. The first transatlantic voyage by
Christopher Columbus showed his followers that
a detour to the sou th was the best route to the
newly discovered islands of the Caribbean,
whereas a northerly sweep was to be preferred for
the return voyage to Europe. Similarly in the
Pacific, Magellan and other early navigators
demonstrated that the voyage from east to west
across the South Pacific was a relatively easy mat-
ter if one stayed within the south easterly trades.
However, a return voyage against the same
trades proved impossible until finally the Spanish
navigator Urganeta d iscovered the westerly
winds of higher latitudes, which came to be called
the anti-trades or passage winds.
This worldwide wind pattern has thus been
known for a long time and countless navigators
have made use of this knowledge over the cen-
turies. In his Memoir of the Nort/1ern Atlantic Ocean,
published in its 13th edition in 1873, Alexander
George Findlay su ccinctly describes this wind pat-
tern in the following words:
'It has been .well observed that the wind systems of our
globe naturally govern the tracks of ships crossing the
oceans, the trade winds carrying them from East to West
wit/tin the tropics, while anti-trade or passage winds
Continued on page 24
15
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD PRE VAILING WI N D SYSTEMS JAN UARY TO MARCH

---7 -----i --~

___ ~STERLIES. ~ . _ -?>
---7 ____ ., ~ --~

2. · PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS JANUARY TO MARCH ,#-

16 _u{( 17
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS APRIL TO JUNE

18
3. PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS APRIL TO JUNE

i( 19
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD
PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS JULY TO SEPTEMBER

4. PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS JULY TO SEPTEMBER

20
21
WINDS AND CURRcNTS OF THE WORLD PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS OC TOBER TO DECE MBER

. .. . •::- .... _,.,,,·'---;l/"

WESTERLIES

I• ,.
'
. ;

5. PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS OCTOBER TO DECEMBER

22 ' 23
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD
will bring them back again eastward beyond the trop-
ics. If it were not for the intervening belt of calms, sail-
ing directions for vessels going into opposite hemispheres
would be of the simplest kind; but the well-known
Equatorial embarrassments - "the doldrums" - general-
ly make a ven; different matter of it, and cause many con-
siderations to enter into the problem of shaping a course.'
The three main factors that influence the formation
and direction of the wind are atmospheric pressure,
air temperature, and the rotation of the earth. The
primary cause of wind is a difference of tempera-
ture. This in its turn leads to a difference in a tmos-
pheric pressure mainly because of the tendency of
warm air to rise, which is then replaced by cold air
drawn from elsewhere. Air also tends to flow from
an area of high pressure to one of low pressure.
Permanent areas of high pressure are situated
between approximately the latitudes of 20' and 40',
both north and south of the equator. On eitJ1er side
of these cells of high pressure there are areas of low
pressure. If it were not for the rotation of the earth,
the wind direction would be either north or south,
from an area of high pressure to one of low pres-
sure, but because the earth is rotating on its axis in
an easterly direction, air which is drawn towards
a centre of low pressure is deflected to the right in
the northern hemisphere and to the left in the south-
ern one. The result of this movement in the north-
ern hemisj',.here is the anti-clockwise circulation of
wind around a low pressure area and the clockwise
rotation of wind around a high pressure area. The
opposite is the case in the .southern hemisphere,
where the wind circulates in a clockwise direction
around a low pressure area and in an anti-clock-
wise direction around a high pressure area.
Diagrams 2 to 5 show the way in which winds
on the equatorial side of the high pressure belts
blow towards the equator from a NE direction in
the northern hemisphere and from a SE direction
in the southern hemisphere. North and south of
those areas of high pressure the winds in both
hemispheres are predominantly westerly.
In many areas these systems are distorted by
land masses, which are subjected to more pro-
nounced differences of temperature and barometric
pressure than the oceans. The wind systems are
also affected by the seasons, since the annual move-
ment of the sun causes the areas of high pressure
to move towards the poles in the summer.
Because of this movement, the wind systems asso-
ciated with these l\reas of high p ressure, particu-
24
larly the trade winds, tend to travel a few degrees
south or north with the sun.
Trade winds
J
These steady winds which blow on either side of
the equatorial doldrums were so called because of
the assistance they gave to the trade oj sailing ships.
The early Spanish navigators gave"fl1em the more
romantic sounding name of alisi~s. These regular
winds are usually NE in the northern hemisphere
and SE in the southern hemisphere. They rarely
reach gale force and on average blow at force 4 to
5. The weather associated with the trade winds is
usually pleasant, with blue skies and fluffy cumu-
lus clouds. The barometric pressure within the trade
wind belt is steady, interrupted only by a pressure
wave, which causes a slight rise and fall of the
barometer every 12 hours. If the diurnal movement
of the barometer ceases, or if it is very pronounced,
a tropical disturbance can be expected . The entire
trade wind belt, including the doldrum zone that
lies between the two systems, moves north and
south during the year. This movement is influenced
by the movement of the sun, although there can
be a delay of up to two months between the move-
ment of the sun itself and that of the doldrums. The
trade winds are less steady in the vicinity of. the
Intertropical Convergence Zone.
lntertropical Convergence Zone
This area ~f low barometric pressure lying
between the trade wind regions of the two hemi-
spheres is known as the lntertropical Convergence
Zone (ITCZ), the equatorial trough, or more com-
monly as the doldrums. The winds in this area are
either light or nonexistent and the weather is sul-
try and hot. The only interruptions are occasion-
al squalls and thunderstorms, when rain can be
very heavy. The extent of the doldrums varies
greatly from year to year and season to season.
Although the doldrums have earned their bad rep-
utation because of the frequent calms that could
delay ships for days on end, doldrum weather can
som etimes be particularly unpleasant, with vio-
lent squalls and raging thunderstorms. Weather
in the doldrums tends to be worse when the trade
winds blow al their str~ngest.
Variable winds
A zone of light and variable winds extends on the

polar sides of the trade winds, corresponding more
or less with the high pressure areas of the two
hemispheres, between latitudes 25 ' and 35 '
approximately. These zones were given the name
of Horse Latitudes, because sai.ling ships that were
becalmed in these areas were sometimes forced to
kill the animals on board due to the Jack of d rink-
ing water.
Westerly winds
The higher latitudes of both hemispheres have a
large proportion of westerly winds, which prevail
north and sou th of latitude 35 •. Westerly winds are
stronger and more predominant in the southern
ocean, where they often blow with gale force from
the same direction for several days. Because of the
more extensive land masses in the northern
hemisphere, the westerlies of the northern oceans
are lighter and I·ess consistent.
Monsoons
Seasonal winds are experienced in several areas
of the world, the name monsoon deriving from the
Arabic word meaning 'season'. Such winds blow
consistently from one direction for one season and
after a short interruption blow with equal con-
sistency from the opposite direction. The most
important regions affected by such seasonal
winds are the Indian Ocean and West Pacific Ocean.
Depressions
A depression is an area of low barometric pressure,
which is usually responsible for periods of unset-
tled weather, although not all depressions are
accompanied by strong winds. Depressions occur
most frequently in middle and higher latitudes,
although the most severe storms encountered at
sea are those formed in the low latitudes and of
a revolving nature, discussed in the next section.
As stilted earlier, winds in the northern hemi-
sphere blow around low pressure areas in an
anti-clockwise direction, while in the southern
hemisphere the direction is clockwise. Most
depressions move in an easterly direction, a few
moving in other directions at times. The speed at
which they move can vary from very little to 40
knots or more. Usually depressions last about four
to five days and their movement gradually slows
down as they fill and the pressure rises.
The strength of the wind generated by a depres-
WINDS AND C UR RENTS OF THE WORLD
sion is dictated by the closeness of the isobars,
which can be seen on a synoptic chart as lines join-
ing areas of equal barometric pressure. The clos-
er the isobars lie together the stronger the wind.
The approach of a depression is always indicated
by a falling barometer and usually by a change in
the aspect of the sky and cloud formation. It may
be worthwhile studying this aspect of meteorolo-
gy, so as to be able to predict the kind of wind and
weather to expect both on passage and in port.
Tropical squalls
This is a common phenomenon encountered in the
tropics, especially below latitude 20'. These lin-
ear disturbances travel from east to west at 20-25
knots and are usually perpendicular to the direc-
tion of the prevailing wind. They are accompanied
by thundery and squally weather. The first indi-
cation of an approaching line squall is a heavy band
of cumulo-nimbus to the east. The wind is usual-
ly light or calm and the atmosphere oppressive.
As the cloud approaches it becomes dark and men-
acing with occasional thunder and lightning. The
bottom of the cloud has the appearance of a straight
line but it sometimes changes to an arch as it pass- .
es overhead. Suddenly there is a blast of wind from
an easterly direction, which on average rises to 25
- 30 knots, although occasionally it can be much
stronger. Shortly after the blast of wind, it starts
to rain heavily. Such squalls last on average about
half an hour, although sometimes they may last
longer. The barometer does not indicate their
approach, therefore they can only be detected visu-
ally, although they also show up on radar. As some
of these squalls can be quite vicious, it is prudent
in squall prone areas to reduce sail at night, w hen
their approach is more difficult to detect. In the
North Atlantic, line squalls occur especially at the
beginning and end of the rainy season (May to
October) and are particularly violent near the
African coast. In the South Pacific squalls can occur
at all times, although as a rule they are not as vio-
lent as the North Atlantic variety. Line squalls are
less of a problem during the NE monsoon of the
North Indian Ocean, but can be violent during the
opposite SW monsoon.
Tornadoes
Tornadoes and waterspouts occur in the same areas
and during the same season as tropical storms.
25
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WOR LD

..... •::_ ......·' '. -·

'o

. ..
~: .
- __ :;.-- ';

..

6. WORLD DISTRIBUTIQN OF TROPICAL STORMS

~--
 WORLD
. D ISTRIBUTION OF TROPICA1- STORMS

... ... ,
\
\

,... .,..-- ''

I
'
''
''
' ....... .... __

---~
..\ ,

· ~·:;,/... ...

27
WINDS AND CURR BNTS OF THE WORLD
They usually travel in the same direction as the
prevailing wind and their approach can normal-
ly be seen, especially as they rarely form at night.
The wind generated by a tornado can be extreme-
ly violent, but as the actual area covered is very
small, the likelihood of being hit by such a whirl-
wind at sea is quite remote. Waterspouts sometimes
occur during afternoon thunderstorms in the vicin-
ity of the coast, the ocean side of Chesapeake Bay
being particularly vulnerable during the summer
months.
Tsunamis
These are large waves caused by an earthquake
which can occur thousands of miles from the place
where the destructive effects of the gigantic
wave will be felt. Tsunamis occur mostly in the
Pacific Ocean, and ports both on the continent and
islands have been hit by tsunamis during the twen-
tieth century. There have been six destructive
tsunamis in Hawaii in the last 50 years. The most
recent major tsunami occurred in 1960 causing
great destruction in Hilo where over 60 people lost
their lives. Boats are better off at sea in deep water,
preferably over 100 fathoms, where the effect of
a tsunami will pass almost unnoticed.
Tropical revolving storms
Tropical ·revolving storms are the most violent
storms that can be encountered at sea and it is both
prudent and wise to try and avoid the areas and
seasons where such storms occur. The extremely
strong winds generated by these storms and the
huge seas they raise can easily overwhelm a small
boat. Depending on which part of the world they
occur in, these storms are known as hurricanes,
cyclones, typhoons, or willy-willies. They blow
around an area of low pressure, the rotation being
anti-clockwise in the northern hemisphere and
clockwise in the southern hemisphere. The wind
does not move around the centre in concentric cir-
cles but has a spiral movement, being sucked in
towards the core of the storm.
Usually these storms occur on the western sides
of the oceans, although they are also found in other
parts of the world. They usually form between lat-
itudes rand 15' on either side of the equator, but
there have been many instances when tropical
storms formed closer to the equator. The breed-
ing ground of tropical storms is the Intertropical
Convergence Zone, where the two opposing
trade wind systems converge. Under certain con-
ditions of barometric pressure, temperature, and
moisture, the resulting whirlpool of air created at
the point of convergence can develop in\~ a severe
trop!cal revolving storm. The most dangerous areas
affected by such storms are the western North
Atlantic from Grenada to Cape Hatt~ras, the west-
ern North Pacific from Guam to fa pan, the South
Pacific from the Marquesas to the Coral Sea, the
north and northwest coasts of Australia, the south-
west Indian Ocean, and the Bay of Bengal. In some
of these areas tropical storms occur several times
a year, while others are only hit about once every
ten years.
In addition to their circular motion, tropical
revolving storms also have a forward movement.
In the northern hemisphere the movement is ini-
tially WNW, storms recurving gradually to the N
and NE as they reach higher latitudes. In the south-
ern hemisphere the initial movement is WSW,
storms recurving to the SE as they approach lat-
itude 20'S. Sometimes a storm does not recurve
but continues in a WNW direction in the north-
ern hemisphere, or a WSW direction in the south-
ern hemisphere, until it hits the continental land-
mass where it gradually breaks up after causing
much d amage. Occasionally the storm meanders
erratically and its direction is often impossible to
predict with certainty. The speed at which a storm
is moving is normally about 10 knots in the early
stages and accelerates after recurving.
Any boat lying in the path of a storm, particu-
larly its centre, will be in serious danger. The wind
remains constant in direction until the eye has
passed, then, after a brief calm, the wind returns
from the opposite direction, possibly with greater
violence, creating rough and confused seas or
putting vessels at anchor on a dangerous lee shore.
Every storm has two sides, or semicircles, known
as the navigable semicircle and the dangerous
semicircle. In the northern hemisphere, the dan-
gerous semicircle is the half of the storm lying ·on
the right hand side of the track in the direction in
which the storm is moving. In the southern hemi-
sphere, the dangerous semicircle is on the left.
The detection and tracking of tropical storms has
greatly improved since the advent of weather satel-
lites. Stations WWV in Fort Collins, Colorado and
WWVH in Kauai, Hawaii, broadcast hourly
reports of tropical s torms, their coordinates,
speed of movement and wind strength. Tropical

storm warning~ for the Atlantic Ocean are broad-
cast at 8 minutes past each hour by WWV on 2.5,
5, 10, 15, and 20 MHz. Warnings for the Pacific are
broadcast by WWVH at 48 minutes past the hour
on 2.5, 5, 10, 'a nd 15 MHz. From the.information
obtained from these stations it is possible to plot
the course of an approaching storm and take the
best avoiding action. The path of the storm in rela-
tion to the vessel's latest pos.ition wili show the
degree of danger. If one is at sea, the best course
of action is as follows :
Northern hemisphere
When facing the wind, the centre of the storm will
be between 90. and 135• on the right of the observ-
er. If the wind veers, i.e. shifts to the right, the boat
is in the right hand semicircle which is the dan-
gerous semicircle. A backing wind is associated
with the navigable semicircle. Ifthe direction of
the wind is constant, its strength increases and
the barometer falls, the boat is exactly in the path
of the storm. If the direction of the wind is not
changing, but its strength decreases while the
barometer slowly rises, the boat is directly
behind the centre.
The generally accepted tactic for vessels
caught in the path of a tropical storm is to run off
on the starboard tack by keeping the wind on the
starboard quarter. The same tactic should be
applied if the boat is in the navigable semicircle
when one should try and follow a course at right
angles to the assumed track of the storm.
Depending on the boat's behaviour in a quarter-
ing sea, one should try and either run under bare
poles or storm jib. If the boat is' in the dangerous
semitircle one should heave to on the starboard
tack or, if possible, sail close hauled on the same
tack, with the object of moving away from the
storm centre. · ·
Southern hemisphere
South of the equator, the centre of a tropical storm
is between 90 ·and 135 '. on the left of the observ-
er. If the wind is backing, the· boat is in the dan-
gerous semicircle; if it veers, the boat is in the
navigable semicircle. The vessel is directly in the
path of the storm if the wind is constant in direc-
tion. An increasing velocity combined with a falling
barometer means that the boat is in front of the
storm, a decreasing wind speed and a rising barom-
eter means that the observer is behind the centre.
The best tactic if one is directly in front of the
storm is to run with the wind on the port quarter.
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD
The same tactic should be applied if the boat is in
the navigable semicircle, by trying to run away
from the storm at right angles to its assumed track,
also with the wind on the port quarter. If the boat
is in the dangerous semicircle, one should try and
sail close hauled on the port tack so as to proceed
away from the storm centre. If this is not possi-
ble, the boat should heave to on the port tack.
Although these general rules are applicable in most
situations, there can be circumstances when they
should not be followed without question.
Tropical storm strategy depends on many factors,
such as the lack of sea room or the behaviour of
a particular boat when hove to in strong winds or
running before big quartering seas. Such consid-
erations will dictate a different approach to the
problem and there is unfortunately no fast rule that
can be applied at all times. There is no doubt that
the safest course of action is to avoid altogether
the areas where tropical storms are likely to occur.
Therefore the most important consideration when
drawing up plans for a voyage is to make sure that
the boat will not be in an area affected by tropi-
cal storms during the dangerous season. If one
plans to pass through an area which is never entire-
ly free from tropical storms, one should attempt
to sail during the months of lowest frequency. Such
a strategy is not too complicated to follow and
many boats have spent several years cruising in
the tropics without ever being in the wrong place
at the wrong time, simply by leaving the hurricane
zone during the dangerous season and returning
at the end of it. The directions given for various
cruising routes mention the hurricane prone
months, so that these can be avoided when plan-
ning a cruise along those routes.
Tropical storms are most frequent during the late
summer or early autumn in both hemispheres. The
safe season in the northern hemisphere is from
mid-November to mid-June, whereas the safe sea-
son for the southern hemisphere lasts from about
May until mid-November. The only tropical area
entirely free of hurricanes is the South Atlantic.
In the Western North Pacific no month is consid-
ered to be entirely safe, although typhoons are
extremely rare in winter: In the Coral Sea,
extraseasonal cyclones are not uncommon and
have been recorded as late as June and even July.
In the Arabian Sea cyclones do not occur in sum-
mer, but at the change of the monsoon, either in
May-June or in October-November. Diagram 6
29
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD

Run with wind on ,,,..,,,,..~

starboard quarter .....'\~~e .;
/ ~o I
=t / ~~
o / e.V
~~ /~e," Soil close hauled on
; 3 I,,,.,, · starboard tack at !]9~t
Run with wind on ~ g, / a.,0 angles to assumed
starboard quarter 3 track or heave to
on starboard tock

- ------,
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
<~
/~
/.~') .
/'>)"'')
,,...,,.,/
~---i- - - ______ .,,,.,,,,,.
Run at right angles Heave to on starboard tack
to assumed track

7. TROPICAL STORM 'fACTICS

NORTHERN HEMISPHERE
 TRO P I C AL STOR M TA CTI C S

Soil close hauled on port

g l>
o"'" en
en
..... c:
tock to·ossumed track or Run with wind on
en 3
heave to on port tock 0-~
c. port quarter
3

\
\
\
\
\
\
\\
IS'~
o~
~~
'tito-,................
Heave to on port tock -- _ _ _l.__ __

Run at right angles

to assumed track

8. TROPICA L STORM. TA CTICS

SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE

31
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD
shows the world distribution of tropical storms and
the months when they are most likely to occur.
It is not uncommon for tropical storl'.l'ls to
Prevailing winds
Prevailing weather conditions will be described
in greati:r detail when dealing with regional routes,
but it may be useful to summarise here the wind
patterns of the principal six areas of the world as
they appear on diagrams 2 to 5.
North Atla11tic: The NE trade winds blow rough"
lybetween latitudes2'N and 20"N to25'N·in win-
ter, between IO'N and 30"N in summer. In the
northern part of the ocean, the winds are pre-
dominantly W becoming SW near the North
American coast. Between the trade wind and west-
erly wind belts there is an area of variable winds.
South Atlantic: The SE trade winds cover a wide
belt roughly from the equator to 30"S during the
southern summer. They move north during win-
ter Uuly) when they are found between 3 'N to 5 "N
and 25'S. There are virtually no doldrums south
of the equator. Constant westerly winds are to be
found in higher latitudes, but they tend to
become NW and even N on the South American
side of the ocean, especially during summer.
North Pacific: During the summer months the NE
trade winds blow between latitudes 12'N and 30'N,
but move down to an area comprised between lat-
itudes 4 'Nor 5'N and 25 'Nin winter. Between lat-
itudes 35 'N and 55 'N the wirids are W or NW. The
doldrums are less well defined.
So11th Pacific: The SE trades are less constant and
reliable than in other oceans. At the height of win-
ter (June to August) they blow in a belt stretch-
ing approximately from 5 'N to 25 'S. During the
southern summer the trade winds are even less
constant and blow south of the equator as far as
latitude 30'S. Westerly winds blow consistently
south of 30 'S in winter and 40 'S in summer.
develop outside the official S!!asons and the early
part of the safe season should be treated with cau-
tion. World tropical storm seasons follows:
.I
I
North India11: The winds are dominated by the two
monsoons, NE in winter (November to March) and
SW in summer (May to September). The NE mon-
soon becomes well established in January and it
is most consistent until early March. The winds
are much stronger during the SW monsoon, at the
height of which in July and August ·they often blow
at over 30 knots.
South Indian: The SE trade winds extend from the
equator to latitude 25"S in winter (July). During
the southern summer (January), the SE trade winds
can be found.between about 10'5 and30'S, theNE
monsoon also makes itself felt south of the equa-
tor possibly as far as 10'5, but is deflected by the
rotation of the earth and becomes the NW mon-
soon. To the south of the SE trade wind belt there
is a zone of variable winds. T)1e higher latitudes
are known for their strong westerly winds.
Currents of the world
Currents occur at all depths of the oceans, but the
only ones of real interest to the small boat voyager
are the surface currents. Because the main cal!lse
of surface currents is the direction of the wind,
there is a close relationship between their direc-
tion and that of the prevailin·g wind. Constant
winds, such as the trade winds, create some of the
most constant currents, although these do not
always follow exactly the directionof the wind that
has generated them. As in the case of the winds,
the rotation of the earth has an effect on currents
too and therefore in the northern hemisphere cur-
rents tend to- flow to the right of the direction of
the wind, in the southe.r n hemisphere to the left.
This is the reason why in the northern hemisphere
the currents flow in a clockwise direction, while
in the southern hemisphere currents.generally tend
to follow an anti-clockwise direction. Currents will
be described in more detail in relevant routes.
 4
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH ATLANTIC
The Northeast trade winds
The NE trade winds extend in a wide belt north
of the equator reaching from the west coast of
Africa to the Caribbean Sea. They blow for most
of the year on the south side of the anti-cyclone
which is situated in about latitude 30"N, commonly
known as the Azores high. The northern limit of
the trade winds is around latitude 25 "N in win-
ter and 30"N in summer, although the constancy
of the trade winds cannot be relied on near their
northern limits. Therefore when making a
transatlantic passage it is advisable to be certain
the trade winds are reached before turning west.
The constancy of the trade winds improves dur-
ing the winter months as does their strength.
Although the average strength of these winds is
· force 3-4, it is not uncommon for them to reach
force 6 and even 7 during January to March. The
trade winds tend to be lighter and less consistent
in summer, which is also the hurricane season.
They have more of a northerly component in the
eastern part of the ocean and become increasing-
ly easterly in the Caribbean.
The consistency and reliability of the NE trade
winds is of particular interest to those who intend
to make a transatlantic voyage along the classic
route starting in the Canaries. Although the win-
ter months are reputed to have the inost consistent
winds, there are years in which these winds are
found in lower latitudes than normal and it is not.
unusual for boats to cover almost half the distance
to the Caribbean before falling in with steady winds.
Also described as trade ·winds are the
Portuguese Trades which blow from between NE
and NW off the western coast of the Iberian penin-
sula from April to September or October. Another
regional variation of the NE trade winds is the har-
mattan. This is a hot and dry wind, created by the
NE trade winds blowing over the deserts of Africa
and reaching the sea laden with dust. Around lat-
itude 20"N it is encountered only in the vicinity
of the African coast, but as one moves further
south, the harmattan can be experienced farther off-
shore, covering boats in a fine reddish dust and
reducing visibility. This easterly wind normally
occurs between November and February.
Another regional phenomenon associated with
the area which is normally under the influence of
the NE trade winds are northers. During the win-
ter months vast anti-cyclones develop over the
North American continent occasionally reaching
as far as the Gulf of Mexico. A strong northerly
flow of cold air develops ahead of this area of high
pressure, and becomes a violent norther which is
sometimes felt as far away as the Caribbean. The
progress of a norther is usually checked by the
higher islands of Hispaniola and Cuba, but to the
north of these islands it can be particularly dan-
gerous, mainly because of the steep seas which are
created when a strong norther hits th~ north flow-
ing Gulf Stream. The approach of a norther is usu-
ally heralded by a heavy bank of cloud on the N
or NW horizon.
Intertropical Convergence Zone
The extent of the trade winds at all times of the
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC
year is influenced by the position of the
Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) or dol-
drums. The ITCZ stays north. of the equator
throughout the year, although its position varies
greatly, mainly in accordance with the seasonal
movement of the sun, but also on a diurnal basis.
The width of the doldrums is also variable and
averages between 200 and 300 miles, although it
tends to be wider near the African coast and nar-
rower near Brazil. The weather inside the doldrum
belt is more turbulent in the wider eastern region
than in the west, with frequent squalls and thun-
derstorms occurring.
Southwest monsoon
The heat generated by the landmass of Africa dur-
ing the summer lowers the barometric pressure
over that area and causes the ITCZ to be deflect-
ed towards the north. The SE trade wind of the
South Atlantic is thus drawn across the equator
and arrives off the coast of Africa as the SW mon-
soon. It lasts from June to October between the
equator and latitude 15'N, but in the Gulf of
Guinea light SW winds prevail throughout the
year.
Variables
A band of variable winds extends across the
Atlantic to the north of the NE trade winds. This
is the area of high atmospheric pressure which
straddles the 30th parallel, being situated slight-
ly to the north of it in summer and to the south
in winter. The winds in the eastern half of this area
are usually northerly and cari be regarded as an ·
extension of the trade winds. In the western part
of the ocean the winds are often very light and long
periods of calms can be expected. This is the area
of the Horse Latitudes and the feared Sargasso Sea
where sailing ships used to be becalmed for weeks
on end.
Westerlies
Westerly winds predominate in the northern part
of the Atlantic Ocean, where the weather is often
unsettled, mainly due to the almost continuous
passage of depressions that race across the ocean
in an easterly direction. The winds in these high-
er latitudes are less constant in direction than those
of the Roaring Forties of the Southern Ocean,
although the predominant direction is westerly.
Hurricanes
A large area of the western North Atlantic is affect-
ed by tropical revolving storms, which c~n occur
theoretically at any time, as hurricanes !{ave been
recorded over the last few centuries in every month
of the year, although extremely r,11lely in some
months. The normal hurricane sea·s on is from late
May until early December, the highest frequency
occurring from August to October, with a lower
number occurring in the rest of the season.
September has the highest frequency, with an aver-
age of two hurricanes per month over a period of
100 years, although in some years the number of
hurricanes recorded in September was much
higher. In fact both the frequency and intensity of
hurricanes varies greatly from year to year, some
years being extremely bad with up to 15 hurricanes,
while other years go by with hardly any being
recorded. A West Indian rhyme describes the sea-
son as follows: ·
June too soon,
July standby,
August look out you must,
September remember,
all
October over!
Most hurricanes are born in the doldrum area west
of the Cape Verde Islands. They usually travel west
towards the Caribbean, their tracks moving
clockwise around the perimeter of areas of high
pressure. The area most affected by hurricanes is
the Caribbean Basin, particularly the northern part
of the Lesser Antilles, the Virgins, Bahamas,
Bermuda, the Gulf of Mexico, and Florida. At the
beginning and end of the hurricane season, these
storms sometimes develop in the Western
Caribbean, from where th.ey move in a northerly
direction mainly affecting the southern states of
the USA. The later months of the season are par-
ticularly dangerous for those sailing in the
Caribbean, as September and October hurricanes
usually develop locally and warnings are short-
er. Therefore if one intends to sail in the
Caribbean during the hurricane season, especial-
ly among the Lesser Antilles, it is safer to plan to
be there at the beginning of the hurricane season
(May to June) rather than towards its end
(October to early November). The high frequen-
cy months of August and particularly September
should be avoided altogether. A useful tip con-
cerning West Indian hurricanes is that if during
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC
May, June, and July the wind remains above aver-
age strength, the rainfall below average, and the
humidity also low, less than two hurricanes can
be expected to hit the Eastern Caribbean during
August and September.
Currents·
The currents of the North Atlantic are part of a vast
clockwise moving system that occupies the entire
ocean south of latitude 40 "N. The NE trade
winds create the North Equatorial Current, which
sets westward from the Cape Verde Islands to the
Caribbean. Running to the north of it is the weak-
er North Subtropical Current. Part of the North
Equatorial Current sets into the Caribbean Sea,
while-another branch flows northward along the
Lesser Antilles and is known as the Antilles
Current.
The mainspring of the North Atlantic circula-
North Atlantic currents
lion is the Gulf Stream, which in spite of its name
does not originate in the Gulf of Mexico but is a
continuation of the North Equatorial Current. The
wide band of warm water sweeps along the east-
ern side of North America until it meets the cold
Labrador Current, which forces it to flow in an east-
erly direction. From about longitude 45 "Wit ceas-
es to be so strong and continues eastwards as the
North Atlantic Current. In the eastern part of the
ocean the currents are less well defined, the North
Atlantic Current fanning out into different direc-
tions to form the south setting Azores Current and
further east the Portugal Current. This current sets
along the Iberian peninsula, one branch being
deflected through the Strait of Gibraltar into the
Mediterranean, while the other sets SW along the
African coast to become the Canary Current.
Ultimately this current turns west to join the North
Equatorial Current, thus completing the clockwise
system of the North Atlantic currents.
.35
WI N DS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC
South of latitude 10"N ~he pattern of the currents
is more complex. Between the two westward set-
ting equatorial currents is the Equatorial
Countercurrent. In winter this eastward setting
countercurrent is most noticeable along latitude
6 "N east of about longitude 45 'W, but it diminishes
in-strength towards the South American continent
where it disappears altogether. The South
Equatorial Current combines in this region with
the North Equatorial Current to form a strong west-
ward flowing current which is defletted in a
northerly direction along the coast of South
America towards the Lesser Antill7··
 5
ROUTES IN THE
NORTH ATLANTIC
he North Atlantic is crisscrossed' by a larger
T number of sailing routes than any other
ocean; and cruising boats have penetrated its fur-
thest reaches from the steaming jungle of the
Orinoco to the icy fjords of Greenland. The great-
est concentration of cruising boats is in Northern
Europe and North America, from which areas most
offshore routes originate. To these should be added
the routes fanning out from the Mediterranean,
another area of great concentration. Although acer-
tain proportion-of offshore voyages are two-way
and fit into a normal summer vacation, an
, increasing number of people are undertaking
longer voyages lasting several months. Many of
them complete a North Atlantic circumnavigation
by planning a voyage that takes advantage of the
most favourable weather conditions along the
entire route.
Christopher Columbus was the first navigator
to realise that there was a certain pattern to North
Atlantic weather and in his four transatlantic voy-
ages he used the prevailing conditions to best
advantage. Ever since Columbus completed the
first Atlantic circle in 1493, his example has been
followed by countless sailors. The circuit has· been
increasingly popular with European sailors
migrating west with the NE trade winds by reach-
ing the Caribbean islands via the Canaries and
returning east with the westerlies of higher lati-
tudes, usually by calling at Bermuda and the
Azores. In recent years, the circuit has been joined
by sailors from the east coast of North America,
who reach the Caribbean by what appears to be
a roundabout route. For those who intended to
spend a season in the Eastern Caribbean islands
the accepted practice was to sail to the Lesser
Antilles at the end of the hurricane season, in late
October or early November. However, passages
from the US east coast at that time of year are sel-
dom easy and therefore the alternative, albeit
longer, route is an attractive proposition. Its great-
est advantage is that it offers the possibility to
cruise in the best seasons throughout the year. By
leaving the USA in May, one can cross the
Atlantic via Bermuda and the Azores, spend the
summer in Europe, recross the Atlantic in
November, spend the winter in the Caribbean and
return home the following May. This schedule is
a perfect example of being in the right place at the
right time as it avoids the hurricane season in the
Western Atlantic, both Atlantic crossings are
undertaken at the most favourable times, the
Caribbean islands are visited at the optimum.sea-
son, and the return home is accomplished before
the start of the new hurricane season.
The traditional route from America to Europe,
which runs along higher latitudes to take advan-
tage of the prevailing westerlies, is used mostly
by American or Canadian sailors crossing to
Ireland, Britain or other North European desti-
nations. Boats heading for southern ports in
Europe, including the Mediterranean, usually take
the warmer route via the Azores.
Most offshore passages from Northern Europe
are southbound and there is a very good reason
for this. The dream of almost every cold water
sailor is to cruise in warmer weather and so, when
the time finally comes for that cruise, they invari-
ably point their bows southwards, at least as far
as the Mediterranean, but more likely the
Cana~ies and Caribbean. Westbound passages in
higher latitudes to America are now very much
the exception, as most cruising sailors prefer to
reach the other side of the Atlantic by a more
.roundabout and comfortable route. Even the
route to the Azores attracts considerably fewer
::17
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

North European boats than in the past, when a
summer cruise to the Azores was not regarded as
out of the ordinary. For most European sailors, the
Azores are now mainly a convenient stopover on
the way home from the Caribbean.
The opening up of the former Communist coun-
tries bordering on the Black and Baltic Seas is
attracting boats from both sides of the Atlantic to
those areas. Because of the relatively short cruis-
ing season in the Baltic, the quickest way to reach
that inland sea is via the Kiel Canal. ;
More ambitious sailors have even oeen tempt-
ed to visit some of the Russian ports on the White
Sea and the sight of cruising boa'-5ailing beyond

ANlO ROUTES .FROM NORTH EUROPE

ANll Europe to North America (northern routes) 39
AN12 Europe to North America (southern routes) 40
AN13 Southbound from Northern Europe 42
AN14 Routes across the Bay of Biscay 42
AN15 Northern Europe to Portugal 43
AN16 Northern Europe to Mediterranean 44
AN17 Northern Europe to Madeira 45
AN18 Northern Europe to Canary Islands 46
AN19 Northern Europe to Azores 47
60"W ()"

ANJO Routes from Northern Europe


the Arctic Circle is no longer a rarity.
Because the sailing season in Northern Europe
is limited to only a few months, most offshore pas-
sages take place between May and August.
Earlier, the weather is still cold and unsettled,
although for northbound passages the early part
of the season has better chances of favourable, if
strong, winds from the SW. With the onset of sum-
mer, the likelihood of NE winds is higher. After
the end of August the weather becomes more
unsettled and at least one violent storm can be
expected either side of the autumn equinox.
Anyone sailing from the north has to pass two
ANll Europe to North America (northern routes)
AN10 ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE
major hurdles before reaching the more benign
southern part of the North Atlantic. Sailing from
the North Sea towards the English Channel one
has to put up with one of the highest concentra-
tions of shipping in the world, and if the visibil-
ity is poor and the wind unfavourable it is better
to go into a port and wait for a change. The next
hurdle is the Bay of Biscay where even in a mod-
erate gale the seas can become very rough.
However, the notorious bay is only about 300 miles
across and if one leaves with a favourable forecast
from a place like Falmouth, one should be able to
cross without being caught out by the weather.
39
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
From the Vikings and the Pilgrim Fathers to par-
ticipants in singlehanded races, the westbound
transatlantic routes of high latitudes have been well
sailed over the centuries. The great circle route from
the English Channel (AN11A) is probably the most
difficult as there is usually a battle against head-
winds all the way across. The alternatives are either
to make a detour to the north, in the hope of find-
ing more favourable winds (ANll B), a track clos-
er to the great circle route from Scotland
(ANUC), or to make a detour to the south, in search
of warmer weather, as described in AN12. All of
the northern routes can be affected by fog and ice
and their timing is therefore crucial. In July, the
maximum iceberg limit extends SE from
Newfoundland to 39.N, SO'W; in August the ice
limit recedes to above latitude 41 "N, which Iirn-
its passages close to those latitudes to a few sum-
mer months. As most of the Western Atlantic can
be affected by tropical storms, this hazard should
be borne in mind also, especially during late sum-
mer passages.
The prevailing winds on route AN11A are most-
ly westerly with the added disadvantage of sail-
ing against the Gulf Stream. It can be
counterproductive to try and avoid the contrary
current by moving south, as this brings the pos-
sibility of straying into the Azores high. To avoid
the effect of the Gulf Stream entirely one may.have
to go further south along one of the routes
described in AN12, or take a more northerly track.
Tuning on these routes is crucial and weather fore-
casts for as long as a week in advance should be
AN12 Europe to North America (southern routes)
consulted before deciding on the best tactic. ·
The main object of the most northerly routes
(ANllB and AN11C) is to stay north of the lows
that move across the Atlantic from west to east.
Although the ·chances of finding entirely
fa yourable winds are only marginally better than
on the direct route (ANllA), boats with good wind-
ward going capabilities have made speedy pas-
sages, as between the lows the' winds are IllOSt
likely to be either NW or SW. These northern routes
converge at waypoint AN113 from where a new
course is set for the port of destination. As these
routes pass through an area with a very high inci-
dence of fog and ice, they should only be attempt-
ed later in the summer.
One of the shortest routes across the Atlantic is
the great circle route from the English Channel to
St John's in Newfoundland (ANJ 1D). As the course
reaches its northernmost latitude at WP AN114,
in some years this could be perilously close to the
ice limit. Early in the season, or in a year with more
ice than usual, it may be worth considering route
AN12A which keeps to the south of the ice limit.
This limit fluctuates from year to year and month
to month. The average iceberg limits for July and
August are mentioned above, but a more norther-
ly course can be chanced if up to date ice reports
can be obtained by radio.
Boats bound for US ports should use WPs AN115
and AN116 to avoid the shallows off Sable Island and
Nantucket Shoal respectively. Only a few interme-
diate waypoints are suggested as all of these routes
should be approached with complete flexibility.

To avoid the headwinds and cold weather on the
more direct transatlantic routes described in
AN11, there is a choice of a more southerly course,
which can be either direct (AN12A) or via the
Azores (AN12B).
The prevailing winds on route AN12A are west-
erly with the added disadvantage of sailing
against the Gulf Stream. It can be counterpro-
ductive to try and avoid the contrary current by
. moving south, as this brings the possibility of stray-
ing into the Azores high, so one must be prepared
to either put up with the current or move far
enough south to avoid it altogether. Fast passages
have been recorded on this route, but this has been
due mainly to the individual boat's performance
as well as access to weather information. Weather
forecasts for at least one week in advance should
be consulted before departure to be able to
decide on the best tactic. Passages in early sum-
mer should use WP AN121 to avoid the southern
ice limit. West of the Azores waypoints AN122 and
AN123 are given to avoid the shallows off Sable
Island and Nantucket Shoal respectively.
ANlO ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE
Route AN12B is a fair weather alternative and
also a continuation of route AN19 via the Azores
(page 47) . Although longer than the other routes,
it has the advantage of warmer weather and a
mid-Atlantic stop for rest and reprovisioning. The
course westward from the Azores will depend both
on the final port of destination and the weather
encountered. Depending on the winds encoun-
tered, one should not move north of about latitude
37 "N so as to avoid the southern limit of the Gulf
Stream and possibly the Azores high as well. South
and southwesterly wil1ds prevail along this route
in summer.
This route is likely to be affected by tropical
storms after the middle of June, the risk of hurri-
canes increasing as summer progresses. For the
same reason, a stopover in Bermuda is only rec-
ommended in an emergency as it involves a detour
and also increases the time spent in an area affect-
ed by hurricanes. Route AN137(page148) should
be consulted for details if a stop in Bermuda is
envisaged.
41
ROUTES IN THE NORT H ATLANTIC
AN13 Southbound from Northern Europe
For southbound yachts from the Baltic, the Kiel
Canal offers a convenient access to the North Sea.
From WP AN130 in the Elbe estuary, the route runs
parallel to the Frisian islands. All routes from
Scandinavia and Northern Europe converge into
the Straits of Dover on their way towards the Bay
of Biscay. The early summer months are the best
time for these southbound passages as weather
conditions and winds are generally favourable both
in the North Sea and the English Channel. The
winds from May to July are mostly northerly and
the frequency of gales in the North Sea is low. Good
conditions can be relied upon to last until about
the middle of August after v:'hich the risk of gales
AN14 Routes across the Bay of Biscay
Whether starting off from an English harbour or
any port in continental Europe, it is advisable to
make a last stop in Falmouth to wait for a good
weather forecast before crossing the Bay of Biscay.
This port in the SW of England has good docking
and repair facilities and is excellently situated to
increases. September has some of the most violent
storms, usually associated with the equinox.
Although not ideal, October can be a reasonably
good month for a southbound passage allowing
those who have dallied too long to join the boats
heading south from Gibraltar and Madeira
towards the Canary Islands. In this case sufficient
time should be allowed and charts carried of bolt
holes along the Dutch and English coasts in which
to seek shelter in threatening weather. As this route
intersects some of the busiest shipping lanes in
the world, particular attention must be paid to
shipping, especially in bad weather and poor
visibility.
wait for favoi.trable conditions for the continuation
of a voyage. A departure should not be attempt-
ed if SW winds are forecast, which are generated
by depressions moving across the North Atlantic.
As soon as the depression has passed, NW winds
can be expected and with a reasonable long term

forecast there is usually sufficient time to reach Cape
Finisterre before another change in the weather.
Regardless of the forecast and the actual direc-
tion of the wind, it is wise to try and make some
westing and not follow a rhumb line across the Bay.
Taking as a departure point WP AN140, just south
of Lizard Point, course is set for WP AN141, 20
miles west of Cape Villano and some 25 miles NW
of Cape Finisterre, at the start of the shipping sep-
aration zone going around the latter. For the con-
tinuation of the southbound routes see AN15 and
AN16 (below and page 44).
As a rule, while crossing the Bay of Biscay, if the
winds are from the SW and one is sailing on the
starboard tack, one should avoid being set too
much to the SSE or SE, so as not to be embayed
by a SW gaie, which is the usual direction of the
wor~t gales. Because of the abrupt change from
deep to shallow waters in the Bay of Biscay, seas
can become extremely rough even in a moderate
storm. The situation is sometimes exacerbated by
a high swell generated by a hurricane blowing
AN15 Northern Europe to Portugal
Boats not intending to stop on the north Spanish
coast should skirt the Bay of Biscay and make for
waypoint AN151, approximately 25 miles NW of
Cape Finisterre. This avoids both the Bay itself and
the busy traffic passing close to Cape Finisterre.
The best time to make this passage is in early sum-
mer, between May and July, when the weather is
often settled and the winds favourable. Towards
the end of the summer the frequ~ncy of gales
AN10 ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE
thousands of miles away.
The best time to make this passage is in early
summer, between May and July, when the weath-
er is often settled and the winds favourable, prob-
ably from the NE. Towards the end of summer the
frequency of gales increases and more attention
· should be paid to the forecasts from the middle
of August to the end of September when some of
the most violent storms have been recorded.
Although called equinoctial gales these violent
storms can occur on either side of the autumn
equinox and the seas generated by them in the Bay
of Biscay can be extremely rough.
With a good forecast, especially early in the sum-
mer, one may be tempted to stop first at one of the
Spanish ports, such as La·Coruna. The rest of the
voyage can then be continued in easy stages along
the western coasts of Spain and Portugal. Those
planning to stop in Northern Spain can sail a direct
route by setting course from WP AN140 to WP
AN142, three miles WNW of Cape Prior, in the
approaches to La Corufta.
increases and more attention should be paid to the
forecasts from the middle of August to the end of
September when some of the most violent storms
have been recorded.
Having weathered Cape Finisterre, landfall can
be made at WP AN152, off Rio Lima, a tidal river
on the north shore of which lies Viana do Castelo,
an attractive small town with a marina, which is
a convenient place to·dear into Portugal. Its main
43
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
drawback is the bar across the river entrance where
seas break in onshore w inds. In such a case it is
wise to look for an alternative.
If one is short of time, one can sail nonstop to
Lisbon. From WP AN151, off Cape Finisterre, a
course should be set for WP AN153, west of
AN16 Northern Europe to Mediterranean
Instructions for crossing the Bay of Biscay are sim-
ilar to those described in ANlS. Boats intending
to sail to the Mediterranean nonstop should stay
well offshore and pass Cape Finisterre at a safe dis-
tance by setting course for WP AN161. During
summer the winds along the Portuguese coast are
usually favourable northerlies, which will ensure
a fast sail all the way to Cape St Vincent. From Cape
Finisterre, the course runs along the lO"W merid-
ian and passes close to the west of Berlenga Islands
to WP AN162. From there the course will be altered
to WP AN163, 7 miles off Cape St Vincent.
From Cape St Vincent the course is altered for
the Strait of Gibraltar to WP AN164, off Hoyo Bank,
at the SW extremity of the shallows off Cape
Trafalgar. The next waypoint to make for is WP
44
Berlenga Islands. From there course is altered for
WP AN154, off Cabo Raso, in the approaches to
Lisbon. Canal Norte (North Channel) leads into
the Tagus River, the Portuguese capital being sit-
uated about 8 miles upstream on the/north shore
of the river.
/
I
AN165, 2 miles south of Tarifa Island and inside
the westgoing shipping lane. A course parallel to
the Spanish coast will take one into the Bay of
Gibraltar to WP AN166 off Punta Carnero and
thence to WP AN167 off North Mole and the
approaches to Marina Bay. Boats. proceeding into
the Mediterranean without calling at Gibraltar
should make for WP AN168,_ 3 miles south of
Europa Point. At night boats transiting the Strait
nonstop may find it easier to cross over to the
African coast earlier and stay in the eastgoing ship-
ping lane.
Once past Cape St Vincent, the Portuguese trades
are normally lost and winds become more local in
character. On summer days, a SW sea breeze occurs
on approaching the Bay of Cadiz. This wind comes

up around noon and lasts until midnight. If a strong
Levanter is predicted in the Strait of Gib~altar, it is
advisable to wait for a change in one of the ports
along the Algarve coast (Lagos orVtlamoura) or Bay
of Cadiz (Puerto Sherry). Another convenient port
is Barbate, which is not far west of Tarifa and is the
closest to the Strait. Alternatively, one can find some
shelter in the lee of Tarifa Island itself. Weather
information, as well as other shipping news, can
be obtained from Tarifa Radio, which operates a
24-hour service in both Spanish and English.
The Strait of Gibraltar s~parates Europe from
Africa and at its nearest point the two continents
are only 7.5 miles apart. A traffic separation zone
operates along the 35 miles of the Strait, with west-
bound traffic using the north lane and eastbound
traffic the south lane. Small craft can use the
inshofe lanes, and boats making for Gibraltar are
recommende.d to keep close to the Spanish shore.
However, one should be extremely cautious, par-
ticularly at night, as fishing nets are often set with-
out any regard for shipping. These nets can stretch
for several miles offshore and have even been set
in the traffic separation zone between the two ship-
ping lanes approaching the Strait from the west.
The nets are normally marked by small lights,
which are difficult to see from a distance.
Another hazard to watch out for are tidal races
AN17 Northern Europe to Madeira
AN10 ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE
and overflows, the most violent occurring on the
north side extending SW from Cape Trafalgar.
Wind against tide can produce rough seas west of
Tarifa with an easterly wind, and east of Tarifa with
a westerly wind. The main problem is the
strength of the currents and the unpredictability
of the tidal streams. There is a permanent east set-
ting current of about 2 knots through the Strait,
being strongest at the centre and weakest at the
edges. The current is weakest over shallow water
where the flow can be reversed by a contrary wind.
Negotiating the Strait from west to east is u su-
ally easier because the prevailing current always
sets from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean. By
entering the Strait a t the right time, a boat corn-
ing from the Atlantic can count on as much as nine
hours of favourable current. However, conditions
can become extremely rough if a strong Levanter
blows against the current. Although tidal data"'i n
the Strait is not entirely reliable, it has been estab-
lished that in the middle of the Strait the east set-
ting stream starts approximately at the time of HW
Gibraltar and the west going stream six hours later.
It can also be assumed that the tidal flow from high
to low water is to the east, while the flow from low
to high water is to the west. The times of HW
Gibraltar can be requested over the VHF radio from
Tarifa Radio.
45 •
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
As the great circle route from the English Channel
to Madeira passes at a safe distance west of Cape
Finisterre, similar directions apply for the passage
across the Bay of Biscay as for route AN15. As the
intention is not to stop in Northern Spain or con-
tinental Portugal, some westing should be made
after leaving the English Channel so as to have suf-
ficient searoom should a southwesterly gale blow
up while crossing the Bay of Biscay. On leaving
the English Channel, a course should be set for WP
ANl 71, some 60 miles NW of Cape Finisterre. Such
a course avoids the shipping lanes that converge
on Cape Finisterre. Having passed the latter, boats
going to Funchal should set a direct course to WP
AN172, west of Porto Santo Island. The island of
Madeira is best approached from the NE by round-
ing Ilheu de Fora, a small islet on which stands a
powerful light. From WP ANl 73, one mile E of the
latter, course can be altered to pass south of Ponta
de Garajau (WP AN174) and thence to Funchal.
Because the marina in Funchal, the capital of
Madeira, is very crowded in October, when most cruis-
ing boats plan to stop there on their way south, a stop
in Porto Santo is recommended at this time of year.
AN18 Northern Europe to Canary Islands
The direct course from the English Channel fol-
lows closely the route to Madeira and the same
directions apply as for routes AN15 and ANl 7 to
WP AN181 off Cape Finisterre. As such a nonstop
passage from Northern Europe to the Canaries is
usually attempted late in the season by boats hur-
rying to join the trade wind route to the
46•
In such a case, from WP ANl 71 one should make for
WP Al'\1175 and approach the main harbour on Porto
Santo from the NE and E. There are a number of dan-
gers along Porto Santo's coasts and thi:se are avoid-
ed by keeping well off the coast and iji{aking for WP
AN176. From there the course can be altered for the
port after Ilheu de Cima, the sm~l islet off the SE
extremity of the island, has beef\-left to starboard.'
During the summer, winds'along this route are
mostly favourable with the Portuguese trade winds
blowing off the Iberian Peninsula and African
coast. Also favourable is the Portugal Current
which sets in a SSW direction.
In theory, this passage can be made at any time
between April and October but the weather
s hould be watched carefully. If a late start is made
as part of a transatlantic passage, particular
attention should be paid to the weather forecasts
during September and October, as West Indian hur-
ricanes can influence weather conditions even on
the east side of the Atlantic. Some of the worst
weather on this route has been recorded in
September or early October with gale force south-
westerlies generated by a passing front.
Caribbean, the weather can be less favourable and
the likelihood of gales is greater than in summer.
As suggested when discussing routes across the
Bay of Biscay, such a passage should not be start-
ed unless there is a good forecast for at least 72
hours. This nonstop route to the Canaries is only
recomm1:mded for those who wish to provision

there before a transatlantic passage to the
Caribbean. If planning to sail on to Cape Town,
Brazil, or any other South Atlantic destination, it
might be better to keep to the west of the Canaries
so as to cross the equator on a meridian where the
doldrums are narrower than in the proximity of
the African coast. Transequatorial routes are dis-
cussed in chapter 6.
South of the Bay of Biscay bad weather is usu-
ally associated with depressions moving across the
Atlantic to the north of Madeira and generating
strong SW winds. In the likelihood of encounter-
ing such weather, it is advisable to keep weU off
the Portuguese coast so as to be able to go on the
starboard tack when the SW winds arrive. Once
the front has passed, the winds wiU move rapid-
ly to the NW. 'A course can then be set for WP
AN18!2, north of La Isleta light in the approaches
to Las Palmas. The conspicuous shape of La Isleta
makes a perfect landfall. 2.5 miles further south
AN19 Northern Europe to Azores
The best time to make this passage is in June or
July when favourable conditions can usually be
expected. Although the likelihood of W and SW
winds is quite high at the start of the voyage, the
frequency of N winds increases further south dur-
ing the summer. It pays to wait before leaving the
English Channel until N winds are forecast, as they
allow a direct course to be set. Arriving from
Northern Europe, the most convenient port of entry
is the capital Ponta Delgada, which has a new
marina. Coming from NE or E landfall will be made
AN10 ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE
is the entrance to Las Palmas harbour, which in
1994 was undergoing extensive enlargement
works. The eastern-breakwater was being extend-
ed southwards and this may not be shown on some
charts.
If the passage is undertaken earlier in the sea-
son with the intention of spending some time cruis-
ing the Canaries, the first landfaU should be in
Lanzarote, which lies to windward of aU other
islands in the archipelago. From WP AN181
course should be set for AN183 off Alegranza. It
is also possible to stop first at Graciosa, a small
island north of Lanzarote, which has a smaU but
well protected port at La Sociedad, its main set-
tlement situated on the north shore of the narrows
separating Graciosa from Lanzarote. In this case
landfall is made at AN184 west of Graciosa, from
where the south coast of the island is follow,ed
around to La Sociedad. Entry formalities can be
completed later in Lanzarote itself.
at the eastern extremity of Siio Miguel Island at
WP AN191, two miles east of Penta do Amel.
Those wishing to sail direct to Horta, on Faial,
should set a course for WP AN192 and.make land-
fall NE of Graciosa, the northernmost island of the
arfhipelago. From there, the course is altered to
pass west of Sao Jorge island (WP AN193) and
- thence to WP ANl 94 off Ponta Espalamaca in the
approaches to Horta. In strong SW winds, the chan-
nel between' Pico and Faial, in the approaches to
Horta, can be affected by violent gusts. These, and
47
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

the north setting current, should be taken into
account if attempts are made to enter Horta under
such conditions.
If W winds persist on leaving the English
Channel, or strong SW winds are encountered en
route, and a direct course to the Azores does not
seem practicable, it might be better to change plans
and sail there via Spain or Portugal. Such a route
is described in ANIS. On the subsequent leg from
one of the ports on the Iberian Peninsula one has
the benefit of the Portuguese trades, although such
a detour can add about 300 miles to the total dis-
tance. However, the possibility of epcountering
westerly winds on the subsequent s,~ction to the
Azores cannot be discounted and therefore such
a detour should not be contemplp.ted unless one
has access to reliable weather iJlformation.

AN20 ROUTES FROM PORTUGAL

AN21 Portugal to Gibraltar 49
AN22 Portugal to Canary Islands 50
AN23 Portugal to Madeira 51
AN24 Portugal to Azores 52
AN25 Portugal to Northern Europe 53

4o•N

CANARY ISLAND.SQ f>. <{j(/}

20•w

AN20 Routes from Portugal

Until recently most sailors associated Portugal with where many North European sailors left their boats
the Algarve coast and the marina at Vilamoura, either before venturing further east into tile

48

Mediterranean or across the Atlantic. The west
coast of Portugal has only recently started attract-
ing cruising boats in any numbers, but things are
rapidly changing as sailors discover the many
attractions of this small country whose history has
always been associated with the sea. The capital
Lisbon is a delightful city to explore, although
docking facilities for visitors continue to be dis-
appointingly inadequate.
The most significant feature of this area are the
Portuguese trades, which blow steadily down the
coast during summer months. The prevailing sum-
mer winds are northerly. Such winds are common
from April to September and in June and July can
reach as far as Madeira. The NW shores of the
peninsula experience more variable winds,
although there is also a northerly component in
summer. The 'prevailing winds make it essential
to start a summer. cruise as far north as possible.
Similarly, during the summer months it is normally
easier to sail from mainland Portugal to its out-
lying islands than vice versa. In fine summer
weather there are land and sea breezes along the
coast although the northerly trades do modify the
sea breezes to some extent. There is also more sea
fog in summer near the coast associated with calm
or light winds. There is often a remarkable
change in weather after.Cape St Vincent has been
passed. The one potential trouble spot for boats
sailing east is the Strait of Gibraltar and the tac-
tics for negotiating it are outlined in route AN16.
Sailing from the mainland to Madeira is rarely dif-
AN21 Portugal to Gibraltar
AN20 ROUTES FROM PORTUGAL
ficult with the Portuguese trades ensuring fast pas-
sages. Occasionally, however, with the passage of
a depression, the Winds can come from the south-
west, when it is better to wait for a change. The
same applies to the passage to the Canaries, which
also benefits from fair winds most of the time.
Passages to the Azores are usually a mixture of
good winds for the first half and variable condi-
tions as one approaches the archipelago. ·
Because mainland Portugal is often the starting
point for a cruise in the Azores, a few useful tips
are given in route AN24. A cruise in the Azores
does not lend itself to a logical sequence and there-
fore its starting point should be dictated by the sub-
sequent destination. For those heading west
across the Atlantic and who have the time to spend
at least two weeks in the Azores, the logical land-
fall, and start of an Azorean cruise, should be either
the small island of Santa Maria or the capital Ponta
Delgada, on neighbouring Siio Miguel island. Boats
planning to return to Portugal or the Med-
iterranean, as well as those intending to sail later
to Madeira ·and the Canaries, should consider
making their first landfall as far north as Graciosa
and start their cruise there by calling successive-
ly at Siio Jorge, Faial, Pico, and Terceira on their
way to Sao Miguel a,nd Santa Maria. Boats bound
for Northern Europe may find better conditions
for their subsequent voyage to the English
Channel by sailing the obverse route to the one
described and take their leave from the Azores in
Graciosa.
49
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Along the western coast of Portugal northerly
winds can be expected, especially in summer, when
the Portuguese trades are the prevailing winds. On
leaving Lisbon, or any port further up the coast,
Cape Espichel is passed at a safe distance and a
course is set for WP AN212, 7 miles off Cape St
Vincent. The course is then altered for WP AN213
off Hoyo Bank at the SW extremity of the shallows
off Cape Trafalgar. A hazard to be borne in mind
along this route are tun.a nets, which can stretch
for several miles off the Spanish coast and may lay
across the above route. The next waypoint to make
for is WP AN214, two miles south of Tarifa Island
and inshore of the westgoing shipping lane. A
course parallel to the Spanish coast leads into the
AN22 Portugal to Canary Islands
This is usually a pleasant passage, especially in
summer when the Portuguese trades blow con-
sistently and the southbound passage is further
aided by the favourable current. Boats leaving from
Lisbon (AN22A) can set a course for Gran
Canaria as soon as they are safely out of the Tagus
estuary through t!:te South Channel. From WP
AN221 a course is set for WP AN223 north of La
Isleta light in the approaches to Las Palmas. If leav-
ing from Vilamoura (AN22B) the course should
stay well off the African coast as steadier winds
will be encountered further offshor.e. From WP ·
AN222 one mile SW of the marina entrance, a
course can then be set for the same WP AN223,
north of La lsleta. This keeps clear of all dangers,
including El Roque rock off Punta El Nido. The con-
so
Bay of Gibraltar. The reporting dock for customs
and two of the marinas are easiest found by mak-
ing for WP AN215 off the North Mole.
After Cape St Vincent has been pass~, the winds
become variable and the northerlies/are usually
lost. Closer to the Strait of Gibraltar, the winds
change again and usually blow eit)1er in or out of
the Strait. The current is favour~!fle on this route
as there is a constant flow of water from the
Atlantic to the Mediterranean. The easterly
Levanter wind produces a steep sea when blow-
ing against the contrary current, which can make
conditions difficult for a small boat when the wind
is strong. Additional directions for transiting tlie
Strait are given in route AN16.
spicuous shape of La Isleta makes a perfect land-
fall. 2.5 miles further south is the entrance to Las
Palmas harbour, which in 1994 was undergoing
extensive enlargement works. The eastern break-
water was being extended southwards and this is
only shown on the latest charts.
From June to September the Portuguese trades
usually provide excellent sailing conditions
along this route. In May and October the winds
are less constant, although their direction con-
tinues to be predominantly northerly. November
has a higher incidence of winds from other direc-
tions, but winds from the northern quarter are still
in the majority. The passage to the Canaries should
not be left for too late in the season, as strong SW
winds with rough seas are often encountered.by

boats sailing this route after the end of October.
Anyone intending to see more of the Canaries
should plan on stopping first in Lanzarote,
AN23 Portugal to Madeira
Throughout the year the predominant winds on
this route are from the northerly quarter, but best
sailing conditions are usually experienced
between June and August when NE winds prevail.
Although these Portuguese trades normally reach
as far as Madeira, the likelihood of contrary winds
increases with the approach of winter. During the
summer, winds along this route are mostly
favourable when the Portuguese trade winds blow
off the Iberian Peninsula and African coast. Also
favourable is the Portugal Current which sets in
a SSW direction. The weather in the vicinity of
Madeira is influenced by the position of the Azores
high, light winds and calms occurring when this
high moves south of its normal position.
Leaving from either Lisbon (WP AN231) or
Vilamoura (WP AN232) boats bound for Funchal
AN20 ROUTES FROM P ORTUGAL
which is the logical island from which to start a
cruise in the Canary Islands. See AN18 for further
details. ·
can set a direc~ course (route AN23A) for WP
AN233, south of Porto Santo Island. From there
the course is altered for WP AN234, south of Pon ta
do Garajau, on the south coast of Mad~ira, and
thence to Funchal.
As Porto Santo is on the direct route to Madeira
and the marina in Funchal, the capital of Madeira,
is often very crowded, a stop in Porto Santo is rec-
ommended . If a stop in Porto Santo is intended,
the initial course (route AN23B) should be set for
WP AN235, NE of Porto Santo. From there make
for WP AN236, one mlle NE of llheu de Cima. There
are a number of dangers along Porto Santo's east
coast and these are avoided by keeping well off the
coast and only altering course for the port after
Ilheu de Cima, the small islet off the SE extremi-
ty of the island, has been left to starboard.
51
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN24 ·Portugal to Azores
This route between continental Portugal and its
offlying archipelago has the benefit of the
Portuguese trades during summer months when
northerly winds predominate. If the passage is made
in May, strong northerly winds may be encountered
for the first days, being replaced by light winds or
calms if a ridge of high pressure extending from
the Azores high is crossed. The winds on the other
! side of the ridge normally blow from a SW direc-
I tion. At the beginning and end of summer the fre-
I quency of gales is higher, as are SW winds.
On lepving the mainland with a fair northerly
I wind, boats using the Azores as a stopover on a
i transatlantic passage and planning to call at Horta
I (AN24A) rather than Penta Delgada (AN24B)
·j should sail a course which passes north of Sao
I Miguel. Such a course is recommended because of
the difficulty of leaving Pon ta Delgada should the
I winds change later to SW.
I From WP AN241 off the South Channel in the
I approaches to Lisbon, a direct course leads to WP
AN243, SE of the island of Terceira. Depending
I on weather conditions, from that point Horta can
be reached by sailing either north or south of the
11 island of Pico. In strong SW winds it is better to
111 stay north of Pico and, if the weather deteriorates,
Iii one can seek shelter at Velas (38 '40.S'N, 28 '12'W),
JIJ
1ii 52
'·'
the main port on Sao Jorge. Terceira itseli has a
good harbour at Angra do Heroismo (38'39'N,
27'13'W), although it is open to the south and
should be avoided in strong winds from that direc-
tion. In strong SW winds, the channel between Pico
and Faial, in the approaches to Horta, can be affect-
ed by violent gusts. These, and the north setting
current, should be taken into account if attempt-
ing to enter Horta under such conditions.
The direct route to l'onta Delgada (AN24B) leads
to WP AN244, ~ miles sou th of Penta da Garc;a,
on the south coast of the island of Sao Miguel. Boats
coming from ports south of Lisbon may prefer to
make their first Azorean landfall at Sao Miguel.
There is a good new marina at Penta Delgada, the
capital of the Azores, which has the best facilities
in the archipelago. Another good starting point for
a cruise among the islands is the island of Santa
Maria, at the southeastern extremity of the arch-
ipelago, from where the other islands can be
reachei:I in logical succession. The alternative is to
start cruising the Azores from one of the furthest
islands, such as Graciosa, and, after visiting islands
in the central group, take one's leave from the
Azores in Santa Maria. The two westernmost
islands of Flores and Corvo are usually visited by
boats arriving from the west and their inclusion

in a cruise starting from the east is more difficult
and less practical.
Some boats sailing from mainland Portugal to
the Azores take their leave from Vilamoura, on the
Algarve coast. From WP AN242, one mile SW of
AN25 Portugal to Northern Europe
The prevailing northerly winds of summer, which
ensure excellent sailing conditions for southbound
passages, make the task of reaching northern des-
tinations very difficult throughout the summer
months. The easiest solution is to sail up the coast
in easy stages by taking advantage of favourable
breezes which may blow close inshore. Having
reached Northern Portugal, one can wait for
favourable conditions to cross the Bay of Biscay.
· The other alternative is to take an offshore tack
and try to make as much northing as possible until
more favourable winds are met. North of latitude
45.N westerly winds become increasingly pre-
dominant, but towards the end of summer the fre-
quency of SW gales also increases, so it is better
to plan this passage for the first half of summer.
The time to avoid, if at all possible, is the period
leading up to the autumn equinox as gales which
occur around this time can produce hazardous con-
ditions in the Bay of Biscay.
AN20 ROUTES FROM PORTUGAL
the marina entrance, a course should be set for WP
AN245, 5 miles S of Cape Sagres. From there the
course is altered for one of the landfall points men-
tioned above.
Boats leaving from Lisbon should take the
Northern Channel so as to reach the open sea at
WP AN252, off Cabo Raso. The course then leads
west of the Berlenga Islands through WP AN253
and on to WP AN254, some 25 miles NW of Cape
Finiste.rre. From that point a direct course can be
set for WP AN256 off Lizard Point in the
approaches to.Falmouth, a most convenient port
of entry into the United Kingdom.
Contrary winds, especially during summer, may
force one to break the initial section of this pas-
sage into st:iorter stages. In such a case a good
departure point from Northern Portugal is the
small port of Viana do Castelo. When leaving from
there one should wait for favourable conditions
to cross the bar across the entrance. Having reached
the open sea, from WP AN255 a course can then
be set for AN254 and, provided conditions con-
tinue to be right, across the Bay of Biscay into the
English Channel.
53
 ROU TES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC

AN30 ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR

AN31 Gibraltar to Madeira 55
AN32 Gibraltar to Canary Islands 56
AN33 Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles 58 /
AN34 Gibraltar to Northern Europe 59
AN35 Gibraltar to Portugal 59
AN36 Gibraltar to Azores 60 /
AN37 Gibraltar to North America 61
AN38 Gibraltar to Atlantic Morocco 63
Gibraltar is described as the gateway to the opposite direction. Gibraltar is also a convenient
Mediterranean, although the opposite is equally place from which to visit neighbouring ports in
true as, for westbound boats, the Strait of North Africa, whether the colourful Tangiers in
Gibraltar is the gateway to the Atlantic. One of the Morocco or the two remaining Spanish possessions
most frequented transit ports for yachts in the of Mella and Ceuta.
world, Gibraltar is particularly busy in spring, As Gibraltar lies at the eastern end of the Strait
when boats make their way into the which bears its name, eastbound boats are Jess
Mediterranean, and autumn, when the end of the dependent on weather conditions than those
sailing season produces a similar movement in the intending to sail through the Strait to the Atlantic

40'W

•1

.....
AZORES

0 .
BERMUDA

••

I CAPE VERDE•~
ISLANDS

so•w 40'W
I AN30 Routes from Gibraltar
I
JI

beyond. A favourable forecast is essential on leav-
ing Gibraltar as the Strait can turn into an insur-
mountable obstacle if weather conditions are not
right. Ideally, westbound boats should wait for a
Levanter or at least light westerly winds before leav-
ing Gibraltar. Almost as important as the direction
of the wind is the state of the tide and this should
be played to one's advantage. If one leaves about
three hours after HW Gibraltar, the tide will be con-
trary for only the first hour. After the tide slack-
ens, by keeping to the Spanish side of the Strait,
when the tide turns one should have a fair current
at least as far as Tarifa. Because of the strong tidal
sets, one should avoid sailing too close to the
Spanish shore. In strong westerly winds, if one
finds it impossible to make headway against them,
one can anchor in the lee of Tarifa to wait for a
breals in the weather and a favourable tide. The
situation usually improves significantly once the
Strait has been left behind and a course is set for
either Madeira or the Canaries. If bound for
Northern Europe, a direct course is rarely possi-
ble since both winds and current along the
Portuguese coast are normally contrary. If the
Portuguese trades are still blowing, it is better to
head offshore and favour the tack that makes most
northing.
Going east from Gibraltar is usually easier,
although it pays to wait for a favourable wester-
ly wind. Timing one's departure to take advantage
of the tide is less important because the west set-
AN31 Gibraltar to Madeira
AN30 ROUTE S FROM GIBRALTAR
ting currents along Europa Point are never strong
enough to pose serious problems. If not bound for
one of the ports along the Spanish Costa de! Sol,
it is better to stay offshore where the winds are usu-
ally steadier. Mediterranean routes from
Gibraltar are described in chapter 22.
The weather in the immediate vicinity of
Gibraltar can be very different from the weather
of the general area. In the southern part of the
Iberian peninsula from Cape St Vincent to
Gibraltar the winds are more variable in all months.
The Portuguese trades are felt less in this area, and
in their absence there is an onshore SW or W sea
breeze. Sailing conditions close to the Strait of
Gibraltar are affected by the geography of the
Strait. The wind usually either blows in or out of
the Strait and can be quite strong at times. The
strong easterly wind is called a Levanter and when
this blows hard against the prevailing east sett"ing
current flowing through the Strait into the
Mediterranean, it creates a short sharp sea, which
can make it very difficult, and occasionally
impossible, to reach Gibraltar from the Atlantic.
The opposing Poniente, which is a strong W or SW
wind, can make it even more difficult to sail in the
opposite direction, out of Gibraltar into the
Atlantic. The Levanter occurs most frequently from
July to October and is associated with rain and
reduced visibility. Also in summer the occasion-
al small depression moves north from Morocco
towards Gibraltar.
55
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Gibraltar should not be left in a strong westerly
wind as the wind reinforced by the permanent flow
of water from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean
makes it almost impossible to beat one's way out
of the Strait. An equally strong easterly wind blow-
ing against the current does not improve matters
much as it creates a short steep sea. Ideally
Gibraltar should be left in light or easterly winds,
but if this is not possible, it is better to keep to the
edges of the Strait where the current is weaker.
Detailed tactics for leaving Gibraltar are
described at the beginning of this section. In day-
light and good visibility one may decide to tack
across to the African shore, where the current is
weaker. Be aware of the large amount of shipping
when crossing the traffic lanes and also to the fast
moving ferry from Algeciras to Tangiers.
In favourable wind and tide conditions, the
course runs parallel to the Spanish coast. Taking
one's departure from WP AN310 an initial course
is set for WP AN311 off Punta Camera. Having left
the Bay of Gibraltar, the course is altered for WP
AN312 south of Tarifa light. The route continues
on this course to keep out of the west going ship-
ping lane. A course of 270 ' will take one to WP
AN313, which clears the shallows off Punta
Paloma. From there a direct course can be set for
Madeira. As the shipping Janes converging on the
Strait of Gibraltar have to be crossed at some point,
tacking across should only be done when Cape
Espartel can be cleared on that tack. The cape, at
the NW point of Africa, should not be
approached too closely because of the overfalls in
its vicinity. A direct course leads to WP AN315 east
of Ilheu de Fora, a rocky islet with a powerful light ,
off the eastern extremity of Madeira. From there
the course runs along the south coast of the island
to the capital Funchal. The alternative is to call first
at Porto Santo and sail to WP AN316 east of llheu
de Cima. Porto Santo should be approached with
care, especially at night, as there are a number of
dangers off its eastern coast.
During the summer months the steady
Portuguese trades usually ensure favourable sail-
ing conditions all the way to Madeira. At the begin-
ning and end of summer, sailing conditions can
be less pleasant and both calms and SW winds m}y
be encountered en route. Passages in May and
November are particularly vulnerable to th.is kind
of weather, but between June and early October
the prevailing northerly winds should provide a
fast sail for most of the way. In strong SW winds,
one may be forced to abandon one's intention to
call at Madeira and continue to the Canaries with-
out stopping. This course of action is taken every
year by boats that have left either Northern Europe
or the Mediterranean too late. As the small mari-
na in Funchal gets extremely crowded in October
and early November with boats stoppfng there on
their way to the Canaries, bypassing Madeira at
this time of year should be considered by anyone
short of time.

AN32 Gibraltar to Canary Islands
Leaving Gibraltar with a favourable tide, one does
not need to go too dose to the Spanish coast. Setting
course for WP AN321, south of Punta Camera,'
avoids any dangers. When leaving the Bay of
Gibraltar, one should watch out for the fast ferry
plying between Algeciras and Tangiers. As far as
Tarlfa it is better to stay in the inshore lane and
steer for WP AN322 approximately 1 mile south
of Tarifa light. This will keep one out of the west-
going shipping lane. From there, a course of 270'
leads to WP AN323 to dear the shallows off Punta
Paloma. As one has to cross the shipping lanes, and
if the winds are westerly, one should only tack
when one is confident of clearing Cape Espartel
on that tack. One should not go too close to this
cape as there are overfalls in the area. By setting
course for WP AN324 one stays clear of an area
of confused seas off Cape Espartel. Better condi-
tions are usually found farther off the African coast
and therefore the course should stay outside the
100 fathom line. This can be done by setting a
course which passes through two intermediate
AN30 R OUTES FROM GIBRALTAR
waypoints, AN325 and AN326.
For boats intending to make their first Canarian
landfall at Lanzarote, a course should be set for
WP AN327 off the small island of Alegranza. The
capital and main port on Lanzarote is Arrecife,
although better docking facilities will be found at
Puerto Calero five miles further down the coast.
If time permits, one should consider stopping first
at Graciosa, a small island north of Lanzarote,
which has a small but well protected port at La
Sociedad, on the north shore of the narrows sep-
arating Graciosa from Lanzarote.
For boats bound directly for Las Palmas and thus
approaching Gran Canaria from the north, the con-
spicuous hump of La Isleta makes a perfect land-
fall. WP AN328 clears all dangers, including El
Roque rock off Punta El Nido. 2.5 miles further
south is the entrance to Las Palrnas harbour, which
in 1994 was being considerably enlarged. The east-
ern breakwater was being extended southwards
and this is only shown on the latest charts.
Sailing conditions to the Canaries are normally
57
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
better than those enco1.1ntered on the way to
Madeira. From June to September the prevailing
northerlies and a favourable current usually pro-
vide excellent sailing conditions along this route.
In May and October the winds are less constant,
although their direction continues to be predom-
inantly northerly. November has a higher incidence
of winds from other directions, but winds from the
AN33 Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles
This long passage is only done without calling
either at Madeira or one of the Canary Islands by
those in a great hurry, as both these island
groups lie close enough to the recommended route
as to warrant a short stop. Directions as far as Cape
Espartel are given in route AN31.
The best time for this passage is in the summer,
but an Atlantic crossing during this time, which
is the hurricane season, cannot be recommended.
Good conditions for a nonstop passage may also
be encountered at the end of spring, beginning of
summer (May or early June), when the chances of
encountering a tropical storm en route are very low.
The route a t such a time will be close to the great
circle course as favourable winds will be found
most of the way across. This would be the case also
during summer when, however, a crossing carries
58
northern quarter are still predominant. The pa&sage
to the Canaries should not be left too late in the sea-
son, as strong SW winds with rough seas can be
encountered on this route after the end of October.
Anyone intending to see more of Jhe Canaries
should plan on stopping first in Lanzarote, which
is the best island from which to start visiting the
Canary Islands in a logical seq~ence.
too many risks, especially at the end of the sum-
mer. If this passage is made during the summer
months, stations broadcasting early warnings of
tropical depressions should be listened to regularly.
As the trade wind belt lies further north during
the summer months, a more direct course can be
sailed across the Atlantic than in winter. Between
May and July the frequency of hurricanes is quite
low, b1.1t it increases after August, reaching a peak
in September.
During the winter months, steady NE winds will
be found only jn lower latitudes, most probably
south of latitude 25N. The route at such a time
will pass between the Canaries and Madeira and,
depending on weather conditions, the strategy to
be employed V(ill be similar to the suggestions
given f<;>r route ANSl (page 72).

AN34 Gibraltar to Northern Europe
Directions to sail through the Strait of Gibraltar
are given in routes AN31 and AN32. [f strong west-
erly winds are encountered after the Strait has been
negotiated, it is better to stay on the port tack and,
if conditions deteriorate, one may seek shelter in
one of the ports or marinas along the northern
shore. The marinas at Lagos and Vilamoura, on the
Algarve coast, are convenient places in which to
wait for a change of weather. See also route AN35.
After the Strait and the shallows off Cape
Trafalgar have been cleared, a course should be set
for WP AN344, 5 miles WSW of Cape St Vincent.
From there the course runs roughly parallel to the
Portuguese coast. During summer the prevailing
AN35 Gibraltar to Portugal
AN30 ROUTES FR OM GIBRALTAR
winds along the western shores of the Iberian
peninsula are the Portuguese trades w hich make
the task of reaching any northern destination
extremely difficult. For those w ho are in a hurry
it is qetter to head immediately offshore by sail-
ing on the tack that makes most northing.
Otherwise it might be easier to make short hops
along the coast until better winds are found or Cape
Finisterre is passed. Westerly winds may not be
found until latitude 45 'N is reached. Occasionally
in late summer SW winds reach gale force in the
Bay of Biscay when conditions can be very rough,
so it is advisable to make this passage before the
m iddle of August.
59
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Directions for negotiating the Strait of Gibraltar are
given in routes AN31 and AN32. From WP
AN353, which clears the shallows off Ponta
Paloma, set course for WP AN354 so as to stay out-
side the shallows off Cape Trafalgar. From this point
the course becomes NNW and runs across the Bay
of Cadiz through shallow waters that rarely
exceed 60 feet. A hazard to watch out for along this
coast are the large tunny nets, which are supposed
to be buoyed and marked by a fishing boat, but
often are not. For this reason it is not prudent to
sail too close inshore, especially at night. The trip
can be broken at Mazagon, at the river entrance into
Huelva, from where Columbus left on his historic
voyage to the New World in 1492. A new marina
is now operating at the river entrance from where
it is possible to visit the various sites associated 'with
Columbus in Palos and the surrounding area. The
entrance to the river is clearly marked by a light
tower and the river is well buoyed. WP AN355 is
AN36 Gibraltar to Azores
60
the landfall buoy one mile SE of the river entrance.
If a strong Levrmter is blowing in the Strait of
Gibraltar, easterly winds will continue into the Bay
of Cadiz, although of diminished strength.
Otherwise, on summer days, there will be an alter-
nation of breezes, a sea breeze from the SW start-
ing around noon to be followed by a lighter land
breeze from the NW.
The Algarve coast has witnessed a huge devel-
opment in recent years and landmarks can be con-
fusing. The entrance into Vilamoura marina is npt
easy to spot to those not familiar with the area,
but WP AN356 about one mile south of the
entrance, should help locate it. Boats bound for the
west coast of Portugal should set course for WP
AN357, 5 miles WSW of Cape St Vincent. From that
point strong northerly winds can be expected dur-
ing summer, but as there is an abundance of good
ports along the entire Portuguese coast this sec-
tion can be easily covered in short hops.

The passage benefits from favourable winds for
at _least the first half, as the prevailing northerly
winds of summer are felt as far as 300 miles off
continental Europe and often further than that. At
some point an area of light winds or calms will be
encountered, after which the winds will probably
come from either W or SW. This will depend entire-
ly on the position of the Azores high. The further
NW this is situated from its normal position, the
higher the likelihood of having favourable NE
winds for most, or all, of the passage to the Azores.
Directions for negotiating the Strait of Gibraltar
are given in routes AN31 and AN32. If strong SW
winds are encountered west of the Strait it is bet-
ter to put into a port, such as Vilamoura (37"04'N,
8"07'W), and wait there for a change. Directions
will then be the same as for route AN35. If strong
winds are encountered after passing Cape St
Vincent, the area of the Gettysburg and Gorringe
Banks (36"30'N, 12·oo·w and 36"45'N, 11 "lO'W)
should be avoided as breaking or confused seas
AN37 Gibraltar to North America
AN30 ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR
have been experienced in that area. Boats intend-
ing to sail nonstop to Horta should set' a course
for WP AN365, 10 miles N of Sao Miguel. Frpm
there the route passes north of Pico. If strong SW
winds are encountered among the islands, one can
either seek shelter in a port on the north coast of
Pico, such as Sao Roque, or sail towards Terceira,
where orte can wait for a change of weather at
Angra do Hero\smo, on that island's south coast.
The direct route to·Ponta Delgada leads to WP
AN366, 3 miles south of Ponta da Gar~a, on the
south coast of the island of Sao Miguel. Boats com-
ing from ports south of Lisbon may prefer to make
their first landfall there rather than further west.
There is a good marina at Ponta Delgada, the cap-
ital of the Azores, which has the best facilities in
the archipelago. Another good starting point for
a cruise among the islands is the island of Santa
Maria, at the southeastern extremity of the arch-
ipelago, from where the other islands can be vis-
ited in logical succession.
_61
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Waypointsi
The majority of boats bound for North America from
the Mediterranean prefer to take the classic route
via the Canaries, which, although considerably
longer, has a higher proportion of favourable winds.
The direct route (AN37A) has certain attractions,
firstly because it can be done at the beginning of
summer, and secondly because it can be much
speedier. The best time for this passage is at the
beginning of summer, but if it is undertaken after
July, attention must be paid to the possibility of hur- ·
ricanes. This applies particularly to those sailing
to ports in areas of the USA affected by tropical
storms. On the other hand, boats bound for
Canadian ports, such as St John's in
Newfoundland, should avoid making the passage
62
early in the season because of the danger of ice.
Directions and waypoints as far as the western end
of the Strait of Gibraltar are the same as those for
route AN36. Having reached the open sea, the direct
route across the Atlantic will depend entirely on
existing weather conditions, which will dictate
whether the Azores are left to port or starboard. A
route south of the Azores direct to Bermuda
(AN37D) has a certain attraction as the winds will
be met at a better angle once the area of prevailing
Sor SW winds is reached close to Bermuda. Boats
bound for Newfoundland and even Nova Scotia will
probably peel off this southern route sooner, but
those heading for ports south of New York may find
a stop in Bermuda too tempting to miss.

As the direct route passes close to the Azores,
most boats make at least a brief stop there after
the first 1000 miles at sea. Whether a stop in the
Azores is intended or not, directions for the route
between Gibraltar and that area are given in routes
AN24 (page 52) and AN36. If a stop in the Azores
is c<:m sidered, from WP AN371 at the western end
of the Strait of Gibraltar, the direct route to Pon ta
Delgada (AN37B) leads to WP AN373, 3 miles
south of Pon ta da Garc;a, on the south coast of the
island of Sao Miguel. Although Ponta Delgada is
closer to this route, and there is a good marina
there, the traditional port of call remains Horta,
on the island of Faial. The latter is probably a bet-
ter starting off point for the subsequent leg
across the Atlantic.
+f intending to sail nonstop to Horta (route
AN37C), from WP AN371 a course should be set
for WP AN374, SE of the island of Terceira.
Depending on weather condiiions, from that
point Horta can be reached by sailing either north
or south of the island of Pico. In strong SW winds
it is better to stay north of Pico and, if the weath-
er deteriorates, one can seek shelter at Sao Roque,
on the north coast of Pico, or at Velas, the main
port on Sao Jorge. Terceira itself has a good har-
bour at Angra do Heroismo, although it is open
to the south and should be avoided in strong winds
AN38 Gibraltar to Atlantic Morocco
AN30 ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR
from that direction. In strong SW winds, the chan-
nel between Pico and Faial, in the approaches to
Horta, can be affected by violent gusts. These, and
the north setting current, should be taken into
account if attempting to enter Horta under such
conditions. A last port in the Azores, where one
can seek shelter and wait for an improvement in
the weather, is at Lajes, on the SE point of Flores,
where a new breakwater has greatly improved the
protection of this port. From the Azores the voy-
age may continue nonstop to one's destination.
Those that have stopped in the Azores should
be prepared to wait there until a good long term
forecast assures a safe and speedy passage for the
continuation of their voyage. Directions for the
routes from the Azores to the USA and Canada are
given in AN138 and AN139 (page 149). Boats plan-
ning to stop in Bermuda may be able to sail a direct
course from the Azores to WP AN375, east of the
entrance into St George's Harbour. Such a direct
route from the Azores to Bermuda has the best
chance of favourable winds. This is described in
detail in AN137(page148). The most likely winds
to be encountered on approaching Bermuda are
from the SW, but if favourable conditions persist
it is best to bypass Bermuda altogether and sail
nonstop to one's final destination.
63
 ---~=--- - - -
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
With the exception of Tangiers, which is conve-
niently located on the south side of the Strait of
Gibraltar, most boat:> avoid calling at Moroccan
ports, although those on the Atlantic coast could
make convenient stops for boats sailing to the
Canaries or West Africa. There are several reasons
I for this reluctance, the m ain ones being the com-
I plicated formalities, bad pollution in the larger
I ports, and frequent theft from visiting yachts.
'/
Facilities for sailing boats are also Jacking,
/1 although the few yacht dubs are generally wel-
Q coming.
Tangiers, being used to receiving large numbers
II
of visiting boats and thus having relatively easi-
er formalities, is often overcrowded. South of Cape
'j AN40 ROUTES FROM MADEIRA
'{
AN41 Madeira to Canary Islands
AN42 Madeira to Lesser Antilles
AN43 Madeira to Azores
AN44 Madeira to Northern Europe
AN45 Madeira to Portugal
AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar
Until not so Jong ago the only yachts that used to
visit Madeira were cruising boats on their way to
the Canaries or Caribbean, and occasionally a few
racing boats from mainland Portugal. The situa-
tion has changed as more boats spend the winter
in the Canaries and use Madeira as a convenient
stopover on their return voyage to the Med-
iterranean. The most frequented route, however,
remains that to the Canaries, which is at its busiest
in October when hundreds of boats make their way
south as part of the annual migration to the
Caribbean. At this time Madeira is crowded with
boats and the marina at Funchal can barely cope
with the amount of visitors. Funchal is best avoid-
ed at such times and a stop in neighbouring Porto
Santo should be considered.
The prevailing summer winds are northeaster-
ly, but because of the height of Madeira, the wind
funnels around and can blow from the SW on the
southern coast when it is NE offshore. The small-
er island of Porto Santo is also high but it does not
block the NE wind which accelerates down the
mountain blowing in gusts in its lee-_ In winter the
winds are more v ariable and come from all direc-
tions . The North Atlantic fronts that move across
Espartel the predominant features are the large
Atlantic swell and the lack of natural harbours,
with the notable exception of Mogador. A restrict-
ed zone is in force between Rabat and
Mohamedia, and any boat straying within 12 miles
of tl1e coast may be chased away by Moroccan navy
vessels. Casablanca is the largest port a long this
coast and, for the time being, has' the best repair
facilities. A fast developing port with adequate
facilities is Agadir, which is used as a base by a
large number of foreign fishing boats. A marina
is under construction in Agadir and, when it is fin-
ished, it will be a convenient place to leave a boat
while visiting the interior of this i nteresting
country.
65
67
67
68
68
69
the ocean from west to east occasionally take a
more southerly track and affect the island, but their
effect is less strong than in the A z ores. Dust haze,
which reduces visibility, can occur when easter-
ly winds blow from the African continent.
A small number of boats choose to ~tart their
Atlantic crossing in Madeira rather than take the
traditional route via the Canaries. Such a decision
makes sense in late winter or spring when the NE
trade winds reach further north and the route from
Madeira to the Caribbean bypasses the Canaries
altogether. Madeira is also a good starting point
if one's West Indian destination is one of the more
northern islands, such as Antigua or Virgins. The
transatlantic route d epends very much on access
to weather information to be able to know how
long one should sail on a SW course before turn-
ing west.
Northbound passages from Madeira are seldom
easy on account of the prevailing northerly
winds. Most boats bound for a port in NW Europe
may prefer to make a detour to the A zores and stop
in one of the easternmost is~ands, such as Santa
Maria or Sao Miguel. If bound for mainland
Portugal one h as little choice and i£ the winds are
 AN40 RO UTES FROM M ADE IRA

40'N

f>.
~f>. f>.
AZORES

0
Santa Maria

AN40 Routes from Madeira

from the NE, as is most likely in summer, one must
be prepared to beat all the way. The same applies
to boats heading for Gibraltar and the
Mediterranean with the added complication that
the NE winds experienced offshore often turn into
easterlies as one approaches the Strait of
Gibraltar. If time permits one should wait in
Madeira for a spell of SW winds, which normal-
ly occur when a depression passes to the north of
the island . Such conditions will ensure a fast pas-
sage all the way into the Mediterranean.

AN41 Madeira to Canary Islands

65
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
This is normally a fast downwind run, particularly
during summer. After the beginning of October,
although northerly winds are still most common,
winds from other directions increase in frequen-
cy. From November onwards strong SW winds
occur at times and rough seas are encountered
between the two island groups. A favourable cur-
rent of approximately 1/2 knot is normally expe-
rienced on this passage.
The direct route passes very close to the
I Salvagem Islands, a group of uninhabited islands
I.I I lying halfway to the Canaries and straddling the
I 30th parallel. The course for Gran Canaria
(AN41A) passes between the two islands and, unless
sailing ·by in good light and weather, the course
should be altered to pass at a safe distance to the
east of Salvagem Grande, such as WP AN411, as
there are a number of dangerous rocks close to the
islands. From there the route continues towards WP
AN412 in the approaches to Las Palmas.
The direct course for Tenerife (AN41B) passes
through WP AN413 at a distance of some 10 miles
west of Salvagem Pequena. Landfall is made at WP
AN414, off Punta de Anaga, the NE point of
,i Tenerife. From there, the course runs parallel to
l the coast to the newly established marina inside
I'
the fishing harbour, some 3 miles north of the cap-
ital Santa Cruz.
The course for Lanzarote (AN41C) passes at a
safe distance to the NE of the Salvagem Islands.
The small island of Alegranza, north of
Lanzarote, can be passed on either side by boats
going directly lo Arrecife. For those who prefer to
stop first at Graciosa, landfall should be made on
the west side of the latter by setting course for WP
AN415 about 5 miles NW of Graciosa, before enter-
ing Estrecho del Rio, the channel separating
Graciosa from Lanzarote. Although not a port of
entry, boats may stop for a short time at La
Sociedad, the main port and settlement on
Graciosa, before proceeding to Arrecife, the cap-
ital of Lanzarote, and clearing in there.
Those intending to stop in one of the Salvagem
Islands must obtain a special permit, which is
issued in Funchal by the Department of Fisheries
within the Autonomous Government of Madeira.
In bad weather, yachts are allowed to anchor in
Enseada das Cagarras (30il8.3'N, 15'52.2'W) on the
SW side of Salvagem Grande, but access ashore is
only allowed to those in possession of a landing
permit. There are wardens stationed on both islands
and they can be contacted on VHF channel 16.
1
i
,iJ

AN42 Madeira to Lesser Antilles
Because of the strategic location of the Canaries
on the route to the Eastern Caribbean, only a small
number of boats choose to sail there directly from
Madeira. Nevertheless, Madeira can make a good
starting point for such a transatlantic passage pro-
vided one has access to a good weather picture of
the North Atlantic which shows the northern lim-
its of the NE trade winds. If these extend as far as
25 Nit is possible to lay a SW course from Madeira
to pass to the west of the Canary Islands.
The waypoints suggested above are based on the
traditional route which initially has a SW slant into
AN43 Madeira to A zores
AN40 R OUT ES FRO M M A DEIR A
lower latitudes, where the likelihood of finding
favourable winds is always higher. At the begin-
ning of winter, however, the trade winds rarely
extend beyond latitude 20"N and if this is the case
one might as well stop in the Canaries as the course
runs virtually through the archipelago. If only a
short stop in the Canaries is envisaged, one should
choose one of the more westerly ports, such as
Santa Cruz de la Palma, which makes a better start-
ing point for the subsequent transatlantic leg.
Detailed routeing information for the transatlantic
passage is given in route AN51 (page 72).
'
r
I
•I
I
,1
I
67
 ..':. -·- .
If
II RO UTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
I During summer, when the Portuguese trade
winds reach as far south as Madeira, this will be
a close hauled passage, although the Azores can
normally be reached on one tack. If leaving from
Funchal, · the high island of Madeira normally
blocks northerly winds so that a light westerly
breeze will be felt until one reaches the end of the
island. From Funchal, the course runs parallel to
the coast as far as Ponta do Pargo, the western
extremity of the island. From WP AN432, off Ponta
do Pargo, a direct course leads to WP AN433 in·
the SE approaches to Vila do Porto, the main
AN44 Madeira to Northern Europe
A nonstop passage to the English Channel is dif-
ficult to accomplish, particularly during the sum-
mer months when the Portuguese trades will force
one to take a long starboard tack. This will put the
boat almost on a heading for the Azores. For this
reason, some boats include the latter on their itin-
erary. ln such a case the same directions apply as
those for route AN43.
During spring, and occasionally also in summer,
a spell of SW winds m~y allow a direct course to
AN45 Madeira to Portugal
harbour of Santa Maria, the most southeastern
Azorean island . The harbour provides good shel-
ter from all directions except the south.
If times allows it, a visit to Porto Santo will pro-
vide a slightly better starting point. In such a case,
from WP AN431, off Porto Santo's SW point, the
route passes on the weather side of Madeira
Grande. This should be passed at"'a safe distance
as in strong northerly winds its north coast is a dan-
gerous lee shore. Landfall will be made at WP
AN433, in the approaches to Vila do Porto.
be sailed to Northern Europe. Having sailed
around the eastern extremity of Madeira, a rhumb
line course, from WP AN442 off Ilheu de Fora to
WP AN443 off Lizard Point in the approaches to
the English Channel, passes some 60 miles west
of Cape Finisterre. Persistent northerly winds are
a feature of summer and so this passage should
be planned for middle or late spring when there
is a better chance of favourable winds.

Mainland Portugal lies to windward of its offshore
dependency for most of the year and therefore this
passage is best undertaken before the onset of the
NE winds of summer. At the beginning of sum-
mer, before they become fully established, these
winds blow in spells of a few days at a time, so it
is wort):i waiting for a lull before leaving. A spate
of strong NE winds is sometimes followed by one
or two days of calms, when it may be possible to
gain some useful mileage by motoring. The occa-
sional front, which may generate SW winds, can
also be used to one's advantage.
Whether bound for .Lisbon (AN45A) or
Vilamoura, on the Algarve coast (AN45B), Porto
Santo makes a better starting point than Funchal.
AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar
AN40 ROUTES FROM MADEIRA
From WP AN451, east of Porto Santo, the direct
course to Lisbon crosses an area of shallows in the
vicinity of the Gettysburg Seamount, which
should be avoided in strong winds because of
br~aking seas. Boats bound for Lisbon should set
a course for WP AN452, dose to the entrance into
South Channel that leads through an area of shal-
lows at the mouth of the Tagus River. The
Portuguese capital lies approximately 8 miles
upstream on the north shore of the river.
The direct course to Vilamoura also starts off
from WP AN451, off the east coast of Porto Santo,
and leads to WP AN453, one mile SW of the
entrance into the marina.
69
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Directions for this route are similar to those for
AN45 with the added complication that any NE
winds, which may have been experienced offshore,
will become easterlies on approaching the Strait
of Gibraltar. Ideally, this passage should be
undertaken in spring when the chances of SW
winds are greater than during summer.
Occasionally, in summer, when strong NE winds
blow offShore, once the longitude of Cape St
Vincent has been passed, local weather conditions
ANSO ROUTES FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS
AN51 Canary Islands to Lesser Antilles
AN52 Canary Islands to Cape Verde Islands
AN53 Canary Islands to West Africa
AN54 Canary Islands to Bahamas
ANSS Canary Islands to Bermuda
AN56 Canary Islands to Azores
AN57 Canary Islands to Madeira
AN58 Canary Islands to Gibraltar
Sailing to the Canaries has never been considered
difficult as the prevailing northerly winds ensure
a fast downwind passage from Europe or the
Mediterranean at most times of the year..This was
the main reason for their popularity in the past as
a port of call for ships on the trade routes to Africa,
the Orient, and the Americas. The type of ship may
have changed with the passing of time but the rea-
sons remain the same for the 1000 or so cruising
boats which call at the Canaries every year. They
arrive almost without exception from the north,
the southbound passages being usually made at
the end of summer or during autumn, for most
modern sailors treat the Canaries as a mere stag-
ing post on their way to the Caribbean, and less
commonly to West Africa or South America.
However, this situation is gradually changing as
more yachts spend longer cruising the Canaries,
while others are making their permanent base or
take over. A SW day breeze can then be expected,
which usually springs up around noon and lasts
as far as the Strait of Gibraltar.
From WP AN461, east of Madeira, or WP AN462,
east of Porto Santo, a direct course leads to WP
AN463, some 5 miles NW of Cape Espartel, in the
approaches to the Strait of Gibraltar. Directions for
negotiating the Strait are given in Routes AN16
and AN21 (pages 44 and 49).
72
74
75
76
77
78
78
79
chartering there. Every year more boats are seen
cruising the islands and the facilities available to
them are constantly improving.
For most boats the main destination on leaving
the Canaries is the Caribbean. The time of depar-
ture from the Canaries is crucial, both for the con-
ditions to be encountered en route and those
expected on the other side of the ocean. The hur-
ricane season in the Caribbean in theory lasts about
six months, although the really dangerous peri-
od is August to October, with September the peak
month for hurricanes. Most sailors plan to cruise
the West Indian islands between December and
April, which is not only the safest time of year but
also has the pleasantest weather, with little rain,
agreeable temperatures, and the trade winds blow-
ing steadily throughout the winter months.
Therefore a late November or early December
d eparture from the Canaries suits most people' s

BERMU,DA
(!]
AN54
3328
• LESSER
: ANTILLES
ANSO Routes from tlie Canary Islands
plans and this is the time when the majority of
boats leave the Canaries for their transatlantic pas-
sage. An earlier departure is not recommended,
mainly because of the risk of a late hurricane, but
also because the winter trades are seldom estab-
lished before the second half of November. From
the end of November until April the NE trade
winds usually blow south of 20 'N, their average
strength gradually increasing during February and
March. Although winds continue t9 be
favourable, summer passages are not recom-
mended for reasons of safety as the risk of hurri-
canes is too high. As most passages take place in
late November or early December, the tradition-
al practice has been to reach lower latitudes as
quickly as possible thereby maximising the
chances of finding the trade winds. Another good
reason to make sou thing on leaving the Canaries
is to be out of the influence of the Atlantic lows.
Low pressure systems moving across the. Atlantic
in winter occasionally deviate from their usual NE
AN50 ROUTE S FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS
4o•w 20•w
,,
AZORES
AN55
2894
,,. ,
AN51
2819
•
CAPE VERDE
ISLANDS
4-0' W w·w
track and reach eastwards as far south as latitude
40'N and even lower. As a consequence, SW or W
winds are generated as far south as latitude 20 'N,
and occasionally even further south. For those
unable to obtain up to date information on the
weather systems of the North Atlantic the best tac-
tic is to make most of their crossing on the latitude
of their Caribbean destination, or even slighthly
further north in the case of those boung for Antigua
or the Virgin Islands.
Although the majority of boats leaving the
Canaries are bound for the Caribbean, usually
direct or less commonly via the Cape Verdes, there
are some who first spend some time cruising West
Africa before setting off across the Atlantic. The
best time to sail south to either the Cape Verdes
or West Africa is winter, when favourable winds
will be found all the way to Senegal. The Canaries
are also a useful springboard for those sailing to
Brazil or other destinations in South America.
Sailing from the Canaries to the Mediterranean or
71
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Northern Europe is a more difficult undertaking
on account of the prevailing northerlies that make
passages in the opposite direction so easy. The best
route for a return voyage to Northern Europe is
via Madeira and possibly the Azores. A detour to
Madeira ought be considered by those whose des-
tination is Gibraltar or ports on the south coast of
the Iberian peninsula. Although the prevailing
winds are from NE, winds from SW are not uncom-
mon at the end of spring or beginning of summer,
when most boats bound for the Mediterranean
make this passage. The suggested stop in Madeira
or Porto Santo allows one to wait there for a
favourable change of weather.
The prevailing winds in the Canaries are NE
throughout the year, being strongest in July and
August and lightest in October and November. The
high volcanic islands cause some local variations
in both wind direction and strength. As a rule there
ANS! Canary Islands to Lesser Antilles
7?
are different winds in the lee of the islands com-
pared to the coasts exposed to the trade winds.
When the NE trades are blowing strongly, an
opposing wind usually blows on the other side of
the island, varying in strength with the strength
of the trade wind. A funnelling effect is also felt
along the coasts of some of the mountainous
islands and the trades can be ac~elerated by up to
15 knots in places.
The Atlantic lows rarely come as far south as the
Canaries, although small lows do develop near the
islands themselves and move northeast towards
Gibraltar or east towards Africa. Gales are rare,
although occasionally these local depressions bring
strong Sor SW winds. In summer months a strong
easterly wind can blow hot from Africa, the air
being laden with dust, which reduces visibility con-
siderably.

