ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II

CORE COMPETENCIES

Core 1. RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN

LO 1. Healthy Stocks and Suitable Housing

Act. 1- Identify breed/strains breeds

The Poultry Site presents five of the most popular native chicken breeds in

the Philippines.
 The Banaba. © Gregg Yan.
 The Bolinao. © Gregg Yan.
 The Darag. © Gregg Yan.
 The Joloano. © Gregg Yan.
 The Paraokan. © Gregg Yan.
 A farmer with Camarines chickens. © Gregg Yan.
 Free-range chickens. © Gregg Yan.

What is a native chicken in the Philippines?

A native chicken has numerous superior characteristics. Some of the popular native
chicken breeds include Banaba from Batangas, Bolinao from Pangasinan, Camarines
from Bicol, Darag from Iloilo, Joloano from Basilan and Paraoakan from Palawan.
What is the most common breed of native chicken raised in the Philippines?
Darag

Darag is arguably the most

popular native chicken breed for
backyard raisers in the Philippines.
Darag, a native chicken breed found
in Iloilo, Panay, Negros, and
Guimaras has captivated the taste
buds of both locals and foreigners
alike.

Is the Philippine native chicken classified as breed?

The Philippine Native makes up a large proportion of total chicken numbers in
the country and has long been part of the natural environment. It is believed to be a
descendant of the Red Jungle Fowl as are most chicken breeds world-wide.Native
chickens are typically raised in the backyards of rural households. They are commonly
grown in small numbers of up to about 24 hens for egg production. Some farmers
raise native chickens for meat, barter, or sale as an additional source of income for the
household.
Lists of Philippine Native Chicken Breeds

Before imported breeds arrived in the Philippines, we have Tagalog and Bisaya.
These are the local terms for our native breeds. If you are in Luzon, you call it Tagalog,
and if you are in Visayas and bigger part of Mindanao, you call it Bisaya. Both of them
refer to the native chicken that we often see roaming around our rural neighborhood

1. Darag

Darag is arguably the most

popular native chicken breed for backyard raisers
in the Philippines. Prominent yellowish-brown
plumage for females and shiny red for males,
black tail feathers, and grey shanks describe the
Darag. Best known for its unique flavor, taste,
and meat texture, it has become famous as an
alternative enterprise for commercial chicken.
2. Banaba

Banaba is an indigenous chicken found in

the Quezon and Batangas provinces, the
northern part of the Philippines. Banaba fowl is a
straight-combed breed. Black-breasted with red-
orange hackle feathers in roosters. Hens are
wheaten in color, straight-combed. Black Tail
feathers on both sexes. Straight-comb with
bright red earlobes; can have white earlobes.
Stands upright with slate-colored shanks.

3. Bolinao

Bolinao chickens are predominantly found

in the province of Pangasinan hence it is named
after the Bolinao town. The adult male has red
plumage with black breast and tail feathers. The
hackle feathers are bright orange. The feet range
in color from slate to gray and have usually
straight spurs. The earlobes are bright red. The
female has a light brown plumage with black tail
feathers and yellowish-brown back. The earlobes
are usually white and the feet are slightly slate.
Both sexes have well-placed wings which are
carried close to the body. Roosters are popularly
raised for cockfighting.

4. Camarines

Camarines chicken breed originated from

Bicol, particularly in the Camarines area. The
Camarines chicken is closely similar to Barred
Plymouth Rock in color only it has a reddish barred
plumage. Camarines is one of the tallest and
largest native chicken breeds next to Paraoakan.
Camarines is bigger, taller, and heavier compared
to other native chicken breeds, it is least popular
and one reason could be the rarity of its pure
breed.
 5. Joloanon

Joloanon is a native of the Zamboanga

Peninsula. It is a tall chicken breed with
tricolor plumage. Its rooster is very popular
among gamefowl breeders as they use it to
cross with imported gamefowls.

Getting to Know the Native Chickens in The Philippines

 
Darag Hens
DARAG ROOSTER

Bolinao Rooster Bolinao Hen

 Camarines Rooster Camarines Hen

Banaba Hen Banaba Rooster

DR. SYNAN S. BAGUIO, OIC Livestock Research Division, PCAARRD.

Our native chickens have been with us for no one knows how long. Yet they have
always been regarded as backyard fowls that are not produced in volumes that will
approximate even just a small fraction of the white imported chickens.
 But there is a great potential in paying attention to these indigenous resources
because they can be harnessed to provide a decent source of livelihood for even the
most ordinary farm families.

As reported by Dr. Synan Baguio, OIC of the Livestock Research Division of

PCAARD, Darag has been purified after several years of breeding and selection.The
modern Darag is now more or less uniform in the color and pattern of its plumage, body
conformation and size, predictability of growth, adaptability to natural environment
(resilience to extremes of climate and foraging behavior), and other traits that contribute
to predictability of performance. There is today a Darag chicken raisers’ association in
Panay that could push the commercial production of the fowl to meet the big demand for
its meat and eggs. Their production, however, is still short of the demand. This means
there’s a very good business opportunity for investors big and small.

Dr. Baguio has outlined at a recent forum a practical approach to making a viable
native chicken project as a business. This starts with the acquisition of the right
breeding stocks which should be products of organized selection and breeding. The
initial stocks may be grouped into breeding families of 10 hens and two roosters. This
will avoid inbreeding.

Dr. Baguio suggests the “like-to-like” breeding. This means that the birds of
similar appearance and traits are crossed. This technique produces chickens that are
uniform in plumage color and pattern, uniform body conformation, predictable
reproductive and production performance, and consistent product quality.

Sustainable breeding, according to Dr. Baguio starts with selection of the eggs
for hatching. Choose the eggs that are most prevalent in shape and color. Select the
chicks that are healthy and of the same color patterns. The desired weight of day-old
native chicks is 38-45 grams

Chicken Brooder House

Observe chicks’ behavior since this is a good indication of brooding temperature.

If it is too hot, chicks tend to stay away from the source of light. If it is too cold, chicks
tend to stay very close to the brooder. A good indicator that you have achieved proper
brooder temperature (adequately balanced between hot and cold) is when chicks are
equally distributed in the brooder house.

Caring for Grower Native Chicken

After a month in the brooder house, chicks are transferred to a bigger place on
the ground (hardening stage). The cage, which should measure 1 foot per head, is used
until the chick reaches 2 ½ months. This process allows the chicks to adapt and get
stronger before they are let loose in the range. The growing stage is from 2-5 months of
age. The growing area should have grass and legumes to minimize the cost of feeds
and ensure good health of the grower chicks. Immunization against pests (Avian
Pest/Newcastle Disease) at 28-30 days of age and every fourth month thereafter should
be done. Coordinate with a veterinarian or technician for proper immunization.

Housing

Native chickens should be provided with ample housing structures where they
can roost during the night, find shelter during rainy weather, and build nests when they
are of laying age. Provide adequate range type housing for growers and breeders with
1-2 square meters per bird. Put birds of uniform age in a house to prevent fighting and
disease outbreak. For enhanced breeder egg production, place the birds in separate
cages with nests and range. They should also be fed with laying rations mixed with local
feed materials such as rice bran, rice hull, copra, and corn.

Chicken Breed Selection

There are various reasons people raise chickens: for eggs, meat, show and
exhibition or simply to enjoy caring for and watching chicks grow. For some, raising
chickens is a hobby while others see it as a sustainable part of living. This fact
sheet will explore characteristics of chicken breeds to help select the right breed for
you.

What are your goals for raising chickens?

Before selecting the breed of chick to purchase, you need to ask yourself
several questions. The first one is: What are your needs for your flock? This is
important because you are looking at a commitment of potentially seven to eight
years, which is the average lifespan of a chicken. Other questions include:

 What is your end goal for raising chickens? 

 Do you want a certain type of egg, or are you looking for meat production
chickens?
 Is your goal egg production, egg and meat production, or just meat
production? 
 Are you interested in raising chickens for show purposes and production is
not important? 
Each breed of chicken has traits that make them better suited for exhibition, egg,
meat or dual purpose production. 
Terminology

Being able to talk “chicken” is important. Here are a few terms used for poultry:

 Hen: a female adult chicken 

 Rooster: a male adult chicken 
 Chick: a baby chicken of either sex
 Pullet: a female chick (immature chicken)
 Cockerel: a male chick (immature chicken) 
 Broody: a hen inclined or wishing to incubate eggs
 Non-Setting: a hen that does not have the inclination or wish to incubate
eggs
 Dual Purpose: chicken practical for meat and egg production

Egg Production

All hens will lay eggs; however, their egg production will vary. A rooster is
not needed for egg production. Hens will lay non-fertile eggs without a rooster, a
rooster is only needed if you want fertile eggs in order to hatch chicks. A hen
usually lays one egg every 26 hours; although, there may be days when a hen will
not lay an egg at all. As the hen ages, the egg size will increase; however, the shell
quality and egg production will decrease. Hens that are producing eggs will need
extra calcium in their feed to support shell development. Egg colors vary between
breeds. Egg colors include: white, various shades of brown, or other colors such as
blue and green. The best egg laying breeds tend to be the smaller bodied breeds
such as Ancona, Leghorn and Minorca. 

The breed used the most for commercial egg laying is typically White
Leghorns. These birds are intended to produce eggs at a higher rate. Commercial
producers only keep layers for two years before replacing the hen. White Leghorns
are not usually the best choice for the novice backyard poultry enthusiast as they
can be loud, nervous and occasionally aggressive towards people.  

Egg and Meat Production

Some chicken breeds are referred to as dual-purpose breeds that will lay an
adequate amount of eggs and grow large enough for meat production. The
downside, though, is that the chicken will not mature quickly like other breeds of
meat chickens. Hybrid birds, also called sex-linked, tend to be good dual-purpose,
but hybrid birds cannot reproduce. 

