TOE SPRING-TH)` s Dc FINED AS T)E ELEVATONof THE

T0E-END ofTHE LAST FRÓm AHORI20VTA

SURFACE WHE 71 SEAT Í RAisen 10 rHs CoRRGC7 HE"GS
SO TAT THE LAST STOVDS ON I7 7PEAD LINE:"
+eE E)GHT -
THE IE EL NI RE LATON
THicxNESS
oF THE
TOTHE 10E-SPRinG. T IS DETERM)NED P TH
SIyLE 0F THE LAST.
The standard amount of toc spring in relation to pitch (hcight of thhe heel) shall be as
follows according to the nature of the shoc, which is measured in
mn.
HEEL HEIGHT TOE SPRING (nim.)

Normal Men's Shoe 12 14

Popular Shoc on Low Heel 10

Ladies' Shoe on Medium Heel 8

L.adies' Shoe on Nigh Heel 6

Where other heights of heels are employed the toc spring shall be as follows

Heel height (mm) Toe spring (mm)

10 13
20 12
30
40
50

60) 8
70 7

The relation between the toe spring and height of heel during the increase and decrease
forsize to size shall be as follows

Heel height (mm)

Toe spring mm
10 to 30
0.5
30 to 60
1.0
Over 60
1.5
 S

AST- 7he woeden OR nNetal or swlheiic mould,Oven Lohuch

TA DTa co, is Constructd, Which give TKe fooldear its shebe Y
m aeeohdamet toth te volume fhe Josk. The Last ia Aepmductio
Ah oppnoximalé shape fHUmam fret.
TYPES OF SHOE LAST

There are four types of shoe lasts which are being Used by the shoc industry as a whole.

SOLLID BLOCK LAST

SCOOP BI.OCK LAST
ORDINARY OR
CONVENTIONAL. HINGE LAST
TELESCOPIC HINGE 1.AST

) SOL!) BLOCK I.AST

This is last made with single
a

block of material. It is mainly used

for modeling and manufacturing of
Chappal, sandal and wide open la-
dies bellies. IFig. 87a
Fig. 87a
b) SCOOP BLOCK I.AST

Itis a two part last. A cut is made

ias shown by a saw machine which
removes a large portion from the
op. The fastening is made by
means of a spring and a plug. For
unlasting a shoe from the last the
upper portion is separated first.
then it becomes easy t0 unlast the
shoe from the last. Most of the Fig. 87b
hand made shoe makers are using
this last.[Fig. 87b]

c) ORDINARY OR CONVEN-
TIONAI HINGE
Itis also a two parl last but differs
entirely from scoop last. A 'V' cut
is made on the block as shown in
to facilitate the hinging system. A
Ietal Fig. 87c
piece connecting the front
 COMPREHENSIVE FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY

and rear section of the last to provide a tensioning force to keep the sections
together and in the desired position while breaking the last to shorten it and facili-
tate removal of the lasted shoe. [Fig. 87c]

d) TELESCOPIC HINGE
The system of shortening the last is
some how differs from the ordinary

hinge last as shown in figuge. There

no gap in between two blocks of
the last. Itshortened by moving in the
upward dirèction. [Fig. 87d] Fig. 87d

INTRODUCTION TO THE VARIOUS PARTS OF A SHOE LAST

Fig. 88a, 88b. 88c, 88d]

Stick Length

Fig. 88a
Tack holes

Diagram D

Heel plate

Half iron bottom

Full iron bottom

Fig. 88b

H 54 -
 LAST
. FORE PART : The portion of the last extending forward from thc brecak ol the
joint to the toe.

BACK PART The portion of the heel

: extending rearward from the hreak of the
joint to the back of the last.

3. BACR CONE: The portion of the cone surface bet wcen 'V' cut and the back
end or back curve of the last.

4. BACK CONE HEIGHT: The vertical distance betwcen thc hel feathcr line
plane and the back cone top lane.

5. BACK SEAM TACK HEIGHT : The vertica! distance between the heel feather
line plane and whe back scam tack
. BASE PLANE : That plane to which the last in its proper alitudc is referred for
the purpose of defining certain terms.

7. BREAST LINE: An arbitrary line defining the forward boundary of the heel seat.
8. FRONT CONE : That por.
tion of the cone surlace be.
BACKSEAM TACK
ween the vamp point and the
'V' cul. THROATOPENING

9 HEEIL CURV'E : A side INSTEP PONT-

ONG
oT HEEL
view profile of the back of GIRTH
the last from the top to the
VAMP PONT
heel seat feather line of the HEEL POUNT
last.