This classic trade wind route has been plied by an
- enormous variety of vessels in the 500 years since
Christopher Columbus himseli set sail from the
Canary Islands to expand the limits of the known
world. Although a lot has been learnt about pre-
vailing winds and weather forecasting in the inter-
vening years, the routeing suggestions made by
Columbus as a result of his four voyages to the
Caribbean are still valid and can hardly be
improved upon. His two fastest passages took 21
days, an excellent time even by today's standards,
following a track very close to the optimum route
for the time of year. On both those voyages, a SW
course was sailed by the fleet until steady trade
winds were found in the vicinity of latitude 20'N
and only then was the cou rse changed to the west.
This essential rule of not setting a course.for the
d esired destination until well.inside the trade wind
belt has been followed to advantage by all navi-
gators since.
On leaving Las Palmas it is usually best to sail
due south before altering course to SW. The only
time w hen it may pay to go around the north of
Gran Canaria is in SW winds and then only if it
is possible to pass the SE extremity of Tenerife on
one tack. The alternative is to stay on the port tack
and pass north of Tenerife. and then south of La
Palma. However, these are unusual conditions
since over 90 per cent of the time winds are from
the northerly quarter and therefore a southerly
course, as recommended, should be taken.
Having left Las Palmas at WP AN510, one mile SSE
of the harbour, one should not be tempted to turn
SW too soon as the wind shadow of the island can
extend as far as 20 miles. A convenient point to
make for is WP AN511. Depending on weather con-
ditions, from there a course can be set to WP
AN514. This was the traditional turning point, from
where sailing boats used to set course for the island
of destination. With better weather information at
their disposal, modem navigators should only use
this waypoint as a point of reference and make for
it only if such action is justified by existing weath- swell. The swell itseli is only regular and steady
er conditions.
Boats l~aving from other ports in the Canaries ' same quarter over a longer period, othe!wise a
have the choice of passing south 9r north of El
Hierro. If leaving from Los Cristianos, on the south
coast of Tenerife, from WP AN512 a course can be
set for WP AN513 and thence for WP AN514.
Another popular departure port is Santa Cruz on
the island of La Palma. On leaving that port, a
southerly course should be taken to the southern
AN50 R OUTES FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS
tip of the island, from where the course should be
set for WP AN514.,
Every book that has been written on transatlantic .
voyaging has something to say about the optimum
route for a trade wind crossing, although very lit-
tle can be added to what Columbus found out him-
self. The first concern is to move as soon as possible
out of the region of calms and variable winds which
surround the Canary Islands. With a bit of luck a
northerly wind may spring up; otherwise one must
be prepared to wait or motor. The old advice to
make for a point at 25 'N'25 'W needs some qual-
ification as the winter trades seldom blow con-
sistently as far north as latitude 25 "N, so this
suggestion should only be followed in summer
time. A more valid and often repeated suggestion
was to sail SSW for 1000 miles on leaving the
Canaries to pass between 200 and 300 miles north-
west of the Cape Verde Islands before turning west.
This suggestion to pass close to the Cape Verdes
still makes sense as steady ENE winds are usual-
ly found in their latitude. Nevertheless the added
mileage of such a detour must also be taken into
account. A more direct route, which crosses lati-
tude 20'N in about 30'W (WP AN514) and latitude
15°N in ~bout 40'W (WP AN515), will probably
find the trad e winds slightly later but has the
advantage of being shorter. Unfortunately there
is no hard and fast rule, as weather can vary from
one year to another and in some years successful
fast passages have been made by boats taking the
shortest route across.
The direction of the NE trade winds becomes
more easterly as one mov.e s west, and they usu-
ally includ e a southern component as summer
approaches. Their strength is not very consistent
either and the average force 4 mentioned in some
publications is simply an average and nothing else.
Although gale force winds are rarely experienced
in winter, except in squalls, between Dei::ember and
March the trades can blow at force 6 for days on
end accompanied by a correspondingly high
in direction if the wind has been blowing from the
cross swell is not uncommon on this route, with
·a wind swell being superimposed over another
swell generated by some storm many thousands
of miles away. In some years the uncomfortable
swell has caused more complaints among transat-
lantic voyagers than the strength of wind, or the
lack of it. It would appear that practically no voy-
73
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
age is spared at least one calm period on this run,
such calms lasting from a few hours to several days.
They are usually followed by a burst of trade winds
heralded by a procession of squalls. This route has
the benefit of both the Canary Current and North
Equatorial Current which set SW and Wat an aver-
age rate of 1/2 knot. Their constancy, however, is
not too reliable, although their direction is.
The above directions apply with small adjust-
ments to all destinations in the Lesser Antilles, from
Trinidad in the south to Antigua in the north. After
the trade winds have been found the best course
can be set for any particular island and the last few
hundred miles will probably be sailed on its lat-
itude. The route to the Virgin Islands passes so
close to Antigua that it is advisable to make land-
fall there before proceeding. The same recom-
mendation applies in the case of any islands to
leeward of Antigua.
The most popular transatlantic landfalls in the
Eastern Caribbean are:
AN516 St Lucia, 4 miles east of Cape Marquis,
AN52 Canary Islands to Cape Verde Islands
This route is sailed by boats using the Cape Verde
Islands as an intermediate stage either in their
transatlantic voyage or en route to West Africa. As
one of the recommended routes from the Canaries
to the Lesser Antilles passes NW of these islands,
a detour is easily accomplished. Although only basic
provisions are available in Mindelo, on Sao Vicente,
the main island of the group, the Cape Verde Islands
make a good starting point for the transatlantic voy-
age because they lie in the trade wind belt and fast
passages have been made along their latitude. Most
boats which break their Atlantic crossing there do
74
on the !\TE coast of St Lucia. Having sailed along
the north coast of St Lucia, the marina in Rodney
Bay makes an excellent landfall where entry for-
malities can be completed.
AN517 Martinique, 3 miles SSE of Martinique.
The nearest place to complete formalities is Cul
de Sac du Marin, a small p~pt on the SE tip of
the island. This is more convenient than the cap-
ital Fort de France, which is another 25 miles up
the coast.
AN518 Barbados, 9 miles east of South Point, the
southern extremity of Barbados. The Shallows,
lying SE of that point, should be avoided in
heavy weather as the seas break over them.
Fornialities are completed in the commercial port
of Bridgetown, north of Carlisle Bay, the rec-
ommended anchorage.
AN519 Antigua SE, 2 miles SSE of English
Harbour on the SE coast of Antigua.
Formalities can be completed in the nearby his-
toric port of English Harbour.
so to refill their fuel tanks. Unless one is dangerously
low on fuel, or determined to visit the islands, such
a stop in the Cape Verdes makes little sense as much
less fuel will be needed to reach the Caribbean than
will have been used up to get from the c;anaries to
the latitude of the Cape Verdes. Rather than burn
up additional fuel to reach them, it is better to ration
one's consumption earlier and sail the most fuel effi-
cient cour5e from the Canaries.
Those who intend to stop in one of the Cape Verde
Islands should set a direct course from WP AN521,
south of Gran Canaria, to WP A."J522, north of Sao

Vicente. During the winter months, from the mid-
dle of December or early January to April, the NE
trades blow strongly between the Canary and Cape
Verde Islands. Fast passages are aided by the SW
setting Canary Current which merges with the
North Equatorial Current in the vicinity of the
islands. The visibility near the islands is often poor,
either because of haze or the dust-laden harmat-
tan which blows here in winter. In October and
November, winds between the two island groups
are less constant in direction, although the NE
trades gradually become established as one
approaches the Cape Verde Islands. The area south
of the Cape Verde Islands is subject to the SW mon-
soon from June to October, although the frequency
of southe!ly winds is very low north of latitude
AN53 Canary Islands to West Africa
An increasing number of boa ts sail to West Africa,
some of them en route to Brazil, others just mak-
ing a detour before crossing the Atlantic to the
Caribbean. The situation for cruising boats is grad-
ually improving in this region which has many
attractions, as both officials and local people are
getting used to the influx of foreign sailors.
The best time to make the passage south is in win-
ter, when favourable winds will be found all along
the coasts of Mauritania and Senegal. The NE trade
I.
ANSO ROUTES FROM THE C>\NARY ISLANDS
lS'N, even at the height of the SW monsoon. The
strongest and most consistent north winds
between the two island groups have been record-
ed in summer, between July.and September, when
as much as 90 per cent of the winds are from the
north.
There are three official ports of entry: Mindelo
(16'53'N, 25'00'W), Praia (14 "54'N, 23'31'W), and Sal
(16 '45'N, 23 'OO'W). The first two ports have better
provisions and facilities, whereas Sal has an inter-
national airport, which is its main attraction for
those needing to make a crew change or fly home
in an emergency. To visit any place in the Cape Verde
Islands outside of the above ports, one needs spe-
cial written permission from immigration obtain-
able when clearing in at one of those ports.
winds blow consistently as far as the latitude of
Dakar, but south of latitude 13 'N they become
increasiiigly light, and below latitude 10"N may
become variable. South of the latitude of Dakar, the
winds are affected by the SW monsoon of summer
when SW and W winds predominate. The current
along the African coast; as far as Dakar, always sets
,.
to the south. Further south, a contrary current may
be experienced during the SW monsoon.
Boats leaving from Las Palmas should make for
75
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
WP AN531 south of Gran Canaria, from where a
course should be set for WP AN532, 60 miles off
Cap Blanc. If not intending to stop in Mauritania,
it is recommended to stay well offshore to avoid
not only the shallow wa ters and large number of
fishing boats but also the risk of being stopped·and
possibly boarded by a Mauritanian naval vessel
patrolling the disputed area of former Spanish
Sahara. Those who intend to call at Nouadhibou,
the main port of Mauritania, should approach the
coast with great caution and attempt to make land-
fall NW of Cap Blanc at daybreak so as to reach
port in daylight. If continuing to Senegal, St Louis,
at the extreme north of that country, on the bor-
der with Mauritania, has been used as a port of
entry into Senegal, but the entrance has a dan-
gerous breaking bar and is therefore difficult to
enter in a sailing yacht.
Boats bound for Dakar should sail the same route
as far as WP AN532 from where the next WP
AN533 is approximately 10 miles off Cap Vert,
north of Dakar. The area should be approached
with caution on account of the heavy traffic. Cap
Vert, a traditional graveyard for ships, should also
be given a wide berth. Boats entering Dakar must
pass south and east of Goree Island. The recom-
mended anchorage for yachts is in position
14 °42.7'N, 17"25.S'W.
If sailing from Dakar to Banjul, the time of arrival
at the entrance into the river Gambia should be
planned to coincide with a rising tide. Boats not
AN54 Canary Islands to Bahamas
With the exception of Christopher Columbus, who
sailed this route in 1492 and thereby established
a permanent link between the Old and New
Worlds, few modem boa ts attempt to sail nonstop
stopping at Dakar bound for Banjul should stay
well off Cap Vert and, having passed it, set a course
for WP AN534 NW off Bald Cape in the
approaches to Banjul, the capital and only port of
entry into Gambia. As the harbour entrance is
encumbered by shoals, entering the harbour at
night is not recommended. The anchorage used by
visiting yachts is in position 13'2°6.S'N, 16 "34.S'W,
but as there have been many reports of theft from
yachts one should either take adequate safety mea-
sures or find another anchorage. Permission to take
the boat up the river Gambia, which is navigable
for about 200 miles, can be obtained from the har-
bour master in Banjul.
All rivers in this area are navigable and even
keeled boats can travel far inland. A poP.ular river
with visiting yachts is the Casaman~e, which
belongs to Senegal and lies south of the Gambian
enclave. The main town on the Casamance is
Ziguinchor (12 "35'N, 16 "16.S'W), located some 50
miles upriver. Boats must clear in first at Dakar
and, at the time of writing, could not clear into
Senegal at Ziguinchor. Officials occasionally
check papers at Elinkine, some 30 miles down-
stream of Ziguinchor and a main tourist centre
(12"30'N, 16 "40'W). Also navigable is the river
Saloum, with many cruising attractions in its lower
reaches. French charts for these West African
countries are reported to be better than the
British or American charts.
to the Bahamas. In 1992, on the occasion of the
quincentenary of that historic voyage, this tradi-
tional route was sailed by many boats, their crews
commemorating in this way the deeds of one of

the greatest navigators in history. The route can
be useful for boats intending to sail to the south-
ern USA directly from the Canaries.
Being unaware of the hurricane season in the yet
to be discovered lands he was heading for,
Columbus made his passage from the Canaries in
September and was extremely fortunate in having
good weather throughout, or the history of the
world might have been very different. Armed with
modern knowledge about the behaviour of West
Indian hurricanes, the passage should not be
attempted before the end of November. For the
transatlantic section of the voyage directions are sim-
ilar to those detailed in route AN51. However,
depending on weather conditions, it may not be nec-
essary to dip as far south as do the boats going to
islands in the Southern Caribbean. If the trade winds
extend as far north as 20 'N, or even further, it should
be possible to lay a fairly direct course acro.s s.
AN55 Canary Islands to Bermuda
The number of boats sailing nonstop from the
Canaries to Bermuda is relatively smaJI, probably
because the best sailing conditions on this route
coincide with the start of the hurricane season in
the Western Atlantic. The greatest frequency of hur-
ricanes in Bermuda itself has been recorded from
mid-August to mid-October, June and July being
considered relatively safe months.
For anyone in a hurry to return to the USA, this
direct route has much to recommend it and fast
passages have been recorded. If the voyage is made
during the safe season, from November to April,
the winter trades are so far south that a detour to
find them would take the track so close to the
Lesser AntiJles that it would be just as easy to make
a stop there. As the sun changes its declination and
ANSO RO UTES FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS
Whichever course is chosen for the Atlantic
crossing itself, on approachlng the islands of the
Eastern Caribbean, one should attempt not to sail
below WP AN541 so as to stay well clear of such
islands as Anguila and Sombrero, which have
claimed too many ships in the past. From there,
the course should stay well offshore to pass the
Turks and Caicos group at a safe d istance before
closing with San Salvador, which is marked by a
powerful light. After landfall is made at WP
AN542, 5 miles SE of Sandy Point, the SW
extremity of San Salvador, the west of the island
should be passed at a safe distance before
approaching the main settlement at Cockburn
Town. Entry formalities can be completed there or
one mile further north at Riding Rock Marina,
which has a difficult entrance with a maximum
depth of 7 ft at hlgh tide.
starts moving north, the trade wind belt does the
same and, in spring or early summer, a passage
to Bermuda can be done between latitudes 20 ' and
25 'N. Constant NE and later E winds will be found
along these latitudes for most of the transatlantic
voyage. The temptation should be resisted to alter
course for Bermuda too soon as this leads into an
area of variable winds. One should therefore aim
for WP AN551 so that Bermuda is approached from
the SSE. For the remaining distance the winds
should be from the SW, which are the prevailing
winds in Bermuda during summer. Landfall
should be made at WP AN552 east of St David's
Head, in the approaches to the Town Cut which
leads into St George's Harbour, where entry for-
malities are completed.
77
j~f
H ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA N TI C
l
Ii
Ii
,,
The most likely winds in summer will be from
theNE making this a dose hauled passage, espe-
cially if one leaves from one of the more western
islands such as La Palma. A contrary current of up
to 1 /2 knot may also be experienced. Although the
Azores are considered to be outside the tropical
storms area, very rarely such storms have reached
the archipelago. Such occurrences are well forecast
so that adequate precautions can be taken.
Taking as a departure point WP AN561 NE of
La Palma, the direct course to Ponta Delgada, the
AN57 Canary Islands to Madeira
capital of the Azores, leads so close to the island
of Santa Maria, that one may decide to stop first
at its main port of Vila do Porto. In such a case,
course should be set for WP AN562, 2 miles south
of that harbour. An alternative destination is Horta,
on the island of Faial. In this case, landfall can be
made at WP AN563, 3 miles SE of the port of Horta.
If leaving the Canaries from one of the islands
east of Tenerife, the voyage can be interrupted in
Madeira from where the same directions apply as
for route AN43 (page 67).

As the prevailing winds of summer are from the
northern quarter, this passage is best undertaken
either in the spring or autumn. Ideally, one
should wait for a spell of southerly winds before
leaving the Canaries. At any time, but particularly
during summer, it may be easier to sail first to
Lanzarote from where the winds will be at a bet-
ter angle for the subsequent leg to Madeira. In such
a case, the best departure point from the Canaries
is the small island of Graciosa, north of
Lanzarote.
The direct Toute from both Tenerife and Gran
Canaria passes close to the Salvagem Islands,
AN58 Canary Islands to Gibraltar
The recommended time to make this passage is in
late spring before the onset of the NE winds of sum-
mer. If persistent northerly winds are met after
leaving the Canaries, it may be necessary to break
the voyage in Madeira and stop at either Funchal
or Porto Santo and wait for the weather to
change. One may also wait for such a change at
the anchorage on Salvagern Grande (see route
AN57).
AN50 ROUTES FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS
which lie approximately halfway between the two
island groups. As landing in these islands is pro-
hibited without a permit and the area surround-
ing them has many dangers, it is best to pass them
at a safe distance. Jn an emergency it is possible
to seek shelter in the anchorage at Cagarras Bay
(30 "08.3'N, 15"52.2'W), on the SW side of
Salvagem Grande, where the resident caretaker is
based. From Salvagem Grande the route for
Madeira must avoid a number of dangers north
0
of the island before a direct course can be set for
Funchal.
I
!
.!
If weather conditions alloo/ a relatively direct
route to be sailed from Las Palmas, a course should
be set for an intermediate WP AN582. From there
a new course should be set to WP AN583, some 5
miles NW of Cape Espartel, in the approa.c hes to
the Strait of Gibraltar. Directions for negotiating
the Strait are given in routes AN16 and AN21
(pages 44 and 49).
79
 . .;.;. ·, -· ·- ·.

RO UTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN60 ROUTES FROM THE CAPE VERDE

ISLANDS AND WEST AFRICA
AN61 Cape Verde Islands to Azores
AN62 Cape Verde Islands to Lesser Antilles
AN63 West Africa to Azores
AN64 West Africa to Lesser Antilles
AN65 West Africa to Northern Brazil and Guyanas
The former Portuguese colony of the Cape Verde
Islands is a group of small islands 200 miles off
the coast of West Africa which used to be a busy
coaling station frequented by intercontinental
steamers. They have been rediscovered as a con-
venient stopover for those wishing to shorten their
transatlantic passage to the Caribbean or intend-
ing to make their landfall in Brazil. As the Cape
Verdes lie in the NE trade wind belt, the prevail-
ing wind is NE most of the year, being stronger
from February to June, when winds of25 knots or
81
82
82
83 ....
84
more blow most of the time. As the convergence
zone moves to its most northerly position in sum-
mer months there are more variable winds, with
fresh southerlies in August and September, the time
of the SW monsoon.
In neighbouring West Africa, the strong NE
trades blowing across continental Africa between
December and February can produce harmattan
winds. These often create a dust haze and cover-
the boat and sails in reddish dust. Distinguished
by a yellow sky and a blurred horizon, this haze

60'W 40' W

40'N

BERMUDA
a

• LESSER
: ANTILLES AN62
2085

40°W 2o·w
AN60 Routes from the Cape Verde Islands and West Africa
 AN60 ROUTES FROM THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS AND WEST AFRICA
not only reduces visibility to a few hundred yards,
but even when the visibility is several miles it
makes it very difficult to estimate distances at sea
until land or an object is seen. Therefore great care
must be taken when approaching the Cape Verde
Islands during these conditions.
For a taste of Africa, some of the best cruising
on that continent is to be found in Senegal and
Gambia with the possibility of navigating the larg-
er rivers in this area. Although cruising in West
Africa is usually incorporated into a longer voy-
age by those making a more southerly Atlantic
crossing to Brazil, the number of cruising boats is
steadily increasing. As in some other parts of the
world, the first to discover these new cruising
AN61 Cape Verde Islands to Azores
Northerly winds blow on average 80 per cent of
the time on the route between these island
groups. Therefore the optimum time for this pas-
sage is late spring or early summer when the pro-
portion of NE winds is higher than at other times
and, depending on the type of boat, one may be
able to lay the Azores on one tack. An additional
bonus may be provided by a depression inter-
secting one's track in higher latitudes, and
although the resulting SW winds may cause
uncomfortable conditions at least they will be
blowing from a favourable direction. SW winds
are quite rare in the latitude of the Cape Verdes,
although they do occur during summer so it may
I be worth waiting for a spell of SW winds before
L
I ...
.1. .
grounds were French sailors, who were aided by
the fact that some of the countries are former
French colonies and French is widely spoken. The
best time to visit the area is during the winter
months, from December to April, when temper-
atures are pleasant and there is little rain. The sum-
mer months are hot, humid, and wet.
Transatlantic passages starting from either
West Africa or the Cape Verdes do not present
major problems as the winds are usually
favourable. More difficulties are experienced by
boats intending to return to Europe; they have to
beat against the prevailing NE winds and most
break the trip in the Azores.
leaving the Cape Verdes. Winds in the latter part
of the passage are greatly influenced by the posi-
tion of the Azores high. Being able to obtain up
to date weather information can be a great bonus
as it helps one choose the more favourable tack.
There are several destinations in the Azores, such
as Ponta Delgada, the capital of the archipelago.
The route passes so closely to the island of Santa
Maria, that one may decide to stop first at its main
port of Vila do Porto. Because of the NE winds,
which will have been encountered en route, a more
likely landfall will be further west, such as at Horta
on the .island of Faial, or even Lajes on the west-
ernmost island of Flores.
81

ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~---------
AN62 Cape Verde Islands to Lesser Antilles
Columbus was first to see the attraction of these
islands as a better springboard for a trade wind
passage across the Atlantic than the Canaries and
he set off on his third voyage to the Caribbean from
here. The advantage of this route is not only that
the actual transatlantic passage is shorter but also
that the Cape Verdes are situated for most of the
year in the heart of the NE trades. Fast passages
AN63 West Africa to Azores
82
... ·::
are usually logged by boats starting of{from the
Cape Verdes provided their course does not dip
too far south into an area where the trade winds
become less constant. A great circle course is usu-
ally the best route to take across. More detailed
directions for the transatlantic passage are given
in route AN51 (page 72).
l
..
 AN60 ROUTES FROM THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS AND WEST AFRICA
As explained in route AN61, NE winds predom-
inate in the area south of the Azores and passages
should therefore be timed for a period when the
proportion of such winds is lowest. Starting off
from one of the West African ports, as opposed to
the Cape Verdes, has the obvious advantage of a
better angle in relation to the prevailing winds, so
unless one has a very good reason to stop in the
Cape Verdes, the valuable easting should not be
lost.
· If leaving from Dakar, the recommended route
passes east of the Cape Verdes, and should the need
arise, the island of Sal (16 '45'N, 23 'OO'W) is in the
most convenient position for a landfall. It can be
assumed that the trade winds will be lost around
25 'N from where it should be easier to make the
necessary northing. ·North of latitude 30'N the
winds and weather are very much dependent on
the position of the Azores high. If this lies further
south than its usual seasonal position, light
AN64 West Africa to Lesser Antilles
Whether leaving from a port in Senegal or the
Gambia, steady favourable winds will be encoun-
tered on this route throughout the winter months.
If winds are westerly on leaving continental Africa,
winds can be expected in the vicinity of the Azores.
There are several destinations in the Azores, such
as Ponta Delgada, the capital of the archipelago.
As the route passes closely to the island of Santa
Maria, a first stop could be made at its main port
of Vila do Porto. Because of the NE winds earlier
in the passage, a more likely landfall will be fur-
ther west, such as at Horta on the island of Faial.
The timing of this passage may also depend on
the destination after the Azores. It is not advisable
to attempt this passage before April to give the
strong NE winds of winter a chance to diminish
in strength. Scmth of latitude 15 'N they are
replaced in summer by the SW monsoon, which
blows between Senegal and the Cape Verde
Islands from June to October. The start of the SW
monsoon is therefore the best time to leave West
Africa for the Azores as it would ensure go(\d
winds at least for the early part of .the voyage.
which is not unusual durfug the summer months,
it is recommended to stay on the starboard tack.
As one moves offshore, the winds will veer, allow-
ing one to pass the Cape Verdes without tacking.
83
 1
RO UTES I N THE NORTH ATLANTIC
:111
lr~I
From the Cape Verdes onwards thls route is sim-
ilar to route AN62. As the Cape Verdes are so close
to the direct route it may be convenient to stop
there before proceeding west. If leaving from main-
land Africa direct, especially from more southern
ports, attention must be paid to the currents both
in the vicinity of the coast and during the transat-
AN65 West Africa to Northern Brazil and Guyanas
This passage is best undertaken during winter
when the NE trade winds reach further south.
If leaving from a port south of the river Gambia,
a NW course should be sailed first to avoid an area
of light and variable winds close to the equator.
If leaving from Senegal, the recommended route
passes south of the Cape Verde Islands. In both
cases, a course should be set for WP AN653. This
intermediate waypoint is suggested to avoid the
effects of a contrary current which has been
observed south of lO"N. If the port of destination
lies south of this latitude, the course can be set
for it once the recommended waypoint has been
passed. The North Equatorial Current will give a
boost along most of this route. A strong current
sets northwards along the coast of South America
and this must be taken into account when
making landfall. Dangerous shallow areas extend
off the coast, especially near river mouths. If enter-
ing any of these rivers, attention must be paid to
84
lantic passage. Sailing too close to the southern
limit of the NE trades should be avoided as there
is a danger of being pushed by a branch of the
North Equatorial Current towards the doldrums
and an area of less steady winds. More details con-
cerning the Atlantic crossing are given in route
AN51 (page 72).
'
.•
the strong tides.
This route is often sailed by boats heading for
Belem and the Amazon River. Although such a des-
tination would make this into a transequatorial
route, in order to ensure better conditions during
the crossing the latter should be done north of the
equator. Knowing the position pf the ITCZ,
shown on satellite pictures obtained by weather-
fax, is essential in such a case so as to minimise
the time spent under its influence. Very slow pas-
sages with violent squalls and a contrary current
have been recorded during summer. The ma"in rea-
son for crossing at such a time is to arrive in
Amazonia at the start of the dry season (July).
The three former Guyanas, French (Cayenne),
Dutch (Suriname), and British Guyana attract a
small number of cruising boats. Entry formalities
in French Guyana are completed at Degrad des
Cannes. The port of entry for Suriname is
Paramaribo, approximately 13 miles up the

Suriname River, where boats now clear in at the
new harbour, Nieu Haffen. The least visited of the
AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES
AN71 Lesser A ntilles to Venezuela
AN72 Lesser Antilles to ABC Islands
AN73 Lesser Antilles to Colombia
AN74 Lesser Antilles to Panama
AN75 Lesser Antilles to Greater Antilles
AN76 Lesser A ntilles to Baham as
AN77 Lesser-A:ntifles. to Nerth America
AN78 Lesser A ntilles to Bermuda
AN79 Lesser Antilles to Azores
The Windward and Leeward Islands continue to
be the most popular cruising destination in the
North Atlantic and, although commonly referred
to as the Caribbean, their correct name is the Lesser
Antilles. The majority of sailors, whether coming
from Europe or North America, usually spend a
season cruising the islands before embarking on
the return voyage home. The greatest exodus takes
place between the middle of April and the end of
May, when most boats leave either for Bermuda
• or directly for the Azores. The rou te to Bermuda
is used both by boats sailing to the east coast of
North America and by Europeans returning
home. The direct route to the Azores, without call-
ing at Bermuda, has been gaining in popularity in
recent years as it shortens the distance by sever-
al hundred miles, even if favourable winds are the
exception rather than the rule on this direct route
which crosses both the Horse Latitudes and the
infamous Sargasso Sea.
Much more wind is experienced by those head-
ing across the Caribbean Sea proper, most of whom
are bound for the Panama Canal. If this passage
is made in winter, when the trade winds are at their
strongest, large seas can be expected on the way
to Panama. The situation improves with the
approach of summer and passages in April and
May are more comfortable. Rather than sail
directly to Panama, many boats now cross the
C<)ribbean Sea in shorter stages by calling at the
offshore islands of Venezuela, the Dutch islands
of Aruba, Bonaire and Curac;ao, and also
Colombia. In Panama itself, the islands of San Blas
AN 7 0 ROUTE S FRO M T HE L ES SER A NTILL ES
three is Guyana itself, where the only official p ort
of entry is its capital Georgetown.
87
87
88
89
90
91
92
94
95
continue to be one of the most fascinating desti-
nations in the area. The main advantage of cruis-
ing along the northern coast of South America in
easy stages is 'that the area is rarely affected by trop-
ical storms. Occasionally, however, ·a hurricane
does reach Venezuela or the SW part of the
Caribbean, so if possible even this area should be
avoided during summer, from the end of July until
the end of October.
Although most sailors bound for the US east
coast take their leave from the Eastern Caribbean
in one of the northern islands, such as Antigua,
St Martin, or one of the Virgins, a less frequented
route to the USA is one which crosses the
Caribbean Sea. Such a sou thern route has certain
attractions for anyone bound for Florida or one of
the southern states. Leaving from one of the south-
ern islands in the Eastern Caribbean, such as St
Lucia, the route stays south of Puerto Rico as far
as the Mona Passage from where it continues north
of Hispaniola and on to the Bahamas._The other,
probably more attractive, alternative is to take the
offshore route south of all the Greater Antilles, with
possible stops in Jamaica, Grand Cayman, or
Cuba. Such a route is described in detail in AN83,
and although it originates in the Virgins, condi-
tions would be similar if one left from one of the
islands to the south.
One of the main attractions of the Lesser
Antilles is their weather. During winter months
the NE trades blow with regularity and both day
and night temperatures are pleasantly warm. The
average temperature rarely varies from 26- 28"C
85
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA N TIC
AN70 Routes from the Lesser Antilles
throughout the year. In late summer and autumn,
when the trades ease up, the threat of hurricanes
spoils this perfection. The number of boats that
carry on cruising during this period is relatively
small because of the fear of being caught out by
a hurricane. Although not recommended, it is pos-
sible to cruise, provided some basic precautions
are observed. From the middle of December until
the end of April, the trad e winds blow between
NE and ENE, usually at a constant 15-20 knots.
Occasionally these increase to 25-30 knots for a few
days and can have stronger gusts, especially in late
January and early February. As summer
approaches the wind tends to veer SE and even
S, gradually returning to the E and NE towards
the end of the year. In summer months the winds
are lighter, from 12-15 knots in June through to
September. This is the rainy season, particularly
from August into November.
86
20' N
Occasionally the weather is interrupted by an
Easterly Wave, a low pressure trough, which moves
westward and can develop into a hurricane.
Whenever the wind shifts to the north during the
summer months, a stiff blow can be expected. West
Indian hurricanes usually form about 800 miles to
the east of Barbados and track north and west.
Hurricanes are more frequent in the more north-
ern Leeward Islands than in the Windward
Islands lying further south, and rarely strike the
most southerly islands such as Grenada. The like-
lihood of experiencing such a storm is less the fur-
ther south and east one is at the height of the .
hurricane season. A common path is for hurricanes
to pass about the latitude of Guadeloupe or fur-
ther north and then move along the Leeward
Islands before turning north. The hurricane sea-
son is from June to November, with the greatest
number occurring in September. Very rarely a hur-
ricane strikes in May or December.

AN71 Lesser Antilles to Venezuela
· This relatively short passage benefits from
favourable winds throughout the year.
Sometimes in winter, between January and
March, when the trade winds blow strongly, con-
ditions can be rough. Better conditions are expe-
rienced at the change of seasons when winds
continue to be favourable, but are usually lighter
than in winter. On all westbound passages
allowance should be made for the strong
Equatorial Current which can set westward at rates
of up to 2 knots.
f; AN72 Lesser Antilles to ABC Islands
The former Dutch colonies off the coast of
Venezuela are easily reached from any of the Lesser
Antilles as both wind and current are in one's
favour virtually throughout the year. If coming
,.
~.':
~ ~-
AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES
Boats leaving from Grenada normally sail
directly to Pampatar, on the SE coast of Margarita
Island, the nearest official port of entry. The route
passes dangerously close to Los Testigos, a group
of low islands surrounded by shallows and reefs,
which should be given a wide berth unless plan-
ning to stop there. More dangers will be passed
on the way to Margarita, such 'as the low island
of La Sola. So this p assage, although short,
should be treated with due caution.
from Grenada, from WP AN721, outside St
George, a course should be set for WP AN722 to
pass at a safe distance north of Los Roques islands
off Venezuela.
87
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Approaching Bonaire from the north, Bonaire can
be passed on either side. Although sailing down
the west side will save a few miles, the strong con-
trary current will cancel any advantage. Boats com-
ing from the east should stay south of the island
and go straight to Kralendijk to complete for-
malities. The customs dock is the northernmost
dock in the commercial harbour. It is also possi-
ble to clear in at Bonaire Marina. Bonaire has a
Venezuelan Consulate where visas for that coun-
AN73 Lesser Antilles to Colombia
A successful anti-drug campaign in the early 1990s
has made it possible once again to include
Colombia in one's cruising plans, and a large num-
ber of visiting boats are stopping in Colombia, espe-
cially in the attractive city of Cartagena.
Directions for sailing to Colombia are similar to
routes AN71 and AN74. From WP AN732, 28 miles
north of Punta Galinas on Guajira Peninsula, the
recommended route leads to WPs AN733 and
AN734. Both points are just outside the 1000 fath-
om line where there are relatively less rough seas,
although both strong winds and high seas are a rule
88
try can be obtained.
Formalities in Curac;ao can be completed in the
capital Willemstad. Contact the Port Authority on
arrival on VHF channel 12 or 14 for docking
instructions. Yachts may also clear at the marina
in Spanish Water (12'09'N, 68.17'W).
Aruba Port Control should be contacted on VHF
channel 16 when entering for b~rthing and clear-
ance instructions. ··
on all Caribbean routes, especially during the win-
ter months. From AN734 the course can be altered
to WP AN735 in the approaches to the port of
Cartagena. The area should be approached with
caution because of the dangers in the approaches
to Cartagena. The entrance through Boca Grande
should not be attempted as it is badly silted. The
dredged entrance is now Boca Chica, identified by
a landfall buoy, close to the end of Isla de Tierra
Bomba. An 8 mile long channel leads northward
through the shallow Bahia de Cartagena to the com-
mercial port and two marinas.

AN74 Lesser Antilles t o Panama
This can be a very rough passage, confirmed by
the fact that many experienced sailors describe
their passage across the Caribbean Sea perhaps as
the roughest part of their voyage around the world.
This is usually the case at the height of the trade
wind season, when the constant easterly winds pile
up the water in the western part of the Caribbean
making sea conditions hazardous. Many boats have
f been knocked down or pooped by the steep fol-
lowing seas, while others have been lost on the
coast of Colombia after having been set off course
by the strong current.
Although direct passages to Panama cross an:
area which is rarely affected by hurricanes, this pas-
sage should not be done between July and
October when the ,r isk of tropical storms is high-
est. The best times are either in November-
December, when the trades are not yet blowing at
full strength, or in April-May, when the strength
of the winter trades starts to diminish. The
months of January to March, although free of hur-
ricanes, are also the period of the strongest
trades, when conditions in the western part of the
Caribbean can become uncomfortable, or occa-
sionally even dangerous, for small boats. Best con-
ditions can therefore be expected at either the
beginning or the end of the winter season.
Boats sailing to Panama nonstop should keep at
a safe distance from the Colombian coast to avoid
the rougher seas associated with thqse shallow
waters. Whether stopping in Aruba, as many boats
AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES
do, or sailing nonstop to Panama, WP AN742, 28
miles north of Punta Galinas on Guajira
Peninsula allows the course to be set just outside
the 1000 fathom line where relatively less rough
seas can be expected. From there, a direct course
leads to WP AN743, about IO miles N of Punta
Manzanillo and 30 miles from the Panama Canal
entrance. The latter is reached by altering course
for WP AN744 which is the landfall buoy, approx-
imately 3 miles N of the entrance into the port of
Cristobal. Traffic Control should be contacted on
VHF Channel 12, although small boats may enter
if they proceed carefully. Traffic lights control the
entrance through the breakwaters and small
boats are advised to keep as close as possible to
the sides. See page 489 for detailed instructions
concerning Panama entry and transit procedure.
When planning this passage across the
Caribbean Sea it is well worth considering a stop
in either Venezuela or the offlying A"BC islands,
most of which are situated outside the hurricane
belt. The advantage of such a stop is that the voy-
age towards Panama can be continued at any time
of the year, and with sufficient care even during
the hurricane season, as the route from Aruba to
Panama lies to the south of the area affected by
tropical storms. Another suggested stop is in the
San Blas Islands, which belong to Panama, The port
of entry is Porvenir (9 '34'N, 78'57'W). As
described in AN73, the voyage can also be inter-
rupted at Cartagena, in Colombia.
89
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN75 Lesser Antilles to Greater Antilles
Not such a popular cruising destination as the
Lesser Antilles, the large islands of Cuba,
Hispaniola, Puerto Rico, and Jamaica are mainly
visited by yachts en route to other places. From
islands south of Antigua~ direct offshore routes lead
across the Caribbean Sea to the south coasts of all
the Greater Antilles. Ports on the north coasts of
all these islands can be reached in easy stages if
setting off from the Virgin Islands. The north coast
of Hispaniola, islands in the Turks and Caicos, as
well as some of the Bahamas, are best reached
through the Mona Passage.
While experiencing the typical Caribbean
weather pattern of winters dominated by the NE
trades, punctuated by northers, and summers
90
threatened by hurricanes, these large islands affect
local weather .conditions considerably due to their
height and position. Normally the winds along the
coasts moderate at night as cooled air flows off the
hills and out to sea. This land breeze can be quite
strong at night off all the islands, so as to coun-
teract the trade winds completely and give calm
conditions. In winter the prevailing NE trades can
become more easterly along northern coasts.
During this period the islands are affected by
northers, which bring strong N or more often NW
winds and cold temperatures to the north and west
coasts of the islands. These winds come without
much warning and often out of a clear sky,
although some indication may be the wind veer-

ing gradually to S and SW. In summer the trade
winds have a more southerly component and
winds tend to be much lighter, the sea and land
breezes being prominent. Thundery squalls are
common over the whole area, especially in the late
afternoon close to land. Some of the most violent
squalls in the Caribbean, short but sharp with light-
ning and heavy rain, occur off the south coast of
Cuba. Because the high islands block the passage
of N winds, line squalls are more associated with
the northern coasts of Hispaniola and Cuba.
Jamaica is a little more sheltered than the other
islands and has Jess seasonal change, the winds
being generally lighter and more variable. The
Greater Antilles are in the middle of the hurricane
belt and hurricanes accelerating through the
Caribbean frequently hit the shores of these
islands on their curved path northward. Their east-
ern shores are more frequen'tly affected than the
western shores.
When coming from any of the islands in the
Eastern Caribbean, set course for WP AN751, 10
miles south of Caho Rojo, the SW extremity of
Puerto Rico. To pass through the Mona Passage
(Route AN75A), alter course for WP AN752 so as
to stay clear of the shallows, and rough seas
associated with them, east of Cape Engano on
fi AN76 Lesser Antilles to Bahamas
I'
i
!
In winter, this route benefits from both
favourable winds and current. The offshore pas-
~age can be made at any time outside of the hur-
ricane season. Between December and April, at the
AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES
Hispaniola. Boats intending to stop on the west
coast of puerto Rico are warned that the official
port of entry is Mayaguez (18 "12'N, 67"07'W) and
not Boqueron. All boats, including those flying the
US flag, must stop at the former to clear in. A con-
venient port of entry into the Dominican Republic
is Samana, on the north coast of Hispaniola.
Favourable conditions are experienced on
westbound routes, which stay south of the
islands, at almost any time of the year, especial-
ly if bound for ports on the south coast of
Hispaniola. Boats sailing this route (AN75B)
should set a course for WP AN753, off Saona island,
at the SE point of Hispaniola, and then alter course
for either La Romana or Santo Domingo.
Boats bound for Jamaica and beyond (AN75C)
should make for WP AN754, off the small island
of Alta Vela, south of Hispaniola, where tho.se
intending to call at the Jamaican capital Kingston
should alter course for WP AN755. Boats bound
for ports on the north coast of Jamaica should steer
for WP AN756, off Northeast Point, and then make
for their port of destination. Finally, boats bound
for Cuba (AN75D) should alter course from
AN754 for WP AN757, off Cape Tiburon, from
where it is a clear run to Santiago de Cuba, the
nearest Cuban port of entry to this route.
height of the winter trades, fair, if strong winds,
can be expected as well as the favourable Antilles
Current. Light winds and occasional calms can be
expected at the change of seasons, especially in
91
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
May. The route can be affected by depressions pass-
ing to the north with resulting NW winds. As bo th
the Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico are situated on
or very close to the direct route from the Eastern
Caribbean to the Bahamas, most boats stop there
before continuing their voyage. If stopping in the
Virgin Islands, directions for the onward passage
are given in route ANBS (page 101).
For boats leaving Antigua on a nonstop passage
to the Bahamas, from WP AN761, off the SW of
Antigua the initial course passes NE of Nevis, St
Kitts, and St Eustatius to WP AN762, halfway
between St Barts and Saba. From there a new course
should be set for WP AN763 to stay clear of
Anegada and the many dangers surrounding it.
The course then stays well offshore to pass out-
side all dangers. The Southern Bahamas can be
reached via several deep water passes, all of which
are subject to strong currents as indeed is the entire
area of the Bahamas. The route follows a NW direc-
tion to WP AN764 off Caicos Passage. The near-
est island to clear into the Bahamas is
Mayaguana, whose eastern point should be given
AN77 Lesser Antilles to North America
92
a wide berth to avoid the reefs surrounding it.
Although Abrams Bay, the main settlement on the
south coast of the island, is not an official port of
entry, boats are allowed to stop there provided they
complete formalities in the first official port of
entry. The nearest is Cockburn Town on the island
of San Salvador. If continuing on the offshore route,
course for the latter should nqt be set until one is
well clear of Samana Cay, a low unlit island lying
between Mayaguana and San Salvador. Fr.o m WP
AN764 the course should be altered for WP AN765
east of Samana then for WP AN766.
After landfall is made at WP AN766, 5 miles SE
of Sandy Point, the SW extremity of San Salvador,
the west of the island should be passed at a safe
distance before approachlng the main settlement
at Cockburn Town. Entry formalities can be com-
pleted there or one mile further north at Riding
Rock Marina, which has a difficult entrance with
a maximum depth of 7 ft at high tide. The GPS lat-
itude of the entrance channel into the small mari-
na has been reported as 24 "03.4'N. The marina
management will answer calls on VHF c;hannel 6.
iiiii~-------------------------- -
The recommended time for this passage is anhe
end of the winter sailing season in the Caribbean.
At such times the winds usually have a southern
component. If a direct course is sailed to ports
south of C~e Hatteras, favourable winds can be
expected a' far as the northern limit of the trade
winds. Occasionally southerly winds last right
through the zone of calms that extends between
latitudes 25'N and 30'N. North of this zone the
winds are variable, with a predominance of Sand
SW winds. The danger of a blustery winter
norther is minimal after the middle of April. The
temptation of a ride in the Gulf Stream should be
resisted if this passage is made early in the sea-
son to avoid being caught by a late norther. This
route is not recommended after the end of June
because of the increased likelihood of hurricanes.
Summer passages should be avoided as the
tracks of past hurricanes almost coincide with the
direct northbound route.
For destinations north of Cape Hatteras as far
as Nova Scotia (AN77A), a stopover in Bermuda
has certain attractions. In fact very few boats sail
nonstop from the Eastern Caribbean to ports east
of New York without stopping in Bermuda.
Details for such a route are given in AN78 and
AN121 (pages 94 and 135). Boats leaving from
English Harbour can leave Antigua either to port
or starboard. The second alternative is more com-
fortable for the start of the voyage and so a course
should be set to sail west parallel to Antigua's
south coast to WP AN771 before altering course
for WP AN772. The course can then be set for WP
AN773 to pass west of Barbuda and stay well clear
of Anguilla and associated dangers. From there a
direct course leads to WP AN774, one mile east of
St David's Head in the approaches to the Town Cut
which leads into St George's Harbour. This is
- · ··---
AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES
·i
I
!
Bermuda's only port of entry. The entrance is dif-
ficult to negotiate in the dark and those unfamil-
iar with it should avoid arriving or at least using
it at night.
For boats bound for ports south of Cape
Hatteras a detour via Bermuda makes little sense.
There are two routes which can be sailed to reach
any of those ports, either by a direct offshore route
(AN77B) or an indirect route passing close to the
Bahamas (AN77C). Although the direct route
(AN77B) appears to be shorter, it is not necessar-
ily.the faster as it cuts diagonally across the zone
of calms that will be found north of latitude 25 '.
Such a direct offshore route should only be
attempted if favourable weather conditions are
likely to be encountered. In this case, from WP
AN773 a course may be set for the port of desti-
nation. The suggested alternative (AN77C) is to
follow a NW course to windward of both Turks
and Caicos and the Bahamas. From Great Abaco
the route turns north and picks up the Gulf Stream.
Both winds and current are favourable along most
of this route. Boats bound for ports in Northern
Florida should continue to WP 775 before alter-
ing course for their destination.
A direct passage along any of the above routes
should not be attempted during the winter
months when a slower cruise through the
Bahamas to Florida is to be preferred and the US
can be reached in a more leisurely way. For boats
bound for South Florida there are three alterna-
tives. Between April and June the most direi:t route
passes outside Turks and Caicos as well as the
Southern Bahamas as far as Great Abaco. From
there the route goes through the NE and NW
Providence Channels and crosses the Gulf Stream
to Florida. The other two alternatives can be used
at any time between November and June,
93
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
although they cannot be regarded as offshore pas-
sages because both consist of island hopping, either
right through the Turks and Caicos as well as the
Bahamas, or along the northern shores of Puerto
AN78 Lesser Antilles to Bermuda
The favoured point of departure for this route is
Antigua's English Harbour, where boats take their
leave from the Lesser Antilles and head north for
Bermuda as part of a return trip either to Europe
or North America. This normally happens at the
end of the winter season, when most boats that
have been cruising the Eastern Caribbean con-
gregate in or around English Harbour for the annu-
al Antigua Sailing Week.
A departure from Antigua to Bermuda puts a
boat more to windward than a departure from the
Virgin Islands or Puerto Rico, as described in route
AN88 (page 105). The better slant puts one onto
a close reach as far as the northern limit of the trade
winds, which at the optimum time for this passage
can be carried to latitude 26 "Nor even 28 'N. The
winds from late April to the middle of June are
mostly E to SE for the first half of this passage,
becoming lighter farther north. Light southerly
winds are sometimes carried right through the
Horse Latitudes, but calms are the rule not the
exception in the region of the Sargasso Sea. If con-
stant SE winds are carried through, the weather
remains clear, otherwise it is cloudy and overcast.
Boats leaving from English Harbour can leave
Antigua either to port or starboard. The second
94
Rico, Hispaniola, and Cuba. The high risk of hur-
ricanes must be taken into account if any of these
inshore routes is sailed in summer.
alternative is more comfortable for the start of the
voyage and so a course should be set to sail west
parallel to Antigua's south coast to WP AN781
before altering course for WP AN782. The course
can then be set for WP AN783 to pass west of
Barbuda and stay well clear of Anguilla and asso-
ciated dangers. From there, a direct course leads
to WP AN784, one mile east of St David's Head
in the approaches to the Town Cut which leads into
St George's Harbour. This is Bermuda's only port
of entry. The entrance is difficult to negotiate in
the dark and those unfamiliar with it should avoid
arriving or at least using it at n ight.
For those who are determined to make good time
to Bermuda there is no alternative but to motor
through the calms that may be encountered and
this is definitely advisable later in the season
because of the risk of hurricanes. This route is not
recommended after the end of June because of the
increased likelihood of hurricanes. Passages
along this route are d efinitely discouraged after
July as the tracks of past hurricanes almost coin-
cide with the direct course to Bermuda, passing
north of the Virgin Islands and running between
the US east coast and Bermuda. Tropical depres-
sions become more frequent after the beginning

of July and even if they do not generate strong
winds, the weather in their vicinity is very unset-
tled with heavy rain. If such a depression forms
close to the northern extremity of the Lesser
Antilles, contrary winds can be expected on the
way to Bermuda.
This passage can also be done towards the end
of the hurricane season, when the frequency of S
AN79 Lesser Antilles to Azores
For many years yacht captains were not prepared
to challenge the accepted wisdom that a return voy-
age from the Caribbean to Europe should only be
attempted along the classic route that passes
through Bermuda and the Azores. What started
as a devil-may-care route used mostly by deliv-
ery crews and skippers of charter boats in a hurry
to return to the Mediterranean at the end of the
season in the Caribbean, is now attracting cruis-
ing boats as well. As the route via Bermuda is at
least 500 miles loriger than the great circle route ·
from Antigua to Horta, and one cannot even be
sure of fair winds for half that voyage via
Bermuda, many prefer to stay in warmer weath-
er and hope for the best.
On leaving Antigua, or any other of the Lesser
Antilles, a NE course is set, which should be pos-
sible to achieve because the trade winds are most-
ly south of east when this passage is usually made,
in May or June. The chances of SE winds increas-
es as one moves north until the belt of calms and
light winds is reached which separates the trade
winds from the westerlies of higher latitudes. This
is the time when a powerful engine and a good
reserve of fuel make up for the lack of wind and
AN70 RO UTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES
and SW winds on the way to Bermuda is higher,
but so also is the risk of a late hurricane.
Fortunately the best time for this route is also the
most convenient as it coincides with the end of the
safe cruising season in the Caribbean, Antigua
Week, and optimum weather for a subsequent pas-
sage to either Europe.or North America.
this is the tactic preferred by most of those who
take this route. With a bit of luck, winds on the
other side of the Horse Latitudes may turn out to
be favourable. If this occurs, some people are
tempted to bypass the Azores altogether and carry
on nonstop to Gibraltar, if bound for the
Mediterranean.
The optimum time for this passage is between
May and July, although most boats sail this route
in May. April is a little too early since the frequency
of gales in the Atlantic is still high. After July the
frequency of hurricanes increases, making all pas-
sages to or from the Caribbean a hazardous affair.
If a summer passage is considered, the Caribbean
should only be left with a reasonable long term fore-
cast. If no tropical depression is seen to be form-
ing, there is a fairly good chance of not being
overtaken by the resulting storm. Taking as a depar-
ture point WP AN791, five miles east of Antigua' s
English Harbour, the great circle route is joined
immediately unless one has good reason to believe
that a different course may have a better chance of
favourable winds. If NE winds make it impossible
to sail the great circle course, initially one should
favour the tack which makes most northing.
95
ROUT ES IN THE NORTH ATLANT I C

The most popular landfall in the Azores con-
tinues to be Horta, on the island of Faial, where
there is a good marina and entry formalities can
be completed. To reach Horta, make landfall at WP
AN792, 3 miles SW of Faial and then sail along the
south coast of the island before turning north at
the conspicuous Mount Guia.
The recently improved port of Lajes, on the west-
ernmost island of Flores, offers the possibility of
clearing into the Azores at a point from where it
is easier to visit most other islands. Having made
landfall at WP AN793, 3 miles SW of Flores, the
island's south coast is followed to Lajes.

AN80 ROUTES FROM THE VIRGIN ISLANDS

AN81 Virgin Islands to Panama 97
AN82 Virgin Islands to Jamaica 98
AN83 Virgin Islands to the Gulf of Mexico 99
AN84 Virgin Islands to Turks & Caicos 101
ANSS Virgin Islands to Bahamas 101
AN86 Virgin Islands to Florida 103
AN87 Virgin Islands to North America 103
AN88 Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico to Bermuda 105
AN89 Virgin Islands to Azores 106

')) BERMUDA

To the Azores

ANBO Routes from the Virgin Islands

91\

There are several routes fanning out from the Virgin
Islands, particularly from St Thomas, whose
excellent facilities are a great attraction to anyone
planning to set off on a long ocean passage. ~e
main exodus occurs at the end of the winter sea-
son as boats make their way north, usually to
Bermuda, either on their way home to North
America or back to Europe. Because of their strate-
gic position at the point where. the Greater
Antilles give way to their lesser sisters, the
Virgins are also a favourite starting point for cruis-
es in the area. Most US boats bound for the Eastern
Caribbean make their first landfall in the Virgins,
from where they start making their way south
through the chain of the Lesser Antilles. Some come
back for their return passage home, but most carry
on their clockwise circuit of the Caribbean rim. In
contrast, most European boats arrive in the
AN81 Virgin Islands to Panama
A downwind trip at all times, this passage diag-
onally across the Caribbean Sea should not be
undertaken during the peak months of the hurri-
cane season, between July and October. Another
period to be avoided is at the height of the winter
trades, between January and the middle of March,
when stroI)g winds and high seas are the rule in
the Caribbean Sea. Reference should be made to
route AN74 (page 89) as directions are similar, with
AN80 ROUTES FROM THE VIRGIN ISLA NDS
Virgins at the end of their Caribbean cruise and
use the Virgins as a convenient springboard for the
continuation of their voyage, most commonly to
Bermuda and home, and occasfonally to the
Bahamas and Florida.
These small islands to the east of Puerto Rico are
an extremely popular cruising ground, enjoying
very similar weather conditions to the Lesser .
Antilles. The prevailing wind tends to be easter-
ly, the trade winds being north of east in winter
and south of east in summer. The trades are
stronger in winter months, around 20 knots, gust-
ing occasionally to over 30 knots. Northers can also
affect the islands in winter, although not so fre-
quently nor so strongly as in other areas, such as
the Bahamas. The Virgin Islands lie in the hurri-
cane area and they can be affected by tropical
storms every year.
the exception that for those who start off from the
Virgin Islands, the recommended stop in the ABC
Islands or Venezuela is not applicable unless one
wishes to spend some time cruising there.
Boats setting off from St Thomas on the direct
route to Panama leave Vieques Island to starboard
and take their departure from the Virgins at WP
AN811, 10 miles SE of Vieques. Those who prefer
to call first at San Juan, Puerto Rico, take a route
97
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC
along the north coast of Puerto Rico to its west-
ern extremity and reach the Caribbean Sea
through the Mona Passage. From WP AN812, 5
miles NNW of Cape Borinquen, a course can be
set through the Mona Passage to WP AN813, ESE
of Mona Island. Unless stopping in San Juan, the
detour around the north of Puerto Rico should be
avoided as it can be windless at the end of w in-
ter when the island blocks the winds.
Whichever route is chosen, be it south or north
of Puerto Rico, from those waypoints AN811 or
AN813 a clear course leads right across the
Caribbean Sea to WP AN814 about 10 miles N of
Punta Manzanilla and 30 miles from the Panama
Canal entrance. The latter is reached by altering
course for WP AN815 which is the landfall buoy
3 miles N of the entrance into the port of
Cristobal. Traffic Control should be contacted on
VHF channel 12, although small boats may enter
AN82 Virgin Islands to Jamaica
98
if they proceed carefully. Traffic lights control the
entrance through the breakwaters and small
boats are advised to keep as close as possible to
the sides. See page 489 for detailed instructions
concerning entry and transit procedure.
Most boats leave the Virgins for Panama in win-
ter and all those who have done this passage in
February complain about the rough conditions in
the Caribbean Sea. A later start, when the winter
trades have lost some of their power, might be
preferable, although this may be too late for those
planning to continue their voyage along the Pacific
coast of Central America and Mexico. For those
who are bound for the islands of the South Pacific
an early start from the Virgins is not essential, as
the seasons there are the opposite to what they are
in the Caribbean and a later passage to Panama
in April or early May is acceptable.

The direct route from St Thomas (AN82A) leaves
Vieques Island to starboard, and takes its depar-
ture from WP AN821, 10 miles SE of Vieques.
Course is then set for WP AN822 to stay well clear
of Puerto Rico. Those who prefer to call first at San
Juan, Puerto Rico, will reach Mona Passage by sail-
ing along the north coast of Puerto Rico to its west-
ern extremity (AN82B). From WP AN823, 5 miles
NNW of Cape Borinquen, a course can be set
through the Mona Passage to WP AN824, ESE of
Mona Island. Both routes will then set course for
WP AN825, 10 miles south of Isla Alta Vela, off the
southern tip of Hispaniola. From WP AN825 those
intending to call at the Jamaican capital Kingston
should alter course for WP AN826 off Plumb Point
in the approaches to Kingston. Boats bound for
ports on the north coast of Jamaica should steer
for WP AN827, off Northeast Point, and then make
for their port of destination. If bound for the Gulf
of Mexico, one of the ports on the north coast of
Jamaica will probably be preferable. From WP
AN827 a course can·be set for either Port Antonio
or Ocho Rios, both of which are official ports of
AN83 Virgin Islands to the Gulf of Mexico
I .
.I ~-
ANSO ROUTES FROM THE VIRGIN ISLANDS
entry. At the western extremity of Jamaica Hes
Montego Bay (18'28'N, 77'56'W), also a port of
entry and a convenient port of departure for west-
bound boats.
An alternative route (AN82C) stays north of both
Puerto Rico and Hispaniola and uses the
Windward Passage to regain the Caribbean Sea.
No waypoints are listed as this route entails main-
ly coastal cruising. The ad vantage of the direct
routes described earlier is the certainty of better
winds, whereas by keeping to the north of the large
islands, the trade winds are blocked and one may
have to rely on coastal breezes. This is particularly
the case in late spring and early summer when the
trade winds have a southerly component and there-
fore Caribbean passages have a much better chance
of favourable winds.
As with most trans-Caribbean passages, the best
time is the transition months of April-May,
before the start of the hurricane season, or
November, at the start of the safe sailing season.
Generally, favourable winds and currents can be
expected along the offshore routes described above.
99
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC
This is a convenient route for boats sailing to the
southern states bordering on the Gulf of Mexico
as it is more direct and Jess difficult than a cross-
ing of the Bahamas. The route between the Virgins
and Jamaica is similar to route AN82 and runs par-
allel to the south coasts of Puerto Rico and
Hispaniola. The route then continues north of
Jamaica. If a stop in Jamaica is not intended, from
WP AN836, off Jamaica's northeast point, a course
is set f01 WP AN837, N of Galina Point. The route
then continues in a NW direction and passes
between Little and Grand Cayman to WP AN838.
The route passes so close to Grand Cayman that
a stop in Georgetown may be considered. If stop-
ping in Georgetown, contact Port Security on VHF
channel 16, which is monitored permanently. From
Grand Cayman, the route continues towards the
Yucatan Channel and WP AN839, off Cuba's Cape
San Antonio. Route AN83B lists the waypoints for
those preferring to sail along the north coast of
100
Puerto Rico and the Mona Passage and join the off-
shore route at WP835 south of Hispaniola.
Boats bound for ports on the north side of the
Gulf of Mexico, such as New Orleans, may prefer
a route which stays north of all the Greater Antilles.
The one distinct disadvantage of this route is the
contrary Gulf Stream that will have to be faced
north of Cuba. From the navigational point of view,
the sou thern route across the Caribbean Sea, as
described above, is easier and also benefits from
both better winds and a favourable current for
almost its entire length.
The best time for a passage along either route
is the transition months of April-May, before the
hurricane season, or November before the onset
of winter northers which may be felt west of
Jamaica and can seriously affect weather in the Gulf
of Mexico. Northbound boats occasionally wait for
favourable conditions to cross the Gulf of Mexico
at Isla Mujeres (21 "lS'N, 86 "45.S'W).

AN84 Virgin Islands to Turks & Caicos
There is a choice of two routes for this passage. The
offshore route AN84A leaves all banks (Navidad,
Silver, and Mouchoir) to port and keeps well clear
of all dangers. Route AN84B stays south of the
banks and runs closer to Puerto Rico. The offshore
route is both easier to navigate and benefits more
from the favourable current. The best time for pas-
sages on either route is at the change of seasons,
but even at the height of the winter trades, the only
inconvenience will be the occasional strong wind.
On leaving St Thomas, and having cleared Savana
Island, off its western extremity, make for WP
AN841. From this waypoint, just north of the light
on Culebrita Island, route AN84A makes for WP
AN85 Virgin Islands to Bahamas
AN80 ROUTES FROM THE VIRGIN ISLANDS
AN842, 12 miles NE of Grand Turk. The course is
altered there to enter Turks Passage and make for
Cockburn Town, the main settlement and port of
entry on Grand Turk. Alternatively, one may pre-
fer to cross over to Cockburn Harbour, on South
Caicos.
The southern route (AN84B) also takes its
departure from WP AN841 from where the course
leads to WP AN843 off Cape Borinquen. The route
then runs in a NW direction south of Navidad and
Silver Banks to WP AN844, SW of Mouchoir Bank.
From there the course is altered to pass at a safe
distance SW of Sandy Cay, at the southern
entrance into Turks Passage.
101
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
To reach the Bahamas from the Virgin Islands one
can take either an inshore route, along the north
coasts of Puerto Rico and Hispaniola (AN85B), or
an offshore route staying outside all islands
(AN85A). As the inshore route requires mostly
coastal cruising, no waypoints are given. The off-
shore route (AN85A) is both shorter and faster
especially if the destination is in the Northern
Bahamas. It follows a NW course parallel to the
chain of islands as · far as the NE Providence
Channel. Whether going offshore immediately on
leaving St Thomas, or stopping first in San Juan,
Puerto Rico, the course should pass Navidad,
Silver, and Mouchoir Banks at a safe distance. The
offshore passage can be made at any time outside
of the hurricane season. Between December and
April, at the height of the winter trades, fair, if
strong winds, can be expected as well as the
favourable NW setting Antilles Current. Light
winds and even calms can be expected at ·the
change of seasons, especially in May. The route can
be affected by depressions passing to the north with
resulting NW winds.
On leaving St Thomas, and having cleared
Savana Island, off its western extremity, from
Savana Passage and WP AN851 a course is set for
WP AN852, north of Silver Bank. The route con-
tinues in a NW direction to WP AN853 off Caicos
Passage. The Southern Bahamas can be reached via
several deep water passes, all of which are sub-
10?
-
ject to strong currents, as indeed is the entire area
of the Bahamas. The nearest island to clear into the
Bahamas is Mayaguana, whose eastern point
should be given a wide berth to avoid the reefs sur-
rounding it. Although Abrams Bay, the main set-
tlement on the south coast of the island, is not an
official port of entry, boats are allowed to stop there
provided they complete formalities in the first offi-
cial port of entry. The nearest is Cockburn Town
on the island of San Salvador. If continuing on the
offshore route, course for the latter should not be
set until one is well clear of Samana Cay, a low .unlit
island lying between Mayaguana and San
Salvador. From WP AN853 the course should be
altered for WP AN854 east of Samana. From there
a course can be set for WP AN855.
After landfall is made at WP ANBSS, 5 miles SE
of Sandy Point, the SW extremity of San Salvador,
the west of the island should be passed at a safe
distance before approaching the main settlement
at Cockburn Town. Entry formalities can be com-
pleted there, or at the airport, where the officials
are based. There is an anchorage off the settlement
or a small marina one mile further north. Riding
Rock Marina has a difficult entrance with a max-
imum depth of 7 ft at high tide. The GPS latitude
of the entrance channel into the small marina has
been reported as 24 "03.4'N. The marina can be con-
tacted on VHF channel 6.

AN86 Virgin Islands to Florida
For boats bound for Florida there are several alter-
native routes to choose from. Between April and
June, the most direct route runs in a NW direction
parallel to the Turks and Caicos Islands as well as
the Bahamas as far as Great Abaco (AN86A) . This
offshore route benefits from strong winds
throughout the winter months and also the
favourable Antilles Current. More benign condi-
tions will be experienced at the change of seasons,
in April and May. Directions for this route are sim-
ilar to those for both AN85 and AN87C to which
reference should be made. Boats bound for ports
in South Florida can follow route AN86A as far
as Great Abaco island where route AN86B
AN87 Virgin Islands to North America
ANSO ROUTES FR OM THE VIRGIN ISL AN DS
branches off through the NE and NW Providence
Channels and crosses the Gulf Stream to Florida.
The other alternatives consist of island hopping,
either right through Turks and Caicos and the
Bahamas, or along the northern shores of Puerto
Rico, Hispaniola, and Cuba (AN86C). In the la t-
ter case, Florida is reached through the Old Bahama
Channel, south of the Great Bahama Bank. Both
these routes can be used at any time between
November and June, but as they cannot be
regarded as offshore passages they are not
described in detail, n or are there any waypoints
listed .
103
ROUTES I N THE NORT H ATLANTIC
The end of the winter sailing season in the Eastern
Caribbean is the time when most boats set off on
this passage, which is also the time when best con-
ditions can be expected for most of the way. On
the direct rou te (AN87A), which does not call at
Bermuda, favourable winds can be expected as far
as the northern limit of the trade w inds.
Southerly winds occasionally last right tJtrough the
zone of calms that extends between latitudes 25 'N
and 30'N. The temptation to ride the Gulf Stream
should be resisted if this passage is made early in
the season to avoid being caught by a late
norther. For boats bound for ports to the north of
Cape Hatteras similar directions apply as for route
Al'\188 and in fact many people prefer to break the
voyage in Bermuda and reach the more distant
ports on the US east coast or even Canada that way.
For boats bound for ports south of Cape
Hatteras a detour via Bermuda is not justified. They
have a choice of either a slightly indirect route
(AN87C) or the direct route AN87B, which follows
a rhumb line from the Virgins to the US east coast.
104
Although this route is undoubtedly the shortest,
as it is the most direct, it may not be the quickest
as it cuts diagonally across the zone of calms that
will be found north of latitude 25 '.
Boats taking route AN87C will sail on a NW
course parallel to the Turks and Caicos. and
Bahamas as far as the Abacos before heading for
their destination. On leaving St Thomas, and hav-
ing cleared Sa vana Island, off its western extrem-
ity, from WP AN871 a direct course, w hich keeps
well outside all dangers, can be set for WP AN875,
north of Great Abaco. From there the route turns
north and enters the Gulf Stream. Both winds and
current are favourable along most of this route.
Whichever alternative is chosen, the optimum
time for leaving the Virgins also coincides with the
end of the safe cruising season in the Eastern
Caribbean. A direct passage along any of the above
routes should not be attempted during the win-
ter months when a slower cruise through the
Bahamas to Florida is to be preferred and US ports
can be reached in a more leisurely way.
r
I
I AN88 Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico to Bermuda
I
I!
Bermuda provides an attractive stop for boats sail-
ing from the Virgins or Puerto Rico to either Europe
or the US east coast. Best conditions on this route,
which crosses the Horse Latitudes, will be found
in late spring or early summer. At this time of year
the trade winds are more E or SE in direction than
in winter. Even if the winds blow from the NE, it
does not matter if one is pushed slightly to the west
of the desired course, because the further north one
goes, the greater likelihood there is of a shi~ of
wind to the SE or even S. If favourable winds are
not found the ground lost to the west can be
regained, by motoring through the calms. North
of the zone of calms, the winds become variable,
with a predominance of S or SW winds and only
rarely N winds. The danger of a winter norther is
minimal after the middle of April when most pas-
. sages are made on this route. Generally, the best
conditions are encountered in May. This route is
not recommended after the end of June because
of the increased frequency of hurricanes. Those
who are determined to make good time to
Bermuda should be prepared to motor if they
encounter any calms. This advice should be fol-
AN80 ROUTES FROM THE ~GI N ISLANDS
lowed especially later in the season when there is
a higher risk of being caught by a hurricane and
one should not dally too long in this area.
Summer passages along this route are definitely
discouraged as the tracks of past hurricanes almost
coincide with the direct course to Bermuda.
Tropical depressions become more frequent after
the'beginning of July and even if they do not gen-
erate strong winds, the weather in their vicinity
is very unsettled with heavy rain. If such a depres-
sion forms close to the Virgin Islands, contrary
winds can be expected on the way to Bermuda.
Boats leaving from St Thomas usually reach the
open sea through Savana Passage, west of the
island . From WP AN881 a direct course leads all
the way to Bermuda where landfall is made at WP
AN883. If leaving from Puerto Rico, from WP
AN882 a course can be set for the same WP AN883,
one mile east of St David's Head in the approach-
es to the Town Cut. This leads into St George's
Harbour, which is Bermuda's only port of entry.
The entrance through Town Cut is difficult to nego-
tiate in the dark and those unfamiliar with it should
avoid using it at night.
105
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN89 Virgin Islands to Azores
Because of the extensive area of variable winds that
lies across the direct route to the Azores, the rec-
ommended route across the Atlantic leads first in
a NE direction into an area of prevailing wester-
ly winds. As such a route passes close to
Bermuda, most boats taking it usually stop there
before continuing the voyage to the Azores.
Directions for those routes are found on pages 105
and 138 (routes AN88 and AN125).
Although considerably shorter, the grea t circle
route can seldom be sailed for its entire length and
a good supply of fuel should be carried so as to
motor through the almost unavoidable areas of
calms. In spring and early summer, the winds as
far as latitude 26"N or 28 ' N will be south of east.
Further north they will become light and variable,
with prolonged calms a strong possibility. The opti-
mum time for a direct passage is between May and
July. April is probably too early as the frequency
of gales in the Atlantic is still high. After July the
AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PANAMA
AN91 Panama to Central America
AN92 Panama to the Gulf of Mexico and Florida
AN93 Panama to Jamaica, Bahamas and USA
AN94 Panama to Hispaniola
AN95 Panama to Virgin Islands
AN96 Panama to Lesser Antilles
AN9~ Panama to Colombia
AN98 Panama to Venezuela and the ABC Islands
106
l
frequency of hurricanes increases and if a summer
passage is considered, the Caribbean should only
be left with a reasonable long term forecast. If no
tropical depression is seen to be forming in the area,
there is a fairly good chance of not being overtaken
by the resulting storm.
Intermediate waypoints cannot be given as the
route sailed will depend entirely on the winds
encountered. The most popular landfall in the
Azores continues to be Horta, on the island of Faial,
where there is a good marina and entry formali-
ties can be completed. To reach Horta, landfall is
made at WP AN891, 3 miles SW of Faial. The
island's south coast is followed before turning
north at the conspicuous Mount Guia.
The recently improved port of Lajes, on the west-
ernmost island of Flores, offers the possibility of
clearing into the Azores earlier. Having made land-
fall at WP AN892, 3 miles SW of Flores, the island's
south coast is followed to Lajes.
108
109
111
113
114
115
115
116

To Galveston
80'W
AN90 Caribbean routes from Panama
Most routes in the Caribbean Sea either start or end
in Panama, and because they have many features
in common it is worth considering them togeth-
er. Because of the multitude of destinations, the
routes are difficult to define, although there are
certain considerations that have to be taken into
account whichever route is contemplated. Most of
these considerations are closely related to weath-
er, and passages through the Caribbean are dis-
couraged during the hurricane season, especially
during the months of highest frequency, from
August to October. Some of the late hurricanes
actually form in the Caribbean and warnings are
therefore shorter tha n when the depression has
been tracked across the Atlantic. Rough weather
can also be experienced in the Western Caribbean
at the height of the winter trades, whereas in the
Gulf of Mexico winter is associated with violent
northerly storms. Another concern in the Gulf of
Mexico a re the strong currents whose direction is
often different to that depicted on charts.
AN90 CARIBBE AN ROUTES FROM PANAMA
60'W
TURKS&
v CAICOS
•
20'N
~ ANTIGUA
0 0
I>-~t:i
~
t?;
ST LUCIA!>
I
GRENADA la
II
The entire area is affected by winter northers,
although these winter storms gradually decrease in
intensity further south and are not so strong south
of Honduras. However, these northers, combined
with strong NE trade winds can result in very strong
winds described as intensified trades in the most
southerly portion of the Ca ribbean Sea. From
November to March the winds off the coast of Cen-
tral America tend to be more northerly than the
northeasterlies which prevail at other times of the
year. This coast is particularly affected by land and
sea breezes. The sea breeze commences from the NE
in mid-morning and gradually increases, drawing
around to the E between mid-afternoon and su n-
set. The breeze carries on moving around clockwise
until in the night it blows moderately from the SE.
In the more southern coastal areas this land breeze
can become W and SW. The summer rainy season
is characterised by squally weather especially in the
late afternoon. It is rarely calm and a similar pattern
of land and sea breezes prevails as in the winter.
107
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Eastbound passages from Panama can be very
difficult at most times of the year, because of the
prevailing direction of the winds and current.
Many people are tempted to make this passage late
in the year so as to arrive in the Lesser Antilles dur-
ing the hurricane-free season. In such a case, the
eastward passage must be made before the onset
of the strong winter trades. Better and more com-
fortable passages have been made in late spring
or early summer, although this has the disad-
vantage of arriving in the Lesser Antilles at the
beginning of the hurricane season. In order to make
this passage at the best time, and also avoid the
hurricane season, there are two options. If the
Panama Canal cannot be transited before winter
it is better to wait until April or May and then head
for Venezuela and the islands to the north of it. As
this area is mostly outside the hurricane zone it
is safe to cruise there until November when the
AN91 Panama to Central America
108
voyage can be continued to the Lesser Antilles. If
the Canal is transited in late October or early
November and the trade winds are already too
strong to attempt a direct passage, it may be worth
approaching the Lesser Antilles from the north, by
sailing first to the Virgin Islands via Puerto Rico.
This latter course of action will depend greatly on
the windward performance of tne boat, as most
of the passage will be hard on the wind. An eas-
ier option would be to reach the Eastern
Caribbean in shorter stages, either by following
the north coast of South America via the San Blas
Islands, Colombia, the ABC Islands, and
Venezuela, or to take a northern sweep via the
Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. Whichever
alternative is chosen, the onward passage from
Panama should be carefully planned to avoid being
immobilised in Panama while waiting for the trade
winds to subside.

On leaving the Panama Canal area there are two
alternatives, either a direct offshore route to the
north of Honduras (AN91A), or an indirect route
for those who intend to cruise on their way through
Honduras, Belize, or other parts of Central
America (AN91B).
The more direct offshore route requires careful
navigation, especially at the beginning, because of
the numerous banks and cays that lie off the coast
of Central A,merica. From WP AN910, off the
entrance into the Panama Canal, the course goes
due north to WP AN911, 20 miles east of
Roncador Bank. A northerly course will be main-
tained to the next WP AN912 to pass at a safe dis-
tance east of Serrana Bank. From there, a NW
course for WP AN913 follows a relatively deeper
channel. Boats bound for the Bay Islands of
Honduras or beyond, from WP AN913 should set
a course for WP AN914, 20 miles ENE of Gorda
Cay. As this course leads over some shallow spots
it should only be taken if the weather is not too
rough, otherwise the seas· breaking over the
banks can make conditions hazardous. The
course from Gorda Cay passes north of Hobbies
Cays through WP AN915, from where a clear
course leads to the islands of Guanaja or Roa tan
(Coxen Hole), both of which have ports where entry
formalities into Honduras can be completed.
Boats bound for Guatemala's Rio Dulce can clear
AN92 Panama to the Gulf of Mexico and Florida
AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PANAMA
into that country at Livingston. From the Bay
Islands, the route continues into the Gulf of
Honduras. A si)allow bar at the riv~r entrance has
to be negotiated to reach Livingston, and this is
best done at high tide.
The extensive cruising grounds of Belize are eas-
ily reached from the Bay Islands. Boats normally
clear into Belize at Belize City.
The alternative inshore route (AN91 B) follows
the Mosquito Coast of Nicaragua and Honduras.
On leaving the Panama Canal, a first stop can be
made in Costa Rica's Puerto Limon. If continuing
along the coast to Nicaragua, the official port of
entry there is El Bluff. ·
Those who take the offshore route on leaving
Panama can stop at either San Andres or
Providencia, two islands just north of Panama
which belong to Colombia. The GPS coordinates
of the landfall buoy off Puerto Isabel, on Pro-
videncia, have been reported as 13 '24'N,
81 '21.6'W. However, if conditions are unfavour-
able ~r visibility poor, it is strongly recommend-
ed to take the offshore route described earlier and
stay well clear of all dangers.
The cruising grounds of Honduras, Guatemala,
and Belize can be explored befo,e rejoining the off-
~hore route which continues to the Gulf of Mexico
as described in AN92.
109
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
As the direct route from Panama to the Gulf of
Mexico passes close to a number of attractive cruis-
ing grounds, the voyage can be interrupted in any
of these Central American destinations, as
described in AN91. Northbound passages to the
Yucatan Channel can be made either nonstop, albeit
through an area encumbered by dangers, or can
be interrupted at either Grand Cayman or Swan
Island.
As in the case of all Caribbean passages, the tim-
ing for this route is crucial. Apart from the risk of
being caught by a hurricane, especially from July
to October, many boats have got into difficulty
when hit by a strong norther in the Gulf of Mexico.
The whole area is affected by northers from
November until the beginning of April and their
effect can be felt as far south as Panama, although
their strength is greatly diminished by the time the
wmds reach those latitudes. The violent conditions
produced by the northerly wind blowing against
the strong currents in the Gulf have caused boats
to capsize or even founder. The best time to make
this passage is from the middle of April to the end
of June, when there is a reasonable chance of winds
with a southerly component. Northbound passages
can also be made from late October to early
December, but the weather must be watched more
carefully. Both periods avoid the worst of the win-
110
ter northers and fall outside the months with a high
frequency of hurricanes. If the passage is made in
winter, it is recommended to wait until immedi-
ately after a norther, when light conditions may
be expected for a few days.
In the summer the prevailing winds are from the
SE and the weather is rainy with heavy squalls and
calm periods. From April to July land and sea
breezes alternate along the south coast cif the USA.
The Gulf is one of the areas most affected by hur-
ricanes between June and November, being
threatened both by tropical storms that form in the
Gulf itself and those travelling from other areas
of the Caribbean. From September to November
hurricanes spawned in the Western Caribbean are
most likely to pass through the Yucatan Channel
and then curve around north and east towards
Cuba and Florida. Tornadoes, waterspouts, and
arched squalls are also a feature of the hurricane
season.
The prevailing winds in the Western Caribbean
are NE to E, with a southern component making
itself felt north of Yucatan. The currents along this
route set in a NW direction attaining their
strongest rate in the Yucatan Channel. The sets in
the Gulf of Mexico are complex and difficult to pre-
dict, particularly in the area of the Dry Tortugas
where extreme caution should be exercised.

Northbound boats have a choice of two routes,
one which stays well offshore of all dangers and
is more attractive to those intending to stop at
Grand Cayman (AN92A), and a slightly shorter
route taking a more direct course to the Yucatan
Channel (AN92B). From WP AN920, north of the
Panama Canal entrance, route AN92A goes due
north to WP AN921, 20 miles east of Roncador
Bank. The northerly course will be maintained to
the next WP AN922 east of Serrana Bank. From
there, a course is set for WP AN923 off Grand
Cayman. On arrival off Georgetown contact Port
Security on VHF channel 16, which is monitored
permanently.
Boats taking route AN92B, from WP AN920
should set a course for WP AN924, halfway
I between Sueno and Serrana Banks, both of which
have lights. From there, boats that have decided
to stop at Grand Cayman should alter course
almost due north over a shallow bank to WP
AN923, off the NW extremity of Grand Cayman.
I From there, the course turns east to reach the cap-
ital Georgetown. Rather than stop in Grand
I·
AN93 Panama to Jamaica, Bahamas and USA
AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PA NAMA
Cayman, another convenient stop on the way to
the Yucatan Channel is at Swan Island. If such a
stop is considered, from WP AN924 the course is
altered to pass over Gorda Bank to WP AN925 off
Swan Island's eastern point. Going north from
Swan Island, one can either head straight for the
Yucatan Channel or make another stop at Isla
Mujeres, which is a favourite place at which to wait
for favourable conditions to cross the Gulf of
Mexico. To call at IslltJ!ujeres, set a course for WP
AN926, SE of Punta Sur, at the island's SE extrem-
ity. Isla Mujeres is an official port of entry into
Mexico. If no stops are intended anywhere en route,
from WP AN924, a course should be set for WP
AN927 off Cuba's Cape San Antonio, which
marks the eastern side of the Yucatan Channel.
Whether sailing nonstop or planning to visit some
places on the way, this route has many attractions
for boats bound for US ports in the Gulf of Mexico
as well as on both coasts of Florida. Other routes,
such as AN93, should be considered for more north-
ern destinations on the east coast of the USA.
i
. I
I
.I
!
111
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
This northbound route through the Windward
Passage is favoured by those who wish to reach
ports along the east coast of the USA, although the
times when this route can be sailed comfortably
are relatively short. The best periods are either
between April ahd June, when the trades have lost
their winter strength and winds have a souther-
ly element in them, or November, before the onset
of the strong winter trades. When sailing this route
late in the year, there is also the danger of encoun-
tering a norther. Passages during the hurricane sea-
son should be avoided, especially during the
months of highest frequency (August to October).
During all other summer months the weather
should be observed closely.
Navigation in the central Caribbean Sea is made
difficult by the.large number of banks, reefs, and
shoals, aggravated by the strong west-setting cur-
rent. Because of this current, a direct course for
Jamaica leads dangerously close to the New
Bank and Pedro Bank and adequate allowance
should be made for leeway when setting a course
to windward of them. Both these banks can be very
dangerous in heavy weather and their vicinity
should be avoided. From Panama and WP AN930
the direct route (AN93A) passes east of the vari-
ous banks to WP AN931 south of Plumb Point, in
the approaches to the Jamaican capital Kingston.
If a stopover in Jamaica is not intended, on leav-
ing Panama from WP AN930, the course should
be set for WP AN932 about 20 miles SE of Morant
Cays, SE of Jamaica. This offshore route (AN93B)
leads well clear of all dangers. From AN932 the
course can pass either to the west of Navassa
Island, or between this island and Cape Tiburon,
112
the SW extremity of Hispaniola. In strong winds
it is safer to take the westerly route to WP AN933,
10 miles west of Navassa Island, to avoid the break-
ing seas on the shallow banks lying close to the
Haitian coast. The course then leads through the
Windward Passage to WP AN934, SE of Cape
Maisi, at Cuba's eastern extremity. A traffic sep-
aration zone is in operation off this point.
Having reached the Windward Passage boats
bound for South Florida should take the route
which runs along the north of Cuba and passes
through the Old Bahama and Santaren Channels
(AN93C). No waypoints are listed for this inshore
route. The route to northern ports on the US east
coast (AN93D) cuts right across the Outer
Bahamas. Initially the route passes west of Great
Inagua and those who wish to stop in the
Bahamas can clear in at Matthew Town, the main
settlement on that island. The route continues
northwards through the Mira-Por-Vos Passage, west
of Acklins and Crooked Islands and also west of
San Salvador Island before gaining the open
ocean. From San Salvador, a direct route can be set
to ports north of Cape Hatteras, whereas for ports
to the south of Cape Hatteras, the route turns NW
and runs parallel to the chain of islands. Attention
should be paid to the current setting strongly to
the l\TW along the Northern Bahamas, which is a
continuation of the Antilles Current. From WP
AN935, north of Great Abaco, the route turns north
and enters the Gulf Stream. For ports in Northern
Florida or South Carolina, it may be necessary to
continue to WP AN936, north of Grand Bahama,
before the course is altered for the port of desti-
nation. To take full advantage of the Gulf Stream,

especially if one's destination is in North Florida
or South Carolina, that initial course may have to
continue in a NW direction so as to reach the area
of the strongest current closer to the Florida coast.
The Windward Passage is clear of dangers but
attention is drawn to those continuing their voy-
age northwards through Caicos Passage, between
i
I
I
I. Because the prevailing winds in the Caribbean Sea
are NE or·E, all destinations on this route are to
windward of Panama for most of the year. Unless
I there is a shift of wind to the south, it would be
better to follow directions as for route AN93B and
then work one' s way eastward along the south
coast of Hispaniola with the help of land breezes.
Close inshore there is sometimes an east-setting
current. Boats bound for the north coast of Haiti
I
I,.
I
.
.
. 113
AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PA N AMA
Mayaguana Island and the Caicos Bank. Strong cur-
rents have been recorded in the Caicos Passage,
which have caused many ships and yachts to be
Jost on the reefs surrounding Mayaguana Island.
The currents appear to be much stronger than stat-
ed and are difficult to detect, especially if one sails
through the area by night. ·
and Dominican Republic should follow the same
directions as for route AN93B as far as the
I I
Windward Passage.
From WP AN940 outside the entrance to the u
Panama Canal, a direct course leads right across I
the Caribbean Sea to WP AN941, 10 miles SSE of I
Punta Palenque. The course is altered there for WP
AN942 in the approaches to Santo Domingo, the
Dominican capital.
i
l
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN95 Panama to Virgin Islands
This is a difficult route throughout the year on
account of the prevailing winds and the west-
setting current. The direct route offers two alter-
natives, either south of Puerto Rico (AN95A), or
via the Mona Passage and north of Puerto Rico
(AN95B). On both those routes the initial course
has to clear Manzanilla Point at WP AN951 before
a clear course can be set diagonally across the
Caribbean Sea. Boats bound directly for St
Thomas will make their landfall at WP AN952, off
Vieques Island, east of Puerto Rico. Boats prefer-
ring to sail around the north coast of Puerto Rico
will make their landfall at WP AN953 at the
entrance into the Mona Passage. The route then
swings around the NW point of Puerto Rico at WP
AN954 from where it runs parallel to the north
coast as far as St Thomas.
These two direct routes have a better chance of
favourable conditions in early summer, when SE
winds are not uncommon. Lighter winds may be
experienced at the change of seasons, another time
when this passage can be attempted. At all other
114
1
times two radically different routes offer more
attractive alternatives. Depending on the time of
year, it might be better to sail route AN93 through
the Windward Passage and then turn east along
the north coasts of Hispaniola and Puerto Rico.
Another possibility is to sail as close to the wind
as possible to the south coast of Hispaniola and
then continue to the Virgins by either staying south
of Puerto Rico or going north of the island
through the Mona Passage. See also route AN94.
As none of the above alternatives should be
attempted during the hurricane season, a more
drastic alternative may have to be contemplat-
ed entailing a lengthy detour through the
Southern Caribbean. Such a route has the attrac-
tion that it can be sailed at almost any time of the
year. This entails a detour to Venezuela and the
islands off the Venezuelan coast and offers the
possibility of spending the summer in this safer
area before heading north at the end of the hur-
ricane season. Routes AN97 and AN98 have more
details.

AN96 Panama to Lesser Antilles
This can be a very rough trip as the direct passage
is to windward all the way. It is a challenge that
is faced by all those who intend to head east after
transiting the Panama Canal. Because of the sheer
difficulty of reaching the Eastern Caribbean non-
stop, most boats break up the voyage into short-
er stages by stopping at some places on the way.
Some call in first at the San Blas Islands, for which
the compulsory cruising permit should be
obtained before leaving Cristobal. An additional
permit must be obtained on arrival in Porvenir,
which is an obligatory stop for those wishing to
cruise the San Blas Islands. Whether calling at the
San Blas Islands or not, a further stop can be made
in Colombia. The next stop could be the island of
Aruba, unless one is prepared to sail nonstop to
the Lesser Antilles, a task which is not easily
accomplished because 'of the contrary wind and
current along the Venezuelan coast.
The best time for a passage along a southern
route is between June and August, when the trade
winds are less consistent in both strength and direc-
tion than in winter. October and November, the
AN97 Panama to Colombia
).
~.·
l
AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PANAMA
other two months when one can expect lighter
winds, are still in the hurricane season, and
although Venezuela and the offlying islands are.
mostly outside the hurricane belt, conditions in the
Western Caribbean can become extremely
uncomfortable if a hurricane is passing farther to
the ~ast or north. The worst time to do this pas-
sage is at the height of the winter trades, from
January to early April.
The eastbound passage through Venezuelan
waters should be made as close inshore as possi-
ble to take advantage of both land and sea breezes
and a favourable current that runs close to the coast.
At night the trade winds usually die away and this
is the time to sail inshore to use the land breeze.
A boat which sails well to windward can take an
offshore tack during the day and head for the shore
before nightfall. In this way Grenada can be reached
in short hops and from there any of the other islands
in the Eastern Caribbean. The first stage of an east-
bound voyage is described in detail in route AN97.
An alternative way of reaching islands in the NE
Caribbean is described in route AN95.
i
I
115
ROUTES !N THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Reaching the Atlantic coast of Colombia from
neighbouring Panama is not easily accomplished
at any time of the year on account of the contrary
wind and strong current. A convenient stop en
route is the San Blas Islands, which belong to
Panama. The route then cuts across the Gulf of
Darien to Carta"gena, an attractive historic town,
which has become the most popular port of call
among cruising boats visiting Colombia. From WP
AN970, at the entrance to the Panama Canal, a first
course should be ~et for WP AN971, 10 miles N of
AN98 Panama to Venezuela and the ABC Islands
Those who do not intend to stop in Colombia are
faced with a long offshore tack to WP AN981, 30
miles north of Punta de Gallinas. Having reached
that point, a first stop can be made in Aruba, where
Port Control should be contacted on VHF chan-
nel 16 for berthing and clearance instructions
before entering Oranjestad.
The above course is difficult, if not impossible,
to hold against the prevailing NE or E winds of
winter and this passage is better attempted at the
change of seasons. Light winds and even calms
occur sometimes in November, and if one is pre-
pared to use the engine good progress can be made
while favourable conditions last. Better conditions
may be encountered early in summer, when a
southern component in the trade winds may pro-
vide some help in one's tacking efforts.
At all other times there is unfortunately no alter-
native to a hard beat to windward and the undis-
puted difficulty of this route must be seriously
considered before including it in one' s overall
cruising plans. A direct nonstop route eastwards
from Panama is extremely difficult because of both
adverse winds and current, which can set west-
wards at up to 2 knots. At the height of the trade
116
Punta Manzanillo. The course is then altered for
WP AN972 in the approaches to the port of
Cartagena. The area should be approached with cau-
tion because of the dangers in the approaches to
Cartagena. Also avoided should be the silted Boca
Grande as the dredged entrance is Boca Chica, iden-
tified by a landfall buoy, close to the end of Isla de
Tierra Bomba. An 8 mile long chsinnel leads north-
ward through the shallow Bania de Cartagena to
the commercial port and two marinas.
wind season the winds themselves often blow at
force 7 or even 8 and this combined with the cur-
rent makes progress almost impossible. The log-
ical solution is to cover this section in short cruising
stages by sailing first to the San Blas Islands, then
Cartagena in Colombia (see route AN97), where
to wait for a favourable change in the weather.
Occasionally the predominantly easterly winds will
have enough north in them to allow some short
tacks along the Colombian coast. Such tacks should
be very short so as to keep out of the strength of
the main west-setting current and also benefit from
some shelter from the swell. Detailed coastal charts
will be needed as well as both a boat capable of
beating to windward and a crew prepared to put
up with the hard going.
A different way to reach Venezuela and the ABC
Islands is to reserve them for the end of a
Caribbean cruise. In such a case, it is both easier
and more comfortable to sail north on leaving
Panama by following the directions for one of the
northbound routes and eventually re~ch
Venezuela from the north and Lesser Antilles. See
routes AN94 and AN95 for more details.
 AN100 ROUTES IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA

AN100 ROUTES IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA

AN101 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Lesser Antilles ·118
AN102 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Virgin Islands 118
AN103 Northbound from Venezuela and the ABC Islands 119
AN104 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Panama 120
AN105 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Colombia 121
AN106 Colombia to Panama 122
AN107 Jamaica to Panama 123
AN108 Jamaica to Central America and Mexico 124

The fact that Venezuela and the offshore islands
lie to the south of the hurricane belt, while still
being in the trade wind zone, is the main attrac-
tion of this area for those who wish to continue
cruising during the summer months when the risk
of hurricanes hangs over the rest of the Caribbean.
Although most of the area is outside the hurricane
area, very rarely a rogue storm has been known
to head that way and heavy swells can be expe-
rienced when a hurricane is passing further
north. The offshore islands of Venezuela and the
former Dutch territories of Aruba, Bonaire, and
Cura~ao are all under the influence of the NE trade
winds for most of the year and enjoy similar weath-
er conditions to the more southern islands of the
Lesser Antilles.

60°W

bo ~AYAGUANA

QQ~~:ifJl

20'N

~ VIRGIN ISLANDS
~ ,

~ ANTIGUA
no
t>i 'I
~

BD'W

ANlOO Routes in the Caribbean Sea

117
I
,.
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
The weather along continental Venezuela is influ-
enced by the land mass of the South American con-
tinent. The NE trade winds have a pronounced
easterly component along this coast, particularly
from March to June. The season of the strongest
winds is December to April when the trades blow
NE to E. From June to September, when most peo-
ple choose to cruise this area, the winds are lighter
and more variable. The land mass causes easter-
ly breezes which usually blow in the daytime and
die out at night, it often being quite calm at dawn.
AN101 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Lesser Antilles
Because of the direction of the prevailing wind it
is usually better to work one's way east between
the coast and the offlying islands before setting
course for one of the Lesser Antilles. The distance
between Venezuela's Margarita Island and
Grenada, the most southerly of the Lesser
Antilles, is only 140 miles. However, rather than
beat against the strong w ind and equally strong
current, it is better to sail as close to the wind as
'I
I.
"
I;
AN102 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Virgin Islands
118
The day breeze picks.up during the morning and
by mid-afternoon can blow quite strongly. From
May to November, there are strong southerly
squalls which lose their intensity as.they head off-
shore. In the Maracaibo area local afternoon squalls
called chubascos can blow with up to 50 knots of
wind. In the same area strong winds build up in
the winter due to the desert heating up and draw-
ing the wind inland off the wat~r. In the autumn
hot short blasts called calderatas occasionally
blow down the mountains.
possible and make for one of the islands further
to the north. Towards spring, with a better chance
of SE winds, direct passages to more northerly
islands are easier to accomplish, but even then it
is better to start off from as far east as possible.
This is normally easier at the change of seasons
when lighter winds make it possible to gain some
easting with the help of the engine.

This is a difficult passage during the winter months
when the trade winds may have too much north
in them. From December to April it is usually eas-
ier to reach the Virgins by following the sugges-
tion in AN101 and then sail north in short hops
along the chain of Lesser Antilles. For a direct pas-
sage (AN102A), it is better to wait until the sec-
ond half of April, when there is a better chance of
having the wind from a more favourable direction.
Taking one's departure from WP AN1020 off
Aruba's NW point, the direct offshore route
leads to WP AN1021 SE of Vieques Island, off
Puerto Rico's east coast. If it proves too diffo;:ult
AN103 Northbound from Venezuela and the ABC Islands
AN100 RO UTES I N THE CARIBBEAN SEA
!:
to lay such a direct course for the Virgins, it is bet-
ter to use the Mona Passage by setting course for
WP AN1022 and reach the Virgin Islands by sail-
ing along the north coast of Puerto Rico
(AN102B). However, sh~uld it be impossible to lay
a course even for the Mona Passage because of
unfavourable winds, landfall can be made further
west, along the coast of Hispaniola, from where
it should be possible to work one's way east along
the coast with the help of a fair inshore current and
land breezes. The same can be done along the south
coast of Puerto Rico if a detour via Mona Passage
is not attractive.
"
119
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
For those who have cruised in this area and do not
plan to continue their voyage towards Panama and
possibly the Pacific Ocean, but intend to sail either
to the USA or Europe, the best season for the north-
bound passage is spring, when the winds usual-
ly start shifting to the SE. It is best to start this
passage from as far east as possible, both Bonaire
and Cura<;ao being good points of departure. If
heading for the Mona Passage allowance should
be made for the west-setting current during the
crossing of the Caribbean Sea. In case one cannot
Jay Mona Passage and one is swept to the west, it
is possible to break the trip on the south coast of
Hispaniola and then work one's way east with the
help of an easterly current that sets close inshore.
As there is a good deal of north in the trades dur-
ing the early part of winter, the passage should not
be attempted too early in the year. The best time
to attempt the direct route (AN103A) across the·
Caribbean Sea is April or May, when there is less
of a chance of the winds swinging to the north. If
one plans to carry on towards Europe, from Mona
Passage a direct course can be set for Bermuda.
Boats bound for ports east of New York may also
consider such a stop in Bermuda. For the contin-
uation of the rout~ north of Mona Passage see also
routes AN87, AN88, and AN102.
For those sailing to ports on the east coast of the
AN104 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Panama
L~
';
I
120
USA, and not interested in a detour to Bermuda,
the alternative on leaving Mona Passage is to take
a NW route parallel to the Bahamas and reach ports
south of Cape Hatteras by staying offshore
(AN103B). Alternatively it is possible to take a
route which goes to Florida via the Bahamas and
then use the Intracoastal Waterway to reach
more northern ports (AN103C). If this latter
alternative is being considered, it would hardly
be worth fighting the elements to reach the Mona
Passage when a route through the Windward
Passage would be considerably easier to accom-
plish. In this case from AN1030 a course should
be set for WP AN1034 east of Navassa Island, off
Hispaniola's SW extremity. From there the route
turns north towards the Windward Passage and
continues either right through the Bahamas or
turns NW through the Old Bahama Channel. No
further waypoints are listed for this inshore
route to Southern Florida. Boats bound for more
northerly ports should refer to route AN93D (page
112) which describes the continuation of this route
through the Outer Bahamas and beyond.
Another way to reach Southern Florida is to cross
the entire Caribbean Sea and reach the Gulf of
Mexico through the Yucatan Channel. In that case,
directions for the later part of the passage are given
in AN83 (page 99).

A large number of westbound boats stop in
Venezuela or the offiying islands before continu-
ing the voyage towards Panama. Although this
route is just outside the region affected by hurri-
canes, it is better to plan this passage for the inter-
mediate seasons when more pleasant conditions
can be expected.
The best point of departure for Panama is Aruba,
from where a course should be steered to pass
ra pidly into deeper waters. On leaving Aruba, the
shallow bank to its west should be avoided as the
west-setting offshore current combined with an
east-setting inshore cu rent can produce rough and
confused seas. The recommended course is outside
the 1000 fathom line, which avoids the rough seas
that occur in the shallower waters closer to land.
AN105 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Colombia
After being avoided for many years by cruising
boats, Colombia is again being included in cruis-
ing plans and a large number of visiting boats are
stopping in Colombia, especially in the historic city
of Cartagena. Directions for sailing to Colombia
AN100 RO UTES I N THE CARIBB EAN SEA
From WP AN1040 outside Oranjestad, the
course should be set for WP AN1041 28 miles north
of Punta Gallinas on Guajira Peninsula just out-
side the 1000 fathom line. From there, a direct
course can be set for WP A 1042 10 miles N of
Punta Manzanillo and 30 miles from the Panama
Canal entrance. Then the course should be altered
for WP AN1043 at the landfall buoy off the entrance
into the port of Cristobal Colon. Traffic Control
should be contacted on VHF channel 12. Traffic
lights control the passage through the breakwa-
ters and small boats are advised to keep as close
as possible to the sides. See page 489 for detailed
instructions concerning entry and transit proce-
d ure for the Panama Canal.
are similar to routes AN73 and AN74 (pages 88-9).
Boats leaving from Aruba should set an initial
course for WP AN1051 28 m iles north of Punta
Gallinas on Guajira Peninsula. From there the rec-
ommended route leads to WPs AN1052 and
121
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN1053. Both points are just outside the 1000 fath-
om line, although strong winds and high seas can
be expected on this route, especially during the
winter months. From waypoint AN1053 the
course can be altered for WP AN1054 in the
approaches to the port of Cartagena. The area should
be approached with caution because of the dangers
in the approaches. Also avoid the silted Boca
Grande as the dredged entrance is Boca Chica,
identified by a landfall buoy, close to the end of Isla
de Tierra Bomba. An 8 mile long channel leads
northward through the shallow Bahia de
Cartagena to the commercial port and two marinas.
AN106 Colombia to Panama
Most boats take their leave from Colombia in
Cartagena, from where a direct course leads across
the Gulf of Darien to the Panama Canal entrance.
From outside Cartagena, at WP AN1060 a course
can be set for WP AN1061, 10 miles N of Punta
Manzanillo. The course can then be altered for WP
AN1062, the landfall buoy at the entrance to the
Panama Canal. The above course passes outside
the San Blas Islands and stays in deeper water to
avoid the rougher seas further inshore. The voy-
age can be interrupted in the San Blas Islands,
122
As on most other routes in the Caribbean Sea,
best conditions are encountered in either April-
May, or November. Because the route crosses an
area known for its rough seas, Aruba should not
be left in winds over 30 knots, or if there is a fore-
cast of strong winds to come. The current will be
in one's favour almost all the way to Cartagena,
with sets of 1.5 to 2 knots, alti}ough a counter-
current may make itself felt in the last 20-30 miles
to Cartagena. The area around Cartagena is
affected by a violent southerly wind called
chocosono, which can attain 50 or even 60 knots.
which belong to Panama and where one can clear
and obtain the compulsory cruising permit at
Porvenir (9"34'N, 78"57'.W).
The area to be crossed is not subjected to trop-
ical storms, although the effect will be felt if a hur-
ricane occurs further north. During winter
months passages along this route will be affected
by the large swell caused by the strong trade winds
piling up the water in this corner of the
Caribbean.

