3D

AWCY

P90
V8VTWIN/LULZGOAT
 Adventure Awaits all those ready to go through the
Stargate and oppose the Goa’uld. In order to kick some
ass, you need to get geared up first. What better way to
get your kit started than with the quintessential weapon
of SG1, the P90. Further inside these files we have the
instructions you need to build your very own P90 that
would make O’Neill proud. So dial the address and wait
for the chevrons to lock in and begin your fight.

Or Maybe?

Are you an aspiring Vaulthunter new to Pandora ready

to go forth and find fame, fortune, and possibly a vault
or two? But you have one problem, that bastard Marcus
kicked you off the bus and drove off before you could
grab your gear from the back, now he’s trying to charge
you an arm and a leg to get it back. Well, fuck him and
his vending machines. With a few parts from that broken
and helpless CL4P-TP unit laying over to the side calling
for help, you can make your own gear that would put
Atlas to shame.
FUC K F N
$3000??
W e ’ v e g o t
3 d p r i n t e r s
 Legal Notice
To the BATFE and Builders,

This project was originally designed and intended to be a braced pistol and fired with only
one hand. Since the conception and the time of release for the project this has maintained
as the original intent and was designed legally as a pistol to meet the current definitions of
such.

After further requests from some of the testers a version was modified to be a rifle version
and was modified to bring it up to the legal definition of a rifle, including but not limited to
removing the brace and rear trunnion, redesigning the rear trunnion to increase the length to
stay in compliance with O.A.L. requirements, and producing a new barrel length.

With both versions being released at the same time we again urge the builders to make sure
they are following all laws and regulations in whichever jurisdiction they happen to reside
in.

With Regards,
The AWCY? Team

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\///////////////////////////////////////////////////
Building firearms is an inherently dangerous activity. By downloading, manufacturing or
using any of the files in this release pack or using any critical dimensions from these files,
you agree to indemnify and hold harmless v8vtwin and AWCY? (Both the 501c and the
informal organization) for any injury that may occur from manufacturing or using this
design or any of its components. The person downloading, manufacturing or using this
design or its components agrees to follow all applicable local, state, and federal laws. As
with ALL AWCY? releases; The 3DP90 is released under creative commons non-commercial,
attribution, share-alike 4.0 which includes the main models, the barrel blueprint, and the
round counter and any other content contained within. That specifically means we do not
want commercial entities to make money off of the artwork that we release for free. We
are willing to make exceptions to this license however it requires prior consent from the
developer. As such, 1776supplyco shouldn’t bother trying because they will never receive
that consent due to V8 refusing send letters to prison.
R i f l e
Pistol
R i f l e
Pistol
 TA b l e o f
C o n t
Bill of materials

