Advance Fashion Studies

By Hadia Bilal
Assessor: Ma’am Huma Ashraf
HN Fashion & Textile

Capsule Collection
Final Report
 Index
Sr. Contents
LO1: Introduction
1 Introduction
2 Trend Forecast
3 Current Trends
4 Capsule Collection
5 Market Research
6 Target Market
7 Client Needs
8 Social and Ethical Considerations
9 Research on designers + Mood Boards
10 Theme Board
LO2: Pattern Making
11 Machine Health and Safety
12 Developments & Selected Developments
13 Fabric Selection and Analysis
14 Patterns (1-6)
15 Pattern Analysis
LO3: Tech Pack
16 Fashion Illustrations (1-3)
17 Fabric Board
18 Technical Drawings
19 Printing Samples
20 Costing Sheet
21 Lay Plans (1-6)
LO4: Sewing
22 Mockups
23 Final Shoots
24 Final Analysis
Bibliography
 LO1: Introduction
I currently work for a company called Luna Eclipse. It was my duty as an inventive
designer to create a capsule collection of three items, consisting of five to six
functional pieces of clothing, based on the ominous Gothic concept.
Autumn/Winter will see the debut of this line. I had to create cutlines, technical
drawings, patterns, stitch mock-ups, explore materials, and work on final fabric
before I could produce the finished clothes. Multiple experiments, market and
contextual research, trend forecasts, current trends, target market identification and
needs analysis, social and ethical study, research, and mood boards were all used in
combination with this.

Trend Forecast:
The process of predicting next fashion trends is known as trend forecasting. The
forecasts enable fashion designers and retailers to foresee future trends and
accordingly plan their collections and marketing.
Using shapes, design components, colors, fabrics, and trims, trend forecasting in the
fashion industry seeks to tell a story. Designers use the reports and mood boards that
trend forecasters produce to create new apparel and accessories for brands.

Current Trends:
1. Bohemian
2. Workwear Returns
3. Gothic Romance
4. Top-To-Toe Color
5. Fringing Details

Capsule Collection:
A carefully chosen, understated assortment of market wardrobe items is known as a
capsule collection. A limited-edition product line known as a "capsule collection"
offers fast-fashion outfits that are both stylish and practical. It is a more condensed
version of a designer's idea. These collections are released by designers during the
winter months and occasionally they collaborate with well-known companies on
one-off items that are expensive, unique, and made in small batches that are sure to
sell out. These carefully picked collections also give designers the chance to create
non-traditional clothing items like bags, shoes, athleisure, lingerie, and headwear.

Market Research:
Launching a capsule collection enables you to offer a few extra pieces during the
off-season as a clothes designer as you might not be continuously producing and
distributing clothing year-round. Design a few select products, such as loungewear,
hosiery, shoes, accessories, or headgear, to go with or complement your present main
line. Reserving them for peak-season collections can help you avoid introducing too
many new fashion trends to your collection.
Production of clothing can be expensive if your company is a tiny one. You want to
avoid blowing your entire budget before the collection is even finished, so conduct
your research on production minimums and buying rates to make sure you're
obtaining the greatest price for your collection.

Target Market:
I have produced a variety of fusion capsules for my target market, who is between
the ages of 16 and 25. According to me, this age group appreciates dark trends since
they are completely capable of developing darker emotional aspects as well as a
fondness for dark color palettes and cutlines. Dark hues, though, are my choice
because they blend well with a range of attire. These days, fusion is widely employed
to make people seem better. Eastern-influenced Western cutlines gain popularity.
Compared to plain, basic apparel, clothing with prints and chains gives off a far more
refined impression. My target market, which includes both youth and university
students, wants clothing that is versatile for campuses and universities so that they
may combine any top with any pair of shorts and a cardigan.