AN107 Jamaica to Panama
A direct route (AN107A) leads to Panama from
ports in the eastern part of Jamaica. The winds will
be light while in the lee of the island, but outside
Jamaica's wind shadow they will rapidly become
strong with large seas. The strong winds and high
seas experienced on this route for most of the year,
combined with a strong west-setting current, call
for accurate navigation as the route passes dan-
gerously close to a number of offshore banks. As
the direct route to Panama leads close to the New
and Pedro Banks, sufficient allowance for leeway
i should be made when setting a course to wind-
i ward of them. The area should also be avoided
because of the breaking seas that occur over the
shallows. Both these banks can be very dangerous
I in heavy weather and their vicinity should be
avoided. Another hazard is the many fishing boats,
I some of which do not show lights, as well as the
buoyed nets set on the banks.
From WP AN1071 south of Plumb Point, in
II the approaches to Kingston, a course should be
set for WP AN1072 to pass well to the east of
the various banks. If leaving from one of the
ports on the NE coast of Jamaica, a course should
I be shaped around the east of the island and you
should make for the same waypoint AN1072. From
II there it is a clear run to WP AN1073, the landfall
J '.,
~1: .
i 123
AN100 ROUTES IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA
buoy in the approaches to the Panama Canal.
For boats leaving from ports in the west of
Jamaic;:a, the route has to avoid a series of dangers,
and as some of their positions, as depicted on the
charts, are not entirely accurate, the area should
be approached with great caution. Having passed
Point Negri!, at the western extremity of Jamaica,
from WP AN1074 set course for WP AN1075 to
pass between Rosalind and Serranilla Banks. The
course is then altered for WP AN1076 halfway
between Sueno and Serrana Banks, both of which
have lights. The next WP AN1077 is 20 miles east
of Roncador Bank, from where the course can be
altered for WP AN1073 at the entrance into the port
of Cristobal. Boats approaching the breakwaters
at the entrance into the Panama Canal should call
Traffic Control on VHF channel 12. Traffic lights
regulate the passage between the breakwaters, but
small boats may pass if they keep dose to the side,
both when passing through the breakwaters and
in the shipping channels.
Boats going straight to the San Blas fslands
should be aware of the poor visibility in their vicin-
ity as low cloud often obscures the mainland and
land may not become visible until a few miles
away. The official port of entry is Porvenir
(9 '34'N, 78'57'W).
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN1053. Both points are just outside the 1000 fath-
om line, although strong winds and high seas can
be expected on this route, especially during the
winter months. From waypoint AN1053 the
course can be altered for WP AN1054 in the
approaches to the port of Cartagena. The area should
be approached with caution because of the dangers
in the approaches. Also avoid the silted Boca
Grande as the dredged entrance is Boca Chica,
identified by a landfall buoy, close to the end of Isla
de Tierra Bomba. An 8 mile long channel leads
northward through the shallow Bahia de
Cartagena to the commercial port and two marinas.
AN106 Colombia to Panama
Most boats take their leave from Colombia in
Cartagena, from where a direct course leads across
the Gulf of Darien to the Panama Canal entrance.
From outside Cartagena, at WP AN1060 a course
can be set for WP AN1061, 10 miles N of Punta
Manzanillo. The course can then be altered for WP
AN1062, the landfall buoy at the entrance to the
Panama Canal. The above course passes outside
the San Blas Islands and stays in deeper water to
avoid the rougher seas further inshore. The voy-
age can be interrupted in the San Blas Islands,
122
As on most other routes in the Caribbean Sea,
best conditions are encountered in either April-
May, or November. Because the route crosses an
area known for its rough seas, Aruba should not
be left in winds over 30 knots, or if there is a fore-
cast of strong winds to come. The current will be
in one's favour almost all the way to Cartagena,
with sets of 1.5 to 2 knots, altl)ough a counter-
current may make itself felt in tlie last 20-30 miles
to Cartagena. The <rrea around Cartagena is
affected by a violent southerly wind called
chocosono, which can attain 50 or even 60 knots.
which belong to Panama and where one can clear
and obtain the compulsory cruising permit at
Porvenir (9 "34'N, 78"57'.W).
The area to be crossed is not subjected to trop-
ical storms, although the effect will be felt if a hur-
ricane occurs further north. During winter
months passages along this route will be affected
by the large swell caused by the strong trade winds
piling up the water in this corner of the
Caribbean.
r AN107 Jamaica to Panama
I,. A direct route (AN107A) leads to Panama from
ports in the eastern part of Jamaica. The winds will
be light while in the lee of the island, but outside
Jamaica's wind shadow they will rapidly become
I strong with large seas. The strong winds and high
seas experienced on this route for most of the year,
combined with a strong west-setting current, call
I
I
for accurate navigation as the route passes dan-
gerously close to a number of offshore banks. As
the direct route to Panama leads close to the New
and Pedro Banks, sufficient allowance for leeway
should l;>e made when setting a course to wind-
ward of them. The area should also be avoided
because of the breaking seas that occur over the
shallows. Both these banks can be very dangerous
in heavy weather and their vicinity should be
avoided. Another hazard is the many fishing boats,
some of which do not show lights, as well as the
I buoyed nets set on the banks.
From WP AN1071 south of Plumb Point, in
the approaches to Kingston, a course should be
\. set for WP AN1072 to pass well to the east of
I the various banks. If leaving from one of the
I ports on the NE coast of Jamaica, a course should
1/.
1-;._.. be shaped around the east of the island and you
should make for the same waypoint AN1072. From
there it is a clear run to WP AN1073, the landfall
AN100 ROUTES IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA
I'
buoy in the approaches to the Panama Canal.
For boats leaving from ports in the west of
Jamaica, the route has to avoid a series of dangers,
and as some of their positions, as depicted on the
charts, are not entirely accurate, the area should
be approached with great caution. Having passed
Point Negri!, at the western extremity of Jamaica,
from WP AN1074 set course for WP AN1075 to
pass between Rosalind and Serranilla Banks. The
course is then altered for WP AN1076 halfway
between Sueno and Serrana Banks, both of which
have lights. The next WP AN1077 is 20 miles east
of Roncador Bank, from where the course can be
altered for WP Ai'l1073 at the entrance into the port
of Cristobal. Boats approaching the breakwaters
at the entrance into the Panama Canal should call
Traffic Control on VHF channel 12. Traffic lights
regulate the passage between the breakwaters, but
small boats may pass if they keep close to the side,
both when passing through the breakwaters and
in the shipping channels.
Boats going straight to the San Blas Islands
should be aware of the poor visibility in their vicin-
ity as low cloud often obscures the mainland and
land may not become visible until a few miles
away. The official port of entry is Porvenir
(9 "34'N, 78"57'W).
123
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN108 Jamaica to Central America and Mexico
Westbound routes from Jamaica benefit from both
good winds and a favourable current during most
of the year. The best time for passages along these
routes is the transition months of April-May, before
the hurricane season, or November before the onset
of winter northers, which may be felt west of
Jamaica and can seriously aff.ect weather in the Gulf
of Mexico and, to a smaller extent, further south.
Boats leaving from ports on either side of Jamaica
and bound for the Bay of Islands in Honduras
(AN108A) should set course for WP AN1081 south
of Swan Island. A convenient place to clear into
Honduras is at Guanaja. The route to Belize also
passes right by Swan Island. To reach Belize City
AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA
ANlll Northbound from the Bahamas and Florida
AN112 Bahamas to Bermuda
AN113 Bahamas to the Eastern Caribbean
AN114 Bahamas to Panama and Central America
ANUS Florida to Bermuda
AN116 Florida to the Eastern Caribbean
AN117 Southbound from Florida
124
one has to use one of several passes through the
reefs, Eastern Channel being the main shipping
channel.
The route to the Gulf of Mexico passes close to
the Cayman Islands, where the voyage may be
interrupted at the capital Georgetown on Grand
Cayman. From there the route continues towards
the Yucatan Channel and WP AN1083 off Cuba's
Cape San Antonio. Boats bound for ports in the
Gulf of Mexico can wait for favourable conditions
to cross the Gulf at Isla Mujeres, an official port
of entry into Mexico, in which case a course should
be set for WP AN1084, off that island's south point,
Punta Sur.
126
127
128
129
130
130
131
 AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA
AN110
The low lying islands of the Bahamas and their
associated banks and reef areas offer a wide choice
of anchorages, especially to shallow drafted craft.
Although cruised by a large number of boats, few
arrive in the Bahamas at the end of a long offshore
passage since most boats reach the islands in short
hops, mostly from Florida.
The prevailing winds are from NE to SE with the
most northern islands lying on the edge of the trade
wind belt. As the islands are low there is no reg-
ular land breeze. Northers interrupt the NE
trades with regularity during the winter and typ-
ically start with the wind veering to the S and SW.
When the cold front arrives, the wind suddenly
shifts to the NW then N and usually blows itself
out in the NE. After a while, the normal winds take
over from more or less their usual direction. In
mid-winter, the cycle can take several days, in
spring only 24 hours. Most northers are dry,
although on occasions they can be accompanied
by rain and thunder squalls. However, they very
; ~,
;.&:
~ BERMUDA
20°N
rarely bring winds over 30 knots and mainly the
more northerly Bahamas are the most affected by ·,.
these northers.
Summer weather starts around May, after the last I
norther has blown itself out, and lasts until '·
November. The trades are more SE in the summer
and most winds during these months are from E '
ij
or SE. During August and September there can be ·I
periods of calms, especially at night. Jhe balmy jl
summer weather can be interrupted occasionally
by an Easterly Wave, a trough of low pressure
found in the trade wind belt. This is usually accom-
panied by showers and high humidity.
Sometimes Easterly Waves can degenerate into
tropical depressions and even hurricanes. May to
October are the wettest months and rainy squalls
occur during this season.
In Florida the prevailing winds are E and SE, but
they become more variable higher up the coast,
tending to be more SW. Thunderstorms are more
common in summer, although there are few
125
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC
gales. However, in this season hurricanes can affect
the eastern seaboard over the whole region,
those arising in the Atlantic usually approaching
from the E and SE. Tropical storms generated in
the Caribbean Sea come from the south and are
more frequent in the months of September and
October. The whole area is affected by weather con-
ditions on the North American land mass and the
semipermanent anticyclone stationed there. As the
pressure rises, it develops into a norther, a N and
NW flow of cold air that blows hard for several
days. During the winter, gales occur, as depressions
move across the southern states eastward into the
ANlll Northbound from the Bahamas and Florida
d
I·
Although there is a steady movement of boats
I· between the Bahamas and Florida virtually
throughout the year, offshore passages to more
t northern states are restricted to spring and early
summer. This is the time when boats, which have
11
passed the winter in the tropics, return home.
However, even at the best of times, some people
prefer to forgo the attractions of a quick offshore
passage and instead take the Intracoastal
Waterway.
The best time for an offshore passage, especially
for ports north of the Chesapeake Bay, is in spring
and early summer, w hen the chances of
i 126
" I
TI
Atlantic. North of Florida these fronts bring strong
SW gales, the wind veering W or NW behind the
depression.
I
The hurricane season is from June to November,
although usually in June and Ju.ly hurricanes pass
to the south of the Bahamas. The most dangerous
months are August to October, but hurricanes have
been recorded as early as May.' and as late as
December. The Bahamas have one of the highest
frequencies of hurricanes in the North Atlantic, as
they are in the path of hurricanes generated in both
the Atlantic and the Caribbean.
favourable winds are highest and there is little or
no danger of either late northers or early hurri-
canes. The latter danger increases with the
approach of summer, but even then offshore pas-
sages are feasible provided one leaves with a
favourable long term forecast. A stop in Bermuda
is not really recommended, except for boats
bound for Canadian ports.
Because of the favourable set of the Gulf
Stream, the route should use this advantage to the
maximum. However, if there is a likelihood of
strong northerly winds, it is better to forgo it and
wait for better conditions, if leaving from a port
~------------------------- -
AN110
in South Florida, or sail a more offshore route, if
leaving from the Bahamas or Northern Florida.
For destinations south of Cape Hatteras, boats
leaving from Florida have little choice but to sail
a course roughly parallel to the coast. Boats tak-
ing an offshore route from the Bahamas, from WP
AN1111, in the NE Providence Channel, should set
an initial course for WP ANI112, NE of Great Abaco
Island. From that point, boats bound for more
northern destinations can sail a direct offshore
route (AN111A). Boats bound for southern ports
AN112 Bahamas to Bermuda
Similar directions apply as for route AN115, which
is used by boats sailing from Florida to Bermuda.
The recommended time for a passage from the
Bahamas is late spring or early summer, w hen
weather conditions on this route will be better than
at any other time. If leaving from the Northern
Bahamas a NNE course can be easily followed with
the help of the prevailing winds and the north set-
ting Gulf Stream. During the summer months the
winds north of the Bahamas are usually from the
SE, so it is sometimes possible to sail a direct course
from the Bahamas to Bermuda right through the
Horse Latitudes. Light winds are sometimes
experienced along this route and gales are very rare
at the recommended time of year. Although the
-·---- - : :
ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA
may continue in a NW direction before altering .,
course for the port of destination (ANI11 B). To take
full advantage of the Gulf Stream, especially if
one's destination is in North Florida or South
Carolina, that initial course may have to contin-
ue in a NW direction so as to reach the area of the
strongest current closer to the Florida coast. Latest
information on the location and strength of the Gulf
Stream can be obtained from NOAA Miami, who
issue regular Gulf Stream flow charts, and can be
contacted on Tel. (305) 665 4707.
hurricane season officially starts in Bermuda on
1st June, hurricanes rarely pass that way before
the end of July and even when they do, their path
is to the west of Bermuda nearer to the American
mainland.
If the NE Providence Channel is used as a point
of departure from the Bahamas, from WP AN1121
a direct course can be set for WP AN1122 south
of Gibbs Hill, at the SW point of Bermuda. From
there the course runs parallel to the island to WP
AN1123 off St David' s Head. Town Cut leads into
St George' s Harbour, the official port of.entry into
Bermuda. The narrow cut, although well buoyed
and lit, should not be attempted at night by those
unfamiliar with the area.
127
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN113 Bahamas to the Eastern Caribbean
Having reached the Southern Bahamas either by
one of the offshore routes or through the islands,
the subsequent leg to the Virgins will be to wind-
ward for most of the way and also for most of the
year. The route has been called the 'thorny path',
and for very good reason. The best time to under-
take it is at the change of seasons, when the trade
winds are lighter and the risk of hurricanes not so
great. Another matter of concern, apart from the
contrary winds, are the strong currents that occur
in this area. These, combined with the numerous
reefs, low islands, and few lights call for accurate
navigation at all times.
Those who are determined to sail offshore to
either the Virgins or Lesser Antilles, and are con-
fident that their boat is capable of it, should gain
the open ocean by the quickest way and set an east-
erly course as soon as possible. This avoids the
strong NW current setting parallel to the Bahamas.
If the winds allow it, the due east course should
be held until the longitude of the port of destina-
tion is reached and course is altered to the south.
An offshore passage from the Southern
Bahamas to the Virgins, either direct (AN113A) or
via Puerto Rico, can regain the ocean through the
Crooked Island, Mayaguana, Caicos, or Turks
Passages. The initial course should lead well clear
of all dangers, including the banks east of Grand
Turk. A variation of such an offshore route is
described in AN11 6. Because of contrary wind and
current, such a passage would be very difficult;
unless the winds are northerly or light, an alter-
native route (AN113B) may have to be considered.
This means staying south of Caicos and sailing
along the north coasts of Hispaniola and Puerto
Rico. Even when the trade winds are strong these
high islands provide some lee and light coastal
breezes.
Directions for boats sailing to one of the north-
ern islands in the Lesser Antilles are very similar.
l?R
However, those whose destination lies further
south, should consider taking an offshore route from
the Mona Passage onwards. Having sailed along
the north coast of Hispaniola as far as Samana, at
Mona Passage the route enters the Caribbean Sea.
At the beginning of winter, NE winds ought to make
it possible to reach some of the more southern
islands, such as Grenada or Trinidad, on one tack.
This route is not recommended towilrds spring
when the winds become SE.
An alternative chosen every year by numerous
sailors is to sail the distance in short stages. The
best tactics to be deployed are described in The
Gentleman's Guide to Passages South, which is ded-
icated to this very route. The advice given in that
book, and also by others who have sailed that dif-
ficult route, is to take one' s time and watch the
weather carefully. Even in winter, when strong east-
erlies are the norm, the frequent fronts provide a
respite of calms and light winds. The recommended
tactic is to sail ahead of such fronts and then run
for shelter as the front approaches. The weather
is usually uncomfortable for 12 hours before a
frontal passage and for about 24 hours afterwards.
As the voyage may be interrupted in the Turks
and Caicos Islands, entry formalities in those
islands can be completed at the following ports:
Sapodilla Bay (Providenciales, 21 '44'N, 72'17'W),
Cockburn Harbour (South Caicos, 21 '30'N,
71 '31'W), and Cockburn Town (Grand Turk,
21 '28'N, 71 '06'W). Convenient ports of entry on
the north coast of the Dominican Republic are
Puerto Plata (19'49'N, 70 '42'W), Manzanillo Bay
(19'43'N, 71 '45'W), and Samana (19 '12'N,
69'26'W). The official port of entry on Puerto Rico's
west coast is Mayaguez (18 '12'N, 67'07'W) and not
Boqueron. Although a US territory, US boats must
clear into Mayaguez like everyone else. An addi-
tional suggestion for those sailing along the
south coast of Puerto Rico, especially at night, is
 AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA
AN114 Bahamas to Panama and Central America
to avoid the numerous fish traps.
Regardless of the Bahamian port of departure, all
variations of this route converge on the
Windward Passage. Matthew Town, the main set-
tlement on Great Jnagua Island, is a good place to
stop before negotiating the Windward Passage and
is used as a hypothetical departure point. A course
for WP AN1141, eight miles NE of Cuba's Cape
Maisi, takes one into the southbound lane of the
traffic separation zone which operates off that cape.
Having negotiated the Windward Passage, the
route to Panama can pass on either side of
Navassa Island, but its western side is to be pre-
ferred in strong winds as seas break on the shal-
lows off the SW extremity of Hispaniola. A
course should be set for WP ANll 42, IO miles west
of Navassa Island. If a stop in Jamaica is not intend-
ed, the course leads to WP AN1143 about 20 miles
SE of Morant Cays. From there, the course should
be altered for WP AN1144, the seabuoy off the
Panama Canal entrance. The recommended route
across the Caribbean Sea stays clear of the vari-
ous banks and shallows. Allowance should be
made for leeway if passing close to Pedro and New
Banks as the current sets towards them.
The winds are favourable along this route
1
throughout the year, although both the hurricane
season and the strong trade winds of winter should
be avoided. In the latter case boisterous sailing con-
ditions can be predicted with certainty from
January to March when the trades are at their
strongest. The extent of the hurricane season is less
precisely defined and the actual months when there
is no danger of hurricanes are the same winter
months from January to April. The intermediate
months have a much lower frequency of tropical
storms, but hurricanes have been recorded even
as late as December, making passages through the
Caribbean more dangerous at the end than at the
beginning of the season. This is the reason why
southbound passages should be planned for late
winter or early spring.
For boats bound for Central American destina-
tions, whether in Belize, Guatemala, or
Honduras, the westbound route from the
Windward Passage runs between Cuba and
Jamaica, with possible stops in either of those coun-
tries as well as Grand Cayman, which is also close
to the direct route. Details for the route wes_tward
of Jamaica are given in route AN108 (page 124).
Boats bound for the south coast of Cuba can clear
in at Santiago de Cuba (19"59'N, 75"53'W).
129
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN115 Florida to Bermuda
This passage is made mostly in May and June, when
the chances of favourable conditions are better than
at any other time of the year. The timing suits most
people's plans as this route is sailed mostly by boats
that have spent the winter in Florida and are using
Bermuda as a convenient point before continuing
towards the Azores, Northern Europe, or the
Mediterranean. The prevailing winds in early sum-
mer are SW which, added to the favourable Gulf
Stream, can make for a speedy start to the passage.
The Miami office of NOAA issues regular Gulf
Stream flow charts and the latest information on
this can be obtained by telephoning (305) 665 4707.
Provided there is no forecast of a late norther, the
Gulf Stream can be ridden for a while, but soon-
er rather than later the direct course for Bermuda
must take priority. If leaving from ports in
Southern Florida, Grand Bahama Island and the
reefs and islets to the north of it should be passed
at a safe distance before the course is altered for
Bermuda. Having reached WP AN1151 off Grand
Bahama a direct course can be set for WP ANl 152,
AN116 Florida to the Eastern Caribbean
1'lll
south of Gibbs Hill, at the SW point of Bermuda.
From there the course runs parallel to the island
to WP ANl153 off St David's Head. Town Cut leads
into St George's Harbour, the official port of entry
into Bermuda. The narrow cut, although well
buoyed and lit, should not be attempted at night
by those unfamiliar with the area.
The SW winds experienced at the start of this
passage m~y become SE further offshore and occa-
sionally these can last as far as Bermuda. Weather
forecasts should be listened to regularly during this
passage as weather systems can change rapidly in
the areas crossed by this route. If the passage is
made early in the season, there is a real possibil-
ity of encountering strong northerly winds, in
which case one should try to move out of the Gulf
Stream as quickly as possible. Later in the season
there is the danger of tropical storms and, even if
they do not develop into fully fledged hurricanes,
depressions which form over the Bahamas usually
bring squally weather and rough seas.
 AN110
The timing for a direct passage from Florida to the
Eastern Caribbean is critical as a summer voyage
carries the risk of hurricanes and a winter voyage
that of contrary easterly winds as well as norther-
ly storms. Therefore the best time appears to be
November, when the danger of hurricanes is low
and winter gales are still rare.
The offshore route has the advantage that it can
also be sailed in winter, although it has the dis-
tinct disadvantage of strong contrary winds once
the trade winds are met. The offshore route is more
attractive to boats starting from Northern Florida
as they can set a direct course, which stays clear
of the Bahamas. Boats leaving from ports in
Southern Florida can join that same offshore route
by taking the NW and NE Providence Channels.
In both cases the recommended practice is to make
one's easting along latitude 25"N and only turn
south after meridian 65"N has been crossed . In
November and December the trade winds are mod-
erate NE, but become E and stronger after
January, so even this offshore route should not be
I:
1· ··
J:~i.
AN117 Southbound from Florida
l'{i.-
. '··
1d·
I .
.
..
ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA
I
'I
sailed too late in winter. Having reached the open
sea through the NE Providence Channel, from WP
AN1161, the tack will be sailed which makes best
easting to WP AN1162, if bound for the Virgin
Islands, or AN1163, if bound for one of the ports
in the Lesser Antilles. From WP AN1162, the course
is altered for WP AN1164, so as to make landfall
close to the island of Culebrita and approach St
Thomas from the north and west. An alternative
way of approaching the Virgin Islands from the
NE is described in route AN127(page141). Boats
bound for Antigua should set a course from
AN1163 for AN1165, so as to approach the island
from windward. Landfall will be made at WP
AN1166, east of English Harbour.
An alternative way to reach the Eastern
Caribbean is by the inter-island route that threads
its way through the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos,
Puerto Rico and beyond, an intricate and time con-
suming route that still does not avoid the strong
headwinds which await one at the end. This alter-
native is discussed in detail in route AN113.
131
RO UTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Many American sailors use Florida as a convenient
springboard to reach destinations south and
while this may work ou t well for some, for oth-
ers it may prove to be counterproductive. Mainly
for those sailing from northern states, who are
bound for Central America, getting there via the
Bahamas and Windward Passage makes more
sense than fighting one's way past Florida and
across the Gulf of Mexico.
In the summer the prevailing winds in Florida
are from the SE and the weather is rainy with heavy
squalls and calm periods. The Gulf of Mexico is
one of the areas most affected by hurricanes
between June and November, not only by those
forming in the Gulf itself but also by those trav-
elling from other areas of the Caribbean. From
September to N ovember hurricanes spawned in
the Western Caribbean are most likely to pass
through the Yucatan Channel and then curve
around north and east towards Cuba and Florida.
Tornadoes, waterspouts, and squalls are also a fea-
ture of the hurricane season.
The greatest dilemma faced by anyone planning
a voyage from Florida to any of the countries bor-
dering on the Caribbean Sea is whether to sail east
132
or west of Cuba. The situation will undoubtedly
change once that country's doors are fully opened
to cruising boats and visiting sailors will be able
to enjoy its many attractions. In the meantime,
boats setting off from Northern Florida are prob-
ably better off sailing through the Bahamas and
Windward Passage to reach Central America. The
answer is not so simple for boats leaving from
Southern Florida, for which both alternatives have
certain attractions. Although Mexico itself is
more easily reached by a direct route through the
Yucatan Channel, a voyage to Belize, Guatemala,
or Honduras by the same route is shorter but
toug her, mainly because of the contrary current.
In contrast, the roundabout route via the
Bahamas and Windward Passage is considerably
longer, but benefits from mostly favourable
winds and current, and also offers the chance of
several interesting stops en route.
The time of year when the passage is made will
have a major bearing on the choice of route. In win-
ter, when strong E and NE winds can be expect-
ed, a d irect route through the Yucatan Channel is
to be preferred, not just for destinations in
Guatemala, Belize, or Honduras, but even as far
 AN110
as Panama. However, this may mean waiting until
favourable conditions set in. In winter, the rec-
ommended time to leave is immediately after a
norther has blown itself out. The best time for a
southbound passage, at least as far south as the
Yucatan Peninsula, is from mid-April to the end
of June. At this time, winds may be light and one
has to be prepared to motor. To avoid the full
strength of the current, which can be as high as
2.5 knots, it is recommended to either sail a route
which stays close to the Dry Tortugas, or cross over
towards Cuba and follow that country's NW coast,
but making sure one does not stray into its terri-
torial waters. A good departure·point from the US
is Key West. The northern route (AN117A) stays
just outside the 100 fathom line to WP AN1171 , 14
miles south of the Dry Tortugas. From there a direct
course can be set to pass through the Yucatan
Channel to WP AN1172, two miles north of Isla
Mujeres, a convenient place to clear into Mexico.
From there one is in easy reach of the best cruis-
ing grounds in Central America, whether in
Belize, Guatemala, or Honduras.
If not intending to stop in Mexico or carry on
to Belize and Guatemala, it is probably better to
cross over from Key West to the Cuban side
(AN117B) and sail along its coast to WP AN1173,
eight miles off Cape San Antonio. A weak but
favourable countercurrent may be experienced
along Cuba's north coast. Having passed through
the Yucatan Channel, a direct course leads to WP
AN1174 between Sueno and Serrana Banks, both
of which have lights. From there, course is altered
AN120 ROUTES FROM BERMUDA
AN121 Bermuda to USA
AN122 Bermuda to Canada
AN123 Bermuda to Northern Europe
AN124 Bermuda to Gibraltar
AN125 Bermuda to Azores
AN126 Bermuda to Lesser Antilles
AN127 Bermuda to Virgin Islands
Bermuda occupies such a strategic position in the
Western Atlantic that even those planning not to
stop there find it difficult to bypass this attractive
island. Although good protection is assured in its
well sheltered harbours, the approaches to
Bermuda are dangerous and a brief look at the chart
ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA
for WP AN1175, the landfall buoy marking the
entrance into the Panama Canal.
Increasingly boats stop in Cuba and a convenient
place to clear into that country is Marina
Hemingway, west of Havana. The marina is
sometimes confusingly referred to as Barlovento
and the easiest way to find the entrance through
the reef is to identify the outer marker, whose GPS
coordinates are reported as 23"05.3'N, 82"29.3'W.
The entrance should not be attempted in s trong
onshore winds when big rollers break all around
the narrow pass through the reef. Guarda
Frontera should be contacted on VHF channel 16
when entering Cuban territorial waters.
Hemingway Marina monitors channel 72.
At the change of seasons, or in early summer,
a route v ia the Windward Passage (AN117C) may
be more attractive than the one through the Yucatan
Channel described above. From a port in North
Florida, such as St Augustine (AN1176), the
•:
Windward Passage is best reached by sailing on
a SE course which avoids the Abacos to WP
ANll 77. There the route turns south to pass west
of San Salvador, Crooked and Acklins Island to WP
AN1178, in Mira-Par-Vos Passage. A slight course
alteration will be needed to reach WP AN1179,
eight miles NE of Cuba's Cape Maisi. From there
on, the route south of the Windward Passage is
described in AN114. The southbound route across
the Caribbean Sea is also joined in the Windward
Passage by boats coming from ports in South
Florida, either via the Bahamas or through the Old
Bahama Channel.
135
136
137
137
138
140
141
j•
will explain why this cluster of islands surrounded
by reefs was first settled by shipwrecked :I
Englishmen on their way to America. In more
re~ent times a shipping exclusion zone has been
declared around Bermuda's shores, and ships are
warned to keep their distance unless they intend
133
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
to call there. However, with reliable lights ·and
clearly marked channels, the approaches are not
too dUficult, unless one attempts to make landfall
at night or in a southwesterly blow, neither of
which are recommended.
Bermuda is in the Horse Latitudes, the region
of variables north of the trade wind zone and south
of the westerlies. There is no prevailing wind and
the weather of the island is affected by two main
systems, the position of the Azores high and the
flow of weather systems over the eastern
seaboard of the United States into the Atlantic. In
summer the Azores high is the dominating feature
and produces SW winds of around 15 knots. The
Gulf Stream also influences the climate, making
the water around Bermuda warmer and keeping
the winters mild. Hurricanes cannot be ignored,
although most of these tropical storms which form
in the North Atlantic curve to pass to the west of
Bermuda, very few storms passing directly over
the island. The hurricane season is officially 1st
40"W
40' W
AN120 Routes from Bermuda
134
June to 30th November, the greatest frequency
occurring from August until October. In winter
high winds and gales strike the island, February
being the worst month with an average of 8 gales.
Around 1000 cruising boats call at Bermuda
every year, most of them spending only a few days
there before setting off for new destinations.
Bermuda is the finishing point-of various races
from the US east coast, the biannual race from
Newport being one of the longest established off-
shore races in the world. Most people, however,
use Bermuda as a convenient springboard either
to the Caribbean or to the Azores and Europe. The
routes radiating from Bermuda are very season-
al, the spring, from April to June, being busy with
boats returning home either to North America or
Europe. At such time, European boats are in the
majority and in Bermuda they are joined by US or
Canadian boats also bound for Europe. The sum-
mer sees mainly a two-way traffic from the USA
as the hurricane season keeps most people away
20•w
MADEIRA'
CAPE VERDEv
ISLANDS

from the Caribbean, while the autumn brings a new
influx of North American boats on their way south.
Those starting their transatlantic voyage in
Bermuda are confronted with a serious challenge
and there are few routes described in this book on
which access to up-to-date weather information
is of such paramount importance as the route to
the Azores. The position of the North Atlantic high
or anticyclone, commonly referred to as the
Azores high, ought to be known at all times and
a course chosen accordingly. Occasionally,
uncommon easterly winds slow down the boats
making their way to the Azores in spring. This is
due to the Azores high being situated much far-
ther north than its normal position for an unusu-
ally long time, allowing easterly winds to make
AN121 Bermuda to USA
Summer passages to most ports on the US east
coast normally benefit from pleasant weather and
the only thing to spoil the picture is the risk of trop-
ical storms whose tracks pass too close to
Bermuda for comfort. Such storms, however, are
kept under such close observation from the
moment they start forming that warnings are usu-
ally given long before they are likely to strike.
Nevertheless, passages during the months with the
highest frequency of hurricanes, from August to
the end of October, should be avoided. Safer pas-
AN120 ROUTES FROM BERMUDA
themselves felt as far north as 40'N. Under such
circumstances, even the accepted practice of
heading north to pick up the prevailing wester-
lies would make no difference.
Passages to the United States are very much a
matter of luck as they can be fast and comfortable
with southerly winds, or a hard beat if north-
westerly winds are generated by a depression pass-
ing to the north. Because of the north-setting Gulf
Stream, passages to ports south of Cape Hatteras
are a difficult undertaking. However, the Gulf
Stream does not affect passages to the Eastern
Caribbean, which are best undertaken at the change
of seasons, betweeen the middle of November and :I
early December.
..'
l
i'
sages, in both directions, can be made in late spring
and early summer. The high frequency of SW
winds in summer should provide good sailing con-
ditions to most ports lying north of Cape Hatteras,
but this is rarely the case. Even in May and June,
the weather can often tum quite mugh and the
worst conditions have been recorded in the area
of the Gulf Stream. The passage of cold fronts from ,.
continental America produces unsettled weather, '~ '
which is often accompanied by violent rain
squalls. This can be particularly dangerous in the
135
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Gulf Stream, when a strong wind blows against
the equally strong current and therefore the Gulf
Stream should always be crossed at right angles
to minimise the time spent in it. A ride in the Gulf
Stream should only be attempted if the weather
is settled.
Depending on weather conditions on leaving
Bermuda, the island can be left either to port or
starboard before course is set for one's port of des-
tination. If a SW course can be sailed after leav-
ing the island, the point of departure will be
WP AN1211 , SW of the island and well clear of all
dangers. Boats going around the north of
Bermuda and leaving the island to port will take
AN122 Bermuda to Canada
Weather conditions for this route are similar to
AN121, although the optimum time for sailing it
is somewhat later. One added complication is that
at the beginning of summer passages to ports in
Newfoundland can be affected by ice. Fog is yet
another consideration on these routes and these
factors limit northbound passages to the high sum-
mer. Favourable conditions can be expected at this
time because of a high proportion of SW winds.
Earlier passages, at the end of May or in June, may
also benefit from favourable winds, but a careful
eye should be kept on the weather and should there
be a gale warning, the course should be altered to
136
their departure at WP AN1212 off North Rock.
Because of the multitude of destinations and result-
ing routes, only landfall waypoints for the main
destination have been given, AN1213 SE off
Brenton Reef, for boats bound for Newport, or
AN1214 at the entrance into the south channel lead-
ing into the Chesapeake Bay. For those not famil-
iar with the USA, who are sailing there at the
beginning of the summer season, a ·useful tip is to
start their cruising as far north and east as possi-
ble, so as to benefit most from the warm weather
and also the reduced risk of hurricanes, and then
work their way gradually to the south.
avoid being caught on one of the banks where the
strong wind will generate very rough seas.
Similar action should be taken if there is a threat
of a northerly gale while riding the Gulf Stream.
Taking WP AN1221 north of Bermuda as a depar-
ture point, a direct course (AN122A) leads to WP
AN1222 in the approaches to Halifax, Nova
Scotia. Leaving from the same waypoint AN1221,
the course for St John's, Newfoundland
(AN122B), uses WP AN1223 SE of Cape Race, as
an intermediate point before course is altered for
WP AN1224 off Cape Spear in the approaches to
St John's.

AN123 Bermuda to Northern Europe
The nonstop route to Northern Europe is far less
popular than AN125, as most sailors prefer to stop
in the Azores, conveniently placed about halfway
between Bermuda and Europe. However, the direct
route has the advantage over route AN125 that
once the prevailing westerly winds have been
found they can usually be held for most of the
crossing. On leaving Bermuda, from WP AN1230
it is recommended to sail a NNE course to WP
AN1231 before altering course for WP AN1232.
Having reached that point, the great circle route
to the English Channel can be joined. It must be
stressed that both are highly hypothetical points,
as the main objective of the exercise is to reach as
quickly as possible the area of prevailing wester-
ly winds. To avoid the southern limit of ice, in early
summer it is recommended that the latitude of WP
AN1232 is not passed. If one has access to either
weather or ice information, and knows what to
expect in the immediate future, or if favourable
SW winds are found right from the start, the great
circle route can be joined directly. Occasionally it
AN124 Bermuda to Gibraltar
AN120 RO UTES FR OM BE RMUDA
I
i
I:
may be necessary to go to 40 "N or even further
north to reach the area of prevailing westerlies.
While the frequency of gales is lower to the south
of the recommended route, the temptation to turn
east too soon should be resisted because of the dan-
ger of losing the westerlies as one enters the Azores
high which extends further north in summer. The
Gulf Stream runs along most of this route and a
favourable rate of at least 1/2 lsnot can be expect-
ed. Boats that have tried to follow th e great circle
route all the way from Bermuda to the English
Channel have experienced prolonged calms as the
route crosses the area of high presswre, hence the
two recommended waypoints. In the absence of
reliable weather information it is therefore rec-
ommended to make the crossing in higher, rather
than lower, latitudes. Hurricanes rarely affect this
route outside the immediate vicinity of Bermuda,
but late summer passages are nevertheless dis-
couraged because of the violent storms that occa-
sionally occur in the Eastern Atlantic after the
middle of August.
!i
137
 ROUTES I N THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Boats bound for the Mediterranean have the choice
of sailing nonstop from Bermuda or the more pop-
ular alternative of breaking the voyage in the
Azores. The direct route should follow similar
instructions as AN123 so as to make most of the
Atlantic crossing with the help of the prevailing
westerly winds and east setting current. Taking
one's leave from WP AN1240 NE of Bermuda, a
course should be set for WP AN1241. Depending
on weather conditions, the· .crossing should be
made as close as feasible to latitude 40 'N, or even
higher if conditions warrant it. From WP AN1242
the course can be altered for WP AN1243, seven
AN125 Bermuda to Azores
.i
'!
·i
11·:'1
. j,! 138
miles west of Cape St Vincent. It is unlikely that
westerly winds will continue beyond WP
AN1242, as the prevailing winds of summer in the
vicinity of the Portuguese coast are northerly.
Instructions for the section between Cape St
Vincent and Gibraltar are described in detail in
route AN16 (page 44).
A stop in the Azores will provide an interest-
ing interlude, but will add considerably to the pas-
sage. Allowance should also be made for a slower
passage from the Azores to continental Europe. For
more details see routes AN125 and AN134 (below
and page 146).

The Azores are situated in such a convenient posi-
tion in mid-Atlantic that very few boats choose to
sail nonstop from Bermuda to Europe. Because
Bermuda lies to the south of the region of pre-
vailing westerlies, the recommended strategy is
to make as much northing as possible after leav-
ing Bermuda in the hope of picking up favourable
winds around latitude 40"N. The advantages of this
somewhat indirect route (AN125A), which goes
north of 40"N, are a greater certainty of W or SW
winds and a favourable current. The disadvantages
are a higher frequency of gales and a colder and
wetter passage than along a more southerly
route which does not go beyond latitude 38°N .
Opinions are divided as to which is the best course
to follow and in fact some people prefer to forgo
the chance of favourable winds and, in their
attempts to find the most pleasant alternative, fol-
low a rhumb line to the Azores (AN125B) . This
option may indeed ensure warmer weather, but
is often bedevilled by calms and headwinds. If the
northern route is sailed in late spring or even early
summer, it is advisable not to sail beyond 40"N
before WP AN1252 is reached, because of the dan-
ger of ice in the early part of summer.
May and June are the best months to make this
passage, a later start being preferable if the
northern route is chosen. If this decision is taken,
it is best to commit oneself fully to that route and
sail almost NNE on leaving Bermuda so as to enter
the region of-westerlies as soon as possible. After
the beginning of July, the risk of hurricanes
becomes increasingly higher in the area around
Bermuda and this passage should only be made
at such time if absolutely necessary. The risk of hur-
ricanes recedes as one moves east across the
Atlantic, although the effects of a hurricane can
be felt as far east as the Bay of Biscay.
Looking at the records of passages made over
a number of years, it soon becomes obvious that
the slowest passages were made by those who were
not prepared to go far enough north in search of
westerlies. Most of those who stayed south of lat-
AN120 ROUTES FROM BERM UDA
itude 38 °N encountered calms as they entered the
ridge of high pressure that extends between
Bermuda and the Azores much earlier than if they
had kept further north. Sooner or later the Azores
high will slow down any,boat making this passage,
. but by approaching the Azores from the NW rather
than the west, the ridge of high pressure will be
crossed at right angles and the time needed to cross
it will be shorter. At such times the use of the
engine is recommended and, particularly if tak-
ing a southern route, a good supply of fuel should
be taken on board before leaving Bermuda.
Taking WP AN1250 as a departure point from
Bermuda, boats sailing on route AN125A are rec-
ommended to set a course for WP AN1251 and
remain on that latitude to WP AN1252. In late
spring, the course should not go above latitude
39"N because of the risk of ice. If weather condi-
tions are favourable, the same latitude should be
maintained as far as WP AN1253, 60 miles NW
from Corvo and Flores, the westernmost islands
in the Azores. From this point, course can be altered
for one's port of destination.
Boats bound for Lajes, on the SE coast of Flores,
should make landfall at WP AN1254, off Ponta do
Ilheus, the SW extremity of Flores and then fol-
low the south coast of the island to Lajes. The recent
improvements to Lajes have made it an attractive i:
'I
first port of call into the Azores. If bound direct- :I
ly for Horta, which continues to be the favourite ,.I
Azorean destination, from WP AN1253 course
should be set for WP AN1255, five n1iles SW of !i
·i
Ponta do Castello Branco, and then sail along
Faial's south coast, which is the recommended way
to approach Horta. In strong SW winds, if Horta
is approached from the north, allowance should
be made for a strong contrary current in the chan-
nel between Faial and Pico. ·
Boats following a rhumb line from Bermuda
(AN125B), can set a direct course from WP
AN1250 for AN1254, if bound for Lajes das Flores,
or for WP AN1255, if bound for Horta. ·,
'
139
 r ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN126 Bermuda to Lesser Antilles
It is difficult to suggest an optimum time for this
passage as the summer carries the danger of trop-
ical storms and the winter that of northerly gales.
The best time to make this passage is at the change
of seasons, when the risk of hurricanes has abat-
ed and the frequency of winter storms is accept-
ably low. Most boats making this passage actually
do it at the best time which fortunately coincides
with most people's cruising plans. North
American boats passing through Bermuda in
November are all on their way to the Eastern
Caribbean for the start of the winter sailing season.
In November or early December, the winds on
leaving Bermuda can be from any direction, and
if they are light it is advisable to m otor so as to
make the necessary southing. Having passed
through the belt of variables, the NE trade winds
' ~
r should be found between latitudes 22'N and 25 'N.
As the northern approaches to the Lesser Antilles
are quite dangerous because of the many unlit
reefs, as much easting as possible should be made
in the early part of the passage so as to pass well
'~ to windward of all dangers and approach
Antigua from the NE. If this proves to be too
i difficult, it is better to choose an easier landfall
)I
, I
I
and continue to Antigua, or any other island, in
I : shorter stages.
I! Taking as a departure point WP AN1260 just out-
140
side Town Cut, a direct course leads to WP AN1261,
15 miles east of Barbuda. "I:he course is then altered
for WP AN1262, off Antigua' s SE coast. Entry for-
malities can be completed at English Harbour. U,
as suggested above, it is impossible to make suf-
ficient easting to approach the Antilles from wind-
ward, a course should be set for WP AN1263, 5
miles north of Sombrero light at the entrance into
Anegada Passage. From there course is altered for
WP AN1264 NW of St Martin and finally for WP
AN1265 off Antigua' s west coast. From there the
south coast is followed to English Harbour,
unless one prefers to complete formalities in the
capital St Johns, in which case the course for the
latter should be changed earlier.
Although a passage along this route during the
hurricane season cannot be recommended, fair
weather can be expected at the beginning of sum-
mer when the risk of hurricanes is n ot very high.
If southerly winds are encountered on leaving
Bermuda, which is quite likely, these should be
used to make some easting before the trades are
found near latitude 25 'N. Occasionally the sum-
mer trades do not have a southerly component and
then it may be possible to sail a direct course to
the Leeward Islands, Antigua being one of the eas-
iest to approach. Otherwise it may be necessary
to make landfall in the Virgins as mentioned above.

AN127 Bermuda to Virgin Islands
The same directions apply as for route AN126 until
the area of trade winds has been reached. Taking
as a departure point WP AN1270 just outside Town
Cut, a direct course lead s to WP AN1271, eight
miles NE of the light on Culebrita Island. Keeping
at a safe distance to avoid the dangers off the west-
ern point of St Thomas, that island's south coast
is followed to its main port of Charlotte Amalie.
Approaching the Virgin Islands from the north,
as suggested above, may present some difficulties
as most dangers are unlit. As an alternative, it
might be advisable to make a landfall on Sombrero
AN130 ROUTES FROM THE AZORES
AN131 Azores to Ireland
AN132 Azores to English Channel
AN133 Azores to Portugal
AN134 Azores to Gibraltar
AN135 Azores to Madeira
AN136 Azores to Canary Islands
AN137 Azores to Bermuda
AN138 A zores to USA
AN139 Azores to Canada
Approximately 1000 boats pass through the
Azores every year, the majority arriving there from
the Caribbean, either direct or via Bermuda. During
July a few boats arrive from North America and
Northern Europe, but the traffic is confined
mainly to the months of May and June, when most
AN130 R OUTES FROM THE AZORES
Island, which has a powerful light, and approach
the Virgins from windward rather than try and
make landfall directly on St Thomas. In such a case
a course should be set for WP AN1272, 15 miles
NW of Sombrero light at the entrance into
Anegada Passage. The latter course is in any case
recommended for destinations in the British
Virgins. Arriving from a NE direction, the near-
est port of entry is at Virgin Gorda. However,
extreme attention should be paid to the numerous
d angers surrounding the Virgin Islands.
143
143
145
146
147
147
148
149
149
boats are on their way to either Northern Europe
or the Mediterranean. These are the two main
routes taking boats away from the Azo.res. Boats
bound for the English Channel and beyond are usu-
ally faced with a tougher passage as the prevail-
ing winds in early summer, when most of these
141
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
passages are made, are from the NE. Those same
winds make the passage to the Mediterranean an
easier affair.
The weather in the Azores themselves is very
changeable and this is probably the main reason
why most people do not cruise the islands and
instead confine themselves to only one stop, usu-
ally the marina in Horta. The opening of a second
marina in Ponta Delgada and improvements to sev-
eral ports, notably Lajes on the island of Flores,
may well change matters.
The Azores boast an Atlantic climate, of which
the dominant feature is the area of high pressure
named after them. The position of the Azores high
varies with the season, being more to the north in
October and furthest south in February. It usual-
ly lies to the S or SW of the islands and in sum-
mer is often stationary, when prolonged periods
of calm can be expected. At other times the winds
are very variable in both strength and direction,
. [I
i 1'1
1'
AN130 Routes from the Azores
1
i' '..
!I' 142
although those from the western sector are slight-
ly more frequent. Close to land the wind is deflect-
ed, especially where t.h e coastline is steep and the
direction of the wind varies from island to island
and place to place. The weather in the Azores is
also affected by the lows which pass a'c ross ·t he
Atlantic from west to east. These usually pass to
the north, except in winter when they can pass
directly over the islands. When one of these fronts
passes, the winds change quickly, veering from SW
to NW and bringing rain. Rain occurs in all months,
although more falls in winter, especially associated
with the Atlantic lows. Although not in the hur-
ricane belt, extremely rarely a rogue hurricane has
taken an abnormal path to pass near the Azores,
but is generally weakened by the time it reaches
that far. There is a moderate frequency of gales over
the Azores, of which more occur in · winter
months.

AN131 Azores to Ireland
The same general directions apply as for route
AN132, but as destinations in Ireland are more
westerly than those in the English Channel, the
suggestion to sail due north on leaving the
Azores does not have to be followed slavishly as
it does not matter too much if some leeway is made
to the west. This can be corrected later with the
help of the westerlies that normally prevail in high-
er latitudes. Calms are sometimes experienced in
the vicinity of the Azores, particularly in July and
August, when the Azores high reaches its maxi-
mum pressure of the year. Calms and light va'ri-
able winds might also be encountered en route, so
one should leave with a good supply of fuel. With
the exception of the odd sunny day at the start,
the weather along this route is invariably grey, wet,
and cold.
Boats leaving from Horta should pass close to
the western extremity of Sao Jorge and then set
AN132 Azores to English Channel
AN130 ROUTES FROM THE AZORES
course for WP AN1311 one mile SE of Ilheu de
Baixo, a small islet off Graciosa's SE extremity. A
northerly course can then be set to pass east of
Graciosa. In strong SW winds, shelter can be sought
at the well protected port of Praia (39'03'N,
27'58'W), on Graciosa's east coast, although such
winds should really be used to advantage.
If leaving from Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel's
south coast should be followed as far as Ponta do
Amel, its easternmost headland, to WP ANI313
from where a course can be set for one's d estina-
tion. In strong NE winds, it is better to sail west
on leaving Ponta Delgada and take one's leave
from the Azores at WP AN1314 off Ponta da
Ferraria at the NW extremity of Sao Miguel.
Landfall is made at WP AN1315, in the approach-
es to Cork H<Jrbour, one of the best protected ports
on the south coast of Ireland. Entry formalities are
completed in Crosshaven.
143
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
The prevailing winds of summer are NE and there-
fore all passages from the Azores to Northern
Europe are usually close hauled. A direct course
for the English Channel is rarely possible, nor is
it advisable, as the westerly winds and east-
setting current that prevail in higher latitudes will
set the boat into the Bay of Biscay. The usual tac-
tic for this route is to sail due north until steady
westerly winds are encountered, but not to join the
great circle route to the English Channel before lat-
itude 45•N has been reached.
In the area immediately to the north of the
Azores calms are frequent, their extent depend-
ing on the position of the Azores high and the ridge
of high pressure that normally extends from it
towards Europe during summer. If such calm spots
are.encountered one should be prepared to motor
through them and make the desired northing. Even
if there is no wind, the weather will be fine and
sunny before it gives way to westerly winds, over-
cast skies, and generally wet and cold weather.
Summer weather for the English Channel is dif-
ficult to predict and the winds can come from any
direction and at any strength. Visibility can
become poor in the approaches to the Channel and
144
II
f
I
!
I
both this fact and the presence of strong tidal cur-
rents, as well as the large amount of shipping, must
all be borne in mind when making a landfall on
the English coast.
Boats leaving from Horta should pass close to
the western extremity of Sao Jorge and on to WP
AN1322 one mile SE of Ilheu de Baixo, an islet off
Graciosa's SE point. From there, a northerly
course is set to reach the area of prevailing west-
erly winds at which point the course can be altered
for WP AN1327.
If leaving from Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel' s
south coast should be followed as far as Pon ta do
Amel, its easternmost headland, to WP AN1323.
In strong NE winds, it is better to sail west on leav-
ing Ponta Delgada and take one' s leave from the
Azores at WP AN1324 off Ponta da Ferraria, Sao
Miguel's NW extremity. A course should then be
set for WPs AN1325 and AN1326 on the rhumb line
to the English Channel, where landfall will be made
at WP AN132710 miles south of Lizard Point. A
convenient place to clear into the United Kingdom
is the port of Falmouth (50"09'N, 5 "04'W).

AN133 Azores to Portugal
Favourable winds can be expected for most of the
way if this passage is made at the beginning of
summer. The winds in the vicinity of the islands
are variable, with a predominance of SW winds.
In May and early June a belt of calms is usually
crossed somewhere between the Azores and the
mainland before entering the area of prevailing
northerly winds. At times the calms can be quite
extensive and one should be prepared to motor.
Steadier winds can be expected towards the mid-
dle of summer. During July and August the strong
Portuguese trades, blowing at a steady 15-20 knots,
make this a fast and exhilarating trip. Such
northerly winds will be encountered from about
300 miles off the Portuguese coast. Occasionally,
if the Azores high is located north of the islands,
NE winds may be experienced all the way across
to Portugal. Because of the prevailing winds, north-
ern ports on the Portuguese coast will be to wind-
ward if a rhumb line is sailed from the Azores. This
should be taken into account, and also the south
setting Portugal Current, when final course
adjustments are made for the port of destination
AN130 RO UTES FROM THE AZORES
so as to approach the coast slightly to windward
of the intended port.
Boats that have cruised the Azores from NvV to
SE will find it more convenient to take their depar-
ture either at Ponta Delgada on Sao Miguel, or Vila
do Porto, on Santa Maria. In the former case, a
direct course for the Portuguese mainland can be
set from WP AN1331 south of Pon ta da Gar~a, on
Sao Miguel's south coast. If leaving from Santa
Maria, the departure point is WP AN1332 off that
island's Ponta do Castelo, on Santa Maria's SE ii
•I
extremity. Boats bound for Lisbon (AN133A)
should make their landfall at WP AN1333. From
there the South Channel leads into the Tagus River
ii
I.
on whose north shore lies the Portuguese capital.
The route to Vilamoura, on the Algarve coast
(AN133B), leads due east to WP AN1334, 6 miles
south of Cape St Vincent. Avoiding the heavy traf-
fic passing though the area, the course should be
altered for WP AN1335, one mile SW of
Vilamoura. The marina monitors VHF channels 16
and 20.
145
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN134 Azores to Gibraltar
Directions as far as Cape St Vincent are the same
as those for AN133 and similar weather conditions
can be expected until the route comes under the
influence of continental weather. East of Cape St
Vincent, the Portuguese trades are normally lost
and winds become more local in character. On sum-
mer days, a SW sea breeze occurs on approaching
the Bay of Cadiz. This wind comes up around noon
and lasts until midnight. If a strong Levanter is pre-
dicted in the Strait of Gibraltar, it is advisable to
wait for a change in one of the ports along the
Algarve coast (Vilamoura), Costa de la Luz
(Mazagon, near Huelva), or Bay of Cadiz (Puerto
Sherry). Another convenient port is Barbate,
which is not far west of Tarifa and is the closest
to the Strait. Alternatively, one can find some shel-
ter in the lee of Tarifa Island itself. The latest weath-
er information, as well as other shipping news, can
be obtained from Tarifa Radio, which operates a
24-hour service in both Spanish and English.
146
Two convenient ports from where to dep~rt the
Azores are Ponta Delgada, on Sao Miguel, or Vila
do Porto, on Santa Maria. In the former case, a
direct course for the Strait of Gibraltar can be set
from WP AN1341 south of Ponta da Gar~a, on Sao
Miguel's south coast. If leaving from Santa Maria,
take your departure from WP AN1342 off that
island's Ponta do Castelo. A direct course should
be set to WP AN1343 in the approaches to the Strait
of Gibraltar. From there, sail due east to WP
AN1344, two miles south of Tarifa Island by stay-
ing inshore of the westgoing shipping lane. A
course parallel to the Spanish coast will take one
into the Bay of Gibraltar. The reporting dock for
customs and two of the marinas are easiest found
by making for WP AN1345 off the North Mole.
Detailed directions for negotiating the Strait of
Gibraltar are given in route AN16 (page 44).

AN135 Azores to Madeira
The winds between these two Portuguese outposts
are usually favourable and the likelihood of NE
winds increases as one approaches Madeira. A
good d eparture port from the Azores is Vila do
Porto on the island of Santa Maria as it is the near-
est to Madeira. From WP AN1350 south of Vila do
AN136 Azores to Canary Islands
Both winds and current are usually favourable on
this passage. If the intention is to cruise the Canaries
it is best to sail first to one of the eastern islands of
the Canarian archipelago, such as Lanzarote. This
will ensure favourable winds during the subsequent
cruise and also allows the islands to be visited in
AN130 ROUTES FROM THE AZO RES
Porto, a direct course can be set for WP AN1351
off Ponta do Pargo at Madeira's western end. From
there the course runs parallel to Madeira's SW coast
to the capital and main port Funchal. Funchal mari-
na monitors VHF channel 16 during office hours.
logical order. The direct route from the Azores to
Lanzarote (AN136A) passes so close to Madeira as
to make a stop there almost unavoidable.
Directions for the route to Madeira are described
in AN135. The subsequent section from Madeira to
the Canaries is dealt with in route AN41 (page 65).
147
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
The direct route from Ponta Delgada or Santa Maria
to Lanzarote (AN136A) bypasses Madeira and goes
NE of the Salvagem Islands. Landfall is made at WP
AN1363, about 5 miles NW of Graciosa, before enter-
ing Estrecho de! Rio, the channel separating
Graciosa from Lanzarote. Although not a port of
entry, boats may stop for a short time at La Sociedad,
the main port and settlement on Graciosa, before
proceeding to Lanzarote and clearing in there.
AN137 Azores to Bermuda
For most sailors contemplating this passage, the
Azores are only a convenient stop on a longer voy-
age, and so is the stop in Bermuda. Horta used to
be the traditional starting point for the passage to
Bermuda, but the improvements to the port of
Lajes, on Flores, now makes it possible to start one's
voyage at the western extremity of the Azorean
archipelago. However, as the recommended tac- ·
tic is to reach the latitude of Bermuda as soon as
possible, the advantage of starting from Lajes is
minimal. From whichever port one leaves, it is
essential to obtain a long term weather forecast.
U westerly winds are forecast it is best to wait for
a change rather than try to beat one's way west-
ward. The recommended time, in June or July, is
not necessarily the one with the most favourable
winds, but with the best chance of good weather.
In summer the predominant winds on the direct
route, and especially north of latitude 35'N, are
SW and there is also a contrary current, so it is rec-
148
If the Canaries are only used as an intermedi-
ate stop to prepare for a transatlantic passage, it
may be more convenient to only call at one of the
western islands, such as La Palma (AN136B).
Course should be set for WP AN1364 NE of the
island' s capital, Santa Cruz de la Palma. This is an
excellent place for reprovisioning the boat for the
onward passage.
-·'
'I
r
r
(
lI
I
ommended to sail as much as possible on
Bermuda's own latitude. This may even entail
going further south, to be assured of favourable
winds. li westerly winds are encountered in the
early part of the voyage, one should stay on the
starboard tack even if it means going as far south
as latitude30'N. In summer, the further south one
sails, the higher the proportion of easterly winds.
The one disadvantage of a late summer passage
is the increased risk of hurricanes in or around
Bermuda.
If leaving from Horta, from WP AN1371 set a
first course to WP AN1373. Boats leaving from
Lajes at WP AN1372 should follow the same direc-
tions and also set course for the same intermedi-
ate waypoint. From that point, the route should
follow closely the latitude of Bermuda, as
described above. Landfall is made at WP AN1374,
two miles from Town Cut at the entrance into St
George' s Harbour.

AN138 Azores to USA
A difficult decision to be taken on leaving the
Azores is whether or not to call at Bermuda. If a
stop in Bermuda is envisaged, the same directions
apply as for route AN137. Otherwise, it is proba-
bly better to wait and see what the weather does,
then sail a course which does not take one too far
away from the recommended route to Bermuda,
so as to be able to stop there if necessary. The
chances of finding favourable winds above lati-
tude 35 °N are quite low, which only reinforces the
argument for making the passage close to, or even
below, the latitude of Bermuda. Therefore, a stop
there becomes almost unavoidable, especially for
boats bound for ports south of New York. Those
AN139 Azores to Canada
AN130 RO UTES FROM THE AZORES
sailing to ports lying further NE may find it pos-
sible to alter course from about longitude 55 "W for
their port of destination. Because of the multitude
of destinations and resulting routes, only landfall
waypoints for the main destinations have been
given, AN1382 SE of Brenton Reef in the
approaches to Newport, for boats heading for that
port, or AN1383 at the entrance into the south chan-
nel leading into Chesapeake Bay.
If this passage is made after the middle of June,
the risk of an early tropical storm should be borne
in mind as the tracks of previous hurricanes pass
through the area between Bermuda and continental
USA.
149
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
Directions are similar to those for route AN138 and
similar tactics are suggested if westerly winds are
encountered after leaving the Azores. Going on to
a port tack too early in the voyage carries the risk
of making too much northing and entering an area
of steady westerlies and also a contrary current.
Particularly in the case of boats with modest
windward performance, a southerly route, as
described above, has certain attractions. Further
west, one may find that SW winds, which pre-
dominate in summer west of meridian 50'W, will
allow them to go on to the port tack around that
point. Boats setting off on a southern route
AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES
FROM NORTH AMERICA
AN141 North America to Northern Europe
AN142 North America to Mediterranean
AN143 North America to Bermuda
AN144 North America to Azores
AN145 North America to the Eastern Caribbean
AN146 North America to Bahamas
AN147 North America to Panama
The number of boats sailing nonstop to Europe
along the higher latitudes has decreased consid-
erably in recent years and most North American
boats reach Europe via Bermuda and the Azores.
For anyone planning a long offshore voyage from
one of the ports north of Chesapeake Bay,
whether to the Caribbean or Europe, the first land-
fall is usually Bermuda. Those heading for the
Virgins or Lesser Antilles have a choice of an off-
shore passage, either via Bermuda or direct. If the
port of departure is north of Cape Hatteras, a stop
in Bermuda would not add too many miles, but
from ports situa ted further south a direct course
makes more sense. Beaufort in North Carolina is
a favourite point of departure for the annual south-
bound exodus and the most common landfall is
St Thomas in the US Virgins. Those who leave from
ports south of the Carolinas are often tempted to
beat their way through the Bahamas, which may
not be a solution to everyone's taste as strong east-
erly winds are likely to be encow1tered most of the
way. All the above passages to the Caribbean
should be made after the beginning of November
when the hurricane season has come to an end. An
150
should take their departure from Horta at WP
AN1391. The landfall point for Halifax, in Nova
Scotia, is WP AN1392. Boats bound for St John's,
in Newfoundland, should make their landfall at
WP AN1393 SE of Cape Race, before altering course
for WP AN1394 off Cape Spear in the approach-
es to St John's.
The recommended time for this passage coin-
cides w ith the start of the hurricane season in the
Western Atlantic, so the weather should be
observed carefully, especially as one approaches
Bermuda, or if a stop there is being considered .
152
154
154
155
157
159
160
alternative way of reaching the Caribbean by a
longer but more attractive route is described at the
beginning of this chapter, when routes in the North
Atlantic are discussed (see page 37): Routes from
Florida are described in AN110(page125).
Eastbound passages from North America are
undertaken mostly in late spring or early summer,
from May until July, when best conditions can be
expected. Regardless of the destination, the Gulf
Stream will have to be crossed at some point, and
because of the difficulties associated with this it
is advisable to obtain the latest information con-
cerning the strength and direction of the Gulf
Stream. The best sources are the Gulf Stream flow
charts issued regularly by NOAA. Anyone leav-
ing on a direct passage to the Caribbean must take
into account the strength of the Gulf Stream as well
as the possibility of strong northerly winds blow-
ing against the current, a combination which can
turn the passage into an extremely uncomfortable
experience. If adverse conditions persist it is prob-
ably better to make for the nearest continental port
and continue the voyage south inside the
Intracoastal Waterway, a solution taken every year
r AN140
4o•w
40•w
AN140 Atlantic routes from North America
by those who have either left the passage to the
Caribbean too late or were not fortunate enough
to meet the right conditions for this offshore pas-
sage. The problem is often compounded by the fact
that, for many sailors, the passage to the
Caribbean may be their first serious offshore pas-
sage. Naturally they regard this test with certain
apprehension and, equally naturally, tend to
wait for a perfect weather window to set off.
Unfortunately the optimum time for southbound
passages is relatively short and that hoped for per-
fect window may not occur, so the opportunity is
missed and other alternatives need to be consid-
ered to reach their distant goal. Some of these alter-
natives are described in the section AN116
describing routes starting from Florida (page 130).
The area from Cape Hatteras to Cape Cod is in
the region of variable winds and is also strongly
affected by weather on the continental landmass,
with winter northers and gales generated by fronts
moving from west to east. Hurricanes can reach
ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA
20•w
=
AZORES
MADEIRA•
CAPE VERDE.-
ISLANDS
up to 40 °N, which is the region of New York, and
their tails may affect areas even further north, par-
ticularly in late summer and autumn. Between
Cape Hatteras and Cape Cod, summer weather is
determined very much by the North Atlantic high
and although winds are variable, there is a high
proportion of SW winds. East of Cape Cod coastal
weather is influenced by the landmass more than
by the ocean, the weather systems moving gen-
erally in a west to east direction. Rain}"' thunder-
storms occur in June, July, and August and often
there is coastal fog, especially in the mornings. A
lot of local variations occur in this area with sea
breezes on some coasts and frequent wind shifts.
The prevailing winds · in the Cape Cod to
Newfoundland area are SW or S, which veer to NW
as depressions pass over. In summer there are few
gales and the wind is lighter inshore than at sea.
The area from Maine to Newfoundland and over
the Grand Banks is affected by fog, particularly in
the spring and summer. This is caused by a S or
151
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
SW wind bringing warm moist air over the sea,
which is kept cool by the Labrador Current. A care-
ful lookout for the many fishing boats and lobster
pots in this area must be kept when visibility is poor.
A northerly wind tends to clear the fog. Also in
AN141 North America to Northern Europe
A cold, wet, and foggy route at the best of times,
a t least it has the advantage of both favourable
winds and current. The great circle route is the
obvious choice for a fast passage to Northern
Europe, but for destinations south of the Bay of
Biscay some of the alternatives ought to be con-
sidered. These are described in routes AN123,
AN124 (pages 137), as well as AN143 and AN144.
Having chosen the great circle route, some of the
problems which affect this northernmost route
must be considered first. There are two main ca us-
'
152
spring and summer up to July, when the polar ice
is breaking up, icebergs are sometimes carried south
into the area off Newfoundland. The US coast and
Nova Scotia are normally out of the iceberg zone.
es of concern for those who undertake this pas-
sage: fog and ice. Both of them are linked to the
Labrador Current, a cold current that flows along
the coasts of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. Fog
is caused by warm air blowing over the cold waters
brought down from the Arctic by the Labrador
Current which also carries icebergs south during
the summer. As the North Atlantic warms up with
the advance of summer, fog becomes less frequent
and the icebergs also start melting, although they
sometimes drift as far south as latitude 40"N.

AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA
Therefore the latter part of summer appears to be
safer and the recommended time for this passage
is August. This might be too late for those who
intend to do some cruising in Northern Europe
during the same summer and the alternative is
either to leave earlier and brave the dangers or take
a more southerly route (AN141C).
The great circle route from US ports passes south
of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland from where it
splits into a northern branch, going round the north
of Scotland towards Scandinavia (AN141B), and
a southern branch to the English Channel
(AN141A). The most difficult parts of the voyage
are the first few hundred miles until the concen-
tration of fishing boats on the Grand Banks has
been left behind and also the area with the high-
est risk of fog and icebergs, close to
Newfoundland. For all the above reasons, but also
because better sailing conditions will be found fur-
ther south, the great circle course should not be
joined before meridian SS ·wis passed. Naturally,
if conditions warrant it, the great circle course to
the port of destination can be joined earlier, but
in the absence of reliable weather information, it
is safer to follow the above advice. In this case,
boats leaving from Newport, and using as a depar-
ture point WP AN1411 off Brenton Reef, should
sail first to WP AN1412 off Nantucket Shoal, to stay
well clear of the various shoals. This suggestion
also applies to boats leaving from New York. In
late spring, or even early summer, the course may
have to dip south to WP AN1413 and stay on this
latitude until longitude SSW is reached, as sug-
gested earlier.
The initial course for boats leaving from
Halifax, Nova Scotia, bound for the English
Channel leads to WP AN1415 south of Sable Island.
Only if there are no reports of ice on that latitude
can the course be altered for the next WP AN1416.
Otherwise it may be advisable to sail to WP
AN1413, as suggested above. Boats leaving from
St John's, Newfoundland, and also bound for the
English Channel, are so far within the ice zone that
passages early in the season should not be
attempted unless one is confident that there is no
such danger. Eastbound passages from St John's
can join a great circle course directly.
The winds in late spring and early summer will
f
be westerly around lS-20 knots, occasionally high-
er. The frequency of gales in August is low for these
latitudes and calms are rare. As the route passes
well to the north of the Azores high, the weather
should be outside of its direct influence, but there
might be an effect if the high does move north. If
the Azores high is located In its usual position, the
weather is more likely to be affected by one of the
lows moving eastwards across the Atlantic from
North America to Europe. In higher latitudes, such
lows can produce gale force NE or E winds. The
favourable effect of the Gulf Stream becomes less
noticeable eastwards of about longitude 40 °W,
where it changes its name to the North Atlantic
Current.
Route AN141B, which is the great circle route
passing north of Scotland, uses the same waypoints
to WP AN141S, south of Sable Island . From there,
if there are no reports of ice en route, a course can
be set for WP AN1419 off Scotland's·Cape Wrath.
Boats leaving from Halifax should also use WP
AN141S before joining the great circle route to WP
AN1419, whereas boats leaving from St John' s can
join that route directly.
Boats from the US east coast sailing the south-
ern route (AN141C), should set an initial course
for WP AN1413. The main objective of this is to
.,·i
avoid the southern limit of ice and, in early sum- ·I
mer, it is recommended that the latitude of this
waypoint is not passed. Occasionally, provided
there is no danger of ice, it may be necessary to
go to 40 "N or even further north to reach an area
of prevailing westerlies. The frequency of gales is
lower to the south of the recommended route, but
one should not be tempted to turn east too soon
because of the danger of losing the westerlies as
one enters the Azores high which extends furthest
north in summer. The Gulf Stream runs along most
of this route at a favourable rate of at least 1/ 2 knot.
In the absence of reliable weather information it
is therefore recommended to make the cr-0ssing in
higher, rather than lower, latitudes. Hurricanes J'
rarely affect this route east of Bermuda, but late
i-
summer passages are nevertheless discouraged i
because of the violent storms that occasionally
occur in the eastern Atlantic after the middle of
August.
1S3
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AN142 North America to Mediterranean
Most of the suggestions made in route AN141 are
also valid for passages to the Mediterranean.
However, as better conditions can be expected
around latitude 40'N, the route should stay as close
as possible to this latitude. From the point of depar-
ture, such as AN1421 off Brenton Reef, a course
should be set to pass through waypoints AN1422
and AN1423. In late spring or early summer the
initial course should not go above 39 °N.
Depending on weather conditions, the crossing
AN143 North America to Bermuda
154
should be made on or close to this latitude to WP
AN1424. Having reached that point, the course can
be altered for WP AN1425, 7 miles WSW of Cape
St Vincent. For the rest of the passage, detailed
instructions are given in routes ANJ 24 (page 137)
and AN16 (page 44). The latter should be consulted
for details on tactics for negotiating the Strait of
Gibraltar. Boats bound for the Mediterranean
should also consult route Mll (page 449) .
 AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA
Early summer passages from any port on the US
east coast should not be too difficult as the pre-
vailing SW winds are favourable, even if it may
entail a close hauled passage for boats sailing out
of ports north of New York. Provided a favourable
forecast has been obtained before leaving, the cross-
ing of the Gulf Stream should present no problems.
In the early summer the weather is usually pleas-
ant and even if the winds are light, at least the
weather is warm. The occasional depression
forming over the Bahamas and then following a
NE track can produce squalls and rough seas, but,
at the recommended time, they are the exception
rather than the rule. Later in the summer partic-
ular attention must be paid to hurricanes devel-
oping in the Caribbean as their tracks usually pass
between Bermuda and the mainland. Because of
this risk passages to Bermuda after the end of July
are discouraged. September and October are the
months with the highest incidence of hurricanes.
Although the danger of hurricanes diminishes after
the end of October, from early November onwards
there is an increasing risk of encountering an early
AN144 North America to Azores
winter norther which can produce extremely rough
conditions when blowing against the Gulf
Stream. Therefore passages in November should
be carefully timed and the weather developing ov.er
continental USA watched closely. .
Regardless of the port of departure, the Gulf
Stream should be crossed at right angles and once
clear of its influence, a course can be set for WP
AN1434, five miles SW of Gibbs Hill at Bermuda's
SW point. As it is easier to approach the island from
the SW, the course runs parallel to the island as far
as WP ANl 436 to reach Town Cut leading into St
George's Harbour. Boats approaching Bermuda
from the NW may find it more convenient to make
landfall at WP AN1435. Approaching the island
from the north is more difficult as several dangers
have to be left to starboard to reach that same WP 'I
ANl 436, close to the Town Cut. The narrow chan-
nel, although well buoyed and lit, should not be
used at night by anyone not familiar with the area.
Bermuda Harbour Radio should be contacted on
VHF channel 16 for pilotage information.
155
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
The advantage of this direct route to the Azores
over route AN125, which originates in Bermuda,
is that the latitudes of prevailing westerly winds
can be reached sooner. Directions for the initial
course are similar to those given for routes
AN141 and AN142. Having reached WP AN1444,
the same directions apply for the continuation of
the passage as for route AN125 from Bermuda
,:j (page 138). Boats leaving from ports to the south
Ii· of Cape Hatteras (route AN144A) normally ride
the Gulf Stream to latitude 40 'N before turning east
once steady westerly winds have been found.
Although latitude 38'N has been mentioned as the
recommended turning point, during the summer,
when the Azores high extends farther north, con-
sistent westerly winds will only be found in high-
er latitudes so one has to be prepared to go as far
north as 40'N. For boats leaving from ports east
of New York (AN144B), the area of prevailing west-
erlies can be reached sooner, although one should
stay clear of the Nantucket Shoals, as .suggested
in route AN141, by using WP AN1443 as an inter-
mediate point of reference. If weather conditions
are favourable, the same latitude should be main-
tained as far as WP AN1441, 60 miles NW from
Corvo and Flores, the westernmost islands in the
156
Azores. From this point, course can be altered for
one's port of destination.
Boats bound for Lajes, on the SE coast of Flores,
should make landfall at WP AN1448, off Ponta do
!Theus, the SW extremity of Flores and then fol-
low the south coast of the island to Lajes. The recent
improvements to Lajes have made it an attractive
first port of call into the Azores. If bound direct-
ly for Horta, which continues to be the favourite
Azorean destination, from WP AN1441 course
should be set for WP AN1449, five miles SW of
Ponta do Castello Branco, and then sail along
Faial's south coast, which is the recommended way
to approach Horta. In strong SW winds, if Horta
is approached from the north, allowance should
be made for a strong contrary current in the chan-
nel between Faial and Pico.
From May to July, mostly SW winds can be
expected for the first part of the passage. The dan-
ger of early hurricanes should be borne in mind
especially if leaving from southern ports, but up
to the middle of July the risk is reasonably low. A
rhumb line course along a southerly route is only
recommended if one is prepared to motor
through the area of calms and variable winds that
may be encountered in those latitudes. Direction's
 AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA
for such a direct route are similar to those for the
route from the Lesser Antilles to the Azores (route
AN79 page 95). For boats leaving from Canadian
por ts, whether in Nova Scotia (AN144C) or
Newfoundland (AN144D), a late spring or early
summer start is not very attractive and for this rea-
son most boats set off on a passage to the Azores
and Europe in July or even August. The one risk
to watch out for is a hurricane, because even if one
can avoid the direct path of such a storm, one
would still be affected by the strong winds and
AN145 North America to the Eastern Caribbean
swell. Therefore one should avoid leaving if there
is any likelihood of a hurricane developing dur-
ing the first week or ten days. This should be pos-
sible by consulting the weather charts for the entire
North Atlantic, as the depressions which devel-
op into tropical storms usually take a long time
to reach maturity and are usually carefully
tracked. In the eventuality of being caught out by
a hurricane on the way to the Azores, it is safer
to stay offshore and. run with the wind and swell.
t'
: I
.,
;,
I
157
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
There are several alternatives to reach either the
Virgin Islands or Lesser Antilles from ports on the
east coast of the USA and Canada, and the ultimate
choice depends mainly on the type of boat and the
experience of the crew. The most direct route leads
well offshore and should be attempted only with
a thoroughly tested boat and crew. If the voyage
starts from any port east of New York, a stop in
Bermuda can be contemplated as it does not great-
ly lengthen the distance. However, as the frequency
of gales in November around Bermuda is rather
high, such a d etour may not be necessarily the wis-
est choice. One solution is to make the pass11ge to
Bermuda earlier in the summer, spending some time
there and carrying on to the Virgins or Lesser
Antilles later in the year, although it must be
stressed that the threat of hurricanes in Bermuda
is very real in summer. Directions for southbound
passages from Bermuda are described in routes
AN126 and Al'\1127 (page 140-1).
The timing for a direct passage to the Virgins
(AN145A) is critical as a summer voyage carries
the risk of hurricanes and a winter voyage that of
northerly storms. Therefore the best time appears
to be November, when the danger of hurricanes is
low and winter gales are still rare. The winds down
to about latitude 30'N are normally NW and espe-
cially when these are strong the Gulf Stream should
be crossed as quickly as possible. If the winds are
from SW, the starboard tack should be preferred
as any ground lost to the east will be easily recu-
perated when the NE trade winds are found some-
where between latitude 22 'N and 25'N. If this
passage is made at the end of spring, easting should
be made in the early part of the voyage to com-
pensate for the SE slant of the trades later on.
Making easting is less important in November when
the predominant d irection of the trade winds is NE.
Having passed through the area of variable
winds, boats bound for the US Virgins should alter
course for WP AN1453, eight miles NE of the light
on Culebrita Island. Keeping at a safe distance to
avoid the dangers off the western point of St
Thomas, that island's south coast is followed to its
main port of Charlotte Amalie. However, making
landfall in the Virgin Islands from the northerly
direction may be difficult as most dangers are unlit.
The alternative (AN145B) is to make landfall on
Sombrero Island, which has a powerful light, and
approach the Virgins from NE rather than try and
make landfall directly on St Thomas, as suggest-
ed above. In such a case a course should be set for
158
l
WP AN1454, 15 miles NW of Sombrero light at the
entrance into Anegada Passage. Arriving from this
direction, the nearest port of entry in the British
Virgins is at Virgin Gorda. Utmost caution should
be exercised in this area because of the numerous
dangers surrounding the Virgin Islands.
For boats bound for Antigua on a direct offshore
route (AN145C), a direct course s,hould be set for
WP AN1455, 15 miles east of B~rbuda, so as to
approach Antigua well from windward and clear
of any dangers. The course is then altered for WP
AN1456 off Antigua's SE coast. Entry formalities
can be completed at English Harbour. If, as sug-
gested above, it is impossible to make sufficient
easting to approach Antigua from windward, a
course should be set for WP AN1457, 5 miles N of
Sombrero Island (AN145D). From there course is
altered for WP ANl 458 SW of St Martin and final-
ly for WP AN1459 off Antigua's SW coast. From
there the south coast is followed to English
Harbour, unless one prefers to complete formali-
ties in the capital St John, in which case course for
the latter should be changed earlier. .
Rather than take one of the offshore routes
described above, some people prefer to make the
southbound voyage through the Intracoastal
Waterway. This can be done during the summer so
that one is ready to go offshore as soon as the hur-
ricane season has come to an end. Having reached
a port south of Cape Hatteras, such as Beaufort, it
is strongly recommended to go offshore immedi-
ately. Leaving with a favourable forecast from a port
such as Beaufort (AN145B) an easterly course
should be steered to cross the Gulf Stream as quick-
ly as possible after which a course can be set for
the Virgins. To avoid beating against the trade
winds it is best to set a course that intersects the
meridian of the port of destination in about lati-
tude 25 'N. This means that the islands are
approached from a better angle in relation to the
prevailing wind.
Whereas a direct offshore route to the Eastern
Caribbean from more northern ports, such as
Beaufort, is feasible, trying to do the same from
ports in Florida will entail a lot of windward work
as the winds become more easterly as latitudes
become lower. This is the reason why those
intending to reach the Eastern Caribbean by an off-
shore route are urged not to leave on such a pas-
sage from ports south of North Carolina.
Alternative routes from Florida to the Eastern
Caribbean are described in AN116 (page 130).
 AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA
AN146 North America to Bahamas
A direct route to the Bahamas from ports north of
Cape Hatteras should only be considered if the des-
tination is in the Southern Bahamas because the
route has to go a fair distance to the east to avoid
the strength of the Gulf Stream. Mainly for this rea-
son, many boats reach the Bahamas by covering
at least part of the distance in the Intracoastal
Waterway. The offshore section of the voyage is
only attempted from one of the ports south of Cape
Hatteras, such as Beaufort, Morehead City, or
Charleston. There is a fairly narrow window for
such a passage and the recommended time is
November. An earlier start carries the risk of hur-
ricanes, whereas a later start runs the risk of the
winter northers which can produce dangerous con-
ditions in the Gulf Stream. The frequency of hur-
ricanes after the beginning of November is
reasonably low and a good forecast obtained before
departure should warn both of existing tropical
depressions and of impending northers.
The course on leaving the coast should lead in
a ESE direction so as to cross the Gulf Stream at
right angles. One should proceed for at least 100
miles in this direction before changing course for
the Bahamas. In light winds or calms, it is advis-
able to use the engine to move away quickly from
the coast and the Gulf Stream. Perhaps the easi-
est landfall in the Bahamas is the island of San
Salvador, which stands clear of all dangers and has
a powerful light on its NE extremity, although a
more convenient landfall is NW of the island, at
WP AN1464. Entry formalities can be completed
at Cockburn Town, the main settlement on the west
side of the island, although the officials are often
to be found at the airport. There is an anchorage
off the settlement or a small marina one mile fur-
ther north. Riding Rock Marina has a difficult
entrance with a maximum depth of 7 ft at high tide.
The GPS latitude of the entrance channel into the
small marina has been reported as 24 "03.4'N. The
marina can be contacted on VHF channel 6.
Although Bermuda is nowhere near the direct
route, some people prefer to make the detour to
that island and reach the Bahamas in this way.
Southbound routes from Bermuda are described
in AN127.
·i
"
159
 ROU TES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC
AN147 North America to Panama
As the direct route from ports in North America
to Panama has to pass through the Bahamas, few
boats do it without stopping there. The best times
are at the change of seasons and the recommend-
ed routes are described inAN146. The difficult part
of a nonstop passage is the crossing of the
Bahamas, where shallow banks, extensive reefs, and
unpredictable currents call for accurate navigation.
!
As suggested in AN146, it is best to sail directly
to the Southern Bahamas (AN147A) and make land-
fall on San Salvador at WP AN1474. The route from
~I
there crosses the Southern Bahamas through the
Crooked Passage, passing west of Acklins Island
and through the Mira-Por-Vos Passage and WP
AN1475. The route reaches the Windward
Passage at WP AN1476, off Cuba 's Cape Maisi.
r. An alternative landfall in the Bahamas is at
:II
i~ 160
Mayaguana, but as its main settlement Abrams
Town is not a port of entry, San Salvador is
preferable.
The trade winds are usually lost in the lee
of Hispaniola and winds are often light in the
Windward Passage but they are picked up again
as one moves south. The remaining waypoints
mark the route across the Caribbean Sea, which
stays east of Jamaica and the reefs south of that
island. Landfall in Panama is made at WP
AN1478, at the entrance into the Panama Canal.
Boats approaching the breakwaters at the
entrance into Cristobal should call Traffic Control
on VHF channel 12. Traffic lights regulate the pas-
sage between the breakwaters, but small boats may
pass if they keep close to the side, both when pass-
ing through the breakwaters and in the shipping
 AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA
channels. Further details about the Panama Canal
are given on page 489.
· The best months for the passage south are
May-June and November, when favourable
winds can be expected for most of the way and both
the danger of hurricanes and winter northers is
acceptably low. The second half of May and the
first half of November are considered the best times
for a nonstop passage to Panama. lf leaving from
one of the ports in North Carolina (A TJ47C), a
'·
favourable forecast is essential for the first leg
across the Gulf Stream, after which winds should
be E or SE for most of the way to the Bahamas. For
the passage through the Caribbean, favourable
winds will also be found in winter, from
December to April, although the strong trade
winds can make sailing in the Western Caribbean
uncomfortable. The route south of the Bahamas is
described in detail in AN114 (page 129).
i
I
'j
I'
'I
161
 6
TRANS EQUATORIAL
ROUTES IN THE
ATLANTIC
he best way to sail from one hemisphere to the
T other has preoccupied mariners ever since early
explorers discovered the zone of calms that sepa-
rates the trade wind systems of the two oceans.
'The well known equatorial embarrassments' is
how Alexander George Findlay refers to the dol-
drums in his Memoir of the Northern Atlantic Ocean
published last century, a comprehensive book in
which he tries to bring together all that was known
I at the time abou t the wind systems of the North
'I Atlantic. The best strategy for tackling the dol-
drums is discussed in great detail, because fast pas-
1 sages across the equator were still of utmost
~j importance to the masters of sailing ships linking
1' Europe and North America with the rest of the
world before the opening of the two great canals
and the proliferation of powered vessels.
The first meteorologist who tried to put wind
and weather observations on a proper scientific
basis was an officer in the US Navy, Captain
Matthew Fontaine Maury, w ho started collecting
weather information in a methodical way in the
early part of the nineteenth century and originat-
ed the pilot charts. Although primarily concerned
with the weather of the North Atlantic and the best
ways to speed up passages between the United
States and Northern Europe, Captain Maury's
research also dealt with passages across the equa-
tor. The main dilemma faced by ships plying
between the two hemispheres was where to cross
the doldrum belt. It had been known for a long time
that the Atlantic doldrums have a triangular shape
with their base lying along the African coast,
between the Cape Verdes and the equator, and
162
becoming narrower to the west. Therefore by cross-
ing the doldrums well to the west they may be tra-
versed in a shorter distance.
As a result of Captain Maury's work, based on
thousands of observations obtained from the
mariners whom he had persuaded to fill in special
logbooks provided by him, it was suggested that
the equator should be crossed between the merid-
ians of 30 "W and 31 "W. As these recommendations
were primarily directed at vessels sailing from
North America to either Cape Horn or the Cape of
Good Hope, the directions were later modified for
transequa torial voyages originating in Europe so
as to take full advantage of the seasonal changes
of weather which affect the doldrums. Specific
directions for each month are necessary not only
because of the seasonal movement of the ITCZ but
also because the direction of the SE trade winds
tends to be more southerly when the sun is north
of the equator than when it is south.
Another debate between masters of south-
bound sailing vessels was the best way to sail
around the Cape Verde Islands, whether to west-
ward or between the archipelago and the African
coast. Taking up the challenge of Captain Maury's
arguments in favour of a westerly crossing of the
equator at all times of the year, the Royal
Netherlands Meteorological Institute p ublished a
comparative study of the routes followed by a
number of Dutch sailing ships, botl1 inside and out-
side of the Cape Verde Islands. The passage times
of the 455 Dutch vessels were then compared with
the times taken by 144 American vessels, many of
them clippers, which had also chosen either the

inside or outside route on their voyages across the
equator. The results of the combined experience of
599 vessels makes fascinating reading, even if the
conclusions are not as clear cut as expected. Many
more ships (340 Dutch, 111 American) decided to
stay west of the islands than east (114 Dutch, 34
American), but the mean times showed only one
day in favour of those that went outside. It does
appear that the western track is to be preferred and
the only time when the inside passage might be
advantageous is between December and February,
but the advantage is so small that the final decision
as to which route to pursue should be determined
by other considerations, which will be discussed in
connection with the relevant routes.
The controversies caused by the Atlantic do!-
AT10 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
ATll Europe to South Africa
AT12 Canary Islands to South Africa
AT13 North America to South Africa
AT14 Canary Islands to Brazil
AT15 Cape Verde Islands to Brazil
AT16 West Africa to Brazil
AT17 Lesser Antilles to Brazil
The best longitude to cross the equator depends
very much on the p osition of the Intertropical
Convergence Zone at the time of the passage.
Fortunately satellite pictures show its exact posi-
tion, which can help those with access to this data
to decid e on the best strategy. The ITCZ changes
not only its location but also its shape, being nar-
rower in one area and wider in another. Being able
to cross it at, or near, its narrowest part can be a
great advantage and the results of several recent
races were decided on the equator.
Whereas racing boats usually sail nonstop over
long distances, their requirements are very differ-
ent from those of cruising sailors whose passages
are influenced by many considerations, of which
speed is not necessarily the most important.
Immediate cruising plans, proximity of convenient
provisioning ports, and a host of other factors may
have to be weighed before a final decision is made
as to the best course of action.
As the great circle route from Europe to the South
Atlantic passes close to the Cape Verde Islands,
between January and April one should try and pass
AT10 SOUTHBOUND R OUTES
drums continue to this day and the dilemma has
still to be resolved . The optimum strategy for
southbound transequatorial routes is a major con-
sideration for the skippers and navigators of the
various round the world r aces, who rack their
brains over which route will give them the best run
to either the Cape of Good Hope or the Horn just
as the masters of yesterday's clippers did before
them. However, with ever improving satellite
observations, the doldrums might finally give up
their secrets and land based weather routeing ser-
vices can now advise even small sailing boats on
the best way to go. Much of the fun and excitement
will be taken out of route planning, bu t at least
those 'equatorial embarrassments' will cease to be
a nuisance.
165
166
167
168
169
169
170
close to the west of the islands by keeping along
meridian 26'W. The alternative route insid e the
Cape Verde Islands will be discussed later. At this
time of year southerly winds will be met around
latitude 4 'N and the equator should be crossed
between longitudes 26 'Wand 28 'W. Between May
and July the same directions apply, but an attempt
should be made to make some easting below the
Cape Verde Islands so as to cross the equator at
25'W or 26'W.
The transequatorial routes are influenced from
the middle of July onwards by the SW monsoon, J,
w hich blows on the African side of the Atlantic
between the equator and the Cape Verde Islands.
During these months easting can be made with the
d
help of the SW winds south of latitude 10 'N and the
equator should be crossed along meridian 23 'W.
After August the crossing points move gradually
west, being 25 'Win September and 27"W or 28 'W
in October. During these months southerly winds
may be met between 7'N and 8'N. In November
and December it is advisable to make some easting
sou th of the Cape Verde Islands, so as to cross
163
 TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

4o•w 2o•w

..
AZORES

" BERMUDA

'I
ii
ii
jl • STHELENA
20'$
'I

1jl
1il
'ji 40•s
o TRISTAN DA CUNHA

40'5
I 4-0'W 20°W 20'E

I
11·.11
ATlO Southbo1111d routes

meridian 25-W in about 6°N, from where the tack

giving most southing should be taken to enable the
equator to be crossed not further west than 29-W.
These instructions are only guidelines, because
ti conditions vary from year to year and a different
strategy might have to be applied if the SE trades
ll! are met further north. For a southbound voyage
for it is also important to have sufficient easting in
hand to be able to keep the SE trades on the port
tack past the bulge of South America.
Because on some routes intermediate way-
points cannot be given, only departure and desti-
nation waypoints are indicated. Therefore the
distances shown are great circle distances unless

i
1
J1
IJ1
I
I
across the equator the most convenient place to
cross the doldrums is not the only consideration,
otherwise indicated.

.ill
~t/I
,,11

AT11 Europe to South Africa
The optimum time to round the Cape of Good
Hope limits the departure from Europe to one or
two months. Most favourable conditions around
the tip of Africa can be expected between December
and February and therefore boats bound for Cape
Town should plan to arrive off the Cape of Good
Hope during that period. Therefore, the best time
indicated above refers to passing the actual Cape
and not to the entire passage. Because a winter
departure from Northern Europe could hardly be
recommended, it is presumed that boats setting off
on this passage would either arrange to leave ear-
lier and stop somewhere en route, or leave from a
place in Southern Europe, such as Gibraltar or
Vilamoura, from where a winter departure should
pose less of a problem.
Directions for boats leaving the English Channel
are similar to those described in AN13 (page 42).
Having crossed the Bay of Biscay, skippers of
southbound boats are faced with the dilemma of
whether to take an easterly or westerly route. The
winner of the first leg of the Whitbread Round the
World Race in 1993 was decided by the choice of
route and therefore the strategy should be based on
the latest weather prognosis available. An easter-
ly route will pass east of the Canaries and,
depending on the time of year and expected weath-
er conditions, either east or west of the Cape Verde
Islands. See also routes ANIS and AN 52 (pages 46
and 74).
l
AT10 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
Those who have decided on a westerly route
should make some westing on leaving the English
Channel and set a course to pass west of Madeira.
.,.
A decision will have to be taken at that point
whether to go inside or outside the Cape Verde
Islands and the various alternatives are described
in AT10. Steadier winds are usually found on the
west side of the Cape Verdes, and if such a route
is taken some easting must be made south of the
islands so as to arrive in the SE trades at a better
angle.
Boats leaving from ports in Southern Europe
should follow directions as for AN32 as far as the
Canary Islands from where the same directions
apply as for AT12. If a nonstop passage is pre-
ferred, the route from Gibraltar passes between '·
Madeira and the Canaries and joins the route
from Northern Europe in longitude 20' W (WP
AT115). Normally the SE trades will have been \:·,,
found by the time the equator is crossed and in
November-December they usually extend to lat-
itude 5'N. At this time of year the recommended
longitude for crossing the equator is between 27"W '
.!
and 29"W. Although such a crossing normally ben-
efits both from better winds and a narrower belt
of doldrums, some people prefer to make more
easting north of the equator and carry this advan-
tage through into the SE trades. The risk of such
an action is the risk of having to cross a wider band
of doldrums.
165
TRANSEQUATORlAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC
South of the equator the object ls to make as much
easting as possible while still in the SE trades,
which usually reach as far south as 23 'S. Beyond the
southern limit of the trades the winds are variable.
Between 25'S and Cape Town the predominant
direction of the winds during summer is norther-
ly so that it should not be too difficult to make east-
ing in these latitudes. However, because there is a
much higher proportion of easterly winds in the
eastern half of the South Atlantic, such easting
should not be made too early. Having lost the trade
winds, the route loops towards the Cape of Good
Hope crossing meridian 20W in about 30"5, 10W
in 32 "S, and 0 ·in 35 "S. The rest of the voyage will
be made on the latitude of Cape Town. On nearing
AT12 Canary Islands to South Africa
As the route from Europe to Cape Town passes
dose to the Canaries, most boats which are not
actually racing stop in these island s on their way
south. Such a stop allows a departure from
Europe during the autumn and the subsequent pas-
sage to South Africa can be made when the time is
right. For those who are already underway, a stop
in either the Canaries or the Cape Verdes is not
always justified, particularly in winter when it is
better to cross the equator further west. See also
routes AN52 and AN53 if planning to stop in either
the Cape Verdes or West Africa (pages 74 and 75).
On leaving the Canaries the direct route runs
the South African coast, care must be taken not to
be swept northward by the strong current. Ideally
Cape Town should be approached from the SW.
Occasionally the SE trades extend further south
and make it difficult to make sufficient easting
above latitude 30"5. In such a case the route might
have to take a more southerly dip jlnd pass dose
to Tristan d a Cunha. A stop in tl\.is remote and
windswept island ls well worth a small detour and
the warm welcome from its lonely inhabitants will
make up for the rough anchorage. As the main
anchorage is exposed, i t must be left if the weath-
er deteriorates. See also routes AS21 , AS22, and
AS23 (pages 188, 189 and 190).
SSW and passes dose to 'the NW of the Cape Verde
Islands. This route to the west of the Cape Verdes
is to be preferred between October and January,
when steadier winds are found west of those
islands. Directions concerning the longitudes in
which the equator should be crossed are given in
ATlO. Sou th of the equator similar directions apply
as for route AT11.
Although the route crosses a potential breed ing
ground for hurricanes to the west of the Cape Verde
Islands, these storms rarely reach hurricane force
while they are still developing, so the passag~can
be made at any time of the year. {

AT13 North America to South Africa
As in the case of boats leaving from Europe, the
time of departure from the US east coast is dictat-
ed by the best time for rounding the Cape of Good
Hope, which is between January and March. If the
voyage is to terminate in Cape Town, the time of
arrival is less crucial and the passage can be made
at almost any time, although the winter months in
the Cape area, from May to September, are best
avoided.
A good departure time from any port on the US
east coast is the beginning of November. Such a
departure should avoid both the first of the win-
ter northers and the risk of a late hurricane. As the
NE trade wind belt will have to be traversed across
its entire width, it is preferable to make as much
easting as possible along latitude 35 'N, where NW
winds prevail in November. After meridian 45 'W
has been crossed (WP AT132), the route turns grad-
ually SE to pass close to the west of the Cape Verde
Islands. Some easting should be made south of the
Cape Verdes so that latitude 5 'N is crossed in the
vicinity of the 25 "W meridian (WP AT133). The SE
trades will be met at about this latitude and the rec-
ommended easting allows the equator to be
l
AT10 SOUTHBOUND RO UTES
crossed on the port tack. The point where the equa-
tor is crossed is governed by the width and posi- I
tion of the ITCZ and ATlO describes the optimum
longitudes in which the narrowest band of dol-
drums can be expected at different times of year.
.·)
On a passage to Cape Town, however, the skipper
may decide to carry his easting across the equator,
even if a wider doldrum belt has to be crossed and .1
make use of the engine if necessary. Arriving in the
.S outh Atlantic further east will ensure that the SE
winds will be taken at a better angle. Otherwise, for
the recommended time of year, the equator should
be crossed between longitudes 27"W and 29"W.
The SE trades are crossed at the best angle that
the windward performance of the boat will permit.
The southern limit of these trades extends normally
to a line joining the Cape of Good Hope to the
Brazilian island of Trinidade. The route continues
SE into an area of variables to WP AT134. Roughly
the same course should be maintained until lati-
tude 35 'Sis reached. The rest of the passage to Cape
Town should be sailed along this latitude. See also
routes ATll, AS22, and AS23 (pages 165, 189 and
190).
'!,
.
167
TRANSEQUATORIAL RO UTES IN THE ATLANTIC
AT14 Canary Islands to Brazil
The timing of this passage is dictated primarily by
the preferred time of arrival in Brazil, rather than
by sailing conditions expected en route. The
majority of those who make this passage attempt
to be in Brazil for Carnival, which means arriving
in Salvador (Bahia) or Rio de Janiero before the
beginning of February.
The passage across the doldrums presents a
major dilemma, with opinions divided over the
best place to cross the equator. The first decision,
however, is whether to sail inside or outside the
Cape Verde Islands after leaving the Canaries. If a
stop in either the Cape Verde Islands or in West
Africa is not being considered, it is probably bet-
ter to keep slightly to the west of the Cape Verde
Islands (WP AT142). Depending on the time of year,
the NE trades will be lost somewhere between 10 'N
(September) and 4 °N (December). As the Atlantic
doldrum belt narrows towards the west, it is more
logical to try and cross it nearer the Brazilian coast.
Boats crossing the doldrums near the African coast
normally have to go much farther in search of the
SE trade winds than those which cross further west.
The width of the doldrums fluctuates greatly
according to season and longitude, being anything
from 100 to 400 miles wide. Southbound vessels
normally find the SE trade winds between the
equator (July) and latitude 3'5 (January), although
winds with a southerly component may be encoun-
tered anywhere south of 10°N.
A popular stop for boats en route to Brazil is
Fernando de Noronha, a small island off the coast
of Brazil. Those intending to stop there can;,fiake
landfall NE of the island at WP AT143, whi~h has
been listed as an intermediate waypoint. Although
not an official port of entry, boats are allowed to
make a short stop there. A convenient port of entry
into Brazil, just south of the equator; is Fortaleza.
Other landfalls and possible destinations listed are
Salvador and Rio de Janeiro. It should be pointed
out that between October and February NE winds
prevail along the Brazilian coast between Cape Sao
Roque and Cape Frio, making southbound pas-
sages easy, also helped by the SW setting current.
Sailors are reminded that most foreign nationals
visiting Brazil must arrive with a valid visa.

