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Pattern EmmanuelTee
Pattern EmmanuelTee
Tee
Pattern
2
Please read carefully through the whole pattern before you start knitting as there will
happen several steps at the same time!
Body
The yoke is worked in stockinette stitch with lace pattern at the back and shaped with raglan increases
before and after the raglan stitches (= in total 8 raglan increases). Additionally, there are increases to shape
the V neck in every 3rd rsr, then in every 2nd rsr and in the end in every rsr (= in total 10 increases). The
additional increases take place as m1l after the first 2 sts of a rsr and as m1r before the last 2 sts of a rsr.
To shape the sleeves, you will leave out the raglan increases for the sleeves and continue to work the raglan
increases for front and back part (= in total 4 raglan increases OR 6 increases if you have to work the
additional increases to shape the V neck).
As soon as you have reached the required number of stitches, the sleeves are separated from the body
and the V neck is closed to the round (CAUTION for sizes 2XL to 4XL: first, the V neck is closed to the round,
then continue to work the yoke for a few more rounds before the sleeves are separated from the body).
Afterwards, the body is finished in stockinette stitch in rounds with the lace pattern at the back and the
stitches are casted off with an i-cord-edging.
Yoke:
Cast on in total 45 | 45 | 51 (51 | 57 | 57) 59 | 59 sts on your 4.5 mm knitting needles and with your
preferred cast on method. The first r after casting on is a wsr, there p all sts and place a SM before and after
the 4 central RS as displayed on the table below:
Size Left Front RS Left Sleeve RS Back RS Right Sleeve RS Right Front Total
XS 1 1 6 1 27 1 6 1 1 45
S 1 1 6 1 27 1 6 1 1 45
M 1 1 8 1 29 1 8 1 1 51
L 1 1 8 1 29 1 8 1 1 51
XL 1 1 10 1 31 1 10 1 1 57
2XL 1 1 10 1 31 1 10 1 1 57
3XL 1 1 10 1 33 1 10 1 1 59
4XL 1 1 10 1 33 1 10 1 1 59
R1 (rsr): k all sts of the left front, m1r, RS, m1l, k all sts of the left sleeve, m1r, RS, m1l, k 0 | 0 | 1 (1 | 2 | 2) 3 | 3
sts of the back part and then the first r of the lace pattern (R1 of the knitting chart) and afterwards 0 | 0 | 1
(1 | 2 | 2) 3 | 3 sts of the back part, m1r, RS, m1l, k all sts of the right sleeve, m1r, RS, m1l, k all sts of the right
front.
R2 (wsr) and all other even rows: P all sts (except the edge sts).
R1 and 2 are repeated steadily. The number of sts which is worked before and after the lace pattern at the
back is growing from right side row to right side row because of the raglan increases. To keep track of
where to start and end the lace pattern, place stitch markers before and after the 27 sts of the lace
pattern.
The additional increases to shape the V neck (m1l after the first 2 sts and m1r before the last 2 sts of a rsr)
take place in the following rows (always in a rsr):
Size Increases at the front parts to shape the V neck in the following rows (always in a rsr)*:
XS 5th, 11th, 17th, 23rd, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 41st, 45th, 49th
S 5th, 11th, 17th, 23rd, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 41st, 45th, 49th, 53rd
3
M 5th, 11th, 17th, 23rd, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 41st, 45th, 49th, 53rd, 55th
L 5th, 11th, 17th, 23rd, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 41st, 45th, 49th, 53rd, 55th, 57th
XL 5th, 11th, 17th, 23rd, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 41st, 45th, 49th, 53rd, 55th, 57th, 59th
2XL 5th, 11th, 17th, 23rd, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 41st, 45th, 49th, 53rd, 55th, 57th, 59th, 61st,
3XL 5th, 11th, 17th, 23rd, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 41st, 45th, 49th, 53rd, 55th, 57th, 59th, 61st, 63rd
4XL 5th, 11th, 17th, 23rd, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 41st, 45th, 49th, 53rd, 55th, 57th, 59th, 61st, 63rd, 65th
*In the next rsr after the last rsr displayed in the table the front parts are closed to the round.