Client Needs:
The client asked me to create three outfits, most of which used black because it
complements any look with one or two contrasting colors, like grey or green.
The customer wanted to highlight a gothic capsule line that was loud, edgy, yet
endearing like a lone wolf howling at a full moon.
Research on Designers + Mood Boards:
1. Channel x Pharrel
An urban capsule collection highlighting Pharrell Williams’ long-term relationship
with the House. The line comes in primary colors and unisex garments. Most of them
has darker shades. The collection is consisting of uppers, sweatshirts, jeans and
hoodies. This collection is one of the famous capsule collections around the globe.
The theme of this line is very evident, The wild tropical.

2. Feng Cheng Wang

Chinese designer Feng Chen Wang is known for defying the traditional through
deconstructed double-take-worthy styles that speak for themselves. The rising
designer often takes inspiration from her heritage together with past life experiences
and now presents her “Re-Work.2” capsule collection.

Acting as a follow-up to the “Re-Work” range showcased at London Fashion Week

in 2020. Inspired by childhood recollection and her compulsion for reconstructed
methods, the designer shines a light on her culture through artistic brushstroke
designs taken from her Fall/Winter 2021 collection. These are channeled via three-
in-one style T-shirts with pleated structures and a vegetable hand-dyed approach.
Hoodies and crewnecks have been slashed to create a cropped look, while items
taken from SS18’s “MADE IN CHINA” and FW18’s “THE WAY HOME”
collections are also featured. These are presented as branded tops layered with
striped shirting fabric. (Hypebeast, 2022)
3. Cherry Los Angeles - Not an Apple
Launched in late 2017, Cherry Los Angeles is known to supply its retro Americana
aesthetic splattered onto laid-back essentials ranging from hoodies and T-shirts to
bowling shirts and double-knee painter pants. The label recently delivered its
exclusive collaboration with Dover Street Market, which saw a mixture of
inspirations from ’90s American sports culture to old Westerns with a bit of L.A.
flair.
Now, the SoCal label presents its “Not An Apple” capsule collection for the chilly
months ahead. Kicking off the collection are crewnecks paired with matching baggy
cargos that feature elastic ties at the hips and ankles for a perfect fit. The former has
been stamped with a cartoon cherry logo at the left chest and rear, receiving “Auto
motivated Quality Goods” text in retro-style lettering on the backside. The latter also
dons a small branded fruit logo on the left leg.
Waterproof zip-up jackets accompany the bottoms delivered in coordinating
material options, while cropped tees for women receive a centered logo and yellow
trimmings. The range is delivered in hues of “mustard yellow,” “forest green,” burnt
orange,” “pale blue,” “pale pink” and white. (Hypebeast, 2022)
4. Pull&Bear x Warner Bros
Spanish fashion brand Pull&Bear has joined forces with Warner Bros. to surprise
fans of the upcoming film Space Jam: A New Legacy, releasing a complete capsule
collection with apparel and an extensive range of accessories dedicated to Looney
Tunes and the world of basketball.
The latest offering combines sports and streetwear influences in orange, Baby Blue,
purple and ombré shades for menswear. Prints of the Space Jam characters cover
denim patchwork co-ords, shirts, shorts, T-shirts and joggers. Gradient prints can
also be found on hoodies and Bermuda shorts sets.
The womenswear collection merges denim garments with sporty silhouettes. The
color palette features ecru and mottled grey, with orange and blue touches on
patchwork co-ords with chenille spots and straight-fit jeans with all-over prints. As
well as delivering a mottled grey cropped sweatshirt and shorts set, T-shirts, polos
and mini dresses. (Hypebeast, 2021)
5. Vetta
Vetta launched a capsule line consisting of 5 pieces that could be styled in 30 outfits.
Its more of a must have for all the women out there. The collection has very basic
color line that could be matched with any other outfit. It consists of a cute top, a
basic tank top, a long coat/blazer, wide legged pants and a long elegant dress.