AT15 Cape Verde Islands to Brazil
Suggestions regarding the optimum point for cross-
ing the equator are given in ATlO. If the destination
in Brazil is between Cape Sao Roque and Cape Frio,
the equator can be crossed further west than the
recommended crossing points for routes which
continue towards South Africa. However, the equa-
tor should not be crossed further west than 30'W,
as this might mean beating against the SE trades
south of the equator unless this passage is made
between October and February, when NE winds
prevail between Cape Sao Roque and Cape Frio.
During the favourable season, the winds along
the Brazilian coast are NE and the current sets SW,
making it easy to reach any port along this stretch
of coast. Between March and September the winds
are predominantly SE and the current sets NE. This
makes it necessary to make southing well off the
coast and attempt to make landfall to windward of
AT16 West Africa to Brazil
AT10 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
the port of destination. Coming from the north it
is advisable to plan to arrive in the more southern
ports between October and February, when the
winds are NE, and sail up the coast during the rest
of the year, when the SE trades take over.
The rocks of St Peter and St Paul should be I
approached with extreme caution as they are often
difficult to see until very close to them. Depending
at which point the Brazilian coast is approached,
a popular first stop is Fernando de Noronha, a
small island off Cape Sao Roque. Those planning
to stop there should make landfall NE of the island
at WP AT151. Although not an official port of entry,
boats are .allowed to make a short stop there. A con-
venient port of entry, just south of the equator, is
Fortaleza. Other landfalls and possible destinations
listed are Recife and Salvador.
i'
~
i'
i'
!
169
:::::- . :··· ··.- -
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC
West Africa is becoming a more popular destina-
tion and many boats that cruise there continue their
voyage to Brazil before sailing on to the Caribbean.
The transequatorial passage requires careful plan-
ning as the doldrum belt in the proximity of the
African coast can be 400-500 miles wide. Even if
one is prepared to try and motor through it, a
power assisted passage through the doldrums can
AT17 Lesser Antilles to Brazil
The strong NW setting Guyana current dissuades
most people from undertaking this direct passage,
and those who have attempted it in the past have
preferred to take an offshore route. However, by
staying close inshore, it is possible to avoid the
worst of the current. The best place to start this voy-
age is in Trinidad from where the coast of South
America should be followed by staying close to or
even inside the 10 fathom line. Because of the exten-
sive continental shelf, shallow waters reach far off-
shore allowing one to sail relatively long tacks.
Occasionally a favourable countercurrent will also
be found. Naturally, the help of a powerful engine
will come in useful and also the full range of coastal
charts. As one approaches the mouth of the
Amazon, it is advisable to move offshore to avoid
the worst of the river currents.
Past Cape Sao Roque, conditions during the rec-
ommended season improve dramatically as the
1?n
be very uncomfortable because of the confused
swell generated by the trade wind systems meet-
ing at that point. It is therefore recommended to try
and stay with the NE trades north of the equator
and only cross it in longitude 29'W or 30'W. A more
westerly crossing point is not advisable if making
for Salvador because of the risk of headwinds south
of the equator. See also AT10 and AT15.
winds along the Brazilian coast are NE between
October and February. The current is also
favourable as it sets SW, making it easy to reach any
port along this stretch of the coast. Between March
and September the winds are predominantly SE
and the current sets NE. For southbound boats dur-
ing this period it thus becomes necessary to sail
well off the coast where the chances of finding
favourable winds are better.
The logical departure point for the southbound
passage is Trinidad. Although enjoying NE trade
winds for most of the year, the more southerly posi-
tion of Trinidad and its proximity to the mainland
coast does lessen their effect in the summer
months from June to November, which is also the
rainy season. A SE wind sweeps across the plains
bordering the Gulf of Paria, building up a sea every
afternoon in the gulf. Sea conditions are general-
ly rough near the island due to the clashing of

winds and currents setting strongly out of the Gulf
j· of Paria and around the north coast of the island .
I The current in the Dragon's Mouth can have
I northerly sets of 5 knots and seldom sets south.
I Being sou th of the hurricane area, Trinidad rarely
suffers any serious storms and this century only
I one tropical storm has affected the island.
The three former Guyanas, British (Guyana),
I
I
Dutch (Suriname), and French (Cayenne) will be
passed on the way south. This region of the South
American continent lies mainly in the belt of the NE
I trades, although the SE trade winds do penetrate
into the area from August to October when the
lTCZ moves north. May to July is the wettest sea-
son, September and October the driest months. The
NE trade winds are strongest from January to
I March with a more northerly component earlier in
the season and more easterly later on. From May
through to July there are more calms and frequent
squalls as the winds gradually change through
ENE to ESE. When established, the SE trade winds
are not very strong and the change back to the NE
AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES
AT21 Brazil to Lesser Antilles
AT22 Brazil to Europe
AT23 South Africa to Azores
AT24 South Africa to Lesser Antilles
AT25 South Africa to North America
; AT26 Cape Horn to Europe .
>. AT27 Cape Horn to North America
The transequatorial strategy for northbound ves-
sels is somewhat less daunting than the one applied
by boats heading south and the point where the
equator should be crossed is dictated by the loca-
tions of the ports of departure and destination. As
most boats sailing north from Cape Town call at St
Helena, the best course from there is to sail west of
Ascension Island so as to cross the equator
between longitudes 25'W and 30'W. In July and
August, the equator should be crossed further east,
between longitudes 20'W and 25"W, to ensure bet-
ter winds north of the equator. The longitude of
crossing depends greatly on the route that will be
pursued in the North Atlantic, as a more easterly
crossing will ensure a better slant in the NE trade
winds on the subsequent leg to the Azores.
AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES
in late October or early November occurs more
suddenly and without the squalls that characterise
the other change of season. Near to the coast the
winds decrease at night and pick up again in the
morning, usually the earlier in the day this occurs
the stronger the wind will be that day. Land breezes
from SW to NW can occur close to the coast, espe-
cially towards the latter part of the year, but they
do not last long. The only official port of entry into
Guyana is its capital Georgetown (6 '49'N, 58 '11'W).
For Suriname, the port of entry is the capital
Paramaribo (5 '50'N, 55'10'W), approximately 13
miles up the Suriname River. Entry formalities in
Cayenne are completed at Degrad des Cannes
(4 '51 'N, 52 '16'W), although southbound boats may
be able to stop without clearing in at the Iles du
Salut (5'15'N, 52'35'W), just inside the border
between Suriname and Cayenne as one comes
south. The first official port of entry into Brazil, just
south of the equator, is Sao Luis Maranhao (2 '30'S,
44'20'W).
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
However, for boats bound for the Caribbean,
Bermuda, or the US east coast, a more westerly
crossing of the equator is recommended to take
advantage of the favourable current.•
From recent reports it appears that boats bound
for the Caribbean from the South Atlantic made
better times by crossing the equator further west,
between longitudes 37"W and 39"W. A counter-
current was reported north of the equator in
approximately 6 'OO'N, 49 '00'W and the favourable
NW setting current was found around S'OO'N,
55 'OO'W. The favourable current can be found ear-
lier by closing w!th the Brazilian coast, but this
means sailing through shallow waters and calls for
very careful navigation. Therefore it may be
preferable to stay offshore.
171
 TRANS EQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

I
I
I·,·Iii

·~I
20"$

I~ 4o•s
oTAISTAN DACUNHA
40' $
eo•w 40"W 20-W O" 20"E
I
AT20 Northbound routes

AT21 Brazil to Lesser Antilles

172

Northbound passages from ports in Southern
Brazil are hampered by the strong NE winds and
SW current, which occur between October and
February. Passages during this time from ports
south of.Recife are best avoided. If the passage can-
not be undertaken at a better time, the only solu-
tion is to stand well offshore until the SE trades are
found and then make northing with their help.
Boats coming from ports south of Rio de Janeiro
will find better conditions between March and
September when the prevailing winds are from the
SE. If an inshore passage from southern ports is
preferred, care must be taken when passing
between the Abrolhos Islands and the mainland as
the charts are inaccurate and the reefs more exten-
sive than charted. If the islands are passed offshore,
caution must also be exercised as the reefs extend
about 35 miles offshore.
From ports north of Recife (Pernambuco), the
passage to the West Indies can be made at any time
of the year, although arriving there during the hur-
ricane season should be avoided. Winds along the
north coast of Brazil are always favourable and the
current sets stron9ly to the northwest. The waters
along this coast1of Brazil are often very muddy
from the Amaz6n, and as depths are shallow a
good distance offshore must be kept as the colour
of water gives no indication of its depth. The extent
of the doldrums varies with the time of year, being
wider during the northern summer. An area of vari-
able winds, calms, and squalls normally extends
from the equator in longitude 30°W to about lati-
tude 3"N-5"N in longitude 38W. Weather condi-
AT22 Bra zil to Europe
AT20 NORTHBOUND RO UTES
tions along the coasts of Guyana and Trinidad are
described in route AT17.
Northbound boats seldom sail nonstop all the
way to the Caribbean and there are several inter-
esting places worth visiting en route in one of the
three former Guyanas, French (Cayenne), Dutch
(Suriname), and British (Guyana). Entry formali-
ties in Cayenne are completed at Degrad des
Cannes (4 °51 'N, 52 '16'W). Formalities can also be
completed at Kourou. To enter the river on which
Kourou is located, landfall should be made at the
first leading buoy. Its GPS position has been report-
ed as 5 '12.9'N, 52 '36.4'W. Interesting places to visit
nearby are the Iles du Salut and the old French
penal colony. .The recommended anchorage is
located at 5 '17'N, 52 '35'W.
The port of entry for Suriname is Paramaribo
(5'50'N, 55'10'W), approximately 13 miles up the
Suriname River, where boats now clear in at the
new harbour, Nieu Haffen. The least visited of the
three countries is Guyana itself, where the only offi-
cial port of.entry is its capital Georgetown (6 '49'N,
S8 °1l'W). Boats bound for Trinidad will have to
negotiate the Serpent's Mouth, the narrows sepa-
rating the island from the mainland, to reach one
of the ports of entry, of which perhaps the most
convenient is Point Fortin (10 '1l'N, 6l 041'W).
Trinidad Coast Guard should be contacted on VHF
channel 16 as soon as territorial waters are
entered. Boats not intending to stop in Trinidad
itself w ill find a more convenient port of entry at
Scarborough (11 'll'N, 60 '44'W), the capital of
Tobago.
173
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC
Northbound passages from Brazilian ports south
of Cape Frio should avoid the period October to
February, when NE winds prevail along the coast.
During this time, the normal practice is to take a
long tack offshore until well inside the SE trades.
Thls will then make it possible to weather Cape Sao
Roque, at the eastern extremity of Brazil. After suf-
ficient easting has been made, the course can be
altered to northward so that the equator is crossed
between longitudes 28 Wand 30"W.
From April to September northbound passages
are much easier and the equator should be crossed
as far east as possible so as to enter the NE trades
at the most favourable slant. North of the equator
the route runs close to the west of the Cape Verdes
and on to the Azores, which should be always
AT23 South Africa to A zores
174
passed to the west if the vessel is bound for
Northern Europe (route AT22A). Depending on the
winds encountered in the vicinity of the Azores, the
recommended practice is to stay on the tack which
gives most northing as westerly winds will be
found in hlgher latitudes and the course can then
be altered to NE. For the rest of the passage to
Northern Europe see route AN132 (page 143).
For vessels bound for the Mediterranean (route
AT22B), the route north of the equator should stay
as far east as the E trade winds will allow. If too
much leeway is made to the west and the Azores
cannot be avoided, Horta or Ponta Delgada provide
convenient stops from where route AN134 gives
details for the continuation of the voyage to the
Mediterranean (page 146).

The great circle route from Cape Town to the
Azores runs close to both St Helena (route AS11)
and Ascension (route AS12) and few boats pass
those islands without stopping briefly. If no stop
is intended, the great circle route should be{ aken
from Cape Town to one of the longitudes recom-
mended in ATlO where the equator should be
crossed. As most of the passage in the South
Atlantic is made in the SE trades, steady winds can
be expected almost all the way to the equator. From
Ascension, the route continues in a NW direction
towards the equator which is crossed further west
during the northern winter and further east in sum-
mer. The recommended longitudes are between
26 'Wand 28 'Win December to February, 22 "W to
25 "W between June and September. The latter peri-
od coincides with the SW monsoon, when it may
be better to cross the equator more to the east and
take a route between the Cape Verde Islands and
the African coast to take advantage of the SW
AT24 South Africa to Lesser Antilles
As an alternative to AT25, this route has the advan-
tage that it can leave South Africa earlier so as to
arrive in the Caribbean after the middle of
AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES
winds. This would mean that the NE trades would
be enterec;I at a better angle north of the Cape
Verdes. Such an alternative route could also include
a detour to West Africa.
The route inside of the Cape Verdes is not rec-
ommended in winter when the islands should be
passed as closely as possible on their west side. To
be able to do this, sufficient easting must be made
while still in the SE trades. Otherwise the easting
will have to be made with the help of the engine
before the NE trade winds are met in the vicinity
of S'N. A route which passes close to the Cape
Verdes, or is even interrupted there, is essential as
it increases the chances of reaching the Azores on
one tack. Official ports of entry in the Cape Verdes
are Mindelo (16 '53'N, 25'00'W), Praia (14 '54'N,
23 '31 'W), and Sal (16 '45'N, 23 'OO'W). Directions for
the continuation of the route to the Azores ar.e
given in AN61 (page 81).
1·
"
J•
!'
i'I
I:
November and the start of the safe cruising season
there. As the route passes close to St Helena, most
boats make a brief call there before continuing
175
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

towards the equator. Another favoured stop en For boats arriving from the south, the most con-
route to the Caribbean is the island of Fernando de venient landfaJls in the Caribbean are:
Noronha, off the coast of Brazil. Directions for the
AT244, five miles SE of Scarborough, the capital of
above routes are given in AS11 and AS13 (pages 183 Tobago, where entry formalities into Trinidad and
and 185).
Tobago can be completed.
The direct route from South Africa to the AT245, five miles SW of South Point, the southern
Caribbean crosses the equator in about longitude
extremity of Barbados. Formalities,are completed
32•30• (WJ' AT243), where the d oldrums are very
in the commercial port of Bridgetown, north of
narrow at the recommended time of year
Carlisle Bay, the recommended anchorage.
(December to February). The SE trades are nor-
AT246, four miles east of Cape Marquis, on the NE
mally lost soon after the equator has been crossed
coast of St Lucia. Having sailed along the north
and the NE trades are picked up 100 to 150 miles
coast of St Lucia, the marina in Rodney Bay makes
further on. The route continues parallel to the coast
an excellent landfall where entry formalities can be
of Brazil, where a very strong current setting NW
completed. St Lucia can be also approached f_rom
at rates of 1 1 /2 to 2 knots gives an excellent boost.
the south, in which case the port of entry at Vieux
Route AT21 describes some of the possible stops
Fort (13 °44'N, 60 "57') can be used.
along the northern coast of South America. AT247, three miles SSE of Martinique. The nearest
As the NE trade winds are normally found in
place to complete formalities is Cul. de Sac d.u
about latitude 5 ·N and their initial direction is Marin, a small port on the SE hp of the island. This
sometimes NNE, boats that are bound for the
is more convenient than the capital Fort de
Leeward or Virgin Islands are ad vised not to cross
France, which is another 25 miles up the coast.
the equator too far west so as to have a better slant
AT248, two miles SSE of English Harbour on the SE
through the trades. In such a case, the recom-
coast of Antigua. Formalities can be complefed in
mended longitude for crossing the equator 1s
the nearby historic port of English Harbour.
between 30 "W and 32 ·w.

AT25 South Africa to North America

Similar directions apply as far as the equator as for the small Brazilian island Fernando de Noronha in
route AT23, although a more westerly crossing of which case the equator will be crossed further west
the equator may be preferable for boats bound for than WP AT253. Because the optimum departure
the USA. A convenient stop south of the equator is time from Cape Town (January to March), brings

176

boats too early into the North Atlantic, few people
sail the entire route nonstop and usually make a
detour to the Caribbean. This is easily accomplished
as the route runs quite close to the Lesser Antilles.
Route AN77 describes the subsequent leg from the
islands to the USA (page 92).
Having crossed the equator, the direct route runs
NW through the NE trades to Bermuda from where
AT26 Cape Horn to Europe
This busy route in the heyday of the clipper ships
is used nowadays mainly by participants in round
the world races and only a few cruising boats,
which choose this tough way of reaching Europe
from the antipodes. After rounding Cape Horn,
from WP AT260, five miles south of Cape Horn, the .
course is altered for WP AT261. From here, the
route can pass either east or west of Staten Island.
If this island is passed to seaward, a wide berth
should be given to Cape St John, as a dangerous
tide rip extends offshore for about six miles mak-
ing conditions hazardous when the wind blows
AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES
route AN121 gives directions for the continuation
of the voyage to the USA (page 135). If a nonstop
passage is planned from Cape Town, an arrival in
Bermuda is not recommended before the middle of
April. In t~is cil'se, a departure from Cape Town at
the end of'February or beginning of March is not
too late as favourable sailing conditions still pre-
vail in the South Atlantic.
I
ii
",j
JI
I:
against the tide. Alternatively, the route through Le
Maire Strait can be taken, especially if the intention 1:
is to pass to the west of the Falkland Islands. In this I:
case a course should be set for WP AT262 at the
entrance into the Strait. Going north through Le
Maire Strait it is essential to wait for a fair tide and,
if at all possible, a fair wind as well. The choice
must be made whether to lay a course which will
pass between the mainland and the Falklands or
choose an offshore course. In the latter case a stop
in the Falklands should be considered. WP AT263
keeps well clear of Beauchene Island and Mintay
177
 r

I TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

Rock, south of the Falklands, from where the course
is altered for WP AT264, off Cape Pembroke in the
approaches to Stanley Harbour.
Regardless of whether one stops in the Falklands
or not, there is a choice of either an inshore or off-
shore route to the equator. The inshore route along
the coast of Argentina is the more cautious one as
it benefits from the favourable current, the seas are
not as rough as offshore, and the danger of encoun-
tering icebergs is also greatly reduced. The latter
are usually seen well offshore and occasionally can
reach as far north as the latitude of the River Plate.
Winds from the southerly quarter are most likely
on this stretch during summer months. As the effect
of the Falklands Current peters out, the route
should move offshore so as not to get caught by the
contrary Brazil Current.
If the offshore route is taken from the Falklands,
I routes AT22 and AT23.
I the route runs in a general NE direction through an
area of prevailing westerly winds. It is advisable
1/
to make some easting in these latitudes before
reaching the SE trades so that the subsequent route
to the equator will intersect them at a better angle.
From the Falkland Islands the route passes
through waypoints AT265, AT266, and AT267, so
that the SE trades will be found somewhere along
meridian 30VV. The SE trades normally extend to
latitude 25 ·s and near their southern limit their
direction becomes more easterly. Once in the trades,
the course becomes northerly so that the equator
is crossed between longitudes 26 ·w and 30 °W,
depending on the time of year (see AT20). During
the southern summer, from May to September, it is
usually possible to stay closer to the Brazilian coast
and sail between Cape Frio and the offlying islands.
After the equator is crossed, the NE trade winds
will be found between latitudes 3 °N and 5 °N. For
the continuation of the passage to Europe see

11
:1 AT27 Cape Horn to North America
if
I·

,,
·I'
!1 178

This route follows the same track as route AT26
until the SE trade winds are found, from where a
more westerly route can be taken to the equator
passing close to Fernando de Noronha island . As
far as the equator, the same waypoints can be used
as in AT26. The equator is crossed in about longi-
tude 30'W (WP AT278) and the great circle route is
taken from there either to Bermuda or direct to the
port of destination. This route is not recommend-
ed during the North Atlantic hurricane season, but
as Cape Horn will have been doubled probably
during the most favourable months, which are the
southern summer months of December to February,
AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES
this passage will reach the North Atlantic at the end
of winter. As the optimum time for rounding Cape
Horn does not fit in with the best arrival time in
North America, some aUernatives may have to be
considered to avoid a '{..,int~'r arrival in the USA.
This can be accomplished by spending some time
en route in Brazil, Lesser Antilles, or Bermuda. See
also routes AT21, AN77, and AN78 (pages 172, 92
and 94). The direct route north of the equator pass-
es through the NE trades which normally last as far
as latitude 25'N from where the Horse Latitudes
will have to be crossed.
179
 .. ··:- .· -
7
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
SOUTH ATLANTIC
The Southeast trade winds
Because the lntertropical Convergence Zone is sit-
uated north of the equator throughout the year, it
may be said that the South Atlantic Ocean does not
have a doldrums zone. The SE trade winds are
more constant than their North Atlantic counter-
part, the NE trades. They form the equatorial side
of the air circulation around the oceanic anti-
cyclone, which is situated between latitudes 22'5
and 30'5 and has a direct bearing on the winds and
weather of the entire tropical South Atlantic.
The SE trade winds extend as far as the equator
during the southern winter and their northern limit
" retreats by a few degrees to the south in the sum-
mer after December. Their southern limit extends
normally to a line joining the Cape of Good Hope
to the Brazilian island of Trinidade. Their direction
varies from being SE or SSE on the eastern side of
the ocean to become almost easterly in the western
part. The average strength of the SE trades is 15
knots, but they diminish in strength towards the
equator.
Variables
A zone of light variable winds extends to the south
of the SE trade wind belt and is similar to the Horse
Latitudes of the North Atlantic. This region of vari-
able winds coincides with the areas of oceanic high
pressure which are located between latitudes 25 'S
and 32'5 approximately. Their position is influ-
enced by the seasonal movement of the sun, reach-
ing their southern limit in January and their
180
northern limit in July. To the east of the 0 • merid-
ian the winds tend to be mostly southerly and can
be regarded as an extension of the trades. The sum-
mer winds in the western half of this region are
mostly NE.
Westerlies
The winds in the higher latitudes of the South
Atlantic are predominantly westerly. This is the
region of the Roaring Forties where the continuous
passage of depressions from west to east generate
winds which often blow with gale force. The strong
westerlies are a normal fe;iture of southern waters
where they blow unhindered south of the three
great capes.
Tropical Storms
Tropical revolving storms do not occur in the South
Atlantic Ocean.
Currents
The currents of the South Atlantic Ocean are part
of a well defined anti-clockwise circulation. The
South Equatorial Current flows in a broad belt from
east to west with its axis roughly along latitude 6 'S.
The part of this current which is between the equa-
tor and latitude 6 'Sis reputed to be one of the most
constant currents in the world . The set is always in
a westerly direction, usually between WNW and
WSW, the average rate being about 1 knot. Further
south, to about latitude 20'5, there is the weaker
 WINDS AND C URRENTS OF THE S OUTH A TLANTIC
South Subtropical Current also setting to the west.
The South Equatorial Current extends across the
equator to about latitude 4 'N and one branch of it
combines with the North Equatorial Current to
form a strong current setting towards the West
Indies. The other branch is deflected to the south
by the South American continent and combines
with the South Subtropical Current to form the
Brazil Current. This current sets strongly parallel
to the coast until it reaches latitude 25 'S, where part
of it turns east. The remainder carries on as far as
latitude35'S, where it also turns east to join the vast
body of water which sets eastward and is generated
by the Southern Ocean Current. This broad belt of
cold water sets eastward in the southern hemi-
sphere to the south of all continents. After passing
.....___ South Equatorial Current
South Atlantic wrrents
Cape Horn, a branch of this current turns to the
northeast into the South Atlantic and forms the
Falklands Current.
On the African side the main ocean circulation
of the South Atlantic is completed by the Benguela
Current. This current sets north along the coast of
Africa and is a continuation of the Agulhas
Current after the latter has passed the Cape of Good
Hope. The Benguela Current is reinforced by some
of the Southern Ocean Current. North of latitude
20'5 the Benguela Current sets away from the
African coast fanning out into the Subtropical and
South Equatorial Currents. Near the African coast,
the set of the current is always northerly and from
February to April it reaches as far as the equator.
·1.· ·
~-~
~outh
Subtropical Current' '\ \
/ \\\\
~ ~'
~ c..
Southern Ocean Current
~
181
 Ii
8
ROUTES IN THE
I SOUTH ATLANTIC
I C ompared to the North Atlantic, the South
Atlantic is intersected by only a handful of
routes and the number of cruising boats sailing
I them is relatively small. The classic route from the
Cape of Good Hope to St Helena is used nowadays
by a smaller number of boats than in the past as
I more yachts sail to Europe via the Red Sea and Suez
Canal. One area, however, which has seen an
1 I increase in recent years is Brazil, particularly the
northeastern coast, which is visited by boats mak-
ing a detour on their way from Europe to the
Caribbean. Otherwise, South America is still
largely undiscovered by cruising boats , although
every year an increasing number of yachts brave the
elements and sail down to the Strait of Magellan.
A few yachts reach the Atlantic by sailing from
AS10 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AFRICA
I ASll Cape Town to St Helena
AS12 St Helena to Ascension
AS13 St Helena to Brazil
I AS14 Cape Town to Brazil
The routes leading into the South Atlantic from
South Africa are used mainly by circumnavigating
boats on their way to Europe or North America.
South African yachts, themselves leaving on a
longer cruise, also join these routes. The Cape to
Rio Race, which has been reinstated after an inter-
ruption of several years, is used by many South
Africans as a convenient start to their own voyage.
With the decrease in the number of boats that sail
around the world by way of the Cape of Good
Hope, there are now fewer boats that reach the
Atlantic by this route.
182
/
the South Pacific to Chile eastabout through the
Magellan Strait. The traditional circumnavigating
route around the Cape of Good Hope is used main-
ly by racing boats taking part in such races as the
Whitbread, BOC, Globe Challenge, or Jules Vernes
Trophy. On their return voyage, these boats pass
again through the South Atlantic after having
weathered Cape Horn, a challenge which in
recent years has been confronted by only a hand-
ful of cruising sailors. '
The weather in the South Atlantic is dictated by
the powerful South Atlantic high and as its posi-
tion has a direct bearing on the winds encountered
on most of these routes, an attempt should be made
to obtain its approximate coordinates before leav-
ing on an offshore passage.
183
184
185
186
With the hot mass of Africa to the north and the
cold Antarctic ice to the south, the high coastline
presents an obstacle to opposing air currents from
those regions. The main feature of weather condi-
tions in this area is the high proportion of gale force
winds, which come from almost any direction and
with little warning, quickly raising high and dan-
gerous seas. The weather forecasts here rare!y give
a prognosis for longer than 12 hours. Often winds
build up to gale force in the day and fall at night,
but this is not a rule, nor can it be relied on.
Another local phenomenon is to have gales from
 AS10 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AFRICA

different directions, NE followed by SW on suc-
ceeding days. The strong currents in this area are
part of the reason why seas build up so high and
so rapidly, especially when the gales are opposing
the current. A typical sequence of weather is for a
NE gale to blow hard, followed by a lull, and then
SW winds setting in with gale force. In summer
depressions come up from the south giving a cold
change similar to the southerly busters experienced
in SE Australia.

40' W 20'W

0'
. st Paul
Rocks

20°S

TRISTAN
40°S DACUNHA 40'S

80'W 20'W o• 20'E

A510 and AS20 Routes in the South Atlantic

,,,'·
AS11 Cape Town to St Helena "
Ii
I

:i
ij

::
j·
!

183
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC
Because of the consistency of the SE trade winds
and the absence of tropical storms in the South
Atlantic, this passage can be made throughout the
year. However, most sailors plan on leaving the
Cape area before the onset of the winter gales and
therefore the best time for this passage are the sum-
mer months, from November to April. Such timing
fits most forward plans, whether it is to arrive in
Brazil for Carnival, the Caribbean for the winter
cruising season, or the USA and Europe in late
spring or early summer.
It is generally advisable to wait in Cape Town for
a favourable forecast, or at least until any existing
lows have passed over. Strong SW winds some-
times give a welcome boost at the start of this pas-
sage, although they occasionally reach gale force.
If the African coast is followed northward, the
strong Benguela current will be in one's favour,
although fog is often associated with this area and
is caused by the warm wind blowing over the cold
waters of the current. The suggestion to follow the
African coast, in order to take advantage of the
favourable current and possible land breezes, runs
contrary to the recommendation made in the past
when the masters of sailing ships leaving Cape
Town were urged to make a good offing to the NW
to avoid being caught on a lee shore by W or f\TW
squalls. This advice is still va.Jid and during unset-
tled weather it is indeed better to keep a safe dis-
tance off the coast. Violent onshore squalls have
been·recorded in both seasons, so a prudent dis-
tance should be kept off the coast to be able to take
an offshore tack should a squall strike unexpectedly.
AS12 St Helena to Ascension
As a continuation of a northbound passage from
South Africa, the subsequent leg from St Helena to
Ascension benefits from favourable winds through-
184
During summer, the southern limit of the SE
trades reaches as far as Cape Town, but because of
the peculiar nature of the weather in this area, true
trade wind conditions are usually met only north
of latitude 25 'S. Violent gales of short duration are
not uncommon even during January and February,
which are the best months for this passage,
although the gales occur mainly south of 30"S. As
the position of the South Atlanflc high has such a
major bearing on the winds to be experienced on
this route, its location should be obtained before
leaving Cape Town. One tactic used by past par-
ticipants in the Cape to Rio Race is to stay well to
the east of the high. This may mean staying east of
the rhumb line, but the course can be altered for St
Helena once steady winds have been found.
Boats sailing north along the coast of SW Africa will
find some facilities in the two Namibian ports,
Luderitz (26"38'S, 15"09'E ) and Walvis Bay
(22 "57'S, 14 °30'E ), both used extensively by fish-
ing boats.
Having left Table Bay, from WP AS111, thegreat
circle route leads to WP AS112, east of St Helena.
This rather forbidding island, place of eicile for
Napoleon, often stands out like a fortress, visible
from 60 miles away, due to the excellent clear vis-
ibility that prevails in this region. The island' s only
harbour is called the Anchorage, which gives rea-
sonable shelter from the prevailing SE winds. The
main settlement is Jamestown, where formalities
are completed. Port Control should be contacted on
VHF channel 16 for mooring instructions.
out the year. The direction of the wind is predom-
inantly SE, although its strength varies and some-
times can be light, especially in the summer months

January to March. From WP AS121, NW of St
Helena, a course should be set for WP AS122, SE
of Ascension.
A bustling military base, this outpost in
mid-Atlantic is another welcome stop for those on
long Atlantic voyages. The SE trades have often
spent some of their force by the time they reach
Ascension and can be as light as 5 knots. Heavy
rollers and swell from the NW can be experienced
when the NE trade_is at its height in the North
AS13 St Helena to Brazil
Rather than take the direct route from St Helena to
the Eastern Caribbean, many boats make a detour
to Brazil before rejoining their NW route. One of
the main attractions on Brazil's NE coast is
Salvador, commonly referred to as Bahia, whose
annual Carnival is a keen rival of the more
famous Carnival of Rio. Landfall is made at WP
ASl32 off Cape Santo Antonio in the approaches
to the perfectly sheltered natural harbour. Further
up the Brazilian coast, another convenient port of
entry is Recife. Landfall can be made at WP AS133,
3 miles outside the harbour.
Boats not intending to stop in mainland Brazil
often use the island of Fernando de Noronha, off
Cape Sao Roque, as a convenient stop on the way
to the Caribbean. Landfall can be made SE of the
island at WP AS134. Although not an official port
ASlO ROUTES FROM SOUTH AFRICA .-!
Atlantic, which can make landing difficult.
Ascension Island is a British military base and
yachts are discouraged from calling there unless
they have an emergency. Because of its military
nature, yachts may only stop in Ascension for 48
hours. Formalities are completed in Georgetown
and the anchorage is at Clarence Bay. Yachts are
supposed to anchor in the area north of Pierhead,
in Clarence Bay.
of entry, boats are allowed to make a short stop
there. A convenient port of entry into Brazil, just
south of the equator, is Fortaleza. Those intending
to stop in mainland Brazil must arrive with a valid
visa which is required of most nationalities. Route
AT21 gives details of the rest of the route to the
Eastern Caribbean (page 172).
The weather on this route is mostly pleasant,
with consistent E and SE winds that very rarely
reach gale force. Between March and September the
winds along the Brazilian coast are predominant-
ly SE and the current sets NE. Between October and
February the prevailing winds are NE and the cur-
rent sets to SW, a combination making northbound
passages very difficult. During this period it.is rec-
ommended to either keep well offshore or plan
one's arrival for the favourable season.
185
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC
AS14 Cape Town to Brazil
The great circle route to Rio de Janeiro and ports
south of Cape Frio is well outside the southern limit
of the SE trade winds, so it is advisable to make this
passage between latitudes 20°S and 23 °S where the
chances of having favourable winds is much
greater. The SE trade winds. have their southern
limit along a diagonal line that runs from Trinidade
Island to the Cape of Good Hope. The initial route
from Cape Town runs NW for about 1200 miles
until steady SE trades are found. It then goes west
as far as longitude 30 °W, from where a course is
shaped for the coast. A similar tactic, taking full
advantage of the SE trade winds, should also be
used if sailing to ports lying further south along the
coast of South America.
A more direct route from Cape Town can be
steered to ports lying north of Cape Frio. As the
ports on the Brazilian coast between Cape Silo
Roque and Cape Frio are under the influence of
steady NE winds between October and February
186
and the current along the coast also sets SW, a sub-
sequent passage from Rio de Janeiro n orthward
should be planned for the SE season, from March
to September.
Although intermediate waypoints cannot be
given as the rou te across will depend entirely on
weather conditions at the time the passage is made,
landfall waypoints only are listed to ease planning:
WP AS141 in the approaches to Rio de Janeiro, WP
AS142 off Cape Santo Antonio in the approaches
to Salvador (Bahia), WP AS143, three miles outside
Recife. As explained in AS13, some boats use the
island of Fernando d e Noronha, off Cape Sao
Roque, as a convenient stop on ·the way to the
Caribbean. Landfall is made SE of the island at WP
AS144. Although not an official port of entry, boats
are allowed to make a short stop there. A conve-
nient port of entry into Brazil, just south of the
equator, is Fortaleza.
 AS20 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA

AS20 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA

AS21 South America to South Africa
AS22 Brazil to Tristan da Cunha
AS23 Tristan da Cunha to Cape Town
AS24 South America to Falkland Islands
AS25 South America to Magellan Strait
AS26 Magellan Strait to Falkland Islands
AS27 Falkland Islands to South America
The small number of routes in the South Atlantic
is not due to a paucity of destinations as there are
many interesting places to visit in South America.
Nor is the weather itself an impediment as, par-
ticularly in the tropics, weather conditions can be
very pleasant throughout the year with the added
advantage that the area is not affected by tropical
storms. In the past, most cruising boats reached
South America as part of a longer voyage that, in
most cases, had taken them through the Indian
Ocean and South Africa or, less commonly, around
Cape Horn. Nowadays, many circumnavigators
188
190
190
191
192
193
193
prefer the Red Sea route and so the boats that reach
South America, and pa,r,~cularly Brazil, arrive from
the North Atlantic, either from the Canaries
direct or by way of a detour to West Africa. Not
many boats sail further south than Rio de Janeiro
before turning around and heading for the
Caribbean. The southern half of South America is
still to be discovered by cruising boats in any num-
bers and, although every year more boats venture
to the Straits of Magellan, Falklands, Cape Horn,
and even Antarctica, they are still the exception.
Whereas passages in the northern half of the South

o•

TRISTAN
DACUNHA 40' S

20'W o• 20'E

ASIO and AS20 Routes in the South Atlantic

187
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC
Atlantic can be undertaken at any time of the year,
the weather in the southern part is not conducive
to cruising during the months December to March.
In the River Plate estuary in the summer months
from September through to March, the prevailing
wind is from an easterly direction. The rest of the
year a W to SW wind prevails in the entrance reach-
es, becoming more northerly in the river. The
weather is usually fine when the wind is settled in
the north. During June to October, strong SW
squalls called pamperos can occur with little warn-
ing. Named because they blow across the pampas,
these squalls bring rain and cold temperatures that
can even change the rain to hail. Most frequent in
the winter months, the pamperos can last two or
three days, occasionally longer. In other months
they are Jess frequent and do not last so long, but
I may pack a more violent wind. Although centred
on the Rio de la Plata, the pamperos affect the sur-
I: rounding coastal area between latitudes 31 • and
40 "S and as far out to sea as 48 "W.
I The southern coast of Brazil from Rio de Janeiro
to Rio de la Plata has very variable winds with sea-
sonal variations. From October through to April,
I
I winds from a NE d irection predominate, which
when strong are usually followed by calms and a
SW wind. In April NW and SW winds blow in
equal proportion to the NE winds, which after a
few SE to SW gales give way to SW winds in May.
These SW winds prevail until October. From July
to September, westerly winds bring bad weather
on rare occasions. NW squalls lasting several
hours occur at this time near Rio de Janeiro.
AS21 South America to South Africa
188
Above Rio de Janeiro the lower east coast of
Brazil enjoys NE winds, fine weather, and a clear
sky for most of the year, the winds being strongest
close to the coast from December to February. Off
the capes of Frio and Sao Tom~ the combination of
fresh NE winds and strong currents can create
rough seas. The NE winds are not felt so strongly
west of Cape Frio as the mountai.ns check their
force. Higher_,up the coast the SE trade wind is felt
from March to August as far south as Salvador
(Bahia), although the rest of the year it reaches only
as far as Recife (Pernambuco). Both the SE and NE
winds sometimes give way to squally SW weath-
er lasting a few days and bringing clouds and rain.
This SW weather occurs particularly from April to
August when the winds are usually lighter and
more variable. The barometer usually falls 24 hours
before the onset of SW winds. Although there are
land and sea breezes all along the coast, the land
breeze is normally short-lived and weak unless the
sea breeze is strong.
On the north coast of Brazil towar ds the
Amazon, the movement .of the Intertropical
Convergence Zone influences the weather bring-
ing the SE trade wind, accompanied by fine weath-
er, from August to October and the NE trade wind
from November to March. This latter period is the
wet season along this coast. Both of these winds
have a more easterly component tending to be ESE
and ENE. Between April and the onset of the SE
trades in August, the wind first moves into the ESE
and then gives way to a couple of months of dol-
drum weather with calms, squalls, and variables.

A direct route to the Cape of Good Hope cannot be
sailed from any of the northern ports in South
America on account of the SE trade winds which
blow consistently in the tropical South Atlantic vir-
tually throughout the year. The one exception is the
area south of Cape Sao Roque, below the bulge of
South America, where NE winds prevail between
October and February. During the same period, a
favourable SW current also sets parallel to the
coast. Boats leaving from one of the ports in
Northern Brazil should take advantage of winds
and current to make the necessary southing
before heading offshore.
If leaving from one of the ports in Southern
Brazil, the most favourable tack .should be sailed
to reach the area of westerly winds, the northern
limit of which depends on the time of year. An area
of variable winds will have to be crossed between
latitudes 25 'Sand 33 'S, its width being dependent
on the time of year. At the beginning of summer,
W or N winds will be found around latitude 33 'S,
but as the summer progresses the northern limit of
the westerlies retracts, and it may be necessary to
sail to 37"S and even 38 ·s to find steady westerly
winds.
Taking WP AS210 as a departure point from Rio.
de Janeiro, a course should be set slightly south of
the great circle route to reach the area of favourable
AS20 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA
winds as soon as possible. Having reached WP
AS211 the recommended route continues to WP
AS212. To increase the chances of finding good
winds it may be necessary to dip even further south
of the great circle route to WP AS213, 60 miles north
of Tristan da Cunha. It is at this point that one may
decide to stop at that island (see also route AS22).
Having reached this point, the temptation should
be resisted to join the shortest route for the rest of
the voyage to Cape Town as staying on a higher lat-
itude increases the chances of having better winds
as one approaches the tip of Africa, especially if met
by strong southerly winds. Therefore the great cir-
cle route for Cape Town should not be joined before
WP AS214 is passed.
Boats leaving from ports in Uruguay or
Argentina benefit. from better winds and can sail
the great circle route to South Africa. Leaving from
WP AS215, at the mouth of Rio de la Plata, a rhumb
line to WP AN213 has better chances of favourable
winds than a great circle route. As described above,
a stop in Tristan da Cunha may be considered as the
island lies very close to the recommended route to
Cape Town. Directions for the rest of the passage
are the same as those described above. Landfall will
be made at WP AS216, in the approaches to Cape
Town. Cape Town is South Africa's premier yacht-
ing centre with excellent repair facilities.
J.
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC
AS22 Brazil to Tristan da Cunha
Departure
As the great circle route from Rio de Janeiro to Cape
Town passes through an area of variable winds,
navigators are advised to set a more SW course on
leaving Rio de Janeiro so as to reach the area of pre-
vailing NW and W winds sooner. Such a route pass-
es close to Tristan da Cunha. From WP A5220, SE
of Rio de Janeiro, a course should be set for WP
AS221. From there the course can be altered for WP
AS222, some eight miles NW of Tristan da Cunha.
If this passage is made at the beginning of summer,
in October or November, westerly winds are usu-
AS23 Tristan da Cunha to Cape Town
The winds below latitude 35'S are much more
favourable for the passage to Cape Town than those
blowing further north and so a more southerly
route is recommend ed. Near Tristan da Cunha
the winds are mostly from between N and W in
summer becoming more westerly as one moves
east. From WP AS230 the recommended route runs
due east along the latitude of Trist~n da Cunha.
From WP AS231 a direct course can be set for WP
l
i
i
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
ally found in latitude 33 'Sor 34 ·sand it may not
be necessary to go south in search of steady winds.
As the summer progresses, the belt of variables
moves south and in February or March it may be
necessary to go as far as 37'S to find steady west-
erlies. The winds in these latitudes are usually 20
to 25 knots, occasionally reaching 40 knots.
The island's port of entry is Edinburgh. The small
harbour is only suitable for the small local boats,
but an anchorage can usually be found in the lee
of the island.
AS232 in the approaches to Cape Town. As the pre-
vailing summer winds in the Cape Town area are
SE and gales from that direction are frequent, the
coast should be approached from the SW to avoid
being set to leeward by the wind and current set-
ting strongly northward . Cape Town is South
Africa's premier yachting centre with excellent
repair facilities.

AS24 South America to Falkland Islands
The route from Rio de Janeiro southward runs close
to the coast, and if not calling at ports in the Rio de
la Plata estuary, the direct offshore route is to be
preferred, certainly as far south as latitude 35 'S.
The winds between Rio de Janeiro and this latitude
are mostly NE in summer. South of latitude 35'5,
winds become increasingly westerly and it is advis-
able to stay well to the west of the direct route to
the Falklands to avoid being blown off course by
a westerly gale. The weather is generally better
inshore than further offshore. Another reason why
an inshore route is preferable is to avoid the strong
north setting Falklands Current which can reach as
much as 2 knots offshore. For these reasons, south
of the River Plate estuary the route should run par- .
allel and very close to the Argentinian coast.
From Rio de Janeiro and WP AS240, the course
follows the coast closely to take advantage of the
favourable wind and current. The course is altered
at WP AS241, in the Rio de la Plata estuary, for WP
AS242. The recommended route runs parallel to the
Argentinian coast, at 60 to 100 miles offshore. There
are several ports in Argentina where it is possible
to stop in an emergency, such as Mar del Plata,
Puerto Madryn, or Puerto Deseado. Having run
closely to the Argentinian shore, at WP AS243 the
route swings offshore and a course can be set for
WP AS244, seven miles NE of Volunteer Point on
East Falkland. The course can then be altered for
A520 RO UTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA
WP AS245, off Cape Pembroke in the approaches
to Port Stanley.
The prevailing wind direction in the Falklands
is westerly and these truly windy islands have an
average yearly wind speed of 17 knots with a slight
rise in the summer months of December to March.
The winds can drop to calm at sunset with a ten-
dency to increase to 10- 15 knots during the night,
calming again at dawn. The winds tend to increase
during the day and can reach gale force by the
afternoon.
Gales usually begin in the l\TW and quickly draw
around to the SW. The worst gales tend to be those
from the N and NE, which are not easily predict-
ed and often occur without warning. They are
caused by depressions moving north between the
islands and the Patagonian coast. Northerly
winds, which are common in the summer months
from December to April, often produce fog along
the north coast. When strong westerlies are blow-
ing, the islands are prone to willywaws, which can
be extremely dangerous to small craft. These occur
mostly in the lee of the islands and in some·of the
narrow passages between islands in the west.
Those who plan to cruise among \he islands
should obtain the 'mine maps' which are given free
of charge at the Secretariat Building in Port
Stanley and contain details of the areas which were
mined during the 1982 war.
191
ROUTES JN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC
AS25 South America to Magellan Strait
The southbound route from Rio de Janeiro runs
parallel to the coast and, as far as the latitude of the
Falkland Islands, directions are similar to those
described for route AS24. A place with good facil-
ities at which to prepare for the southbound pas-
sage is.Mar d el Plata, which is also the base of the
whale watching boats going to the Valdez
Peninsula.
Caution must be exercised when sailing close to
the land because of the danger of onshore currents.
From Rio de Ia Plata southward, the route runs very
close to the coast to stay in sheltered waters and
also to avoid· the strong north setting Falklands
Current. The winds in this region are predomi-
nantly westerly so that the risk of being caught on
a lee shore is remote. Gales from the east are
extremely rare and when they occur, there is always
sufficient warning.
From September Uuough to June one can get SE
gales accompanied by rain and heavy seas. These
winds can also bring fog. A very dense fog can also
occur with NW winds along the southerly portions
of this coast in the months from February to Octo-
ber. When the wind shifts more to the south of west
the fog usually clears. In warmer weather thunder
and lightning can occur with N and W winds.
Northerly gales are preceded by overcast skies,
haze, lots of small cloud very high up, and some
lightning. The wind increases gradually to gale
1 Q?
force. On the other hand southerly winds increase
to gale force much more suddenly and are more
violent. A sign of impending bad weather from the
south is large masses of heavy cloud on the south-
ern horizon. If a very low barometer starts rising,
this may also be a sign of a wind shift to the south.
From WP AS253, off Puerto Deseado, the course
can be altered for WP AS254, NE of Cape Virgins,
at the entrance into the Strait of Magellan. The strait
must be approached with extreme caution as the
tidal range is great and the tidal streams set strong-
ly towards Sarmiento Bank and the dangers
extending from Cape Virgins.
The time of arrival at the strait should coincide
with the start of the favourable tide and it must be
remembered that the times of high and low water
get later as one proceeds westward, until Royal
Road is passed. This fact greatly assists passages
from east to west and a vessel that catches the
beginning of the west setting stream in the First
Narrows has a good chance to ride the favourable
tide for 9 hours, possibly as far as Punta Arenas.
The tidal stream runs through the First Narrows
from 5 to 7 knots and through the Second Narrows
from 3 to 6 knots. The tidal range itself varies from
about 40 feet at the east end of the strait to only 5
feet at its western end.
The usual route from the Atlantic runs through
the following channels: Smyth, Sarmiento,

Inocentes, Concepcion, Largo, Messier and out
through the Gulf of Penas into the Pacific Ocean.
A shorter route reaches the Pacific through
Cockburn Channel.
Yachts bound for Cape Horn should sail due
AS26 Magellan Strait to Falkland Islands '.''
The Falkland Islands are best visited after sailing
eastwards through the Strait of Magellan as the pre-
vailing westerly winds make this a relatively easy
passage. Caution must be exercised when leaving
the strait as the strong tidal stream often sets
towards the rocks extending offshore from Cape
Virgins. From Dungeness Point and WP AS260 at
AS27 Falkland Islands to South America
The northbound passage as far as Rio d e la Plata
can be done throughout the summer months and
the direct route benefits both from the strong north
setting Falklands Current and the prevailing W
winds. North of Rio de la Plata, the prevailing
AS20 RO UTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA
south from WP AS253 to WP AS255, north of Cape
San Diego, at the entrance into Le Maire Strait.
Having weathered the famous Cape Horn, the rest
of Patagonia can be explored by going through the
Beagle Channel to reach more sheltered waters.
the entrance into the Strait of Magellan, a course
can be set almost due east to WP AS261, SW of East
Falkland. The route follows the south and east
coasts of that island passing between it and Sea
Lion Island and avoiding several dangers, such as
Shag Rock. Having rounded Cape Pembroke at WP
AS262, the course can be altered for Port Stanley.
winds in summer (October to March) are NE and
therefore this passage should not be attempted
before April. Ideally the passage from the Falklands
to Rio de la Plata should be done between
December and February, with the subsequent leg
193
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC
to Rio de Janeiro and beyond only being under-
taken later, between May and September, when
favourable winds prevail along the entire Brazilian
coast.
From WP AS271 off Volunteer Point on East
Falkland, the course for the River Plate estuary runs
almost due north, on a rhumb line, to WP AS272.
Boats bound for Rio de Janeiro should join the great
194
circle route which passes through WP AS273 and
thence to WP AS274 in the approaches to Rio de
Janeiro.
A passage from the Falklands to Europe or the
US east coast can either incorporate the above alter-
native or it can join the direct routes from Cape
Horn to those destinations as described in routes
AT26 and AT27(pages 177 and 178j.
 9
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH PACIFIC
The Northeast trade winds
These winds blow on the southern side of the area
of high pressure, which is normally located
around latitude30"N. During the summer months
this high is usually situated farther north than in
winter and the NE trades can be found as far north
as latitude 32 '. During the summer the trade winds
are predominant to the east of the 150"E meridian,
being replaced to the west of this meridian by the
SW monsoon of the Western Pacific Ocean.
The NE trade winds of the North Pacific Ocean
are particularly consistent in both direction and
strength over large areas. Their direction is more
N and even NW near the American coast, becom-
ing increasingly E towards the west. Their strength
is about 10-15 knots, although they can become
fresher at times and at the height of the trade wind
season stronger winds of 30 knots are not uncom-
mon. The strongest winds are likely to be encoun-
tered in winter, between November and March, but
they diminish in strength as one moves south
towards the equator.
The entire trade wind belt moves north and
south throughout the year in accordance with the
declination of the sun. However, their northern and
southern limits do not run in a straight line from
east to west, but in a curve which reaches its high-
est point in summer in about latitude 35"N about
200 miles from the American coast, the corre-
sponding southern limit being in latitude 8 "N. The
northern limit of the trade winds in winter is 29"N,
in about longitude 150 'W, with the southern limit
for the same period being the equator.
Intertropical Convergence Zone
The NE trade winds are bound to the south by the
ITCZ, which remains north of the equator through-
out the year east of meridian 160'W. To the west of
that longitude it moves south of the equator dur-
ing the northern winter, from about December to
April or early May. During the summer of the
northern hemisphere, when the SE trade winds are
at their strongest in the South Pacific, the ITCZ dis-
appears altogether west of about 150'W, where the
two trade wind systems almost run into each other
and the belt of doldrums is virtually nonexistent.
In the western part of the North Pacific, the ITCZ
is only present during the changeover periods of
the monsoons, either from mid-April to mid-May
or from mid-September to mid-November.
The weather inside the zone is typical doldrums
weather, with calms or very light winds alternat-
ing with squalls, heavy rain, and thunderstorms.
However, as one moves west, the frequency of
calms and light variable winds become6 less and
the prevailing winds, even inside the doldrums, are
easterlies. This is a fact worth bearing in mind if
planning transequatorial passages especially west
of the meridian of the Marquesas.
The Northeast monsoon
The intense cold of the winter months over the land
mass of Asia creates an area of high pressure over
parts of the Far East. The resulting wind circulation
around this winter high p roduces a flow of NE
winds which prevail during the winter months in
195
:.
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC
North Pacific Currents
the China Sea and adjacent waters. The NE mon-
soon of the Western North Pacific is particularly
noticeable between latitudes 5 "N and 30"N. Its east-
ern limits are more difficult to define as it merges
with the NE trade winds of the North Pacific.
Although the monsoons of the China Sea can be
regarded as an extension of the monsoon system of
the Indian Ocean, there is a certain difference
between them. In the China Sea, it is the NE mon-
soon of the winter months which is the stronger
and more consistent wind, whereas in the Indian
Ocean, the SW monsoon of summer is the stronger
constant wind. At its height, the NE monsoon of the
China Sea forms a continuous wind system with
the NE trade wind of the North Pacific, so that in
North Equatorial Current
~:
,._ ,
South Equatorial Current
December and January particularly, there is a belt
of strong NE winds right across the ocean from
California to China.
The arrival of the monsoon depends on latitude
and it starts earlier in the north and later further
south. Although it commences around September
at its northern limit, the NE monsoon is only fully
established in the area by late November and lasts
until March. During the changeover periods with the
SW monsoon, in April-May and August- September,
there are calms and variable winds.
The strength of the wind is also influenced by lat-
itude, the monsoon being strongest in the north,
where it blows an average 25 knots, decreasing to
15 knots and less among the islands of the

<:CJ CLIPPEATON
Equatorial Counter Current
Philippines and Northern Indonesia. However, at
the height of winter, in December and January, the
monsoon can blow with gale force for many days,
the stormiest area being the open waters between
the Philippines, Taiwan, and Japan.
The Southwest monsoon
A reversal of the NE monsoon occurs during the
summer when the heating up of Asia creates a large
area of low pressure over the eastern part of the
continent. As a result of this, the SE trade winds of
the Indian and Pacific Oceans are drawn across the
equator. Because of the rotation of the earth, the SE
wind~ are deflected to the right becoming the SW
WI N OS ANO CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACI FIC
monsoon in the western part of the Pacific Ocean.
In the China Sea the winds are predominantly S <.'
and SW, whereas towards Japan they· are either S
or SE. The area affected by the SW monsoon is gen-
erally situated west of the 140 'E meridian and
south of latitude 40 'N. Steady SW winds are expe-
rienced in the China Sea during July, but further
north the monsoon is felt less and less and .v ariable
winds become increasingly common. The weath-
er during the SW monsoon is often unsettled and
there is a high frequency of squalls, in which the
wind reaches gale force.
197
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC
Variables
The two monsoons and the NE trade winds are
replaced on the polar side of the North Pacific by
a belt of variable winds. Although it corresponds
to the Horse Latitudes of the Atlantic Ocean, the
variable belt of the North Pacific is much narrow-
er and rare!y exceeds 300 miles in width. The vari-
able zone is influenced by the position of the high
II pressure area, which moves north in summer, when
light and variable winds can be expected between
I latitudes 35'N and 40'N. The high moves south in
summer, when it stretches from about 25'N to 30'N.
I The movement of air around the North Pacific high
has a direct bearing on the winds of the variable
I zone. In the eastern half of the ocean, winds tend
to be northerly in summer and merge with the NE
trades. In the western part of the ocean, the direc-
tion of the winds is more southerly so that they
form an extension of the SW monsoon.
Westerlies
The zone of variable winds is gradually replaced
by an area of prevailing westerlies north c: about
latitude 35 'N. These are not so boisterous as the
westerlies of the Southern Ocean and the northern
limit of the variables is more difficult to define.
Westerly winds are more reliable both in direction
and strength during the winter months, but this is
hardly the time when anyone would consider cruis-
ing in the higher latitudes of the North Pacific,
where the weather is very rough. In summer the
weather is more benign, when fewer depressions
race across the North Pacific between Japan and
Alaska. The best weather can be expected in July,
when light to moderate westerly winds predomi-
nate north of latitude 40'N.
Tropical storms
There are two areas of the North Pacific Ocean that
are subject to tropical revolving storms: the
typhoons of the Far East and the hurricanes of the
eastern part of the North Pacific.
The region affected by hurricanes lies in the
vicinity of the American coast, south of latitude
30'N to about latitude lO"N and west to longitude
14o·w . This area includes the Pacific coasts of
\ ' Mexico and Central America and extends as far off-
shore as longitude 140'W, an aspect that must be
I borne in mind by those planning to cross this area
during the dangerous season. Theoretically the
I
I , 19s
hurricane season lasts from May to November,
although most hurricanes have been recorded
between June and October, the month with the
highest frequency being September. The only four
months considered to be safe are January to April,
as hurricanes have occurred in December on a few
occasions. As a general rule only the earlier hur-
ricanes travel to the western lirnif; whereas later in
the season hurricanes are more likely to stay close
to the coast. Therefore if a passage through this area
is undertaken towards the end of the hurricane sea-
son, it is advisable to move offshore as quickly as
possible.
The region affected by typhoons covers a much
larger area stretching all the way from the Caroline
Islands to Japan. To the east the area is bounded by
Guam and the Mariana Islands, to the west by the
Philippines, Taiwan and the northern part of the
South China Sea. The typhoon season is less well
defined than the hurricanes of the Eastern Pacific
and no month can be regarded as completely safe.
However, most typhoons occur between May and
December, and during this period over half the
typhoons have been recorded between July and
October. September is the most dangerous month,
with an average of over four typhoons. The peri-
od with the least likelihood of typhoons is January
to April. As no typhoons have been recorded from
December to April in the area between the north-
ern part of the China Sea and the western side of
the Eastern Sea, this is considered to be the safest
time for passages to and from Japan, although this
coincides with the winter weather.
Currents
The surface circulation of the North Pacific Ocean
resembles a huge merry-go-round in which vari-
ous currents move in a clockwise direction around
a cell located slightly offcentre in the northern
hemisphere. The main spring of this circular move-
ment is the North Equatorial Current which flows
westward with its axis at about latitude 12'N. To
the south of this current is the eastward flowing
Equatorial Countercurrent, which has its southern
limits between latitudes 2'N and 4 'N where it is
bounded by the South Equatorial Current.
The North Equatorial Current is fed mainly by
the California Current and the northern branch of
the Equatorial Countercurrent. Further west it is
reinforced by the North Pacific Current and further
still it divides in two, the southern branch revers-

ing its direction to become the Equatorial
Countercurrent, while the northern branch carries
on towards Taiwan and Japan. This is the main
source of the Kuro Shio, a flow of warm water sim-
ilar to the Gulf Stream of the North Atlantic. The
main difference is that the direction of the Kuro
Shio is seasonal, setting to the NE during the SW
monsoon, but reversing its direction in winter, at
the height of the NE monsoon.
The main direction of the Kuro Shio is NE along
the southern coast of Japan. It subsequently fans
out in about latitude35"N to form the North Pacific
Current. This current, reinforced by the Aleutian
Current, flows in a broad band across the North
Pacific towards America. East of latitude 160"E this
current starts fanning out, part of it turning south,
while the main body continues eastwards towards
the North American continent where it turns SE.
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC
This southerly drift changes its name to the
Californ'ia Current which flows into the North
Equatorial Current thus completing the clockwise
circulation round the North Pacific basin.
The surface circulation along the Pacific coast of
Central America and Gulf of Panama is more errat-
ic, with great seasonal variations that make pre-
dictions impossible. The Equatorial Countercurrent
flows into this area and normally is deflected to the
north west along the coast of Central America to
join the California Current and eventually the
North Equatorial Current. In the first months of the
year a branch of the Equatorial Countercurrent
turns south and flows into the South Pacific. In the
Gulf of Panama the movement of water is more
complicated, with an inflow of water at both
extremes and an outflow in the centre that finally
joins the South Equatorial Current.
I
I·
ii
I
I
'II
199
 10
ROUTES IN THE ,.,
NORTH PACIFIC
Ilyonninspite of the great concentration of sailing boats
the west coast of North America, particular-
California, the number of offshore routes in
the North Pacific is relatively small. By far the most
popular offshore destination is Hawaii; otherwise
cruising boats from the US or Canada looking for
an offshore challenge have to sail either to the
South Pacific or down the coast of Mexico to the Sea
of Cortez and beyond to Central America. One
cruising destination which is gaining in popular-
ity is Alaska, which is usually reached by
Californian boats via Hawaii. In spite of the longer
distances involved, a detour ·via Hawaii has the
attraction of better winds, as a direct route from
California or the Pacific Northwest would have
contrary winds all the way. For the sake of sim-
plicity, the west coast of North America has been
divided into two large groups, with routes starting
from either California or the Pacific Northwest, the
latter including British Columbia.
Because of the paucity of offshore destinations,
most cruising is coastal. Inshore passages along the
coast of California and beyond are therefore
beyond the scope of this book. However, because
PN10 ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST
OF NORTH AMERICA
PNll California to Hawaii
PN12 Southbound from California
PN13 Northbound from California
PN14 California to British Columbia
PN15 Alaska to British Columbia
.PN16 British ColUmbia to California
PN17 Pacific Northwest to Hawaii
200
of the strength of the prevailing winds many peo-
ple who might prefer to sail offshore are forced to
choose the inshore tactic. The one point to remem-
ber by those heading north is to keep moving and
make the best of calm weather, which rarely lasts
long. It is also worth remembering that November
has the lighter winds, especially along the coast of
Baja California, whereas May, the other month
when many boats make their way along this coast,
has stronger winds. In conclusion, it is better to use
November to move in both directions, and to avoid
May if at all possible for the northbound passages.
The islands of Micronesia are yet to be discov-
ered as a major cruising ground and the relative-
ly small number of boats visiting them does not
bear comparison with the continuing popularity of
the South Pacific. A few of those cruising the lat-
ter eventually cross the equator, usually on their
way to the Far East. On the whole, however, very
few boats are seen cruising the countries of the Far
East either. The situation may change in the future,
as the number of locally owned boats is steadily
increasing.
202
203
204
204
205
20.6
207
 PN10 ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA
_.... ~o ·
ALEUTIAN
ISLANDS
40°N
20'N I>""'
HAWAll !P
o•
160' W 140' W
PNlO Routes from the west coast of North America
The Pacific coast of North America is a more hos-
tile area than its Atlantic counterpart, the weath-
er is harsher, there are fewer all-weather harbours,
and the chilly California Current is exactly the
opposite to the warm Gulf Stream. The coast, in
particular the Pacific Northwest, is therefore a real
challenge, not only for the sailors setting off from
that area, but also for those, undaunted by its rep-
utation, who have decided to visit this beautiful
region. The Pacific Northwest has indeed a well
earned reputation for gales, rain, and poor visi-
bility. The prevailing winds are either from the
northwest or less frequently from the southeast. In
summer, from May to September, northwest
winds predominate, although some northeast
winds also occur. In winter, as well as the prevail-
ing northwesterlies, southeast winds, often of gale
force, are more common. Further south, the hur-
Clipperton '
D
120'W ioo•w GALAPAGOS
ricane season is from June to October, when the
tropical areas should be avoided. Mexico and Baja
California are hit by an average of six hurricanes
every year, so this part of Mexico should be a void-
ed during summer and early autumn. 11
The premier destination for any0ne contem- I
plating an offshore cruise from California, the '!
Pacific Torthwest or British Columbia is undoubt-
edly Hawaii. For those who Jack the time for a
longer cruise to the South Pacific, Hawaii offers the
chance of a Polynesian landfall which can be
reached during an extended summer vacation. For
those who do not wish to return straight away,
Hawaii is an excellent springboard for voyages
west, to Micronesia and the Far East, or south, to
Tahiti and the rest of Polynesia. ·
The major meteorological feature affecting
routes between the mainland and Hawaii is the
201
 ROUTES JN THE NORTH PA C I FIC
orth Pacific high. In summer it reaches its most
northwesterly position in about 38 'N, 150"W, while
in winter it moves southeast to approximately
3o·N, 130"W. The high is particularly stable
between June and August, which is the best time
for return passages to the mainland, although one
I should stay north of the tropics to avoid any hur-
I ricane forming farther south.
j Those who are heading south from California
bound for some distant destination, be it Panama,
I. Galapagos, Marquesas, or Tahiti, are faced with two
choices: either to head offshore and sail direct, or
l
hug the coast and cruise in shorter stages. Both
alternatives have certain ad vantages, but as this
book deals with ocean routes only, the second alter-
native will not be dealt with in detail. Some people
have successfully combined these two alternatives
PNll California to Hawaii
This route enjoys favourable winds throughout the
year, although few boats attempt to make the pas-
sage in winter, both on account of the cold and the
high proportion of strong winds. On the other
hand, summer months carry the risk of tropical
storms, August and September being considered
the most dangerous months. Although very few of
these storms reach as far west as Hawaii, their
tracks sometimes swing to the NW and thereby
cross the sailing routes from the mainland. Between
the two extremes, the threat of winter gales or sum-
202
by cruising along the coast for some distance and
then setting off for distant destinations either from
Mexico or Costa Rica. This has the ad'(antage of
shaking down both boat and crew while still with-
in a short distance of stateside facilities.
The ad vantage of an offshore passage south from
California is that the prevailing NW, winds will put
the boat on a broad reach or run; as soon as the
coast has been safely left behind. Because of the
dependability of these prevailing winds, it is prefer-
able to wait for a period of settled weather with a
long term forecast of Nor NW winds before setting
off on a long passage. Regardless of the final des-
tination it is advisable to head offshore immediately
on leaving the coast, as winds tend to be steadier
about one hundred miles from the mainland.
mer hmricanes, there are some months when sail-
ing conditions along this route can be perfect, May
and November fulfilling most of these criteria.
Good weather can also be found in April, although
an early start is usually associated with colder tem-
peratures. Even when the winds are fair, the sky is
sometimes overcast making life difficult for those
who are keen to try their hand at celestial naviga-
tion on this long offshore passage.
The winds for the first few hund red miles are N
or NW becoming NE and finally E closer to Hawaii.
 PNlO ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA
As the great circle route goes too far north it may
be better to sail a rhumb line. However, this will
depend on the position of the Nor th Pacific high
and the extent of the NE trades, the northern limit
of which moves in relation to the high. If it is felt
that the course may pass too close to the position
of the high, it is better to detour slighly to the south
into an area with less pressure than towards the
centre of the high.
Boats leaving from Los Angeles take their
departure at WP PN111, from where the route goes
south of the great circle course to WP PN112. From
there, the route runs through WPs PN113 and
PN114 before the course can be altered for the
Hawaiian port of destination. Boats starting from
San Francisco should follow the same advice and
set a course which will take them sooner into the
area of NE trade winds. From WP PN115, off the
PN12 Southbound from California
The best time to make this passage is during the
winter months, when the prevailing winds off the
Mexican coast are northerly. There is a favourable
current along the coast of Mexico, but a contrary
current further south along the coast of Central
America. Boats sailing nonstop along this route
should stay at least 100 miles off the coast to avoid
main shipping channel, the course should be set for
WP PN112 and thence along a similar route as the
one recommended for boats leaving from Los
Angeles. The above intermediate points are only
guidelines and the actual route should be dictated
by the weather conditions prevailing at the time.
When making landfall, because of increased
wind strengths in channels separating the
Hawaiian islands, it is usually better to gain the lee
of the islands rather than approach them from
windward. The best landfall in Hawaii for boats
arriving from the continent is Hilo, as it is to wind-
ward of all other ports in the archipelago and there-
fore a perfect starting point for a cruise among the
islands. Honolulu (2118'N, 157"52'W), because of
its position, is better left for the end of a Hawaiian
cruise.
the influence of land breezes and also the many
ships that ply the coast closer inshore. The route
runs parallel to the coast of Central America and
gradually curves in to enter the Gulf of Panama at
Cabo Mala.
Taking its leave of the USA at WP PN121 , south
of San Diego, the route runs parallel to the coast of
203
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC
Baja California to WPs PN122, PN123, and PN124.
.The course is then altered at WP PN125 to WP
PN126 before entering the Gulf of Panama at WP
PN127 off Cabe Mala in the approaches to the
Panama Canal. Boats intending to transit the Canal
should go straight to the Balboa Yacht Club. See
page 489 for further instructions.
The other alternative, favoured by many, is to sail
the entire distance in easy stages by calling at the
different ports en route. If this option is chosen,
PN13 Northbound from California
Northbound passages from California are difficult
to plan as it is quite rare that one can be certain of
favourable winds. Therefore most people plan their
cruise to include as many coastal stops as possible.
In this way it is possible to take advaniage of early
morning breezes. One suggestion for an easier pas-
sage north is to leave in April with one of the last
southerly gales. At this time of year they are usu-
ally milder than those of the winter months.
Although it may be tempting to rid e one of these
storms, one should be very careful when running
along the coast before such a storm as most ports
are on a dangerous lee shore.
PN14 California to British Columbia
more attention should be paid to local weather con-
ditions, particularly during the winter months
January to March when very strong winds occur in
the gulfs of Tehuantepec and Papagayo. These are
described in detail in PN20 (page 207). The
inshore route is not recommended during the sum-
mer, when there is a risk of hurricanes in the area
and the winds are less consistent, with lo~g peri-
ods of calms. More details on destinations in
Central America are given in route PN27 (page 215).
During the summer one has to be prepared for
a lot of beating, often into strong winds. If one is
planning to motor it is usually better to do this at
night when the winds are lighter. Especially
along the north coast of California the trip can be
very tough because of the strong northerly winds
which blow throughout the summer. However,
those who have time to make the best of the
adverse weather will be rewarded for their efforts.
The coast of Northern California is replete with
beautiful harbours providing shelter from the pre-
vailing summer winds. Among them Tamales Bay
and Mendocino should not be missed.
 PN10 ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA
ITES

Both in winter and summer NW winds predomlnate such a relatively direct route can be sailed will
· arly
along the North American coast, which makes a depend entirely on the windward performance of
;e is
direct offshore passage very difficult if not impos- the boat. The recommended landfall is off Cape ',ast-
sible. There are various ways of dealing with these Flattery, in the approaches to Juan de Fuca Strait.
: the
headwinds and the most radical suggestion is that Extreme caution is necessa ry in the approaches
;e of
the coast should be left immediately on a route head- to the Juan de Fuca Strait because of heavy ship- '?av-
ing offshore for about 200 miles before it turns north. ping and strong currents. Shipping separation 1
:iso
The most favourable tack should then be taken until zones are in operation, with the southern lane being
ude
the latitude of the port of destination is reached. A used by arriving ships and the northern lane . will
new course can then be set to approach the coast on reserved for outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at
will
the tack that would put the boat to windward of the designated points so as to allow ships to turn either .·nee
destination. An inshore route can also be followed north towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. ; ·ays
by sailing in shorter hops along the coast and going To complicate matters, there is often a large num- 'the
into a port for shelter as soon as the weather ber of fishing boats around the Swiftsure Bank, east age
becomes threatening. Yet another alternative is to try of the entrance to the strait. Traffic in the area is late
and sail parallel to the coast about 30 mlles offshore controlled by Tofino Radio (VHF channels 16 and ore
so as to be within range of VHF weather broadcasts 74). Incoming vessels are requested to report when ind
and shelter if necessary. In case of choosing one of due south of Amphitrite Point. The station operates 3 'E
the inshore alternatives, great care must be paid not a regular roll call, every ship reporting their posi- : .JW
only to the weather but also the difficulty of cross- tion, speed, and course. In bad visibility the station . ide
ing river bars or entering some of the harbours if the will advise ships that are in the vicinity of a small ··the
winds blow onshore. If the offshore alternative is boat's position. The station will also assist yachts
chosen, from Reyes Point an initial course should be with directions and may even track such vessels on I
.ffi -
sailed to a point about 200 miles offshore. Whether radar. ·"ble
·: 1gh
PN15 Alaska to British Columbia
j i:~
I Of

;he
. ' ~ly
'·

The winds in the Gulf of Alaska are variable in
direction during the summer months, with a slight
predominance of westerly winds. Later in the sea-
son, SE winds are not uncommon making east-
bound passages across the Gulf difficult. Also
contrary is the Aleutian Current, which sets west-
ward across the Gulf. Fog can be another hazard
during the crossing, but gales are rare in summer.
Prince Rupert harbour, where entry formalities into
Canada can be completed, is reached through
Dixon Strait, between Prince of Wales and Graham
Islands.

205 19
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

Because the sailing season in Alaska is so brief,
most people are in a hurry when the time comes to
move south. Although a faster passage can be made
on an offshore route, few people choose to miss the
unsurpassed beauty of the inshore route that
threads its way past countless islets and inlets
I along British Columbia's fragmented coast. A rec-
ommended alternative is to cruise the area in
I reverse order by sailing from British Columbia to
Alaska in short stages, cross the Gulf of Alaska in
r summer and sail back to British Columbia at the
end of the summer cruising season. The sailing sea-
I son is very short and lasts from May to the middle
of September. In July, the North Pacific high may
i reach as far as the Prince William Sound, ensuring
light winds and pleasant weather.
11
Boats setting off on the offshore route from either
Dutch Harbour or Kodiak should sail due south for
200-300 miles to avoid the area affected by the lows
tracking across the Pacific and then pick up the
direct course with the help of the prevailing west-
erlies. Boats leaving from Kodiak, from WP PN151
should set a course for WP PN152. From there the
course can be altered to reach Victoria by going
south of Vancouver Island throug'h the Juan de
Fuca Strait, making landfall off Cape Flattery at WP
PN153. An alternative is to approach Vancouver
Island through Queen Charlotte Sound by making
landfall north of Cape Scott at WP PN154. Similar
directions apply for those leaving from Dutch
Harbour on Unalaska Island. From WP PNISS the
initial course leads to WP PN156 before the
course is altered for one of the landfalls suggest-
ed above.

Ii PN16 British Columbia to California

11

II
11

I
11

I
I
I
I Winds along this route are always favourable and
the south-setting California Current provides an
added bonus. The offshore route is to be preferred
11
for most southbound passages and, once chosen,
I one should stay at least 100 miles off the coast.
Because of the pressure gradient between the off-
shore high and the continental low pressure sys-
tem, winds tend to be stronger and seas higher
more than 60 miles from land than closer inshore.
However, because of the drawbacks of the inshore
route, which are described below, the offshore route
is to be preferred. From WP PN161, off Cape
Flattery, the initial course goes to WP PN162. From
there the route goes due south to the latitude of
Cape Mendacino before the course is altered at WP
PN163 for the port of destination. If the destination
is San.Francisco, landfall is made at WP PN164 off
Reyes Point, from where Bonita Channel leads into
San Francisco Bay.
Because of the stronger winds and bigger swell
further offshore, some people prefer th e inshore
route. This is an attractive alternative when sailing
in the other direction, but is less attractive to south-
bound boats determined to cover the distance in
the shortest time possible. Because several harbours
have bars and are difficult or dangerous to enter
when there is a heavy swell, extreme caution is
needed if sailing the inshore route. Another haz-
ard along this coast is fog, which often reduces vis-
ibility drastically and can be extremely dangerous
because of the high amount of shipping.

206
 PN10 ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA
PN17 Pacific Northwest to Hawaii
Good weather conditions prevail throughout the
summer months, but in order to avoid the hurri-
cane season, the passage should be planned for late
spring or early summer. Although the route cross-
es an area where tropical cyclones have occurred
in the past, the danger of encountering such a storm
at the recommended time is fairly remote.
However, weather forecasts should be listened to
regularly during the summer to avoid any tropical
storms which may be heading that way. To avoid
westerly winds or straying into the North Pacific
high at the beginning of the voyage, setting a direct
course to Hawaii on departure is not recom-
mended. Better conditions will be found by taking
a southerly course, which will benefit both from
northerly winds and the favourable current. It is
generally recommended that the course should not
PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM
CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO
PN21 Panama to Central America and Mexico
PN22 Central America and Mexico to California
PN23 Panama to British Columbia
PN24 Panama to Alaska
PN25 Panama to Hawaii
PN26 Central America and Mexico to Hawaii
PN27 Central America and Mexico to Panama
For boats which have transited the Panama Canal
there is a rather limited choice of routes heading out
into the Pacific. Basically, there are two options:
be altered for Hawaii until the latitude of San
Francisco is reached. Although a great circle
route can be taken to Hawaii from about 40'N, it
is usually better to stay slightly south of the rhumb
line. The NE trades will be met somewhere
between latitudes 28" and 30 "N, from where the
winds should remain favourable all the way to
Hawaii.
Leaving from WP PN171 the route passes
through two intermediate waypoints PN172 and
PN173 before the course can be altered for the
Hawaiian port of destination. For boats arriving
from the NE the most convenjent port of entry is
HHo on Hawaii Island. Landfall can be made at WP
PN174 NE of the Big Island and some five miles
from Hilo itself.
209
210
212
213
214
215
215
either to stay in the North Pacific, where there is a
narrow range of initial destinations, or to head
towards the South Pacific, where the choices mul-
207
 . ..
; · :;:;· :,.";·..;::.-._...~- . -.-•.--..-- ~-· --·

ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

tiply constantly as one moves west. Similarly a con-
siderable proportion of offshore routes from Central
America are also southbound and transequatorial.
These transequatorial routes and routes in the South
Pacific are described in chapters 11 and 13.
Sailing directly from Panama to the west coast of
North America is a difficult undertaking. An alter-
native preferred by many as the best way to reach
California, and especially ports further north, is to
sail first to Hawaii. Panama is a good starting point
for sailing to ports on the west coast of Central
America and as the distances involved are rela-
tively short, even if unfavourable conditions are
encountered at least they do not have to be endured
for too long. Because the hurricane season affects
most of this area between June and October, sail-
ing to Mexico or California during these months
should be avoided. Therefore if heading north from
Panama it is best to plan to transit the Canal
between November and April, so as to avoid the
danger of being caught by a hurricane off the coast
of Central America.
Before sailing out of the Gulf of Panama, some
boats stop at the Las Perlas Islands, which have
some excellent anchorages. They belong to Panama
and one is not allowed to stop there after having
cleared out in Balboa, without having obtained a
cruising permit.
The most popular route leaving from Panama is
that to the Galapagos Islands (route PT12). Most
boats bound for the South Pacific take advantage
of the conveniently placed Galapagos Islands to
make at least a brief stop in these islands made
famous by Charles Darwin. It is no longer per-
mitted to cruise around the islands, which are a
protected nature reserve, but a 72 hour stop can be

_v L>
0-
ALEUTIAN
ISLANDS

40°N

/) ,, \;o
20' N
HAWAII [)>

160°W 140' W 120°W

PN20 Pacific routes from Central America and Mexico

208
 PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO
·made a t the d iscretion of the port captain at either
of the two ports of entry, Baquerizo Moreno (Wreck
Bay) on San Cristobal Island and Puerto Ayora
(Academy Bay) on Santa Cruz Island. Because of
these restrictions, some boats avoid the Galapagos
Islands altogether and head straight for the
Marquesas and French Polynesia (PT13).
Those who want to visit ports along the west
coast of South America are faced with a tough voy-
age against wind and current (PT 11 ). A few boats
make this trip every year showing that, in spite of
all difficulties, it can be done. The alternative is to
postpone visiting South America until one is far-
ther west in the Pacific when Chile can be easier
reached with the help of favourable westerly winds
of higher latitudes. However, this is a long and
tough trip which may be less attractive than a beat
against the Humboldt current. The major attraction
of such a foray down the coast of South America
is the opportunity to visit Ecuador and Peru as well
as some rarely frequented islands such as Easter,
Pitcairn or Gambier.
Apart from the occasional norther, rare wester-
ly, or summer hurricane, the west coasts of
Central America could be described as having a
truly Pacific weather with little wind and smooth
PN21 Panama to Central America and Mexico
Northbound passages to ports on the Pacific coast
of Central America are always difficult due either
to contrary winds or prolonged periods of calms.
Although a favourable current can be expected as
far as the Gulf of Fonseca, from there onwards the
current is mostly contrary. One should be prepared
to take advantage of every shift of wind and also
to use the engine when necessary in order to
counter the unfavourable current. The area is prone
to thunderstorms with intense lightning.
Because of these factors, most people prefer to
treat this route as a coastal hopping exercise. Stops
can be made in all Central American countries,
seas. Local conditions along the coast do vary very
much with the topography of the land . Two local
weather phenomena, which affect particularly the
inshore routes, are the very strong winds which
take their name from the gulfs where they occur,
Papagayo and Tehuantepec. The worst period is
from October to April, with the highest frequency
between the end of November and the end of
January. The effect of these winds can be felt as far
as 150 miles offshore.
Papagayos are caused by an intensification of the
NE trade winds on the Caribbean side of the isth-
mus. The winds reach the Pacific through a gap in
the Cordillera where they blow with great force.
Further north, the Tehuantepecers are caused by a
build up of atmospheric pressure over the Gulf of
Mexico, the resulting winds blowing over the con-
tinental divide and being felt most strongly in the
Gulf of Tehuantepec. Both winds reach gale force
8 and even 9, and are very difficult to predict local-
ly. However, by following weather forecasts for the
Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean area it is usually pos-
sible to predict when changes in weather condi-
tions on the Atlantic side of Central America or
Mexico will affect its Pacific shores.
Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador,
Guatemala, an!f there are several attractive cruis-
ing areas on the way. The reception extended to vis-
iting yachts by the various Central American
countries depends very much on the political sit-
uation at the time, and occasionally also on the
nationality of the yacht in question.
One of the most attractive stops on the coast is
Golfito, in Costa Rica (8 "36'N, 83°12'W). In
Nicaragua the ports of Corin to (12 '28'N, 87"11 'W)
and San Juan del Sur (11 "lS'N, 85 "53'W) have
attracted mixed comments, while the Honduran
port of San Lorenzo (13 '25'N, 87"27'W) has been
209
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PAC!FIC
recommended as an emergency stop. ln El Salvador
the situation has improved dramatically with the
cessation of hostilities and a good place to stop is
Acajutla (13"36'N, 89"50'W), which is one of El
Salvador's official ports of entry, the other being
Cutuco (1319'N, 87°49'W). On entering the Gulf of
Fonseca, the Salvadorean Coast Guard should be
contacted on VHF channel 16. Stopping at one of
the ports on the Pacific coast of Guatemala has lit-
tle attraction, but beyond that stretches the long
coast of Mexico, its main cruising attraction being
located in its northern part - Baja California and the
Sea of Cortez.
Detailed directions for this inshore route, which
PN22 Central America and Mexico to California
210
consists mostly of coastal cruising, are beyond the
scope of this book. However, attention must be
drawn to the two areas where the weather can seri-
ously affect the inshore route. These are the gulfs
of Tehuantepec and Papagayo, where the strong
local winds described in the introduction to this
section can occur. Both north and southbound
inshore passages should attempt~ transit the Gulf
of Tehauntepec at the change of seasons, either
around the middle of May or early in November.
January and February are the months to avoid
because of the high frequency of these gale force
winds.
 PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO
WAYl?Dll•ffS:
Departure
For boats leaving from Panama, this can be a long
and arduous trip. For this reason it has been sug-
gested that it is easier to sail from Panama to
Hawaii and thence to the west coast of North
America, rather than direct to California, especially
for those who like long offshore passages and are
not pressed for time. If a detour to Hawaii is con-
sidered, details for that passage are given in route
PN25.
A nonstop passage from Panama to California
should be undertaken well offshore where better
winds can be expected, even if a longer distance has
to be covered. After leaving the Gulf of Panama,
one should attempt to reach the SE trade wind area
as soon as possible to take full advantage of both
the SE winds and favourable current. From June to
January, the recommended route PN22A runs
between the Galapagos Islands and latitude 5'N as
far as meridian 105 'W. At WP PN222 the course is
altered to pass west of Clipperton Island at WP
PN223. For southern Californian ports (Los
Angeles, San Diego) the most favourable tack
should be taken after WP PN224 has been passed.
After picking up the NE trade winds and if the des-
tination is San Francisco, course is altered for WP
PN225 from where the course sailed depends
entirely on the winds that are encountered.
From February to May after leaving the Gulf of
Panama the recommended route (AN22B) passes
south of the Galapagos Islands. It then heads west
as far as WP PN226 and then to WP PN227 before
altering course to the NW into the NE trade wind
zone. However, if winds are favourable after pass-
ing Cabo Mala, a more direct route can be sailed to
California. The initial course on this route (PN 22C)
runs parallel to the coast of Central America as far
as Costa Rica, keeping only about 20 miles off the
coast. From northern Costa Rica at WP PN2210, the
route heads due west for about 1000 miles to WP
PN2211, just north of Clipperton Island. The route
then runs parallel to the mainland coast in a NW
direction gradually curving towards the port of
,,
destination by using the existing winds to best 1:.,
advantage. If taking this route one must be pre- .:J
pared to motorsail when necessary, especially dur-
,ing the first leg from Panama northwards. This
route is often preferred by delivery skippers, who
recommend its use particularly during the first
months of the year.
Another alternative is to stay relatively close to
the coast all the way, the advantage oflhis course
of action being that one can find shelter in some of
the ports en route such as Puerto Madero or Salina
Cruz. The first part of this coastal route is
described in PN21. Two local weather phenomena
must be taken into account if taking this inshore
route during winter and they are the strong winds
in the gulfs of Papagayo and Tehuantepec. The
worst period is from October to April, with the
highest frequency between the end of November
and the end of January. The effect of the winds can
be felt as much as 150 miles offshore. The advice
211
 &&
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC
given by captains of boats plying this coast regu-
larly is to stay as close inshore as safety will per-
mjt. There are several ports en route where shelter
can be sought, although by sailing close to the shore
one should be able to handle even the strongest
winds.
When sailing north from Panama one should plan
to be north of Cabo San Lucas by 1st June, especially
as some insurance companies make this provision
in their policies in view of the hurricane season in
Central America. This consideration, coupled with
weather conditions in the Caribbean, make it advis-
able to plan on transiting the Panama Canal early
in the year, so as to have plenty of time either to
reach the west coast before the onset of the hurri-
cane season or to make alternative arrangements.
The northbound routes from Mexico are never
easy, but if the weather is watched carefully, the
occasional window will provide favourable con-
ditions. Often in November, and occasionally
PN23 Panama to British Columbia
Directions for this route are similar to those for
route PN22 and in fact skippers are faced with
exactly the same dilemma whether they intend to
sail from Panama to California or all the way to
British Columbia. The choice is between a relatively
direct route along the coast of Central America, an
indirect offshore route or a grand detour via
Hawaii. If the prospect of such a long detour via
Hawaii is not acceptable, the choice is between the
212
l
i
December, the approach of a cold front in the North
Pacific will stop the prevailing NW winds and
bring calms or light winds. fn late spring, when
there are strong head winds offshore, close inshore
it is often possible to make good progress with the
help of the diurnal land and sea breezes. The rec-
ommended tactic is to stay near the shore during
the calm night and morning hours, and then tack
offshore in the afternoon. Being close to shore, it is
then possible to find an anchorage when conditions
are not favourable.
Boats taking the offshore route from Panama or
Costa Rica can break the trip at offshore islands,
such as Cocos Island (5"30'N, 87'00'W), 285 miles
off Costa Rica. The island is a nature reserve and
has some resident wardens, but boats are allowed
to stop. Even more remote is the French possession,
Cllpperton Island (10 '17'N, 109'15'W), which is
uninhabited, although occasionally it is visited by
meteorologists and other scientists.
other two routes, both of which have advantages
and also some serious disadvantages. The choice
of route should depend primarily on the windward
performance of the boat itself as much of the voy-
age will be hard on the wind, and for this reason
those who are not prepared to face a beat of several
thousand miles, or whose boat may not be up to the
challenge, should perhaps reconsider their plans.
The offshore route (PN23A) offers a greater cer-
 PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO
tainty of favourable winds for the first half of the
voyage but then becomes a hard beat against the
prevailing winds. The route that runs parallel to the
coast (PN23B) is shorter but depends more on the
use of the engine. In both cases the final leg north
of latitude 30'N may prove to be the toughest
because of the high proportion of N and NW winds
during the summer months. No waypoints are given
for the second route as the best way to go should be
decided by the weather conditions at the time.
If route PN23A is sailed in April or May, from
WP PN232, off Coiba Island, the shortest route
should be sailed to WP PN233. From there, the
route continues due north following as closely as
possible meridian 130'W before the course is
PN24 Panama to Alaska
A detour via Hawaii (see route PN25) has certain
advantages over a nonstop passage to Alaska, espe-
cially between September and March when it
would be either too late or too early to head for
Alaska. From April to August the more direct route
should be considered, the best month for a north-
bound passage probably being May as it means
arriving in Alaska at the beginning of the summer
sailing season. This also means that the area affect-
ed by tropical storms will have been sailed
through during the safe season.
Directions as far as latitude 30 'N are similar to
altered for the coast. Much will depend on the posi-
tion of the North Pacific high, and one may either
have to go further ·west to avoid it altogether, or
power through it, if one is so inclined. In the first
instance, depending on the season, it may be nec-
essary to go as far north as latitude 43 'N before
turning towards the coast of British Columbia (see
also route PN32, page 219). If the passage is under-
taken in November, the time of arrival in British
Columbia will be so late that one should consider
spending the winter in Hawaii. At that time of year,
a great circle route can be sailed from Panama to
Hawaii and one can count on both favourable
winds and current for almost the entire distance.
those given for route PN23. A first recommended
intermediate waypoint is PN243, but whether one
can sail a direct course for this point will depend
entirely on the performance of the boat, as much
of the passage will be close on the wind. From
PN243 a new course is set for WP PN244, from
where the route should arc northwards by trying
to keep west of the North Pacific high. North of lat-
itude 40 'N favourable winds can be expected for
most of the way, as above 40'N an average of 70 per
cent of the winds are from between 5 and W. The
weather gets increasingly cold as higher latitudes
213
 r ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

I are reached and north of latitude 40'N there is also

a high proportion of fog.
PN245, southeast of Kodiak Island. From that point
the route runs along the east coast of that island to
From WP PN244 the best course is sailed for WP WP PN246 from where it enters Kodiak Harbour.
i
I PN25 Panama to H'°;;waii
I
I
I
I
I
.1
I
I
i
I

:1'[.I
I
I
The painful dilemma faced by all those who plan to
I sail from Panama to Hawaii is whether to follow the
traditional sailing route and make a detour of some
I 1000 miles or take the great circle route and hope for
the best. The great circle route skirts an area of calms
I and light winds between longitudes 80'W and
110'W, which can be avoided by following the direc-
I tions given to the masters of sailing ships who were
advised to always try and make their westing with
I the help of the SE trade winds (route PN25A). This
means sailing south of latitude 5 'N until meridian
I UO'W is crossed and then take the great circle route
from WP PN252 to Hawaii. This southerly route is
I strongly recommended during the hurricane season
(June to October), when the great circle route from
Panama.passes through an area of tropical storms
west of Mexico. Boats sailing this longer route and
leaving Panama at WP PN250 should stay west of
Las Perlas Islands and continue south to WP PN251 .
From there a course is set fo.r WP PN252 by sailing
north of the Galapagos Islands to take advantage of
both favourable wind and current. From WP
PN252 the great circle course can be joined to
Hawaii.
From February to May after leaving the Gulf of
Panama the recommended route (PN25B) heads
south and passes south of the Galapagos Islands.
Westing is made close to the equator, to take full
advantage of the prevailing SE winds and
favourable current. From WP PN255, the great cir-
cle course is joined for Hawaii.
For the rest of the year, between November and
February, the direct route from Panama (PN25C) is
to be preferred as it takes less time to reach the NE

214
 PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA ANO MEXICO
trade wind belt, which extends further south in win-
ter. If the passage is undertaken in November,
favourable winds and current can be expected for
almost the entire distance. Having left the Gull of
Panama, from WP PN256, a great circle course can
be set for WP PN257, off Cape Kumuhaki, at the
eastern extremity of Hawaii Island. A convenient
PN26 Central America and Mexico to Hawaii
Tropical storms affect this route throughout the
summer, although boats leaving from Mexico are
at greater risk than those setting off from Costa
Rica, where the route can be easily shaped to stay
south of the danger area. Mainly because of the
threat of these storms, most passages on this route
are made either before June or after October. At all
times it is essential to move offshore as quickly as
possible to escape the influence of the land and find
the prevailing NE trades. In April and early May,
the weather in the vicinity of the coast is often
PN27 Central America and Mexico to Panama
port of entry, for boats arriving from the east, is Hilo.
For those who prefer to break up this passage
into shorter stages, it is possible to sail first to Costa
Rica, either in one offshore leg, or in short hops
along the coast. From there similar directions apply
for the rest of the voyage to Hawaii as for route
PN26.
unsettled, with thunderstorms and variable winds.
The winds offshore are very steady during the early
summer, especially west of longitude 120'W. In
November and December the trade winds are
much stronger and there is often a big swell, the
result of gales further north.
A direct course can be normally sailed at the rec-
ommended times. Landfall will be made at WP
PN263, off Cape Kumuhaki, at the eastern extrem-
ity of Hawaii Island. A convenient port of entry is
Hilo, on the east coast of that same island.
215
 """- .,... -----··- -- -- - -

ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

I
I
Because of the lack of protected harbours in
J Guatemala and the political situation in El Salvador
I and Nicaragua, until recently most boats preferred
to sail nonstop from Mexico to Costa Rica. In spring
J and autumn, the winds are often light and there are
frequent calms. The situation is very different in
I winter, when gale force winds make the crossing
of the gulfs of Tehuantepec and Papagayo a daunt-
J
ing experience. When sailing relatively dose to the
JI coast, the strong NW setting current has caused
problems for those dosing with the coast thinking
JI that they were already in Costa Rican waters but
JI were in fact still in Nicaragua. The topography
along the south coast of Nicaragua is very similar
II to the north of Costa Rica, so it is easy to make such
a mistake. It is therefore advisable to keep well off-
shore and only approach the coast when absolute-
11: ly sure of the position.
The reception extended to visiting yachts by the
11 various Central American countries depends very
11 much on the political situation at the time, and
occasionally also on the nationality of the yacht in
question. Stopping at one of the ports on the Pacific
'1
,1 coast of Guatemala has little attraction, whereas in
El Salvador the situation has improved drarnati-
IJ
cally with the coming of peace. A good place to
stop is Acajutla (13 '36'N, 89'50'W), which is one of
El Salvador's official ports of entry, the other being
Cutuco (13 '19'N, 87'49'W). On entering the Gulf of
Fonseca, the Salvadorean Coast Guard should be
contacted on VHF channel 16. The Honduran port
of San Lorenzo (13 '25'N, 87'27'W) has been rec-
ommended as an emergency stop, while in
Nicaragua the ports of Corin to (12 '28'N, 87 '1l 'W)
and San Juan de! Sur (ll '15'N, 85 '53'W) have
attracted mixed comments. One of the most
attractive stops on the Costa Rica coast is Golfito
(8 '36'N, 83 '12'W).
The alternative to the inshore route is to sail well
off the coast thereby avoiding the effect of the local
strong winds described earlier. This makes sense,
especially if leaving from northern Mexico, so that
the entire passage is made well offthe coast and the
Gulf of Tehuantepec is passed at some 400-500
miles offshore. The route then curves towards
Cocos Island (5 '33'N, 87'02'W), where a stop is rec-
ommended, before entering the Gulf of Panama at
Cabo Mala. Directions for transiting the Panama
Canal are given on page 489.

JI
'1 1 PN30 RO UTES FRO M HAWAII
11 PN31 Hawaii to Alaska 218
1, PN32 Hawaii to the Pacific Northwest 219
PN33 Hawaii to California 220
1, PN34 Hawaii to Central America and Mexico 221
I· PN35 Hawaii to Line Islands 222
J' PN36 Hawaii to Marshall Islands 223
,,1' PN37 Hawaii to Japan 223

Ii
/1
216

.. ··~ .....
ALEUTIAN
ISLANDS
20'N
•GUAM
16D' E 180'
PN30 Routes from Hawaii
The main attraction of America's outpost in the
North Pacific are the NE trade winds which ensure
a fast downwind passage from ports on the west
coast of America, especially from those in
California. Hawaii's main disadvantage is the same
trade winds, which make a return voyage to those
ports a more difficult undertaking. The logical solu-
tion for a return passage with fair winds is to make
a big sweep to northward hoping to find in high-
er latitudes the favourable winds needed for the
passage home. The prevailing NE winds also make
a return to Hawaii very difficult from any of the
Micronesian islands to the west, and forward plan-
ning should be the main concern for anyone plan-
ning a voyage to or from Hawaii. Most routes in or
out of Hawaii are under the direct influence of the
North Pacific high, which generates the NW
winds that prevail along the Pacific coasts of
Canada and the USA as well as the NE trade winds
mentioned above. Boats returning to continental
America are faced with a difficult obstacle by the
same high which must be bypassed to avoid the
calms and light winds associated with it. Although
the Hawaiian islands are rarely affected by tropi-
cal storms, some have occurred there in recent
years and this should be borne in mind by those
who are there in summer.
The NE trade winds prevail around Hawaii for
most of the year. The winds tend to be northerly in
PN30 ROUTES FROM HAWAII
GALAPAGOSb
160'W 140°W 12D' W 1DO'W
I
March, becoming more easterly later on. The NE
trade winds are stronger near these islands than any-
where else in the Pacific. Lighter winds and calms
can be experienced in October, while in November
and December southerly winds can interrupt the
trades. The worst months are January and February,
when S and SW gales called konas strike, lasting from
a few hours to 2-3 days and bringing rain.
The high volcanic islands do affect winds local- i
\·
ly and gentle land and sea breezes flow on and off
the land. The trades also divide and flow around
the coast to the north and south of Molokai and
Maui especially. Because of the height of most
islands, there is a considerable wind shadow in
their lee and the trade winds are sometimes blocked
altogether. On the other hand, in the channels
between the islands the wind is accelerated, par-
ticularly strong gusts and rough seas being expe-
rienced in the Alenuihaha Channel separating Maui
from the Big Island. Winds tend to be lighter in the
morning before the trades strengthen for the day.
Of all the routes originating in Hawaii, only the
route across the equator to Tahiti (PT25) oHers a
chance of good passages in both directions,
although this is not the main reason for the popu- .,
larity of this route. Ever since the South Pacific was
put on the world cruising map in the early 30s,
Hawaii has been used as a convenient stepping
stone by boats on their way to other Polynesian
217
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC
destinations. Modem sailing boats have given back
to Hawaii its important position at the apex of the
triangle linking the far flung corners of Polynesia,
from Aotearoa (New Zealand) in the west to Rapa
1 ui (Easter Island) in the east. For a foray into the
South Seas, the islands of Hawaii offer an excellent
starting point. For those who are not afraid of sail-
ing a little farther in search of better winds, Hawaii
is in just as convenient a position, whether the des-
tination is in Japan, Alaska, or the Pacific
Northwest.
PN31 Hawaii to Alaska
I
11
1:
11
i Summer is undoubtedly the best time to make this
passage and most boats which take this north-
I bound route normally leave Hawaii in the second
half of June. Such a departure ensures longer and
II warmer days in higher latitudes and at least one
month of cruising in Alaska before heading south
,1 again.
I The course from Hawaii is almost due north and
skirts the western edge of the North Pacific high.
lj In summer (June to August), the high is normally
centred around 38"N, lSO'W. NE winds normally
persist at least as far as latitude 30"N before being
\: replaced by variable winds. In some years the shift
/i to westerlies can be quite abrupt, in other years
steady westerly winds are almost nonexistent and
Ii light winds and calms persist all the way to Alaska.
11 Generally, however, favourable winds can be
expected for most of the way, as above latitude
11
! 218
11
The eastern part of the North Pacific lends itself
to a circular route, which can be easily accom-
plished in as little as six months. By sailing to
Hawaii in late winter or early spring, preferably
from a port in California, one benefits from the best
sailing conditions across. The early summer is then
spent exploring the Hawaiian islands before the
return voyage is undertaken, idejllly not later than
July. That would allow sufficient time for a short
cruise in British Columbia before sailing back to
California in the autumn.
40'N an average of 70 per cent of the winds are
from between Sand W. The weather gets increas-
ingly cold as higher latitudes are reached and north
of latitude 40"N there is also a high proportion of
fog. This can be a cause of concern because of the
large amount of shipping, both cargo and fishing
boats. Yet another problem is the overcast sky,
which is a feature of higher latitudes in summer.
The permanent cloud cover makes it impossible to
take sun sights, which makes satellite navigation
almost indispensable.
A favourite starting point from Hawaii is
Hanalei Bay on Kauai Island. From WP311, outside
Hanalei Bay, the course is almost due north along
meridian 160"W, so as to keep west of the Pacific
high. From WP PN312 the course is altered for WP
PN313, east of Kodiak Island. From that point the
route runs along the east coast of that island to WP

PN314 in the approaches to Kodiak Harbour. The
well protected harbour is best entered from NE
through a dredged channel, which leads N of Near
Island to Kodiak, an old town on the NW shore of
Kodiak Harbour. Boats bound for Du tch Harbour
will follow similar direc;:tions and, from WP
PN312, will set course for WP315 off Sedanka
Island. The course can then be altered to sail
PN32 Hawaii to the Pacific Northwest
The summer months are to be preferred for this
passage, not so much because they ensure better
winds, but because the weather is warmer. Indeed,
faster passages have been made in February, when
a higher proportion of southerly winds have made
it possible to sail almost a great circle course to Juan
de Fuca. At all other times the recommendation is
to sail due north on leaving Hawaii and only start
turning east when stead y westerly winds are met.
This normally happens above latitude 40"'N and the
point where the route takes on tha t easterly curve
is furthest north in August and furthest sou th in
December. In summer it might be necessary to go
as far north as 45 'N before being able to turn east.
With the approach of au tumn, the North Pacific
high starts moving south, wh ich means that the
swing to the north need not be so great. However,
such an advantage has to be weighed against the
increase in gale force winds.
This route depends very much on the position of
the North Pacific high, which in su mmer is centred
on 38"'N, 150'W. The recommended route follows
its western edge and then curves around its north-
ern fringe trying to avoid the calms that are met if
the area of h igh pressure is crossed. Undeterred by
this prospect, some people who are prepared to use
PN30 R OUTES FR OM H AWAII
through Akutan Pass to reach Dutch Harbour in
Unalaska Bay on the north coast of Unalaska
Island. Dutch Harbour is a better starting point
than Kodiak for a cruise along the northern shore
of the Gulf of Alaska. However, if time is short and
one wishes to spend some time cruising on the way
south, Kodiak is probably a better choice.
their engines try to steer the shortest course
across and are occasionally rewarded by a faster,
if windless, passage. In recent years, the most com-
mon strategy has been to sail north to the limit of
the NE trade winds and then use the engine to
reach the area of prevailing westerlies. For those
who prefer to sail all or most of the way, there is less
choice, and their reward for a longer and colder
passage into higher latitudes is a fast reach in
steady westerlies. As the route skirts the fringes of
the high, the skies are often overcast and celestial
navigation is usually impossible.
Because of the needed northing, boats usually
leave from Hanalei Bay on Kauai and take their
departure from Hawaii at WP PN321. Ii1termediate
waypoints cannot be given for the reasons
d escribed above, but in summer, one may have to
head as far north as WP PN322 before altering
course for the mainland coast. Landfall will be
made at WP PN323, NW of Cape Flattery in the
approaches to Juan de Fuca Strait.
Besides the weather, there are several hazards to
wa tch out for on this route, such as the large fish-
ing nets, which are often left unattended and even
unlit. Such nets have been reported anywhere
between 35' N and 45'N and as far west as 145'W.
219
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACJFJC
Another hazard, especially north of 40 "N is dense
fog. Extreme caution is necessary in the approach-
es to Juan de Puca Strait because of heavy shipping
and strong currents. Shipping separation zones are
in operation, with the southern Jane being used by
arriving ships and the northern Jane reserved for
outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at designated
points so as to allow ships to turn either north
towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. To
complicate matters, there is often a large number
of fishing boats around the Swiftsure Bank, east of
PN33 Hawaii to California
Directions for this route are almost the same as for
PN32 as sailing a direct course from Hawaii to
California is seldom possible due to the prevailing
NE winds. The recommended sailing route from
Hawaii runs almost due north before turning east
once the area of steady westerly winds has been
reached . The turning point varies in latitude
throughout the year, being as far north as 40'N in
summer and 32"N in winter. The recommended
summer route turns quite sharply at the point
where steady westerlies are met, whereas at other
times the route follows a curve that turns gradu-
ally NE and then E towards the port of destination.
If the passage is made at the end of winter, in
February or March, the route should start turning
NE at about latitude 30"N (WP PN332) when the
best course should be set for the port of destination.
'The NE turning point in May is somewhere
around WP PN333, and in August WP PN334.
From these hypothetical waypoints the route
220
the entrance to the strait. Traffic in the area is con-
trolled by Tofino Radio (VHF channels 16 and 74).
Incoming vessels are requested to report when due
south of Amphitrite Point. The station operates a
regular roll call, every ship reporting their position,
speed, and course. In bad visibility the station will
advise ships that are in the vicinity of a small boat's
position. The station will also assi~t yachts with
directions and may even track sdch vessels on
radar.
curves gradually northeast and then east for one's
destination. The August turning point is the most
northerly in latitude 40'N, or even higher. Because
the recommended summer routes make destina-
tions in the Pacific Northwest closer than those in
California, boats from South California often take
advantage of this by cruising some of that area
before heading for home.
Boats sailing nonstop to San Francisco should
make landfall at WP PN335 off Point Reyes, at the
entrance into the traffic separation zone. In poor
visibility one should contact the US Coastguard
Vessel Traffic Service (CVTS) on VHF Channel 16
to obtain information on shipping traffic.
As described in PN32, all these routes are great-
ly influenced by the position of the North Pacific
high, as they attempt to follow the contour of this
area of high pressure. Boats with a good windward
performance can often take a more direct route than
the recommended one, as can those whose skippers

are prepared to make their easting with help from
the engine. Some fast passages have been made in
May by boats taking the great circle route and
motorsailing to windward in light winds. At other
times, boats heading for Southern California have
tried to beat their way across by keeping south of
the high, something that can be done especially if
one is able to keep track of the weather. Otherwise
it is better to follow the old practice of making nor-
PN34 Hawaii to Central America and Mexico
Because .of the prevailing northeasterly winds,
which blow throughout the year on the direct route
to continental America, directions for passages.to
ports in Northern Mexico are similar to those
described in PN33. Reaching Mexico from Hawaii
by such a roundabout route is so time consuming
that one should think seriously before committing
oneself to such a passage. The alternative is only
marginally more attractive, as it entails a similar.
detour to the south. Ports in Central America, and
especially Panama, can be reached by such a south-
ern route, which is best sailed in late October or
November. Recommended waypoints are only list-
ed for such a southern route.
A good starting point from Hawaii is Hilo. From
WP PN341, outside Hilo, existing weather condi-
tions should be used to best advantage to reach WP
PN342. An area of prevailing SE and S winds
extends eastwards from this point and also the east-
setting Equatorial Countercurrent. The route pass-
PN30 ROUTES FROM HAWAII
thing while under the influence of the NE trade
winds and sail east with the westerlies of high lat-
itudes. In between 't he two systems one may not
have much choice except to use the engine. How-
ever, as the position of the North Pacific high has
such a bearing on all routes to the mainland, it is
essential to obtain a long term forecast before leav-
ing Hawaii so as to be able to plot the best course
in relation to the existing weather conditions.
es north of the Galapagos Islands with the winds
becoming increasingly Sand SW so that the route
can gradually curve to NE and the Gulf of
Panama, where landfall will be made at WP PN343
off Cabo Mala.
Boats bound for Costa Rica may be able to alter
course earlier for WP344 north of Cocos Island. The
island belongs to Costa Rica and has a good anchor-
age in Chatham Bay (5 '33'N, 87"02'W). The voyage
can then be continued to mainland Costa Rica to
WP345, at the entrance to Golfo Dulce a!"d the port
I
of Golfito. j
Even in a month when the best conditions can be
expected along these routes, such as November,
this will be a tough passage and should only be
undertaken in extremis after all other alternatives
have been considered. It is also essential that the
voyage is made in a boat that goes well to wind-
ward as much of the passage will be hard on the
wind.
221
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PA CIFIC
Another hazard, especially north of 40"N is dense
fog. Extreme caution is necessary in the approach-
es to Juan de Fuca Strait because of heavy shipping
and strong currents. Shipping separation zones are
in operation, with the southern lane being used by
arriving ships and the northern lane reserved for
outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at designated
points so as to allow ships to turn either north
towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. To
complicate matters, there is often a large number
of fishing boa ts around the Swiftsure Bank, east of
PN33 Hawaii to California
Directions for this route are almost the same as for
PN32 as sailing a direct course from Hawaii to
California is seldom possible due to the prevailing
NE winds. The recommended sailing route from
Hawaii runs almost due north before turning east
once the area of steady westerly winds has been
reached. The turning point varies in latitude
throughout the year, being as far north as 40"N in
summer and 32"N in winter. The recommended
summer route turns quite sharply at the point
where steady westerlies are met, whereas at other
times the route follows a curve that turns gradu-
ally NE and then E towards the port of destination.
1f the passage is made at the end of winter, in
February or March, the route should start turning
NE at about latitude 30"N (WP PN332) when the
best course should be set for the port of destination.
'The NE turning point in May is somewhere
around WP PN333, and in August WP PN334.
From these hypothetical waypoints the route
220
the entrance to the strait. Traffic in the area is con-
trolled by Tofino Radio (VHF channels 16 and 74).
Incoming vessels are requested to report when due
south of Amphitrite Point. The station operates a
regular roll call, every ship reporting their position,
speed, and course. In bad visibility the station will
advise ships that are in the vicinity of a small boat's
position. The station will also assi~t yachts with
directions and may even track such vessels on
radar.
curves gradually northeast and then east for one's
destination. The August turning point is the most
northerly in latitude 40"N, or even higher. Because
the recommended summer routes make destina-
tions in the Pacific Northwest closer than those in
California, boats from South California often take
advantage of this by cruising some of that area
before heading for home.
Boats sailing nonstop to San Francisco should
make landfall at WP PN335 off Point Reyes, at the
entrance into the traffic separation zone. In poor
visibility one should contact the US Coastguard
Vessel Traffic Service (CVTS) on VHF Channel 16
to obtain information on shipping traffic.
As described in PN32, all these routes are great-
ly influenced by the position of the North Pacific
high, as they attempt to foliow the contour of this
area of high pressure. Boats with a good windward
performance can often take a more direct route than
the recommended one, as can those whose skippers

are prepared to make their easting with help from
the engine. Some fast passages have been made in
May by boats taking the great circle route and
motorsailing to windward in light winds. At other
times, boats heading for Southern California have
tried to beat their way across by keeping south of
the high, something that can be done especially if
one is able to keep track of the weather. Otherwise
it is better to follow the old practice of making nor-
PN34 Hawaii to Central America and Mexico
Because of the prevailing northeasterly winds,
which blow throughout the year on the direct route
to continental America, directions for passages. to
ports in Northern Mexico are similar to those
described in PN33. Reaching Mexico from Hawaii
by such a roundabout route is so time consuming
that one should think seriously before committing
oneself to such a passage. The alternative is only
marginally more attractive, as it entails a similar.
detour to the south. Ports in Central America, and
especially Panama, can be reached by such a south-
ern route, which is best sailed in late October or
November. Recommended waypoints are only list-
ed for such a southern route.
A good starting point from Hawaii is Hilo. From
WP PN341, outside Hilo, existing weather condi-
tions should be used to best advantage to reach WP
PN342. An area of prevailing SE and 5 winds
extends eastwards from this point and also the east-
setting Equatorial Countercurrent. The route pass-
PN30 ROUTES FROM HAWAII
thing while under the influence of the NE trade
winds and sail east with the westerlies of high lat-
itudes. In between the two systems one may not
have much choice except to use the engine. How-
ever, as the position of the North Pacific high has
such a bearing on all routes to the mainland, it is
essential to obtain a Jong term forecast before leav-
ing Hawaii so as to be able to plot the best course
in relation to the existing weather conditions.
es north of the Galapagos Islands with the winds
becoming increasingly Sand SW so that the route
can gradually curve to NB and the Gulf of
Panama, where landfall will be made at WP PN343
off Cabo Mala.
Boats bound for Costa Rica may be able to alter
course earlier for WP344 north of Cocos Island. The
island belongs to Costa Rica and has a good anchor-
age in Chatham Bay (5°33'N, 87"02'W). The voyage
can then be continued to mainland Costa Rica to
WP345, at the entrance to Golfo Dulce a!'d the port
of Golfito.
Even in a month when the best conditions can be
expected along these routes, such as November,
this will be a tough passage and should only be
undertaken in extremis after all other alternatives
have been considered. It is also essential that the
voyage is made in a boat that goes well to wind-
ward as much of the passage will be hard on the
wind.
22.1
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC
PN35 Hawaii to Line Islands
The route running due south to these islands lying
close to the equator has the benefit of the NE trade
winds throughout the year. These winds are par-
ticularly strong and steady in winter, but tend to
get lighter as the islands are approached. The NE
winds are usually lost somewhere between lati-
tudes 8 'N and 2 'N. The doldrums rarely exceed 2'
in width in these longitudes and the switch to the
SE trade winds of the South Pacific can be quite
sudden, especially between May a11d August.
South of latitude 8 'N the proportion of southerly
winds is always higher. The area Is under the influ-
ence of all three equatorial currents, their direction,
rate, and steadiness varying throughout the year.
Sometimes in winter a very strong west-setting cur-
rent makes itself felt between Christmas and
I Fanning islands, whereas in summer the counter-
I current can be just as strong in its easterly set.
I
Generally, the west-setting North Equatorial
Current will be experienced down to about 10'N.
The east-setting North Equatorial Countercurrent
has been observed between latitudes S'N and S'N.
South of 3 'N to just below the equator, the current
is again setting west. The latter is the South
Equatorial Current.
222
From WP PN351, off Honolulu, course is set for
WP PN352. Because winds will be NE as far as 5 'N,
and from there E and SE winds will prevail, some
easting should be made in the early part of the voy-
age so as to approach the islands from windward.
If possible, one should attempt to start off from one
of the most eastern ports in Hawaii, in which case
leaving from Honolulu is perhaps not such a good
idea. If bound for Christmas Island, from WP
PN352 the course should be altered for WP
PN353, NW of that island . The island's well pro-
tected natural harbour is entered through Cook
Island Passage (1 "SS'N, 157'29'W). Boats bound for
Fanning, also known as Teraina, should set course
for WP PN354, so as to approach that island from
the north. However, it must be pointed out that
because of the prevailing SE winds, sailing from
Fanning to Christmas Island may not be easy, so
one may have to choose between one or the other.
The Northern Line Islanqs belong to Kiribati, and
there are official entry procedures only at
Christmas and Fanning (Teraina) Island.
Otherwise, the comings and goings of cruising
boats appear to be tolerated without formalities.

