ProCondition

TM

22
INCI: Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Formulator’s Guide
Contents

ProCondition™ 22 Benefits VIEW

Use Levels, pH Requirements, and Ingredient Compatibility 03

How to Formulate - Two Pot Method 04

How to Formulate - One Pot Method 05

Neutralization Guide 06

Formulation Examples 07

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Use Levels and pH Requirement

Recommended Use Levels: pH Requirement:

•  inse-off conditioners: 1.0 – 5.0% (w/w)
R • pH between 3.5 – 6.5 is required for all applications
• Leave-on hair products: 0.5 – 3.0% (w/w) • pH adjuster guidance is provided on page 5
• Skincare emulsions: 0.2 – 5.0% (w/w)
• Surfactant systems: 0.5% (w/w)

Ingredient Compatibility

ProCondition™ 22 is not compatible with anionic
components such as:
• Anionic emulsifiers
• Anionic co-emulsifiers
• Anionic thickeners
• Anionic rheology modifiers or gums
Generally compatible with anionic surfactants when used
at the recommended use level.
Low electrolyte levels are preferred. Electrolytes can
negatively affect texture, viscosity, or stability.
Solvent-type preservatives may reduce viscosity and affect
high temperature stability. Examples include:
• Phenoxyethanol
• Benzyl Alcohol
• Caprylyl Glycol
If viscosity is lower than desired, the following ingredient
adjustments may increase viscosity:
• Reduce level of glycols (e.g. propylene glycol or propanediol)
• Increase fatty alcohol levels
• Incorporate nonionic water-phase thickeners

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Formulation Processing Instructions 1 2
Heat the water phase Heat the oil phase

Two Pot Process:

to 75 – 80°C. Add to 75 – 80°C. Add oil
neutralizing agent soluble ingredients to
and water-soluble the oil phase. Mix until
ingredients to the uniform.
water phase. Mix until
1. Heat the water phase to 75 – 80°C. Add neutralizing agent and water- uniform.
soluble ingredients to the water phase. Mix until uniform.

2. Heat the oil phase to 75 – 80°C. Add oil soluble ingredients to the oil
phase. Mix until uniform.

3. ProCondition™ 22 can be added to the water phase or the oil phase. Mix
3 4
until fully melted and uniform.
ProCondition™ 22 can Add oil phase to water
be added to the water phase at 75 – 80°C and
phase or the oil phase. mix until uniform. 
4. Add oil phase to water phase at 75 – 80°C and mix until uniform. Mix until fully melted NOTE: Homogenization
NOTE: Homogenization can be used; recommended homogenization conditions are 3 minutes at 3000 rpm. Cool and uniform. can be used;
to approximately 65°C. Propeller mixing can begin as soon as homogenization has stopped. recommended
homogenization
conditions are 3
minutes at 3000 rpm.
5. Cool to approximately 50°C with medium speed propeller mixing Cool to approximately
65°C before
transferring back to
6. Below 50°C mix slowly. propeller mixing.
NOTE: Low shear and slow mixing are necessary to create the lamellar gel network which provides emulsion
viscosity and stability.

5 6
7. Final pH between 3.5 – 6.5 is required for emulsion stability.
Cool to approximately Below 50°C mix slowly.
50°C with medium NOTE: Low shear
speed propeller mixing. and slow mixing are
necessary to create the
lamellar gel network
Processing Notes: which provides
• Homogenization is recommended to create a more uniform emulsion but is not a requirement. emulsion viscosity and
• Phase transitions during cool down are normal. This is the set-up of the lamellar gel network which provides emulsion stability.
stability, structure, and viscosity.
• Lamellar gel network based formulations are processing dependent. The type of shear, when the shear is applied, the 7
batch size, the cooling rate, and the order of addition of ingredients can all affect final viscosity and stability. Final pH between 3.5
• If adding ProCondition™ 22 to a surfactant system: add after the anionic surfactants, heat to 75 – 80°C and mix until – 6.5 is required for
uniform. emulsion stability.

