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I Opemating Manual

I H-usqvarna Zig-zag mdl13


moeI13

Ix

I VI',
I S!

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I For you and
I your new
Husqvarna
We have prepared this booklet, to let you know' how
io operate this sewing machine and how to make
use of all its sewing possibilities.
We are quite sure that you will get many pleasant
hours with your new sewing nmahine and that you
will be successful in obtaining many fine results.

HIJSQVARNA VAPENFABRIKS AKTIEBOLAG

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

A,.o.:sso,ry box ,.ont.coi ..... ......32,33 Needle changing ...................... 8


Adjustment guide ............. 30, 31 Needle and thread ...................... 8
Bobbin case ..................... 9 11 Packing Unpacking thle machine .......... 4
Bobbin winding ..9 II Power gear ............................
9.......... 6I
Bluttonholes .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21, 22 Presser foot (regular) .. . . . . . . . . . 16
Button hole knife ... . . . . . . . . . . 23 Presser foot pressure . .. . . .. . . I..
!
Button reed .................. 26• Raised seam............................. 27I
Buttons. sewing on .............. 26 Regulating the stitch length, width and
('are of the imachin e . . ..... . .. . 29 position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
(hanging the light bulb .................... 29 Releasing presser foot pressure ............. 18
('banging the snap-on presser foot ............ 17 Reverse feeding (reverse stitching) ..... 19
('banging the special presser foot ........... 17 Reverse stitching ........................ 19
('leaning ................................. 29 Roller presser foot ........... 34I
(onnecting the machine to the wall ou tlet . 5 Seam ripper .............. 13
Darning foot............................ 28 Shuttle (hook) .,...,.............. 11
Edge guide .............................. 16 Slow gear .. ,,......................... 6I
Extra accessories ............ .34-39 Snap-on presser feet, changing .............. 17
Feed dog cleaning .............. 29 Special presser feet, changing ............... 17
Feed dog lowering . ......
. . . . .. 18 Stitch length dial. . . . .. . . . .. . 19
Foot Control .. . . . . . . .....
, ,... 5 Stitch width dIial ... . .. . . .. . .. . . 19
Free arm ... .... . . . . .. . . . . . 6 Stitch setting .,,. . .. . . .1..
... .. .9
(i Carshi ft . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
(iW ide plate ... . .. . ...............
1-em mer ........ ........ . . .
... ...
6
38
28
Straight stitching . . . . . . . . . . ..
Tlhread choice .. . . . . . .. . . . . .
Ih read cutter .. . ........ ........
20

13
I
Hook (shuttle) .. .,,... . . . . . ..... !I lhread tension .... ,...... . . . .. . . . 14,.15
I .ighting ............. . .. . . ...... lthread tension. upper and lower .. . . . . 1
light ,..... . ..
... . .. . .. . . ...... 5 Threading lower thread , . .... . . . . . . I
I ight ,a ch

1,0w gec r ..........


. ........
. . .. .. .
I owaer thread, bringing up .............
. .. . .. . .. ...
13
6
VIt'heading iil)pCi thread . .. . . . . .
U npaeking the mlachine .. .....
Zig-zag stitching .. . . . . . . . . . . .
12
4...
20
I
M aintenance hints ... . .. . .. . ...... 30, 31 Zipper foot .. . . . . . . .. . . . . . . 28
MVIark irg fo i}t...... . . .. . . ...... 38I

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IQ
U l
I#

I I

I. Top thread guide 14. ShtuttIce (hook 27, Reverse feedinig btitto,n
2. Thread take-u p lever 15. Door for shuttle (hook) 28. Stitch length dial
3,Da or the presser foot 16, Base plate 29, 'ontrol dial
pressure 1.Nel lm ce 0 n oe

I5. 4. Upper tratesodal1,Pesrbr3,Stitch


F•eplate
6;. Thread gtiidc
19. Needle
20. Feed dog
wdhda
32. Stop for buttonhole sewing
33. l)rop feed button
7. Thread take-up s,pring 21. Needle plate (throat plate) 34. Thread guide for bobbin xsinding

U9. 8. ~Front thIiread guide


Needle bar
I0, Presser foot screw
22. F inge rgri p for los•e riog light
23. Light guard
24, Light switch
3 5KHHole for attaching e'xtc psi on
plate
36. Blobbin winding spindle
I !, Presser foot 25. Htand w,heel 37, Gearshift
12. Free arm 26. Sy.mbols for left, iniddle and

12, Bobhini case right start ing positions

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I
Unpacking the machineI
Open the carrying case. Grasp thle machine by the
• hand waheel and un der the upper arm of the nma-

I. . . . ..
, ......

f.............
.....-•the
insonlexv move the electrical cord. Li ft the accessory box
Ihat
free arm .
upw•ards and dirawa it along thle length of