10. HEEL CURVE ANGIE:

GRT
The angle between the heel DIAGRAMA uST BAu 8REAK
feather 1line plane and a line
drawn from the heel poin
Fig. 88c
which intersects the heel curve
2 1/2 inch (63 mm.) up from
the heel
point [Fig. 88d).
11. HEEL ELEVATION : The last being
positioned on the base planc, the vertical
distance between the base plane and the heel
noint is the heel clevation.
12. HEEL FEATHER LNE : A Iline that defines the
heel seat shape. The heel
feather line plane is perpendicular to lust centerline
the thimble hole ccnterlinc.
plane and is perpendicular to
55 -
 u

COMPREHENSIVE FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY

13. INSTEP POINT: An arbitrary point established by the model maker for grading
purposes. It is located at the approximate midpoint of the last length of the front
cone profile. The instep point refers to the instep girth and the long heel girth.

14. INSTEP GIRTH: The dimension around a last fas per figure 88c) passing through
the instep point.

15. JOINT GIRTH: The greatest dimension around the last, passing through joint
break.

16. LAST JOINT BREAK : A point located at the intersection of the last bottomn
feather linéand the forepart, tangent to a plane pussing through the heel point and
perpendicular to the last centerline plane.

17. LONG HEEL GIRTH: The dimension around a last passing through the instcp
and heel feather line point.

18. LAST BOTTOM CENTRE LINE: A line defined by joining the toe point and
heel point.

19. LAST BOTTOM FEATHER LINE : The line whieh produces the bottom shape
of the last. [Fig. 88d

E c k seon

tock
Iheight

Cut Break cone

Front cone Back cone height
Fron
C t o
Heel
Curve

angle

B Wedge
T o e profile om
leathe
ine angle
Heel
vamp
lengm
Vamp tack feather line
Toe spring9
Breast line Heei
plane
Toe receje,

hank
./ elevation
Last joint break
Base plane
A Tread point

Forepart Back part

Fig. 86d

20. SHANK : The bottom area of the last between the breast line and last
joint
break.
56 -
 SS

LAST

21. THIMBLE : The thimble is a metal sleeve inserted in the top heel end of a last,
providing an opening for a mounting spindle or last pin.

22. TREAD POINT The point of the bottom forepart in contact with the base planc.

23. TOE SPRING: The vertical distanee between the base plane and the toe point of
a last having the desired hecl elevation.

24. WAIST GIRTH : The smallest dimension around a last between the joint girth and instep girth.

25. WALI : The portion around the periphery of the forepart of the last of a certain
style characterized by relativcly straight sides.

26. WEDGE ANGLE : The last being pusitioned at base plane. the anglc between the
heel feather line and the base plane is the wedge angle

CLassifvcahon efki last:

ENGLISH Si2E fRENeH SI2E
INFANTS TO &
18 2 5
CHILDREN- 9 To 1 26- 3 0
yoUTHS 2 T0 5 31 3 9
WOMEN S- 2 T0 8 3y y2
MEN'S 670 12
39- y7
 LAST SPECIFICATION
mentioned are obtained by measuring a certain
Several of the points
b
rtion of the standard length. This practice is continucd in Chapter
of the
and has the advantage that the instructions hold good, regardless
size of the model. The standard length is the length in inches of any gIven
to
English size and may be found by referring to p. 57. a lastimportant
It is
avoid confusion here because the actual length of may vary
standard length fixed for
is
according to the shape of the toe, whereas the individual last.
a particular size regardless of the length
of any

B
N Seat
Forepart Waist

toe shape; S centre

27. The bottom of the last. E centre of the
Figure ofE and S are diffieult to define,
but can

ofthe heel shape. (The positions breast

SL (standard length); B'B"
=

SB
be locatcd casily on the last);
=

SNJ' =90° (outside joint position);

of heel: SM ST.; MN -SL:
-

SMJ 90° (inside joint position)

C
Comb

E Ground line
Figure 28 The profile of the last: J point of contact or tread, PP
=
heel
height or pitch; EE' = toe spring; S = seat position; E = end of toes;

C counterpoint: SC 7 SL; V= vamp position, CV S ; Iin-

step; CLI = 90°; L is SL from C: T top of toes (highest point over
toes).

61