Rough Guide Directions Lisbon

Lisbon
DIRECTIONS
WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Matthew Hancock
WITH ADDITIONAL ACCOUNTS BY
Amanda Tomlin
NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

www.roughguides.com
2
Colour Maps
• Lisbon
• Central Lisbon
• Lisbon Metro
• Around Lisbon
3
Contents
Eastern Lisbon....................................................94–97
Introduction 4
CONTENTS
Cais do Sodré and Chiado................98–104
Bairro Alto ........................................................105–113
Praça do Príncipe Real and

Ideas 9 around ..............................................................114–117
São Bento, Estrela and Lapa ....118–122
The big six sights ..........................................10–11
Alcântara and the riverfront ....123–127

Get moving ............................................................12–13
Belém ................................................................128–135
Viewpoints ..............................................................14–15
Avenida da Liberdade and

On the waterfront ..........................................16–17
around ..............................................................136–140
Historical Lisbon ..............................................18–19
Parque Eduardo VII and

The best museums ......................................20–21
the Gulbenkian.......................................141–145
On the tiles ............................................................22–23
Northern Lisbon ........................................146–149
Churches and cloisters ............................24–25
Parque das Nações ..............................150–154
Doms and donnas ..........................................26–27
Sintra ......................................................................155–161
Outdoor Lisbon ..................................................28–29
The Sintra Coast, Queluz and
Literary Lisbon ..................................................30–31
around ..............................................................162–166
Manueline to modern ................................32–33
Cascais and Estoril ................................167–171
Weird structures ..............................................34–35
South of the Tejo ......................................172–178
Luxury hotels ......................................................36–37
Local cuisine ........................................................38–39
Traditional eating ............................................40–41
Views to feast on ............................................42–43
Accommodation 179
Caffeine fixes ......................................................44–45
Hotels ....................................................................181–190
Best bars ..................................................................46–47

Hostels..................................................................190–191
Lisbon beat ............................................................48–49

Campsites........................................................................191
Gay and lesbian Lisbon ..........................50–51
A year in Lisbon................................................52–53
Good buys ................................................................54–55

Essentials 193
Kids' Lisbon ..........................................................56–57
Sporting Lisbon ................................................58–59

Arrival....................................................................................195
Ethnic Lisbon ......................................................60–61

Information ....................................................................196
Day-trips ...................................................................62–63
City transport ................................................196–198
Festivals and events ............................198–199
Directory ............................................................199–202
Places 65
The Baixa ..................................................................67–71
Language 203
Rossio and around ......................................72–79
The Sé and around ....................................80–83
The Alfama and the riverfront ......84–88
Castelo, Mouraria and Graça ..........89–93

Index 209
4
Introduction to
Lisbon
INTRODUCTION
Set across a series of hills overlooking the broad

estuary of the Rio Tejo (River Tagus), Lisbon’s
stunning location and effortless beauty immediately
strike most first-time visitors. It’s an instantly likeable
place, a big city, with a population of around two
million, but one that remains human enough in pace
and scale to be easily taken in over a long weekend.
Although officially the city dates from the late
European Union’s least eighteenth and nineteenth
expensive capital, Lisbon centuries.These days, apart
was once one of the from its individual sights,
continent’s wealthiest cities, the biggest attraction has to
controlling a be its streetlife: nothing
maritime empire that beats watching the city’s
stretched from Brazil in the comings and goings from a
west to Macau in the east. pavement café over a
Many of this era’s grandest powerful bica coffee or
buildings were destroyed in Portuguese beer. Alongside
the Great Earthquake of the cobbled streets and
1755, and much of today’s crumbling mansions are
When to visit
Lisbon is comfortably warm from April to October (average daily
temperature 20–28ºC), with cooling Atlantic breezes making it less hot than
Mediterranean cities on the same latitude. Most Lisbon residents take their
holidays in July and August (27–28ºC), which means that some
shops, bars and restaurants close for the period and the
local beaches are heaving. Lower temperatures of
22–26ºC mean September and October are good times
to visit, as is June, when the city enjoys its main festi
vals. Even in mid-winter it is rarely cold and, as one of
Europe’s sunniest capitals, the sun usually appears at
some stage to light up the city.
Contents Introduction
5
INTRODUCTION
street scene
Lisbon
countless cosmopolitan bars negotiate its hills, Lisbon is a

and restaurants, many of great place to explore on
them influenced by the foot: get off the beaten track
tastes of immigrants from and you’ll find atmospheric
Portugal’s former colonies. neighbourhoods sheltering
The city’s buoyant nightlife aromatic pastelarias
scene is just as eclectic, (patisseries), traditional
ranging from the
traditional fado
clubs of the
Alfama district to
glitzy venues
playing African
Gardens
and Brazilian
beats.
Gulkenkian
If you’re fit
enough to
INTRODUCTION 6
grocers
Baixa
shops, and shuttered houses riding a ferry across the
faced with beautiful azulejo breezy Rio Tejo, or speed
tiles. Getting around by ing across town on the
public transport can be fun underground metro, whose
in itself, too, whether you’re stations are decorated with
cranking uphill on one of adventurous contemporary
the city’s ancient trams, art.
Should city life begin to
Restaurant
pall, take the train out to

the beautiful hilltop town
of Sintra, northwest of
Lisbon, whose lush
menu of the day
wooded heights and royal

palaces comprise a
UNESCO World Heritage
site. Alternatively, the lively
beach towns of Estoril and
Cascais are just half an
hour away, with the best
beaches lying south of the
city, along the Costa da
Caparica, where Atlantic
breakers crash on miles of
superb dune-backed sands.
Further south still, the
popular resort of Sesimbra
sits at the edge of the
craggy Arrábida nature
reserve.
7
 LISBON AT A GLANCE
INTRODUCTION
area rubs shoulders with the more
Arco
earthy riverside district of Cais do

Sodré.
da Rua Augusta, Baixa
Bairro Alto
The upper town, northwest of
Chiado, and best reached by one
of the city’s unique elevadores
(funicular railways), shelters some
of the city’s best restaurants, bars
and clubs. Further west, the
redeveloped Alcântara docks is
another nightlife hub.
Bairro
Alto street
Baixa
The eighteenth-century grid of the
lower town is enclosed by hills
and linked to the surrounding
districts by a network of cobbled
streets. Its elegant squares, filled
with cafés, buskers and hawkers,
form the hub of central Lisbon’s
daily activity.
Alfama
East of Baixa, this is the oldest,
most traditional part of Lisbon, a
village within a city, whose steep,
whitewashed streets are so
narrow that vehicles can barely Belém
enter. Overlooking it is a craggy West along the Tejo, this historic
hill topped by the leafy shell of the suburb, 6km from the centre,
Castelo de São Jorge. was where many of Portugal’s
great maritime explorers set sail
Chiado and Cais do Sodré
Immediately west of Baixa,
Lisbon’s most elegant shopping
Flower
seller, Cais do Sodré
Rua Vieira Portuense, Belém

INTRODUCTION
Overlooking the Alfama at dusk
8
to explore the new world. The

turreted Torre de Belém has
become Lisbon’s most
recognizable landmark.
Fundação Calouste
Gulbenkian
North of the centre, this is an
das Nações
outstanding museum and cultural

complex with an extraordinarily
rich collection of ancient and
modern art.
Parque
Parque das Nações

Five kilometres east of the capital,
this futuristic park occupies the riverside theme park, with Europe’s
former Expo 98 site, and has second largest oceanarium just
developed into a hugely popular one of its attractions.
Ideas
Contents Ideas
10
The big six sights
Lisbon is not known

for one particular
sight, but boasts a
range of must-see
attractions from the
ultra-modern
Oceanarium to the
ancient Alfama
district. All are
within thirty minutes
of the centre, which
means you can
comfortably visit all
six sights in a long
weekend. Lisbon has the
lowest cost of living of any
EU city, so the entry fees Fundação Calouste
will barely dent even the Gulbenkian
From Ancient Egyptian to René Lalique via
tightest budget. Jean-Antoine Houdon: one man’s
astonishing private art collection housed
in a stylish cultural centre.
� P.143 � PARQUE EDUARDO VII
AND THE GULBENKIAN �
Castelo de São Jorge

Originally a Moorish castle and later a
palace and prison, the ruined castelo is
now a tranquil haven with a bird’s-eye
view of the city.
� P.90 � CASTELO, MOURARIA
AND GRAÇA �
Contents Ideas
11
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

A monastery built to commemorate Vasco
da Gama’s discovery of a sea route to India,
with flamboyant Manueline architectural
features.
� P.129 � BELÉM �
Alfama
Lisbon’s village in the heart of the city, a
higgledy-piggledy maze of steps and
tortuous alleys where life continues much
as it has for centuries.
� P.84 � THE ALFAMA AND
THE RIVERFRONT �
Torre de Belém
Another superb example of the Manueline
style, this ornate tower was built to defend
the mouth of the Tejo river and has become
the tourist board’s icon for Lisbon.
� P.132 � BELÉM �
Oceanário de Lisboa
Europe’s most spectacular oceanarium, with
a massive high-tech central tank containing
all forms of sea life, from otters to sharks.
� P.152 � PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES �
Contents Ideas
12
Get moving
Lisbon differs from Trams

most cities in that Lisbon’s five remaining tram routes are
worth taking for the ride alone, though
getting around really fortunately all the trams ply useful routes
is half the fun. With for tourists.
� P.197 � ESSENTIALS �
some of the
steepest urban
gradients in Europe,
the city has
developed a fleet of
funicular railways and
street lifts that crank up
and down some of its
back-breaking hills. Most
of the funiculars date back Elevador da Santa Justa
Lisbon’s answer to the Eiffel Tower, a
to the nineteenth century giant street lift whose iron latticework
or early 1900s, as do the dominates this section of the Baixa
district.
wonderful trams whose � P.69 � THE BAIXA �
routes skirt the central
areas. Getting out of the
city is also enjoyable,
either by taking the train to
Cascais or by crossing over
the broad Tejo estuary on a
ferry.
Contents Ideas
13
Elevador da Bica
The city’s most atmospheric funicular,
starting under a hidden arch and gliding up
a precipitous residential street.
� P.99 � CAIS DO SODRÉ & CHIADO �
Ferry to Cacilhas
Take the short, blustery commuter ferry to
Cacilhas from Cais do Sodré across the Tejo
for great views back over the city.
The toy train, Belém
� P.172 � SOUTH OF THE TEJO �
The toy train is a quirky way to get around
Belém’s sights – great fun for children or
those who are kids at heart.
� P.133 � BELÉM �
Elevador da Glória
Linha de Cascais Save your legs for the dance floor by taking
The spectacular train line from Cais do the funicular route up to the Bairro Alto, the
Sodré hugs the contours of the Tejo on the “high district” and home to the city’s best
way to the beaches of Cascais, at times bars and clubs.
coming so close to the water that waves
� P.106 � THE BAIRRO ALTO �
splash the tracks.
� P.168 � CASCAIS AND ESTORIL �
Contents Ideas
14
Viewpoints
Old Lisbon’s houses
and churches are
tightly packed
across a series of
hills facing the Tejo.
At times it is easy to
forget what a
Miradouro de Santa Luzia
beautiful natural position The best place to see over the terracotta
rooftops of the Alfama and the eastern
the city occupies, then riverfront.
suddenly a glimpse of a � P.86 � THE ALFAMA AND
staggering vista is revealed THE RIVERFRONT �
between two buildings or

down a steep street. The
best views, however, are to
be had from strategically
placed miradouros, or
viewpoints, usually
frequented by the elderly
for animated games of
cards or dominoes, and the
latest gossip.
Miradouro de Santa
Catarina
Tucked-away miradouro offering dazzling
views of the western riverfront. A popular
hang-out for Lisbon’s alternative crowd.
Contents Ideas
15
Miradouro de São
Pedro de Alcântara
A broad, tree-lined viewpoint from where
you can gaze down on the Baixa and the
castle opposite.
Elevador de Santa Justa

Not for vertigo sufferers, but ideal for a
hawk’s-eye view of the old town and the
river.
� P.69 � THE BAIXA �
Miradouro da Graça
Viewpoint on Lisbon’s highest hill, from
where you can admire the castle and
survey the whole of the city.
� P.91 � THEALFAMA AND
THE RIVERFRONT �
Parque Eduardo VII

The top of the park offers an exhilarating
panorama encompassing Lisbon and
beyond, as far as the hills of Arrábida.
Contents Ideas
16
On the waterfront
The Tejo was the

departure point for
some of the world’s
greatest explorers.
But surprisingly for
such a great
maritime city,
Lisbon’s waterfront
was largely
neglected until the
late twentieth
century, when its Parque das Nações
The former Expo site has evolved into one
crumbling of Lisbon’s most popular waterside
suburbs, with modern housing, cafés,
warehouses and docks restaurants and attractions all boasting
were given a complete fantastic Tejo views.
makeover. Now the Tejo
has become a focal point
once more, with waterside
clubs, cafés and
restaurants offering great
outdoor terraces facing the
river, so wide at this point
that it is known as the
“Sea of Straw”.
Praça do Comércio
Historic Lisbon’s riverside heart, a
beautiful arcaded square and once the
site of the royal palace.
Contents Ideas
17
Doca de Santo Amaro

An attractive marina towered over by the
Ponte 25 de Abril, a lively place for a drink
or meal at any time.
� P.124 � ALCÂNTARA AND
THE RIVERFRONT �
Cais do Sodré
Slightly down-at-heel ferry and train
interchange with highly atmospheric river
side walks.
� P.98 � CAIS DO SODRÉ AND CHIADO �
Belém
Developed by Salazar
during a wartime Expo,
the suburb of Belém has
enough museums and
attractions to warrant a
full day-trip.
� P.128 � BELÉM �
Contents Ideas
18
Historical Lisbon
Olisipo was the

administrative
capital of Roman
Lusitania, but the
city grew up under
the Moors, who
occupied the city
from 711 to 1147.
The Moors were
driven out by
ruthless Christian
crusaders in 1147
when Afonso
Henriques became
Portugal’s first king. Within
400 years, Lisbon had Alfama
This was once the centre of Moorish
become an economic Lisbon, named alhama (hot springs) after
powerhouse thanks to its the waters that rose here.
opening up of trading � P.84 � THE ALFAMA AND
THE RIVERFRONT �
routes around the world,
and sumptuous Padrão dos Descobrimentos
monuments and churches Belém means “Bethlehem”, and this
angular concrete monument
were erected as symbols of commemorates the birth of the journeys
to the new world in the fifteen and six
its wealth. But its golden teenth centuries.
age ended with the 1755 � P.132 � BELÉM �
earthquake, and most of
today’s older buildings
were built in the late
eighteenth and nineteenth
centuries.
Contents Ideas
19
The Baixa
Europe’s first great example of Neoclassical
urban planning, the downtown area was
built over the rubble of Lisbon’s calamitous
earthquake.
Ponte 25 de Abril
Built in 1966, this towering suspension
bridge was originally called Ponte de
Salazar after the dictator who ruled the
country with an iron fist for much of the
twentieth century.
THE RIVERFRONT �
Euro 2004
Holding the finals of the Euro 2004 soccer
championships is the latest jackpot for
Lisbon, following on from being European
Capital of Culture in 1994 and hosting Expo
98. Benficas Estádio da Luz is its main
Avenida da Liberdade venue.
This palm-lined avenue, laid out in the
� P.148 � NORTHERN LISBON �
1880s, created a new city axis, allowing
Lisbon to spread north and away from the
river.
� P.136 � AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE
AND AROUND �
Contents Ideas
20
The best museums
For a relatively small Centro de Arte Moderna

city, Lisbon has Some stunning works of modern art from
the best of Portugal such as Paula Rego,
quite a plethora of with an increasing British presence,
including Anthony Gormley.
museums. Many are
of specialist interest AND THE GULBENKIAN �
or downright dull,
but a few compare
favourably to the
best in the world.
For around e3 a
museum, you can
enjoy many of
Europe’s finest
painters and
sculptors and view some of
Portugal’s greatest artists
throughout the ages.
Lisbon is also gaining a
reputation for
contemporary art and
design, with two excellent
centres for modern art and
its own design museum. Museu Nacional
de Arte Antiga
Portugal’s national gallery, with sumptu
ous works by the likes of Nuno Gonçalves
and Hieronymus Bosch, alongside applied
arts from Portugal’s former colonies.
� P.120 � SÃO BENTO, ESTRELA
AND LAPA �
Contents Ideas
21
Museu da Marinha
All you ever wanted to know about the
Portuguese maritime explorations, battles
and boats.
� P.130 � BELÉM �
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

Virtually an A–Z of the history of art, from
4500-year-old Mesopotamian cylinder seals
to the Impressionists, all set in a delightful
park north of the centre.
Museu de Arte Moderna,

Sintra
Small but richly stocked modern art
museum with a line-up featuring Gilbert
and George, Jackson Pollock, David
Hockney, Warhol and Jeff Koons.
� P.159 � SINTRA �
Museu do Design
A history of modern design from the 1930s
to the present day, taking in marshmallow
chairs, kitsch designs and Philippe Starck
pieces.
� P.131 � BELÉM �
Contents Ideas
22
On the tiles
Beautiful decorative Palácio dos Marquêses da

tiles – azulejos – Fronteira
This seventeenth-century palace is
can be seen all over lavishly adorned with azulejos, including a
whole room outlining scenes from the
Lisbon, both inside Restoration Wars with Spain.
and outside houses, � P.148 � NORTHERN LISBON �
churches, cafés and
even metro stations.
The word derives
from the Arabic al
zulecha, “small stone”, and
the craft was brought to
Iberia by the Moors in the
eighth century. Changing
technology and fashions
have led to various styles
of azulejo panels, including São Vicente de Fora
religious imagery, The church cloisters contain superb early
eighteenth-century azulejo panels, some
decorative tiled walls illustrating the fables of La Fontaine.
known as tapetes (rugs), � P.95 � EASTERN LISBON �
Rococo designs and
satirical portraits. Useful
both for insulation and
decoration, tiles continue to
be used on buildings to this
day, though most are now
factory-produced imitations
of the old hand-painted
forms.
Contents Ideas
23
The metro
Cais do Sodré is just one of many metro
stations displaying adventurous
contemporary azulejos.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo

Fascinating museum tracing the
development of the azulejo, set in the
church and cloisters of Madre de Deus.
� P.96 � EASTERN LISBON �
Cervejaria da Trindade
Cavernous beer hall decorated with lovely
nineteenth-century azulejos showing the
elements and seasons.
Rua da Trindade
A very Portuguese way to decorate your
house: nineteenth-century tiles depicting
science and progress.
MAP � P.105 � THE BAIRRO ALTO �
Contents Ideas
24
Churches and cloisters
Though the religious Sé

centre of Portugal is Lisbon’s cathedral is one of the city’s
oldest buildings, built in the twelfth
Braga, in the north, century and sitting right on Lisbon’s most
picturesque tram route.
the Catholic
� P.80 � THE SÉ AND AROUND �
Church has had a
huge influence on
Lisbon’s
development.
Historically, more
money has been
lavished on religious
structures than
almost anything else
and many of the
solidly built
churches withstood
the devastating
earthquake of 1755.
As a result, today’s Convento do Carmo
churches are some of Partly ruined in the 1755 earthquake, this
fourteenth-century convent now houses
Lisbon’s oldest and most the wonderfully eclectic Museu
rewarding places to visit, Arqueológico do Carmo.
rich in architecture and � P.107 � THE BAIRRO ALTO �
azulejos tiles. Most of them

are free to enter and are
open daily; feel free to
walk in and look around,
but remember to be
respectful and dress
appropriately.
Contents Ideas
25
Santa Engrácia
This prominent domed church took some
three hundred years to complete; now the
Panteão Nacional, it is the last resting
place of Amália Rodrigues, Portugal’s most
famous fado singer.
Igreja de São Roque

The ornate Capela de São João de Baptista
here is testimony to the power of the
church: built to gratify the pope, it is, for its
size, the most expensive chapel ever
constructed.
� P106 � THE BAIRRO ALTO �
Basílica da Estrela
One of Lisbon’s most handsome churches,
overlooking the gardens of Estrela.
� P.119 � SÃO BENTO,
ESTRELA AND LAPA �

Recently renovated, the cloisters of Belém’s
monastery are considered the most
beautiful in the country.
� P.129 � BELÉM �
Contents Ideas
26
Doms and donnas
Before Dom Manuel
I was forced to flee
the country, leading
to the declaration of
the republic in
1910, Portugal’s
doms and donnas
(kings and queens)
led a lavish lifestyle
in a series of
palaces in and
around Lisbon. Little
is left of Lisbon’s
main royal
palaces, which stood in

the Castelo de São Jorge
and later Praça do
Comércio, but numerous
summer residences still
remain. It wasn’t just
Portuguese royalty who
lived in splendour; many of
Europe’s wealthiest
individuals also set up
camp in the region,
especially around the cool
wooded slopes of Sintra. Palácio da Assembléia da
República
This imposing palace houses Portugal’s
national assembly, in the building that
was once the convent of São Bento.
� P.119 � SÃO BENTO,
Contents Ideas
27
Palácio Nacional, Sintra
One of Portugal’s oldest and most beautiful
palaces, built in the fourteenth century and
containing classic Portuguese interior decor.
� P.155 � SINTRA �
Palácio da Ajuda
Construction of the palace was never com
pleted, although this did not stop its nine
teenth-century royal tenants from kitting it
out in extravagant style.
� P.134 � BELÉM �
Palácio de Queluz
Palácio da Pena, Sintra This elegant eighteenth-century palace is
Disney-esque nineteenth-century palace one of Portugal’s greatest Rococo buildings,
high in the Sintra hills, whose furnishings with extensive formal gardens.
remain untouched since the last royals fled � P.165 � SINTRA COAST,
in 1910. QUELUZ AND AROUND �
� P.157 � SINTRA �
Contents Ideas
28
Outdoor Lisbon
Lisbon does not

have a surfeit of
green spaces, so its
parks and gardens
are highly prized.
Nearly all outdoor
spaces have a café
or kiosk of some
sort to buy drinks
and most have a
play area for young
children. All are
abundant with rich semi Parque Eduardo VII
tropical foliage, making The sloped, formal city park edged with
neat topiary shelters two cafés,
them ideal shady spots to hot houses and a couple of small lakes.
escape the city heat. Take � P.142 � PARQUE EDUARDO VII
care in the larger parks
after dark, however, when
they become the haunts of
prostitutes and drug
addicts.
Jardim Botânico
Portuguese explorers introduced many
plants to Europe from around the globe,
and a fair proportion can be seen in these
ten acres of hidden gardens containing
around 15,000 species of plants and
trees.
� P.115 � PRAÇA DO PRÍNCIPE REAL
AND AROUND �
Contents Ideas
29
Parque das Nações

The former Expo site is one vast traffic-free
area, embellished with trees, gardens and a
new park stretching to the huge Vasco da
Gama bridge.
Praça do Príncipe Real

Not just a pretty space, this leafy square
hides an underground water museum.
� P.114 � PRAÇA DO PRÍNCIPE
REAL AND AROUND �
Jardim da Estrela
One of Lisbon’s loveliest parks, with a lake,
a bandstand and paths weaving through
vibrant gardens and among towering palms.
AND LAPA �
Praça das Amoreiras

Small but tranquil tree-shaded square
edged by the arches of the Águas Livres
aqueduct.
AND AROUND �
Contents Ideas
30
Literary Lisbon
With its café society

and atmospheric
streets, it is not
surprising that
Lisbon has spawned
some of the world’s
greatest writers.
Eça de Queiroz
introduced realism
into Portuguese
fiction in the late
nineteenth century
and his novels are gaining
in popularity; an adaptation
of The Sin of Father Amaro
A Brasileira
was recently made into a A bronze statue of Fernando Pessoa sits
film. The poet Fernando outside Lisbon’s best-known café, which
the writer frequented during his short life.
Pessoa’s The Book of
Disquiet is considered an
existentialist classic, Rossio
Richard Zimler’s The Last Kabbalist of
though it was published Lisbon recalls the spot where the
after his death in 1935. Inquisition read out its sentences; in
1506, one of these instigated the
Today’s best-known writer massacre of much of the city’s Jewish
population.
is José Saramago, who
� P.73 � ROSSIO AND AROUND �
won the Nobel Prize for
Literature in 1998; his best
novel, The Year of the
Death of Ricardo Reis,
evokes Fernando Pessoa’s
Lisbon.
Contents Ideas
31
Monserrate
William Beckford, author of the gothic
classic Vathek, set up home here in the
late eighteenth century.
� P.162 � SINTRA COAST,
QUELUZ AND AROUND �
Adamastor, Miradouro de
Santa Catarina
This statue depicts the mythical beast
guarding the Cape of Good Hope,
encountered by Camões in his epic Lusiads
and revisited by Saramago in The Year of
the Death of Ricardo Reis.
Hotel Janelas Verdes

Now a hotel, this was where Eça de Queiroz
Cemitério dos Ingleses wrote his novel The Maias, inspired no
The burial place of Henry Fielding, one of doubt by the garden and river views.
England’s first ever novelists, who came to
� P.186 � ACCOMMODATION �
Lisbon to recover from illness and never
returned.
AND LAPA �
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32
Manueline to modern
The Portuguese Torre de Belém

have always used Considered the purest example of the
Manueline style in Portugal, decorated
Europe’s top with motifs representing Portugal’s con
quests abroad.
architects for their
� P.132 � BELÉM �
grandest buildings:
a Spaniard, João de
Castilho, developed
the Mosteiro dos
Jerónimos in Belém;
the Italian Felipe
Terzi designed the
church of São
Vicente de Fora; and
more recently the
American Peter
Chermaeff created
the stunning Oceanário. But
the most innovative
architects have just as
often been the Portuguese
themselves. Diogo de Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Boitaca was the originator With window frames resembling twisted
ropes and central columns like palm
of the distinct sixteenth- trunks, this is the most vivid and famous
century Manueline example of Lisbon’s Manueline
architecture.
architectural style, much
� P.129 � BELÉM �
influenced by maritime
explorations. Today’s
master is Álvaro Siza Viera,
one of the world’s great
modern architects, who
has done much to reshape
Lisbon’s fire-damaged
Chiado district.
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Conceição Velha
The church’s beautiful sixteenth-century
doorway displays angels, plants, animals
and other distinctly Manueline features.
Eden building
Originally a cinema and now a hotel, this is
the city’s best example of Art Deco.
Armazéns do Chiado
Classy centrepiece for the reconstructed
Chiado district – a bright, light shopping
centre hidden behind traditional facades,
rebuilt after the fire of 1988.
Pavilhão de Portugal
The Parque das Nações has countless
examples of adventurous architecture,
though Álvaro Siza Viera’s sagging concrete
roof on the Pavilhão de Portugal has the
biggest wow factor.
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Weird structures
Partly because of
Lisbon’s geography
and partly through
sheer extravagance,
the area around the
city is well stocked
with some fantastic
and peculiar
structures. Lisbon is Aqueduto das Águas Livres
built over seven hills The amazing 60-kilometre-long
eighteenth-century aqueduct was once
facing an enormous Lisbon’s main source of water.
river estuary – a � P.138 � AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE
AND AROUND �
taxing landscape for
engineers – but they have Cristo Rei
Someone to watch over you: Portugal
overcome the problem with dictator Salazar’s gift to the people, a
the construction of one of mini version of Rio’s statue of Christ.
Europe’s biggest aqueducts
and one of its longest
bridges. Throw in a bizarre
hermitage and homages to
wealth, Christ, and
Freemasonry, and the
weird and wonderful set is
complete.
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The Initiation Well, Quinta
da Regaleira
Inspired by Freemasonry and hidden behind
a revolving stone door, the spiral stairs, well
and secret tunnel are straight from the
pages of a fantasy.
� P.158 � SINTRA �
Mãe d’Água water cistern

The end of the line for the aqueduct is an
eerily beautiful underground reservoir, now
used for temporary exhibitions.
AND AROUND �
Casa dos Bicos

The “house of points” (or “nipples”) was
built in 1523, its ornamentation a sign of
ostentation.
Convento dos Capuchos

An extraordinary sixteenth-century
Ponte Vasco da Gama
hermitage carved from rock and cork in the Built for Expo 98, and best seen from the
wild hills above Sintra. Parque das Nações, the bridge stretches for
17km, 12km of it over the Tejo estuary.
� P.164 � THE SINTRA COAST, QUELUZ
AND AROUND � � P.151 � PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES �
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Luxury hotels
Lisbon’s hotel Lapa Palace

capacity is Formal service, plush rooms and two
pools, one in a tropical garden, in this
expanding every hotel nestled amongst embassies and
consulates.
year, but it pays to
book ahead to bag
the best places. The
least expensive
options are good
value, from e25 for
a double room. For
special occasions,
e150 plus will get you a
room in some of Europe’s
best hotels – and often for
less if you go out of
season. Lisbon’s smartest
areas are along the
Avenida da Liberdade,
around Parque Eduardo VII Residencial York House
Completely hidden from the street, this
or in the prosperous former convent has luxurious rooms and a
suburb of Lapa. The most lovely internal courtyard.
obvious places to try for
inexpensive
accommodation are
around the
main squares in the Baixa,
and the streets Rua das
Portas de Santo Antão and
Rua da Glória, parallel to
Avenida da Liberdade.
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Pestana Palace
Combining modern rooms with traditional
opulence and fantastic gardens, this is
rightly considered Lisbon’s top hotel.
Solar do Castelo
Lisbon’s latest boutique hotel, set round a
Moorish courtyard abutting the castle walls.
VIP Orion Eden

Its self-catering apartments are nothing
special, but the roof terrace and pool give
this Art Deco hotel the edge.
Hotel Lisboa
Regency Chiado
Designer hotel in the heart of the city, with
superb views from its terrace and bar.
Contents Ideas
38
Local cuisine
At their finest, Bica and pastel de nata

Portuguese dishes Pastéis de nata are custard tarts, best
enjoyed with a bica, a wickedly powerful
can be a revelation, espresso coffee. Antiga Confeitaria de
Belém is the best place to try the
made with fresh combination.
ingredients bursting � P.135 � BELÉM �
with flavour. Grilled
meats and fish tend
to be the best bets,
usually
accompanied by rice
or chips and salad. But
unless you go upmarket,
don’t expect sophisticated
sauces or delicate touches:
stews, in particular, are not
for the faint-hearted; offal
features highly on most Port and wine
Though famed for its port, Portuguese wine
menus; and the ever- has a growing reputation
present bacalhau (dried internationally; Enoteca wine bar always
has a fine wine selection.
salted cod) can be heavy
� P.117 � PRAÇA DO PRINCIPE
going if you choose the REAL AND AROUND �
wrong variety. The

following are specialities in
the Lisbon area.
Contents Ideas
39
Sardines (sardinhas)
The archetypal Portuguese dish. Stroll
around the Alfama in summer and you’ll see
them grilled on outside barbecues on virtu
ally every corner.
� P.84 � THE ALFAMA AND RIVERFRONT �
Salted cod (bacalhau)

There are 365 bacalhau dishes; bacalhau á
brás, with egg and potatoes, is always
popular, or buy it to take home from the
shops on Rua do Arsenal.
Spider crabs (santola)

Santola recheado (stuffed spider crabs) are Prawns (camarões)
a Lisbon speciality; Rua das Portas de Simply grilled camarões, with a dash of
Santo Antão specializes in such dishes and garlic, make the perfect dish or bar snack;
you can usually check them out first live in try some at Cervejaria Farol in Cacilhas.
the restaurant tanks.
� P.172 � SOUTH OF LISBON �
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Traditional eating
Lisbon has some of

the best-value
restaurants of any
European city, many
serving food in
traditional interiors
that have barely
changed since the
nineteenth century.
A set menu
(ementa turística)
will get you a three- Cervejaria da Trindade
Ninetenth-century beer hall, touristy but
course meal for undeniably appealing, with decorative
around e10–15 anywhere tiles, a little garden and tasty seafood.
in the city, though you can � P.109 � THE BAIRRO ALTO �
eat for less by sticking to

Ribadouro
the ample main dishes or Atmospheric beer hall famed for its grilled
by choosing the daily prawns, which you can have at the bar or
as a full meal.
specials – indeed, you may � P.140 � AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE
find the meia doce (half AND AROUND �
portion) sufficient for a

main course. When you sit
down, you will usually be
presented with starters of
olives, cheeses, spreads
and sometimes cold meat
or seafood. You’ll be
charged for anything you
eat; if you don’t take
anything, make sure only
the cover charge is on the
bill.
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41
Casa do Alentejo
Cross the tile-lined central courtyard to a
traditional upstairs dining room for solid
Portuguese food and Alentejan specialities.
Martinho da Arcada
Enjoy excellent meat dishes and formal din
ing in one of the city’s oldest restaurants,
under the arcades of Praça do Comércio.
Bom Jardim/
Rei dos Frangos
Unglamorous restaurant but the best place
in town for barbecue-grilled chicken.
Tavares Rico
An ornate eighteenth-century restaurant
replete with chandeliers, a favoured haunt
of Lisbon’s business folk.
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42
Views to feast on
The city’s undulating Cervejaria Farol

landscape means A short ferry ride over the Tejo leads to
superb seafood and a panorama of Lisbon.
that you can often � P.177 � SOUTH OF THE TEJO �
eat while enjoying
superb views over
the city or the river
Tejo. Most
Portuguese dine at
around 8.30 or 9pm,
so to guarantee the
best table, turn up
early or make sure
you reserve in
advance, especially on
Friday or Saturday
evenings. Telephone
numbers for restaurant
listings are given in the
guide.
Rêsto do Chapitô
The menu may be limited, but the view is
breathtaking, one of the best in the city.
� P.93 � CASTELO, MOURARIA
AND GRAÇA �
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43
Casa do Leâo
Built into part of the former palace in the
grounds of the Castelo de São Jorge, with
glorious views over the river.
� P.92 � CASTELO, MOURARIA & GRAÇA �
Associação Católica
Budget buffet lunches can be had on a
stunning roof terrace facing the river.
Tertúlia do Tejo
Enjoy nouveau Portuguese cuisine faced by
Bica do Sapato
the bobbing boats of Santo Amaro docks. Ultra hip decor, food and clientele, with
broad vistas across the Tejo estuary.
THE RIVERFRONT � � P.96 � EASTERN LISBON �
Contents Ideas
44
Caffeine fixes
Lisbon has A Brasileira

thousands of cafés, The city’s most famous café, opened in
1905 and the hub of café society ever
ranging from since.
atmospheric early � P.102 � CAIS DO SODRÉ & CHIADO �
twentieth-century
artists’ haunts and
Art Deco wonders to
modern varieties
with minimalist
interiors. Lisboetas
tend to head to a
café or pastelaria
(patisserie) for a breakfast
of a croissant or pastry
washed down with coffee –
either a bica (espresso) or
milky galão (a tall coffee in Confeitaria Nacional
One of the city’s oldest cafés, with great
a glass). Cafés also serve coffee and outdoor tables.
snacks, drinks and even � P.77 � ROSSIO AND AROUND �
full meals. Pastéis de
bacalhau (cod fishcakes),
rissóis de carne (fried meat
rissoles) and pregos (steak
sandwiches) make great
snacks, while Lisbon is
famed for its pastéis de
nata (custard tarts) and
bolos (cakes).
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45
A Linha d’Água
Modern glass-fronted café with superb
cakes, salads and views of the park and
lake.
Antiga Confeitaria
Suiça de Belém
Bustling café with counters groaning under
This place serves the best pastéis de nata
the weight of cakes and pastries, and
in Lisbon, though its cavernous interior is
outdoor tables facing Lisbon’s two main
worth exploring in its own right.
squares.
� P.135 � BELÉM �
Café Versailles
Wonderful traditional café with waiters in
bow ties and a fleet of coiffured women
devouring cakes and sandwiches.
Contents Ideas
46
Best bars
Portugal is rightly
famed for its
excellent wines
and, though the
locals rarely drink it
in bars, you can
always get a decent
glass of vinho (wine)
or vinho do Porto (port).
Lisboetas are more likely to
drink cerveja (beer), the
two most common brands
being Sagres and
Superbock, either in
garrafas (bottles) or
draught: uma caneca is a
A Ginginha
pint, um imperial is a half. Tiny bar that’s served ginginha since
Local spirits are 1840: order it with or without the stone.
inexpensive and measures � P.79 � ROSSIO AND AROUND �
extremely generous. The

local brandy, maciera, is Solar do Vinho do Porto
This eighteenth-century former palace is
smooth on the palate (but the best place to sample port, including
rough on the head). Even the underrated white variety.
� P.113 � BAIRRO ALTO �
more lethal are the local
aguardente firewaters,
such as Bagaço or the
cherry-based ginginha,
which seem to fuel some
workers from breakfast
onwards.
Contents Ideas
47
Enoteca
Trendy wine bar with rooms in a cavernous
former bathhouse.
� P.117 �
PRAÇA DO PRINCÍPE REAL
AND AROUND �
Pavilhão Chinês
The “Chinese Pavilion” wins the award for
quirkiest decor, and the cocktails aren’t bad
either.
� P.117 � PRAÇA DO PRÍNCIPE REAL
AND AROUND �
Portas Largas
Ancient tasca (tavern) with original marble Lisbona
counter and tables, but a distinctly modern One of the most authentic local bars in the
clientele. Bairro Alto, with good music for company.
� P.112 � BAIRRO ALTO � � P.112 � BAIRRO ALTO �
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48
Lisbon beat
No other sound
encapsulates the
mood of Lisbon so
perfectly as fado,
but Lisbon moves to
a variety of other
rhythms, especially
those from its
former colonies in
Africa and Brazil. Jazz has
a loyal following, while the
classical music scene is
well represented at various Lux
venues and festivals. Part-owned by John Malkovich and with a
riverside terrace, this is Lisbon’s top club;
Lisbon’s clubbing scene it also hosts concerts.
has a burgeoning � P.97 � EASTERN LISBON �
reputation. The best place Casa do Fado e da

to head for a night out is Guitarra Portuguesa
the Bairro Alto, which from Its displays may be low tech, but this fado
museum is the best place to understand
Thursday to Saturday the passion the Portuguese have for the
becomes one big street sound.
party. Most places open RIVERFRONT �
around 11pm and few
charge admission, though
expect a “minimum
consumption” policy, in
which you pay on exit if
you have not spent enough
at the bar.
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49
Bairro Alto bar-hopping

Head to the “high district” after midnight
and you’ll find Lisbon’s heartbeat, with
lively bars and clubs at every turn.
Casas de Fado
There are countless fado houses, mostly in
the Bairro Alto or Alfama; Adega do Ribatejo
is a great place to start.
Queen’s
A former warehouse, now a space for
Lisbon’s moneyed set to dance the night
away.
THE RIVERFRONT �
Hot Clube de Portugal

Small, sweaty, dark and laid-back: what
more could you want from the city’s best
jazz club?
AND AROUND �
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50
Gay and lesbian Lisbon
Lisbon’s gay and Hotel Anjo Azul

lesbian scene is The first hotel to cater exclusively for
gays, in the heart of the Bairro Alto
becoming more nightlife.
open in a city that � P.186 � ACCOMMODATION �
was, until recently,

fairly conservative.
Nightlife focuses on
the Bairro Alto and
Praça do Príncipe
Real, where a group
of generally laid-
back bars and
clubs attract a
mixed age group; as
at other clubs, the
best nights are
Thursdays to
Saturdays after 11pm or
so. Hangovers are eased on
gay beaches near
Caparica or further south at Centro Comunitário Gay e
Praia do Meco. The main Lésbica de Lisboa
Clued-up centre for gays, with helpful
gay events are the Gay staff and info on cultural events.
Film Festival in September � P.201 � ESSENTIALS �
and June’s Arraial Pride
(Gay Pride); details can be
found on wwww.ilga
portugal.oninet.pt.
Contents Ideas
51
Sétimo Ceu
Fun, Brazilian-run gay bar, an obligatory
stop in the Bairro Alto.
� P.112 � BAIRRO ALTO �
Arraial Pride
Annual Gay Pride event held in various
locations around the city.
Costa da Caparica
Take the toy train to stop nineteen, the tra
ditional gay beach on the line.
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52
A year in Lisbon
The Portuguese
have a reputation
for being somewhat
reserved, at least in
comparison with
their Spanish
neighbours, but they
know how to have a
good time when it
comes to festivals.
This is especially so
during the
celebrations for the
Santos Populares (Popular

Saints) in June, when parts
of Lisbon become one big
street party. Music and the
arts are also highly valued
and the year is punctuated
by a series of cultural
events that present
concerts and exhibitions at
venues across the city –
the listings magazines
Follow me Lisboa (in
English) and Agenda
Cultural (in Portuguese)
have the best listings, or
ask at the tourist office.
New Year’s Eve

The best place to head for is Praça do
Comércio, where fireworks light up the
riverfront; there are similar events in the
Parque das Nações and Cascais.
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53
Santo António
June 12–13 sees the largest of the popular
saints celebrations, when the Alfama and
other districts come alive with decorations
and all-night partying.
RIVERFRONT �
Christmas
Lisbon has a magical air in the build-up to
Christmas – in particular the Baixa, which is
filled with fairy lights and the aroma of
roasted chestnuts.
Feira Internacional
Artesanato
Handicrafts and folk music festivals, held
near the casino in Estoril and at the Feira São Martinho
Internacional de Lisboa in Parque das This saint’s day on November 11 launches a
Nações in July. wine festival celebrating the first of the
wine harvest, with tastings and cultural
programmes throughout November.
� P.153 � PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES
Contents Ideas
54
Good buys
If you’re used to
characterless
shopping malls,
you’ll find the
Baixa’s traditional
and specialist
shops refreshing.
Even the city’s
shopping centres are
quite an experience:
families spend entire days
out in them, eating all their
meals, having an evening
out at the cinema, and
visiting a vast range of
shops in between.
Traditional shopping
hours are Monday to Feira da Ladra
Friday from around 9 or Lisbon’s best, most chaotic and
atmospheric flea market can be visited on
10am to 7pm, with an hour Tuesday and Saturday mornings.
or two’s closing over � P.95 � EASTERN LISBON �
lunchtime; most shops
close Saturday afternoon.
Larger shops are generally
open all day Monday to
Saturday, often until 10pm
or later; some also open on
Sunday. Many of the Bairro
Alto’s fashionable
boutiques only open in the
afternoon, from around 2 to Armazéns do Chiado
9pm. Central Lisbon’s most appealing shopping
centre, with top-floor cafés offering fine
city views.
� P.101 �
CAIS DO SODRÉ
AND CHIADO �
Contents Ideas
55
Espaço Fátima Lopes

Check out the latest designer clothing at
this store belonging to Lisbon’s queen of
fashion.
P.108 THE BAIRRO ALTO
Manuel Tavares
This traditional Baixa shop is a great place
to buy ports, wine, local cheeses and
confectionery.
P.76 ROSSIO AND AROUND
Fábrica Sant’anna
A 250-year-old treasure trove of decorative
tiles and ceramics.
P.101 CAIS DO SODRÉ AND CHIADO
Conserveira de Lisboa
Selling exotic coffee beans and
confectionery, this aromatic shop is typical
of old-fashioned stores on the Baixa.
P.82 THE SÉ AND AROUND
Mercado da Ribeira
Pungent and colourful food market, with
regional crafts, food and cultural shows
upstairs.
P.99 CAIS DO SODRÉ AND CHIADO
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56
Kids’ Lisbon
The Portuguese are Museu do Brinquedo

very family-oriented This toy museum should fire the imagina
tion of any child, and most adults too.
and children are � P.157 � SINTRA �
welcomed
everywhere. Hotels
and pensions can
provide extra beds
or cots if notified in
advance, usually
free for under-sixes,
while discounts on
accommodation for older
children can often be
arranged. On public
transport, under-fives
travel free. Facilities for
toddlers are less ideal.
Changing facilities are
scarce, as are high chairs
and menus specifically for
children, though
restaurants usually do half
portions (ask for uma meia Costa da Caparica
dose). Fresh milk is sold Lisbon’s best beaches lie on the Costa da
Caparica, where the quietest swaths of
only in larger shops and sand can be reached on a toy train.
supermarkets (most places � P.173 � SOUTH OF THE TEJO �
sell UHT milk), though

nappies, formula milk and
baby food are widely
available in supermarkets
and pharmacies.
Contents Ideas
57
Dolphin watching
Leaping dolphins and the thrill of a boat
ride make this a great day out.
Parque das Nações

The perfect destination for families: traffic-
free, with special children’s play areas,
international restaurants, an oceanarium,
bowling and various other attractions.
Museu da Marioneta
From medieval marionettes to contempo
rary satirical puppets, this museum
trumpets an art form that satisfied children
long before the days of computer games.
AND LAPA �
Feira Popular
Charming old-style amusement park, with
fairground rides and inexpensive cafés.
Contents Ideas
58
Sporting Lisbon
Even before the Surfing

