Weebee Sally Doll - Crochet Caddy Mod Kit

Weebee Special Edition
Sally the Vintage Style Rag Doll

- Crochet Caddy Mod Kit
© 2018 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. Finished products created with this FREE pattern may be used for commercial sale.
Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.
I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this FREE pattern are accurate and safe, and therefore cannot accept liability
for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it may arise. Names of manufacturers and product ranges are provided for
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When I make my Sally Crochet Caddy using Worsted/4/Aran/10ply weight yarn and a 3mm hook,
she stands at 12 and a half inches tall. Made from the toes to the top of the head with the arms
crocheted in as you go, only her hair cap and embellishments needs sewing on! Other yarn
weights and hooks can of course be used to create smaller or larger dolls!
You can find my all of my doll patterns plus lots of clothing patterns for many of them here.
Make sure to join the Weebee Appreciation Society!

Facebook group dedicated to my Weebee doll patterns with over 9,000
amazingly friendly and helpful members!
Before you begin…
This kit contains all the information you need to transform the Sally Vintage Style Rag Doll into a
handy caddy for all of your crafting bits and bobs! You will need to have a copy of the Sally
Vintage Style Rag Doll to complete this kit. You can find the pattern here.
Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed.
~•~
Terminology: US Abbreviations Cont/d… Abbreviations Cont/d…
Double Crochet (dc) Skip (skp)
Other items needed:
Half double crochet (hdc) Stitch (st)
Stitch marker
Loop (lp) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Tapestry needle
Magic ring (MR) Yarn Over (yo)
A regular stocking
Next (nxt)
Poly-pellets – I bought mine
Round (rnd)
from Amazon
Single Crochet (sc)
Abbreviations: Space (sp)
Back loop only (blo)
Chain (ch)
~•~
Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?
Not a recommendation as such, it’s just because I get asked this a lot. For my dolls and clothing I
like to use Stylecraft and Paintbox yarns, both brands offer good quality acrylic yarns, have a
lovely selection of colours and are very reasonably priced.
Special Stitches
Invisible single crochet decrease
PLEASE READ - as this way of decreasing should be used throughout the pattern!
Sc2tog: Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on
hook), yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal. Please see this Youtube video
for a demonstration of this type of decrease (useful from 1min 48 in).
Ch3 Picot
Ch3, insert your hook into the third ch from the hook, yo and draw the yarn through the ch and the
loop on your hook. Here’s a helpful video tutorial for this stitch.
Special Techniques
Working into the Lower Back Loop
This YouTube video explains the