e n t s
Tools………………………………………………………………………….......Page 8

Main body………………………………………………………………………..Page 9

Bolt………………………………………………………………………………..Page 11

Magazine…………………………………………………………..……….…….Page 12

Integrated Optic………………………………………………………….……….Page 12

Round Counter…………………………………………………………….……...Page 13

Print Details……………………………………………………..……………………….Page 14

Construction

Clam Shell………………………………………………………………….……..Page 15

Bolt………………………………………………………………...……………...Page 22

Complete…………………………………………………………………..……...Page 29

Magazine………………………………………………………………..………..Page 36

Round Counter………...………………………………………………..………...Page 39

Barrel Manufacturing ……………………………………………......………......Page 62

Acknowledgments ……………………………………………………...…………..…Page 63
 Tools
1. Decent hex wrench set
2. Hacksaw (for aluminum)
3. Soldering iron
4. Heat set insert tips for soldering iron
5. Needle files set
6. Soup can (with soup removed)
7. Epoxy (always good to have on hand)
8. Source of heat (e.g. stove, lighter, or blowtorch)
9. Tool to cut spring: e.g. wire cutters, tin snips, needle-nose pliers
11. 13/16”-16 HSS right hand Thread Tap (optional)
* Mcmaster part#: 2595A397
* https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBMHS2M
* (McMaster is $70, buy the $20 amazon one)
12. Locking pliers with 1” grip
13. Electrical tape
14. Metaphorical cojones & hatred of the false god Apophis
 BOM:MAIN
* Supplier options listed under part name (at time of writing links listed were accurate, no
guarantee in they still are)
* Unless specific quantity noted, then purchasing 1 of listed item from supplier options will yield
sufficient quantities for completing this build
* Additionally you can just buy a build kit with all the hardware from 3dprintfreedom
(https://3dprintfreedom.com/3D-P90-Assembly-Kit-p548234035). If you’re only building one and
don’t already have some of the hardware, this may be the best option, compare costs and make the
decision yourself though
* Finally the parts linked are not guaranteed to be the lowest prices
Most parts can be sourced from McMaster Carr(www.mcmaster.com) or Amazon(www.amazon.
com)
1. AR fire control group
https://bkingsfirearms.com/shop/ar15-spare-lower-upper-parts/bkf-ar15-mil-spec-fire-control-
group-complete/
2. Antiwalk Pins
https://www.amazon.com/FZLMYANGNDQZ-Precision-Rotation-Trigger-Assortment/dp/
B0BWJTFXQV/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=anti+walk+pins&qid=1683232196&sr=8-2
3. Barrel
https://3dprintfreedom.com/P90-Barrel-p423723987
4. Aluminum flat bars
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-36-in-Aluminum-Flat-Bar-800207/204604761
5. M2.5 x 14mm flat countersunk screws
https://www.amazon.com/Flat-Head-Socket-Cap-Screws/dp/B0B84MR3B8?th=1
6. M4x10mm socket head screws
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Alloy-Steel-Socket-Screws/dp/B015A351WS
7. M4x15mm socket head screws
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-9180630-Socket-Screws-10-Pack/dp/B07D5TLBSG/
8. M4x30mm socket head screws
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094MWQG2C?th=1
9. QD cup from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/flipfit-Swivel-Detach-Button-Traditional/dp/B096DBPM96
10. flush mount ball spring plunger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085RWGQVF/
11. M6x45mm Chicago Screw
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-binifiMux-Countsunk-Furniture-M6x15mm/dp/B09571S37M/
12. M6x60 button head screw
https://www.amazon.com/MroMax-Button-Socket-Screws-Plating/dp/B07XY6PCRQ
13. M6x7x7.9 brass heat set inserts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TCC5K3P/
14. M6x25 button head screws
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J3Q44W3?th=1
 15. M6x30 socket head screws
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BP7LZZ6C/?th=1
16. M4 tapered heat set inserts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07473ZV71/
17. M4x25mm socket head screws
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Q7VQD17?th=1
18. 7/32” x 11/16” compression Springs
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50456A-Assortment-Compression-Extension/dp/
B000K7M36W?th=1
19. M3x200mm unthreaded steel rods
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-250mm-Stainless-Steel-Solid/dp/B082ZNRLJJ?th=1
20. 7/32” x 1-1/2” compression Spring
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50456A-Assortment-Compression-Extension/dp/
B000K7M36W?th=1
21. 9/32” x 3/4” compression spring
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50456A-Assortment-Compression-Extension/ /
B000K7M36W?th=1
22. M4 hexnuts
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGIY1N0/
23. M5 hexnuts
https://www.amazon.com/binifiMux-35Pcs-0-8mm-Stainless-Inserted/dp/B0761189F5/
24. M6 hexnuts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6MPLW8/?th=1
25. M6x8mm allen grub
https://www.amazon.com/50pcs-M6x8mm-Stainless-Socket-Screws/dp/B08C4V5TF4?th=1
26. M3x16mm countersunk flat head screws (used for g36 optic and rails)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801607716281.html
27. M3 heatset inserts
https://www.amazon.com/AIEX-Printing-Embedment-Automotive-4-6x5-7mm/dp/B09TNK8GD6/
28. M3x25mm allen grub screw
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3RJBCC/ref=ox_sc_act_
title_10?smid=A3B6VG34ZNMWH0&th=1
29. M6 Flange nuts
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Serrated-Flange-Carbon-Finished/dp/B09MH5N583?th=1
30. M5x40mm low profile flat head screw
https://www.amazon.com/Ewead-M5x40mm-Carbon-Profile-Machine/dp/B07BFNX95B/ref=asc_
df_B07BFNX95B/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475716026527&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hv
rand=10014057499672624268&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&h
vlocphy=1014221&hvtargid=pla-1214457884117&th=1
31. M6 rod (need one that’s at least 30 mm long to be on the safe side)
https://www.amazon.com/Utoolmart-to12mm-Speed-Machine-Length/dp/B07YBX3RVN?th=1
32. 2.5mm x 200mm unthreaded steel rod
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Lathe-Round-Solid-Length/dp/B07KT3J7T1?th=1
33. M3x15mm socket head screws
https://www.amazon.com/Axial-AXA117-Socket-10-Piece-M3x15mm/dp/B002QJF0XU
 BOM:BOLT
* Supplier options listed under part name (at time of writing links listed were accurate, no
guarantee in they still are)
* Unless specific quantity noted, then purchasing 1 of listed item from supplier options will
yield sufficient quantities for completing this build
* Additionally you can just buy a build kit with all the hardware from 3dprintfreedom
(https://3dprintfreedom.com/3D-P90-Assembly-Kit-p548234035). If you’re only building
one and don’t already have some of the hardware, this may be the best option, compare
costs and make the decision yourself though
* Finally the parts linked are not guaranteed to be the lowest prices
1. 2mm x 16mm steel dowels
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Dowel-Pin-Hardened-Steel-
1TY57
2. 3mm x 16mm steel dowel
https://www.amazon.com/METALLIXITY-3mmx16mm-Stainless-Fastener-Elements/dp/
B0B81PFCK7?th=1
3. 4mm x 300mm HSS Rods
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-300mm-Stainless-Steel-Solid/dp/B082ZNGFZY?th=1
4. 1LB Ingot of Cerrosafe
https://www.amazon.com/Low-Melting-Point-158-190F-Bismuth-Based/dp/B00B1U540Y/
5. 11” Long, 0.24” OD, 0.178” ID Music-
Wire (0.031” wire diameter) Steel Compression Spring
https://www.mcmaster.com/9637K41/
6. AR-15 detent spring
https://www.kakindustry.com/ar15-selector-detent-spring
7. 0.3mm x 4mm x 20mm compression spring
https://www.amazon.com/CREEYA-Compression-Assortment-Different-Stainless/dp/
B08KD5Q2P7?th=1
8. SendCutSend Plates made from included
DXFs [minimum order is $30 so order 3 of each plate]
https://app.sendcutsend.com/customer#/quote
9. M4x100mm countersunk screws (need to order 2)
https://belmetric.com/m4-torx-flat-head-stainless-steel-iso-14581/?sku=SF4X100TXSS
10. M4x4mm Allen Grub Screw
https://www.amazon.com/Augiimor-M4x4mm-Socket-Internal-Cup-Point/dp/
B09TK87B7G?th=1
11. 4-5mm E-Clips
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-300-Pcs-External-Retaining-Assortment/dp/
B079B9X3KC/?th=1
 BOM:Magazine
Bill of Materials: Magazine (Optional)
1. P90/PS90 Magazine Spring
2. P90 magazine delrin rollers (printed versions are available)
3. Strong bond Epoxy (V8 likes GorillaWeld)