Meat Production
Chickens that are bred solely for meat production are generally poor egg
layers because these birds are faster growing. Because of their faster growth, meat
birds require a larger amount of feed daily with a higher protein content compared
to egg-laying birds. The fastest growing birds are a Cornish chicken crossed with a
White Rock, which is referred to as a Cornish Cross. Using good livestock care
practices, producers will have fryers at approximately seven weeks weighing 4 to 6
pounds, reaching roasting stage of 6 to 10 pounds in eight to 12 weeks.

Just like commercial egg layers, commercial meat birds have been selected
for desired characteristics to be able to grow quickly with high feed efficiency.
Similar to White Leghorns, the breeds used in commercial production are not
usually the best choice for the backyard poultry enthusiast.

Shows and Exhibition of Poultry

Shows offer an opportunity to display

any breed of chicken and are becoming
popular in the Midwest. The American
Poultry Association (APA) has a publication
called The American Standard of Perfection
that has a compl ete description of all the
breeds and varietiesof domestic chickens.
This publication describes the appropriate
breed characteristics needed for birds to be
shown in exhibition.

How to Identify Chickens?

1. Body Shape. Body shape of chickens vary

according to their production purpose.
2. Comb & Wattles. Different chicken
breeds have different combs and wattles.
3. Size. Different sized chicken breeds can be
seen around the globe.
4. Feathers. Every chicken breed has special
types of feathers.
5. Shanks

How many chicken do I need for a dozen of eggs per week?

In general, you can expect a dozen eggs per week for every three chickens. So

if you buy two dozen eggs per week, six hens would likely fit your needs. It's not
recommended to keep fewer than three chickens at a time because chickens are
social animal and they need friends.

Why do we need to practice selection in poultry?

While practicing the artificial selection, care is taken to minimize the

inbreeding, and its related consequences in the population. ... Stock should have low
mortality and high adaptability to different environments.” Layer breeders
apply selection to improve over 30 traits important for commercial egg production.

What is the basis of selection?

Only purposeful selection will permit an increased frequency of desirable genes.

The amount of genetic improvement gained depends on four factors: (1) heritability of
the trait, (2) amount of selection pressure, (3) genetic association of selected traits,
and (4) generation interval.

What is breeding in poultry?

Objectives of Poultry Breeding • To increase annual egg prodution potenial of

hen • To increase meat production per broiler • To increase feed conversion efficiency
for more egg and meat per bird • To increase quality of meat and egg.

Can you breed rooster from his daughter?

Yes, but only in the short term. In livestock husbandry, what we'd usually call
inbreeding.

Sabrina Schirtzinger, Extension Educator, Agriculture and Natural Resources, Knox County
Tim McDermott, Extension Educator, Agriculture and Natural Resources, Hocking County  

Act. 2. Select Healthy Chicks

Here are ways to spot a healthy chick:

1. They're alert and active – may be cheeping softly, looking for food, and will move
away from you when approached.
2. If chicks are happy, healthy and warm, they won't huddle together when awake.
3. Bright-eyed – chicks with a blank stare, crusted eyes or always sleepy may not
be healthy.
How can you tell your chickens are happy?
1.Activity. Happy chickens are active roaming about looking in all sorts of nooks
and crannies for interesting morsels. Unhappy or ill chickens tend to stand still
or stare into corners. If your chickens are up and about, roaming and
scratching they are content.

2.Shiny feathers. Vibrant, healthy feathers have a sheen that gives chickens a

sleek appearance that serves to protect birds from the sun, rain and weather.

3.Perching and roosting. Being able to fly up to roosts is a good sign chickens
are healthy and chickens will be happier sleeping on a roost at night.

4.Preening is a natural activity that chickens indulge in when they are well fed
and content.

5.Regular production of solid shelled eggs with bright coloured yolks.

6.Dust bathing and laying around in the sunshine. Chickens are flock animals
and doing things as a flock helps with bonding and strengthening the pecking
order.

7.Happy chicken sounds. This can be anything from a quiet trilling to a purr,

almost like a cat, to endearing squeaking, a bit like a rusty gate.

8.They run to greet you when you show up. Chickens have accepted you as
part of the flock and are comfortable around you. I sometimes feel like the pied
piper when I'm in the field with my birds and they're all following me around.

9.There is no stress in the flock.

Caring for Chicks

Caring for newly hatched chicks is a very important part of native chicken
farming. The most delicate period of a chicken’s life begins from the time it is hatched
up to one month of age. According to studies, this is the period when many chicks get
sick and die.

To encourage hens to resume egg laying, it is best to separate the chicks from
the hens immediately. Chicks are transferred to a brooder house, a place where chicks
are confined from the day of hatching until such time when they can survive without
added heat. This structure protects chicks from rain, strong winds, changing weather
conditions, and predators. A medium-sized brooder house that has dimensions of 2 ft. x
3 ft. x 1 ft. can house 20-30 chicks from day 1 to about 3-4 weeks.
The following are some tips in caring for the chicks:

1. Use a 1-watt incandescent bulb or light per head to provide sufficient heat.
2. Ensure availability of water and feeds that can be easily accessed by the
chicks. It is best for the chicks to feed and drink water immediately upon arrival in
the brooder house.
3. Use piles of old newspapers as floor cover or absorbent litter material where
feeds can be scattered until chicks are 3-5 days old. Each day, remove the top
layer of the pile to ensure that the feeds are new and the litter material is clean.
4. After 3-5 days, there is no more need for floor cover. Instead, use a shallow
feeder like a bamboo pole split in half or other designs made of wood, plastic, or
galvanized iron.
5. Immunize the birds against pests from age 7-9 days. Ask a veterinarian or
technician about the proper ways of immunization.

Feeding

Native chickens may be fed with regular feeds such as ground corn, rice hull, rice
bran, copra meal, rice grits, corn bran, and even kitchen leftovers like rice, bread, and
desicated coconut. It is also recommended that chicks be given commercial starter
feeds from hatching up to 1 month of age.

When the chick reaches 1 ½ months old, feeds may be gradually modified. The
amount of commercial feeds may be reduced while regular feeds may be increased.
The chicks should also be trained to feed on available sources in their surroundings.

Native chickens may be fed with feeds mixed at home with 50% rice bran, 20%
corn, and 30% copra. If desired, the feed concentration may also be 75% of the said
mix and 25% commercial feeds.

Ensure that the feeder is filled no more than 1/3 its capacity to avoid feed
wastage.

Providing Health Care

The following are some guidelines to prevent diseases of native chickens:

– Ensure cleanliness of the housing area, feeders, waterers, and any other
equipment prior to introducing a new flock.
– Provide the chickens with sufficient and balanced food nutrients to increase
their resistance to diseases.
– Administer vaccines for Avian Pest and Avian Pox.

Treatment for Common Diseases of Chickens

  Respiratory disease: Confine sick birds for 1 week and put medication in the
water. Deprive the birds of water for 2-3 hours before allowing them to drink.
 Fowl Pox: Put tincture of iodine on the wounds every day. Provide the birds with
medicated water. Administer vaccine at 2 months of age to prevent Fowl Pox.
 Avian Pest (NCD): Birds should be vaccinated against Newcastle Disease at 1
week of age or between 7-10 days of age; revaccinate at 28-30 days of age to
prevent contracting pests since Avian Pest can wipe out a whole flock.
Immediately separate sick birds from the healthy ones and confine them in
another house/pen. Birds that die from sickness should be buried in the ground
or burned.
 Consult a veterinarian or technician once any unusual health condition is
observed.

How to take care native chicken?

Native chickens should be provided with ample housing structures where they

can roost during the night, find shelter during rainy weather, and build nests when they
are of laying age. Provide adequate range type housing for growers and breeders with
1-2 square meters per bird.

Act. 3 - Determine suitable site for chicken house

Site Selection Factors for new Poultry Facilities

Today, poultry farmers must be aware of concerns related to (1)

environmental issues like water quality, odors and flies, litter applications on
fields and high soil phosphorous levels; (2) nearby neighbors and public areas
like churches, parks and businesses; and (3) laws and regulations that affect
farming operations.

Future poultry farmers must place greater emphasis on farmstead

planning than has been done in the past. Considerations in site selection for
buildings must include utilities, roads, topography, prevailing winds, existing
buildings, neighbors, public areas, and state and federal government laws and
regulations.

Neighbors – The location of nearby homes should be the number one

consideration when evaluating potential locations for poultry facilities. Good
neighbors can quickly become enemies if the building site is too close to nearby
homes. Some poultry companies require prospective poultry farmers to discuss
building plans with their neighbors before construction starts. Even if
discussions with neighbors are not required, this practice is recommended.
Reaction from neighbors may force alternate sites to be chosen.

Setbacks – How far should poultry houses be set back from residences,
property lines, public areas, public roads, streams, wells, sinkholes and flood
plains?

Currently, Tennessee does not have any laws or regulations that govern
setbacks for agricultural building sites. However, most poultry industry
companies have self-imposed setback guidelines that need to be considered.
These guidelines will help reduce problems associated with odors, dust,
feathers, noise and water quality.

Topography 

Whether the site is level, gently rolling or hilly will determine the amount of
grade work that must be done to get a level area for the buildings. Grade work
can add substantially to the total construction cost. Avoid low-lying areas near
streams with flooding potential. Preferably, the topography will allow the long
axis of the poultry house to be located in an east-west direction. This helps to
minimize the amount of direct sunlight that would enter through the sidewalls of
the houses. Storm Water – Adequate drainage for storm water control must be
considered because of the large amount of roof area. Storm water runoff should
not be allowed to create erosion problems around the houses. Grass-covered
water run-off ditches will help reduce potential erosion problems. The immediate
area outside the buildings must have sufficient slope to keep runoff water out of
the buildings.