As you can see, the additional increases for the V neck take place in every 3rd rsr (every 6 rs) at first. From R
29 onwards the increases take place in every 2nd rsr (every 4 rs). From R 53 onwards the increases take place
in every rsr (every 2 rs) until the front parts are closed to the round and the sleeves are separated from the
body.
Additionally, from R 47 | 49 | 49 (51 | 53 | 55) 57 | 59 onwards, the raglan increases to shape the sleeves
are left out. This means, you will then work only the raglan increases for front and back part (= in total 4
raglan increases OR 6 increases in case you have to work the additional increases for the V neck).
And last but not least: Remember to work in the lace pattern at the back part!
In the end you should have in total 257 | 271 | 283 (293 | 309) 319 | 331 | 341 sts on your knitting needles
OR the following numbers of sts per part:
Size Left Front RS Left Sleeve RS Back RS Right Sleeve RS Right Front Total
XS 36 1 52 1 77 1 52 1 36 257
S 39 1 54 1 81 1 54 1 39 271
M 41 1 56 1 85 1 56 1 41 283
L 43 1 58 1 87 1 58 1 43 293
XL 45 1 62 1 91 1 62 1 45 309
2XL 47 1 64 1 93 1 64 1 47 319
3XL 49 1 66 1 97 1 66 1 49 331
4XL 51 1 68 1 99 1 68 1 51 341
Please note: In the next rsr the front parts are closed to the round and the sleeves are separated from the
body (CAUTION: this does not apply for sizes 2XL to 4XL! Follow for those sizes the separate instructions
below):
Separating the Sleeves from the Body and Closing the V neck:
Sizes XS – XL: k all sts of the left front, k the RS, put to rest the next 52 | 54 | 56 (58 | 62 | -) - | - sts of the left
sleeve on a separate rope/leftover yarn and cast on in total 1 | 3 | 3 (7 | 9 | -) - | - new sts under the
armpit, k the RS, k all sts of the back part in stockinette stitch and in lace pattern, k the RS, put to rest the
next 52 | 54 | 56 (58 | 62 | -) - | - sts of the right sleeve on a separate rope/leftover yarn and cast on in
total 1 | 3 | 3 (7 | 9 | -) - | - new sts under the armpit, k the RS, k the sts of the right front and cast on in total
5 | 3 | 3 (1 | 1 | -) - | - sts after the last st. Place a SM – this is your new beginning of the round. Now you
should have in total 160 | 172 | 180 (192 | 204 | -) - | - sts on your knitting needles.
Sizes 2XL – 4XL: k all sts, work in the raglan increases before and after the RS on front and back part (but no
raglan increases for the V neck or the sleeves!) and work the sts of the back part in lace pattern. After the
last st, cast on - | - | - (- | - | 1) 1 | 1 new st. Place a SM, this is your new beginning of the r. Now you should
have in total - | - | - (- | - | 324) 336 | 346 sts on your knitting needles. Now work 2 more right side rounds
with raglan increases (= in total 4 rs) in stockinette stitch (= in total - | - | - (- | - | 332) 334 | 354 sts). Then,
put to rest the - | - | - (- | - | 64) 66 | 68 sts for each sleeve on a separate rope/leftover yarn and cast on -
| - | - (- | - | 9) 11 | 15 new sts under each armpit. Now you should have in total - | - | - (- | - | 222) 234
| 248 sts on your knitting needles.
4
Finishing the Body:
Now work for in total 30 | 30 | 32 (32 | 33 | 33) 34 | 34 cm all sts in stockinette stitch - but remember to work
in the lace pattern at the back part!
If you prefer, you are welcome to make your tee longer than recommended in the pattern, but please note
that you then might need more yarn than indicated in the pattern.
After you have worked the body until the recommended (or your personal preferred) length, the body is
casted off with an i-cord-edging as follows:
Change to 3.5 mm knitting needles and k one more r. Additionally I recommend to move the beginning of
the round to the side (under the armpit), so that the beginning and the end of the i-cord-edging will be as
invisible as possible).
Work as follows:
1. To start with the i-cord edging, use a separate circular needle or DPNS (3.5 mm) and cast on 3 sts
provisionally with your preferred cast on method. Slide the sts to the other end of your circular
knitting needle/DPN and return the needle to the left hand.
