QFOM: Aqualung’s XSCAPE Techtextil North America PFAS In Textiles

■ ■

May/June 2021
Founded 1868

Man-Made Fiber Focus

• Technology Developments
• Sustainable Fiber Manufacturing
• Company Profile: Palmetto Synthetics

Sustainability
Center Stage
Forward-Thinking Solutions

Executive
Forum:
Leib Oehmig,
Glen Raven
 August 23-25, 2021
International Trade Fair for
Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

RALEIGH, NC

Accelerating
Technology
Reunite with the industry on the show floor
for three days of education, networking and
business development where the world’s leading
companies in textile innovation will share
their latest products, processes and solutions,
highlighting the industry’s contribution to the
global manufacturing supply chain through
advanced technology.

Visitt www
www.techtextilN
www.techtextilNA.com
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more
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May/June 2021
TextileWorld.com
Founded 1868 A Publication

Features
11 Executive Forum: Corporate Sustainability In Flight
Glen Raven’s CEO Leib Oehmig discusses the company’s first
corporate sustainability report, “Continuing A Pattern Of Good”

14 Techtextil North America 2021 Preview

TTNA returns to Raleigh, N.C., in August for the textile industry’s
first major in-person event since the pandemic shut down.

Man-Made Fiber Focus

ON THE COVER: 16 Man-Made Fiber Technology Solutions
Glen Raven recently issued Technology companies innovate to solve problems for the
its first corporate sustainability man-made fiber industry.
report (CSR), but has long
participated in sustainable 20 Sustainability In Fiber Manufacturing
initiatives. Its RETWEED Innovation, collaboration and a carbon-footprint-focus abound
mid-century modern and in the polymer and fiber industries.
tweed-inspired fabric
collection, created in 24 Company Profile: Palmetto Synthetics
partnership with Richard An advocate of green and sustainable production methods, Palmetto
Frinier and introduced in Synthetics focuses on a range of environmentally-friendly products.
2020, is made using up to
93-percent recycled content.

Photograph courtesy of
Glen Raven Inc.
Knitting/Apparel
26 Textiles And Apparel: Sustainability Center Stage
Textile manufacturers and brands are developing innovative strategies to
make the textile and apparel industry more sustainable.
Departments
4 From The Editor
Dyeing,Printing & Finishing
6 News
8 Yarn Market
30 PFAS: A Textile Perspective
Despite the textile industry’s limited use of PFAS materials,
10 Business & Financial future regulation may impact producers of performance fabrics.
36 People
34 Six Practical Ways To Close The Textile Dyeing Skills Gap
37 Bulletin Board How can the textile dyeing industry collectively combat the
38 Quality Fabric Of The Month current skills crisis?

VOL. 171, No. 3 / TEXTILE WORLD (ISSN 0040-5213) is published bimonthly by Textile Industries Media Group, LLC, PO Box 683155, Marietta, GA
30068, and incorporates Modern Textiles, Textile Industries, Fiber World and Knitting/Apparel magazines, which remain the property of Textile Industries
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From
The Earth Day Spawns Textile
Editor Sustainability Surge
TT his issue of Textile World attempts to
capture the breadth of the textile
industry’s burgeoning focus on
sustainability.
The issue was originally planned as a
man-made fiber industry focus with recent
developments, technology and a company
profile. But as editorial started to take
shape, it became clear that the sustainabil-
ity theme was going to steal the show.
So, editors shifted gears. The industry’s
response to Earth Day, a focus on sustain-
ability initiatives, new green products and
the ever more present corporate sustain-
ability reports became central to the issue.
As one peels back the layers, there is a
lot of activity in the sustainability space.
It appears that consumers and brands are
creating a demand for manufacturers to
pursue greener technologies and manu-
facturing methodologies — and
consumers want to know about them.
It is no longer about a good recycling story,
but about reducing the entire carbon
footprint. And when one thinks about
it, that has real implications. How are
manufacturers powering their operations?
What are the impacts on employees and
the communities within which they work?
What is the lifecycle of the products they
make and how can that be improved?
What is the environmental impact and
how can waste be prevented?
These are all questions to which textile
companies are paying attention.
It also is apparent there is a trend in
forming partnerships. Researchers and
manufacturers, and manufacturers and
brands, seem to find success in aligning their
sustainability focus for maximum impact.
As highlighted in “Sustainability In
Fiber Manufacturing” in this issue, “A
circular economy cannot be achieved by
acting alone,”stressed Angelo Radici,
president of RadiciGroup. “As upstream
players in the supply chain, we have
always tried to share our knowledge of
materials and deliver solutions featuring
both better performance and respect for
the environment. Furthermore, it is also
crucial to find customers who are equally
sensitive to these issues and can become
strategic partners in the development of
innovative and sustainable solutions. With
Macron [an apparel brand with which they
are partnering], we have worked as a team
to create winning sports socks, because
they are made from recycled materials,
using all-Italian technologies, and are the
result of a zero-kilometer, measured and
traceable production and supply chain.”
It's not just with Radici — this trend is
playing out through much of the industry.
Sustainability seems to be a neutral goal
with broad support and a wide array of
proponents.
It is not new in textiles, but the con-
sumer and brand support have taken it to
a place where real and tangible investments
and practices are taking hold. No longer is
it at topic of fringe environmentalists — it
has entered the mainstream.
Sustainability initiatives in textiles face
challenges, but they aren’t happening
in a vacuum. If those achievements are
rewarded by brands and consumers,
that is all the positive motivation
necessary to make sustainability goals
front and center.
James M. Borneman
jborneman@TextileWorld.com
 A Publication
EDITOR IN CHIEF
James M. Borneman

EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Rachael S. Davis

TECHNICAL EDITORS
Dr. Lisa Parillo Chapman
Dr. Peter J. Hauser
Dr. Trevor J. Little
Dr. William Oxenham
Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi
Dr. Abdel-Fattah Seyam
Dr. Andre West

ECONOMICS EDITOR
Robert S. Reichard

YARN MARKET EDITOR

Jim Phillips

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Jim Kaufmann
Stephen M. Warner

INTERNET CONTENT EDITOR

Rachael S. Davis

CIRCULATION MANAGER
Julie K. Brown-Davis

ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER

Denise Buchalter

ART & PRODUCTION MANAGER

Julie K. Brown-Davis

OWNER/PUBLISHER
James M. Borneman

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jdavis@textileworld.com

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Telephone +678-483-6102 | www.TextileWorld.com

Ryzing Technologies
Announces Invest-
ment, New Jobs
Ryzing Technologies
LLC, Staunton,Va., is
expanding its facility with a
$149,000 investment that is
expected to create 31 new
jobs. Ryzing offers textile-
based engineering solu-
tions including engineered
textiles, rigid inflatable
structures and rapid
prototyping. Customers
of the company include
industrial and commercial
clients as well as the U.S.
military, allied forces and
governmental clients. The
company was established
in 2015 after its founders,
Ryan Gundling and
Ryan Long, took part in
Staunton’s Bright Rewired
Business Plan Competition.
The company was awarded
a Phase II Small Business
Innovation Research grant
from the U.S. Army Natick
Soldier Research, Develop-
ment and Engineering
Center in 2017, which
helped the company
develop its adjustable,
reusable platform for expe-
ditionary military shelters.
“Supporting the
growth of Virginia’s small
businesses is a top prior-
ity, and we are thrilled
that the expansion of
Ryzing Technologies will
result in 31 new highly-
skilled positions,”said
Virgina Governor Ralph
Northam.“We commend
the City of Staunton for
fostering an environment
of innovation and
entrepreneurship where
companies like Ryzing
6 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
News
Technologies can develop
pioneering solutions for a
wide range of industries,
including the military.”
“Ryzing Technologies
was started five years
ago in Staunton for two
reasons: the founders
personally saw value for
their families to live in the
area and were confident
the area had the amenities
required to attract the
right talent to grow a
successful business,”
said Ryan Gundling,
Cofounder and CEO of
Ryzing Technologies.“This
has been accurate, and we
have put together an
incredible team. … Virginia
has been an incredible
place to start a business,
and we are excited to be
expanding to create more
jobs for the area.”
Confluent Medical
Invests in
Electrospinning
Confluent Medical
Technologies Inc., Scotts-
dale, Ariz., has made a
strategic investment in
The Electrospinning Co.
Ltd., an England-based
company offering bio-
materials development and
manufacturing services.
Electrospinning has
developed a proprietary
electrospinning process
that has applications in the
structural heart biomedical
market and can attach
biomedical textiles to heart
valve frames in a fully
automated process. This
technology pairs with
Confluent’s nitinol metal
frame and biomedical tex-
Bipartisan Make PPE In America Act
Passed By Committee,
Moves To Senate
The Senate Homeland
Security and Govern-
mental Affairs Committee
recently passed the bipar-
tisan legislation introduced
by U.S Senators Rob
Portman (R-Ohio) and
Gary Peters (D-Mich.) Their
Make PPE In America Act
aims to strengthen the
onshoring of personal
protective equipment (PPE)
in the United States by
requiring federal agencies
to issue long-term contracts
for U.S.-made PPE.
“The ongoing COVID-
19 pandemic has made it
evident that the American
people should not have to
rely so heavily on foreign
countries for personal
protective equipment, and
that’s why we must bring
PPE production back to
our shores,” said Senator
Portman, Ranking Member
of the Senate Homeland
Security and Govern-
mental Affairs Committee.
“When I talk to PPE
manufacturers about
re-shoring this production to
America, the number one
thing I hear about is the
need for long-term con-
tracts. Multi-year contracts
give producers the cer-
tainty to know that their
investment in the United
States will be worth it
tile knowledge to expand
design options for
Confluent’s customers.
“The investment In
Electrospinning reinforces
Confluent’s strategy of
applying materials science
to medtech innovation,”said
because the government
will be there to buy the
PPE they produce.”
“I have long raised
the alarm that our over-
reliance on foreign manu-
facturers for masks, gloves
and medical devices is a
serious national security
concern,” said Senator
Peters, Chairman of the
Senate Homeland Security
and Governmental Affairs
Committee. “Due to
ongoing efforts by the
Biden Administration to
boost PPE production, we
are making progress, but
there is more work to
do. I am pleased this
commonsense legislation,
which will create jobs and
improve our response to
the ongoing and future
pandemics, has advanced
in the Senate and I will
continue fighting for its
passage into law.”
The Washington-based
National Council of Textile
Organizations (NCTO)
thanked the committee
for adopting the act.“This
legislation will incentivize
investment in and the
viability of domestic PPE
manufacturing, ensuring
our nation remains
prepared for future crises,”
said NCTO’s President
and CEO Kim Glas.
Dean Schauer, CEO and
president of Confluent Med-
ical.“This partnership creates
an opportunity for our two
companies to facilitate fur-
ther expansion of innovative
structural heart products on
behalf of our customers. TW

Sustainable Shopping Post Pandemic
After COVID-19, brands and retailers seeking the data to prove their sustainability progress
PP
ost-pandemic life
may find the apparel
industry at a cross-
roads. Sustainability
is top-of-mind for
consumers and it’s not
enough for brands and
retailers to simply set
stewardship goals. The
data has to be there to
prove it. That’s where the
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol,
the standard for more
sustainable cotton comes in.
According to a recent
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
survey, 61% of brands and
retailers believe that the
since pandemic began
there has been increased
consumer demand for
sustainable products. As
companies work towards
delivering more sustainable
options to meet this grow-
ing consumer demand,
findings also show 65%
of respondents agree that
data is important to their
future sustainability goals.
“Sustainability and
transparency are becoming
increasingly more important
in the fashion industry,”
said Dr. Gary Adams,
president of the U.S.
Cotton Trust Protocol.
“Consumers are calling for
reduction in companies’
environmental footprint
and the Trust Protocol
will provide the data
that enables brands and
retailers to measure
against their sustainability
commitments.”
Research also found that
63% of brands and retailers
stated that the pandemic
has had a positive impact
on their proactive invest-
ment in sustainability with
42% putting the focus
on sourcing sustainably
produced raw materials. The
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
underpins and verifies
U.S. cotton’s sustainability
progress through sophisti-
cated data collection and
independent third-party
verification, enabling brands
and retailers around the
world to more confidently
source U.S. cotton.
Over the past 35 years,
U.S. cotton growers have
put real work into the
sustainability of their opera-
tions and the results show.
In that time, they have
used 79% less water and
54% less energy, reduced
greenhouse gas emissions
by 40%, all while reducing
land use by 42%. Conser-
vation growing practices
have further improved soil
health, reducing loss and
erosion by 37% and
increasing soil carbon levels.
Building on decades of
progress, roughly 2/3rds
of U.S. cotton growers
now employ some type of
precision technology for
in-field measurements and
automation to continuously
improve their sustainability.
That is why the Trust
Protocol is committed to
six areas of sustainability
in line with the U.N.
Sustainability Development
Goals including water use,
greenhouse gas emissions,
energy use, soil carbon
and land-use efficiency.
By signing up for the
Trust Protocol, members
will gain access to U.S.
cotton with sustainability
credentials proven via
Field to Market: The
Alliance for Sustainable
Agriculture, measured via
the Fieldprint Calculator
and verified with Control
Union Certifications.
With these commitments,
the U.S. Cotton Trust
Protocol has welcomed
over 300 brand, retailer,
mill and manufacturer
members including Gap
CottonNews
Inc. and its purpose-led
lifestyle brands Old Navy,
Gap, Banana Republic
and Athleta as well as
UK retailers Next Plc. and
Byford. The Trust Protocol
is included on the Textile
Exchange’s list of 36
preferred fibers and mate-
rials that more than 170
participating brands and
retailers can select from as
part of Textile Exchange’s
Material Change Index
program. It is also part of
the Sustainable Apparel
Coalition, the Forum for
the Future Cotton 2040,
and the CottonUp guide.
As more people get
vaccinated across the
world, consumers are
beginning to think about
the ‘new normal’, with
50% of brands and retailers
expecting to see an increase
in customer spending on
sustainable apparel over
the next 12 months. In a
period of ever greater
supply chain scrutiny
and growing demand for
transparency, the U.S.
Cotton Trust Protocol sets
a new standard for more
sustainably grown cotton.
Enroll at TrustUSCotton.org.
Be sure to follow @Trust
USCotton on Twitter and
Instagram, and connect with
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol on
LinkedIn for more updates.
This sponsored content
has been provided by the
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.
Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 7
YarnMarket
Business Leaders Optimistic
By Jim Phillips, Yarn Market Editor
NN early three quarters
of manufacturers
and distributors are
optimistic about
their business prospects in
the next six months,
according to a new industry
report from Sikich LLP, a
global company specializ-
ing in technology-enabled
professional services. Sev-
enty-two percent of
respondents ranked their
level of optimism at a seven
or higher, on a scale of one
to 10, in Sikich’s Industry
Pulse: Manufacturing and
Distribution. The survey
also found that more than
half of manufacturers and
distributors are looking to
expand their workforce in
the next six months.
Sikich’s report is well
in line with the recent opti-
mism shown by spinners
and others in the U.S. tex-
tile industry. “It been a dark
time — especially at the
start,” said one executive
about the global COVID-19
pandemic. “But, beginning
mid-year or so last year,
things began to pick up, and
we were able to salvage
many of our initial goals.
Now, with an ever-increas-
ing number of vaccinations,
Americans are beginning to
get on the move again. And
that has translated into a sig-
nificant uptick in business.
“As the world slowly
opens back up, manufac-
8 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
turers have a lot to look
forward to,” said Jerry
Murphy, partner-in-charge
of Sikich’s manufacturing
and distribution team.
“This past year has show-
cased the resilience of the
manufacturing industry.
From quickly implementing
safety protocols in their
facilities to maintaining
production in a fast-
changing environment,
manufacturers impres-
sively adapted throughout
the past year. Having
navigated a tumultuous
2020, the industry appears
primed for growth.”
High-Tech Textiles
Gain Momentum
Nanotechnology is
among the more notable
advances aimed at creating
new and more diverse
fibers for various uses in
both high-technology
applications and everyday
fabrics. Nanotechnology
deals with dimensions and
tolerances of less than 100
nanometers, especially the
manipulation of individual
atoms and molecules.
Nanotechnology is
being used to impart
certain aspects to natural
fibers, such as anti-
microbial properties, self-
cleaning properties and
enhanced durability. Such
textiles are being increas-
ingly adopted by sectors
such as medical apparel.
Nanotechnology is also
being used to develop
natural alternatives to arti-
ficial fibers. For instance,
graphene-strengthened
natural jute fiber compos-
ites have high strength and
durability. This trend is
expected to have a strong
influence on textile product
mills, especially in North
America and Europe.
In the healthcare indus-
try, fabrics can be created
for use in drug delivery and
the healing of wounds. Silver
nanoparticles, according to
an article by Dr. Priyom
Bose, who holds a Ph.D. in
Plant Biology and Biotech-
nology from the University
of Madras, India, can be
used in products for burn
dressings and scalds. They
can also be used to screen
heart rate, body tempera-
ture and breathing rhythm.
Further, Bose said, nano-
fibers provide a high degree
of resistance to extreme
temperatures, are durable,
embedded with antibacte-
rial properties and can
include multipurpose nano-
sensors. These attributes
make them valuable for
various military applications.
Market research firm
Technavio has recently
released a report on the
“E-textile Market by End-
user and Geography – Fore-
cast and Analysis 2020-2024.”
According to the report,
the electronic textiles
market is poised to grow
by $1.85 billion between
2020-2024, progressing at
a CAGR of over 18 percent
during the forecast period.
The demand for health-
monitoring wearables is
one of the key drivers of
the e-textile market, which
helps vendors improve their
market position. Moreover,
this market report also
provides information on the
competencies and capacities
of the leading vendors
along with the details of the
product they offer. Technavio
says that factors such as
demand for health-moni-
toring wearables will help
companies create strategies
to make the most of future
growth opportunities.
The firm projects that
37 percent of the market’s
growth will originate from
North America during the
forecast period. The United
States and Canada are the
key markets for the e-textile
market in North America.
The E-textile market’s
growth in this region can
be attributed to the rising
number of lifestyle diseases.
According to the company
key market drivers are high
demand for health-moni-
toring wearables, the rising
number of lifestyle diseases
and increased awareness of
healthy lifestyle. TW
 Color 41, Leaf 4, Staple 34, Mike 35-36 and 43-49, Strength 27.0-28.9, Uniformity 81.0-81.9
COTTON FIBER CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO
(BASE GRADE) Spot Market, ¢/lb. 84.03 68.19 52.80