Prevailing Wind 

Prevailing wind direction must be considered when wind currents flow

from the chicken house toward any residence. Odors from poultry houses must
be given adequate time and distance to dissipate before reaching a residence.
The distance from the poultry house location to any residence would need to be
greater if prevailing winds were toward the residence. Since poultry companies
require mechanical ventilation in all poultry houses; locating the poultry house to
take advantage of prevailing wind direction for natural ventilation is no longer
important.

Wind Shed 

Wind shed is a term which describes wind flow pattern on the downside of
an existing building (Figure 1). To help minimize complaints by neighbors,
strong consideration must be given to keep nearby homes out of the windshed
area.

Utilities 

Some questions about utilities must be answered to help determine

building site location. Is electricity readily available or will the local electric utility
run new lines at a reasonable cost? Is water available from wells or a municipal
water system or both? It is important to have a backup water system. Is the
quality and quantity of the well water suitable for a poultry operation? Is propane
and/or natural gas available at competitive prices?

Roads 

The condition of public roads must be adequate to allow feed trucks,

chick- delivery vehicles and live-haul trucks access to the buildings during all
times of the year. Are there any weight limits or bridges that would restrict
access to the farm? How much will it cost to construct an access road from the
public road to the buildings? Can the heavily loaded trucks travel easily on the
access road in all types of weather?

Future Expansion 
 Does the potential building site allow the possibility for further expansion?
Often a poultry farmer will start with two houses and want to build an additional
two houses at a later time.

Other Buildings 

The building site needs to have adequate land area available for other
buildings, such as dead-bird composting and litter storage. These buildings
should be out of public view if possible. The buildings need to be located close
enough to the production facilities to minimize travel time, but far enough away
to reduce possible disease transmission. A distance of about 100 feet is a
reasonable compromise.

Litter Utilization 

Is there sufficient land available on the farm to properly utilize the litter as
fertilizer, or will some of the litter be moved offsite? Approximately 300 tons of
litter will be produced each year on a 50,000-bird capacity broiler farm. A
nutrient management plan will help determine if adequate land area is available
for litter utilization. If not, plans must be made to remove excess litter offsite.

By Charles Goan, Professor, Animal Science, University of Tennessee - Farmers considering

building poultry facilities on their farms must give considerable thought to the location of the new
structures.

Act. 4- Prepare chicken house design

Housing
The housing depends on the type of poultry farming. Layers are kept in battery cages
while broilers stay in deep litter room. Some use coup boxes, barns free range system.
The need heating system, ventilation and space.

Building a chicken coop takes time, at least some skills, and a lot of careful
planning. Before you start hammering, pull out some graph paper and make sure you
address everything a chicken needs to stay healthy and safe.

Coop size and shape

Each chicken needs at least 2 square feet of indoor space, or 3-6 square feet in
an outdoor run. For example, for indoor chickens, you should multiply the number of
chickens by 2 to get the minimum square footage.
Ventilation
 Chicken coops need good ventilation, through windows, roof vents, exhaust
fans, and/or other means. Usually, cool air enters near the floor, is warmed, then
exits near the top. Taller coops will require both top and bottom ventilation points.
Roosts
 These considerations protect your chickens from injury. Make sure to consider
cleaning in your design. Options for keeping a clean roost area include a slide-out
pan or door, a pit, or a flat board that can be removed and scraped.
Shelter
A coop must keep chickens warm and dry, and therefore healthy. Chickens must
have access to a shelter and a windbreak (temporary, natural, or permanent) to
protect from winter winds.
Sturdy floor
Sagging floors are uncomfortable for the chickens and look unsightly.
Protection from predators
Predators are a big problem for urban, suburban, and rural coops. At the very
least, the chickens should have a predator-proof shelter at night, when they’re most
vulnerable.
Temperature control
 Chickens are most comfortable when temperatures range between 40 and 85
degrees Fahrenheit. Extremes — cold or hot — can be dire. Make sure to choose
chickens that are well-suited to your climate, and take advantage of natural
resources (shade, time of year). In hotter climates, provide higher ceilings, extra
space, and good ventilation.
Lighting
Light — either natural or artificial — is necessary for chickens to eat, drink, and
even lay eggs. An artificial light source makes evening chores possible, keeps hens
more active in winter, and help defend from predators.
Clean surroundings
 Good drainage in the outside areas prevents moisture (and odor) build-up. Many
chicken-keepers install hard-surfaced floors that can be hosed (especially in hot, dry
climates) or sand or gravel that keeps the birds’ feet clean. Avoid slippery flooring
such as tile, paper, or metal, especially for meat birds.

Act. 5 - Prepare house equipment installation design

The basic requirements for poultry housing are:

 space;
 ventilation;
 light; and.
 protection (from weather and predators).
https://www.coursehero.com/file

LO 2. Set-up Cage Equipment

Act. 1. Install house equipment

List of Poultry Farm Equipment

Before starting a poultry farm it is important to have a list of poultry farm equipment. A
standard poultry farm uses many tools and equipment. They are meant for housing the
birds, care or butchering.

Incubation Equipment
The number of equipment and tools used in poultry farming is huge. Let us start from
the hatching of the eggs into small adorable chicks. The equipment list to run a
successful hatchery is setter machine to test humidity and temperature.

The farmer needs a hatcher or incubator. There are three types of incubators the
tunnels, walk in or vertical fan incubators. The turning mechanisms in some incubators
require compressed air system.

Hatchery automation equipment is rack washers high pressure pumps and egg transfer
machines. Others include hatchery tray washer, chick box washer, waste removal
system and ovo vaccination equipment.

Poultry Hatchery Equipment

 setter machine
 tunnel, walk in vertical fan
incubators
 compressed air system
 rack washers
 high pressure pumps
 egg transfer machines
 tray washer
 chick box washer
 waste removal system
 ovo vaccination equipment

Egg Handling Equipment

Eggs are delicate and crack easily if handled wrong. Equipment to handle eggs
are hatching egg transfer machines like vacuum egg lifts. The person needs to stock
hundreds of egg trays. A light device to check the internal structure of an egg in a
hatchery program is the candler.

 vacuum egg lifts

 egg trays
 candler

Brooder Equipment
The small day old chicks that hatch are brooders. They require lots of warmth,
light and space. Common tools are reflectors, stoves, gas brooder or electric brooder.
 More include infra red bulbs, hovers and chick guard. The chick guard is to
restrict the movement of the chicks. The farmer could also introduce electric heater with
temperature adjust.

 Reflectors  infra-red bulbs

 Stoves  hovers
 gas brooder or electric  chick guard
brooder

Feeding Equipment
The feeding equipment is either manual or automatic. The list includes automatic
or semi automatic feeder. You have the adjustable linear feeder, shell grit box, semi-
automatic circular feeder.

 Manual feeder  shell grit box

 Automatic feeder  semi-automatic
 semi automatic feeder  circular feeder
 adjustable linear feeder

Water Equipment
Water equipment is filers, water softeners, water heaters. Pan/jar,, plastic basin,
automatic water device. Others are manual drinker, nipple drinker. The advantage of
manual drinkers is easy establishment of vaccines and nutrients in the water.
Vaccination is delivered through a syringe or automatic vaccinator.

 Filers  automatic water device

 water softeners  manual drinker
 water heaters  nipple drinker
 Pan/jar  syringe or automatic vaccinator
 plastic basin

Tools
Basic tools are used for cleaning purposes while special ones are made for
certain activities. A specialized tool is the beak trimmer, nest box and weighing scale.

Cleaning tools are rakes, sprinklers, spray. To slaughter the mature birds some farms
have automatic conveyor belt system. They need guillotine, knives and slaughter slab.
More are disposable sleeves, hair caps, overalls.

 beak trimmer  automatic conveyor belt

 nest box system
 weighing scale  guillotine
 rakes  knives
 sprinklers  slaughter slab
 spray  disposable
 sleeves  wheelbarrows
 hair caps

http://www.agritech.tnau.ac.in/expert_system/poultry/Poultry%20House
%20Construction.html

Act. 2. Secure bedding materials

The Bedding Lineup

Traditional bedding materials and nontraditional ones have their pros and cons, but
your options are manageable.

A. Straw and Hay

Sun-colored straw, with its sweet, earthy smell and springy texture is what many new
chicken keepers reach for to line their coop and nest boxes.

B. Pine Shavings
A popular and prudent choice for litter is pine shavings, found at many feed-supply
stores, big-box stores and even pet-supply stores. Pine shavings dry fast, are
inexpensive and don’t break down quickly, making them an ideal bedding material. The
mild pine scent is inviting, though it does fade over time.

C. Cedar Shavings
Speaking of a pleasant aroma (and that’s a rare topic indeed where chickens are
concerned!), an alternative to pine shavings is cedar shavings. There’s much debate as
to the strong aromatic nature of cedar shavings and their effects on chickens’ delicate
respiratory systems, and it seems the jury is still out. To play it safe, I recommend
avoiding the use of cedar shavings with very young chicks confined to a brooder.

However, many chicken keepers have used cedar shavings with success in their
coops with adult flocks, so long as the birds have other areas to inhabit besides the
coop. If you opt for cedar shavings, they’re easy to find at pet-supply stores but are a
little more expensive than pine; they do really smell great and work as a natural insect-
repellent.
 D. Sand
Sand, when used as coop bedding, is an excellent and very clean choice for those
who have the time to devote to it. While expensive initially, compared to the alternatives
listed here, sand as bedding in the coop need only be replaced once or twice a year if
diligently cleaned and contained.