BOM:Integrated Optic
1. 1x- G36 optic insert: https://www.apexgunparts.com/german-g3-g36-op-
tic-rangefinder-gd.html

2. 2x- M2.5x 5mm socket head screws

* McMaster part #: 94209A411
* https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKABOII
BOM:Round Counter
1. 1x- RP2040 1.25” Round LCD-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BCPGG812
2. 1x-- VCNL4040 module-
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4161
3. 5x- Bearings-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z3DYFXH
4. 8x- m2 screws & nuts-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ZHHSY92
5. 2x-pcb headers-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0948K51BL
6. 1x- pcb perfboard-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097NL4YZX
7. 2x- limit switches-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TYWX86
8. 1x- tactile switches-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VSNN9S2
9. 1x- battery-
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BTHHBZ8 1000mah- Requires
modified shroud
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BTKPSNP 500Mah - largest capacity
without modified parts
10. 1x battery adapter cables-
https://www.amazon.com/smseace-connector-Upgrading-Inducrix-JST-
PH2-0-15/dp/B088NQBF3V
11. a bunch of silicone wire-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KQ2JNLI
 
Print Details
All files recommended to be printed in PLA+ or better and at 8+ walls with
≥50% infill of gyroid or cubic style pattern

i e n ta t i o n s
Or
Construction: ClamShell
Printed parts:
- Safety
- Trigger
- L/R Front receivers
- L/R Charging handles
- L/R Side plates
- Bolt Hold Open (BHO) Lever
- Short bus front stub
- Sight Rail
- Barrel Shroud
- Barrel Shim
- Middle receiver
- Grip Panels (Vaulthunter)

Hardware parts: 1. Insert m6 grub screw into center hole of

- 1 m6x8 grub screw the bottom of the safety selector
- 1 ball plunger safety detent
- 1 7/32” x 1-1/2” compression spring
- 1 7/32” x 11/16” compression spring
- 5 m4x30 Socket cap screws w/ nuts
- 6 m4x8 heat inserts
- 2 m4x25 socket cap screws
- 2 Aluminum bar stock
- 4 m2.5 x 14 countersunk screws
- 8 m4x10 socket cap screws
- 1 m5x30 socket cap screw (or m6)
- 2 m4x15 socket cap screws
- 2 m3x15mm button head screws
- 2 m3 heatsets
Construction: ClamShell
Continued
2. Insert 7/32” x 1-1/2” compression spring into the rear hole of the trigger.

3. Place the ball plunger detent into the closest hole to the trigger guard.

4. Install safety into the R clamshell

5. Place trigger into the top groove first with the 7/32” x 11/16” return spring in the
trigger’s canoe at the top between the front of the canoe and the Spring Catch
Construction: ClamShell
Continued
6. Ensure the spring on the rear of the trigger is inside the notch on the clamshell and
place L clamshell on top of R clamshell/trigger assembly

7. Secure the clamshells with 3 m4x30 socket cap screws (5 if you’re riding the short
bus, in which case you’ll also install the short bus front stub) and matching nuts. Nuts are
placed on the side with the hexagon shaped holes.