~I

Putting the machine awayI


I b ~ ~Pull
out the foot control plug. Wind tecr
{ .. ,,around
............. your hand. starting at thle contro Prs
I ,. .• ~the foot control together anti place it in tcon
• • [pa rtment with the thick end down. The Iottm o
•4 J'6 " ~ ~thecontrol should bieturned tow,ards h
foot -I
~~ch)ine and hold thle cord in place beside tefo
/

~~~in
contr'ol in the co.mpa rtnent. Winld tie othe
tihe same waas and pt he cord hand aront h
I
I.owe> the. presser foot. MIakeC sure [that all 8cc esso-
He't are correctiv placed in thle box SI ide the aceces
,sort has into> place a nd put the co}rd in the *hox.: [
Then lift thle machine into thle case. Place the
. . . ..............................
exten•sion plate inside thle case-Aid and thle piece off
foa i plastic a>, protectionl betx•een the sewing
macline and the e.xten, ion plate.

4I

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I Connection to the wall outlet
The mach ine's volt age is given on a plate at thle
back of the machine. See that ;our wall outlet ,_
v•oltace is thle same as that of the machine, Then
con nec t the machine to thle proper wall ou tiet

UConnecting the foot control


i lusI rt the: loot control plug into the socket at the
back ol thle macbine. ,

i Lighting
The switch for the lighi is on the underside of the
machine's upper arm. To lowaer the light assen1lxlI}

I
Iit order to ba e more light for detail work or for
changing the Iilight bulb, pull dow<nw•ards on the pro-
cection at the Iceft of the iglight guard ,see page 29).

* 5

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NormalI position Power gear P w rga
connected or the "low getsr" or 'gecarshift" as it is a Iso talked,
is a practical featu re. If vou grasp ihe little w,heel.
w•hich is located on the bobbin spin die on the right
side of the mach ine, and pull it outwards, the rnachi-

motor powser. Th is low* speed is of advantagei o


wish to sew• slowly stitch by st itch, for examrpe whe
blndstitch ing.
Ni

, . Free arm
"Iri ustr Itegs and sleees(5can be drawsn onto libte free
arm makin.g it easy to sew, to mend or to patch in
these parts. The free arm also makes it much easier
I to attach collars and cuffs as well ats sew small
chiiId rin's clothlis. or da in socks, and stock in gs oil
? . the machine.

'I

I
I

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II
I Extension plate
When you need a larger working surface, attach the
e xtension plate. Pull out the catch on the unde rside!
of the extension plat v x th the index finger of your
right hand. Then grasp thle extension plate support
legs with your left hand and lower them.

I
I

I
There is an indentation on thie back. of the cx ten-
sion pIa te which slhould he fit ted in to a cor respond-

ing lip on the back of thle sew•ing machine. You call


also use the extension plate with the support legs
turned uip, when hem mngrf skirts or sewing in larger

tubular parts of garments.

I ... .....
I{

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Sewing Col,oured Embroidery I Needle and thread
threadi sewing Silk thread or tNeedle
English thread thread lDarning N t,. Mercerized cotton thread as well as synthetic thread
No, No. thread
used for all sorts of fabrics. A special embroidery
I
____ __________is

60-• 60-.- 70 or darning thread should he used for decorative

No. 30 ~50 embroidery or darning thread gives


50 -60 26 100/3 40-50 g0 among other things fine buttonholes and nice de-
corative stitching;. As thle name implies, it is ofI
course also used for embroidery and darning.
40-5 6 0/3 30*0 0You will find a picture of a needle on thle inside ofi
40 •5 26
0{)/ 30 0 90the shuttle door. T]he needle system has number
705 H. Ihe machine ix fitted with needle No. 80.
40 20 I 00 You will also find a number of extra needles of
various sizes in thle accessory box.
30 10With regard to thle site of needle, it may be gener-
ally said that No. 80 90 can be used for most
fabrics. For a finer thread and for sheer and tightly
30 120 woven fabrics a fitter needle should be used in or-
: ... tier to spare the fabric.

"• • [ ~
For very heavy and stliff fabrics a coarse nleedems
be used. The higher thle number, the coare
needle. The sizes of thread and needle tobeud
Ii
are shownI on thle table.I

II ~ Changing the needleI


• • L)~~Iose.fl ite imtp scrc\• and rcna,e l•
lcedle
.... chngcd. When you insrth
neecdle 'which is to bcl
ae neelydle, turtn the flat side awsay from yx tat
is. tossards the rear of the mach ire) and push tl
needlv tp into thle nceedle ock' 1 as far a ie stp
Tighten the screw, so that thle needle is held firmly.
8

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Removing the bobbin case
ILif or remove thle e.xtension plate:, open th!e shuttle ()

I ailitate the opening of the shuttle door.


Crasp the bobbin case with the thumb and index
figer so) that the latch is depressed and draw out
the bobbin case. The bobbin will remain in the
case as long as the latch is depressed. When you
release the catch, the bobbin will be released.

Bobbin windingN

On one side of the bobbin there is a hole. Turn the

I bobbin vi th the hiole outwards and slide the bobbin


onto the bobbin spindle which is located on the: right
side of the machine. Place the thread ov•er the.' \
bo)bbin. Start from above and wind the thread a few\
Iimes a round thle bobbhin. Hold the end of the thread
while you pres,s downI the foot colntrol. Release the \
thread end as soon as winding starts. Stop winding
Ibefore the bobbin is completely, filled
(1 rm) from the ri i (outer edgc).
about 1/32 \

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I Correct and incorrect
i[][lllii[][[lbobbin
li[[[l[ winding
ound bobbin,
Vim• 1 shows a correctly x,s

If•~~on notice that the bobbin is:inding unvel

S a nfig "2, tturo the thread tension deCvice clockw.•ise


}ihthe aido thi e•e ce•r•r n h

If the w\inding looks like Jig. 3. check to see irthe


......... bobbin is properly pressed in o,n the spitldle. II this
___#• is correct, tuIrn the thread tensionl device counter*

.... clockwise until thle windirin beconmes even.

to

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I Threading the lower thread
wthtie hole upw•ards, The thread is then running"%
ashown in thle fig, Place the bobbin in its case
without turning it around.
Sdethe thread into the slot on the edge of thle
1 W. ,P

Iobin case.
Pull the thread in under the tension spring. Check
that the bobbin rotates in the direction of the arrow
I when the thread is pulled.

Insertion of the bobbin case ..


3 Set the bobbin case on to the center post off the

caefits in the notch at thle top of the shuttle cover,


Pes on the bobbin case slightly to he sure it is
lachd onto the center post of the shuttle. Let the

thed hang. Shutt the door.


X0
0'
/
I1

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....... Threading the upper thread
-Make sure that thec presser foost is raisecd. Turn theI
handwheel tow,ards, xou until the needle i,s at its
posdttm. FPla cc the spool of thread on I he
• •-highes,t
......
LJI ,/•k• left-hand spool pin and thread for sewing. Place
• ~ th hed inl the thread git ide I onl the rear of the
............................. Ihen draw the thread to the front an]d
bhv cn le tensdon discs and dow,n around the
2 • " thread g,uide 2. Now,< continue the th reading~ byI
4 drawing the thread from left-to-rieht in the slot on
the threatd take up Ic' er 3. T-hen pull the th•read
/•{, th,llrough the thread guidec coil 4.

•f , Be careful to see that the thread actuAal lv ties behind


/ ~the blaick thread guide onl the needle cia mp 5.
lihread the needle 40rom the frl'inl. Th an k to the
white field on the presser hinot clamp the needle-eve
T• ~appears very clearly and in th•is w<ay the threading
~of needle 6 is easier.

6} 3
-

12I

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* Bringing up the lower thread
Hold the threaded upper thread and. turn the
handwlheel towards you tuin i the needle goes tdown ... •

Iposition, and then up again. Whlen thec needle is inl its highest
pull the tipper threadl anti you will get a
loop of thle Low•er th read which is easy to catIchI
.

Yotu shouldn't Pull thle upper thread too hard as this 2- ....... •
* la bend the needle. / x

I >74

II

Pul thle threads about 6" t15 em) towaards thle rear.
wfththread ends are too short, the th read may
gdeout of the cxc of needle whlen you begin•g".

Thread cutter
I On Ihe back of the presser bar you w*ill find a
not cl, the tIh read cuttier, whfich makes it easy, for
yolu to cut off Ihe thlreads

U '3

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Tension of upper thread
The di' which regulates the tension of the
S
thread is graduoat ed from 0 to I 0. Normaltrd
I
/ ~~dicator is
tension point. Yourb$machine
obtained settingi thle
h]as red spottestdwh
be en at h n

the thread wh ichi aceom panies it and with thehra


............ { tension dial set at tihe red spot. it may he ncesr
!!{ -to adjust the thread tensionl somewahat if' us
ui
fl• th read of another thickness.
>:• - ~For exam pie a hen vicr-i han-ordinary• se wingtra
~~us ualy requires a heavier upper thread tensin
lhere isaliso a special mark on thet thIiread tension
is_________________ dial for the tension that can be vised for ma ki rg
but innh Ales. Tihis setting is aliso m]ost su itable for
- -close put tern stitching. monlogranmini•g, enboih r
inig, etc.

Tension of lower thread


in most special sewing eases it is sufficient to changeI
• ~onlyr the upper thread tension~ Rarely, do you need
~to adjust the low,er thread tension. If it is necessary
"]to a*djust the tensio)n o[ the low,er thread, take out theI
~~~small screwdriver from the accessory box. Fiiti
"• ~~he lai ger sereti onl the thlread te• •ri<h4
s g n
•,turn it not more thanil 1/10th of a turn to thle leftU
'>;" ~if thle thread tenr,sion, is too hard, to, the right if it
iS ttOO loIose.3