technique (also referred to as the
third loop in some instances)
Pattern Start
Sally Doll Body
This mod kit pattern contains all the information you need
to transform the Weebee Special Edition, Sally Vintage
Style Rag Doll into a unique caddy for all of your crafting
bits and bobs! She would also make a beautiful door stop
or jewellery caddy!
You will need to have a copy of the Sally Vintage Style
Rag Doll to complete this kit. You can find the pattern
here.
We will start by making the arms…
Arm – make 2
The arms are worked from the hands up in continuous spirals without joining the
rounds. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round
starts. – stuff after every five rounds – I found it useful to use the end of my
crochet hook to pack the stuffing in firmly – leave the last three round unstuffed.
We begin with the arms so that we can crochet them onto the body afterwards.
Rnds 1 - 20: Follow arm pattern as written in the Sally doll pattern.
Now change colour for the top of the arm using chosen colour for the
bodice of the dress.
Rnds 21 – 25: As per the Sally doll pattern.
Row 26: Close up the top of the arms as directed in the Sally doll pattern for crocheting on later.
Fasten off and hide any loose ends within the arm.
Doll Base
The Sally Caddy doll has a flat weighted base. This base is worked in
continuous spirals, using a stitch marker to keep track of where the
beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st) work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around, join (12sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in the first st, work 2sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, work 2sc in the next st, repeat
from * around (18sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each of the first 2sts, work 2sc in the next st, *sc in each of the next 2sts, work 2sc in
the next st, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each of the first 8sts, work 2sc in the next st, *sc in each of the next 8sts, work 2sc
in the next st, repeat from * around (60sts)
Rnd 11: Sc in each of the first 9sts, work 2sc in the next st, *sc in each of the next 9sts, work 2sc
in the next st, repeat from * around (66sts)
Rnd 12: Sc in each of the first 10sts, work 2sc in the next st, *sc in each of the next 10sts, work
2sc in the next st, repeat from * around (72sts)
Rnd 13: Hdc in each st around (72sts)
Rnd 14: Sc in the lower back loop (see special techniques) of each st around, the double chain
loop here will help shape the flat bottom and we will hide it by working a frill later (72sts)
Do not fasten off, continue onto the…
Skirt
Rnd 15: Sc in each st around (72sts)
Rnd 16: Hdc in each st around (72sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in the lower back loop of each st around – we will use the
double chain loops created here to make a decorative lace trim later on
(72sts)
Rnd 18: Sc in each of the first 10sts, sc2tog, *sc in each of the next
10sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (66sts)
Rnds 19 – 21: Sc in each st around (66sts)
Rnd 22: Sc in each of the first 9sts, sc2tog, *sc in each of the next 9sts, sc2tog, repeat from *
around (60sts)
around (54sts)
around (48sts)
around (42sts)
around (36sts)
around (30sts)
Now it’s time to add some weight to our doll to make
sure she won’t wobble when her pockets are filled.
Take a stocking and pour your poly-pellets into it. I
added the entire 170g bag to my 12 and a half inch
tall doll. Feel free to add more or less depending on
the size of your doll.
Then simply tie a knot in
the stocking and place
inside the skirt section of
the doll and add your
stuffing.
Make sure that your skirt is stuffed firmly, shape it as you stuff so that it is
even on all sides and nice and smooth everywhere, with as few lumps
and bumps as possible.
Continue stuffing as you work the rest of your doll, making sure she is
firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 46: Sc in each of the first 3sts, sc2tog, *sc in each of the next 3sts,
sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 50: Sc in each of the first 2sts, sc2tog, *sc in each of the next 2sts,
sc2tog, repeat from * around (18sts)
Continue as follows…
Bodice
Change colour for bodice – fasten off the yarn for the dress skirt and using chosen colour for
bodice work a round of LOOSE slip stitches into the back loops only of round 50 and then work
round 51 into the back loops of those slip stitches. I show how to do a colour change this way in
this video here.
Rnd 52: *Sc in each of the first 7sts, sc2tog, repeat from * once more (16sts)
Rnds 54 - 61: Follow rounds 46 – 53 of the Sally doll pattern.
Change colour for the neck and head – fasten off the yarn for the
bodice and using chosen skin tone yarn for the neck and head work a
round of LOOSE slip stitches into the back loops only of round 61 and
then work round 62 into the back loops of those slip stitches (work the
sc2togs as per the invisible decreases (see special stiches) but into the
two back loops rather than the front. I show how to do a colour change
this way in this video here.
Rnds 62 - 66: Follow rounds 54 – 58 of the Sally doll pattern.
Stuff the shoulders and lower neck area firmly and continue onto the…
Head
Follow neck definition & head support round if you wish to do so as
per the Sally doll pattern.
Rnds 67 & 68: As per rounds 59 and 60 of the Sally doll pattern.
Rnds 69 – 78: As per rounds 61-70 of the Sally doll pattern – place a
marker between rounds 73 and 74 for embroidering the eyes later
(24sts)
Rnd 79: As per round 71 of the Sally doll pattern.
Stuff upper neck area and head firmly.
Rnds 80 & 81: As per rounds 72 and 73 of the Sally doll pattern
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Facial Features
Follow directions as per the Sally doll pattern.
Hair Cap
Hair cap is worked from the top down in joined rounds, at the end of each
round, join the last st to the top of the first with a sl st.
Rnds 1-3: In chosen colour, follow rounds 1-3 of the Sally doll hair cap
pattern.
Rnds 4 – 8: Follow directions as per the Sally doll hair cap pattern but work
into the back loops only.
Fasten off leaving a long tail to gather for the parting and sew the cap onto
the doll’s head.
Following the method used in this video use the tail to gather up the cap to
form a parting at the front and then sew the cap onto the head – I placed
the parting on my doll to one side - to see how I sew on my caps you can
watch this video.
Curly Hair Bun

Hair bun is worked in joined rounds, at the end of each round join the last st
to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: Leaving a long starting tail, MR, ch1 (not a st from now on), work
8hdc, join as above (8sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 3hdc into each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, work 5hdc into each st around, join (120sts)
Fasten off and hide the fastening off tail. Use long starting tail to sew the bun onto the side of your
doll’s head as pictured above.
Lace Trim for Bodice

Trim is worked in rows and then sewn onto the colour change loops on the
bodice below the neck.
Ch21
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, continue to sc in each ch across,
turn (20sts)
Row 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), sc in the first st, *ch3, skip 3sts, sc in the
next st, repeat from * across to last 3sts, ch3, skip 2sts and sc in the last st
(6sts and 5 ch3 spaces)
Row 3: Ch1, sc in first st, ch2 and sc in the middle of the first ch3 space, ch2 and sc in the sc,
*ch2 and work a sc in the middle of the next ch3 space, ch2 and sc in the next sc, repeat from *
across, turn (11sts & 10 ch2 spaces)
Row 4: Ch1, sc in the first st, in first ch2 space work (sc, ch3 picot (see special stitches), sc), sl st
into the next sc, *in next ch2 space work (sc, ch3 picot, sc), sl st in the next sc, repeat from *
across, working (sc, ch3 picot, sc) in last ch2 space and a sc in the last st (10 decorative points
with an sc at either end)
Fasten off leaving a long tail, then holding the trim around the top of your
doll where the bodice yarn meets the skin tone yarn, sew the two ends of the
trim together at the back of your doll. Then sew the stitches at the top of
your trim to the double loops created by the colour change, there will be
20sts on your trim and 20sts on the bodice so it should align nicely.
Ruffle Trim to Hide the Base