Ring-Spun 100% Carded Cotton Open-End Spun 100% Carded Cotton

YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO
10/1 2.01 1.83 1.70 4/1 1.18 1.10 1.00
CARDED 18/1 2.04 1.95 1.81 10/1 1.23 1.13 1.01
COTTON 24/1 2.21 2.00 1.86 16/1 1.28 1.29 1.18
30/1 2.22 2.10 1.93 18/1 1.34 1.35 1.23
12/2 2.58 2.42 2.28 20/1 1.43 1.37 1.25
20/2 2.65 2.61 2.46

Ring-Spun 100% Combed Cotton Ring-Spun 50/50% Polyester/Combed Cotton

YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO
COMBED 18/1 2.74 2.78 2.63 20/1 2.25 1.97 1.79
COTTON 26/1 2.82 2.86 2.71 30/1 2.31 2.04 1.86
30/1 3.11 3.11 2.96
38/1 3.18 3.19 3.04

Ring-Spun 50/50% Polyester/Carded Cotton Open-End Spun 50/50% Polyester/Carded Cotton

YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO
POLYESTER/ 20/1 2.10 1.97 1.79 12/1 1.04 1.04 0.96
CARDED 30/1 2.17 2.04 1.86 14/1 1.17 1.16 1.08
COTTON
18/1 1.37 1.26 1.18
24/1 1.41 1.30 1.22
28/1 1.50 1.40 1.32

Open-End Spun 100% Acrylic (worsted count) Open-End Spun 100% 1.2 Denier Rayon
YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO
1/12 3.10 3.10 3.03 20/1 4.56 4.56 4.52
ACRYLIC &
1/18 3.15 3.15 3.07 30/1 4.79 4.79 4.74
RAYON
1/24 3.22 3.22 3.13
1/28 3.27 3.27 3.19
1/32 3.48 3.48 3.40

Ring-Spun 100% Polyester (whites only) Ring-Spun 100% Polyester (dyed)

YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO
SPUN 8/1 2.19 2.16 2.13 8/1 3.30 3.25 3.20
POLYESTER 16/1 2.31 2.28 2.25 16/1 3.51 3.46 3.41
20/1 2.44 2.41 2.39 20/1 3.56 3.51 3.45
22/1 2.54 2.51 2.48 22/1 3.64 3.59 3.55
30/1 2.92 2.89 2.85 30/1 4.01 3.95 3.92

Textured Nylon Filament Polyester Partially Oriented Yarn (POY)

YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO
70/2 3.45 3.45 3.38 70 denier 2.20 2.20 2.09
100/2 3.58 3.58 3.51 100 denier 2.14 2.14 2.03
150 denier 2.08 2.08 1.97
MAN-MADE
FIBERS/ Textured Polyester (knits) Man-Made Staple Fiber
FILAMENTS
YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO YARN TYPE CURRENT 6 MO. AGO 1 YR. AGO
70 denier (dyeable) 1.96 1.96 1.96 Polyester (1.5 denier) 2.22-2.36 2.22-2.36 2.18-2.32
70 denier (whites) 1.88 1.88 1.88 Acrylic (3.0 denier) 2.08-2.24 2.08-2.24 2.02-2.16
100 denier 1.67 1.67 1.67
(dyeable or whites)
150 den. (dyeable) 1.62 1.62 1.62
150 den. (whites) 1.58 1.58 1.58

All yarn prices in U.S. dollars per pound & asking prices only. Prices compiled from 5/7/21 See TextileWorld.com for archived Yarn Market data.

Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 9

Business & Financial

Textile Activity At A Glance

By Robert S. Reichard, Economics Editor

DEMAND *Latest Previous Year Ago PRICES (BLS,1982=100) *Latest Previous Year Ago
PRODUCTION (Federal Reser ve Board [FRB], 2012=100) Man-made fibers 132.0 129.2 127.7
Textile mill 91.6 89.8 94.5 Processed yarn & threads 148.8 146.4 138.0
Textile product mill 100.3 98.2 92.0 Greige goods 140.0 138.0 138.5
Apparel 58.4 55.1 52.8 Finished fabrics 169.7 166.9 160.9
MANUFACTURING SALES (Dept. of Commerce [DOC], millions) Home furnishings 163.3 161.9 168.4
Carpet 177.5 179.5 177.3
Textile mill $2,287 $2,326 $2,256
Apparel 144.3 144.2 145.3
Textile product mill $1,902 $1,943 $1,909
Apparel
Apparel retail
$900
$22,862
$917
$19,333
$897
$11,368
INTERNATIONAL TRADE
TEXTILE & APPAREL (DOC, millions)

SUPPLY Imports
Exports
$7,623
$1,639
$7,957
$1,667
$7,801
$2,009
CAPACITY (FRB, 2012=100)
Trade Deficit $5,984 $6,290 $5,792
Textile mill 92.9 93.0 93.5
IMPORT PRICE
Apparel 61.0 61.3 64.9
Textile mill
OPERATING RATE (FRB, 2012=100) (BLS, 2011=100) 102.4 101.9 97.8
Textile product mill
Textile mill 68.1 66.7 66.1 (BLS, 2005=100) 107.0 106.8 107.0
Apparel 67.6 65.8 59.6
STOCK/SALES RATIO (DOC) EMPLOYMENT (BLS, thousands)
Textile mill 1.34 1.32 1.42
Textile mill 96.8 94.0 104.0
Textile product mill 1.88 1.88 1.57
Textile product mill 106.7 106.7 110.0
Apparel 94.1 92.7 103.0
COSTS
Cotton (cents/lb) 82.9 84.3 50.8 PROFITS (census, millions per quarter)

HOURLY EARNINGS (Bureau of Labor Statistics [BLS], $/h) Textile $745 $757 $393
Textile mill $22.43 $22.58 $21.55 Apparel $2,631 $2,922 $3,440
Textile product mill $21.81 $21.94 $21.20 MARGINS (census, quarterly per $ of sales)
Apparel $21.29 $21.23 $22.08 Textile 8.0 8.4 4.4
Apparel 12.7 15.3 15.6
PRICE INDEXES (December 2003=100)

142 MACROECONOMIC FACTORS *Latest Previous Year Ago

141 Unemployment Rate (BLS) 6.0 6.2 4.4
140 Disposable income
(DOC, billions) $17,260 $17,662 $16,540
139 Housing starts
(DOC, thousands) 1,739 1,457 1,269
138 Textile Product
Mills Price Index
` Consumer Price Index
137 (BLS, 1982-84=100) 264.9 263.0 258.1
Textile Mills Producer Price Index, all
136 Price Index (BLS, 1982=100) 216.3 208.5 193.1
135 AGGREGATE (FRB)
134 Factory utilization rate 74.4 72.4 71.9
A M J J A S O N D J F M A Industrial production (2012=100) 105.6 104.1 104.5
2020 2021 Production capacity (2012=100) 104.9 104.8 105.2
December – March = preliminary April = estimated * all figures are for the latest available month as of TW’s press time,
except for profits where only quarterly data are available.