14

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* Correct and wrong thread tension
In order to easiIl, u nderstand the importance of , -- 4
correctI thre:ad tension. you can try different thread/. [,
tensions by sewing tw,o thicknesses of a scrap of
clot.
Bginby using an excessively loose tension,
asfar as it will go. Look at thle cloth and you will
fidthe lower thread lies straight and the upper \
thread is draw•n down into the lower side of the ,
cloth. If our turn the dial dow•nwards, the opposite

our.The upper thread lies straight and the lower


thread comes up in loops on the top of the cloth.
ok in thle middle of thle lay'ers of cloth. Before ]i,I [-
satng to sew, check the tension by sewing on a_. ,
pie of thle same fabric you intend to work with.

Before YOU begin to use the zig-zag stitch, cheek


tat thle thread tension is the same as when you did
straight

stitching. Use a scrap of material to see
how• the zig-zag st itches look if "you set them first on f\\

tie loosest (upper picture), then on thle heaviest "'55• '\ /\

hread tension (middle picet ure). Then finally thle


I mepitr. oretthread tension w'ill hlook like that inl thle

K\ ! ,

I ___ ____ __15

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Regular presser foot
Upper side Under side The presser foot (383) which is fitted on the machine
at delivery is used for normal straight stitching, zig-
z'ag stitching and other utility stitches. A' o a
.T ..... see, it has different notches which can bIueda
--•L] g~Luides when sewing. If you waish to haveasa

Seven
allowaance about 1/4" (7 ram), let the matra u
with the outer edge of the presser
lies to straight stitching with the needeich
Ap I
middle position). By moving one step inwards, x.ou
Will have a seam allow,ance of a bout 5 /32" (4 ram).
" The innermost notch gives a seam allowance of
2• • about 5/6i4" (2 mam).

K7'