Sand dries very quickly and can be turned over with a rake to employ the deep-litter
method (discussed below) or scooped with a cat litter scooper when used in small
coops. Sand is the flooring material of choice for outdoor runs that are exposed to the
elements frequently: It doesn’t break down, it dries fast and it doubles as a great
material for dust baths. Your chickens will love it, as mine do. Be sure to use builder’s
sand (found at home-improvement stores), as sandbox sand is too fine and tends to
clump.

E. Grass Clippings
If you have enough, grass clippings are one viable coop bedding option, but they
have a few disadvantages. Clippings tend to retain moisture and break down quickly.
They also dry, shrink and smell. If you opt for grass clippings in the coop, be sure they
come from a yard that hasn’t been sprayed with pesticides, fungicides, herbicides or
other chemicals. Chickens will pick at anything and everything in their coop–bedding is
no exception, especially if there are bugs in it!

F. Shredded Leaves
This is an option if the leaves are finely shredded so they dry quickly. Whole leaves
take a long time to break down and are susceptible to harboring moisture, sticking
together and matting. Wet leaves make a slippery surface that could lead to splayed
legs or bumblefoot, especially in younger, growing birds.

G. Recycled Paper
A host of reclaimed and recycled manmade materials, such as shredded newspaper
or shredded office paper, are options. While they are free, use them with caution. Ink
can be toxic to chickens, and office paper is heavily processed and treated. Glossy
paper—the kind found in magazines and fliers—also contains a large amount of ink and
can create a matted and/or slippery surface.

https://www.google.com/search?
q=prepare+beddig&rlz=1C1ASUM_enPH928PH928&hl=en&sxsrf=ALeKk01NFlMncatyT
8_hEqnUGpgnQZ6YJw%3A1621691529497&ei

Act. 3. Prepare bedding

 Poultry litter can either be a farmer’s best friend or worst enemy. When managed
properly, it will help to prevent diseases and boost farm income by creating a favorable
production environment. When managed poorly, it will not only have a negative impact
on animal health, welfare and carcass quality, but also on the feed conversion ratio and
growth of birds.

Making the most of poultry litter starts with choosing the right kind of bedding
material. According to Jan Grobbelaar, training director at Dumela Poultry Solutions in
Pretoria, South Africa, bedding material should be light, so that it is easy to manage. It
should also be suited for use in compost or animal feed, so that it can be easily be
disposed of after use. For health reasons, however, opt for a material that’s soft and
compressible, with a medium particle size.

“Birds might have trouble walking on material with particles that are larger than
30mm, such as crushed maize cobs, wood chips and wheat straw,” says Grobbelaar.
“Material with such large particle sizes could hurt their feet and cause conditions such
as bumblefoot (ulcerative pododermatitis) or breast lesions. These may have a
decimating impact on farm bottom lines, by resulting in carcass downgrades and
rejections.”

But there are also problems associated with materials that have particle sizes
smaller than 2mm – such as sawdust, fine-ground or finely chopped wheat, straw or hay
– or that might produce dust, such as wood bark. As Grobbelaar explains, poultry dust –
airborne particles of feed and bedding mixed with organic matter from droppings,
feathers and dead skin – can affect bird and human health, because, aside from poultry
waste, it contains bacteria, viruses and fragments of fungi and spores.

“In the past, it was thought that poultry dust did not have a negative impact on
human health, but today we know that it causes respiratory problems in birds and
humans,” he says, adding that the material used as litter, the age of the litter and
climatic conditions all exert an influence on dust levels in a grower house.

An absorbing problem

Another essential quality for material used as bedding is that it should be highly
absorbent and quick to dry, to reduce contact between birds and manure. Grobbelaar
says pine shavings are still the most popular bedding material in South Africa. Peanut
and sunflower hulls are also good, but they have to be turned every week or two to
prevent them from caking and to maintain friable conditions. “Fungi that could be
damaging to broiler health, will develop if sunflower or peanut hulls become wet,”
explains Grobbelaar.

Paper and sawdust are not ideal when it comes to moisture absorption,
according to Grobbelaar, since paper tends to harden when it gets wet. Sawdust
absorbs moisture, but takes too long to release it again – resulting in the litter becoming
very wet.

Excess moisture in bedding material is a real problem as it will increase the

incidence of breast blisters, skin burns, bruising, condemnations and downgrades. It will
also promote bacterial and fungal growth and can cause excessive ammonia emissions.
Grobbelaar points out that ammonia levels of about 25 parts per million (ppm) have
been associated with poor growth rates, birds’ increased susceptibility to Newcastle
disease and a build-up of E. coli. Prolonged exposure to ammonia levels of 50 to 100
ppm has also been found to cause keratoconjunctivitis and blindness.

The ideal is to maintain litter moisture levels at between 21 and 25 per cent.
When the litter exceeds 30 percent, ammonia production will increase as temperatures
go up. “To estimate the moisture content of your litter, squeeze a handful of it into a
ball,” advises Grobbelaar. “If it sticks together in a ball, it is too wet. If it only adheres
slightly it will have the proper moisture content. If it doesn’t adhere at all, it may be too
dry, which is also a problem.”

When it comes to the detection of ammonia levels, Grobbelaar said that levels of
10 to 15 ppm can usually be detected by smell. At 25 to 35 ppm it will burn your eyes; at
50 ppm, it could result in broilers exhibiting watery and inflamed eyes, and at 75 ppm,
broilers will start showing discomfort and might start jerking their heads.

New bedding material should be stored properly before it is spread in the broiler
house, to avoid wet-litter problems. Broiler houses should be managed properly in terms
of humidity, ventilation and stocking density and the bedding should be between 70mm
and 100mm deep, depending on the type of material used and conditions in the broiler
house.

Birds should also receive a high-quality diet to prevent a built up of high moisture
levels. Grobbelaar explains that certain dietary ingredients, especially salts, and some
drugs cause birds to drink and excrete large amounts of water, which exacerbates wet-
litter conditions. In South Africa bedding is renewed after every production cycle.

Keep the heat In

In addition, the ideal bedding material will have low thermal conductivity to retain
warmth and act as insulation – it should help to protect broilers from the cold floor.
Grobbelaar says this is one of the reasons he does not like sand that much: it has poor
thermal conductivity and therefore stays cold. Birds might also struggle to move in sand,
if it is spread too deeply.Finally, your chosen bedding should be free from harmful toxins
and contaminants. Grobbelaar says it is best for growers to avoid hardwoods, for
example, as these might contain fungi that could be harmful to the broilers.

Cost is usually the biggest driver when it comes to selecting bedding material.
But Grobbelaar warns that buying cheap material could actually cost you more in the
long run: “While many producers only look at the initial cost, the long-term benefits of
using better quality material on animal

https://www.google.com/search?
q=set+up+brooding+facility+for+native+chicken&rlz=1C1ASUM_enPH928PH928&oq=s
et+up+brooding+facility+for+native+chicken&aqshealth and production might make up
for the initial difference in price.”

Act. 4. Set-up brooding facility

Setting up a Brooder
 Storage Bin: Start with a clear plastic storage bin. Make sure the sides are tall. If
you are getting several chicks then get the biggest one you can find. You will be
surprised by how fast they grow.

 Bedding: It is very important that chicks are kept dry and warm. I like to lay down
several layers of newspaper with a good thick layer of wood chips on top of that.
You can use shredded paper or sand as well. Just make sure that whatever you lay
down stays dry.
 Heat source: Chicks are very easily raised on their own, but without a mother hen
to keep them warm they need a heat source. You can hang a heat lamp above the
bin or buy an electric chick warmer to place down in the brooder.

 Feed: Chicks grow very fast so they need a good, high-protein chick starter feed.
Adding in some dry sand is also important. Chickens don’t chew their food. They
need some grit or sand in their gizzard to help “chew” their food.

 Water: Chicks love to scratch and peck right from day one but can be so messy.
Placing a few small bricks (not taller than a couple inches) under the water will help
keep their water clean. Make sure to watch them all get up and get water before
you walk away. If they can’t get up on the bricks then place on the floor of your
brooder until they are a few days old.

Keep them warm

When chicks are comfortable they have a sweet little peep that is soft and
pleasant. If they are noisy then something is not right. Usually they are cold or their
bedding is wet. Keeping a thermometer in the brooder is an easy way to help regulate
the temperature. You are aiming for 85-90 degrees under the lamp.
Another way to “read” the temperature is to watch their behavior. If they are all
huddled under the lamp and not scratching and pecking then it is too cold. Lowering the
heat lamp usually is all it takes to solve that problem. If they are all on the opposite side
of the brooder and no one is under the heat lamp then the temperature is too warm.
Raise the heat lamp a little. What you are looking to accomplish is the chicks milling
around happily, some under the light and some not.

Keep them clean

Aside from keeping chicks warm and dry with plenty of good food and clean
water there is not much else a chick needs. In the first couple days you do need to
watch out for pasty butt. That is where their poop is runny and sticks to their feathers
instead of well formed droppings. If left uncared for it can build up and block their vent
which can make them ill.
The good news is that it is super easy to take care of. Just make sure they are
kept clean. Use a nice, soft cloth to clean the poop from their feathers. Be very careful
to not pull the poop off. Pasty butt is only a problem in the first couple days and can be
almost completely eliminated by making sure that they have grit available.

Move them to their coop

As the chicks grow you can slowly raise the lamp. Just watch their behavior and
don’t let them get cold. When the chicks can handle 70 degree temps without being cold
or crying then they are ready to be moved to their coop. Use common sense at this
point. If it is February and 30 degrees outside then it is too cold outside for the chicks.

https://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/equipment-for-checking-brooding-set-up
LO3. Feed Chicken
Act.1. Select suitable feed materials
1. Water equipments
Pan and jar type
This type of waterer is
circular in nature, having two
compartments i.e. jar for filling
water and pan for delivering
water.
Water basin made of plastic / wood/GI with
grill
Basins of different
diameters are available (10”,
12”, 14” and 16” diameter).A
separate grill is available to
prevent the entry of birds inside
the water.
  Bell type automatic waterer

These are made of high-impact plastic in

a bell shape usually suspended from separate
pipeline for the purpose. This type of waterers
has control over the water flow and maintains
the required water level always.