PN36 Hawaii to Marshall Islands
This is a downwind run all the way pushed along
by the NE trades, which become more easterly in
the proximity of the islands. Winds are less constant
among the islands themselves and in summer the
weather can be squally although the direction of the
winds remains predominantly easterly. The unset-
tled summer weather is caused by the ITCZ mov-
ing north over the islands.
The North Equatorial Current and Equatorial
Countercurrent set strongly through the archipel-
ago producing a complex pattern. The set among
the northern islands is mostly west while in the
· southern islands it is east. Because of the complexity
of the currents and also because the islands are all
low lying atolls, it is advisable to only sail among
them in daylight and avoid night passages.
From WP PN361, off Honolulu, a direct route for
Majuro passes close to the south of Johnston Atoll
(16 'SO'N, 169'"30'W). As navigation within 3 miles
of this atoll is prohibited, course should be set for
PN37 Hawaii to Japan
I .
I<;;,
PN30 ROUTES FROM HAWAII
WP PN362, to pass well to the south of it. The route
then continues north of Majuro Atoll to WP PN363.
The large lagoon is entered through Calalin Pass on
its western side (7 '1O'N, 171 ·1O'E). The two mile
wide pass is located between Eroj and Calalin
Island and has a shallow area in the centre which
divides it into two channels. The Port Authority
should be contacted on VHF channel 16 as one
approaches the atoll. Boats should proceed to Uliga
dock where formalities are completed. The only
ports of entry in the Marshalls are the capital
Majuro and Ebeye, in Kwajalein Atoll. The latter
should not be approached until radio contact has
been established with Kwajalein Atoll Control as
the area is used for missile testing by the US mili-
tary. Boats arriving from overseas are strongly rec-
ommended to make their first entry at Majuro.
Cruising in all islands is only allowed with a spe-
cial permit which can be obtained in Majuro.
223
ROUTES I N THE NORTH PACIFIC
Favourable winds prevail along most of this
route throughout the year, although the time of
arrival in Japan must take into account the
typhoon season in that part of the world. A passage
in winter, when there is little or no danger of
typhoons, is not recommended as the weather can
be cold and stormy in Japan . A better time is late
spring towards the end of the NE monsoon and
before the start of the typhoon season. If planning
tg cruise in Japan, the best time to leave Hawaii is
towards the end of March so as to arrive in Japan
by late April or early May. Another alternative is
to make the passage just before the onset of win-
ter, late October or November being a good time in
which both winds and current are favourable.
On leaving Hawaii the route runs due west along
the Tropic of Cancer if the passage is made between
April and September. Although conditions for a
westbound passage appear to be the best in sum-
mer, the risk of encountering a typhoon in the
Western Pacific makes summer passages far less
attractive. Later in the year and during winter, the
NE trades are steadier further south which makes.
it necessary to possibly go as far south as 16 'N to
be sure of favourable winds. The recommended
route for November runs along latitude 18°N,
although better winds might be found even further
south. The North Equatorial Current sets west
along this route throughou t the year. The routes
224
recommended for various times of the year start
curving NW after meridian 160"E has been crossed.
It is at that point that a decision has to be made
whether to pass to the east or west of Ogasawara
Gunto, the chain of islands stretching south of
Japan. The recommended route for boats bound for
ports east of Tokyo stays east of these islands. For
ports in the west of Japan, better conditions will be
found if the route passes to the west of the islands
in Ogasawara Gunto. An interesting and conve-
nient island in the latter group, in which an emer-
gency stop can be made, is Chichishima (27"05'N,
142'11 'E). The main settlement Omura is in the well
sheltered Futami Ko Bay, which may become
untenable in strong SW winds.
Leaving from Honolulu and WP PN371, depend-
ing on the time of year, the route will pass either
south or north of Johnston Atoll. The route will
have to avoid a number of dangers west of that
atoll before passing through WP PN372. From
there, the route turns NW towards WP PN373. It
then carries on to WP PN374 from where it pass-
es between the islands of Hahashima and
Chichishima to make landfall at WP PN375, in the
approaches to Osaka. Visiting yachts must clear in
at one of the official ports of'entry. One of the most
conveniently located is Osaka, especially for
those planning to cruise the Inland Sea.

ROUTES IN THE FAR EAST
Compared to other parts of the world, cruising
routes in the Far East do not fall into a logical pat-
tern, because the area is off the beaten track and the
weather is unpredictable. The western part of the
North Pacific is far from major cruising routes and
Far Eastern countries can only by reached by a
lengthy detour. However, many more cruising
boats might venture to explore its remoteness
were it not for the often appalling weather.
Virtually the entire area is subject to violent
typhoons, which limit the safe sailing season to
only a few months per year. As most distances
involved are very long, it usually means that one
must be prepared to remain there between seasons
and spend the typhoon season in or near a safe
anchorage, of which fortunately there are many.
Although tropical storms have been recorded in
every month of the year, May to December is
regarded as the typhoon season.
The three main cruising areas are the Philippines,
Japan, and Micronesia. The attraction of the
Philippines is the generally.pleasant climate and
the great number of islands, inlets, and bays to
explore. Although typhoons strike the archipelago
with regularity, there are many good anchorages
where shelter can be sought. The Inland Sea of
Japan and the great number of small fishing har-
bours make Japan an attractive cruising destina-
tion, although the safe sailing season is very short.
The scattered islands of Micronesia are much clos-
er in character to the islands of the South Pacific
and are in fact convenient stepping stones between
the South Pacific and the Far East.
PN40 P ACIFIC RO UTES FROM SINGAPORE
PN41 Singapore to the Gulf of Siam
PN42 Singapore to Vietnam
PN43 Singapore to Hong Kong
PN44 Singapore to the Philippines
PN45 Singapore to North Borneo
The majority of cruising boats arrive in Singapore
either from the south, through Indonesia, or the
NW through the Malacca Strait, and most leave by
the same routes. Very few venture eastward from
Singapore, although there is an increasing traffic of
locally owned yachts, some of which commute
between the various regional yacht races, such as
PN40 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM S INGAPORE
The main drawback of the Far East remains,
however, the difficulty of getting there. In spite of
the favourable NE trade winds that blow across the
North Pacific ensuring a fast and pleasant sail from
the west coast of America, the number of North
American yachts that embark on such a transpacific
voyage is very small. They are much more likely to
be tempted by the lure of the South Seas and sail
to the South Pacific instead, although some venture
into the North West Pacific at a later stage, most
reaching the Far East via Papua New Guinea and
Micronesia. Another route sailed by cruising
boats to reach the Far East through the Philippines
and Hong Kong is the route originating in
Singapore. The reports of piracy in the South China
Sea in the 1980s had dissuaded many sailors from
using that route. The situation has greatly
improved as a result of the gradual liberalisation
of Vietnam and the region surrounding it may soon
become an attractive cruising destination. For the
time being, the best solution for boats starting off
from Singapore is to follow the north coast of
Borneo, where stops can be made in the small states
of Sarawak, Brunei, or Sabah. The other alternative
is to arrive in the Far East via Papua New Guinea
at the end of a cruise in the South Pacific. Yet anoth-
er possibility is to sail nonstop to Japan from the
west coast of North America or Hawaii and either
continue the voyage towards Singapore and the
Indian Ocean, or sail south through Papua New
Guinea to Australia, across to New Zealand and
along the southern route to Tahiti.
226
227
227
229
230
the annual King's Cup Regatta in Phuket or the
Hong Kong to Manila Race. The gradual opening
of Vietnam to foreign tourism will undoubtedly
attract more cruising boats to that area. An equal-
ly interesting cruising area is the north coast
of Borneo. The Philippines are another area
waiting to be visited by more cruising boats. The
225
 II
RO UTES JN THE NORTH P ACIFIC

/
compulsory cruising permit for Indonesia dis- already underway and a few Indonesian islands
courages short cruises between Singapore and its close to Singapore can now be visited without a
southern neighbour, but an easing of restrictions is cruising permit.
I
I
I
I
I
./
!/

!I
11

lI
1,

:I
~!
~I PN40 Pacific routes from Singapore

PN41 Singapore to the Gulf of Siam

!I
I
I
.[11i
I
Iii 226

The best time to sail this route, which runs paral-
lel to the east coast of continental Malaysia, is dur-
ing the SW monsoon. On leaving the Strait of
Singapore through the North Channel, from WP
PN411 a course is set for WP PN412. The route
passes west of Pulau Pemanggil, one of the small-
er Tioman Islands, an attractive archipelago
belonging to Malaysia, where a stop should be con-
sidered. From WP PN412, the route runs due north
parallel to the Malaysian coast to WP PN413, close
to the point where the route enters Thai waters.
PN42 Singapore to Vietnam
Similar directions apply as for route PN41 as far as
the Tioman Islands, if a stop there is intended. The
best time to sail to Vietnam is the same as for the
Gulf of Siam as sailing anywhere in this area should
be timed to take full advantage of the two mon-
soons: NE monsoon in winter (December to April)
and SW monsoon in summer (May to October).
Boats intending to sail direct to Vietnam, on leav-
ing the Strait of Singapore through the North
Channel, from WP PN421 course is set for WP
PN422, W of Con Son Island, in the approaches to
the channel leading through the shallow waters of
the Mekong Delta. Ho Chi Minh City, the former
Saigon, stands on the west bank of the Song Sai
PN43 Singapore to Hong Kong
PN40 PACIFIC RO UTES FROM SINGAPOR E
From there the course can be altered for WP PN414,
near Ko Phai light and Bangkok Pilot Station, in the
approaches to Bangkok (Krung Thep) at the
entrance to the buoyed channel leading across
Bangkok Bar. The busy port ofBangkokhas spread
on both shores of the Chao Phraya river and can
hardly be recommended as a cruising destination
in itself. Visiting boats should head for Pattaya,
where the Royal Varona Yacht Club is based, and
complete entry formalities with the help of the
Yacht Club.
·I
Gan river. The Vietnamese capital is about 40 miles
from the sea and access to it is by one of two
dredged channels. Anchorage in the river is pro-
hibited except well away from the city. At the time
of writing, Vietnam was still out of bounds for
cruising yachts but there were already signs that
there would be an easing of restrictions ·in the not
too distant future. It is therefore advisable to check
out the situation before leaving Singapore because
even if one is not allowed to cruise in Vietnam, it
may be possible to obtain permission to stop in one
of the ports on the east coast, which could be a great
help for boats on passage to or from fiong Kong.
227
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC
Direct passages through the South China Sea must
avoid a large area of reefs and associated dangers
north of Borneo. In the past the recommended route
passed between the north coast of Borneo and this
reef area and re-entered the South China Sea
through the Palawan Passage. As described in
route PN42, the recent changes in Vietnam have
made it possible to sail close to the shores of that
country and this has considerably shortened the
distance to Hong Kong for those who prefer to sail
this shorter route (PN43A). Those who intend to
stop in North Borneo or the Philippines will con-
tinue to use the traditional route through Palawan
Passage (PN43B).
The most favourable winds on either of these
routes will be found at the start of the SW monsoon
and although more consistent winds can be
expected in July and August, the increased likeli-
hood of typhoons in the area around Hong Kong
makes passages in late summer too risky. Winter
passages are not threatened by typhoons but are
very difficult to accomplish as this is the time of the
NE monsoon when strong NE winds and an equal-
ly strong south flowing current occur north of
Borneo. A winter passage is best undertaken in
short stages with stops along the north coast of
Borneo, as described in routes PN44 and PN45.
Boats sailing route PN43A to Hong Kong
should leave the Strait of Singapore through the
North Channel. From WP PN430 the route passes
228
to the west of Mangkai Island to WP PN431, 30
miles east of the Chadwick Islands, off Vietnam' s
SE coast. The route continues in a northerly direc-
tion parallel to the Vietnamese coast to WP
PN432, 15 miles west of North Reef, the western-
most reef in the Paracel Islands. From there a course
can be set for WP PN433, in the SW approaches to
Hong Kong.
Route PN43B leaves the Strait of Singapore
through the Middle Channel. From WP PN434 the
route runs between South Na tuna and Subi Kechi!
islands to WP PN435. From there, a course is set for
WP PN436, south of Luconia Shoals. From WP
PN436 a straight course can be steered for WP
PN437, 12 miles S of Melville Island at the
entrance into Balabac Strait. From there the route
to Hong Kong continues through Palawan Passage.
The narrowest part of this passage is 28 miles wide,
where it is bound on the west by Captain Royal
Shoal and on the east by Balabac Island. As the cur-
rents set strongly eastward through the Balabac
Strait, Balabac Island should not be approached in
bad weather. In the area between Borneo and
Palawan, the currents often behave erratically and
many vessels have come to grief on either side of
Pala wan passage when going through in poor vis-
ibility. From WP PN438, at the northern entrance
into Pala wan Passage, a direct course, which pass-
es east of Macclesfield Bank, can be set for WP
PN439, in the SE approaches to Hong Kong.

Visiting yachts are welcome at the Royal Hong
Kong Club, located in Victoria Harbour, on the N
side of Hong Kong Island. Arriving yachts should
contact Port Operation Service on VHF channel 12
PN44 Singapore to the Philippines
Few boats attempt to make this passage without
stopping as there are a number of convenient ports
on the north coast of Borneo. A passage during the
SW monsoon offers the best chance of favourable
winds, but such a summer passage also carries the
risk of typhoons as one approaches the Philippines.
Typhoons, however, are less frequent in the south-
ern half of that archipelago so one should plan on
restricting one's cruising to that area during the
critical period. There would be less risks from
typhoons if the passage is made during the NE
monsoon, but then the winds will be mostly con-
trary. As the route runs along the coast of Borneo,
the voyage can be interrupted in any one of the
three states bordering on the South China Sea and
there are several ports in Sarawak, Brunei and
Sabah where yachts can find good shelter.
PN40 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM SINGAPORE
and proceed to the western quarantine anchorage.
Because .of the heavy amount of shipping, it is
essential to time one's arrival for daylight hours.
There are two variants which can be sailed on
this route. Having left the Strait of Singapore
through the Middle Channel, from WP PN441, the
more northern route (PN44A) runs between South
Natuna and Subi Kechi! islands to WP PN442. From
there, a course is set for WP PN443, south of
Luconia Shoals.
The alternative route (PN44B), also leaving the
Strait of Singapore at WP PN441, goes first to WP
PN444 by passing south of a group of small islands,
the closest of which is Pulau Kajuara. From WP
PN444, the course turns NE and goes through Api
Passage, NW of Borneo, to join the other route at
WP PN443, south of Luconia Shoals. In all these
passes att~ntion must be paid to the currents, which
can be very strong at times. Another hazard along
the north coast of Borneo are the various oil plat-
229
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC
forms, most of which are lit.
From WP PN443 boats bound for the Southern
Philippines can set a straight course for WP PN445,
12 miles S of Melville Island at the entrance into
Balabac Strait. From Balabac Strait the route
enters the Sulu Sea, where conditions can be quite
rough during the NE monsoon. This is one of the
reasons why the inside route through the Sulu Sea
is not necessarily the best if bound for Luzon and
Manila. Ports in the Northern Philippines are bet-
1 I ter reached through the Palawan Passage, as des-
cribed below.
I Boats bound for ports in the Northern Philippines
I and intending to use the Palawan Passage, should
,I
I PN45 Singapore to North Borneo
I/
Most boats bound for the Philippines and beyond
take advantage of the conveniently placed ports on
the north coast of Borneo to break the voyage in one
of the states belonging to the Federation of
Malaysia. From the Strait of Singapore and WP
PN451, the route leads to WP PN452, close to the
Api Passage, passing south of a group of small
islands, the closest of which is Pulau Kajuara. A
first stop can be made in Na tuna Besar, a group of
islands belonging to Indonesia. The main port is
Genting, on Sedanau Island (3 "45'N, 108 'OO'E). As
there is a dispute over the islands between Indo-
nesia and Malaysia, only emergency stops are
allowed. From Api Passage the route follows close-
ly the coast of Sarawak, one of the states in the
Malaysian Federation. Its capital Kutching is 22
miles up the river Sarawak. There are sand bars
across the river entrance, but they only cause prob-
?::10
alter course at WP PN443, off Luconia Shoals, for
WP PN446, west of Saracen Bank. From there a
direct course can "be set which leads through the
Palawan Passage to WP PN447. From there, the
same course is maintained to WP PN448, off Luzon
Point in the approaches to Manila.
The alternative to the above routes is to break up
the passage into shorter stages by'calling at ports
in the Na tuna Islands, Sarawak and Brunei. A con-
venient stop on the NE corner of Borneo is Kota
Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah, one of the states
belonging to the Federation of Malaysia. Details of
these stops are described in route PN45.
!ems to deep drafted boats.
The next country on Borneo's north coast is
Brunei. The main port of this oil rich state is Muara,
at the mouth of the river on which is also the cap-
ital of Brunei, Bandar Seri Bagawan. Further east,
on the NE corner of Borneo, is the state of Sa bah,
whose capital is Kota Kinabalu.
The area is rarely affected by typhoons and the
effect of the monsoons is also less noticeable than
further north. Especially during the early part of
the SW monsoon, winds are often light, there are
frequent calms and, if sailing close to the coast, land
and sea breezes are more reliable than seasonal
winds. A good reserve of fuel should be carried as
much of the distance may have to be covered under
power. The SW monsoon becomes stronger
towards the end of summer.
 PNSO ROUTES FROM THE PHILIPPIN ES

PN50 ROUTES FROM THE PHILIPPINES

PNSl Philippines to Singapore 232
PN52 Philippines to Hong Kong 233
PN53 Philippines to Japan 233
PN54 Philippines to Guam 235
PNSS Philippines to Palau 235
Rumours of piracy in the notorious Sulu Sea, dif- ago and with so many islands over such a large area
ficulties with the officials, and the threat of it is obvious that local weather conditions will vary
typhoons have all combined to keep most cruising considerably. The prevailing winds blowing over
boats away from this beautiful and interesting the islands are influenced mainly by the monsoons
country. As in other parts of the world, some of of the China Sea, the Philippines forming a border
these points may have been exaggerated and between this sea and the Pacific Ocean. The NE
reports from cruising boats which have visited the monsoon blows from mid-October until mid-May
Philippines recently paint a brighter picture. and this is regarded as the fine season, with dry and
Over 7,000 islands make up this large archipel- clear weather.

20°N
\ I;
ii
I

" GUAM
I

o•

PNSO Routes from the Philippines

231
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC
The SW monsoon only becomes well established
from July and lasts until October. During the lat-
ter part of this period the weather becomes
squally with violent gales, which can last for sev-
eral days. These gales usually begin from the Nor
NW and back to SW or S, blowing strongly with
heavy ralli. September to November are the worst
months for this kind of weather. This is also the
PNSl Philippines to Singapore
8ESTIJ1ME:
TR,OPICAL S'IORMS:
CHAR'l'S:
Because of the low incidence of tropical storms in
the areas traversed by this route, southbound pas-
sages can be made at any time of the year, although
more favourable sailing conditions occur during
the months in which the NE monsoon is well estab-
lished. During summer and the SW monsoon, ty-
phoons occasionally pass through the Philippines
and therefore offshore passages are best avoided,
particularly during the peak months of August and
September. As these are also the months when the
SW monsoon is blowing at its strongest, passages
should indeed be left for another time.
After leaving the Sulu Sea through Balabac Strait,
from WP PN511, 12 miles south of Melville Island,
the route runs parallel to the north coast of Borneo
to WP PN512, south of Luconia Shoals. From there,
Singapore can be reached either through Api
Passage, close to the NW extremity of Borneo, or
by an offsliore route that goes through the pass sep-
arating Subi Kechi! Island and the Natuna Islands.
To take the offshore route (PN51A), from WP
' 232
period during which typhoons strike these waters.
These storms usually originate to the SE of the
islands and move across them into the China Sea,
some reaching the China coast, while others
curve up towards Japan. The Philippines have one
of the highest incidence of typhoons and although
the main season is from June to October they can
occur at any time between May and' December.
PN512 a course is set for WP PN513 before alter-
ing course for WP PN514 to negotiate the Strait of
Singapore through the Middle Channel.
The more southern route (PN51B) splits from WP
PN512 in a SW direction and passes through Api
Passage to WP PN515. From there a course is set for
WP PN514 and the Strait of Singapore passing
south of a group of small islands, the closest of
which is Pulau Kajuara. Boats arriving in Singapore
from the east may find it easier to go to the anchor-
age off the Changi Yacht Club, NE of Singapore
Island, and complete entry formalities from there.
The alternative is the new Raffles Marina
(1 '20.53'N, 103 '38.22'E), on the west coast of
Singapore Island.
Few boats sail this route without stopping in one
of the three small states in North Borneo, all of
which have excellent harbours, Kota Kinabalu
(5'59'N, 116 '03'E) in Sabah, Muara in Brunei
(5'02'N, 115 '04'E), and Kuching in Sarawak (1 '34'N,
110'21 'E). A stop in any of these ports is particularly

welcome during the SW monsoon when contrary
winds and currents make this passage slow and
PN52 Philippines to Hong Kong
This passage is usually made either direct from
Manila Bay or from one of the ports further north
along the west coast of Luzon. Whichever point of
departure is chosen, the passage presents no prob-
lems during the NE monso6n, when favourable
conditions can be expected for the entire passage,
although the winds can be quite strong. The best
time to do this passage is from mid-December to
mid-March. During the remainder of the year, par-
ticular attention must be paid to tropical depres-
sions forming in the South China Sea or even
further afield,. as these can develop into fully
fledged typhoons before a safe harbour can be
reached.
Pratas Reef should be given a wide berth, and
unless the weather is clear and settled it should not
be passed too close on its windward side. During
the NE monsoon, when strong winds and overcast
skies can last for several days, vessels approaching
PN53 Philippines to Japan
PN50 ROUTES FROM THE PHILIPPINES
tedious. All those ports are described in more detail
in route PN45 (page 230).
Pratas Reef from the S or SE should check their
position frequently, as many vessels have been lost
on this reef due to a doubtful position.
The busy port of Manila attracts fewer cruising
boats than in the past. Boats leaving from there take
their leave at WP PN521, off Luzon Point. A direct
course can be set from there for Hong Kong and
WP PN523. A more popular port, and a better point
of departure from the Philippines, is San Fernando,
north of Manila. To leave from there, a direct course
for Hong Kong can be set from WP PN522 for WP
PN523, in the approaches to Hong Kong. Visiting
yachts are welcome at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht
Club, located in Victoria Harbour, on the N side of
Hong Kong Island. Arriving yachts should contact
Port Operation Service on VHF channel 12 and pro-
ceed to the western quarantine anahorage. Because
of the heavy amount of shipping, it is-essential to
time one's arrival for daylight hours.
233
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

I
I
I Route PN53B
I PN535 Bernardino 1451

I 12'40'N, 124'20'E

I The best time to make this passage is in May, at the

835

high concentration of fishing boats. Having passed

I beginning of the SW monsoon, when the danger of

being overtaken by an early typhoon is minimal.
through Taiwan Strait, the route runs parallel to the
mainland coast across the East China Sea and

I The winds are generally favourable for most of the

passage, although calms can be expected when
makes landfall at WP PN534.
At the change of seasons, or perhaps right at the

I approaching the Japanese coast. The offshore route

follows the Kura Shio current, which sets NE at a
beginning of the SW monsoon, a direct offshore
passage (PN53B) can be feasible. fn such a case, the
most convenient place to leave the Philippines is
considerable rate especially during the SW mon-

II soon. Occasionally the weather can be quite

rough as one passes from one wind system to the
next and attention should be paid to the movement
of frontal systems. An equally alert watch must be
through the Bernardino Strait. From WP PN535 the
offshore route leads to WP PNS36 off Mura to Saki
in the approaches to Osaka. The latter is a conve-
nient port of entry and also a good starting point

I kept for the large amount of shipping in thjs area,

both commercial and fishing.
Depending on the port of destination, the route
11 can stay either east or west of Nansei Shoto
(Ryukyu), the chain of islands which stretch
I· between Japan and Taiwan.. The western route
(PN53A) enters the East China Sea through Taiwan
for those wishing to enter the Inland Sea (Seto
Naikai) from the east.
If one cannot avoid sailing to Japan during the
NE monsoon of winter, very strong NW winds can
be expected for the best part of the passage. The
main advantage of a passage during that season is
the absence of typhoons. Early in the year, in

I Strait and then heads for the SW coast of Kyushu,

where a convenient port of entry into Japan is
February or March, an alternative to beating into
the wind by sailing the offshore route nonstop, is

I Nagasaki. From San Fernando and WP PN531, the

initial route goes almost due north towards
Taiwan Strait and WP PNS32. The route crosses the
to head for Okinawa and start cruising among the
Japanese islands from there. Starting from the SW
extremity of the Japanese archipelago, it is then eas-

I shallow Taiwan Bank, where rough seas may be

encountered in strong winds and which also has a
ier to move NE along the chain of islands. The port
of entry on Okinawa is Na ha.

~
I

234

PN54 Philippines to Guam
The steadiness of the NE trade winds and the west-
setting current during winter, when the risk of
typhoons is lowest, precludes the possibility of
making this passage during the safe season. The
only time when a reasonable proportion of fair
winds can be expected is during the SW monsoon
(PN54A). At this time the proportion of easterly
winds is indeed much lower, but the risk of
typhoons is very high. Leaving from San
Bernardino Strait at WP PN541 the route goes
almost due east to WP PN542. From there course
is altered to make landfall at WP PN543, off Guam,
where formalities are completed in Apra Harbour.
PNSS Philippines to Palau
PNSO ROUTES FROM THE P HILIPPINES
Harbour Control should be contacted on arrival on
VHF channels 12, 13, or 16. Cruising boats are nor-
mally directed to the commercial pier for clearance.
If this passage is considered during the NE mon-
soon (PN54B), a better slant should be achieved by
sailing around the north of Luzon passing through
the Babuyan Islands. From WP PN544 a direct
course can be set for Guam and WP PJ\1543.
Because of the difficulty of making easting at
almost any time along this route, and also the risk
of typhoons during most months, an alternative is
to make a detour via Palau (7"20'N, 134 "27'E) and
Yap (9'30'N, 138°08'E) as described in route PN55.
235
 Most boa ts normally sail this route as part of a
longer trip to the South Pacific. The best time for
making this passage is during the winter months
when there is little danger of being caught out by
a typhoon. The first part of tl1e passage is under the
influence of the NE monsoon, which from
December to March can blow quite strongly,
although the NE winds gradually become lighter
in the vicinity of Palau. The North Equatorial
Current has a strong westerly set in this region and
this should be taken into account.
Because of the high proportion of NE and E
winds in the latitude of San Bernardino Strait, an
I attempt should be made to leave the Philippines as
far north as possible to benefit from a better angle
I across the prevailing winds. During the NE mon-
soon, a better sailing angle can be achieved by sail-
ing around the north of Luzon (PN55A) to WP
) PN551 and setting course from there for WP PN552,
off Palau. Boats arriving from the west use Toagel
Mlungui Pass (7"32'N, 134 "29'E) to reach Komebail
1·
PN60 ROUTES FROM HONG KONG
PN61 Hong Kong to Singapore
PN62 Hong Kong to Philippines
PN63 Hong Kong to Japan
PN64 Hong Kong to Guam
PN65 Taiwan to Guam ·
In spite of a large and active local sailing commu-
nity, Hong Kong is visited by few cruising boats.
This is probably explained by Hong Kong's remote-
ness from the most popular cruising routes, but also
because of the relative shortness of the safe sailing
season. Although sailing in the immediate vicinity
of Hong Kong is safe throughout the year because
of the proximity of several typhoon shelters, there
are hardly any cruising areas in the vicinity to tempt
foreign sailors. The situation may change after Hong
Kong reverts to China in 1997 by which time it is
hoped that more of China will be accessible to vis-
iting boats. For the time being cruising in mainland
China is severely limited and foreign yachts may
236
lagoon, on the west side of Babeltuap Island, before
entering Malakai Harbour. This is the official port
of entry into Palau. Yachts must not stop anywhere
before Malakai and the Port Authority must be
informed in advance of a yacht's ETA. Yachts arriv-
ing without a permit, which must be obtained in
advance, may only be allowed to stay for a maxi-
mum three days.
If the passage is made outside the NE monsoon,
the argument in favour of a better sailing angle is
less important and the Philippines may be left from
further south. During the transition period, or at
the very start of the SW monsoon, it is then possi-
ble to leave the Philippines through the Surigao
Strait (PNSSB), east of Leyte Island, and set a direct
course for Palau from WP PN553. This is a short-
er route than the one described previo~sly, but as
it cannot be sailed during the relatively safe win-
ter months, the risk of being caught by a tropical
storm must be weighed up against it.
237
239
239
241
241
only stop at a number of designated ports.
On the edge of the tropics, Hong Kong has a sea-
sonal climate with well marked seasons. The win-
ter from November to April is the time of the NE
monsoon, with cooler temperatures and a lower
humidity. The summer, from May to October, is hot
and steamy with plenty of rain. This is the time of
the SW monsoon. During this period bad depres-
sions from the SE and SSE affect Hong Kong and
these can build up into typhoons. These storms usu-
ally start in the Pacific east of the Philippines and
then move NW. Typhoons are most frequent
between May and October, but they can occur at the
beginning of the NE season as well.
 20°N

" GUAM

o•

PN60 Routes from Hong Kong

PN61 Hong Kong to Singapore

237
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PAC IFIC
as the winds become more easterly south of 20'5.
Favourable winds will be found along most of the
way and even the doldrums should not be too wide
at the recommended time of year.
.? Boats leaving from Puerto Ayora, on Santa Cruz
Island, from WP PS121 , east of Punta Estrada,
should sail a course due south which passes east
of Floreana Island. On this course, depending on
existing weather conditions, the equator will be
crossed at WP PS122. As mentioned earlier, an area
to be avoided if passing south of the Galapagos is
between longitudes 90"W and 95-W and latitudes
3'5 and S'S where several yach ts have reported
unpleasant weather conditions. The area appears
to be an extension of the doldrums with little or no
wind, thundery squalls, and a heavy swell which
makes conditions very uncomfortable. To avoid
PS13 Galapagos to Gambier Islands
This route eschews the well sailed route to the
Marquesas and allows one to reach French
Polynesia from the SE rather than the NE.
Instructions are similar to those for the route from
Galapagos to Easter Island, with the added advan-
tage that as the Gambier Islands lie so much fur-
ther to the west, the SE trades provide an even
better slant for this route which crosses one of the
most deserted areas of the world. A great circle
course can be set as soon as steady SE trade winds
are found. During the southern winter (May to
September), they often reach as far north as the
Galapagos themselves.
In order to avoid an area of confused seas and lit-
tle., wind south of the Galapagos Islands, lying
between longitudes 90 "W and 95"W and latitudes
3 'S and 8 'S, boats leaving from Puerto Ayora
this area, if SW winds are encountered on leaving
the Galapagos, it would be better to stay on the
starboard tack and keep east of meridian 90'W,
even if it means temporarily diverting from the
direct route. Depending on weather conditions, a
course can then be set to make landfall at Easter
Island at WP PS123 north of the island's North
Cape. The NW coast should be· followed to the
main settlement of Hanga Roa. The small port at
nearby Hanga Piko, south of Hanga Roa, has been
improved recently allowing a few keeled boats to
find shelter. The Port Captain should be contacted
on VHF channel 16 on arrival and he will meet the
boat outside the port. Because of the rapidly chang-
ing weather, boats at anchor should never be left
unattended at Easter Island.
(Academy Bay), from WP PS131 , east of Punta
Estrada, should set an initial course for WP PS132
and thence to WP PS133. From there, a great circle
course can be set for WP PS134, SE of Mangareva
lagoon. Because of the reefs extending to windward
on the east side of the large lagoon, Mangareva
should not be approached from the east, but from
the SE. From WP PS134 the course goes west rough-
ly parallel ~o the line of reefs and enters the lagoon
through Southwest Pass. Entry formalities in the
Gambier can be completed at Rikitea, the settle-
ment on Mangareva, the main island of the group.
A tempting stop on the way and close to. the rec-
ommended route is the island of Pitcairn (25 '04'S,
130'06'W), whose isolated community is always
happy to welcome passing yachts.

PS14 South America to Easter Island
Whichever point of departure is chosen, a passage
to Easter Island from any port on the west coast of
South America should present no great problem as
favourable winds can be expected for most of the
way. From ports lying to the north of Callao, a
direct course can be steered immediately on leav-
ing the mainland as favourable winds are preva-
lent in this area during most of the year. Although,
according to the pilot charts, Easter Island lies
slightly outside the SE trade wind belt, the winds
between the island and the continent tend to blow
between E and S most of the time. A direct course
can also be sailed from ports lying further south,
but if westerly winds are encountered, a NW course
should be sailed until the SE trade winds are found.
Those sailing along the. coast of Chile with a
favourable wind and current (route PS14B) should
not set a course for Easter Island before the latitude
PS15 Easter Island to Pitcairn
P510 RO UTES IN THE EASTERN SOUTH PACIFIC
of Valparaiso has been crossed. The same should
be done if intending to call first at Juan Fernand.ez
Islands (Robinson Crusoe, Alexander Selkirk,
and Santa Clara). They are dependencies of Chile
and the main settlement is on Robinson Crusoe in
Cumberland Bay.
Taking as a point of departure the Peruvian port
of Callao, from WP PS141, north of San Lorenzo
Island in Callao Bay, a great circle course is set for
WP PS142, off Cape Roggeven, on the SE side of
Easter Island. The island's south and SW coast is
followed around to the main settlement at Hanga
Roa, where officials. are based and should be con-
tacted on VHF channel 16. There is now a small
port at Hanga Piko, south of Hanga Roa, with room
for a few keeled boats, but the harbour cannot be
entered or left during periods of heavy surge.
289

ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
Fair winds can be expected along this route during
the best part of the year. The most settled weath-
er is in summer, from December to May, when the
SE trade winds extend furthest south. However,
even during these months the trade wind pattern
can be interrupted by spells of squally weather,
rain, and variable winds. A direct course from
Easter to Pitcairn Island leads well to the south of
Dude and Henderson islands, both of which are
uninhabited. As they are nature reserves, landing
is prohibited.
From WP PS151, off Hanga Roa, a direct route
PS16 Pitcairn to Gambier Islands
Thls passage can be made at all times of the year
as both Pitcairn and the Gambier group are very
rarely threatened by cyclones. However, the first
months of the year should be avoided so as not to
arrive in French Polynesia during the cyclone sea-
son there. Best sailing conditions ca.n be expected
either at the beginning or the end of the southern
winter. As this route skirts the southern extremi-
ty of the SE trades, weather conditions can be vari-
able during winter months and westerly gales are
not uncommon. The Gambier Islands should be
approached with caution in thick weather as they
can be hidden by low cloud and currents in their
vicinity can be strong at times.
290
·· .~
can be set for WP PS152, so as to a~proach Pitcairn
from the east. The nearest anchorage to the settle-
ment of Adamstown is in Bounty Bay, off Pitcairn's
NE coast. The small community monitors VHF
channel 16 and a boat will be sent out to meet arriv-
ing yachts. The main anchorage is at Bounty Bay,
but it is only tenable in very settled weather.
Sometimes it may be possible to anchor at Tedside,
on the west side of the island. All anchorages
should be treated with suspicion as several boats
have been lost on Pitcairn as the weather changed
unexpectedly while the crew were ashore.
From WP PS161, NW of Pitcairn a direct course·
can be set for WP PS162, SE of Mangareva lagoon.
Because of the reefs extending to windward of the
large lagoon, Mangareva should be approached
with caution. From WP PS162 the course follows
roughly the line of the reefs and enters the lagoon
through Southwest Pass. In poor visibility it may
be advisable to use the Western Pass, between the
islands of Taravai and Mangareva, as it has the best
markings and is normally used by the supply ship
from Tahiti. Entry formalities in the Gambier
Islands are completed at Rikitea, the main settle-
ment on Mangareva, the largest island of the group.
··'·
PS10 ROUTES IN THE EASTER N SOUTH PACIFIC
PS17 Easter Island to Magellan Strait or Cape Horn
Although the number of boats that make Easter .
Island the starting point for a voyage to the stormy
Southern Ocean is relatively small, the same route
is used for much of its length by boats heading for
the south of Chile. Just as Cape Horn or the Straits
of Magellan are best reached from Easter Island
with the help of the prevailing westerly winds of
higher latitudes, so is the south of Chile. The main
objective after leaving Easter Island is to reach the
region of prevailing westerly winds as quickly as
possible. By taking advantage of every shift of wind
it ought to be possible to make some easting even
before the Roaring Forties are reached, from
where fair, if strong, winds can be expected. The
proportion of gale force winds is highest in the
vicinity of the southern tip of the American conti-
nent, the worst period being the winter months of
June, July, and August and passages during these
months should be avoided. The recommended time
not only has the benefit of better winds en route,
• but also ensures arriving in Tierra de! Fuego and
Patagonia at the best time, which is at the height
of the southern summer.
Taking WP PS171 as a departure point from
Easter Island, the initial course will head in a SSE
direction. As so much depends on weather condi-
tions encountered at the time, WP PS172 has been
given only as a guideline. Boats bound for the
Magellan Strait (route PSI 7A) should set course for
PS173 as soon as the area of prevailing westerly
winds has been reached. Landfall will be made at
PS173 off Cape Pillar. Entering the Strait in heavy
weather should be avoided, because strong cur-
rents create rough seas at the entrance to the Strait.
Those wishing to visit the south of Chile and
explore the Chilean channels on their way to the
Magellan Strait, should make landfall further north
in the approaches to Chacao Channel (route
PS17B). The same suggestion applies as above and
the.latter channel should only be entered in settled
weather and with a fair tide. To obtain this infor-
mation, the Corona Lighthouse should be contacted
on VHF channel 16 to request information on the
state of the tide.
Boats bound for Cape Horn (route PS17C) will
make most of their easting with ti\e prevailing
westerly winds, so that latitude SO'S is only crossed
in about longitude 95W (WP PS175). The course
is then altered for PS176 to pass close to the south
of Cape Horn. In recent years, most boats sailing
this route have stopped in Tierra de! Fuego, either
by entering Beagle Channel immediately after hav-
ing weathered Cape Horn, or by reaching Cape
Horn itself through the relatively more sheltered
channels to NW of it by choosing one of the land-
falls described above.
After rounding Cape Horn, the route can pass
either east or west of Staten Island. If the island is
291

ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFI C
pass~d to seaward, a wide berth should be given
to Cape St John, as a dangerous tide rip extends off-
shore for about six miles making conditions haz-
ardous when the wind blows against the tide.·
Alternatively, the route can pass through Le
Maire Strait, especially if the intention is to pass to .
PS20 ROUTES IN EASTE.RN POLYNESIA
PS21 Gambier to Marquesas
PS22 Marquesas to Tuamotus
PS23 Marquesas to Tahiti
PS24 Marquesas to Northern Cooks
PS25 Tahiti to Austral Islands
PS26 Tahiti to Cape Horn or Magellan Strait
Whether arriving from the north (Hawaii), north-
east (California or Panama), east (Galapagos),
southeast (Easter or Pitcairn Island), or southwest
(New Zealand), one should plan to arrive in French
Polynesia not earlier than the beginning of April,
when the cyclone season is on the wane and the SE
trade wind season is about to begin. Such a timing
will ensure several months of carefree cruising
before the onset of the next cyclone season. Those
with only a limited amount of time can spend about
two months in French Polynesia, provided they
arrive there in June. If one leaves the Society Islands
only after the 14th July celebrations, which is an
occasion few wish to miss, the safe cruising season
in the rest of the tropics is well advanced and one
has to be prepared to push on and probably spend
the coming cyclone season in New Zealand, or
some other safe place outside the tropics. The other
alternative is to remain in the tropics during the
summer, by staying close to one of the relatively
safe harbours downwind from Tahiti, such as Pago
Pago (American Samoa), Vava'u (Tonga), or Suva
(Fiji). For those who decide to stay in the Society
Islands, there are several harbours, both in the
Windward and the Leeward Islands, that are reput-
. ed to be safe in a cy~lone, although the authorities
are increasingly reluctant to allow cruising boats
to remain there during the cyclone season. Indeed,
many sailors plan to spend the cyclone season
there, not heeding the lessons of 1983, when several
cyclones swept through French Polynesia. It is true
that several years can go by without a cyclone hit-
ting these islands, but when a cyclone comes this
way it can wreak havoc. If one is prepared to take
292
'!
the west of the Falkland Islands. Going nohh
t
through Le Maire Strait it is essential to wait fdr a
fair tide and, if at all possible, a fair wind as w¢11.
Further directions for boats heading north into tpe
Atlantic Ocean are given in routes AT26, AT27 ai;td
AS26 (pages 177, 178 and 193). '
293
294
295
296
296
297
this risk and stay in French Polynesia between;
December and March, one should try to be near one'
of the recommended ports. It must be pointed out;!
however, that in recent years the authorities in\
Papeete have occasionally forbidden crews to ;
remain on board their boats during the cyclone sea- !·
son, although the boats themselves may be left 1
unattended in a safe place, such as the marina at l
Raia tea.
Even without the danger of cyclones, summers
ought to be avoided as the weather i~ much less !
pleasant than in winter, when from May to i
October the SE trade winds are normally in full '.·
force in these latitudes, although occasionally they !
can be interrupted by 's qualls and short period.s of i
light winds and calms. During the summer ·
months, from December to March, winds are less 1
predictable and the weather can be hot and.sultry.
The Tuamotus should be avoided during the
cyclone season as no anchorage can be regarded as
really safe. Because of the revolving nature of these
. storms, even a relatively protected anchorage can
quickly turn into a lee shore and the long fetch in
most lagoons can create highly dangerous condi-
tions for boats at anchor.
Satellite navigation has undoubtedly played a
major part in opening the more remote islands, and
especially the Tuamotus, to cruising boats, many
of whose owners would not have dared pass
through those waters without GPS. Although most
of these dangers are now easier to avoid, it must be
remembered that most charts of the area were '
drawn during the last cen~ry and many are quite
inaccurate. Therefore positions obtained by GPS
f
l
 PS20 ROUTES IN EASTERN POLYNESIA

.,,.
PS24 Nuku HIV'!, MARQUESAS 120"W 100'W

PEiRHYN
1061
,P~':,~Hiva Oa
Bora Bora
~
:f}_••.. • 1·. ~
••. "'f£~
TAH1ii 0 ~ ....: ~.·
20•5 ~2!/ ~s
AUSTRAL • • GAMBIER
ISLANDS ~ PS EASTER
268
.----":':~~--
4146 0 1SLAND
PITCAIRN

JUAN
FERNANDEZ
4 0

40' 5

160' W 140' W 100'W SO'W

I
PS20 Routes in Eastern Polynesia

will rarely agree completely with those taken off
from a chart. This calls for extreme caution when
; in the vicinity of reefs or when sailing at night or
in bad visibility. Nor should the strong currents that
sweep through the area be ignored, which makes
it essential to update one's position as frequently
as possible. As many of the anchorages in the
Tuamotus are in large lagoons, the long fetch will
cause uncomfortable, and occasionally dangerous,
conditions in strong winds. Finally, being so
neavily dependent on satellite navigation when
navigating in the South Pacific, and particularly in
such a difficult area as the Tuamotus, a second
backup GPS, possibly portable, would be a wise
investment. Just as useful will be tide tables as well
as detailed charts. In the case of the Tuamotus,
French charts are preferable as they are the most'
recent and are being updated regularly.

PS21 Gambier to Marquesas

293
There are various routes that can be taken to or
through the Tuamotus and the choice depends on
how many islands 011e intends to visit before sail-
ing on to Tahiti. The atolls of Takaroa and Manihi
are the easiest option as there are no dangers en
route from the Marquesas. Having stopped at one
294
or both, the route to Tahiti passes close to Ah.e and
Rangiroa. The alternative is to start further east at
Takume or Raroia and the11 thread one's way
through the islands. One of the easiest landfalls is
at Takaroa, which has a clear pass which can be eas-
ily negotiated in good visibility. As there is a clear
to Tahiti, it is still recornmendecl to Jay a sate course
outside all dangers. The recommended practice in
the past has been to wait and leave the Marquesas
with a full moon, both for improved visibility at
night and to be able to use a wider selection of
celestial bodies in navigation.
The easiest route (P523A) from Nuku Hiva to
Tahiti passes close to Ahe. From WP PS231, SW of
Nuku Hiva, a course should be set for WP PS232,
north of Ahe, from where the course is altered to
pass west of that atoll. The next course alteration,
for WP PS233, will lead through the 20 mile gap
At tuJJ moon, one can sail tne most direct route
(P523B) and thread a cautious course through the
Tuamohts, possibly between Takaroa and Manihi
(WP PS234) and then east of Rangiroa (WP P5235).
Approaching Tahiti from NE, landfall is made NNE
of the entrance into Papeete at WP PS236.. The pass
through the reef leading into the harbour is at
17"32.18'5, 149 °35.1 'W. Arriving boats should pro-
ceed to the quay on the south side of the harbour.
Boats are not normally boarded and the captain is
expected to visit the various offices, located close
to the main cruise s~p quay, during office hours.
295
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACI FIC

PS70 ROUTES FROM

SOUTHERN MELANESIA
PS71 New Caledonia to Fiji 337
PS72 New Caledonia to New Zealand 338
PS73 New Caledonia to New South Wales 339
PS74 New Caledonia to Queensland 339
PS75 New Caledonia to Torres Strait 340
PS76 Vanuatu to New Caledonia 341
PS77 Vanuatu to North Queensland 341
PS78 Vanuatu to Torres Strait 343
PS79 Vanuatu to Solomon Islands 343

~ 160' E 100•
~ ~ ~SOLOMON ISLANDS
It[>

;g

VANUATU
li1'.J 0
\) FIJI t:'J.
Q

20'$

'IJ Lord Howe Island

40'S

160' E 180°

PS70 Routes from Southern Melanesia

336

The routes grouped in this section and the fol-
lowing section PS80 all originate in one of the four
Melanesian countries bordering on the Coral Sea.
Routes from the other Melanesian country, Fiji,
have been dealt with earlier. The western part of the
South Pacific attracts significantly fewer cruising
boats than its eastern part, although there is just as
much to see. One of the main reasons is that by the
time most cruising boats get to this part of the
Pacific they are in a hurry to catch the favourable
season in the Indian Ocean and therefore only have
time to stop briefly in the main ports. As in so many
other parts of the world, the delights of these
islands can only be savoured if one reaches the
more isolated and less frequented places and to do
that one needs time. So it is worth bearing this in
mind and allowing sufficient time for cruising
when planning a voyage through these waters.
Tropical cyclones affect the entire region with the
exception of Papua New Guinea north of approx-
imately latitude lO 'S. The critical period is
December to the end of March when anyone would
be ill advised to be cruising in this region. From
April onwards the weather is good, although the
SE trade winds tend to get almost too strong for
some people' s liking at the height of the southern
winter in July and August, when consistent winds
of around 25 knots are not uncommon. This is why
PS71 New Caledonia to Fiji
Because of prevailing E and SE winds this passage
is mostly on the wind. A good time to sail this route
is early in April, when the danger of a late cyclone
is not great and the SE trades have not yet fully
established themselves. Leaving either from the
P570 RO UTES FROM SOUTHERN MELANESIA
it is best to plan to cruise the area either from south
to north or from east to west. Fortunately this fits
in with most people's plans as the two main routes
originate in either New Zealand or Fiji. The north-
bound route from New Zealand is used by people
who have spent the cyclone season there, while
those coming westward from Fiji usually sail later
in the season, in August and September, both
routes converging towards the Torres Strait and
Indian Ocean.
Although the majority of routes are westbound,
those who intend to sail east across the Coral Sea
should plan to do so either before or after the onset
of the SE trade winds which blow most consistently
between May and September. Usually in early
April the trade winds are not yet fully established
and eastbound passages can be accomplished with-
out great difficulty. However, there is a better
chance of finding favourable winds in late October
or early November at the start of the NW monsoon,
although this must be weighed up against the risk
of being caught out by an early cyclone. The peri-
od when these tropical storms occur in the Coral
Sea should be treated with great suspicion as very
few months are entirely free and cyclones have
been recorded in both the accepted transitional
months ofJune and November.
main island of New Caledonia or from one of the
Loyalty Islands, as much easting as possible
should be made at the beginning of the passage.
Having sailed through Havannah Passage, from
WP PS71 l , SE of the main island of New Caledonia,
337
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
the direct route passes between Mare Island and
Durand Reef. The course leads to WP PS712, north
of Vatulele·Island from where the route continues
to Suva through the Mbengga Channel, where
strong contrary currents can be expected, to WP
PS713. Having entered Suva Harbour through
Daveta Passage, boats must proceed to the quar-
antine anchorage for clearance.
If such a direct course for Fiji cannot be sailed on
account of the wind, and easting has to be made on
a more southerly route, several dangers will be
PS72 New Caledonia to New Zealand
Similar directions apply for this route as those
given for route PS53 from Fiji to New Zealand.
Boats starting off from New Caledonia have a bet-
ter chance of encountering favourable winds as
they are more to the west. Yet from the reports of
boats that have made this passage in recent years
it does appear that the proportion of headwinds
were just as high, if not higher than those encoun-
tered by boats sailing direct from Fiji. Although this
passage has been made at all times of the year
November is considered to be the safest month as
the danger of either an early hurricane or a late
winter gale is not too great.
After leaving Noumea through the Boulari
Pass, from WP PS721, the direct course passes some
100 miles east of Norfolk Island (WP PS722). As
such a direct course can rarely be sailed and the SE
winds likely to be encountered at the start of the
338
passed closely. The first two islands, Matthew
(22 '21'S, 171 '21'E) and H unter (22'24'S, 172'05'E),
are easily visible as they are quite high. Much more
dangerous is the low reef Theva-i-Ra (21 '44'S,
174 '38'E), which should be given a wide berth. The
name of this reef is sometimes spelt Ceva-i-Ra and
is also known by its previous name Conway Reef.
Boats bound for Lautoka, on the west coast of Viti
Levu, which is also a port of entry, should set
course for WP PS714, at the entrance into Navula
Passage.
passage will probably set the boat to the west,
many boats stop at Norfolk Island briefly. The
anchorage off Kingston (29'01'5, 167'59'E) is only
safe in settled weather and should be left if con-
ditions deteriorate. Because from this latitude
onwards the main danger is to be caught out by a
SW gale, any ground lost to the west, whether by
calling at Norfolk Island or staying on the port tack,
can be made up nearer to New Zealand. Landfall
will be made at WP PS723, off North Cape. The
route then continues along the coast to WP PS724,
off Cape Kerikeri at the entrance into the Bay of
Islands. The most convenient ports of entry are
Opua, in the Bay of Islands, or Whangarei, further
down North Island's east coast. To reach the latter,
the course should be set for PS725 in the approach-
es to Whangarei.

PS73 New Caledonia to New South Wales
The only conclusion to be drawn from the large
number of people who have made this passage is
that one can never be sure of the kind of weather
to expect along this route. Favourable winds should
be expected down to about latitude 30'S, as the pro-
portion of easterly winds is generally higher, espe-
cially during the winter SE trade wind season.
Further south, the frequency of SW gales increas-
es as winter approaches. From this point of view
the transitional months between summer and win-
ter are preferable for this passage.
If it is not possible to lay a course for the desired
port because of consistent headwinds, it may be
better to try and reach the Australian coast by the
shortest route and use the south-setting current to
reach ports further south. South of Sandy Cape the
prevailing winds off the coast are westerly from
PS74 New Caledonia to Queensland
PS70 ROUTES FROM SOUTHERN MELANESIA
May to September and NE from Octobe~ to April.
The south going current is generally strongest
around the 100 fathom line. ·
Having left Noumea through Dumbea Pass, from
WP PS731 a direct course can be sailed for Coffs
Harbour and landfall made at WP PS732, off
Solitary Island. Coffs Harbour is the northernmost
port of entry into New South Wales, and because
of the favourable south-setting current it is a con-
venient place to clear into Australia. From there it
is easy to sail to more southern ports along the
coast. Boats taking the direct route from New
Caledonia to Sydney occasionally stop at
Middleton (29'28'S, 159'04'E) and Elizabeth Reefs
(29'55'S, 159'02'E). If not stopping or in unsettled
weather, these reefs should be passed at a safe
distance.
339
ROUTES JN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
Favourable winds can be expected between New
Caledonfa and the Queensland coast throughout
the SE trade wind season, although westerly winds
can sometimes be encountered on routes that lead
to ports in South Queensland, mainly in winter. If
persistent headwinds make it difficult to lay a
direct course for ports lying south of Sandy Cape,
it is better to stay on the port tack, make landfall
further up the coast and use the strong south-set-
ting current to reach the desired port. Because of
the large number of reefs dotted about the south-
ern part of the Coral Sea, to reach ports lying north
of Sandy Cape it is normally easier to sail inside the
Great Barrier Reef, which can be entered through
PS75 New Caledonia to Torres Strait
This route across the Coral Sea lies within the SE
trade wind belt and favourable winds can be
expected throughout the winter months. However,
cyclones can occur in the Coral Sea both during the
summer and autumn months and, although in most
years this passage can be made at any time after the
middle of April, it is safer not to attempt it before
the middle of June.
After leaving Noumea through Dumbea Pass,
from WP PS751 a parallel course to the coast should
be steered to pass between the main island and the
various dangers lying to the west of New
Caledonia. From WP PS752, a new course can be set
for WP PS753 to stay clear of all dangers. This direct
route to the Torres Strait has the great advantage
that it avoid s all known dangers right up to the
entrance into Torres Strait. The route runs parallel
340
several passes. Curtis Channel should be used for
Bundaberg and Gladstone, w hile Capricorn !
Channel is convenient for ports lying further north. J.
Having left Noumea and reached the open sea i
through Dumbea Pass, from WP PS741, a direct +
course can be set for various destinations in South
Queensland. Boats bound for Brisbane should set
a course for WP PS742, east of Moreton Island, in
the approaches to the Queensland capital. If
bound for Bundaberg, landfall will be made at WP
PS743, off Lady Elliot Island, whereas for ports
reached through the Capricorn Channel, such as
Mackay, a course should be steered for WP PS744.
For routes to ports in North Queensland see PS77.
to the Papuan coast to WP PS754 to pass NE of
Eastern Fields, the first dangerous reefs in the east-
ern approaches to Torres Strait. The course should
then be altered to pass clear of Goldie Reef and
enter the Great NE Channel, which goes west of
Bramble Cay. If WP PS754 is reached in good light,
I
it may be possible to use Bligh Channel and stay
south of Bramble Cay. Whichever route is taken,
great care must be taken both in the approaches to
the Torres Strait and in the channels leading
through it as the numerous reefs make navigation
extremely difficult and dangerous. More detailed
directions on the approaches to the Torres Strait are
given in route PS85 (page 348). The continuation of
the route to Darwin, in Northern Australia, is
described in IS11 (page 400).
,.
·r'
JT
t

PS76 Vanuatu to New Caledonia
This passage is rarely made nonstop as most of
those who sail this route try to visit some of the
southern islands of Vanuatu on the way. Permission
to do this should be sought before leaving Vila. It
is also possible to stop at some of New Caledonia's
Loyalty Islands before continuing to Noumea via
Havannah Pass, although in principle one should
have cleared into New Caledonia first. From WP
PS761, SW of Efate, the direct course for Havannah
Pass, at the SE extremity of New Caledonia, goes
right past Lifou Island, at WP PS762. I.f not stopping
at Lifou Island, the pass between it and Mare
should be negotiated in good light before making
for WP PS763, in the approaches to Havannah Pass.
This pass should be negotiated on a flood tide. Due
to the prevailing SE winds the tide sets very strong-
ly through the pass creating large waves when the
ebb tide runs against a strong wind .
The other alternative, that of sailing west from
Vila and reaching New Caledonia through Grand
PS77 Vanuatu to North Queensland ·
PS70 ROUTES FROM SO UT HER N MELANESIA
Passage, is not recommended because of the near
certainty of encountering strong headwinds when
sailing along the west side of New Caledonia.
Because the trade winds are deflected by the large
landmass, SE winds !end to become southerly on
the west side of New Caledonia.
Noumea is New Caledonia's only port of entry
and all boats must clear in there. Approaches into
Noumea are difficult at night and should not be
attempted. If coming from either Boulari or
Havannah Pass and if Noumea cannot be reached
in daylight it is recommended to anchor for the
night and enter the port the following morning.
Arriving boats should contact Port Moselle on
channel 67 to arrange a berth at the visitor's dock.
The marina will contact customs and immigration
for clearance. Although New Caledonia is a
-French overseas territory, a bond is not required
from cruising boats as in the case of French
Polynesia.
341
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
Steady winds and a favourable current usually
ensure a fast passage across the Coral Sea although
there are many reefs waiting to strike the unwary.
Thanks to satellite navigation passages are now
much safer, but utmost attention is still required
when navigating through this area .
An almost direct route can be sailed from Efate
to North Queensland (PS77A) by sailing a middle
course between the various dangers. From WP
PS771, SW of Efate Island, an initial course is set for
WP PS772, north of the d 'Entrecasteaux Reefs. A
slight course alteration is needed to reach WP
PS773 to pass south of Mellish Reef. The route then
goes to WP PS774 to pass halfway betwen Lihou
and Marion Reefs. Finally, a course is set for WP
PS775 from where Flinders Passage can be taken to
reach Townsville, the nearest port of entry into
Australia. This route is also joined by boats com-
ing from Noumea and bound for the North
Queensland coast.
Boats bound for ports lying further north
should stay outside the Great Barrier Reef on a par-
allel course to it and use one of the other passes to
reach the coast. Because of its convenient position
at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, Cairns in
North Queensland is a popular destination for
342
cruising boats. There are extensive reefs on the
direct route from Port Vila to Cairns (PS77B) and
the safest route is to leave them all to port by set-
ting a course for the light on Bougainville Reef
(15'32'S, 147'08'E). From WPPS771, SW of Efate, a
course is set for WP PS776, 12 miles north of Sand
Cay on Diane Bank. From that point, the course can
be altered for WP PS777, two miles north of Euston
Reef light at the entrance into Grafton Passage.
Because of the various dangers, and also strong cur-
rents in the area, the course should not be altered
for Grafton Pass until confident that one is well past
0
the northernmost of Moore Reefs (1S 52'S,
149'10'E). Grafton Pass is recommended as it is
used by commercial shipping and is well buoyed
and lit. Cairns is the official port of entry for that
area and has a good range of yachting facilities.
An easier course across the Coral Sea can be
sailed by those who clear out of Vanuatu at
Luganville, on Espiritu Santo Island, from where
the direct route to Bougainville Light (PS77C) pass-
es clear of all dangers. Having reached the open
.sea, from WP PS778, SW of Espiritu Santo, a course
is set for WP PS776, north of Sand Cay. From there
similar directions apply as described above to reach
Grafton Pass at WP PS777.

PS78 Vanuatu to Torres Strait
This is a long passage across the entire breadth of
the Coral Sea but good winds can be expected
throughout the SE trade wind season. During the
winter months the SE trade winds blow strongly
and consistently along this route and fast passages
have been accomplished, especially between July
and early September. Although December to
March are the months with the highest incidence
of cyclones in the Coral Sea, it must be stressed that
these can occur as late as June and this should be
borne in mind when planning passages across the
Coral Sea.
From WP PS781, SW of Ma tao Tiupeniu Point, on
Efate Island, a direct course can be set for WP
PS782. Froin there, the route runs parallel to the
PS79 Vanuatu to Solomon Islands
PS70 ROUTES FROM SOUTHERN MELANESIA
Papuan coast to WP PS783 to pass NE of Eastern
Fields, the first dangerous reefs in the eastern
approaches to Torres Strait. Course is then altered
to pass clear of Goldie Reef and enter the Great NE
Channel. If WP PS783 is reached in good light it
may be possible to use Bligh Channel and stay
south of Bramble Cay. Whichever route is taken,
great care must be taken both in the approaches to
the Torres Strait and in the channels leading
through it as the numerous reefs make navigation
extremely difficult and dangerous. More detailed
directions on the approaches to the Torres Strait are
given in route PS85 (page 348). The continuation of
the route to Darwin, in Northern Australia, is
described in ISll (page 400).
343
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Having sailed through the island chain of Vanuatu,
the 300 mile passage to the Solomon Islands is
straightforward, especially as the winds tend to be
favourable throughout the SE trade wind season.
During July and August the trades blow strongly,
making this a fast but rough passage. Both at the
beginning and towards the end of the winter sea-
son the trade winds are less consistent and days
with calms or westerly winds are common.
From Luganville the south coast of Espiritu Santo
is followed to WP PS791. From there a course is set
for WP PS792. The course runs almost due north
parallel to the coast before course is altered for WP
PS793 to make landfall SE of Santa Ana Island, a
small island lying close to the east of San Cristobal
Island. During strong SE winds, if bound for
Honiara, it is better to stay in the lee of San
Cristobal, which offers good shelter along its north
coast. Entry formalities can be completed at the
capital Honiara, on the north coast qf Guadalcanal.
A more convenient port of entry into the
Solomons may be Graciosa Bay (10 '44'S, 165'49'E),
on Ndende Island in the Santa Cruz group, lying
almost due north of Vanuatu.

PS80 ROUTES FROM NORTHERN MELANESIA

PS81 Solomon Islands to Papua New Guinea 345
PS82 Solomon Islands to Torres Strait 345
PS83 Solomon Islands to Queensland 346
PS84 Papua New Guinea to Queensland 347
PS85 Papua New Guinea to Torres Strait 348
PS86 Papua New Guinea to Indonesia 349

160' E

o•

<jj] ~
\) VANUATU
'<:>
0
\)
I
20'5

~ NEW CALEDONIA t
f
I
r
r
PS~O Routes from Northern Melanesia
160' E
l
.t
t
344
!
 ' PS80
PS81 Solomon Islands to Papua New Guinea
The cyclone season in the Solomon Islands coin-
cides with the NW monsoon which affects most of
Papua New Guinea and the northwestern half of
the Solomons. Most people try to leave the
Solomons by early December not only to avoid the
approaching cyclone season, but also the head-
winds that can be expected on this route during the
NW monsoon. As the majority of those who sail
between these two countries have usually cruised
along the Solomon Islands chain, the crossing to
Papua New Guinea is hardly an ocean passage. The
best point of departure is Korovou, on Shortland
Island (7'04'S, 155'52'E), where departure formal-
ities can be completed.
Bougainville Island, the nearest island in Papua
New Guinea, has been involved in a dispute with
the Port Moresby government and while hostilities
last yachts should keep well away from the
island. The most popular destination in the area is
Rabaul (4 '12'S, 152 '11 'E), on New Britain Island,
260 miles across the Solomon Sea. This well
protected harbour is also a port of entry for Papua
PS82 Solomon Islands to Torres Strait
ROUTES FROM NORTHERN MELANESIA
New Guinea, its main disadvantage being the fact
that it lies in the proximity of an active volcano,
which has erupted recently. Volcanic activity in the
area is being carefully monitored, but the area
should be avoided until life returns to normal.
Arriving boats should proceed to the main wharf
in the northern part of Simpson Harbour to com-
plete entry formalities. Cruising yachts normally
anchor off the yacht club on the east side of the har-
bour but the club was badly damaged by the lat-
est eruption.
From April to October the winds in the Solomon
Sea blow mostly from the SE. During the transition
period between the SE trade wind season and the
NW monsoon, the winds are variable and there are
also prolonged periods of calm. When negotiating
St George's Channel between the islands of New
Britain and New Ireland, attention should be paid
to the currents, which set to the south during the
NW monsoon and to the north during the SE trade
wind season.
345
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
The chances of a fast passage to the Torres Strait are
best when the SE trade winds are still in force. This
timing wiU also ensure favourable winds west of
the Strait. With the approach of the NW monsoon,
the SE trade winds become Jess reliable and by the
end of September the onward leg from the Torres
Strait will have light winds. The currents on this
route set strongly NW and this should be taken into
account if the course passes too closely to the reefs
off Papua New Guinea.
Boats leaving from Honiara will have an easier
route to sail and also a better wind angle than boats
leaving from ports further west. The route from
Honiara leaves Guadalcanal to port and from WP
PS821, off the NW point of that island, a course can
be set to WP PS822 to pass well clear of Pockington
PS83 Solomon Islands to Queensland
4
The approach of the cyclone season brings an exo-
dus of cruising boats from the Solomons, either
north to Papua New Guinea (route PS81) or south
to Australia. A popular place to spend the summer
is the Queensland capital Brisbane. The route
across the Coral Sea has good winds at least until
September. Those who leave too late can expect
anything, including the possibility of a tropical
depression, which may or may not develop into a
fully fledged cyclone. Extremely strong winds have
been encountered in the Coral Sea in November
when a depression moves over the area.
From WP PS831, off the NW tip of Guadalcanal,
a course can be set for WP PS832 to pass east of
Mellish Reef. The route continues to WP PS833 to
pass between Saumarez and Wreck Reefs. Landfall
346
Reef and Adele Island. The route then continues
along the same latitude south of the Louisiade
Islands to WP PS823 from where a new course is set
for WP PS824, north of Portlock Reef. Another
course alteration is then made for WP PS825, in
Bligh entrance, 10 miles SE of Bramble Cay. From
Bramble Cay the route enters North East Channel.
This well marked channel run~ in a SW direction
for some 130 miles to the Prin~e of Wales Channel
that finally opens into the Arafura Sea. Additonal
details on approaches to the Torres Strait are given
in route PS85 (page 348). The continuation of the
route to Darwin is described in ISll (page 400).
Thursday Island is an official port of entry into
Australia.
is made at WP PS834 in the northern approaches
to Brisbane. There are several reefs en route where
one may be tempted to stop in good weather, the
largest being Chesterfield Reef which has several
anchorages where yachts have stopped in the past.
The reef belongs nominally to France and is admin-
istered as part of its New Caledonia territory. There
is an unattended meteorological station on one of
the cays. There are several passes through the reef,
the widest being Long Island Pass, but it is affect-
ed by the swell, strong currents, and overfalls. The
narrower Pa~sage Pass is calmer and easier to nego-
tiate. There is a protected anchorage off Loop Islet
in the southern part of the large lagoon. The entire
area is an important breeding ground for birds and
turtles.

PS84 Papua New Guinea to Queensland
The attraction of a sheltered sail in smooth waters
tempts most people to go behind the Great Barrier
Reef as soon as they have the Coral Sea behind
them. If coming from Port Moresby, the choice is
large as there are several passes that lead through
the reef, from Flinders Entrance in the north to
Cook's Pass in the south, a distance of some 250
miles. Coming from other parts of Papua New
Guinea, probably the most convenient pass is
Grafton Passage that leads into Cairns, the nearest
port of entry in Northern Queensland. Thursday
Island, in Torres Strait, is also a port of entry, but
only a few boats take this roundabout way from
Port Moresby to Queensland.
The winds in the Coral Sea blow mostly from the
E or SE between April and October so that a more
easterly departure point in Papua New Guinea nor-
mally ensures a better slant across the prevailing
winds. Between May and August the trade winds
can sometimes be very strong, but during the tran-
sitional months they are often light and the
weather can be squally. NW winds predominate in
summer, which is also the cyclone season. Because
of the west-setting current and the many reefs lying
to leeward, navigation in the Coral Sea must be
very accurate and finding the passes through the
Great Barrier Reef can be often difficult.
Having left Port Moresby through Basilisk
Pass, from WP PS841, the safest offshore route
PS80 ROUTES FROM NORTHERN MELANESIA
(PS84A) leads to the east of Osprey and Shark Reefs
to WP PS842, east of Bougainville Reef, which has
a powerful light and provides a convenient point
of reference. A slight course alteration is then made
for WP PS843 outside Grafton Passage. A well
buoyed and lit channel leads into Cairns.
A slightly shorter offshore route (PS84B) can be
taken from Port Moresby to WP PS844 from where
the One and a Half Mile Opening (14 "25'S,
145 "26'E) is used to reach the sheltered waters
behind the Great Barrier Reef on the way to Cairns,
the nearest official port of entry into Australia.
For boats that have cruised the eastern part of
Papua New Guinea, a departure from Samarai
through the China Strait has the advantage of a vir-
tually clear run across the Coral Sea (PS84C).
Having passed Brumer Island and gained the open
sea, from WP PS845, a direct course can be set for
WP PS842, the same waypoint recommended as for
the offshore route from Port Moresby. The course
can then be altered for WP PS843 outside Grafton
Passage.
The Australian authorities must be contacted at
least three hours before arrival in a port of entry on •
either 2182 kHz or VHF channel 16 to request clear-
ance. Stopping anywhere before having cleared in
is strictly prohibited and everyone on board,
including the captain, must have a visa for
Australia.
347
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
PS85 Papua New Guinea to Torres Strait
In the days before satellite navigation, Port
Moresby was the preferred port of departure for the
passage to the Torres Strait. This was a logical
choice as the various difficulties associated with
navigation through the Torres Strait made it
essential to plan the time of arrival in the eastern
approaches to the Strait so as to minimise the risk
of passing close to some of the reefs at night.
Although satellite navigation has greatly simplified
matters, a start from Port Moresby still makes it
easier to time one's arrival more accurately than if
one leaves from a more distant port.
The first danger en route is Portlock Reef, at a
distance of 130 miles from Port Moresby. Goldie
Reef is 20 miles NNW of Portlock. Ideally one
should try to arrive off Portlock Reef in late after-
noon, so as to pass between it and Goldie Reef dur-
ing daylight. The next point to make for is
Bramble Cay, lying some 65 miles further west. The
distance between Portlock and Bramble Cay can be
I covered during the hours of darkness, and as there
is a light with 14 miles visibility on Bramble Cay
this should be sighted before dawn. Such a timing
! would mean that Bramble Cay is passed in the early
morning and that most of the subsequent reefs and
islets will also be negotiated in daylight. The other
alternative, especially for faster boats, is to arrive
I off Portlock Reef in the morning so that the remain-
ing distance to Bramble Cay is covered in daylight.
The disadvantage of the latter alternative is that
Portlock Reef has no light, thus making it very dan-
gerous to arrive in its vicinity at night.
I ' Leaving Port Moresby through Basilisk Pass,
from WP PS851 a course can be set for WP PS852,
north of Portlock Reef. The course is then altered
for WP PS853, in Bligh entrance, 10 miles SE of
Bramble Cay. From Bramble Cay the route enters
348
North East Channel. This well marked channel
runs in a SW direction for some 130 miles to the
Prince of Wales Channel that finally opens into the
Arafura Sea. The continuation of this route is
described in ISll and IS12 (page 400).
The winds on this passage are predominantly
easterly and between June and August they are
often strong. The currents running through the
Strait have a strong westerly set at the height of the
SE trades, but their rates are unpredictable. The
currents are also tidal and in the Strait itself they
run WSW on the flood and NE on the ebb tide. The
strongest sets have been recorded in the Prince of
Wales Channel, where 5 and 6 knot currents are the
order of the day. Another hazard in the eastern
approaches is the shallow water that extends far
offshore so that the depth sounder cannot give a
reliable indication of one' s position. Yet another
cause of confusion are the murky waters met far
offshore caused by a muddy discharge from the Fly
River. The colour of the water gives no indication
of its depth.
Although navigation through this reef strewn
area is not difficult after landfall on Bramble Cay,
it is easier to sail in daylight and spend the nights
at anchor behind one of the many cays. It must be
pointed out, however, that landing on any of the
islands is not allowed, as these belong to Australia
and legally one should clear in first at Thursday
Island. This is impossible for boats coming from the
east, so one should heed the above advice and only
anchor if absolutely necessary and neither go
ashore nor have contact with any other vessel.
Australian Coast Guard helicopters regularly
·overfly the area to ensure that these regulations are
not violated and those who ignore them are severe-
ly punished.

PS86 Papua New Guinea to Indonesia
The difficulties associated with the passage
through the Torres Strait and the long detour to
Port Moresby, persuad es some people to reach
Indonesia by sailing along the north coast of New
Guinea. This northern route is used mostly by boats
that have spent the cyclone season in the eastern
part of Papua New Guinea or have been cruising
in that area and are therefore better poised for this
route. It also gives the opportunity to visit the
Hermit and Ninigo Islands before clearing out of
Papua N ew Guinea at Vanimo (2 '41'S,141 'lS'E).
This is a passage that can be done only during the
SE trade wind season, as during the NW monsoon,
from November to March, both winds and current
are contrary. The transitional period is difficult to
define, as in some years the NW monsoon comes
early, while in others the SE trade winds do not
establish themselves until May. Normally this pas-
sage should not be attempted after the middle of
PS90 ROUTES FROM NEW SOUTH WALES
PS91 New South Wales to New Zealand
PS92 New South Wales to New Caledonia
PS93 New South Wales to Fiji
PS94 New South Wa les to Vanuatu
Australian sailors have the entire South Pacific on
their doorstep, yet reaching most of the Pacific
islands is seldom easy, as the winds between the
east coast of Australia and the island groups to the
east are usually contrary. For this reason most
Australians setting off on a world voyage prefer to
leave the South Pacific until the end of their trip
when most of the sailing will be downwind. For
those whose plans are less ambitious than a cir-
cumnavigation of the world, the accepted practice
PS90 ROUTES FROM NEW SOUTH WALES
November or before the middle of April. Although
the weather along this route is governed by the two
monsoons, the winds are rarely steady in either
direction or strength and there are many days when
they are light or nonexistent. Calms are particularly
frequent during the transitional period. The most
constant SE winds usually occur in July and August
when there is also a very strong NW setting cur-
rent, with rates that can exceed 2 knots.
Jayapura, the capital of the Indonesian province
of lrian Jaya (Western Irian), is the official port of
entry (2 '32'S, 140'43'E). The town has changed its
name to Sukarnapura, while in the colonial past it
used to be known as Hollandia. Yachts without a
cruising permit should enquire at the Indonesian
Embassy in Port Moresby whether they would be
allowed to make a emergency stop in Jayapura
before committing themselves to this route.
350
351
352
353
is to sail first to New Zealand, which makes a much
better stepping off point for a cruis~ among the
South Sea islands than Australia itself. Shorter
cruises from Australia's east coast lead across the
Coral Sea, the more southern destinations, such as
New Caledonia, being reached directly, whereas for
destinations in Papua New Guinea it is usually bet-
ter to stay for a while inside the Great Barrier Reef
before taking an offshore route.
349
RO UTES I N THE SO UT H PACIFIC

160'E 180"
~ ~
~ VANUATU t:::J FIJI
<::. 0
0
\)
20•s

NEW ZEALAND

160' E 180°

P590 Routes from New South Wales

PS91 New South Wales to New Z ealand

350

This passage across the Tasman Sea can occasion-
ally be very rough and it pays to wait for a
favourable forecast before leaving. Lows moving
across the Tasman Sea are accompanied by strong
SW winds, often of gale force, and it may be worth
leaving on the tail of such a gale, which will usu-
ally ensure several days of favourable winds.
Although the proportion of westerly winds is high·
er in winter, a passage between June and September
is not recommended because of the likelihood of
encountering at least one severe gale. The best
months for the crossing are January and February
when conditions are often settled and winds are
light. Although these months coincide with the
cyclone season in the South Pacific, tropical
cyclones rarely find their way to these latitudes,
and even when they do their force is usually spent.
The Tasman Sea is affected more by extra tropical
cyclones, although these normally only touch its
southern part and have a higher frequency in win-
ter, another good reason to avoid a passage during
that time.
PS92 New South Wales to New Caledonia
Because of the danger posed by cyclones during the
summer, this passage should not be undertaken
before the end of March. There is always a high pro·
portion of easterly winds on this route, but more
favourable conditions may be found during the
transition period, in April and early May, before the
onset of the strong easterlies of winter.
The initial course should lead straight offshore
to pass quickly through the current that sets strong-
ly south along the Australian coast. As the route
from southern ports in New South Wales passes
close to Lord Howe Island, a stop there may be con-
PS90 ROUTES FROM NEW SOUTH WALES
The route from southern ports is direct, but a stop
at Lord Howe Island might be considered by those
leaving from northerly ports. Boats leaving from
Sydney on a direct passage to North Island (route
PS91A), from WP PS911 outside Port Jackson, can
set a course for WP PS912 south of the Three Kings,
a group of rocks NW of Cape Reinga. Having made
landfall at PS913, off North Cape, the nearest ports
of entry are Opua, in the Bay of Islands, or
Whangarei.
From ports south of Sydney, a more direct route
(PS91B) leads through Cook Strait to Wellington,
this more southerly route having a better chance of
westerly winds. From WP P5911 outside Sydney,
a course can be set for PS915 off D'Urville island
in the approaches to Cook Strait. From there the
course is altered for WP PS916 in the Cook Strait
before proceeding into Wellington. Wellington
Radio should be contacted on 2182 or 4125 kHz, or
VHF channel 16, not later than 12 hours before
arrival to arrange clearance.
sidered. Most routes also pass close to ;Minerva and
Elizabeth Reefs, which are best avoided, although
it is possible to anchor there in settled weather.
From WP PS921, outside Port Jackson, a direct
course can be set for New Caledonia where land-
fall is made at WP PS922 outside Dumbea Pass.
Noumea is New Caledonia's only port of entry and
all boats must clear there. Approaches into
Noumea are difficult and should not be attempt-
ed at night. Arriving boats should contact Port
Moselle on VHF channel 67 to arrange a berth at the
visitor's dock, where they will be cleared in.
351
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
PS93 New South Wales to Fiji
The near certainty of encountering contrary winds
on the great circle route rules out a direct passage
to Fiji from any port in New South Wales. The rec-
ommended route (PS93A) stays south of latitude
32"5 until longitude 170'E is crossed from where it
gradually curves NE so that the islands are
approached from the south. The initial course
should stay slightly north of east, so as to pass well
to the south of Minerva and Elizabeth Reefs and
! clo~e to Norfolk Island. A stop at either Norfolk or
Lord Howe Island can be convenient to await the
easing of strong easterly winds. WP PS932 is only
a guideline as the course that will actually be sailed
will depend both on existing weather conditions
and the windward performance of the boat in ques-
tion. In fact, a boat that goes well to windward may
be able to sail an almost direct course (PS93B). In
such a case, the initial course should be set to pass
close to the SE of New Caledonia, to WP PS933.
From that point, SE of Kune Island, the direct route
to Fiji passes close to a number of dangers south of
Durand Reef. If such a direct course for Fiji cannot
352
be sailed on account of the wind, and easting has
to be made on a more southerly route, several dan-
gers will be passed closely. The first two islands,
Matthew (22'2l'S, 171 °2.l'E) and Hunter (22 '24'S,
172 '05'E), are easily visible as they are quite high.
Much more dangerous is the low reef Theva-i-Ra
(21'44'S,174 '38'E), which should be given a wide
berth.
Regardless of the route sailed, boats bound for
Suva can make landfall at WP PS934, north of
Vatulele Island from where the route continues to
Suva through the Mbengga Channel, where strong
contrary currents can be expected. If sufficient east-
ing has been made to approach Suva from the
south, landfall can be made at WP PS935, SW of
Kandavu. The course can then be altered for WP
PS936 so that Suva Harbour is entered through
Daveta Passage. Arriving vessels must either tie to
the quarantine buoy or anchor in this area and
a wait clearance.
Boats bound for Lautoka (PS93C), on the west
coast of Viti Levu, from WP PS933 should set course

for WP PS937, at the entrance into Navula Passage.
From there the route crosses Nadi waters to
Lautoka, an official port of entry into Fiji.
Because a passage to Fiji should be avoided dur-
ing the cyclone season, the alternative to a direct
passage is to sail first to New Zealand,.which can
PS94 New South Wales to Vanuatu
Because the islands of New Caledonia straddle
most direct routes to Vanuatu, a stop in Noumea
is included in most passage plans. This is probably
the easier way to reach Vanuatu and directions for
it are similar to those for route PS92.
A direct route from Sydney (PS94A), which
bypasses New Caledonia, leads west of Lord Howe
Island, Elizabeth and Minerva Reefs. The route
heads in the d\rection of New Caledonia to WP
PS942 to pass clear of Fairway Reef and avoid the
other dangers to the west of New Caledonia. The
route then goes due north to WP PS943 and enters
Grand Passage. This is sailed in a NE direction to
WP PS944 before the course can be altered for Port
Vila. Great caution is necessary when navigating
west and north of New Caledonia where the posi-
tions of some reefs are doubtful and others have not
been accurately charted. Approaching the island of
PS90 ROUTES FROM NEW SOUTH WALES
be done earlier mthe year (see route PS91) and con-
tinue to Fiji in Apr.ii. This detour has the prospect
of better winds on the passage to New Zealand and
a better slant through the SE trades on the subse-
quent leg to Fiji. See also route PS64 (page 331).
Efate from the west, landfall should be made at WP
PS945, SW of Efate. The route then enters Mele Bay
to reach Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu. On arrival
in Port Vila boats should tie up to the quarantine
buoy and wait to be cleared in. Port Vila Radio
should be contacted on VHF channel 16 to request
that the relevant officials are inform~ .
Because of the near certainty of encountering
strong easterly winds between Grand Passage and
Efate, an alternative route (PS94B) may be con-
sidered which passes south of New Caledonia. In
this case, the initial course leads to WP PS946, SE
of Kune Island. From there, the course is altered to
pass to windward of the Loyalty Islands to WP
PS947, SE of Mare Island. From that point, the
course can be altered for WP PS945, in the
approaches to Port Vila.
353
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH P ACIFIC

PS100 ROUTES FROM QUEENSLAND

PS101 Queensland to New Zealand 355
PS102 Queensland to New Caledonia 355
PS103 Queensland to Vanuatu 356
PS104 Queensland to Fiji 357
PS105 Queensland to Solomon Islands 358
PS106 Queensland to Papua New Guinea 359
PS107 North Queensland to Darwin 360

160"E 160'

)] Q FIJI
!) VANUATU al
<:. ~
0
"1 20'5

"
I
q Norfolk Island
1,
q Lord Howe Island

160' E

PSIOO Routes from Queensland

A tropical climate, the Great Barrier Reef, and
almost unlimited cruising opportunities have
turned Queensland into a favourite destination not
only among foreign sailors but also Australian
I ·'" ones. The one major disadvantage are the tropical
I', . cyclones which affect both Queensland and the sur-
rounding region, with the exception of Papua New
Guinea north of approximately latitude lO'S. The
critical period is December to the end of March
w)len cruising should be kept to a minimum and
one should always be within easy reach of a safe
harbour. From April onwards the Weather is
good, with strong and steady SE trade winds. In
July and August particularly, the winds can be
quite strong and so it is recommended that, espe-
cially in winter, the Queensland coast should be
cruised from south to north.
Although the main routes are northbound and
thus benefit from the prevailing winds, those who
intend to sail east across the Coral Sea should plan
to do so either before or after the onset of the SE
trade winds which blow most consistently between

354

May and September. Usually in early April the
trade winds are not yet fully established and east-
bound passages are easier to accomplish. Passages
after the end of October should be avoided
because of the danger of early cyclones. The
PS101 Queensland to New Zealand
As a passage during the cyclone season is not rec-
ommended and one in the middle of winter has few
attractions, the best time should be between those
two seasons. In April or May, the danger of
cyclones is acceptably low, the weather is not yet
cold, and the SE trade winds have not reached their
mid-winter strength. The passage can be just as
pleasant at the end of winter, in late October or
early November, when SW gales are also less
frequent.
The route from ports north of Sandy Cape should
pass well to the north of Middleton Reef. The direct
PS102 Queensland to New Caledonia
PS100 RO UTES FROM QUEE NSLAND
period when these tropical storms occur in the
Coral Sea should be treated with great suspicion as
very few months are entirely free and cyclones
have been recorded in both the transitional
months of June and November.
route from Brisbane takes its leave at PS1011, off
Stradbroke Island. From there a course is set for WP
PS1012, halfway between Middleton (29"28'S,
159 "04'E) and Elizabeth Reef (29"55'S, 159 "02'E),
both of which have anchorages which have been
used by yachts in settled weather. The route con-
tinues to WP PS1013, south of the Three Kings, a
group of rocks off New Zealand's Cape Reinga.
Having rounded North Cape, the nearest ports of
entry are Opua, in the Bay of Islands, or Whangarei
(35"44'5, 174 °21 'E).
355
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
I
I
This can be a difficult passage at all times because
I of the certainty of encountering contrary winds for
at least part of the voyage, if not the whole of it. It
is therefore important to wait for a forecast for
westerly winds, which at least will ensure a speedy
start. Such winds are normally generated by fronts
I moving up from the south and the weather asso-
ciated with them is rarely pleasant. Because of the
high proportion of easterly winds in winter it is bet-
ter to plan this passage for the intermediate season.
Similarly, because of the risk of cyclones in the
Coral Sea, this passage should not be undertaken
after the middle of November or before the end of
March.
A direct offshore route can be sailed from ports
in South Queensland, but from ports north of
PS103 Queensland to Vanuatu
:Jr
I
Prevailing easterly winds, contrary currents, and
the·many dangers dotted about the southern part
of the Coral Sea make this one of the most diffi-
11.J 356
Sandy Cape, either Capricorn or Curtis Channels
should be used to reach the open sea before laying
a course for Dumbea Pass, at the SW extremity of
New Caledonia. The route for boats leaving
through Capricorn Channel goes to WP PS1022
halfway between Wreck and Cato Reefs. Boats leav-
ing through Curtis Channel should stay south of
Cato Reef by setting course for WP PS1024. The
routes converge at WP PS1025 outside Dumbea
Pass. This leads into Noumea, New Caledonia's
capital and only port of entry. Approaches into
Noumea are difficult at night and should not be
attempted. Arriving boats should contact Port
Moselle on channel 67 to arrange a berth at the vis-
itor's dock. The marina will contact customs and
immigration for clearance.
cult routes in the South Pacific. Direct passages
from ports in Northern Queensland should not
even be considered and an alternative route cho-
------------------ - -··
sen to reach the islands of Vanua\u without having
to fight the elements all the way. The best tactic is
to make a detour to the south, inside the Great
Barrier Reef. Having reached the open sea via the
Capricorn Channel, the route joins route PS94, if a
nonstop passage to Vanuatu is intended.
An easier alternative is to join route PS102 and
follow directions as far as Noumea from where
Vanuatu can be reached via the islands spread out
among the two groups. Such an approach has cer-
tain attractions as it avoids the dangerous reefs to
the west of New Caledonia and offers the possi-
bility of breaking up the voyage in some of the
islands of New Caledonia or Southern Vanuatu, if
the winds prove too much to cope with.
The suggested direct route takes its leave from
Australia through the Capricorn Channel, from
where a course is set to pass south of the various
reefs and round the island of New Caledonia from
PS104 Queensland to Fiji
Because of both contrary winds and current sailing
a direct route from Queensland to Fiji would be a
very difficult undertaking. The most feasible way
to reach Fiji is by a detour to the south where bet-
·ter winds might be found to make the required
easting (route PS104A). Although the recom-
- - -·
PSlOO ROUTES FROM QUEENSLAND
the south. From a point SE of Kune Island (WP
PS1034),.the course is altered to pass to windward
of the Loyalty Islands to WP PS1035, SE of Mare
Island. From that point, the course can be altered
for WP PS1036, SW of Efate, in the approaches to
Port Vila. The route then enters Mele Bay to reach
Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu. On arrival in Port
Vila, boats should tie up to the quarantine buoy and
wait to be inspected by a health officer. Port Vila
Radio should be contacted on VHF channel 16 to
request that the relevant officials are informed.
Another alternative is to take a route which goes
through Grand Passage, north of New Caledonia,
as described in route PS94. On that route, a better
wind angle may make it possible to stay on the star-
board tack NE of Grand Passage and sail to Espiritu
Santo Island, where it is possible to clear into
Vanuatu at Luganville (15 "31 'S, 167"1O'E) .
mended tactic is to sail south of latitude 32"5, where
the chances of finding favourable winds are high-
er, a slightly more northerly route can be taken
should the winds permit this. Ideally one should
wait for a forecast of westerly winds before leav-
ing. Even with favourable winds, the route should
357
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
remain south of the latitude of Norfolk Island until
past that island, If consistent headwinds are met
while in the vicinity of Norfolk, a stop can be made
there. The anchorage at Kingston (29·01·s,167.59'E)
is not considered safe and should be left if the
weather threatens to deteriorate.
Preferably one of the ports in South Queensland
should be taken as a departure port. From WP
PS1041, off Stradbroke Island, the initial course
goes to WP PS1042, south of Norfolk Island. From
there, the course should start curving NE. If a direct
course can be sailed from WP PS1042 to Fiji, atten-
tion must be paid to Theva-i-ra Reef, also known
as Conway Reef (21 "44'S, 174 "38'E), which will be
passed closely. Having made landfall off Navula
Passage, at WP PS1045, that pass will be taken
through the reef into Nadi Waters and on to
Lautoka to complete entry formalities into Fiji.
Depending on weather conditions and the
windward performance of the boat in question, a
PS105 Queensland to Solomon Islands
Although this passage can be made at any time out-
side of the cyclone season, the months of July and
August ought also to be avoided as it is the time
when the SE trade winds attain their peak and sail-
ing conditions can be quite rough. Because of the
numerous reefs that have to be avoided in the Coral
Sea, there are various routes that leave from the
Australian coast. Boats leaving from Brisbane
should set a course for WP PS1053 to pass safely
between Wreck and Saumarez Reefs. The route then
passes between Kenn and Frederick Reefs to reach
358
more direct route (PS104B) passing close to New
Caledonia may be sailed. Although shorter, such
a route may not be necessarily easier as there is a
higher chance of encountering contrary winds on
the subsequent leg between New Caledonia and
Fiji. From WP PS1041, an initial course will be
sailed to WPs PS1043 and PS1044, SE of the main
island of New Caledonia. From there, the route
passes close to a number of dangers south of
Durand Reef, before a course can be set for WP
PS1045, if the intention is to make for Lautoka. The
alternative, if the necessary easting can be made,
is to head for Suva, in which case landfall should
be made at WP PS1046, north of Vatulele Island.
From that point, the Fijian capital will be reached
through Beqa Channel, separating the island of that
name from Viti Levu. Daveta Passage leads into
Suva Harbour where arriving boats should go to
the quarantine anchorage and wait to be cleared.
WP PS1054, east of Mellish Reef.
Boats which have reached the open seas through
Capricorn Channel from WP PS1052 should set a
course for the same waypoint PS1053. The course
can then be altered for WP PS1054 to pass east of
Mellish Reef. From there a clear route leads to WP
PS1055, off the NW tip of Guadalcanal. The capi-
tal Honiara is on the west side of the same island.
Boats should proceed to the anchorage off Point
Cruz Yacht Club and contact Honiara Radio on
VHF channel 16 and request clearance.