Theme/Mood Board:
I chose a gothic theme for this capsule collection. I choose this theme because many
people view gothic fashion as a protest against extravagance in this day of
extravagance. It's distinguished by an abundance of dark colors, fishnets, chains,
constricting corsets, gloves, and leather. Dark, ominous, and intriguing, this genre
frequently incorporates themes of terror, tragedy, the gothic, and the odd. Power,
captivity, and isolation are typical Gothic topics and emotions.
 LO2: Pattern Making
Machine Health & Safety:
• Make sure that robust needle guards fitted and used
• Carry out a risk assessment on the provision of eye guards
• Check that lighting is adequate and stays on when the motor is switched off, eg
for safe threading.
• Vee belt and pulley drives are guarded
• Seating allows for good posture and ease of movement
• Electrical wiring is supplied from overhead or otherwise to avoid cables on
floors
• Guards should be adjusted for each individual operator's finger size
• Power should be switched off when carrying out adjustments and needle
changing
Reference: https://www.hse.gov.uk/textiles/machinery/sewing-machines.htm
Developments:

After choosing my theme and producing the mood board, I moved towards
making the developments for the final garment. I made rough sketches of the
cutlines as my developments which further were modified as my final garments
and illustrations.
Selected Developments:
So, these are my selected developments. I modified them according to the clients
need.

For my first development as per my cline need, I just

added the longer bell shaped sleeved because it is for

winters and bell-shaped sleeves are trending.

For my second development client wanted me to

eliminate the jacket. Rest remained the same, Paneled

crop top and shorts.

For my last development my client wanted me to just

design the skirt. He wanted to match it with the paneled

crop top in my second development.

Fabric Selection and Analysis:

1. Paneled Crop Top, Skirt:

My first outfit consisted of a pencil skirt and paneled crop top. Keeping my theme,

Gothic, in mind for the skirt I chose black faux-leather.

Faux leather is vegan friendly which helps in the save

animal movement. It is durable and requires less

maintenance which makes it easy to use and carry.

The biggest reason was that by keeping budget stable

we can produce a luxury looking product which can be

styled and designed in various ways. Also, Faux

leather will be a huge hit in 2023.

For the paneled crop top I chose rib-knit fabric in

green color. Rib knits do not wrinkle. The elasticity of

the structure allows the fabric to bounce back into the original shape very easily.

Rib knit is very light weight and comfortable. Gothic cutlines are mostly very tight

and edgy so rib knit was the perfect fabric for it. Client also requested for the

fabric that were easy to manufacture so the rib knit is the perfect fit for all the

requirements.
2. Kimono cropped sleeves, Crop top, Straight Pants:

My second outfit consisted of three garments. Its more

like a co-Ord set with a crop top.

For crop top I chose black faux leather. Faux leather is

vegan friendly which helps in the save animal movement.

It is durable and requires less maintenance which makes it

easy to use and carry. The biggest reason was that by

keeping budget stable we can produce a luxury looking

product which can be styled and designed in various ways.

Also, Faux leather will be a huge hit in 2023. Faux Leather

gives a very edgy look. It will have 2 long strings (twill

tape) that would be wrapping around the exposed skin.

For Kimono sleeves and pants, I chose grey fleece. Fleece

has high ability to keep warm. As the line is for winters,

fleece is the only fabric that keeps the body warm and

maintain comfort. It also has the ability to stick to the

body and at the same time remains flowy. For any capsule

collection, pieces of fleece are a must have.

3. Paneled Crop top, Shorts:

My last outfit consisted of shorts and paneled crop top. Keeping my theme,

Gothic, in mind for the shorts I chose black faux-leather. Faux leather is vegan

friendly which helps in the save animal movement. It is durable and requires

less maintenance which makes it easy to use and

carry. The biggest reason was that by keeping

budget stable we can produce a luxury looking

product which can be styled and designed in

various ways. Also, Faux leather will be a huge hit

in 2023.