 Nipple drinker 

It can be used both in deep- They also referred as “fountain

litter and in cage system. When
used in deep-litter system, it is
attached with cup under the nipple
to prevent wetting of litter material.
2. Feeding Equipments
drinkers” because water comes out of
the holes like that in case of a
fountain.The main advantage of
manual drinkers is the ease of giving
vitamins and other
probiotics/medicines/vaccines through
water.
Feeders are equipments used in feeding poultry birds. The food is deposited in the
feeder and the birds feed from it. The amount of feeders provided for a poultry farm
should be according to to amount of birds available. It is important that you always keep
the feeders clean to ensure the health safety of the birds.

 Linear feeder

Different sizes of linear feeder with guards are available.

Act.2. Prepare feed materials

Sources of Feeds

Main Feed for Chickens

 Alfalfa meal (high protein, good for winter)

 Corn (a mainstay for chickens, store whole)
 Field peas (for protein, to avoid soybean use)
 Wheat
 Oats and/or barley (less than 15 percent of the total diet together)

Things to Add to Chicken Feed

 Aragonite or feeding limestone (for calcium, not absolutely necessary)

 Oyster shell (calcium, free feed)
  Grit
 Salt
 Probiotic
 Crab meal (small amounts provide protein and minerals)
 Flaxseed (omega-3, feed whole to avoid rancidity)
 Broad-spectrum mineral supplement
 Kelp (a mineral source)
 Fish meal (helps boost protein and omega-3s)
 Cultured yeast (B vitamins, minerals, and digestive enzymes)

Equipment Needed

Making your own feed for more than a handful of chickens requires a
commercial, heavy-duty feed or flour mill. With this, you can freshly grind the grains you
purchase for your hens. 

You will also need to think about storage for the bags of grains you buy. Consider
building a storage bin with partitions for each of your grains and a lid on the top. If you
can use a sliding gate at the bottom to dispense the grain, you can naturally rotate the
grains. You may need to clean the bins out completely once or twice a year to prevent
pest infestations.

Raise Chickens on Pasture

One really easy way to feed your chickens and reduce the amount of chicken
feed required is to raise them on pasture. This is the most natural diet chickens can eat.
As long as they have enough acreage or consistently fresh pasture (e.g., a movable
coop), chickens can self-regulate. It's easy for them to find enough insects, bugs,
weeds, grasses, and seeds to stay healthy.

If you live in a place where winter comes and the grass stops growing, you'll at
least need to give them feed during the cold months. It's also a good idea to have a
supplemental feed for them even if they are primarily foraging.

https://www.thespruce.com/make-chicken-or-poultry-feed-3016558

Act.3. Feeding management program

Essential Nutrients
The following six classes of nutrients are essential to life, growth, production and
reproduction in all classes of poultry. Nature supplies most of these essentials in the
form of pasture, bugs and insects, gravel, grains and seeds, sunshine, etc. Indoor
feeding of young or adult poultry, places full responsibility on the attendant to supply
these same requirements in some form or another and in adequate but not excessive
amounts.

1. Water
  Birds can live longer without food than without water. Lack of a consistant supply
of fresh water hinders the growth of young poultry; it leads to low egg production and
early moulting in the laying flock.

2. Protein
 This is usually the most expensive feed material, but the one most likely to bring
profitable results if properly used. Protein from animal sources - milk, liver, fish scraps,
meat or meat meal - is more effective in promoting growth and egg production, than
protein from most vegetable sources. Grains alone are entirely inadequate in amount
and kind of protein. Excess protein has a forcing effect which may be detrimental to
poultry of any age.

3. Carbohydrates
 These are the starchy materials in grains and grain products. Only a starved
flock will lack for carbohydrates. They supply fuel and energy, the excess going to form
fat in the body or egg.

4. Fats
Some fat is present in practically all feed materials. An excess of fat from fish oil or meat
and fish products may cause digestive upset in birds, and lead to such disorders as fatty
degeneration and "crazy chick disease".

5. Minerals
Calcium carbonate (from limestone or gravel, clam or oyster shells, bone, etc) in the
presence of Vitamin D, forms most of the egg shell. Calcium and phosphorous make up
the major part of bone; but excess phosphorous (from bone materials) may immobilize
the manganese in the diet, leading to crooked bones and slipped tendons in chicks and
poults. Salt supplies some essential minerals. Green feed contains small amounts of
certain highly important minerals.

6. Vitamins
 The naturally speedy growth of young poultry soon reveals any vitamin
deficiencies in their rations; hatching of eggs is a critical test of the vitamin content of a
breeder diet. Most commonly lacking in Manitoba diets are:
(1) Vitamin A (from green feed, yellow corn and fish oils). Vitamin A protects against
colds and infections. (2) Vitamin D (in marine fish oils and synthetic products, or formed
in body when exposed to ultra-violet rays of sun). Vitamin D aids in laying down of
mineral in shell or bone, and in preventing leg weakness and rickets. (3) Riboflavin (in
milk, liver, yeast, green feed, synthetic riboflavin, etc.). Riboflavin promotes the growth
of chicks and poults, both in the egg and after hatching; hence it is one of the most
important factors in hatchability. Riboflavin prevents nutritional or curled-toe paralysis in
young chicks.

Some suggested feeding programs for small chicken flocks include:

1. Broilers (1.8 kg body weight at 6 weeks of age):
1. Commercially prepared broiler starter, grower, and finisher. Use a coccidiostat in
the starter and grower. Follow your feed supplier's or veterinarian's
recommendation for coccidiostat in the finisher. A broiler chicken will eat about 1
kg of starter, 1.5 kg of grower and 1.5 kg of finisher to reach market weight.
2. Roasters (4 to 4.5 kg body weight at 10 to 12 weeks of age):
1. 0 to 3 Weeks:      
1. Commercially prepared 18 to 21% protein chick starter. Provide
approximately 1 kg of starter per bird in the first three weeks. The starter
should contain a coccidiostat.

2. 3 to 8 Weeks:
1.  Commercially prepared 15 to 18% grower (about 5 kg per bird) with
coccidiostat OR.

2. Grain mixed with a 35 to 40% protein supplement with coccidiostat.

Typically, 150 kg of supplement is mixed with about 850 kg of grain.
Normally, you should not add the extra oyster shell or limestone that is
used with laying hen supplements. Consult your feed supplier for
 complete mixing directions and instructions. Use the different grains,
(wheat, barley etc.), as described previously in this factsheet.

3. 8 Weeks to Market:
1.  Commercially prepared, 15 to 16% protein, unmedicated finisher (3
to 6 kg per bird) OR….
2. Grain plus unmedicated supplement mixed at levels similar to
three to eight weeks of age
3. Laying Hens
1. 0 to 8 Weeks:
1. Commercially prepared 18 to 21% protein chicken starter with coccidiostat

2. 8 to 18 Weeks:        

1. Commercially prepared 14 to 16% protein grower ration OR….

2. Grain mixed with a 35 to 40% protein supplement. Typically, 150 kg of
supplement is mixed with 850 kg of grain. Consult your feed supplier for
complete directions. Use the different grains, (wheat, barley etc.), as described
previously in this factsheet.
     
3. If birds are to be housed on the floor when in egg production, do not use a
coccidiostat in the complete feed or supplement at this time. You want the birds
to develop resistance to coccidiosis during this period if they are to be kept on
the floor while in lay. If the birds are to be housed in cages, a medicated or
unmedicated ration can be used as coccidiosis is not normally a problem once
birds are caged.

3. 18+ Weeks:       

1. Commercially prepared 16 to 19% protein laying hen ration OR….
     
2. Grain mixed with a 35% to 40% protein supplement. Typically, mix 250 kg of
supplement, 80 kg of limestone or oyster shell plus 670 kg of grain. Consult your
feed supplier for complete directions.
 Act.4. Monitor feeding

The most advantageous method for feeding chickens is with a well balanced
pelleted ration, regardless of whether the birds are restricted inside or permitted to
range outside. Most diets contain corn for vitality, soybean meal for protein, and vitamin
and other mineral supplements. Commercial rations regularly contain antibiotics to
promote and enhance development, coccidiostats for battling coccidiosis, and mold
inhibitors. In any case, it is possible to acquire unmedicated encourage check nourish
marks to check whether they contain feed additives. In the industry, feed is pelleted so
the bird can eat more at one time.

Chickens are nibblers and make visit to the nourish trough for little dinners, which
requires vitality. Pelleting lessens the measure of vitality required for a feathered
creature to bolster. Distinctive rations are frequently utilized, depending upon the
production stage of the bird. Starter rations are high in protein- an
expensive feed ingredient. However, grower and finisher rations can be lower in protein
since older birds require less. Access to clean water is important. Levels of total
dissolved solids over 3000 ppm in the water can meddle with poultry well being and
production. 

LO4. Grow and Harvest Chicken

ACT 1- Candling of Eggs

What is an egg candler?

Candling is a method used to observe the growth and development

of an embryo inside an egg which uses a bright light source behind the egg to show
details through the shell. It is so called because the original sources of light used
were candles. Modern egg candlers or candling lamps are lights with a concentrated
beam. LEDs are now preferred because they are very bright, very efficient and have
an extremely long life - so no bulbs to replace and the convenience of compact,
portable battery powered units which can be used right in the nest. They also put
out a cool light rather than a lot of heat that might damage the embryos.

Why candling eggs?