PS106 Queensland to Papua New Guinea
There are two main routes crossing the Coral Sea
from Queensland to Papua New Guinea, one that
goes direct to the capital Port Moresby (PS106A),
the other to Samarai (PS106B), a small island off the
SE extremity of New Guinea. The latter route is
taken by those who wish to cruise in the outer
islands before heading for Port Moresby and
beyond. Because Port Moresby is downwind of all
other possible destinations, it is a mistake to go
there first as it can be very tough sailing against the
boisterous SE trades to reach the smaller islands
east of 'ew Guinea. If the destination is one of
those islands, Samarai provides a most convenient
port of entry.
For the direct passage to Port Moresby from ports
in North Queensland it is better to stay inside the
Great Barrier Reef until almost due south of Port
Moresby. Cairns is the last port in Queensland
where exit formalities can be completed and
although boats are allowed to day sail inside the
Great Barrier Reef after having cleared out of
Australia, landing either along the coast or on one
of the offlying islands is prohibited.
From Cairns, one has the choice of either taking
the inshore route as far as Lizard Island and reach-
ing the open sea through the One and a Half Mile
Opening, or going outside the Great Barrier Reef
through Grafton or Trinity Passage. In good light
the latter can be easily negotiated and is more con-
venient than Grafton.
The course from the One and a Half Mile
Opening (14 '25'S, 145'26'E) is free of any dangers
PS100 ROUTES FROM QUEENSLAND
all the way to Port Moresby. From WP PS1061 out-
side of that passage a course can be set for WP
PS1062 at the entrance into Basilisk Pass, which
leads into Port Moresby. Boats should proceed to
the Royal Papua Yacht Club where visiting yachts
sometimes find docking space. The captain should
then visit the various offices to complete the
formalities.
The alternative route to Samarai can leave the
Great Barrier Reef by a multitude of passes, Grafton
Passage just outside Cairns being one of the best.
Because of the direction of the prevailing winds, the
more northerly the starting point of this passage,
the closer it will be to the wind. As winter passages
across the Coral Sea can be quite rough, this is an
aspect that should be considered when planning
this route. The strong winds coupled with the west-
setting current make it necessary to do some east-
ing whenever the winds permit this.
Having left Cairns and gained the open sea
through Grafton Passage, from WP PS1063, outside
that passage, an initial course is set for WP PS1064,
east of Bougainville Island. The route then cross-
es the Coral Sea to make landfall at WP PS1065, SW
of Brumer Island, off the Papuan coast. Sufficient
time should be allowed to be able to cover the
remaining 30 miles to Samarai in daylight, where
entry formalities into Papua New Guinea can be
completed. If there is not enough time to reach
Samarai in daylight, it is safer to anchor off the
mainland coast for the night. A good anchorage can
be found behind Deirina Island, close to the Strait.
359
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
PS107 North Queensland to Darwin
There are two alternatives to reach Australia's
Northern Territory from its east coast, either by an
inshore route that keeps close to the coast and stays
inside the Great Barrier Reef or an .offshore route
that goes through the Torres Strait using the main
shipping channels. The inside route is well
buoyed, so it can be done nonstop and night sail-
ing, although difficult, is not impossible. However,
most yachts sail this route in day hop§ as there are
plenty of anchorages or small ports in which to stop
for the night. Having passed the top of Australia
at Cape York, the Sea of Arafura is reached through
the intricate Endeavour Strait.
Those who wish to sail offshore will have to use
one of the passes through the Great Barrier Reef to
reach the open sea. The safest, but also longest, way
through the Torres Strait is through the main ship-
ping channel, which is well lit and buoyed. To join
this channel, from WP PS1071 outside the One and
a Half Mile Opening north of Lizard Island the
route leads almost due north to WP PS1072 pass-
ing halfway between Eastern Fields and Ashmore
360
;
I .
Reef. Maintaining a northerly heading to WP
PS1073, the course is then altered for WP PS1074,
SE of Bramble Cay in Bligh Entrance, the gateway
into Torres Strait. From there, the main shipping
channel should be followed to reach the Arafura
Sea. The well marked channel runs in a SW direc-
tion for 130 miles to the Prince of Wales Channel.
From there, the rest of the route to Darwin is the
same as that for boats having taken the inshore
route. From PS1075, west of Thursday Island, a
westerly course leads clear of all dangers to WP
PSl 076. From there the course can be altered to pass
through Dundas and Clarence Straits, although the
longer route around both Melville and Bathurst
Islands is recommended. From WP PS1077, NW of +
Bathurst Island, a southerly course leads past Cape t
Fourcroy in the approaches to Darwin, from
w here a buoyed channel leads into the harbour.
Arriving boats should contact Darwin Port
Authority on VHF channel 16 or HF 2182 kHz and
proceed to Fisherman's Wharf for clearance.
 14
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
he winds and weather of the entire Indian
T Ocean are dominated by the monsoons, which
although affecting primarily the northern half of
the ocean also have a bearing on the weather pat-
tern of the tropical South Indian Ocean. The NE
monsoon prevails when the sun has a southern dec-
lination and the SW monsoon when the sun's dec-
lination is north.
Northeast monsoon
A predominantly NE wind blows during the win-
ter months in the North Indian Ocean, Bay of
Bengal, and the Arabian Sea. The wind is very
steady and constant over most parts of the North
Indian. Ocean, blowing with an average 10- 15
knots; .its strength diminishing towards the equa-
tor. Ori ·rare occasions the monsoon can reach gale
force, but for most of the time sailing conditions can
be described as near perfect as possible. There are
two areas in which the monsoon is less reliable and
the winds more variable. In the Arabian Sea, north
of latitude 20 'N, the weather pattern is sometimes
affected by the passage of d epressions to the north
of the area. The other area lies to the SE of Sri
Lanka, between latitude S'N and the equator,
where winds are less constant in strength and direc-
tion, the normal direction of the wind being
northerly. Further east, in the Malacca Strait, the
monsoon is also Jess pronounced than elsewhere.
The NE monsoon lasts from November to
March, beginning earlier in the northern part of the
region where it is well established by the middle
of November. Towards the equator it does not
arrive in full strength until December. The winter
monsoon is preceded and followed by a transi-
tional period as it is replaced by the SW monsoon
and vice versa. This transitional period coincides
with the movement across the region of the
Intertropical Convergence Zone which separates
the air masses of the northern and southern hemi-
spheres. The ITCZ is most active in April-May and
October-November, which are also the months
when most cyclonic storms occur over the North
Indian Ocean. During this transitional period the
weather ls often squally and the w inds can reach
gale force in these squalls. Otherwise this period
can be compared to the doldrums of other oceans,
with light winds and calms, which are gradually
replaced by the coming monsoon. This doldrum
belt is not so d istinctly defined as in the Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans.
Southwest monsoon
The heating of the Asian land mass during the sum-
mer months creates a large area of low pressure
over the NW part of the Indian subcontinent. This
causes the SE trade wind of the South Indian Ocean
to be drawn across the equator where it joins the
general movement of air that flows in a ijnticlock-
w ise d irection around the area of low pressure
lying over India. This is the SW monsoon which
is felt from June to September in the same areas as
its NE counterpart. The SW monsoon is a consis-
tent w ind blowing at an average 20 knots for long
periods and frequently reaching gale force. An area
lying about 200 miles to the east of Socotra Island
361
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH I NDIAN OCEAN

is reputed to be the windiest spot in the Indian
Ocean with a frequency of gales in July similar to
that of Cape Horn in summer! The winds dimin-
ish gradually in strength_during August, and by
September both the strength of the wind and its
di.J'.~ction become less constant. In October and
November, the winds are often light until the
arriyal of the·1<:rn monsoon. The weather during the
sw·i:nonso<;m is overcast and often unsettled with
,heavr rruiµalf.
I Tropit'al Storms
I Tropical storms or cyclones occur in the Arabian
Sea and the Bay of Bengal. The two periods of the
I year when their frequency reaches a maximum
i coincide with the transitional period between the
two monsoons. The first period of cyclonic activ-
I ity is at the beginning of the SW monsoon from late
I
I
I
I
I
I
i·
I
I
I
May to the middle of June. The second period coin-
cides with the onset of the NE monsoon and lasts
from the end of October to the second ha If of
November. Most of these storms form in the vicin-
. ity of the ITCZ when it is situated between latitudes
S'N and 15"N.
Most of the storms that occur in May and June
are bred in the Arabian Sea from where they move
either in a NW and W direction, or in a N direction
recurving towards the NE and the coast. Some of
the cyclones that form in October and November
in the Bay of Bengal move westward ac~oss South
India into the Arabian Sea. Both in the Arabian Sea
and Bay of Bengal, October has the highest fre-
quency of cyclones. Their frequency decreases in
November and they are rare in December and
January, none having been recorded in February
and March. After the middle of April the likeli-
hood of a cyclone begins to increase.

- + - ___. - - - - -
Southern Ocean Current

Indian pcean currents - NE monsoon

362
.:.
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH INDIAN OCEA N
Currents
The currents of the North Indian Ocean follow a
seasonal pattern because of the monsoons and
reverse their direction under their influence. The
Northeast Monsoon Current occurs during the NE
monsoon and reaches its peak in February. It is
located between the equator and latitude 6 "N and
has a westward set. Its counterpart is the Southwest
Monsoon Current which occurs from May to
September and can be considered to be a continu-
ation of the Somali Current. This current can attain
very high rates, especially off the coast of Somalia
and in the vicinity of Socotra, where some of the
strongest sets in the world have been recorded,
with rates of up to 7 knots. Although the initial set
is NE, the current becomes east in the open waters
of the Arabian Sea until it reaches the landmass of
India and turns SE.
At the time of the NE monsoon, the Somali
Current flows SW along the African coast as far as
~ .
the equator where it meets the north flowing East
Africa Coast Current. In December and January, the
current turns east and becomes the Equatorial
Countercurrent.
The Equatorial Countercurrent is the only cur-
rent of the North Indian Ocean which does not
reverse its direction as a result of the monsoons.
However, its strength is reinforced during the tran-
sitional periods between the two monsoons in
April-May and October-November. It sets east
throughout the year and lies to the north of the
west-setting Equatorial Current. The Equatorial
Countercurrent reaches its southern limit in
February, at the height of the NE monsoon, when
it sometimes flows very close to the Northeast
Monsoon Current. This means that by moving
slightly to the north or south, it is possible to shift
from a west-setting to an east-setting current. The
southern limit of the Countercurrent is always
south of the equator, regardless of season.
363
 15
ROUTES IN THE
NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
ompared to the other two great oceans of the
C world, the Indian Ocean is crisscrossed by a
relatively small number of cruising routes. One rea-
son for this is the smaller number of sailing boats
that spend any length of time cruising as opposed
to crossing this ocean as part of a world voyage.
The routes are governed by the predictability of the
weather, the seasons being much better defined
than anywhere else. The regularity of the monsoons
was recognised by early navigators who knew how
to take full advantage of the seasonal wind pat-
terns. Because of this regularity it is very easy to
plan a voyage well in advance so as to make a par-
ticular passage at the optimum time. This applies
both to the northern half of the ocean, which is
dominated by the NE and SW monsoons, and to its
southern half which is under the influence of the
SE trade winds.
There are two major routes crossing the Indian
Ocean, both of which start from the Torres Strait.
For those who wish to cruise in the Mediterranean
or intend to reach southern Europe by the shortest
route, the logical way leads through_the North
Indian Ocean and Red Sea. For those who wish to
reach the Atlantic by way of the Cape of Good
Hope, the d irect route leads across the South Indian
Ocean to South Africa.
Most other routes in the Indian Ocean are vari-
ations of the above two. For boats sailing in the
North Indian Ocean, the harbour of Galle in Sri
Lanka continues to be a popular port of call which
does not seem to have been affected by political
troubles in that coun try. Most boats arrive in Galle
from Thailand or Malaysia. They are mostly
bound for the Red Sea and have waited in SE Asia
to make the crossing of the North Indian Ocean at
the optimum time.
In spite of India's many attractions, most cruis-
ing boats continue to bypass this great country,
364
mostly because of the complicated and lengthy for-
malities to which visiting yachts are submitted by
Indian officials. For similar reasons, few boats ven-
ture into any of the Gulf states.
The favourable season for a passage across the
North Indian Ocean is during the NE monsoon,
when almost perfect sailing conditions can be
expected. Although this season lasts from
December to March, passages made in January and
February have the advantage that the
Mediterranean is reached after the coldest weath-
er is over and the cruising season is beginning.
The Bay of Bengal has typical monsoon weath-
er. The NE monsoon begins in October in northern
areas and is established only in November further
south. It blows steadily with fine dry weather until
April, when the weather becomes hot, still, and
oppressive. The SW monsoon only establishes itself
around the middle of June, but quickly becomes
strong, around 20-25 knots and blows steadily until
August when it starts to decrease, disappearing in
October. Cyclones are more numerous in the Bay
of Bengal than in any other area of the Indian
Ocean, although they are som etimes shorter and
less severe. They can occur from April through to
December, but are most frequent in July and
October at the change of monsoons.
Weather conditions are very similar in the
Arabian Sea and it is the seasonal winds of this sea
which gave rise to the word 'monsoon' meaning
season. As in other parts of the North Indian Ocean,
the NE monsoon has the better weather. The wet
season coincides with the SW monsoon, which
commences in May in the south and spreads over
the whole area by June. There is usually squally
weather at the monsoon changeover. On the
Indian coast the SW monsoon arrives with a
sudden burst of wind from the east, heavy rain and
thunder for several hours before the SW winds take

over. This burst of the monsoon is preceded by a
week of vivid lightning which disappears every
day when the sun sets. The SW winds in the
Arabian Sea are very stong and can blow at 30
knots for several days. There is a very high fre-
quency of gale force winds especially near the
island of Socotra during the month of July. In Sep-
tember the winds start weakening and the mon-
soon breaks up and disappears by October.
Cyclones occur at two periods of the year which
coincide with the monsoon changeover. April to
July is one period, with the highest frequency in
June, while October has the highest frequency in
the other period, although cyclones can occur from
September through until December. Most cyclones
curve NW to strike the shores of the Arabian
Peninsula or else tend to recurve to the NE towards
India and Pakistan.
The NE monsoon lasts from October to April,
although the winds are diverted to blow more east-
erly into the Gulf of Aden, blowing SE or S through
the Bab el Mandeb Strait into the Red Sea. From
IN10 ROUTES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA
IN11 Singapore to Western Malaysia
IN12 Western Malaysia to Thailand
IN13 Western Malaysia to Sri Lanka
IN14 Thailand to Sri Lanka
IN15 Thailand to Singapore
0' BO'E
IN10 Routes from Southeast Asia
IN10 ROUTES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA
June until August the SW monsoon takes over,
blowing strongest in July with frequent winds
around 30 knots. During the SW monsoon, a strong
local land breeze called the kharifblows for up to 30
miles off the African coast. Reinforcing the SW
wind, it can reach gale force during the night and
is very dry, full of dust and sand off Africa. In a sim-
ilar fashion a strong Nor NW wind called the belat
blows off the Arabian coast from December to
March. Again it starts at night, is full of dust and
sand, and can reach 30 knots in some coastal areas.
There is sometimes poor visibility due to haze or
mist, especially along the Arabian coast during the
SW monsoon. Very rarely cyclones stray with little
warning from the Arabian Sea into the Gulf of
Aden. The dangerous months are June and October.
Note: Navigators are warned that the position of
the Maldive Islands do not agree with current GPS
observations and therefore the islands should be
approached with utmost care. It is stressed that any
waypoints are only given as guidelines and
should not be relied upon when making landfall.
366
368
368
369
370
365
ROUTES I N THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
The main cruising route leads from Singapore
through the Malacca Strait into the Bay of Bengal.
It is used mostly by boats on a world voyage from
the South Pacific to the North Indian Ocean and the
Red Sea. They are joined in Singapore by boats
coming from the countries of the Far East, mostly
from Hong Kong and the Philippines. The number
of boats sailing through Southeast Asia in the oppo-
site direction is much smaller. Pacific routes from
Singapore are described on page 225.
Being so close to the equator, Singapore has a hot
and humid climate, which varies little throughout
the year. Calms and light winds occur throughout
the year. The NE monsoon begins in November,
although the NE winds are deflected and appear
at the beginning of this period as a NW monsoon.
By January NE winds are established but they do
not blow as strongly or as steadily as over the South
China Sea. From April onwards the SE trade winds
penetrate from south of the equator, the winds
often having a southerly component. Between
April and November the area is affected by suma-
tras, thundery storms with strong winds, which
blow across from Sumatra and last for several
hours.
Although within the monsoon areas of the Indian
Ocean, the weather in the Malacca Strait is highly
influenced by local conditions, and variable winds
with regular land and sea breezes occur at all times
of the year. The SW monsoon is blocked by the high
island of Sumatra, while the Malaysian peninsula
does the same to the NE monsoon. January to
March normally has the best weather, fewer
IN11 Singapore to Western Malaysia
366
squalls, and less rain as the NE monsoon penetrates
into the area. Even in this season it is possible to get
NW or W winds for some days. March and April
are variable and the SW monsoon starts early in
May, being strongest in July and August. The SW
winds are strongest in the northern portions of the
Malacca Strait, variable from SE to SW with cairns
in the centre and more SE in ~outhern areas
towards Singapore.
Sea and land breezes occur on both shores of the
Malacca Strait and up to 20 miles offshore. The sea
breeze begins about mid-morning and reaches a
maximum in the afternoon, dying away at suriset.
The strength of the breeze can be augmented to 20
knots if it combines with the prevailing monsoon
or can remain light and variable if the monsoon
opposes the breeze. Conditions vary greatly from
place to place. On the Malaysian coast the night
land breeze can be very strong, starting in the
evening and sometimes blowing hard all night.
Further up the coast towards Thailand, the SW
monsoon blows more steadily and stongly than in
the Malacca Strait, lacking the shielding effect of
the large island of Sumatra. SW winds dominate "I
from May to September with their maximum
steadiness in July and August. On the other hand
the high landmass of Thailand shelters this coast
from the NE monsoon, which tends to have a more
northerly component than elsewhere. Very rarely,
about once every fifty years, tropical storms come
across from the Bay of Bengal and reach the Gulf
of Siam.

Although a passage through Malacca Strait can be
undertaken throughout the year, the most settled
weather is during the NE monsoon, when the fre-
quency of squalls is much lower than during the
opposite season. The notorious sumalras are more
frequent during the SW monsoon, and because they
are accompanied by heavy rain and gale force
winds they can make navigation difficult, the sit-
uation being also complicated by the large amount
of shipping.
Another feature of navigation in Malacca Strait
are the strong tidal currents which, combined with
the normally light winds, make it more convenient
to anchor between tides than to try and sail against
the current. This can be easily done as there are
anchoring depths all along the sides of the strait
and there are sufficient protected places where one
can stop for a few hours. The Malaysian side is
preferable if this passage is done in shorter
stages. Light winds and calms are more frequent
during the day, so it is better to sail at night when
breezes are steadier and the weather is generally
more pleasant. One hazard, however, that is
almost impossible to avoid at night are the numer-
ous fish traps that line the two sides of the strait,
so it is a good id ea to keep out of shallow water
during the hours of darkness.
Very few, if any, voyages along the west coast of
Malaysia are made without stopping and for this
reason this route has been divided into two, with
a break at Port Klang where most northbound boats
usually interrupt their journey. There are several
ports between Malacca and Penang that can be vis-
ited by northbound boats from Singapore. Entry
formalities for Malaysia can be completed at
Malacca, where it is possible to come alongside
other boats moored on the banks of the river.
Taking WP INlll, at the entrance into the Malacca
IN10 ROUTES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA
Strait, as a point of departure, the route runs par-
allel to the Malaysian coast to WP IN112. A first
stop can be made at Muar (2 '02'N, 102 "34'E), which
is an official port of entry into Malaysia.
Alternatively, one may continue to WP IN113, off
Panjang Island, in the approaches to Malacca
(2'15'N, 102'35'E). WP IN114 brings one to the
south entrance to the channel leading into Port
Klang, Malaysia's main port serving the capital
Kuala Lumpur. South Klang Strait leads into the
port, where the Royal Selangor Yacht Club is locat-
ed on its eastern side (3 '00.3'N, 101 '23.S'E).
Visiting boats may use the facilities of the yacht
club, whose office will also assist with the clearance
formalities.
Northbound boats will leave the port through
North Klang Strait and pick up the offshore route
at WP IN115. The route continues parallel to the
Malaysian coast to WP IN116 west of the Sembilan
Islands. Ten miles further north, the island of
Pangkor hides the entrance into Dindings river and
the small town of Lumut. If a stop in Penang is not
intended, the route continues offshore that island.
Otherwise, WP IN117 marks the entrance into
South Channel, which leads to the narrows sepa-
rating Penang from the mainland. Access under the
bridge joining Penang to the mainland is prohib-
ited without written permission, so if one does not
have such permission, one should either anchor
south of the bridge or use North Channel. To clear
into Malaysia at Penang, one has to visit customs
in Georgetown, whereas the immigration office is
in Butterworth on the mainland. For most north-
bound boats, the last stop in Malaysia is the island
of Langkawi, whose main attraction is that it is a
duty-free area. WP IN118 is off Tyson Strait lead-
ing into the perfectly protected Bass Harbour.
367
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN O CEAN
IN12 Western Malaysia to Thailand
The best season for this route is during the NE
monsoon, when the weather is most settled,
although winds for this northbound passage are
not always favourable. The main cruising attraction
on Thailand's west coast is the island of Phuket and
the surrounding area.
Boats leaving from Georgetown, Penang's main
town and harbour, should use North Channel to
reach the open sea. As most northbound boats stop
in Langkawi on their way to Thailand, from Penang
and WP'IN121 the course leads to WP IN122 off
Tyson Strait, which opens into Bass Harbour.
Whether stopping in Langkawi or continuing
IN13 Western Malaysia to Sri Lanka
368
f
;
1
directly to Phuket, from WP IN123, west df
Langkawi, a course can be set for WP IN124,
halfway between Besi and Tenga islands in the
Butang group, which belong to Thailand. From
there the route continues in a NW direction past
several offlying islets and rocks to WP IN125, off
Ao Chalong and Phuket harbour. Boats can anchor
in the well protected bay at Ao Chalong, from
where the captain has to make his own way into
Phuket Town to complete entry formalities .
Alternatively one can continue north for another
five miles into Ban Nit Marina, which is reached via
a one mile Jong channel.
.'
i
.\
l
j
...

The best passages along this route are made
between January and March, when the NE mon-
soon blows consistently over the North Indian
Ocean. The passage should not be undertaken too
early before the monsoon has had time to establish
itself, as steady winds can rarely be relied upon
before the middle of December. A start from
Singapore or Malaysia in early January has the best
chance of excellent winds both on the leg to Sri
Lanka and on to the Red Sea. Much less favourable
conditions will be encountered during the transi-
tional period, in April and October- November,
when westerly winds are quite common and there
is a high risk of cyclones in the Bay of Bengal.
This passage is not recommended during the SW
monsoon, both on account of the contrary winds
and the danger of cyclones in the Bay of Bengal.
Although boats have tried to reach Sri Lanka dur-
ing the SW monsoon by sailing on a southerly
course after passing the northern extremity of
Sumatra, in the hope of making their westing south
of the equator, this is an extremely difficult passage
and should be avoided if at all possible. A more
logical alternative is to reach the Indian Ocean from
· Singapore via Sunda Strait and then follow direc-
tions as for route IT12 (page 384).
During the NE monsoon boats leaving from ports
in the south of the Malacca Strait or even Singapore
should sail on the Malaysian sid~ until the north
of Sumatra can be fetched on the starboard tack.
There are two convenient ports from which boats
IN14 Thailand to Sri Lanka
INlO ROUTES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA
normally set off on this passage, both of them being
located on islands off the Malaysian coast. Boats
leaving from Penang (route IN13A) will reach the
open sea through North Channel and take their
departure from WP IN131. Another popular
departure point is Langkawi (route IN13B), in
which case the passage will start from WP IN132,
in Tyson Strait. The direct route to the southern tip
of Sri Lanka passes between Rondo and Great
Nicobar Island. From either of those departure
points a course should be set for WP IN133. It is
normally possible to call at Sabang, a small port on
0
the island of We (S 53'N, 95 °19'E), off the northern
coast of Sumatra, where yachts have been allowed
to stop briefly even if they were not in the posses-
sion of an Indonesian cruising permit. Having
passed Sumatra, from WP IN133 the course ls
altered for WP IN134, off Dondra Head, the south-
ern tip of Sri Lanka. The island's south coast ls then
followed to Galle, which is entered through the
Eastern Channel. The town of Galle is on the west
side of the large bay, whereas the small port is in
the NE corner of the bay in a part of the town called
Magalle. The entrance into the port is difficult to
find in the dark, so arrivals should be either timed
for daylight or one can anchor for the night in the
NE corner of the bay and enter the port the fol-
lowing morning. The services of a local agent are
required to complete the necessary fomalities and
such an agent will normally visit the boat soon after
arrival.
369
ROUTES JN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
At the height of the NE monsoon, between
January and March, the winds along this route can
be perfect and some of the most pleasant passages
have been experienced on this route. Directions are
very similar to those given for route INI3.
Taking one's d eparture from Phuket at WP
IN141, east of Ko Keonoi, there is a choice of routes
to pass either to one side or the other of the Nicobar
Islands. WP IN142, south of Great Nicobar, offers
the easier option and is the recommended route
(IN14A). The alternative (IN14Bl is to set course for
WP IN143, north of Little Nicobar, and pass
through Sombrero Channel. The disadvantage of
the latter is that there will be more dangers to avoid
and also more small boat traffic, especially at night.
IN15 Thailand to Singapore
370
The Nicobars belong to India and cruising boats
have not been allowed to stop there in the past.
Having passed the Nicobars, the course can be
altered for WP IN144, off Dondra Head, the south-
ern tip of Sri Lanka. From there, the route runs par-
allel to the island's south coast to Galle Harbour,
which is entered through Eastern Channel.
Approaching Galle from the east, especially at
night, Goda Gala rocks, SE of the harbour, should
be given a wide berth and the bay approached from
the south. The town of Galle is on the west side of
the large bay, whereas the small port is in the NE
corner of the bay in Magalle. Boats are normally
met by an agent whose services are needed to com-
plete entry formalities.

The west coast of Thailand south of Phuket can be
cruised throughout the year as it is not affected by
the cyclones that originate in the Bay of Bengal,
although the more pleasant weather occurs during
the NE monsoon. During the SW monsoon the
weather is sultry and hot and the frequency of
squalls is higher. Sailing conditions along the
Malaysian coast and in the Malacca Strait are also
better during the NE monsoon. In both seasons the
main current has a northerly set.
Although a passage through Malacca Strait can
be undertaken throughout the year, the best
weather conditions will be experienced during the
NE monsoon, when the frequency of squalls is
much lower than during the opposite season. Also
less frequent are the notorious sumatras, which can
make navigation very difficult in these busy
waters as the squalls are accompanied by heavy
rain and gale force winds. As mentioned earlier,
another feature of navigation in Malacca Strait are
the strong tidal currents which, combined with the
normally light winds, make it more convenient to
anchor between tides. This can easily be done as
there are anchoring depths all along the Malaysian
shore and there are sufficient protected places
where one can stop for a few hours. The Malaysian
side is preferable if this passage is done in short-
er stages. Light winds and calms are more frequent
during the day, so it is better to sail at night when
breezes are steadier. One hazard which is almost
impossible to avoid at night are the numerous fish
traps that line the two shores. It is therefore rec-
ommended to sail in deeper waters during the
IN20 ROUTES FROM SRI LANKA
iN21 Sri Lanka to Red Sea
IN22 Sri Lanka to Oman
IN23 Sri Lanka to India
IN24 Sri Lanka to Maldives
IN25 Sri Lanka to Singapore
Sri Lanka occupies such a strategic position at the
crossroads of the Nort.h Indian Ocean that few
IN20 ROUTES FROM SRI LANKA
hours of darkness.
On leaving Phuket, southbound boats have the
choice of either taking an inshore route (IN15B) and
stopping in a number of conveniently placed ports
along the Malaysian shore, or staying offshore
(IN15A) . Leaving from WP IN151, south of Phuket,
the offshore route goes to WP IN152. If planning to
stop in Langkawi, the nearest port of entry into
Malaysia, the inshore route is taken to WP IN153,
halfway between Besi and Tenga islands in the
Butang group. From there the course can be altered
for WP IN154, off the west coast of Langkawi.
While the offshore route continues to WP IN155,
those wishing to stop at Penang should set course
for WP IN156, at the entrance into North Channel
leading to Georgetown.
The density of shipping traffic increases as one
moves towards Singapore, and by the time the off-
shore route has reached WP IN157 one should be
prepared for a lot of shipping. The route continues
to WP IN158, at the entrance into the Singapore
Channel. The new Raffies Marina, on the west
shore of Singapore Island, is the best place to make
for in this, the busiest port in the world .
Although most cruising boats prefer the west
coasts of Malaysia and Thailand, a number of
yachts have ventured recently along the east coasts
of these two countries which face the South China
Sea. There are many attractive fishing harbours
along the coast from Singapore to the Gulf of Siam.
Because that coast is exposed to easterly winds, it
is better to sail there during the SW monsoon. See
route PN41 (page 226) for more deta~ls.
372
373
374
374
375
boats pass it by without stopping. Because the cap-
ital Colombo is a busy commercial harbour, all
371
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
Mahe
I
SEYCHELLES •"o
60"E
IN20 Routes from Sri Lanka
cruising boats call at Galle, on the southern tip of
the island. The usual time to arrive is at the height
of the NE monsoon, in January and February, when
the small port is full to capacity. Because most
world voyagers are westbound towards the Red
Sea and Suez Canal, eastbound passages are
rather rare although there are a few boats arriving
in Sri Lanka from the Red Sea or East Africa. Those
who plan to sail eastwards across the North Indian
Ocean must wait for the SW monsoon, which pro-
vides excellent sailing conditions even if at times
the winds might be too strong for some people's
liking. Although most boats passing through Sri
Lanka are in a hurry to reach the Red Sea, some use
the island as a convenient starting point for a cruise
among the islands scattered around the centre of
the Indian Ocean.
The NE monsoon only sets in at the end of
November or even in December, arriving with
IN21 Sri Lanka to Red Sea
372
80°E
squally weather and rain. The mod erate NE
winds prevail with fine dry weather until March or
April. The SW monsoon lasts longer than else-
where, beginning in May and lasting right through
until December, The SW monsoon often com-
mences with a 'monsoon burst', a blast of east wind
that arrives with rain, thunder and lightning after
a week of large clouds and vivid lightning which
disappear after sunset. The SW winds are fairly
constant in direction, usually strengthening to
20-35 knots by mid-morning and slackening off in
the late afternoon, dropping to around 10 knots
during the night. Heavy rain occurs on the SW
coast from May to September. The south coast is
affected by heavy swell during the SW monsoon.
Although rarely hit by cyclones originating in the
Arabian Sea, which move to the NW, those which
originate in the Bay of Bengal can strike Sri Lanka,
most frequently in November and December.

At the height of the NE monsoon, when the aver-
age wind strength is between 10 and 15 knots, this
passage can be truly delightful. There is also a
favourable current and the frequency of gales in the
North Indian Ocean is nil. Winds become lighter
towards March and at such times it is advisable to
leave Sri Lanka with a good reserve of fuel The one
problem to worry about is the large amoilnt of ship-
ping, either converging into the Gulf of Aden, or
crossing to and from the Persian Gulf.
i Having left Galle Harbour through the Western
i. Channel, boats bound for Djibouti (route IN21A)
from WP IN211 can set an initial course for WP
IN212 to pass through the Eight Degree Channel,
20 miles south of Minicoy Island. The route then
crosses the Arabian Sea to WP IN213, 30 miles NE
of Socotra Island. If the winds allow it, Socotra
should be passed to the north and at least 30 miles
off, due to the apparent unfriendliness of its inhab-
itants. After the middle of March, if SW winds are
experienced near the island, it may be necessary to
pass south of Socotra and between it and the
African coast.
From WP IN213 a course can be set for WP
IN22 Sri Lanka to Oman
IN20 ROUTES FROM SRI LANKA
IN2l4, in the Gulf of Tadjoura. The route passes
south of the Musha islands and then turns SW
towards the port of Djibouti avoiding the various
dangers, all of which are marked by buoys. The rec-
ommended anchorage (11"36.l'N,43'08.l'E) is off
the Djibouti Yacht Club whose facilities may be
used by visiting boats. The various authorities are
in the nearby commercial harbour and must be vis-
ited to complete entry formalities.
From WP IN123, boats bound for Aden (Route
IN21B) should set a course for WP IN125, at the
entrance into the port of Aden. A marked channel
leads into the Inner Harbo.ur, where yachts ancl1or
off the customs dock. Boats are normally met on
arrival by a port control launch and directed to the
anchorage.
This passage is not normally undertaken during
the SW monsoon and it should not even be con-
sidered. The only alternative is to cross the equa-
tor and make one's westing with the help of the SE
trade winds, possibly south of the Chagos
Archipelago, before recrossing the equator. As such
a route runs close to the Seychelles, directions
would be similar to those for route IT16 (page 388).
373
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
Rather than sail nonstop to the Red Sea, a few boats
break the voyage on the way, Oman providing one
of the few places where this is possible. The course
after leaving Galle at WP IN221 leads to WP IN222,
south of the Laccadive Islands in the middle of the
Nine Degree Channel. Occasionally boats have
stopped at Sueli Par, an atoll on the north side of
the channel. A course can then be set for WP IN223,
five miles SE of the entrance into Raysut harbour.
The weather during the NE monsoon is very
pleasant and the passage from Sri Lanka usually
enjoys excellent winds. The passage should not be
IN23 Sri Lanka to India
Mainly because of considerable bureaucratic hur-
dles, only a small number of yachts include India
in their cruising plans. Although the NE monsoon
has more settled weather, the high proportion of
NW winds make it difficult to reach most ports on
the west coast of the Indian s ubcontinent during
this-monsoon. Coastal navigation is made some-
what easier between December and February by
alternating land arid sea breezes which make it pos-
sible to take long tacks along the coast. When sail-
ing along the coast at night it is almost impossible
to avoid the numerous fishing nets and small boats
without lights that are a feature of this coast.
During the hours of darkness it is safer to stay a few
miles offshore.
374
made before the end of the year to allow the mon-
soon to establish itself.
Although the Sultanate of Oman does not
encourage tourism, cruising boats that make the
detour to stop there are treated courteously.
Foreign boats are only allowed to stop in Raysut
(Mina Razute), an excellently protected harbour.
Those who have had the foresight to arrive with
visas may move around the country freely, those
without have to observe a curfew and are only
allowed outside the port area during daylight
hours on working days (Saturday to Wednesday).
The northbound passage is not easier during the
SW monsoon when the weather is often unsettled.
One alternative is to reach NW India towards the
end of the SW monsoon, in September, and sail
down the coast with the help of the NW winds and
south-setting current that occur at the change of
seasons. During the NE monsoon constant, light
northerly winds will be experienced as far north as
Cochin. For this reason few boats venture further
north than Cochin, where it is possible to leave the
boat under guard and travel inland. .
Having left Galle Harbour through the Western
Channel, from WP IN231, a course can be set for
WP IN232, 20 miles south of Cape Comorin, the
southern tip of India. In strong winds and big seas,

this point should be rounded further offshore as the
seas tend to get very rough in its vicinity. The route
then swings north parallel to the coast to WP IN233,
off Tangaserri Point. Another course alteration is
made for WP IN234, SW of the entrance into Cochin
harbour. Entering the well protected port at night
IN24 Sri Lanka to Maldives
This passage is best made during the NE monsoon
when winds are mostly favourable. Contrary
winds and a strong east-setting current are the
order of the day for a passage during the SW mon-
soon, and even during the transitional months the
winds are often westerly. Tropical storms very
rarely touch the Northern Maldives and the dan-
ger of encountering a cyclone along this route is
remote. The Maldives should be approached with
great caution both because they are all low lying
islands and because of the strong currents.
IN25 Sri Lanka to Singapore
IN20 ROUTES FROM SRI LANKA
is possible, although the lights on several buoys
have been reported as not working. Arriving yachts
should ·contact Cochin Port Authority on VHF
channel 16 and anchor off the north tip of
Willingdon Island, where a customs launch will
come to start entry formalities .
From WP IN241 outside Galle harbour a direct
course leads to North Male Atoll. If heading
straight for the capital Male (the only port of entry),
landfall should be made at WP IN242, south of
Mirufenfushi and Diffushi, two low islets marking
the easternmost point of North Male Atoll. The
course can then be altered for WP IN243, 2.5 miles
east of Male Passage that leads into the large
lagoon. Port Control should be contacted on
arrival on VHF channel 16.
375,,
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
The recommended time for this passage is during
the SW monsoon, although at its height the winds
may be rather too strong. The transition months
may provide better sailing conditions, but they also
carry the higher risk of cyclones. Although the
cyclone season in the Bay of Bengal extends over
the entire SW monsoon period, at the height of the
monsoon the development of tropical storms is
opposed by the strong monsoon; the few cyclones
between July and September normally stay well to
the north of the area crossed by this route.
In the Malacca Strait the SW monsoon is usual-
ly blocked by the land mass of Sumatra and better
winds are therefore found on the Malaysian side of
the strait. Sailing along that shore is in any case rec-
ommended as one can clear into Malaysia at a num-
ber of ports, whereas a stop in Sumatra necessitates
the compulsory Indonesian cruising permit. The
one notable exception is Sabang, on Pulau We, a
small island off the northern tip of Sumatra
where boats have been allowed to stop briefly even
without a permit. Because of the strong tidal cur-
rents in Malacca Strait, it is usually better to anchor
between tides. The SW winds are strongest in the
northern portions of the Malacca Strait, variable
from SE to SW with calms in the centre, and more
SE in southern areas towards Singapore.
Sea and land breezes occur on either coast and
up to 20 miles offshore. The sea breeze begins about
mid-morning and reaches a maximum in the after-
noon, dying away at sunset. The strength of the
breeze can be augmented to 20 knots if it combines
with the prevailing monsoon. On the Malaysian
coast the night land breeze can be very strong, start-
ing in the evening and sometimes blowing hard all
376
night. Between April and November the area is
affected by sumatras, thundery storms with gale
force winds, which blow across from Sumatra and
last for several hours.
Having left Galle harbour through the Eastern
Channel, from WP IN251 the route follows Sri
Lanka's south coast to WP IN252, off Dondra Head,
the southern tip of the island. The route then cross-
es the Bay of Bengal to WP IN253, south of Great
Nicobar Island. If the intention is to sail nonstop to
Singapore, the course should be altered for WP
IN254 at the entrance into Malacca Strait. The off-
shore route (IN25A) continues to WPs IN255 and
IN256, at the entrance into the Singapore Channel.
The new Raffles Marina, on the west shore of
Singapore Island, is the best place to stop in this
extremely busy port.
Boats intending to visit some of Malaysia before
reaching Singapore can clear in at Penang (IN25B).
From WP IN253, the course should be altered for
WP IN257, at the entrance into North Channel lead-
ing to Georgetown, the main town on the island.
The customs office is in Georgetown, whereas the
immigration office is on the mainland, at
Butterworth. When leaving Penang, boats must not
pass under the bridge joining Penang to the main-
land without written permission.
Alternatively, boats intending to sail direct to
Port Klang (IN25C) from WP IN254 should alter
course for WP IN258, at the northern entrance into
Klang Strait. This leads into Port Klang, which
serves Malaysia' s capital Kuala Lumpur. Visiting
boats may use the facilities of the Royal Selangor
Yacht Club in Port Klang, located on the eastern
shore of the harbour.

IN30 ROUTES IN THE ARABIAN SEA
IN31 India to Red Sea
IN32 Oman to Red Sea
IN33 Red Sea to Sri Lanka
IN34 Red Sea to Maldives
Most small boat traffic in the Arabian Sea is west-
bound and the busiest routes are those sailed by
boats using the NE monsoon to reach the Red Sea
from Sri Lanka or the Maldives. Eastbound voyages
are far less common and, outside the months of
January and February, sailing boats are quite a rar-
ity. The mostly unpleasant weathe.r encountered
during the SW monsoon is not the only reason why
most sailors avoid the North Indian Ocean in sum-
mer. The other reason is the less than friendly
reception extended to cruising yachts in many of
the countries bordering on the Arabian Sea.
The seasonal winds of this sea gave us the word
'monsoon' and both the NE and SW monsoons
IN30 Routes in the Arabian Sea
take over. This burst of the monsoon is preceded
by a week of vivid lightning which disappears
every day at sunset. The SW winds in the Arabian
Sea are very strong and can blow at gale force for
several days. There is a high frequency of gales near
the island of Socotra in July. In September the
winds start weakening and the monsoon breaks up
and disappears by October.
Cyclones occur at two .periods of the year which
IN30 ROUTES IN THE ARABIAN SEA
377
378
379
380
blow with great strength and constancy over this
area. The NE monsoon begins in November and is
the time of fair weather. In the northern areas it can
be more N than NE and even NW. It blows a t an
average 10to15 knots at the beginning of the sea-
son. The winds increase to 15 to 20 knots in
December and can be even stronger in the north.
The wet season coincides with the SW monsoon,
which commences in May in the south and
spreads over the whole area by June. The weath-
er can be very squally at the monsoon changeover.
On the Indian coast, the SW monsoon arrives with
a sudden burst of wind from the east, heavy rain,
and thunder for several hours before the SW winds
..
•o
·~
MALDIVES :: °'-Male
'-~
,•, 80°E
coincide with the monsoon changeover. April to
July is one period with a high frequency, with June
having the highest incidence of cyclones. October
has the highest frequency in the other period,
although cyclones can occur from September
through until December. Most cyclones curve NW
to strike the shores of the Arabian Peninsula or else
tend to recurve to the NE towards India and
Pakistan.
377
RO UTES IN THE NORTH INDIA N OC EAN
IN31 India to Red Sea
A direct route to the Red Sea can be sailed from
anywhere on the west coast of India at the height
of the NE monsoon, from December to the begin-
ning of March. After tl1e middle of March the winds
are less constant and there is a higher percentage
of calms in ilie Arabian Sea. Towards the·end of the
NE monsoon choosing the best route through this
area becomes crucial as there is an increased chance
of contrary winds close to Socotra Island. In April
it is advisable to steer for a point 50 miles south of
Socotra so as to be able to clear the Horn of Africa
comfortably as the current is also setting north
towards Socotra at this time.
From WP IN311, outside Cochin Harbour, the
route runs due west through the Nine Degree
Channel staying south of Kalpeni and Suheli Par.
Occasionally boats have been able to stop briefly
in the latter, which is an atoll with a well protect-
ed lagoon. From WP IN312 a course can be set for
IN313, 30 miles NE of Socotra Island. After the mid-
dle of March, if SW winds are experienced near the
island, it may be necessary to pass south of Socotra
and between it and the African coast. Jn such a case,
from WP IN312 a course should be set for WP
IN314 south of Socotra. Having sailed past Cape
378
Guardafui, at WP IN315 the northern route is
rejoined for the port of destination, as described
below.
From WP IN313, if the intention is to sail to
Djibouti, course should be set for WP IN316, in the
Gulf of Tadjoura. The route goes south of the
Musha Islands and then turns SW towards the port
of Djibouti. The recommended anchorage is off the
Djibouti Yacht Club whose facilities may be used
by visiting boats. Entry formalities are completed
in the nearby commercial harbour.
From WP IN313, boats bound for Aden ~hould
sail for WP 1N317, at the entrance into the port of
Aden. A marked channel leads into the Inner
Harbour, where yachts anchor off the customs
dock. Boats are normaUy met on arrival by a port
control launch and directed to the anchorage.
A direct passage across the North Indian Ocean
is virtually impossible during the SW monsoon,
from May to September, when the only alternative
is to make a long detour south of the equator via
the Chagos Archipelago. This route passes NE of
the Seychelles and recrosses the equator in about
longitude 53 "OO'E. See also route IT16 (page 388):

IN32 Oman to Red Sea
Excellent sailing conditions prevail during the NE
monsoon, January and February being the best
months to head for the Red Sea. Because of a high-
er percentage of calms near land , the initial
course from Raysut should lead offshore. The pro-
portion of SW winds increases towards the end of
March w hen a contrary current also starts making
itself felt parallel to the Arabian coast. The passage
should not be undertaken during the SW monsoon,
when strong headwinds make it almost impossi- .
ble to reach the Red Sea along this route. During the
IN33 Red Sea to Sri Lanka
IN30 ROUTES IN THE ARABIAN SEA
transitional period between monsoons, the area is
subject to tropical storms.
From WP JN321 , three miles SW of Raysut, an
initial course is set for WP IN322, south of Ras
Fartak. The route runs paraHel to the coast all the
way to Aden as far as WP IN323 in the approach-
es to Aden. Boats bound for Djibouti will contin-
ue to WP IN324 south of the Musha Islands in the
Gulf of Tadjoura, in the approaches to the port of
Djibouti. See IN31 for further details on both Aden
and Djibouti.
I
II
379
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEA N
Choosing the time for this passage presents a major
dilemma, as the cyclone free months of July and
August also hav·e the highest frequency of gales. In
fact the frequency of gales in July just to the east of
Socotra is similar to that off Cape Horn in summer.
As passages across the Arabian Sea can be
extremely rough at the height of the SW monsoon,
only September offers the prospect of a reasonably
comfortable voyage. The transition periods
between the two monsoons cannot be recom-
mended either because of the risk of cyclones,
although an April passage has a good chance of fair
winds and a lower risk factor.
The course from either Djibouti or Aden passes
well to the north of Socotra to avoid the strong
west-setting current along the African coast in the
IN34 Red Sea to Maldives
Directions are very similar to those for route IN33
and a course for Male, the capital and port of entry
for the Maldives, should only be set after having
passed well to the north of Socotra. The low lying
Maldives should be approached with extreme cau-
tion because of the strong current that sets on to the
islands during the SW monsoon. It is indeed cru-
cial that WP IN344 is reached in the morning so that
the remaining distance to Male can be covered dur-
ing daylight hours.
From WP IN342 north of Socotra, the route leads
to WP IN343, north of Ari Atoll. To reach the cap-
380
Gulf of Aden. From WP IN331 south of the Musha
Islands in the Gulf ofTadjoura, a course can be set
for WP IN333 north ofSocotra. Boats leaving from
Aden take their departure from WP IN332 and use
the same intermediate WP IN333 north of Socotra.
Sri Lanka can be reached through either the Nine
or Eight Degree Channels, which are separated by
Minicoy Island. Whichever channel is used it
should be approached with caution, especially at
night or in the thick weather which is sometimes
associated with the SW monsoon.
Landfall will be made at WP IN336, just outside
Galle Harbour, from where Western Channel
leads to the small port in the NE part of the bay.
Boats are usually met by a local agent whose ser-
vices are necessary to complete entry formalities.
ital Male, the route continues east to pass north of
Toddu Atoll. At WP IN344, it turns SE towards WP
IN345 at the entrance into Wadu Channel. This
leads to Male, which is reached through Male
Passage. In good light it may be possible to reach
Male by entering North Male Atoll through one of
its western passes. The Port Authority should be
contacted on VHF channel 16 on arrival. As Male
is the only official port of entry, boats are not
allowed to stop anywhere before having cleared in
there.
 16
TRANS EQUATORIAL
ROUTES IN THE
INDIAN OCEAN
rom Indonesia in the east to Kenya in the west, turies the Arab dhows set a perfect example of how
F the equator is crossed by a variety of routes
used mostly by northbound boats. Because of the
to use the prevailing weather conditions to best
advantage. Although their trading routes do not
finely matched seasons in the two hemispheres of always coincide with those used by modern
the Indian Ocean, with careful planning it is pos- cruising yachts, today's sailors have much to learn
sible to cruise throughout the year, always having from those skilled mariners, some of whom are still
the benefit of favourable weather. Over the cen- plying the coasts of Arabia and East Africa.

IT10 NORTHBOUND ROUTES

ITll Bali to Singapore 382
IT12 Bali to Sri Lanka 384
IT13 Cocos Keeling to Sri Lanka 385
IT14 Chagos to Sri Lanka 386
IT15 Chagos to Maldives 387
IT16 Seychelles to Red Sea 388
IT17 Kenya to Red Sea 389
IT18 Kenya to Sri Lanka 390
For centuries Arab dhows have sailed from the stops inside the reefs and various offshore islands.
Persian Gulf to the East African coast to trade, sail- Boats intending to set off on a -northbound
ing down on one monsoon and back on the other, transequatorial passage should time this to take
although in present day Kenya and Tanzania they best advantage of the monsoons on either side of
are becoming a rare sight. The SE trade winds blow the equator. From December to March, when the
steadily from April to October and rarely exceed ITCZ moves south, the E monsoon is deflected
20 knots. The wide band of the northbound current across the equator to a give a NW flow .of wind.
runs close to the shore and can be augmented by This NW monsoon is not so reliable and brings
these SE trade winds so as to reach 4 knots. rain. It blows most strongly in January and
Therefore it makes sense to plan any northbound February. This period is also the cyclone season in
passages to coincide with this season. During the the South Indian Ocean, but these storms normal-
NE monsoon, when winds from the NE and E pre- . ly form south of Chagos and move in a southerly
vail, this current is slacker. Along the Tanzanian direction. They almost never track north towards
coast it is possible to take an inshore route that the equator.

381
TRANSEQ UATORI A L ROUTES I N THE IND.IAN OCEAN

Transequatorial routes in the Indian Ocean

IT11 Bali to Singapore

382

There are two main routes that can be sailed from
Bali to Singapore, either direct through the
Karimata Strait (ITllA) or by the more indirect
route via Bangka and Riouw Straits (!TUB). The
first route is faster and can be done nonstop as it
is mostly offshore, the second route is slower and
offers the possibility of overnight stops if the winds
are not favourable. The second route is not rec-
ommended for those who do not possess an
Indonesian cruising permit. For both routes the best
time .is during the South Indian SE monsoon and
the North Indian SW monsoon, between May and
September. During the transitional months of April,
October, and early November, winds are more vari-
able and calms frequent. During these months there
is also a high frequency of rain squalls, often of tor-
rential proportions, that make it difficult to anchor
every night in safety and make the offshore route
more attractive.
On leaving Benoa the course leads NE through
the Lombok Strait where extremely strong currents
can be experienced. During the SE monsoon the
main direction of the currents is southerly,
although af certain times a favourable current sets
NE along the east coast of Bali. This current occurs
approximately at the time of the moon's transit and
lasts for two or three hours so it is worth timing a
departure for two hours before the transit and leave
Benoa at slack water.
From WP IT110, outside Benoa Harbour, the off-
shore route (!TUA) sets off in a NE direction
through Selat Badung (Badung Channel), NW of
Nusa Lembongan, as far as WP !Tlll, off Bali's
easternmost point. From there the route turns NW
to cross the Bali Sea to pass through the 10 mile
wide gap between Goagoa island and Karang Takat
Reef at WP IT112. As neither of these dangers are
lit, one should attempt to pass through this area
during daylight. Bearing in mind the distances
involved, a good tactic is to leave Benoa around
noon so as to pass WP ITl11 before nightfall, cross
- - ,
IT10 NORTHBOUND ROUTES
the Bali Sea at night and arrive at WP IT112 the fol-
lowing morning. An alternative way to reach the
Java Sea, especially at night, is to use Sapudi Strait,
east of Madura Ialand, which has lights on Sapudi
island itself.
Having reached the Java Sea the route continues
in a NW direction and passes east of Bawean Island
through WP IT113 to WP IT114 at the entrance into
Karimata Strait, east of Borneo (Kalimantan), a
wide body of water encumbered by many unlit
reefs. The position of some of these do not neces-
sarily agree with GPS observations, so the area
should be treated with great caution. Strong cur-
rent~ of up to 2 knots have been reported, their
direction depending on the monsoon and setting
predominantly N or NvV from May to September i
and S or SE from November to March. The route i
I
goes to WP IT115 before the course is altered for
WP IT116 halfway between Ontario and Flying Fish
reefs. The route continues in a NW direction and
crosses the equator at WP IT117. Bintan Island is
passed to the east by making for WP IT118 before
the course can be altered for Singapore Strait. The
area E and NE of Bintan should be passed in day-
time as there are often fishing nets set up in those
waters. At night it is therefore advisable to stay fur-
ther offshore.
There is a choice of channels at the eastern
entrance into the Singapore Strait. Coming from the
SE, the most convenient is South Channel, between
the north coast of Bintan and Horsburgh Reef. To
reach it, from WP IT118 the course should be
altered for WP IT119. From this point, it is equal-
ly easy to pass through either South or Middle
Channel.
Route ITl1B leads through Bangka Strait, the nar-
rows between Sumatra and Bangka islands.
Directions for reaching the Java Sea are similar to
those given above. Once the Java Sea has been
reached, from WP IT112 a course can be set for WP
IT1110, SE of Bawean Island. The route continues
383
TRANS EQUATORIAL RO UTES IN THE INDI AN OCEA N
in a NE direction to WP IT1111, in th!! approaches
to Bangka Strait. The direction of the wind in the
strait is usually parallel to the coast, although
strong SW winds can be experienced towards the
end of the SE monsoon. Because of the nature of the
tidal currents in the strait, it is better to stay close
to the coast of Sumatra during the SE monsoon.
North of Bangka Strait it is possible to follow
either a direct or an indirect route to Singapore. The
former leads outside Lingga island to Riouw Strait
and because it is easily navigable it is used by most
boats. The indirect route follows the coast of
Sumatra through Berhala and Pengelap Straits and
IT12 Bali to Sri Lanka
This is a more direct route to reach the North Indian
Ocean than route IT11 and is used mainly by those
who are on their way to the Red Sea and wish to
avoid sailing via Singapore and the Malacca Strait.
If the port of departure is Bali it is best to head imme-
diately offshore and sail south of Java. In September
or early October the SE trade winds will provide
favourable winds to about latitude 5 'S, but because
winds tend to be more consistent further south it is
advisable not to set a direct course for Sri Lanka until
384
joins the direct route for the final approach to
Singapore through Riouw Strait. A slightly more
indirect route leads to Singapore from SW through
Durian Strait and Phillip Channel.
Boats arriving in Singapore from the SE may find
it easier to go to the anchorage off the Changi Yacht
Club, NE of Singapore Island, and complete entry
formalities from there. The alternative is the new
Raffles Marina (1'20.53'N, 103 '38.22'E), on the west
coast of Singapore Island. Yet another option is to
go only as far as· the new Nongsa Marina on Bintan
Island.
longitude 95"E has been reached, as both contrary
winds and currents are more likely to be encoun-
tered closer to Sumatra. The transitional period from
the SW to the NE monsoon provides the best con-
ditions for this route. If the passage is made at the
height of the SW monsoon, all necessary westing
should be made south of latitude 5 'S, as strong west-
erly winds will make it very difficult to reach Sri
Lanka on a direct course. During the SW monsoon
route IT12A should be sailed.
f
!
ITlO NORTHBOUN D RO UTES

From WP IT121, south of Benoa harbour, the
route runs south of both Bali and Java to WP IT122.
If SE winds persist, one should continue in the
same direction to WP IT123. Depending on weath-
er conditions, the equator should be crossed as far
west as possible and in any case not sooner than
meridian 85'E has been reached (WP IT124).
From this point a direct course can be set for Galle
and WP IT125, south of Galle harbour which is
entered through the Central Channel. The town of
Galle is on the west side of the large bay, whereas
the small port, where entry formalities are com-
pleted, is in the NE corner in Magalle.
This passage is not recommended during the NE
monsoon when mostly contrary winds will be met,
especially south of the equator. If such a passage
during the NE monsoon cannot be avoided (route
!Tl2B), northing should be made in the lee of
Sumatra by sailing not more than 50 miles west of
the offlying islands. From WP IT122 SW of Java, the
course should be altered for WP IT126 so as to fol-
low a course parallel to the west coast of Sumatra.
The NW course parallel to Sumatra may be con-
tinued after the equator has been crossed at WP
IT127. The course should be changed for Sri Lanka
only after favourable conditions have been found
north of the equator. Directions for route IT13
should also be consulted as they refer to the same
area of the Indian Ocean.

IT13 Cocos Keeling to Sri Lanka

[
t
l
t
Ir Although this passage can be made at any time of erratic currents between latitude 3 'Sand the equa-
the year, most people who undertake it intend to tor. Similar conditions were experienced north of
i continue their voyage towards the Red Sea and the equator all the way to Sri Lanka.
! therefore plan to arrive in Sri Lanka on the eve of
the NE monsoon. For this reason the timing of this
The most difficult aspect of this route is the fact
that it crosses three different currents, none of
l
~
L
passage should be carefully calculated, because
passages later in the year risk encountering
northerly winds north of the equator. It is therefore
which can be predicted with complete a.ccuracy.
The route runs first through the west-setting South
Equatorial Current, its effect being probably can-
t advisable to make this passage while the SW mon-
soon is still in force in the North Indian Ocean,
celled out on nearing the equator by the east-set-
ting Equatorial Countercurrent. The currents

fi: September probably being the best month. Boats

that have made this passage in the second half of
October encountered light variable winds and
north of the equator depend on the state of the
monsoon, setting east during the SW monsoon,
I west during the NE monsoon. However, it does
t 385
t
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES I N THE INDIAN OCEAN
appear that the combined set of the currents is usu-
ally to the east and all boats making this passage
have found themselves further east than expected.
Yet another factor to be borne in mind on this route
is that it crosses the doldrums, although the belt of
calms or light winds between the SE trade winds
and the monsoon prevailing north of the equator
is not too wide and sometimes the wind systems
merge into each other almost without a break.
During August and September the SE trade winds
reach as far north as latitude s·s. Leaving South
Cocos Keeling from WP IT131 the recommended
procedure at this time of year (route IT13A) is to
IT14 Chagos to Sri Lanka
The strategy for this passage depends entirely on
the state of the monsoon north of the equator.
During the SW monsoon, from May to Sepember,
it is probably best to try and sail a direct course for
Sri Lanka and only compensate for the set of the
current after having crossed the equator (route
IT14A). Attention should be paid to the strong cur-
rents that set around the northern part of the
Chagos Archipelago. Although the winds can be
expected to be light at the beginning of the passage,
the effect of the monsoon should make itself felt on
nearing the equator with winds veering gradual-
386
make for WP IT132, then sail north along the 80 'E
meridian until the equator is crossed at WP
IT133. From this point a course can be set for WP
IT134 south of Galle harbour.
If this passage is made during the NE monsoon,
from December to March (route IT13B), as much
northing as possible should be made soon after
leaving Cocos Keeling so as to cros.s the equator in
about longitude 90.E (WP IT135) and approach
Sri Lanka from a better angle. Having crossed
the equator, a direct course for Sri Lanka should
only be set when favourable winds have been
encountered.
ly from south to SW and finally west.
Taking as departure point WP !Tl 41 NE of Peros
Banhos, the course stays east of the Maldives and
crosses the equator at WP IT142. The course can
then be altered for WP IT1 43 south of Galle from
where the harbour is entered through Central
Channel.
During the NE monsoon (route IT14B) it is essen-
tial to make as much easting as possible south of
the equator which should be crossed in about lon-
gitude 82 'E (WP IT144), so as to approach Sri Lanka
from slightly east of south.

IT15 Chagos t o Maldives
The most favourable sailing conditions for this
route can be expected during the SW monsoon
when southerly winds predominate south of the
equator. During the changeover period winds are
much lighter and there are long periods of calms.
During the NE monsoon the winds south of the
equator are mostly NW. Currents in this region can
be very strong and their set is difficult to predict,
particularly in the transitional period between
monsoons. The strongest current during the SW
monsoon is the Indian Monsoon Current, which
sets strongly east on both sides of the equator.
From WP IT151 NE of Peros Banhos, the course
is almost due north and there are no dangers en
route until the Maldives archipelago is approached.
The capital Male is at the southern extremity of
North Male Atoll and as this is the only port of
entry, all vessels must complete entry formalities
there. This considerably complicates matters as
most of the archipelago has to be crossed to reach
Male. For this reason, boats occasionally stop at
Addu Atoll, the southernmost of the Maldives and
the only one south of the equator.
Depending on the monsoon, to reach Male the
·IT10 NORTHBOUND R OUTES
course should pass east or west of the islands. As
the currents set towards the islands, it is probably
safer to sail in their lee, west during the N E mon-
soon and east during the SW monsoon. At all times,
allowance should be made for the currents and also
the fact that their set does not necessarily agree
with the direction of the monsoon.
To pass east of the islands (route IT15A), the
equator should be crossed at WP IT152. The route
continues due north to WP IT153 east of Felidhe
Atoll. It then swings NW to WP IT154, at the
entrance into Male Passage that leads into North
Male Atoll and the capital itself.
During the NE monsoon, the islands should be
passed on their west side (route IT15B) by setting
an initial course to cross the equator at WP IT155.
The course turns almost due north te WP IT156
from where the channel is taken between North
N ilandhe and Ari Atolls. The route continues in a
NE direction to WP IT157 at the entrance into Wadu
Channel between South and North Male Atolls.
The capital Male is at the southern end of North
Male Atoll and is reached through one of the pass-
es leading through the reef.
387
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCEAN
IT16 Seychelles to Red Sea
The best time to make this passage is towards the
end of the SW monsoon, in September or early
October, when the strength of the winds begins to
subside in the NW part of the Indian Ocean. At this
time of year the SE trade winds reach as far north
as the equator. From there the winds become grad-
ually SW and blow with increasing force as one
approaches Socotra Island. This area is notorious
for its high frequency of gales during the SW mon-
soon and this is the reason why an earlier passage,
during July or August, is not recommended. Even
towards the end of the SW monsoon winds can be
very strong and this fact combined with the strong
currents usually produce rough seas around the
Horn of Africa.
Taking one's departure from WP IT160, off North
Point on Mahe Island, boats sailing during the rec-
388
ommended period (route IT16A) should follow a
NW course on leaving the Seychelles so as to cross
the equator at WP 11161. If conditions allow it,
more westing should be made while south, before
the equator is crossed. This avoids the strong cur-
rent that sets SE during the transitional period
between monsoons. From the equator the course
can be altered for WP 11162 from where the route
runs parallel to the African coast. Along this coast
the Somali Current sets strongly to the north and
can reach rates as high as 170 miles per day in the
area south of Socotra Island. During the transitional
period, the SE trade winds blow as far as the equa-
tor and favourable winds can be held into the Gulf
of Aden. In October winds in that area will be SW
or S. However, the passage must not be left too late,
because NE winds start to predominate north of the

equator after ~e second half of October. Thick haze
and poor visibility make navigation hazardous
along the African coast and a safe distance should
be kept off the coast both at night and in day time.
From WP 1Tl62 a course can be set for WP IT163,
off Ras Hafun. From there the course turns almost
due north to WP IT164, NE of Cape Guardafui.
Having reached the Horn of Africa, the route pass-
es SW of Socotra towards WP ITl 65, in the Gulf of
Aden. If the intention is to call at Djibouti, from WP
IT165 a course can be set for WP IT166, in the Gulf
otTadjoura. The route passes south of the Musha
Islands and then turns SW towards the port of
Djibouti avoiding the various dangers, all of which
are marked by buoys. The recommended anchor-
age (11 "36.l 'N,43 •08.l'E) is off the Djibouti Yacht
Club whose facilities may be used by visiting boats.
The various authorities are in the nearby com-
mercial harbour and must be visited to complete
entry formalities.
From WP IT165, boats bound for Aden should
alter course for WP IT167, at the entrance into the
port of Aden. A marked channel leads into the
Inner Harbour, where yachts anchor off the cus-
toms dock. Boats are normally met on arrival by a
port control launch and directed to the anchorage.
Although better conditions may be experienced
during the SW monsoon, the time of arrival in the
Red Sea may not agree with most people's plans,
unless one is prepared to spend the coming win-
ter in the Red Sea and only reach the Mediterranean
the following spring. Mainly for these reasons,
IT17 Kenya to Red Sea
J
',
)·,
ITlO NORTHBOUND ROUTES
most boats tend to make this passage in the early
part of. the year (route IT16B). If the passage is
attempted during the !\TE monsoon, sufficient east-
ing should be made south of the equator so that the
NE winds will be met at a better angle. Because of
the strong N or NW winds that will be met on leav-
ing the Seychelles, a NE course should be sailed so
that the equator is crossed as far east as longitude
66 "E or even 68'E. The ground lost to the east will
be made up later when a better sailing angle will
ensure good speeds once under the full influence .
of the NE monsoon. However, it may not be always
necessary to make so much easting south of the
equator and boats that have made the passage
towards the end of the NE monsoon, in late
February or March, have been able to sail a more
northerly course after leaving the Seychelles and
have crossed the equator around longitude 63 °E
(WP IT168). From the equator the course turns NW
to pass, if conditions allow it, on the windward side
of Socotra. During the NE monsoon winds in the
Gulf of Aden are mostly easterly.
After the equator has been crossed, and if suffi-
cient easting has been made, it should be possible
to set a course that passes east of Socotra through
WP IT169. If this proves impossible, or not conve-
nient if the equator had been crossed too far to the
west, a course should be set for WP IT164, NE of
Cape Guardafui, to pass between Socotra and the
Horn of Africa. From there similar directions apply
as for the alternative route described above.
389
 TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCE AN

This classic route of the Arab traders benefits from
favourable winds throughout the SW monsoon,
from May to September. However, as the winds
often attain gale force during the months of July
and August in the vicinity of Socotra and the Horn
of Africa, the voyage is more comfortable either at
the beginning or at the end of the SW monsoon.
Good passages on this route have been made in
September, when. the winds are favourable both
south and north of the equator and the strong ·
Somali Current also gives a considerable boost to
daily runs. The course runs parallel to the African
coast, but because of the thick haze and poor vis-
ibility associated with the SW monsoon, particu-
lar attention must be paid to navigation. The most
dangerous area is when approaching Ras Hafun,
which has claimed several boats whose navigators
'V had wrongly identified this headland . .
:a The time of departure is critical, as the transi-
r tional period is very short and the NE monsoon can
:hj· sometimes arrive· before the middle of October,
o.~ when both winds and current change direction.
,Alternatively, the passage can be made at the begin-
seas. Although strong, the winds will be favourable
as far as the Horn of Africa, but in the Gulf of Aden
strong westerly winds will make it very difficult to
reach Bab el Mandeb.
If this passage is made during the NE monsoon
it is better to wait until the end of March, so as to
arrive north of the equator at the change of mon-
soons. On leaving Mombasa, easting should be
made south of the equator, which should be crossed
in about longitude 53°E. The best tack should be
sailed from there northwards so as to pass between
Socotra and Cape Guardafui.
Boats making this passage at the optimum time,
in late April or early May, on leaving Mombasa at
WP IT171 should sail a course parallel to the coast
and cross the equator at WP IT172. Continuing par-
allel to the coast, the route then passes through WP
IT173 to WP IT174, off Ras Hafun. From here the
course turns almost due north to WP !Tl 75, NE of
Cape Guardafui, to pass between Socotra and the
Horn of Africa. Having passed the Horn of Africa,
the route enters the Gulf of Aden and makes for WP
IT176. From that point, boats bound for Djibouti

E
wl
ning of the SW monsoon, when winds might be
lighter. If the passage is made at the height of the
SW monsoon, in July or August, one must be pre-
should set a course for WP IT! 77 in the Bay of
Tadjoura. Those planning to stop in Aden should
alter course for WP IT178. See route IT16 for details

~j
pared to put up with very strong winds and· rough on Djibouti and Aden.

gs
ail
etj
!'~I
IT18 Kenya to Sri Lanka

I
c9
isl
p~
I
I
I
I
I
 IT20 SOUTHBOUND RO UTES

This is a route strictly for the SW monsoon, when
both winds and current will be favourable. On leav-
ing Mombasa at WP IT181, the route runs parallel
to the African coast to take full advantage of the
favourable current. After the equator is crossed at
WP IT182, the course can be altered for WP IT183.
From there, a course can be set for WP IT184, north
of Ihavandifullu Atoll, in the Eight Degree Channel
north of the Maldives. Having cleared the Eight
Degree Channel, the course can be altered for WP
IT185 at the entrance into Western Channel that
leads into Galle harbour.
During the recommended period there is no dan-
ger of cyclones in the southern part of the Arabian
Sea. Route IN25 (page 375) gives directions for the
continuation of the route to Malaysia and
Singapore. ·

IT20 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

IT21 Maldives to Chagos 392
IT22 Red Sea to East Africa 392
IT23 Red Sea to South Indian Ocean 393

Trnnsequatorial routes in the Indian Ocean

f
\

391
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCEAN

IT21 Maldives to Chagos

I
J
+
T

j
T
t
I
+
The best time to make this passage is during the NE
monsoon when favourable winds will be found
both north and south of the equator. From May to
made during the NE monsoon, the recommended
route passes to the west of the islands.
Having left Male through Wadu Channel, from
t
November the predominant direction of the winds WP 1T211, the course turns SW to pass through the
is southerly and even during the transitional peri- channel between North Nilandhe and Ari Atolls.
od boats have experienced a high proportion of From WP IT212 the cours~ turns Sand crosses the
southerly winds, so the only time when one can be equator in WP IT213. From there, the course con-
sure of fair winds is at the height of the NE mon- tinues almost due south to WP IT214, north of
soon. Permission must be obtained from the Peros Banhos in the Chagos Archipelago.
authorities in Male if one wishes to visit the south- Diego Garcia, the main island of the group, is a
ern Maldives and possibly clear out at Ad~u, the military base leased by the British government to
southernmost atoll of the group. the USA and a stop in that island is only permit- I'
T
Depending on the monsoon, the Maldives will be ted in an emergency. However, boats can stop in t
passed to the east or west. Because all islands are most other islands of the Chagos Archipelago,
low and there are only a few navigational lights, Peros Banhos and the Salomon Islands being the l
navigation in the area is very difficult, the situation most convenient stops for those arriving from the
being compounded by the strong currents that north. The recommended anchorage at Peros
sweep through the archipelago. For this reason, it
is probably safer to sail in the lee of the islands. As
Banhos is in the lee of Fouquet Island, on the south
side of the large lagoon.
1
it is assumed that the passage to Chagos will be [
i
!
J.
.\.
'
L

IT22 Red Sea to East Africa

l
.~

392

Because Kenya and other points along the east
coast of Africa are easier to reach during the NE
monsoon, passages to that area should be planned
for that time. The major difficulty usually occurs
soon after the Red Sea has been left behind, when
consistent easterly winds make it difficult to get out
of the Gulf of Aden. Once the Horn of Africa has
been weathered, favourable winds and current
ensure a fast sail along the east coast of Africa. For
this reason, southbound passages through the Red
Sea should take place in the autumn, so that the
Gulf of Aden is crossed at the change of seasons,
in late October or early November. However, arriv-
ing too early off the Horn of Africa carries the risk
of the NE monsoon not yet being established. It is
therefore a matter of weighing up the disadvan-
tages of contrary winds in the Gulf of Aden against
the advantages of favourable wfods and current
along the coast of East Africa.
Having passed through Bab el Mandeb, from WP
IT23 Red Sea to South Indian Ocean
IT20 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
IT221, a direct course leads to WP IT222, off the
Hom of Africa, which is rounded by setting course
for WP IT223, off Cape Guardafui. From there.the
course goes due south to WP IT224 off Ras Hafun
and then runs parallel to the African coast passing
through WP IT225 and crossing the equator at WP
IT226. A first port of entry into Kenya is at Lamu.
The other two official ports of entry are Malindi
(3 "13'S, 40 "07'E) and Mombasa (4 "04'S, 39"41 'E).
During the SW monsoon the coast of Africa can
only be reached by taking a roundabout route via
the Seychelles. Having passed north of Socotra, the
course leads SE and crosses the equator as far west
as the winds will permit. Having met the SE trade
winds between latitudes 2 "Sand 4 "S, the course can
be shaped to pass north of the Seychelles and on to
Kenya. Alternatively a stop can be made in the
Seychelles and East Africa reached later. See also
routes IS42 and IS43 (pages 415 and 416).
393
 TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCE AN
Although most yacht traffic in the Red Sea is from
south to north, every year a number of boats sail
to various destinations in the South Indian Ocean
by this more direct route from Europe and the
Mediterranean.
Similar considerations apply for the first part of
the voyage as far as the Horn of Africa as
described in route IT22. Passages to the Seychelles
during the NE monsoon (route IT23A) benefit from
favourable conditions once the Hom of Africa has
been left behind. Therefore the early part of the
voyage should coincide with the transition period
to avoid contrary winds in the Gulf of Aden. From
I WP IT233, off Cape Guardafui, the direct route
I crosses the equator at WP IT234. The next WP 11'235
I lies halfway between Bird and Denis, the north-
·I ernmost Seychelles Islands. From there, a course
i can be set for WP IT236, three miles north of the
I entrance into Port Victoria. Port Control should be
I contacted on VHF channel 16. Arriving yachts must
anchor 3 cables north of Victoria lighthouse.
The SW monsoon provides better conditions for
reaching the further island groups in the South
Indian Ocean, such as Chagos. On the route from
the Red Sea to Chagos and Mauritius (route IT23B),
easting is made north of the equator, which is
crossed between longitudes 70 'E and 72 'E. Landfall
in Chagos is made at WP 11'239, north of Peros
Banhos. Southbound from Chagos the same direc-
tions apply as for route !S36 (page 412). A
September passage from the Red Sea would also
benefit from more favourable sailing conditions for
the next leg to Mauritius, provided it takes place
before the start of the cyclone season in the South
Indian Ocean. For boats which have reached the
South Indian Ocean towards the end of the year, the
next leg of the voyage from either the Seychelles or
Chagos to destinations further south should be
postponed until after the end of the cyclone season
in the South Indian Ocean. See also route I541 (page
414).
 17
WINDS AND ·
CURRENTS OF THE
SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
he weather in the tropical zone of the South
T Indian Ocean is greatly influenced by the
advance of the North Indian monsoon south of the
equator during the northern winter and its corre-
sponding retreat during summer. Outside of the
tropics the weather follows a normal pattern.
The Southeast trade winds
These winds blow on the equatorial side of the
counterclockwise circulation of air that exists
around the area of high pressure situated in about
latitude 30'5. Compared to the other oceans, the
South Indian high rarely consists of a single cell and
often contains a succession of east moving anticy-
clonic systems. The trade winds blow on their
north side and form a wide belt that stretches across
the ocean from Western Australia to Madagascar
and the coast of Africa. Between July and
September this belt spreads over a very large area
and becomes continuous with the SE trade winds
of the South Pacific. The entire belt moves north
and south throughout the year, its northern limit
varying from latitude 2'5 in August to latitude 12'5
in January. The fluctuation of the southern limit is
less pronounced, from 24 'Sin August to 30'5 in
January.
The average strength of these trade winds is
between 10 and 15 knots in summer and 15 to 20
kno\s in winter. Over the central region, the wind
blows steadily from SE or ESE, especially from May
to September when the SW monsoon is in force
north of the equator.
The Northwest monsoon
From November to March, when the ITCZ is situ-
ated south of the equator, the NE monsoon of the
North Indian Ocean is drawn into the southern
hemisphere. Because of the rotation of the earth it
is deflected to the left and becomes a NW wind in
the northern part of the South Indian Ocean. Winds
are generally light and vary considerably both in
direction and strength during this period. The
weather is often squally and unsettled.
Monsoons of the Indonesian
Archipelago
The weather pattern of the Indonesian.Archipelago
is more seasonal than that of the adjacent areas,
which are dominated by the two monsoons. The SE
monsoon generally lasts from April to September
and is replaced by a NW monsoon from October till
March. Though neither of them is very strong, the
SE monsoon is the more consistent both iii strength
and in direction, particularly during July and
August when it becomes continuous with the SE
trade winds of the South Pacific and Indian
Oceans. During the NW monsoon, the direction of
the winds is predominantly NW, although their
strength and consistency diminish further south.
395
WINDS AND CURREN TS O F THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
South of latitude 4 ·s the weather is often squally
alternating with calms, variable winds and rain.
Variables
On the polar side of the SE trade wind belt there is
an area of light variable winds which coincides
with the high pressure region. The axis of this high
is situated in about latitude 30'5 in winter, moving
further sou th towards latitude 35'5 during the
summer. The weather varies greatly within this
zone, which has similar characteristic's to the Horse
Latitudes of the Atlantic Ocean.
Westerlies
Westerly winds prevail on the polar side of the
South Indian Ocean high pressure region. The
almost continuous passage of depressions from
west to east causes the wind to vary considerably
Equatorial Current
~
,..___
Southern Ocean Current
Indian Ocean currents - SW monsoon
396
in direction and strength. Particularly in the
higher latitudes of the Roaring Forties and further
south, the frequency of gales is high, the weather
cold, and the seas rough.
Tropical storms
The cyclone season of the South Indian Ocean lasts
from November to May, although. December to
April are considered to be the dangerous months,
as cyclones occur only rarely in November and
May. The month with the highest frequency of
storms is January.
The willy-willies that affect the coasts of Wand
NW Australia occur mostly between December and
April. They can extend as far as the Timer Sea and
Arafura Sea, the latter being also subject to South
Pacific cyclones that occasionally hit Northern
Australia. Their season is from December to
March.
·i
I
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
Currents
The main surface circulation of the South Indian
Ocean is counterclockwise but because of the mon-
soons of the North Indian Ocean there is only one
Equatorial Current. The west flowing Equatorial
Current always lies south of the equator, its north-
ern limit varying between latitudes 6 'S and lO'S
depending on longitude and season. The limit is
nearer the equator during the SW monsoon of the
North Indian Ocean. On the western side of the
ocean, the northern part of the current flows past
Madagascar until it reaches the coast of Africa. The
current splits in two, one branch following the coast
in a northerly direction, the other setting south into
the Mozambique Channel. This becomes the
Mozambique Current which further south alters its
name to that of the Agulhas Current.
The Agulhas Current contains not just the
waters o.f the Mozambique Current but also those
of the southern branch of the Equatorial Current.
The two currents meet off the coast of Africa in
a bout latitude 28 'S from where the combined cur-
rent sets strongly SW before it passes the Cape of
Good Hope into the South Atlantic. One part of the
Agulhas Current branches off to the SE where it
joins the Southern Ocean Current. The south side
of the main circulation of the South Indian Ocean
is formed by this current which sets in an E and NE
direction. The eastern side of this counterclockwise
movement is formed by the West Australian
Current, which sets in a NW direction along the
west coast of Australia. Eventually it passes into
the Equatorial Current, thus completing this giant
cycle.
397
 18
ROUTES IN THE
SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
efore the Red Sea route became the more pop-
B ular way to complete a circumnavigation, most
boats used to sail around the Cape of Good Hope
on their way to the Atlantic. Nowadays the maj-
ority of cruising boats use the northern route and
this has resulted in a considerable drop in the num-
ber of boats sailing through the South Indian
Ocean. Occasionally, boats sailing south through
the Red Sea make their way into the South Indian
Ocean, but very few go further than Kenya or the
Seychelles.
For those who are on a world voyage and plan
to take the southern route, there are various factors
to be taken into account at the planning stages. The
most important factor is to make the passage
around the Cape of Good Hope at the most
favourable time, which is during the summer
months, from December to March. Such a timing
means that the crossing of the South Indian
Ocean takes place during the safe season, when no
cyclones can be expected south of the equator. The
cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean lasts from
November to April and passages during this time
should be avoided. Although cyclones have been
recorded in other months too, notably the cyclone
of July 1871, which originated south of Sumatra, it
Is generally agreed that May to October is a per-
fectly safe time to cross the South Indian Ocean. As

eo•e

1522
2565

20'$

40'$

eo•e

ISIO Routes from Australia and Indonesia

398

the South Atlantic is free of cyclones, the onward
voyage can start off from Cape Town at practical-
ly any time of the year although, as stated earlier,
better weather will be found in summer, from
December to March. Because of the conveniently
placed island groups in the South Indian Ocean,
most boats that sail this route do it in stages by call-
ing at Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling, Mauritius,
Reunion, and finally Durban. If more time is avail-
able a worthwhile detour can be made to the
Chagos Archipelago.
A warning has to be given regarding the leg
around South Africa. Several circumnavigators
have encountered the worst weather of their voy-
age along this route where a sudden SW gale can
create extremely dangerous conditions when it hits
the south flowing Agulhas current. Boats have been
1510 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA
ISll Torres Strait to Darwin
IS12 Torres Strait to Bali
IS13 Darwin to Ambon
IS14 Darwin to Bali
1815 Darwin to Christmas Island
1816 Western Australia to Cocos Keeling
IS17 Western Australia to Bass Strait
Most boats on a world voyage only touch Northern
Australia briefly before sailing on to Bali and
beyond. Although a cruising permit is required for
those wishing to visit the Indonesian archipelago,
it is usually possible to make a stop in Benoa on the
island of Bali, where the authorities appear to be
I more tolerant, although some people have had to
pay a fine for stopping there without a permit.
Benoa is therefore a favourite destination for most
I
I
· boats heading west, both those intending to con-
tinue their voyage through the North Indian Ocean
and those taking the southern route via the Cape
I
I
of Good Hope. The routes starting off from
I
~
l.
I
1510 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA
knocked down, pooped, and even lost on this
stretch, so it is well worth considering the alter-
natives before becoming committed to this route.
Nevertheless, with due care and access to weath-
er information, any well found boat should be able
to pass even this hurdle. Some useful tips are given
in the relevant sections, mainly in routes IS52 and
IS63 (pages 420 and 427).
The island groups scattered across the centre of
the Indian Ocean continue to attract a number of
cruising boats every year, although their number
does not appear to be increasing. On the other
hand, more boats are visiting the east coast of
Africa, cruising boats being now welcomed or at
least tolerated in most African countries bordering
on the Indian Ocean.
400
400
402
402
403
404
405
Northern Australia are under the influence of the
I
two monsoons. The SE monsoon, lasting from May
until September, has the more pleasant weather as I
well as favourable winds. The NW monsoon coin-
cides with the cyclone season in the tropical part
of the South Indian Ocean, and for this reason few .!
cruising boats stay in the areas affected by tropi-
cal storms between late November and March.
During that time it may be tempting to sail to the
southern part of Australia, which is und.er the influ-
ence of westerly winds for most of the year, but
very few cruising boats venture that way.
399
ROUTES I N THE SOUTH INDIA N OCEAN
1511 Torres Strait to Darwin
During the SE monsoon, from the middle of April
to the end of September or early October, winds on
this route are mostly favourable. To reach Darwin
there is a choice of either taking a short cut through
the Van Diemen Gulf or by sailing around the west
of Bathurst Island. Because of the strong tidal
streams in Dundas and Clarence Straits, and the
difficult navigation in the approaches to Darwin,
the roundabout route is often quicker, altl)ough it
is longer. .Those who have more time available
might prefer to cover the entire distance from the
Torres Strait to Darwin in daily stages as there are
plenty of good anchorages from Cape Arnhem
onward.
Having reached the Arafura Sea, the route to
Darwin is the saine as that for boats which have fol-
lowed the inshore route from North Queensland.
From WP IS111, west of Thursday Island, at the
western end of the Prince of Wales Channel, a west-
erly course is set which passes close to the north of
Booby Island. By setting a course for WP 15112 the
route avoids all dangers off the north coast of
1512 Torres Strait to Bali
400
Australia. From that point the course can be altered
for WP IS113 to pass through Dundas and Clarence
Straits. Because of the strong tidal sets and near
impossibility of clearing the straits in one daylight
period, this route is not recommended. Those who
are taking it must allow for the strong currents,
which usually set either north or south.
The route around both Melville and Bathurst
Islands, although longer, is recommended and is the
route most commonly used. If tl1is offshore route is
taken, from WP IS112 a course can be set for WP
ISl 14, NW of Bathurst Island. The course should be
changed again for WP IS115, off Cape Fourcroy, and
finally altered for WP 15116 at the start of the main
shipping channel into Darwin. If arriving from out-
side Australia, boats are required to give at least
three hours notice by contacting Darwin Port
Authority on VHF channel 16 or HF 2182 kHz.
Because of the large tidal range, the easiest place to
come alongside is Fishermen's Wharf and this
should be requested when arranging clearance.

For most people the timing of this passage is cru-
cial for the later stages of their voyage. Most boats
bound for the South Indian Ocean pass through the
Torres Strait between June and August when the
best sailing conditions can be expected on this
route. After the Arafura Sea has been crossed, the
same directions apply as for those setting off from
Darwin (route IS14). lf one is too late in the season,
the best way to avoid encountering a cyclone en
route is by sailing along the north coast of the
southern Indonesian islands where cyclones are not
known to occur. Boats bound for Singapore and the
North Indian Ocean have more time at their dis-
posal than those intending to sail around the Cape
of Good Hope, so they tend to pass through the
Torres Strait later, in September or even early
October. This means that they will have missed the
best time for the passage to Bali and should be pre-
pared for light winds and calms on that section.
The direct route from Torres Strait to Bali cross-
es both the Arafura and Timor Seas, where the
weather is dominated by the SE and NW mon-
soons. The trade winds blow strongly from May till
August from between SE and SSE and there is a
considerable sea. At the start and end of the season
the wind is often E backing to ENE. The SE mon-
soon lasts until the end of October or even
November, although SE winds are both lighter and
less consistent after the middle of September. It is
then followed by variable winds and calms. As the
NW monsoon coincides with the cyclone season,
passages during this time are best avoided. The
seasons in the Timor Sea follow almost the same
pattern. Sometimes during the SE monsoon the air
is laden with dust brought from the Australian
desert and visibility can be poor. In the vicinity of
land the winds are generally influenced by the con-
tour of the islands, while in the channels between
the islands the winds often blow with great force.
The effect of the tidal streams is felt particular-
ly in the area between Darwin and the Ashmore
1810 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA
Reef. For westgoing boats it is mostly favourable
both east and west of Ashmore Reef. West of
Ashmore Reef the westerly set can reach 2 knots.
A weaker countercurrent, of up to half a knot, may
make itself felt for a few hours every d ay. Further
west, the currents in the Lombok Strait run at con-
siderable rates and can produce dangerous ~on­
ditions in the approaches to Benoa harbour when
a strong wind is blowing against the current.
During the SE monsoon, the main direction of the
current is southerly.
From WP IS121, west of Thursday Island, at the
western end of the Prince of Wales Channel, a west-
erly course can be set which passes close to the
north of Booby Island. By setting a course for WP
IS122 the route avoids all dangers off the north
coast of Australia. From there, the course should
be altered for WP IS123, 20 miles south of Roti
Island, SW of Timor. This course stays well to the
north of the oil drilling area around 12 ·oo·s,
125 °00'E and also avoids the Hibernia and Ashmore
reefs. Karmt Shoals will be crossed en route, but the
area presents no known dangers. Making a detour
through Roti Channel, between Roti and Timor, is
not recommended as currents are very strong.
From WP IS123 the route then goes to WP IS124,
south of Dana Island. The course can then be
altered for WP IS125, SW of Nusa Penida, in the
approaches to Benoa harbour, Bali's main port. A
buoyed channel'leads through the reef, which is
clearly visible in daylight. Entering at night is not
recommended as often the lights are not working
and the leading lights can be confusing. Because of
the strong currents it is preferable to spend the
night out at sea, although with care it may be pos-
sible to anchor for the night near the landfall buoy
if there is not too much swell.
The opening of the new Bali International
Marina in 1994 has considerably improved dock-
ing facilities in Benoa harbour. The marina is locat-
ed in the NE of the harbour. Anchoring space is
401
 R OUTES IN THE SOUTH I NDIAN O CEAN
rather limited and is restricted to the area south of
the main wharf. Entry formalities are completed at
IS13 Darwin to Ambon
I
1·
This route is used mainly by boats taking part in
the ~nual Darwin to Ambon Race. ParticiJ2jllltl; in
this event, which is organised by the Darwin
Sailing Club, automatically obtain the compulso-
.ry cruising_permit for Indonesia ..For thOserri. pos-
session of a cruising permit, this route allows one
to start exploring that vast archipelago in one of
its most interesting parts. The best time to head
north is at the height of the SE monsoon, when the
weather is settled and favourable winds can be
IS14 Darwin to Bali
402
the various offices lining the causeway leading into
Denpasar.
expected for most of the way.
Taking as a departure point WP 15131 at the start
of the main shipping channel into Darwin, a course
can be set for WP 15132 off Point Fourcroy. The
course then runs almost due north to WP 15133 in
Selat Bahar, the passage between Bahar and
Sermata Islands. From there, the route across the
Banda Sea avoids all dangers by setting course for
WP IS134 off Nusanive, at the entrance into Ambon
(Yos Sudarso).

This route leads south of all Indonesian islands. The
only dangers on the direct route are the Hibernia
and Ashmore reefs to the south of Timor Island.
The passage can be broken at Ashmore Reef, espe-
cially if the winds are light. The green reflection or
blink of the shallow water can often be seen in the
sky long before the actual reef is sighted. Currents
in the area are usually strong (see also route IS12).
The best recommended anchorage is in the NW
corner of the reef, off a small cay. In good visibili-
ty it is fairly easy to thread one's way among the
coral heads. The reef is often visited by Indonesian
fishermen.
From WP I5141, outside the entrance into the
main shipping channel into Darwin, the direct
route (IS14A) leads to WP 15142. There are oil plat-
forms in the area 12'00'5, 125'00'E, which should
be avoided if possible. The course should then be
altered for WP IS143 to pass halfway between
Hibernia and Ashmore Reefs . The alternative is to
take a more northerly course on leaving Darwin so
as to pass to the north of both the oilfields and the
above two reefs (route !514B). In this case from WP
15141 the course should be set for WP 15144.
Although the oil platforms are easily seen, both in
day time and at night, one should not pass too dose
to them so as not to get entangled in the anchoring
cables which stretch a long way away from the plat-
form and are not easily seen. From either of the
above waypoints !Sl 43 or IS144 it is then a dear run
to WP 15145, SW of Nusa Penida, in the approach-
es to Benoa Harbour.
During the SE monsoon the prevailing winds
both in the Arafura and Timar Seas are from the SE
or E. The only difficulty likely to be encountered
are the very strong currents in the Lombok Strait
in the approaches to Benoa harbour. Because of the
currents and the meandering entrance channel to
Benoa, this port should only be entered in daylight.
A strong current will be encountered SW of
Lombok where the ocean current setting along the
southern coasts of the islands meets the outflow-
1515 Darwin to Christmas Island
1510 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA
ing current from the Lombok Channel, separating
the islands of Lombok and Bali. The area abounds
with ov.erfalls and rough breaking seas and can be
quite dangerous in strong winds, which fortunately
do not occur too often. Also one should be prepared
for ghost readings on the depth sounder with sud-
den shallow readings caused by the different lay-
ers of water.
The best passages on this route are made during
July and August, when the SE winds are most reg-
ular. At the beginning and especially at the end of
the SE monsoon the winds become irregular, SSW
winds sometimes being encountered in the Timor
Sea in October. The south side of the Indonesian
islands should not be approached until close to Bali
on account of contrary currents. During April, and
also in November and December, winds on this
route are often light and there are prolonged peri-
ods of calms.
From outside Benoa, a buoyed channel leads
through the reef, which is clearly visible in day-
light. Entering the harbour at night is not recom-
mended as often the lights are not working and the
leading lights can be confusing. Because of the
strong currents it is preferable to spend the night
out at sea, although with care it may be possible to
anchor for the night near the landfall buoy if there
is not too much swell. The opening of the new Bali
International Marina in 1994 has considerably
improved docking facilities in Benoa harbour. The
marina is located in the NE part of the harbour.
Anchoring space is rather limited and is restricted
to the area south of the main wharf. Clearance for-
malities are completed at the various offices lining
the causeway leading to Denpasar. The marina
office may help with the clearance formalities. A
cruising permit is required for all sailing boats
wishing to visit Indonesia. However, on some occa-
sions boats arriving in Benoa without a permit have
been allowed by the Harbour Master to stay a few
days for reprovisioning. ·
403
ROUTES IN THE SO UTH I N DIA N OCEAN
This is normally a fast sail in 15-25 knot SE winds
if the passage is timed for July or August. If it is left
later than the first half of September, the trade
winds can be less reliable and there is a greater
chance of calms and light variable winds. As far as
Ashmore reef, the same directions apply as those
for route IS14. In strong winds or poor visibility it
might be safer to avoid both the oil platforms in
approximately 12 "OO'S, 125 "OO'E and the two reefs
to the west of them by taking a route which pass-
es well to the south or north of the area. From WP
IS153 between Ashmore and Hibernia reefs, a direct
course leads outside all dangers to WP IS154, two
miles east of Christmas Island. The best anchorage
is at Flying Fish Cove. Boats should fly the Q flag
on arrival and will be visited by customs. The rest
of entry formalities will be completed ashore. As
the island is an Australian territory, similar visa
requirements apply as in Australia itself and those
IS16 Western Australia to Cocos Keeling
Tropical storms affect the area crossed by this route
during the summer months, from the middle of
November to April, and a passage during this peri-
od is therefore not recommended. Better sailing
conditions usually occur in May-June and
September-October, when the SE trade winds
either have not reached their full strength or have
started to diminish. Occasionally strong squalls
404
arriving without a visa may not be allowed to stay.
The strict Australian food quarantine regulations
are not applied as rigorously as on the mainland.
At Christmas Island the SE trade winds blow
almost continuously from May until December, but
in the first months of the year, when the NW mon-
soon is established in the area to the north of the
island, the NW monsoon makes itself felt with
occasional heavy rains, strong winds, and thun-
derstorms. In January and February winds can
blow strongly from the west or north. The island
is normally spared the cyclones which affect the
area between it and North West Australia.
The anchorage at Christmas Island can become
uncomfortable when the trade winds are at their
strongest, a good incentive to up anchor and sail
the 500 miles to Cocos Keeling, where there is a
choice of safe and beautiful anchorages.
have been encountered on this run, with sudden
winds of up to 50 knots.
A good port of departure from Western Australia
is Broome. On leaving the port one should move
immediately offshore as the reefs north of
Gantheaume Point are reported to be more exten-
sive than charted. From WP ISl 61 a course can be
set for WP IS162, north of Mermaid Reef, so that all

dangers south of that reef are left to port. The direct
route leads to WP IS163, six miles east of Direction
Island on South Cocos. As the only powerful light
is at the airport, on the SW side of the lagoon, the
atoll should be approached carefully at night. The
entrance into the lagoon at South Cocos is between
Horsburgh and Direction Island. The recom-
mended anchorage for yachts is south of Direction
Island and is reached by leaving Direction Island
1817 Western Australia to Bass Strait
Sailing along the south of AustraBa can be done
either in one long leg to Bass Strait or in easy coastal
stages by stopping at various places en route. The
offshore route has the advantage of more constant
winds as the Great Australian Bight is renowned
for its baffling winds in summer. If the transocean
route from South Africa has been left for a detour
to Western Australia, it is advisable to regain that
route after rounding Cape Leeuwin. Extreme
caution must be exercised when approaching Bass
Strait from westward, especially at night or in bad
visibility, because of the strong currents that sweep
through the strait.
Leaving Fremantle at WP ISl71, NW of Garden
Island, the course runs down the west coast of
Australia to WP IS172, off Cape Naturaliste. The
1510 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA
1I 4 mile to port. A marker shows where to turn to
port to reach the yellow quarantine buoy. Flight
Services should be called on VHF channel 16 and
customs, immigration, and quarantine officers will
come to the boat. Strict food quarantine regulations
apply here ·and only Australian food products,
labelled as such, will be allowed. Australian
visas are compulsory.
next course alteration, to WP IS173, takes the route
south of Cape Leeuwin. From WP IS174 a direct
course can be set across the AustraBan Bight to WP
IS175, north of King Island, in the western
approaches to Bass Strait.
For vessels bound for Sydney direct from ei ther
Western Australia or even Cape Town, the passage
through Bass Strait is only recommended in win-
"ter. During the summer better conditions are met
by keeping south of Tasmania. After passing
Tasmania, the course should only turn north after
longitude 155 "E has been passed, so as to avoid the
full effect of the south-setting Australian current
and to approach Sydney from offshore where the
current is much weaker and the wind s steadier.
405
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
1820 ROUTE S FRO M I ND ONESIA
IS21 Bali to Christmas Island
IS22 Bali to Chagos
Bali occupies a unique position on the world sail-
ing routes because of its convenient position astride
the main cruising route around the world. Since it
is also a very attractive island with lots to see and
do, Bali is rarely bypassed by anyone sailing
through the area . There are only three main routes
out of Bali, one destined for the islands of the South
Indian Ocean, a direct route to Sri Lanka south of
Sumatra, and one heading across the equator to
Singapore. The first of these routes is used by boats
bound for South Africa as well as those bound for
the Red Sea by a more indirect route via the
Seychelles and possibly East Africa. A small
number of boats also use Bali as a departure point
for por ts in Northern and Western Australia.
Because of the prevailing winds these routes are
best sailed at the change of seasons, in April or
October. At the present thne the most frequented
route out of Bali is the transequatorial route to
Singapore ITll (page 382).
The area around Bali is under the influence of the
NW and SE monsoons, although the high moun-
tains and irregular coastline cause significant mod-
ifications to local weather conditions and the high
Indonesian islands often block the monsoons com-
pletely. Strong winds are quite rare, although some
squalls can be violent, and as these often develop
suddenly they can be quite dangerous to those
caught unaware. Tropical cyclones are also very
rare, the only area affected being near Trmor and
Flores Islands, with less than one storm per year,
in the period from January to April.
1521 Bali to Christmas Island
406
406
407
Although conditions may vary locally as the
Indonesian archipelago stretches over a consider-
able portion of the ocean, generally t~e SE monsoon
lasts from April to October and the NW monsoon
from November to March. Among the islands to the
east of Java, which includes Bali, the SE monsoon
blows strongly from the ESE, being at its height·
during June, July, and August. The NW monsoon
sets in about December and attains its maximum
strength in January. The NW monsoon is the wet
season, with the highest rainfall in December and
January, when squalls are most frequent.
Along the northern shores of the higher islands,
winds in both seasons are steadier during the night
hours, being influenced by land and sea breezes.
For this reason most Indonesian sailing craft tend
to make their passages at night, keeping close to the
shore. Land and sea breezes are very important for
those planning to sail in these waters and are very
evident along the coasts of larger islands, although
weaker on smaller islands. These breezes are at
their strongest when the monsoons are weak. The
change from land to sea breeze occurs in the mid-
dle of the morning, while that from sea to land
breeze occurs shortly after sunset near mountain-
ous coasts and later in the night near flat country.
The force of the breeze decreases with distance
from the shore but can be felt up to 20 miles off-
shore. The breezes are strongest near mountainous
country sloping gradually to the sea and are also
stronger on dear days.
II
~

Generally pleasant sailing conditions can be
expected during the months when the majority of
boats make this passage, which is August and
September. The trade winds blow strongly in July
and August, but sometimes there are years when
the trade winds fail to be established and winds are
either very light or can blow at gale force for sev-
eral days. At Christmas Island the SE trade winds
blow almost continuously from May until
December, but in the first months of the year, when
the NW monsoon is established in the area to the
north of the island, the l\TW monsoon makes itself
felt with occasional heavy rains, strong winds, and
thunderstorms. In January and February winds can
1822 Bali to Chagos
This more direct route is preferred by those who are
not tempted by the usual detour via <;:hristmas and
Cocos Keeling Islands. The route from Bali runs
slightly north of latitude 10·s where good sailing
conditions can be expected throughout the SE mon-
soon and the risk of cyclones is almost nonexistent.
The route is joined south of Sumatra by boats that
have reached the Indian Ocean through the Sunda
Strait. Although the route from Bali is under the
general influence of the SE trade winds, strong
winds from the southern quarter are not unusual
during the winter months and they are often
accompanied by a big swell. Rough seas have been
encountered especially around longitude 90°E, the
disturbance being apparently caused by a subma-
rine mountain ridge.
Chagos enjoys South Indian Ocean weather with
SE trade winds from April to November, but as the
(
islands are close to the upper limit of the trade
' winds, they can be light and more variable. From
December to March, when the ITCZ moves south,
the NE monsoon is deflected south of the equator
1520 ROUTES FROM INDONES!A
blow strongly from the west or north. The island
is normally spared the cyclones which affect the
area between it and North West Australia .
From WP IS211, south of Benoa harbour, a direct
route runs south of Java and Sumatra to WP IS212,
two miles east of Christmas Island. The best
anchorage is at Flying Fish Cove. Boats should fly
the Q flag on arrival and will be visited by customs.
The rest of the entry formalities will be completed
ashore. As the island is an Australian territory, sim-
ilar visa requirements apply as in Australia itself
and those arriving without a visa may not be
allowed to stay. The strict Australian food quar-
antine regulations may also apply.
to give a NW flow of wind. The NW monsoon is not
so reliable, brings rain, and blows most strongly in
January and February. The period of the NW mon-
soon is also the cyclone season, but these storms
normally form south of Chagos and move in a
southerly direction. They almost never track
north towards the equator.
From WP 1S221, south of Benoa harbour, a direct
route runs south of Java and Sumatra to WP 1S222,
10 miles SE of Blenheim Reef. From there a course
can be set for WP IS223 close to the NW pass lead-
ing into the lagoon at Salomon Island. The lagoon
is entered through the NW pass and the recom-
mended anchorage is off Takamaka Island, on the
east side of the lagoon. Because of the extensive
reefs and absence of lights, except at Diego·Garcia
itself, the area should be approached with great
care. Special regulations apply to visitors to
Diego Garcia, which is a military base leased by the
UK to the USA. Only genuine emergency stops at
Diego Garcia are allowed, although the presence of
cruising boats is tolerated in the other islands.
407
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

1530 ROUTES IN THE

CENTRAL INDIAN OCEAN
1831 Christmas Island to Cocos Keeling 409
IS32 Cocos Keeling to Mauritius 409
1833 Cocos Keeling to Chagos 410
1834 Christmas Island to Chagos 411
IS35 Chagos to Seychelles 411
IS36 Chagos to Mauritius 412
IS37 Chagos to Madagascar 412

The islands of the South Indian Ocean provide one
of the most attractive cruising grounds in the
world, yet the number of boats that visit them is
very small. There are several reasons for this: the
remoteness of the islands from the major cruising
routes, the restrictions imposed on the movement
of cruising boats in some of the islands, either by
civil or military authorities, and the fact that by the
time they h ave reached the Indian Ocean most
sailors seem to have run out of time.
The routes linking the islands with each other, as
well as with neighbouring Africa, are mostly u nder
the influence of the SE trade winds, which last from
April until November. The best sailing season is the
sou thern winter, from June to September. In some
of the islands in lower latitudes, such as Chagos or
the Seychelles, the SE trade winds can be light and
more.variable, especially outside the peak winter
months. From December to March, when the ITCZ
moves south, the NE monsoon in the North Indian
Ocean is deflected south of the equator and pro-
vides a flow of NW winds. The weather in summer
is Jess attractive, a hot and humid NW monsoon in
the northwest and the danger of tropical cyclones
in the south.

so·e eo•e

SEYCHELLES... 0 G~ CHAGOS

975---,;~~ ,,
' • IS34 . .
ISJ3 2005
15?,? ~ <l
c ~ 5~0 CHRISTMAS
o ~ ISLAND
cocos
KEELING

20°S
I
20''$
I
I
I
I,
40' E 60°E ao•e 1oo•e
tI
IS30 Routes in the Central Indian Ocean
r
J
408 I

1531 Christmas Island to Cocos Keeling
During the SE trade wind season the winds on this
route are almost always favourable. Occasionally
the trades cease to blow for a day, but periods of
calms or light winds are usually short lived. The
one unpleasant feature of this route is the large
swell from the south or southwest. Because the
wind blows from the SE and the swell is almost at
right angles to the direction of the wind, the motion
can be very uncomfortable and it can also be tough
on selfsteering gears, which have sometimes bro-
ken under the strain of the violent motion.
A direct route links these two Australian pos-
sessions. From WP IS311, west of Christmas
Island, a course should be set for WP 15312, six
miles east of Direction Island on South Cocos. As
the only powerful light is at the airport, on the SW
side of the lagoon, the atoll should be approached
1532 Cocos Keeling to Mauritius
1530 ROUTES IN THE CENTRAL INDIAN OCEA N
carefully at night. The entrance into the large
lagoon is west of Direction Island and the recom-
mended anchorage is in its lee. To reach the ancl)or-
age, Direction Island is left 1/4 mile to port. A
marker shows where to turn to port to reach the
yellow quarantine buoy where arriving yachts
should anchor and wait for clearance. The Q flag
must be flown until cleared. Flight Services
should be called on VHF channel 16 and customs,
immigration, and quarantine officers will come to
the boat. Strict food quarantine regulations apply
and only Australian food products, labelled as
such, will be allowed. Occasionally, fresh produce
taken on board at Christmas Island has been con-
fiscated at Cocos Keeling. Australian visas are
compulsory.
409
ROUTES JN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
This long haul across the width of the South Indian
Ocean has the full benefit of the SE trade winds
during the southern winter months, from May to
October. These winds often blow at 20 to 25 knots
for days on end and sometimes reach gale force.
The pleasure of a fast passage is often marred by
an uncomfortable cross swell which rolls in relent-
lessly from the Southern Ocean. The weather is
generally rougher in the proximity of Cocos
Keeling and both winds and seas usually moder-
ate after the halfway mark to Mauritius has been
passed. The trade winds continue to blow consis-
tently in October, but the weather becomes more
squally and the chances of encountering gale force
winds are greater. Although it would appear that
by making a sweep to the north it would be pos-
sible to avoid the area with the highest frequency
of gale force winds, this does not seem to be the
case. Boats that have arrived in Mauritius by a more
roundabout way have encountered equally rough
conditions as those which sailed a direct course.
Boats normally leave the lagoon at South Cocos
by the Northern Entrance, although in good light
and if there is not a large swell, it is possible to
thread one's way SW across the lagoon and leave
1533 Cocos Keeling to Chagos
For the duration of the SE monsoon both winds and
current are favourable along this route.
Occasionally in July and August the trade winds
blow very strongly south of latitude 10'5, but these
conditions are less common further north. Better
sailing conditions are often encountered at the
beginning and end of the SE monsoon, September
being considered to be the best month. During the
NE monsoon of the North Indian Ocean, the influ-
ence of this monsoon makes itself felt as far south
as latitude 10°S. Between January and April
410
by the Western Entrance. The Northern Entrance,
however, is easier and therefore safer. Having left
Horsburgh Island to port, from WP IS321, NW of
that island, a direct course (route 1S32A) can be set
for WP IS322, three miles north of Round Island
north of Mauritius. From there the course should
be altered to sail along the NW coast to Port Louis,
the island's main harbour. The Port A,uthority must
be contacted on VHF channel 16 to obtain per-
mission to enter the port. Arriving yachts are nor-
mally directed to the customs dock.
Some boats break the journey to Mauritius by
calling in at Rodriguez (route IS32B), where cruis-
ing boats are welcome and local boats sometimes
sail out to guide the visitors in. If a stop there is
intended, from Cocos Keeling the course should be
set for WP IS323, off the north point of the island.
The main harbour is at Port Mathurin, where boats
have to clear in. Although the island belongs to
Mauritius, the clearance is only valid locally and
one must clear in again on arrival in Mauritius. The
winds between the two islands are often very
strong, especially at the peak of the SE trade winds,
in July and August, when winds of up to 50 knots
have been reported.
t
f
·~
winds are less constant in direction and usually
have a northerly component. The weather in the
transition period between monsoons is often
unsettled, with overcast skies and rain squalls,
often accompanied by violent winds. ·
Because of the restrictions that apply to boats
arriving in Diego Garcia it is better to make straight
for the islands on the north side of the archipelago,
such as Salomon or Peros Banhos, unless an emer-
gency call at Diego Garcia can be justified.
Having left the lagoon at Cocos Keeling through

the North Entrance, from WP lS331, NW of
Horsburgh Island, a direct course can be set for WP
IS332, 10 miles SE of Blenheim Reef. From there the
course can be altered for WP IS333 close to the l\TW
1534 Christmas Island to Chagos
There are few boats which bypass Cocos Keeling
Island and sail direct from Christmas Island to
Chagos. However, in unsettled weather it might be
preferable to sail a direct course, rather than make
the detour to the south. The winter months of May
to September provide both favourable winds and
current. The weather on this route is similar to that
on routes IS31 and IS33 to which reference should
be made. It should also be noted that Diego Garcia
is a restricted military island and anchorage must
be sought elsewhere in the Chagos Archipelago.
1535 Chagos to Seychelles
The SE monsoon should be favoured for this route
which has the best weather between May and
September, when both winds and current are
favourable. Near perfect sailing conditions have
been encountered by boats making this passage in
1830 ROUTES IN THE CENTRAL INDIAN OCE AN
pass leading into the lagoon at Salomon Island.
Because of the extensive reefs and absence of lights,
except at Diego Garcia itself, the area should be
approached with great care.
From WP IS341, west of Christmas Island, a
direct course leads to WP IS342, 10 miles SE of
Blenheim Reef. From there the course can be altered
for any of the islands and atolls in this uninhabit-
ed archipelago. The Salomon Islands, Peros
Banhos, and Egmont Islands are all popular with
cruising boats. The most convenient anchorage is
in Salomon lagoon. To reach it, from WP lS342 the
course should be altered for WP IS343, close to the
pass leading into the lagoon.
May and June. Later in the year the NE monsoon
starts making itself felt in the South Indian Ocean,
the transitional months of October and November
being associated with light winds, calm seas, and
the occasional violent rain squall.
411
 RO UTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
A good place to leave from Chagos is Peros
Banhos. Having left the large lagoon through the
NW Pass, from WP I5351, north of Diamond Island,
the route runs due west along parallel 5 'S. The route
is clear of dangers, but the Seychelles should be
· approached with caution because of the rocks and
reefs that surround them. The safest approach is to
make landfall at Frigate Island by setting course for
WP IS352, five miles SE of that island. From there
IS36 Chagos to Mauritius
A windward passage during most of the SE trade
wind season, this route can benefit from better
winds at the beginning and end of winter, when the
trade winds do not have too much south in them.
It has been noticed that the stronger the SE trade
winds, the more south there is in them and vice
versa. Therefore it may be worth avoiding this
route in July and August when the trade winds are
known to be quite blustery. Boats that have made
this passage in October have reported pleasant sail-
ing conditions. If the winds are easterly, it is pos-
sible to call first at Rodriguez Island before
continuing to Mauritius (see route 1532).
A good point of departure are the Egmont
IS37 Chagos to Madagascar
412
the course can be altered for WP IS353, north of St
Anne Island in the approaches to Port Victoria, the
capital located on Mahe, the main island of the
group. Beacons lead through the reefs into the har-
bour. Having contacted the Port Authority on VHF
channel 16, arriving yachts must anchor in the quar-
antine area north of Victoria lighthouse where they
will be boarded for clearance . ..
..
Islands, in the SE part of the Chagos archipelago.
From WP 15361, a direct course may be set for
Mauritius. The route passes well to the east of
Cargados Carajos Reef, which belongs to
Mauritius. Boats which have not yet cleared into
Mauritius are not allowed to stop there without
prior permission. The route leads to WP IS362,
three miles north of Round Island north of
Mauritius. From there the course should be altered
to sail along the NW coast to Port Louis, the
island's main harbour. The Port Authority must be
contacted on VHF channel 16 for permission to
enter the port. Arriving yachts are normally
directed to the customs dock.
 1540 ROUTES IN THE WESTERN INDIAN OCEAN

Although most cruising boats bound for South
Africa continue to sail the traditional route via
Mauritius, a route that goes through the
Mozambique Channel is gathering popularity,
especially as one is able to visit Madagascar on the
way. From WP IS371, north of the Egmont Islands,
in the SW part of the Chagos archipelago, the direct
route to Cap d' Ambre, the northern point of
Madagascar, cuts right through Saya de Matha
Bank, an area of strong tidal sets and rips. To avoid
the worst part of this area, and also to approach
Madagascar from a better angle, an initial course
should be set for WP IS372 and then WP IS373. The
main reason for using the latter waypoint is to sail
most of the remaining distance on the latitude of
Cap d' Ambre. The purpose of this is that as the SE
trade winds hit the mass of Madagascar, their direc-
tion becomes more southerly, therefore approach-
ing the island from the east, rather than NE, ensures
that the winds are met at a better angle. From WP
IS373 a course can be set for WP IS374, six miles
north of Cap d' Ambre. The nearest port of entry is
at Antseranana, on the island's west coast.