Edge guide
You can easi lx seaw,ith waider searni allowances with
the aid of the edge guide (401I5 420) which you will
find in the accessory box. The edge guideisnerd
through the hole in the presser bar and us decrI
~~~to the bar by means of an attachment xc ex, 41I

399) which is founld in the accessory box.

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I
Changing the snap-on presser foot .I.•
I The presser feet wchich accompany the machine 7
h'ethe form of loose soles w.hich are held in place
i on th presser foot "ankile" b5 a spring, If you wish
I to change the presser foot, turn the hand wheel to-
wards you until the needle is in the highest posi ion.C
Renmove the presser foot by drawing it towards you
whlepressing s,lightly dwwrs

I
Slide the new presser foot over the front edge of
Ithe ankle bracket as shown in the illustration. There •
is a spring on the lower end of the ankle bracket.
Slide on thle presser foot so that the round trans-
iverse pin on the presser foot fits in to the space be-
tw,een the bracket and the spring. Then press lighth'
backwards and dow,nwards and the presser root will q=..,,
snpinto the correct position.

I
Changing the presser foot "ankle" -

'Certain presser feetl cannot be constructed as loose


soles and then the ankle bracket must also be
ichanged Make sure that the needle is in its highest
poiion, T'hen loosen the retaining screw w,ith your
lethand tuse the s,crc•d river if it is too tight) alnd
I remoe I le presser foot with •our right band.

[7

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~Feed dog lowering
You lower the feed dog by pressing the drop-feed
push -button inwards andc dow•nwards at the sa me
J*)g Dg <to- time so that the button is held in this position. in
order to raise the feed dog again press thebut1
(• ~~~l.ower thle feed doe w:hen soti sewa on buttoic fr

closing bars (barracks) and carrY out certai d

ing waork, enmbroidery., etc.

Presser foot pressure


Pesser foot pressur canI be adjusted wxith the aid of
a graduated dial located on the face plate on thleI
%. "..left-hand side of the. machine. Set the dial at the red
"" • point for i rnw Iapressure, but lor so me fbrisi
nitt
my be better to reduice or increase the presIr
" \\\ •--- • b4""somewhata, ie. {turn the dial to small!er h T
( 5 ), pcsI
Ic
•'\k'•'k• • lll WVhen' set ait the ss rho)l
1~~ines.5, the

-rfoot
0Releasing
~~presser
If
pressurICI completelyl disengaged. Thi
is used wahen darning w*ith darnine root.

vonturmn
foolt
foot pressureI
the eraduated dial for ad~ut>meo
presstire totlhe smlallest line¢,
ol
it
the

possible to do ni endinlg work x it h the regut a r utility


stitch presser h iot (383), Ni v the [a brie forwaruds.
1
back. wards and sidew<ays bx Ihand. lhis storkx bets

.. ................. .. * th stitch I ii etlh dial >et at zero


IxI

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I
Stitch setting
IOn the right side of the machine •,ou w.ill find the

dials which are necessary for different types of


Istitching.

1. Needle Position Dial


The upper left-hand dial is used to set the needle at
left-hand. middle or right-hand position. To be used, • • 4
fo'xample w,hen making buttonholes.

heupper right-hand dial is used to set the desired


length and it is graduated from 0- 4. The2
mir-graduation between 0) and (0,5 permits preci-
sion adjustment. 3 -

3. Reverse Stitching N ,
I In te centre of the stitch length dial is a button
fo everse. titching. B' pressing this button in-
wrsand upwards. the machine wsill sewa in reverse
i o xample when fastening the thread, but will4
reum normal forwards sewing as soon as it is releas-0
d.[or more extensive reverse stitching, for example
whnbuttonholing, you can lock the button by
pesng it inwards and downwards. It is released
",,,en 0o prcss it up;sards.

4.Sitch Width Dial


Tlhe lower dial i5 used for setting the stitch w*idth
without graduation from 0t 4.

5. Catch
The catch located on the uinders ide of the stitch
width know is to be used when buttonholing.

19

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I highesi posit ion, by turningthhnd
Iwheel towards x out. The left-hn
t di
Ineedle position control, is tobesta
Ithe middle position,. the tipprigt
Uhand dial. stitch length dial igrdI
uated from (1 4 aind should Ie
Thle low,er dial, stitch width dial.
1 ~ ~~should
he set at (i whecn st raigh! tth

ing.

... g• .. . ................ . • ............. ig z a

SBegin
Shighbest
h%placing the need'
posit ion, hx turning hehnd
It
i { ~~wheeln
t•ards you. The Iethn

set~~'at the middle position, I'cupe


iight-hand dial, stitch length da.i

I~~~osser dial. stitch width dial,soldb


Ioat the desi red stitch w idth xp-

2 :1:2/71l on ai sc:2f :::2•tril Io


/N • ._ "-,l~itch len•gth and w.,idth. TIheIr

* d wxilci the machine is rutnng

20

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ButtonholesUpeU dr
Ina order to sew, buttonholes. you should change ] lsidle side
over to the hut to nhole foot (41 I I 650). You will i
find it in. the accessory box and it is attached in theH
same way as thle ordinary snap-on presser foot, Thle1
buttonhole foot has graduated markings to help youU