8. Install 2 m4x8 heat inserts into the bottom holes in the back of the clamshell
Construction: ClamShell
Continued
9. Ensure the heat inserts are flat and use 2 m4x25 socket cap screws to attach middle
receiver to the front receiver.

10. Cut your aluminum bar stock to 200m (save the off cuts for the bolt hold open) filing
away any burs or shavings

11. Take a 5/64 drill bit and drill out your charging handle holes using the charging bar
jig and coat the back of your charging handles with epoxy. Then attach charging handles
with m2.5x14 screws. The receiver side should be flat and the epoxy will ensure the screws
stay in place.

Note, If you are making

the Bolt Hold open, use
the notch cutter slot on the
charging bar jig to ensure
the bolt hold open has
something to hold onto

12. Take your 13/16”-16 HSS right hand Thread Tap and run it through the threaded
portion of the trunion to clean up the threads.
Construction: ClamShell
Continued
13. Take your right and left receiver bridges and install the m3 heatsets into the lower jut-
ted out hole) and use 2 m4x10 socket cap screws to secure them to the top front most holes
on the side of your middle receiver and corresponding hole on the front receiver. Repeat on
the opposite side of the receiver assembly. If plastic strips out heat sets may be used.

14. receiver bridges are installed, insert charging handles (metal side up, printed handles
down) between receiver bridges and the receiver making sure it slides smoothly.

15. Push the charging handles all the way forward and mkes sure they do not stick out
inside of the trunion, if they do, mark how far they stick out and cut at the mark.

16. Use the printed BHO lever as a template to cut out the scrap bar material on your
charging handle into a BHO lever, the inner edge with the hook and pivot edge need to be
accurate but the rest you can modify to your liking.

17. Install the BHO lever onto the side plates using the m3x15mm screws and some blue
loctite with light torque so you can still pivot the lever.

19. Install the charging handles into the receiver.

Construction: ClamShell
Continued
19. Install 4 m4 heat sets into the sight rail or install 3 heatsets into holes at the top of the
barrel shroud (Depending on which shroud you are using)

20. Once the heat sets have cooled, install sight rail onto the barrel Shroud using 4 m4x8
or m4x10 socket cap screws.

21. Install barrel shroud onto clam shell assembly using an m6x30 screw and nut to
attach it to the front stub. Attach the rear of the barrel shroud to front most holes in the
charging handle side plate using 2 m4x15 socket cap screws. Heat sets may be used if pre-
ferred.
Construction: ClamShell
Continued
22. Once the barrel shroud is connected to the clamshells you can install your barrel.
Place the barrel shim over the threaded portion of the barrel.

23. Slide the barrel and into the end of the barrel shroud and carefully thread it into
the middle receiver. The face of the barrel chamber should fit flush or 2mm recessed with
the inner wall of the middle receiver. If it isn’t flush or slightly recessed, adjust the barrel
shim as necessary.

Your Clamshells are now Assembled

further touching of them now qualifies as a fetish
 Construction: BOLT
Hardware parts:

- Metal parts from laser cut service

- 2x 2mmx16mm hardened steel dowels
- 1x 3mmx16mm steel dowel
- 1x m4x4mm grub screw
- 1x 1lb ingot of cerrosafe
- 1x Ar-15 detent spring trimmed to 6.5mm
- 1x 0.3mmx4mmx20mm compression spring
- 2x m4x100mm countersunk screws
- 2x m4 flangenuts or locknuts
- 2x 11” long 0.24” ODx 0.178” ID music-wire steel compression spring
- 2x 4mmx214.57mm steel rods

Printed parts:

- Bolt Body
- Pour Guard
 Construction:
Continued
BOLT
1. Melt cerrosafe over a double boiler constructed out of a soup can and a pot

2. Install the pour guard on the bolt and pour melted cerrosafe into the bolt body (have
bolt body partially submerged in an ice water bath). After bolt is poured use a hack saw to
cut off pour guard and clear any blockages in the bolt body holes. Bolt weight should be be-
tween 325-350g. May need to clamp in vise during or right after pour to keep shape, or can
file it back to square using the plates as a guide.
 Construction:
Continued
BOLT
3. Countersink your screw holes in the front plate

4. Using your countersink bit, apply a chamfer to the ‘round-holder-hole’ on the front
face of the front plate to aid in feeding the rounds. do this to a fairly shallow depth - do not
fully counter sink - you want to give it a glide slope, but want at least half of the thickness
of the plate to remain untouched as a round retainer/centering function