Holding the doll upside down, attach the yarn colour
used for the skirt to the lower set of double loops
(created by working into the lower back loop in round
14 on the base) at the back of your doll. Ch2 (not a st)
and work 2dc into each unworked double chain loop
around (144sts)
Petal Trim on Skirt

Holding the doll upside down, attach the
yarn colour chosen for your lace to the
upper set of double loops (created by
working into the lower back loop in round
17 on the skirt) at the back of your doll.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (not a st from now on), sc in each of the first 3sts, ch3, skip 3sts, *sc in each of the
next 3sts, ch3, skip 3sts, repeat from * around, joining last ch3 to top of first sc with a sl st (27sts &
9 ch3 spaces)
Rnd 2: Sl st into the second sc in the first set of 3, ch1, sc in same st, ch3 and sc in the middle of
the first ch3 space, ch3, *sc in the centre sc in the next group of 3, ch3 and sc in the middle of the
next ch3 space, ch3, repeat from * around, joining last ch3 to top of first sc with a sl st (24 ch3
loops with sc’s between them)
Rnd 3: Sl st into first ch3 space, work (ch1, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, ch1, sl st) all in the same space,
*skip the sc and sl st to next ch3 space, work (ch1, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, ch1, sl st) all in the ch3
space, repeat from * around, sl st into the sc before the first ‘petal’ to complete the round (24
petals)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Miniature Ball of Yarn
Any small stuffed object could be used in place of this miniature ball of yarn
to make a pin cushion for your doll to hold – I didn’t like the idea of sticking
pins in her head like I’ve seen on other similar dolls – you can find small tea
cups and saucers or flowers for example that would also work well.
Worked in continuous rounds, use a st marker to mark the first st in every
round.
Rnd 1: Using chosen colour, MR, ch1 (not a st), work 8hdc (8sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2hdc into the lower back loop only (see special
stitches) of each st around (16sts)
Rnds 3 - 5: Hdc into the lower back loop only of each st around
(16sts)
Rnd 6: Hdc2tog into the lower back loops only of each st around
(8sts)
Stuff the ball.
Fasten off leaving a tail. Use the tail to weave in and out of the remaining sts and pull tight to
close the hole.
Taking the same yarn colour now attach your yarn to any stitch on the
top or the bottom of the ‘ball of yarn’ you have just made.
Now work a length of chain around your ball several times –
Important things to note for this step:
1. Your chains should be the same size as the double chain loops
created by working into the lower back loops on the ball.
2. After every few chains anchor it to the top and bottom around the ball
– this makes it look more like a ball of yarn with chains going in either
direction and will stop them from falling off.
3. Leave a tail of chains hanging loose to look
like the yarn end, when you have attached the
ball to the hands you can lose the fastening off
end in the doll as pictured.
Attach the ball of
yarn to the hands
by taking a length
of skin toned yarn
and passing it
through as
pictured.
Now to make your Sally doll unique to you by adding…
Decorative Pockets to Suit Your Needs

Here’s where you can get creative to suit your personal storage needs!
Making different sizes and shapes of pockets to suit!
Remember with most patterns you can work more or less rows or rounds to make shapes larger or
smaller or simply use a smaller/larger hook and/or weight of yarn!
Get creative!
Here are some links to help you out:
Free applique patterns – look for ones without large gaps to work as pockets in
themselves or sew them onto appropriately shaped pockets to embellish them!
Shapes:
• Squares
• Circles
• Rectangles
• Half Circles
• Hexagons
• Octagons
• Pentagons
• Triangles
Crochet embroidery can add a fun element to your pockets and adding a
twisted single crochet (video here) edging gives it an extra something too!
Here’s a link to YouTube videos for inspiration.
Once you’re happy with your pockets and you’ve figured out where you want to
put them on the skirt, simply take a darning needle and a length of yarn the
same colour as your shape (or your fastening off tail from the shape) and sew
the bottom and sides of the shape onto the skirt, leaving the top open to form a
pocket 😊
~•~
I really hope you have enjoyed completing the items within this pattern!
Please share your Weebee projects with us on the Weebee Appreciation Society
Facebook Page (link on page 1) and don’t forget to add your project to Ravelry!

Weebee Sally Doll - Crochet Caddy Mod Kit

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Weebee Sally Doll - Crochet Caddy Mod Kit

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Available Formats

Weebee Special Edition

Sally the Vintage Style Rag Doll

Make sure to join the Weebee Appreciation Society!

This YouTube video explains the

We will start by making the arms…

Curly Hair Bun

Lace Trim for Bodice

Ruffle Trim to Hide the Base

Petal Trim on Skirt

Decorative Pockets to Suit Your Needs

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