Euro 2004 With superb breakers, the beaches of
Caparica and Guincho in particular are
championships, exhilarating for surfing.
Lisboetas have � P.173 � SOUTH OF THE TEJO
� P.169 � CASCAIS & ESTORIL �
always had a
passion for football,
and the city boasts
two of Europe’s top
sides, Benfica and
Sporting (fixtures at
(wwww.portuguese
soccer.com). The
Lisbon area also contains
some of Europe’s best golf
courses (info at wwww.
portugalgolf.pt), and
Atlantic beaches that are
ideal for surfing and
windsurfing. Horse-
riding is superb in the
Sintra hills, and skilled Bullfighting
horsemanship can also be Whatever your views on the sport, it is hard
not to be impressed by the elegant and
seen at Portuguese skilled Portuguese bullfighters, who perform
bullfights, which are less at the Praça de Touros do Campo Pequeno.
bloody than their Spanish � P.146 � NORTHERN LISBON �
counterpart. The Lisbon

marathon in November
and April’s Estoril tennis
Open draw international
athletes to the city.
Contents Ideas
59
Golf
The Lisbon area has three championship-
standard golf courses, the most famous of
which is Penha Longa.
� P.165 �
THE SINTRA COAST,
QUELUZ AND AROUND �
Horse-riding
A horse trek into the Sintra hills is a memo
rable experience.
� P159 � SINTRA �
Windsurfing
Windsurfing championships are often held
at Guincho beach in August, though calmer
waters are to be found at Cascais.
Benfica
The city’s most famous club play at the
legendary Stadium of Light.
Contents Ideas
60
Ethnic Lisbon
Over 120,000
people of African
and Asian descent
live in the Greater
Lisbon area, most
hailing originally
from Portugal’s
former colonies –
Cape Verde, Angola,
Mozambique, Brazil,
Goa and Macao. The first
Africans arrived as slaves
in the fifteenth century
during Portugal’s maritime
explorations. The 1974
revolution and subsequent
independence of the former
colonies saw another wave
of immigrants settle in the
capital. Nowadays African
and Brazilian culture
permeate Lisbon life,
influencing its music, food,
television and street slang.
Most Lisboetas are rightly
proud of their
cosmopolitan city
although, inevitably, racism
persists and few from
ethnic minorities have
managed to break through
the glass ceiling to the top Chafarica
jobs. The best place to catch live Brazilian
sounds and drink caipirinha cocktails.
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61
Centro Comércial Mouraria
Shops and stores run by Lisbon’s ethnic
communities fill the six levels of this
atmospheric shopping centre.
Museu do Centro Científico e

Cultural de Macau
Rua do Poço dos Negros Museum tracing Portugal’s long relationship
This street was named to commemorate with the Orient and its former colony
the countless slaves who died in a Macau.
sixteenth-century epidemic.
� P.125 � ALCÂNTARA AND THE
MAP � P.118 � SÃO BENTO, RIVERFRONT �
Brasuca
Feijoada (meat or fish with beans) is one of
the great Brazilian dishes – try it at Brasuca
restaurant, which offers a taste of Brazil in
a great old Bairro Alto building.
Contents Ideas
62
Day-trips
Though the city has Sintra

enough attractions See why Lord Byron proclaimed the
village “in every aspect the most delight
to keep visitors ful in Europe”.
happy for days, it � P.155 � SINTRA �
would be a shame
to miss out on the
beautiful and varied
region around Lisbon. Most
people are lured by the
proximity of some superb
Atlantic beaches, the best
of which are south of the
Tejo on the Costa da
Caparica – though beware
of fierce currents. Calmer
waters are to be found
west of Lisbon at Cascais Cascais
and Estoril, or at the Former fishing village turned resort, with
some great beaches, a short ride from the
sheltered beaches around capital.
the Parque Natural da � P.168 � CASCAIS AND ESTORIL �
Arrábida further south. But

no visit to the area is
complete without seeing
Sintra, a mountaintop
village where Portuguese
royalty traditionally took
their holidays.
Contents Ideas
63
Cabo da Roca
The most westerly
point in mainland
Europe, close to some
wave-battered
beaches.
� P.164 � THE SINTRA
COAST,
QUELUZ &
AROUND �
Caparica
Favoured beach escape for Lisboetas,
though fishermen still haul in drift-nets
amongst the sun worshippers.
Parque Natural da Arrábida � P.173 � SOUTH OF THE TEJO �

It’s worth the drive south to explore this
Estoril
rugged mountain range, whose dazzling
Sandy beaches and a casino for those who
white convent overlooks calm sandy coves.
want to indulge in a James Bond lifestyle.
Contents Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places
Contents Places
Places
Contents Places
67
The Baixa
The tall, imposing buildings that make up the Baixa

(“lower town”, pronounced bye-sha) house some of
PLACES The Baixa

Lisbon’s most interesting shops and cafés. Many of the
streets are pedestrianized and, by day, they thrum with
business folk and street entertainers. After dark, when
the offices close, however, the whole area is strangely
quiet. Facing the river, these streets felt the full force of
the 1755 earthquake that destroyed much of what was
then one of Europe’s wealthiest capitals. The king’s
minister, the Marquês de Pombal, swiftly redesigned the
sector with the grid pattern that is evident today.
Pombal intended many of the grid’s streets to take their
names from the crafts and businesses carried out there,
like Rua da Prata (Silversmiths’ Street) and Rua dos
Sapateiros (Cobblers’ Street). Modern banks and offices
have disturbed these divisions, somewhat, though plen
ty of traditional stores remain; the central section of
Rua da Conceição, for example, is still lined with shops
selling beads and sequins. Other interesting streets to
explore are the pedestrianized ones running south to
north – Rua dos Correeiros, Rua dos Douradores and
Rua dos Sapateiros.
Praça do Comércio
The beautifully arcaded Praça
do Comércio represents the
climax of Pombal’s design. Its
classical buildings were once a
royal palace and the square is
centred on an exuberant bronze
equestrian statue of Dom José,
monarch during the earthquake
and the period of the capital’s
rebuilding.Two of Portugal’s last
royals came to a sticky end in
this square: in 1908 King Carlos
I and his eldest son were shot
dead here, clearing the way for
the declaration of the Republic
two years later.
Praça do Comércio’s riverfront
provides a natural focus for the
area (when metro tunnelling is
completed). In the hour or two
before sunset people often
linger in the golden light to PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIOARCADES
Contents Places
DA AD
GO
RDALO
EIRO
A CA
nal
CORD
� P
Carlos
seu
AC
V. DO
eja dos
ártires
Chiado
ON
OL
IN D A
The Baixa PLACES
ADO
CA
R. ANCHIET
A DES
SA
IVE
IRA
RMO
DE
ELO
DO
DU
QU
E
Bairro Alto
Cais do Sodré
ON
68
LARGO
DO
CARMO
RUA GARRETT
R U A
LARGO
CALÇ.
I V E N S
ACADEMIA
DAS
BELAS
ARTES
DE
C.
RUA DO
0
N
S.
ARSENA
EATING & DRINKING

A Campaneza
João do Grão
A Licorista
Convento
do Carmo
DO SA
CRAM
ENTO
CALÇADA
NOVA DE
S. FRANCISC O
FR
Martinho da Arcada
AN
CI
PRAÇA DO
C.
SC
MUNICIPIO
watch the orange ferries ply

between the Estação Fluvial and
Cacilhas on the opposite side of
the Tejo.The square is the
starting point for tram and bus
tours of the city (see p.198), as
well as home to the Lisbon
Welcome Centre, the city’s main
tourist office (see p.196); it is
also one of the main venues for
Contents
100 m
RUA
O
ZEMBRO
CARM
DO
Baixa-
Chiado
RUA N
M M
OVA
Elevador
Santa Justa
O
DO ALM
AD
A
Câmara
Municipal
L
�
RUA DO CRU
Terreiro do Paço
XO CIFI
A V EN ID DA
R IB EI R
3
2
1
5
A
A D AS NÁ US
(ROSSIO)
RUA
28
6
ROSSIO
AUREA
R U A
3
(DO
OURO)
Café Puro
1
RUA
RUA
B A I X A
Discoteca 4
Amália
DOS
SAPATE
Casa Pereira
da Conceiçâo
Zara
e Vegetarianos
RUA
Terreiro do Paço
15 18 25
@ i Welcome
7
Places
6
RUA
DE
RUA DA A
IROS
RUA DE
RUA DA C
D O
Lisbon
Centre
R i o Te j o
Refeições Naturais
4
7
SSUNÇÃ
RU A
RUA DA
ONCEIÇÃ
SANTA
VITÓRIA
AU GU ST A
DE
C O M É R
RUA
DOS
RUA
C I O
PRAÇA DA
FIGUEIRA
PR. DA
FIGUIERA
BETES
2 15
AUGUSTA
COMÉRCIO
GA
CORREE
IROS
Arco da
JUSTA
RUA
DA
O
S. NICO
Núcleo
Arqueológico
SÃO
Rua Augusta
PRAÇA
DO
the city’s New Year’s Eve

firework festivities.
Praça do Município
LAU
The attractive, mosaic-paved

Praça do Município houses the
O
PRATA
Neoclassical nineteenth-century
Câmara Municipal (City Hall),
where the Portuguese Republic
ARTE
RUA DOS
DOURADO
Cacilhas
was declared in 1910, flatteringly

RES
R U A
JULIÃO
5
D O S
F A N
Terreiro do Paço
(from 2004)
R U A
Q U E
D A
I R O S
P.
M A D A L
Napoleâo
RU A DA
BO
E N A
15
AL FÂ ND
AV. INFANTE D.
EDO
RUA DO R E G
LARGO
RUA
R U A
D A
M
LARGO
DE SÃO
A. AMARO DA COSTA
RU
A
M A D A
Conceição Velha
DA
Tram route
CRISTÓVÃO
R
DE
L E N A
SÃ
LG. DA ALAFONA
O
SP
Estação
Fluvial
Barreiro
C. DE
ED R
28
DO T A
M A NCO
AAS
R. PA DA
RQ S
M
HENRIQUE
UÊ
AM
RI
ED
S
E
RU
NE
GR
EG A
A
AS
MO RU A
U CO
D O C . D O C ON
M
I
DE
Castelo and Alfama
RUA
DE
D O I L A DO
STA
LA
R.
CA
V
G
PEN
■
DE
DA
■■
■■■■■
■■■
RE
AFIEL
69
described by Portugal’s greatest preserving tanks, a fifth-century
twentieth-century poet Pessoa as Christian burial place and
“one of the finest buildings in the Moorish ceramics can all be
city”.The square adjoins Rua do seen in the tiny Núcleo
Arsenal, an atmospheric street Arqueológico, a museum
PLACES The Baixa

packed with pungent shops containing the remains of
selling dried cod and grocers excavations revealed during
selling cheap wines, port and building work on the BCP
brandies. bank. Most exhibits are viewed
through glass floors or from
Arco da Rua Augusta cramped walkways under the
and Rua Augusta modern bank during a 30- to
Praça do Comércio’s most 45-minute tour. Pombal
prominent building is a huge actually rebuilt most of the
arch, the Arco da Rua Augusta, Baixa on a riverbed, and you
adorned with statues of can even see the wooden piles
historical figures, including the driven into the waterlogged soil
Marquês de Pombal and Vasco to support the buildings, the
da Gama.The arch was built to same device that is used in
celebrate Lisbon’s reconstruction Venice.
after the earthquake, although it
wasn’t completed until 1873. Elevador de Santa Justa
From here, the mosaic-paved Rua de Santa Justa. May–Sept
Rua Augusta is the Baixa’s main Mon–Fri 8.30am–10.30pm, Sat & Sun
pedestrianized thoroughfare, 9am–10.30pm; Oct–April daily
filled with shops, cafés, market 9am–7pm. e1. It is hard to avoid
stalls and buskers. Raul Mésnier’s Elevador de
Santa Justa, one of the city’s
Núcleo Arqueológico most extraordinary and
Rua dos Correeiros 9 t213 211 700. eccentric structures. Built in
Advance bookings required. Thurs 1902 by a disciple of Eiffel, its
3–5pm, Sat 10am–noon & 3–5pm. giant lift whisks you 32m up
The remains of Roman fish the inside of a latticework
Contents Places
70
metal tower, to deposit you on looking for a recommendation,
a platform high above the the staff are usually happy to
Baixa. A dizzy spiral staircase help.
leads to a pricy rooftop café
with great views over the city. Napoleão
The Baixa PLACES
The exit from the top of the Rua dos Fanqueiros 70. Mon–Sat
Elevador to the Largo do 9.30am–8pm. This spruce, well-
Carmo has been closed for stocked shop offers a great range
several years, though it is due of quality port and wine, and its
to reopen soon; in the enthusiastic, English-speaking
meantime, get there early to staff can advise on what to buy.
avoid the queues for the top.
Zara
Rua Augusta 71–81. Mon–Sat
Shops 9.30am–7.30pm. Main city branch
of stylish Spanish chain selling a
Casa Pereira da Conceição wide range of inexpensive,
Rua Augusta 102–104. Mon–Fri colourful clothing for men,
9.40am–1pm & 3–7pm, Sat women and children.Very good
9.40am–1pm. Fine Art Deco shop value.
selling tempting coffee beans,
teas, chocolates, cafetieres, and
china.The aroma alone makes it Cafés
worth a visit.
A Campaneza
Discoteca Amália Rua dos Sapateiros 157. Mon–Sat
Rua Aurea 272. Mon–Fri 9.30am–2pm 7am–8pm. Formerly a leitaria
& 3–7pm, Sat 9.30am–1pm. A small (dairy shop) and still displaying
but well-stocked shop with a the decor from its past
good collection of traditional existence, this is now a simple
Portuguese fado music. If you’re pastelaria (pastry shop), with
CASA PEREIRA DA CONCEIÇÃO
Contents Places
71
decent inexpensive snacks and spot for a coffee and a pastel de

coffee. nata though.
A Licorista Refeições Naturais

Rua dos Sapateiros 218 t 213 431 e Vegetarianos
PLACES The Baixa

128. Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat Rua dos Correeiros 205, 2º. Mon–Fri
8am–1pm. This attractive tile- noon–7pm. Self-service canteen
and-brick café-bar is a good on the second floor of a
local refreshment stop near the traditional town house with a
Baixa shops. At lunchtime, changing daily menu of
tables are also available for inexpensive, vegetarian, hot and
inexpensive set meals. cold meals – usually crepes,
rissoles and rice dishes.
Restaurants Terreiro do Paço

Praça do Comércio t210 312 850.
João do Grão Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm &
Rua dos Correeiros 220–228 t 213 8pm–midnight, Sun 12.30–3pm.
424 757. Daily noon–3.30pm & Expensive but stylish restaurant
6–11pm. One of the best of a right on the square serving
row of restaurants on this high-quality meat and fish
pedestrianized street, where dishes, accompanied by wine
appealing outdoor tables tempt served in glasses the size of
you to sit down and sample the pumpkins. Downstairs tables are
reasonably priced Portuguese separated by wooden screens,
favourites and interesting salads, though the nicest tables are in
though the marble- and the cavernous, brick-vaulted
azulejo-clad interior is just as upstairs room. Saturday lunch
attractive. features a traditional serving of
cozido, while Sunday brunch
Martinho da Arcada concentrates on Portuguese
Praça do Comércio 3 t218 879 259. specialities – often including
Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 7–11pm. One bacalhau. Reservations advised
of Lisbon’s oldest restaurants, for Sunday brunch and for
first opened in 1782 and dinner.
declared a national monument
as long ago as 1910. Over the
years it has been a gambling Bars and clubs
den, a meeting place for
political dissidents and, later, a Café Puro
more reputable hangout for Rua do Arsenal 21 t210 312 700.
politicians, writers and artists. It Mon–Sat 10pm–2am. The Lisbon
is now divided into a simple Welcome Centre’s otherwise
stand-up café and a slightly sterile café hosts lively music
pricey restaurant, with starched nights, often jazz but also world
white tablecloths and attentive music and fado.The performers
waiters serving traditional are non-professional but pretty
Portuguese food, notably grilled good and are appreciated by an
meats; things start to get enthusiastic audience most
expensive if you choose the weekend evenings.
seafood.The outdoor tables
under the arches are a perfect
Contents Places
� �
Rossio and around P LACES 72
Rossio and around

Rossio has been the city’s main square since medieval
times and it remains the hub of commercial Lisbon,
along with the adjacent squares Praça da Figueira,
Largo Martim Moniz and Praça dos Restauradores.
Bustling and noisy, this is where tourists new to the city
Bairro Alto
Bairro Alto RUA
CA
NOVA D
LÇ
ADA
DA
GL
A TRINDADE
Contents
OR
AV
IA
EN
IDA
RU
DA
Elevador i
da Glória
A
LIB
DA
OL
ER
DA
Palácio
Foz
Eden
RU
A
DA
IV
EIR
São
José
DE
Restauradores
M
Rossio
Station
CO
A
RU
NA
DE
100 m
DO
DU
SS
A
M
QU
LARGO
DO
E
1
RU
A D
RUA
PRAÇA DOS
RESTAURADORES
LARGO
DUQUE
CADAVAL
E
ABEP
SÃ
D. C
Restauradores
O J
Elevador
do Lavra
CAL
OS
É
OND
ES
ÇADA
Teatro Nacional
de Dona Maria II
Pingo Doce
Convento
do Carmo
Places
DO
T. STO. A N T ÃO
D. GE
A E
RU D. R
PRAÇA DOM
JOÃO DA
CÂMARA
RUA 1º
14
C. D O C AR
15
MO
IM
RD R
JA DO
13
DE DEZE
O
3
MBR
LA
2
P OR
11
17
Elevadorde
VR
Coliseu
TA
SD
ES
4
AN
A
5
N
Azeveda Rua
DOM PEDRO IV
6
TO
(ROSSIO)
R. L. AU RE A
RUA
ANT
PRAÇA
R.
C.
ÃO
PES
B. D
DE
TA N
. S.
E
LUÍS
M
T. S
Palácio da
Independência
LARGO DE R U A B
SÃO DOMINGOS 9. Q U E I R
10
Rossio
R. AU GU ST
SANTA
A
A
16
C. S
AN
T'A
RUA BE
NANT
TESG
ANA
DE
São
’
Domingos
PEN
C
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T R A V. N . SS
DOMINGO
Rossio
M
.
PRAÇA DA
FIGUEIRA
15
JUSTA
7
A
C. SANT’AN
A
ÓZ
12
A
R . D A PR AT A
R . M . VA Z
G
A
RC
Manue
Ho
IA
MM
S
CALÇ
ADA
RUA
18
DOURADORES
R. DOS
DOM
D
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C. SANT AN
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M
7
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N. S.
GOS
ÇA DA
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5
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12
R . D A PR AT A
TA
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find their feet, and is the area you’re most likely to be
offered a dodgy watch or “hasheesh”. The squares are
also important transport interchanges.
Rossio
Praça Dom Pedro IV, popularly
known as Rossio, was spruced
R . M . VA Z
RC
Hospital de
MM
São José
CALÇ
IAADA
RUA
18
Manuel Tavares
DOURADORES
R. DOS
NO
DOM
DUART
E
Contents
VA
TR
AV
R
R
R.
D . DO
A G A
DO
ÇA
UA
and, despite the traffic, the
outdoor seats of the square’s
cafés are popular vantage points
up at the start of the millennium for taking in the sparkling
AR
RA RCO
CO
R. JOÃO DAS REGRAS
Baixa
DA
DA
R . D A MA DE LE
15
NA
RUA
A
AÇ
GR
PA
BO
P.
Tram route
DE
SÃ
LM
AT
RR
O
A
EM
LÁ
ZA
RU
ARO
DO
RU
LARGO
DE SÃO
MAR
RUA
M.
CRISTÓVÃO
A
TIM
AL
DA EG
Places
EATING & DRINKING
Adega Santo Antão
Andorra
Beira Gare
A Berlenga
Bom Jardim
Cafe do Teatro
Casa do Alentejo
Celeiro
Confeitaria Nacional
RUA DA PA
S
M
LMA
R . F. D
M ONIZ
REFA TE
. FO
Martim
Moniz
NH
RI
NS
R.
DA
MO
Mouraria
AS
A D
VIL
R.
O
CA
�
EC
RIA
URA
STE
CA
Centro Comercial
AR
LO
ST
TA D
COS
Castelo
O
12
QÛ
MOURARIA
■■■■■
EL
■■
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■
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■■
■■
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R. JOÃ
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■DO
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6
4
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12
3
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5
15
18
RUA
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■
■
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■
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■■
■■
■
VA
DO
TE I
■
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Gambrinus
A Ginginha
Ginginha-Rubi
Leão d’Ouro
Nicola
Sol Posto
Solar dos Presuntos
Solmar
■
TV. D
Suíça O NAZARÉ
■■■■■■
RUA D
TE
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CA
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RR
COS TA
■
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Castelo de
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RES DE
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GA
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■■■■
73
NTE
S
RE
S
EIR
A
C. D
■
E SA
Alfama
NTO
A
PLACES Rossio and around
74
facade, and
inside there is
a good café
(see p.76).
Prior to the
earthquake,
Rossio and around PLACES
the
Inquisitional
Palace stood
on this site, in
front of
which public
hangings and
autos-da-fé
(ritual
burnings of
heretics) took
place.
ROSSIO STATION
Baroque fountains and mosaic- Igreja de São Domingos

cobbled pavements. During the The Igreja de São Domingos
nineteenth century, Rossio’s stands on the site of the
plethora of cafés attracted thirteenth-century Convento de
Lisbon’s painters and writers, São Domingos, where sentences
though many of the artists’ were read out during the
haunts were converted to banks Inquisition.The convent was
in the 1970s.The central statue destroyed in the earthquake of
of Dom Pedro IV is now the 1755, though its portal was
site of a small but colourful reconstructed soon after as part
flower market. On the of the current Dominican
northwestern side of the square, church, which was built on the
there’s a horseshoe-shaped same spot. For over a century it
entrance to Rossio station, a was the venue for royal
mock-Manueline complex with marriages and christenings,
the train platforms an escalator though it lost this role after the
ride above the street-level declaration of the Republic and
entrances. was then gutted by a fire in the
1950s. It was reopened in 1997
Teatro Nacional after partial restoration to
de Dona Maria II replace the seats and some
T 213 472 246, w www statues; however, the rest of the
.teatro-dmaria.pt. Rossio’s single cavernous interior and the
concession to grandeur is the scarred pillars remain powerfully
Teatro Nacional de Dona Maria atmospheric.
II built along its north side in
the 1840s, and heavily restored Praça da Figueira
after a fire in 1964. A statue of Praça da Figueira is a historic
Gil Vicente, Portugal’s square (once the site of Lisbon’s
sixteenth-century equivalent of main market), though the recent
Shakespeare, sits atop the addition of an underground car
Contents Places
75
park has detracted from its Rua das Portas

former grandeur somewhat. de Santo Antão
Nevertheless, it is slightly Rua das Portas de Santo Antão
quieter than Rossio, and its cafés is the area’s main pedestrianized
offer appealing views of the drag, well known for its seafood

green slopes of the Castelo de restaurants. Despite the tourist
São Jorge above. trappings – this and the
adjacent Rua Jardim Regedor
Praça dos Restauradores are the only places in town
The elongated Praça dos you’re likely to get waiters
Restauradores (Square of the trying to smooth-talk you into
Restorers) takes its name from their premises – the street does
the renewal of independence have some fine local haunts and
from Spain in 1640.To the north a constant stream of
of the square, the Elevador da entertaining human traffic.
Glória offers access to the Providing you choose carefully,
Bairro Alto (see p.105); south sits it is worth eating here at least
the superb Art Deco frontage of once.The street is also home to
the old Eden cinema, now an several theatres and the domed
apartment-hotel (see p.185).The Coliseu dos Recreios (t 213
square is dominated by the pink 240 580, w www.coliseulisboa.
Palácio de Foz on the western com) opened in 1890 as a
side, which housed the Ministry circus but is now one of
of Propaganda under the Salazar Lisbon’s main concert venues.
regime (1932–74) but is now Rua das Portas de Santo Antão
home to the Portuguese Tourist ends next to where another of
Office (see p.196) and tourist the city’s classic elevadores,
police station. During the week Elevador do Lavra, begins its
it is sometimes possible to visit ascent (see p.137 for details).
the palace’s ornate upper floors,
resplendent with chandeliers;
check in the tourist office for
details.
VIEW ACROSS PRAÇA DOS RESTAURADORES UP TO THE CASTLE
Contents Places
76
Level -3, give an real insight
into Lisbon’s ethnic
communities, perfect if you
need an Afro haircut or a
samosa.
MM (Mala Miss)
Rua B. Queiroz 5 t213 432 432.
Aptly translates as “Miss Bag”,
sporting a wide range of
inexpensive if far from cutting-
edge leather handbags, briefcases
and belts – there are lots of
other shops selling shoes and
leather goods on this road too.
Manuel Tavares
Rua da Betesga 1a t213 424 209.
Small, century-old treasure-
trove, with a great selection of
OUTSIDE OF PALÁCIO FOZ nuts, chocolate and national
cheeses, and a basement stuffed
with vintage wines and ports,
Shops some dating from the early
1900s.
Azevedo Rua
Rossio 73 t 213 427 511. Long- Pingo Doce
established, traditional shop Rua 1 Dezembro 123. Most central
selling good, old-fashioned hats branch of the supermarket chain
and umbrellas at sensible – a good place to stock up on
prices. picnic fodder, snacks or
inexpensive booze.
Centro Comércial Mouraria
Largo Martim Moniz. Largo Martim
Moniz formed the gateway to Cafés
the medieval city and took its
name from a Christian knight Beira Gare
who died trying to keep the Rua 1° de Dezembro 5. Daily
gates open during a crusade 6.30am–1am. Well-established café
against the occupying Moors. opposite Rossio station, serving
Today’s rather drab concrete stand-up Portuguese snacks, and
expanse is enlivened by the cheap lunches and dinners.
city’s tackiest and most run Constantly busy, which is
down shopping centre, recommendation enough.
sufficiently atmospheric to
warrant a look around its six Café do Teatro
levels (three of them Teatro Nacional de Dona Maria II
underground). Hundreds of T213 472 246. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm.
small, family-run stores selling Lisbon’s creative types frequent
Indian fabrics and Oriental and this theatre café, hidden among
African produce, alongside an the imposing columns of
aromatic collection of cafés on Lisbon’s main theatre.
Contents Places
77
Moderately priced cakes, A Berlenga
sandwiches and drinks come Rua Barros Queiroz 29. Daily
with views across to the Neo- 8am–midnight. A cervejaria
Manueline Rossio station. restaurant with a window
stuffed full of crabs and seafood.

Confeitaria Nacional Early evening snackers munch
Praça da Figueira 18 t 213 424 470. prawns at the bar, giving way
Daily 8am–8pm. Opened in 1829 later on to local diners who
and little changed since, with a tend to eat meals chosen from
stand-up counter selling pastries the window displays, though
and sweets below a mirrored there are also some meat dishes
ceiling.There’s a little side room on the menu. Expect to pay
and outdoor seating for sit- E18 and up.
down coffees and snacks.
Andorra
Nicola Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 82
Rossio 24 t213 460 579. Mon–Fri t 213 426 047. Daily noon–midnight.
9am–7.30pm, Sat 10am–1pm. The Boasting an outdoor terrace on
only surviving Rossio coffee one of the broadest stretches of
house from the early twentieth the street, this is the perfect
century, a former haunt of some place for people-watching and
of Lisbon’s great literary figures. remains perenially popular with
The outdoor tables overlooking tourists.The Portuguese fish
the bustle of Rossio are the dishes and grills are good but
café’s best feature, though it has slightly overpriced.
sacrificed much of its period
interior in the name of Bom Jardim/Rei dos Frangos
modernization. Trav. de Santo Antão 11–18 t213 424
389. Daily noon–11.30pm. This is the
Suíça
Rossio t 213 214 090. Daily
7am–9pm. Famous for its cakes
and pastries; you’ll have a hard
job getting an outdoor table
here, though there’s plenty of
room inside.The café stretches
through to Praça da Figueira,
where you’ll find the best
alfresco seating.
Restaurants
Adega Santo Antão
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 42.
Tues–Sun noon–11pm. Very good-
value adega (wine cellar).There’s
a bustling bar area, and tables
inside and out where you can
tuck in to great grilled meat and
fish dishes; the grilled sardines
are always superb. RESTAURANT TOUTS ON
RUA PORTAS DE SANTO ANTÃO
Contents Places
78
place for spit-roast chicken, as broiled eel with bacon, or
long as you don’t mind food lobster, and there are crepes for
with a high grease content. dessert. Reservations advised.
Other dishes are also good
value. It’s now so popular, it has Leão d’Ouro
spread into three buildings on Rua 1° de Dezembro 105 t 213 426

either side of the alley – if one 195. Daily noon–2pm & 7pm–midnight.
is full, try another.There are Cool and attractive azulejo
plenty of tables outdoors, too. covered restaurant, usually
frequented more by tourists
Casa do Alentejo than Lisboetas. It specializes in
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58 seafood and grilled meats and
t213 469 231. Daily noon–3pm & prices are quite high, but then
7–11pm. As much a centre so is the quality. Dinner
dedicated to Alentejan culture as reservations are advised.
a restaurant, “Alentejo House”
has an extravagantly decorated Sol Posto
interior, complete with stunning Calçada de Sant’Ana 11. Daily
inner courtyard and 9am–11pm. Reached up a scarily
seventeenth-century furniture. steep sidestreet, Sol Posto is a
Various exhibitions are held popular spot for huge and
here, lending a gravitas to the inexpensive arroz (rice) dishes –
sound Portuguese food served marisco (seafood) and pato (duck)
in the two upstairs dining rice are two specialities. Fellow
rooms. Mid-priced Alentejo diners are more likely to be
specialities include sopa à from the local neighbourhood
alentejana (garlic soup with egg) than a tour bus.
and carne de porco à alentejana
(grilled pork with clams).
Reservations advised.
Celeiro
Rua 1° de Dezembro 65 t213 422
463. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm. Just off
Rossio, this inexpensive self-
service restaurant in the
basement of a health-food
supermarket offers tasty
vegetarian spring rolls, quiches,
pizza and the like. Go for the
food, not the decor or
ambience.
Gambrinus
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 15
t213 421 466. Daily noon–2am.
Rated one of Lisbon’s top
seafood restaurants, with a
smart, wood-panelled interior
and crisp, expensive, old-
fashioned service.The menu
features seasonal delights like
OUTSIDE SEATING AT SOLMAR
Contents Places
79
Solar dos Presuntos Ginginha-Rubi
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 150 Rua B. Queiroz. Daily 9am–10.30pm.
t 213 424 253. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & Worth a peer inside for its
7–10.30pm. The “Manor House beautiful azulejos, this tiny
of Hams” is, not surprisingly, watering hole offers ginginha

best known for its smoked ham with or without the cherry
from the Minho region in stone (some argue that its
northern Portugal, served cold presence enhances the alcoholic
as a starter.There are also content).
excellent if expensive rice and
game dishes, not to mention a
good wine list; the service can
be overly formal. Reservations
advised.
Solmar
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 108
t 213 423 371. Daily noon–3pm &
7–10pm. A cavernous if pricey
seafood restaurant, complete
with fountain and marine
mosaics, worth a visit as much
for the experience as for the
food, which can be hit or miss.
Splash out on one of the
lobsters trussed up in the
bubbling tanks and you
shouldn’t leave disappointed.
Bars
A Ginginha
Largo de São Domingos 8. Daily
9am–10.30pm. Everyone should
try ginginha – Portuguese cherry
brandy – once.There’s just
about room in this microscopic
joint to walk in, down a glassful
and stagger outside to see the TILED INTERIOR OF GINGINHA-RUBI
city in a new light.
Contents Places
The Sé and around PLACES
� RADORES
ÃO
Baixa
Praça do Comércio
80
The Sé and around
May–Sept Tues–Sat 10am–6.30pm,

Sun 9am–5pm; Oct–April Mon–Sat
10am–5pm. Free. The Sé was
Praça da Figueira
R U A
D O S
Santos
Oficios
F A N Q
Contents
U E I R O
AV.
Terreiro do Paço
(from 2004) M
28
S
�
East of the Baixa, the streets begin to rise steeply up
one of Lisbon’s many hills. The slopes around the Sé –
Lisbon’s cathedral – probably helped buffet the area
from the worst effects of the 1755 earthquake; though
most of the buildings date from the nineteenth century,
many are pre-quake survivors.
The Sé
Largo da Sé T218 866 752.
R U A
25
D A
INFANT
M A D
E
A L E N
Conceição Velha
A
RUA DA
6
TRA
V. D
R . PA D
ALFÂND
Estação
Fluvial
EG
.A
CA
LM
A R IA
RU
A LÇ
R.
D.
DA
2
D. RU
A
CO
S.
3 AN
EI
RR
DA
Santo
Conserveira
HENRI
T
de Lisboa R
A D
OS
QUE
VE
O
S
D E António
PE
BA
7
AF
LH
DR
ÓN
CA
A
O
Barreiro
Places
IEL
AS
LH
UA
OE
RU
NE
IO
A
GR
DA
founded in 1150 to
commemorate the city’s
reconquest from the Moors on
the site of their main mosque.
It’s a Romanesque structure
DE
AS
CR
SC
IRO
25
CR
SÃ
S
ISPI
Museu
O
M
do Teatro
.D
E
ANT
ÓNIO
RUA AUGUSTO ROSA
UZES DA
AN
AS
SÉ
TRA
M
R . D. INS T. MACHADO
Tram route
Roman
Theatre
AM
Sé
S
ED
Casa dos
Bicos
Rio Tejo
100 m
E
R. BA
RUA
LG.
A LB A FO N
UQU SO
ERQ DE
UE
DO
SL
RU
Espaço
Oikos
OIO
AD
S
AS
A D
AU
TRA
A MA
RU DA
O B
EATING & DRINKING

Adega Triunfo
Delhi Palace
Estrela da Sé
Flôr da Sé
Hua Ta Li
Pé Sujo
6
5
3
2
7
Retiro del Castilho 4
1
N
S
DA S
DA
28
RUA S
DE
R U V. D AS MERCEEIRAS
ARÃ
R. D
SÃO JOÃO E
O
DA PRAÇA
. TI
SUS
AG
O
ARCO DE JE
1 Castelo
Alfama
81
but the tradition halted when

the last one died in 1978.To this
day, however, the birds remain
one of the city’s symbols.
PLACES The Sé and around

Igreja de Santo António
and Museu Antoniano
Largo S. António da Sé T218 869
145. The eighteenth-century
church of Santo António
(open daily) is said to have been
built on the spot where the
city’s most popular saint was
born as Fernando Bulhões; after
his death in Italy he became
known as Saint Anthony of
Padua.The tiny neighbouring
museum (Tues–Sat 10am–1pm
& 2–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm; e1,
free on Sun) chronicles the
saint’s life, including his enviable
skill at fixing marriages, though
only devotees will find interest
THE SÉ
in the statues and endless
images.
with a suitably fortress-like
appearance, yet is extraordinarily Conceição Velha
restrained in both size and Rua da Alfandega T218 870 202.
decoration.The great rose Mon–Sat 8am–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm.
window and twin towers form a Free. The church of Conceição
simple and effective facade, Velha was severely damaged by
although there’s nothing the 1755 earthquake, but is still
particularly exciting inside: the in possession of its flamboyant
building was once splendidly fifteenth-century Manueline
embellished on the orders of doorway.This is an early
Dom João V, but his Rococo example of the brilliant
whims were swept away by the architectural style named after
1755 earthquake and subsequent the reign of Dom Manuel, king
restorers. All that remains is a of Portugal, during the great age
group of Gothic tombs behind of discoveries.The interior of
the high altar and the decaying the church, however, rebuilt
thirteenth-century cloister after the earthquake, is relatively
(Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; e0.50). plain, with just one nave.
The Baroque sacristy (same
hours as cloisters; e2.50) holds a Tram #25
small museum of treasures The open area to the east of
including the relics of Saint Conceição Velha is the terminus
Vincent, brought to Lisbon in for another of Lisbon’s classic
1173 in a boat that was piloted tram rides, the #25, which sees
by ravens, according to legend. far fewer tourists than tram #28
Ravens were kept in the but takes almost as picturesque a
cloisters for centuries afterwards, route. From here it trundles
Contents Places
The Sé and around PLACES 82
TINNED FISH IN CONSERVEIRA DE LISBOA
along the riverfront and up quickly grew thanks to its fish-

through Lapa and Estrela to the preserving industries.The fruits
suburb of Prazeres, best known of this wealth can be seen in the
as the site of one of Lisbon’s sparse ruins of a Roman theatre,
largest cemeteries. dating from 57 AD, which are
fenced off just north of Rua
Casa dos Bicos Augusto Rosa.The finds
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros T 218 810 900. excavated from the site can be
Mon–Fri 9.30am–5.30pm. Free. The seen at the adjacent Museu do
Casa dos Bicos means the Teatro Romano, which also has
“house of points”, and its video and computer-generated
curious walls – set with exhibits telling the story of the
diamond-shaped stones – offer theatre’s history.
an image of the richness of pre
1755 Lisbon. It was built in
1523 for the son of the Viceroy Shops
of India, though only the facade
of the original building survived Conserveira de Lisboa
the earthquake. It is in fairly Rua dos Bacalhoeiras 34 T 218 871
regular use for cultural 058. Wall-to-wall tin cans make
exhibitions; at other times, you this colourful shop a bizarre but
can look around the remains of intriguing place to stock up on
Roman fish-preserving tanks tinned sardines, squid, salmon,
and parts of Lisbon’s old mussels and just about any other
Moorish walls (demolished in sea beast you can think of.
the fifteenth century), which
were excavated during Espaço Oikos
renovation work in the 1980s. Rua Augusto Rosa 40. Housed in
the stables of a former
Museu do Teatro Romano Archbishop’s Palace, this
Entrance on Patio de Aljube 5 T 218 atmospheric stone-floored space
885 958; w www.museu-teatroromano sells stylish antiques, African and
.net. Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 2–6pm. Oriental crafts and world music
Free. Roman Lisbon – Olisipo – CDs. It also holds frequent
became the administrative exhibitions, usually connected
capital of Lusitania, the western to the developing world with
part of Iberia, under Julius exhibits displayed in huge stone
Caesar in 60 BC, and its wealth troughs.
Contents Places
83
Santos Ofícios there is a good range of

Rua da Madalena 87. Small shop vegetarian dishes. Friendly,
stuffed with a somewhat English-speaking Indian owners.
touristy collection of regional
crafts, but including some Estrela da Sé
PLACES The Sé and around

attractive ceramics, rugs, Largo S. António da Sé 4 T218 870
embroidery, baskets and toys. 455. Mon–Fri noon–3pm & 7–11pm.
There’s another branch at the Beautiful azulejo-covered
Lisbon Welcome Centre (see restaurant near the Sé, serving
p.68). inexpensive and tasty dishes like
alheira (chicken sausage) and
salmon. Its wooden booths –
Cafés perfect for discreet trysts – date
from the nineteenth century.
Flôr da Sé
Largo da Sé. Mon–Sat 7am–8pm. Hua Ta Li
Convenient pastelaria with a Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 119 T 218 879
counter stuffed full of pastries 170. Daily noon–3.30pm &
and savouries.Tables are set out 6.30–11pm. Very good value
beneath azulejos depicting Santo Chinese restaurant, especially
António. It also does decent, popular for Sunday lunch, when
inexpensive lunches. it heaves with people (so it’s
best to book). Seafood scores
highly; try the squid chop suey.
Restaurants Retiro del Castilho
Adega Triunfo Rua da Padaria 34. Daily
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 129. Tues–Sun 7am–midnight. Budget meals eaten
noon–midnight. One of best of the off paper-topped tables in a
moderately priced café- subterranean vault off Rua de
restaurants along this street. It São Julião. A good lunchtime
has a changing menu of meat spot, especially if you like filling
and fish dishes, pricier seafood soups.
and cheap house wine.The
feijoada (bean stew) is a good
bet, and the air-conditioning Clubs
comes into its own in high
summer. Pé Sujo
Largo de São Martinho 6–7 T218 866
Delhi Palace 144. Tues–Sun 11pm–3am. The
Rua da Padaria 18–20 T218 884 203. “Dirty Foot” is five minutes’
Tues–Sun noon–3pm & walk from the Sé. Hit a good
6.30pm–midnight. This bizarre night and there’ll be massive
combination of Indian and audience participation and
Italian cuisine is all the rage in table-banging samba sessions in
Lisbon, and the attractively tiled the tiny room with a large
Delhi Palace offers decent curries wooden terrace outside, though
and pretty passable pizzas and it’s less lively if the house band
pastas for a good price. Goan isn’t up to scratch.
prawn curry is excellent, and
Contents Places
�
The Alfama and the riverfront PLACES
� M
SC
E. D E
SO
■
RIS PIM
RQUDE
E
pónia
■
■
SAN
ED
anto
tónio
Sé
EIRA
ANDEGA
S
CO
■■
TO
E
Z
■
84
The Alfama and the

riverfront
The oldest part of Lisbon, Alfama was buttressed
against significant damage in the 1755 earthquake by
the steep, rocky mass on which it’s built. Although none
of its houses dates from before the Christian
Reconquest, many are of Moorish design with a kas
bah-like layout.
■
In Moorish times, this was the grandest part of the
city, but as Lisbon expanded the new Christian nobility
moved out, leaving it to the local fishing community.
Today, although tourist shops and fado restaurants are
moving in, the quarter retains a quiet, village-like quali
ty, with life continuing much as it has done for years in
the maze-like streets: people buying groceries and fish
from hole-in-the-wall stores; householders stringing
washing across narrow defiles and stoking small out
door charcoal grills. Half the fun of exploring here is
getting lost but, at some point, head for Rua de São
■ ■ ■■ ■
SR U A D A
R. DA SS TA . CR UZ DO
INHO
CASTELO
ROSA
CRUZ
■
■
R. BAR
Roman
Theatre
É
E
DA S S
LG.
RUA DO
. G USMÃO
do Teatro
R U A A U G US T O
Casa dos
Bicos
R
S
E
S FLO RES D T EL
CAS LG.O DE
DO
RU
EATING & DRINKING

Cerca Moura
Clube do Fado
1
8
Jardim do Marisco 9
Lautasco
Contents
6
STA. CRUZ
DO CASTELO
RUA RECOLHIMENTO
CHÂO
A
Museu AUDAD
LOIO
DA
S
MENINO
DE DEUS
S A N TA
CRUZ
DA FEIRA
LAR
28
GO
RUA
DO
S
DA
A A
E
C
BAR
CAM
P
. MA
O
PATEO
D. FRADIQUE
R
Museu de Artes
Decorativas
R U DA M
S
S.
RUA
ÃO
D
TIA
U A TRAV. DAS MERCEEIRAS

DO
RUA D E S Ã
D
ARCO DE
A
JESUS
S CE B O
G O
Miradouro
da S. Luzia
OL
LAS
I
8
JOÃO D
E IR
MO
AP
O
S. J O
Ã
LG.
O
CAIS
R
G. ITA
LARGO DOL FRE
1
D
T R A O DA
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V. D PR
DE
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D. S
RU A
LUZ E STA
SA
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PORTAS
DO
SOL
OM É
R U A DA ADIÇA
AÇ
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LARGO DO
TERREIRO
DO TRIGO
M
A
IN
FA
Malmequer-Bemmequer 5
Mesacais
N
A Parreirinha de Alfama
Places
28
B . D E STA
B. D
.
Santa
Luzia
T
D
H
LARGO DE
S. RAFAEL
10
3
DO
M
HE
EL
N
OS
R.
R. DO SA
EN
C
A E
LV
DO
CA
R. D.
MI . DE
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A
EL
LG. DE STA.
R
MARINHA
OL
RU
ST
RU
A
IV EI
A
DE
LARGO DO
B. D.
CARD
DE
S
T. A R I N
OSA
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SE
Ã
ST A
SC O L A
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SALVADOR R U A G.
IC Ã
. P São
ALFAMA
O
Miguel
5
POCIN
RU
HO
OP
A.
E
S. M
OS
OD S
BEC TUME
COR
DRO
7
E IR
AT
SG
DAS ESCOLAS
2
LARGO DO
PENEIREIRO
E S.
R. DIGUEL
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ADCA
L
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Ç. D
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BR
BECO D.
AZINHAL
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O
REG
OT
AG
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A
LARGO
LO
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A DE DENTRO
QU
E
Doca
C.
DE S
Do Jardim
Do Tobaco 10
. VICENTE
Santo RU A DES VIGÁRIO

Estevão
RU
TEV
ÃO
A SA
3
ÉD
Casa RU
do Fado
Santo António de Alfama

Taverna do Embuçado
A Taverna do Julião
0
28
RU A D O S
IOS
N TO
RU
ES
Ter
C OR
AD
reir
a do igo
Doc do Tr
o
V cente
de Fora
OS
BEC
A D.
Tram route
VO
RE
OD
JAR
S
DIM
LAP
DO T
9
100 m
ABAC
N
A
O
4
7
2
RU
AD
C
O
RUA
85
Miguel – off which run some of the most interesting

becos (alleys) – and for the parallel street Rua de São
Pedro, where varinas (fishwives) sell the catch of the
day from tiny stalls.
PLACES The Alfama and the riverfront

Fado
Fado (literally “fate”) is often described as a kind of working-class blues. Popular
themes are love, death, destiny, bullfighting and indeed fate itself. It is believed to
derive from music that was popular with eighteenth-century immigrants from
Portugal’s colonies who first settled in Alfama. Famous singers like Maria Severa
and Amália Rodrigues grew up in Alfama, which since the 1930s has hosted some
of the city’s most authentic fado houses. Contemporary singers to look out for are
Helder Moutinho, Carlos do Carmo, Maria da Fe and Cristina Branco, though you
may find the most entertaining fado of all is performed spontaneously by amateurs
in bars and restaurants.
Casa do Fado e Henrique, lies the dockland

da Guitarra Portuguesa development of the Doca do
Largo do Chafariz de Dentro T218 823 Jardim do Tobaco. Its name,
470. Daily 10am–1pm & 2–6pm. “Tobacco Garden Dock”, refers
e2.50. Set in the renovated to its previous role as the city’s
Recinto da Praia, a former water
cistern and bathhouse, the Casa
do Fado e da Guitarra
Portuguesa provides an excellent
intro-duction to fado, the
mournful Portuguese musical
sound that emerged from the
Alfama alleys.The museum
details the history of fado and its
importance to the Portuguese
people; its shop also stocks a
great selection of CDs. A series
of rooms in the museum
containing wax models, pictures
and descriptions of fado’s leading
characters also trace the history
of the Portuguese guitar, an
essential element of the fado
performance. Push buttons to
listen to the different types of
fado (Lisbon has its own kind,
differing from that of the
northern city of Coimbra),
varying from mournful to
positively racy.
Doca do Jardim do Tobaco

On the riverfront, across the
busy Avenida Infante Dom ALFAMA STREET
Contents Places
86
main depot for storing tobacco. Museu de Artes Decorativas
The old warehouses, facing one Museum Largo das Portas do Sol 2
of the broadest sections of the T218 881 991, w www.fress.pt.
Rio Tejo, have now been Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. e5. Set in the
spruced up and it’s a great place seventeenth-century Azurara
for a sunset drink or an evening Palace, this fascinating museum

meal with the views from the contains some of the best
outdoor tables of its restaurants examples of seventeenth- and
attracting a largely local crowd. eighteenth-century applied art
in the country.The rambling
Miradouro de Santa Luzia building has unique pieces of
Steeply uphill, the church of furniture, major collections of
Santa Luzia marks the entry to silver and porcelain, and
the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, a magnificent paintings and
spectacular viewpoint where textiles on five floors, set around
elderly Lisboetas play cards and a stairway decorated with
tourists gather to take in the dazzling azulejos. Highlights
sweeping views across the include a stunning sixteenth-
Alfama and the river beyond. century tapestry depicting a
Opposite is the main, well- parade of giraffes, beautiful
signed marked route up to the carpets from Arraiolos in the
entrance to the Castelo de São Alentejo district, and oriental-
Jorge (see p.90). influenced quilts that were all
the rage during the seventeenth
and eighteenth centuries.The
museum also has a small café
with a patio garden.
Cafés
Cerca Moura
Largo das Portas do Sol 4 T 218 874
859. Mon–Sat 11am–2am, Sun
11am–8pm. A good if pricy café-
bar in which to take a break
from climbing up and down the
hilly streets. However, the main
appeal is the stunning view of
Alfama from the esplanade
seats.
Restaurants
Jardim do Marisco
Avda Infante Dom Henrique, Doca do
Jardim do Tobaco Pavilhão AB T218
824 240. Daily 1–3.30pm & 8–11pm.
Best-positioned of the row of
pricey warehouse restaurants in
the Doca Jardim do Tobaco
A SHADY SPOT IN THE ALFAMA
Contents Places
87
PLACES The Alfama and the riverfront

MIRADOURO DE SANTA LUZIA
development.The counter by closed last week in Oct. Cheerily

the main entrance groans under decorated and moderately
the weight of crabs, giant priced place, overseen by a
prawns and shellfish and, not friendly owner. Grilled meat
surprisingly, seafood is the and fish dishes dominate the
speciality – grilled, served in menu (try the salmão no carvão –
salads, or with pasta or açorda (a charcoal-grilled salmon), or eat
garlic and bread sauce).There’s from the daily changing tourist
an upstairs terrace with great menu for around e15.
river views and an airy interior
with high ceilings. Mesacais
Avda Infante Dom Henrique, Doca do
Lautasco Jardim do Tobaco Pavilhão AB T 218
Beco do Azinhal 7 T218 860 173. 877 155. Tues & Wed 8pm–midnight,
Mon–Sat 10am–3pm & 9–11.30pm; Thurs & Fri 8pm–2am, Sat 1–3pm &
closed Dec. Tucked just off the 8pm–2am, Sun 1–3pm &
Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, in 8pm–midnight. Classy, riverside
a picturesque Alfama courtyard; haunt specializing in fondue
by day a shady retreat, by night dishes that bubble at your table.
a magical, fairy-lit oasis. Multi The fish and seafood is also
lingual menus and higher-than superb and includes espetado de
usual prices suggest a largely lulas com camarão (squid kebabs
tourist clientele, but it’s a great with prawns).The starters –
spot for borrego (lamb), tamboril octopus and runny cheeses – are
(monkfish) or cataplanas (stews). delicious but add considerably
Bookings advised. to a bill which is usually on the
high side. Reservations advised.
Malmequer-Bemmequer
Rua de São Miguel 23–25 T218 876 Santo António de Alfama
535. Mon & Wed–Sat 12.30–3.30pm & Beco de São Miguel 7 T 218 881 328
7–10.30pm, Tues 7pm–10.30pm; or 218 881 329. Daily except Tues
Contents Places
88
8pm–1am. With black-and-white a decorative feature, and a
photos of film stars on the wall mainly local clientele. It attracts
and a lovely outdoor terrace small-time performers, up-and
shaded by vines, this is one of coming talent and the
the nicest restaurant-bars in the occasional big name. Minimum
Alfama; it’s off Rua de São charge around e12.