5. Fit the spring, insert extractor, pin extractor. May need to trim the spring to get proper
round retention. Spring will insert from the bottom and be retained by a m4 grub screw top
with epoxy to prevent backing out (This makes disassembly impossible, but makes sure dis-
assembly happens only when you want it to)
 Construction:
Continued
BOLT
6. With a flashlight inspect the FP tunnel inside the bolt body. Look for any print
artifacts, trash, etc, ensure clean. Install FP and FP spring. You may have to drill the hole
up to take your specific spring. Ensure that with FP installed, with spring, and ejector rod
installed - all move freely in the bolt body without friction. If not likely the tunnel needs
some filing. Ensure the ejector rod coasts out the front of the bolt without snagging the front
plates. If necessary, relieve tunnel or plates - being sure to keep the FP nose centered on
boresight

7. FP retaining pin - install the pin in the body as you slide the FP and spring into the
tunnel. Once the first FP tab (pos stop tab) passes the pin, drive the pin fully, stopping the
spring. spring should push against the retaining pin and the aft/rear tab of the FP to return
it to the retracted position
 Construction:
Continued
BOLT
8. Protrusion - the forward lower tab of the FP is your ‘forward travel positive stop’ - this
tab runs into the printed body lip in the tunnel. hand file the front face of the tab to allow
more protrusion until you have the appropriate amount (0.45-0.75mm). Too little will result
in light strikes, too much will bust the primer. Go slow here. Take this time to smooth the FP
nose with fine sandpaper as well - no sharp corners or pokey bits

9. Hold the aft plate on the bolt body - check the FP travel. FP should protrude via the
spring pressure. When FP is at full forward travel, ensure no FP hangs out the back of
the rear plate. If you cannot get the FP to the full forward protrusion point (ie full forward
against positive stop) you may need to sand / file the aft face of the bolt body to allow the
rear plate to sit ‘lower / more forward’

10. Radius the bottom edge of the rear plate - this will aid in the cycling of the hammer -
provide it with a smooth ramp/engagement as the bolt travels aft

11. Screw together the bolt construction with 2 m4x100mm countersunk screws and nuts

12. Use bolt buildup to perform a function check on the weapon - note any scraping /
hanging / fail to feed or cycle the action
a. places your bolt is likely to ‘hang up’:
i. full forward in battery - make sure it glides effortlessly
from front to rear without the trigger pack installed
ii. junction from trunnion to rear trunnion - the feed tab may
snag here or you may get friction if you have a mismatch in the tunnel
iii. with trigger pack - the hammer and rear plate need some
loving to make them play nice - expect the first meeting to go rough, note where contact
is made. clear the weapon, ensure safe - deploy the hammer to the ‘fired’ position - slide
extractor rod into bolt over top of hammer - if no room, take note, hammer to be modified
after disassembly
 Construction: BOLT
Continued
13. Review the extractor throw and claw/sear - with a chambered case (or a live
round in a safe manner) glide the bolt down into battery, verify the extractor coasts
over the case and engages - ensure the bolt goes to full battery with a case in the
barrel. If not, examine headspace. Draw the bolt back and ensure the case comes with
the bolt, if not - examine the extractor throw and sear lip. If still having issues with
ejection use a fired case apply some flitz polish and chuck into a hand drill and polish
the chamber. Afterwards clean the chamber and the barrel thoroughly.

14. Relieve the top of the hammer if needed - the ejector rod will pass over the top of
the hammer - not all hammers may have to be relieved, your hammer may or may not.
Either way - ensure the top of the hammer has a groove / reduced height for clearing
the rod

NOTE: this cutaway is from

the old style bolt but it is
still an excellent reference
 Construction:
Continued
BOLT
15. Take the 2 4mmx214mm steel rods and insert THE PROPER END into the notching jig
THAT IS MARKED FOR THE END YOU ARE NOTCHING and notch the rods for the e-clips by
running it in a hand drill and holding a jig saw blade onto the bar for a few seconds. The
rod is perfectly notched when the hacksaw blade is completely horizontal

16. Cut 5 coils off each spring and Install the e-clips to the stock side of the rods and slide
the springs onto the rods.Make sure the springs are able to compress INTO the bolt, if they
are binding, Countersink the spring holes in the rear plate until they go in smooth. once this
is completed,compress the springs using the bolt pody and install the e-clips onto the front
of the rods once that is done, the bolt assembly is self contained
 Construction:Completion
Printed parts:
- Rear Trunnion
- Trigger pack
- Trigger Pusher
- Rear receiver
- Magazine catch 1. Install the 2 3mmx200mm steel
- Notching jig rods into the bottom 2 holes on the back
- Pistol Brace of the middle receiver these will act as
your trigger linkage. You do not need to
Hardware parts: glue these into place the run free along
- AR fcg the holes. If they hang up when inserted
- Anti-walk trigger pins into any of the holes you may need to run
- 2 3mmx200mm steel rods a drill bit through them to clear up any
- 1 2.5mmx164.25mm steel rod printing artifacts
- 2 4mmx214.57mm steel rods
- 5 m3x15mm screws
- QD cup
- 2 m6 flange nuts
- 2 m6x30mm scews
- 1 m5x40 countersunk screw
- 1 m5 nut
- 1 m6 nut
- 4 5mm E-clips
- 2 m6x25mm button head screws
- 1 m6x60mm button head screw
- 2 9/32”x 3/4” compression spring
- M6 dowel
- M6X 45mm Chicago screw
 Construction:Completion
Continued
2. Connect the rear receiver to the middle receiver using 2 m6x30 screws and m6 flange
nuts. The flange nuts will rest in the pockets in the ejection port of the middle receiver while
the screws go into the rear receiver. The rear receiver will also slide over the rods installed in
the previous step.