1540 ROUTES IN THE

WESTERN INDIAN OCEAN
IS41 Seychelles to Mauritius 414
1542 Seychelles to Comoros 415
IS43 Seychelles to East Africa 416
1544 Comoros to East Africa 416
1545 Comoros to Seychelles 417
I
1546 Comoros to South Africa 418 60"E
1543 SEYCHELLES
In spite of its many attractions, the western part of ----':="-----''-<a •
944 •
the South Indian Ocean is visited by few cruising
boats. The two island groups, the Seychelles and
the Comoros, are part of a triangular cruising route
between the African mainland and these offshore
islands. The area north of Madagascar is peppered
with reefs and small islands, which are a diver' s
paradise, but used to be a navigator' s nightmare
until satellite navigation took most of those wor- MAURITIUS.a 20•s
ries away. Nevertheless, the area should still be
approached with great caution as the positions of ""REUNION
many islands and reefs are incorrectly charted and
therefore do not agree with coordinates obtained
byGPS.
Weather conditions throughout the area bear a
certain similarity. In the Seychelles the SE trade 40°E 60' E
winds prevail from May to the middle of October,
although in some years they are not established IS40 Routes in the Western Indian Ocean

413
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
until June or even July. The SE season is the fine
weather period, with steady SE winds blowing in
July, August, and September. In November the
changeover to the NW monsoon is marked by
heavy squalls and rain. The NW monsoon is the
wet season and lasts until April. During these
months winds blow from the NW, W, or WSW.
Cyclones are practically unknown and if they do
pass through the vicinity it is usually around 200
miles to the south of Mahe.
In the Comoros, the NW monsoon commences at
IS41 Seychelles to Mauritius
A windward passage for most of the year, the tim-
ing of this route offers few alternatives, as the sea-
son when northerly winds are more frequent also
coincides with the cyclone season. If the passage is
made during the SE trade wind season, but outside
of the blustery months of July and August, better
conditions can be expected in May and early June,
or in October, two periods when the winds can be
more easterly.
In good light it is possible to use Cerf Passage
when leaving Mahe from Port Victoria. Otherwise
it is safer to use the main shipping channel. From
WP I5411, at the exit of Cerf Passage, a direct course
leads to Mauritius passing close to the west of
Coetivy Island, which should be approached
with care as it has been reported to lie some 3 miles
further west than its charted position. Similar cau-
tion should be exercised when passing west of
Agalega Island, which is also close to the direct
414
the end of October or early in November and lasts
until April. This is the hot and rainy season, which
is characterised by irregular winds and squally
weather. In the SE season winds blow more regu-
larly, although never too strong, their strength
being broken by the mass of neighbouring
Madagascar. The changeover between the seasons
is marked by calms, variable wind:i, and squally
weather. Occasionally cyclones reach the Comoro
Islands, the months with the highest risk being
February to April.
route. To stay clear of all these dangers, on depar-
ture from WP 15411 the course should be set to pass
through two intermediate waypoints, IS412 and
IS413, so as to stay at least 20 miles west of Agalega
and surrounding dangers. From WP IS413 the
course can be altered for WP 15414 in the approach-
es to Port Louis, the capital and main port. The Port
Authority must be contacted on VHF channel 16 to
obtain permission to enter the port. Arriving yachts
are normally directed to the customs dock.
Boats occasionally break this passage at the
Cargados Carajos Reef, which is close enough to
the direct route to warrant the detour. Such a
detour is made even more tempting if strong head-
winds are encountered, which is often the case. The
reef belongs to Mauritius and is visited by fishing
boats from that island. Cruising boats are not sup-
posed to stop there unless sheltering from bad
weather.

1542 Seychelles to Comoros
Because of the various island groups and numer-
ous reefs encountered on this route, and also the
likelihood of strong headwinds at the height of the
SE monsoon, when the direction of the wind
becomes increasingly southerly as the Comoros are
approached, most boats break up this passage into
shorter stages by stopping at some of the islands
en route. Because winds over 20 knots are the order
of the day at the height of the SE trade wind sea-
son, the passage should be undertaken at the start
of the season, although in April there is still the
small risk of a late cyclone.
After leaving Port Victoria on the main island of
Mahe, the course goes around the north of the
island to WP 15420, north of North Point. From
there the course can be set for WP JS421, NE of
Descroches Island, one of the Amirante Islands,
which has a well protected anchorage on its west
side used by boats making this passage. From WP
IS422, SW of Descroches Island, the route crosses
1540 ROUTE S IN THE WESTERN INDIAN O CEAN
the Amirante Bank to WP I5423, north of Boudeuse
Cay. This section should only be done in good light;
under any other conditions it would be safer to
make for WP I5424 to pass east of Marie Louise
Island and north of Alphonse Island.
Having left behind the last of these islands
belonging to the Seychelles, there is a choice of
routes to reach either the Comoros or Mayotte.
Although the latter belongs geographically to the
same group, as a French territory it is separate from
the other Comoros. The direct route for the
Comoros (IS42A) is sailed by setting course from
WP IS423 for WP IS425. This route passes between
Cosmoledo Group and Assumption Island before
the course is altered for WP IS426, north of Grand
Comoro. The west coast of that island is then fol-
lowed to the main port at Moroni. The only other
official port of entry is Mutsamudu on Anjou an
Island. To reach it, from WP 15425 the course should
be altered for WP IS427.
415
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH }NOIAN O CEAN
A direct route can be sailed to Mayotte (IS42B)
by setting a course from WP 15423 for WP I5428.
The course can then be altered for WP 15429, in the
approaches to Dzaoudzi, the official port of entry
IS43 Seychelles to East Africa
Favourable winds can be expected on this route
throughout the SE trade wind season, from April
till October, the months with the most consistent
winds being May to September. During this peri-
od the current is also favourable, setting westward,
but it turns northward before reaching the African
coast.
From WP 15431, north of Mahe' s North Point, the
route goes due west to pass north of the Amirante
Islands through WP 1S432, 10 miles north of North
Island. At night or in poor visibility the islands
should be passed at a safe distance as they are low
and the light on North Island is reported to be out
of action occasionally. Those who wish to stop can
do so by following the directions in I542.
From WP 15432, the routes split according to their
East African destination. Boats bound for Kenya
IS44 Comoros to East Africa .
416
into Mayotte. The Port Captain should be contacted
on VHF channel 16 for instructions before the
perimeter reef is entered .
should set a course for WP IS433, in the approach-
es to Mombasa. Port Control should be contacted
on VHF channels 12or16. Other ports of entry into
Kenya are Lamu (2' 18'S, 40 '55'E) and Malindi
(3 '13'S, 40 '07'E).
Boats bound for Tanzania should set a course
from WP IS432 for WP 15434, in the approaches to
Dar es Salaam. Arriving yachts should anchor in
the inner harbour and wait to be visited by the var-
ious officials. The other ports of entry into
Tanzania are Zanzibar (6'10'S, 39'11'E), Mtwara
(10 '15'S, 40 '12'E), and Tanga (5 '04'S, 39'06'E).
Formalities in Tanga appear to be the easiest and
Tanga Signal Station should be contacted on VHF
chanpel 12 before proceeding to Dhow Wharf for
clearance.

Favourable winds prevail along this route during
the SE monsoon and there is also a north-setting
coastal current throughout the year, which can
reach as much as 4 knots at the peak of the SE mon-
soon, but is only slight during the NE monsoon.
The most pleasant weather is in July and August,
when the temperature is cooler and humidity low.
Whether leaving from Mayotte (IS44A) or Grand
Comoro (IS44B), boats bound for Kenya can sail a
direct offshore route. From WP441, in the approach-
es to Dzaoudzi, on Mayotte, a course can be set for
WP IS442, in the approaches to Mombasa.
Mombasa Port Control should be contacted on
VHF channels 12or16. Boats leaving from Moroni,
on Grand Comoro, can take their departure from
1545 Comoros to Seychelles
Because the area around the Comoros is subject to
tropical storms, this passage should not be under-
taken during the cyclone season. From May to
October winds along this route are mostly SSE or
SE and there is also a favourable current. There are
1540 ROUTES IN THE WESTERN INDIAN OCEAN
WP 15443 and also set a course for WP IS442.
The above offshore routes pass outside Tanzanian
waters. The alternative is to take an inshore route
inside the reefs that front the Tanzanian coast. If the
intention is to cruise most of the Tanzanian coast,
clearance formalities should be completed in' the
southern port of Mtwara (1015'S, 40·12'E). Other
Tanzanian ports of entry are the capital Dar es
Salaam (6"49'S, 39·19'E), Zanzibar (6 ·1o·s, 39 ·n 'E),
and Tanga (5.04'S, 39•06'E). The island of Pemba is
closed to visitors on security grounds and as there
are several sensitive areas in Tanzania skippers are
advised to check the situation with the authorities
in Dar es Salaam to avoid trouble with local officials.
several island groups north of Madagascar that can
be visited en route to the Seychelles, such as Iles
Glorieuses or Providence Island, and all of them
have protected anc;horages.
The direct route from Mayotte passes west of Iles
417
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
Glorieuses. From WP IS451, in the approaches to
Dzaoudzi, a course can be set to pass through two
intermediate waypoints, 15452and15453. The route
continues north of Alphonse Islands to WP IS454,
off Mahe' s South Point. There the course should be
altered to sail due north parallel to the coast to WP
IS455, one mile SE of Cerf Passage. In good visi-
bility this pass can be taken to reach Port Victoria,
1546 Comoros to South Africa
The direct route to Durban, or other South African
ports, leads through the Mozambique Channel,
where the north-setting Mozambique Current
can create very difficult sailing conditions.
Although the winds that blow between
Madagascar and the African mainland often come
from a favourable direction, strong NE winds blow-
ing against the current produce rough seas. This
passage should not be made before the middle of
September, when the chances of encountering con-
trary winds in the Mozambique Channel are
greater than later in the year. If necessary the pas-
sage south can be interrupted in Madagascar and
mainly for this reason the route should follow the
eastern side of the Mozambique Channel. South of
the Mozambique Channel similar directions apply
as for route IS52 which also describes weather con-
ditions in detail.
418
otherwise it may be necessary to carry on past St
Anne Island and enter the island's main port
through the normal shipping channel. Having con-
tacted the Port Authority on VHF channel 16, arriv-
ing yachts must anchor in the quarantine area north
of Victoria lighthouse where they will be boarded
for clearance.
From WP IS461, off the SE extremity of Mayotte,
the offshore route goes SW to WP IS462 off Cape
St Andre. From there the route runs parallel to the
west .coast of Madagascar passing between
Chesterfield and Juan de Nova islands all the way
to WP IS463, also passing to the east of Europa
Island. From WP 15463 the course should be altered
for WP IS464. Depending on weather conditions,
from that point one can close with the South
African coast, especially if intending to stop first
at Richards Bay, in which case landfall will be made
at WP IS465. If bound for Durban a course should
be set for WP 15466, in the approaches to Durban.
Durban Harbour Radio can be contacted before
entering the port, but this is not compulsory. Yachts
should proceed to the international jetty before for-
malities are completed ashore.
 ISSO ROUTES FROM THE MASCARENE ISLANDS

1550 ROUTES FROM THE

-MASCARENE ISLANDS
IS51 Mauritius to Reunion 419
IS52 Mauritius to South Africa 420
IS53 Reunion to South Africa 421
1554 Mauritius to Seychelles 422
1555 Mauritius to Comoros 423
1556 Mauritius to Madagascar 424
Mauritius has always been a popular stopover from
60°E
where to prepare for the long and difficult leg to SEYCHELLES
South Africa. This pa~sage can be a rough trip and , a •
there are few other areas in the world that have '
such a bad reputation among cruising boats as the
southwestern part of the Indian Ocean. The strong
south flowing Agulhas Current can create extreme-
ly rough conditions when hit by a SW gale, simi-
lar to conditions encountered off Cape Hatteras
when the Gulf Stream is hit by a violent northerly
wind. Several boats have got themselves into seri-
ous trouble on this passage, being knocked down
or rolled over and dismasted, either between
Mauritius and Durban or on the next leg to Cape
Town.
Boats heading north from Mauritius sail into a
much more benign region where the weather is
mostly fine. Although the entire area is prone to
60'E
tropical cyclones, the really dangerous period is
December to April. From April to November the SE ISSO Routes fmm the Mascarene Islands
trades blow almost continuously, usually fresh-
ening by mid-morning and getting lighter by strongest in June, July, and August. In the cyclone
mid-afternoon. The wind often dies away at night season, which is the most inclement time of year,
under the influence of the land, and if it does not SE winds are still the most common wind, but they
go calm at night, it will normally blow hard the fol- are more moderate in strength and are subject to
lowing morning. The SE trade winds are at their interruptions by winds from W or NW, or by calms.

1551 Mauritius to Reunion

419
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
This short passage between the largest two of the
Mascarene Islands can be made at any time outside
the cyclone season. Most boats stop at the French
overseas territory of Reunion on their way to South
Africa in October or early November. Many of
those who stop in Reunion do so to stock up with
French goods and to obtain a South African visa,
as there is a South African Consulate in the capi-
tal St Denis. Although such visas are not compul-
sory for sailors who do not leave their boats while
1552 Mauritius to South Africa
The best time to leave Mauritius is early in
November when the frequency of spring gales
around latitude 30 "S is getting less and the
chances of an early cyclone are remote. The rec-
ommended procedure is to try and keep about 150
miles off the southern tip of Madagascar as the
weather in the vicinity of this island is often unset-
tled. Sailing at this distance from land it is also pos-
sible to heave-to if a front arrives with contrary
winds. This course also avoids a reputed freak
wave area on the extended continental shelf off
Madagascar. Yet another reason why it is recom-
mended to stay at least 150 miles south of
Madagascar is because the South Equatorial
Current splits here, half of it merging with the
south flowing Agulhas Current, the other half flow-
ing north into the Mozambique Channel. By clos-
ing too early with the African coast several boats
have been pushed north by the northern branch of
the current, while hoping for a southerly boost
420
in South Africa, they are recommended for those
who intend to travel inland.
From WP 15511, off Port Louis, a direct route
passing north of Reunion leads to WP IS512 in the
approaches to Pointe des Ga lets. Entry formalities
for Reunion are completed at Pointe des Galets. The
Port Captain should be contacted on VHF channel
16 before proceeding to the fishermen's dock. The
other port of entry is Saint Pierre (21 '20'S,55 '29'E).
from the Agulhas Current. The winds up to this
point can be expected to be favourable, a lthough
not necessarily trade wind conditions as encoun-
tered earlier on.
The weather of the entire area between
Madagascar and the Cape of Good Hope is domi-
nated by the frontal systems which are created by
Antarctic lows moving eastward. The approach of
a cold front is usually heralded by a gradual change
in the appearance of the sky, with cirrus clouds
marching in from the west. These are replaced by
dense banks of cumulus, while the wind backs
slowly from E to NW, freshening all the time. After
a brief interlude the gale arrives from the SW, its
severity and duration depending on the nature and
extent of the front. During the passing of a front,
when the wind shifts suddenly from E or NE to SW,
conditions in the Agulhas Current can become haz-
ardous, especially around the 100 fathom line. In
such a situation it is best to head immediately for

the coast as the waves are smaller in the shallow-
er water near the coast. Alternatively one should
try and keep well offshore in deeper water and only
approach the coast when dose to the destination.
Although it is difficult to predict the kind of
weather to expect when closing with the South
African coast, one should keep an eye on the
barometer. A local method of forecasting the
approach of a SW buster is to watch the barome-
ter. As it starts falling the winds will probably be
NE. Once the barometer stops falling, the wind
becomes light and then ceases altogether. The
moment the barometer starts rising, one has
between .half an hour and one hour before the
arrival of the SW gale, which may be enough warn-
ing to leave quickly the 100 fathom line.
Most boats have encountered very mixed weath-
er on this route, with winds blowing at anything
from 0 to 50 knots. However, very few are spared
the SW gales that occur south of Madagascar and
which succeed each other at two to three day inter-
vals. After the area south of Madagascar has been
passed a new course should be set to a point 200
miles ENE of Durban. Depending on wind and
weather a direct course can be steered from there to
Durban. A common mistake is to allow too much for
leeway, trying to make landfall north of Durban,
expecting to be taken south by the current.
However, should a SW gale arrive while close to the
coast, one would be pushed even further north and
in that case the alternative is to seek shelter in
Richards Bay. This port is also recommended if land-
fall is made too far north of Durban. The subsequent
90 mile leg from Richards Bay to Durban can be
made later with a favourable .weather forecast.
As the main consideration is to avoid crossing
the Agulhas Current when the winds are from SW,
up to date weather reports are essential. Useful
weather reports are broadcast at 1303 GMT on
17655, 4376, 8740.8 kHz, and VHF channel 26.
1853 Reunion to South Africa
1550 ROUTES FROM THE MASCARENE ISLANDS
These are reports from the various lighthouses
along the South African coast and so give details
of wind strength and direction, as well as baro-
metric pressure, going from south to north. One can
therefore assess if a low system is corning up the
coast and take appropriate action.
Although it has been suggested that boats
bound for South Africa should sail directly to Port
Elizabeth in order to avoid the worst of the Agulhas
Current, rather than stop at Richards Bay or
Durban, experienced local sailors strongly advise
against such a course of action. The Agulhas
Current reaches its maximum width and strength
dose to the latitude of Port Elizabeth making this
the most dangerous area during bad weather.
Furthermore, the chances of encountering the cen-
tre of the lows which are moving parallel with the
coast are much greater in these latitudes than ifthe
coast is approached north of Richards Bay, where
the Agulhas Current is also narrower. It is therefore
better to make landfall in about latitude 28 ·s and
continue south only with a favourable weather
forecast.
From WP IS521, off Port Louis, the recommended
route to avoid the dangerous area south of
Madagascar passes east of Reunion through WP
IS522. From there a course can be set for WP lS523
and thence for WP 15524. Depending on the port of
destination as well as weather conditions, the
course can then be altered to dose with the coast.
A convenient port of entry is Richards Bay, where
a boat may be sent out to guide a yacht into the
port. Boats bound for Richards Bay should make
landfall at WP IS525. Those wishing to proceed
directly to Durban should set course for WP lS526,
in the approaches to Durban. Durban Harbour
Radio can be contacted before entering the port, but
this is not compulsory. Yachts are normally direct-
ed to the international jetty and formalities· are
completed ashore.
421
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
Similar directions apply as for route IS52 from
Mauritius. Several of those who have made this
passage described it as the toughest leg of their
entire voyage. It is therefore essential to prepare the
boat thoroughly for this passage.
The small port of St Pierre, on the SW coast of
Reunion, is a convenient point of departure.
1554 Mauritius to Seychelles
The SE trade winds provide fair winds on this route
from May to October, although the weather tends
to be occasionally squally. Cyclones affect the area
around Mauritius from the middle of November
until the end of April or even beginning of May,
during which time it is best to avoid being in this
area. As the route passes fairly close to the
Cargados Carajos Reefs, some boats take the oppor-
tunity to stop at one of these small islands. They
belong to Mauritius and permission to stop there
should be obtained from the Fisheries Department
of Mau ritius before leaving Port Louis.
A direct course can be sailed all the way from
Mauritius to Mahe, the main island of the
422
From WP IS531, outside St Pierre, an · initial
course can be set for WP IS532, so as to keep well
outside the dangerous area south of Madagascar as
described in the previous route. From WP IS532,
the same directions apply as those described for
route IS52.
Seychelles. Starting off from WP 15541, in the
approaches to Port Louis, a course can be set first
for WP IS542 so as to sail at least 20 miles west of
Agalega Island and surrounding dangers. The
route then passes through WP IS543 and continues
towards Mahe passing close to the west of Coetivy
Island, which should be approached with care as
it has been reported to lie some 3 miles further west
than its charted position. Landfall should be made
L
at WP IS544, off Mahe's South Point. The course
should be altered there to sail due north parallel to
the coast to WP IS545, one mile SE of Cerf
1
Passage. In good visibility this pass can be used to
reach Port Victoria, otherwise it may be necessary .1

to carry on past St Anne Island and enter the
island's main port through the beaconed shipping
channel. Having contacted the Port Authority on
1555 Mauritius to Comoros
During the SE trade wind season, from May to
October, this is a downwind run to the northern tip
of Madagascar. The favourable winds should con-
tinue all the way to the Comoros, the group of small
islands spread out between Madagascar and the
African coast. Mayotte belongs geographically to
the Comoros, but as it is a French territory it is sep-
arate from the independent Comoros.
From WP 15551, off Port Louis, a direct route
leads to WP 15552, east of Cap d' Ambre, the north-
ern extremity of Madagascar. As the route passes
very close to Tromelin Island, a tiny French pos-
session lying halfway between Mauritius and the
northern tip of Madagascar, the passage can be
interrupted there. Having passed Cap d' Ambre at
a reasonable distance to avoid the rough seas in its
vicinity, the course can be altered for either
Mayotte or one of the islands in the Comoros. The
route to Mayotte (IS55A) passes close by the Geyser
Bank, which should be avoided. From WP 15553,
1550 ROUTES FROM THE MASCARENE ISLANDS
VHF channel 16, arriving yachts must anchor in the
quarantine area north of Victoria lighthouse
where they will be boarded for clearance.
north of Cap d' Ambre, the course should be altered
for WP 15554, in the approaches to Dzaoudzi, the
official port of entry into Mayotte. The Port
Captain should be contacted on VHF channel 16 for
instructions before the perimeter reef is entered.
Boats bound for the Comoros (route IS55B) may
stop at Iles Glorieuses, two small islands sur-
rounded by a reef. From there, or if a stop in the
Glorieuses is not intended, from WP 15553, north
of Cap d' Ambre, a direct course can be sailed to the
nearest of the Comoros, which is Anjouan. The
landfall point for that island is IS555roff its north
point. From there the course is altered to reach the
port of Mutsamudu. Because the prevailing winds
are from the south, boats bound for Grand
Comoro should approach that island from the SE,
rather than the north. To do this, from WP !5553 a
course sh~ld be set for WP 15556, off Grand
?f
Comoro's point. From there, the south and west
coasts of the' island are followed to Moroni.
423
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEA N
IS56 Mauritius to Madagascar
More cruising boats are visiting this large island off
the coast of Africa which receives the full force of
the SE trade winds blowing across the Indian
Ocean. The strongest SE winds are in July, August,
and September. Madagascar is under the influence
of these winds all year, a!tpough the souther.n limit
of the SE trade winds moves up the coast from
August to November. During this period variable
winds are experienced in the southern half of the
island, although most winds are from an easterly
or northeasterly d irection. Winds from these
directions can blow quite strongly. In March, when
the ITCZ is further south, the northern tip of the
island loses the SE winds to NE and NW winds.
Madagascar lies within the cyclone belt, although
cyclones are not as frequent as in the Mauritiqs
1860 ROUTES FROM AFRICA
1861 East Africa to Seychelles
1862 Durban to Mauritius
1863 Durban to Cape Town
1864 Cape Town to Western Australia
The gradual easing of restrictions in some African
countries has resulted in an increase in the num-
ber of cruising boats visiting various countries in
East Africa, although the majority continue to limit
their cruising to the offlying islands. Some boats
reach East Africa by sailing south through the Red
Sea and along the African coast during the NE
monsoon. Others reach the area by making a detour
via the islands of the South Indian Ocean before
continuing towards the Red Sea. The best weath-
er conditions for boats northbound from East
Africa are encountered during the SW monsoon,
424
area. The South Equatorial Current splits at the cen-
tre of the island and runs north and south along the
east coast. The current along the west coast is most-
ly south-setting.
As better sailing conditions will be encountered
by sailing from Mauritius around the northern tip
of Madagascar, directions as far as Cap d' Ambre
are similar to those given for route !SSS. Rather
than sail a direct course to Cap d' Ambre, better
conditions will be found if the northern tip of
Madagascar is approached from the east. Therefore
an initial course should be sailed for WP ISS62 from
where the route continues west along the same lat-
itude to WP ISS63 before altering course for the NW
coast of the island. The nearest port of entry is at
Antseranana.
425
426
427
428
particularly in September when the winds are less
boisterous than at the height of the season,
between June and August. The islands of the South
Indian Ocean are occasionally visited by boats com-
ing from South Africa, a tough trip against the pre-
vailing winds and current. No less tough is the
passage to Australia in the Roaring Forties, in an
area of strong westerly winds which at least blow
from a favourable direction.
Along the coast of East Africa, the SE trade winds
blow steadily from April to October and rarely
exceed 20 knots. The wide band of northbound cur-
 IS60 ROUTES FROM AFR ICA

60°E ao·e
IS61 SEYCHELLES
'---'9~4~5-- ·-:.
·:~CHAGOS

MADAGASCAR
cocos··
KEELING

"> "" MAURITIUS

REUNION

IS62
1700
\664
4735
40'$
40'E 60'E 80' E 100'E

IS60 Routes fromAfrica

rent runs close to the shore and can be augmented
by these SE winds so as to reach 4 knots, which
makes it difficult if not impossible to sail south dur·
ing the wrong season. For this reason, voyages
along the East African coast should start at the most
southerly point and follow the coast in a norther-
ly direction. During the NE monsoon, when
winds from the NE and E prevail, this current is
slacker. Along the Tanzanian coast it is possible to
take an inshore route which stays inside the reefs
and islands. East Africa is not affected by the trop-
ical cyclones that occur further south and east.
Weather conditions around South Africa are
described on page 420.

1561 East Africa to Seychelles

The NE monsoon makes itself felt along this route
between January and March, when conditions for
an eastbound passage are favourable, even if the
winds·are often light. Between December and April
the current along this route is also favourable.
Although this is the cyclone season in other parts
of the Squth Indian Ocean, cyclones very rarely
reach the latitude of .the Seychelles. Should a
cyclone threaten to come this way, with adequate
warning boats on passage from Africa could tum

425
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
north at the first sign of an approaching storm and
move quickly out of its way into an area not affect-
ed by tropical storms.
A direct route leads outside all dangers from the
Kenyan coast to Mahe, the main island in the
Seychelles. From WP IS611, in the approaches to
Mombasa, a direct course can be set for WP IS612,
10 miles north of North Island, the northernmost
of the Amirante Islands. At night or in poor visi-
bility the islands should be passed at a safe distance
as they are low and the light on North Island is
IS62 Durban to Mauritius
Few boats attempt to sail a rhumb line between
these two points because of the strong south-flow-
ing Agulhas current and the high probability of
encountering contrary winds. The recommended
tactic is to make easting with the help of the pre-
vailing westerly winds of higher latitudes. On leav-
ing Durban, from WP IS621 a SE route is taken so
that, depending on weather conditions, easting is
made between latitudes 30"S and 35"S. However,
one should be prepared to go even further south in
search of westerly winds, possibly as far as 40 "S.
Strong westerlies should be encountered in those
latitudes and also frequent squalls. Having sailed
at least 800 miles in a SE direction, a point will be
reached where the course can be altered for a more
426
reported to be sometimes out of action. The
course can then be altered for WP 1S613, north of
Mahe's North Point, in the approaches to Port
Victoria. This is entered through the main shipping
channel.
Boats leaving from a Tanzanian port, such as Dar
es Salaam, follow a similar route. From WP IS614,
in the approaches to Dar es Salaam,.<\ direct course
can be set for WP IS612. The rest of the route is sim-
ilar to the one described above.
direct route to Mauritius. The NE course will lead
first into an area of variable winds and calms. The
SE trade winds can sometimes be found as far
south as 30 'Sand, once found, they should ensure
a fast passage for the rest of the voyage. The best
month for this passage is May when the cyclone
season has come to an end in the South Indian
Ocean and the winter gales of higher latitudes are
only about to begin.
Mauritius will be approached from the south by
a route which will pass east of Reunion Island.
Landfall will be made at WP IS623, off Cape
Brabant, the SW extremity of Mauritius. From there
the course can be altered for WP IS624, in the
approaches to Port Louis.

IS63 Durban to Cape Town
The best time to make this passage along the South
African coast is between January and March, when
weather conditions can be expected to be the most
benign. Few people attempt to make this passage
in one go without seeking shelter in one of the few
good ports en route. In fact the lack of sheltered
anchorages is only one of three factors that make
sailing along this section particularly difficult, the
other two being the Agulhas Current and the
unpredictable weather pattern. The Agulhas
Current runs in a SW direction following the 100
fathom (200 metres) contour of the continental shelf
and can attain up to 6 knots in places. The weath-
er around the southern extremity of the African
continent is greatly influenced by pressure systems
moving NE from the Southern Ocean. As men-
tioned in route IS52, a SW gale combined with the
strong south-flowing current can create giant
waves up to 60 ft in height and even higher.
It has been established from research carried out
into the formation of these freak waves that in all
cases the dominant waves came from the SW. This
always appears to coincide with a specific weath-
er pattern, when areas of low pressure move along
the coast in a NE direction. It is not uncommon dur-
ing such conditions for the wind to suddenly
change from a near NE gale to a full SW gale, the
wind reinforcing the existing wave pattern which
acts against the Agulhas Current. Usually the larg-
est waves occur between the edge of the continental
shelf and an area 20 miles to seaward and this is the
reason why mariners are advised to move inshore
inside the 100 fathom line as soon as there is a sign
of an approaching SW gale. Although coastal pas-
sages are outside the scope of this book, the area
under discu ssion has caused so many nightmares
to sm all boat voyagers that the Durban to Cape
Town route has been considered in sections.
Durban to East London (250 m)
As there is absolutely no safe shelter along this
stretch of coast, it is essential to leave Durban with
1560 ROUTES FROM AFRICA
a good forecast. It is recommended to leave
Durban at the end of a SW gale when the barom-
eter has topped out around 1020 millibars. On leav-
ing Durban one should head straight for the 100
fathom line to take full advantage of the strong
south-setting current. Should the weather deteri-
orate unexpectedly, one must close with the shore
immediately so as to avoid the worst of the waves.
East London to Port Elizabeth (120 m)
The same rules for leaving apply as for the run from
Durban south with the proviso that if the weather
is still favourable when level with East London and
the barometer is not falling dramatically, it is bet-
ter to continue to Port Elizabeth rather than stop at
East London. In case of a sudden deterioration of the
weather, the same kind of avoiding action should
be taken as described earlier. It must be stressed that
the Agulhas Current is very strong between these
two ports and also that there are inshore setting cur-
rents into some of the bays en route.
Port Elizabeth to Mossel Bay (170 m)
This section presents less problems than the pre-
vious ones as there are several places en route
where one can shelter from a gale. One of the first
of these ports is Knysna, although the entrance is
quite difficult because of the strong tidal currents
and can become hazardous during a SW gale when
heavy swells break across the entrance. Shelter can
also be found in Mossel Bay, near Cape Seal in
Plettenberg Bay, and close to Cape St Francis, where
one should beware of uncharted reefs.
Mossel Bay to Cape Town (195 m)
There are several places where one can anchor safe-
ly during unfavourable weather and on no account
should Cape Agulhas be rounded in bad weather.
There are onshore setting currents near all h ead-
lands on this route, which are also fronted by reefs,
making navigation very difficult, especially in poor
visibility.
427
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OC EAN
IS64 Cape Town to Western Australia
As most of this passage will be made in the Roaring
Forties, or even higher latitudes, it is recommended
to sail in the southern summer when the frequen-
cy of'gales is lowest, the weather warmer and there
is little risk of encountering icebergs. Although the
recommended time coincides with the season of
tropical storms, these very rarely reach high lati-
tudes and the only area where they might be
encountered is close to Western Australia.
On leaving Cape Town, from WP IS641, a SSE
course can be set for WP IS642 to avoid the area of
the Agulhas Bank, which has a high frequency of
gales and also a contrary current. Even if the course
made good is SSW because of SE winds, the lost
ground can be made up later when the area of west-
erly winds has been reached. In October and
November the northern limit of icebergs extends
to latitude 39 'S in the area comprised between lon-
gitudes 20' and 30°E, so the course should turn east
before this area is reached.
428
For vessels going to Western Australia the route
runs between latitudes 39'5 and 40'S, where the
proportion of westerly winds is relatively high dur-
ing the summer months and the weather consid-
erably warmer than if one went south to about
latitude 50 'S, where the predominance of wester-
ly winds, and gales, is indeed higher. It must be
stressed that a reluctance to go far enough south in
search of westerly winds and staying around lat-
itude 35 'S usually means a higher proportion of SE
winds, and therefore a much slower passage. The
course should be altered for Fremantle, or any other
West Australian destination, only after meridian
lOO'E has been crossed. Taking as a point of refer-
ence WP IS644, boats bound for Freman tie can set
a course from that point for WP IS645, NW of
Garden Island in the approaches to Fremantle. The
continuation of the route towards Bass Strait is
described in route IS17 (page 405).
 19
WINDS AND CURRENTS
IN THE RED SEA
Winds
The distinctive long shape of the Red Sea, bordered
by low arid coasts with high mountains rising some
twenty miles inland, dictates in some measure the
direction of winds, which tend to blow parallel to
these coasts, either from a NW or SE direction.
These winds differ significantly i!l the southern and
northern areas of the Red Sea, and in the south
show a seasonal variation due to the movem~nt of
the convergence' zone between the wind systems of
the northern and southern hemispheres.
Although the Red Sea is well to the north of the
equator, the ITCZ moves into this area to reach its
farthest position north in July, around 12 "N. At this
time of year the ITCZ marks the boundary
between the SW monsoon of the Indian Ocean and
the prevailing NW winds of the northern Red Sea.
During these summer months NW winds blow
down the entire length of the Red Sea merging into
the SW monsoon in the Gulf of Aden.
In winter the ITCZ.lies well to the south of this
region, but there is another unrelated convergence
zone which lies around 18 "N from October to May
.and marks the boundary between the SE winds in
the southern part of the Red Sea and the NW winds
of the northern section. This convergence zone is
usually marked by cloudy skies in contrast to the
ubiquitous sunshine prevailing in the region as a
whole. This convergeI\ce zone is associated with
rain and drizzle.
SE winds predominate from October to January
in all areas south of the convergence zone. From
January to May the SE winds may not penetrate
quite as far as the zone jtself, but still predominate
in the most southerly areas and in the Strait of Bab
el Mandeb. These winds are strongest from
November to February, averaging around 20
knots, but gale force winds of 30 knots and over
occur fairly frequently. September and May are
transitional months witl) lighter winds. In the Str?1it
of Bab el Mandeb, a funnelling effect occurs which
increases the wind speed at all times of the year, but
especially in the winter months November to
March, when it is frequently 25 knots or more.
In the northern part of the Red Sea from around
20 'N, winds from the N to NW predominate in all
months of the year, being stronger in winter than
in summer. However, in the most northerly part,
the Gulf of Suez, winds are more frequently over
20 knots from April to October with the highest fre-
quency of gale force winds during this time. The
Gulf of Suez is the only part of the Red Sea to be
affected by depressions moving east across the
Mediterranean.
Although the Red Sea winds are on average light
to moderate, periods of complete calm do occµr,
sometimes for several days at a time. No tropical
storms have been recorded in any part of the Red
Sea. There are, however, two strong winds occur-
ing in this region. The haboob is a short squall of
over 35 knots blowing off the coast of Sudan
between S and W, raising lots of sand and dust.
Haboobs occur particularly in the Port Sii.dan area
and are most common between July and
September. The other wind is the khamsin, a strong
dry S to SE wind, which blows off the land in Egypt
and causes sandstorms. It occurs most commonly
between February and May.
All of these winds, which bring sand and dust,
reduce visibility considerably, often to less than 100
feet, especially near the coast. On the other hanq,
due to the special refraction conditions prevailing
in the Red Sea, land and lights are often visible for
much greater distances than normal, up to 100
miles away. This effect can also affect the horizon,
429
WINDS AND CURRENTS IN THE RED SEA

raising or lowering it, which can produce errors in
astronavigational observations, up to 20' error in
longitude and 10' error in latitude. This phenom-
enon can affect observations taken before and after
noon in different ways and can produce the impres-
sion of an apparent cross-current. It is thought that
refraction is less at twilight and in the early morn-
ing, so therefore the taking of star sights has been
recommended in this region. A brilliant lumines-
cence sometimes occurs in the Red Sea making the
water appear shallower. With the presence of unlit
reefs extending far offshore in several places, these
conditions may explain why so many yachts came
to grief in this region in the past. Satellite naviga-
tion has improved safety considerably, but navi-
gation should still be treated with due caution as
most charts do not agree with satellite observations
and the positions of most dangers are therefore
approximate.
The Red Sea area is a hot arid region with a low
rainfall. The average temperature is very high,
around 30"C, but often reaches over 40•c in the day
and even temperatures exceeding so·c are not
uncommon. Temperatures are lowest in winter in
the more northerly part, dropping to 18 "C in the
Gulf of Suez on a winter night. This contrasts with
the southern areas of the Red Sea, where in August
the temperature is over 40°C by day and does not
lead to heat exhaustion in unclimatised people.
Care must be exercised in this area, especially on
metal yachts, because the temperature of a steel
deck can easily rise to a blistering 70 'C.
Currents
The overall direction of the currents in the Red Sea
is influenced by the monsoons in the,Indian Ocean.
From November until April, while the NE mon-
soon is blowing, water is pushed into the Red Sea
and there is a predominantly N to NW setting cur-
rent along the axis of the Red Sea. From May until
October, when the SW monsoon prevails over the
Indian Ocean, water is drawn out of the Red Sea
and a S to SE setting current prevails. Due to the
narrowness and shape of the Red Sea, there is a
great variability in the currents and many lateral
currents run in and out from the main stream, par-
ticularly near islands and reefs. These cross-cur-
rents occur in all months and are very variable.
They are not as strong as was first believed, because f
many apparent cross-currents were found to be due
to errors in astronavigation produced by the refrac-
tion effect on the horizon. The strongest current is
! I
experienced in the Strait of Bab el Mandeb, reach-
ing 2 knots in the NE monsoon season. In the tran-
I
sitional months between monsoons, April and May,
J I

drop below 32 ·c even at night, which can easily or October, there is little or no current.
i
l

i
T
T
J
i
i
I
r

t
I
I
I
t
J.
~
I

-1
430
!\
I
i
 20
ROUTES IN THE
RED SEA
n spite of its many attractions, good anchorages,
ISeaexcellent fishing, and magnificent diving, the Red
has just as many disadvantages from the cruis-
ing point of view and therefore most people try and
pass through it as quickly as possible. In most cases
the problems are of a political nature and countries
such as Saudi Arabia and Yemen do not encourage
yachts to visit them, while Sudan and Jordan only
tolerate them. The reception in Egypt depends
entirely on the current situation, which can change
from day to day, although the transit of the Suez
Canal itself is normally dealt with efficiently.
An area worth exploring by those with time on
their hands is the Gulf of Aquaba. Three of the four
countries bordering this narrow stretch of water,
·Egypt, Jordan, and Israel, have ports of entry at
Sharrn el Sheik (27"5l'N, 34 ·17'E), Aquaba (29"3l'N,
35 ·oo'E), and Eilat (29'33'N, 34 '57'E). The notable
exception is Sauo·FAi'.iioi1t, which IPOSitively<dis..
r,<;om:_anges.wi~t~i,Y::Yacht;l'not justTii"th'e ·G;ilf ~f
Aquaba,butinywhere o~-ltS coasts. Cruising boats
0
that have strayed into Saudi waters in the past have
been turned firmly away. So while this situation
continues Saudi ports should be avoided.
A significant change has occurred in Eritrea,
where the coming of peace after the prolonged war
with Ethiopia has made it again possible to
include this area into one's cruising plans. For all
the above reasons, the political.sHuation in the bor-
dering countries should be followed carefully
before arriving in.the Red Sea to know if there are
any areas which should be avoided. As the
Middle East is one of the most volatile regions of
the world, the current situation should be moni-
tored continuously by listening regularly to the
international news on a reputable station such as
the BBC World Service.
For those who may be put off by too much paper-
work and dealings with officials, the drastic alter-
native is to undertake a nonstop passage up or
down the middle of the Red Sea. Unfortunately
su ch a solution may be just as unattractive
because of the large amount of shipping and often
unfavourable wind. Because of all these factors,
most sailing boats that pass through the Red Sea
compromise by alternating offshore legs with
coastal cruising in daily hops. The method has
much to commend it as it is less trying for the crew
than a nonstop passage and is also safer, because
many of the numerous navigational hazards can be
avoided in this way. The average time in w hich the
entire length of the Red Sea can be navigated in this
manner is between three and four weeks.
Because coastal cruising is outside the scope of
this book, only the offshore passages are described
in detail. However, as some of the distances may
be covered in shorter stages all relevant charts
should be carried on board. Reefs and other dan-
gers are well marked, par ticularly on British
Admiralty charts, and navigation among the reefs
is not difficult in good Hght. Eyeball Qavigation is
not as difficult as it would appear, and provided the
time of arrival is planned carefully, so as to have
good light when entering a reef anchorage, navi-
gating among the coastal reefs should present no
great problem. When seeking an anchorage for the
night it is advisable not to leave this untii too late
in the afternoon because the lower sun casts a sheen
over the water obscuring dangers which otherwise
are easily seen.
431
 ROUTE S I N T H E RED SEA

RN NORTHBOUND ROUTES
RNl Bab el Mandeb to Port Sudan 433
RN2 Bab el Mandeb to Massawa 435
RN3 Bab el Mandeb to Hodaida 435
RN4 Port Sudan to Suez 436
....

I
I
I
I
I
Ii.
I

432

Regardless of the time of year, northbound boats
usually have to contend with contrary winds for at
least half their passage up the Red Sea. Therefore
it is difficult to recommend a preferred time of year,
especially as the Red Sea passage is usually a con-
tinuation of a voyage, the timing of which has been
decided by other factors. Most boats undertake
their !!_Orthbound voyage at-the end of winter,
between February and A~l, usually after having
crossed the North Indian Ocean during the NE
monsoon. Although NW winds prevail in the
northern half of the Red Sea throughout the year,
these tend to be lighter in spring than in winter,
making April one of the best months for the north-
bound voyage. Another advantage of a late March
or April passage is that the Mediterranean is
reached as the weather starts getting warmer and
the cruising season begins. Although the head-
winds of the Red Sea have become something of a
RNl Bab el Mandeb to Port Sudan
Very few boats choose to continue their voyage
from the Indian Ocean into the Red Sea without
stopping and the distinctly narrow choice is
between Aden and Djibouti. Because of the uncer-
tain situation in Aden, and the limited range of
RN NORTHBOUND ROUTES
legend among sailors, it must be pointed out that
winds do not always follow the axis of the sea and,
although forced to tack, boats can usually choose
a more favourable tack. Another observation
worth bearing in mind is that the wind tends to
shift with the sun, being more NNE in the morn-
ing and NW in the afternoon. During the EUROPA
Round the World Rally, in March 1992, all boats in
the Racing Division managed to sail the entire dis-
tance between Port Sudan and Suez, some of the
boats with good windward performance having to
tack very little by using the slant of the winds to
best advantage and covering the distance in
remarkably fast times. Even some of the boats in
the Cruising Division coped with the contrary
winds well and, as they were allowed to use their
engines, good times were recorded by motorsail-
ing at the most efficient angle whenever possible.
facilities there, Djibouti has become the more pop-
ular port of call. Djibouti has reasonable repair
facilities, good provisioning, and an active yacht
club. It also has regular flights to Paris, which
makes it a good port for crew changes.
433
ROUTES IN THE R ED SEA
The weather at the recommended time is usual-
ly favourable with a north-setting current in the
Strait of Bab el Mandeb and southerly winds pos-
sibly as far as the latitude of Port Sudan.
Boats leaving Djibouti for the Red Sea should
pass to the east of the Musha Islands and clear the
headland of Ras Bir by at least 10 miles before alter-
ing course for the Strait of Bab el Mandeb (Gates
of Sorrow). The Djibouti coast to the west of the
Musha Islands, as well the area facing Bab el
Mandeb, should not be approached too closely as
vessels have been molested by rebels during dis-
putes with the central Djibouti government. Boats
leaving from Aden have a clear run to the strait.
Whether coming from Djibouti or Aden, boats pass-
ing through the strait should do so west of Perim
Island. A traffic separation zone is in operation in
the strait and northbound vessels must keep to the
starboard side. Perim Island should not be passed
unnecessarily close because it is a restricted area.
For the same reason, Small Strait east of Perim
Island should only be used in an emergency. An
anchorage used occasionally by boats waiting for
either daylight or favourable winds to pass
through Bab el Mandeb is located in a small bay off
the Yemeni coast, NE of Bab el Mandeb in approx-
imate position 12 '43'N, 43'35'E. In principle, the
anchorage should only be used by boats that have
cleared into Yemen at Aden.
The 200 miles from Bab el Mandeb to Jabal at Tair
Island; which has a powerful light on it, can be
made either nonstop or in shorter stages by
anchoring at one of the two island groups en route.
If the winds are favourable it is advisable to make
as much northing as possible while they last, rather
than stop in the islands. Both Hanish and Zubair
Islands belong to Yemen, and although anchoring
by yachts in transit is usually tolerated, landing is
prohibited. In poor visibility or heavy weather it
is better to pass to the east of the Hanish Islands,
where dearer landmarks make it easier to avoid the
various dangers. On the other hand, Zubair
Islands should be passed on their west side
where there are no offlying dangers.
From WP RN10, west of Perim Island, in the
Strait of Bab el Mandeb, a course should be set for
WP Ri"\/11, to stay with the northbound traffic. From
that point it is easier to set a course which stays east
of the Hanish Islands by making for WP RN12, east
of Zuqar Island. The route passes through Abu Ail
Channel, between the rock of that name and Zuqar
Island, and heads for WP RN13, WSW of Zubair
434
Island . It is close to this point that the main route
is left by boats bound for either Massawa in Eritrea
(route RN2), or Hodaida in Yemen (route RN3).
From the Zubair Islands the trunk route contin-
ues in a NW direction past Jabal at Tair, whose
powerful light is an excellent reference while nego-
tiating a safe course between the vari.ous dangers
that front both shores of the Red Sea, the width of
the fairway being about 60 miles in.this area. From
WP RN14, west ofJabal atTair, a new course is set
for WP RN15 so as to avoid both the Farasan
Islands on the Saudi side and the Dahlach Bank off
the Eritrean coast. For those who do not wish to
take the inshore route to Port Sudan, the route con-
tinues to WP RN16, east of the light on Masamirit
Islet, which should be approached from the SE and
passed on its east side because of the dangerous
area south of it. The course can then be altered for
WP RN17, north of Hindi Gider light, so as to pass
outside the numerous reefs that litter this area.
There follows a final course alteration· for WP
RN18, south of Wingate Reef, at the entrance into
Port Sudan. Boats which do not intend to stop in
Port Sudan should continue on their offshore route
by setting a course from WP RNl 6, off Masamirit
Light, for WP RN43. The continuation of the route
to Suez is described in RN4.
Before entering Port Sudan, Port Sudan Radio
should be contacted on VHF channel 16 to advise
the boat's name, nationality, and ETA. Having
entered the port, the boat should proceed to the
yacht anchorage in the NW part of the harbour
(19'36.S'N, 37'13.4'E), and wait to be visited by
quarantine and security officials. Other formalities
will have to be completed in East Town, where the
Port Authority's offices are located .
For those who prefer to cover some of the dis-
tances south of Port Sudan in shorter stages by sail-
ing inside the reefs, there are two ways of
approaching the Sudanese coast. The first option
is to make for Khor Nawarat, an anchorage lying
very dose to the border between Eritrea and Sudan.
Because of the dangerous reefs and islets in the
Suakin Group and the reportedly unpredictable
currents, Khor Nawarat should be approached with
extreme caution and only if the vessel's position
has been confidently established. To reach the area,
the main route described above is left at WP RN15
from where a course should be set for WP RN19,
south of Dohrat Abid, at the start of the channel
passing between the various reefs in the Suakin
Group.

An alternative way to reach the Sudanese coast
is to pass close to the south of Masamirit Islet and
make for Trinkitat harbour by threading one's way
carefully through the various reefs. An inshore pas-
RN2 Bab el Mandeb to Massawa
Similar directions apply as for route RNI as far as
Zuqar Island. Having negotiated Abu Ail Channel,
on the NE side of Zuqar, a course is set first for WP
RN24 and then RN25, at the entrance into South
Massawa Channel. This channel, between the
African mainland and Dahlach Island, leads into
Massawa (Mits' iwa), Eritrea's main port.
As a result of the cessation of hostilities with
RN3 Bab el Mandeb to Hodaida
RN NORTHBOUND ROUTES
sage, reasonably well beaconed, leads both from
Khor Nawara t and Trinkitat to Port Sudan. An
interesting stop on this inshore route is the aban-
doned city ofSuakin.
Ethiopia and the declaration of independence by
Eritrea, the Eritrean authorities are encouraging
tourism and cruising boats are welcome to call there.
Northbound boats can regain the offshore route
either by using the same South Channel, or they can
take the longer North Massawa Channel, which
runs parallel to the coast in a northerly direction.
435
 ROUTES IN THE RED SEA
Boats bound for Hodaida should follow the same
directions as for route RNJ until level with Zuqar
Island. From WP RN32 a course can be sailed which
passes to the east of Abu Ail rock. To avoid the var-
ious dangers, from WP RN32 the course should be
altered for WP RN33, so that landfall is made off
Ras Kathib. This is the northern point of a long and
narrow peninsula that has created a perfectly shel-
RN4 Port Sudan to Suez
11
I
I
I
:I
North from Port Sudan, boats bound for Egypt and
I: the Suez Canal have the same choice as before and
I
can either stay inside the reefs or sail offshore. The
best area for day sailing starts immediately to the
north of Port Sudan, with several well protected
inlets among the reefs. Compared to the southern
half of the Red Sea, the north has fewer offshore
dangers and the direct route has a clear run all the
JI way to Daedalus Reef (24 '56'N, 35'52'E). The rec-
'. I ommended route runs roughly parallel to the axis
of the Red Sea, although it favours the Sudanese
/I I side in case the decision is taken to head for the
coast and seek temporary shelter in one of the
many inlets.
I
I 436
tered natural harbour in which the port of Hodaida
occupies the southern extremity. A 10 mile long
buoyed channel leads into Hodaida, whose Port
Control should be contacted on VHF channel 16 to
advise ETA, name of vessel, and other details
before permission is given to proceed into the port.
The Yemeni capital Sanaa is easily reached over-
land from Hodaida. •'
.•
Having left Port Sudan, from WP RN40, south of
Wingate Reef, an initial course is set to WP RN41,
east of Sanganeb Reef. The course is then altered
for WP RN42, east of Abington Reef, where the off-
shore route coming up from Masamirit Light is
joined. A useful landmark on this offshore route is
Gezirat Zabargad, a high rocky islet off Foul Bay,
an area which is best avoided even by those who
have been coastal sailing to this point. The route
passes east of Zabargad.
North of Foul Bay, longer offshore legs become
increasingly necessary as there are fewer safe
anchorages along the Egyptian coast. From WP
RN44, west of Daedalus Reef, the route continues

in a NW direction towards the Brothers, which are
passed on their east side. A safe all weather anchor-
age can be found at nearby Hurghada (27'13.S'N,
33 '50.7'E), where it is also possible to clear into
Egypt. From Hurghada the Gulf of Suez can be
reached via Tawila Channel, which avoids a
detour past Shaker Island and the Strait of Guba!.
From WP RN45, east of the Brothers, the offshore
route heads for the Strait ofGubal, which is entered
at WP RN46, east of Shaker Island. From WP RN47
the route runs down the middle of the Gulf of Suez
passing through an intermediate WP RN48, off Ras
Shukeir. Landfall is finally made at WP RN49, in
the approaches to Suez. Navigation through the
narrow Gulf of Suez can be daunting, dtie to the
numerous oil rigs, heavy shipping, and the usually
contrary wind. The problem is exacerbated by the
presence of many disused oil platforms, some of
which are not marked by lights. Traffic separation
lanes are in operation for the entire length of the
Gulf of Suez, with northbound traffic using the
right hand lane. Sailing boats, especiaHy if they
need to tack, or if motorsailing to windward, nor-
mally fare better by favouring the eastern side of
the narrow Gulf. It must also be stressed that the
waypoints listed for the Gulf of Suez are only
RS SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
RSl Suez to Port Su.d an
RS2 Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden
The best time for a southbound passage through
the Red Sea depends on just as many factors as a
northbound voyage, although weather condi-
tions are invariably better. The most pleasant time
to head south is probably during the sprin·g
months, from February to April, when the weath-
er is becoming warmer in the northern areas and
it is not too hot in the southern section. At this time
favourable winds can be expected to last at least as
far as the latitude of Port Sudan. From May
onwards winds from the NW should be carried the
entire length of the Red Sea. The timing of this pas-
sage usually depends on the destination after the
Red Sea, and the weather in the North Indian
Ocean must be taken into account. For an east-
RS SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
meant as guidelines.
The Suez Canal Authority should be contacted
on VHF channel 16 to give an ETA. If Suez Bay is
reached during the night it is recommended to
anchor either off the main channel or in the wait-
ing area in Port Ibrahim and wait for daylight
before passing through the heavy traffic to the Suez
Canal Yacht Club. As the yacht club is in the Suez
Canal area, yachts should not pr.oceeed there with-
out permission from the Canal Authority. If not
using the yacht club the recommended anchorage
for yachts intending to transit the Canal is just
inside the southern breakwater in Port Ibrahim.
The breakwater can be passed either west or east
and the anchorage is at its eastern end, close to the
entrance into the North Basin. A shipping agent or
his representative will arrive in his launch soon
after Suez Bay has been entered offering to make
arrangements for transiting the Suez Canal.
Agency fees are extremely competitive and skip-
pers are advised not to accept an offer before a fee
has been agreed. Agents normally deal with all for-
malities, both for.entry into Egypt and for transit-
ing the Canal. See also page 491 concerning the
transit through the Suez Canal.
438
440
bound passage across the North Indian Ocean the
SW monsoon, which blows from May to October,
ensures the most favourable winds, although these
may be too strong at the height of the monsoon in
July and August when a high proportion reach gale
force. For this reason, and also the unbearable heat,
the summer months in the Red Sea are best avoid-
ed. Therefore, if a southbound passage cannot be
undertaken towards the end of the NE monsoon,
the only alternative is to do it during the autumn
transitional period. However, due attention must
be paid to the risk of cyclones in the Arabian Sea,
as their highest frequency coincides with the same
transitional periods. See also routes IN33, IN34,
IT22, and IT23 (pages 379, 380, 390 and 393).
437
ROUTES IN THE RED SEA

RS Southbound routes

RSl Suez to Port Sudan

438

Because favourable winds are much more likely to
be encountered on southbound passages, most
boats cover as much as possible of the Red Sea in
long offshore legs and, in contrast to northbound
boats, coastal hopping is less common. Because
traffic separation lanes are in operation for the
entire length of the Gulf of Suez, the intermediate
waypoints listed above are only meant as a guide-
line. Sailing boats normally fare much better by
keeping away fro.m the traffic by favouring the east
side of the narrow Gulf. At the southern end of the
Gulf of Suez, several miles can be saved by sailing
through either Zeit or Tawila Channels which lead
to the anchorage at Hurghada. If an inshore pas-
sage is preferred south of Foul Bay, a convenient
place to go behind the reefs is at Ras Hadarba, close
to the border between Egypt and Sudan. The entire
distance from there to Port Sudan can be covered
mostly in sheltered waters where safe anchorages
are easily found every night.
Taking WP RS10, south of Suez Bay, as a point of
departure, the offshore route runs along the axis of
the Gulf of Suez as far as WP RSll, off Ras Shukeir.
This first section is the most difficult because of the
heavy traffic and also the oil platforms that are to
be found everywhere in the Gulf of Suez, many of
those no longer in use not being marked by lights.
Having reached WP RS12, at the northern entrance
into the Strait of Guba!, the course is altered for WP
RS SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
RS13, east of Shaker Island. From there a course is
set to pass east of the Brothers through WP RS14
and on to WP RS15, west of Daedalus Reef. The
route then crosses the mouth of Foul Bay where an
intermediate WP RS16 is used to pass at a safe dis-
tance west of Gezirat Zabargad, a high rocky islet.
From the Strait of Guba! to WP RS16 the route
favours the western shore where an anchorage can
be found in many sheltered bays or inlets.
Having passed Foul Bay, the offshore route heads
for WP RS17, east of Abington Reef. From this
point, boats bound for Port Sudan leave the off-
shore route and head in a SW direction. Boats con-
tinuing nonstop on an offshore route should alter
course for WP RS22, east of Masamirit Light (see
routeRS2).
To reach Port Sudan, from WP RS17, the course
is altered for WP RS18, east of Sanganeb Reef and
finally to WP RSl 9, south of Wingate Reef, at the
entrance into Port Sudan. Before entering the har-
bour, Port Sudan Radio should be contacted on
VHF channel 16 to advise the boat' s name, nation-
ality, and ETA. Having entered the port the boat
should proceed to the yacht anchorage in the NW
part of the harbour (19 '36.5'N, 37°13.4'E), and wait
to be visited by quarantine and security officials.
Other formalities will have to be completed in East
Town, where the Port Authority's offices are
located.
439
 I,
!
ROUTES IN THE R ED SEA

RS2 Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden

Boats leaving Port Sudan bound for Bab el
Mandeb and the Indian Ocean may take an
inshore route as far as either Trinkitat or Khor
'' Nawarat. From Trinkitat the open sea is reached via
a pass which leads due east through the reefs and
I· islets of the Suakin Group. From Khor Nawarat, all
I dangers of the Suakin.Group are left to port and a
safe course is set as soon as open water is reached.
[ Since the cessation of hostilities between Eritrea
and Ethiopia, and the subsequent independence
declaration by Eritrea, it is once again possible to
sail through the waters south of Sudan. Those inter-
ested in continuing on an inshore route should use
11 ! North Massawa Channel to reach the Eritrean port
'J
1
I'I
I
of Massawa and complete entry formalities in that
country. The open sea is then reached through the
I: South Channel, leading SE from Massawa between
the African coast and Dahlach Island.
If the winds are favourable on leaving Port
Sudan, the offshore route should be preferred. In
this case, from·wp RS20, outside Port Sudan, the
initial course should go to WP RS21, so as to pass
to NE of Hindi Gider light and the various dangers
to SW of it. The route then goes to WP RS22, east
of Masamirit light to join the offshore route down
the middle of the Red Sea. From this point the route
follows the axis of the Red Sea passing through WP
RS23, halfway between Dahlach Bank, on the
Eritrean side, and Farasan Islands, on the Saudi .
side. The route continues in a SE direction to pass
through WP RS24, west of Jabal at Tair, a conspic-
uous island with a powerful light, which provides
a useful point of reference. Two groups of islands
lying south of it, Zubair and Hanish Islands, offer

I 440
1::

shelter in heavy weather. Both island groups
should be approached with caution as there are
some offlying dangers. Zubair Islands are best
passed on their west side, while Jabal Zuqar and
the Hanish Islands should be passed to the east
paying careful attention to the various rocks in their
vicinity. . should alter course for WP RS290 so as to pass well
Boats intending to call at Hodaida, in Yemen,
should leave the offshore route at Jubair at Tair and
from WP RS24 set a course for WP RS293, at the
landfall buoy north of Ras Kathib. This is the north-
ern point of a long and narrow peninsula that has
created a perfectly sheltered natural harbour in
which the port of Hodaida occupies the southern
extremity. A 10 mile long buoyed channel leads into
Hodaida, whose Port Control should be contacted
on VHF channel 16 to advise ETA, name of vessel,
and other details before permission is given to pro-
ceed into the port. The Yemeni capital Sanaa is eas-
ily reached overland from Hodaida.
Those who do not wish to interrupt their voyage
should stay with the offshore route south of WP
RS24. From WP RS25, west of Zubair, a course is set
to pass through Abu Ail Channel, NE of Jabal
Zuqar, to WP RS26. From there the course is altered
to pass through WP RS27 and on to the northern
RS SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
approaches of the Strait of Bab el Mandeb. Because
of a traffic separation zone in the strait, southbound
boats should keep to the west side and make for
WP RS28. Having passed through Bab el Mandeb
into the Gulf of Aden, the course continues to WP
RS29. From that point boats bound for Djibouti
clear of Ras Bir, on the African side. Rebel forces
have molested vessels in this area in the past and
this is the reason why it is recommended to stay
well off this coast and pass east of the Musha
Islands. One more course alteration for WP RS291
is needed to pass east of the Musha Islands and
approach the port of Djibouti from the NE. The rec-
ommended yacht anchorage (11°36.S'N,43 °07.S'E)
is off the Djibouti Yacht Club whose facilities may
be used by visiting boats. The various authorities
are in the nearby commercial harbour and must be
visited to complete entry formalities. ·
From WP RS290 boats bound for Aden should
alter course for WP RS292, SW of the entrance into
the port of Aden. A marked channel leads into the
Inner Harbour, where yachts anchor off the cus-
toms dock. Boats are normally met on arrival by a
port control launch and directed to the anchorage.
441
 21
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
he Mediterranean climate is on the whole
T extremely pleasant, marked by long hot sum-
mers and mild winters. Most gales and rain occur
in winter months, few storms interrupting the long
summer. Local conditions vary considerably,
.I stronger winds and squalls often resulting from
local phenomena and not due to the overall weath-
I :, er pattern. Tropical storms do not affect this region.
' The Mediterranean can be divided into two
halves, Western and Eastern, corresponding to the
two deeper basins which are separated by a ridge,
running through Italy, Sicily, and Malta to the
African coast. In the summer the Western
Mediterranean comes under the influence of the
Atlantic high pressure area centred near the
Azores, while the Eastern Mediterranean is influ-
I ii enced by the low pressure area east of the
Mediterranean, which is· an extension of the
I'
·I Indian Ocean monsoon. As a rule weather systems
move across the Mediterranean from west to east
and this is particularly true of depressions in the
winter months. The commonest winds over the
entire area are from the northerly sector, more from
the NW in the western basin, N in the Aegean and
I' NE in the eastern part. Well chronicled down the
centuries are the various regional winds, which are
a notable feature of Mediterranean weather.
J: Close to the coast the weather is greatly affect-
! ed by the height of the land and other topograph-
ical features. Local conditions vary enormously,
any prevailing wind usually being lighter near the
coast, while land and sea breezes have a strong
effect. The land and sea breezes are particularly
marked in summer months and reach 20 to 30 knots
442
'
.•
in some places. The direction of the wind changes
not only with the time of day, but also with the ori-
entation of the coast. A reversal in the direction of
the wind usually occurs between early morning
and late afternoon. Local squalls are more frequent
where the coast is mountainous and the wind is fre-
quently accelerated down valleys or between
islands. These effects are particularly true for high
islands and should be borne in mind when
anchoring in the lee of such valleys, particular!y in
Greece in the meltemi season.
Mistral
'Magistralis' meaning 'masterful' was the name
originally given to the cold dry NW wind which
holds masterly sway . over the Western
Mediterranean in both frequency and strength.
Now corrupted to 'mistral' or 'maestral', these NW
winds are formed when cold air flowing down over
France is blocked by the heights of the Alps and is
diverted to pour into the Mediterranean via the
Rhone valley. The mistral blows strongly in the
Gulf of Lions and the Gulf of Genoa, while the
Rhone delta area and Marseille receive the full force
of the mistral on almost 100 days a year. On aver-
age 20 knots, the mistral is frequently stronger and
can reach 50-60 knots on occasion. The mistral
often reaches the Balearics and Sardinia and on
occasion can be felt as far as Malta and North
Africa. The French Riviera east of Marseille is shel-
tered by the mountains behind the coast and the
mistral is felt less there.
The mistral blows at intervals throughout the
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
year, although it is commonest in winter, normal-
ly lasting from three to six days and is typified by
clear skies. Along the Spanish coast this NW wind
is called the trarnontana, being strong, cold, and dry
with many local variations.
Vendavales
These are strong SW winds which blow between
North Africa and the Spanish coast, especially in
the late autumn and early spring. These winds,
which do not last long, can reach gale force and are
associated with depressions moving across Spain
and Southern France. The vendavales are associat-
ed with squalls and thunderstorms, but are less
strong near the African coast and the NE coast of
Spain. They are much stronger when funnelled
through the Strait of Gibraltar. Hitting the west
coast of Sardinia and the Gulf of Genoa, these
strong SW winds are called libeccio in Italian.
Sirocco
In general usage, this name is used to describe any
winds from the south bringing hot air off the con-
tinent of Africa. Due to depressions moving east
across the Sahara Desert, the sirocco blows off the
north coast of Africa very hot and dry, often laden
with sand and dust, thus reducing visibility. As
these winds pass across the sea, they pick up some
moisture, and so in Spain, Malta, Sicily, Sardinia,
and Southern Italy the sirocco arrives at a lower
temperature and with a higher humidity than off
the African coast. In those places it is a warm hazy
wind associated with a low layer of continuous
cloud. Rain falling through the dust carried by
these winds can sometimes be red or brown.
A similar wind blows off the Arabian peninsu-
la to affect Israel, Lebanon, Cyprus, Crete, and
other southern islands in the Eastern
Mediterranean, particularly in the transitional peri-
ods betwe~n seasons, from April to June,
September, to October. In Egypt the sirocco is called
·the khamsin, which means 50 in Arabic, because it
occurs most frequently in the 50 days following the
Coptic Easter. It usually blows at gale force for
about one day and is most common from February
to April. Later in May and June the khamsin is less
frequent but can last longer.
Levante
These NE winds blow near the Spanish coast,
reaching gale force in spring (February to May) and
autumn (October to December). In summer months
from June to September, the levante is shor ter and
has less strength. The levante is formed when a
depression is situated between the Balearics and
North Africa, usually when there is a high pressure
area over the European landmass to the north.
The levante is most common along the central
Spanish coast and can continue into the Strait of
Gibraltar, where it is funnelled to become easter-
ly and is known as levanter. The levante brings lower
temperatures and rain, which is often heavy near
the coast, while the long fetch produces heavy seas.
Gregale
These strong winds also from the NE are felt in the
Central Mediterranean, on the coasts of Sicily and
Malta and especially in the Ionian Sea. They flow
out of high pressure areas situated over the
Balkans and are common in the winter months,
especially in February. These winds usually blow
at gale force, are cold, and produce a heavy swell.
The NE coast of Malta is particularly vulnerable as
the main harbours are open to the NE. It was a gte-
gale that wrecked St Paul on the Maltese coast in the
first century AD.
Meltemi
This wind is more commonly known by its
Turkish name 'meltemi' than as the etesian wind,
w hich is taken from the Greek word meaning
'annual'. These regular winds blow steadily over
the eastern basin of the Mediterranean all summer,
commencing in May or early June and continuing
until September or even October. The meltemi is at
its strongest and steadiest in July and August. Even
when the meltemi is not blowing, or while it is
being established in the earlier months, it is rare to
get winds from any other direction during this
time. Periods of calm can often occur at the begin-
ning of the season. The meltemi has many simi-
larities with a monsoon and can be regarded as an
extension of the Indian monsoon caused by the low
pressure area east of the Mediterranean .
The meltemi blows from the north in the·central
Aegean, tending to be more NE in the northern
Aegean and NW in the southern areas, extending
across the whole eastern basin, although it peters
out before reaching the southern shores. The melte-
mi is a fresh wind on average 15-20 knots, and
associated w ith fine clear weather. Often it reach-
443
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
es up to 30 knots, especially in the afternoons and
occasionally it reaches 40 knots. It is less strong in
the most norther!y areas and strongest in the S and
SW Aegean. The rnelterni tends to decrease at night.
Western Mediterranean
The summers are fine with few storms. Gale force
winds do occur, but these are often generated by
local depressions over a limited area. Because of
this they are difficult to predict and give little warn-
ing of their onset, as an impending gale is rarely
preceded by a meaningful change in barometric
pressure. Strong winds sucli as ve11dnvnles, sirocco,
or levante are more common in the transitional
months of spring and autumn. The mistral can
blow in summer but is much less frequent than at
other times of the year. The commonest wind over
this area is from the NW, except in the most
southerly areas near the African coast, where winds
from the E and NE are more frequent. There can be
calm periods for several days at a time. There is lit-
tle rain over this area in summer, except for occa-
sional thunderstorms near some of the coasts.
In winter winds are much more variable and
gales more frequent. Depressions from the Atlantic
track in from the west, either across France or Spain
or through the Strait of Gibraltar. Also some local
depressions form in the Gulf o'f Lions or the Gulf
of Genoa and track to the sou th, bringing strong
winds and squally weather. The mistral gales are
more frequent in winter months and NW winds
predominate over this area. Vendnvnles and libeccio
blow especially in late autumn and early spring. In
spite of the increased frequency of gales in winter,
there are also some quiet periods. Although most
rain falls during winter as showers, temperatures
are mild and there are frequent sunny days.
Eastern Mediterranean
The summers are dominated by the seasonal winds
from the northern quarter, which blow strongly but
are associated with clear skies and fine weather.
Rainfall is scant and almost non-existent on the
southern shores. The climate of the eastern basin
is a little more continental than the western or cen-
tral areas, which means fewer fronts, less rain, and
a lower humidity. It is noted for long hot summers
and short winters. Most of the rain falls in winter.
In winter depressions track in an easterly direc-
tion either SE towards Cyprus or NE towards the
Black Sea. Although small in size, these depres-
444
sions can be very violent as they develop rapidly
and with little warning. Some violent storms in this
area are dangerous as they are local in character,
arriving quickly out of a clear sky. Alt.h ough winds
from the northerly sector are commonest in winter
too, winds from all directions do occur and there
are strong gale force winds particularly from the
south. Both S and N winds are lllOre prolonged
than E or W winds. November to February are the
worst months with cold dry N to NE gales and
warm moist SE to SW gales which bring dust.
When a depression passes there can be a change
from S to N within a few hours. At the transition-
al period between seasons, such as in April and
May, cairns can occur for several days.
Currents
The Mediterranean loses more water by evapora-
tion than it receives from rivers emptying into it,
but there is a general inflow of water from the
Atlantic Ocean at all times of the year. This east-set-
ting current is strongest through the Strait of
Gibraltar and along the North African coast, where
it averages around 2 knots. After passing through
the channel between Sicily and Tunisia it gradually
loses its strength as it flows eastward. There is a
weaker counterclockwise circulation in both of the
two basins of the Mediterranean joined by an east-
setting current in the Malta channel between the
two areas. In the western basin this current flows
north up the west coast of Italy. It turns west along
the south coast of France and continues south down
the Spanish coast. In the eastern basin, the east-set-
ting current turns north along the coast of Israel
and Lebanon, west along the Turkish coast, and
completes the circle along the northern coast of
Crete. A branch makes a counterclockwise circu-
lation of the Aegean Sea, being joined in its south-
ward movement by water flowing out of the Black
Sea and into the Mediterranean via the Bosporus
and Dardenelles. Another branch makes a coun-
terclockwise circula lion of the Adria tic.
. Excepting the steady current along the North
African coast, the actual currents are very variable
and are affected considerably both by the direction
and force of the wind and local conditions. For
example, w hen the meltemi is blowing, a S to SW
setting current predominates in the Central and
Western Aegean. The strongest currents are expe-
rienced in the Strait of Gibraltar, the Bosporus, and
Dardanelles. Other straits, such as the Strait of
Messina, are strongly affected by tidal currents.

22
ROUTES IN THE
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
ailing conditions in the Mediterranean have
S been reviled and ridiculed by modern sailors
more than in any other part of the world and the
most repeated saying is that 'in the Mediterranean
one either gets too much wind or none at all, and
what one gets is on the nose'. Fortunately this is not
always true and although the winds encountered
in this inland sea cannot be compared in constan-
cy to the trade winds of the Caribbean or Indian
Ocean, most offshore passages can be made under
sail. The Mediterranean has been plied for many
centuries by all kinds of wind driven craft and
some of the voyages of ancient time have become
legend. Being aware of the capricious nature of
Mediterranean winds, ships used to be provided
with a set of sturdy oars and although slaves have
gone out of fashion, diesel engines can replace them
perfectly well.
Because of its long maritime history, the weath-
er of the Mediterranean is well known and this sim-
plifies the task for those intending to do some
forward planning. As the sailing season stretches
over almost nine months of the year, from early
March to the end of November, a lot of ground can .
be covered if an early start is made. This is rec-
ommended especially for those planning to make
west to east passages as westerly winds are more
common during early spring and late autumn.
However, because weather patterns in the
Mediterranean are less clearly defined than in other
parts of the world, a 'best time' to make a partic-
ular passage is far less accurate than elsewhere.
With a few exceptions, the weather can rarely be
regarded as dangerous in the Mediterranean and
the most violent storms almost invariably occur in
winter, January and February being the worst
months.
The Mediterranean is crisscrossed by innumer-
-
able routes, far too many to be dealt with in this
book. Also, most of these routes involve a certain
amount of coastal cruising and so can hardly be
described as offshore routes. Finally, the multitudi?
of good harbours throughout the Mediterranean
coupled with the unparalleled richness and vari-
ety of places to visit ashore means that most peo-
ple prefer coastal cruising. In consequence, this
chapter deals primarily with the most frequented
offshore routes.
In the Mediterranean, perhaps more than any-
where else, forward planning is of crucial impor-
tance and as this book is aimed primarily at
offshore sailors the routes described and sugges-
tions m ade are meant for sailors who are not nor-
mally based in the Mediterranean and for whom
the Mediterranean is only part of a longer voyage.
There are two principal gateways into the
Mediterranean, Gibraltar being used mainly by
sailors arriving from Northern Europe and
America, while Port Said witnesses the arrival of
sailors who have reached the Mediterranean
through the Red Sea and Suez Canal. The latter
may be European sailors returning home at the
completion of a world voyage, or sailors from other
continents, from North America, Australia, New
Zealand, or the Far East, in the midst ofa circum-
navigation. Most of these sailors arrive in the
Mediterranean determined to see and do as much
as possible in the shortest time possible, which may
not be as easy as it first appears. The Mediterranean
has been described as the ' cradle of civilisation'
and, whether one agrees with that description or
not, there is certainly no other region of the world
which offers so much to see in such a concentrat-
ed area, from archaeological sites to historic
cities, beautiful islands and stunning scenery. So
the main danger is in trying to cover too mueh
445
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
ground in one season and ending up by seeing
much less than planned. Also, the Mediterranean
is not the small lake it appears and the distance
between Gibraltar and the Suez Canal is twice that
between Miami and the Panama Canal!
Because many sailors arrive in the Mediterranean
planning to spend only one season there the fol-
lowing suggestions are aimed primarily at them.
Those starting off from Gibraltar, especially if they
have had to cross the Atlantic to get there, are at a
certain disadvantage as the sailing season will be
well advanced by the time they arrive. For such late
starters it is important to get to the furthest point
as quickly as possible. As one can never be com-
pletely sure what kind of winds to expect, it is wise
to cover as many miles as possible early on so as
to have time in hand for the rest of the cruise. Such
a tactic is particularly important if one wishes to
cruise in the Eastern Mediterranean, in which case
one should attempt to sail with as few stops as pos-
sible to Northern Greece so as to arrive there before
the onset of the strong northerly winds of summer.
These winds will then ensure favourable sailing
conditions while exploring the delights of the
Aegean Sea, whether among the Greek islands or
on the Turkish mainland.
Gibraltar is an excellent port in which to prepare
for an eastbound passage and, although the current
is always favourable, it is worth waiting for a spell
of westerly winds before leaving. The Eastern
Mediterranean can be reached by either going
north or south of Sicily. If the destination is the
Ionian Sea, or parts of Greece which are easier
reached through the Corinth Canal, it is better to
sail north of Sicily and through the ~trait of
Messina. Otherwise, a southern route, which pos-
sibly calls at Malta, is to be favoured if the desti-
nation is in Crete, Cyprus, or Port Said. A logical
decision is to start a cruise in the northern part of
the Aegean in late spring or early summer, after
which the summer can be spent exploring the
Eastern Mediterranean. By August one should start
moving westward and, if neither Malta nor the
Balearics were visited on the outward voyage, they
can easily be included on the return route to
Gibraltar.
In the Eastern Mediterranean favourable norther-
ly winds are common throughout the summer, but
by early autumn the winds become more variable,
and prolonged calms are frequent, especially on
passages to Malta. Because westbound passages
have fewer chances of favourable winds than pas-
446
sages in the opposite direction, one should allow
more time for such passages and also be prepared
to motor through the unavoidable calms. A stop in
Malta is only recommended for boats coming from
Port Said, Cyprus, or Crete. Those coming from
mainland Turkey or the Greek islands would do
better to sail through the Strait of Messina and con-
tinue north of Sicily. /
Those planning to continue across the Atlantic
should attempt to be in Gibraltar not much later
than the end of September so as to have sufficient
time for the subsequent passage to the Canaries.
Those intending to sail to Northern Europe will
find that weather conditions in autumn are rarely
favourable and, rather than fight the elements, it
is probably wiser to leave the boat in the
Mediterranean for the coming winter. There are
indeed plenty of good ports and marinas where this
can be done at a competitive price. Similarly,
American sailors should seriously consider leav-
ing their boat in the Mediterranean between sea-
sons, sailing their boats across the Atlantic during
one summer, then finding a suitable place to leave
the boat for the coming winter. This then leaves
them free to return early the following season and
be poised to start cruising as early as April. They
then have nearly six months of Mediterranean
cruising before preparing for a return voyage via
the Canaries and Caribbean.
Sailors reaching the Mediterranean by way of the
Red Seit are in a much better position as they nor-
mally transit the Suez Canal in March or April, thus
arriving in the Eastern Mediterranean at the best
possible time. Having reached that area so early,
they can visit first Cyprus and Eastern Turkey, and
possibly Israel as well, before following the earli-
er suggestion and make for the Northern Aegean
by June. From there on, the same itinerary will be
followed as the one sailed by boats that have come
from the Atlantic.
With more time at one's disposal, and this nor-
mally means more than one year, unless one is able
to move very fast, other areas of the Mediterranean
can be explored, from the French Riviera to North
Africa, or the increasingly popular Black Sea, where
the gradual easing of restrictions in the former
Communist countries has opened new cruising
areas to those ambitious enough to reach them.
The Adriatic Sea
CRUISING GUIDES: Adriatic Pilot.

The war in former Yugoslavia put out of bounds
one of the most attractive cruising areas in Europe.
While hostilities appear to have spared most of the
offshore islands, it will be many years before this
coastline returns to normality. The small coastline
of Slovenia has been largely unaffected by the war
waged by its neighbours, while Croatia is making
determined efforts to attract cruising boats once
again to its attractive coastline. Foreign boats have
started trickling back but nowhere in the huge
numbers seen in the past. While the present situ-
ation continues no one should enter that area before
having obtained confirmation that it is safe to do
so. Albania itself is also slowly coming out of the
cold and yachts which have stopped in one of the
Albanian ports have been allowed to spend a short
time there. Compared to the diversity of Croatia,
the east coast of Italy has very little to offer and
there is only a limited number of safe harbours
along the en tire coast.
i Because of its narrowness and other specific fac-
r CRUISING GUIDES: Black Sea Cruising Guide.
r tors, weather conditions in the Adriatic tend to be
very localised. The most dangerous wind is the
I born, a violent northerly wind that occurs mostly
!
[
in winter. There is a north-setting current along the
eastern shore which can be used to advantage when
making northbound passages. It is generally
advisable to favour the eastern shore when bound
in either direction, because of the availability of
sheltered anchorages.
The Aegean Sea
CRUISING GUIDES: Greek Waters Pilot, Saronic,
Turkisli Waters Pilot.
The islands of the Grecian archipelago and the
Turkish coast of Asia Minor offer a great variety of
cruising opportunities and this is reflected in the
large number of sailing boats that ply the Aegean
each summer. Navigation rarely presents any real
problems, there are countless safe harbours and
anchorages, all dangers are clearly marked on
charts and even the traditional rivalry between
Greece and Turkey affects visiting sailors only in
a tangential way.
Ideally, the Aegean should be cruised from north
to south, and because of the prevailing northerly
winds of summer it is recommended to arrive in the
Northern Aegean before the end of May so as to
benefit from a favourable wind for the following
three months. The ever increasing popularity of
these cruising grounds makes most ports very
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
crowded during the peak holiday months of July
and August, when more secluded anchorages
should be sought out. As the safe cruising season
extends from March to November it is possible to
visit most harbours either before or after the great
summer invasion. This may be also the time to visit
some of the adjacent areas, such as Istanbul or the
Black Sea.
When the meltemi is blowing strongly offshore,
violent gusts often occur in the lee of high ground.
Accelerated down the land, this can produce 40-50
knots of wind very suddenly in an area previous-
ly calm. This effect occurs particularly on steep
southern coasts, both ofislands and the mainland.
The meltemi is also funnelled through straits,
ravines, and between islands. When sheltering on
a southerly coast during a northerly gale this
squally effect must be allowed for.
The Marmara and Black Sea
Most boats reach this area from the SW, island hop-
ping through the Aegean, although a few boats
arrive in the Black Sea by way of the Danube. The
passage through the Aegean should be undertak-
en in spring, before the onset of the melterni, when
winds are either light or non-existent and one must
be prepared to motor. Because of the strong out-
flowing current in the Dardanelles, tacking against
a NE wind is almost impossible, the task made even
more difficult by the large amount of shipping. A
weak counter-current is usually felt on the
European side of the strait, which should be
favoured as far as Chanakkale, where it is com-
pulsory to cross to the Asian side to clear into
Turkey. The rest of the Dardanelles and the cross-
ing of the Sea of Marmara is best done h1 daily
stages, both because of the amount of shipping and
the usual lack of wind at night.
Passing through the Bosporus should only be
attempted in daylight and the European side of the
strait should be favoured where a weaker counter-
current will be found. A thick haze often occurs on
summer mornings, which makes navigahon very
difficult in the strait due to the large number of
ships.
Until not so long ago, cruising in the Black Sea
used to be limited to a few Turkish ports and the
designated ports of entry of the other countries:
Bulgaria, Romania, and the Soviet Union. The fall
of Communism has certainly brought about an
447
ROUTES JN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
opening up of all those countries, but unfortunately
foreign cruising boats are still submitted to endless
formalities. Bulgaria and Romania are now wel-
coming cruising yachts openly but in both Russia
and the Ukraine foreign yachts are supposed to
arrive only after having received an official invi-
tation by either a yacht club or a shipping agency.
In all these countries tourist visas should be
obtained in advance for every crew member. One
of the most attractive Black Sea countries is
Georgia, but civil war in this former Soviet repub-
lic has made it into a no-go area for foreigners.
The Black Sea enjoys a climate very similar to the
Mediterranean in summer, being mainly fine and
MlO MEDITERRANEAN ROUTES
FROM GIBRALTAR
MU Gibraltar to the Balearics
M12 Gibraltar to Sicily
M13 Gibraltar to North Africa
M14 Gibraltar to Malta
With the Strait of Gibraltar safely behind them,
eastbound boats have a much easier task when
leaving Gibraltar than boats setting off in the oppo-
site direction. The only time when one should not
448
sunny, with winds predominantly from the NW or
W formed by the same system which generates the
meltemi. In winter tl1e weather is much colder,
especially in more northerly parts where ice can
occur. Very variable conditions prevail in the tran-
sition months, April-May and September-October,
the winds changing quickly both in force and direc-
tion. Local effects as well as land and sea breezes
are well marked. In the Dardanelles and Bosporus
NE winds are the most frequent as there is a gen-
eral airflow from the Black Sea into the Aegean. If
the wind is not blowing from the NE in these nar-
rows it is usually from the opposite SW direction.
449
450
450
452
consider leaving Gibraltar is during strong easterly
winds. Generally, winds tend to be funnelled either
west or east in the strait. At Gibraltar westerly
winds predominate in winter and easterly in
~4
CORSICA 'tY
~SARDINIA
M12 if!:IJ.
 MlO MEDITERRANEAN ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR
summer. Levanters are more frequent from July to
October and can blow for up to 15 days at a time,
although not always too strongly, their average
strength being around 15 knots. In winter the lev-
anter is shorter but stronger, bringing rain, clouds,
Mll Gibraltar to the Balearics
From any of the marinas or the anchorage near
Gibraltar airport, boats should make their way to
Europa Point and WP Mlll, south of that remark-
able landmark. From that point the recommended
route runs parallel to the Spanish coast keeping at
least 20 miles. offshore where steadier winds will
be found. Along the entire length of the Spanish
coast there are several good harbours in which shel-
ter can be sought in bad weather. A favourable east-
setting current is felt at least as far as Cabe de Gata,
which is passed at a distance of approximately 10
miles to the south through WP M112. From this
point the route turns N E passing dose to Cabe de
Palos through WP Mll3. It is at this point that boats
bound for ports further up the Spanish coast should
continue on a route parallel with that coast, where-
as boats bound for the Balearics head offshore for
WP M114, if the intention is to call first at Ibiza, in
which case the recommended route passes west of
Formentera. WP M114 is five miles west of
Espalmador Islet and there are several deep chan-
nels between the southern extremity of Ibiza and
and haze. Vendavales also occur most frequently
from November to March. In the Jee of the Rock the
wind causes eddies blowing strongly from differ-
ent directions only a short distance apart.
Espaimador lsiet. The currents in the ch annels are
strong and often set against the prevailing wind,
which can result in rough seas in strong winds.
Under such circumstances it is better to pass east
of Formentera, which is also the recommended pro-
cedure if one is bound directly for Palma de
Maliorca. In this case, from WP113 a course is set
for WP Ml 15, off the SE point of Formentera. From
there, boats bound for Ibiza should alter course for
WP M116, outside Ibiza harbour, whereas those
bound for Mallorca should set a course for WP
M117, in the Bay of Palma in the app roaches to
Palma de Mallorca. There are several marinas in
Palma and the most convenient, nearest to the town
centre, is run by the Real Club Nautico, located in
Darsena San Pedro, in the eastern part of the port.
The club monitors VHF channel 9 permanently.
Arriving yachts should go to the reception dock to
be assigned a berth. Club de Mar, located inside
Porto Pi, in the western part of the harbour, is a
much larger marina but further from town.
449
 I
i ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
I
I M12 Gibraltar to Sicily

1:

1:

11
:J

/1
.,
11

11

,,I The same route, and similar directions as for route

Mll should be followed as far as Cabo de Gata.
I
From there the route continues in an easterly direc-
i tion to WP M123, some 35 miles SW of Sardinia. At
that point, boats bound for the Sicilian capital
should alter course for WP M124, off Cape Gallo,
in the approaches to Palermo. Boats bound for the
Strait of Messina should continue almost due east
to WP M125, to pass south of Vulcan Island, and
make landfall at WP M126, off Cape Peloro, in the
northern approaches to the Strait of Messina.
Having reached the legendary narrows sepa·
11 rating Sicily from mainland Italy, those intending
I to stop have a choice of ports on the east coast of
Sicily, although the busy port of Messina should be
avoided because of the continuous ferry traffic.
/'
1:
Ii
I ..
M13 Gibraltar to North Africa
l /1
I;:
In the Strait of Messina the wind tends to blow
either in a northerly or southerly direction along
the axis of the strait. Sometimes the wind will be
NE on the eastern side, NW on the western side,
and very light in the middle. Alternatively it can
be S to SE in the southern approaches, changing
abruptly to NW in the northern approaches,
which creates a heavy sea. Violent gusts come off
the high ground, which together with strong tidal
currents and a number of small whirlpools and
eddies contribute to the strait retaining the flavour
of Scylla and Charybdis of the time of Odysseus.
A line of bores called tagli can occur at the change
of tide. It is therefore essential to time one' s tran·
sit of the strait with a favourable tide.
 MlO MEDITERRANEAN ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR
There is a large choice of destinations on the North
African shore, from the small Spanish possessions
of Ceuta and Melilla all the way to the east coast
of Tunisia. The latter has become the favourite
cruising destination in North Africa, mainly as a
result of the opening of a number of good marinas.
Few boats stop in Algeria, where yachting facilities
continue to be very basic.
From WP M130, south of Europa Point, the route
goes s'o uth of Alboran Island and stays close to the
North African coast to benefit from the favourable
east-setting current. If the intention is to call at
either Melilla or Sidi Fredj, in Algeria, the initial
course goes to WP M131, off Cape Tres Forcas, from
where the course can' be altered for the intended
port of destination. Sidi Fredj has a marina and is
reported to have the best yachting facilities in
Algeria.
Boats bound for ports further east on the
Algerian coast or ports in Tunisia should also take
a route that goes south of Alboran Island. Their first
WP will be M132, some ten miles south of that
island, from where the course is altered for WP
M133, off Cape Tenes. From that point, the route
follows the North African coast closely to take
advantage of the favourable current, passing
through a number of intermediate waypoints, all
of which avoid sailing into territorial waters.
Staying a prudent distance off the coast is also
advisable to avoid the areas frequented by local
fishing boats, especially at night, as some of the
smaller boats do not show lights. One of the dan-
gers to be avoided along this route are the Sorelles
rocks, SW of Galite Island. From WP M136, south
of those rocks, the course is altered for WP M137,
North of Cape Enghela. Having reached this point,
boats intending to call at Bizerte should alter course
for the coast, whereas those bound for Tunis should
set a SE course for WP M138 so as to pass SE of Cani
Island. From WP M138, east of Plane Island, the
course turns due south and makes landfall at WP
M139, off Cape Carthage, in the approaches to the
Tunisian capital. The nearest marina is at La
Goulette and arriving boats should make their way
there to complete entry formalities.
451
 RO UTES IN THE M EDITERRANEAN S EA
M14 Gibraltar to Malta
A more offshore route than M13 can be sailed by
boats bound for Malta, unless one is determined to
take full advantage of the favourable east-setting
current along the African coast, in which case the
same directions apply as far as WP M137, at the
entrance into the Skerki Channel at the NE
extremity of Tunisia.
During the summer months, from May to
September, the recommended route does not fol-
low the African shore so closely and passes north
of Alboran Island as the advantages to be gained
by sailing an inshore route are probably cancelled
out by the disadvantages. Along the entire North
African coast, vessels should keep outside of ter-
ritorial waters and also pay attention to local fish-
ing boats, especially at night as many do not show
lights. Westerly winds are more likely to be
encountered along this route during the remaining
months of the year, from October to April, and
therefore this passage is best planned either at the
beginning or end of the season. During summer, if
consistent easterly winds are met, it is usually bet-
ter to make the voyage in stages, stopping either
in Spain and the Balearics, or along the African
coast. The African coast should be avoided in win-
,I! ter when strong northerly gales make it a danger-
1' I
/!I
;I
1· I
'j I
ous lee shore. If easterly winds persist after leav-
ing Gibraltar, either in summer or winter, better
conditions will be experienced by staying closer to
the Spanish coast than North Africa. Such a route
continues eastwards as far as the south of Sardinia
before tacking across the channel between Cape
Bon and Sicily.
The direct route takes its departure from WP
M141, south of Europa Point, from where an initial
course is set for WP M142, 20 miles SE of Cabo de
Gata. From there a long offshore leg goes all the
way to WP M143 passing halfway between North
Africa and Sardinia. From that point, the course
become SE and passes through the Skerki Channel
to pass close to the north of the island of
Pantelleria. The course continues in almost the
same direction to WP M145, east of Gozo. From
there the course is altered for WP M146 so that
landfall is made north of the Maltese capital.
Arriving boats should contact Valletta Port Control
on VHF channels 12 or 16 before proceeding to
one of the reception docks at Msida Marina
or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting Centre can be
contacted on VHF channel 9 to request docking
information.