Candling allows you to monitor many things including the egg

fertility, embryo development and weight loss rate. By being able to identify and
remove non-viable eggs (infertile or early death) you can also avoid the risk of a
rotten egg exploding and contaminating your hatch with dangerous germs. And
candling does not harm your eggs. Just as the mother would naturally leave the nest
for a short time each day, you can safely take your incubating eggs out of the
incubator for the few times you will be candling them. During incubation the air sac
size should increase as moisture evaporates from the egg. Eggs need to loose
about 13% of their original weight during incubation. If your humidity level is about
right, the air sac should increase at different days of incubation according to the
diagram shown here.

Composition of EGG 

The shape of an egg may be described as oval, the normal egg weight range is 35gms
to 77gms
The Proportions and solids contents of the components of the average egg are:
Parts                                             % of whole egg
Shell                                                      10.5
Yolk                                                        31
White                                                     58.5
Total Edible                                           89.5
 Egg Anatomy

Parts of EGG
1)    Shell
As the name suggests, this is the fragile and porous outer covering, it is the first
line of defense against the bacteria. The shell is made mostly of minerals such as
calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and calcium phosphate. Can be brown or
white in color. Approximately 8,000 to 10,000 tiny pores allow moisture and gases in
(O2) and out (CO2)
2)    Shell Membranes
These are layers of protein fibers that stick to the shell, second line of defense
against bacteria. They provide additional protection for the egg’s insides, preventing
mold and bacteria from getting in, there are two on inside of the shell, one membrane
sticks to the shell and one surrounds the white (albumen)
3)    Albumen
This is the white of the egg. It is mostly made of high quality protein, water and
some minerals like sulfur, which is clear and soluble when raw but white and firm when
coagulated. The white has two parts- a thick portion that surrounds the yolk, and a
thinner, more liquid portion outside of the thick portion. White represents 2/3 of the
egg’s weight (without shell), when a fresh egg is broken, the thick albumen stands up
firmly around the yolk. The yolk is suspended in it by two yolk cords or chalazae (Kah-
lay-za)
4)    Yolk
The yellow bull’s eye of the egg, the yolk is made of a substance called “vitellus.”
The egg’s major source of vitamins and minerals, including protein and essential fatty
acids. It can be a pale yellow or dark yellow or light orange depending upon the food of
the bird. About 30 percent of the yolk is fat, and about 16 percent is protein. The
remainder is made up of solids, represents 1/3 of the egg’s weight (without shell)
 5)    Chalaza
On opposite sides of the yolk are two, twisted, whitish cord-like objects known as
chalazae. A pair of spiral bands that anchor the yolk in the centre of the thick albumen.
Chalazae may vary in size and density, but do not affect either cooking performance or
nutritional value, unnoticeable when the egg is cooked.
6)    Germinal Disc
It appears as a slight depression on the surface of the yolk, the entry for the
fertilization of the egg.
7)    Yolk Membrane (Vitelline Membrane)
It surrounds and holds the yolk, the fresher the egg the stronger the membrane.
8)    Air Cell
It forms at the wide end of the egg as it cools after being laid, the fresher the egg
the smaller the air cell.

Uses of Egg

 Binder
One of the uses of eggs is as a binder. A binder helps other ingredients bind together
(eggs are used to help bind together meatballs, meatloaf and flour mixtures).  When
eggs are heated they coagulate, this helps stick together the ingredients they are mixed
with.

 Coating
Another use of eggs is as a coating agent.  The breading on fried chicken sticks
because the chicken is dipped into an egg then a flour or crumb mixture.  The eggs help
hold the crumb mixture to the food when heated during the cooking process.

 Thickening Agent
 
Eggs have thickening properties. The protein in eggs will thicken when heated and
become firm.  If an egg is overheated or cooked for too long of a time it will become
rubbery and tough in texture. Eggs are often used in custards and sauces to thicken the
finished product.

 Emulsifier
 
 Eggs are an emulsifier.  An emulsifier permits small globules of one liquid to be inter-
dispersed in another liquid.  For example in mayonnaise the egg acts as an emulsifying
agent in keeping the oil and vinegar mixed as one product and not separating out.  Eggs
are also used as emulsifiers in cakes.

 Crystallization
 
When a liquid freezes, ice crystals form.  When eggs are added to a mixture, it helps
prevent these crystals from forming.  That is why another use of eggs is the prevention
of crystallization.

 Clarifier
 
Using egg as a clarifier is also popular in making of Stock or Broth. The egg is used to
make a broth clear.  Any unwanted particles in the broth will stick to the egg as it
coagulates in the broth.  The cooked egg is then removed.

 Leavening Agent/ Raising Agent

 
One of the most common uses of eggs is as a leavening agent.  A leavening agent
helps to make a cooked product rise.  When eggs are beaten they hold air.  When heat
is added the structure will coagulate and traps the air.  This is what gives angel food
cakes, meringues and soufflés their light and fluffy texture.

Functional uses of Egg

 Dairy Products
 
The addition of egg to ice cream and other frozen desserts improves consistency and
decreases melting point. To eliminate crystallization and ensure a smooth texture, eggs
are included in frozen dairy products.

 Confectionery
 
Egg acts as a binding agent for fondant and other soft fillings, improving the softness
and texture and adding richness. Confectionery such as chocolate bars and fondant are
stabilized by egg proteins.

 Drinks
 
Egg whites act as a clarification agent in the manufacture of wine and some juices,
inhibiting enzyme growth and prevent browning of the product. Adding egg to yogurts
and pro-biotic drinks gives a desirable creamy texture to the product.

 Sauces
 
Egg gives a smoother texture to pre-prepared microwaveable dishes. Frozen
microwaveable dishes which include egg have better freezing and thawing properties.
Foods such as mayonnaise, salad dressing, dips and sauces are bound and emulsified
by the addition of egg.
Standard Dimensions of the Average Egg

 Weight                                                 58gms
 Volume                                                53cm3
 Specific Gravity                                  1.09
 Long Axis                                             5.7cm
 Short Axis                                            4.2cm
 Long circumference                           15.7cm
 Short circumference                          13.5cm
 Surface Area                                        68cm2
 
 Standard Size of an Egg

1. Jumbo               30 ounces
2. Extra Large       27 ounces
3. Large                 24 ounces
4. Medium            21 ounces
5. Small                 18 ounces
6. Pee Wee           15 ounces
 
 Egg Grades
1)    AA Shell

The whites of AA Shell are thick and firm, yolks is high, round, and practically
free from defects, egg itself is clean and unbroken. Grade AA and Grade A eggs are
best for frying and poaching, where appearance is important.

2)    A Shell

This eggs have characteristics of Grade AA eggs except the whites are
“reasonably” firm. This is the quality most often sold in stores. The eggs have been held
a few days in the refrigerator.

3)    B Shell

B shell eggs are clean to slightly stained, air cell over 3/16″ deep, white-weaker
and watery.  This eggs have whites that may be thinner and yolks that may be wider
and flatter than eggs of higher grades. The shells must be unbroken, but may show
slight stains. This quality is seldom found in retail stores because they are usually used
to make liquid, frozen, and dried egg products, as well as other egg-containing
products.
Egg Products
 
Table-ready pasteurized liquid eggs are found in the refrigerated section of the
supermarket. The white and yolk of the eggs are mixed, then pasteurized at a
temperature high enough to kill any bacteria without cooking the eggs. They can be
refrigerated unopened for up to 12 weeks from the pack date. They can be used like
eggs already scrambled. Pasteurized eggs in their shells are also now available.

Egg substitutes are a blend of egg whites and other ingredients such as food
starch, corn oil, skim-milk powder, tofu, artificial coloring, and various additives.
Because they are almost all protein, egg substitutes can become rubbery if overcooked.

Egg as a Food
 
Eggs have the ideal protein mix for growth and repair. It is an excellent source of
protein.Very low in fat, a medium egg has less than six grams of fat and is not high in
kilojoules.Low in saturated fat, eggs have less than 2 grams saturated fat. Most of the
fat is unsaturated.Rich in vitamins, eggs really are nature’s vitamin capsule containing
all the vitamins except vitamin C. They are a good source of Vitamin B12 which may be
lacking in vegetarian diets.
Rich in iron, a serve of 2 eggs contains 2.2 mg of iron (as much as a lamb chop).
Iron is best absorbed from food when vitamin C is present so combine your egg with a
glass of orange juice for even better nutrition.
Its many essential functions include- a building block for cell membranes, required for
production of some hormones, essential for production of digestive juices, protection for
nerve fibers. The body is able to make this cholesterol in the liver.

Preparation Tips
 
When selecting eggs, check the container for any cracked or broken eggs and
eliminate them from the carton. Place the carton in the refrigerator for up to 5 weeks. Do
not place eggs in the designated egg holders in the door of older refrigerators. It is too
warm for the eggs there because they get a blast of hot air each time the door is
opened. The egg carton helps keep eggs from absorbing odors from other foods and
helps keep the eggs fresh. When adding eggs to a mixing bowl, break the egg in a
separate dish to make sure the egg is not rotten.

Serving Suggestions
 
Eggs serve many purposes in cooking and preparing food, including a leavening
agent in baked goods, a base for mayonnaise, and a thickener in sauces and custards.
Served alone, eggs can be poached, boiled (soft or hard), fried, scrambled, or made
into an omelet. From a safety stand point, it is recommended that both the yolk and the
white be cooked until firm. Because they are made mostly of water and protein, eggs
are best cooked over low heat.