3. With the rear receiver installed onto the rest of the assembly insert the trigger pusher
into void and connect it to the trigger linkage rods. It will just press fit onto the rods glue is
not necessary
 Construction:Completion
Continued
4. Take the magazine catch and install the 2 9/32” compression springs onto the stubs
on the back.

5. Install the Magazine catch into the top of the rear receiver, it has slight lips built into
the print and will snap over the walls. The sloped portion of the mag catch will face up
while the flat portion faces down. Secure the catch in place using an m3x15 screw using the
small hole in the top of the receiver.
 Construction:Completion
Continued
6. Once the magazine catch is installed you can fit the magazine up with the receiver.
The front latch for the magazine was left slightly oversized to allow for minor discrepancies
between printers, their tuning, and different manufacturers of p90 magazines. Slowly and
carefully file down the areas in the front of the barrel shroud until the magazine goes into
place.

7. Take the trigger pack and install the AR trigger into the pack as you would for a stan-
dard AR with antiwalk pins. Do not install the trigger screws yet as they will hold the trig-
ger in place in the body. At this time also install the m6 rod into the rear of the trigger pack
to prevent disconnect over travel. Cut the rod down to the width of the trigger pack (trigger
pack shown is old style so it doesn’t have the disconnect over travel hole)

8. Insert the trigger pack into the rear receiver and maneuver down in place so it lines
up with the corresponding holes on the outside of the receiver then secure in place with 4
m3x15 screws.
 Construction:Completion
Continued
9. Next you will install the bolt into the rear receiver by sliding it into the rectangular
hole. The t shape of the bolt is the front and will thus be inserted first. You may use the
4mmx214mm steel rods to help guide it into place. Depending on your trigger you may
need to catch the back of the hammer with a hook and pull it down slightly to get the bolt
installed.

10. Take an m6 nut and place it into the recess slot in the bottom of the rear receiver right
behind the trigger pack.

11. Install the 2 11” long springs into the holes at the rear of the bolt and insert fully into
the recess (depending on if it fails to eject you may need to trim some coils off the springs
to reduce power, about 5 coils off each spring has worked well for various testers).

12. Install the 2.5mmx160mm rod that works as the ejector by pushing it into the center
corresponding hole in the back of the trunnion (may need to trim for proper ejection beta
testers were having good ejection with lengths between 153-160mm). They should all be
a snug fit, however you should secure it in place using the strongest epoxy known to man,
just make sure to stay straight and don’t angle any or it will cause problems with the bolt
cycling.
 Construction:Completion
13.
Continued
Take the Rear trunnion assembly and install it onto the rest of the p90 by lining
the ejector with the slot in the bolt. Once everything is lined up push the trunnion
fully onto the rear receiver, insert the pistol brace (or stock for rifle configuration)
and connect it in place using an m6x60mm screw into the rear bottom of the brace.

14. Install the QD cup onto the upper right side of the
rear receiver using an
m5x40mm countersunk screw (head may need to be
shaved down to fit into QD cup) and an m5 nut on the
left hand side. Note when the trunnion and rear receiver
are pushed together completely it allows the QD cup to
recess into both pieces to secure them in place.
 Construction:Completion
Continued
Install an m6x45mm screw onto the lower rear of the rear receiver, this will be threaded
into plastic so be careful with it. Alternatively you can use an m6x20 or 25 going from each
side.

Congratulations your p90 is now complete now go forth and do your function checks to
make sure everything is good to go before you go putting live rounds through it.
 Construction: Magazine
Printed parts: 1. Apply Epoxy to the inside lip of both ends
- Magazine Body- Feeder of the middle magazine body
- Magazine Body- Middle
- Magazine Body- Rear
- Follower
- Lockplate
- Floorplate
- Rollers (PRINT 3)

Hardware parts:
- Magazine Spring
 Construction: Magazine
Continued
Shove the feeder body into the thickened end of the middle magazine body. Afterwards
shove the rear body into the open end of the mag body and let cure.