For the paneled crop top I chose rib-knit fabric in

green color. Rib knits do not wrinkle. The elasticity

of the structure allows the fabric to bounce back

into the original shape very easily. Rib knit is very

light weight and comfortable. Gothic cutlines are mostly very tight and edgy so

rib knit was the perfect fabric for it. Client also requested for the fabric that

were easy to manufacture so the rib knit is the perfect fit for all the

requirements.
1st Pattern - Skirt:

Back Front Belt

2nd Pattern – Crop Top:

Front Back
3rd Pattern – Pants:

Front Back

Belt
4th Pattern – Cropped Kimono Sleeves:

Front

Back

5th Pattern – Paneled Crop Top:

Front Back
6th Pattern – Shorts:

Front Back

Belt
Pattern Analysis:
• My very first pattern was for a skirt. I started by creating a basic skirt
block for the skirt. I simply added the seam allowance because I didn't
want any flow. The seam allowance was 4 cm at the bottom and 2 cm on
one side. The grain line was considered when creating the pattern on the
fold. I had to have a seam allowance at the sides because I was creating it
out of leather. I created a belt pattern separately. The skirt is 66 cm at
the waist, 61 cm in length, and 41 cm at the bottom. The back of the
pattern had a zip notch.

• My second pattern was for a crop top. I sketched out the basic bodice for
it. As it was a crop top, I reduced the length of the bodice. After that I
gave arm hole and neckline a depth. Instead of a shoulder it had a strap
of almost 5cm at the end. The grain line was considered when creating
the pattern on the fold. The fabric I chose for it was leather so seam
allowance was important here. At the strap it has 2cm. the bottom had
1cm and sides had 2cm of the seam allowance. The length of the crop top
is 36cm, chest at 43sm, armhole is 23cm and neckline is 25.4cm in width.
It has 2 notches at the back for the strings to be attached.

• My third pattern was for straight flowy pants. I sketched out the basic
pant block. I eliminated the high waisted belt with help of darts. I made a
belt for front and back separately. Both of them had 3cm width. I gave it
a shape as it was too big. I reduced the length and gave it a folding notch
at the ankle. Fleece is a very stretchable fabric so it had 1cm of the seam
allowance and 4cm at the ankle. The waist of the pants was 66cm, length
is 90cm, ankle is 20cm and hip is 51cm. the pattern for the front and back
was made separately. I eliminated the zip notches at the side because the
pants had elastic belt.
• My fourth pattern was for a kimono cropped sleeves. We can’t call it
Kimono cropped sweatshirt because the front is quite small to be called
as a sweat shirt. I sketched a kimono pattern for it. I extended its sleeves
as per my need. I gave sleeves a bell shape because it’s trending right
now. The chest of the pattern is 46cm, sleeve 56cm, length 25cm and
neck 25.5cm. It has a boat neck and can be used as a off shoulder too. It
gave it a very edgy and gothic-y look. As it was a kimono its doesn’t have
an arm hole separately. The sleeved are attached to it and it made-on
fold.

• My fifth pattern was of a paneled crop top. For the panels I firstly sketched out
the basic bodice for front and back. To turn them into suspended panels, I
separated them from their darts. If we join their carrure line they fit perfectly.
Now I had 4 different pieces to treat separately. I firstly made the patterns for
the back. At back it was supposed to have 3 panels and at front there should
be 4 panels. So, I kept the panel with neckline at back on fold. I made the
changes in the neckline and armhole. I made sure that the shoulder matches
for all parts. Panels helped to give it a more defined shape. The fabric I chose
for this is rib-knit. Its elasticity helps to keep it in one shape. Shoulder is
11.5cm, length is 33cm, armhole is 22cm and neck is 20 cm. The seam
allowance for them is 1cm at the sides and end and 2 cm for the shoulder.

• For my last pattern of shorts, I sketched out the basic pants pattern. I
eliminated the length till its knees. I eliminated the belt with the help of
darts. I didn’t want them loose so I gave it a shape. I made a belt for front
and back separately. Both of them had 3cm width. I didn’t leave any
seam allowance at the bottom giving it a rough and edgy look. At front I
gave a flap for the zip. As it was to stitch on leather, I gave a good seam
allowance. The waist of shorts is 36cm, length is 51cm and bottom is
20cm. The pattern for the front and back was made separately. I didn’t
make any pockets for the shorts. Belt also had no loops.
LO3: Tech Pack
1st Fashion Illustration:
Fabric for Bottom: Black Leather
Fabric for Top: Green Stretchable Jersy
Extras: Thin Silver Chain
2nd Fashion Illustration:
Fabric for Bottom: Grey Fleece
Fabric for Top: Black leather for inner crop top and Grey Fleece for upper
Extras: Thin Silver Chain and Fabric Black Marker and Paint
3rd Fashion Illustration:
Fabric for Bottom: Black Leather
Fabric for Top: Green Rib-Knit
Extras: Thin Silver Chain and Motif
Fabric Board:

As this is an Autumn/Winter capsule collection, the fabrics I chose are

Leather, fleece and Rib-Knit. The color combination is black with just
two contrasting tones like grey and green.
Technical Drawings:

Crop Top with Straps

Straight Pants with Elastic

Belt
 Shorts with no pockets

Pencil Skirt
 Paneled Crop Top
Front Cutout

Cropped
Kimono
Sleeves
Printing Samples:
Lay Plan:
A lay plan is an in scale, visual representation of how your pattern pieces should
be positioned on the fabric. This leaves nothing up to interpretation for the
manufacturer. It will help you avoid fabric wastage, save money on production
time and guarantee your designs line up correctly.

1st Lay Plan:

2nd Lay Plan:
3rd Lay Plan:
4th Lay Plan:
5th Lay Plan:
6th Lay Plan:
 LO4: Sewing
Stitched Mockups:
To make sure there wouldn't be any errors in the final items, we were told to make
mockups of our selected cutlines before moving on to the clothes. Using patterns,
we first cut the fabric to the appropriate size for our designs, after which we must
add invisible zips to our outfits and properly hem each one. By using patterns, we
first cut the fabric to the right size for the design, then we hem each piece of
clothing appropriately and put invisible zips to it.

Skirt

Front Back
 Crop Top
Front Back

Cropped Kimono Sleeves

 Straight Pants

Shorts Paneled Cropped Shirt

 Capsule Collection
My collections have 3 outfits with total of 6 garments.
Final Shoot
Outfit # 1
Outfit # 2
Outfit # 3
 Final Analysis

In a nutshell, I was given the opportunity to create an entire

capsule collection for a brand on my own. I had the opportunity
to explore my creative side. As a creative designer, I started by
selecting a theme. As the gothic theme is mostly overlooked in
this time period, I decided to concentrate on it. Most children
adore this topic, yet there are hardly any fashion possibilities to
explore. I added patterns and chains, which are mainly used as
ornaments, to give it an ethnic feel. I then created developments
and choose the fabrics. I had the opportunity to improve my
market research abilities. Following that, I created patterns for
the cutlines and stitched mockups of them. It improved my
understanding of the finished item. After creating the mocks, I
went back and fixed my faults in the pattern and mockups. I have
produced my complete collection of capsules. The printing and
chains gave it a really grungy appearance. The society never
adopted gothic themes for such simple cutlines, but I did, and
the results were magnificent.

“Gothic fashion has the power to express a part of who

you are and what matters the most to you in your

heart.”
Bibliography

• Anon, (n.d.). What Is Fashion Trend Forecasting? And How It Relates To AI and
Social Media. [online] Available at: https://thetechfashionista.com/what-is-
fashion-trend-forecasting/

• published, J.C. (2022). Fashion trends 2022—the 11 styles for women you need to
know about. [online] Woman and Home Magazine. Available at:
https://www.womanandhome.com/fashion/fashion-trends-2022/

• https://www.masterclass.com/articles/capsule-collection-explained

• Hypebeast. (2022). Feng Chen Wang’s ‘Re-Work.2’ Capsule Collection Keeps

Upcycling at its Core. [online] Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2022/8/feng-
chen-wang-re-work-2-capsule-collection-release-info

• Hypebeast. (2022). Take a Bite From Cherry Los Angeles’ ‘Not An Apple’ Capsule
Collection. [online] Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2022/8/cherry-los-
angeles-not-an-apple-release-info

• Hypebeast. (2021). Pull&Bear Launches a ‘Space Jam: A New Legacy’ Inspired

Capsule Collection. [online] Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2021/7/pullbear-
space-jam-capsule-collection
• Reference: https://www.hse.gov.uk/textiles/machinery/sewing-machines.htm