Storage & Handling of Egg

 Proper storage is essential for maintaining quality. Eggs keep for weeks if held at
36°F (2°C) but lose quality quickly if held at room temperature. In fact, they can
lose a full grade in one day at warm kitchen temperatures. Store eggs away
from foods that might pass on undesirable flavors or odors.
 If fresh eggs are cracked and then prepared and served immediately, they should
be cooked so that all parts of the food are heated to a temperature of 145°F
(63°C) or above for 15 seconds.
 Foods made with raw fresh eggs that are not cracked and then prepared and
served immediately should be cooked to heat all parts to 155°F (68°C) or above
for 15 seconds.
 Egg white coagulates, or solidifies, when it reaches temperatures between 144
°F and 149 °F (62.2 °C-65 °C).
 Egg yolk coagulates at slightly higher temperatures, between 149 °F and 158 °F
(65 °C-70 °C).
 If a boiled egg is overcooked, a greenish ring sometimes appears around egg
yolk due to the iron and sulfur compounds in the egg.
 It can also occur when there is an abundance of iron in the cooking water.
 The green ring does not affect the egg’s taste; overcooking, however, harms the
quality of the protein
 Chilling the egg for a few minutes in cold water until it is completely cooled
prevents the greenish “ring” from forming on the surface of the yolk.
 
 Egg Cookery
1)    Egg Cooked in the Shell

a)    Hard Boiled Egg

Eggs must not be boiled but simmer for about 20 minutes for a hard cooked egg
and cooled immediately in cold running water, fresh eggs should be used and allowed
to stand overnight at room temperature before cooking.
The cooked egg should be immersed in cold water and flushed in running water
immediately after cooking to avoid darkening of the yolk.
The greenish coloration of the yolk is due to the formation of iron sulfide during cooking.
Iron comes from the yolk and the sulfide from the white.
Characteristic of hard boiled egg is tender albumen, well centered yolk, no darkening of
yolk, easy to peel.

b)    Soft Boiled Egg

It has a tender but firm albumen, yolk is slightly thickened yet not firm at the
edges.A good soft cooked egg may be obtained by simmering for 5 minutes with
enough water to cover the egg.
2)    Egg cooked without Shell

a)    Poached Eggs
Poached eggs are those egg broken out of the shell and dropped into simmering
water to coagulate.
A drop of vinegar gives a smooth textured product.

b)    Fried Eggs or Sunny Side Up

This is the most popular breakfast preparation and sometimes called eggs coked
sunny side up. The eggs are broken out of the shell and pan fried in small amount of oil
without breaking the yolk. The upper surface of the yolk is basted with hot oil. Non- stick
pan is recommended to use.

c)    Shirred or Baked Eggs

This resembles fried eggs, except that it starts on top of the stove and finished in
the oven individually.

d)    Scrambled Eggs
This is prepared by whipping the whole egg out of the shell and pan frying just
like fried egg. Another way is to whip the white first into stiff foam and add the yolk as
whipping is continued. Milk may be added to lower the coagulation temperature and to
affect a softer product.
e)    Omelets
Omelets are sophisticated scrambled eggs. The first part of the technique is
similar for making scrambled eggs. The similarity ends there and the omelet emerges
from the pan not as shapeless pile of curds on an attractive oval with light delicate
texture. Many variations can be done in the preparations of omelets. Example Frittata

f)    Soufflés
A standard entrée soufflé consists of three elements:

1. Base- Usually heavy béchamel.

2. Flavor Ingredients- Cheese, vegetables, sea foods, meat.
3. Egg Whites- Delicately beaten.
 
The ingredients are folded gently and bake in a soufflé dish and served immediately
from the oven to the dining table.

https://www.shiveshskitchen.com/2015/08/all-about-eggs.html

Act.2- Monitor growth rate

1.Weeks 1-4: Baby chicks

Start your birds strong by providing a complete starter-grower feed with at least

18 percent protein to support chick growth. The feed should also include amino acids for
chick development, prebiotics and probiotics for immune health, and vitamins and
minerals to support bone health.
 
Chicks are also susceptible to illness. If chicks were not vaccinated for
coccidiosis by the hatchery, choose a medicated chick starter feed. Medicated feeds
like Purina® Start & Grow® Medicated, are not impacted by the Veterinary Feed Directive
and can be purchased without a veterinarian.

2. Weeks 5-15: The teenage chicken stage

During weeks 5 and 6, chicks will go through visible growth changes, including
new primary feathers and a developing pecking order. Growing birds are now referred
to differently. Pullet is the term for a teenage female, while a young male is called a
cockerel. Between weeks 7 and 15, the physical differences between genders will
become even more obvious.
 
Continue to feed a complete starter-grower feed, like Purina® Organic Starter-
Grower, Purina® Start & Grow® Medicated or Purina® Start & Grow® Non-Medicated,
during the teenage stage. Along with 18 percent protein, make sure the feed contains
no more than 1.25 percent calcium. Too much calcium can have a detrimental effect on
growth, but a complete starter feed has just the right balance for growing birds.

3. Weeks 16-17: When to switch from chick starter to layer feed

Around weeks 16-17, people begin to check their nesting boxes for the
coveted first egg. At this point, consider layer feed options so you can make a smooth
transition.As compared to starter-grower, a layer chicken feed has less protein and
more calcium. This added calcium is important for egg production.
 
 Look for a chicken layer feed that matches your flock goals – whether
®
that’s Purina  Organic Layer Pellets or Crumbles, Purina Layena+ Omega-
3, Purina® Layena® Pellets or Purina® Layena® Crumbles. In any case, be sure the layer
feed is made with simple, wholesome ingredients and includes 16 percent protein, at
least 3.25 percent calcium as well as key vitamins and minerals.

4. Week 18: At what age do chickens start laying eggs?

When birds reach 18 weeks old or when the first egg arrives, slowly  transition
to a layer feed. Make the transition gradually to prevent digestive upset.
 
On our farm, we have found it’s best to transition over time rather than all at
once. We mix the starter and layer feed evenly for four or five days. If birds are used to
crumbles, start with a crumble layer feed. The same goes with pellets. The more similar
the two feeds are, the smoother the transition will go.

5. Month 18: Molting chickens

Once the first egg has been laid, it’s business as usual for a while. Around 18
months, feathers will likely begin to cover the coop floor. Welcome to the season
of molting chickens!
 
The first molt usually occurs in the fall when days become shorter. Your flock will take a
break from egg laying and shed feathers for a few weeks. This is a completely natural
annual occurrence.
 
Protein is the key nutrient in a flock’s diet to keep them strong during molt.
This is because feathers are made of 80-85 percent protein, whereas eggshells are
primarily calcium.

When molt begins, switch to a complete feed with 20 percent protein

like Purina® Flock Raiser®. A high-protein complete feed can help hens channel
nutrients into feather regrowth. Once birds begin producing eggs again, switch back to a
layer feed to match their energy needs.

6. Laying hen retirement

One day, the time may come for the veterans of a flock to take a vacation and
retire from egg-laying. Although a laying hen will stop laying as she ages, she still has
an important place in the flock as a steady companion who brings joy to the entire
family.
 
At this point, transition back full circle to a higher-protein feed, such as
Purina  Flock Raiser®. If you have laying hens in the flock, supplement with oyster shell
®

to assist their egg production.

https://www.purinamills.com/chicken-feed/education/detail/six-milestones-of-chicken-growth-
stages

Act 3 - Implement health care program

Poultry egg and meat are important sources of highquality proteins, minerals and
vitamins to balance the human diet. Specially developed breeds of egg type chicken are
now available with traits of quick growth and high feed conversion efficiency. Depending
on the farm- size, poultry farming can be main source of family income or can provide
income and gainful employment to small holder farmers throughout the year. Poultry
manure has high fertilizer value and can be used for increasing yield of all crops. In
poultry rearing disease is a major factor which causes severe impact on economics of
farming. Birds are susceptible to diseases many of which are highly contagious.
Therefore, it is advisable to take up utmost care for prevention and control of disease.

The main sources of disease spread in poultry are wet litter, feed and water,
close contact, contaminated equipment, attendants and visitors, air, external parasites,
free moving birds, rodents and flies, etc.

General principles for prevention of diseases

 Procure the day-old chicks, which are free from diseases from reputed hatcheries
 Feeds must be tested to ensure that they are free from microbial agents or toxins
at periodic intervals.
 Storage facilities for feed ingredients/feeds must be managed in a hygienic
manner.
 Sheds having infected flocks should be served with feed at the end of a delivery
day.
 Always ensure the supply of clean and potable water. If necessary, use
appropriate sanitizers.
 Periodic inspection of wells, piping and tanks to ensure that water supplied is
clean.
 An area specific vaccination schedule as recommended by hatchery doctor must
be practiced with utmost care.
 Rodent control programmed, where ever necessary, must be adopted by
employing mechanical (traps) or chemical techniques along with strict sanitation
measures.
 After selling each crop from the sheds, thorough cleaning of sheds should be
done by removing all fixtures, equipment, litter dust, debris followed by brooming
and burning. The rat holder cracks, worn out area should be packed with cement.
 Avoid use of litter as manure around the farms.
 Well cleaning of sheds and equipment with water and appropriate detergent.
 A thorough disinfection of sheds, equipment’s as well as farm surroundings by
formalin spray at recommended concentration.
 Foot baths should be always filled with disinfectant.
 Vehicles visiting the farms should be thoroughly disinfected by appropriate
disinfectant spray.
  Personnel working in laying sectors should not be allowed into brooding/growing
sector or feed manufacturing facilities. All visitors must be ensured to walk
through foot baths.
 Disposal of dead birds in hygienic manner either by using incinerator or by pit
method is very essential

Act.4 - Implement sanitation and cleanliness program

Poultry Rearing Hygiene

The production of healthy poultry depends on the maintenance of health and hygiene
throughout the entire production system. This includes the maintenance of health at the
point of production of the live birds. The following are examples of measures which can be
taken to ensure good hygiene and to prevent disease at the farm:

 The processing operation should be located as far away as possible from other
similar operations
 Poultry houses and all equipment should be scrubbed clean with a high-pressure
hot water cleaner, detergents and disinfectants such as chlorine-based
chemicals, formaldehyde, 2% caustic soda solution or 1% quaternary ammonium
compounds solution between raising batches of poultry
 Chicks or eggs should be purchased from disease free flocks
 Birds of one age only should be reared in each house. Birds of different ages can
infect each other and young chicks are particularly vulnerable to adult disease
 Feed should be procured in proper
 packaging or by bulk transport
 The diet should be well balanced in sufficient quantities and obtained from a well-
known source
 Dirty litter & droppings should be removed from the poultry house
 Overheating and overcrowding of the birds should be prevented
 Poultry houses should be well ventilated; this is important in maintaining correct
housing temperature and humidity.
 Clothing, footwear, cleaning facilities & materials should be provided and
laundered for all staff and visitors.
 A foot-bath should be installed containing disinfectant (such as an Iodoform) at
the poultry house entrance and its use made compulsory.
 Veterinary advice should be sought at the first sign of disease in the flock. If this
is not available, the producer may be obliged to slaughter in order to prevent
serious recurrence of the disease in subsequent flocks
 Dead birds should be removed as soon as possible from the rearing houses and
disposed of by incineration or deep burial
 Although the poultry sheds are designed to prevent their entry, rats, mice and
insects are difficult to keep at bay. They should be destroyed if they infest the
poultry house and feed store as they are carriers of disease
 Cats, dogs and other animals should be prevented from entering the poultry
house. Children should be discouraged from entry also unless they are attending
to the birds or under instruction
Provide clean and appropriate housing
 Allow enough floor, feed and water space, and shade for the species
requirements and poultry welfare code.
 Ensure perches are smooth and at a height suitable for the breed.
 Cover concrete floors with bedding material such as sawdust, pine shavings,
straw or sand; these coverings are drier and easier to clean than dirt floors.
 Keep pens well ventilated and free from dampness and draughts.
 House fowls, ducks, turkeys and peafowl separately as each can carry diseases
that can make the others sick.
 Provide housing that will prevent contact with wild birds.
 At the end of each batch or production cycle:
o wash and spray the shed with a disinfectant and insecticide
o remove the old litter, rake over dirt floors and spray with disinfectant or
sprinkle with slaked lime
o take out, clean and disinfect all moveable objects
o try to leave sheds empty for at least 10-12 days
o if re-using litter, windrow for at least 5-6 days between batches
o if sheds and pens are used continuously, aim to do a complete clean and
disinfection at least once per year.
 Regularly clean and flush water bowls, lines and feeders.
 Regularly clean nest boxes, remove dirty litter and avoid using moldy bedding
material.
 Fence off range areas to reduce the impact of predators.

https://www.bestvetsolutions.com

Act. 5 -Collect organic waste for fertilizer

COMPOST CHICKEN MANURE THE RIGHT WAY

 Backyard chicken keeping has many benefits aside from  farm-fresh eggs. If you
garden, chicken manure is black gold when composted and applied appropriately, returning
nutrients to the soil and helping produce better plants, fruits and vegetables for you and
your family.

Manure Macronutrients
Aside from macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are essential
for plant growth, chicken manure also contains calcium, magnesium and sulfur, which are
not found in synthetic fertilizers. In its raw form, however, poultry manure also has high
concentrations of bacteria, including pathogenic salmonella, meaning that you should never
apply raw poultry manure to your edible garden. The bacteria can come into contact with
your growing produce and either stick to the surface or move inside the plant’s cells,
making cleaning impossible.

In addition, if you apply raw, non-composted manure to your plants, they may very
well die due to excessive available nitrogen and salts. The best way to dispose of the
manure is to first compost it and then use it correctly and safely.

PROCEDURE

Step 1: Collect Materials

Think bedding material, such as rice hulls and wood shavings, and put it in a
composting bin. You’re aiming for approximately 25 percent manure and 75 percent other
materials, which can include the aforementioned bedding material, leaves, plant material or
kitchen scraps, and lawn clippings. You should have at least 1 cubic foot of material to
allow the composting process to heat the pile up to an internal temperature of 140 to 160
degrees F, which will kill pathogenic bacteria.

Step 2: Add Water

You’re looking for the pile to match the texture of a wet sponge.

Step 3: Monitor Temperature

Do this daily with a composting thermometer, which you can find online or at a
home-improvement store, and keep a temperature log to refer to. Your goal is to reach a
temperature between 140 to 160 degrees F and maintain that temperature for three days.

The temperature is key: Submitting compost samples to a lab for detection of

pathogens is not practical or effective. However, temperatures of 160 degrees F or higher
will kill salmonella and common bacterial pathogens found in poultry manure. If you don’t
achieve that temperature, the chances of pathogen survival for an extended period of time
will increase.

Step 4: Repeat
While the internal part of your pile is treated, the outside is not. Therefore, repeat
the process at least two more times to make sure all parts of the pile have been treated.

Step 5: Cure
Put the compost in a covered pile for at least 80 days. This waiting period helps
to ensure that the pathogenic bacteria have been killed.

How To Use It
On commercial farms, farmers match the nutrient requirements of the crop with
the application rate, which helps mitigate any issues related to nitrogen leaching into
groundwater. This approach is not practical for backyard gardeners, but it’s important to
recognize that more is not always better and the timing of application is important.

In general, always apply compost as near as possible to planting time and apply
it between 1 and 2 inches deep to your garden crops or 1/2 inch deep to your lawn. If you
want your compost samples analyzed for macronutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus
and potassium, and E. coli and salmonella levels, you can collect a sample and send it to a
private diagnostic lab.

Here are a few other items of note:

 Do not add dog, cat or human feces to your compost pile, as they can’t be safely
composted.
 You shouldn’t smell ammonia associated with manure inside the coop; aside from
being bad for our lungs, it can cause ulcers in the chickens’ corneas. If you do, you
need more bedding material. Straw, though commonly used, isn’t the best choice for
bedding, as it’s relatively nonabsorbent compared to wood shavings or rice hulls,
and can contribute to that strong ammonia smell. Clean your coop as needed, but
ideally, if you have the right density of birds and the correct amount of bedding
material, you shouldn’t need to clean your coop more than once every couple of
months. (The birds often will “till” their manure with their bedding as part of their
normal scratching behavior.)
 Remember that after you compost the material can still contain low levels of
salmonella, E. coli and other pathogens, which is fine. This is a numbers game in
that your starting material had millions of these bacteria per gram of manure. Very
low levels of these bacteria will not cause disease if you have a normal immune
 system. It’s still recommended to always wash freshly picked fruits and vegetables.

Compost is a safe and ideal fertilizer for your home garden—if processed correctly.
Aside from providing nutrients to your plants, the manure adds organic matter to the soil
and increases the water-holding capacity and the beneficial bacteria present in the soil, but
processing it properly is paramount.

https://www.hobbyfarms.com/compost-chicken-manure-the-right-way

Act. 6 - Select suitable chicken for harvest

Native chicken meat has always been preferred by consumers over that of
commercial broilers due to its unique taste, distinct flavor and texture, presence of
nutraceutical compounds (functional food), and lower fat content. Being free ranged,
native chicken is generally perceived as free from antibiotics and other synthetic
chemical residues. The global trend of shifting consumer preferences toward organic
and naturally produced products in recent years justifies the premium price offered for
native chicken over that of its commercial hybrid counterpart. Monitor growth rate based
on farm procedure and select suitable chicken for harvest based on market
specifications

Broilers
Poultry raisers consider marketing as a part of the production cycle. To have
adequate income from broiler production, marketing should be efficiently and effectively
planned. Before, broilers were known as 45-days in the market because they are
harvested in 45 days. Today, commercial farms of broiler integrator harvest their stock
as early as 35 days.

Market Types of Broiler

The target weight for broilers nowadays is 1.55 to 1.6 kilograms in 35 days.
However, market types of broilers are classified into three groups, according to weight,
namely: large, medium, and small. A pair of large broilers weighs from 3.75 to 4.0 kgs.
or 1.87 to 2 kgs. each. Large broilers are used extensively as fryers and are in great
demand during the holiday seasons.
Medium broilers weigh from 1 to 1.5kgs each. The medium broiler is very popular
and commands the highest price during the broiler season. It should be emphasized
though that commercially, it is not recommended for the flock to stay on the farm longer
than 35 days since the animals will only consume feeds given them without much
corresponding increase in weight.

Importance of Ready Market for Broilers

1. Broilers should be marketed at the right age.
2. Broilers with high-quality meat are preferred by consumers.
3. It helps the raisers avoid additional investment.
4. It gives the raisers a chance for another batch of broilers to raise.
5. This can give higher income for the raiser. Desirable Features of Broilers for
Market
a. It should be full-feathered and well filled out, especially the breast and
thigh
b. It should have a compact form.
c. Its meat should be of good quality.
d. It should have yellow skin and shank.
e. It should be light or white-feathered.
f. First class broilers have small comb and wattles, shanks and feet, and
short legs.

Marketing Broilers
1. Live
In this system, broilers are marketed by getting the individual or group live
weight
2. Dressed
In this system, the raiser will get the carcass weight of the dressed chicken for
marketing.
3. Dressing Percentage
This is the weight of the animal after slaughter removing all the internal organs as
well as inedible portions over the live weight multiplied by one hundred (100). Ideal
dressing percentage for chicken is more or less seventy-five percent (75%).The most
profitable way to market broilers is by directly selling live broilers to the consumers. The
products of most small-scale broiler projects are sold in this manner. Better profit is
attained by eliminating the services of middlemen and promptly disposing of the broilers
as soon as they reach the ideal market age.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/