make the buttonholes thle same length. ,
Loosen the upper thread tension by turning the
thread tension dial to, the buttonh ole symbol, if you •
wi .
Th button hole will look better, if you use a fine

thread. : 1 -

I-
I ..
Mark on the fabric where you want to place the
buttonhole. Always
sth sich first test sew a buttonhole andaj
etng•

Begin as usual by ma king sure th at the needle is at


tehighest position. Turn the needle position con- •
trlto tlire Ieft. Set the stitch length dial at approx-
imtely 0.3 and press in thle reverse stitching hiutton
adfasten it. .,

NOTIE: When sewing buttonholes, the reverse stitch-


en bultton inn st not be regulamted by hand.- Turn the•
sti.itc ,hh dial to 4 and slide the catch under thet

I/

21

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v Buttonholes (cont.)
(•C -• I You begin by sewing the first column. If the stitchesI
are not sufficiently close, reduce the stitch length
slightly. Stop the machine when you have reached
,2. the required length of the column. Make sure that
thle needle is free from the fabric,

$ • •]The
• next step is to forml the first closing bar. Set the
(/•@•jj•)
@ [ stitch width dial at 4 an:d release the reversstth

o-ing button, by pressing it upwards. [fold bc h


jfeeding
I fabric.th
of thle fabric and sew 3 4 stitche,T n
machine, with the needle free fo h

•I, VSet
gty tihe stitch wid th dial at 2 against stop and the

<i-i needle position control to the right. Sew•, the second


colu ma, until it is the same length as the first oneiŽ
t½g Stop the machine, with the needle free from the
fabric.

• • 7The next step is the second closing bar. Set the stitch

S ( Qflback the fabric, Stop the machine, withi the needle


._,,\•.•':5.///free from1 the fabric. I)raw the catch o;n thle stitch
%"".. •.... ....
'r'w idth dia l u pw ,ard s ai d se t li!e d in l at 0. F aste n tlile
•.thread II with a few stitches. by holding hack the
Ufabric or loweering thle feed-dog.

\N,I

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Buttonhole knife
T'he buttonhole knife (40 15 399), which you will
find in the accessory box, is equipped with a safety
cap which, when taken off, can be pushed onto the
back of the knife and thus provides a good handle.

When you have finished sewing all of the button-


hls, it is time to cut them. Do this by piercing
Ih fabric at right angles until Lhe curved edge
rahes dow•n to the buttonhole.

Then incline the knife more or less parallel to the


cloth and mlove it carefully forward so as not to cut
trou gh the end of the buttonhIiole. T7he small red
bead serves as a guide.

ttelpful hint:
Yucan also cut thec buttonhole to the middle and

thncut tlie same way from thle other direction.

23

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Reinforced buttonholes
0 ; , Garments subject to heavy wear or buttons subject
~this is how you make them:

Set the needle position control at the left-hand symn-


" bohuhThen set thle stitch length dial at 0.4. Press in
the reverse stitching button and lock it. Set the stitch

/f -.. width dial at 2 and lock it. Sew the first column in

When the column is sufficiently long, stop the ma-


chine with the needle free from the fabric. turn theI
•{• <,'needle
::" ! position control to the right-hand symbol and

i'•.''15' •upv, ards. Sew the next column without making any
"..
'\ .• "/"closing bar. Stop the machine, with the needle free
...... from the fabric, when the second column is the
c[ same length as the first one.

.............. ........ The next step is to turn the needle position control
.... ......................
'•
Q• •
i the left-hand symbol. press in the reverse stitching
to
hut ton and lock it into position. Sew the first column
I
once mor'e. If you should experience slight difficulty,
It uwith the eecdinrg. lhii cain he re medie bi
hincreasing*
the st it cl length sligh t/i

24

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The next mom'ent is to sew the closing bar. Set thle
stitch width at 4 and release the reverse stitching i
button. Sew 3--4 stitches, vutile holding the fabric • " -.
- ~~or lowering the feed-dog. Do not forget to have
thle needle free from the fabric before thle next Ni'
__

Now turn the aced Ic control dial to the right-I) nd


symbol and the stitch width dial to 2 and sew the

I ii

The butitonhole is now finished off by selling the


stitch width dial at 4. and sew• 3- 4 stitches to form • g•
the last closing ba,r, w.hile holdi ng back the fabric :
4("i]..'.i(i••

or
oweingthe feed-dog. YOU then turn thestch"":"
7gandfsten o 1f sewing at
dial to
iefbi bako
w•idth ,eg
sitce.,hl odn oeig- \--

I 25

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'VSewing on buttons
! ~~~to the symbol ( [ ) for thle left-hand statnp-

B.sition. Lower the feed dog by pressing the


push-button inwards and downwards so ta h
Ir
• button is held in this position.
Remove the presser foot, put the button inpacan
"\•lower fthe presser bar. Set the stitch width dial to a
• ':•,suitahle
.' setting about 3; most buttonshea
spacing of 1/8 "5/32" (3 4 mm) betwe th

carefully that the needle goes through tecnr