Miguel, and you should book to
guarantee a table.There’s a very A Parreirinha de Alfama
long list of expensive wines, but Beco do Espírito Santo 1 T 218 868
the food (dishes like carpaccio de 209. Daily 8pm–2am. One of the
carne – meat carpaccio – and bife best fado venues, just off Largo
com molho do mostarda – beef do Chafariz de Dentro, often
with mustard sauce) is more attracting leading stars and an
moderately priced. enthusiastic local clientele.
Reservations are advised when
the big names appear.
Clubs Minimum charge around e13,
but expect to spend around
Clube do Fado e30 with food.
Rua de São João da Praça 92–94
T 218 852 704. Daily 8.30pm–2am. Taverna do Embuçado
Intimate and homely fado club Beco dos Cortumes 10 T 218 865
with stone pillars, an old well as 088. Mon–Sat 8.30pm–2.30am. First
opened in 1966, this fado adega
SÃO MIGUEL, ALFORNA rarely gets too packed, even
when the big-name artists are in
town.The food is great, too,
though you can expect to pay a
minimum of e18, and up to
e40 with food.
A Taverna do Julião
Largo do Peneireiro 5 T 218 872 271.
Wed–Sun 9pm–2am. An authentic
fado club in the heart of
Alfama.The house singer,
Argentina Santos, is well worth
catching. Minimum charge
around e12.
Contents Places
Praça da Figueira
� Castelo, Mouraria
and Graça
The remains of the Castelo de São Jorge form a little
oasis of tranquillity in a dazzling position high above the
city. The castle and the surrounding ancient districts of
Mouraria and Santa Cruz are, along with Alfama, the
oldest and most interesting areas of Lisbon. To get an
aerial view of this neighbourhood, head to the nearby
district of Graça, which sits next to Lisbon’s highest hill.
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PLACES Castelo, Mouraria and Graça
R D. S. GLORIA
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90
palace on Praça do
Comércio.
Subsequently, the castle
was used as a prison for
a time and then as an
Castelo, Mouraria and Graça PLACES
army barracks until the

1920s. The walls were
partly renovated by
Salazar in the 1930s
and further restored for
the Expo 98. A series of
gardens, walkways and
viewpoints hidden
within the old Moorish
walls makes this an
enjoyable place in
which to wander about
for a couple of hours,
with spectacular views
over the city from its
ramparts and towers.
VIEW FROM CASTLE
Câmara Escura
Castelo de São Jorge Daily every 30min, weather permitting,
T 218 877 244. Daily: March–Oct 10am–1.30pm & 2.30–5pm; closed 1
9am–9pm; Nov–Feb 9am–6pm. Free. Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec. e2. One of
Reached by a confusing – but the castle towers, the Tower of
well-signposted – series of Ulysses, now holds a kind of
twisting roads, the Castelo de periscope which projects sights
São Jorge is perhaps the most from around the city onto a
spectacular building in Lisbon, white plate with commentary in
as much because of its position English. Unless you like being
as anything else. Favoured by holed up in dark chambers with
lovers and tourists alike, the up to fifteen other people,
castle’s current function is far though, you may prefer to see
removed from its historical the view in the open air.
role. This was once the heart
of a walled city that spread Olisipónia
downhill as far as the river. T218 877 244. Daily: May–Sept
The castle’s fortifications were 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; Oct–April
strengthened after the original 10am–1pm & 2–5.30pm. e1.50. Of
Moorish castle was besieged in the old Moorish Alcáçova, only
1147 by a gang of ruthless a much-restored shell remains.
Crusaders, who conquered This now houses Olisipónia (the
Lisbon after some four Roman name for the city), a
hundred years of Moorish multimedia history shown in
rule. From the fourteenth three underground chambers.
century, Portuguese kings took Portable headsets provide a 35
up residence in the old minute commentary on aspects
Moorish palace, or Alcáçova, of Lisbon’s development;
within the walls, but by the although the presentations
early sixteenth century they overlap somewhat and gloss over
had moved to the new royal a few of Lisbon’s less savoury
Contents Places
91
chapters, such as slavery and the 1271 – to Miradouro da Graça,

Inquisition, they are a useful where you can admire superb
introduction to the city. views over Lisbon and the
castle.
Santa Cruz and Mouraria

Crammed within the castle’s Tram #28
outer walls is the tiny medieval The picture-book tram #28 is
quarter of Santa Cruz, very one of the city’s greatest rides,
much a village in itself, with though its popularity is such
kids playing in the streets and that there are usually queues to
women chatting on doorsteps – get on and standing room only
though the area is currently is more than likely. Built in
undergoing substantial England in the early twentieth
redevelopment, with the century, the trams are all
opening of the exclusive Solar polished wood and chrome but
do Castelo hotel (see p.185) a give a distinctly rough ride up
possible sign of things to come. and down Lisbon’s steepest
Leaving Santa Cruz, a tiny arch streets, at times coming so close
at the end of Rua do Chão da to shops that you could almost
Feira leads through to Rua dos take a can of sardines off the
Cegos and down to Largo shelves. From Graça, the tram
Rodrigues de Freitas, which plunges down through Alfama
marks the eastern edge of to the Baixa and up to Prazeres,
Mouraria, the district to which to the west of the centre.
the Moors were relegated after
the siege of Lisbon – hence the
name.Today Mouraria is an Shops
atmospheric residential area
with some of the city’s best Casa do Governador
African restaurants, especially Castelo de São Jorge. Right by the
around Largo de São Cristóvão. castle entrance – so aimed at
passing tourists – the former
Graça Governor of Lisbon’s house is
The ever-popular tram #28 (see now a shop with an eclectic
opposite) begins its route in the collection of art books, black-
broad Largo da Graça. Head past and-white postcards of old
Nossa Senhora da Graça – a Lisbon, fado and world music
church which partly dates from CDs, and some tasteful ceramics.
VIEW OVER EASTERN LISBON
Contents Places
92
Cafés
O Café do Castelo
Castelo de São Jorge. Daily 9am–dusk.
Set within the castle walls, this
Castelo, Mouraria and Graça PLACES
café offers good-value buffet

lunches (all you can eat for e7)
and drinks. Its outdoor tables are
beautifully positioned under
shady trees, with the castle’s
resident peacocks for company.
Matas
Largo da Graça 63B. Tues–Sat
9am–9pm. Handily over the
square from the tram #28 stop,
this little café in a completely
tiled building has tables inside
or out for drinks and
inexpensive lunches such as
salads and grills.
Restaurants
Arco do Castelo
Rua do Chão da Feira 25 T218 876
598. Mon–Sat noon–midnight.
TERRACE OF CASA DO LEÃO
Cheerful place just below the
entrance to the castle,
specializing in moderately São Cristóvão
priced Goan dishes – choose Rua de São Cristóvão 28–30 T218
from tempting shrimp curry, 885 578. Daily 10.30am–midnight.
Indian sausage or spicy seafood. Titchy good-value Cape
Verdean restaurant, which crams
Casa do Leão in tables, a TV and live music on
Castelo de São Jorge T218 875 962. Friday to Sunday evenings, all
Daily 12.30–3.30pm & 8–10pm. This overseen by the motherly owner
restaurant couldn’t be better – Mento. Dishes include
situated, within the castle walls, catchupa rica (pork, chicken,
providing a superb city view maize and beans) and galinha
from its outside terrace and tiled caboverdiana (chicken with
interior. Service is slick and the coconut milk).There are also
top-rate traditional Portuguese Portuguese and Angolan
food includes caldeirão de cabrito specialities. It’s a good idea to
(goat stew). Prices are high but reserve for dinner as there’s not
not outrageous, though there’s much room.
also a tourist menu at around
e30. Reservations advised. A Tasquinha
Largo do Contador Mor 5–7. Mon–Sat
10am–11pm. Considering its
position on the main route up
Contents Places
93
to the castle, this lovely tasca Sun 3pm–9pm. Closed Jan & Feb.
(dining room) has remained Beautifully positioned terrace-
remarkably unaffected by café with Baixa views, a long list
tourism.The food – grilled fish of cocktails and a restaurant
and chicken – is good value, serving mid-price Mozambican

too, served either at the few dishes.There’s live music
tables in the traditionally (usually Brazilian or jazz) on
decorated interior, or on a fine Thursday and Friday nights, and
outdoor terrace. occasional poetry readings at
other times.
Teatro Taborda
Costa do Costelo 75 T218 860 104. Esplanada da Graça
Tues–Sun 2pm–midnight. Largo da Graça T217 427 508. Daily
Fashionable theatre café- 10am–2am. A tiny kiosk serving
restaurant with fine views from coffee, drinks and snacks by the
the terrace.The menu offers Miradouro da Graça. It’s not
inexpensive fresh vegetarian cheap, but the seats have
dishes, including vegetable stunning views over the bridge
lasagne, Greek salad and falafels. and the Baixa, particularly at
sunset. After dark, it cranks up a
Via Graça powerful music system to
Rua Damasceno Monteiro 9b T218 change the atmosphere from
870 830. Mon–Fri 12.30–3.30pm & laid-back to decidedly lively.
7.30pm–midnight, Sat
7.30pm–midnight. Tucked away Rêsto do Chapitô
below the Miradouro da Graça Costa do Castelo 7 T 218 867 334.
(take a left after Largo da Graça Tues–Fri 7.30pm–2am, Sat & Sun
becomes Rua da Graça), this noon–2am. Multipurpose venue
smart and expensive restaurant incorporating a theatre, circus
in an unattractive modern school, restaurant and tapas bar.
building is a whole lot better on The outdoor esplanade
the inside, from where you can commands terrific views over
soak up the stunning panoramas Alfama and most people come
of Lisbon. Specialities include here to drink and take in the
partridge with clam cataplana view. In summer there is live
and lobster and bacalhau with jazz most weekend evenings.
spider crab. The restaurant (Tues–Sun
7.30pm–midnight) is in an
upstairs dining room, reached
Bars and clubs via a spiral staircase, and serves
moderately priced pastas, salads
Costa do Castelo and one or two fish and meat
Calçada. do Marquês de Tancos 1b dishes.
T218 884 636. Wed–Sat 4pm–2am,
Contents Places
Eastern Lisbon PLACES
� MA
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94
Eastern Lisbon
East of the castle on the periphery of the Alfama lie two

of Lisbon’s most historic and prominent churches, São
Vicente de Fora and Santa Engrácia. These both deserve
a visit, especially if you are around when the rambling
Feira da Ladra flea market enlivens the area. Down on
the riverfront, Santa Apolónia, Lisbon’s main internation
al train station, is situated in a revitalized area that
boasts the city’s most fashionable club and there have
been plans to establish the docks further with a new
cruise ship terminal and casino. The industrial dock area
east of here is of less interest, apart from the fascinating
tile museum that lies a short bus ride away.
RÁ RI O
2
28
LARGO DE
SÃO VICENTE
Contents
R UA DE S Ã O V IC E N TE
LARGO
RU A D O S
Santo R UA DE S V IGÁRI
RU A S
DO CHAFARIZ
DE DENTRO
Doca
Casa
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Do Jardim
Do Tobaco
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Places
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C A M P O DE S
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LARGO DOS
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EATING & DRINKING

Bica do Sapato
Casanova
Chafarica
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Monasterium Café
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PRAÇA DR.
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O
Museu Nacional do Azulejo and Parque das Nações
95
PLACES Eastern Lisbon

VIEW FROM CAFE TERRACE, SÃO VICENTE DE FORA
São Vicente de Fora Feira da Ladra

Tues–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–7pm, Tues and Sat 6am–around 3pm. The
Sun 9am–12.30pm & 3–5pm. Free. broad, leafy square of Campo de
The church of São Vicente de Santa Clara is home to the
Fora stands as a reminder of the twice-weekly Feira da Ladra
extent of the sixteenth-century (“Thieves’ Market”), Lisbon’s
city; its name means “Saint main flea market. It’s not the
Vincent of the Outside”. world’s greatest market, but it
It was built during the years of does turn up some interesting
Spanish rule by Philip II’s Italian things, like oddities from the
architect, Felipe Terzi former African colonies and old
(1582–1629); its severe Portuguese prints. Out-and-out
geometric facade was an junk – from broken alarm
important Renaissance clocks to old postcards – is
innovation.Through the spread on the ground above
cloisters, decorated with azulejos Santa Engrácia, with cheap
representing scenes from clothes, CDs and half-genuine
Portugal’s history, you can visit antiques at the top end of the
the old monastic refectory, feira.The covered mercado
which since 1855 has formed (market) building does a fine
the pantheon of the array of fresh fruit and
Bragança dynasty (Tues–Sun vegetables.
10am–5.30pm; E2). Here, in
more or less complete sequence, Santa Engrácia
are the bodies of all the Tues–Sun: May–Oct 10am–6pm;
Portuguese kings from João IV, Nov–April 10am–5pm. E2 (free on Sun
who restored the monarchy in 10am–2pm). The white dome of
1640, to Manuel II, who lost it Santa Engrácia makes it one of
and died in exile in England in the most recognizable buildings
1932. Among them is Catherine on the city skyline.The loftiest
of Bragança, the widow of and most tortuously built
England’s Charles II, who is church in the city, it has become
credited as having introduced synonymous with unfinished
the concept of teatime to the work – begun in 1682, it was
Brits.There’s a café (see p.96) at only completed in 1966. It is
the church if you do fancy a now the Panteão Nacional,
cup of tea. housing the tombs of eminent
Portuguese figures, including
Contents Places
96
writer Almeida Garrett – former terrace with stupendous views
presidents, notably Sidónio Pais, over Alfama and the Tejo
president during World War I – (including an aerial view of
and Amália Rodrigues, tram #28 squeezing through its
Portugal’s most famous fado narrowest street).
Eastern Lisbon PLACES
singer.You can take the lift up

to the dome, from where there
are great views over the flea Restaurants
market, port and city.
Bica do Sapato
Museu Nacional do Azulejo Avda Infante Dom Henrique, Armazém
Rua da Madre de Deus 4, T218 147 B, Cais da Pedra à Bica do Sapato
747. Tues 2–6pm, Wed–Sun T218 810 320. Mon 5pm–2am,
10am–6pm. E2.50, free on Sun. Bus Tues–Sat 9am–2am. Owned by
#104 or bus #105. The tile actor John Malkovich, and
museum is Lisbon’s most attracting politicians and the
interesting small museum.The glitterati, this very stylish but
Museu Nacional do Azulejo refreshingly informal warehouse
traces the development of the conversion has mirrored walls to
distinctive Portuguese azulejo reflect the crisp Tejo vistas.
tiles from fifteenth-century There’s an outside terrace, too.
Moorish styles to the present The expensive menu features a
day. It is installed in the church long list of international fish and
and cloisters of Madre de Deus, meat dishes such as crab ravioli,
whose eighteenth-century tiled as well as great ciabatta
scenes of the life of Saint sandwiches, pasta, carpaccio and
Anthony are among the best in sushi. Reservations advised.
the city. Upstairs there are
temporary exhibitions usually Casanova
related to tiles.The highlight, Avda Infante Dom Henrique, Loja 7
however, is Portugal’s longest Armazém B, Cais da Pedra à Bica do
azulejo – a wonderfully detailed Sapato T218 877 532. Tues
forty-metre panorama of 6pm–2am, Wed–Sun 12.30pm–2am. If
Lisbon, completed in around Bica do Sapato is beyond your
1738.The museum café- budget, the more modestly
restaurant is a great spot for priced Casanova next door offers
lunch, with meals taken in the pizza, pasta and crostini
leafy garden.There is also a accompanied by similar views
good museum shop selling from its outside terrace. It’s
high-quality azulejos. phenomenally popular and you
can’t book, so turn up early.
Cafés Mercado de Santa Clara

Campo de Santa Clara T 218 873 986.
Monasterium Café Tues–Sat 12.30–3pm & 8pm–midnight,
Igreja São Vincente de Fora, Calçada Sun 12.30–3pm. Highly rated
de São Vicente T 218 885 652. cuisine is served in the upstairs
Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. The café in room of the old market
the São Vicente monastery building, with distant views of
building boasts comfortable the Tejo. Come on Tuesday or
indoor seating, a tranquil patio Saturday lunchtime to be in the
and, best of all, a small roof thick of the Feira da Ladra
Contents Places
97
market bustle.The restaurant Lux

specializes in moderately priced Armazéns A, Cais da Pedra a Santa
beef dishes, but also serves more Apolónia, w www.lux@luxfragil.com.
pricey fish, while on Sunday Tues–Fri 6pm–6am, Sat & Sun
feijoada is the dish of the day. 4pm–6am. This converted former
PLACES Eastern Lisbon

Reservations advised. meat warehouse has become
one of Europe’s most
fashionable spaces, attracting
Clubs visiting stars like Prince and
Cameron Diaz. Part-owned by
Chafarica actor John Malkovich, it was the
Calçada de São Vicente 79 T218 867 first place to venture into the
449. Mon–Sat 10pm–3.30am. Long- docks opposite Santa Apolónia
established Brazilian bar with station.There’s a rooftop terrace
live music every night from with amazing views, various
around 11pm. Best after bars, projection screens, a
midnight, especially after a few frenzied downstairs dance floor,
caipirinhas, the lethal Brazilian and music from pop and trance
concoction of rum, lime, sugar to jazz and dance.The club is
and ice. also increasingly on the circuit
for touring bands.
MERCADO DE SANTA CLARA
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Cais do Sodré and Chiado PLACES
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Cais do Sodré
and Chiado
The area west of the Baixa presents two very different
faces of Lisbon. Down on the waterfront Cais do Sodré
(pronounced kaiysh doo soodray) is a characterful,
slightly down-at-heel suburb enlivened by some good
restaurants, clubs and bars. Many of its waterfront
warehouses have been converted into upmarket cafés
and restaurants and by day, in particular, a stroll along
its atmospheric riverfront is very enjoyable. Nearby
Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon’s main market, is also big
on atmosphere, as is the hillside Bica district, which is
served by another of the city’s classic elevador street
lifts – Elevador da Bica. Rising above Cais do Sodré
both literally and metaphorically, the well-to-do district
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EATING & DRINKING

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Praça
Baixado Comércio
Praça do Comércio
99
of Chiado (pronounced she-ar-doo) is famed for its

smart shops and cafés, along with the city’s main
museum for contemporary arts. It was greatly damaged
by a fire in August 1988, although the original Belle
Epoque atmosphere has been superbly re-created
PLACES Cais do Sodré and Chiado

under the direction of eminent Portuguese architect
Álvaro Siza Vieira.
Mercado da Ribeira squarely aimed at tourists, the

The Mercado da Ribeira is Loja de Artesenato (daily
Lisbon’s main and most 10am–10pm), specializing in art
interesting market. Built and crafts from Lisbon and the
originally on the site of an old Tejo valley, at least keeps
fort at the end of the traditional crafts alive.There are
nineteenth century, the current various food stalls (daily
structure only dates from 1930. 10am–11pm) on this level
The main market downstairs selling produce from the
(Mon–Sat 6am–2pm) has an Portuguese regions, including
impressive array of food and superb fresh breads, cheeses,
fish of all shapes and sizes – wines and petiscos (snacks);
there are also spices, fruit and there’s also a restaurant
vegetables. In the past it was specializing in regional food. A
traditional for Lisboetas to central stage hosts live music
enjoy a cacau da Ribeira (cocoa) (Fri & Sat 10pm–1am) at
here after a night out on the weekends, ranging from jazz to
town, and the local council folk.
recently decided to renovate
the market building in an Elevador da Bica
attempt to restore this social Mon–Sat 7am–10.45pm, Sun
function.The upper level is 9am–10.45pm. E1. With its
now a centre for regional arts entrance tucked into an arch on
and gastronomy and, although Rua de São Paulo, the Elevador
FLOWER SELLERS OUTSIDE CAIS DO SODRÉ STATION
Contents Places
100
Museu do Chiado
Rua Serpa Pinto 4 T 213 432 148.
Tues 2–6pm, Wed–Sun 10am–6pm.
E3, free on Sun until 2pm. The
Museu do Chiado, Lisbon’s
contemporary art museum, is a

stylish building with a pleasant
courtyard café and rooftop
terrace, constructed around a
nineteenth-century biscuit
factory.Temporary art
exhibitions often take up some
of the gallery space, while the
museum displays a permanent
collection of works by some of
Portugal’s most influential artists
since the nineteenth century.
Highlights include António
Costa Pinheiro’s portrait of
Fernando Pessoa and a beautiful
sculpture, A Viúva (The Widow),
FISH STALL IN MERCADO DA RIBEIRA
by António Teixeira Lopes along
with some evocative early
twentieth-century Lisbon scenes
da Bica is one of the city’s most by water-colourist Carlos
atmospheric funicular railways. Botelho.There is also a small
Built in 1892 – and originally collection of French sculpture,
powered by water including Rodin’s The Bronze
counterweights, but now Age.
electrically operated – the
elevador leads up towards the Teatro Nacional
Bairro Alto, via a steep de São Carlos
residential street with drying Rua Serpa Pinto 9 T 213 468 408,
laundry usually draped from Wwww.saocarlos.pt. Open for
every window.Take time to performances only. Lisbon’s main
explore the steep side streets of opera house, the Teatro
the Bica neighbourhood, too, a Nacional de São Carlos, was
warren of atmospheric houses built shortly after the original
and little shops. Lisbon opera house on Praça do
Comércio was destroyed in the
Miradouro de Santa Catarina Great Earthquake. Heavily
The Miradouro de Santa influenced by the leading Italian
Catarina is a broad viewpoint opera houses, it has a sumptuous
with spectacular views back Rococo interior, but you can
over the river. Here, in the only see it during performances
shadow of the statue of the of opera, ballet and classical
Adamastor – a mythical beast music.
from Luís de Camões’s Lusiads –
a mixture of oddballs and Rua Garrett
guitar-strumming New Age Chiado’s most famous street,
hippies often collects around the Rua Garrett, is where you’ll
handy drinks kiosk, which has a find some of the oldest shops
few outdoor tables. and cafés in the city, as well as
Contents Places
101
the Igreja dos Mártires, named Chiado in a structure that has

after the English Crusaders who risen from the ashes of the
were killed during the siege of Chiado fire, though it retains its
Lisbon. Some of the area’s best traditional facade.Various shops
shops can also be found in include branches of Massimo

nearby Rua do Carmo, virtually Duti (women), and the classy
rebuilt from scratch after the toy shop Imaginarium.The top
1988 fire. floor has a series of cafés and
restaurants, including Brazilian
chain Chimarrão, most offering
Shops great views.
Ana Salazar Fábrica Sant’anna

Rua do Carmo 87 T 213 472 289; Rua do Alecrim 95 T213 422 537. If
w www.anasalazar.pt One of you’re interested in Portuguese
Lisbon’s best-known names for azulejos, check out this factory
designer clothes, though her shop, founded in 1741, which
reputation is based more on sells copies of traditional designs
style than on the materials used. and a great range of pots and
There’s another branch at Avda ceramics.
da Roma 16.
José Dias Sobral
Armazéns do Chiado Rua de São Paulo 218 T213 425 903.
Rua do Carmo 2 t213 210 600. Daily Founded in 1880 and barely
10am–10pm, restaurants until changed since, this traditional
midnight. This well-designed workshop at the foot of the
shopping centre sits on six Elevador da Bica sells quality
floors above metro Baixa- leather belts, briefcases and shoe
laces.
MUSEU DO CHIADO CAFÉ GARDENS
Contents Places
102
Livraria Bertrand pedestrianized street get snapped
Rua Garrett 73 T 213 421 941. up by tourists, but the real
W www.bertrand.pt. Portugal’s appeal is in its traditional
oldest general bookshop, interior, where prices are
founded in 1773 and once the considerably cheaper than on
meeting place for Lisbon’s the outdoor esplanade, especially

literary set.With novels in if you stand at the long bar. At
English and a range of foreign night the clientele changes to a
magazines, it’s also a good place more youthful brigade, all on
to find English translations of the beer.
Portuguese writers like
Fernando Pessoa. Café No Chiado
Largo do Picadeiro 11 T213 424 717.
Luvaria Ulisses Mon–Sat 10pm–2am. Café
Rua do Carmo 87a T213 420 295. restaurant at the top end of Rua
The superb, ornate doorway Duque de Bragança, with
leads you into a minuscule glove outdoor tables in a picturesque
shop with hand-wear to suit all square.There’s Internet access
tastes tucked into rows of boxes. upstairs at Ciber Chiado.
Torres and Brinkmann

Rua Nova da Trindade 1b. The best
place in the city to buy cookery
equipment; it has stylish, high-
quality pots, pans and utensils,
including coffee-making gear
and griddles.There’s another
branch just up the road at Trav.
da Trindade 18–22, specializing
in porcelain, glass and silverware.
Cafés
Bernard
Rua Garrett 104 f 211 373 133.
Mon–Sat 8am–midnight. Often
overlooked because of its
proximity to A Brasileira, this
ornate café offers superb cakes,
ice cream and coffees; it has an
outdoor terrace on Chiado’s
most fashionable street.
A Brasileira
Rua Garrett 120 T213 469 547. Daily
8am–2am. Opened in 1905, and
marked by an outdoor bronze
statue of the poet Fernando
Pessoa, this is the most famous
of Lisbon’s old-style coffee
houses.The tables on the
TRAM #28 PASSING CAFÉ NO CHIADO
Contents Places
103
Wagons-Lit is particularly busy at lunchtime,
Estação Fluvial. Mon–Fri 7am–10pm, when you may have to wait for
Sat & Sun 7am–8.30pm. A simple a table.
and tranquil spot with outdoor
tables facing the river, offering Chez Degroote

inexpensive coffees, drinks and Rua dos Duques de Bragança 4 T213
snacks. A great place to while 472 839. Mon–Fri noon–3pm &
away a few minutes if you have 7.30–11.30pm, Sat 7.30–11.30pm.
a ferry or train to catch from Romantic spot in a tastefully
Cais do Sodré. done up town house, with
soaring ceilings and shuttered
windows. Specialities include
Restaurants various beef dishes, omelettes
and fish, with some delicious
Associação Católica starters, too.
Travessa do Ferragial 1. Mon–Fri
noon–3pm. There’s no sign on the L’Entrecôte
door but look for no. 1 on this Rua do Alecrim 121 T213 428 343.
small road just off Rua do Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm & 8pm–midnight,
Ferragial and head to the top Sun 12.30–4pm & 8pm–midnight. This
floor for a self-service canteen upmarket, relaxing, wood
offering a choice of different panelled restaurant with soaring
dishes – from grilled fish to ceilings has won awards for its
large salads – each day.The chief entrecôte, which is just as well, as
attractions are the low prices that’s all it serves. It is truly
and the rooftop terrace with delicious, dished up with a
fine views over the Tejo. superb creamy sauce.There’s also
a good set menu for around
Cais da Ribeira E15. Dinner reservations
Armazém A, Porta 2 T213 463 611 or advised.
213 423 611. Tues 7.30–11.30pm,
Wed–Sat 7pm–2am, Sun noon–4pm & Español
7–11pm. On the riverfront next Calçada Nova de São Francisco 2
to Cais do Sodré station, this T 213 470 895. Daily noon–midnight.
attractive converted warehouse A little slice of fashionable
with river views serves superior Spain, with high bar stools,
fish, meat and seafood straight spinning ceiling fans and
from the market. Specialities outdoor tables on a steep
include paella (for two people) stepped street. Choose from
and flambéed desserts. some great tapas lined up at the
bar, a drink, or a full meal of
O Canteiro tortilla, hams and the like.
Rua Vitor Cordon 8–10. Mon–Fri
7am–8pm. On a steep street Tágide
served by tram #28, the cool, Largo Academia das Belas Artes 18–20
azulejo-covered interior T213 420 720. Mon–Fri
harbours an inexpensive self- 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm. One
service counter feeding local of Lisbon’s priciest restaurants,
workers with a fine range of serving superb Portuguese
dishes, like tuna and black-eyed dishes such as partridge in port
bean salad or bacalhau rissoles, and octopus in red wine.The
followed by fresh strawberries. It light and airy dining room has
Contents Places
104
367. Mon–Sat noon–midnight.
Wonderful Anglo–Portuguese
hybrid stuck in a 1930s time
warp, featuring ceiling fans,
marble counter and dark
wooden shelves stacked with

wines and spirits.There’s also
Guinness on tap and regulars
who look as if they’ve been
coming here since the day it
opened.
SHOESHINER IN RUA GARRETT
Caffè Rosso
sweeping city views that are Galerias Garrett, Rua Ivens 53–61
hard to beat. Book ahead, (entrance on Rua Garrett) T213 471
especially for a window seat, and 524. Daily 9am–2am. Relaxed
expect to spend at least E30 per courtyard bar in the shopping
person. gallery, with seats under huge
square canopies. It serves coffee
Tavares Rico and snacks, too, including pizzas
Rua da Misericórdia 35 T213 421 and burgers, and there’s a
112. Mon–Fri 12.30–3pm & spacious downstairs room with
7.30–11pm, Sun 7.30–11pm. modernist seats and lighting.
Gloriously ornate restaurant,
one of Lisbon’s oldest, dating Heróis
from 1784, where you can dine Calçada do Sacramento 14. Mon–Sat
in splendour on richly prepared 10pm–2am, Sun 5pm–2am. Popular
lobster, duck or sole. gay bar with modern decor. It
also serves light meals.
Bars and clubs Irish Pub O’Gilins

Rua dos Remolares 8–10 T213 421
Baliza 899. Daily 11am–2am. The oldest
Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo 51 T213 and best of Lisbon’s Irish bars,
478 719. Mon–Fri 1pm–2am, Sat with a pleasant, light, burnished
4pm–2am. Small, friendly café-bar wood interior.There’s live music
at the top of the Elevador da from Thursday to Saturday, and
Bica. Gays and locals from this English-language pub quizzes
traditional district come together (mostly aimed at expats) on
to enjoy the music, from jazz to Sundays.
Latin, retro to dance.
Jamaica
Bicaense Rua Nova do Carvalho 8 T213 421
Rua da Bica Duarte Belo 38–42. 859. Mon–Thurs 11pm–4am, Fri & Sat
Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm & 8pm–2am. 11pm–6am. Well-established club
Small, fashionable bar on the on a somewhat down-at-heel
steep street used by the Elevador road full of tacky nightlife
da Bica, with jazz and Latin venues.This is definitely the best
sounds and a moderately priced one, attracting a mixed bag of
bar food menu. sailors, students, expats and
trendies. Music is predominantly
British Bar retro, with reggae on Tuesday
Rua Bernardino Costa 52 T213 422 nights.
Contents Places
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The Bairro Alto, the upper town, sits solidly on a flat hill
west of the Baixa. After the 1755 earthquake this rela
tively unscathed district became the favoured resi
dence of the aristocracy and the haunt of Lisbon’s
young bohemians. Home to the the Institute of Art and
Design and various designer boutiques, it is still the
city’s most bohemian district. By day, the quarter’s grid
of narrow, seventeenth-century streets feel essentially
residential, with grocery stores open to the pavement
and children playing in the cobbled streets. After dark,
however, the area throngs with drinkers, clubbers and
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PLACES The Bairro Alto
106
diners visiting its famed fado houses, bars, restaurants
and shops, and this is by far the best place in the city
for a meal or evening out. The most lively nightlife can
be found in the tight grid of streets to the west of Rua
da Misericórdia, particularly after midnight in Rua do
The Bairro Alto PLACES
Norte, Rua Diário de Notícias, Rua da Atalaia and Rua

da Rosa. Running steeply downhill towards São Bento,
Rua do Século is one of the city’s most historic streets;
a sign at no. 89 marks the birthplace of the Marquês
de Pombal.
steam, until electricity was
introduced.
At the top of the Elevador
da Glória, most people pause
at the gardens, the
Miradouro de São Pedro
de Alcântara, from where
there’s a superb view across
the city to the castle.
Igreja de São Roque

Largo de Trindade Coelha T 213
235 000. Daily 8.30am–5pm. Free.
The Igreja de São Roque
stands in Largo Trindade
Coelho, a square with a
diminutive statue of a lottery
seller. From the outside, this
looks like the plainest church
in the city, its bleak
Renaissance facade having
been further stripped of
CONVENTO DO CARMO RUINS decoration by the earthquake.
But inside lies an astonishing
Elevador da Glória succession of side chapels,
Daily 7am–1am. E1. Everyone lavishly crafted with azulejos,
should ride the Elevador da multicoloured marble and
Glória at least once to Baroque painted ceilings.
experience one of the city’s The highlight is the Capela
most amazing feats of de São João Baptista,
engineering. From the bottom estimated for its size to be the
of Calçada da Glória (off Praça most expensive chapel ever
dos Restauradores, see p.75), constructed. It was ordered
funicular-like trams climb the from Rome in 1742 by Dom
gut-bustingly steep street in a João V to honour his patron
couple of minutes, leaving the saint and, more dubiously, to
lower city behind as you ascend gratify the pope, whom he had
above its rooftops. Built in persuaded to confer a
1885, the tram system was patriarchate on Lisbon.
originally powered by water Designed using the most costly
displacement and then by materials available, including
Contents Places
107
ivory, agate, porphyry and lapis
lazuli, it was erected at the
Vatican for the pope to
celebrate Mass in, before being
dismantled and shipped to

Lisbon at the then vast cost of
£250,000. If you take a close
look at the four “oil paintings”
of John the Baptist’s life, you’ll
find that they are in fact
intricately worked mosaics.
Today, the lapis lazuli and more
valuable parts of the altar front
are kept in the adjacent
museum (May–Oct Tues–Sun
10am–5pm; Nov–April daily
10am–noon & 1–5pm; E2.50,
free on Sun), which also
displays sixteenth- to LARGO DO CARMO
eighteenth-century paintings
and the usual motley collection Ferdinand I; nearby, that of
of church relics. Gonçalo de Sousa, chancellor to
Henry the Navigator, is topped
Convento do Carmo by a statue of Gonçalo himself,
Tues–Sun: April–Sept 10am–6pm; his clasped arms holding a book
Oct–March 10am–5pm T213 460 to signify his learning. Other
473. E2.50, free on Sun. The pretty, noteworthy pieces include
enclosed Largo do Carmo holds sixteenth-century Hispano-
the entrance to the ruined Arabic azulejos, an Egyptian
Gothic arches of the beautiful sarcophagus (793–619 BC),
Convento do Carmo. Built whose inhabitant’s feet are just
between 1389 and 1423, and visible underneath the lid and,
once the largest church in the even more alarmingly, two pre-
city, it was half-destroyed by the Columbian mummies which lie
1755 earthquake but is perhaps in glass cases, alongside the
even more striking as a result. In preserved heads of a couple of
the nineteenth century its shell Peruvian Indians. Elsewhere
was adapted as a chemical there are arrowheads, prehistoric
factory but today it houses the ceramics and coins dating back
splendidly capricious Museu to the thirteenth century.
Arqueológico do Carmo, The Elevador de Santa Justa
home to many of the treasures (see p.69) has its exit at the side
from monasteries that were of the Convento do Carmo –
dissolved after the 1834 Liberal but this has been closed for
revolution.The entire nave is structural works for some time.
open to the elements, with
columns, tombs and statuary
scattered in all corners. Inside, Shops
on either side of what was the
main altar, are the main exhibits, Eldorado
centring on a series of tombs. Rua do Norte 23–25 T 213 423 935.
Largest is the beautifully carved, An interesting mixture of club-
two-metre-high stone tomb of wear and second-hand cast-offs
Contents Places
108
alongside old records and CDs,
aimed at Lisbon’s young
groovers. A good place to head
for if you need a new wardrobe
for a night out without breaking
the bank.
Espaço Fátima Lopes

Rua da Atalaia 36 T213 240 540.
One of the few large-scale shops
in the Bairro Alto and flagship
store for Lisbon’s top designer.
Her clothes are bold, colourful
and confident, reflecting the
current mood of many young
Portuguese. She also runs a club
in the basement, though
seemingly only when she feels
like it. STATUE, LARGO TRINDADE COELHO
drinks and snacks, it also does

Cafés light lunches; in summer, the
grilled sardines are hard to beat.
Académica
Largo do Carmo 1–3 T213 469 092.
Daily 7am–midnight. Outdoor tables Restaurants
on one of the city’s nicest,
quietest squares, outside the 1° de Maio
ruined Carmo church. Besides Rua da Atalaia 8 T213 426 840
Mon–Fri noon–3pm & 7–10.30 pm, Sat
BAIRRO ALTO NEWSAGENTS 7–10.30pm. Traditional adega
(wine cellar) with a low, arched
ceiling, art on the walls and
pleasantly faded decor.There are
some excellent dishes of the day
and an array of sizzling grilled
meat and fish dishes at moderate
prices. Get there early to be sure
of a table.
Águas do Bengo
Rua do Teixeira 1 T213 477 516.
Tues–Sat 7.30pm–midnight. Owned
by Angolan musician Waldemar
Bastos, this African music bar-
restaurant serves slightly pricey
tropically inspired dishes, from
grilled fish to chicken stewed
with palm oil. If Waldemar is in
town and in the mood, he’ll
grab his guitar and play a tune
or two. Reservations advised.
Contents Places
109
Bota Alta steep steps heading down

Trav. da Queimada 37 T 213 427 959. towards Rossio, though unlike
Mon–Fri noon–4.30pm & 7–11pm, Sat most others on this stretch,
7pm–midnight. Old tavern there are no outdoor tables.
decorated with old boots (botas)

and an eclectic picture Cervejaria da Trindade
collection. It attracts queues for Rua Nova da Trindade 20 T213 423
its vast portions of sensibly 506. Daily 9am–2am. The city’s
priced traditional Portuguese oldest beer-hall dates from
food – bacalhau com natas (cod 1836. At busy times you’ll be
cooked in cream) among other shown to your table; at others,
things – and jugs of local wine. try and avoid the dull modern
The tables are crammed in and extensions and find space in the
it’s always packed; try to arrive original vaulted hall, decorated
before 8pm or book in advance. with some of the city’s loveliest
azulejos depicting the elements
Brasuca and seasons. Shellfish is the
Rua João Pereira da Rosa 7 T213 220
740. Daily noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm;
closed Mon Nov–April. Well-
established Brazilian restaurant
in a great old building.
Moderately priced dishes
include feijoada moqueca (chicken
and bean stew), picanha (slices of
garlicky beef) and lots of other
meaty choices. Reservations
advised, unless you don’t mind
waiting for a table.
O Cantinho do Bem Estar

Rua do Norte 46. Daily 7–11pm. The
decor borders on Portuguese
kitsch, with ceramic chickens
and over-the-top rural decor,
but the “canteen of well-being”
lives up to its name. Service is
friendly and, from the menu, the
rice dishes and generous salads
are the best bet; the passable speciality, though the other fish
house wine is served in ceramic and meat dishes are lighter on
jugs. the wallet.There is also a patio
garden and – a rarity – a
Casa Trasmontana children’s menu; highchairs can
Calçada. do Duque 39 T213 420 be supplied.
300.Daily noon–3pm & 7pm–2am. A
different dish of the day – Novo Bonsai
usually meat-orientated – is on Rua da Rosa 248 T213 462 515.
offer in this tiny restaurant Mon–Sat 12.30–2pm &
specializing in cuisine from the 7.30–10.30pm. Classy Japanese
north of Portugal. It’s one of the restaurant with low tables and
most authentic options on the silk screens.The long menu is
Contents Places
110
the walls testify).
Portions aren’t huge by
local standards, but the
crisp-like fried potatoes
are a hit. Reservations
advised.
Restaurante Calcuta
Rua do Norte 17 T 213 428
295. Mon–Sat noon–3pm &
6.30–11pm. Very popular
Indian restaurant
attracting a youngish
clientele. Lots of
chicken, seafood and
lamb curries, tandoori
dishes, and good
not bad value and the fresh vegetarian options. Reservations
ingredients are prepared at an advised.
open kitchen.There’s superb
fresh sushi, or go for the Sinal Vermelho
tempura, introduced to Japan by Rua das Gáveas 89 T 213 461 252.
Portuguese explorers in the Daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11.30pm;
sixteenth century. Reservations closed July. Roomy, split-level
advised. adega (wine cellar) that’s popular
with Lisbon’s moneyed young.
Pap’Açorda Specialities include well-
Rua da Atalaia 57–59 T213 464 811. presented rabbit and liver dishes
Tues–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 8–11pm. and there’s an impressive wine
Renowned restaurant which list.You may have to wait in line
attracts Lisbon’s luvvies and if you don’t book ahead.
fashionable elite to its
chandelier-hung dining room, Sul
converted from an old bakery. Rua do Norte 13 T213 462 449.
Açorda – a sort of bread stew, Tues–Sun noon–2am. Jazzy, split-
seasoned with fresh coriander level wine bar and restaurant.
and a raw egg – is the house The upper level (weekend
speciality, served with seafood. reservations advised) does
Reservations advised. interesting food from “o sul”
(the south) – the Med and
A Primavera do Jerónimo South America (from pasta to
Trav. da Espera 34 T213 420 477. steaks) – while the lower level
Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 7–11pm. This features a neat bar with classy
tiny place neatly crams in a wines and bar snacks.
couple of dozen diners, a bar
and a kitchen area, overseen by Vá e Volte
the owner and his daughter. Rua do Diário de Notícias 100 T213
Azulejos inscribed with 427 888. Tues–Sun noon–2am. The
Portuguese proverbs dot the small bar at the front opens into
walls, while the home-cooked a friendly little family diner
Portuguese dishes are highly where the large plates of fried
rated (as newspaper reviews on or grilled fish and meat served,
Contents Places
111
though nothing special, are (around E10) and enjoyable,

reliably cooked, filling and inexpensive food.
moderately priced.There are
outdoor tables in summer. Arroz Doce
Rua da Atalaia 117–119 T213 462