M20 ROUTES FROM THE
BALEARIC ISLANDS
M21 Balearics to French Riviera
M22 Balearics to Messina Strait
M23 Balearics to Malta
M24 Balearics to Gibraltar
M20 Routes from the Balearic Islands
The Balearic Islands, and especially Mallorca, are
now one of the top yachting centres in the world
and both docking and repair facilities are of the
highest standard. Very few cruising boats visiting
the Mediterranean miss calling at the Balearics and
indeed they are an attractive place to explore and
also an excellent place at which to prepare the boat
for a long passage. This can be of particular inter-
M21 Balearics to French Riviera
M20 ROUTES FROM THE BALEARIC ISLAND S
453
454
455
455
est to those planning to cross the Atlantic to the
Caribbean and for whom a stop in the Balearics at
the end of summer has a great attraction.
Summers are hot, but winters are mild, the main
reason for the Balearics also being one of the main
tourist centres in the Mediterranean. Northerly
winds predominate in summer and gale force
winds are confined to the winter seasbn.
453
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
During the summer months the prevailing wind on
this route is NW. The worst thing that can affect a
vessel bound for the French coast is to encounter
a mistral, which can be very violent in the Gulf of
Lions. The mistral affects mainly the western parts
of the French Riviera, ports lying east of St
Raphael being less affected. A direct course can be
sailed from the Balearics to practically every port
on the French Riviera. If a mistral is forecast it is bet-
ter to close with the coast immediately and then
reach the intended destination by sailing under the
protection of the coast, or go into one of the many
ports to seek shelter should the weather deteriorate.
Depending on the subsequent destination, one
should start cruising at one or the other end of the
Riviera. Generally it is better to make landfall at a
western port, such as Marseille, and then sail east
along the coast as far as Nice or even beyond before
taking off for Corsica or Italy. Such a route is also
attractive for those planning to return to the
M22 Balearics to Messina Strait
The route from either Mallorca or Menorca pass-
es so close to Sardinia that most.boats make a small
detou.r to visit at least the southern part of this
island. Because of its location at the SE extremity
of the Balearics, Puerto Mahon on Menorca is a
good place to leave from. From WP M221, outside
Mahon, an initial course is set for WP M222, SW of
Balearics, as a complete circle can b~ accomplished
by sailing from the French Riviera to Corsica and
from there back to the Balearics. Such aroute also
uses the prevailing winds to best advantage.
Boats leaving from Palma de Mallorca have to
reach the open sea before a course can be set for a
French port. Because of the prevailing summer
winds it is better to leave from the west of Mallorca
by making one' s way to Isla Dragonera, the small
island lying off the western extremity of Mallorca.
Having reached WP M211, boats bound for
Marseille can set a direct course for WP M212, in
the SE part of the Bay of Marseille, south of
Pomegues Island. There are several marinas in or
around Marseille, but for short term visitors the
most convenient is the one inside the old port
(Vieux Port), which is located in the centre of
Marseille. This is entered between the two ancient
forts, the reception dock for visitors being imme-
diately on the starboard side.
Sardinia. Boats intending to stop first at Palermo
should alter course for WP M223, off Cape Gallo,
in the approaches to the Sicilian capital. Boats
bound for the Strait of Messina nonstop should
continue almost due east from WP M223 to WP
M224, south of Vulcan Island, and make landfall at
WP M225, off Cape Peloro, in the northern

approaches to the Strait of Messina.
Having reached these narrows separating Sicily
from mainland Italy, those intending to stop have
a choice of ports on the east coast of Sicily. A port
to be avoided is the busy port of Messina because
of the continuous ferry traffic. For more details on
M23 Balearics to Malta
Similar directions apply for this route as far as the
south of Sardinia as those described in route M22.
Having reached WP M232, between North Africa
and Sardinia, the course continues in a SE direction
and passes through the Skerki Channel, then WP
M233, NE of the island of Pantelleria and on to WP
M234, east of Gozo. From there the course can be
altered for WP M235 so that landfall is made north
M24 Balearics to Gibraltar
M20 ROUTES FROM THE B ALEARIC ISLANDS
weather conditions in the Strait of Messina see
route M12 . Boats bound for the Eastern
Mediterranean and wishing to avoid Messina
Strait, can do so by passing south of Sicily and pos-
sibly calling at Malta (see route M23).
of the Maltese capital. Valletta Port Control should
be contacted on arrival on VHF channels 12or16
before proceeding to one of the reception docks at
Msida Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting
Centre, which administers the various marinas in
the Maltese capital, can be contacted on VHF chan-
nel 9 to request docking information.
455
 ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRAN EAN SEA
This route should have favourable winds at least
as far as Cabo de Gata. It is at that point that a con-
trary east-setting current becomes most noticeable,
and so the mainland coast should not be
approached too soon. Boats leaving from Palma de
Mallorca, from WP M241 should set an intial course
which passes south of Ibiza and east of Formentera.
From WP M243 a new course is set to pass through
WP M244, well to the south of Cabo de Gata. The
Spanish coast should be approached only after
Cabo de Gata has been passed as the east-going
current is strongest in the vicinity of this cape. The
I route then follows the coast of Spain closely so as
~I M30 ROUTES FROM
~I MEDITERRANEAN FRANCE
M31 French Riviera to Balearics
M32 French Riviera to Messina Strait
M33 French Riviera to Malta
M34 French Riviera to Gibraltar
to avoid the stronger current offsl)ore. If strong
westerly winds are encountered when approach-
ing Gibraltar it is better to seek shelter in a Spanish
port along the Costa de! Sol to wait for a change
rather than try to make head way against both con-
trary wind and current. See also route AN16 (page
44) for details on weather conditions in the Strait
of Gibraltar as well as directions for negotiating the
strait.
liaving made landfall south of the light on
Europa Point, arriving boats should proceed to the
customs dock, in Marina Bay, south of the runway,
to complete formalities.
457
458
458
459

The French Riviera, and particularly the Cote
d'Azur, from Marseille to the Italian border, has one
of the highest concentrations of marinas in the
world. As to be expected, yachting facilities are of
the highest standard. Sailors hailing from other
parts of the world are somewhat at a loss when a
decision has to be made concerning cruising along
this coast. One important suggestion is to avoid
arriving at the height of summer, in July and
August, when all ports and marinas are full and in
most places it is impossible to find docking space.
A much better time is either late spring or early
autumn, when the weather is more pleasant and
M31 French Riviera to Balearics
Marseille, or one of the ports in its vicinity, is a good
point of departure for boats that have cruised along
the French Riviera coast in a westerly direction.
Those who may have cruised in the opposite direc-
tion will take their departure from a port further
east, possibly as far as Menton, near the Italian
border. For those starting that far east, a detour to
Corsica has certain attractions. If sailing nonstop,
a convenient port of arrival in the Balearics is
Mahon, on Menorca (route M31A). Landfall is made
at WP M312, off Caho Negro, from where the nar-
row channel is followed into the port of Mahon.
Boats leaving the Riviera from further west
(route M31B), such as Marseille, should take their
M30 ROUTES FROM MEDITERRANEAN FRANCE
neither the ports nor the resorts ashore are so
crowded.
The weather is pleasant for most of the year,
although summers tend to be hot. The Gulf of Lions
is especially noted for sudden changes in wind and
weather, with very different conditions in places
near together. The strongest wind is the mistral,
which can produce unpleasant conditions. After
the mistral, the next common wind is the marin,
which blows warm and moist, SE to SW off the sea,
and although not as strong as the mistral it raises
a heavy sea.
departure from WP M313, east of the small island
of Pomegues, in the SE part of the Bay of Marseille.
From that point a direct course can be sailed across
to Mallorca. Boats bound for Palma de Mallorca,
should make their landfall on the NW coast of the
island and then follow Mallorca's west coast into
Palma. There are a number of marinas in the Bay
of Palma, while in Palma itself the most convenient,
as it is nearest to the town centre, is the marina run
by the Real Club Nautico, located in Darsena San
Pedro, in the eastern part of the port. The club mon-
itors VHF channel 9 permanently. Arriving yachts
should go to the reception dock to be assigned a
berth.
457
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
M32 French Riviera to Messina Strait
Most boats bound for the Strait of Messina and
beyond will probably stop in Corsica on their way
south as the island straddles the direct route south.
Because the west coast of Corsica is more attractive
and has a number of good harbours, most boats
leaving the Riviera make straight for Caivi or
Ajaccio. Favourable winds can be expected during
the summer months and even the mistral blows
from the right direction, although it is usually asso-
ciated with rough seas. From WP M321, off Cap
Ferrat, in the approaches to the port of Nice, a direct
course can be sailed to WP M322, off Ajaccio. A first
suggested stop is at this attractive Corsican port.
From Ajaccio the route continues around the SW
coast of Corsica and reaches the Tyrrhenian Sea
through the Bonifacio Strait. Another suggested
stop is at the small port of Bonifacio, on the north
side of the strait. This strait, separating Corsica
from Sardinia, is an intricate waterway dotted with
M33 French Riviera to Malta
458
rocks and islets, although navigation through the
channels that traverse it is not too difficult.
Having passed through the strait and regained the
open sea, from WP M323, NE of the Italian island
of Maddalena, a direct course can be set for WP
M324, between Panaria and Salina, in the Aeolian
Islands. A slight course alteration is needed to
reach WP M325, off Cape Peloro, in the northern
approaches to the Messina Strait.
The timing of the passage through this strait sep-
arating Sicily from mainland Italy should be cal-
culated in relation to the state of the tide. The
cu rrents through the Messina Strait depend on the
tide and can a ttain over 4 knots at springs. The
southgoing stream has a longer duration and this
can be further increased by a northerly wind. Each
turn of the tide is accompanied by one or more tidal
bores. These waves are only dangerous to small
craft if a strong wind is blowing against the tide.
~
~
J
I
I
I

Favourable winds can be expected for most of this
passage during the summer months. Depending on
the port of departure, there is a choice of routes, as
one can go either east or west of Corsica. The more
direct route (M33A) stays west of both Corsica and
Sardinia, and is recommended especially if leaving
from one of the more western ports on the French
Riviera. If leaving from a port such as Marseille,
from WP M331, east of the small island of
Pomegues, in the SE part of the Bay of Marseille,
a direct course can be set for WP M332, off
Sardinia's SW point. From there, the route runs
through Skerki Channel to WP M333, north of the
island of Pantelleria.
Boats leaving from one of the more eastern ports,
M34 French Riviera to Gibraltar
M30 ROUTES FROM MEDITERRANEAN FRANCE
such as Nice, may prefer to sail first to Corsica, and
from there take a more indirect route (M33B) by
going through the Strait of Bonifacio and then east
of Sardinia. On this route, from WP M338, east of
Maddalena, a direct course can be set for WP M333,
north of Pantelleria. The two routes join at that
point and continue towards WP M334, off Gozo,
before the course is altered for WP M335, north of
La Valletta. Valletta Port Control should be con-
tacted on arrival on VHF channels 12 or 16 before
proceeding to one of the reception docks at Msida
Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting Centre can
be contacted on VHF channel 9 to request docking
information.
459
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
The number of boats which sail this entire route
without stopping is very small, especially as the
Balearics, which straddle the direct course, are a
very tempting stop. Boats leaving from ports in the
eastern part of the French Mediterranean coast may
sail a course which passes to the east of the
Balearics. The direct route from more western
ports, such as Marseille, passes to the west of the
Balearics and stays close to the Spanish coast for
most of its length.
As far as the Balearics favourable winds are to
be expected throughout the summer months. The
chances of easterly winds in the second half of the
passage are higher in late spring and autumn.
There is also a higher proportion of easterly winds
along the North African coast, so it may pay to
take a course which runs closer to that shore, but
not close enough to be affected by the east-setting
current.
Boats leaving from Marseille and WP M341, east
of the small island of Pomegues, in the SE part of
the Bay of Marseille, should set an initial course for
WP M342, to pass halfway betwen Ibiza and Cabe
M40 ROUTES FROM SICILY
M41 Sicily to Greece
M42 Sicily to French Riviera
M43 Sicily to Balearics
M44 Sicily to Gibraltar
M45 Sicily to Port Said
Most boats on a transmediterranean passage call
at a Sicilian port or at least sail through the Messina
Strait on their way to their destination. Situated at
the crossroads of several offshore routes, Sicily has
plenty of good ports in which to make a longer or
shorter stop. For boats preparing to leave on a pas-
460
San Antonio, on the Spanish mainland. The course
continues parallel with the Spanish coast to WP
M343, off Cabe Palos, before the course is altered
for WP M344, so as to pass well to the south of Cabe
de Gata and avoid the strong current that sets to the
east around that cape. The Spanish coast should be
approached only after Cabe de Gata has been
passed as the eastgoing current is strongest in the
vicinity of the cape. The route then follows the coast
of Spain closely so as to avoid the stronger current
offshore. The alternative, as explained above, is to
seek better winds by favouring the African coast.
Having made landfall south of the light on
Europa Point, boats intending to stop in Gibraltar
should make their way to the customs dock, in
Marina Bay, to complete formalities. The dock is
located south of the runway and is reached by
going past North Mole.
Those continuing into the Atlantic without
stopping should consult route AN16 (page 44) for
details on weather conditions in the Strait of
Gibraltar as well as directions for negotiating the
strait.
461
463
463
464
465
sage to Greece or beyond, there are several ports
south of the Messina Strait. The small port at
Taormina has the advantage of not only being close
to the strait, but also convenient for visiting Mount
Etna.

M40 Routes from Sicily
In summer a strong sea breeze blows onshore in the
daytime in Sicily, being NE at Palermo, NE to Sat
Syracuse, and S to SW at Agrigento, on the south
coast. In the Strait of Messina the wind tends to
blow either in a N or S direction along the strait,
depending on the prevailing conditions. Sometimes
the wind will be NE on the eastern side, NW on the
western side, and very light in the middle.
Alternatively it can be S to SE in the southern
approaches, changing abruptly to NW in the north-
ern approaches, which creates a heavy sea. Violent
gusts come off the high ground, which together
with strong tidal currents and a number of small
M41 Sicily to Greece
M40 ROUTES FROM SICILY
whirlpools and eddies contribute to the strait
retaining the flavour of Scylla and Charybdis as
experienced by Odysseus. Mirages of a multiple
image type are sometimes seen in the strait. The
currents through the Messina Strait depend on the
tide and can attain o'ver 4 knots at springs. The
southgoing stream has a longer duration and this
can be further increased by a northerly wind. Each
turn of the tide is accompanied by several tidal
bores. These waves are only dangerous to small
craft if a strong wind is blowing against the tide.
The state of the tide should be assessed correctly
so as to transit the strait with a fair tide.
461
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
Having passed through the Strait of Messina, boats
bound for the Aegean can reach it either through
the Corinth Canal (route M41A), or by rounding the
southern tip of the Peloponnese (route M41B). The
northern route has the advantage of reaching ports
in the Saronic Gulf as well the central islands of the
Aegean more directly. This is particularly impor-
tant in summer, when the rneltemi is blowing
strongly and contrary winds can make it very dif-
ficult to reach the same islands if coming from the
SW. In spring and autumn the southern route is an
acceptable alternative. The latter is also to be pre-
ferred if bound for Crete, Rhodes, or points further
east.
Once the strait has been left safely behind, from
WP M410, off the port of Messina, the initial course
goes due south to WP M411, off Capo dell' Armi.
Boats sailing the northern route should alter course
for WP M412, south of Cape Spartivento. From that
point a direct course can be set across the Ionian Sea
for WP M413, n orth of Zante Island in the
approaches to the Gulf of Patras. Those who wish
to clear into Greece can do so in the port of Zante,
on the east coast of the island of the same name.
462
Those who prefer to continue towards the Corinth
Canal may clear into Greece further east, such as
in the port of Patras, close to the western entrance
to the canal
From WP M411, south of the Messina Strait, boats
sailing the sou thern route can set a direct course for
WP M414, SW of Sapientza Island. From this point, i
the route goes around the three fingers of the
Peloponnese by passing through WPs M415,
r
M416, and finally reaching M417. The last way- f
point, off Cape Malea, is at the SW extremity of the
Aegean Sea, with its multitude of destinations. r
Boats bound for Crete (route M41C) should leave i
the above route at WP M415 and set a new course
for WP M418, south of Antikithera Island. From
there, the route runs parallel to the north coast of fI
Crete to WP M419, west of Dhia Island, in the
approaches to Iraklion, the main port and capital i
of Crete. Boats should proceed into the old f
Venetian harbour, where there are a number of pon-
toons for yachts. If there is no free space cruising !.
boats may use the quay immediately to the east of r
~
the small boat harbour.
,I
t
I.

M42 Sicily to French Riviera
The direct route from the Strait of M~ssina to
Corsica passes through the Aeolian Islands and tra-
verses the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Strait of Bonifacio.
There are several channels leading through these
narrows, the main passage (Boca Grande) being the
easiest to negotiate. This route is often taken by
boats heading for the Canal du Midi at the end of
their Mediterranean cruise. With persistent NW
winds it is better to sail from Corsica to the near-
est port on the mainland French coast and make
westing by sailing along the coast. This is also the
recommended practice to avoid a strong mistral,
when conditions can be become very rough in the
Gulf of Lions and it is better to wait for an improve-
ment in one of the many harbours along this coast.
Having negotiated the Strait of Messina, from
WP M421, in the northern approaches to the strait,
an initial course is set for WP422, west of Panaria
Island. From there, the route continues to WP423,
off the island of Maddalena in the approaches to
Bonifacio Strait. This strait, separating Corsica and
Sardinia, is dotted with rocks and islets, although
the channels are clearly marked and it is not diffi-
M43 Sicily to Balearics
M40 ROUTES FROM SICILY
cult to traverse it. If a stop in Corsica is not intend-
ed and having regained the open sea, from
WP424, west of Cape Pertusato, a direct course can
be sailed for the French mainland and WP M425.
A good landfall is east of the island of Porquerolles
at the entrance into the Bay of Hyeres. A first stop
can be made on Porquerolles itself, where there is
a small harbour (43 'OO'N, 6 "12'E). Hyeres itself has
a large marina and is one of the biggest sailing cen-
tres on the Riviera.
An alternative route for those who wish to visit·
ports at the eastern extremity of the French
Riviera is to stay east of Corsica and cross to the
mainland from its northern point. In this way the
NW winds of summer will be met at a better angle
and the worst of a possible mistral may also be
avoided.
Because of the difficulties associated with a pas-
sage through the Strait of Messina from south to
north, an alternative route for boats sailing from
Greece to Corsica and Southern Frarn;e is to pass
south of Sicily, thus avoiding the Messina Strait
altogether.
463
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEA N SEA
Most boats bound for the Balearics from Sicily take
their departure from the Messina Strait. From WP
M431, north of the strait, the route runs west par-
allel to the north coast of Sicily, to WP M432, south
of Vulcan Island. The course is altered there for WP
M433, south of Sardinia. From that point, boats
bound for Menorca can set a direct course for WP
M434, off Cabo Negro, from where the narrow
channel is.followed into the port of Mahon.
Boats bound for Palma de Mallorca should set a
course from WP M433 for WP M435, off Cape
M44 Sicily to Gibraltar
Boats that have passed through the Messina Strait
should follow a course which runs parallel to the
north coast of Sicily. From WP M441, off Cape
Peloro, north of Messina Strait, an initial course can
be set for WP M442, south of Vulcan Island. The
route continues almost due west to WP M443,
south of Sardinia. There follows a long offshore leg
to WP M444, which has been set well to the south
of Cabo de Gata in order to avoid the strong cur-
rent that sets to the east around that cape. The off-
464
Salinas, at the SE extremity of Mallorca. From there
the course is altered for WP M436, in the Bay of
Palma. There are several marinas in the Bay of
Palma, while in Palma itself the most convenient,
as it is nearest to the town centre, is the marina run
by the Real Club Nautico, located in Darsena San
Pedro, in the eastern part of the harbour. The club
monitors VHF channel 9 permanently. Arriving
yachts should go to the reception dock to be
assigned a berth.
shore route may be left after Cabo de Gata has been
passed to close with the Spanish coast to avoid the
stronger current offshore.
The chances of easterly winds on this route are
higher in late spring and autumn. The proportion
of easterly winds is higher along the North
African coast, so if one has access to weather infor-
mation it may be better to sail a route which stays
closer to that shore, but not close enough to be
affected by the prevailing east-setting current.

Having made landfall at WP M445, south of the
light on Europa Point, boats should make their way
to the customs dock, in Marina Bay, to complete for-
malities. The dock is located south of the runway
and is reached by going past North Mole.
M45 Sicily to Port Said
Favourable winds can be expected along this route
for most of the year. Because the current normal-
ly sets eastward along the Egyptian coast, and the
current is augmented by the waters of the Nile,
especially when the river is in flood, landfall should
be made to the west of Port Said. As the water is
shallow throughout the area, the coast should not
be approached beyond the 20 fathom line which
can be followed as far as Damietta. Boats under-
taking this passage are usually bound for the Red
Sea and are only calling in Egypt because of the
Suez · Canal. Those who wish to stop in an
Egyptian port before Port Said can do so at
Alexandria. However, yachting facilities for visi-
tors are limited in that port and the only ones avail-
able belong to the Alexandria Yacht Club, which is
one of the most unwelcoming clubs in the world.
Those who wish to visit the interior of Egypt would
do better to do it from either Port Said or Suez,
whose yacht clubs are much more helpful.
Having transited Messina Strait, an initial
course is set from WP M451 for WP M452, off Capo
dell' Armi. From that point a direct course can be
M40 ROUTES FROM SICILY
Those continuing into the Atlantic without
stopping should consult route AN16 (page 44) for
details on weather conditions in the Strait of
Gibraltar as well as directions for negotiating the
strait.
set from WP M453, off the Damietta mouth in the
Nile delta. From there the course is altered for WP
M454, in the northern approaches to Port Said and
the Suez Canal Because of the low, featureless
Egyptian coast and the shallow depths which
extend several miles offshore, the position of Port
Said is very difficult to ascertain if landfall is made
either too far east or west. The situation is further
complicated by the occasionally strong currents in
the area, which can be influenced by the state of the
Nile waters. The cluster of ships at anchor is usu-
ally the best indication of the approaches to Port
Said. The approach channel to Port Said extends
several miles to the north and is well marked by
buoys. It should be entered at its northern extrem-
ity and no shortcuts taken because of a number of
wrecks lying outside this channel. Small vessels are
allowed to proceed into the harbourwifuout a pilot
and all formalities can be completed after the ves-
sel has berthed at Fouad Yacht Club. This is situ-
ated on the eastern side of the harbour. See page
491 for details on transiting the Suez Canal.
465
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

MSO ROUTES FROM MALTA

M51 Malta to Gibraltar 466
M52 Malta to Greece 467
M53 Malta to Rhodes 468
M54 Malta to Cyprus 469
M55 Malta to Port Said 470 i

MSO Routes from Malta

Malta's position in the centre of the Mediterranean
makes it an ideal jumping off point for ports in
either the Western or Eastern Mediterranean.
Yachting facilities are among the best in the
Mediterranean as Malta was an important yacht-
ing centre long before the Balearics, Costa de! Sol,
Greece, and Turkey became such popular cruising
destinations. Its convenient location, excellent
repair facilities, and pleasant climate make it a good
wintering spot.
The summers are hot, while the winters are mild.
Being so close to the African coast, the weather is
very much under the influence of that large land-
mass. The sirocco can be strong and there is also a
daily change in wind direction due to strong land
and sea breezes.

M51 Malta to Gibraltar

466

The autumn is when most passages are made on
this route as boats that have spent the summer in
the Eastern Mediterranean are rushing west to join
the annual exodus to the Caribbean. Depending on
the direction of the wind, the route after leaving
Malta can pass either north or south of Pantelleria
Island. If strong NW winds are encountered SW of
Sicily, shelter should be sought in the lee of
Pantelleria. With persistent contrary winds it is bet-
ter to head from Malta across to Tunisia and stay
close to that coast as far as Cape Bon. After Cape
Bon, the route should stay offshore to avoid east-
setting currents on the coast of Africa.
In late summer, early autumn northerly winds
can be expected for the first half of this passage,
while the second half has a better chance of
favourable easterly winds in spring and late
autumn. During late summer calms are frequent on
this route, especially in the vicinity of Malta.
Unless one has access to reliable weather infor-
mation, the shortest route should be sailed. From
M52 Malta to Greece
M50 ROUTES FROM MALTA
WP M511, outside Valletta harbour, an initial course
is set to pass east of Gozo. From that point (M512),
the route turns north and passes north of Pantelleria
Island through WP M513 and on to WP M514, south
of Sardinia. From there the course becomes west-
erly and passes well to the south of Cabo de Gata,
at the SE extremity of the Iberian peninsula. The
Spanish coast should be approached only after the
above cape has been passed as there is a strong east-
erly current in its immediate vicinity.
Having made landfall south of the light on
Europa Point, arriving boats should proceed to the
customs dock in Marina Bay, south of the runway,
to complete formalities. The two older marinas are
in that bay, whereas the new Queensway Marina
is inside the commercial harbour, which will be
passed on the way to customs dock. Boats sailing
through the Strait of Gibraltar without stopping,
should consult route AN16 (page 44) for details on
weather conditions in the Strait of Gibraltar as well
as directions for negotiating the strait.
467
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
Winds on this eastbound route across the Ionian
Sea are variable throughout the year with the high-
est frequency of westerly winds in winter. There is
a preponderance of northerly winds in summer,
with light winds and calms being more common at
the beginning and end of summer. The most direct
route to the Aegean (M52A) passes south of the
Peloponnese and approaches the Cyclades from the
SW. Any of the three channels separating Cape
Malea from Crete can be used, although the north-
ernmost Elafonisos Channel, between Kithera
Island and Cape Ma lea, is usually favoured as it is
the most sheltered from the prevailing winds. Boats
taking this most direct route to the Aegean can sail
a direct course from WP M521, outside Valletta
Harbour, to WP M522, off Cape Tainaron, on the
middle finger of the Peloponnese. The course is
then altered for WP M523 to pass clear of the north-
ern extremity of Kithera Island. The Aegean Sea is
entered at the last waypoint (M524), off Cape
Malea, from where one has the choice of a multi-
tude of destinations.
Because of the constancy of the northerly winds
in the Aegean during summer, between the mid-
dle of June and the end of August it is more con-
venient to approach the Cyclades from the NW
rather than SW, as described above, and therefore
M53 Malta to Rhodes
468
route M52B is recommended in summer. Taking
WP M521, outside Valletta, as the departure point
from Malta, a direct course can be sailed to WP
M525, south of Zante. The south coast of that island
is followed around to pass through the channel sep-
a rating it from the Peloponnese coast. Those who
wish to clear into Greece at the earliest opportunity
can do so in the port of Zante. For those who do not
wish to stop, from Zante the route continues into
the gulfs of Patras and Corinth and reaches the
Aegean through the Corinth Canal.
Boats bound for Crete (M52C) should sail a more
southern route than M52A and use the Antikithera
Channel, south of the small island of the same
name and then continue parallel to the north coast
of Crete. Landfall can be made at WP M526, off
Cape Gramvousa, at the NW extremity of Crete.
From there the course can be altered for WP M527
to pass north of Cape Spathi. Boats bound for
Iraklion should continue as far as WP M528, west
of Dhia Island, in the approaches to the Cretan cap-
ital. Boats should proceed into the old Venetian har-
bour, where there are a number of pontoons for
yachts. If there is no free space cruising boats may
use the quay immediately to the east of the small
boat harbour.
,r
}

The island of Rhodes is a useful starting point for
cruises in Eastern Turkey and this passage from
Malta is usually made at the start of summer when
winds on this route are variable. Better winds are
experienced in summer when northerly winds pre-
vail for most of the distance. There are two routes
that can be sailed from Malta to Rhodes, and each
has its own attraction. The route which goes around
the it6rth coast of Crete (M53A) will appeal to those
who prefer to make some stops en route. From WP
M531, outside Valletta harbour, a direct course can
be set for WP M532, in the Antikithera Channel,
between the island of that name and the NW coast
of Crete. From that point the route cuts across the
Southern Aegean all the way to WP M533, NW of
Mandraki harbour, on the NW coast of Rhodes. The
route passes a number of dangers north of Crete,
all of which are marked by lights.
Those who wish to reach Rhodes by an offshore
route, which stays south of Crete (M53B), may find
better conditions on this slightly longer route. Such
M54 Malta to Cyprus
M50 ROUTES FROM MALTA
a route will avoid the swell encountered in the
Southern Aegean during summer, but may Jose the
winds in the Jee of Crete. When sailing in the lee
of that island, especially during July and August,
when the meltemi is blowing strongly in the
Aegean, violent gusts occasionally blow down the
steep slopes on the south coast of Crete.
Boats taking route M53B, from WP M531, outside
La Valletta, should set an initial course for WP
M534, south of Gavdhos Island. From that point the
route continues due east, parallel to the south coast
of Crete, to WP M535. At that point, the course
turns NE and makes for WP M536, off the SE
extremity of Rhodes, before a final course alteration
is made for WP M537, in the eastern approaches to
the port of Mandraki. The port is reached by round-
ing the northern tip of Rhodes. Mandraki (Limin
Rhodou) is always crowded and visiting boats may
find it difficult to secure a free berth. Additional
docking space was planned for 1994.
469
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
The route to Cyprus passes immediately to the
south of Crete and in strong northerly winds it is
possible to close with the Cretan coast to benefit
from the lee provided by the high island. However,
when sailing close to the coast, attention must be
paid to the strong gusts which occasionally blow
with great force down the steep mountain slopes
towards the sea.
Because of the declaration of independence by
the Turkish side of Cyprus and the still unresolved
dispute over partition, the authorities in the
Greek side do not welcome boats that have called
first in Northern Cyprus and then visit the south.
For this reason, those intending to call in Northern
Cyprus should perhaps do so after having visited
Southern Cyprus. Northern Cyprus, and especially
the attractive port of Kyrenia, is a good starting
point for visits to the southern coast of neigh-
bouring Turkey.
Boats bound for Southern Cyprus (route M54A),
should set an initial course from WP M541, outside
Valletta harbour, for WP M542, south of Gavdhos
Island, a·small island off the SW point of Crete. The
route then continues parallel to Crete and crosses
over to WP M543, SW of Cape Zevgari, on the
south coast of Cyprus. The course continues to WP
M544, off Cape Gata, from where boats bound for
Limassol should alter course for WP M545, in the
M55 Malta to Port Said
470
NW comer of Akrotiri Bay. Yachts E!tther anchor in
the commercial harbour or in the fishing harbour
nearby. Limassol Marina is a further six miles to the
NE (34 '42.S'N, 33 "09.S'E). The marina uses the call-
sign Shera ton Harbour and monitors VHF channels
9 and 16.
Boats bound for Lamaca should continue across
Akrotiri Bay to WP M546, off Cape Kiti. A course
alteration will be needed for WP M547, off Cape
Dades, south of the port of Lamaca. Larnaca
Marina monitors VHF channel 16. Occasionally
yachts are asked to anchor in the outer harbour
while a berth is found for them.
Boats sailing route M54B to Northern Cyprus
should follow the same route as far as WP M542,
SW of Crete. The route then passes close to
Gaidhouronisi, another small island off the Cretan
coast and continues to WP M548, off Cape
Kormakiti, at the NW extremity of Cyprus. The
course is altered there for WP M549, off Snake
Island, west of Kyrenia (Girne). The capital of
Northern Cyprus has a small harbour and yacht-
ing faci,lities are much below those available in the
south. Yachts usually go into.Kyrenia's inner har-
bour, which is very attractive but also very small.
As the approaches to this older harbour are not lit,
night arrivals should be avoided. The new com-
mercial port is located NE of the town.
·i
II

Favourable northerly winds prevail along this route
during summer. If the passage is made in winter or
in strong northerly winds it may be advisable to
pass closer to Crete, as there are several harbours
along its south coast where shelter can be found in
bad weather. However, when sailing close to
Crete, attention must be Eaid to the strong gusts
which occasionally blow~ith great force down the
steep mountain slopes towards the sea.
Boats undertaking this passage are usually
bound for the Red Sea and are only calling in Egypt
because of the Suez Canal. Those who wish to stop
in an Egyptian port before Port Said can do so at
Alexandria. However, yachting facilities for visi-
tors are limited in that port and the only ones avail-
able belong to the Alexandria Yacht Club, which is
one of the most unwelcoming c.lubs in the world.
Those who wish to visit the interior of Egypt would
do better to do it from either Port Said or Suez,
whose yacht clubs are much more helpful.
A direct course can be sailed all the way 1from
Malta and WP M551 to WP M552, north of the
Damietta mouth of the Nile river, in the approach-
M60 ROUTES FROM GREECE
M61 Greece to Malta
M62 Greece to Messina Strait
M63 Rhodes to Cyprus
M64 Rhodes to Port Said
M65 Rhodes to Malta
The Greek islands continue to be one of the most
popular cruising grounds in the world and very
few long distance cruising boats pass through the
Mediterranean without visiting them. The main
feature of the Aegean, from where all of the above
routes originate, are the strong northerly winds of
summer. These winds prevail from June until
M60 ROUTES FROM GREEC E
es to Port Said. At that point the course should be
altered for WP M553, north of Port Said and the
entrance into the shipping channel leading to the
Suez Canal. Because of the low, featureless coast
and the shallow depths which extend several miles
offshore, the position of Port Said is very difficult
to ascertain if landfall has been made either too far
east or west. The situation is further complicated
by the occasionally strong currents in the area,
which are also influenced by the state of the Nile
waters. The cluster of ships at anchor is usually the
first indication of the approaches to Port Said. The
approach channel to Port Said extends far offshore
and is well marked by buoys. It should be entered
at its northern extremity and no shortcuts taken
because of a number of wrecks lying outside this
channel. Small vessels are allowed to proceed into
the harbour without a pilot and all formalities can
be completed after the vessel has berthed at Fouad
Yac.h t Club. This is situated on the eastern side of
the harbour. See page 491 for details on transiting
the Suez Canal.
472
473
474
475
475
August and they must be taken into account when
drawing up any cruising plans which include that
part of the world. The best' strategy is to try to
arrive in the Northern Aegean by the end of May
and then sail slowly south with the help· of the
meltemi. By the end of summer one is then ready
to embark on one of the following routes.
471
R OUT ES IN T H E M EDIT ERRANE AN S ~A

M61 Greece to Malta

Wher~as boats on the opposite· route have to con-
tend with the strong northerly winds of summer
and therefore have a choice of route to reach the
Aegean, the same winds make the passage to Malta
472
much easier. To leave the Aegean one can use any ~
of the channels between the Peloponnese and .i
Crete, although the closest channel to Crete,
which goes SE of Antikithera, is probably the sim-
.·

plest. Boats which have included Crete on their itin-
erary can join the offshore route at the same point
(route M61A). A route which passes close to Cape
Malea (M61B) benefits from the shelter provided
by the P.eloponnese by staying longer in the lee of
the land before reaching the open sea. Finally, boats
which have used the Corinth Canal, or are leaving
from one of the Ionian islands, will join route
M61C.
From WP M611, in Antikithera Channel, a
direct course can be set by boats on route M6IA for
WP M612, off Valletta harbour. Boats leaving the
Aegean closer to the Peloponnese and joining route
M61B should take their departure from WP M613,
M62 Greece to Messina Strait
There are two main routes reaching the Messina
Strait from Greece. Boats leaving from the Central
Aegean may prefer to use the Corinth Canal and
pass north of the Peloponnese (route M62A),
whereas boats which are in the Southern Aegean
should join route M62B.
Route M62A takes its departure from Greece at
WP M621, in the channel between the islands of
Cephalonia and Zante. The route goes right across
the Ionian Sea to WP M622, off Cape Spartivento
at the toe of Italy. The coast is followed around the
M60 ROUTES FROM GREECE
off Cape Malea. The route passes through an inter-
mediate waypoint before a direct course for Malta
can be ·set from WP M615, north of Kithera
Island. On route M61C, a suggested point of depar-
ture is WP M616 north of Zante Island, from where
a direct course can be set for WP M612, in the
approaches to the Maltese capital.
On arrival in Malta, boats should contact
Valletta Port Control on VHF channels 12 or 16
before proceeding to one of the reception docks at
Msida Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting
Centre can be contacted on VHF channel 9 to
request docking information.
ii
next cape to WP M623 to approach the Messina
Strait from the south.
Boats taking the more southern route should
start off from WP M625, off Cape Malea. The three
fingers of the Peloponnese are followed around to
WP M628, off Sapientza Island, from where a direct
course can be set for WP M623 off Capo dell' Armi,
in the southern approaches to Messina Strait.
The narrow strait separating mainland Italy
from Sicily has its own weather peculiarities. Usually
the wind tends to blow either in a northerly or
473
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
southerly direction along the axis of the strait.
Sometimes the wind will be NE on the eastern side,
NW on the western side, and very light in the mid-
dle. Alternatively it can be S to SE in the southern
approaches, changing abruptly to NW in the north-
ern approaches, which creates a heavy sea. Violent
gusts come off the high ground, which together
M63 Rhodes to Cyprus
The most direct route from Rhodes (M63A) leads
to Paphos, a small port on the SW coast of Cyprus,
from where it is easy to reach the two major ports
in Southern Cyprus, Limassol and Larnaca.
Because of the unresolved dispute between the two
sides of the island, caused by the declaration of
independence by the Turkish side, the alternative
route (M63C) should only be used if the intention
is to visit Nor thern Cyprus. The authorities in
Greek Cyprus do not approve of boats stopping in
Northern Cyprus first, so for the time being it is bet-
ter to visit the south before the north. An easterly
current sets along the coast of Cyprus, and
because of this current Cape Andreas, at the NE
474
with strong tidal currents and a number of small
whirlpools and eddies remind one of why this is
the presumed location of the Scylla and Charybdis
of the Odyssey. A line of bores called tagli can occur
at the change of tide. It is therefore essential to time
one's transit of the strait with a favourable tide.
.."
extremity of the island, should be approached with
caution .
Boats bound for Southern Cyprus (route M63A)
and intending to stop first at Paphos, which is an
official port of entry, can set a direct course from
WP M630, off Mandraki harbour, for WP M631,
west of Cape Paphos. The small harbour is
reached by passing south of this cape.
Boats bound for Lirnassol or Larnaca (route
M63B) should set a course from WP M630 for
WP632, SW of Cyprus. From there the course is
altered for WP M633, SW of Cape Zevgari, on the
south coast of Cyprus. The course continues to WP
M634, off Cape Gata, from where boats bound for

Limassol should alter course for WP M635, in the
NW corner of Akrotiri Bay. Yachts either anchor in
the commercial harbour off the town of Limassol
or in the fishing harbour nearby. Limassol Marina
is a further six miles to the NE (34 "42.S' N,
33'09.S'E). The marina uses the callsign Sheraton
Harbour and monitors VHF channels 9 and 16.
Boats bound for Larnaca should continue across
Akrotiri Bay to WP M636, off Cape Kiti. A course
alteration will be needed for WP M637, off Cape
Dades, south of the port of Larnaca. Larnaca
Marina monitors VHF channel 16 and will give
M64 Rhodes to Port Said
Favourable winds can be expected along this route
for most of the year. Because the current normal-
ly sets eastward along the Egyptian coast, and the
current is augmented by the waters of the Nile,
especially when the latter is in flood, landfall
should be made to the west of Port Said. As the
water is shallow throughout the area, the coast
should not be approached beyond the 20 fathom
line, which can be followed as far as Damietta.
M65 Rhodes to Malta
M60 ROUTES FROM GREECE
berthing instructions. Occasionally yachts are
asked to anchor in the outer harbour while a vacant
berth is found for them.
Boats sailing route M63C to Northern Cyprus
wiJl pass close to the south coast of Turkey. From
WP M630, off the NE tip of Rhodes, an initial course
should be set for WP M638, off Strongili Island.
From there the course can be altered to make land-
fall at WP M639, off Cape Kormakiti, at the NW
extremity of Cyprus. The course is altered there for
WP M6310, off Snake Island, west of Kyrenia, the
capital of Northern Cyprus.
A direct course can be set from WP M641, off the
NE point of Rhodes, for WP M642, off the
Damietta mouth of the ile. From there the
course is altered for WP M643, in the northern
approaches to Port Said and the Suez Canal. Boats
are n·o rmally met by a pilot launch and directed to
the Fouad Yacht Club on the eastern side of the har-
bour. See page 491 for details on transiting the Suez
Canal.
475
 ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
There are two routes that can be sailed to Malta, one
passing north of Crete, the other passing south. The
northern route should appeal to those who intend
to stop on the way as there are several convenient
ports on the north coast of Crete. Both routes can
be sailed nonstop and the waypoints listed above
are for direct passages. The northern route,
although slightly shorter, has the disadvantage of
stronger winds and relatively high swell during the
months when the meltemi is in force in the Aegean.
At such times the southern route, although longer,
may be preferable.
Boats sailing the northern route (M65A), should
take their departure from WP M651, west of
Mandraki, from where a direct course can be sailed
all the way to WP M652, in the Antikithera
Channel, NW of Crete. This route passes a number
of dangers, such as the Sofrana Rocks, which are
M70 ROUTES FROM PORT SAID
M71 Port Said to Malta
M72 Port Said to Messina Strait
M73 Port Said to Crete
M74 Port Said to Rhodes
M75 Port Said to Cyprus
M76 Port Said to Israel
Having transited the Suez Canal and arrived in Port
Said, suddenly the entire Mediterranean lies before
one. Routes from Port Said fan out in all directions
and, because of its convenient location, most des-
tinations are within easy reach. The exception is for
!. 476
ii
well marked by lights. From WP M652 a direct
course can be sailed to WP M653, east of Valletta.
Boats sailing the southern route (M65B) should
take their departure from WP M654, NE of
Rhodes, from where an initial course can be set to
WP M655, off the east coast of the island. From that
point the course can be altered for WP M656, off
Koufonisi Island, SE of Crete. The route then runs
parallel to the south coast of Crete to WP M657,
south of Gavdhos Island. From there a direct route
leads to WP M653, off the Maltese capital. Arriving
boats should contact Valletta Port Control on VHF
channels 12 or 16 before proceeding to one of the
reception docks at Msida Marina or Lazaretto
Creek. The Yachting Centre, which manages all
marinas in the Maltese capital, can be contacted on
VHF channel 9 to request docking information.
477
478
478
479
479
480
routes heading in a NW direction, as contrary winds
are likely to be encountered, particularly in summer.
This is a good reason for timing an arrival in Port
Said for late spring if one is headed in that direction.

M71 Port Said to Malta
On leavmg Port Said, an initial course can be set for
WP M712, north of the Damietta mouth of the Nile,
in order to reach deeper water. From that point a
direct course can be set for WP M713, just outside
the Maltese capital. Contrary winds are predomi-
nant on this route and every shift of wind should
therefore be used to advantage. A good supply of
fuel should also be loaded in Port Said to be able
to motor if necessary in calms or light winds.
Preferably the route should pass close to the south
coast of Crete, where shelter can be sought in strong
M70 ROUTES FROM PORT SAID
W or NW winds. If shelter is sought in the lee of
Crete, or if passing close to the island, attention
must be paid to the strong gusts blowing down the
steep mountains.
On arrival in Malta, boats should contact
Valletta Port Control on VHF channels 12 or 16
before proceeding to one of the reception docks at
Msida Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting
Centre can be contacted on VHF channel 9 to
request docking information.
477
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
M72 Port Said to Messina Strait
The recommended route to the Messina Strait pass-
es close to Crete, where a waypoint (M723) has
been set SW of the island of Gavdhos. If necessary,
the route can be altered earlier, so as to pass
between Gavdhos and Crete. From WP M723 a
direct course can be set to . WP M724 off Capo
dell' Anni, in the southern approaches to Messina
Strait.
The narrow strait separating mainland Italy from
Sicily has its own weather peculiarities. Usually the
wind tends to blow either in a northerly or souther-
ly direction along the axis of the strait. Sometimes
the wind will be NE on the eastern side, NW on the
M73 Port Said to Crete
478
western side, and very light in the middle.
Alternatively it can be S to SE in the southern
approaches, changing abruptly to NW in the north-
ern approaches, which creates a heavy sea. Violent
gusts come off the high ground, which together
with strong tidal currents and a number of sinall
whirlpools and eddies make it easier to see why the
Scylla and Charybdis of the Odyssey are reputed to
have been located in this strait. A line of bores
called tagli can occur at the change of tide. It is
therefore essential to time one's transit of the strait
with a favourable tide.

Strong northerly winds make this a difficult pas-
sage in summer, but better conditions are normally
experienced in either spring or autumn, when most
boats sail this route. Boats bound for islands in the
Aegean will fare better by taking route M74 and
enter the Aegean from the SE. Sailing north from
Crete is difficult throughout the summer, so a stop
there is better left for the end rather than the start
of an Aegean cruise.
From WP M732, north of the Damietta mouth of
the Nile, a course can be set for WP M733, east.of
M74 Port Said to Rhodes
Having left Port Said and its busy approaches, from
WP M742, north of the Damietta mouth in the Nile
delta, a direct course can b!'! set for the NE point of
Rhodes and WP M743. The port of Mandraki is
reached by rounding the NE extremity of the
island. Mandraki (Limin Rhodou), the main port of
Rhodes, is always crowded and cruising boats may
find it difficult to secure a free berth, especially in
M75 Port Said to Cyprus
' )
L
I
M70 ROUTES FROM POR'I' SAID
Cape Sidheros, the NE point of Crete. There are sev-
eral attractive ports on the north cgast of Crete and
these can be reached by rounding Cape Sidheros
and closing with the coast. Boats bound for
Iraklion should alter course for WP M734. From
there the route runs parallel to the north coast of
Crete to WP M735, NE of Iraklion. Boats should
proceed into the old Venetian harbour, where there
are a number of pontoons for yachts. If there is no
free space cruising boats may use the quay imme-
diately east of the small boat harbour.
the summer. Additional docking space was
planned for 1994.
Because of the preponderence of contrary winds
along this route, it may be necessary to motor in
calm or light winds. If strong NW winds persist
while in Port Said, it is better to make a detour via
Cyprus and follow directions as for route M83
(page 483).
479
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERR.ANEAN SEA
Cyprus is a popular destination for boats that have
transited the Suez Canal as it provides a convenient
springboard for subsequent visits to neighbouring
Middle Eastern countries. Unfortunately the con-
tinuing disagreement between the two parts of
Cyprus make it difficult to cruise between North
and South Cyprus. As the authorities in Northern
Cyprus do not seem to mind boats having called
first in the South, that part of Cyprus should be vis-
ited first. The small port of Paphos, on the SW coast
of Cyprus, is a convenient point of departure for
boats bound for either Rhodes or Southern Turkey
and can also be used for shelter should the weath-
er deteriorate suddenly.
A direct route for any port on the south coast of
Cyprus can be set as soon as .the long entrance
channel of Port Said has been left behind. Boats
bound for Limassol should set a course for WP
M752, off Cape Gata from where the course can be
altered for WP M753, in the NW corner of Akrotiri
Bay. The marina at Larnaca, in Larnaca Bay, is a
favourite refitting and wintering spot among
M76 Port Said to Israel
This is a route taken by those who wish to start
their cruising in the very east of the Mediterranean.
From Port Said boats bound for Tel Aviv can set a
480
long distance voyagers. To reach it an initial course
should be set for WP M754, off Cape Kiti, from
where the route turns north into Larnaca Bay.
Boats bound for Northern Cyprus (route M75B)
will find it much more convenient to round
Cyprus from the west as a strong east-setting cur-
rent makes it more difficult to go around Cape
Andreas, the NE extremity of the island. If sailing
this route, which leaves Cyprus to starboard, a first
recommended waypoint (M756) is off Paphos.
From there a small detour can be made into this
official port of entry into Cyprus, or one can con-
tinue to WP M757, off Cape Arnauti, at the NW
extremity of Cyprus. From there the course can be
altered for WP M758, off Cape Kormakiti and final-
ly landfall can be made at WP M759, near Snake
Island, in the approaches to Kyrenia (Girne), the
capital of Northern Cyprus. Cruising boats usual-
ly go into the inner harbour, which is very small.
As the approaches to this older harbour are not lit
night arrivals should be avoided. A new commer-
cial port is located NE of the town.
direct course for WPM762, off Tel Aviv Marina. A
big swell makes itself felt in the Eastern
Mediterranean throughout the year and the seas

breaking in the shallo~ waters off the Israel coast
occasionally make it difficult to enter some ports.
Boats approaching the Israeli coast are supposed
to contact the authorities when 40 miles off to give
details of vessel and ETA On approaching the coast
yachts are met and occasionally boarded by a patrol
boat, which then accompanies the vessel to the port
of entry. Tel Aviv Marina monitors VHF channel 16,
but because of the difficult entrance night arrivals
M80 ROUTES FROM CYPRUS
M81 Cyprus to Israel
M82 Cyprus to Port Said
M83 Cyprus to Rhodes
M84 Cyprus to Crete
M85 Cyprus to Malta
M86 Cyprus to Southern Turkey
The strategic position of Cyprus in the Eastern
Mediterranean makes it an excellent starting
point for voyages in any direction. The one major
problem is the continuing dispute between the
authorities of the divided island, those in Southern
Cyprus not welcoming yachts that have called first
in Turkish speaking Northern Cyprus. Occasionally
M80 Routes from Cyprus
M80 ROUTE S FROM CYPRUS
should be avoided. A guide boat is occasionally
sent out by the marina to assist those not familiar
with the entrance. There is a smaller marina at Jaffa,
two miles south of Tel Aviv. Jaffa Marina (32°03.3'N,
34 "43'E) also monitors VHF channel 16 and will
send out a boat to guide in those unfamiliar with
the entrance, which can be particularly difficult in
onshore winds.
482
483
483
484
485
486
yachts which had stopped in Northern Cyprus first
have not been permitted to call at a port in Southern
Cyprus. The authorities in Northern Cyprus do not
seem so particular about boats that have called in
the south first. If this situation persists, these facts
should be taken into account when drawing up
cruising plans for that part of the world.
481
RO UTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
The weather is generally pleasant with norther-
ly winds prevailing in summer, especially along the
north coast. Variable winds are more common
along the south coast, where day breezes are also
a phenomenon that contributes to a complicated
M81 Cyprus to Israel
~
The best point of departure for the short passage
to Israel is Larnaca, wh ere up to date information
should be obtained from the port authorities con-
cerning sensitive areas to be avoided. There is a
choice of destinations on the Israeli coast, with
most boats making either for Haifa or for Tel Aviv.
The former is a busy commercial port with little
attraction for cruising boats. Tel Aviv has a good
marina and is also a better place for visits into the
interior, such as Jerusalem. Boats approaching the
Israeli coast are supposed to contact the authorities
when 40 miles off to give details of vessel and ETA.
Tel Aviv Marina monitors VHF channel 16. On
approaching the coast yachts are met and occa-
sionally boarded by a patrol boat, which then
accompanies the vessel to the port of entry.
Whether leaving from Larnaca and WP M811, in
Larnaca Bay, or from Limassol and WP M812, in
Akrotiri Bay, a direct course can be sailed to WP
482
weather picture. An easterly current sets along the
northern coast, which is particularly noticeable in
the vicinity of Cape Andreas, the NE extremity of
the island.
M813, NW of Cape Carmel, in the approaches to
Haifa, before the course can be altered for the port
of Haifa. Spartan Reef, in the l\TW part of the Bay
of Akko (Acre) should be avoided as the swell nor-
mally breaks over it. There is a small marina at
Akko, north of Haifa, and there are plans to
increase its capacity. In Haifa itself, the Carmel
Yacht Club occasionally has room for visitors at
their facility at the mouth of Kishon River.
Boats sailing to Tei Aviv (route M81 B) should use
the same departure points and set a course for WP
M814, NW of Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv Marina monitors
VHF channel 16, but because of the difficult
entrance night arrivals should be avoided. A guide
boat is occasionally sent out by the marina to assist
those not familiar witl1 the entrance. There is also
a small marina at Jaffa (32 "03.3' N, 34 "43'E), about
two miles south of Tel Aviv. Entering the marina
can be very difficult in strong W winds.

M82 Cyprus to Port Said
This route benefits from favourable winds for most
of the summer. From most ports on the south coast
of Cyprus there is a clear run to a point 10 miles
north of the entrance into Port Said, which is the
recommended anchorage for commercial shipping
waiting to transit the Suez Canal. Because of the
low, featureless coast and the shallow depths which
extend several miles offshore, the position of Port
Said is very difficult to ascertain if landfall is made
either too far east or west. The situation is further
complicated by the unpredictability of the currents
in the area, which are also influenced by the state
of the Nile waters. The cluster of ships at anchor
is usually the first indication of the approaches to
Port Said.
Boats leaving from Larnaca and WP M821
should set an initial course to WP M822, to clear
M83 Cyprus to Rhodes
M80 ROUTES FROM CYPRUS I
Cape Kiti. From WP M822 a direct course can be set
for WP M825, at the northern entrance into the
shipping channel leading into Port Said. Boats leav-
ing from Limassol, in the NW part of Akrotiri Bay,
should set an initial course from WP M823 for WP
M824, off Cape Gata. From that point, a direct
course can be sailed to WP M825, off Port Said.
The approach channel to Port Said extends far
offshore and is well marked by buoys. It should be
entered at its northern extremity and no shortcuts
taken because of a number of wrecks lying outside
this channel. Small vessels are allowed to proceed
into the harbour without a pilot and all formalities
can be completed after the vessel has berthed at the
Fouad Yacht Club. This is situated on the eastern
side of the harbour.
483
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
It is generally recommended to wait for a spell of
E or SE winds before making this passage, which
can be hampered by strong northerly winds in
summer. If persistently strong W or NW winds
occur after the start of this passage, it is preferable
to go on the port tack and head for the Turkish coast
where either a change in the weather can be await-
ed or shorter tacks taken along the coast.
A convenient port to wait for favourable condi-
tions for boats sailing route M83A is Paphos, on the
SW coast of Cyprus. Boats coming from ports on
the south coast of the island can join the offshore
route close to that point. From WP M831, outside
Paphos harbour, a direct course can be set for WP
M84 Cyprus to Crete
Directions are similar to those for route M83, with
the advantage that the prevailing northerly winds
of summer will be met at a better angle. However,
boats bound for islands in the Aegean would do
484
M835, off the NE tip of Rhodes.
Boats leaving from Kyrenia, in Northern Cyprus
(route M83B), should set an initial course from WP
M832 for WP M833, off Cape Kormakiti. The sub-
sequent offshore route passes close to a group of
islands off the south coast of Turkey. Those who
wish, may clear into Greece at Kastellorizon.
Otherwise, from WP M834, off the small island of
Strongili, the course is altered for WP M835, in the
approaches to Mandraki, the main port on the
island of Rhodes. Mandraki (Limin Rhodou) is
always crowded and cruising boats may find it dif-
ficult to secure a free berth. Additional docking
space was planned for 1994.
l
f.
better to sail to Rhodes, as described in route M83,
and enter the Aegean from the SE. Because of the ·;
strong meltemi, sailing north from Crete is difficult
throughout the summer, so when making plans for
'
1' ·
I

an Aegean cruise it is better to visit the islands to
the north of Crete first and leave Crete for later.
Whether leaving from the south or north of
Cyprus, the routes to the north coast of Crete con-
verge in Dhiavlos Kasou, the channel separating
Crete from the island of Kasos. Boats leaving from
Southern Cyprus (route M84A) will find it conve-
nient to take their departure from Cyprus at
Paphos, on the SW coast of the island. From WP
. M841 a direct course can be set for WP M842, east
of Cape Sidheros, at the NE extremity of Crete.
Boats leaving from Northern Cyprus on route
M85 Cyprus to Malta
Reasonable conditions can be expected on this
route throughout the summer, with best chances of
favourable winds between the middle of June and
the middle of August. Calms become more fre-
quent with the approach of autumn.
Boats leaving from one of the ports in Southern
Cyprus, such as Larnaca or Limassol, should take
their departure from Cyprus at WP M851 , SW of
Cape Zevgari (route M85A). From this point the
route passes south of Crete through WP M852,
south of Gavdhos Island. From there a direct course
can be set for WP M853, at the entrance into
M80 ROUTES FROM CYPRUS
M84B, will sail a coursl! to pass clear of Cape
Kormakiti, the NW extremity of Cyprus, before
being able to set a course for WP M847, south of
Kasos Island. At that point the course can be altered
for WP M843, NE of Crete, and joins the route from
Southern Cyprus. The route for Iraklion runs par-
allel to the north coast of Crete to WP M844, NE of
the Cretan capital. Boats should proceed into the
old Venetian harbour, in the SW comer of the large
commercial harbour. If there is no free space at one
of the pontoons, cruising boats may use the quay
immediately east of the small boat harbour.
Marsamxett Harbour.
Boats sailing route M85B from Kyrenia, in
Northern Cyprus, should take their leave from the
island at WP M855, off Cape Korrnakiti, from where
a course can be set to pass south of Crete through
WP M852 and on to WP M853, in the approaches
to the Maltese capital. On arrival in Malta boats
should contact Valletta Port Control on VHF chan-
nels 12 or 16 before proceeding to one of the recep-
tion docks at Msida Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The
Yachting Centre can be contacted on VHF channel
9 to request docking information.
485
RO UTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
M86 Cyprus to Southern Turkey
Northern Cyprus, and especially the port of
Kyrenia, is a perfect departure point for the south
coast of Turkey. Boats coming from Southern
Cyprus (route M86B) will fare better by starting
from a western port, such as Paphos. Rounding
Cyprus from the east is not recommended because
of the east-setting current along the north coast and
in the vicinity of Cape Andreas.
U leaving from Kyrenia, boats sailing route M86A
have a choice of destinations, from Anamur on the
east side of the Gulf of Antalya, to Antalya itself,.
or Finike, further west. If the intention is to cruise
the Turkish coast from east to west, it is advisable
to sail first to Alanya, which is the nearest port of
M90 ROUTES FROM ISRAEL
M91 Israel to Cyprus
M92 Israel to Port Said
M93 Israel to Malta
Only a few routes set out from the easternmost
country in the Mediterranean and most boats that
sail them usually make a first stop in Cyprus. As
most of the eastern shores of the Mediterranean
entry coming from this direction, and complete
entry formalities there. From WP M861, north of
Kyrenia, a course is set for WP M862. From there
the course can be altered for WP M863, south of
Alanya. Because the small port is always crowded
with local boats, visiting yachts normally anchor
north of the pier, where protection from the pre·
vailing wind is good.
Boats leaving from one of the ports in Southern
Cyprus (route M86B), such as Paphos, should set
an initial course for WP M865. From that point, the
course can be altered for WP M863, south of the
port of Alanya.
487
488
488
Jack natural harbours, boat movement is confined
to a few ports. Amongst them the busiest is Tel Aviv
marina, used both by visiting and local sailors.

M90 Routes from Israel
1\191 IsraeltoCyprus
Contrary winds are common on this route and
therefore a more northerly starting port, such as
Haifa, is recommended. Most boats sailing this
route usually head for Larnaca before continuing
around the south or north of Cyprus. Larnaca
Marina (34 '55'N, 33 "38.5'E) monitors VHF channel
16. Occasionally yachts are asked to anchor in the
M90 ROUTES FROM ISRAEL
outer harbour while a berth is found for them.
Boats leaving from Haifa should make their way
past Spartan Reef, north of Cape Carmel, to WP
M911, from where a direct route leads to WP M913,
in the Bay of Larnaca. Boats leaving from Tel Aviv
and WP M912 can set a course for the same WP
M913.
487
 ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
1· M92 I~rael to Port Said
A contrary current usually makes itself felt along
this route and it is therefore preferable not to fol-
low the coast too closely, where the current is
strongest. If landfall is made too far east of Port
Said, it is often difficult to identify any coastal fea-
tures and the approaches to Port Said will only be
indicated by the large number of ships lying at
anchor in the recommended waiting area.
From WP M921, outside Tel Aviv marina, a direct
course can be set for WP M922, in the northern
M93 Israel to Malta
This passage can be undertaken at any time dur-
ing summer when mostly northerly winds can be
expected. From WP M931, outside Tel Aviv mari-
. na, a direct course can be set for WP M932 to pass
south of Crete and Gavdhos Island. From there a
new course can be set for WP M933, east of the
488
approaches to Port Said. The approach channel into
Port Said is taken from this point. The channel
should be entered at its northern extremity and no
shortcuts taken because of a number of wrecks
lying outside this channel. Small vessels are
allowed to proceed into the harbour without a pilot
and all formalities can be completed after the ves-
sel has berthed at the Fouad Yacht Club. This is sit-
uated on the eastern side of the harbour.
entrance into Marsamxett harbour. On arrival in
Malta boats should contact Valletta Port Control on
VHF channels 12or16 before proceeding to one of
the reception docks at Msida Marina or Lazaretto
Creek. The Yachting Centre can be contacted on
VHF channel 9 ·to request docking information.
 23
PANAMA AND
SUEZ CANALS
P ANAMA C ANAL
The gradual handing over of the Panama Canal to
the Panamanian authorities by the United States
does not appear to have affected the actual oper-
ation of the Canal, and transiting procedures are
just as straightforward and easy to accomplish as
before. By the year 2000 the Canal will be operat-
ed entirely by Panama.
Atlantic side
Cristobal Signal Station should be contacted on
VHF channel 12 when 3 miles from the harbour
entrance and again when passing between the
breakwaters. Traffic lights control the movement
of vessels between the breakwaters, but small
yachts may enter at any time provided they do so
close to the sides. Having entered the large harbour,
yachts should proceed in a southerly direction to
the recommended anchorage, which is located to
the east of Channel buoy no. 4 and to the south of
Cristobal Mole. The yacht anchorage, called the
Flats, is marked by red and amber buoys.
Alternatively, one may ask permission to proceed
directly to the Panama Canal Yacht Club, which can
be contacted on VHF channel 64. Clearance
instructions can be requested on VHF channel 16.
Both at Cristobal and Balboa, on the Pacific side,
yachts are boarded by a Panamanian boarding offi-
cer, who has many functions and will perform cus-
toms, quarantine, and immigration duties. Those
who prefer to remain at anchor can come to the club
by dinghy and use its facilities, provided permis-
sion has been obtained beforehand. The use of out-
board engines is no longer prohibited between the
anchorage and shore facilities.
Pacific side
Yachts arriving at the Pacific side of the Canal
should contact Flamenco Signal Station on VHF
channel 12 and will be directed to either anchor off
the Balboa Yacht Club or pick up one of its moor-
ings. The club office is open all day on weekdays
and until noon on Saturday and monitors VHF
channel 63. Clearance formalities and the transit-
ing of the Canal can be arranged at the club.
When clearance formalities are completed on
arrival, the Port Authority will issue a cruising per-
mit, which is needed whether transiting the Canal
or not. This also applies to those wishing to visit
the San Blas Islands on the Atlantic side for which
an additional permit has to be obtained at Porvenir,
where all boats are required to stop and check in
before proceeding to the islands.
Those wishing to transit the Canal must follow
the following steps once clearance formalities have
been completed:
1 The skipper must call the Admeasurer's office
(tel. 46 7293 on the Atlantic side, 52 4570 on the
Pacific side) to make arrangements for 11 Panama
Canal Tonnage Certificate to be issued. In
Cristobal, the Admeasurer' s office is on the first
floor of the Administration Building no.1105. In
Balboa, the office is on the first floor of Building
729, Marine Bureau Building. The offices are
open 0700-1600 Monday to Saturday. Payment
must be made in cash in US dollars. Neither trav-
ellers cheques nor any other currency than dol-
lars are accepted. ·
2 After admeasurement, the captain has to report
to the Marine Traffic Control Office (Building
1105, second floor, Cristobal or Building 910, La
Bola, on the Pacific side). An officer will explain
~ P>NAMA AND Sm CANA«

1
A

'' OKFIG
B ' . . ,g
-- -,
'-

Yacht anchorage
iI area 'F' Is marked
by amber and
red buoys Canal

11
Panamn Canal -Atlantic Ocean entrance

the requirements needed for the transit, such as
four mooring lines not less than 100 ft long and
not less than 22 mm (7 /8 inch) in diameter, four
linehandlers in addition to the helmsman and
adequate fenders. The ve$sel is required to be
able to maintain a speed of 5 knots under her
own power. All lines and cleats should be
inspected to ensure that they are in good order
as they will be put under heavy strain during the
transit. Those in need of additional linehandlers
should contact Panama Transit Services on tel. 28
8056.
3 The captain is then given a provisional pilot time
for his scheduled transit, prior to which he will
be required to call Marine Traffic Control (tel. 52
4202 or VHF channel 12) to confirm the time.
Yacht transits take place every ·day of the week
and depend on shipping movement, but on aver-
age yachts have to wait three days before tran-
siting. Yachts normally make the transit in two
490
days, spending the night anchored off Gamboa.
The pilot arrives early in the morning and leaves
for the night, returning the following morning to
complete the transit. Yachts must maintain
their schedule regardless of weather conditions.
Yachts that cannot maintain a speed of 5 knots
will need a change of pilot at Gamboa, halfway
through the Canal. However, if one has indicat-
ed that a speed of 5 knots could be maintained
and this was not achieved, the yacht will be
delayed at Gamboa until a second pilo.t becomes
available the following, day. All additiona.l
expenses for this wm be paid by the owner.
Yachts that cannot maintain more than 4 knots
· have to be towed through the Canal by a
Com.m ission launch, for which a fee is charged.
There are three types of lockage for yachts under
125 ft (38 m) LOA when transiting the Canal: cen-
tre chamber, sidewall, or alongside a tug. Traffic
Control decides on the type of lockage for each
.I

Panama Canal - Pacific Ocean entrance
yacht. Because of the roughness of the walls and the
turbulence created during the filling of the cham-
bers, yachts usually transit centre chamber or
alongside a Commission tug, but each yacht must
be capable of centre lockage.
Centre chamber locknge: The vessel is held in the cen-
tre of the chamber by two bow and two stem lines.
Yachts are sometimes rafted together in which case
only those on the outside will handle two mooring
lines each.
Sidewall lockage: Only two 100 ft Jines are required
~ut plenty of fenders as the walls are rough con-
crete. Care should be taken of the rigging and
spreaders which may hit the walls as the water is
lowered in the chamber. This type of lockage is not
recommended for yachts of less than 70 ft LOA.
Alongside a tug: Two 50 ft lines are required and also
two springs, as well as adequate fenders. This is the
best type of lockage for small yachts and, it is the
preferred lockage used by the Canal pilots.
PANAMA AND S UEZ CANA LS
-
Pacific Ocean
'1::1 Changame Island ·
SUEZ C ANAL
The 87.5 mile long Suez Canal links the
Mediterranean aI)d the Red Sea by way of several
lakes and without any locks. Its opening in 1869
had a tremendous impact on international shipping
as it halved the distance between Europe and the
Far East. In its long history, the Canal has been
closed twice as a result of war, in 1956 for a year
and in 1967 for seven years. It is now used regularly
by about 100 ships per day and its recent upgrad-
ing has made it possible for the Canal to be tran-
sited by vessels of up to 200 000 tons.
Vessels under 300 tons are allowed to use the
canal free of charge, although there are some addi-
tional fees that have to be paid by all users, includ-
ing the smallest yacht. The captains of small vessels
intending to transit the canal are allowed by the
Suez Canal Authority to complete the necessary
formalities on their own, but as they are very com
491
PANAMA AND SUEZ CANALS
Suez Canal
plicated, the use of a shipping agent is strongly rec-
ommended. Both in Port Said and Suez there are
several firms which specialise in handling small
boats and their representatives are usually on sta-
tion in the approaches to the Canal offering their
services, sometimes rather forcefully. If the services
of a local agent are employed, all additional costs
must be specified by the agent and fees agreed in
advance. Agent fees and transit costs all have to be
492
paid in US dollars, therefore it is advisable to carry
some funds in notes, including smaller denomi-
nations.
Those who do not wish to be delayed after the
transit of the Canal is completed, can request out-
ward clearance from either Port Said or Suez while
completing formalities for their transit. They can
proceed on their way as soon as they have
dropped the pilot at the end of the Canal. Those

Suez Canal - the approaches to Suez
wishing to visit inland areas of Egypt either before
or after passing through the Canal need a tourist
visa, which can be obtained on arrival. During a
trip inland, the boat can be left in the care of either
yacht club.
Because of the length of the Canal, very few
yachts are able to transit the Canal in one day. Small ·
vessels are not permitted to use the Canal at night
and for this reason it is necessary to anchor
overnight at Ismailia, in the NW corner of Lake
Timsah. The crew are normally allowed to use the
local yacht club but must not leave the premises.
Usually the same pilot will rejoin the yacht at dawn
to complete the transit.
Yachts must be capable of maintaining a speed
of 5 knots under power. The speed limit in the
Canal is 9 knots. The use of sails is not permitted
in the Canal, although with the pilot's permission
the mainsail may be run up while crossing the
Bitter Lakes if the weather warrants this. If the ves-
sel is delayed for any reason and Ismailia cannot
be reached before nightfall, the captain may be
PANAMA AND SUEZ CANALS
required to anchor for the night in a place where
the yacht does not impede the passage of larger
vessels. The transit procedure is as follows:
Southbound
Small ve·s sels arnvmg at the Mediterranean
entrance to the Canal in Port Said must berth at the
Fouad Yacht Club, wpjch is situated on the east side
of the harbour. Because of the high density of traf-
fic and intricate approaches, Port Said harbour
should not be entered at night. On the morning of
the transit, a pilot will board the vessel at a place
agreed wjth the agent. The pilot will take the ves-
sel as far as Ismailia, where t he night will be.spent
at anchor in Lake Timsah. The pilot will be collected
by launch and either the same pilot or a replace-
ment will join the yacht the following morning to
complete the transit. On arrival in Suez, yachts usu-
ally moor at the Suez Yacht Club, situated in a creek
on the west bank, very close to the southern end of
the capal. The pilot will give instructions how to
reach the club and he can be dropped there.
PANAMA AND SUEZ CANALS
Northbound
Vessels approaching the Canal from the Red Sea
must anchor in Port Ibrahim, in the NE corner of
Suez Bay, close to the north of the Canal entrance.
After formalities have been completed, the boat can
move to the Suez Yacht Club, or remain at anchor.
Whether completing formalities alone or with the
help of an agent, a pilot appointed by the Canal
Authority will join the yacht on the morning of the
agreed day, either at the yacht club or more likely
at the customs wharf close to the entrance to the
Canal, on the west side of the harbour. Yachts nor-
mally transit just after the morning convoy has left
Suez, between 0900 and 1100. Usually on the first
Waiting area
Ships at anchor
Suez Canal - approaches to Port Said
494
day of the transit yachts only manage to go as far
as Ismailia, where the ni_ght is spent at anchor in
Lake Timsah. The pilot will be collected by a launch
and either the same pilot or a replacement pilot will
join the yacht the following morning to complete
the transit. Occasionally, if the morning convoy is
late leaving Port Said, the yacht is del~-yed leaving
Ismailia and may have to spend a second night in
the Canal. On arrival in Port Said, the pilot will be
picked up by a launch and the yacht is free to pro-
_c eed on her way. Those who have obtained
onward clearance can put to sea immediately.
Those who wish to stay should proceed to the
Fouad Yacht Club, on the east side of the harbour.
Numerous
wrecks
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

Asia and Pacific Review 1985, World of Information, Saffron Waldron (1985).
BASS George F, ed, A History of Seafaring, Book Club Associates, London (1974).
· BROWN Alexander Crosby, Horizon's Rim, Arrowsmith, London (1935).
CHICHESTER Francis, Gipsy Moth Circles the World, Pan Books, London (1969).
CORNELL Jimmy, Modern Ocean Cruising, Adlard Coles, London (1983).
CORNELL Jimmy, Ocean Cruising Survey, Adlard Coles, London (1985).
CORNELL Jimmy, World Cruising Survey, Adlard Coles Nautical, London (1989) and International
Marine.
CORNELL Jimmy, World Cruising Handbook, Adlard Coles Nautical, London (1991) and International
Marine Publishing, Camden, Maine (1991).
CORNELL Jimmy, Around the World Rally, Adlard Coles Nautical, London (1993) and Sheridan House
Inc, New York (1993).
DEBENHAM Frank, Discovery and Exploration, Paul Hamlyn, London (1968).
DENHAM HM, The Ion ian Islands to Rhodes, John Murr.a y, London (1969).
DENHAM HM, The Aegean, John Murray, London (1970).
DENHAM HM, Southern Turkey, t/ie Levant and Cyprus, John Murray, London (1973).
DENHAM, HM, The Tyrrhenian Sea, John Murray, London (1972).
FAGAN Brian M, California Coastal Passages, Capra Press and Chartguide Ltd (1981).
FINDLAY Alexander George, Memoir of the North~rn Atlantic Ocean, 13th edn (1873).
FITZROY Rear Admiral, The Weather Book: A Manual of Practical Meteorology, Longman Green, London
(1863).
GIESEKING Ilsemarie, Zwischen Brilckendeck und Kochtopf, Gieseking, Elmshorn (1982).
GRENFELL PRICE A, ed, The Explorations of Captain James Cook in the Pacific, Dover Publications, New
York (1971).
Guide Afriq11e 1984-85, UTA French Airlines (1984).
HART Jerrems C and STONE William T, A Cruising Giiide to the Caribbean and the Bahamas, Dodd, Mead
& Co, New York (1982).
HENDERSON Richard, Sea Sense, Adlard Coles, London (1975).
HEYERDAHL Thor, Sea Routes to Polynesia, Futura, London (1974).
HISCOCK Eric, Cruising Under Sail, 3rd edn, Adlard Coles Nautical, London (1985) and International
Marine Publishing, Camden, Maine (1985).
HORSBURGH James, Directions for Sailing to and from the East Indies, Africa and South America Vol. T,
57th edn, London (1841).
KLINE Harry, ed, Cruising Guide to the Bahamas, Tropic Isle Publishers, Miami (1982).
LUCAS Alan, Cruising the Coral Coast, Horwitz, Sydney (1980).
LUCAS Alan, Red Sea and Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, Imray Laurie Norie and Wilson, Huntingdon
(1985).
MAURY M F, Sailing Directions Vol I, William Harris, New York (1858).
MAURY MF, Sailing Directions Vol TI, Cornelius Wendel, New York (1859).
MOITESSIER Bernard, Cape Horn: The Logical Route, Grafton Books, London, (1973).
NEALE Tom, An Island to Oneself, Collins, London (1966).
NORWOOD Richard, The Seaman's Practice, London (1637).
Ocean Passages of the World, Hydrographer of the Navy (1895), 1923 edn and 1973 edn.

495
BIBLIOGRAPHY

Pacific Business Guide 1986, World of Information, Saffron Waldron (1986).

Pacific Islands Yearbook, Pacific Publications, Sydney (1985).
RANTZEN M J, Little Ship Navigation, Herbert Jenkins, London (1969).
Reed's Ocean Navigator, 3rd edn, Thomas Reed Publications, London (1977).
Reed's Nautical Almanac & Coastal Pilot East Coast, Gulf Coast and Islands (USA), Thomas Reed
Publications, London (1982).
Reed's Nautical Almanac & Coastal Pilot West Coast, Canada, Mexico, Hawaiian Islands, Thomas Reed
Publications, London (1985). .r
RIDGELL Reilly, Pacific Nations and Territories, Guam Community College (1982).
ROBB Frank, Handling Small Boats i11 Heavy Weather, Adlard Coles, London (1972).
ROSSER W H, Navigation of the Atlantic, India and Pacific Oceans, 3rd edn (1868).
ROSSER W Hand IMRAY J F, Sailing Directions for the Indian Ocean (1866).
RCCPF and HAMMICK Anne, ed. Atlantic Crossing Guide, 2nd edn, Adlard Coles autical, London
(1992) and International Marine Publishing, Camden, Maine (1992).
Royal Cruising Club Bulletins.
Sailing Directions Vols 1, la, 24, 34, 38, 44, 45, 46, 48, 60, 64, 6"7, 70, 71, Hydrographic Department.
Seven Seas Cruising Association Commodores' Bulletins 1976-86.
South Seas Guide 1985-86, UTA French Airlines (1985).
SOUTHBY-TAILYOUR Ewen, Falkland Island Shores, Nautical Publishing, London (1985).
STREET Donald M Jr, Street's Cruising Guide to the Eastern Caribbean, WW Norton & Co, New York
(1981).
TATE Michael, Blue Water Cruising, Temple Press, London (1964).
TAVERNIER Bruno, Great Maritime Routes, MacDonald, London (1970).
WALTER Richard, Anson's Voyage Around the World, Penguin Books, London (19;i7).
WILENSKY Julius M, Yachtma11's Guide to the Windward Islands, CSY Inc (1973).

496
CRUISING GUIDES

Adriatic Pilot; Trevor & Dinah Thompson, Irnray, Great Britain

Alaska's Southeast; Sarah Eppenbach
Atlantic Crossing Guide; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain and International
Marine, USA
Atlantic Islands; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Irnray, Great Britain
Atlantic Spain and Portugal; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Imray, Great Britain
Azores Cruising Guide; ed Gwenda Cornell, World Cruising Publications, Great Britain
Baltic Sea Pilot; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Imray, Great Britain
Baltic Southwest Pilot; Mark Brackenbury, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain
Black Sea Cruising Guide; Rick & Sheila Nelson
Canary Islands Cruising Guide; ed Doina Cornell, World Cruising Publications, Great Britain
Channel Islands Pilot; Malcolm Robson, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain
Charlie's Charts of Costa Rica; Margo Wood, Charlie's Charts, Canada
Charlie's Charts of Polynesia (The South Pacific east of 165°W Longitude); Charles Wood, Charlie's Charts,
Canada
Charlie's Charts of the Hawaiian Islands; Charles Wood, Charlie's Charts, Canada
Charlie's Charts of the US Pacific Coast; Charles & Margo Wood, Charlie's Charts, Canada
Charlie's Charts of the Western Coast of Mexico; Charles Wood & Janet Steele, Charlie' s Charts, Canada
Charlie's Charts, North to Alaska; Charles Wood, Charlie' s Charts, Canada
Circumnavigating Australia's Coastline; Jeff Toghill
Circumnavigators Guide; ed. Gwenda Cornell, World Cruising Publications, Great Britain
Coastal Cruising Guide to the Atlantic Coast; Embassy Marine, USA
Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Akarana Yacht Club; Mary Hamilton & D'arcy Whiting, New Zealand
Complete Boating Guide to Florida's East Coast; Embassy Marine, USA
Cruising Association Handbook, Yachting Guide for Southwest Baltic to Gibraltar; Cruising Association, Great
Britain
Cruising Beyond Desolation Sound; John Chappell
Cruising Guide Acapulco to the Panama Canal; Charles & Nancy Goodman
Cruising Guide to Abaco; Steve Dodge
Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico's Caribbean Coast; Freya Rauscher
Cruising Guide to British Columbia; Bill Wolferstan, Whitecap Books, Canada
Cruising Guide to California's Offshore Islands; Brian Fagan
Cruising Guide to Cuba; Simon Charles
Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida; Claiborne Young
Cruising Guide to Newfoundland; ed. Sandy Weld
Cruising Guide to the Abacos and Northern Bahamas; Darrell Wyatt, Westcott Cove Publishing, USA
Cruising Guide to the Caribbean; Williii.m Stone & Ann Hays
Cruising Guide to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park; Stephen Pavlidis
Cruising Guide to the Kingdom of Tonga in the Vava' u Group; The Moorings, Cruising Guide Publications,
USA
Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands; Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications, USA
Cruising Guide to the New England Coast; Roger Duncan
Cruising Guide to the Northwest Caribbean; Nigel Calder, International Marine, USA
Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast; ed. John McKelvy Jr.
Cruising G11ide to Trinidad & Tobago, Venezuela & Bonaire; Chris Doyle
Cruising Guide to the Turquoise Coasts of Turkey; Marcia Davock
Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands; Nancy & Simon Scott
·Cruising in New Caledonia; Joel Mark, Marc Rambeau and Ross Blackman

497
 CRUISING GUIDES

Cruising Ports: Florida to California; John Rains

Cruising the Chesapeake; William Shellenberger
Cruising the Coral Coast; Alan Lucas, Horwitz Grahame, Australia
East Spain Pilot; Robin Brandon, Imray, Great Britain
Falkland Island Shores; Ewen Southby-Tailyour, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain
Gentleman's Guide to Passages South; Bruce van Sant, Cruising Guide Publications, USA
Greek Waters Pilot; Rod Heikell, Imray, Great Britain
Guide to Cruising the Chesapeake Bay; Chesapeake Bay Communications, USA /
Guide to French Mediterranean Ports, including Corsica; Derek Bowskill, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain
Ionian; Rod Heikell, Imray, Great Britain
Ireland Sailing Directions; Irish Cruising Club
Island Expedition: the Turks & Caicos; ed. Dragan & Nicholas Popov
Italian Waters Pilot: Rod Heike!, Irnray, Great Britain
Landfalls of Paradise, Cruising Guide to the Pacific Islands; Earl Hinz, Western Marine Enterprise, USA
Madeira Cruising Guide; World Cruising Publications, Great Britain
Mediterranean Cntising Handbook; Rod Heike!, Imray, Great Britain
Mediterranean France & Corsica, a Sea Guide; Rod Heike!
North Africa, Gibraltar to Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia & Malta; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Imray, Great Britain
North Biscay Pilot; ed. Nicholas Heath, Irnray, Laurie, Norrie & Wilson, Great Britain
North Brittany and Channel Islands Cruising; Peter Cumberlidge
Northern Territory Coast; John Knight, Australia
Panama Canal Pilot's Handbook; The Panama Canal Commission
Phuket & Malacca Straits Cruising Guide; John Batt, Quantum Marine, Thailand
Piclcmere Atlas of Northland's East Coast, New Zealand; AH Pickmere & Janet Watk\ns, Transpacific Marine,
New Zealand
Red Sea Pilot; E Morgan and S Davies
Reed's Nautical Almanac, North American East Coast; ed. John & L~slie Kettlewell
Reed's Nautical Alamanac, Caribbean; ed. John & Leslie Kettlewell
Sail Thailand; John Everingham
Sailor's Guide to the Windward Islands; Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications, USA'
Snronic, the Snronic and Argolic Gulfs including the Peloponnese; Rod Heike!
Shell Pilot to the English Channel, Vol. 1, Shell Pilot to the English Channel, Vol. 2, Harbours in Northern France
and the Channel Islands, Dunkerque to Brest; John Coote, Faber & Faber, Great Britain
South France Pilot; Robin Brandon, Imray, Great Britain
Spanish Mediterranean Yachtsman's Directory; ed. Cindy Cody, Mallorca, Spain
Street's Cruising Guide to the Eastern Caribbean; Donald Street, Norton, USA
Texas & Louisiana Cruising Guide; ed. Bob Heller
I I Turkish Waters & Cyprus Pilot; Rod Heikell, Imray, Great Britain
I The Lesser Anti//es; ed. Oz Robinson, Imray, Great Britain
I ' Turks & Caicos Chart; Bob Gascoine
Virgin Islands Cruise Guide; Better Boating Association, USA
Yachting Guide to Bennuda; ed. Edward Harris

l.
11 Yachting Guide lo the South Shore of Nova Scotia; Arthur Dechman
Yachtsman's Fiji; Michael Calder
;I Yachtsman's Guide to the Virgin Islands; ed. Meredith Fields, Tropic Isle Publishers, USA
Yachtsman's Guide to the Windward Islands; Julius Wilensky
Yachtsman's Handbook and Cruising Guide to Malta; CAS Services, Malta
I

!
' I
498
 INDEX OF ROUTES
AN105 ABC Islands and
Venezuela to Colombia 121-122
AN101 ABC Islands and
Venezuela to Lesser Antilles
118
AN104 ABC Islands and
Venezuela to Panama 120-121
AN102 ABC Islands and
Venezuela to Virgin Islands
118-119
PN15 Alaska to British Columbia
205-206
AN137 Azores to Bermuda 148
AN139 Azores to Canada
149-150
AN136 Azores to Canary Islands
147-148
AN132 Azores to English
Channel 143-144
AN134 Azores to Gibraltar 146
AN131 Azores to Ireland 143
AN135 Azores to Madeira 147
AN133 Azores to Portugal 145
AN138 Azores to USA 149
RN3 Bab el Mandeb to Hodaida
435-436
RN2 Bab el Mandeb to Massawa
435
RNl Bab el Mandeb to Port
Sudan 433-434
ANll 2 Bahamas to Bermuda 127
AN114 Bahamas to Panama and
Central America 129
· AN113 Bahamas to the Eastern
Caribbean 128
M21 Balearics to French Riviera
453-454
M24 Balearics to Gibraltar
455-456
M23 Balearics to Malta 455
M22 Balearics to Messina Strait
454-455
1S22 Bali to Chagos 407
IS21 Bali' to Christmas Island
406-407
!Tll Bali to Singapore 382-384
1TI2 Bali to Sri Lanka 384-385
.AN125 Bermuda to Azores
138-139
AN122 Bermuda to Canada 136
AN124 Bermuda to Gibraltar
137-138
AN126 Bermuda to Lesser
Antilles 140
AN123 Bermuda to Northern
Europe 137
AN121 Bermuda to USA 135-136
AN127 Bermuda to Virgin
(inalphabeticalorder)
Islands 141
AT22 Brazil to Europe 173-174
AT21 Brazil to Lesser Antilles
172-173
AS22 Brazil to Tristan da Cunha
190
PN16 British Columbia to
California 206
PN14 California to British
Columbia 204-205
PTl 4 California to Galapagos
260-261
PNll California to Hawaii
202-203
PTlS California to Marquesas
261-162
PT! 6 California to Tahiti 262-263
AN56 Canary Islands to Azores
78
AN54 Canary Islands to
Bahamas 76-77
ANSS Canary Islands to
Bermuda 77
AT14 Canary Islands to Brazil
168
AN52 Canary Islands to Cape
Verde Islands 74-75
AN58 Canary Islands to
Gibraltar 79
AN51 Canary Islands to Lesser
Antilles 72-74
AN57 Canary Islands to Madeira
78-79
ATl2 Canary Islands to South
Africa 166
AN53 Canary Islands to West
Africa 75-76
AT26 Cape Horn to Europe
177- 178
AT27 Cape Horn to North
America 178-179
AS14 Cape Town to Brazil 186
AS11 Cape Town to St Helena
183-184
IS64 Cape Town to Western
Australia 428
AN61 Cape Verde Islands to
Azores81
ATIS i;::ape Verde Islands to
Brazil 169
AN62 Cape Verde Islands to
Lesser Antilles 82
PN22 Central America and
Mexico to California 210-212
PN26 Central America and
Mexico to Hawaii 215
PTl 9 Central America to Easter
Island 265
IS37 Chagos to Madagascar
412-413
!TIS Chagos to Maldives 387
IS36 Chagos to Mauritius 412
IS35 Chagos to Seychelles
411-412
IT14 Chagos to Sri Lanka 386
IS34 Christmas Island to Chagos
411
IS31 Christmas Island to Cocos
Keeling 409
S33 Cocos Keeling to Chagos
410-411
IS32 Cocos Keeling to Mauritius ·
409-410
IT13 Cocos Keeling to Sri Lanka
385- 386
AN106 Colombia to Panama 122
IS44 Comoros to East Africa
416-417
IS45 Comoros to Seychelles
417-418
IS46 Comoros to South Africa
418
PT24 Cook Islands to Hawaii
268-269
PS37 Cook Islands to New
Zealand 307
PS35 Cook Islands to Samoa 305
PS36 Cook Islands to Tonga
305-307
M84 Cyprus to Crete 484-485
M81 Cyprus to Israel 482
M85 Cyprus to Malta 485
M82 Cyprus to Port Said 482-483
M83 Cyprus to Rhodes 483-484
M86 Cyprus to Southern Turkey
486
IS13 Darwin to Ambon 402
!Sl 4 Darwin to Bali 402-403
IS15 Darwin to Christmas Island
403-404
I563 Durban to Cape Town·427
I562 Durban to Mauritius 426
IS61 East Africa to Seychelles 425
PSl 7 Easter Island to Magellan
Strait or Cape Hom 291-292
PS15 Easter Island to Pitcairn
289-290
ANll Europe to North America
(northern routes) 39-40
AN12 Europe to North America
(southern routes) 40-41
ATll Europe to South Africa
165-166
AS27 Falkland Islands to South
America 193-194
PS54 Fiji to New Caledonia 321
499
INDEX OF ROUTES (in alphabetical order) .
PS53 Fiji to New Zealand
320-321
P551 Fiji to Samoa 318
P552 Fiji to Tonga 319-320
PS55 Fiji to Vanuatu 321
AN115 Florida to Bermuda 130
AN116 Florida to the Eastern
Caribbean 130-131
M31 French Riviera to Balearics
457
M34 French Riviera to Gibraltar
459-460
M33 French Riviera to Malta
458-459
M32 French Riviera to Messina
Strait 458
P512 Galapagos to Easter Island
287-288
PS13 Galapagos to Gambier
Islands 288
PS11 Galapagos to Marquesas
286-287
PS21 Gambier to Marquesas
293-294
AN38 Gibraltar to Atlantic
Morocco 63-64
AN36 Gibraltar to Azores 60-61
AN32 Gibraltar to Canary
Islands 57-58
AN33 Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles
58
AN31 Gibraltar to Madeira 55-56
M14 Gibraltar to Malta 452
M13 Gibraltar to North Africa
450-451
AN37 Gibraltar to North
America 61-62
AN34 Gibraltar to Northern
Europe59
AN35 Gibraltar to Portugal
59-60
M12 Gibraltar to Sicily 450
Mll Gibraltar to the Balearics
449
M61 Greece to Malta 472-473
M62 Greece to Messina Strait
473-474
PN82 Guam to Carolines 250-251
PN83 Guam to Japan 251-252
PN81 Guam to Palau 250
PN31 Hawaii to Alaska 218-219
PN33 Hawaii to California
220-221
PN34 Hawaii to Central America
and Mexico 221
PN37 Hawaii to Japan 223-224
PN35 Hawaii to Line Islands 222
PT26 Hawaii to Marquesas
270-271
PN36 Hawaii to Marshall Islands
223
PT25 Hawaii to Tahiti 269-270
PN32 Hawaii to the Pacific
500
Northwest 219-220
PN64 Hong Kong to Guam 241
PN63 Hong Kong to Japan
239-240
PN62 Hong Kong to Philippines
239
PN61 Hong Kong to Singapore
237-239
TN31 India to Red Sea 378
M91 Israel to Cyprus 487
M93 Israel to Malta 488
M92 Israel to Port Said 488
AN108 Jamaica to Central
America and Mexico 124
AN107 Jamaica to Panama 123
PN71 Japan to Alaska 243
PN73 Japan to California 245
PN76 Japan to Guam 247-248
PN74 Japan to Hawaii 245-246
PN77 Japan to Hong Kong 248
PN75 Japan to Marshall Islands
246-247
PN72 Japan to Pacific Northwest
244
!Tl 7 Kenya to Red Sea 389-390
!Tl 8 Kenya to Sri Lanka 390-391
PN85 Kiribati to Hawaii 252-253
PT32 Kiribati to Tuvalu 273
AN72 Lesser Antilles to ABC
Islands 87-88
AN79 Lesser Antilles to Azores
95-96
AN76 Lesser Antilles to Bahamas
91-92
AN78 Lesser Antilles to
Bermuda 94-95
ATl 7 Lesser Antilles to Brazil
170-171
AN73 Lesser Antilles to
Colombia 88
AN75 Lesser Antilles to Grea ter
Antilles 90-91
AN77 Lesser Antilles to North
America 92-94
AN74 Lesser Antilles to Panama
89
AN71 Lesser Antilles to
Venezuela 87
PN87 Line Islands to Hawaii 254
AN43 Madeira to Azores 67-68
AN41 Madeira to Canary Islands
65-66
.AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar 69-70
AN42 Madeira to Lesser Antilles
67
AN44 Madeira to Northern
Europe 68
AN45 Madeira to Portugal 68- 69
AS26 Magellan Strait to Falkland
Islands 193
IT21 Maldives to Chagos 392
M54 Malta to Cyprus 469-470
MSl Malta to Gibraltar 466-467
M52 Malta to Greece 467
M55 Malta to Port Said 470-471
M53 Malta to Rhodes 468-489
PT21 Marquesas to Hawaii
266-267
PS24 Marquesas to Nor thern
Cooks296
P523 Marquesas to Tahiti 295
PS22 Marquesas t9 Tuamotus
294-295
PN86 Marshall Islands to Hawaii
253-254
IS55 Mauritius to Comoros 423
IS56 Mauritius to Madagascar
424
IS51 Mauritius to Re union
419-420
1554 Mauritius to Seychelles
422-423
1552 Mauritius to South Africa
420-421
PT18 Mexico and Central
America to Marquesas 264
PN27 Mexico and Central
America to Panama 215-216
PT36 Micronesia to Solomon
Islands 277
PS71 New Caledonia to Fiji
337-338
PS73 New Caledonia to New
South Wales 339
PS72 New Caledonia to New
Zealand 338
,I
/ I
P574 New Caledonia to
Queensland 339-340
PS75 New Caledonia to Torres
Strait 340
PT34 New Guinea to Micronesia
274-275
PT33 New Guinea to Philippines
273-274
PS93 New South Wales to Fiji 352
PS92 New South Wales to New
Caledonia 351
PS91 New South Wales to New
Zealand 350-351
P594 New South Wales to
Vanuatu 353
PS68 New Zealand to Cape Horn
335
PS66 New Zealand to Cook
Islands 333
PS64 New Zealand to Fiji 331
PS63 New Zealand to New
Caledonia 330
PS61 New Zealand to New South
Wales 327- 328
P562 New Zealand to
Queensland 329- 330
PS67 New Zealand to Tahiti 334
PS65 New Zealand to Tonga 332
AN144 North America to Azores
155-157

AN146 North America to
Bahamas 159
AN143 North America to
Bermuda 154-155
AN142 North America to
Mediterranean 154
AN141 North America to
Northern Europe 152-153
AN147 North America to
Panama 160--161
AT13 North America to South
Africa 167
AN145 North America to the
Eastern Caribbean 157-158
PS107 North Queensland to
Darwin 360
PN13 Northbound from
California 204
ANlll Northbound from the
Bahamas and Florida 126-127
AN103 Northbound from
Venezuela and the ABC Islands
119-120
AN19 Northern Europe to
Azores 47-48
AN18 Northern Europe to
Canary Islands 46-47
AN17 Northern Europe to
Madeira 45-46
AN16 Northern Europe to
Mediterranean 44
AN15 Northern Europe to
Portugal 43-44
IN32 Oman to Red Sea 379
PN17 Pacific Northwest to
Hawaii 207
PT! 7 Pacific Northwest to
Marquesas 263
PN84 ealau to Guam 252
PT35 Palau to New Guinea 276
PN24 Panama to Alaska 213-214
PN23 Panama to British
Columbia 212-213
AN91 Panama to Central
America 108-109
PN21 Panama to Central
America and Mexico 209-210
AN97 Panama to Colombia
115-116
PTl2 Panama to Galapagos
-258-259
PN25 Panama to Hawaii 214-215
AN94 Panama to Hispaniola 113
AN93 Panama to Jamaica,
Bahamas and USA 111- 113
AN96 Panama to Lesser Antilles
115
PT13 Panama to Marquesas
259-260
AN92 Panama to the Gulf of
Mexico and Florida 109-111
AN98 Panama to Venezuela and
the ABC Islands 116
. INDEX OF ROUTES
AN95 Panama to Virgin Islands
114
PS86 Papua New Guinea to
Indonesia 349
PS84 Papua New Guinea to
Queensland 347
PS85 Papua New Guinea to
Torres Strait 348
PN54 Philippines to Guam 235
PN52 Philippines to Hong Kong
233
PN53 Philippines to Japan
233-234
PN55 Philippines to Palau
235-236
PN51 Philippines to Singapore
232-233
PS16 Pitcairn to Gambier Islands
290
M73 Port Said to Crete 478-479
M75 Port Said to Cyprus 479-480
M76 Port Said to Israel 480-481
M71 Port Sa.id to Malta 477
M72 Port Sa.id to Messina Strait
478
M74 Port Said to Rhodes 479
RS2 Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden
440-441
RN4 Port Sudan to Suez 436-437
AN24 Portugal to Azores 52-53
AN22 Portugal to Canary Islands
50-51
AN21 Portugal to Gibraltar 49-50
AN23 Portugal to Madeira 51
AN25 Portugal to Northern
Europe53
PS104 Queensland to Fiji 357-358
PS102 Queensland to New
Caledonia 355-356
PS!Ol Queensland to New
Zealand 355
PS106 Queensland to Papua New
Guinea 359
PS105 Queensland to Solomon
Islands 358
PS103 Queensland to Vanuatu
356- 357
IT22 Red Sea to East Africa
392-393
IN34 Red Sea to Maldives 380
1T23 Red Sea to South Indian
Ocean 393-394
IN33 Red Sea to Sri Lanka
379-380
IS53 Reunion to South Africa
421-422
M63 Rhodes to Cyprus 474-475
M65 Rhodes to Malta 475-476
M64 Rhodes to Port Said 475
AN14 Routes across the Bay of
Biscay 42-43
PS42 Samoa to Fiji 310-311
PS44 Samoa to Society Islands
(in alphabetical order)
312
PS41 Samoa to Tonga 309-310
PS43 Samoa to Wallis 311-312
1542 Seychelles to Comoros
415-416
1543 Seychelles to East Africa 416
IS41 Seychelles to Mauritius 414
IT16 Seychelles to Red Sea
388-389
M43 Sicily to Balearics 463-464
M42 Sicily to French Riviera 463
M44 Sicily to Gibraltar 464-465
M41 Sicily to Greece 461-462
M45 Sicily to Port Said 465
PN43 Singapore to Hong Kong
227-229
PN45 Singapore to North Borneo
230
PN44 Singapore to Philippines
229-230
PN41 Singapore to the Gulf of
Siam 226-227
PN42 Singapore to Vietnam 227
IN11 Singapore to Western
Malaysia 366-367
PS31 Society Islands to Cook
Islands 300-301
PS34 Society Islands to New
Zealand 304
PS33 Society Islands to Samoa
303
PS32 Society Islands to Tonga
302- 303
PS81 Solomon Islands to Papua
New Guinea 345
PS83 Solomon Islands to
Queensland 346
PS82 Solomon Islands to Torres
Strait 345-346
AT23 South Africa to Azores
17~175
AT24 South Africa to Lesser
Antilles 175-176
AT25 South Africa to North
America 176-177
PS14 South America to Easter
Island 289
AS24 South America to Falkland
Islands 191 ·
AS25 South America to Magellan
Strait 192-193
AS21 South America to South
Africa 188-189
PN12 Southbound from
California 203-204
AN117 Southbound from Florida
131-133
AN13 Southbound from
Northern Europe 42
PTll Southbound from Panama
256-258 '
IN23 Sri Lanka to India 374- 375
IN24 Sri Lanka to Maldives 375
501
INDEX OF R OUTES (in alphabetical order)
IN22 Sri Lanka to Oman 373-374
IN21 Sri Lanka to Red Sea
372-373
IN25 Sri Lanka to Singapore
375--376
AS12 St Helena to Ascension
184-185
AS13 St Helena to Brazil 185
RSl Suez to Port Sudan 438-439
PS25 Tahiti to Austral Islands
296-297
PS26 Tahiti to Cape Horn or
Magellan Strait 297-298
PT22 Tahiti to Hawaii 267-268
PT23 Tahiti to Panama 268
PN65 Taiwan to Guam 241-242
IN15 Thailand to Singapore
370- 371
1N14 Thailand to Sri Lanka
369-370
PS47 Tonga to Fiji 314-315
PS48 Tonga to New Zealand
315-316
PS46 Tonga to Samoa 313-314
PS45 Tonga to Society Islands 313
IS12 Torres Strait to Bali 4()()-402
ISll Torres Strait to Darwin 400
AS23 Tristan da Cunha to Cape
Town 190
PS57 Tuvalu to Fiji 323-324
PT31 Tuvalu to Kiribati 272
PS58 Tuvalu to Wallis 324
PS76 Vanuatu to New Caledonia
341
PS77 Vanuatu to North
Q~eensland 341-342
PS79 Vanuatu to Solomon ·
Islands 343-344
PS78 Vanuatu to Torres Strait 343
AN89 Virgin Islands to Azores
106
AN85 Virgin Islands to Bahamas
101-102
AN88 Virgin Islands to Bermuda
105
AN86 Virgin Islands to Florida
103
AN82 Virgin Islands to Jamaica
98-99
AN87 . Virgin Islands to North
America 103-104
AN81 Virgin Islands to Panama
97-98
AN83 Virgin Islands to the Gulf
of Mexico 99-100
AN84 Virgin Islands to Turks &
Caicos 101
PS56 Wallis to Fiji 322-323
· PS59 W;illis to Tuvalu 325
AN63 West Africa to Azores
82-83
AT16 West Africa to Brazil
169-170
AN64 West Africa to Lesser
Antilles 83-84
AN65 West Africa to Northern
Brazil and Guyanas 84-85
ISl 7 Western Australia to Bass
Strait 405
IS16 Western Australia to Cocos
Keeling 404-405
IN13 Western Malaysia to Sri
Lanka 368-369
IN12 Western Malaysia to
Thailand 368