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Formulation Processing Instructions 1 2
Heat the water phase Maintain temperature

One Pot Process:

to 75 – 80°C. Add at 75 – 80°C and add
neutralizing agent ProCondition™ 22 to
and water-soluble the water phase with
ingredients to the continuous mixing until
water phase. Mix until fully melted.
1. Heat the water phase to 75 – 80°C. Add neutralizing agent and water- uniform.
soluble ingredients to the water phase. Mix until uniform.

2. Maintain temperature at 75 – 80°C and add ProCondition™ 22 to the water

phase with continuous mixing until fully melted.

3. Add oil phase ingredients, one at a time with continuous mixing.

3 4
Add oil phase Maintain temperature
4. Maintain temperature at 75 – 80°C and mix until uniform. ingredients, one at a at 75 – 80°C and mix
NOTE: Homogenization can be used; recommended homogenization conditions are 3 minutes at 3000 rpm. Cool time with continuous until uniform.
to approximately 65°C before transferring back to propeller mixing. mixing. NOTE: Homogenization
can be used;
recommended
homogenization
5. Cool to approximately 50°C with medium speed propeller mixing. conditions are 3
minutes at 3000 rpm.
Cool to approximately
6. Below 50°C mix slowly. 65°C before
transferring back to
NOTE: Low shear and slow mixing are necessary to create the lamellar gel network which provides emulsion propeller mixing.
viscosity and stability.

7. Final pH between 3.5 – 6.5 is required for emulsion stability.

5 6
Cool to approximately Below 50°C mix slowly.
50°C with medium NOTE: Low shear
speed propeller mixing. and slow mixing are
necessary to create the
lamellar gel network
Processing Notes: which provides
• Homogenization is recommended to create a more uniform emulsion but is not a requirement. emulsion viscosity and
• Phase transitions during cool down are normal. This is the set-up of the lamellar gel network which provides emulsion stability.
stability, structure, and viscosity.
• Lamellar gel network based formulations are processing dependent. The type of shear, when the shear is applied, the 7
batch size, the cooling rate, and the order of addition of ingredients can all affect final viscosity and stability. Final pH between 3.5
• If adding ProCondition™ 22 to a surfactant system: add after the anionic surfactants, heat to 75 – 80°C and mix until – 6.5 is required for
uniform. emulsion stability.

5
 Neutralization Guide

Processing Notes
• ProCondition™ 22 only holds a cationic charge between pH 3.5 – 6.5.
Neutralize the formulation to this pH range.
• Always add the neutralizing acid to the water phase before adding
ProCondition™ 22.
• Neutralization is formulation dependent. The neutralization profiles shown
below are for guidance and were created using the Test Formulation.

Viscosity as a Function pH pH as a Function of Acid Concentration Test Formulation

140000 8.0
Ingredient %(w/w)
7.5
120000
7.0 Neutralizing Acid 0.30 – 1.00
100000 6.5 ProCondition™ 22 1.50
6.0 Cetyl Alcohol 4.50
80000
5.5
Stearyl Alcohol 4.50
60000
5.0
Spectrastat™ 1.00
Viscosity (cP)

40000 4.5
4.0 LexFeel™ N350 MB 1.00
20000
3.6 Deionized water Q.S.
pH

0 3.0
3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 8.0 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0 1.1
pH Acids Concentration %(w/w)

Aspartic Acid Glutamic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid Aspartic Acid Glutamic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid

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Formulation Examples

Micellar Color Protection Shampoo Micellar Color Protection Conditioner Gentle Exfoliating Cream Cleanser
(HC-1102) (HC-1026A) (SC-1064)
This novel shampoo provides sulfate-free cleansing without stripping the hair Pair this conditioner with the Micellar Color Protection Shampoo for the This creamy, soft cleanser exfoliates the outer layers of the skin to reveal a
of its dyed color or natural oils. ultimate hair routine. Natural conditioning agents and emollients condition, bright and rejuvenated complexion. It simultaneously conditions the skin
smooth, and nourish the hair with a soft afterfeel. which preps it for the next steps in the routine.

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department, through the nearest sales representative or authorized distributor. Articles found in this document may be patented. Inolex patent numbers and the associated patented articles can be found at www.Inolex.com/patents. ©2022 Inolex, Inc. All rights reserved.

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