601. Mon–Sat 6pm–4am. Nice,
Bars and clubs unpretentious bar in the middle
of the frenetic Bairro Alto
121 nightlife, with friendly owners;
Rua do Norte 117–119. Tues–Sat try “Auntie’s” sangria, poured
7pm–3.30am. Laid back lounge from a jug the size of a house.
bar with low, comfy seats,
aboriginal art and ambient Bar Ártis
sounds; the TVs in the corner Rua do Diário de Notícias 95 T213
rather spoil the effect though. 424 795. Tues–Fri 8.30pm–2am, Sat &
Sun 8.30pm–4am. A laid-back jazz
Adega Machado bar with arty posters on the wall
Rua do Norte 91 T213 224 640. and marble table tops. It’s
Tues–Sun 8.30pm–3am. One of the popular with creative types, who
longest-established Bairro Alto usually spend a night here in
joints, as the faded photos on animated conversation over a
the wall attest, presenting fado few bottles of its excellent vinho.
from both Lisbon and Coimbra. Also does a fine range of snacks,
A minimum charge of E16 like chicken tostas (toasted
builds to at least E20 a head if sandwiches).
you sample the fine Portuguese
cooking. Clube da Esquina
Rua da Barroca 30 T213 427 149.
Adega Mesquita Daily 4.30pm–2am. Lively little
Rua do Diário de Notícias 107 T213 corner bar with ancient radios
219 280. Daily 8pm–1.30am. on the walls and DJs spinning
Another of the big Bairro Alto discs on a good, old-fashioned
fado names, featuring better- turntable. Attracts a young crowd
than-average music and enjoying vast measures of spirits.
traditional dancing and singing.
It packs in the tourists, although Frágil
the food here is poor. Minimum Rua da Atalaia 126 T213 469 578,
consumption E16. Wwww.fragil.com. Daily 11pm–4am.
BAIRRO ALTO STREET
Adega do Ribatejo
Rua do Diário de Notícias 23 T213
468 343. Mon–Sat 7.30pm–12.30am.
This great little adega is a
favoured haunt for British artists
Gilbert and George. It’s popular
with locals, too, who describe
the fado here as “pure
emotion”.The singers include a
couple of professionals, the
manager and – best of all – the
cooks. Also has one of the
lowest minimum charges
Contents Places
112
Lisbona
Rua da Atalaia 196 T 213 471 412.
Mon–Sat 7pm–2am. Earthy bar
attracting its fair share of local
characters and Bairro Alto
trendies. Decor is basic –

chequerboard tiles covered in
soccer memorabilia, old film
posters and graffiti – but there’s
catchy music and good beer.
Portas Largas
Rua da Atalaia 105 T218 466 379.
Daily 8pm–2am. The bar’s portas
largas (big doors) are usually
thrown wide open, inviting the
neighbourhood into this friendly
89 RUA DO SECULO
BIRTHPLACE OF MARQUÊS DE POMBAL
black-and-white-tiled adega
(wine cellar).There are cheapish
This has long been one of drinks, music from fado to pop,
Lisbon’s most popular clubs, and and a young, partly gay clientele,
it remains very lively, which spills onto the streets on
particularly from Thursday to warm evenings before hitting
Saturday, though it doesn’t really Frágil, just over the road.
get going until after 1am. It’s
partly gay, definitely pretentious Purex
and has a strict door policy (it Rua das Salgadeiras 28. Tues–Sun
helps if you’re young and 11pm–4am. This small and
beautiful). Music is house and friendly dance bar, popular with
techno.You’ll need to ring the lesbians but not exclusively so,
bell to get in. offers ambient music on
Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and
Harry’s Bar more upbeat sounds –
Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara 57–61 guaranteed to fill the small
T 213 460 760. Daily 10pm–6am. A dance floor – on Thursday to
tiny front-room bar, featuring Sunday nights.
waiter service, tasty bar snacks
and fado sounds. It’s frequented Restaurante Luso
by an eclectic clientele, Trav. da Queimada 10 T213 422 281.
including slightly older luvvies Mon–Sat 6pm–4am. A rather dark
from the nearby gay discos who restaurant that packs in its
pop in for late drinks. Ring the customers for decent but very
bell for admission. expensive food (served until
midnight) and some interesting
Keops sounds. Portuguese folk dancing
Rua da Rosa 157–159 T213 428 773. kicks things off at around 9pm,
Mon–Sat 10pm–3.30am. Friendly with fado from 11pm. Minimum
bar, playing everything from consumption of around E16.
Moby to Madonna.The doors
are thrown open to the street, Sétimo Céu
while the candlelit interior Trav. da Espera 54 T213 466 471.
enhances the laid-back Mon–Sat 10pm–2am. A real success
atmosphere. story of recent years; now an
Contents Places
113
obligatory stop for gays and A Tasca Tequila Bar
lesbians, who imbibe beers and Trav. da Queimada 13–15. Daily
caipirinhas served by the 11.30am–2am. Colourful Mexican
Brazilian owner.The great bar which caters to a good-time
atmosphere spills out onto the crowd downing tequilas,

street. margaritas and Brazilian
caipirinhas.
A Severa
Rua das Gáveas 51–61 T213 428 Tertúlia
314. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun Rua do Diário de Notícias 60 T213
9.30pm–1am. A city institution, 462 704. Mon–Thurs 8.30pm–3am, Fri
named after the nineteenth- & Sat 8.30pm–4am. Relaxed café-
century singer Maria Severa. bar with inexpensive drinks,
The club attracts big fado names newspapers to browse,
and equally big prices. background jazz and varied art
Minimum consumption E18, exhibitions that change every
more like E23 with food (served couple of weeks.There’s a piano
until midnight). for customers, too, in case you
get the urge to play.
Solar do Vinho do Porto
Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara 45 Os Três Pastorinhos
T213 475 707, w www.ivp.pt. Rua da Barroca 111 T 213 464 301.
Mon–Sat 2pm–midnight. Firmly on Mon–Sat 9pm–4am. Welcoming
the tourist circuit, the Port music bar with great dance
Wine Institute is set in the sounds (soul, reggae and Latin).
eighteenth-century Palácio It attracts a slightly oddball
Ludovice.The Institute, based in crowd and gets very busy at
the northern city of Porto, weekends.
regulates and promotes the
production of port wine. It
opened its Lisbon headquarters
here in 1944 and now lures in
visitors with over three hundred
types of port, starting at around
E1 a glass and rising to some
E25 for a glass of 40-year-old
JW Burmester. Drinks are
served at low tables in a
comfortable old eighteenth-
century mansion.The waiters
are notoriously snooty and the
cheaper ports never seem to be
in stock, but it’s still a good
place to kick off an evening.
O Tacão Grande
Trav. da Cara 3. Daily midnight–4am.
For those into raw rock, free
peanuts, inexpensive beer and
lots of youthful company, this
barn-like place is the one for
you. CALÇADA DO TIJOLO
Contents Places
�
Praça do Príncipe Real and around PLACES
OR
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Palácio de Assembleia
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114
Praça do Príncipe Real

and around
North of the tight Bairro Alto grid, the streets open out
around the leafy Praça do Príncipe Real, one of the
city’s loveliest squares. Laid out in 1860 and surrounded
by the ornate homes of former aristocrats – now largely
turned into offices – the square is the focal point of
Lisbon’s best gay nightclubs, though by day it is largely
populated by children in the local play park and old men
playing cards under the trees. The square also shelters
a surprising underground museum, and is a short walk
from the well-hidden but extensive botanical gardens.
Museu da Água
Príncipe Real
Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. E1.25. The
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Contents
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square’s central pond and

fountain are built over a covered
reservoir that houses the Museu
da Água Príncipe Real. Steps
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115
PLACES Praça do Príncipe Real and around

PASTELARIA SÃO ROQUE
lead down inside the dreary collection of stuffed

nineteenth-century reservoir, animals, eggs and shells, though
where you can admire eerie temporary exhibitions, can be
brick pillars and vaulted ceilings, more diverting.
part of a network of
underground water supplies that Jardim Botânico
link up with the Aqueduto das May–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat &
Águas Livres (see p.138). One of Sun 10am–8pm; Nov–April Mon–Fri
the tunnels from this reservoir 9am–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm.
heads down through what is E1.50. The nineteenth-century
now the Enoteca wine bar (see botanical gardens are almost
p.117).The museum also hosts entirely invisible from the
occasional temporary art exhibits surrounding streets and provide
which you can admire from a a tranquil escape from the city
series of walkways winding bustle.The Portuguese explorers
among the columns, usually introduced many plant species
accompanied by ambient music. to Europe and these gardens,
laid out between 1858 and
Museu da Ciência and 1878, are packed with twenty
Museu da História Natural thousand neatly labelled species
The museums of science and from around the world. Steep,
natural history are housed in shady paths lead downhill under
the Neoclassical former towering palms and luxuriant
technical college.The Museu da shrubs.
Ciência opposite (Mon–Fri
10am–1pm & 2–5pm, Sat
3–6pm; closed Aug; E2) has Cafés
some absorbing geological
exhibits and a low-tech Pão de Canela
interactive section where you Praça das Flores 27–28 T213 972
can balance balls on jets of air 220. Mon–Fri 7.30am–8pm, Sat & Sun
and swing pendulums among 8am–8pm. Tastefully modernized,
throngs of school kids. tile-fronted café serving great
The Museu da Historia pastries, soups and snacks.The
Natural opposite (Mon–Fri outdoor terrace faces a
10am–noon & 1–5pm; closed children’s play area on this
Aug; free), houses a rather lovely square.
Contents Places
116
Pastelaria São Roque
Rua Dom Pedro V 57c T213 224 358.
Daily 7am–7.30pm. Relaxed corner
café-cum-bakery with a
wonderfully ornate high ceiling,
Praça do Príncipe Real and around PLACES
where you can have coffee and

croissants or buy fresh bread.
Restaurants
Comida de Santo
Calçada Engenheiro Miguel Pais 39
T213 963 339. Daily 12.30–3.30pm &
7.30pm–1am. Rowdy, late
opening and pricey Brazilian
restaurant serving cocktails and
classic dishes such as feijoada a
brasileira (Brazilian bean stew). OUTSIDE TABLES CAFÉ IN
PRÍNCIPE REAL
closed late Aug to late Sept. A
Conventual traditional restaurant, replete with
Praça das Flores T213 909 196. coloured tiles and confessional-
Tues–Fri 12.30–3.30pm & 7.30–11pm, like cubicles. Huge portions of
Sat & Sun 7.30–11pm. Set in a bacalhau, seafood paella and
former convent, and with an prawns in breadcrumbs are good
appropriately refined value, as are a variety of dishes of
atmosphere, Conventual produces the day.Though the service can
a range of top-quality dishes, be patchy, dinner reservations are
starting with a flavour-packed advised, especially at the
gaspacho, followed by gambas em weekend.
caril (prawn in curry sauce), crepes
de camarão (shrimp crepes) or Tascardoso
perdiz estufada (baked partridge). Rua Dom Pedro V 137 T213 427 578.
A good choice for a special Mon–Fri noon–3pm & 7–10pm. Go
night; reservations are advised. through the stand-up bar and
down the stairs to the tiny eating
Esplanada area for excellent and inexpensive
Praça do Prinçipe Real T962 311 669. tapas-style meats and cheeses and
Daily 8am–midnight. A good range good-value hot dishes.
of tapas, tortilla, quiches and
rustic wholemeal sandwiches
make this an ideal and Bars and clubs
inexpensive lunch spot.The
outdoor tables set under the trees 106
get snapped up quickly, though Rua São Marçal 106 T213 427 373.
the glass pavilion comes into its Daily 9pm–2am. Ring on the
own when the weather turns. It’s doorbell and you’ll be given a
also a popular gay haunt. quick look-over before being
allowed into this friendly gay
Faz Frio bar, which makes a good place
Rua Dom Pedro V 96–98 T213 461 to start the evening. Fridays
860. Daily 9am–midnight; usually often feature leather nights.
Contents Places
117
Bric-a-Brac Bar is now a quirky bar, completely

Rua Cecílio de Sousa 82–84 T213 lined with mirrored cabinets
428 971. Daily 11pm–4am. On a containing a bizarre range of
steep road beyond Praça do artefacts from around the world,
Prinçipe Real, this cruisy gay including a cabinet of model
PLACES Praça do Príncipe Real and around

disco has a large dance floor, trams.There is waiter service
“dark room” and various bars. and the usual drinks are
Occasional strip and drag shows supplemented by a long list of
also feature. exotic cocktails.
Enoteca Snob
Rua da Mãe de Agua T213 422 079. Rua do Século 178 T213 463 723.
Tues–Sun 6pm–2am. This Daily 4.30pm–3am. Cosy if
extraordinary wine bar is set in upmarket bar and restaurant, full
the bowels of a nineteenth- of media types enjoying
century bathhouse whose cocktails. It’s a good late-night
underground tunnels once eating option for inexpensive
piped water into Lisbon.The bar steaks or light snacks.
offers a long list of Portuguese
wines, which you can enjoy Trumps
with regional breads and Rua da Imprensa Nacional 104b T213
assorted petiscos (snacks) at the 971 059. Daily midnight–6am.
tables set beside the cool stone Popular gay disco with a
walls. It gets busy at weekends reasonably relaxed door policy.
so it’s best to reserve if you want It’s a bit cruisy during the
to eat, though you can always middle of the week, and it gets
squeeze in for a drink or sit at packed from Thursday to
one of the outside tables. Saturday, when there’s also a
good lesbian turnout. Drag
Finalmente shows are held on Wednesdays
Rua da Palmeira 38. Daily and Sundays. Admission is free,
midnight–4.30am. A first-class gay though there’s sometimes a
disco with lashings of kitsch, it is minimum consumption of E10
famed for its drag shows at 2am, if the doorman doesn’t like the
featuring skimpily dressed young look of you.
senhoritas camping it up to high-
tech sounds. Entry is free, but
there’s a minimum drinks
consumption of around E5.
Memorial
Rua Gustavo Matos Sequeira 42 T213
968 891. Tues–Sat 11pm–4am, Sun
4pm–8pm. A lesbian and bi club
with floor shows some nights.
Otherwise it’s low key, with
disco and “romantic” sounds.
Pavilhão Chinês
Rua Dom Pedro V 89 T213 424 729.
Mon–Sat 6pm–2am, Sun 9pm–2am.
Once a nineteenth-century tea
and coffee merchants’ shop, this COFFEE AND PASTEL DE NATA
Contents Places
� �
São Bento, Estrela and Lapa P LACES
DABAN
DEIRA
O
E
POSS
NT
.
ES
Alcântara
118
São Bento,
Estrela and Lapa
São Bento is home to the impressive Palácio da
Assembléia – Portugal’s parliamentary building. The
area also houses some good ethnic restaurants and
clubs, a legacy of the city’s first black community –
originally slaves, brought back by Portuguese maritime
adventurers. Beyond São Bento is the leafy district of
AV SAN
SÃ
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Alcântara
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Palace
A
15 18
Contents
ETA
LAPA
ENT
RUA
DE
SA
R. D.
RUA
RUA
RUA
DO
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PA
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Tram route
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Cemitério
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Rio Tejo
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Marioneta R . D S P ER A N Ç A
EATING & DRINKING

Bahia de Todos os Santos
B.leza
Cantinho da Paz
Farah’s Tandoori
Kapital
Places
RU A D A E
ABRANTES
Santos
CALC
AVE
R. D
A
DO
AR
D
ÁL
. R IB EI
ED
VA
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Casa Museu
Amália
FRA
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6
P
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Rodrigues
RUA SANTA AMARO
Palácio da
Assembleia
S
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A V E N I D A D . C A R LO S I
Kremlin
Picanha
RU A D E
28
RUA D
S BE
TO
RU A D O
L. DO C .
BA RÃ O
O Senhor Vinho
JUL
Sítio do pica-pau
Varina da Madragoa
7
RUA
N
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15 18
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9
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6
Bairro Alto
Chiado
Cais de Sodré
119
Estrela, best known for its gardens and enormous basil
ica. To the south of this lies the opulent suburb of Lapa,
Lisbon’s diplomatic quarter, sheltering some of its top
hotels. Sumptuous mansions and villas peer out majes
tically towards the Tejo down below, whilst grand
PLACES São Bento, Estrela and Lapa

embassy buildings and ambassador’s residences line
the Rua do Sacramento à Lapa. The Museu Nacional de
Arte Antiga situated here is Portugal’s national gallery,
while down on the riverfront the busy and unglamorous
Avenida 24 de Julho comes into its own after dark, with
some of Lisbon’s latest opening bars and clubs.
Palácio da Assembléia order of Queen Maria I (whose
The Neoclassical facade of the tomb lies within, and complet
Palácio da Assembléia was ed in 1790, its white dome can
originally that of the Mosteiro be seen from much of the city.
de São Bento, a Benedictine Opposite is the Jardim da
monastery, which the Estrela, one of the city’s most
government took over in 1834 enjoyable gardens; it is a quiet
after the abolition of religious refuge with a pond-side café, a
orders.Today it is the well-equipped children’s play
parliament building; you’re not ground and even a library kiosk
allowed inside unless by special for those who fancy absorbing
arrangement (T 213 919 000), a spot of Portuguese literature
though you can get a good under the palms.
view of its steep white steps
from tram #28 as it rattles Cemitério dos Ingleses
along Calçada da Estrela. The English Cemetery (ring
loudly for entry) is actually a
Casa Museu Protestant cemetery founded in
Amália Rodrigues 1717. Here, among the
Rua de São Bento 193. Tues–Sun cypresses and tombs of various
10am–1pm & 2–6pm. E2. The expatriates, lie the remains of
daughter of an Alfama orange- Henry Fielding, author of Tom
seller, Amália Rodrigues was Jones, whose imminent demise
the undisputed queen of fado
MUSEU NACIONAL DE ARTE ANTIGA
music until her death in 1999,
which instigated three days of
national mourning.The house
where she lived since the 1950s
has been kept as it was,
complete with posters of her
career on stage and in the
cinema.
Basílica and
Jardim da Estrela
Daily 8.30am–noon & 3–8pm. Free.
The impressive Basílica da
Estrela is a vast monument to
late-eighteenth-century
Neoclassicism. Constructed by
Contents Places
120
Wwww.mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt.
E3. Bus #40, #60, #27 or #49. The
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
features the largest collection of
Portuguese fifteenth- and six
São Bento, Estrela and Lapa PLACES
teenth-century paintings in the

country, European art from the
fourteenth century to the pres
ent day and a rich display of
applied art showing the influ
ence of Portugal’s colonial
explorations. Highlights include
Nuno Gonçalves’s altarpiece for
Saint Vincent (1467–70), a bril
liantly marshalled composition
depicting Lisbon’s patron saint
receiving homage from all ranks
of its citizens.
Other highlights include
works by Josefa de Óbidos, con
sidered one of Portugal’s greatest
LAPA MANSION ON RUA DO women painters; Hieronymus
SACREMENTO A LAPA
Bosch’s stunningly gruesome
may have influenced his verdict Temptation of St Anthony in room
on Lisbon as “the nastiest city in 57; an altar panel depicting the
the world”. Resurrection by Raphael;
Francisco de Zurbarán’s The
Casa Museu Twelve Apostles and a small statue
Fernando Pessoa of a nymph by Auguste Rodin.
The Oriental art collection
Rua Coelho da Rocha 16 T213 968
shows the influence of Indian,
190. Mon–Wed & Fri 10am–6pm, Thurs
African and Oriental designs
1–8pm. Free. This unassuming
derived from the trading links of
house is where Portugal’s most
the sixteenth century.There is
celebrated modern writer,
inlaid furniture from Goa and a
Fernando Pessoa, lived for the
supremely satisfying series of
last fifteen years of his life.The
late sixteenth-century Japanese
heavily restored interior con
namban screens (room 14),
tains a few of Pessoa’s personal
showing the Portuguese landing
belongings, including his diaries.
at Nagasaki.The Japanese saw
There are also exhibitions of
the Portuguese traders as south
works by artists influenced by
ern barbarians (namban) with
Pessoa, a library of his own
large noses – hence their
works, and Almada Negreiros’s
Pinocchio-like features. All of
famous painting of the writer,
this is well displayed in a beauti
showing his distinctive specta
fully converted seventeenth-
cles (on display in the museum)
century palace, once owned by
and black hat.
the Marquês de Pombal, with a
café (same hours as museum) in
Museu Nacional attractive formal gardens over
de Arte Antiga looking the Tejo.The palace was
built over the remains of the
Rua das Janelas Verdes 95,
Contents Places
121
Saint Albert monastery, most
of which was razed during the
1755 earthquake, although its
beautiful chapel can still be
seen today.
PLACES São Bento, Estrela and Lapa

Museu da Marioneta
Rua da Esperança 146 T213 942
810. Wed–Sun 10am–1pm & 2–6pm.
E2.50 (children E1.50).
Contemporary and historical
puppets from around the
world are displayed in this
former convent and
demonstrated in a well-
organized museum with its
own café. Highlights include
shadow puppets from the east,
paper marionettes and Spitting
Image-style models from TV.
There are also special
demonstrations and workshops TERRACE OF SÍTIO DO PICA-PAU
for children.
#28, and reservations are

Cafés advised since it’s only small.
There’s shark soup, prawn curry
Sítio do Pica-pau and a few vegetarian options on
Rua dos Remédios à Lapa 61 T213 offer, served in a homely little
978 267. Mon & Wed–Sun 8am–8pm. dining room overseen by an
Tiny café right in the heart of enthusiastic owner who can
Lapa, whose outdoor decking guide you through the well-
commands views over the priced menu.
rooftops and river.
Farah’s Tandoori
Rua de Santana à Lapa 73. Mon &
Restaurants Wed–Sun noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm.
One of Lisbon’s more reliable
Bahia de Todos os Santos Indian restaurants, especially
Rua do Poço dos Negros 64 T213 902 good for vegetarians, who can
629. Daily noon–3pm & 8pm–midnight. choose from dishes like
Good-value Brazilian restaurant, vegetable tikka masala, Bombay
serving picanha (thin slices of aloo and palak paneer. Meat
beef), chicken breasts with dishes are also fragrant and
mustard sauce and giant mixed delicious, and the owners speak
grills for two. English.
Cantinho da Paz Picanha

Rua da Paz 4 T213 969 698. Daily Rua das Janelas Verdes 47 T213 975
12.30–2.30pm & 3.30–11pm. Simple 401. Mon–Fri 12.45–3pm & 7.45–
Goan restaurant favoured by 11.30pm, Sat & Sun 7.45–11.30pm.
MPs from the parliament This ornately tiled restaurant
building; it’s just off tram route specializes in picanha
Contents Places
122
accompanied by black-eyed superb Portuguese dishes such as
beans, salad and potatoes. Great bacalhau, grilled fish and meat.
if this appeals to you, since for a
fixed-price of E13.50 you can
eat as much of the stuff as you Clubs
São Bento, Estrela and Lapa PLACES
want; otherwise forget it, as it’s

all that’s on offer. Advance B.leza
reservations advised. Largo do Conde Barão 50 T 213 963
735. Mon–Sat 11.30pm–4am. Live
African music most nights in
this wonderful sixteenth-
century building, with space to
dance in, tables to relax at, and
Cape Verdean food.
Kapital
Avda 24 de Julho 68 T 213 955 963.
Mon & Sun 10.30pm–4am, Tues–Sat
10.30pm–6am. Long-established
venue, with three sleekly
designed floors full of bright
young things buying expensive
drinks and dancing to techno. It
can be hard work getting past
the style police on the door but
there’s a great rooftop terrace
once you’re in.
Kremlin
Escadinhas da Praia 5 T 216 087 768.
Tues–Thurs midnight–7am, Fri & Sat
midnight–9am. A tough door
policy, based on its reputation as
one of the city’s most
fashionable nightspots, has put
off many old-hand clubbers,
though it’s still packed with
flash, young, raving Lisboetas.
Best to come after 2am.
ESTRELA BASILICA AND TRAM #25 O Senhor Vinho

Rua do Meio à Lapa 18 T213 972
Varina da Madragoa 681. Mon–Sat 8.30pm–2.30am. In
Rua das Madres 34 T213 965 533. the fashionable Madragoa
Tues–Fri 12.45pm–3.30pm & district where current fado diva
7.45–11.30pm, Sat 7.45–11.30pm. Mariza grew up, this famous
Once the haunt of Nobel Prize fado club has a relaxed
for Literature winner José atmosphere. It features some of
Saramago, and it’s easy to see the best singers in Portugal,
why he liked it: a lovely, which makes the E20 minimum
traditional restaurant with charge (rising to around E40
grape-embellished azulejos on with a meal) pretty reasonable.
the walls and a menu featuring Reservations are advised.
Contents Places
�
Belém
� Alcântara and
the riverfront
Loomed over by the enormous Ponte 25 de Abril sus

pension bridge, Alcântara has a decidedly industrial
hue, with a tangle of railway lines, flyovers and cranes
from the docks dominating the skyline. Nevertheless,
the area is well known for its nightlife, mainly thanks to
its dockside warehouse conversions that shelter cafés,
restaurants and clubs.
Doca de Alcântara
The Doca de Alcântara remains
the city’s main docks with an
increasing number of luxury
1
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0
15
A
CA
Contents
U
R.
MÕ
C. DA TA
ES
JU
N
N
PA DA
RUA DAS INDUSTRIAS
DO
SL
U
QU
S IAD
EIR
Museu do C.C. e
Cultural de Macau
A
Lisbon Congress Centre
A VE N ID
A
AVE
AS
NI
PONTE 25 DE ABRIL
DA
Parque de Monsanto
250 m
18
DA
16 15
DA
R U A LVITO
DO
IN D
AVE
Doca de
A
O
R.1
R. R.
PO
IA
14 13
Santo Amaro
N
DE M
5
A IO
IA
A L C Â N TA R A
TE
FAR V. 4 R
NID
12 10
17
EATING & DRINKING
Blues Café
Docks Club
Caparica
A
A M
IO
A D
8 Havana
Doca de Santo 10 Luanda
R
TR JUN . L.
EIR UA EIN
TEIX RHOLST
6
Gare Marítima
. DE
C. E
R
CON
AL
ÓM
CÂ
. FO
ICA
AV
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RU
NTA
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EN
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de Alcântara
Alcântara Café 5 Espalha Brasas 15

12
4
9 Paradise Garage 2
NTA
INH
IDAA LV IT
RA
AS
O
DE
AV
Places
.D
A IN
IA
R UA LCÂNTA
Alcântara
ÀA
TA
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R
D E C E U TA
CRU A
2
AVENIDA
PR
O LA
G.R UA
R
Alcântara Mar
IO
AR
CO
cruise ships calling daily
(though the cruise terminal is
due to move to Santa
Apolónia). Since the mid-1990s,
RD
3
O
R . M. P I A
CR
AT
RUA
RUA
O
Cemitéria
dos Prazeres
ÃO A
C AP IT
D. S
15 18
RUA CINTURA DO PORTO DE LISBOA

Doca de Alcântara
RUA GEN. GOMES DE ARAÚJO

SO
FON
Tapada das
Necessidades
Palácio das
Necessidades
ACR
Pestana
15
Queens
EME
RUA
C.
N TO
Palace
Salsa Latina
Speakeasy
Tertúlia do Tejo
RU
DA
AVE
7
AD
S
N
POS
EC
R. P R
NID
8
CAMPO
DE OURIQUE
P. D . P
O BO R J A
SI
ES
SID
NID
AV E
DA
R . D OL
A 24
Don Fernando II
e Gloria
AI
DE JU
9
1
7
17
11
13
N DE
LHO
15
R. P. FRA NCI
RA Z ER E S
RUA SARA
ÓNIO
SNT
FA
Zen
E
SCO
I VA
R
SA
R. D
RUA D
O I VAL Museu de O L I V
E S . A RR
O
I AG A Arte Antiga R U A
Estação
Marítima
Timpanas
W
3
6
16
Zonadoca 14
Tram route
.D
NT
O
O
PA U
O
DA
BAN
PO
S
SS
ÃO
RAM
SAC APA
ÀL
D E IR
A
123
R. D À L
CA
ENT
O
E
E S APA
AN
TA N
A
TA N
11
O
RUA
RU
A
S . AN
Ba
Estrela
R. D
CONDE
E
DO
S.
BU
D OM I NGOS À L
PLACES Alcântara and the riverfront
124
the once run-down warehouses the Tejo provides plenty of free
here have been transformed into entertainment. Leaving Doca de
an alternative nightclub zone. Santo Amaro at its western side,
After dark, its boat-bars and you can pick up a pleasant
restaurant-clubs come into their riverside path that leads all the
Alcântara and the riverfront PLACES
own, attracting an older, more way to Belém (see p.128),

moneyed crowd than those of twenty minutes’ walk away.
the Bairro Alto. By day, the
dock’s main attraction is the Ponte 25 de Abril
Don Fernando II e Glória Resembling the Golden Gate
frigate (T 213 620 010;Tues–Sun bridge in San Francisco, the
10am–5pm; E3), built in India hugely impressive Ponte 25 de
in 1843 and now a ship museum Abril was opened in 1966 as a
showing what sea life was like in vital link between Lisbon and
the mid-nineteenth century. the southern banks of the Tejo.
Around 2.3km in length, the
Doca de Santo Amaro main bridge rises to 70m above
A better bet by day is to head the river, though its main pillars
west to the more intimate Doca are nearly 200m tall. It was
de Santo Amaro, nestling right originally named Ponte de
under the humming traffic and Salazar after the dictatorial
rattling trains crossing Ponte 25 prime minister who ruled
de Abril.This small, almost Portugal with an iron fist from
completely enclosed dock is 1932 to 1968, but took its
filled with bobbing sailing boats present name to mark the date
and lined with tastefully of the revolution that overthrew
converted warehouses. Its Salazar’s regime in 1974.You’ll
international cafés and pass over it if you take a bus to
restaurants are more pricey than Caparica or south of the Tejo
usual for Lisbon, but the (see p.172).
constant comings and goings of
FISHING BY THE PONTE 25 DE APRIL
Contents Places
125
Museu do Centro Científico dishes.This is a place to be seen
e Cultural de Macau before moving on to the
Rua da Junqueira 30 T213 617 570. neighbouring clubs, hence the
Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, Sun noon–6pm. high prices (and advised
E2.50. This attractively laid-out reservations).

museum is dedicated to
Portugal’s trading links with the Espalha Brasas
Orient and, specifically, its for Armazém 12, Doca de Santo Amaro
mer colony of Macao, which T213 962 059. Mon–Sat noon–4am.
was handed back to Chinese Tapas and superb if expensive
rule in 1999.There are model grilled meats can be enjoyed at
boats and audio displays detail outdoor riverside tables, or head
ing early sea voyages, as well as for the bright upstairs room,
various historic journals and which offers great views over
artefacts including a seven the river.
teenth-century portable wooden
altar, used by travelling clergy Tertúlia do Tejo
men. Upstairs, exhibitions of Pavilhão 4, Doca de Santo Amaro
Chinese art from the sixteenth T213 955 552. Daily 12.30–3pm &
to the nineteenth centuries 7.30pm–midnight. Upmarket
show off ornate collections of Portuguese restaurant, housed
porcelain, silverware and applied on three floors of a converted
art, most notably an impressive warehouse.There are evocative
array of opium pipes and ivory old photos of Portugal in the
boxes. upstairs room and more
intimate seating in the attic, plus
fine river views throughout.The
Cafés flavoured vodkas are a hit, too.
Zonadoca
Pavilhão 7a, Doca de Santo Amaro Zen
T213 972 010. Mon & Wed–Sun Armazém 15, Doca de Santo Amaro
12.30pm–3am. Worth a visit for its T213 970 172. Tues–Fri 12.30–3pm
ice cream alone, though you can & 7.30–11pm, Sat & Sun 7.30–11pm.
also enjoy coffee or alcoholic Spacious, minimalist space
drinks at this friendly, family- serving a good range of mid-
oriented café (with life-sized priced Japanese dishes, including
models of Laurel and Hardy for sushi, sashimi and some great
company). soups.
Restaurants Bars and clubs

Alcântara Café Blues Café
Rua Maria Luísa Holstein 15 T 213 Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa
637 176. Daily 8pm–3am. Stunning T213 957 085. Tues–Thurs
if pricey designer bar-restaurant 8pm–4am, Fri & Sat 8pm–5am.
successfully blending industrial Lisbon’s only blues club
steel pillars with stylish decor. occupies a converted dockside
The food on offer includes warehouse.There’s pricey Cajun
prawns in lemon sauce, goat’s food served in the restaurant
cheese salad and an array of fish (until 12.30am), live music on
Contents Places
126
modern take on Portuguese

food more than compensates
for its position slightly away
from the river.
Alcântara and the riverfront PLACES
Docks Club
Doca de Alcântara T213 950 856.
Mon–Sat 10pm–6am. A thriving
warehouse conversion funded
by nightclub mogul Pedro
Luz; most nights it’s a dance
temple for Lisbon’s moneyed
set, with sounds from
Madonna to trance.Tuesday
night is “Ladies’ Night” with
free drinks for women;
Thursday night features Latin
music.
Havana
Armazéns 5, Doca de Santo Amaro
T213 979 893. Daily 12.30pm–4am.
Cuban-themed bar-restaurant
with wicker chairs, Latin sounds
and salsa lessons on request,
usually undertaken in the bar
area.Also does moderately
priced salads, toasted
sandwiches and the like.
HARBOUR BAR IN DOCA DE ALCÂNTARA Luanda

Trav. Teixeira Júnior 6 T213 633 959.
Mondays and Thursdays, and Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sun 10.30pm–4am,
club nights with the latest dance Fri & Sat 10.30pm–6am; Oct–April
music on Fridays and Saturdays closed Mon–Wed. With a smart
from 2.30am. Don’t be put off chrome and wood interior, this
by the advertised minimum is one of the largest and most
consumption of E150, more of popular of Lisbon’s African
a ploy to put off the hoi polloi clubs. It’s big with the Bairro
than a legal requirement. Alto crowd, who like ending
the night here.
Doca de Santo
Doca de Santo Amaro T 213 963 535. Paradise Garage
Mon–Thurs 12.30pm–1am, Fri–Sun Rua João de Oliveira Miguens 48
12.30pm–4am. This palm-fringed T213 544 452. Thurs–Sat
club, bar and restaurant was one 11.30pm–4am. Large, ultra
of the earliest places in the fashionable club on a tiny side
docks to attract – and then keep road opposite Alcântara Terra
– a late-night clientele.The station, offering various sounds
cocktail bar on the esplanade is from disco to garage. It is also
the latest enticement, while the becoming a major venue for
excellent and reasonable visiting bands.
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127
Pestana Palace Hotel Salsa Latina

Rua Jau 54 T 213 615 600, Gare Marítima de Alcântara T 213 950
W www.pestana.com. Daily May–Sept 555. A riotous bar-restaurant
10am–10pm. Built in 1907 and set (8pm–midnight) and club
in UNESCO protected gardens, (8pm–6am), housed in a 1940s

one of Lisbon’s most beautiful maritime station.There’s salsa
hotels comes complete with its from Tuesday to Saturday (with
own poolside Chinese pavilion lessons on Tuesday and
and sushi bar open to the Thursday) and music from a live
public. band at the weekends.
Alternatively, just come and
Queens admire the views from the
Rua Cintura do Porto de Lisboa, riverside terrace.
Armázem H, Naves A–B T213 955
870. Tues–Sat 10pm–6am. Pedro Speakeasy
Luz launched this club as a Armazém 115, Cais das Oficinas T213
“high-tech gay disco”, but it has 957 308. Mon–Sat 10pm–4am.
since successfully attracted a Docklands jazz bar and
large following of beautiful restaurant presenting a mixture
people of all sexual persuasions. of big and up-and-coming
It’s a huge, pulsating place – names, usually Tuesday to
there’s an excellent sound Thursday after 11pm.
system – which can hold up to
2500 people.Tuesday night is Timpanas
“Ladies’ Night” involving a male Rua Gilberto Rola 24 T213 906 655.
strip show; there are visiting DJs Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 8.30pm–2am.
on other nights. One of Lisbon’s most authentic
fado clubs, with decent food
and a minimum charge of E10.
Contents Places
Belém PLACES
� �
Cascais
1 28
Belém
Belém (pronounced ber-layng) is one of the most popu

lar suburbs of Lisbon thanks to its maritime history and
attractive riverside location. It was from Belém that
Vasco da Gama set sail for India in 1497; he returned
with a cargo of pepper which was enough to pay for his
voyage sixty times over. The monastery subsequently
built here – the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos – stands as a
testament to his triumphant discovery of a sea route to
the Orient, which initiated the beginning of a
Portuguese golden age. Along with the monastery and
landmark Torre de Belém, the suburb boasts a group of
small museums, most of them set up by Salazar during
the wartime (1940) Expo, though the best of the lot, the
Museu do Design, opened in 1999. Just to the north of
Belém is Ajuda, famed for its half-built palace and
ancient botanical gardens. Higher still lies the extensive
parkland of Monsanto, Lisbon’s largest green space.
EATING & DRINKING

Antiga Confeitaria
de Belém
Café Quadrante
15
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Torre de Belém
Contents
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Museu da
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Praça do Império t 213 620 034,
w www.mosteirojeronimos.pt. Daily:
June–Sept 10am–6.30pm; Oct–May
10am–5pm; restricted access on Sat
mornings and during Mass. Free. A
UNESCO World Heritage site,
the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is
Portugal’s most successful
achievement of Manueline
architecture. Construction
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Presidência
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Praça
Afonso de
Albuquerque
Contents
Ã
IDA O
Estação
Fluvial
Jardim
Botânico
d’ Ajuda
R . D . J A R D I M B O T ÂNI C
DA
CALÇADA
AJU
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Museu dos Coches

RU A D
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Belém
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Library
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Trafaria
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Palácio
Nacional
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18
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Museu da
Electricidade
Places
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begun in 1502, after Dom
Manuel made a vow to the
Virgin that he would build a
monastery should Vasco da
Gama return successfully from
his trip to India.
The daring of the monastery’s
design is largely the
achievement of Diogo de
Boitaca, perhaps the originator
of the Manueline style, and João
R . A . G . F E RR E I R
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Museu do C.C. e
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15
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18
Arquivo Historico
Ultramarino
15
Hospital de
Egas Moniz
Z E IR
TR
Tram route
129
O
INH OS
OS
M OA V. D
200 m
Alcântara
PLACES Belém
Belém PLACES 130
CENTRO CULTURAL DE BELÉM
de Castilho, a Spaniard who wave-like, rhythmic motion to

took charge of construction the whole structure, a conceit
from around 1517. Castilho extended by the typically
designed the main entrance to Manueline motifs drawn from
the church, a complex hierarchy ropes, anchors and the sea.
of figures clustered around
Henry the Navigator (on a Museu de Arqueologia
pedestal above the arch). Praça do Império t213 620 000. Tues
Appropriately, just inside the 2–6pm, Wed–Sun 10am–6pm. e3,
entrance lie the stone tombs of free on Sun 10am–2pm. Housed in
Vasco da Gama (1468–1523) a Neo-Manueline extension to
and the great poet and recorder the monastery added in 1850,
of the discoveries, Luís de the archaeology museum has a
Camões (1527–70). small section on Egyptian
The breathtaking sense of antiquities, but concentrates on
space inside the church places it Portuguese archeological finds.
among the great triumphs of It’s a sparse collection reprieved
European Gothic, though by a few fine Roman mosaics
Manueline developments add unearthed in the Algarve,
fresh dimensions.There are though its temporary exhibits
deliberate tensions between the can be rewarding.
grand spatial design and the
areas of intensely detailed Museu da Marinha
ornamentation. It’s difficult to Praça do Império t213 620 019.
see the six central columns as w www.museumarinha.pt. Tues–Sun:
anything other than palm April–Sept 10am–6pm; Oct–March
trunks, growing both into and 10am–5pm. e3. In the west wing
from the branches of the of the monastery extension is an
delicate rib-vaulting. absorbing maritime museum,
Vaulted throughout and packed not only with models of
fantastically embellished, the ships, naval uniforms and
cloisters (e3, free on Sun artefacts from Portugal’s oriental
10am–2pm) form one of the trade and colonies, but also with
most original pieces of real vessels – among them
architecture in the country.The fishing boats and sumptuous
rounded corner canopies and state barges, early seaplanes and
delicate twisting divisions some ancient fire engines.
within each of the arches lend a
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131
Museu das Crianças now mostly restaurants with

Praça do Império t213 622 828, outdoor seating; as a rule, the
w www.museu-das-criancas.com. further east you head, the less
Tues–Sun: April–Sept 11am–6pm; touristy they become.
Oct–March 11am–5pm. e4.50,
PLACES Belém
children e4.25 (includes entry to Centro Cultural de Belém
Museu da Marinha). The innovative Praça do Império t213 612 400,
Museu das Crianças (Children’s w www.ccb.pt. The modern, pink
Museum) lies on the upper marble Centro Cultural de
floors of the marine museum – Belém was built to host Lisbon’s
a delightfully low-tech space 1992 presidency of the
designed to help children European Union. It’s now one
understand and confront their of the city’s main cultural
fears. Kids can have fun while centres, containing a design
learning to cope in the dark, museum and hosting regular
escape from enclosed spaces, photography and art
touch strange objects and deal exhibitions, as well as concerts
with other potentially scary and shows.
situations.
Museu do Design
Praça do Império Praça do Império t 213 612 400. Daily
The formal gardens and 11am–8pm (last entry at 7.15pm). e3.
walkways that make up Praça do Housed in the rather soulless
Império are laid out over rooms of the Centro Cultural’s
Belém’s former beach, and soak Exhibition Centre, the Museu
up with ease the hundreds of do Design (Design Museum) is
daily visitors to Belém. It’s the first in the city dedicated to
especially busy on Saturday contemporary household design
mornings, when there seems to and is already touted as being
be an endless procession of one of the most important in
flamboyant weddings at the Europe.The collection contains
monastery, whose photo-calls over six hundred design classics
invariably spill out into the embracing furniture, glass and
square.The attractive jewellery from 1937 to the
seventeenth-century buildings present day and is so big that
along Rua Vieira Portuense are exhibits are rotated, though the
MUSEU DA ELECTRICIDADE
Contents Places
132
most important items usually chairs from Charles and Ray
remain on display.These are Eames, and Marshmallow and
shown chronologically in three Coconut chairs by the American
sections entitled “Luxo” George Nelson. “Pop” features
(Luxury), “Pop” and “Cool”. fun designs from the 1960s and
Belém PLACES
“Luxo” contains one-off luxury 1970s, including bean-bags,

and, later, industrially produced kitsch moulded plastic furniture
designs from the 1930s to the and an amazing Joe Colombo
1950s, including classic fibreglass Mino Kitchen, designed in
1963. “Cool” contains work
from the 1980s and 1990s,
including the Memphis Group’s
Tawaraya bed, Phillipe Starck’s
chair and the works of
established Portuguese designers
such as Tomás Tavira and Alvara
Siza Vieria.
Padrão dos Descobrimentos

Avenida de Brasília t213 016 228.
Tues–Sun: June–Sept 9am–6.30pm;
Nov–May 9am–5pm. e2. Reached
via an underpass beneath the
Avenida da Índia and railway
line, the Padrão dos
Descobrimentos (Monument
to the Discoveries) is an
angular slab of concrete erected
in 1960 to commemorate the
five-hundredth anniversary of
the death of Henry the
Navigator. An impressive statue
of Henry appears on the prow
along with that of Luís de
Camões and other Portuguese
heroes.Within the monument is
a small exhibition space, with
interesting temporary exhibits
on the city’s history – the
entrance fee also includes a ride
in the lift to the top for some
fine views of the Tejo and the
Torre de Belém. Just in front of
the monument tourists pose on
the marble pavement decorated
with a map of the world
charting the routes taken by
Portuguese explorers.
Torre de Belém
t 213 620 034. Tues–Sun: June–Sept
10am–6.30pm; Oct–May 10am–5pm.
BELÉM FERRY TERMINAL SIGN e3. The Torre de Belém lies
Contents Places
133
500m west of the monastery; if pink Presidência da República.