Install rollers into magazine body, then attach the magazine spring to the printed follower
and install them both into the magazine body
 Construction:
Continued
Magazine
Compress magazine with lock plate (nub facing rear) and slide the floorplate onto the rear
of the magazine.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Printed parts:Printed parts:
- Bezel
- Housing Bottom
- LCD Housing
- Rail
- Rotary Arm
- Rotary Frame Insert
- Rotary Frame
- Rotary Sled Clip
- Switch Plate

Printed tools:
- PCB Cutting Template

Hardware parts:
- Bearings
- m2 screws
- m2 nuts
- m3 screws
- Limit switches
- RP2040 1.25” Round LCD
- PCB Headers
- PCB Perfboard
- Tactile Switch
- Battery
- Battery Adapter Cable
- Silicone wire
- VCNL4040 module
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Print all parts.
Many of these parts have tight, but printable tolerances. Print with your most accurate
settings. Go slow if you need to these are all small parts and print quickly. Below is the
recommended orientation. There is a .3mf file with the orientations set for all parts. The
orientation for most parts is intuitive. The housing is the most unorthodox, however this is
my most successful orientation.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Flash the Firmware. To flash firmware, you will simply need to plug in a usb cable to your
computer. Then while holding the boot button down on the rp2040 plug the usb cable into
the usb-c port.

When you plug it in a storage drive with the name RPI-RP2 should be mounted and it can be
identified by its contents.
There should be two files INDEX.HTM and INFO_UF2.TXT.

Drag and drop or copy-paste the firmware to this mounted drive, You will see the file
transfer running then see the rp2040 disconnect the drive. The rp2040 will restart and the
firmware is flashed. Disconnect the usb cable for now. We will not need it going forward
outside of charging the battery when we are done.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Fitting Switches and installing Hardware.
Grab your printed rotary frame, 2 m2x4 screws, 2 m2 nuts, and two of the referenced
bearings. Slip the screws through each bearing and then through the bearing with the flange
nearest to the head of the screw.
Pass this assembly through the bottom two holes of the rotary frame and secure with m2
nuts that will press into the bottom of the chassis.
Personallly I opted for m2x6 screws for ease of assembly and I have designed in
allowances to use oversized screws.

Next grab the printed rotary sled, 2 m2x4 screws, 1 m2x6 screw, 3 m2 nuts, 3 mentioned
bearings and the printed rotary arm.
Install the two outside screw, bearing and nut assemblies as you did in the previous step.
Then press the Rotary arm on to the last bearing with the flange the opposite direction to the
others. Then use the longer m2 screw and nut to secure this to the sub-chassis.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
We next need to fit the rotary switches, These do need to be a snug fit, so tolerances are
conservative, it is likely you need to sand file or otherwise open up these holes to fit in the
endstop switches.
The hinge of each switch will be nearest to the bottom of the rotary sled

These do need to sit flush with the bottom of the assembly.

 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Prepare and wire up the Diy PCB. Plug the long side of the double sided header pins into the
back of the lcd assembly on each side.

Then cut to length. The plastic is brittle so I found a sharp blade, and light pressure while
rocking the blade cuts best. Too much pressure or a sawing motion may shatter the plastic.
Be careful to not cut into the main pcb as you cut.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Now with the pins installed on both sides and cut to length place centered in the square
perfboard so no sides hang over the edge.

While holding the pcb and screen together flip the pcb over and place the screen face down
on a flat surface. Solder each pin to one of the copper plated holes being careful to not make
any bridges between pins. This is a small pin pitch so it is easy to add too much solder and
without the proper tools can be tricky to remove. Solder is not required on all pins here. But
at a minimum make sure all four corners of each side are soldered as well as any pins in
the wiring diagram that are shown as used.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Now flip the pcb over and unplug the screen by gently pulling upwards. Place the printed
template over the female side of the header pins, it should snap into place around the
headers.

With the printed template on the board trace the outside circle onto the pcb. I prefer to score
the pcb with a razor to get as close to the plastic as possible as you don’t want the pcb di-
ameter to be too large.
With the pcb marked you can now cut the perf board to shape. I had best luck using abra-
sive cutters, a Dremel makes quick work cutting through the pcb. If using a Dremel cut a
rough shape first and them come back and get as close to the scored or otherwise marked
line as you can. Perfection is not required here, but you do not want to cut too deep into the
circle and you do not want the circle oversized. Perfectly circular or smooth edges are not
required. My cleanest results were using a belt grinder with the plastic template left on and
slowly rotating the entire pcb around until the sandpaper just touched the plastic.
If you have removed the template reinstall it over the header pins and use it as a guide to
drill the four corner holes and the single center hole not pictured above. Drill these holes
with a 4mm drill bit. Make sure to drill gently and try to not blow out the backside. Cleanup
any stray fibers with a needle file or razor so you have fairly clean holes. You should be left
with a round pcb and holes for mounting and a single hole in the center not shown for pass-
ing the battery wires through in a future step.
Warning, This is fiberglass, so please wear respiratory and eye protection while cutting the
pcb.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
The center button is designed to work with a different pin pitch than the perfboard we are
using here so we need to make some light modifications to it to make it work here. The
general concept is to flatten out the legs so the are even with the bottom of the button itself,
This will be surface mounted vs its intended through hole use.