~~~of
~~~but
first one hole and th en the other. Ders
foot control without distutrbing the positio
ton. Hold both thread ends behind tlibace
h
3
~anti sew 5-6 stitches. Then move to the other holes
and reetthe poes.Set the stitch width dial

toO0 and lock the thread.U


. .... •When the button has been sewn on anti you wish toI
return to ordinary sewing, press the feed doglwr
ing button inwards/upwards, so that it get Ia
~its previous normal position.
~I

Button reed
When sewing buttons on garments, a "stem" is oftenI
~desired so that the button stands slightly away from
the fabric. You can use the button reed
for this, Use the thin end when sew,ing buon
11172
In
thin fabrics, the thick end for heavier fabris Mar
the place where the but ton is to be sew, >• n
place the garment under thle bracket withou I
ing the presser bar. Insert the button reed a hw
in the illustration, with the marking in th enr

,
of the opening. Place the button on top
the presser bar.
oe I
263

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I Raised seams
Exchange lihe ordinar> needle for a twin needle andi -_____-.---,-_________
be sure to see that it is pressed tip high into the ...
needle clamp. Change to the raised scam presser Upper Under
foot (41 11 389) and fit the raised seam attach ment side side
(40 15 427) with its straight edge towards you, If you - "[
wihto use a gimp cord, ay this under the raised
Iea attachnmernt whlen you put it on. In order to--
prvnt the threads from becoming entangled. it isH
adIsbe to thread one at a time Place a spool of '
iradon each of the spool pins and thread on both
sides of the middle tension disc. For the rest you

Ithe thread as usual, of course one threa.d in each of


needles.

i
Thnadjust the machine for straight stitching. The

the thread tension


hegto h
-the swdutdb
asdsaen fI
harder the thread tension

I
L-" t

S the higher the seam will be. If you are using a gimp
cord, first pull it out well behind the presser foot
I and then it will on l be necessary to see that it runs

freel while you are sew•ing. m•l

I
Parallel raised seams
IIf yu w\ish to sew scXCeralt
paallel seams, you can

usce thle groov es on the hot torn of thle presser foot


us edge guides. Place thle previously sewn seanm to
I lieheIleft or to the righit of the one yotu are about to
sew and let the presser foot guide the work.
" 27

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~Zipper foot
L The zipper foot (4! 12 989) can be attached so that
.,•i it comes either to the right or to thle left of thle

of the uipper without turning the work.I

~Hemmer
IThe needle is s,et at thle highest position n h
• Iwaxas,a hem merthe
(41othersunap-on
II 3185t can then he fixed in tesm
presser,feet.

You s;hotuld use hie hemmnencr when mlakr ln


• • ~hen s on fabrics wahiclh are niot lot thick. Tehm
~~~mer 41 11 385 matkes, a heml oif about 3/<16 (5 mml
~wide).