you don’t fancy the walk, take
the toy train (roughly every Estádio do Restelo
30min May–Sept daily; e3) Avenida do Restelo t213 010 461,
from in front of the monastery. w www.cfbelenenses.pt. The
PLACES Belém
The tower was built over the attractively sited Estádio do
last five years of Dom Manuel’s Restelo is home to Belenenses
reign (1515–20) to defend the soccer club, Lisbon’s third team.
mouth of the Tejo – before an Belenenses has won just one
earthquake shifted its course in league title, back in 1946, but
1777, it stood near the middle the stadium offers such
of the great river. It is the one picturesque views over the river
completely Manueline building that the soccer action is almost
in Portugal (the rest having insignificant; nevertheless, top
been adaptations of earlier teams frequently visit.
structures or completed in later
years) and has become the

favoured symbol used to PADRÃO DOS DESCOBRIMENTOS
promote Lisbon by the

Portuguese Tourist Board.
Its Moorish influence is clear
in the delicately arched
windows and balconies.
Prominent also in the
decoration are two great
symbols of the age: Manuel’s
personal badge of an armillary
sphere (representing the globe);
and the cross of the military
Order of Christ, once the
Templars, who took a major
role in all Portuguese conquests.
There are good views from the
top, though the interior is
unremarkable to look at.
However, it is easy to imagine
what it was like in the
nineteenth century when it was
used as a prison, notoriously by
Dom Miguel (1828–34), who
kept political enemies in the
waterlogged dungeons.
Jardim do Ultramar
Entrance on Calçada do Galvão. Daily
10am–5pm. Free. The leafy Jardim
do Ultramar is a green oasis
with hothouses, ponds and
towering palms. In the
southeastern corner of the
gardens lies the Portuguese
President’s official residence, the
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134
Museu dos Coches VI and the royal family fled to
Praça Afonso de Albuquerque t 213 Brazil to escape Napoleon’s
610 850. Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm. invading army in 1807.The
e3. Housed in the attractive original plans were therefore
former royal riding school, the never fulfilled, though the
Belém PLACES
Museu dos Coches (coach completed section was used as a

museum) was opened in 1905 royal residence after João
on the initiative of the queen, returned from exile in 1821.
Dona Amélia, and contains one The surviving decor was
of the largest collections of commissioned by the crashingly
carriages and saddlery in the tasteless nineteenth-century
world. However, the royals, Dona Maria II (João’s
interminable line of royal granddaughter) and Dom
coaches – Baroque, heavily Ferdinand (1834–18) and is all
gilded and sometimes over-the-top aristocratic clutter.
beautifully painted – hardly The highly ornate banqueting
explains the museum’s claim to hall, however, is impressive, as is
be one of the most visited the lift, decked out with
tourist attractions in Lisbon. mahogany and mirrors.The
palace is also occasionally used
Museu da Electricidade for concerts.
Avenida de Brasília T 213 425 401.
Tues–Fri & Sun 10am–12.30pm & Jardim Botânico d’Ajuda
2–5.30pm, Sat 10am–12.30pm & Entrance on Rua do Jardim. Mon, Tues
2–8pm. e2. The extraordinary & Thurs–Sun 9am–dusk. e1.50.
redbrick Museu da Opposite the palace lies one of
Electricidade (electricity/ the city’s oldest botanical
industrial museum) is housed in gardens. Laid out in 1768 by an
an early twentieth-century Italian botanist, it was
electricity generating station substantially restored in the
with cathedral-like windows. 1990s.The garden is divided
The highlights include a series into eight parts representing
of enormous generators, steam plant species from around the
turbines and winches – world, all arranged around a
resembling a set from the system of terraces, statues and
science-fiction film Brazil. It is a fountains – a fine example of
highly atmospheric place and formal Portuguese gardening –
hosts occasional art and and boasting some great views
technology exhibitions. From in over Belém.
front of the museum, it is
possible to walk the 1.5km Parque Florestal
along the lawned riverside all de Monsanto
the way to the Doca de Santo Bus #43. The extensive, wooded
Amaro one way, or the 1km to hillside Parque Florestal de
central Belém the other way. Monsanto – home to the city’s
main campsite – is known as
Palácio da Ajuda Lisbon’s lungs, but its main
Largo da Ajuda T213 637 095. Mon,
attraction was for prostitutes and
Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–5pm. e3,
their clients until the Mayor of
free on Sun 10am–2pm.
Construction of the hillside Lisbon bought a house nearby
Palácio da Ajuda began in 1802, in 2003. Suddenly the park has
but was incomplete when João been given a new lease of life:
Contents Places
135
hookers have been replaced by and outside tables catering for

horse-and-trap rides to its tourists tucking in to tuna
splendid viewpoints, and at steaks, trout and the like at
weekends in summer the whole good-value prices.
area is completely traffic free.
PLACES Belém
Summer concerts are laid on Floresta Belém
most weekends, usually free of Praça Afonso de Albuquerque 1.
charge. Mon–Fri & Sun 9am–4pm &
6.30pm–midnight. On the corner
with Rua Vieira Portuense, this
Cafés is one of the best-value places
on this stretch, attracting a
Antiga Confeitaria de Belém largely Portuguese clientele,
Rua de Belém 90 T213 637 423. especially for lunch at the
Daily 8am–midnight. No visit to weekend. Great salads, grills and
Belém is complete without a fresh fish, served inside or on a
coffee and hot pastel de nata sunny outdoor terrace.
(custard-cream tart) liberally
sprinkled with canela
(cinnamon) in this cavernous
tiled pastry shop and café, which
has been serving them up since
1837.The place positively
heaves especially at weekends,
but there’s usually space to sit
down in its warren of rooms.
Café Quadrante
Centro Cultural de Belém T 213 612
400. Daily 10am–10pm. Part of the
Belém Cultural Centre, offering
good-value self-service food
from two counters.The best
place to enjoy its coffee and
snacks is on the outdoor terrace
by the roof gardens, overlooking
the bridge, river and Monument
to the Discoveries. It’s so
popular with students that they RESTAURANTS AND HOUSE FRONTS
are forbidden from studying IN RUA VIEIRA PORTUENSE
here at mealtimes.
São Jerónimo
Rua dos Jerónimos 12 t213 648 797.
Restaurants Mon–Fri & Sun 12.30–3pm &
7.30–10pm. Rustic-style dining
Cápsula by the side of the monastery.
Rua Vieira Portuense 74 T 213 648 The fish is excellent, and the
768. Mon noon–3pm, Wed–Sun speciality is migas, a garlicky
noon–3pm & 7–11pm. One of the bread sauce from the Alentejo
many places in this pretty row region served with moderately
of buildings facing the greenery priced meat or fish.This is tour-
of Praça do Império.This has a bus territory, so advance
tiled interior, upstairs seating reservations are advised.
Contents Places
Avenida da Liberdade and around PLACES
� Sul Ponte and Sintra

1 36
RUA
DE
�
and around
Despite the traffic, the grand, palm-lined Avenida da
Liberdade is still much as Fernando Pessoa described
it: “the finest artery in Lisbon . . . full of trees from
beginning to end . . . small gardens, ponds, fountains,
cascades and statues”. The 1.3-kilometre-long avenue,
together with its exclusive side streets, was once home
to many of Lisbon’s grandest figures, including António
Medeiros, an art collector whose works are now dis
played in a fine town-house museum. On the western
side of the avenue it’s a short walk to two contrasting
destinations: Lisbon’s brashest modern building, the
Amoreiras shopping centre; and the historic Praça das
Amoreiras, the finishing point of the massive Aqueduto
das Águas Livres, whose arches tower over the beguil
ing artworks contained within the Fundação Arpad
Siznes-Viera da Silva.
Avenida da Liberdade was laid
out as a public walkway in
1882 and remains the city’s
main central avenue, with
appealing outdoor cafés under
Aqueduto das Águas Livres
Amoreiras
DO D
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Contents
RU
Shopping Centre
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the shade of trees that help
cushion the roar of the passing
traffic. Some of the avenue’s
original nineteenth-century
mansions remain, though most
have been replaced by modern
ÊS
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PRAÇA DOS
2 Pastelaria Anunciada
RESTAURADORES
Casa da Comida OM PED1RO V Ribadouro i Palácio
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137
buildings.The upper end of the Other highlights include

avenue houses many of the city’s glorious eighteenth-century
designer shops and airline azulejos in the Sala de Lago, a
offices, and ends in a swirl of room complete with full-sized
traffic at the landmark water fountains; and a rare
seventeenth-century night
PLACES Avenida da Liberdade and around

roundabout of Praça Marquês
de Pombal, also known as clock, made for Queen
Rotunda. A tunnel from east to Catherine of Bragança and
west should help ease some of mentioned by Samuel Pepys in
the roundabout’s traffic, though his diary.
the works will cause extra
congestion through 2004. Fundação Arpad
On the east side of the Siznes-Viera da Silva
avenida, the rundown Parque Praça das Amoreiras t 213 880 044.
Mayer – a collection of theatres Mon & Wed–Sat noon–8pm, Sun
– is due to be given a makeover 10am–6pm. e2.50. Set in a former
into a new cultural zone, with eighteenth-century silk factory,
the help of Frank Gehry, the Fundação Arpad Siznes
architect of the Guggenheim in
Bilbao. OUTDOOR CAFÉ, AVENIDA DA LIBERADE
Elevador do Lavra
Mon–Sat 7am–10.45pm, Sun
9am–10.45pm. e1. Starting at the
little Largo da Anunciada, the
Elevador do Lavra funicular
opened in 1882 and is Lisbon’s
least tourist-frequented elevador.
Take a ride to the top of the
precipitous Calçada do Lavra,
where a brief detour to the left,
on Travessa do Torel, takes you
to Jardim do Torel, a tiny park
offering exhilarating views over
Lisbon.
Fundação Medeiros
e Almeida
Rua Rosa Araújo 41 t213 547 892.
Mon–Sat 1–5.30pm. e5. The
Fundação Medeiros e Almeida
was the home of philanthropist
and art collector António
Medeiros until his death in
1986, and today serves as a
showcase for his priceless series
of artefacts, including 2000-year
old Chinese porcelain, an
important collection of
sixteenth- to nineteenth-
century watches, and English
and Portuguese silverware.
Contents Places
138
works, with Viera da Silva’s

more abstract, subdued paintings
contrasting with the more
flamboyant Siznes, some of
whose paintings show the clear
influence of Miró.
Praça das Amoreiras

One of Lisbon’s most historic
squares, the tranquil Praça das
Amoreiras – complete with a
handy kiosk café (closed Sat)
and kids’ play area – is
dominated on its western side
by the final section of the
(Free Waters Aqueduct), with a
chapel wedged into its arches.
The aqueduct was opened in
1748, bringing reliable drinking
water to the city for the first
time, and the entire structure
stretches some 60km, mostly
underground – although
sections of it can be seen on
either side of the tracks on the
train line to Sintra.To walk on
FUNDACÃO ARPAD SIZNES the aqueduct itself, you need to
– VIERA DA SILVA
head to Campolide, around 1km
to the northwest (see below).
Viera da Silva is a gallery On the south side of Praça das
dedicated to the works of two Amoreiras, the Mãe d’Água
painters and the artists who have cistern (t 218 135 522; Mon–Sat
been influenced by them. Arpad 10am–6pm; e1.80) marks the
Siznes (1897–1985) was a end of the line for the aqueduct
Hungarian-born artist and before it was stored and
friend of Henri Matisse and distributed round the city. Built
Pierre Bonnard, amongst others. between 1746 and 1834, the
In 1928, while working as a interior holds a reservoir
caricaturist in Paris, he met the contained in a huge, cathedral-
Portuguese artist Maria Helena like stone building.The chunky,
Viera da Silva (1908–92), whose castellated structure nowadays
work was influenced by the hosts occasional exhibitions,
surrealism of Joan Miró and many of them on its terrace.
Max Ernst, both of whom she
knew. Siznes and Viera da Silva Aqueduto das Águas Livres
married in 1930 and, in 1936, Entrance on Calçada da Quintinha 6
both exhibited in Lisbon, where t218 100 215. March–Nov daily
they briefly lived, before they 10am–6pm. e2.50. Bus #58. Entered
eventually settled in France and off a quiet residential street
took French nationality.The through a small park in
foundation shows the Campolide, 1km north of Praça
development of both the artists’ das Amoreiras, you can walk
Contents Places
139
right over the central section of and a hotel. Most of the shops
Lisbon’s towering aqueduct (see here stay open until midnight,
above), a dizzy hike not seven days a week; Sunday sees
recommended to vertigo the heaviest human traffic, with
sufferers. Reassuringly, the entire families descending for an
PLACES Avenida da Liberdade and around

structure stood firm during the afternoon out.
1755 earthquake, though it later
gained a more notorious Casa do Turista
reputation thanks to one Diogo Avda da Liberdade 159 T213 151
Alves, a nineteenth-century serial 558. Crammed with regional
killer who threw his victims off arts, crafts, ceramics and T-shirts,
the top – a seventy-metre drop. this tourist gift shop is not too
pricey and there’s some good
stuff amongst the tack, including
Shops some fine toy trams.
Amoreiras Loja
Entrance on Avenida Engenheiro Duarte Rua de São José 21. Unnamed
Pacheco t 213 810 200. Daily workshop producing delightful
10am–midnight. Bus #11 or #58. hand-painted tiles, including
Amoreiras, Lisbon’s eye- contemporary designs and
catching, post-modern shopping traditional looks. Small tiles start
centre, is visible on the city at about e2.50 each.
skyline from almost any
approach.The complex, built in Tivoli Forum
1985 and designed by Tomás Avda da Liberdade. Flash marble-
Taveira, is Portugal’s most fronted shopping emporium
entertaining modern building: a sheltering the likes of DKNY,
wild fantasy of pink and blue, French Connection and Adolfo
sheltering ten cinemas, sixty Dominguez. Also has a
cafés and restaurants, 250 shops supermarket, cafés and a juice
bar.
AMOREIRAS SHOPPING CENTRE
Contents Places
140
Cafés Tibetanos
Rua do Salitre 117 t213 142 038.
Bela Ipanema Mon–Fri noon–2pm & 7.30–9.30pm.
Avda da Liberdade 169 t213 572 Run by a Buddhist Centre, this
316. Mon–Sat 6am–2am. Bustling stripped-pine restaurant has
café by the São Jorge cinema, superb and unusual moderately

where a steady stream of locals priced veggie food, including
pops in for snacks, beers and vegetarian paella. It gets full at
coffees at the bar or in its small lunchtimes in particular, so get
dining area; outdoor tables face there early and grab a table or
the avenue. call ahead.
Pastelaria Anunciada
Largo da Anunciada. Mon–Wed, Fri & Clubs
Sat 8am–10pm. Beautifully tiled
pastelaria at the foot of the Hot Clube de Portugal
Elevador do Lavra, its windows Praça da Alegria 39 t213 621 740.
stuffed full of sweets and bottles Tues–Sat 10pm–2am. The city’s
of port. best jazz venue, in a tiny
basement club hosting local and
visiting artists. It’s appropriately
Restaurants named, as it can get very steamy
in summer, but there’s a tiny
Casa da Comida courtyard to escape to if things
Trav. das Amoreiras 1 t213 885 376. get too hot.
Mon & Sat 8pm–midnight, Tues–Fri
1–3pm & 8pm–midnight. One of the
city’s top restaurants, housed in an
old mansion and sporting an
outdoor patio.The menu is
particularly strong on fish –
tamboril com molho de limão e alho
frances (monkfish with leeks and
lemon sauce) and crepes de camarão
(shrimp crepes) are highlights –
or there are meat choices like
pato com azeitonas and perdiz (duck
with olives and partridge). Meals
cost a good e30 and upwards.
Ribadouro
Avda da Liberdade 155 t213 549
411. Daily noon–1am. The avenida’s
best cervejaria, serving a decent
range of moderately priced
grilled meats and more pricey
shellfish (but no fish). If you
don’t fancy a full meal, take a
seat at the bar and order a beer
with a plate of prawns. Best to
book for the restaurant,
especially at weekends. PASTELARIA ANUNCIADA
Contents Places
� �
Buses to Caparica
Amoreiras
Parque Eduardo VII
and the Gulbenkian
Rising on a hill to the north of the centre, Parque

Eduardo VII is the city’s principal park, best known for
its views and estufas, or hothouses. Northwest of here,
everyone should make the effort to visit the Fundação
Calouste Gulbenkian, Portugal’s premier cultural centre,
which sits in its own extensive grounds. This combines
one of Europe’s richest art collections, on display in the
Museu Gulbenkian, with Portuguese contemporary art
shown in the Centro de Arte Moderna. Art-lovers have a
Praça de
Espanha
P
AV
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DA
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.
Contents
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RUA
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DU BOC AGE
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EATING & DRINKING

Botequim do Rei
Café Versailles
A Linha d’Água
Solar do Morais
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141
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PLACES Parque Eduardo VII and the Gulbenkian
142
futher attraction to the east in the Saldanha district,
where you can view the paintings and objets in the
Casa Museu Dr Anastácio Gonçalves.
to the earthquake mark a

Parque Eduardo VII and the Gulbenkian PLACES
viewing platform with

commanding views over
Lisbon. In summer, the
platform is usually capped by a
temporary ferris wheel.
Another highlight if you have
children is a superb Parque
Infantil (open daily; free), a play
area built round a mock
galleon.
Two huge, rambling estufas
(daily: April–Sept 9am–5.30pm;
Oct–March 9am–4.30pm;
e1.50) lie close by, both filled
with tropical plants, pools and
endless varieties of palms and
cacti. Of the two, the Estufa
Quente, the hothouse, has the
more exotic plants; the Estufa
Fria, the coldhouse, hosts
concerts and exhibitions.
Finally, the northern reaches
of the park, named after fado
singer Amália Rodrigues,
contain an appealing grassy
hillock complete with its own
olive grove and another shallow
lake, which kids splash about in
during the heat of the day.
Fundação Calouste
Gulbenkian
t 217 823 000, w www.gulbenkian.pt.
The Fundação Calouste
ROTUNDA ROUNDABOUT Gulbenkian was set up by the
Armenian oil magnate Calouste
Parque Eduardo VII Gulbenkian (1869–1955),
The steep, formally laid-out whose legendary art-market
Parque Eduardo VII was named coups included the acquisition
after Britain’s Edward VII, who of works from the Hermitage
visited the city in 1903. Its in St Petersburg following the
main building is the ornately Russian Revolution.Today the
tiled Pavilhão dos Desportos Gulbenkian Foundation has a
(sports pavilion), which doubles multi-million dollar budget
as a venue for occasional sufficient to run an orchestra,
concerts and cultural events. three concert halls and an
North of here, two concrete open-air amphitheatre in this
poles and a modern memorial complex alone. It also finances
Contents Places
143
work in all spheres of
Portuguese cultural life.

Entrance on Avenida de Berna t217

823 000, w www.gulbenkian.pt. Tues
2–6pm, Wed–Sun 10am–6pm. e3,
free on Sun, combined ticket with
Centro de Arte Moderna e5. The
takes in virtually every phase of
Eastern and Western Art.The
small Egyptian room covers art
from the Old Kingdom (2700
BC) up to the Roman period.
Fine Roman statues, silver and
glass, and intricate gold
jewellery from ancient Greece
follow.The Islamic arts are
magnificently represented by a
variety of ornamental texts,
opulently woven carpets,
glassware and Turkish tiles.There
is also porcelain from China,
and beautiful Japanese prints
and lacquer-work.
European art includes work
from all the major schools,
beginning with a group of
French medieval ivory diptychs
(in particular, the six scenes LAKE IN PARQUE EDUARDO VII
depicting the Life of the Virgin)

and a thirteenth-century Lowndes-Stone – and Francesco
manuscript of Saint John’s Guardi.The big names of
prophetic Apocalypse with the nineteenth- to twentieth-
Commentary of Beregaudus, century France – Edouard
produced in Kent and touched Manet, Claude Monet, Edgar
up in Italy. From fifteenth- Degas and Auguste Renoir – are
century Flanders, there’s a pair all represented. Elsewhere you’ll
of panels by Rogier van der find ceramics from Spain and
Weyden.The seventeenth- Italy, furniture from the reigns
century collection yields Peter of Louis XV and Louis XVI,
Paul Rubens’ portrait of his and assorted Italian tapestries
second wife, Helena Fourment, and textiles.The last room
and Rembrandt’s Figure of an features a stunning Art Nouveau
Old Man – plus works by collection of 169 pieces of
Anthony van Dyck and Jacob fantasy jewellery by René
van Ruisdael. Featured Lalique; the highlight is the
eighteenth-century works fantastical Peitoral-libélula
include those by Jean Honoré (dragonfly breastpiece) brooch,
Fragonard,Thomas half-woman, half-dragonfly,
Gainsborough – in particular decorated with enamel work,
the stunning Portrait of Mrs gold, diamonds and moonstones.
Contents Places
144
Pedro Cabrito Reis and Rui
Chafes are most highly rated.
Casa Museu
Dr Anastácio Gonçalves
Parque Eduardo VII and the Gulbenkian PLACES
Avda 5 de Outobro 8 T213 540 823.

e2. The appealing Casa Malhoa,
with its entrance on Rua
Pinheiro Chagas, is now the
Casa Museu Dr Anastácio
Gonçalves.The Neo-Romantic
building with Art Nouveau
touches – including a beautiful
stained-glass window – was
FUNDAÇAO GULBENKIAN GARDENS originally built for the painter
José Malhoa in 1904, but now
Centro de Arte Moderna holds the private collection of
Main entrance on Rua Dr Nicolau de ophthalmologist, Dr Anastácio
Bettencourt t217 823 000, Gonçalves, who bought the
w www.gulbenkian.pt. Tues 2–6pm, house in the 1930s. Highlights
Wed–Sun 10am–6pm. e3, free on include paintings by Portuguese
Sun, combined ticket with Museu landscape artist João Vaz and by
Calouste Gulbenkian e5.To reach Malhoa himself, who specialized
the Centro de Arte Moderna in historical paintings – his
from the Museu Calouste Dream of Infante Henriques is a
Gulbenkian you can walk typical example. On the top
through the gardens, which are floor you’ll find Chinese
enlivened by some specially porcelain from the sixteenth-
commissioned sculptures century Ming dynasty, along
(including a Henry Moore). with furniture from England,
The modern art centre features France, Holland and Spain
most of the big names on the
twentieth-century Portuguese
scene, including Almada
Negreiros (1873–1970), the
founder of modernismo (his self-
portrait is set in the café A
Brasileira), Amadeu de Sousa
Cardoso and Guilherme Santa-
Rita (both of Futurist
inclinations), and Paula Rego
(one of Portugal’s leading
contemporary artists, now
resident in England).There are
works by American abstract-
expressionist Arshile Gorky, and
British artists also feature; most
striking are the prostrate figure of
a man by Anthony Gormley and
Bill Woodrow’s wooden “War
head” sculpture. Of the latest
batch of rising Portuguese stars, CASA MUSEU DR ANSTÁCIO GONCALVES
Contents Places
145

A LINHA D’ÁGUA CAFÉ
dating from the seventeenth Traditional café full of busy

century.The downstairs rooms waiters circling the starched
also host temporary exhibits, tablecloths. It’s liveliest at around
from historical costume to 4pm, when Lisbon’s elderly
contemporary art. dames gather for a chat beneath
the chandeliers.
Shops A Linha d’Água
Parque Eduardo VII. Daily 9am–6pm.
El Corte Inglês Glass-fronted café at the
Avda António Augusto de Aguiar t 213 northern end of the park, facing
711 700, w www.elcorteingles.pt. a small lake. It’s not a bad spot
Giant Spanish department store to down a coffee or beer, and
spreading over nine floors, two decent buffet lunches are served
of which are underground.The too.
basement specializes in gourmet
food, with various delis, bakers
and a supermarket, while upper Restaurants
floors offer a range of stylish
goods, including clothes, sports Centro de Arte Moderna
goods, books, CDs and toys.The Rua Dr Bettencourt, Fundação Calouste
top floor packs in cafés and Gulbenkian. Tues–Sun 10am–5.45pm.
restaurants with an outdoor Join the lunchtime queues at
terrace.The shop also boasts the museum restaurant for
fourteen cinema screens – bargain hot and cold dishes.
infomation on t707 232 221. There’s an excellent choice of
salads for vegetarians, which you
can eat overlooking the gardens.
Cafés Get there early though before
the smokers fume the place out.
Botequim do Rei
Esplanade da Parque Eduardo VII. Solar do Morais
Tues–Sun 10am–8pm. The fish and Rua Augusto dos Santos 3. Mon–Fri &
meat dishes on offer here are Sun 9.30am–10.30pm. Very much a
fairly average, but the setting, locals’ joint, despite its position
right in the park by a small lake, between the tourist draws of
is particularly tranquil, making Parque Eduardo VII and the
this a good place to head for Gulbenkian.The cool, arched
lunch.Take care here, though, interior has cabinets of fresh
after dark. food, bottles lining the walls and
a large ham on the bar. Good-
Café Versailles value trout and salmon dishes
Avda da República 15a t213 546 are always worth ordering, and
340. Daily 7.30am–10pm. there’s a small outdoor terrace.
Contents Places
Northern Lisbon PLACES
� Sul Ponte and Sintra

1 46
RUA
R.
DE
I
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Northern Lisbon
Few visitors explore the bustling modern suburbs north

of the Gulbenkian. The one must-see sight is the
Palácio dos Marquêses de Fronteira, famed for its col
lection of azulejos. To the east, the otherwise dull area
of Campo Grande features a small city fun fair, the Feira
Popular, near the city’s main bullring at Campo
Pequeno. Two modern soccer stadiums – home to
European giants Sporting and Benfica – add to the
sporting attractions, both purpose-built for the Euro
2004 football championships. The latter has the bonus
of Iberia’s largest shopping complex and funfair on its
doorstep.
Praça de Touros
Campo Pequeno t 217 932 093.
Built in 1892, the Praça de
Touros do Campo Pequeno is
an impressive Moorish-style
bullring seating nine thousand
spectators. The Portuguese
tourada (bullfight) is neither as
commonplace nor as famous
as its Spanish counterpart, but
as a spectacle it’s marginally
preferable, as here the bull isn’t
killed in the ring, but instead
Amoreiras
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is wrestled to the ground in a

genuinely elegant, colourful
and skilled display. After the
fight, however, the bull is
usually injured and it is always
slaughtered later in any case.
Tickets cost between e15 and
e60, depending on where you
sit, and performances start at
10pm on Thursday evenings
from Easter to September.
ÊS
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RESTAURADORES
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147
PLACES Northern Lisbon

JARDIM ZOOLÓGICO
Culturgest also inexpensive and reliably

Avenida João XXI 63 t 217 905 155. good.
The modern monolith
Culturgest arts complex runs Estádio José Alvalade
regular art exhibitions and film Rua Francisco Stromp t217 516
seasons and hosts performances 010/000, w www.sporting.pt. Games
of classical music. take place late August–May every other
weekend (usually Sun afternoon) and
Feira Popular occasionally midweek. Tickets
w www.feirapopular.com. March–Oct (e22–32) are available from booths at
Mon–Fri 7pm–midnight, Sat & Sun the ground or online. This state-of
3pm–1am; Dec Tues–Fri 2.30–10pm, the-art stadium was
Sat & Sun 11am–10pm; closed Nov, purpose-built as one of Lisbon’s
Jan & Feb. e2, rides extra. Situated two venues for the 2004
at the southern end of Campo European Championships, with
Grande – a pleasant grassy strip a capacity of 54,000. It is home
sporting a lake and otherwise to Sporting Club de Portugal –
filled with trees, cafés and tennis usually known as Sporting
courts – the Feira Popular Lisbon, one of Portugal’s big
neatly combines old-fashioned three soccer clubs. Sporting won
carousels with modern the championship in 2000, and
rollercoasters and white-knuckle again in 2002 (when they also
rides. It’s popular with the won the Portuguese cup),
Portuguese youth and makes a establishing themselves as
fun afternoon out for the kids. Lisbon’s most successful team of
The cafés and restaurants are the new millennium.
Contents Places
148
Jardim Zoológico Fronteira, João de Mascarenhas,
Estrada de Benfica T217 232 910,
and still inhabited by
w www.zoolisboa.pt. Daily: April–Sept
descendants of the same family,
10am–8pm; Oct–March 10am–6pm.
the palace has been partly open
e11, children under 12 e8.30.
to the public since 1989.The
formal gardens are particularly
Northern Lisbon PLACES
Lisbon’s zoo, the Jardim

Zoológico, was opened in 1884 fine, complete with ornate
and though it has been given a topiary, statues and fountains,
facelift in recent years, it but it’s the interior that
remains one of the least impresses most, notably the
inspiring of European zoos, stunning azulejos dating back to
exhibiting unhappy captives the seventeenth century. Some
encouraged to perform of the rooms are completely
demeaning tricks. On the other lined with them, including the
hand, it’s really as much a Sala das Batalhas (Battle Room)
rambling garden as anything else whose tiles depict vivid scenes
and its peculiarly Portuguese from the Restoration Wars with
eruptions of kitsch (an Spain. Guided tours of the
extraordinary dogs’ cemetery, for interior last about an hour, after
instance) make for an enjoyable which you’re free to wander in
afternoon’s ramble. A small cable the gardens.
car (daily from 11am until
30min before closing; included Estádio da Luz
in the price) transports you Avenida General Norton de Matos
around the grounds, and there T217 210 522 or 214 153 815,
are restaurants, a well-stocked w www.slbenfica.pt. Games take place
reptile house (10am–noon & late August–May every other weekend
1–6pm) and a boating lake as (usually Sun afternoon) and
further diversions. Just by its occasionally midweek. Tickets
main gates lies the Animax (e22–32) are available from booths at
amusement park, where rides the ground or online. The Estádio
and games relieve parents of da Luz is one of Europe’s most
further euros. famous stadiums – the English
team Sunderland even stole its
Palácio dos Marquêses name (“Stadium of Light”),
de Fronteira which actually derives from the
Largo de São Domingos de Benfica 1 name of the suburb Luz rather
t217 782 023. Tours Mon–Sat: than its illuminations.The
June–Sept at 10.30am, 11am, stadium, with a capacity of
11.30am & noon; Oct–May at 11am & seventy thousand, was rebuilt as
noon. e5 weekdays, e7.50 weekends. the main venue for the Euro
Gardens only e2 weekdays, e2.50 2004 football championships
weekends. Reservations advised. Bus and is home to Benfica
#46 passes nearby, or it’s a 20min (officially called Sport Lisboa e
walk from the zoo. You don’t need Benfica), Lisbon’s best-known
to be a dyed-in-the-wool palace football team. Along with Porto,
enthusiast to enjoy a visit to the Benfica has dominated the
Palácio dos Marquêses de Portuguese championship over
Fronteira, a seventeenth-century the years: it was European
former hunting lodge on the champion in 1961–62, and
northeastern fringes of the runner up in 1968, 1988 and
Parque de Monsanto. Built in 1990. However, recent years
1670 for the first Marquês de have been difficult, with the
Contents Places
149
club rocked by financial overhead. An additional outdoor

irregularities, and it has area features mini-bunjee jumps,
struggled to keep up with a go-cart track, toy car and boat
northern rivals Porto. rides.
PLACES Northern Lisbon

Shops Cafés
Centro Colombo Pastelaria Dourada
Avenida Colégio Militar-Luz t217 113 Rua Cipriano Dourado. Daily
600. Cinema info on t217 113 200. 6.30am–10pm. Bustling café-bar
Iberia’s largest shopping centre, right by Sporting Lisbon’s
Centro Colombo, is almost a ground. Pay in advance for
town in its own right, with over bargain beers, coffee, pizzas or
400 shops, 65 restaurants and 11 snacks.
cinema screens. Major stores
include FNAC, C&A, Zara,
Habitat and Toys “R” Us, while Restaurants
the top floor has the usual fast-
food outlets along with a Rodizio Grill
sit-down dining area in the Campo Pequeno 79 t217 939 760.
jungle-draped “Cidade Perdida” Daily noon–4pm & 7.30pm–midnight.
(Lost City).There is also a “Fun Right opposite the bullring, this
Centre” (daily noon–midnight) appropriately specializes in
which claims to be Europe’s Brazilian rodizio – various types
largest covered amusement park, of barbecued meats, with a salad
complete with rides, bar as a token healthy option. It’s
roundabouts, bumper cars, ten good value if you have a big
pin bowling and even a appetite as, for e20, you can top
roller-coaster which whizzes your plate up as often as you like.
PÁLACIO DE FRONTEIRA
Contents Places
Parque das Nações PLACES
� Airport
150
Parque das Nações
The Parque das Nações or “Park of Nations” is the

name given to the former site of Expo 98. Its flat, traffic-
free walkways lined with fountains and futuristic build
ings are a complete contrast to the narrow, precipitous
streets of old Lisbon, making it a very popular destina
tion, especially during summer weekends. The main
highlight is the Oceanário de Lisboa, Europe’s second-
largest oceanarium. Other attractions include water
AV. DE BOA ESPERANÇAS
RUA RECÍPROCA
Estação
do Oriente
Oriente
Contents
M
AV. DE BER
LIM
AVENIDA DOM JOÃO II
AVENIDA DOM JOÃO II
AV. DE MEDITER R ÂNEO

Music
Gardens
Bowling
�
Youth Hostel
North
Gate
AV. DO INDICO
Centro Vasco
da Gama
AV. DO PAC
AV. DE ULYSSES
Lisbon
ÍFIC O
CAMINHO DA ÁGUA
CAMINHO DA ÁGUA
i
Sony Plaza
RUA DA PIMENTA
Feira
Internacional
de Lisboa
Council of
Ministers
Ciência
Viva
Places
4
Pavilhão
Atlântico
Pavilhão
2
Amphitheatre
de Portugal
Jardins da Água
Olivais
Dock
Oceanário
3
Teatro
Camões
Garcia de Orta Gardens
PA S S E I O D A S TA G I D E S
1
Parque do Tejo
Vasco da Gama Tower
Teleférico
River Gate
5
EATING & DRINKING
Os Alentejanos
Bugix
Havana
República
da Cerveja
Restaurante
Panorâmico
PAS
SE
IO
Rio Te jo
DA
S
TA
GI
DES
4
5
2
Cacilhas
151
gardens, a cable car and viewing tower, and two of
Lisbon’s largest concert venues. It is also impossible to
miss the astonishing seventeen-kilometre-long Vasco
da Gama bridge over the Tejo, which dominates the
river at this point. The Posto de Informação (information
PLACES Parque das Nações

desk; daily 9.30am–8pm; w www.parquedasnacoes.pt)
has details of the day’s events. If you want to visit
everything, it is worth buying a Cartão do Parque (e14,
or e7 for children under 12) from the desk. This allows
free access to the main sights and discounts at other
attractions. It’s easy to walk round the park, or there’s a
toy train, which trundles anti-clockwise around the main
sights (every 20min, daily 10am–7pm; e2.50).
Estação do Oriente
Oriente metro exits in the VIEW OVER OLIVAIS DOCK
bowels of the Estação do
Oriente, a cavernous glass and
concrete station designed by
Spanish architect Santiago
Calatrava. On level 2 on
Sundays (10am–7pm) you’ll
find a weekly changing market;
there are stamps, coins and
collectables for sale on the first
Sunday of each month,
handicrafts on the second,
antiques on the third and
decorative arts on the fourth.
Olivais dock and

the Pavilhão Atlântico
The central focus of the Parque
das Nações is the Olivais dock,
where boats pull in from
Cacilhas.You can also catch the
boat tours here (see p.198).The
main building facing the dock
is the Pavilhão de Portugal
(Portugal Pavilion), one of the
most impressive of the many
adventurous structures in the
park, featuring an enormous,
sagging concrete canopy on its
south side. Designed by Álvaro
Siza Vieira, architect of the
reconstructed Chiado district,
the building now holds
Portugal’s Council of Ministers
Contents Places
152
and looking like
something off the
set of a James Bond
film, the Oceanário
de Lisboa (Lisbon
Oceanarium), the
world’s third largest,
OCEANÁRIO contains some
25,000 fish and marine animals.
(a forum for Portuguese Its main feature is the enormous
Members of Parliament). central tank, the size of four
Opposite here is the spaceship- Olympic-sized swimming pools,
like Pavilhão Atlântico (Atlantic which you can look into from
Pavilion; t218 918 440, different levels for close-up, top-
wwww.pavilhaoatlantico.pt), to-bottom views – of the
officially Portugal’s largest sharks, which circle the main
indoor arena and the venue for body of the water, down to the
major visiting bands and rays burying themselves into the
sporting events. sand on the sea bed. Almost
more impressive, though, are the
Ciência Viva re-creations of various ocean
t 218 917 100. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, ecosystems, like the Antarctic
Sat & Sun 11am–7pm. e5, children tank, containing frolicking
e2.50. Run by Portugal’s penguins, and the Pacific tank,
Ministry of Science and where otters bob about in the
Technology (which shares the rock pools. On the darkened
premises), Ciência Viva or “Live lower level, smaller tanks
Science” hosts changing contain shoals of brightly
exhibitions on subjects such as coloured tropical fish and other
3-D animation and the latest warm-water creatures. Find a
computer technology.The window free of school parties
permanent exhibits aimed at and the whole experience
children – from flight simulators becomes the closest you’ll get to
to holograms – are particularly deep-sea diving without getting
good and there’s also a cybercafé wet.
offering free Internet access.
Teleférico
Jardins da Água Daily 11am–7pm. e3 one-way, e5
The Jardins da Água (Water return. The ski-lift-style teleférico
Garden), crisscrossed by riverlets (cable car) rises up to 20m as it
and ponds, are based on the shuttles you over Olivais Docks
stages of a river’s drainage to the northern side of the
pattern, from stream to estuary. Parque, giving commanding
Linked by stepping stones, there views over the site on the way.
are enough gushing fountains,
water gadgets and pumps to Torre Vasco da Gama
keep children occupied for t 218 969 867. Daily 10am–7pm.
hours. e2.50. Once an integral part of
an oil refinery, the Torre Vasco
Oceanário da Gama (Vasco da Gama
t 218 917 002, w www.oceanario.pt. Tower) viewing platform is, at
Daily 10am–7pm. e9, children e4.50. 145m high, Lisbon’s tallest
Designed by Peter Chermaeff structure. A lift to the top gives
Contents Places
153
a 360-degree panorama over pedaloes – from here for use on
Lisbon, the Tejo and into the the stretch of water in Olivais
Alentejo to the south.The dock, but these will set you
summit also holds a pricey back e4 for just ten minutes;
restaurant (see p.154). alternatively, you can hire bikes
PLACES Parque das Nações

for e2 per half-hour.
Parque do Tejo
Spreading along the waterfront Feira Internacional de Lisboa
right up to the Vasco da Gama t 218 921 500, w www.fil.pt.
bridge, Parque do Tejo is Opposite Sony Plaza, Lisbon’s
Lisbon’s newest park, a massive trade fair hall, the Feira
space complete with picnic Internacional de Lisboa (FIL),
areas, bike trails and riverside hosts various events, including
walks. Picnic supplies are a handicrafts fair displaying
available from the supermarkets ceramics and crafts from
in the Vasco da Gama shopping around the country (usually in
centre and bike hire from the July).
Sony Plaza (see below).
Bowling Internacional
Sony Plaza de Lisboa
Events and tickets organized by t 218 922 521, w www.bilbowling.
Pavilhão Atlântico – see p.151. Sony com. Mon–Fri noon–2am, Sat & Sun
Plaza is Lisbon’s largest purpose- 11am–2am. e4.75, off-peak discounts
built outdoor arena, which often available. The Bowling
hosts concerts and sports events. Internacional de Lisboa is
At other times, it’s the site of Portugal’s largest tenpin bowling
Adrenalina, a small adventure centre.There are also bouncy
park (Tues–Fri 2–7pm, Sat & castles for children, cafés and
Sun 11am–7pm; most rides or video games.
equipment e4) featuring
skateboard ramps, climbing
walls, trampolines and a
“Skycoaster”, a kind of bunjee
Shops
swing suspended 35m up; there Centro Vasco da Gama
are also bouncy castles and Avda D. João II t218 930 601,
inflatables for younger children. w www.centrovascodagama.pt. Daily
If all this isn’t enough 10am–midnight. Three floors of
excitement, you can also rent local and international stores are
bumper boats – little motorized housed under a glass roof
FOUNTAINS, PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES
Contents Places
154
permanently washed by running relatively quiet restaurant
water; branches include Celeiro, serving moderately priced
Hugo Boss, Pierre Cardin, Portuguese food. Diners pay half
Mango and C&A.There are also the e10 club entry fee.
various fast-food outlets, ten
cinema screens, children’s areas Havana

and disabled access. Rua da Pimenta 115–117. Daily
noon–4am. Lively Cuban bar with
an airy interior and outdoor
Restaurants seating.The pulsating Latin
sounds get progressively louder
Os Alentejanos after 11pm, when it turns into a
Cais dos Argonautas t218 956 116. more of a club until 4am.
Daily 12.30–10pm. Great wooden
barrels and hams dangling from República da Cerveja
the ceiling and waiters in broad- Passeio das Tágides 2–26 t 218 922
rimmed hats give a jolly feel to 590. Mon–Fri & Sun 12.30pm–1am,
this restaurant specializing in Sat 12.30pm–4am. In a great
regional food from the Alentejo position close to the water’s
– expect tapas (olives, cheeses, edge and facing the Vasco da
presunto ham), açorda with Gama bridge, this modern bar-
seafood and thick red wines, restaurant specializes in some
though genuine Alentejans fine international beers, though
would be horrified by the sticking to the local Superbock
prices. will save a few euros. Steaks and
German cuisine are also on
Restaurante Panorâmico offer, and there’s live music
Torre Vasco da Gama t218 939 550. Thursday to Saturday.
Tues–Sat noon–2pm & 8–10pm, Sun
noon–2pm. The top of the old oil
refinery tower is now an
exclusive restaurant with
fantastic views and some pretty
decent Portuguese and
international food at almost-as
high prices: expect to pay
around e30 per head. Steamed
sea bass, grilled tiger prawns and
oven-baked duck are just some
of the specialities.You’ll need to
reserve in advance.
Bars and clubs

Bugix
Rua D. Fuas Roupinho t218 951 181.
Restaurant: Tues–Sun noon–midnight.
Club: Thurs–Sat midnight–5am. The
“in” spot in the Parque at
present, with live music and
pulsating techno at weekends.
The rest of the week, Bugix is a VASCO DA GAMA SHOPPING CENTRE
Contents Places
155
Sintra
If you make just one day-trip during your stay in Lisbon,

choose the ride out to the beautiful hilltop town of
PLACES Sintra
Sintra, the former summer residence of Portuguese roy
alty. Not only does the town boast two of Portugal’s
most extraordinary palaces, it also contains a semi
tropical garden, a Moorish castle with breathtaking
views over Lisbon, and one of the best modern art
museums in the Iberian peninsula. Looping around a
series of green, wooded ravines Sintra consists of three
separate villages: Sintra-Vila is the oldest part, with
many of the town’s attractions close to its central
square, the Praça da República; Estefânia, a ten-minute
walk to the east, is where trains from Lisbon pull in;
while São Pedro – best visited during the São Pedro fes
tival (June 28–29) – lies to the south.
Getting to and around Sintra

Sintra is served by regular trains from Lisbon’s Rossio station (every 15–20min;
45min; e1.25 single). To see the area around Sintra, including the coast, consider
a Day-rover ticket on the local Scotturb buses (e7). Alternatively, bus #434 takes
a circular route from Sintra station or Sintra-Vila to most of the sites mentioned in
this chapter (every 40min; e3.50) and allows you to get on and off whenever you
like on the circuit.
Palácio Nacional crowds. Highlights on the lower

Largo da Rainha Dona Amélia t219 floor include the Manueline Sala
106 840. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun
CASTELO DOS MOUROS
10am–5.30pm. e3, free Sun
10am–2pm. The extraordinary
Palácio Nacional was probably
already in existence at the time
of the Moors, but takes its
present form from the rebuilding
of Dom João I (1385–1433) and
his successor, Dom Manuel, the
chief royal beneficiary of Vasco
da Gama’s explorations. Its
exterior style is an amalgam of
Gothic – featuring impressive
battlements – and Manueline,
tempered inside by a good deal
of Moorish influence, adapted
over the centuries by a
succession of royal occupants.
The palace is best seen early or
late in the day to avoid the
Contents Places
Sintra P LACES
� Colares & Praia das Maças (tram)

Monserrate & Seteais
Capuchos
156
C AR VA LH E IRO
ESTRADA DO
SINTRA-VILA
E S T R ADA
Fábrica das
Lawrences
DA PE
EATING & DRINKING

Adega das Caves
Alcobaça
Bar Fonte da Pipa
Café Paris
Casa da Avo
Casa da Piriquita
NA
Verdareiras Queijadas
Marquês de Sintra
Orixás
Toca do Javali
Tulhas
N
RU A
dos Cisnes, so called for the