10 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com

ExecutiveForum
Corporate Sustainability
In Flight
Glen Raven’s CEO Leib Oehmig discusses
the company’s first corporate sustainability
report, “Continuing A Pattern Of Good”
FF
ounded in 1880,
Glen Raven Inc.,
Glen Raven, N.C., has
grown from its cotton
mill beginnings to a global
performance textile leader
offering branded fabrics
including Sunbrella®,
Dickson®, GlenGuard®,
and Strata®. The company’s
three divisions — Glen
Raven Custom Fabrics,
Glen Raven Technical
Fabrics and Trivantage® —
bring a wide variety of
upholstery, marine, techni-
cal shading, automotive,
military, geotextile and
protective workwear prod-
ucts to the marketplace.
Today, Glen Raven is
global with locations in
23 countries and sales in
more than 120 countries.
The company recently
issued its first Corporate
Sustainability Report
(CSR), titled “Continuing
A Pattern Of Good.”
“As the world evolves,
we feel it is important to
be more transparent about
our actions, acknowledge
the work we’ve done and
continue to challenge
ourselves to be an even
stronger champion of sus-
tainability,”Glen Raven’s
TW Special Report
CEO Leib Oehmig said
about the CSR.“We owe
it to future generations to
continue to be a business
that demonstrates success
while contributing to the
greater good of our planet.”
The report establishes
baseline metrics across two
foundational pillars:
• Pillar 1 – Supporting
Our People and
Communities; and
• Pillar 2 – Sustaining
Our Planet
Each pillar focuses on
four key areas — associ-
ates, communities, envi-
ronmental impact and
circular economy.
Textile World recently
had the opportunity to
speak with Oehmig about
Glen Raven’s first CSR.
TW: What prompted GR
to issue a report this year?
Oehmig: If you know
Glen Raven well, you know
this is not something that
we have felt compelled to
do. Glen Raven doesn’t seek
publicity or seek credit for
the work we do. We’re really
about the work and doing
the right thing for all of our
stakeholders, whether that
is our customers, associates
Glen Raven CEO
Leib Oehmig
or suppliers. But our stake-
holders now want to know.
They want us to be more
transparent and want us
to hold ourselves more
accountable. Glen Raven
is clearly interested in this
because it will make us a
better company.
TW: In reviewing Glen
Raven’s Corporate Sustain-
ability Report, it is clearly
both detailed and compre-
hensive with a high level
of employee involvement.
Is there a financial metric
that comes into play with
selecting which programs
will be implemented and
on what timelines?
Oehmig: At Glen
Raven, one of the privileges
we have as a privately-held
company is that we can
take a long-term view.
Financial metrics are not
top of mind when we start
thinking about how we’re
going to impact all the
communities that we
serve, our customers, or
our employees. What we
do believe, is that if we stay
true to our values and we
do the things that are right
for all of our stakeholders,
business success will follow.
These things are so
equally important to us —
built around leadership
and safety and volun-
teerism, and certainly
sustainability — and we
will find a way to bring
things along together.
This is a journey, but we
want to have a high level
of urgency surrounding
all of the goals.
TW: Glen Raven is
known for innovation and
is a past recipient of the
Textile World Innovation
Award. What technology
advances do you see
having the greatest
impact on the company’s
sustainability goals?
Oehmig: Equipment
manufacturers are making
investments and they are
thinking about the same
things that we are. We work
hand-in-hand with them
and have partnerships with
our suppliers — and I’m
not speaking just for textile
processing, but all things
related to our broader
textile manufacturing pro-
cesses — and are working
together on how to make
the process more efficient,
create less waste and
Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 11
ExecutiveForum
Sunbrella’s RETWEED Collection, which is made using up to
93-percent recycled content, is liked by customers for its
unique characteristics.
consume less energy. Even
in our building construc-
tion. Our last major green-
field project, which was our
distribution center — and
people generally don’t
think much about a
distribution center and a
warehouse — but it was
important to us that that
project be LEED [Leader-
12 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
The “Recycle My
Sunbrella” program
will reach 1 million
pounds of recycled
material in 2021.
ship in Energy and Envi-
ronmental Design] certified.
We keep that top of mind in
everything that we do, and
for our projects going for-
ward, we’ll continue to
work hand-in-hand with
our contractors, system
providers and all of our
equipment providers to
make sure that we are
leading in terms of the
equipment we are deploying.
I also want to say that a
large part of our focus over
the past decade has been
on reducing waste and
reducing waste streams
with a goal of having all of
our global operations pro-
ducing no waste that ends
up in a landfill. We’re still
on that journey, but we are
very close. Part of that is
reducing the materials that
we use and also providing
other applications and
creating other products to
utilize those waste streams.
Through some innova-
tion, new technology and
our design work, we’ve
been able to take these
waste streams and create
beautiful products from
them. In 2020, we
launched our RETWEED
Collection, which is part
of our Renaissance fabric
program that began in
2008. And it’s interesting
—we wanted to be able to
utilize our waste streams
and have products that
were created with a high
level of recycled content
and we thought it was
something that would
really resonate with our
customer base, which it
did. But what was also
interesting was the design
elements that resulted
[The composition of Renais-
sance yarns results in the
occasional natural variation
in shade or specks of
color that add to the visual
interest of the fabric].
People were choosing
those products as much for
the aesthetic value as they
were for the environmental
consciousness that went
into creating them.
In 2009, we created the
Recycle My Sunbrella
program. To date, we have
processed nearly 1 million
pounds of waste into new
products through this
program. We want to dou-
ble that utilization by 2025.
We have such momentum
and are very comfortable
with that goal. But the point
is, all of this is something
that we have been focused
on for well over a decade
now as it relates to these
recycled waste streams,
which goes into this
broader picture of “How do
we become less impactful
on the environments in
which we operate?”
TW: Merit, opportunity
and inclusion have always
been central to Glen Raven’s
culture. How can you
ensure the diversity goals
continue to support these
tenets?
Oehmig: If you look
at Glen Raven’s ethos,
something fundamental to
us is a heart for people. We
believe having a different
point of view and bringing
all those viewpoints
together makes you better.
And we’ve learned that in
many ways, but definitely
through globalization. As
the company has created a
global footprint and really
embraced the cultures and
communities in which we
operate, we have seen the
value that is created when
you bring different points
of view together with a
single-minded focus on
pushing the business
forward and continuing to
do good things. We want
to elevate that and expand
that idea. Diversity is
something that we haven’t
always thought about in
terms of just diversity. We
thought about it in terms
of “How do we bring a
group of people together
with a range of life experi-
ences, a range of work
experiences and a range of
points of view all based in
what is foundational to
Glen Raven’s values so we
can work together and
create something special?”
We have seen the benefits
of that throughout the
company’s history, and
we want to elevate and
accelerate that. We felt like
making our goals around
diversity and inclusion
more transparent will not
only challenge us, but will
also hold us accountable
for achieving those goals
and exceeding them.
TW: Many of the
sustainability initiatives
set 2025 as the targeted
timeline. Is this aggressive,
or representative of the
current level of momentum
and progress?
Oehmig: We’ve had so
many of these practices
in place throughout
Glen Raven’s history
and definitely have great
momentum around these
initiatives. Most of the
efforts are already in flight
and have been in flight for
a long time. So now it’s
just driving a stake in the
ground and holding the
company accountable to
not only those goals, but
really to exceed those
goals. And Glen Raven is
perfectly comfortable with
the timeline, and we’re
confident we will exceed
the goals that we have
established.
TW: How does sustain-
ability impact Glen
Raven’s multi-phase,
global expansion plan?
Oehmig: To the extent
that the sustainability
report would impact our
capital investment plans,
it really is just informing
those plans. When our
engineers are meeting
contractors, and our manu-
facturing engineers are
meeting with the equip-
ment manufacturers, we’re
talking through these same
opportunities in their
development and asking
what we can do differently
and what can we do to
lean in and do to really
push technology in sup-
port of our sustainability
reporting. Our partners
have been very supportive.
Everybody has a role in this
whatever position you play
in the total value chain.
It’s going to take all of us
working together in order
to have the greatest impact
both in the communities
and on the planet.
TW: How do you see
Glen Raven’s position in
the industry as it relates to
corporate responsibility?
Oehmig: If a company
like Glen Raven is leading
a collaborative effort and
working with our equip-
ment manufacturers and
our raw material suppliers
and informing and educat-
ing and trying to create
new innovations that may
address many of the issues
we are facing, that’s a
position we’d like to be in.
We all have our intellec-
tual property that we seek
to protect. But at some
point, you have to find a
balance. We have people in
this industry who are very
talented and we’ve got to
figure out a way to work
together to have a positive
impact on the future. TW
TECHTEXTIL NORTH AMERICA
PREVIEW
TTNA Returns
In-Person
Techtextil North America returns to Raleigh, N.C., August 23-25,
2021, for the textile industry’s first major in-person event since
the pandemic shut down.
FF
TW Special Report
or many in the textile industry,
Techtextil North America (TTNA)
has been a staple for meeting old
friends, networking with mem-
bers of the industry and exploring the
latest innovations in the technical tex-
tiles space. Event organizers Atlanta-
based Messe Frankfurt North America
are looking forward to “reuniting the
industry for three days of networking,
education, and business develop-
ment,” when the show returns to
Raleigh, N.C., August 23-25, 2021.
“We have received so many posi-
tive and hopeful messages from both
exhibiting and visiting companies
about the upcoming show in
August,” said Kristy Meade, show
director for Techtextil North America
and group show director at Messe
Frankfurt North America. “After such
a tough year, we’re really looking
14 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
forward to getting back to business,
starting with reuniting the industry
on the show floor.”
Adding Pavilions
Aside from the latest innovations
and supply chain solutions for the
technical textiles industry including
high-tech fibers, functional apparel
fabrics, smart textiles, composites and
nonwovens, TTNA is adding two new
pavilions. The 2021 edition of the
show will include the first-ever Tex-
process Americas pavilion, supported
by The Sewn Products Equipment &
Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA).
The pavilion — featuring manufac-
turers and distributors of machinery,
equipment, parts, supplies, systems,
technology, supply chain solutions,
and other products and services used
for the development of sewn prod-
ucts — is designed to foster new
business opportunities and strategic
partnerships between exhibitors and
attendees. Leaders from across the
industry will be given the chance to
meet, learn, and see equipment func-
tionality firsthand.
According to the Messe Frankfurt,
SPESA also will once again collocate
its Advancements in Manufacturing
Technologies Conference with Tech-
textil North America in 2021. The
conference features presentations
and panel discussions from SPESA
members about the products they
make, as well as the challenges they
face as they aim to improve effi-
ciency, speed, and accuracy in sewn
products manufacturing.
Textile Care
The second new pavilion is the
Textile Care Pavilion, powered by the
Clean Show. This area will showcase
the latest products and technologies
for the textile care sector from treat-
ment to finishing to after-market
care. The Textile Care Pavilion aims
to include innovative products and
services in:
• Washing, drying equipment;
• Water technology, utilities, energy
saving;
• Green product technology;
• Agents and systems for the clean-
ing, finishing and disinfection of
textiles; and
• Logistics and material flow.
Accelerating Technology
Focus
The Techtextil North America
Symposium is dedicated to showcas-
ing advancements in research and
technology for the textile industry,
highlighting the latest trends and
innovations, with a focus on sustain-
able textile practices. Attendees will
have the opportunity to expand their
expertise and gain a competitive
edge throughout seven presentation
and panel-style sessions, where
industry leaders and subject matter
experts will cover the hottest topics
around the post-pandemic supply
chain — exploring lessons learned,
adaptations made, and future-oriented insights on the
industry as a whole. Session content this year will also
touch on topics related to the expanded product groups
brought by the Texprocess Americas Pavilion and Textile
Care Pavilion.
Symposium topics include:
• Reinventing and Reimaging the Supply Chain ;
• Digital Transformation Strategy;
• Government Policies and Regulations;
• Sustainability in Laundering and Textile Care;
• Circular Economy;
• Fabric and Materials ID; and
• Nonwovens & PPE.

The Academy
New this year will be a show floor feature called The
Academy, which combines Tech Talks and The Lab Ses-
sions hosted at previous shows. According to the Messe
Frankfurt, throughout the three-day event, The Academy
will feature a lineup of mini-sessions, demonstrations,
and panel-style discussions covering groundbreaking
technical advancements and highlight the latest in textile
testing for applications across industries. There also will
be a Student Research Poster Program on the show floor
featuring both undergraduate and graduate level
research and textile innovations. Up-to-date schedules
and full speaker lineup for all show floor features will be
announced exclusively via the Techtextil North America
2021 mobile app, which will be available for download
later this summer.

Reduced Pricing Through June 18, 2021

Visitors to Techtextil North America can register to
attend and purchase exhibit hall badges and symposium
passes online. Messe Frankfurt is offering reduced pricing
for advanced registration until June 18, 2021.

A New Start
As the COVID-19 restrictions wane and vaccinations
take hold, TTNA is just the medicine needed to return to
a level of normalcy in the industry. Last March, the
industry was poised to meet in Atlanta for TTNA when
the pandemic took hold cancelling all in-person oppor-
tunities. The industry has not been in hibernation — far
from it — and the mobilization to attack the personal
protective equipment shortages was immense. Now, as a
new normal sets in, what was missing is the feeling of
community, interaction among colleagues and the ability
to stumble upon new and interesting ideas. For the edi-
tors of Textile World, that is what always seems to hap-
pen at TTNA and it’s an opportunity to see the industry
in person. TW

For more information about Techtextil North America 2021,

including the full pricing structure and deadlines, visit
techtextilna.com; or register now bit.ly/33stddX.
FIBER WORLD
Man-Made Fiber
Technology Solutions
Technology companies innovate to solve problems for the
man-made fiber industry.
TT
TW Special Report
he origins of the man-made fiber
industry go back as far as the
1800s. But famously, it was the
discovery of nylon by DuPont
chemist W.H. Carothers almost 90
years ago that truly launched the
industry. Polyester soon followed
nylon; and in the years since those
early discoveries, many more man-
made polymers have been developed.
There are lots of processes for turning
these polymers into a useable fiber
form, as well as downstream pro-
cesses for imparting desired fiber
properties. Man-made fiber technol-
ogy companies continuously work to
16 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
innovate for the sector, reacting to
industry trends and needs.
Read on to learn about some of
the latest technologies developed for
the man-made fiber market.
Spinning Plants, Lines
Italy-based 4M Plants S.r.l. offers
multifilament spinning plants
designed for maximum flexibility and
ergonomics. Its compact spinning
lines are suitable for polyester and
polypropylene (PP) continuous mul-
tifilament partially-oriented, fully-
drawn and high-tenacity yarns. The
OMNIA series offers fast installation
Trützschler Man-Made Fibers’ MO40-C
BCF filament yarn extrusion system
and parameter setup to maximize
return on investment and reduce
production costs even on small lots.
4M reports its “plug, run and earn”
claim is its standard and not merely
marketing. The smallest standard
Omnia may be installed and entered
into production within one day.
4M’s standard spinning machine
is a single-sided plant with a single
extruder up to 60/30 and from 2 to 6
spinnerets. 4M also offers the Mirror
spinning machine — a double-sided
machine featuring multiple extruders
up to 90/30 and up to 6+6 spinnerets.
All plants are fully customizable
and are equipped with intuitive soft-
ware with a touch-screen interface.
4M builds and tests each machine for
at least week under production con-
ditions before delivering the technol-
ogy to its customers.
In order to accelerate its expan-
sion strategy in the polymer
processing market with comple-
mentary offerings, Switzerland-
based Oerlikon recently entered
into an agreement to acquire Italy-
based INglass S.p.A., a producer of
high-precision polymer flow control
equipment. Once the transaction is
complete, the company will rename
the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers divi-
sion — comprised of the Oerlikon
Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and
Oerlikon Nonwoven brands in
addition to INglass — the Polymer
Processing Solutions division. This
division will be further divided into
two business units: Flow Control
Solutions, which will combine Oer-
likon Barmag’s gear metering pumps
business with INglass’ HRSflow
operations; and Manmade Fiber
Solutions, which will continue its
focus on plant and engineering solu-
tions for polyester, PP and nylon
production. The deal is expected to
close in the second quarter of 2021.
“We see great potential for growth
in our new Flow Control Solutions
business unit,” said Georg Stausberg,
Polymer Processing Solutions Divi-
sion CEO and member of the execu-
tive committee of the Oerlikon
Group. “The businesses form the two
core growth pillars and benefit from
each other in global market develop-
ment, in modern and digitized pro-
duction, and in customer services. We
also see potential synergies in R&D
by combining existing know-how in
the field of polymer processing.”
Since ITMA — when Oerlikon
debuted the compact eAFK Evo tex-
turing machine developed in con-
junction with Unifi Inc., which
features a very short twisting zone
and EvoCooler cooling component —
the company has introduced updated
AS H 32 and AS H 38 yarn suction
devices/hand injectors, which are
standard components on all spinning
positions. The devices offer the same
yarn tension using lower compressed
air consumption, an ergonomic com-
pressed air valve and the ability to
make finer adjustments to the yarn
suction force in applications needing
a high suction performance. Oerlikon
reports the devices have been in
operation for some months in several
pilot projects — a tape yarn system
located in the United States and in a
bulk continuous filament (BCF) yarn
application in Europe.
Germany-based Trützschler
Man-Made Fibers recently intro-
duced the MO40-E four-thread
extrusion system — a flexible solu-
tion for spinning both standard and
high count BCF carpet yarns using
polyethylene terephthalate (PET),
nylon or PP. The machine is a sib-
ling of the MO40-C BCF extrusion
system introduced at ITMA 2019
and part of its Optima family of
compact spinning solutions offering
high production output per square
meter of floor space.
The MO40-E was designed for
high count yarns with the smallest
single filament titres to meet the
demand for smooth, velvety surfaces
in carpet production. The MO40-E
increases the maximum number of
individual filaments by 50 percent up
to 750 filaments. A widened quench-
ing cabinet ensures cool process air
evenly reaches all individual fila-
ments so still hot and soft filaments
do not stick together after exiting the
larger spinnerets.
In addition to the niche high-
count yarns, the MO40-E can pro-
duce standard BCF yarns with titres
of 3 denier per filament or more. Its
working window ranges from 500 to
7,000 dTex. For standard production,
an adapter allows a standard spin
pack to be inserted into the spin
beam. Four ends can be spun and
wound simultaneously on bobbins.
Trützschler reports it soon will
grow the Optima family with the
TO40, a tri-color BCF extrusion sys-
tem currently in development. This
TO40 integrates smartFLEX compo-
nents into the Optima platform to
simultaneously process three differ-
ent colors of polymer chips for tri-
color yarns to be used in mélange
and contemporary sprinkled carpets.
Spinning Components
Switzerland-based Retech AG is
a specialist in components and godet
rolls for heating and drawing man-
made fibers, as well as yarn tension
monitoring devices. The company
recently introduced two new godet
rolls — the Ø 250 mm model devel-
oped for technical yarns, and the Ø
320 mm model designed for high-
performance fibers such as aramids.
The Ø 250 mm godet roll features
an ideal yarn length of 420 millimeters
(mm) for processing eight or 12
threads at a time. According to
Retech, the extended 250-mm-diam-
eter allows for higher speed with the
same dwell time — with speeds of up
to 6,500 meters per minute (m/min)
possible while applying a torque value
of 15Nm through the full speed range.
The godet roll reaches a temperature
of 250°C with a temperature profile of
± 1.5°C over the working width of the
roll. According to the company, these
upgrades make it possible to process a
wider range of yarn counts compared
to its predecessor, the Ø 220 Series.
The Ø 320 mm model features
various lengths that are ideal for ser-
pentine yarn paths to multi-enlace-
Retech’s Ø 320 mm model godet roll fea-
tures an extended dwell time for optimal
processing of performance yarns.
ment, but suit practically all machine
types and yarn paths, according to
Retech. To allow optimal processing
of high-performance yarns, the godet
roll features an extended dwell time,
influenced by speed and diameter, to
optimize heat entry into the yarn.
The roll offers temperatures of up to
400°C, torque values of 35 Nm, and
speeds of up to 1,500 m/min.
According to Retech, yarn manufac-
turers can be secretive about applica-
tions and new product developments,
so it can be difficult to determine exact
characteristics and requirements driven
by the industry. “Comparing required
customized solutions shows us trends
regarding the market demand for
godet rolls,” said Ralph von Arx,
Retech CEO. “It becomes our ambition
to innovate the one godet roll meeting
these latest customer needs. We con-
tinuously touch today’s technical limits
and stretch to tomorrow’s possibilities
when developing. We take the risk,
and try to optimize at the edge.”
Recycling post-consumer PET
plastic bottles into new fibers is a
well-established process. However,
the processes used to recycle such
materials don’t effectively handle
other post-consumer PET sources,
such as post-industrial fiber waste
without implementing additional pro-
cesses downstream from the extruder
to resolve unacceptable mechanical
properties. Germany-based Gneuss
Kunstsofftechnik GmbH attempts
to solve this problem with the Gneuss
MRS jump extruder for PET, which
offers decontamination performance
and intrinsic viscosity (IV) control in
Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 17