2. Knit around the body as follows: *Knit 2, knit 2 together through the back loop (1 provisional cast-on-
stitch and 1 stitch of the body), slip all stitches to the left side of your needle with the yarn on the
wrong side of your work*. Repeat from * to * until all sts are casted off. Cast off the i-cord sts too.
Break the yarn.
After you have finished the body with an i-cord-edging, you are going to work an applied i-cord-edging
around the neckline of your tee. Therefore, I recommend to pick up 1 st per st and 2 sts per 3 rs along the
neckline with your 3.5 mm knitting needles. If your knitting tension is tight, I recommend to pick up 1 st per 1
r. If your knitting tension is loose, I recommend to pick up 1 st per 2 rs. This means, your total stitch counting
depends on your individual knitting tension.
Then, follow the instructions of how to cast off sts with an i-cord edging, until you have casted off all stitches
of the neckline.
5
Lace Pattern at the Back Part:
Additionally to the raglan increases of the yoke you work a romantic lace pattern at the back part – starting
in the first rsr with raglan increases.
Therefore, follow the knitting chart below. The lace pattern is worked in every rsr, p all sts in wsr.
Knitting direction
= knit 1
Please note: R1-12 show the lace
= make 1 yarn over pattern in total. These rows are
repeated steadily over the whole
= slip 1 st knitwise, knit the next st, pull length of the back. Please note that
the slipped st over the st worked the knitting chart displays only the
rsr! In wsr, p all sts.
= knit 2 together
Important Notes How to Read the Chart and to Work in the Lace Pattern:
1 box is 1 st in 1 r. There are only displayed the rsr. In wsr, p all sts. The knitting chart is read from right to left
and from bottom top (= your knitting direction). I recommend to place a SM before and after the lace
pattern so that you can keep track where the lace pattern starts and ends, when the back part is growing
due to the raglan increases.
The lace pattern is knitted in the middle 27 sts of the back part. This means for the different sizes:
R1 (rsr): make 1 left after the RS, k 0 | 0 | 1 (1 | 2 | 2) 3 | 3 sts, knit the first row of the lace pattern, knit 0 | 0
| 1 (1 | 2 | 2) 3 | 3 sts, make 1 right before the next RS. You can place sts markers before and after the 27
sts to highlight the beginning and the end of the lace pattern. All sts of the back part before and after the
lace pattern are knit sts, purl sts in wrong side rows.
R2 (wsr) and all even rows: p all sts.
R3: make 1 left after the RS, k 1 | 1 | 2 (2 | 3 | 3) 4 | 4 sts, knit the third row of the lace pattern, knit 1 | 1 | 2
(2 | 3 | 3) 4 | 4 sts, make 1 right before the next RS.
R5: make 1 left after the RS, k 2 | 2 | 3 (3 | 4 | 4) 5 | 5 sts, knit the fifth row of the lace pattern, knit 2 | 2 | 3
(3 | 4 | 4) 5 | 5 sts, make 1 right before the next RS.
R7: make 1 left after the RS, k 3 | 3 | 4 (4 | 5 | 5) 6 | 6 sts, knit the seventh row of the lace pattern, knit 3 | 3
| 4 (4 | 5 | 5) 6 | 6 sts, make 1 right before the next RS.
6
As you may have noticed, the number of knit stitches increases from right side row to right side row due to
the raglan increases. If you have placed the SM, you won’t miss the beginning or the end of the lace
pattern.
Sleeves
Pick up the resting 52 | 54 | 56 (58 | 62 | 64) 66 | 68 sleeve stitches with your 4.5 mm knitting needles and
pick up in total 1 | 3 | 3 (7 | 9 | 9) 11 | 15 new sts under the armpits directly out of the body. Place a SM,
this is your new beginning of the r. Now you should have in total 53 | 57 | 59 (65 | 71 | 75) 77 | 83 sts on
your knitting needles.
Work for 6 cm all sts in stockinette stitch in rounds using the Magic-Loop-Technique, short knitting needles or
DPNs.
Then, cast off all sleeve stitches with an i-cord edging following the instructions for the i-cord-edging of the
body and the V neck.
7
Completion
Wet Block the tee and let it dry flat. Weave in all ends.
I would be thrilled to see your results! If you like, share them on Instagram with
the Hashtag #emmanueltee and my tag @kolibri.by_johanna