DA PA
DERNA
swans (cisnes) on its ceiling, and

the Sala das Pegas, which takes its
name from the flock of magpies
(pegas) painted on the frieze and
ceiling – João I, caught in the act
of kissing a lady-in-waiting by his
queen, reputedly had the room
decorated with as many magpies
as there were women at court in
order to put a stop to their
gossip.
Contents
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RU
RUAS
M
AO TT
.E
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Palácio Nacional
Hotel Central
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Best of the upper floor is the

gallery above the palace chapel.
Beyond, a succession of state
rooms climaxes in the Sala das
Brasões, its domed and coffered
ceiling emblazoned with the
arms of 72 noble families.
Finally, don’t miss the kitchens,
their roofs tapering into the
giant chimneys that are the
palace’s distinguishing features.
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Portela & bus station
10 , Lisbon & Queluz
157
Museu do Brinquedo
Rua Visconde de Monserrate t219
106 016, w www.museu-do
-brinquedo.pt. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.
e3, children e1.50. Housed in a
PLACES Sintra
former fire station, the Museu
do Brinquedo – a fascinating
private toy collection – is a
great place for children.The
huge array of toys exhibited
over three floors is somewhat
confusingly labelled, but look
out for the 3000-year-old stone
Egyptian toys on the first floor,
the 1930s Hornby trains and
some of the first ever toy cars,
produced in Germany in the
early 1900s.There are cases of
soldiers numerous enough to
scare a real army, early
Portuguese toys including a QUINTA DA REGALEIRA
selection of 1930s beach toys,
wooden toys from Senegal, wire
bicycles from Zimbabwe, and a south beyond Lisbon to the
top floor stuffed with dolls and Serra da Arrábida, west to Cabo
doll’s house furniture.There’s da Roca and north to the
also a café and a small play area Berlenga islands.
for young children.
Palácio da Pena
Castelo dos Mouros Estrada de Pena t219 105 340.
t 219 237 300. Daily: June–Sept Tues–Sun: mid-June to mid-Sept
10am–7pm; Oct–May 10am–5pm; last 10am–7pm; mid-Sept to mid-June
entry 1hr before closing.e3.50. From 10am–5.30pm; last entry 1hr before
Calçada dos Clérigos, near the closing. Palace and gardens e6,
church of Santa Maria, a stone gardens only e3.50. The upper
pathway leads up to the ruined gate of the castle gives on to the
ramparts of the Castelo dos road up to Pena, opposite the
Mouros. Built in the ninth lower entrance to Parque da
century, it was taken in 1147 by Pena, a stretch of rambling
Afonso Henriques, with the aid woodland with a scattering of
of Scandinavian Crusaders.The lakes and follies. At the top of
castle walls were allowed to fall the park, about twenty minutes’
into disrepair over subsequent walk from the entrance, looms
centuries, though they were the fabulous Palácio da Pena, a
restored in the mid-nineteenth wild fantasy of domes, towers,
century as tourists increasingly ramparts and walkways,
began to make the climb.The approached through mock-
Moorish castle spans two rocky Manueline gateways and a
pinnacles, with the remains of a drawbridge that does not draw.
mosque spread midway between A compelling riot of kitsch, the
the fortifications, and the views palace was built in the 1840s to
from up here are extraordinary: the specifications of Ferdinand
Contents Places
158
of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, husband (available in English) every 30min–1hr;
of Queen Maria II, with the advance booking essential on t219
help of the German architect, 106 650; e10. Unguided visits e5.
Baron Eschwege.The interior is The Quinta da Regaleira, a
preserved exactly as it was left UNESCO World Heritage site,
Sintra PLACES
by the royal family when it fled is one of Sintra’s most elaborate

Portugal in 1910.The result is private estates. It is best to take a
fascinating: rooms of stone tour to get a full flavour of the
decorated to look like wood, place, though you are free to
turbaned Moors nonchalantly look around where you want
holding electric chandeliers – unguided. It was designed at the
it’s all here. Of an original turn of the twentieth century by
convent, founded to celebrate Italian architect and theatrical
the first sight of Vasco da Gama’s set designer Luigi Manini for
returning fleet, only a chapel wealthy Brazilian merchant
and genuine Manueline cloister António Augusto Carvalho
have been retained. Monteiro. Manini’s sense of the
Above Pena, a marked dramatic is obvious: the
footpath climbs in thirty principal building, the mock-
minutes or so to the Cruz Alta, Manueline Paláçio dos Milhões,
highest point of the Serra de sprouts turrets and towers,
Sintra. though the interior is sparse
apart from some elaborate
Quinta da Regaleira Rococo wooden ceilings and
Daily: Feb–May & Oct 10am–6.30pm; impressive Art Nouveau tiles.
June–Sept 10am–8pm; Dec–Jan The surrounding gardens shelter
10am–5.30pm. Ninety-minute tours fountains, terraces, lakes and
grottoes, with the highlight
RUA DAS PADARIAS
being the Initiation Well,
inspired by the initiation
practices of the Knights Templar
and the Freemasons. Entering
via an Indiana Jones-style
revolving stone door, you walk
down a moss-covered spiral
staircase to the foot of the well
and through a tunnel, which
eventually resurfaces at the edge
of a lake (though in winter you
exit from a shorter tunnel so as
not to disturb a colony of
hibernating bats). In summer,
the gardens host occasional
performances of live music,
usually classical or jazz.
Palácio de Seteais
Rua Barbosa do Bocage 8. The
“Seven Sighs” is one of the
most elegant palaces in Portugal,
completed in the last years of
the eighteenth century and
Contents Places
159
maintained today as
an immensely
luxurious hotel (see
p.189).The gardens
here host the annual
PLACES Sintra
Noites de Bailado
festival in August, a
series of dance, ballet
and operatic
performances with
top international
names.The palace
also runs its own LOCAL QUEIJADAS (CHEESE CAKES)
stables, the Centro
Hípico de Seteais (t219 233
200), which can arrange two- Cafés
hour treks to Monserrate and
Capuchos (see p.162). Adega das Caves
Rua de Pendoa 2 (café) & 8
Museu de Arte Moderna (restaurant). Café: daily 8am–2am.
Avenida Heliodoro Salgado Restaurant: Mon–Sat noon–3pm &
w www.berardocollection.com. 7–11pm. Bustling café-bar in the
Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. e3, free on basement of Café Paris (see
Thurs. The Museu de Arte p.160), attracting a
Moderna houses one of Iberia’s predominantly local and
best collections of modern art, youthful clientele; the
amassed by Madeiran tobacco neighbouring associated
magnate Joe Berardo. Located restaurant serves good-value
in Sintra’s former casino, the Portuguese grills.
collection spreads over three
LAWRENCE’S HOTEL
floors, displaying chronologically
the main modern movements,
including pop art, minimalism,
kinetic art and conceptual art.
The collection is so huge that
exhibits change every two
months; depending on when
you visit, you might see giant
Gilbert and George panels, and
works by Jackson Pollock, David
Hockney, Roy Lichtenstein and
Andy Warhol, including his
wonderful portrait of Judy
Garland. Lovers of kitsch will
enjoy Jeff Koons’ sculpture of a
poodle and Bobtail the
sheepdog.The top floor contains
a café and restaurant, with an
outdoor terrace offering great
views towards the Palácio da
Pena.
Contents Places
160
Fábrica das
Verdareiras
Queijadas da Sapa
Volta do Duche 12. Tues–Sun
9am–7pm. This old-
Sintra PLACES
fashioned café is famed

for its traditional
queijadas, which have
been made on the
premises for over a
century. It’s a bit dingy
inside, so it’s best to buy
takeaways to sustain you
on your walk to the
centre.
Marquês de Sintra
Parque das Castanheiro. Daily:
May–Sept 10am–8pm;
Oct–April 10am–5pm. Snack
bar on an outdoor
terrace in a small park,
where you can enjoy
snacks such as pizzas or
snails with great views
over the Palácio
ONE OF SINTRA’S NATURAL FONTS
Nacional.
Café Paris
Largo Rainha D. Amélia t219 232 Restaurants
375. Daily 8am–midnight. This
attractively blue-tiled café is the Alcobaça
highest-profile in town, which Rua das Padarias 7–11 t 219 231
means steep prices for not 651. Daily noon–4.30pm &
especially exciting food, 7pm–midnight. The best central
although it is a great place to sit choice for a decent,
and nurse a drink in the sun. If straightforward Portuguese
you do want to eat, reservations meal, on a small side street east
are advised in high season. of the main square. There’s
friendly service in the plain
Casa da Piriquita tiled dining room, and large
Rua das Padarias 1. Mon, Tues & servings of grilled chicken,
Thurs–Sun 9am–midnight. Cosy tea arroz de marisco (seafood rice),
room and bakery, which can get pork or steak for around e15 a
pretty smoky when it’s busy head.
with locals queueing to buy
queijadas da Sintra (sweet Casa da Avo
cheesecakes) and other pastries. Rua Visdonde de Monserrate 46 t 219
Further up the hill at no. 18 231 280. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun
there’s another, more modern noon–3pm & 7–11pm. Basic eating-
branch, Piriquita Dois (closed house with few pretensions, but
Tues), which boasts a big the house wine is cheap enough
outdoor terrace. and it’s hard to fault dishes like
Contents Places
161
caldeirada (fish stew).There’s a

decent café attached, too.
Bars and clubs
Bar Fonte da Pipa
Toca do Javali Rua Fonte da Pipa 11–13 t219 234
Rua 1º Dezembro 18, São Pedro de 437. Daily 9pm–2am. Laid-back bar
PLACES Sintra
Sintra t219 233 503. Mon, Tues & attracting a sophisticated
Thurs–Sun noon–midnight. Around clientele, with low lighting and
500m east of the main square in comfy chairs. It’s up the hill
São Pedro, this is much the best from Casa da Piriquita, next to
place to eat in this part of town, the lovely ornate fountain (fonte)
with outdoor tables in summer that the street is named after.
in a terraced garden, combined
with superb cooking at any time Orixás
of year.Wild boar (javali) is the Avda Adriano Coelho 7 t219 241 672.
house speciality. Prices are fairly Tues–Fri 4pm–midnight, Sat & Sun
steep, around e25 a head. noon–4pm & 8pm–midnight.
Reservations advised. Brazilian bar, restaurant, music
venue and art gallery housed in
Tulhas a lovely building complete with
Rua Gil Vicente 4 t 219 232 378. Mon, waterfalls and outdoor terrace,
Tues & Thurs–Sun noon–3.30pm & on the road behind the Museu
7–10pm. Imaginative cooking in de Arte Moderna. Go for the
a fine building converted from buffet to sample its range of
old grain silos.The speciality is Brazilian specialities; it costs
veal with Madeira at a around e30, but with live
reasonable e12 or so, but Brazilian music thrown in, that’s
anything here is recommended. not bad value.
It’s wise to book in advance.
CAFÉ PARIS
Contents Places
162
The Sintra coast,
Queluz and around
The Sintra coast, Queluz and around PLACES
The beautiful hills, woodlands and craggy coastline

around Sintra make up the Parque Natural Sintra-
Cascais, within which development is restricted. West
of Sintra, beyond the fantastic gardens of Monserrate,
the wine-producing village of Colares and the extraordi
nary Convento dos Capuchos, a series of small-scale
coastal resorts stretches north of Cabo da Roca (“cape
of rock”), Europe’s most westerly point. The sands
make an attractive destination for an afternoon out (or
even an overnight stop), but note that all the beaches
have dangerous currents.
Exactly halfway between Lisbon and Sintra, the eigh
teenth-century Rococo Palácio de Queluz provides a
rewarding break in your journey.
AZENHAS DO MAR
Monserrate enhanced by the fact that it’s

Estrada da Monserrate t 219 237 only partially maintained. The
300. Daily: June–Sept 9am–7pm; name most associated with
Oct–May 9am–5pm. e3.50. No Monserrate is that of William
public transport; return taxi from Beckford, the wealthiest
Sintra with 1hr stopover costs around untitled Englishman of his age,
e15. The charm of who rented Monserrate from
Monserrate, a Victorian folly- 1793 to 1799, having been
like mansion set in a vast forced to flee Britain after he
botanical park of exotic trees was caught in an
and subtropical shrubs and uncompromising position with
plants, is immeasurably a 16-year-old boy. Setting
Contents Places
�
�5
45 �
410
Praia Pequena
Praia Grande
Praia
da Adraga
23 4
4
1
23 45
Cascais
Azoia
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EN247-4
Cabo
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Orbitur Guincho
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EN
24
7
11
Camping
12 3 4
about improving the place, he

landscaped a waterfall and even
imported a flock of sheep from
his estate at Fonthill.
Half a century later, a second
immensely rich Englishman, Sir
Francis Cook, bought the estate.
His fantasies were scarcely less
ambitious, involving the
construction of a great Victorian
house inspired by Brighton
Pavilion. Cook also imported
the head gardener from Kew to
lay out succulents and water
plants, tropical ferns and palms,
and just about every known
conifer. For a time Monserrate
boasted the only lawn in Iberia
and it remains one of Europe’s
most richly stocked gardens,
with over a thousand different
Contents
1
Praia Grande
23
45
(s T
4
do Mar
Praia das Maças
um RA
me M
ro
Colares
PARQUE NATURAL
SINTRA-CASCAIS
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75
Eugaria
Penedo
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EN
Places
37
Capuchos
5
EN
24
Monserrate
EN
EN9-1
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Ericeira
Autodrome
Ribeira
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Palácio
Lagoa
Azul
Penha Longa
EN9
Cascais & Estoril

i
Quinta da
Regaleira
de Seteais
species of subtropical trees and

plants.
There has been talk of
renovating the house for years,
but for the time being it
remains closed to the public.
However, you can still admire
the exterior, with its mix of
Moorish and Italian decoration
– the dome is modelled on the
Duomo in Florence.
Colares
A5
Bus #403 from Sintra or Cascais train

stations (every 90min); or Praia das
Maças tram from Sintra Estefânia
(May–Sept only: t219 231 157 for
details). Twenty minutes
northwest of Sintra, this wealthy
village is famed for its rich red
wine made from ancient vines
EN
9
Sintra
Mafra
N
IC16
Lisbon
IC1
9
163
Mafra
Queluz
Lisbon
PLACES The Sintra coast, Queluz and around

164
grown in the local sandy soil. bay with just one beach
The producer Adega Regional restaurant is certainly far quieter
de Colares (t219 288 082) than the other resorts, but it
hosts occasional tastings, takes the full brunt of the
concerts and exhibitions. For Atlantic, so you’ll need to take
The Sintra coast, Queluz and around PLACES
superb views back towards great care when swimming.

Sintra, head uphill following the
sign “Penedo”. Cabo da Roca
Bus #403 from Sintra or Cascais train
Azenhas do Mar stations (every 90min; 45min). Little
Bus #441 from Sintra (every 1–2hr; more than a windswept rocky
40min). Steep whitewashed cape with a lighthouse, this is the
cottages tumble down the cliff most westerly point in mainland
face at the pretty fishing village Europe, which guarantees a
of Azenhas do Mar.The beach is steady stream of visitors – get
small, but there are sea-pools for there early to avoid the coach
swimming in when the sea is parties.You can soak up the
too rough. views from the café-restaurant
(daily 9.30am–7.30pm).
Praia das Maçãs
Bus #441 from Sintra (every 1–2hr; Convento dos Capuchos
30min); or Praia das Maças tram from Daily: May–Sept 9.30am–7pm;
Sintra Estefânia (May–Sept only: t219 Oct–April 9.30am–5pm. Guided tours
231 157 for details). The largest only (available in English), every
and liveliest resort on this 15–30min; advance booking essential
stretch, Praia das Maçãs is also on t219 237 300; e3.50. No public
the easiest to reach from Sintra transport. If you have your own
– take the tram for the most transport, don’t miss a trip to
enjoyable journey. Along with a the Convento dos Capuchos, an
big swath of sand, Praia das extraordinary hermitage with
Maçãs has an array of bars and tiny, dwarf-like cells cut from
restaurants to suit all budgets. the rock and lined in cork –
hence its popular name of the
Praia Grande “Cork Convent”. It was
Bus #441 from Sintra (every 1–2hr; occupied for three hundred
25min). Set in a wide, sandy cliff- years until being finally
backed bay, this is one of the abandoned in 1834 by its seven
best and safest beaches on the remaining monks, who must
Sintra coast, though its breakers have found the gloomy warren
attract surfers aplenty, and of rooms and corridors too
bodyboarding competitions are much to maintain. Some rooms
held here too. Plenty of – the penitents’ cells – can only
inexpensive cafés and restaurants be entered by crawling through
spread along the beachside road. 70cm-high doors; here, and on
every other ceiling, doorframe
Praia da Adraga and lintel, are attached panels of
No public transport; by car, follow the cork, taken from the
signs from the village of Almoçageme. surrounding woods. Elsewhere,
Praia da Adraga was flatteringly you’ll come across a washroom,
voted one of Europe’s best kitchen, refectory, tiny chapels,
beaches by a British newspaper; and even a bread oven set apart
the unspoilt, cliff-backed, sandy from the main complex.
Contents Places
165
Penha Longa Golf Club a museum, the palace is still

Estrada da Lagoa Azul-Linhó t219 pressed into service to
249 031, w www.portugalgolf.pt. accommodate state guests and
Mon–Fri e82 per round, Sat & Sun dignitaries. It was built by Dom
e105. Golf club hire from e22. One Pedro III, husband and regent to
PLACES The Sintra coast, Queluz and around

of the most famous of Portugal’s his niece, Queen Maria I. Maria
many golf courses, the upmarket lived here throughout her 39
Penha Longa Golf Club is set in year reign (1777–1816), for the
a former monastic estate. last 27 years of which she was
Designed by Robert Trent quite mad, following the death
Jones, the course has superb of her eldest son, José.
views towards the sea and has Visitors first enter the Throne
hosted the Portuguese Open. Room, which is lined with
Not surprisingly, it’s best to mirrors surmounted by
book in advance to be sure of a paintings and golden flourishes.
game; note that a handicap of Beyond is the more restrained
28 is required. Music Chamber with its portrait
of Queen Maria above a French
Palácio de Queluz grand piano. Another wing
t 214 350 039. Mon & Wed–Sun comprises an elegant suite of
10am–5pm. e3, free Sun mornings. public rooms – smoking, coffee
Train from Rossio or Sintra to Queluz- and dining rooms – and the
Belas (every 15–20min; 20min; e0.90 Ambassador’s Chamber, where
single). The royal Palácio de diplomats and foreign ministers
Queluz is the country’s finest were received during the
example of Rococo nineteenth century. One of the
architecture. Although its low, most pleasing rooms is the
pink-washed wings and simple Dressing Room, with its
extensive eighteenth-century geometric inlaid wooden floor
formal gardens are preserved as and spider’s-web ceiling.
PRAIA GRANDE
Contents Places
The Sintra coast, Queluz and around PLACES 166
COLARES VELHO RESTAURANT
Entry to the formal gardens is restaurant and teahouse on

included in the ticket price. Colares’ tiny main square.The
From May to October there’s a traditional Portuguese cuisine is
display of Portuguese pricey but superbly prepared (in
horsemanship here every autumn, game is a speciality);
Wednesday at 11am (e1), and alternatively, just pop in for tea
the palace also hosts events for and cake.
the Sintra music festival (see
p.199). Cozinha Velha
Palácio de Queluz t214 350 232.
Daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30–10pm. You
Cafés can still eat a meal in the
original kitchen of the Queluz
Esplanada do Casino palace, although the food
Esplanada Vasco da Gama, Praia das doesn’t always live up to its
Maças. Daily 10am–6pm. With an setting and you’re looking at
outdoor terrace facing the around e25 a head for a full
sands, this is the ideal spot for a meal.There is, however, a
cool drink, sandwich or ice cheaper café in the main body
cream. Daredevil specialities of the palace.
include a salada de orelha de porco
(pig’s ear salad). O Loureiro
Esplanada Vasco da Gama, Praia das
Maças. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun
Restaurants 11am–3pm & 7–11pm. In a prime
location overlooking the beach,
Colares Velho this is the best place to try the
Largo Dr Carlos Franca 1–4, Colares local fresh fish and seafood;
t219 292 406. Tues–Sun grilled squid is always a good
11am–11pm. Delightful upmarket and inexpensive choice.
Contents Places
�
Market & Cabo da Roca
Praça de Touros (bullring)
�Boca do Inferno & Guincho
Cascais and Estoril
Lisbon’s most accessible coastline lies just beyond the

point where the Tejo flows into the Atlantic at the popu
lar resorts of Cascais and Estoril. With its grandiose vil
las, luxury hotels and top-rated golf courses, Estoril has
pretensions towards being a “Portuguese Riviera”, but it
lacks the character and buzz of neighbouring Cascais,
which has a much younger and less exclusive feel and
makes the better day-trip of the two. Getting to the
resorts is half the fun – from the city centre, trains from
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Contents
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A V E NI D A M AR G I N AL
Praia da
Rainha
Marina de Cascais
Jardim dos Frangos

John Bull
Music Bar
O Pescador
167
Praia da
Conceição
2
6
4
5
Lisbon & Estoril
PLACES Cascais and Estoril

168
Cais do Sodré (every 20min; 35min to Estroril, 40min to
Cascais; e1.25 single) wend along the shore – at times
so close to the water that waves almost break over the
tracks. There are also regular buses to and from Sintra
and Lisbon airport. Sadly, the water along this stretch is
Cascais and Estoril PLACES
not particularly clean until you get beyond Cascais to

the impressive beach of Guincho.
Cascais town a mini zoo and playground,

Many of Cascais’ most popular makes a welcome escape from
bars and restaurants cluster the beach crowds. In one
round the pretty palm-lined corner of the park stands the
Largo Luis de Camões, set at beautiful mansion of the
one end of Rua Frederico nineteenth-century Count of
Arouca. Nearby is the lively Guimarães, preserved complete
fish market (Mon–Sat with its fittings as the Museu
6am–noon). Biblioteca Conde Castro
The old and surprisingly Guimarães (Tues–Sun
pretty west side of Cascais town 10am–5pm; e1.30, tours
is at its most delightful in the e1.60).
streets around the graceful To the east, the walls of
Igreja da Assunção – worth a Cascais’ largely seventeenth-
look inside for its azulejos, century fortress (closed to the
which predate the earthquake public) now guard the entrance
of 1755.The modern Museu to the Marina de Cascais, an
do Mar (Tues–Sun enclave of expensive yachts
10am–5pm; e1.30; t 214 825 serviced by restaurants, bars and
400) is an engaging little boutiques.
collection of items showing the
town’s relationship with the sea, Cascais beaches
with model boats, costumes and Cascais’s largest beach, Praia
evocative photos of old Cascais. da Conceição, lies east of Rua
The delightful Parque Frederico Arouca – Cascais’
Municipal da Gandarinha, main mosaic-paved pedestrian
filled with exotic trees, picnic thoroughfare – and is the best
tables and a small lake, as well as place to lounge on the sands.
PRAIA DE CONCEIÇAO, CASCAIS
Contents Places
169
The smaller beaches of Praia
da Rainha and Praia da
Ribeira are in the middle of
town, surrounded by rock
formations which are good for

clambering over and using as
diving platforms.To the south of
town, guarded by a lighthouse
and tucked down a low cliff, is
the little beach of Praia de
Santa Marta, with a nice café
on a terrace above the sands; it’s
a tranquil spot, though signs
advise against swimming here.
Boca do Inferno
It’s about twenty minutes’ walk
west from Cascais along the
coastal road to the Boca do
Inferno – the “Mouth of Hell” PARQUE GANDARINHA, CASCAIS
– where waves crash against
caves in the cliff face.The casino (daily; free; semi-formal
viewpoints above are always attire required; t214 667 700,
packed with tourists, but the wwww.casino-estoril.pt), where
whole affair is rather James Bond author Ian Fleming
unimpressive except in stormy gained much of his inspiration
weather. for his agents’ exploits.The
Feira Internacional
Praia do Guincho Artesanato – handicrafts and
There are buses every one or folk music festivals – is held
two hours from outside Cascais nearby in July.
train station to Praia do The resort’s fine sandy beach,
Guincho, 6km west, a great Praia de Tamariz, is backed
sweeping beach with body- by a seafront promenade that
crashing Atlantic rollers.The stretches all the way northwest
water is clean and it’s a superb to Cascais. A stroll between the
place to surf or windsurf – two towns is recommended,
Windsurfing Championships are drifting from beach to bar; the
usually held here in August – walk takes around twenty
but the undertow is notoriously minutes. From July to mid-
strong and people are drowned September, a free firework
almost every year.The beach display takes place above the
and the coastal approach road is beach every Saturday night at
flanked by half a dozen large midnight.
terrace-restaurants, all with fish-
dominated menus.
Estoril
Cafés
Estoril’s town centre is focused Esplanada Santa Marta
on the leafy Parque do Praia de Santa Marta, Cascais.
Estoril, surrounded by bars and Tues–Sat 10am–10pm. One of the
restaurants. At the top end of best places to enjoy charcoal-
the park is Europe’s biggest grilled fish, which is served on a
Contents Places
170
Restaurants
Bangkok
Rua Bela Vista 6, Cascais t214 847
Cascais and Estoril PLACES
600. Daily 1–3pm & 7.30–11pm.

Sublime Thai cooking in a
traditional Cascais town house,
beautifully decorated with
inlaid wood and Oriental
furnishings.This place attracts
media stars and politicians so
it’s best to reserve in advance.
Highlights include lobster in
curry paste and the assorted
Thai snacks; expect to pay
upwards of e30 a head for
seafood, though you can eat for
less if you choose carefully.
Dom Manolo’s
Avda Com. Grande Guerra 11, Cascais
t 214 831 126. Daily 10am–midnight.
Busy grill-house where superb
chicken and chips, salad, local
wine and home-made dessert
will come to around e15.
English Bar (Cimas)

Avda Sabóia 9, Monte Estoril (signed
just northwest of the train station,
around 10min from the centre of
Estoril) t 214 680 413. Mon–Sat
12.30–4pm & 7.30–11pm. Despite
the name, this is actually one of
the region’s best restaurants.
Named for the Englishman
FISHERMAN AT BOCA DO INFERNO who built the mansion in the
tiny terrace overlooking the sea 1940s, it has been run by the
and the little beach. same Hispano-Portuguese
family since 1952.The
Music Bar sumptuous wood-panelled
Largo da Praia da Rainha 121, Cascais. decor, sea views and top-quality
May–Sept daily 10am–10pm; Oct–April fish, meat and game have
closed Mon. One of the few café- attracted leading politicians,
bars in Cascais with decent sea journalists and even Spanish
views. It’s a fine spot to have a royalty. Expect to pay upwards
sunset beer, and the outside of e30 a head.
tables on the patio above the
beach are packed throughout Jardim dos Frangos
the day. It also does decent, Avda Com. Grande Guerra 66, Cascais.
moderately priced fish and Daily 10am–midnight. Permanently
grilled meats. buzzing with people and
Contents Places
171
sizzling with the speciality,

bargain grilled chicken, which is
Bars and clubs
devoured by the plateful at Caramba
indoor and outdoor tables. Praia de Tamariz, Estoril t214 661
926. Daily noon–4am. Large

Muchaxo beachside café-bar by day which
Praia do Guincho t 214 870 221. Daily turns into a lively and loud
noon–3.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm. This disco bar after dark, with nightly
restaurant, overlooking the DJ sessions.
crashing waves of Guincho, is
rated one of the best in the Coconuts
Lisbon area. A meal will set you Avda Rei Humberto II de Itália 7,
back around e25 a head, but Cascais t214 844 109. Wed–Sat
that’s not bad value for some 11pm–4am. Perennially popular
delicious Portuguese fish and club attracting trendy locals and
meat delicacies.Tables at lunch raving tourists.There’s a sea-
are usually easy to come by, facing terrace, karaoke bar and
though you might want to book theme nights (from foam parties
for dinner. to “ladies” night). Guest DJs
appear on Thursdays.
O Pescador
Rua das Flores 10, Cascais t 214 832 John Bull
054. Mon–Sat 12.30–3pm & Praça Costa Pinto 31, Cascais t 214
7.30–11pm. One of several places 833 319. Daily 10am–2am. English-
close to the fish market, this one style pub that fills up early with
offers superior fish meals. Good a good-time crowd; it serves
food, smart decor and efficient meals, too, at tables outside in
service; bookings advised for the attractive square.
dinner.
Jonas Bar
Pintos Paredão do Estoril, Monte Estoril. Daily
Arcadas do Parque 18b, Estoril. Mon & 10am–1am. Right on the seafront
Wed–Sun 8am–2am. Multifaceted between Cascais and Estoril, this
place which quadruples as an is a fun spot day or night, selling
inexpensive restaurant, cocktails, juices and snacks until
marisqueira, pastelaria and the small hours.
pizzeria; the main draw is the
outdoor seating facing the park.
LARGO LUÍS DE CAMÕES, CASCAIS
Contents Places
172
South of the Tejo
South of the River Tejo – spanned by the huge Ponte 25

de Abril suspension bridge – lies a string of largely
South of the Tejo PLACES
industrial suburbs, but several enjoyable day-trip desti

nations provide respite from the high-rises. With your
own transport, you could take in several of these on a
day’s circuit from Lisbon. Easiest to reach is Cacilhas, a
fun ferry ride south of Lisbon, which boasts excellent
seafood restaurants and fine views back over the estu
ary. To the west, Caparica is a high-rise resort on a
superb stretch of wave-pounded beach. Further south,
your choices are more restricted if you’re relying on
public transport. Here, there are more fine beaches –
like those at Lagoa de Albufeira and Aldeia do Meco –
before the coast ends at the wild headland of Cabo
Espichel. East of here lie the calmer waters around
Sesimbra and the Parque Natural da Arrábida, a craggy
mountain range fronted by some superb, calm-watered
beaches.
Cacilhas fifteen minutes’ walk to the

Ferries from Estação Fluvial by Praça Elevador Panorâmico da
do Comércio (every 10min, Boca do Vento (daily
6am–9.30pm; e0.60 single; 8am–11.45pm; e1 return), a
suspended until end of 2004) and Cais sleek lift which whisks you up
do Sodré (every 10min, the cliff face to the attractive
5.30am–2.30am; e0.60 single). The old part of Almada, giving
short, blustery ferry ride from fantastic views over the river
Lisbon to Cacilhas is great fun and right over the city.
and grants wonderful views of On the heights above Almada
the city. From the ferry stand the outstretched arms of
terminal in Cacilhas, head west Cristo Rei, a relatively modest
towards the bridge along the version of Rio de Janeiro’s
waterfront, past O Ponto Final Christ statue, built in 1959. A
restaurant, and it’s around lift at the statue (daily:
CACILHAS FERRY
Contents Places
Cascais
� �
Trafaria
i
Caparica
Cabo
Co
sta
A5
da
Belém
Cristo Rei
Porto
Brandão
Orbitur Costa
de Caparica
�
Capuchos
su m
Cap
me
Aldeia do Meco
Campimeco
Espichel
�
June–Sept 9am–7.30pm;
r on
arica
Lagoa de
Albufeira
Oct–May 9am–6pm; e1.50;

bus #101 from outside the
EN3
ly
EN
Cacilhas ferry terminal; t212

751 000) shuttles you 80m up
77
to a dramatic viewing platform,

from where, on a clear day at
Airport
37
Corroios
least, you can catch a glimpse of

the glistening roof of the Pena
palace at Sintra.
Caparica
9
Regular express or slower local buses

from Cacilhas (every 15–30min;
30min), or from Lisbon’s Praça de
Espanha (every 30min; 40min–1hr).
Regular buses also link Caparica with
Trafaria, which has ferry connections
to the Estação Fluvial de Belém Belém
(every 30min–1hr). Lisbon’s main
Contents
Lisbon
Fonte da Telha
RESERVA DA
Zambujal
Cacilhas
Almada
Fogtueteiro
MATA NACIONAL
DOS MEDOS
EN378
Places
Ri
Seixal
Sesimbra
o
Te
Fernão Ferro
jo
Vila Nogueira
de Azeitão
EN379
SER
RA
PARQUE NATURAL
DE ARRÁBIDA
D
Barreiro
EN10
A
RR
Convento �
A
IC2
1
IDA
Ponte Vasco da Gama & Airport
Montijo
A2
Á B EN379-1
EN10
Galapos
seaside resort, Caparica is high-

rise, tacky and packed at
weekends in summer, but don’t
let that put you off. Its family
atmosphere, restaurants and
beachside cafés full of tanned
surfers make it a thoroughly
enjoyable day out.
From May to early October,
buses stop at the bus park near
the beginning of the sands. In
winter, buses use the station in
Praça Padre Manuel Bernardes,
in which case it’s best to get off
at the first stop in Caparica, on
the edge of the leafy Praça da
Liberdade, five minutes from
the beach. From Praça da
Liberdade the pedestrianized
Rua dos Pescadores – lined
EN39
Outão
Outão
Portinho Figueirinha
da Arrábida
0
2
A12
Tróia
Praia de Albarquel
N
Pinhal
Palmela
Setúbal i
Rio Sado
173
5km
Algarve
PLACES South of the Tejo

South of the Tejo PLACES 174
BEACH FOOTBALL, CAPARICA
with cafés, restaurants and mallards, shovellers and

inexpensive guesthouses – heads woodcocks, and there’s a superb
down to the seafront. neighbouring beach pummelled
From the beach, a narrow- by surf.
gauge mini-railway
(June–Sept departures daily Aldeia do Meco
every 20min; e3.50 return) runs Despite being swamped by a fair
south along 8km or so of dunes bit of development, the village
to Fonte da Telha, a scattered of Aldeia do Meco is an
resort of beach huts, cafés and attractive place, though again
restaurants including the lovely you’ll need a car to get here. Its
Bar Terminal (see p.178).You can low cliff-backed beach, Praia do
jump off at any one of the Meco, is popular with nudists;
twenty stops en route; earlier take care when swimming as the
stops tend to be family- currents can be lethal. Like the
oriented, while later ones are, other beaches on this coast, it is
on the whole, younger, with prone to overcrowding in July
nudity (though officially illegal) and August, but can be almost
more or less obligatory.This is deserted out of season.
especially true around stops 18
and 19, a predominately gay Cabo Espichel
area. Fonte da Telha also has bus Buses from Sesimbra (2 daily at
links with Cacilhas; the 1.30pm & 2.50pm, return at 2pm &
circuitous and infrequent service 3.30pm). Wild and windswept
leaves from the top of the hill cliffs drop almost vertically
roughly every one or two several hundred feet into the
hours. Atlantic at Cabo Espichel, an
end-of-the-world plateau where
Lagoa de Albufeira the road stops at a wide church
Busy in summer with swimmers square enclosed on three sides
and windsurfers and at other by ramshackle, arcaded
times frequented by fishermen, eighteenth-century pilgrimage
the Lagoa de Albufeira is a lodgings.
lovely spot, though you’ll need
your own car to reach it as Sesimbra
public transport is virtually non Buses from Lisbon’s Praça de Espanha
existent.The lagoon is home to (hourly 8am–7.30pm; 90min; e3). In
Contents Places
175
summer, it’s usually quicker to take the Parque Natural da Arrábida

ferry across to Cacilhas and pick up a No public transport. Surprisingly
bus there (every 30min 7am–midnight; wild and unspoilt, the Parque
1hr; e3). Largely a holiday Natural da Arrábida is an hour
destination for Lisboetas, or so’s drive south of the

Sesimbra is still an admirable capital.With a coastline
spot, with excellent swimming sheltering some of Portugal’s
from the long beach and an calmest sandy bays, the park
endless row of café-restaurants. spreads across a 500-metre-high
At night, families crowd the line granite ridge known as the
of restaurants east of the fort, Serra da Arrábida, visible for
along Avenida 25 de Abril, and miles around and home to
round the little Largo dos wildcats, badgers, polecats,
Bombaldes. buzzards and Bonelli eagles.The
Sesimbra’s fishing port, Porto most dramatic sections of the
de Abrigo, is a pleasant walk park are crossed by two roads,
along Avenida dos Náufragos. the twisting N379–1, which
There are daily fish auctions winds across its upper stretches,
here, and a variety of boat and the narrow EN10-4 coastal
trips departing most days road. Note, however, that in July
during the summer: the Clube and August, an elaborate one-
Naval offers half-day cruises on way system operates here to
a traditional sailing boat, the control the beach traffic, with
Santiago (June–Sept usually the coast road operating
departs daily at 10am & 1pm; westwards only before 7pm.
from e40 per person; t212 Apart from the views, the
233 451, wwww.naval main highlight of the upper
sesimbra.pt); while Aquarama road is the Convento da
operates two-hour glass- Arrábida (Wed–Sun 3–4pm;
bottomed boat trips (May–Sept e3; to visit at other times call
daily at 11am & 3pm; e15; t212 180 520), built by
t965 263 157). Franciscan monks in the
For panoramas over the sixteenth century. Dazzling
surrounding countryside and white buildings tumble down a
coastline make the short drive steep hillside, offering stunning
(or a stiff half-hour climb from ocean views.
the centre) to the battlemented Down on the coast road, the
Moorish castle (open access; tiny harbour village of
free) which sits on the heights Portinho da Arrábida stands
above town.Within the walls are at one end of the region’s best
a pretty eighteenth-century beaches – wonderful out of
church, café and cemetery. season, when it is often
LAGOA DE ALBUFEIRA
Contents Places
South of the Tejo PLACES 176
PRAIA DO MECO
deserted. Diving equipment is 10am–12.15pm & 2.15–4.30pm; e2,

available to rent from the e3 on Sat. Advance bookings essen
Centro de Mergulho (t212 183 tial. Buses from Lisbon’s Praça de
197) on the beach, and there are Espanha (hourly 8am–7.30pm;
a couple of good restaurants 45min).The big highlight in the
here too including Beira Mar otherwise dull town of Vila
(see p.177). Nogueira de Azeitão is the José
Maria da Fonseca wine vaults
Setúbal and museum.Tours (available in
Buses from Lisbon’s Praça de Espanha English) which last 45 minutes,
(every 30min 7am–8pm; 1hr), and take in the vaults, lined with a
from Cacilhas (hourly 7am–midnight; superb series of azulejos – some
50min).The large, industrial port dating back to the fifteenth cen
town of Setúbal is the departure tury – and include a free tasting,
point for year-round dolphin- providing an interesting intro
watching trips (Oct–April duction to the local wine, a
daily 9.30am & 3pm, dependent Setúbal Moscatel.
on the weather; minimum six
people required; e28; t265 238
000, Evertigemazul@mail Restaurants
.telepac.pt), run by Vertigem
Azul.The Sado estuary and O Barbas
coast off Arrábida is one of the Praia da Costa, Caparica t212 900
best places in Portugal to see 163. Mon & Thurs–Sun noon–2am,
bottle-nosed dolphins. Tues noon–3am. With window
seats looking out over the sands,
José Maria da Fonseca O Barbas (The Beard) is an
wine vaults and museum atmospheric beach restaurant
Rua José Augusto Coelho, Vila Nogueira with affordable fish to die for.
de Azeitão t212 198 940. Mon–Fri You’ll probably see the owner –
9am–noon & 2.15–4.15pm, Sat he’s the one with the huge
Contents Places
177
amounts of facial hair. From Tucked up a side street behind

Rua das Pescadores, head north Largo dos Bombaldes, this cosy
up the esplanade; the restaurant place specializes in mid-priced
is on your right. swordfish cooked in cream and
port, and has a terrace

Beira Mar overlooking the sea.
Portinho da Arrábida t 212 180 544.
STONE CROSS IN COURTYARD,
Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun noon–10pm. CABO ESPICHEL
Prominent seafront restaurant
set on stilts over the water,
serving a good range of
moderately priced fish and
seafood. Galeão, next door
(open daily) has a similar
menu and a fine outdoor
terrace.
Cervejaria Farol
Alfredo Dinis Alex 1–3, Cacilhas
t 212 765 248. Tues & Thurs–Sun
9am–midnight. The most high-
profile beer hall and seafood
restaurant in Cacilhas, with
some of the best views across
the Tejo to match. If you feel
extravagant, it’s hard to beat
the lobsters, though other
dishes are moderately priced.
Azulejos on the wall show the
old farol (lighthouse) that once
stood here – the restaurant is
located along the quayside, on
the right as you leave the
ferry.
O Ponto Final
Rua do Ginjal 72, Cacilhas t212 760
743. Mon & Wed–Sun 12.30–11pm.
Near the foot of the lift to
Almada, this moderately priced
restaurant has a menu packed
with well-cooked Portuguese
dishes; try the carapauzinhas
(little mackerel) with tomato
rice. If you want to sit outside
while eating and enjoying the
views, this is the place to
come.
A Tasca de Ratinho
Rua Plinio Mesquita 17, Sesimbra
T212 232 542. Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun
noon–3.30pm & 7.30–11pm.
Contents Places
178
mini-railway,
this is an
idyllic little
bar-restaurant
on a wooden
South of the Tejo PLACES
platform
raised above
the beach. Just
right for a
beer, but also
serves snacks
and the
ubiquitous
grilled
sardine.
A Galé
Rua Capitão
Leitão 5,
Sesimbra. Daily
7am–midnight.
On a raised
terrace
overlooking
the sea, this
popular no-
frills café-bar
attracts
students and
youthful
Lisboetas.The
house wine is
BARRELS FROM FONSECA WINE MUSEUM
extremely
rough.
Toni Bar
Largo dos Bombaldes, Sesimbra t212 Mareante
233 199. Daily noon–2am. For a Avda dos Náufragos 13, Sesimbra.
quality if expensive fish or Daily 10am–2am. Sleek place that’s
shellfish meal, the Toni Bar at a café-bar by day and a
the back of the square is hard to booming music bar after dark,
beat. Reservations are advised in with occasional live music.
high season.
Tarquinho Bar
Praia da Costa, Caparica. Mon–Thurs &
Bars Sun 10am–7pm, Fri & Sat
10am–midnight. Popular surfers’
Bar Terminal hangout right on the seafront
Fonte da Telha. Tues–Sun 10am–10pm, promenade, with cocktails,
open weekends only in winter. sangria and snacks served at
Doubling as the terminal for the wooden outdoor tables shaded
by straw-mat roofs.
Contents Places
Accommodation
Contents Accommodation
Accommodation
181
Hotels
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
Lisbon has some sumptuous spread of rolls, cereals, croissants,
hotels set in historic buildings cold meat, cheese and fruit.
and palaces, along with numer
ous less exclusive options in and
around the centre. Besides hotels,
The Baixa
there are pensions (pensões; sin Hotel Duas Nações Rua da Vitória 41
gular pensão) and guesthouses t213 460 710, f213 470 206. Classy,
(residenciais; singular residencial) – pleasantly faded nineteenth-century hotel
with a secure entrance and helpful, English-
the only difference between the
speaking reception. Surprisingly quiet for so
last two being that some pensões
central a location. e60.
serve meals, while residenciais do
Pensão Prata Rua da Prata 71–3° t213
not. Pensions and guesthouses 468 908. You’ll need mountaineering expe
are officially graded from one to rience to climb the stairs to this pension,
three stars, with the more basic which has small rooms in a welcoming,
ones having little more than a family-run apartment. Some rooms have
sink in the room, while three- their own showers (e40; toilets are sepa
star places usually include en- rate), while others share a clean bathroom
suite bathroom facilities, tele at a bargain e25.
phone and a TV. Residencial Insulana Rua da Assunção
Prices given below are for the 52 t213 423 131,f213 428 924.
cheapest double room available Reached via a series of underwear shops,
in high season (though expect this is one of the more upmarket Baixa
big increases on these prices dur options, with carpeted entrance hall, smart
ing the Euro 2004 competition). rooms, English-speaking staff and its own
Prices drop considerably out of bar overlooking a quiet pedestrianized
season.All the pensions, guest street. e55.
houses and hotels reviewed
below have an en-suite bath or
shower unless otherwise stated. Rossio and around
Many of them include breakfast. Hotel Avenida Palace Rua 1° Dezembro
comprising anything from bread, 123 t213 460 151, wwww.hotel
jam and coffee to a generous avenida-palace.pt. Built at the end of the
Booking accommodation
The main tourist offices (see p.196 for details) can provide accommodation lists,
but won’t reserve rooms for you. In the summer months, in particular, email, fax
or telephone a reservation at least a week in advance; most owners understand
English. It is also advisable to reconfirm any booking a day or two in advance
and, ideally, to get written confirmation, as some places have been known to deny
all knowledge of verbal reservations during busy times. At Easter and in sum
mer room availability is often stretched to the limit, with prices artificially inflated
(though August is often considered mid-season, as most locals clear out of the
city). At these times you should be prepared to take anything vacant and, if need
be, look around the next day for somewhere better or cheaper. Fortunately, during
most of the year you should have little difficulty in finding a room and you can
always try to knock the price down at quieter times, especially if you can sum
mon a few good-natured phrases in Portuguese.
�
Hotels ACCOMMODATION
� Cascais and Estoril

Alcântara
182
BA
R.
ACCOMMODATION
Albergaria Senhora do Monte 18
As Janelas Verdes
Casa de São Mamede
Hotel Anjo Azul
Hotel Avenida Palace
Hotel Borges
Hotel Britania
Hotel Dom Carlos
Hotel Duas Nações
Hotel Flamingo
Hotel International
Hotel Lisboa Plaza
Hotel Lisboa Regency
Hotel Metrópole
Hotel Miraparque
Hotel Mundial
Hotel Portugal
Hotel Real Parque
Hotel Suíço Atlântico
Hotel Tivoli Lisboa
Hotel Veneza
Lapa Palace
Palácio Belmonte
Pensão Coimbra e Madrid
Pensão Duque
Amoreiras
Pensão Globo
Shopping
Pensão Londres
Pensão Luar
Centre
Pensão Ninho das Águias
Pensão Prata
Pensão Portuense
Pensão Residencial Gerês
Pensão São João da Praça 45
Pousada de
Juventude de Lisboa
Residencial 13° da Sorte
Residencial Alegria
Residencial
Avenida Alameda
Residencial Camões
Residencial Canadá
Residencial Dom Sancho I
Residencial Florescente
Solar dos Mouros