Schwing Fluid Technik GmbH recently expanded its VacuClean range of spinneret and
Above left: Saurer Fibrevision’s FibreTQS for ATY Control in air-textured yarn processes.
Above right: BB Engineering’s Visco+ is offered with its VacuFil recycling system or as
an upgrade to existing systems.
one step. According to the company,
the decontamination performance of
its MRS PET extruder has been
enhanced with an increased surface
exchange rate under vacuum so that
partial polycondensation takes place
within the extruder maintaining the
input IV. The MRS jump also can
maintain the inevitable residual mois-
ture level variations of the input
material by controlling the long res-
idence time of the polymer under
vacuum and the intense devolati-
zation. Materials do not need to be
pretreated and there is no addi-
tional melt or solid phase
IV boosting process
needed post-extru-
sion. Gneuss reports
the advantages of the
MRS jump include the
possibility to recycle
previously unrecyclable
materials, improved material
quality, greater flexibility, smaller
machine footprint, lower energy con-
sumption and more simple operation.
18 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
filter cleaning systems
Germany-based BB Engineering
was established more than two
decades ago as a joint venture
between Oerlikon Barmag and
Brückner Group GmbH. The com-
pany specializes in construction,
engineering and production of
machine components and
complete systems for films
and yarn. The company
recently added the Visco+
vacuum filter for
targeted IV setting
to its melt filter
The MRSjump
from Gneuss offers
decontamination and intrinsic
viscosity control in one step.
portfolio. The large area vacuum fil-
ter was designed to produce a
homogenous, pure melt when pro-
cessing PET production waste, but
also offers a homogenous viscosity
when using virgin raw materials.
Visco+ is part of BB Engineering’s
VacuFil recycling system, but also
now is offered as a separate and eas-
ily integrated upgrade to existing sys-
tems. In addition to decontamination,
the Visco+ offers IV homogenization
if an existing production system is
struggling with fluctuations, as well
as IV increases without the negative
impacts associated with long resi-
dence times. The Visco+ operates like
a liquid-state polycondensation unit,
and BB Engineering reports a unique
patented process “enables fast and
flexibly-controllable viscosity build up
and reliable viscosity monitoring of
the polyester melt.” Contamination is
effectively removed from the starting
material using an automatically regu-
lated high-performance vacuum that
operates between 1 and 30 mbar.
Testing Instruments
For Man-Made Fibers
England-based Saurer Fibrevision
Ltd. — represented in the United
States by Fi-Tech Inc., Richmond,
Va. — offers the Fibrevision FibreTQS
for ATY Control. This advanced qual-
ity monitoring system offers total
control for the air textured yarn
(ATY) process using a single optical
sensor to measure a range of param-
eters including bulk diameter and
denier variation. FibreTQS character-
izes the core and loop structure of the
yarn in order to assess quality; as well
as short-term variation in the yarn
profile to identify general process
instability, slubs or thin places
that can result from jet contami-
nation. The FibreTQS both
improves the quality of first-
grade yarns and also results in
a lower percentage of second
quality packages and reject yarn by
identifying steady state bulk or texture
faults that are a major cause of down-
stream processing problems usually
only identified by knit and dye tests.
 Data from the sensors shares quality fault and sum-
mary data distributed in sections with the FibreTQS PC
software, which stores data for each package produced
and can generate user-friendly reports.
Greenville, S.C.-based Measured Solutions Inc.
represents suppliers of spinnerets, spinneret cleaning
equipment and inspection systems, and testing instru-
ments. The company offers its services — including
sales, service and ISO calibrations — to the fiber and
yarn industry in North America, Central America and
parts of South America.
Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG, Ger-
many, represented by Measured Solutions, has introduced
the MDTA4 — the latest generation of its micro dust and
trash analyzer for cotton or man-made fibers including
recycled fibers. The instrument measures fiber length,
diameter, neps, fiber to metal cohesion, and fiber to fiber
cohesion, among other properties. The tester also can pro-
duce a sliver for further testing or sample yarn spinning.
Textechno also offers the COVAMAT automatic capacitive
evenness tester for filament yarn. Covamat features an
integrated 24-position automatic package changer. Tex-
techno also recently updated all its instruments — includ-
ing the Statimat, Dynafil, Texturmat, Favimat+ and Covafil
—to the latest Windows 10 operating system.
Germany-based Schwing Fluid Technik GmbH, also
represented by Measured Solutions, has expanded its
VacuClean range of spinneret and filter cleaning systems.
The new units include a smaller Compact VacuClean,
and larger vertical systems to clean candle filters.
Another company represented by Measured Solu-
tions, New York City-based Aspex Inc., is the maker of
the SpinTrak™ System — a fully automatic spinneret
inspection system. The SpinTrak recently was updated
with new Windows 10 software and offers a new Multi-
Scan multiple hole inspection feature for staple fiber
applications.
In addition, Zurich-based Rothschild Instruments,
represented by Measured Solutions, recently launched Compact design
for a competitive
the MEMO-TENS R-3010 — a small, light, portable elec-
tronic tensiometer. This new concept for yarn tension
measurements on multiple yarn production machines is
suitable for fast data acquisition in the whole plant,
according to the company. The company’s previous ten-
performance
siometers were comprised of three components — mea-
suring electrode, electronic tensiometer, and a PC or
laptop — that had to be moved in a plant using a trolley Made in Italy
and required access to an electric power source. The new
tensiometer, on the other hand, features miniaturized
electronics that allows all parts to be combined in one
compact head measuring 30 x 160 mm and weighing 220
grams. The MEMO-TENS R-3010 plus a lightweight
tablet are easily carried around the manufacturing plant
to record measurements as needed. The instrument has a
measuring range of 0 to 1,000 centiNewtons and enough
memory for up to 150 position measurements. TW smit@santexrimar.com www.santexrimar.com
FIBER WORLD
Sustainability
In Fiber Manufacturing
Innovation, collaboration and a carbon-footprint-focus abound
in the polymer and fiber industries.
TW Special Report
TT
he topic of sustainability has
grown to a point that virtually
every sector of manufacturing
has sustainability initiatives.
There is no shortage of headlines on
the subject in Textile World, fiber and
polymer companies included.
Demand by consumers and apparel
brands are driving sustainability ini-
tiatives beyond recycling to consider
the entire carbon footprint. New
brands are emerging and partner-
ships formed to gain position in the
sustainability space.
20 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
Naia™ Renew Cellulosic
Staple Fiber
Kingsport, Tenn.-based Eastman
recently launched its Naia™ Renew
cellulosic staple fiber for the women’s
casual wear and loungewear market.
According to the company the fiber is
made using 60-percent wood pulp
and 40-percent recycled waste plastics.
“With more consumers seeking
all-day comfort and style, the need
for sustainable yet soft, cocooning
clothing is higher than ever,” said
Carolina Sister Cohn, Eastman’s
Eastman recently introduced Naia™
Renew cellulosic staple fiber made using
60-percent wood pulp and 40-percent
recycled waste plastics.
global segment market manager for
fashion. “Today, shoppers looking
for sustainable options are not will-
ing to compromise on style nor on
quality or durability. Naia Renew sta-
ple fiber offers sustainable comfort
every day, everywhere.”
According to Eastman, the fiber is
produced using wood pulp sourced
from certified forests, and the recy-
cled plastics feedstock is generated
via Eastman’s patented carbon
renewal technology (CRT) (See “The
Recycled Plastics Challenge: East-
man’s Focus On Revolutionizing Recy-
cling,” TW , January/February 2021).
CRT is an integrated molecular recy-
cling technology that breaks down
waste plastics into basic molecular
building blocks for the manufacture
of new products including fibers.
Lenzing’s VEOCEL™ Brand,
Modal With Indigo
As of June 2021, Austria-based
Lenzing’s Veocel lyocell fibers will be
available as certified CarbonNeutral®
products with a carbon footprint
reduced to net-zero, according to
The CarbonNeutral Protocol. This
achievement was the result of Lenz-
ing’s ambitious goals over the past
few years and its collaboration with
Natural Capital Partners, a corporate
climate action program company.
Lenzing was able to reduce its car-
bon emissions to net-zero with
higher production efficiencies,
renewable energy sources and low
carbon materials, among other meth-
ods. Lenzing nonwovens customers
now can reduce climate impact by
using the carbon-neutral Veocel
fibers in their own processes.
“At Lenzing, we are very proud of
the progress we have been making to
address climate change,” said Robert
van de Kerkhof, member of the board
of Lenzing. “The new carbon neutral
Veocel Lyocell fibers will play a big
role in contributing to our goal to
become a net-zero company by 2050.
At Lenzing, we understand that caring
for the environment isn’t just good
business, but good for the business.”
Lenzing also recently introduced a
sustainable Tencel™ branded modal
fiber featuring Indigo Color technol-
ogy for the denim industry. A one-
step spun-dyeing process allows
Lenzing to incorporate indigo pigment
directly into the fibers, which “delivers
superior color fastness relative to con-
ventional indigo dyeing whilst using
substantially fewer resources.”
“By upending traditional manu-
facturing processes and implement-
ing our pioneering technology along
with renewable and eco-responsible
materials, Tencel Modal with Indigo
Color technology sets a new bench-
mark for indigo application and sus-
tainability in the denim industry,”
said Florian Heubrandner, vice presi-
dent, Global Textiles Business at
Lenzing AG.
IVL’s Deja™
Carbon Neutral PET
Bangkok-based Indorama Ven-
tures Public Co. Ltd. (IVL) has cre-
ated and expanded what it refers to
as a “portfolio of sustainable solu-
tions under its Deja ™ brand.” IVL
reports its Deja Carbon Neutral PET
pellet is a carbon neutral PET pellet
solution. The company is working to
grow its Deja portfolio, which
includes sustainable PET and rPET in
polymer and fiber forms.
D. K. Agarwal, CEO of Indorama
Ventures, said: “We are pleased to
continually grow the Deja low carbon
performance PET, rPET and polymer
brand platform. Working throughout
the supply chain, Deja offers sustain-
ability by giving converters credibility,
retailers accreditation, and end con-
sumers the assurance of transparency
and high performance as standard.
Deja demands more from our PET
and less from the environment by
recycling and transforming PET into
extraordinary, sustainable products
across multiple applications that per-
form as they protect the future.”
In other IVL news, fiber producer
FiberVisions and spunlaid nonwoven and launched into the market in late
manufacturer Avgol — both IVL 2018 as an effort to battle microplas-
companies — are collaborating and tics in the ocean; PrimaLoft
working with scientists at Poly- P.U.R.E.™, which provides materials
materia Ltd. to commercially harness manufactured with greater than 50-
“biotransformation” technology pio- percent carbon dioxide savings; and
neered by the London-based based PrimaLoft’s post-consumer recycling
company. This patented technology initiative.”
can alter the properties of polyolefins “We are thrilled to partner with
so that they become biodegradable in PrimaLoft, a leader in sustainability
a natural process. During the degre- and advanced, engineered insulating
dation process, the material first products for apparel, outdoor gear,
decomposes into a wax. Environ- and home goods,” said Origin Mate-
mental bacterial action then further rials co-CEO Rich Riley. “We have a
degrades the wax into carbon diox- shared vision for how materials can
ide, water and biomass. Polymateria
hopes the biotransformation technol-
ogy will find applications in non-vir-
gin resin recycling, as well as solving
the problem of items that have not
been properly recycled or disposed.
“With 32 percent of all plastic
winding up in our natural environ-
ment each year we need to ensure
we are working with partners who
can enable scalable solutions to
address what is becoming close to a
100 million tons per year problem,”
said Niall Dunne, Polymateria CEO.
“Indorama has a strong track record
on sustainability and shares our mis-
sion and values. The trust that has
emerged between our businesses has
been grounded in science and a
shared mission to tackle the plastic
pollution pandemic at scale”.
Developing Carbon-Negative Lenzing now offers Tencel™ branded
Insulating Fiber modal fiber featuring Indigo Color
West Sacramento, Calif.-based Technology for the denim industry.
carbon negative materials company
Origin Materials Inc. and Latham, help the world transition to net zero
N.Y-based PrimaLoft report they will carbon as soon as possible. Together,
collaborate to develop carbon-nega- we can develop innovative solutions
tive, insulating, high-performance that will bring tremendous value to
fibers focused on outdoor, fashion, PrimaLoft’s customers and result in a
and lifestyle brands, as well as home significant reduction of carbon emis-
goods applications such as hypoaller- sions in the apparel, outdoor, and
genic insulated bedding. home goods sectors.”
A recent press release stated that:
“The collaboration builds on Pri- Macron, RadiciGroup
maLoft’s ‘Relentlessly Responsible™’ Collaborate
mission to elevate both performance Recently sportswear brand Macron
and sustainability, through innova- and RadiciGroup, both based in Italy,
tion. The platform includes Prima- joined forces announcing they will col-
Loft ® Bio ™ , which was developed laborate, each sharing their expertise to
Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 21
develop and make sustainable, techni-
cal, high-performance sportswear. The
line features sport socks made using
RadiciGroup’s Renycle ® recycled
nylon 6 yarn — a “high-value material
with excellent resistance, dyeing char-
acteristics, softness and versatility,”
according to the company. Radici-
Group takes recovered production
scraps, converts them back to polymers
to be spun into yarns with technical
characteristics comparable to yarns
made using virgin materials. According
to RadiciGroup, Renycle reduces car-
bon dioxide emissions by almost 90
percent, and generates energy and
water savings of more than 87 percent
and 90 percent respectively.
“A circular economy cannot be
achieved by acting alone,” stressed
Angelo Radici, RadiciGroup presi-
dent. “As upstream players in the
supply chain, we have always tried to
share our knowledge of materials
and deliver solutions featuring both
better performance and respect for
the environment. Furthermore, it is
also crucial to find customers who
are equally sensitive to these issues
and can become strategic partners in
the development of innovative and
sustainable solutions. With Macron,
we have worked as a team to create
winning sports socks, because they
are made from recycled materials,
using all-Italian technologies, and
are the result of a zero-kilometer,
measured and traceable production
and supply chain.”
Nanofront® Ultra-Fine
Polyester From Teijin
Tokyo-based Teijin Frontier Co.
Ltd. has developed technology for the
mass production of a new Nanofront®
ultrafine polyester. According to the
company, this is the first nanofiber to
be made using recycled raw materials.
The goal is to use the technology to
produce all of its polyester fiber prod-
ucts from recycled raw materials,
replacing filament and textiles made
from petroleum-derived raw materials
that are used in sportswear, functional
clothing, and industrial uniforms,
among other products.
22 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
Teijin Frontier reports it has
solved the issues in mass producing
ultrafine fibers using recycled
polyester by engineering new poly-
mer control and spinning techniques.
A key step in the process is its pro-
prietary sea-island composite fiber
processing technology.
A sample sock
made using
Teijin Frontier’s
recycled raw material
Nanofront® ultrafine polyester.
Green Fiber’s special recycled trilobal
fibers may be used in filtration
applications,
Greening Up 2 Billion
PET Bottles
Romania-based Green Fiber, part
of the wider Green Group family,
recently announced that the business
is recycling more than 2 billion
polyethylene terephthalate (PET)
bottles annually into sustainable
polyester staple fiber products for a
variety of end-uses.
Green Fiber works in tandem with
sister company Green Tech, a PET
recycler in Europe, to close the circu-
lar loop by creating sustainable fibers
made using recycled PET bottles into
polyester staple fibers. According to
the company, this system results in a
50-percent reduction in carbon diox-
ide emissions, compared to process-
ing virgin fiber material alternatives.
“As part of our regenerative role
of both producer and recycler, we are
proud to recycle over 2 billion PET
bottles a year which are then trans-
formed into sustainable fibers for an
array of crucial industries,” said Alina
Elena Genes, general manager of
Green Fiber. “Furthermore, as we are
the largest producer of 100-percent
PET recycled fibers in Europe with a
range of products emitting 50-per-
cent less in carbon dioxide emissions
compared to virgin fiber alternatives,
we believe it’s now essential for sus-
tainable businesses to use our fibers
if they are serious in reducing their
carbon footprints.”
Nilit: Breaking Down
Nylon 6,6
Israel-based Nilit has introduced
Sensil ® BioCare nylon 6,6, which
incorporates technology proven by
an independent lab to break down
the BioCare fibers faster than con-
ventional nylons. Test simulations
included both landfill soil and sea
water to study the impact of Sensil
BioCare in both environments. Nilit
reports the “Sensil BioCare showed
remarkable disintegration in both
simulated environments during the
test periods in comparison to nylon
fiber that does not include the special
technology.”
“We designed our new Sensil Bio-
Care to help reduce the potential
impact of synthetic fabrics on the
Earth’s ecosystems,” said Ilan
Melamed, NILIT general manager.
“We provide consumers the same
performance, comfort, and durability
they expect from Sensil premium
nylon along with the peace of mind
that they are making a positive
choice for the planet.”
According to the company, the
proprietary technology incorporated
in Sensil BioCare will not wear off,
wash out, or interfere with other per-
formance additives, finishes or dyes.
Brand Involvement: H&M
Group, Inter IKEA Group,
Stora Enso, and LSCS
Stockholm-based TreeToTextile —
owned by H&M Group, Inter IKEA
Group, Stora Enso, and LSCS Invest
— is investing 35 million euros ($42.4
million) to construct a demonstration
plant in Sweden. The move is in
response to the growing global
demand for sustainable fibers, and
TreeToTextile sees the plant as the
critical next step in the commercial-
ization of a new sustainable textile
fiber made from renewable and sus-
tainably sourced raw materials from
the forest. The company’s regenerated
cellulosic fiber technology produces
biobased textile fibers with a low
environmental footprint at an attrac-
tive cost, according to TreeToTextile.
“Our technology has the potential
to reduce the environmental foot-
print of the textile industry signifi-
cantly,” said TreeToTextile’s CEO
Sigrid Barnekow. “With our owners’
support, innovative agendas, know-
how, and size, we assess that Tree-
ToTextile can play an important
contributing part globally, in
enabling the textile industry to
become sustainable and circular.”
Mohawk’s Eco-Friendly
EverStrand
More than 15 years after it was
first introduced, Calhoun, Ga.-based
Mohawk has announced plans to
refresh its EverStrand and Ever-
Strand Soft Appeal product lines.
“SmartStrand is our exclusive and
differentiated soft surface offering,”
said Denise Silbert, vice president of
marketing, soft surface. “We are
renewing our focus and simplifying
the message of SmartStrand to rein-
vigorate the collection.”
The polyester fiber carpet is made
using polyester from Mohawk’s Con-
tinuum recycling process, which has
processed more than 50 billion bot-
tles since the program began.
According to the company, approxi-
mately 63 reclaimed plastic bottles go
into making each square yard of
EverStrand carpet. SmartStrand
Mohawk’s SmartStrand carpet, such as the Charming Approach collection, features
recycled content and renewable plant-based ingredients.
products also incorporate some
renewable plant-based ingredients.
Mohawk also recently expanded
its ReCover Carpet Recycling Pro-
gram to include residential carpet.
The paid service facilitates repurpos-
ing old carpet into new carpet,
padding and other products. Since
the program began, it has diverted
159 million pounds of commercial
carpet from landfills, according to the
company. “There is a growing need
for sustainable flooring solutions
because today’s homeowners are
sensitive to their impact on the envi-
ronment,” Silbert said. “We strive to
create sustainable manufacturing
processes, products and programs
that will help make the world a
cleaner, healthier place.”
B.I.G. Launches EqoCycle
Yarns For Carpet
Belgium-based B.I.G. Yarns, a
division of Beaulieu International
Group, recently introduced the fully
recyclable nylon 6 yarn EqoCycle.
The carpet yarn is made using 75-
percent recycled granulates derived
from pre-consumer recycled and
regenerated nylon 6, certified by
Control Union for Global Recycled
Standard (GRS) Certification.
“Customers have the assurance
that for every 1,000 tons of EqoCycle
yarn, 13,562 barrels of oil are saved
and 2,700 tons of carbon dioxide
emissions are reduced, compared to
nylon 6 traditionally made from vir-
gin materials,” reports B.I.G. Yarns.
“EqoCycle is a perfect example of
how higher resource efficiency in our
industry can promote greater circu-
larity in our customers’ industries,”
said Emmanuel Colchen, general
manager, Yarns Division. “Minimiz-
ing waste, re-using materials, and
saving energy and carbon emissions
in production, it provides our cus-
tomers and carpet brands with a new
sustainable alternative that won’t
compromise their end-product per-
formance but will support their
increasing focus on carbon dioxide
reduction and global warming
potential.”
Future Developments
It’s apparent from this quick synop-
sis of TW headlines that there is no
shortage of sustainability news in the
fiber industry. The consumer and brand
demand are there, the technology is
developing and many firms see these
initiatives as the way forward. TW
To help readers stay informed about
sustainability news, TW editors have
added a sustainability category to its
w e b s i t e n e w s m e n u . V i s i t textile
world.com/category/textile-world/
sustainability to see the latest news.
Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 23
FIBER WORLD
Palmetto Synthetics:
Custom-Designed Fiber Solutions
An advocate of green and sustainable production methods
within the fiber industry, Palmetto Synthetics focuses on a
range of environmentally-friendly products.
PP
TW Special Report
almetto Synthetics LLC was
established in 1997 in Kingstree,
S.C., by founders Henry Poston,
Benjie Tanner and David Pos-
ton. With an initial focus on coarse
denier fiber extrusion for the abra-
sives industry, Palmetto quickly
expanded into fine denier solution
dyed polyester (PET) production.
“As the landscape of the textile
24 MAY/JUNE 2020 TextileWorld.com
industry evolved, we adapted to
become an agile, customer-focused,
custom-solutions supplier and have
become the largest independent
specialty fiber producer in the
United States,” said Palmetto’s
President David Poston. Today, Pal-
metto operates a 350,000-square-
foot manufacturing facility at its
Kingstree location, and has regional
Palmetto Synthetics can spin custom
colors for its customers.
sales offices in China and in the
United Kingdom.
Custom-Designed Solutions
Through the years, Palmetto has
focused on adding value by providing
custom designed solutions. “From
solution-dyed polyester for the auto-
motive industry, Palmetto Synthetics
moved into apparel with finer-denier
products,” Poston said. “As customer
demand warranted, we began experi-
menting with various other thermo-
plastic polymers, which led us into
composites, sustainable fibers and
performance apparel markets.”
For Palmetto, creating custom fiber
solutions means drawing from a broad
pallette of options. “We welcome the
opportunity to work with our cus-
tomers to explore other polymer solu-
tions,” said VP Nik Casstevens.
“Along with polyester, nylon 6 and
nylon 6,6, we can produce staple fibers
from PLA [polylactic acid], PCT [poly-
cyclohexylene-dimethylene tereph-
thalate], PBT [polybutylene tereph-
thalate], PC [polycarbonate], CoPET
[copolyester], and thermoplastic
elastomers.”
When asked about building cus-
tom products, Executive Sales Direc-
tor Bart Krulic described Palmetto’s
binder fiber. “Palmetto Synthetics’
binder fiber is made from recycled
polymer, and it is unique in that it is
amorphous and melts completely
clear, which has the advantage of not
affecting the color of a nonwoven
fabric,” Krulic said. “When a heated
calendar roll is applied to the finished
fabric, the binder fiber melts and
migrates to the heated side, creating a
latex-like backing that makes the fab-
ric completely recyclable compared to
a coated material made using latex.”
Adding Performance With
Additives
Palmetto’s custom products
included designing performance with
a full range of additives. “We are able
to dialogue with our customers to
find additive solutions,” Casstevens
said. “It’s not only pigments. We can
insert a multitude of additives that
can make the fiber antimicrobial,
flame-retardant, and sustainable to
the environment; in particular, those
additives can increase biodegrada-
tion. Also, Palmetto Synthetics can
incorporate additives to enhance per-
sonal micro-climate.”