Darning foot
~~~~Set the needle to the: highes,t position andheth
dtarn ing foot (41 12 8971 can be at Iached nhexm
• T • a•s rthe
*•~~~~ax othier s,nap-on-pre•sser feet, iye. tl YH,

{• i _• ~ ~I
hect
•ilol of thec pres,&r foot is accOlIpin hdb

nic•ln'•mean
of a \ibralor. Engage the vibratorb;lrlig
, •. •. l~~~hedial bro the pre•Se loo pte>sure (t•I et

28I

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I
I Care of the machine :
In1 order to serve vou satisfactorily. your newa ,,e:ineg•
machine requires clea ning, T"he throat plate (needle .$
Iplate) should occasionally, be remov•ed andi [he teeth•

of thle feed dog brush•ed clean by means of [heI


cleaning brus,h (40 1$5555) which vou'll find in thle

IRemove
Ibox of a|ccessories.
the throat plate 1w loosecning the screwas,
The left one is accessible if the tipper handle part of
b

Ithe s,crewdriver is inserted under the face plate.

i Wenever necessar_y the bobbin case and shuttle 4.>]

compounds from the fabric can adhere to the centre


stud of th•etdbshut tIe and cause dissonaunce, in peeo
apdcenwt suchas
a :

cloth. Also check. that any thread remainders, wunnd


iaround thle stud, are remloved.- -

!Changing the light bulb /

Ion thle left side of' the* liight guard. Lo,wer the lightb
gur. Girasp the Iglight buLIb, press it inwaurds aniid
I turnthe bulb cotintcr-clock,wise.•
WVhen inserting a new light bulb, press it in to the

s,ocket as far as it will go and turn it clockw•ise.


I 2;

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Maintenance hints
In most eases poor sewing results are due to a bluntI
or damnaged neede I.therefore alw, a vs examine the
needle firts before taking any other action.

(JR CI/10'/cti' .stit'hes. a (PL SVUafn


O 1(r•qll? (JJN thcreaTrd b)reaks
1. The needle is• inecorrectlb inserted. See page 8. I. Ihe neecdle is incorrectly insert ed. See page 8.
2. [lhe needle is bent or blunt, Change the nleed Ic. 2, Ihe needle is bent or blunt.
3. The thread tension is not correct. See page 14, 3. The tipper thread is incorrectix threaded.I
4. The machine may he incorrectly threaded. See page 12.
( or+reel thlre; d ing. see pages 11 12. 4. Ilbe upper thread may be too tightlIy tensxionedc.
5. '[he needle. thread and fabric do not correspond. See thread tension pages 14 15.I
See table. page 8. 5. K nots in the thread.
6. In correct Ipa er P'read. It sh ott d be of the same 6. lbhe needle anid thread do not correspond.
thick ness as the tipper thread. See needle and thread table oin page 8.
7. l.ower thbread untevenly, wound. See Pages 9 10. 7, The hole in thle throat plate may be chipped and
8,.Bobbinl incorrect ly inserted in bobbin case. has e sha rp edges,. Polish w,ith an e mery clothI or
See page 111. change the throat plate. See page 29.
9. 1 inut or threads w•rapped a rountd ceiit re post of 8. The need Iegroove or needle eye max have too
the shuttle (page 29-). s,harp edges. Change needle, See page 8.
9•.Tii ead ina y be entangled on spool pitt

l!ii, er h*rcad breakv


I.Bobbin ease incorrectly inserted. See paget I.
1
2. Low,er th read tnav be incorrectly threaded.U
N(c die' ht'cuk .* See page 1!I
Needle is inco}rrect l,'
N inserted, See piage £ 3 I l.owcr thread too lightly, tensioned. Paces 14 1$
2. "Iethroat plate is eon loose. Tighten the throat s,how, bow, to correct this fault.
plate with Hife larger screwdriver. See page 25;' 4. Hi ibbin unevenly wonund. See pages • 10.
3. YOU tO as,,ha sc h]elped the niachite to feed
through the fatbric b} pulling it. 'Ihe needle can
then eailiy .ome against the throat plate= and I)'
'> ltobL•tL ewonli {c to full. Sec pages, U) It.
6. Thro>at plate bole damaged. P'olish it ,'tith/ an
eretlt. cloth• or change the throat plate, see pane
I
broken, 20t
4. Incorrect lenegh of needle. L. se klAt.sqxarnal 7}5 II I ..tnt or ib readl wrappedi around centre post .otthe
or 151 fengh. shuttle (page 2i.
30I

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* l,ou thre'ad just brought up by the upper thread The sean is too loose. Fabric'layers not

3 The thread tension is too slack. The adjustment of


the thread tension is illustrated on pages 14 15.
Un,ev'en thread tension
Th is may be due to poor thread qtatli ty.

Irregular bobbin wtinding


I. The bobbin is not pressed in far enough. M'!achine does nor feed the fabric
See page 11.
2. The machine is not. correctly threaded for bobbinTesic egh ili e n0
windng
92. Se pae The feed dog might be low,ered. Raise it by press-
ing the feed dog 1o'•ering button upwards. Sec
3. The thread guide for bobbin w•ind igc is not cor- pg ~otpesr a aebe eesd

See page 18.


Fabric puckers
T.he upper thread is tool tightl\ tensioned. Correct
upper thread tension is illustrated onr page 15.
2. 10 ppe.r andl lower thread tension too tight in re-
ila tion to the thickness of the fabric. See page I5.
I Machine runs s'lug gxshlv
1. Dirt or lint have got under the throat plate.
St itch leng;Lth U/v Crie l,oosen the throat plate and brush clean between
I1. The feed dog is choked by dust and drirt. (?lean the teeth of' the. feed dog.
it w,ith the special brush or small screwdriver. 2. Dirt or lint have got into the shiu It I. Take out
SSee page 29. the bobbin and bobbin case arid brush clean with
I2. The presser ro)ot pressure is released, See page 18.
3. Not enough pres,ser foot pressure. Page 18.
special brush.
3. Wall outlet voltage might be too low.

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~Contents of accessory box

40) 15 427
.Raised seam