VIP Orion Eden
R. D
R. S
47
AC
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184
Addresses
Addresses are written in the form “Rua do Crucifixo 50–4°”, meaning the fourth
storey of no. 50, Rua do Crucifixo. The addition of e, d or r/c at the end means the
entrance is on the left (esquerda), right (direita) or on the ground floor (rés-do
chão). Don’t be unduly put off by some fairly insalubrious staircases, but do be
aware that rooms facing onto the street can often be unbearably noisy.
nineteenth century, and rumoured to have a the rooms are comfortable and air condi
secret door direct to neighbouring Rossio tioned, the bathrooms are marble-lined and
station, this is one of Lisbon’s most historic there’s an ornate TV room with period furni
and grand hotels. Despite extensive mod ture. e70.
ernization, the traditional feel has been Hotel Suíço Atlântico Rua da Glória
maintained with stacks of chandeliers, peri 3–19 t213 461 713, eh.suisso.
od furniture, mirrors and marble throughout. atlantico@grupofbarata.com. Popular
There are eighty spacious rooms, each with mid-range hotel in a good location, close to
high ceilings and colossal bathrooms. the elevador to Bairro Alto. Rooms are fairly
British artists Gilbert and George stay here standard, though some come with balconies
on their frequent Lisbon visits. e200. looking down on to seedy Rua da Glória.
Hotel International Rua da Betesga 3 The mock-baronial bar and bright breakfast
t213 240 990, f213 290 999. Two-star room are the best bits. e55.
central hotel set in a traditional building, Pensão Coimbra e Madrid Praça da
and if you get one of the – albeit small – Figueira 3–3° t213 424 808, f213 423
rooms with a balcony overlooking the city, 264. Best budget choice on the square is
you’ll not be disappointed. There’s also a this large, decently run (if faintly shabby)
bar and a friendly reception. e65. pensão, above the Pastelaria Suíça, with
Hotel Metrópole Rossio 30 t213 469 superb views of Rossio, Praça da Figueira
164, wwww.almeidahotels.com. and the castle beyond from (street-honking
Characterful turn-of-the-century hotel, with ly noisy) front-facing rooms. Some have
an airy lounge bar (and most rooms) offer their own shower or bath (e40), otherwise
ing superb views over Rossio and the cas e25.
tle. The simply furnished but spacious Pensão Portuense Rua das Portas de
rooms are comfortable, but you pay for the Santo Antão 151–153 t213 464 197,
location and the square can be pretty noisy erportuense@net.sapo.pt. Singles and
at night. e147. doubles in a family-run place that takes
Hotel Mundial Rua Dom Duarte 4 t218 good care of its guests – there’s even
842 000, wwww.hotel-mundial.pt. Internet access on request. The spacious
Central four-star high-rise, with around bathrooms are kept meticulously clean, the
three hundred rooms, at the southern edge water stays hot, and breakfast features
of the broad Largo Martim Moniz. Although crisp fresh bread and preserves. e50.
a little sterile, there’s a Moorish-inspired Pensão Residencial Gerês Calçada da
rooftop terrace and great views from the Garcia 6 t218 810 497, f218 882 006.
eighth-floor restaurant. Rooms aren’t Set on a steep side street just off Rossio,
always huge, but come with plush bath the beautifully tiled entrance hall and
rooms. A large but poor-quality buffet chunky wood doors set the tone for one of
breakfast is included. Disabled access. the more characterful central options. The
e150. simple rooms of varying sizes are minimally
Hotel Portugal Rua João das Regras 4 furnished, though all have TVs; some have a
t218 877 581, f218 867 343. Amazing bathroom. e55.
old hotel that has suffered an appalling con Residencial Florescente Rua das Portas
version, with its high decorative ceilings de Santo Antão 99 t213 426 609, f213
chopped up by wall partitions. Nevertheless, 427 733. The best guesthouse on this
185
pedestrianized street. There’s a large selec convent from the south-facing rooms, some
tion of rooms across four floors (some with of which have terraces. Breakfast (included
TV and small bathroom) so if you don’t like in the price) is taken on the fourth-floor ter
the look of the room you’re shown – and race, and private parking is available. To get
some are very cramped – ask about alter there, head north from Largo da Graça, tak
natives. Be warned that street-facing rooms ing the first left into Rua Damasceno
can be noisy. Breakfast is included. e70. Monteiro – Calçada do Monte is the first
VIP Orion Eden Praça dos Restauradores right. e120.
18–24 t213 216 600, wwww. Palácio Belmonte Pateo Dom Fradique
viphotels.com. Compact studios and apart 14 t218 862 582, wwww
ments sleeping up to four people are avail .palaciobelmonte.com. If you have over
able within the impressively converted Eden e500 a night to burn for a special occa
cinema. They are somewhat cheaply fur sion, check availability at this private club
nished, but get a ninth-floor apartment with which rents out rooms. A highly atmospher
a balcony and you’ll have the best views and ic fifteenth-century palace, the property
be just below the superb breakfast bar and essentially retains its original decor apart
rooftop pool. All studios come with dish from the odd designer bathroom. Dazzling
washers, microwaves and satellite TV. eighteenth-century azulejos, soaring ceilings
Disabled access. e125 for studios and dou and wood floors set the tone for the six
ble apartments, e180 for larger apartments. individual suites, including one set in a
tower with a 360-degree view of Alfama.
There’s also a small garden with plunge
The Alfama pool and terrace. Upwards of e500.
Pensão São João da Praça Rua de São Pensão Ninho das Águias Costa do
João da Praça 97–2° t218 862 591, Castelo 74 t218 854 070. Beautifully
f218 881 378. Attractive town house with sited in its own view-laden terrace-garden,
street-facing wrought-iron balconies, though on the street looping around and below the
the rooms are slightly shabby. It’s a quiet castle, this is justifiably one of the most
and friendly if simple choice with a range of popular budget places in the city. Climb up
rooms (all rates including breakfast), from the staircase and past the birdcages.
e40 with shared bathroom up to e55 with Rooms are spartan but bright. Book in
bath. advance, though, as there are just fourteen
Sé Guest House Rua de São João da rooms. e45 for en-suite facilities, otherwise
Praça 97–1° t218 864 400, f263 271 e40.
612. Run by a welcoming family from Solar do Castelo Rua das Cozinhas 2
Mozambique (who speak good English), this t218 870 909, wwww.heritage.pt. A
beautifully done-up nineteenth-century town beautifully renovated eighteenth-century
house features wooden floors and bright, mansion abutting the castle walls on the
airy rooms with TVs and minibars. Despite site of the former palace kitchens, parts of
the communal bathrooms, it has a more which remain. Just fourteen rooms cluster
upmarket feel than the Pensão São João da found a tranquil inner courtyard, where you
Praça in the same building. A substantial can enjoy a vast buffet breakfast. It’s not
breakfast included in the price; e60. cheap and rooms aren’t enormous, but
most boast balconies overlooking the castle
grounds, and service is second to none.
Castelo, Mouraria e215.
Solar dos Mouros Rua do Milagre de
and Graça Santo António 6 t218 854 960,
Albergaria Senhora do Monte Calçada wwww.solardosmouros.pt. A tall, recently
do Monte 39 t218 866 002, renovated town house done out in a con
esenhoradomonte@hotmail.com. temporary style that won’t appeal to all
Comfortable, modern hotel in a beautiful tastes, but each of the eight rooms offers
location with views of the castle and Graça superb vistas of river or the castle, and
186
there’s plenty of modern art to enjoy if you most are reasonably large with TVs, though
tire of the view. e200. those right at the top are a little cramped,
and avoid those without windows. e30.
Pensão Luar Rua das Gáveas 101–1°

Cais do Sodré t213 460 949. Polished interior and
decently furnished rooms (with and without
and Chiado shower), which are comfortable but varying
Hotel Borges Rua Garrett 108 t213 461 in size, so ask to see first. Don’t expect a
951, f213 426 617. In a prime spot on quiet night as this is right in the heart of the
Chiado’s main street, this traditional and nightlife. e40.
elegantly furnished hotel is very popular. Residencial Camões Trav. do Poço da
The rooms themselves are plain and aren’t Cidade 38–1° t213 467 510, f213 464
huge but are good value. Breakfast includ 048. Small rooms, the best with balconies
ed. e65. (others are somewhat gloomy), right in the
Hotel Lisboa Regency Chiado Rua Nova heart of the Bairro Alto – so expect lots of
do Almada 114 t213 256 100, noise, especially at weekends. A superb
wwww.regency-hotels-resorts.com. For breakfast is provided (April–Oct only) in a
style and modern flare it would be hard to pleasant dining room, and the English-
find a better central hotel. Designed by speaking owners are very friendly. e45, or
Álvaro Siza Viera – the architect responsible e35 with shared bath.
for the Chiado redevelopment – and with
Oriental-inspired interior decor by the highly
rated Portuguese designer Pedro Espírito Princípe Real
Santo, the Lisboa Regency is spacious and
uncluttered. Orange segment-shaped win and around
dows give glimpses of Chiado in one direc Casa de São Mamede Rua da Escola
tion and the whole city in the other. The Politécnica 159 t213 963 166, f213
cheapest rooms lack much of an outlook, 951 896. On a busy street north of Praça
but the best ones have terraces with stun do Prinçipe Real, this is a superb seven
ning views towards the castle – a view you teenth-century town house with period fit
get from the bar terrace too. All rooms have tings, bright breakfast room and even a
fax points and modems. e154. grand stained-glass window. Rooms are
rather ordinary, but all are equipped with TV.
e75.
The Bairro Alto Pensão Londres Rua Dom Pedro V 53
Hotel Anjo Azul Rua Luz Soriano 75 t213 462 203, f213 465 682.
t213 478 069, eanjoazul@mail Wonderful old building with high ceilings
.telepac.pt. The city’s first gay hotel, the and pleasant enough rooms spread across
“Blue Angel” is set in a lovely blue-tiled a couple of floors. Some come with tiny
town house right in the heart of the area’s bathrooms (e70), though others without are
nightlife. There are just twelve simple but much cheaper (e42), and breakfast is
attractive rooms (e30), some with en-suite included. It has a reputation as a gay-
facilities (e40), and very helpful staff. friendly hotel, though not exclusively so.
Pensão Duque Calçada do Duque 53
t213 463 444. Set on steep steps off
Largo T. Coelho, heading down to Rossio, São Bento, Estrela
this basic but decent choice is clear of the
nightlife noise, with shared bathrooms.
and Lapa
e30. As Janelas Verdes Rua das Janelas
Pensão Globo Rua do Teixeira 37 t213 Verdes 47 t213 218 200, wwww
462 279. Attractive house in a relatively .heritage.pt. Highly recommended, this dis
quiet street, bang in the middle of the Bairro creet, eighteenth-century town house,
Alto. Rooms are varied: all are simple and where Eça de Queirós wrote Os Maios, is
187
just metres from the Museu de Arte Antiga. Designed in the 1940s by influential archi
Well-proportioned rooms come with marble tect Cassiano Branco, this is a characterful
bathrooms, period furnishings and pictures, option with good-sized rooms. It doesn’t
and breakfast is served in the delightful look much from the outside, but the marble-
walled garden. Top-floor rooms command clad bathrooms and a classic Art
spectacular river views. Advance booking Deco interior have been declared of national
recommended. e250. architectural importance. A superb buffet
Lapa Palace Rua do Pau da Bandeira 4 breakfast is included. e180.
t213 949 494, wwww.orient Hotel Dom Carlos Avda Duque de Loulé
-express.com. A stunning nineteenth-cen 121 t213 512 590, wwww
tury mansion set in its own lush gardens, .domcarloshoteis.com. Decent three-star
with dramatic vistas over the Tejo. Rooms just off Praça Marquês de Pombal, with fair-
are luxurious, and those in the Palace Wing sized rooms. Some overlook the neighbour
are each decorated in a different style, from ing police and fire stations, which can add
Classical to Art Deco. In summer, grills are to the noise, but there’s a downstairs bar
served by the outdoor pool. There’s also a and the price includes a good buffet break
health club, disabled access and a list of fast. e120.
facilities as long as your arm, from babysit Hotel Flamingo Rua Castilho 41 t213
ting to banqueting. e375. 841 200, ehotelflamingo@netcabo.pt.
Residencial York House Rua das Friendly, slightly faded hotel, but with an
Janelas Verdes 32 t213 962 435, appealing atmosphere, just west of the
wwww.yorkhouselisboa.com. Located in avenue. Small rooms have cable TV and
a sixteenth-century convent (and hidden minibars. The downstairs bar looks like the
from the main street by high walls), rooms setting for a US sitcom. e70.
here come with rugs, tiles and four-poster Hotel Lisboa Plaza Trav. Salitre 7 t213
beds. The best are grouped around a beau 218 200, wwww.heritage.pt. Just off
tiful interior courtyard, where drinks and Avenida da Liberdade, this bright, polished,
meals are served in summer, and there’s a four-star hotel is a real treat – dried flowers
highly rated restaurant. Advance bookings everywhere, marble bathrooms, bar, restau
recommended. e200. rant (good breakfast included), and views of
the botanical garden from the rear rooms.
Disabled access. Recommended. e156.
Alcântara and the Hotel Veneza Avda da Liberdade 189
t213 522 618, wwww.3khoteis.com.
riverfront Built in 1886, the distinguishing feature of
Pestana Palace Hotel Rua Jau 54 t213 this former town house is an ornate stair
615 600, wwww.pestana.com. Set in an case, now flanked by modern murals of
early twentieth-century palace full of price Lisbon. The smallish rooms are less individ
less works of art, most rooms at this five- ually styled, with dull furnishings. However,
star hotel are in tasteful modern wings that the price includes a good buffet breakfast.
stretch either side of UNESCO World Disabled access. e130.
Heritage gardens. Most rooms have large Residencial 13° da Sorte Rua do Salitre
terraces and lie a short walk from a sushi 13 t213 531 851, f213 956 946. Its
bar, a sunken outdoor pool with a fountain name translates roughly as “Lucky 13” and
to swim out to, and an inside pool and the owners are indeed fortunate with this
health club. Price includes a vast breakfast well-run and good value guesthouse set in
in the former ballroom. e300. a tall, traditional building. Spacious rooms
are spread across five floors, each with a TV
and minibar; breakfast not included. e45.
Avenida da Liberdade Residencial Alegria Praça da Alegria 12
and around t213 220 670, email@alegrianet.com.
Great position, facing the leafy Praça da
Hotel Britania Rua Rodrigues Sampaio Alegria (“Happy Square”) and featuring spa-
17 t213 155 016, wwww.heritage.pt.
188
cious, spotless rooms with TVs. e40. antiques, old masters and overly attentive
Residencial Dom Sancho I Avda da staff. There’s also a fitness centre, spa and
Liberdade 202–2° t213 548 648, highly rated restaurant. Disabled access.
edsancho@iol.pt. One of the few inex e450.

pensive options right on the avenue and, Sana Classic Rex Hotel Rua Castilho
what’s more, set in a grand old mansion 169 t213 882 161,
with high ceilings and decorative cornices – wwww.sanahotels.com. One of the less
though, as you’d expect, the front rooms outrageously priced hotels in this neck of
are noisy. The large, air-conditioned rooms the woods, with an in-house restaurant and
come with TVs; breakfast (included in the small but well-equipped rooms. The best
price) is served in a back room. e70. are at the front, sporting large balconies
Tivoli Lisboa Avda da Liberdade 185 overlooking Parque Eduardo VII. e150.
t213 198 900, wwww.tivolihotels.com.
Flash five-star hotel with cavernous lobby-
lounge, three hundred soundproofed rooms, Northern Lisbon
an outdoor pool, tennis courts and garden. Residencial Canadá Avda Defensores de
Breakfast is included and there’s a top-floor Chaves 35 1–4° t213 513 480, f213
grill-restaurant with superb city views. 542 922. Close to the main bus station, this
Disabled access. e195. is excellent value for money, with biggish,
airy rooms with TVs, kept immaculate by a
bevy of charming ladies. There’s also a
Around Parque sunny breakfast room and lounge area.
e65.
Eduardo VII Residencial Pascoal de Melo Rua
Hotel Miraparque Avda Sidónio Pais 12 Pascoal de Melo 127–131 t213 577
t213 524 286, emiraparque 639, f213 144 555. A spotless three-star
@esoterica.pt. Housed in an attractive residencial near Largo Dona Estefânia, with
building overlooking Parque Eduardo VII, the friendly staff and an azulejo-lined entry hall.
Miraparque is pleasantly old-fashioned, Rooms are neat and come with TV and bal
though the reception staff can be a bit cony. e35.
brusque. All rooms come with TV, and
there’s a decent bar and restaurant. e95.
Hotel Real Parque Avda Luís Bívar 67 Sintra
t213 199 000, wwww.realparque.pt. See map on p.156
Modern four-star in a quiet part of town, a
short walk from Parque Eduardo VII and the Hotel Central Praça da República 35,
Gulbenkian (and from Picoas and Parque Sintra-Vila, t219 230 964
metros), complete with its own restaurant, ehotelcentral@netcabo.pt. Comfortable
coffee shop and bar. Rooms are spacious nineteenth-century two-star hotel, opposite
and individually furnished in contemporary the Palácio Nacional, with polished wood
style. Disabled access. e150. and tiles throughout. Triple rooms are avail
Residencial Avenida Alameda Avda able, too, and there are good off-season
Sidónio Pais 4 t213 532 186, f213 discounts. Breakfast is included. e75.
526 703. Very pleasant three-star residen Lawrence’s Hotel Rua Consigliéri
cial with air-conditioned rooms, all with park Pedroso 38–40, Sintra-Vila t219 105
views; breakfast included. e60. 500, elawrences@mail.telepac.pt. This
Ritz Four Seasons Rua Rodrigo da lays claim to being the oldest hotel in
Fonseca 88 t213 811 400, Portugal, dating from 1764 (and claiming a
wwww.fourseasons.com. This vast build visit from Byron) but reopened as a five-star
ing is one of the grandest – and most under Dutch ownership in 1999. There are
expensive – hotels in the city, with huge, just eleven spacious rooms and five suites,
airy rooms, terraces overlooking the park, all simply though elegantly furnished, and
and public areas replete with marble, plenty of comfortable communal areas,
189
including a highly rated restaurant which 050, wwww.hotelarribas.com. This mod

serves traditional but pricey Portuguese cui ern three-star hotel is plonked ungraciously
sine. The price includes a substantial buffet at the north end of the beach, the only
breakfast. The hotel can also organize golf building right on the sands. Rooms are
ing packages. e240. enormous and those with a sea view are
Palácio de Seteais Rua Barbosa du hard to fault. There are also sea-water
Bocage 8 t219 233 200, wwww. swimming pools, a restaurant and café
tivolihotels.com. The “Seven Sighs”, one terrace with more great views. e105.
of the most elegant palaces in Portugal, is Pousada Dona Maria I Largo do Palácio,
on the Monserrate road, a few minutes’ Palácio de Queluz, Queluz t214 356
drive from the centre of Sintra-Vila. 158, wwww.pousadas.pt. The pink-faced
Completed in the last years of the eigh pousada (government-run inn), with its dis
teenth century and maintained today as an tinctive clock tower, gives you the chance to
immensely luxurious hotel, it even boasts a stay in an annexe of one of Lisbon’s grand
majestic Neoclassical arch. The large rooms est palaces. It was once used as the palace
have period furniture and superior furnish staff quarters, and they must have lived
ings – they’re very popular with honey very comfortably: the rooms are huge and
mooners – while the landscaped garden the furnishings are lavish, with ornate
has its own superb pool. e285. drapes and big comfy chairs. Disabled
Pensão Nova Sintra Largo Afonso access. e170.
d’Albuquerque 25, Estefânia t219 230
220, f219 107 033. Very smart pensão in
a big mansion, whose elevated terrace-café Cascais
overlooks a busy street. The modern rooms See map on p.156
all have TV and shiny marble floors, and a
good breakfast is included. e70. Farol Design Hotel Avda Rei Humberto II
Piela’s Rua João de Deus 70–72, due to de Italia, Cascais t214 823 490,
move to Avda Desiderio Cambournac wwww.cascais.org. Right on the seafront,
1–3, Estefânia in 2004. t219 241 691. this is an ideal option if you like both tradi
The ever-popular budget accommodation tional and contemporary architecture. A new
above a café right by the station is due to designer wing has been welded onto a six
relocate to a swish, renovated town house teenth-century villa, and the decor com
above a cybercafé; phone ahead to check bines wood and marble with modern steel
the latest with the welcoming English- and glass. The best rooms have sea views
speaking proprietor; the telephone number and terraces, and there’s also a bar, restau
and room prices will stay the same (e35 rant and outdoor pool facing the rocks. Staff
with shared facilities, e55 for larger rooms wear alarming, surgeon-like uniforms.
with bath). e240.
Residencial Sintra Trav. dos Alvares, Hotel Albatroz Rua Frederico Arouca
São Pedro t & f219 230 738, 100, Cascais t214 847 380,
epensao.residencial.sintra@clix.pt. wwww.albatrozhotels.com. Built in the
Rambling old pensão with soaring ceilings, nineteenth century as a royal retreat, sea
wooden floors and oodles of character. side hotels don’t come much grander than
There’s a substantial garden with a swim this – one of the best in the region, with
ming pool and the giant rooms can easily glorious views from some rooms (for which
accommodate extra beds – so it’s great for you pay extra) and top-of-the-range facili
families. You’ll need to book ahead in sum ties. There’s a lovely swimming pool on the
mer. e90. ocean terrace, and a restaurant. Big winter
reductions apply. e310.
Hotel Baía Avda C. Grande Guerra,
The Sintra coast Cascais t214 831 033, f214 831 095,
wwww.hotelbaia.com. Large seafront
and Queluz hotel boasting 113 rooms; front ones have
Hotel Arribas Praia Grande t219 289
190
balconies overlooking the beach and har
bour. There’s a great rooftop terrace com
South of the Tejo
plete with a covered pool, and a downstairs Pensão Real Rua Mestre Manuel 18,
Hostels ACCOMMODATION
restaurant. e120. Caparica t212 918 870, f212 918 879.

Solar Dom Carlos Rua Latino Coelho 8, Friendly and reasonable central pensão, a
Cascais t214 828 115, wwww. few minutes’ walk from the beach, just off
solardomcarlos.com. The best affordable Rua dos Pescadores. Small but pleasant
place in town, set in a sixteenth-century rooms come with TV and bath and some
mansion on a quiet backstreet in the pretty have balconies and distant sea views. The
western side of Cascais. Dom Carlos once price includes breakfast. e75.
stayed here, hence the royal chapel, which Sana Park Avda 25 de Abril, Sesimbra
still survives. There are cool tiles through t212 289 000, wwww.sanahotels.com.
out, attractive rooms, a garden, and the The best upmarket choice in Sesimbra, right
price includes breakfast. e60. on the seafront. The plush rooms have TVs
Village Cascais Rua Frie Nicolau de and baths, and there’s a sauna and pool
Oliveira t214 826 000, wwww. (open to non-guests), a restaurant and
vilagale.pt. A large, modern package hotel groovy rooftop bar. e120, or e150 for sea
occupying a superb position near an views.
unspoilt part of the coast. Good for families,
it has palm-studded grounds, spacious
rooms with satellite TV, a bar and restau
rant. e155.
Hostels
The central booking office for t212 943 491, ealmada@ movi
Portugal’s youth hostels (pou jovem.pt. On the south side of the Tejo –
sadas de juventude) is with terrific views back over Lisbon – this is
Movijovem, near metro not particularly convenient for sightseeing
Saldanha at Avda Duque de in the city, but is within striking distance of
Ávila 137 (t217 232 100, the Caparica beaches and Cacilhas. It has
wwww.pousadasjuventude.pt). a games room, disabled access and
Internet facilities. Over twenty four-bedded
A youth hostel card is required
dorms at e12.50 per person, and thirteen
for all Portuguese hostels, but if
twin-bedded rooms with their own toilets at
you don’t have one you can buy
e35 per room; also apartments for e60.
one on your first night’s stay. Pousada de Juventude de Lisboa Rua
Andrade Corvo 46 t213 532 696, elis
Lisboa Parque das Nações Rua de boa@movijovem.pt. Map pp.182–183.
Moscavide 47–101, Parque das Nações This is the main city hostel, set in a ram
t218 920 890, eliboaparque bling old building by metro Picoas, with a
@movijovem.pt. Map p.150. About five small bar (open 6pm to midnight), canteen
minutes’ walk northeast of the Torre Vasco (reserve meals in advance; served 1–2pm
da Gama, towards the bridge, this smart, & 7–8pm), TV room and disabled access.
modern youth hostel has a pool table and Thirty rooms sleeping four or six people
disabled access. Ten double rooms at e35 (with shared bathrooms) for e15 per per
per room and eighteen four-bedded dorms son; or doubles with private shower for
at e12.50 per person. e42 per room. The price includes break
Pousada de Juventude da Almada fast.
Quinta do Bucelinho, Pragal, Almada
191
Pousada de Juventude de Sintra Santa the station via Sintra-Vila (roughly every
Eufémia, São Pedro de Sintra t219 241 40min) and walk the remaining 2km from
210, esintra@movijovem.pt. Map p.156. there. Meals are served if you can’t face the
ACCOMMODATION Campsites
Sintra’s rustic but comfortable youth hostel hike down into town and back. Beds in the
is 6km from the train station, so it’s best if dorm cost from e10.50, double rooms
you catch local bus #435 to São Pedro from from e25.
Campsites
There are some decent camp Orbitur Costa de Caparica Avda Afonso
sites within commuting distance de Albuquerque, Quinta de St António,
of Lisbon, including near the Monte de Caparica t212 901 366,
Atlantic beaches of Costa da einfo@orbitur.pt. Map p.173. One of the
Caparica, Guincho and Praia few campsites in Caparica open to non
Grande, or near beaches south members, with good facilities including
tennis courts, but it’s not for those looking
of the Tejo. Expect to pay
for solitude.
around e5 per person (half
Orbitur Guincho Lugar da Areia,
price for children) and from e5
Guincho t214 870 450,
per tent in high season.The einfo@orbitur.pt. Map p.163. Close to
Portuguese camping organiza Guincho beach among the pine trees, and
tion is Orbitur served by bus from Cascais. Has tennis
(wwww.orbitur.pt). Members courts, mini-market and café, with bunga
get a ten percent discount at lows and caravans for rent too.
their campsites in the Lisbon Outão Praia de Albarquel t265 238
region. Check out 318. Map p.173. Simple campsite set
wwww.roteiro-campista.pt for amongst trees, close to the small Praia de
details of other campsites. Albarquel, 5km east of Pontinho da
Arrábida.
Campimeco Praia das Bicas, 2km Parque Municipal de Campismo
northwest of Aldeio do Meco t219 747 Estrada da Circunvalação, Parque
669, f219 748 728. Map p.173. Florestal de Monsanto t217 623 100,
Upmarket campsite short walk from Praia f217 623 106. The main city campsite is
das Bicas, with tennis courts, restaurant, very well equipped, complete with bunga
pool and mini-market. lows, a swimming pool and shops. It lies
Camping Praia Grande Praia Grande 6km west of the centre, with the entrance
t219 290 581, ewondertur@ip.pt. on the park’s west side. Bus #43 from
Map p.163. Attractively sited campsite Praça da Figueira via Belém.
with decent facilities less than 1km from
the beach at Praia Grande.
192
Essentials
Contents Essentials
Essentials
Contents Essentials
195
Arrival
Whatever your point of arrival, it is easy to north, Madrid or Paris, you’ll arrive at
get to central Lisbon. The airport is right Santa Apolónia station (see p.94); on
ESSENTIALS
on the edge of the city and is well served the Gaivota metro line; or else take bus
by buses and taxis, and the city’s train #9, #39, #46 or #90 to Praça dos
stations are all centrally located with Restauradores or Rossio. Most trains also
direct access to the metro. The two main call at Oriente station at Parque das
bus stations are also close to metro stops. Nações, on the red Oriente metro line.
This station is more convenient for the
By air airport or for the north and east of Lisbon.
The aeroporto da Portela (T 218 413 Trains from the south of Portugal termi
700) is just twenty minutes north of the nate at Barreiro station south of the Tejo
city centre and has a tourist office (daily river. From here, you catch a ferry (includ
6am–midnight, T 218 494 323), a 24 ed in the price of the train ticket) to
hour exchange bureau, currency Estação Fluvial (on the Gaivota metro
exchange machines, ATMs and left-lug line), next to Praça do Comércio. Buses
gage facilities. #9, #39, #80 and #90 run up to Rossio.
The easiest way to get into the centre is Various bus companies have terminals
by taxi; a journey to Rossio should cost scattered about the city, but the main one
E7–10. Prepaid taxi vouchers are also is at Avenida João Crisóstomo a short
available from the tourist office but, apart walk from metro Saldanha.This terminal is
from helping you to queue-jump, don’t also where most international bus servic
work out any cheaper. es arrive. The main national carrier is
Alternatively, catch the #91 Aerobus Rede Expressos ( T 707 223 344,
( T 966 298 558) which departs every W www.rede-expressos.pt). Many bus
twenty minutes (daily 7.45am–8.45pm) services also stop at the Oriente station
from outside the terminal, and runs to at Parque das Nações on the Oriente
Praça do Marquês de Pombal, Praça dos metro line.
Restauradores, Rossio, Praça do Comér Apart from Saturday afternoons and
cio and Cais do Sodré train station. Rides Sundays, when the city is quiet, driving
are free for TAP passengers (just show round Lisbon can take years off your life
your boarding card). Otherwise on-board and, particularly at the beginning or end
tickets also give you one day’s travel on of public holiday weekends, is to be
the city’s buses and trams for E2.35 or avoided at all costs, though it is useful to
three day’s travel for E5.65. Local buses hire a car to see the outlying sights (see
(#44 or #45) leave from outside the ter p.200 for car rental companies).
minal to Praça dos Restauradores and Parking is very difficult in central Lis
Cais do Sodré station (every 10–15min, bon. Pay-and-display spots get snapped
E1), though these are less convenient if up quickly and some of the local unem
you have a lot of luggage. ployed get by on tips for guiding drivers
Direct buses to Estoril and Cascais (tak into empty spots; scratches have been
ing 30–40min) depart from the airport known to appear suddenly on cars whose
hourly (on the hour from 7am, last depar drivers do not leave tips, so you’d be bet
ture 10.30pm), costing E7 ( W www. ter off heading for an official car park, for
scotturb.com). which you can expect to pay around E8
per day. Wherever you park, do not leave
valuables inside: the break-in rate in the
By road and rail city centre is extremely high.
Long-distance trains are run by CP (fare
and timetable information on T 808 208
208, W www.cp.pt). Coming from the
Contents Essentials
196
Information
The Portuguese Tourist Office is in tourism.com); Cascais Turismo (see

Praça dos Restauradores (daily map, p.167; daily; T 214 868 204);
9am–8pm; T 213 463 314, W www.
ESSENTIALS
Caparica Turismo (Avda da Liberdade

portugalinsite.pt), and is useful for gen 18, just off the main square; closed Sat
eral information. However, far more afternoon, all day Sunday and 1–2pm;
helpful is the Lisbon Welcome Centre at T 212 900 071); and Sesimbra Turis
Rua do Arsenal 15, by Praça do Comér mo (Avda dos Náufragos, on the
cio, near the riverfront (see map on p.68; seafront; daily; T 212 288 540).
daily 9am–8pm; T 210 312 810, Our maps will guide you around the
W www.atl-turismolisboa.pt), which can city; Michelin’s Lisboa Planta Roteiro ,
supply accommodation lists, bus available in most good Lisbon book
timetables and maps. shops, is the closest you’ll find to an A–Z
There are also tourist offices at the air of the city.
port and at Santa Apolónia station which The best listings magazine is Agenda
can help you find accommodation, and a Cultural, a free monthly produced by the
few smaller “Ask Me” kiosks dotted town hall, which details current exhibi
around town, like the ones in Largo Mar tions and shows (in Portuguese). Follow
tim Moniz, on Rua Augusta, and within me Lisboa is a watered-down English-
the Castelo de São Jorge (summer only). language version produced by the local
A free telephone information line dis tourist office. It also publishes Lisboa
penses basic information in English Step by Step, a quarterly magazine with
(Mon–Sat 9am–midnight, Sun articles about the area and a brief listings
9am–8pm, T 800 296 296). section. All publications are available
There are also tourist offices in all the from the tourist offices and larger hotels.
main daytrip destinations, with details as For exhibitions and concerts, pick up a
follows: Sintra Turismo (see map, schedule of events from the reception
p.156; daily 9am–7pm; T 219 231 157, desks at the Gulbenkian Foundation (see
W www.cm-sintra.pt); Estoril Turismo p.192) or the Cultural Centre in Belém
(opposite the train station; daily; T 214 (see p.131).
663 813, W www.estorilcoast
City transport
Central Lisbon is compact enough to undoubtedly the most fun way to get
explore on foot, but don’t be fooled by around. Tram, bus and elevador stops are
the apparent closeness of sights and indicated by a sign marked “paragem”,
streets as they appear on two- which carries route details.
dimensional maps. There are some very The most efficient way to get around,
steep hills to negotiate, although the however, is on the metro, with stations
city’s quirky elevadores (funicular rail located close to most of the main sights.
ways) will save you the steepest climbs Suburban trains run from Rossio station
around the Bairro Alto and Avenida da out to Sintra and Queluz and from Cais
Liberdade. Elsewhere Lisbon’s trams do Sodré station to Belém, Estoril and
(electricos) ply the narrow streets around Cascais, while ferries (T 218 820 348,
the Alfama and beyond. They’re hardly W www.transtejo.pt) link Lisbon to Cacil
the fastest form of transport (the modern has, with bus connections to the beach
tram to Belém being the exception) but, resort of Caparica. They cross the Rio
along with the elevadores , they are Tejo from various departure points and
Contents Essentials
197
Useful bus routes

#1 Cais do Sodré to Charneca via Lumiar, the Baixa, Avda da Liberdade, Picoas (for
the youth hostel), Saldanha (for the bus station), Campo Pequeno and Campo
Grande.
ESSENTIALS
#27 Marquês de Pombal to Belém via Rato, Estrela, Lapa and Alcântara.
#37 Praça da Figueira to Castelo de São Jorge via the Sé and Alfama.
#44/45 Outside the airport to Cais do Sodré via Entrecampos, Saldanha, Marquês
de Pombal, Avda da Liberdade and the Baixa.
#46 Santa Apolónia station to near Palácio dos Marquêses de Fronteira via Praça
do Comércio, the Baixa, Avda da Liberdade, Praça Marquês de Pombal and the
Fundação Gulbenkian.
are worth taking for the terrific views of you think you’re going to use the metro a
Lisbon alone. lot, buy a bilhete diário (one-day metro
pass; E1.40). Seven-day passes cost
Tickets and E4.90.
travel passes
It’s possible just to buy a ticket each time
Buses, trams
you ride, but tickets bought in advance or and elevadores
a travel pass can save you money. City trams and buses (daily 6am–mid
The best-value pass is the one-day Bil night) are operated by the public
hete Turístico (E2.75) which allows transport company Carris (T 213 613
unlimited travel on buses, trams, the 000, W www.carris.pt). Buses (autocar
metro and elevadores until midnight of ros ) run just about everywhere in the
the same day. The Passe Turístico Lisbon area – the most useful ones are
(E9.95 for 4 days, E14.10 for 7 days) is outlined in the box above.
also good value and is obtainable – like Trams (eléctricos) run on five routes,
the one-day passes – from the kiosks which are marked on the chapter maps.
next to the Elevador Santa Justa, in Praça Ascending some of the steepest urban
da Figueira, and inside Restauradores gradients in the world, most are worth
metro station, among other places. taking for the ride alone, especially the
If you’re planning some intensive sight cross-city tram #28 (see p.91). Another
seeing, the Cartão Lisboa (E12.75 for 1 picturesque route is taken by #12, which
day, E21.50 for 2 days, or E26.55 for 3 circles the castle area east of the city
days) is a good buy. The card entitles you centre, via Praça da Figueira and Largo
to unlimited rides on buses, trams, ele Martim Moniz. Other useful routes are
vadores, the metro and Art Shuttle tours taken by the air-conditioned “supertram”
(see p.198), as well as entry to or dis #15 from Praça da Figueira to Belém
counts on around 25 museums. It’s (signed Algés), and #18, which runs from
available from all the main tourist offices, Rua da Alfândega via Praça do Comércio
including the one in the airport. to the Palácio da Ajuda. The remaining
route, #25, runs from Rua da Alfândega
The metro to Campo Ourique via Cais do Sodré,
Lisbon’s efficient metro (see map on Lapa and Estrela (see p.81).
backflap) – the Metropolitano – (daily Also particular to Lisbon are the city’s
6.30–1am; T 213 558 457, four elevadores – three funicular rail
W www.metrolisboa.pt) is the best way of ways offering quick access to the heights
reaching the city’s main sights, with of the Bairro Alto (see p.106) and to the
trains every few minutes. Tickets cost eastern side of Avenida da Liberdade
E0.65 per journey, or E5.10 for a ten- (p.137); and one giant lift, the Elevador
ticket caderneta – sold at all stations. If da Santa Justa (see p.69).
Contents Essentials
198
Sightseeing tours
Open-top bus tour The one-hour “Circuito Tejo” (hourly 11am–4pm; E13, ticket
also valid on public transport) takes passengers around Lisbon’s principal sights; a
day-ticket allows you to get on and off whenever you want. The “Oriente Express”
ESSENTIALS
tour departs three times daily to Parque das Nações (see p.150) for the same price.
Both tours depart from Praça do Comércio. (Information T 966 298 558.)
Tourist tram tour The “Circuito Colinas” (Hills Tour) takes passengers on a ninety-
minute ride in an early twentieth-century tram (hourly from 9am; E16), departing
from Praça do Comércio and touring around Alfama, Chiado and São Bento.
(Information T 966 298 558.)
Art Shuttle Hop-on hop-off minibus tours that visit Lisbon’s main sites every 15
minutes or so (May–Sept; E6 for 12 hours, E12 for 24 hrs). Reservations on T213
959 818, W www.artshuttle.net.
River cruises Two-and-a-half-hour cruises along the Tejo depart from Praça do
Comércio’s Estação Fluvial (daily at 11am & 3pm), stopping at Parque das Nações
(11.45am and 3.45pm, though only when tides permit) and Belém (1pm and 5pm).
The price (E15) includes a drink and commentary, and tickets are valid for returns
on the later boats. Reservations on T 218 820 348.
The same tickets are valid on buses, an average ride running to E6. Fares
trams and elevadores (though not on the are higher from 10pm to 6am, at week
metro or ferries), and can be bought ends and on public holidays, when the
either individually (E1 per ride) or in minimum charge is E2.25. All taxis
advance (E1, valid for two journeys) from have meters, which should be switched
kiosks in Praça do Comércio, Praça da on, and tips are not expected. Outside
Figueira and other bus terminals. Tickets the rush hour taxis can be flagged down
are validated by punching them into the quite easily in the street or, alternatively,
machine next to the driver when you head for one of the ranks such as those
board. Note that the modern tram #15 outside the main train stations. At night
has an automatic ticket machine on it’s usually best to get a restaurant to
board and does not issue change. phone a taxi for you (which attracts an
extra charge of E0.80), or try Rádio
Taxis Taxis T 218 119 000, Autocoope
Lisbon’s cream taxis are inexpensive, T 217 932 756 or Teletáxi T 218 111
with a minimum charge of E1.90 and 100.
Festivals and events
Lisbon’s calendar is punctuated by vari Carnival

ous cultural festivals and events; details The Carnival has been revived recently
can be obtained from the main tourist with Brazilian-style parades and
offices. The following is a rundown of the costumes, mainly at Parque das Nações
main ones. in February or March.
The Fado/Harbour Festival Santos Populares

An innovative music festival held in June is known for its street-partying to
February combining fado with music from celebrate the saints’ days – António
other port cities from around the world: (June 13), João (June 24) and Pedro
New Orleans’ jazz and rebetika from (June 29). Celebrations for each begin on
Athens have featured in recent years. the evening before the actual day. The
Contents Essentials
199
main festival is for Santo António, a T219 243 518, Wwww.cm-sintra.pt.

public holiday when the whole city is
decked out in coloured ribbons, with pots Jazz Numa Noite de Verão
of lucky basil on every window sill. There August also sees the big annual Jazz
are festivals in each district on the Numa Noite de Verão (jazz on a summer
ESSENTIALS
evening of the 12th, with a main parade night) festival at the Gulbenkian’s open-
down Avenida da Liberdade also on the air amphitheatre.
12th. The best street party is in Alfama,
with food and drinks stalls in just about The Festival dos Oceanos
every square. In Sintra, the main festa is Celebrates Lisbon’s links with the sea
for São Pedro, starting on 28 June. with a series of free events throughout
the city, including street parades, music,
Gay pride fireworks and laser displays, in August.
The increasingly popular gay pride event
(Arraial Pride) changes venues but has Festival do Vinho
recently been held at Monsanto in June. November 11 is the date for the festival
of São Martinho, when the saint’s day is
Handicrafts fair traditionally celebrated by eating
A state-run handicrafts fair, with live folk chestnuts and drinking agua pé – literally
music, is held in Estoril on the Avenida de “foot water” – the first of the year’s wine
Portugal, near the Casino in July. A harvest. The Festival do Vinho (wine
similar event occurs during the same festival) usually starts on this day,
period at FIL, the main exhibition hall at combining a formal series of tastings
the Parque das Nações, when with a cultural programme to promote
international and Portuguese regional the region’s wines.
crafts are displayed and offered for sale.
Christmas and New Year’s Eve
The Sintra Music Festival The build-up to Christmas begins in
Held in July and August this music early December with a huge Christmas
festival sees adventurous performances tree filling the centre of Praça da
by international orchestras, musicians Figueira. Distinctive hooped bolo-rei
and dance groups in parks, gardens and (dried-fruit “king cake”) appears in shops
palaces in and around Sintra, Estoril and and pastelarias. Christmas Day itself
Cascais. An offshoot of the festival are remains a family affair, with traditional
the “Noites de Bailado” held in the midnight Mass celebrated on December
gardens of the Palácio de Seteais (see 24, followed by a meal of bacalhau.
p.158) a series of ballet, dance and The best place to head for on New Year’s
operatic performances, again with top Eve is Praça do Comércio, where
international names. Tickets and fireworks light up the riverfront. There are
programmes for all performances are similar events at Cascais, and the Parque
available from the Gabinete do Sintra- das Nações also hosts a Noite Magica
Festival, Praça da República 23, Sintra (Magic Night) with a series of free events.
Directory
AIRLINES Air France, Avda 5 de Outubro 955 010); Lufthansa, aeroporto (T214
206 (T 217 900 202); Air Luxor, Avda da 245 155); TAP, Gare do Oriente, Avda
República 101 (T 210 026 800); Alitalia, Berlim (T218 958 310).
Praça Marquês de Pombal 1–5° (T213 AMERICAN EXPRESS The local agent is
536 141); British Airways, Avda da Top Tours, Avda Duque de Loulé 108
Liberdade 36–2° (T 218 486 482); T213 155 885; Mon–Fri 9.30am–1pm &
Iberia, Rua Rosa Araújo 2 (T 213 558 2.30–6.30pm.
119); KLM, Campo Grande 220b (T 217
Contents Essentials
200
Lisbon on the Internet

Specific websites are given in the text. The following are useful general sites on
Lisbon and around.
W www.atl-turismolisboa.pt The Lisbon Welcome Centre’s comprehensive site,
ESSENTIALS
with details (in English) of hotels, restaurants, news and events.