Range Of Capabilities
Palmetto Synthetics offers a broad Palmetto Synthetics’ is headquartered
range of production capabilities and in Kingstree, S.C.
can dedicate more than 85 million
pounds of fine denier staple fiber —
from 1.5 to 45 denier — and coarse
denier staple fiber — ranging from 45
to 200 denier—on three and two
spinning lines respectively in a variety
of cross section options including
round, trilobal, hollow, ribbon/flat,
and dog bone. “We specialize in pre-
cision color matching and our additive
feed system affords us exceptional
accuracy and flexibility in color
matching and color control,”
Casstevens said. Palmetto can also
accommodate customers with a wide
range of cut lengths, from 6 millime-
ters (mm) to 152 mm. In terms of fin-
ish, “Palmetto Synthetics can apply
any finish to match the customers’
processing needs, from yarn spinning,
needlepunch, spunlace and wet-laid,
to name a few,” Casstevens added.
The company also offers a range of
U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA)-compliant fiber finishes.” Palmetto has multiple recycling lines to convert post-consumer recyclable waste
(right) into pellets (left) for use in its spinning processes.
Sustainability Focus
Palmetto Synthetics has multiple and products demonstrate that this Palmetto Synthetics’
recycling lines capable of repelletiz- goal is achievable.” Future Outlook
ing material that may include recy- “To demonstrate our commitment When asked about the future, Poston
cled bottles, internal waste, and to the environment, we solution-dye stated, “The Palmetto Synthetics Team
customer waste. our staple fiber, which is the cleanest and I embrace the challenges of the
“For the entire history of Palmetto way to produce colors, since there is future and partner with our customers to
Synthetics, we have believed in ‘zero no effluent released into the environ- provide the highest quality fiber and ser-
waste,’ and that has motivated us to ment,” Casstevens added. vice to enhance our mutual products.”
install the equipment necessary to Palmetto Synthetics specializes in Palmetto has come a long way
convert waste into staple fiber,” Pos- precision color matching with excep- from an extruder of coarse denier
ton said. “While the sustainability tional accuracy and flexibility in color fiber for the abrasives industry to
message has ebbed and flowed over matching and color control, which today’s full service, independent spe-
time, this generation has made it makes this green solution a valuable cialty fiber producer providing cus-
clear that we need to be good stew- quality for clients with a sustainabil- tom solutions that add engineered
ards of this planet, and our process ity focus. performance for its clients. TW

