Imperial TIE-Fighter Square

Notes:
! This pattern was created by Mallory Walleck and is available for free on
Ravelry.com. Please do not sell the pattern itself or reprint it without crediting the author.

! Using a G6/4mm hook and three different colors of worsted weight yarn, the
finished product measures approximately 10.5 inches. Using a different hook or adding/
subtracting rows will allow you to achieve a different sized result.

! You will need to carry the yarn throughout the majority of this pattern in order to
switch between colors (alternatively, you can manually switch colors, but this could
prove to be more difficult and time consuming). To carry the stitch, hold the color you
are not currently using behind or on top of the loops of the row you are working; this
way the opposing color gets incorporated into your stitches.

! Always switch colors during the last stitch of the color you are currently using. To
switch colors, begin the stitch with the current color, waiting until the final yarn over to
change color strands. For example, in a double crochet: yarn over with strand A, insert
hook into stitch, yarn over with strand A and pull up a loop, yarn over with strand A and
pull through 2 loops on your hook, drop strand A and yarn over with strand B, drawing
through the last loops on the hook; continue with B until requested to switch back to A.
For a single crochet: insert hook into stitch, yarn over with strand A and pull up a loop,
drop strand A and yarn over with strand B, pulling B loop through both loops on hook.

Stitches and Abbreviations:

! All terminology referenced throughout this pattern is based on American crochet.
If you follow British/Australian convention, you will need to look up a conversion chart,
because the same names do not reference the same stitches.

Single crochet: SC
Half-double crochet: HDC
Double crochet: DC
Triple or Treble crochet: TC
Chain: ch
Slip stitch: sl
Stitch: st
Skip: sk
Space: sp

! 2DC versus DC2: 2DC indicates that you should double crochet twice in the next
stitch, whereas DC2 indicates that you should double crochet in each of the next two
stitches.

! To perform a Beg. Puff st: Ch2, *yarn over, insert into indicated st, yarn over and
pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on the hook* 3 times, yarn over
and draw through the remaining loops on the hook.

! To perform a Puff st: *yarn over, insert into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a
loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on the hook* 4 times, yarn over and draw
through the remaining loops on the hook.

Materials:
! As stated above, you will need a size G6/4mm hook and three separate colors of
worsted weight yarn. Pictured is color A: Ivory, color B: Charcoal, and color C: Ebony,
but feel free to use whatever colors suit your needs or preferences. You will not need
the entire skein of any of the three colors.

Pattern:

I apologize for the lack of pictures accompanying these instructions. However, I feel this
pattern is a little more straight-forward than the Imperial Logo Square, so the visual aid
should not be necessary.
1) With color A: ch6 and sl into the 6th ch from hook to form ring. ch4, *DC, ch1* 11X. Sl
in 3rd ch of beginning ch4 to join. Finish off.

2) With color B: Attach in a DC from previous round. Ch 3, *2DC in ch1 sp* 11X. DC in
last ch sp, sl in top of beginning ch3.

3) Ch3, DC in same st, ch2, DC in next st. *2DC, ch2, DC in next st* around. Sl to join.

4) Sl into ch2 sp. Beg Puff st. *Ch4, Puff st* 11X. Ch4, sl to join.

5) (Attaching color C where you just joined the rounds) with color C: Ch3, DC in same
st, 4DC in ch sp. *2DC in puff st, 4DC in ch sp* twice. With color B, 2DC in puff st,
4DC in ch sp. With color C,*2DC in puff st, 4DC in ch sp* 5X. With color B, 2DC in
puff st, 4DC in ch sp. With color C,*2DC in puff st, 4DC in ch sp* twice. Sl to join.

6) With color C: ch3, DC in same st and next 5 st. *2DC, DC5* twice. With color B:
*2DC, ch1, sk1, 2DC, DC, ch1, sk1, 2DC*. With color C: *2DC, DC5* 5X. With color
B: *2DC, ch1, sk1, 2DC, DC, ch1, sk1, 2DC*. With color C: *2DC, DC5* twice. Sl to
join.

7) With color C: ch1, *2SC in same sp, SC6* 3X. With color B: ch3, sk2, SC in ch sp,
SC3, SC in ch sp. With color C: ch 2 *2SC, SC6* 5X. With color B: ch3, sk2, SC in ch
sp, SC3, SC in ch sp. With color C: ch2 *2SC, SC6* twice. Sl to join.

8) With color C: ch3, DC in same st, DC15. With color B: *2DC, ch2, 2DC* in same st.
DC in next 7 st. 3DC in ch3, DC in next 5 st, 2DC in ch sp, DC in next 7 st. *2DC,
ch2, 2DC* in same st. With color C: DC in next 24 st. With color B: *2DC, ch2, 2DC*
in same st. DC in next 7 st. 3DC in ch3, DC in next 5 st, 2DC in ch sp, DC in next 7
st. *2DC, ch2, 2DC* in same st. With color C: DC in next 8 st. Sl to join.

9) With color C: ch1, HDC, SC4, HDC4, DC4. With color B: TC4, *2TC, ch2, 2TC* in ch2
sp. TC4, DC4, HDC4, SC4, HDC4, DC4, TC4. *2TC, ch2, 2TC* in ch2 sp. TC4. With
color C: DC4, HDC4, SC4, HDC4, DC4. With color B: TC4. *2TC, ch2 2TC* in ch2 sp.
TC4, DC4, HDC4, SC4, DC4, TC4. *2TC, ch2, 2TC* in ch2 sp. TC4. Finish off color
B. With color C: DC4, HDC3, sl to first HDC to join.

10) Sl to ch2 sp. *Ch3, DC, ch2, 2DC* in corner sp. {*Ch2, sk2, DC2* 8X. *2DC, ch2,
2DC* in corner sp.} Repeat between { } twice more. *Ch2, sk2, DC2* 8X. Sl to join in
beginning ch3. [It may be a little difficult to crochet around the slip stitches you made
at the beginning of this row. However, if your results to this point are like mine, slip
stitching to the corner space will help stabilize a little of the curvature still remaining
at the top of the square.]

11) Sl to corner sp. *Ch3, DC, ch2, 2DC* in corner sp. {*Ch2, 2DC in ch2 sp of previous
round* 8X. Ch2, sk2, DC2. *2DC, ch2, 2DC* in corner sp.} Repeat between { } twice
 more. *Ch2, 2DC in ch2 sp of previous round* 8X. Ch2, sk2, DC2. Finish off, weave
in ends.

12) With color A, sl around the posts of the DCs in round two. Finish off, weave in ends.

If you crochet tightly, or are using a slightly stiffer yarn you may need to shape the
square before joining it to other squares.