W www.areapromocianallisboa.org. The tourist board’s site for the regions
around Lisbon, including Cascais and Sintra.
W www.cm-lisboa.pt/turismo The Lisbon town hall’s site, good for details on
upcoming events.
W www.paginasamarelas.pt Portuguese version of the Yellow Pages, in
Portuguese and English.
W www.portugalinsite.pt The official Portuguese website, run by ICEP
(Investments, Trade and Tourism of Portugal), containing information about various
tourist attractions and some practical advice.
W www.portugalvirtual.pt Comprehensive directory of everything Portuguese from
hotels to shops, tourist sites to businesses.
W www.portuguesewine.com A rundown of the best ports and madeiras, and
reviews of the different wine-producing regions of Portugal.
BANKS AND EXCHANGE Usual bank Castilho 72 T213 812 430, airport
opening hours are Monday to Friday T218 463 154; Nova Rent, Largo
8.30am to 3pm. Most main branches are Monterroio Mascarenhas 9 T 213 845
located in the Baixa district and are 270.
equipped with automatic exchange CINEMAS Lisbon has dozens of cinemas,
machines for various currencies and virtually all of them showing original-
denominations. Changing cash in banks language films with Portuguese subtitles,
is easy, too, and shouldn’t attract more and ticket prices are low (around e4–5;
than E3 commission, though not all cheaper on Mondays). The tourist offices
banks offer an exchange service. should be able to tell you what’s on, or
By far the easiest way to get money in consult the listings outside the ABEP
Portugal is to use your debit or credit kiosk on the southeast corner of Praça
card to withdraw cash from any of the dos Restauradores. Most cinemas are
large number of ATM machines, called open from around midday, with last
“Multibanco”. You’ll find them all over performances at around 11pm. Among
Lisbon and you can withdraw up to E200 the most interesting art-house venues is
per day. Quarteto, Rua das Flores Lima 1 (T217
BUSES The main terminal is at Avda João 971 244; metro Entre Campos), off
Crisóstomo (see map p.141). Other bus Avenida Estados Unidos, with four
services leave from Praça de Espanha screens. The Instituto da Cinemateca
(metro Praça de Espanha) for Transportes Portuguesa, Rua Barata Salgueiro
Sul do Tejo (T 217 262 740) for (T213 596 266; metro Avenida), the
departures to Caparica, Sesimbra and national film theatre, has twice-daily
Setúbal and places south of the Tejo. shows, ranging from contemporary
CAR RENTAL Alamo/Guerin, Avda Portuguese films to silent classics, and
Alvares Cabral 45b T 213 703 400; Auto contains its own cinema museum.
Jardim, Rua Luciano Cordeiro 6 T213 Mainstream movies are shown at various
549 182, airport T 218 463 187; Avis, multiplexes around the city. The best
Campo Grande 390 T 217 547 800; and most central is the São Jorge,
Budget, Rua Castilho 167b T213 860 Avenida da Liberdade 175 (T213 103
516, airport T 218 478 803; Europcar, 400), with just three large screens.
Santa Apolónia station T 218 861 573, DISABLED TRAVELLERS The
airport T 218 401 176; Hertz, Rua Secretariado Nacional Para a Reabilitação
Contents Essentials
201
e Integração das Pessas com Deficiêcia, English and Portuguese) is a good

Avda Conde Valbom 63, T 217 929 500, resource. The centre is also home to
W www.snripd.mts.gov.pt, produces the Rede Exaequo (Wwww.ex-aequo.web.pt),
Accessible Tourism Guide in English a gay association geared towards people
featuring disabled-friendly travel agents, under 30.
ESSENTIALS
restaurants, clubs, clinics, and so on. HOSPITALS The British Hospital, Rua
Lisbon airport offers a service for Saraiva de Carvalho 49 (T 213 955 067),
wheelchair users if advance notice is has English-speaking staff and doctors
given (T213 632 044), while the Orange on call from 8.30am to 9pm.
Badge symbol is recognized for disabled INTERNET ACCESS There are lots of
car parking. The main public transport Internet points and cyber-cafés charging
company, Carris, offers an inexpensive around E1–3 per hour for Internet use.
dial-a-ride minibus service, O Serviço Useful options in each main
Especial de Transporte de Deficientes neighbourhood include: Ponto Net, above
(E1 per trip; Mon–Fri 6.30am–10pm, Sat the Lisbon Welcome Centre in Praça do
& Sun 8am–10pm; T 213 613 161, Comércio, Baixa (daily 9am–8pm; T210
W www.carris.pt), though two days’ 312 815); Web Café, Rua do Diário de
advance notice and a medical certificate Notícias 16, Bairro Alto (daily 4pm–2am;
are required. The following museums T 213 421 181); and Cyberica, Rua
have disabled access: Museu de Duques de Bragança 7, Chiado (daily
Arqueologia; Museu de Arte Popular; 11am–midnight; T 213 421 707).
Museu do Chiado; Museu dos Coches; LEFT LUGGAGE There are 24-hour
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga. lockers at the airport, the main train
ELECTRICITY Portugal uses two-pin stations and the bus station on Avda João
plugs (220v). UK appliances will work Crisóstomo, charging E2–7, depending
with a continental adaptor. on the size of the bag.
EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES LOST PROPERTY Report any loss to the
Australia, Avda da Liberdade 198–2°
tourist police station in the Foz Cultura
(metro Avenida; T213 101 500);
building in Palácio Foz, Praça dos
Canada, Avda da Liberdade 196–200,
Restauradores (daily 24hr T213 421
(metro Avenida; T 213 164 600);
634).
Ireland, Rua da Imprensa à Estrela 1–4°
MAIL Post offices (correios) are
(tram #28 to Estrela; T 213 929 440);
normally open Monday to Friday 8.30am
New Zealand, Avda António Aguiar 122
to 6.30pm. The main Lisbon office is at
(metro São Sebastião or Parque; T 213
Praça dos Restauradores 58 (T213 238
509 690); South Africa, Avda Luís Bivar
700) (see map p.172–173). Stamps
10 (metro Picoas; T 213 304 217); UK,
(selos) are sold at post offices and
Rua de São Marçal 174 (metro Rato;
anywhere that has the sign “Correio de
T213 223 649); USA, Avda das Forças
Portugal – Selos” displayed. To send a
Armadas (metro Jardim Zoológico; T217
postcard to Europe costs E0.55, or to the
273 300).
rest of the world E1.25.
EMERGENCIES Call T 112 for police,
MONEY Portugal’s currency is the euro
ambulance and fire.
(E), with notes issued in denominations
GAY AND LESBIAN The Centro
of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros,
Comunitário Gay e Lésbica de Lisboa
and coins in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10,
(Rua de São Lázaro 88 international
20 and 50 cents, and 1 and 2 euros.
T218 873 918, W www
PHARMACIES Pharmacies are open
.ilga-portugal.org; Wed–Sat
Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 3–7pm, Sat
6pm–midnight), just north of Metro
9am–1pm. Local papers carry
Martim Moniz, is Lisbon’s main gay and
information about 24hr pharmacies and
lesbian community centre. The centre
the details are posted on every pharmacy
organizes political and cultural events
door, or T118 – for details of 24hr
and its comprehensive website (in
pharmacies.
Contents Essentials
202
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Official holidays are: Restauradores (daily 9am–9.30pm) and
January 1 (New Year’s Day); from the ticket office in FNAC in the
February/March (Carnival); Good Friday; Armazéns do Chiado shopping centre
April 25 (celebrating the 1974 (see p.101), as well as from the main
revolution); May 1 (Labour Day); June 10 venues themselves.
ESSENTIALS
(Portugal Day and Camões Day); June 13 TIME Portuguese time is the same as
(Santo António); August 15 (Feast of the Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Clocks go
Assumption); October 5 (Republic Day); forward an hour in late March and back
November 1 (All Saints’ Day); December to GMT in late October.
1 (Independence Day, celebrating TIPPING Service charges are included in
independence from Spain in 1640); hotel and restaurant bills. It’s usual to
December 8 (Immaculate Conception); round up restaurant bills to the nearest
December 24–25 (Christmas). E1 or so; other than this, tips are not
TELEPHONES Calls are easily made using expected. Hotel porters, toilet attendants
card-operated public telephones called and cinema ushers do expect tips of at
credifones, which you’ll find all over least E0.50 though.
Lisbon. Phone cards cost either E3, E6 TOILETS There are very few public toilets
or E9, and are available from post in the streets, although they can be found
offices, larger newsagents and street in nearly all the museums and main
kiosks. Calls can also be made from the tourist sights (signed variously as casa de
telephone office (Mon–Fri 8am–11pm) banho, retrete, banheiro, lavabos or
next to the main post office in Praça dos “WC”), and it is not that difficult to sneak
Restauradores. Most European- into a café or restaurant if need be. Gents
subscribed mobile phones will work in are usually marked H (homens) or C
Lisbon though you may need to get (cabalheiros), and ladies M (mulheres) or
international access switched on and you S (senhoras).
are likely to be charged extra for TRAVEL AGENTS Marcus & Harting,
incoming and outgoing calls. The cheap Rossio 45–50 (T 213 224 550), is a
rate for national and international calls is good, central option for bus tickets and
applicable between 9pm and 9am general travel information. The well-
Monday to Friday, and all day weekends informed Top Tours, Avda Duque de
and public holidays. Loulé 108 ( T 213 108 800), near metro
TICKETS You can buy tickets for Lisbon’s Marquês de Pombal, also acts as an
cinemas, theatres and many concerts American Express agent. USIT Tagus, Rua
from the ABEP Kiosk (Agencia de Bilhetes Camilo Castelo Branco 20 (T213 525
para Espectaculos Públicos), see Rossio 986), specializes in discounted student
map p.172–173, on Praça dos tickets and sells ISIC cards.
Contents Essentials
Language
Contents Language
Language
Contents Language
205
The basics
LANGUAGE
English is widely spoken in most of Lisbon’s hotels and tourist restau
rants, but you will find a few words of Portuguese extremely useful if
you are travelling on public transport, or in more out of the way places.
If you have some knowledge of Spanish, you won’t have much prob
lem reading Portuguese. Understanding it when it’s spoken, though, is
a different matter: pronunciation is entirely different and at first even the
easiest words are hard to distinguish. Once you’ve started to figure out
the words it gets a lot easier very quickly.
Pronunciation
The chief difficulty with pronunciation is the lack of clarity of the
language – consonants tend to be slurred, vowels nasal and often
ignored altogether.The consonants are, at least, consistent:
C is soft before E and I, hard otherwise unless it has a cedilla – açucar (sugar) is
pronounced “assookar”.
CH is somewhat softer than in English; chá (tea) sounds like Shah.
J is pronounced like the “s” in pleasure, as is G except when it comes before a “hard”
vowel (A, O and U).
LH sounds like “lyuh” (Alcantarilha).
Q is always pronounced as a “k”.
S before a consonant or at the end of a word becomes “sh”, otherwise it’s as in
English – Sagres is pronounced “Sahgresh”.
X is also pronounced “sh”– caixa (cash desk) is pronounced “kaisha”.
Vowels are worse – flat and truncated, they’re often difficult for
English-speaking tongues to get around.The only way to learn is to
listen: accents Ã, Ô or É turn them into longer, more familiar
sounds.When two vowels come together they continue to be enun
ciated separately except in the case of El and OU – which sound
like A and long O respectively. E at the end of a word is silent unless
it has an accent, so that carne (meat) is pronounced “karn”, while café
sounds much as you’d expect. The tilde over Ã or Õ renders the
pronunciation much like the French -an and -on endings only more
nasal. More common is ÃO (as in pão, bread – são, saint – limão,
lemon), which sounds something like a strangled yelp of “Ow!” cut
off in midstream.
Words and phrases

Basics good afternoon/ boa tarde/noite
night
yes; no sim; não goodbye, adeus, até logo
hello; olá; bom dia see you later
good morning today; tomorrow hoje; amanhã
Contents Language
206
please por favor/ (week) (semana)
se faz favor It’s for one person/ É para uma pessoa
everything all right? tudo bem? two people (duas pessoas)
it’s all right/OK está bem How much is it? Quanto custa?
LANGUAGE
thank you (male/ obrigado/a May I see/ Posso ver?

female speaker) look around?
where; what onde; que Is there a cheaper Há um quarto
when; why quando; porquê room? mais barato?
how; how much como; quanto with a shower com duche
I don’t know não sei
do you know…? sabe…? Shopping
could you…? pode…?
is there…? there is há…? (silent “H”) How much is it? Quanto é?
(pronounced taying) bank; change banco; câmbio
do you have…? tem…? post office correios
I’d like… queria… (two) stamps (dois) selos
sorry; excuse me desculpe; What’s this called Como se diz isto
com licença in Portuguese? em Português?
do you speak fala Inglês? What’s that? O que é isso?
English?
I don’t understand não compreendo Days of the week
this; that este/a; esse/a
Sunday domingo
now; later agora; mais tarde
Monday segunda-feira
more; less mais; menos
Tuesday terça-feira
big; little grande; pequeno
Wednesday quarta-feira
open; closed aberto; fechado
Thursday quinta-feira
women; men senhoras; homens
Friday sexta-feira
toilet/bathroom lavabo/quarto
Saturday sábado
de banho
Numbers
Getting around
left, right, straight
esquerda, direita, 1 um 18 dezoito
ahead sempre em frente 2 dois 19 dezanove
here; there aqui; ali 3 três 20 vinte
near; far perto; longe 4 quatro 21 vinte e um
Where is the bus Onde é a estação 5 cinco 30 trinta
station? de camionetas? 6 seis 40 quarenta
the bus stop for… a paragem de 7 sete 50 cinquenta
autocarro para… 8 oito 60 sessenta
Where does the bus Donde parte o 9 nove 70 setenta
to… leave autocarro 10 dez 80 oitenta
from? para…? 11 onze 90 noventa
What time does it A que horas parte? 12 doze 100 cem
leave? 13 treze 101 cento e um
(arrive at…?) (chega a…?) 14 catorze 200 duzentos
Stop here please Pare aqui por favor 15 quinze 500 quinhentos
ticket (to) bilhete (para) 16 dezasseis 1000 mil
round trip ida e volta 17 dezassete
Accommodation
I’d like a room Queria um quarto
It’s for one night É para uma noite
Contents Language
207
Menu
LANGUAGE
glossary
Basic words and terms bacalhau à brás salted cod with egg
and potatoes
almoço lunch
caldeirada fish stew
assado roasted
camarões shrimp
colher spoon
carapau mackerel
conta bill
cataplana fish, shellfish or
copo glass
meat stewed in a
cozido boiled
circular metal dish
ementa menu
cherne stone bass
estrelado/frito fried
dourada bream
faca knife
espada scabbard fish
fumado smoked
espadarte swordfish
garfo fork
gambas prawns
garrafa bottle
lagosta lobster
grelhado grilled
lulas (grelhadas) squid (grilled)
jantar dinner
mexilhões mussels
mexido scrambled
pescada hake
pequeno almoço breakfast
polvo octopus
robalo sea bass
Soups, salad and staples salmão salmon
arroz rice salmonete red mullet
azeitonas olives santola spider crab
batatas fritas chips/ sapateira crab
french fries sardinhas na brasa charcoal-grilled
caldo verde cabbage soup sardines
fruta fruit tamboril monkfish
gaspacho chilled vegetable truta trout
soup viera scallop
legumes vegetables
manteiga butter Meat
ovos eggs
alheira chicken sausage
pão bread
bife à portuguesa thin beef steak with
pimenta pepper
a fried egg on top
piri-piri chilli sauce
borrego lamb
queijo cheese
chouriço spicy sausage
sal salt
coelho rabbit
salada salad
cozido à boiled casserole of
sopa de legumes vegetable soup
portuguesa meats and beans,
sopa de marisco shellfish soup
served with rice
sopa de peixe fish soup
and vegetables
dobrada tripe
Fish and shellfish espetada mista mixed meat kebab
arroz de marisco seafood rice febras pork steaks
atum tuna fiambre ham
Contents Language
208
frango no barbecued chicken Drinks

churrasco
pato duck um copo/uma a glass/bottle of...
perdiz partridge garrafa de/da...
LANGUAGE
perú turkey vinho branco/tinto white/red wine

porco à alentejana pork cooked with cerveja beer
clams água mineral water
presunto smoked ham (sem/com gás) (without/with gas)
vitela veal sumo de laranja/ orange/apple juice
maçã
chá tea
café coffee
sem/com leite without/with milk
sem/com açúcar without/with sugar
Contents Language
Index and small print
Contents Index and Small Print

210
A Rough Guide to Rough Guides
Lisbon DIRECTIONS is published by Rough Guides. The first Rough Guide to Greece, published in
1982, was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. The immediate success of
the book – with numerous reprints and a Thomas Cook prize shortlisting – spawned a series
SMALL PRINT
that rapidly covered dozens of destinations. Rough Guides had a ready market among low-budg
et backpackers, but soon also acquired a much broader and older readership that relished
Rough Guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach. Everyone
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211
Rough Guide Credits

Text editors: Ella O’Donnell, Claire Saunders Picture research: Sharon Martins, Joe Mee
Layout: Helen Prior, Dan May Proofreader: Susannah Wight, Karoline Densley
Photography: Ian Aitken Production: Julia Bovis
SMALL PRINT
Cartography: Miles Irving Design: Henry Iles
The author
Matthew Hancock fell in love with Portugal and its complete a 775-mile walk along the Portuguese-
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1990s. He later returned to the country to Guides to the Algarve and Madeira.
Acknowledgements
Amanda Tomlin, Alex and Olivia for ideas and and everyone at Rough Guides, especially Ella
support; Júlio Pires and Manuel Cabral Morais O’Donnell and Claire Saunders for making the
(members of the Board of ILGA Portugal editorial process fun and efficient; Sharon Martins
Association); Vitor Carriço at the Lisbon Tourist and Joe Mee for picture research, Ian Aitken for
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Lapa Palace and Pestana Palace Hotel; Destination Wight for proofreading.
Portugal; Luke and Paula for their usual assistance;
Photo credits
All images © Rough Guides except the following:
p.1 Street sign – Avenida da Republica © Paul p.37 Regency Chiado, view from terrace ©
Almasy/CORBIS Regency Hotels
p.2 Convento do Carmo © Hans Georg Roth/CORBIS p.37 Solar do Castelo pool © Solar do Castelo
p.5 Flower in Estufas park © Matthew Hancock p.37 Carlton Pestana © Matthew Hancock
p.6 Grocery shop © Matthew Hancock p.39 Grilled sardines © Michael Jenner
p.8 View of Alfama © Matthew Hancock p.43 Bico do Sapato © Andrew Shaylor
p.10 Diana Sculpture by Jean-Antoine Houdon © p.50 Centro Comunitario Gay e Lesbica de Lisboa
Gulbenkian Museum – interior © Ilga
p.10 Castle, central Lisbon © Matthew Hancock p.51 Gay Pride – stageshow © Ilga
p.20 Gulbenkian Centre of Modern Art - Paula p.52 New Year fireworks © Mark L.
Rega painting © Calouste Gulbenkian Stephenson/CORBIS
Foundation p.53 Santo Antonio –Street party © Peter Wilson
p.20 Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga - Japanese p.53 Pottery © Nik Wheeler/CORBIS
Namban screen © Institute of Portuguese p.53 Chestnut sellers © Matthew Hancock
Museums p.57 Puppet museum © Pedro Nereu/Museu de
p.21 Design Museum © Profimagen/Victor Branco Marioneta
p.22 Palacio Marques de Fronteira © Massimo p.57 Dolphins at Arrábida © Matthew Hancock
Listri/CORBIS p.59 Benfica stadium, fans © Tony Arruza/CORBIS
p.23 Tile Museum - Kitchen © Institute of p.59 Exterior of bullring © Martin Jones/CORBIS
Portuguese Museums p.59 Golf © Julius/CORBIS
p.25 Sao Roque, showing Capela da Sao Joao p.59 Windsurfing at Guincho © Steve
Baptista © Tony Arruza/CORBIS Wilkings/CORBIS
p.27 Ajuda, Banqueting hall © Alain Le p.59 Horse treks © Kit Houghton/CORBIS
Garsmeur/CORBIS p.60 Olodum drummer © Inge Yspeert/CORBIS
p.35 The initiation well at Quinta da Regaleira, p.63 Arrábida – view across mountain village ©
Sintra © Bo Zanders/CORBIS Matthew Hancock
p.35 Convento dos Capuchos, near Sintra © p.147 Elephant at zoo © CORBIS
Charles O'Rear/CORBIS p.149 Palacio de Fronteira, gardens © CORBIS
p.37 Orion Eden, rooftop pool © Patricia
Nogueira/VIP Hotels

212

213
Index
1° de Maio 108 Arrail Pride 51, 199 boat trips, Sesimbra 175
106 116 arrival 195 Boca do Inferno, Cascais 169
121 111 Arroz Doce 111 Bom Jardim/Rei dos
Art Shuttle 198 Frangos 41, 77
As Janelas Verdes 186 Bota Alta 109
a Associação Católica 43, 103

Avenida da Liberdade 19,
Botequim do Rei
Brasileira, A
145
102
INDEX
136–137 Brasuca 61, 109
Académica 108 Avenida da Liberdade map Brazilian culture 60
accommodation 36–37, 136 Bric-a-Bar 117
181–191 Avenida João Crisóstomo 195 bridges, see Ponte
accommodation map182–183 Azevedo Rua 76 British Bar 104
addresses 184 azulejos 22–23, 96 Bugix 154
Adega das Caves 159 bullfighting 58, 146
Adega do Ribatejo 111 bus station 195
Adega Machado
Adega Mesquita
Adega Santo Antão
111
111
77
b buses 197
Adega Triunfo
Adrenalina
Aerobus
83
153
195
B.leza
Bairro Alto
122
Bahia de Todos os Santos 121
105–113
c
African culture 60 Bairro Alto map 105 cable car 152
Águas do Bengo 108 Baixa 67–71 Cabo da Roca 55, 164
airlines 199 Baixa map 68 Cabo Espichel 174
airport 195 Baliza 104 Cacilhas 172
Ajuda 134 Bangkok 170 Café A Brasileira 30, 44, 102
Albergaria Senhora do banks 201 Café do Castelo, O 92
Monte 185 Bar Ártis 111 Cafe do Teatro 76
Alcântara 123–127 Barbas, O 176 Café No Chiado 102
Alcântara map 123 Bar Fonte da Pipa 161 Café Paris 160
Alcântara Café 125 Bar Terminal 178 Café Puro 71
Alcobaça 160 Barreiro station 195 Café Quadrante 135
Aldeia do Meco 174 bars 46–47 Café Suiça 45, 77
Alentejanos, Os 154 Alcântara and the Café Versailles 45, 145
Alfama 11, 84–88 riverfront 125 cafés 44–45
Alfama and the riverfront Bairro Alto 111 Alcântara and the
map 84 Baixa 71 riverfront 125
Amália Rodrigues house Cais do Sodré and Chiado 104 Alfama and the riverfront 86
museum 119 Cascais and Estoril 171 Avenida da Liberdade and
Castelo, Mouraria and around 140
American Express 199
Graça 93 Bairro Alto 108
Amoreiras 139 Parque das Nações 154 Baixa 70
Ana Salazar 101 Praça do Príncipe Real and Belém 135
Andorra 77 around 116 Cais do Sodré and Chiado 102
Antiga Confeitaria de Rossio 79 Cascais and Estoril 169
Belém 45, 135 South of the Tejo 178 Castelo, Mouraria and
Aqueduto das Águas Basílica da Estrela 25, Graça 92
Livres 34, 138 119 Eastern Lisbon 96
Archeological and ethno beaches, see Praia Northern Lisbon 149
graphical museum 197 beaches, Cascais 168 Parque Eduardo VII 145
Archeological Beckford, William 31, 162 Praça do Príncipe Real and
museum 130 Beira Gare 76 around 115
Archeological nucleus Beira Mar 177 Rossio 76
museum 69 Bela Ipanema 140 São Bento, Estrela and
Arco da Rua Augusta 69 Lapa 121
Belém 17, 128–135
Arco do Castelo 92 Sé and around 83
Belém map 128
Armazéns do Chiado 33, Caffè Rosso 104
Berlenga, A 77
101 Cais da Ribeira 103
Bernard 102
Armazéns do Chiado shopping Cais do Sodré 17, 98–104
Bica do Sapato 43, 96
centre 54, 101 Cais do Sodré map 98
Bicaense 104
Arrábida 175 Câmara Escura 90
Blues Café 125
Campaneza, A 70

214
Campimeco, Praia das Chiado map 98 Doca de Santo 126
Bicas 191 children’s Lisbon 56–57 Doca do Jardim do
Camping Praia Grande 191 Children’s museum 131 Tobaco 85
Campo Pequeno 146 churches, see Igreja docks, see Doca
campsites 191 Ciência Viva 152 Docks Club 126
Canteiro, O 103 cinemas 200 dolphin watching 57, 176
Cantinho da Paz 121 City Hall 68 Dom Manolo’s 170
Cantinho do Bem Estar, O 109 climate 4 drinking 46–47
Caparica 63, 173 Clube da Esquina 111 driving 195
Capela de São João Clube do Fado 88
INDEX
Baptista 25, 106 clubs 48–49

Cápsula
car parks
Caramba
135
195
171
Alcântara and the
riverfront 125
Alfama and the riverfront 88
e
Carnival 198 Avenida da Liberdade and earthquake 18
Cartão Lisboa 197 around 140 Eastern Lisbon 94–97
Casa da Avo 160 Bairro Alto 111
Eastern Lisbon map 94
Cais do Sodré and Chiado 104
Casa da Comida 140 eating and drinking 38–47
Cascais and Estoril 171
Casa da Piriquita 160 Eastern Lisbon 97 Eça de Queiroz 30
Casa de São Mamede 186 Parque das Nações 154 Eden building 33, 75
Casa do Alentejo 41, 78 Praça do Príncipe Real and El Corte Inglês 145
Casa do Fado e da Guitarra around 117 Eldorado 107
Portuguesa 48, 85 São Bento, Estrela and electricity 201
Casa do Governador 91 Lapa 122 Electricity/Industrial
Casa do Leão 43, 92 Sé and around 83 museum 134
Casa do Turista 139 Coach museum 134 Elevador da Bica 13, 99
Casa dos Bicos 35, 82 Coconuts 171 Elevador da Glória 13, 106
Casa Museu Amália Colares Velho 166 Elevador da Glória 75
Rodrigues 119 Coliseu dos Recreios 75 Elevador de Santa Justa 12,
Casa Museu Dr Anastáccio Colombo shopping centre 149 15, 69
Gonçalves 144 Comida de Santo 116 Elevador do Lavra 75, 137
Casa Museu Fernando Conceiçao Velha 33, 81 Elevador Panorâmico da Boca
Pessoa 120 Confeitaria Nacional 44, 77 do Vento, Cacilhas 172
Casa Pereira da Conceição 70 Conserveira de Lisboa 55, elevadores 197
Casa Trasmontana 109 82 email 201
Casanova 96 consulates 201 embassies and
casas do fado 49 Contemporary art museum consulates 201
Cascais 62, 167–171 100 emergencies 201
Cascais map 167 Convento da Arrábida 175 English Bar (Cimas) 170
casino, Estoril 169 Convento do Carmo 24, 107 English cemetery (Cemitério
Castelo de São Jorge 10, 90 Conventual 116 dos Ingleses) 31, 119
Castelo 89–93 Costa da Caparica 173–174 Enoteca 47, 117
Castelo map 89 Costa do Castelo 93 Espaço Fátima Lopes 55, 108
castelo, Sesimbra 175 Cozinha Velha 166 Espaço Oikos 82
cathedral (Sé) 24, 80 Cristo Rei 34, 172 Espalha Brasas 125
Celeiro 78 Culturgest art centre 147 Español 103
Cemitério dos Ingleses 31, cyber-cafés 201 Esplanada 116
119 Cyberica 201 Esplanada da Graça 93
Centro Colombo 149 Esplanada do Casino 166
Centro Comercial Mouraria 61, Esplanada Santa Marta 169
76
Centro Comunitário Gay e
Lésbica de Lisboa 50, 201
d Estação do Oriente
Estação Fluvial
Estádio da Luz
151
195
148
Centro Cultural de Belém 131 day-trips 62–63 Estádio do Restelo 133
Centro de Arte Moderna 20, Decorative arts museum 86 Estádio José Alvalade 147
144 Delhi Palace 83 Estoril 63, 69
Centro Vasco da Gama 153 Design museum 21, 131 Estrela 118–122
Cerca Moura 86 directory 199–202 Estrela map 118
Cervejaria da Trindade 23, disabled travellers 200 Estrela da Sé 83
40, 109 Discoteca Amália 70 estufas 142
Cervejaria Farol 42, 177 Discoveries Monument 132 Euro 2004 19
Chafarica 60, 97 diving 176 euro 201
Chez Degroote 103 Doca de Alcântara 123 events 198
Chiado 98–104 Doca de Santo Amaro 17, 124 Expo 98 150

215
f
h
j
Fábrica das Verdareiras Handicrafts Fair 199 Jamaica 104

Queijadas 160 Harry’s Bar 112 Jardim Botânico 28, 115
Fábrica Sant’anna 101 Havana 126 Jardim Botânico d’Ajuda 134
fado 48–49, 85 Havana 154 Jardim da Estrela 29, 119
Fado and Portuguese guitar Henriques, Afonso 18 Jardim do Marisco 86
museum 85 Heroís 104 Jardim do Torel 137
INDEX
Fado/Harbour Festival 198 historical Lisbon 18–19 Jardim do Ultramar 133
fairground rides 57,147 Historical multimedia Jardim dos Frangos 170–171
Farah’s Tandoori 121 museum 90 Jardim Zoológico 148
Farol Design Hotel, holidays 202 Jazz Numa Noite de Verão 199
Cascais 189 horse-riding 59, 159 João do Grão 71
Fátima Lopes 55, 108 hospitals 201 John Bull 171
Faz Frio 116 hostels 190 Jonas Bar 171
Feira da Ladra market 54, 95 Hot Clube de Portugal 49, 140 José Dias Sobral 101
Feira Internacional Hotel Albatroz, Cascais 189 José Maria de Fonseca wine
Artesantato 53, 153, 169 Hotel Anjo Azul 50, 186 vaults and museum 176
Feira Internacional de Hotel Arribas, Praia
Lisboa 153 Grande 189
Feira Popular
ferries
Festival do Vinho
57, 147
13, 196
199
Hotel Avenida Palace 181, 184
Hotel Baia, Cascais
Hotel Borges
189
186
k
Festival dos Oceanos 199 Hotel Britania 187 Kapital 122
festivals 52–53, 198 Hotel Central, Sintra 188 Keops 112
fiction, Lisbon in 30–31 Hotel Dom Carlos 187 kids’ Lisbon 56–57
Fielding, Henry 31, 119 Hotel Duas Nações 181 Kremlin 122
Finalmente 117 Hotel Flamingo 187
fish market, Cascais 168 Hotel International 184
Flôr da Sé
Floresta Belém
Fonte da Telha
83
135
174
Hotel Janelas Verdes 31, 186
Hotel Lisboa Plaza
Hotel Lisboa Regency
187 l
food and drink, local 38–39 Chiado 37, 186 L’Entrecôte 103
food terms 207 Hotel Metrópole 184 Lagoa de Albufeira 174
football 19, 59,133, 147, 148 Hotel Miraparque 188 language 203–208
Frágil 111 Hotel Mundial 184 Lapa 118–122
Funcação Calouste Hotel Portugal 184 Lapa map 118
Gulbenkian 10, 142–144 Hotel Real Parque 188 Lapa Palace Hotel 37, 187
Fundação Arpad Siznes-Viera Hotel Suíço Atlântico 184 Lautasco 87
da Silva 137 Hotel Tivoli Lisboa 188 Lawrence’s Hotel, Sintra 188
Fundação Medeiros e Almeida Hotel Veneza 187 Leão d’Ouro 78
137 hotels 36–37, 181–190 left luggage 201
Hua Ta Li 83 Licorista, A 71
Linha d’Água café, A 45, 145
g i
Linha de Cascais 13, 168
Lisboa Parque das Nações 190
Lisbon Card 197
Galé, A 178 Lisbon Welcome Centre 196
Gambrinus 78 Igreja da Assunção, Lisbona 47, 112
gardens (see also Cascais 168 Literary Lisbon 30–31
Jardim) 28–29 Igreja de Madre de Deus 96 Live science museum 152
gay and lesbian Igreja de Santo António 81 Livraria Bertrand 102
Lisbon 50–51, 201 Igreja de São Domingos 74 local cuisine 38–39
Gay Pride 51, 199 Igreja de São Roque 25, 106 Loja 139
Ginginha, A 46, 79 Igreja dos Mártires 101 lost property 201
Ginginha-Rubi 79 immigration 60 Loureiro, O 166
golf 59, 165 Initiation Well, Quinta da Luanda 126
Gonçalves, Nuno 120 Regaleira 35, 158 Luvraria Ulisses 102
Graça 89–93 Instituto da Cinemateca Lux 48, 97
Graça map 89 Portuguesa 200
Guincho 169 Internet 200, 201
Gulbenkian, Calouste 142 Irish Pub O’Gilins 104

216
Pap’Açorda
m Museu do Centro Científico e
Cultural de Macau 61, 125
Museu do Chiado 100
Paradise Garage
110
126
Parliament building 26, 119
Macao 61, 125

Museu do Design 21,
Parque das Nações 16,
Macao cultural museum 61,

131–132
150–154
125
Museu do Mar, Cascais 168
Parque das Nações map 150
Mãe d’Água 35, 138

Museu do Teatro Romano 82
Parque do Estoril 169
mail 201
Museu dos Coches 134
Parque do Tejo 153
Malmequer-Bemmequer 87
Museu Nacional de Arte
Parque Eduardo VII 15,
Antiga 20, 120–121

141–142
INDEX
Manuel Tavares 55, 76
Manueline
Museu Nacional do Azulejo 23,
Parque Eduardo VII and the
architecture 32–33
96
Gulbenkian map 141
Mareante 178
Museum of the sea,
Parque Florestal de
Marina de Cascais 168

Cascais 168
Monsanto 134
Maritime museum 21, 130

music 48–49
Parque Infantil 142
markets, see Mercado

Music Bar 170
Parque Mayer 137
Marquês de Sintra 160

Parque Municipal de
Martinho da Arcada 41, 71

Campismo 191
Matas
Memorial
92
117
n Parque Municipal da
Gandarinha, Cascais 168
Parque Natural da
menu reader 207–208
Mercado da Ribeira 55, 99

Napoleão 70
Arrábida 63, 175
Mercado de Santa Clara 96

National Gallery 20, 120
Parreirinha de Alfama, A 88
Mesacais 87
Natural history museum 115
Pastelaria Anunciada 140
metro 197
Nicola 77
Pastelaria Dourada 149
Miradouro da Graça 15, 91

North Lisbon 146–149
Pastelaria São Roque 116
Miradouro da Santa Luzia 14,

Northern Lisbon map 146
Pavilhão Atlântico 151
86
Novo Bonsai 109
Pavilhão Chinês 47, 117
Miradouro de Santa
Núcleo Arqueológico 69
Pavilhão de Portugal 33
Catarina 14, 100

Pé Sujo 83
Miradouro de São Pedro de

Pensão Coimbra e Madrid 184
MM
Alcântara 15, 106
76
o Pensão Duque
Pensão Globo
Pensão Londres
186
186
186
mobile phones 202
Monasterium Café 96
Oceanário de Lisboa 11, 152
Pensão Luar 186
money 201
Olisipónia 90
Pensão Ninho das Águias 185
Monserrate 31, 162

Olivais dock 151
Pensão Nova Sintra 189
Moorish rule 18
opera 100
Pensão Portuense 184
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos 11,

Orbitur Costa de Caparica 191
Pensão Prata 181
129
Orbitur Guincho 191
Pensão Real, Caparica 190
Mouraria 89–93
Oriente station 195
Pensão Residencial Gerês 184
Mouraria map 89
Orixás 161
Pensão São João da
Muchaxo 171
Outão 191
Praça 185
Museu Antoniano 81
Pescador, O 171
Museu Arqueológico do
Pessoa, Fernando 30
Carmo
Museu Biblioteca Conde
107
p Pessoa’s house museum 120
Pestana Palace Hotel 37, 127,
187
Castro Guimarães,
Cascais 168
Padrão dos pharmacies 201
Museu Calouste
Descobrimentos 18, 132
Picanha 129
Gulbenkian 21, 143

Palácio Belmonte 185
Piela’s 189
Museu da Ciência 115

Palácio da Ajuda 27, 134
Pingo Doce 76
Museu da Electricidade 134

Palácio da Assembléia 18,
Pintos 171
Museu da Historia Natural 115

119
Pombal, Marquês do 67
Museu da Marinha 21, 130

Palácio de Foz 75
Ponte 25 de Abril 19, 124
Museu da Marioneta 57, 121

Palácio de Queluz 27,
Ponte Vasco da Gama 35,
Museu das Crianças 131

165–166
151
Museu de Água Príncipe

Palácio de Seteais 188
Ponto Final, O 177
Real 114
Palácio dos Marquêses da
port wine 38–39
Museu de Arqueologia 130

Fronteira 22, 148
Portas Largas 47, 112
Museu de Artes
Panteão Nacional 25, 95
Portinho da Arrábida 175
Decorativas 86
Pantheon of the Bragança
Portuguese
Museu do Brinquedo 56, 121

dynasty 95
language 203–208
Pão de Canela 115

post offices 201

217
Pousada de Juventude de Melo 188 Santo António festival 53

Almada 190 Residencial Sintra 189 Santos Ofícios 83
Pousada de Juventude de Residencial York House 37, Santos Populares 198
Lisboa 190 187 São Bento 118–122
Pousada de Juventude de Restaurante Calcuta 110 São Bento map 118
Sintra 190 Restaurante Luso 112 São Cristóvão 92
Pousada Dona Maria I 189 Restaurante Panorâmico 154 São Jerónimo 135
Praça da Figueira 74 restaurants 38–43 São Martinho festival 53, 199
Praça das Amoreiras 29, Alcântara and the riverfront São Vicente de Fora 22, 95
138 125 Saramago, José 30–31
INDEX
Praça de Touros 146 Alfama and the riverfront 86 Science museum 115
Praça do Comércio 16, Avenida da Liberdade and Sé and around 80–83
67 around 140 Sé map 80
Praça do Império 131 Bairro Alto 108 Sé (cathedral) 24, 80
Baixa 71
Praça do Município 68 Sé Guest House 185
Belém 135
Praça do Príncipe Real 29, Cais do Sodré and Chiado 103
Senhor Vinho, O 122
114–117 Cascais and Estoril 170 Sesimbra 174
Praça do Prínçipe Real map Castelo, Mouraria and Sétimo Céu 51, 112
114 Graça 92 Setúbal 176
Praça Dom Pedro IV Eastern Lisbon 96 Severa, A 113
(Rossio) 73 Northern Lisbon 149 shopping 54–55
Praça dos Restauradores 74 Parque das Nações 154 Avenida da Liberdade and
Praça Marquês de Parque Eduardo VII 145 around 139
Pombal 137 Praça do Prínçipe Real and Bairro Alto 107
Praia da Conceição, around 116 Baixa 70
Cascais 168 Rossio 77 Cais do Sodré and Chiado 101
Praia da Rainha, Cascais 169 São Bento, Estrela and Castelo, Mouraria and
Lapa 121 Graça 91
Praia da Ribeira, Cascais 169
Sé and around 83 Northern Lisbon, shops 149
Praia de Santa Marta, Parque das Nações 153
South of the Tejo 176
Cascais 169 Parque Eduardo VII 145
Rêsto do Chapitô 42, 93
Praia de Tamariz, Estoril 169 Rossio and around 76
Retiro del Castilho 83
Praia do Guincho 169 Sé and around 82
Ribadouro 40, 140
Praia do Meco 174 sightseeing tours 198
Ritz Four Seasons 188
Primavera do Jerónimo, A 110 Sinal Vermelho 110
river cruises 198
public holidays 202 Sintra 62,
Rodizio Grill 149
puppet museum 57, 121 155–161
Roman Lisbon 18
Purex 112 Sintra coast 162–166
Roman theatre museum 82
Rossio 72–79 Adega das Caves 159
Rossio map 72–73 Adega Regional de
q Rua Augusta
Rua da Misericórdia
68
106
Colares
Alcobaça
Azenhas do Mar
164
160
164
Rua da Trindade 109 bars and clubs 161
Queen’s 49, 127
Rua das Portas de Santo beach, see Praia
Queluz 165
Antão 75, 77–79 Beckford, William 31
Rua do Arsenal 69 Cabo da Roca 164
Rua do Poço dos Negros 118 cafés 159–160, 166
r Rua do Século
Rua Garrett
106
100
Café Paris
Casa da Avo
160
160
Casa da Piriquita 160
Refeições Naturais e Castelo dos Mouros, 157
Vegetarianos 71
Rego, Paula
República da Cerveja
144
154
s Centro Cultural Olga Cadaval,
Colares
Convento dos Capuchos 35,
163
Residencial13° da 164
Saint Anthony museum 81
Sorte 187 Cook, Sir Francis 163
Salsa Latina 127 Cruz Alta 158
Residencial Alegria 187–188
Sana Classic Rex Hotel 188 Fábrica das Verdareiras
Residencial Avenida Alameda
Sana Park, Sesimbra 190 Queijadas da Sapa 160
188
Santa Apolónia 94 golf 165
Residencial Camões 186
Santa Apolónia station 195 Marquês de Sintra 160
Residencial Canadá 188
Santa Cruz 91 Modern art museum 21, 159
Residencial Dom Sancho 188
Santa Engrácia 25, 95 Monserrate 31, 162
Residencial Florescente 184 Museu de Arte Moderna,
Santo António de
Residencial Insulana 181 Sintra 21, 159
Alfama 87
Residencial Pascoal de

218
Museu do Brinquedo Tarquino Bar 178
travel agents 202
Sintra 157
Tasca de Ratinho, A 177
travel passes 197
Orixás 161
Tasca Tequila Bar, A 113
Três Pastorinhos, Os 113
Palácio da Pena 27, 157

Tascardoso 116
Trumps 117
Palácio da Seteais 158

Tasquinha, A 92
Tulhas 161
Paláçio dos Milhões 158

Tavares Rico 41, 104
Palácio Nacional 27, 155
Taverna do Embuçado 88
Parque da Pena 157
Penha Longa Golf Club 165
Praia da Andraga 164
Taverna do Julião, A
taxis
88
195, 198
Teatro Nacional de Dona
INDEX
Praia das Maçãs 164
Praia Grande 164

Maria II 74
Vá e Volte 110
Quinta da Regaleira 35, 158

Teatro Nacional de São
Varina da Madragoa 122
restaurants 160–161, 166

Carlos 100
Vasco da Gama shopping
Sintra coast map 163

Teatro Romano 82
centre 153
Sintra map 156

Teatro Taborda 93
Vasco da Gama 128, 130
transport 155
teleférico (cable car) 152
Via Graça 93
Tulhas 161
telephones 202
viewpoints 14–15, 42–43
Toca do Javal 161

temperatures 4
Village Cascais 190
toy museum 157

Terreiro do Paço 71
VIP Orion Eden 37, 185
Sintra Music Festival 199

Tertúlia 113
Sítio do pica-pau 121

Tertúlia do Tejo 43, 125
snacks
Snob
Sol Posto
44
117
78
theatres
Tibetanos
tickets, events
74
140
202
w
Solar do Castelo 37, 185
tickets, public transport 197
Wagons-Lit 103
Solar do Morais 145

tiles 22–23, 96
Water museum Príncipe
Solar do Vinho do Porto 46,

time 202
Real 114
113
Timpanas 127
weather 4
Solar Dom Carlos, Cascais 190

tipping 202
websites 200
Solar dos Mouros 185

Tivoli Forum 139
windsurfing 59
Solar dos Presuntos 79

Toca do Javali 161
wine 38–39
Solmar 79
toilets 202
wine museum 176
Sony Plaza 153

Toni Bar 178
South of the Tejo 172–178

Torre de Belém 11, 132
South of the Tejo map

Speakeasy
sport
173
127
58
Torre Vasco da Gama
152–153
Torres and Brinkmann 102
y
stadiums, see Estádio
tourist offices 196
youth hostels (see also
stations (see also Estação) 195

toy museum 56, 121
Pousada de Juventude) 190
Suíça 77
toy train Caparica 174
Sul 110
toy train, Belém 13, 133
surfing 58
toy train, Parque das
Nações
trains
151
195
z
t tram #25
tram #28
81
91
Zara
Zen
70
125
tram tours 198

Zimler, Richard 30
Tacão Grande, O 113

trams 12, 197
Zonadoca 125
Tágide 103
transport 196
zoo 148

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Rough Guide Directions Lisbon

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Rough Guide Directions Lisbon

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Lisbon

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

Bairro Alto ........................................................105–113

Praça do Príncipe Real and

Alcântara and the riverfront ....123–127

Avenida da Liberdade and

Historical Lisbon ..............................................18–19

Parque Eduardo VII and

On the tiles ............................................................22–23

Northern Lisbon ........................................146–149

Churches and cloisters ............................24–25

Parque das Nações ..............................150–154

Doms and donnas ..........................................26–27

Outdoor Lisbon ..................................................28–29

The Sintra Coast, Queluz and

Literary Lisbon ..................................................30–31

Manueline to modern ................................32–33

Cascais and Estoril ................................167–171

Weird structures ..............................................34–35

South of the Tejo ......................................172–178

Luxury hotels ......................................................36–37

Local cuisine ........................................................38–39

Traditional eating ............................................40–41

Views to feast on ............................................42–43

Best bars ..................................................................46–47

Lisbon beat ............................................................48–49

Gay and lesbian Lisbon ..........................50–51

Good buys ................................................................54–55

Sporting Lisbon ................................................58–59

Ethnic Lisbon ......................................................60–61

Festivals and events ............................198–199

The Sé and around ....................................80–83

The Alfama and the riverfront ......84–88

Castelo, Mouraria and Graça ..........89–93

Set across a series of hills overlooking the broad

countless cosmopolitan bars negotiate its hills, Lisbon is a

pall, take the train out to

wooded heights and royal

earthy riverside district of Cais do

Rua Vieira Portuense, Belém

to explore the new world. The

outstanding museum and cultural

Parque das Nações

Lisbon is not known

Castelo de São Jorge

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Lisbon differs from Trams

Old Lisbon’s houses

and churches are

hills facing the Tejo.

between two buildings or

Elevador de Santa Justa

Parque Eduardo VII

The Tejo was the

Doca de Santo Amaro

Olisipo was the

For a relatively small Centro de Arte Moderna

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

AND THE GULBENKIAN �

Museu de Arte Moderna,

Beautiful decorative Palácio dos Marquêses da