Textile World MAY/JUNE 2020 25

KNITTING/APPAREL
Textiles And Apparel:
Sustainability Center Stage
Textile manufacturers and brands are developing innovative strategies
to make the textile and apparel industry more sustainable.
E
TW Special Report
ach year, Earth Day typically
coincides with a steady flow of
new stories pointing to sustain-
able actions textile and apparel
companies have achieved or are in the
process of implementing. Companies
also issue their annual Corporate Sus-
tainability Reports (CSRs), reporting
accomplishments and targets for
future years. Sustainability is not a
new concept in the industry, but it is
an issue that has great momentum at
the moment. Companies from textile
manufacturers to brands are reporting
huge efforts to make the textile indus-
try a more sustainable entity.
Sustainability Reports
Spartanburg-based Milliken &
Company recently released its third
annual CSR. The report titled
“Together for Tomorrow,” highlights
the company’s progress towards
26 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
2025 goals set back in 2018. Accord-
ing to the company, “this report cre-
ates increased accountability while
inviting new conversations and col-
laborations as the company works to
create a positive impact on the world
that will last generations.”
“Together, we met the critical
moments from 2020,” said Milliken’s
President and CEO Halsey Cook.
“We pivoted production lines,
launched new innovations, and ral-
lied our team to improve our sustain-
ability metrics in 10 of 12 strategic
categories. Our sustainability initia-
tives have momentum and are fun-
damentally changing our business.”
Milliken reported progress in 2020
in a number of its planet and product
goals including: capital investments to
eliminate coal as a primary fuel source;
the Borchers acquisition to help the
company scale its coating additives
Champion Athleticwear’s new Natural
State Reverse Weave collection features
muted, natural colors created with all-
natural dyes derived from plants.
platform while reducing solvent use;
and convening thought leaders at an
event hosted by National Geographic
Creative Works to support the plastics
circularity conversation.
With regards to the company’s
people goals, Milliken reported an
ongoing commitment to advancing
diversity, equality and inclusion; pri-
oritizing associate safety; and
launching the Milliken Leadership
Model, aimed at training associates
on growth leadership with purpose.
Glen Raven Inc. also just
released its first CSR (“See “Corporate
Responsibility In Flight,” TW , this
issue). The report aims to strengthen
Glen Raven’s history as a good cor-
porate citizen.
Charlotte-based Elevate Textiles
— the parent company of American
& Efird (A&E), Burlington, Cone
Denim, Gütermann and Safety
Components — recently issued its
2021 Sustainability Report. Accord-
ing to the company, it made signifi-
cant progress towards its 2025
sustainability goals, which include a
focus on sustainably-sourced fibers,
reduced water consumption and a
reduction in greenhouse gas emis-
sions. The company has aligned its
goals with the United Nations’ (UN)
Global Compact’s Ten Principles —
which lays out fundamental corpo-
rate responsibilities for sustainability
in the areas of human rights, labor,
environment and anti-corruption.
This follows Elevate’s own “Ten
Threads of Sustainability” environ-
mental program (See “U.S. Textiles:
Pacesetters In Sustainability,” TW ,
July/August 2018).
Areas of progress highlighted in
Elevate’s 2021 Sustainability Report
include: a water recycling increase of
65 percent and a 7.5-percent reduction
in absolute global water consumption
since 2016; and measurement of
Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions
and a reduction in Scope 1 and 2
greenhouse gases in line with a corpo-
rate goal of 2.5 percent per year.
“We are focused on providing eth-
ically and sustainably sourced prod-
ucts that offer innovative solutions
needed to be successful, and we view
our teams and global resources as a
collaborative extension and partner to
our customers, suppliers, employees,
communities and other stakehold-
ers,” said Sim Skinner, president and
CEO of Elevate Textiles.
In addition, Elevate announced
that it has joined the Sustainable
Apparel Coalition (SAC), joining
more than 250 global brands, retail-
ers, manufacturers, government enti-
ties, non-profit organizations and
academic institutions that are com-
mitted to improving sustainability in
the apparel, footwear and textile
industry supply chains. As part of its
participation, Elevate has committed
to contribute data and resources to
support the Higg Index, a suite of
tools that measures sustainability
performance that Elevate brands
have been using since 2014.
“We welcome the addition of Ele-
vate Textiles to the Sustainable
Apparel Coalition and look forward
to its participation in this industry-
wide effort in sustainability,” said
SAC Executive Director Amina Razvi.
“Having Elevate and each of its top
textile brands as part of the coalition
widens the scope of our impact
within the industry and accelerates
the change we’re making towards
responsible industry actions.”
High Point, N.C.-based Culp Inc.
recently joined the Sustainable Furnish-
ings Council (SFC) — “an independent,
non-profit coalition of furniture industry
manufacturers, retailers, and designers
dedicated to raising awareness and
promoting the adoption of environ-
mentally sustainable practices in the
home furnishings industry.” SFC core
beliefs focus on carbon reduction,
water management, product circular-
ity, and waste reduction, among other
sustainable strategies.
According to Culp, as the only
publicly-traded SFC company, it
plans to use its membership to
increase best practices and be a
leader in the home furnishings
industry with regards to environ-
mental and social change.
Recent accomplishments by Culp
include the use of solar panels at a
Knoxville, Tenn., facility; using hydro-
and wind power at a manufacturing
facility in Quebec; reusing water at a
plant in Stokesdale, N.C.; and achiev-
ing Zero to Landfill certification at all
of its U.S. mattress fabric and sewn
cover production facilities. Culp also
has seen success with its LiveSmart
Evolve® upholstery fabric line, which
has to date, has diverted more than
1.6 million plastics bottles from land-
fills, according to the company. (See
“Quality Fabric Of The Month: Culp’s
LiveSmart® Gets Smarter,” TW, Jan-
uary/February 2021).
“By joining this council, we are
hoping to further our efforts of incor-
porating sustainable practices into our
operations and have a greater positive
influence in our industry,” said Iv
Culp, president and CEO. “We are
known as an innovative and creative
company committed to managing our
business in a responsible manner.
This not only applies to our fabric
designs and material sourcing, but to
our entire company culture. We are
striving to find ways of operating that
are better for the environment, for our
customers, for our employees, and for
our communities.”
HanesBrands, Winston-Salem,
N.C., recently was awarded its 12th
consecutive U.S. Environmental Pro-
tection Agency (EPA) Energy Star
Sustained Excellence/Partner of the
Year award. The EPA launched the
Energy Star voluntary, market-based
partnership program in 1992 to
reduce greenhouse gas emissions via
increased efficiency. The Partner of
the Year honor recognizes organiza-
tions that have made outstanding
contributions to environmental pro-
tection through company-wide
energy savings and best practices.
The EPA recognized HanesBrands for
lowering overall energy use as well as
increasing its use of renewable
energy and electricity during 2020.
In 2020, the company named its
first chief sustainability officer.
HanesBrands reports it also imple-
mented 2030 sustainability goals
including further reducing energy
use by 25 percent, moving to 100-
percent renewable electricity and
launching science-based emission
reduction targets.
“We’re incredibly proud to remain
the only apparel company to earn
sustained excellence honors in the
U.S. EPA Energy Star program’s 29-
year history,” said Chris Fox, Hanes-
HanesBrands celebrated Earth Day with
its 12th consecutive U.S. EPA Energy Star
Award for environmental stewardship.
Brands chief sustainability officer.
“HanesBrands and its 61,000 world-
wide associates are deeply commit-
ted to sustainability and operating
our company as if every day is Earth
Day. But there is much more work
yet to do. We are intensely focused
on pursuing ambitious 2030 goals
that will improve the lives of people,
protect the planet and produce sus-
tainable products.”
Water-Saving Strategies
Greensboro, N.C.-based Kontoor
Brands — parent company of the
Wrangler® and Lee® denim brands
— has expanded its water-saving
Indigood™ program beyond foam-
dyed denim to include any technol-
ogy used in apparel fabric production
that utilizes at least 90-percent less
water than conventional processes.
“Water is one of our most vital
and precious natural resources, and
as such, we are focused on advancing
Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 27

Cone Denim is commited to driving
forward water conservation initiatives
in its manufacturing processes.
the sustainable and equitable man-
agement of water resources,” said
Jeff Frye, vice president of product
development and direct procure-
ment, Kontoor Brands. “By expand-
ing the Indigood program to include
additional water saving technologies,
we’re giving our suppliers the oppor-
tunity to select the water savings
technologies that work best for their
production, while also meeting the
growing consumer demand for prod-
ucts that not only look good, but also
minimize the impact on the planet.”
In other sustainability news,
Wrangler recently launched the
WeCare Wrangler ™ sustainability
platform aimed to guide sustainable
innovation in three key areas —
planet, product and people. The plat-
form includes goals such as using
preferred chemistry, renewable
energy and sustainable cotton, as
well as reducing water use.
“It matters to Wrangler what’s in
our clothing,” said Tom Waldron,
executive vice president, global brand
president, Wrangler. “The WeCare
Wrangler sustainability platform will
act as our roadmap as we help lead
the industry toward meaningful
change that creates more positive
environmental and social impacts.”
Elevate company Cone Denim has
long been committed to responsible
water use and global water conserva-
tion efforts in denim manufacturing.
Recently, the company released details
28 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
on the next phase of its water reduc-
tion initiatives, which includes a Zero
Liquid Discharge wastewater treat-
ment facility at Mexico-based Cone
Denim Parras.
“We are focused on a sustainable
future and minimizing our impact on
natural resources,” said Cone Denim
President Steve Maggard. “To support
these efforts, we’ve affirmed our com-
mitment to the UN Sustainable Devel-
opment Goals with our water
conservation initiatives focused on Goal
number 6: Clean Water and Sanitation.
We are driving conservation efforts
throughout our manufacturing pro-
cesses and establishing greater trans-
parency and improved ways to monitor,
track and report our progress.”
Cone Denim also partnered with
Spain-based Jeanologia S.L. on a
new denim collection that is the first
step in Jeanologia’s “Road to Mission
Zero.” Mission Zero is the commit-
ment to eliminating 100-percent of
the waste generated during denim
production. The collection features
sustainable options from fabric to
finish including Cone Denim Flash
Finish fabric manufactured using
Jeanologia’s G2 Dynamic ozone fin-
ishing ranges.
In other company sustainability
news, Cone reports it is on track to
use almost 3 million pounds of certi-
fied Organic Content Standard
(OCS) cotton by the end of 2021 in
the production of its organic denim
cotton collection. The company has
worked with suppliers to secure
inventory of this limited cotton prod-
uct. All Cone Denim mills are OCS
certified to make organic yarns and
denim fabrics, and the company was
the first denim manufacturer to offer
Oritain technology for scientific cot-
ton origin certification.
Unifi Recognizes Brand,
Textile And Retailer Partners
Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C.,
recently announced the recipients of
its fourth annual REPREVE® Cham-
pions Of Sustainability Awards. As a
fiber producer, Unifi has long been a
champion of sustainability in its own
right and certainly leads by example.
The company has recycled more than
25 billion plastics bottles in its
REPREVE fiber manufacturing pro-
cess, which uses less energy and
water compared to virgin fiber pro-
duction. Unifi reports it is on track to
reach its goal of recycling 30 billion
bottles by 2022. (See “Sustainability
In Fiber Manufacturing,” TW , this
issue, to learn more about sustainabil-
ity efforts by other fiber companies).
Unifi’s REPREVE Champions of
Sustainability awards “recognize
brand, textile and retail partners that
have demonstrated a true commit-
ment to supporting a sustainable
world.” In 2021, 93 companies were
honored — the largest number of
recipients since the awards’ inception.
In 2021, 38 brand and retail partners
that transformed 10 million or more
recycled plastic bottles and 55 textile
partners that transformed 50 million or
more recycled bottles were recognized
by Unifi. The list of winners is available
on TW’s website.
Unifi also conferred two special
category awards: REPREVE New-
comer to Switzerland-based Odlo;
and the REPREVE Leading the
Change award to Turkey-based
Penti.
“Despite the COVID-19 pan-
demic, Unifi remains successful
because of its customers,” said Unifi
CEO Eddie Ingle. “With a nearly 20-
percent increase in the number of
winners from the previous year, our
brand partners are demonstrating a
steadfast commitment to sustainabil-
ity. We want to thank them for their
support for a more sustainable world
during these unparalleled times.”
Brand-Led
Sustainability Efforts
On a mission to make clothes that
feel good and do good as part of its
Champion MADE promise, Winston
Salem, N.C.-based Champion Ath-
leticwear has introduced two new
lines — the Natural State Reverse
Weave and Rally Pro Earth footwear.
The Natural State collection fea-
tures recycled polyester fibers; mini-
mally processed and unbleached fab-
rics; and uses only all-natural dyes
derived from flowers, plants and roots
for muted, natural colors. The Rally
Pro Earth sneaker collection com-
prises Rally Pro sneakers made using
more earth-friendly materials includ-
ing upcycled and recycled products.
“We are dedicated to helping pro-
tect the planet by creating best-in-
class sustainable products,” said
David Robertson, director, Cham-
pion Global Brand Marketing. “The
launch of Natural State and Rally Pro
Earth are only the beginning of what
we have in-the-works to protect the
place we all call home.”
Lululemon athletica inc., Van-
couver, recently announced two new
initiatives — lululemon Like New
and Earth Dye — as part of the Be
Planet pillar of its Impact Agenda
released in the fall of 2020.
Like New is lululemon’s first
recommerce program that will allow
customers to trade in or resell the
brand’s clothing. Pilot programs will
first launch in California and Texas,
and profits from the program will be
directly reinvested in additional sus-
tainability programs.
The Earth Dye initiative focuses on
a limited-edition collection of cloth-
ing dyed using upcycled orange, beet
and saw palmetto tree waste from the
agricultural and herbal industries.
According to the company, these
lower-impact dyes use less water,
carbon and man-made chemicals.
“lululemon is actively working to
help create a healthier future, and we
are focused on meeting the goals
detailed in our Impact Agenda,
including making 100 percent of our
products with sustainable materials
and end-of-use solutions by 2030,”
said lululemon CEO Calvin McDon-
ald. “Our lululemon Like New and
Earth Dye initiatives are both mean-
ingful steps towards a circular
ecosystem and demonstrate the sus-
tainable innovation underway in
product development and retail.”
Denver-based JanSport intro-
duced its first backpack collection
made using excess factory materials
that otherwise may end up in a land-
fill. Every component of the limited-
edition Surplus Ski n’ Hike backpacks
— fabric, ladder lock lining and zip-
per pulls — come from pre-existing
factory materials. Other key sustain-
ability-related milestone also were
reported by JanSport including:
switching certain products to recycled
fabrics and linings, which saved the
equivalent of 13 million 16-ounce
plastic water bottles; implementing
renewable energy sources and energy
efficient processes to reduce the com-
pany’s carbon footprint; using 100-
percent recycled paper for hangtags;
and designing all products to be
polyvinyl chloride-free.
“As part of our sustainability efforts,
JanSport wants to keep fabric off the
cutting room floor and ensure that our
unused products do not go to waste,”
said Roger Spatz, JanSport president.
“We challenged our designers to con-
struct a backpack collection entirely
from surplus fabrics and components
from our factory, and we could not be
more impressed with the result. The
Surplus Ski n’ Hike breathes new life
into an archived silhouette and uses
the textiles in a smarter, more sustain-
able way that prevents these elements
from potentially going into landfill.”
In an effort to change how the
apparel industry colors cotton by
addressing water scarcity and pollu-
tion, New York City-based Ralph
Lauren has launched the Color on
Demand dyeing platform, which will
be implemented in phases. Color on
Demand comprises a new set of
technologies that enables water
reuse and recycling during the dye-
ing process for a scalable zero
wastewater cotton dyeing system.
Ralph Lauren reports the system also
reduces the amount of dye, chemi-
cals, time and energy used to color
the cotton. The brand collaborated
with Dow, Jeanologia, Huntsman
Textile Effects and Corob to
rethink the dyeing process and
develop a more efficient system. The
first phase of Color on Demand
focuses on using ECOFAST ™ Pure
Sustainable Textile Treatment from
JanSport’s Ski n’ Hike limited-edition
backpacks feature excess factory
materials to keep them out of a landfill.
Dow, which reduces water, chemi-
cals and energy use for a 60-percent
reduction in the carbon footprint
when compared to traditional cotton
dyeing processes. Ralph Lauren will
launch products made using this
treatment later this year.
“Water scarcity and pollution are
important issues for the fashion
industry and through our partnership
with Ralph Lauren we are working
towards addressing these chal-
lenges,” said Sheila Bonini, senior
vice president, Private Sector Engage-
ment at World Wildlife Fund. “Tech-
nology has the ability to accelerate
change at a scale that matters, so it’s
exciting to see Ralph Lauren estab-
lishing innovative new models that
transform outdated practices and can
deliver measurable outcomes for peo-
ple and planet. This is exactly the
kind of leadership we need to see
from the fashion industry.”
Important issues indeed. But issues
the manufacturers and brands seem
to be tackling with innovative, for-
ward-thinking solutions. The industry
is full of leaders setting the bar and
encouraging every company in the
textile value chain to get involved and
make a difference. TW
Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 29
DYEING, PRINTING & FINISHING
PFAS: A Textile
Perspective
Despite the textile industry’s limited use of PFAS materials, future
regulation may impact producers of performance fabrics.
GG
By Hardy Sullivan
iven the wide array of end uses
for per- and polyfluoroalkyl
substances (PFAS), producers of
performance fabrics, including
personal protective equipment (PPE)
gowns with superior blood repel-
lency, workwear with oily stain
release properties, and high-use
upholstery needing resistance to oily
foods and stains, might think the
press’ portrayal of the textile industry
misses the mark. Why focus on fabric
but ignore phones?
As an end-user of PFAS materials,
textiles make up only a tiny fraction
of PFAS consumption. And as a per-
centage by weight of fabric, a little
goes a long way. Yet stain-resistant
fabric gets top billing as a PFAS
source in consumer-facing news arti-
cles. In turn, some state regulators
have targeted PFAS-containing car-
pet and upholstery, detracting atten-
tion from primary pollution sources
— non-polymeric PFAS processing
aids and PFAS-containing firefight-
ing foam.
But textile producers have a story
30 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
Figure 1: Where do
they come from?
(Courtesy of
Consumer Reports)
to tell, too. These products are safe
for the consumer and require only a
small amount of short-chain PFAS to
impart performance, saving the envi-
ronment from detrimental effects of a
fast fashion, disposable goods men-
tality. And there are significant dif-
ferences between PFAS substances;
thus, one-size-fits-all regulation is
unfair and not science-based.
Who will prevail in the battle for
the narrative? Will other consumer
products get noticed?
PFAS In The Media
PFAS news suggests these sub-
stances are polluting waterways and
firefighting training grounds. A May
2021 Consumer Reports article, “How
Safe is Our Drinking Water?,” states
PFAS were detected in the drinking
water of 117 out of 120 households.
Two of the samples exceeded the fed-
eral advisory level of 70 parts per tril-
lion (ppt), and 46 samples exceeded
Consumer Reports’ recommended 10
ppt limit for total PFAS.
Though the Consumer Reports
article states manufacturers use PFAS
to make “hundreds of other common
products,” a visual representation of
PFAS sources published by the pub-
lication (see Figure 1) shows only
three sources — stain resistant fabric,
non-stick pans and fast-food packag-
ing. A picture, is indeed, worth a
thousand words.
There are numerous other exam-
ples of the industry’s unwanted high
profile. A recent New York Times arti-
cle titled “These Everyday Toxins
May Be Hurting Pregnant Women
and Their Babies” featured the sub-
head “PFAS, industrial chemicals
used to waterproof jackets and
grease-proof fast-food containers,
may disrupt pregnancy with lasting
effects.” And in a podcast interview,
the European Chemical Agency’s
Executive Director cited cookware,
clothing and carpet as common end-
uses for PFAS.
In response to the negative press,
brands and retailers — including Gap,
H&M, Ikea and Home Depot — have
publicly discontinued the sale of
treated fabrics, or plan to do so.
Whoever said “There’s no such
thing as bad press” wasn’t producing
PFAS-containing fabric.
Which Industries Utilize PFAS?
A better question to ask is what
manufacturing industries do not uti-
lize PFAS. All PFAS chemistries
include strong carbon to fluorine
bonds. As early as the 1940s, compa-
nies started capitalizing on fluorine’s
unique properties, such as its rela-
tively compact atomic structure and
high electronegativity, or affinity for
electrons. Carbon-fluorine bonds
enable chemical resistance, stability
in hot and cold temperatures, low
surface energy, low friction, low
rigidity, variable permeability, and
dielectric insulation. Numerous
industries developed an array of
uses, some of which, given fluorine’s
special place on the periodic table,
may not be possible by other means.
Figure 2 contains descriptions of
end-uses by industry according to
the American Chemistry Council.
How Does PFAS Consumption FLUOROTECHNOLOGY MAKES IMPORTANT PRODUCTS FOR VITAL INDUSTRIES POSSIBLE
In Textiles Compare To
Other industries?
FIRST MILITARY
Putting PFAS consumption in per- RESPONDERS OIL AND GAS
Provides reliable
Enables apparel and
ELECTRONICS Offers life-saving equipment to provide
spective is a central issue that has Improves insulation,
protection in safety
gear and firefighting
equipment to help improve
the safety and affordability of
high-barrier skin
protection in extreme
weather-ability, oil-field and pipeline operations.
gone unaddressed in press coverage. transparency and
water-resistance.
foams used to fight
flammable liquid Improves the reliability and
environments and
against chemical
Provides smooth and fires. safety of fuel system seals and CHEMICAL/
Some consumer end-uses have been smudge-resistant
AUTOMOTIVE
hoses, O-rings and downhole
warfare agents.
PHARMACEUTICAL
MANUFACTURING
touch screens. and field equipment
reported, but PFAS consumption by Provides every
automotive system with
gaskets . Provides sterile,
corrosion-resistant
durability, heat and chemical
industry has been absent. Everyday resistance and vapor barriers. HEALTHCARE
coatings, linings and
equipment.
AEROSPACE/ Increases reliability of engine Serves as high
consumer goods containing PFAS DEFENSE compartment wirings and gauges
and improves auto safety by
dielectric insulators in
medical equipment that relies
Enables chemical-resistant
chemistries include smart phones and tubes ,hoses and fluid seals; high
and low temperature brake and
reducing engine compartment
fires. Protects carpets and
on high frequency signals, like
defibrillators , pacemakers and CRT,
seats against stains, soil, PET and MRI imaging devices. Used
tablet touchscreens, smart watch hydraulic fluids used in aircraft control
systems and brakes; and ultra-high oil and water. SEMICONDUCTORS to treat medical garments , drapes
frequency wire and cable insulation and divider curtains to protect
Creates the ultra-pure
bands, dental floss, bicycle chain lubri- necessary for navigation,
ALTERNATIVE
manufacturing environments
against the transmission
of diseases and
fly-by-wire control and necessary for micro-electronics.
ENERGY
cant, and eyeglass lenses, to name a aircraft communications. Used for plasma machinery, infections.
OUTDOOR
Enables lithium etching materials, cleaning APPAREL/
batteries , fuel cells and
few. There are hundreds more. solar panels, which
fluids and wetting
surfactants for
EQUIPMENT
Creates breathable membranes
contribute to reduced chemical etchants.
A recent paper, “An overview of the emissions and
and long-lasting finishes that
provide water repellency, oil
energy costs. repellency, stain resistance
uses of per- and polyfluoroalkyl sub- BUILDING/ and soil release with
CONSTRUCTION
abrasion-resistant
Enhances durability,
stances (PFAS)” published by the UV resistance and
FLUORINE CARBON
finishes for apparel
and equipment.
anti-corrosive properties to
Royal Society of Chemistry, attempted lengthen the lifetime of
infrastructure, facades
to not only identify PFAS end-uses but and surfaces.
FluoroTechnology is the use of fluorine chemistry to create any
fluorinated product. When fluorine and carbon atoms join together,
also characterize consumption by they create a powerful chemical bond. The use and manipulation of this
bond gives FluoroTechnology its distinct properties of strength, durability,
industry. Though the data comes from Figure 2 heat-resistance and stability. These properties are critical to the reliable and
safe function of myriad products that industry and consumer rely on every day.
some of the Nordic countries, it pro-
vides useful insight for the United impact on the safety of drinking water Significant Differences
States. The take-away? While the reg- will be very limited. Figure 3 shows Between PFAS Substances
ulation of PFAS-containing textiles that textiles, despite all of the attention Fluorocarbon’s unique properties
might make some state regulators feel they receive, don’t break the top 10 in led to the creation of more than
good that something is being done, the terms of end-use consumption. 5,000 PFAS compounds. The multi-
tude of chemistries makes PFAS ripe
for confusion. The array of designer
Consumption By End-Use Category cocktails is so large that a panel of
For PFAS Compounds stakeholders came together in 2011
just to establish PFAS naming guide-
5000 lines. If it takes 29 pages to describe
Non-polymers how to name chemistries within a
Polymers class of chemicals then, chances are,
4000
there are significant differences
between the chemistries.
Total amount (tons)