cord guide
v'it hotal cord.

41~8 I

S"presser foot.I
-- three gzrooves.

-- ]I

'1
41I 1341 ½2897?4 I298')

II3341 I1 651) HLJirn&tlI lb Doh 2fot Zpprfol

Regulat pTesset /ltlh i o t ( tm otI lfigfut ipIfo


f fo r ts t i i r mc f o , ~, it h or wi t hu tu
ato I
ithefool
o i t edi If Ttigh 'at isrti
ottl thle ma/{ch{ine 'Xl 'hi teI

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~Contents of accessory box

40 I5 399 Hulloohole krtiee (seam ripper).


41 II 399
At\tachment s,,:re"..

40 I5 420 Edge gwJde.!

14 10
7

1 41 12 699 I arge scre• dl' or

1 t
i41 I 1 732 Button reed. 41 J2 97

Small Ncrewdlriver,

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Extra accessories _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

, //
JiI

41 11 384, Siraight stitch jointed hemmer, 5/64" 41 11 385. Jointed hemmer 3/16" (5 ram), straight
(2 mm). and z'ig-7ag stitching.

7<<

41 Ii 386. Jointed hemmer for scalloping,. 1/8" (3


in in. zig-zag anid hard tension. Suitable for soft
41 13901. Roller presser foot is suitable for thick
knitted fabrics and certain jersey and stretch fabrics.
I
iii te-ri l1 for example, imiIa tion leatlher anld plastic.3

34

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I Extra accessories

/2 //

41 11 388. Jointed presser foot, 1 groove, for raised 40 93 022. Piping attachment. Insert the cord be-

se.ar, with or w,ithout cord. twceen the layers of the material,

- '": .i+r ,, :,:

4093 005. Presser loot for attaching braiding, which 4093019. Presser foot for gathering. Gather the
is, inserted dihrough a 2uidt. and attached with a maaterial as you sew, the harder threald tension. the
straight stitch in the nmiddic of the braiding. more the gathering.

I 35

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gExtra accessories

40 > 67 Hesttcer.Pu te frkbewen io 41 12683. (juttine needle No. 100 xsrdth for sewing
la rfmtrilwihaesw tgefer ih inlleather.

cf the t S.A.
Illalling).
'hemstitching'' may have a different I

*412 6285-01. No. 80. 41 12 685-012, No•. 91). 41 12I


*685 ~03, No. I005lt)S[ted, tcedlcsor" pa pie 'sit h 41 12•
( W , nedle
\\hi. t produces• athem stitch ef]ccei
,
* i m pai•l
r ed] viJsi .It he le c xc is
needlct i ed w ith1 a,
su pplD (a ni h e used fo r iig-ia/g st[itch inlg ,1III
a rid p att ern*'I
slot. When threading, pass the Ihread alonlg thle
needtle, utl thet
!Ith[read g]•lides Into theC slot
I

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UExtra accessories

40539 Pe,t 4093 015. Pres- 41 11 394. Pres- I 4) I2484 12 988WPrs


e foot for Sit footl extra ser fot extra Roller presser 5cr foot for
ztppers, welts spectial xiraight stitching in thin footon.tict
or weling. stitching. einanylos,
t rit

V Ij For making closing

bars armu ad holes, for-


(• example eyelets in belts,
the feed dog is
m cov,ered by a plate.
~hole-diameters,
401 80 40 15454 Plate for darning and ema* 40 15 423 Throat plate for eyelets 9/64'

needle hole. for straight sttich- especially in thin fabrics. 40 I5 432 Throat plate for eyelets
veyorthn fbris,
mg oos 40 0 56 resser f'oot with roti d needle 'V16" 5 mm).
hoe secal}for straight stitching, 40 I5 433 Throat plate for eyelets
dann,embroidering. etc. 7<32" (6 mm).

409 2 rme with 4" (10 cm) dia- 40 15 398


4eter or dar37g ae embroidery. F:ramle with 2 >32"
Prese foo for sewn teen 3 2te d m it
foram " it5 cm) din-
h tgan (5.5 cm) diameter for
bttttons auo fd sewith hilremtr[o ann n embroidery - darning and
buton tidhtrons wihhg 09 3 •m ,ih8" (20 cm) dia- embroidery.
edges. m]eter fotr dtrnt g andI emhrolidervy

37

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Extra accessories_ _ __ _

i I

~~41 I1 866. Glide plate for 41 11 383 for the regular


~presser foot,
41 11 621-03. Twin needle No. 90 with 5/64" (2 ram) Peel off the protective paper and press the self-
needle dis,tance. adhesive side of the glide plate against the underside
41 1I!621-01. Twinl needle No. 90 wit 1!/8" (3 ram) of the presser foot. U
needle distance. 1The glide plate can be. used when sewing oil foami-
41 11 621-02. Twin needle No, 90 with 5/32" (4 mm) Iplastic. plastic-coated fabrics and imitation leather,
needle distance, to minimize the risk of these materials adhering the
For parallel and raised seams. presser foot. ['or other friction sutrfaces you can also I
NOTE: Maximum stitch width setting for zig-zag use silicon-spray, 41 12 405.I
and pattern stitching, 2.5, 1.5 and 0 respectively.

41 t4243 (tide plate.


• • Zipper f oo.

for
41199

4[ 4.244, Glide plaoc. 41 12405


41 13 931 Markingz foot, Wivth theg adlt of this fotto 3ulto•,lhoIe toji.
you can/ tranIsfer the' seam-guide m•arkinlgs from theI
paper pattern to the fabr+ic.

38

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I Extra accessories

I~ It

41 11 882. Bias binder. Can he used for folded as 4093 020. Ruffler. C?an be set for gathering or
well as unfolded edgings tip to a width of 15/16" puckering at every, every, 6th or every 12th stitch.
(24 mm).

Ithe 40 15813. Attachment for circular sewing. Stretch


fabric over an embroidery hoop. place a thumb-
tack in the middle as a pivot and attach the guide
41 13 458011..t 3/16" (30 mm). 4113 4581)2,1 25/32"'
(45 mm). Weaver\s reed for rug sewing. Wind the
yarn over the reed and sew on with straight stitch.

ove~r the pivot thumbtalck. Special presser foot for rug sewing 41 11 394.

I 39

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Husqvarna I
41 14 ~25>6A I

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