3000 While all PFAS materials are envi-

ronmentally persistent, an important
2000 distinction within the PFAS class is
they exist in different states —
1000 including solids, liquids, and gases.
The state of matter greatly impacts
mobility through air, water and soil.
0
The liquid state, for example, of
Building and construction
Chemical industry
Electronic industry
Food production
Machinery and equipment
Manufacturing of metal products
Oil and gas industry
Production of plastic and rubber
Wood processing
Aerosol propellant
Automotive
Cleaning compositions
Coatings and paints
Electricity, gas, steam, air condit.
Flame retardants and exting. agent
Floor covering including carpets
Laboratory equipment
Lubricants and greases
Paper and packaging
Pesticides
Pharmaceuticals
Printing (inks)
Sealants and adhesives
Soldering
Sport article
Surface treatment
Textile including textile production
Various

PFAS-containing firefighting foam

contributes greatly to its ability to
contaminate soil, as opposed to
PFAS solids found on textiles.
Additionally, there are, literally,
sizeable differences between poly-
meric and non-polymeric PFAS sub-
stances, referred to here as PFAS
polymers and PFAS non-polymers
Figure 3 (see Figure 4). A PFAS non-polymer

Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 31


A Few Examples Out Of 5,000+ PFAS Polymers
& PFAS Non-Polymers
Figure 4
consists of a single molecule; whereas, As visualized in Figure 4, PFAS
polymers can consist of thousands of non-polymers, play one or more of
repeating molecular units. The rela- the following roles:
tively small size of PFAS non-poly- • process aids essential for production
mers makes them more mobile — of PFAS polymers that do not nec-
easy to spread in air and waterways essarily end up in PFAS polymer;
— and more bio-available — with • raw material inputs for making
increased potential to build up in PFAS polymers that are incorpo-
blood and body tissues where they rated in the PFAS polymer;
might do harm. • impurities or unintentional
It is not as simple as PFAS poly- byproducts contained within the
mers are good and PFAS non-poly- PFAS polymers; and/or
mers are bad, however, because there • degradants resulting from decom-
are varying levels of toxicity between position of PFAS polymers over
the PFAS non-polymers. Adding to long periods of time.
the complexity, there is an interde-
pendence between some PFAS poly- Which PFAS Chemicals Are
mers and PFAS non-polymers. Commonly Used In Textiles?
The primary PFAS chemicals used
Exterior rain
in textiles include polytetrafluo-
roethylene (PTFE) and short-chain
transpiration
abrasion fluorinated polymers known as C6 or
resistant
outer shell C4 chemistries. Both materials are
PFAS polymers. PTFE can serve as a
protection
waterproof breathable membrane,
Gore-Tex and the C6 reduces the surface
membrane
energy of the uppermost layer,
protection imparting water and oil repellency
soft (see Figure 5) . Non-fluorinated
inner
layer chemistries are available as supple-
transpiration ments or replacements to the PFAS-
containing materials, but they tend
Interior Figure 5 to not perform as well.
32 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
Perfluorooctanesulfonic acid
(PFOS) and perfluorooctanoic acid
(PFOA) are both intentionally pro-
duced processing aids for PTFE, as
well as low-level impurities of long-
chain fluorinated polymers. PFOA,
though not a raw material, was a low-
level impurity in the long-chain fluo-
rinated polymer produced by DuPont
— produced via telomerization. PFOS
was the impurity present in 3M’s
long-chain fluorinated polymer —
produced via electrofluorination.
What Are The Sources Of
PFAS Pollution?
According to the U.S. Environmen-
tal Protection Agency, PFAS contami-
nation is “typically localized and
associated with a specific facility … an
industrial facility where PFAS were
produced or used to manufacture
other products, or locations where
firefighting foam was used such as oil
refineries, airfields or other training
facilities for firefighters.”
Does Carpet Cause
PFAS Pollution?
Researchers are using sophisti-
cated analytical techniques to mea-
sure PFAS levels in waterways,
homes, retail stores and fire-fight-
ing stations.
The latest scientific evidence
appears to refute regulators’ empha-
sis on carpet. A 2020 study pub-
lished by the American Chemical
Society in its Environmental Science
& Technology journal measured
PFAS levels in dust taken from 184
homes in North Carolina. While
earlier studies draw different con-
clusions, this journal article reported
there was no significant difference
in PFAS levels in dust collected at
homes with and without carpet.
Additionally, no significant differ-
ences were found based on age or
square footage of the houses. The
article also reported a decline in
PFAS content in dust over the past
20 years. Using data from earlier
studies, some state regulators are
targeting PFAS-treated carpeting as
a non-essential end-use.
What Are The Consequences
Of Removing C6 PFAS From
Textiles?
Multiple surveys of U.S. design-
ers by Interior Design magazine
indicate strong demand among
specifiers and end-users for surface
cleanability. Cleanability is particu-
larly important in the healthcare
segment, topping the list of factors
that influence fabric selection.
For markets where spot-cleanabil-
ity is important, the absence of C6
could shorten the life of fabrics, lead-
ing to increased demand for replace-
ments. While selling more fabric
benefits producers, it is higher cost to
end-users, and negatively impacts
the environment because of higher
use of non-renewable fuels for man-
made fibers, coatings, production
and transportation; increased use of
pesticides for natural fibers; elevated
emissions and effluent from manu-
facturing; increased landfill use; pos-
sibly higher microplastics pollution;
and increased use of harsh solvent
cleaners.
PFAS Regulation In The
United States And Europe
A comprehensive list of actions
being taken by the EPA is available
on its website. Actions affecting
drinking water include studying
PFAS chemistries, monitoring sites,
setting standards and identifying
treatment options.
In addition, some U.S. states have
proposed or enacted an array of dis-
parate measures to prevent or con-
strain PFAS contamination. Safer
States is an organization that tracks
PFAS-related legislation and litiga-
tion. State-by-state legislation varies
widely but includes testing water
supplies for PFAS; funding for
cleanups; bans for PFAS in food
packaging; firefighting foam restric-
tions; and prohibition on the use of
PFAS in consumer products, includ-
ing carpet and textiles.
The FDA obtained agreements
from short-chain fluorotelomer pro-
ducers to phase out their PFAS prod-
ucts in food packaging by 2023.
Viewed in combination with other higher consumer satisfaction, allow-
end-uses under scrutiny, the loss of ing the textile products to last longer.
this market opportunity reduces the Despite the textile industry’s role
overall market attractiveness for short- as a minor user of PFAS, negative
chain fluorinated polymer producers press coverage has dented PFAS
that also supply textile finishers. usage in textiles. Looking ahead, the
PFAS materials are also under path will be difficult to navigate.
pressure in Europe. Operating within Challenges include the media spot-
the guidelines of the European Chem- light, environmental persistence,
ical Agency (ECHA), five Member confusion about the chemistries, cus-
States have proposed a ban or restric- tomer perception, shrinking market
tion on all PFAS materials. This pro- attractiveness for fluorotelomer pro-
cess will take several years to unfold. ducers, ongoing safety studies and
A more immediate threat to Euro- regulators’ desire to target low-hang-
pean textile producers is Germany’s ing fruit. The cards are stacked
against performance
Most Important Factors When Specifying Textiles textile producers and
finishers.
healthcare
One thing is clear:
cleanability/maintenance 87%
Textile companies
aesthetic/design (style/pattern) 82%
color selection 81% that haven’t already
tactile quality (texture, feel, hand) 73% launched fabrics with a
durability/quality 69% non-fluorinated finish
price 57%
need to have a backup
sustainability 56%
available/delivery time 46% plan ready to go.
As for other indus-
Figure 6 Source: Association for Contract Textiles tries using PFAS, it
seems unlikely that
proposal to restrict perfluorohexanoic regulators would limit the electronics
acid (PFHxA) and products contain- industry from making semiconduc-
ing PFHxA. Small quantities of tors and other products that affect our
PFHxA are found in fabrics finished global economic competitiveness,
with C6; thus, C6 finish would be national security, and renewable
restricted. During the Call for Evi- energy technologies. Some PFAS
dence, numerous comments from uses are too big to fail.
industry reinforced the lack of an Still, PFAS contamination of
alternative for oil repellency; the use waterways needs to be addressed.
of only minor quantities to achieve The main focus should be on keeping
the desired property; and the wide PFAS out of drinking water, as
array of non-textile end-uses that opposed to keeping it out of durable
rely upon PFHxA directly or indi- performance products. TW
rectly. While derogations may be
allowed, such as for PPE fabrics, Editor’s Note: Hardy Sullivan is a sales
some textile applications are likely to manager for Thies Corp., a Germany-
be viewed as non-essential. Timing based producer of dispensing systems
to implement restrictions is unclear. and dyeing machines. Prior to Thies, Sul-
livan developed performance fabrics and
What Does The Future Hold finishes for commercial, residential and
For Textiles Made Using PFAS? automotive end-uses. He has an M.S. in
Select types of PFAS — PTFE and Textile Technology from the Institute of
short-chain fluorinated polymers — Textile Technology, and a B.S. in Textile
allow textiles to achieve levels of per- Management from North Carolina State
formance that, so far, cannot be University’s Wilson College of Textiles.
matched without those compounds. Please see TextileWorld .com for a
Superior breathability, cleanability, longer version of this article with addi-
and stain resistance all result in tional graphics and complete references.
Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 33
DYEING, PRINTING & FINISHING
How can the textile dyeing industry collectively
combat the current skills crisis?
By Andrew Filarowski
Six Practical Ways
To Close The Textile Dyeing Skills Gap
AA
lthough anecdotal evidence
exists showing the lack of criti-
cal skills and resources in the
dyeing sector, recent research
undertaken by the England-based
Society of Dyers and Colourists
(SDC) has found the true extent of
the issue — and the results suggests
that the industry really is now at a
crisis point.
An overwhelming majority of
industry players that took part in the
SDC’s recent survey, “An Industry in
Crisis: The Widening of the Textile
Dyeing Skills Gap” stated that there
is an international shortage of
knowledgeable textile coloration pro-
fessionals, with more than three
quarters of respondents describing
34 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com
SDC’s
Andrew
Filarowski
this as harmful to textile production
and quality of product.
But what is causing the issue? It’s
clear that fresh talent is not entering
the profession as once was the case,
with negative perceptions of textile
dyeing as a dirty and hazardous
industry being a key reason. This,
combined with properly qualified
staff retiring means that there is now
a “squeezed middle,” stretched very
thinly across the board.
Technical knowledge is also seen
as hard to achieve and can some-
times be undervalued by employers,
but it’s also true that people with the
chemical expertise behind the dyeing
process are the only ones able to
innovate and bring the industry for-
ward — achieving both quality excel-
lence and sustainable operations.
SDC’s research also found that
there is poor promotion of opportu-
nities within the industry, and a lack
of locally available training and sup-
port from employers in relation to
learning and qualifications. SDC’s
assumptions also were confirmed
that there is a lack of traineeships
available that offer qualifications in
the science of fabric coloration.
Further to all of this, is the prefer-
ence of textile students leaving higher
educational institutions to become
designers — rather than dyers with
an interest in the practical side — and
therefore a lack of understanding of
how color is applied to fabric.
Six Practical Steps
So, how can the industry collec-
tive combat this skills crisis before it
is too late?
Firstly, the industry must take a
more practical approach to learning
to allow a greater scope of candidates
to enter the industry, such as earn
and learn schemes and paid trainee-
ships. This will allow people to con-
tinue to make a living while
becoming qualified, thus opening up
a wider talent pool.
Secondly, part-time online learn-
ing should be made available globally,
making tuition more accessible to all
within the sector. This accessibility is
something that the SDC is spearhead-
ing, working with the industry to
make courses available to all.
Thirdly, young people should be
incentivized with higher starting
salaries to bring chemists back into
the fold, using their scientific knowl-
edge to drive the industry forward.
Whether that’s better-paid trainee-
ships, or bonuses to join with prior
qualifications in science or chemistry.
The industry needs to reward skills
accordingly.
The industry must also collaborate
collectively to lobby governments to
provide support and subsidized
training — or at least to help pro-
mote textile dyeing as a career at a The Society of Dyers and Colourists recently conducted a skills survey to assess the
national level, and made known true extent of the skills gap in the dyeing industry.
within schools as a viable and fulfill-
ing career path. perceptions on the prospect of textile shut their doors, and only larger
In addition, dyers and employers dyeing as a career. Fashion brands operations with in-house training
should work together with training can help highlight the importance of would remain — though with the
providers, with a two-way approach knowledgeable dyers at this critical scope of technical expertise severely
to information sharing, to ensure stage in the manufacturing process. narrowed.
that courses are relevant, up-to-date, Sustainability and efficiency also
and applicable to the modern-day Consequences Of Inaction will be compromised, and a dye-
dyehouse. Those with considerable Without qualified dyeing techni- house’s ability to remain compliant
dyeing skills should also take up cians, the industry will come to a with changing legislation will be
teaching and training positions to standstill because knowledge and compromised.
pass on their invaluable knowledge expertise will be lost permanently, Ultimately, the industry must both
and experience to a new generation higher processing costs will be take notice and take action to halt the
of dyers. incurred because of a lack in process widening of the skills gap and to bring
Lastly, dyehouses must engage innovation, which will result in infe- science back into the equation. TW
with those further down the supply rior end products.
chain, such as fashion brands, to edu- This paints a severe picture of Editor’s Note: Andrew Filarowski is
cate them on the importance of the what could happen if the talent crisis deputy chief executive and technical
dyeing process and how it can help within the sector is not solved. director at the England-based Society
improve their product to help change Smaller dyehouses will be forced to of Dyers and Colourists (SDC).

Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 35

People
Sanjeev Rastogi has HanesBrands, Winston- Clyde Fairfax Wilmeth Jr., owner
joined Hexion Inc., Salem, N.C., has named of Wilmington, N.C.-based Wilmeth Yarns
Columbus, Ohio, as Michael Dastugue CFO. Inc., recently passed away at the age of
senior vice president, 89. Prior to starting his own company,
Global Resins. England-based technical Wilmeth worked for L.P. Muller, a textile
fabrics manufacturer conglomerate in Charlotte, N.C. He was a
TenCate Nonwovenn has named graduate of North Carolina State Univer- Wilmeth Jr.
Protective Mark Kirkup operations sity with a degree in textile technology.
Fabrics, director.
Union City,
Ga., named Don Rusch Brieane “Brie” Olson Switzerland-
Maria was was promoted to president. based SSM
Gallahue- Gallahue- appointed PSEB Group owns PacSun Schärer
Worl Worl CEO. new director and Eddie Bauer. Schweiter
of the Mettler
BLOOM™ Sustainable Textile Denver- AG (SSM), a
Materials, Meridian, Miss., Rusch Technology based VF Olofsson Rieter Group
has named Chuck Mason Center Corp. has subsidiary,
president and CFO of Algix (TTC) at Gaston named Matt has named Per Olofsson
LLC and the BLOOM College, Belmont, N.C. Puckett managing director.
brand of sustainable Rusch will direct, manage, CFO. He will
materials used in footwear supervise and coordinate Puckett serve on the Switzerland-based
and other products. TTC programs and activi- company’s Schoeller Textil AG
ties as he oversees day-to- executive leadership team added North American
Kaylee day aspects of the center. and reports to CEO Steve Sales Directors Megan
Smith has Rendle. Fulton and Jack
joined Georgina Yu McPheron to its team.
Mehler has joined Fil Klaus Fulton will concentrate on
Engineered Doux Tex- Heinrichs customers based in North-
Products, tiles, Brook- has ern California, the greater
Smith Martinsville, lyn, N.Y., as announced Pacific Northwest and
Va., as its Las Vegas he is retiring parts of Canada.
regional sales manager, Yu sales repre- from McPheron’s focus is on
North America. sentative. Heinrichs Germany- Southern California, Col-
based orado, Utah and beyond.
Waterford, N.Y.-based Los Angeles-based A. Monforts Textil-
Soft-Tex International PacSun recently maschinen GmbH & Herculite
Inc. recently announced announced management Co. KG after almost 30 Products
three new executive changes. President years with the company. Inc.,
management appoint- Alfred Chang and Emigsville,
ments. Danielle Ignazzi PSEB Group Interim Los Angeles-based Pa., has hired
was named chief innova- CEO Michael “Mike” Barco™ Uniforms Pamela
tion officer, Christine Relich were named co- has named Ron Funk Funk as
McKiernan was named CEOs; and PacSun’s Wagenseil president manager,
chief quality officer, and Chief Brand Officer and CEO. Human Resources.
Lloyd Wilson was
appointed chief legal Carnegie Fabrics,
officer. All three managers Search the People archive Rockville Centre, N.Y.,
report to Soft-Tex Principal on-line at TextileWorld.com. has appointed Gordon
Mark Smiderle. Boggis CEO. TW

36 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com

 BulletinBoard
New York City-based shorts all branded with in Columbia, S.C. The Innovation Award®. Kim-
Ralph Lauren Corp. has FOTL’s recognizable donation helps ensure that berly-Clark Professional,
announced a deal with vintage logo. Items are school nurses and special Lenzing and SharkNinja
Major League Baseball available globally in education teachers have will compete for the honor
to design special collections stores and on Zara.com. access to gowns as children at the WOW International
in collaboration with iconic return to in-person learning. Conference that will be
teams. The first capsule For the second year in a held July 12-15, 2021, in
will include the New York row, Yorkville, Ill.-based The Association of the Atlanta.
Yankees™, Los Angeles Aurora Specialty Nonwoven Fabrics
Dodgers™, Chicago Cubs™ Textiles Group reports it Industry (INDA), Cary, Irvine, Calif.-based surf
and St. Louis Cardinals™. has won awards from the N.C., has published the brand O’Neill selected
Later collections will focus Valley Industrial Associa- eighth annual edition Mipan® regen nylon from
on other teams including tion (VIA) in the Fox Valley of its North American Seoul-based Hyosung
the Boston Red Sox™. region of Illinois including Nonwovens Supply Corp. for its O’Neill Blue
the VIA Excellence in Report. The 72-page sustainable women’s
Fruit of the Loom Operations for a company report, available to INDA swimwear collection.
(FOTL), Bowling Green, with 51 to 250 employees. members, offers capacity, Mipan regen is made using
Ky., recently partnered production and operating 100-percent reclaimed
with Zara to launch a cap- Spartanburg-based Milliken rate metrics as well as waste and is certified by the
sule collection featuring & Company recently regional trade in 2020. Global Recycled Standard
classic styles FOTL is donated more than 23,000 INDA also announced of the Control Union in
known for such as quality reuseable gowns to Richland the three finalists for the the Netherlands for its
T-Shirts, sweatshirts and County School District One World of Wipes® (WOW) energy-saving benefits. TW

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Textile World MAY/JUNE 2021 37

 Quality
Fabric
Of The Stylish,
Stylish, Functional
Functional
Month & Sustainable
Aqualung’s
Aqua
Aq ualu
ua luung ’s new
ng’s
’s ew XSCAPE
new CAPPE collection
XSCAP
SC collllec
co tiionn was
ecti
ection wass designed
des gnneed with
e ig
igne th the
w th
wi h environment
the env
n iron
irro nmeentt in
onnme in mind
m ndd from
mi room the
from the sustainable
sust
sustai
aiina
nabl
be
bl
fabric
ic choices
fabri
fabr
fabric
br oicces down
chho wn to
dow to the
he eco-friendly
the eco-f
co
o-ffrriiendly packaging.
e dly
dl p ckkag
pa agin
ingg.
in

FF
By
Rachael S. Davis,
Executive Editor rance-based Aqualung, a global
designer and manufacturer of dive
and water sports gear, just launched
the XSCAPE collection comprised
of a wetsuit, rashguards and leggings
for water sports including snorkeling,
freediving and paddling.
The 4+3 millimeter wetsuit is designed
to be thicker in places where additional
thermal protection is required, but
CONTACTS: flexibility is not an issue, such as in the
For more torso; and slightly thinner in the arms,
information about legs and armpits to increase flexibility in
Aqualung’s those areas of the body. The suits are for
warm waters between 20 and 28°C
XSCAPE
The company’s goal was to create the
collection, visit
“ultimate eco-friendly wetsuit.” With that in
aqualung.com mind, Aqualung selected Yulex® rubber
instead of traditional neoprene. The
composite wetsuit material features the
Yulex natural rubber core layer, which is
laminated to XFlex™ polyester fabric using a
Go online to
water-based Aqua- α™glue. The XFlex fabric
TextileWorld.com
is made from 100-percent recycled material.
for archived “Traceability in sustainability and
Quality Fabric confidence in high performance products
articles. led us to choose Yulex,” said Catherine
Botalla, Wear R&D manager, Aqualung.
“Yulex produces natural solid rubber from
FSC®-certified forests [Forest Steward-
ship Council], meaning there is not
deforestation, no pesticides and no
human rights violations. The Yulex rubber
we use is also cleaned from impurities,
has little to no odor, improved elongation
and protects against type 1 latex allergy.”
Additionally, the XSCAPE wetsuit
comprises a ThermoShield™ chest panel
— a fleece layer strategically placed on
the chest for additional warmth; and
SupraTex™ kneepads, for flexible, high-
abrasion resistance. The wetsuit is con-
structed with double-glued, double-thread
stitched seams that are sealed inside the
suit for comfort and to prevent bursting.
The XSCAPE collection includes a
coordinating long-sleeved rashguard and
matching leggings for women, as well as a
short-sleeved and long-sleeved rashguard
for men. The rashguards, which may be
worn as an additional layer under the
wetsuit, protect from sunburn as well as
jellyfish stings. The ultraviolet protective
top and leggings are 85-percent polyester
and 15-percent spandex, with the chlo-
ride-resistant polyester produced from
100-percent recycled plastic bottle material.
All products come in plastic-free packag-
ing and carry recycled cardboard hangtags.
“Aqualung is committed to using
environmentally-friendly materials and
processes whenever possible to help
reduce our carbon footprint, and we
made design choices to ensure the
XSCAPE collection was as sustainable as
possible,” said Laurent Boury, senior vice
president of Brands at Aqualung Group.
“The XSCAPE collection continues
Aqualung’s legacy in innovation, and their
tireless work to create the most forward
thinking and eco-conscious dive company
in the world,” said Aqualung global ocean
ambassador Philippe Cousteau Jr., the
grandson of one of Aqualung’s original
founders, Captain Jacques-Yves Cousteau.
“We all have the power to change the
world with the choices we make, and
the XSCAPE sets the new standard for
wetsuits and rash guards that are stylish,
functional and sustainable.” TW

38 MAY/JUNE 2021 TextileWorld.com

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