We then need to position this switch centered on the pcb between the two headers with the
legs running parallel to the headers. Solder the 4 corners in place making sure the bottom of
the button is sitting flat on the pcb
This will place 7 unused pads on either side of the legs of the switch, because of the
discrepancy of the pin pitch the top legs will sit 1 pad higher than the topmost pin of the
headers.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
We need to next wire up the internal connections for the pcb. Starting with the switch
connections. Using the provided wiring diagram wire the top left pin of the switch to the
appropriate pin on the bottom side of the header. Making sure that the wire is sitting flush to
the pcb and well below the height of the button. Repeat this process for the top right ground
pin for the switch.

Next is the jumpers to the pins that run to the VCNL 4040. I didn’t color code these out of
convenience. But you may want to color code these wires for ease of matching the long
wires that make the run to the sensor.

These wires are simply jumpers to to bottom center of the board. Make sure you are
referencing the wiring diagram as the power cable does jump to the outside of the header
and isn’t clearly shown in this image.
You can visualize these wires as traces on the motherboard where we will later connect the
sensor.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
After the center switch we need to pre cut 4 wires to 20mm, strip and tin each end, and sol-
der one side of each wire the appropriate locations on the board as indicated by the wiring
diagram. I went with blue for signal and black for ground.

Next cut 4 wires to 36 inches, I do think this Is the most important step to color code. One
of each red, yellow green and black. Strip, tin and solder one end of these to the vertically
adjacent pins that were run as traces on the pcb.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued

In this circumstance you can copy my wiring colors and placement, but please do reference
the wiring diagram. You can see in this photo that I staggered the wire distancing for ease
of soldering, however It is probably easiest to solder them in place directly adjacent to the
jumper wires.

Flip this pcb over and make a solder bridge between your “trace wires” and the long wires.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Now we need to solder the rotary switches to the wires previously soldered to the board.
Solder the wires to the two pins closest to the hinge.

We then need to position this switch centered on the pcb between the two headers with the
legs running parallel to the headers. Solder the 4 corners in place making sure the bottom of
the button is sitting flat on the pcb
This will place 7 unused pads on either side of the legs of the switch, because of the
discrepancy of the pin pitch the top legs will sit 1 pad higher than the topmost pin of the
headers.

Set this aside for a brief moment, We need to start putting parts into the rotary frame.
 Construction:
RoundContinued
Counter
Drop in the rotary sled. Line up the pocket on the sled with the small center tab on the rotary
frame. You will need to put this in at an angle and then press it down.

This is one of the tightest tolerance fits on this build. Make sure that it can sit flush and that
the sled can slide up and down about a mm. this movement allows the bearings on the sled
to disengage from the track on the bezel and then once the bezel is installed to slide out-
wards locking the bezel on.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Now pass the long wires through the cutout hole on the bottom and pass one of the male
battery adapters through the center hole in the pcb all the way through the bottom hole with
the other wires

We now need to get the switches reinstalled into the rotary frame, making sure the rotary
arm is sitting between the arms of the switches. These wires are pretty short so these next
couple of steps are limited on space.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Place the switch plate on top of the switches to lock things in place.
Press the pcb down and align the holes with the standoffs. Install 4 m2x10 screws through
the pcb directly into the standoffs. You will find that the screws will bottom out before the
pcb touches the standoffs, this is by design and allows the floating pcb to be used as a
button. Not is the perfect time to press down on the pcb and make sure the button clicks
when you press down and returns up when you release.

Plug the male battery connector into the back of the screen then
 Construction:
RoundContinued
Counter
Install the screen onto the headers and then flip the assembly upside down to attach a fe-
male battery adapter cable to the battery

Make sure to insulate these wire connections either with electrical tape, or heatshrink.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Flip the assembly back over, make sure that all waires are tucked into the chassis and
will not interfere with the bezel. Slide the bezel over the assembly at an angle starting at
the usb side of the pcb, You want to “hook” the bottom two fixed bearings into the inner
channel of the bezel.

Flip this assembly back over once again, and we will lock the sled in place fixing the bezel
to the assembly.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued

With the sled locked in place we can do a quick function test.

Holding the assembly on the bottom rotate the bezel, make sure you can feel the switches
click as you rotate both directions, and pressing the screen you can feel the tactile click and
return up.
Now press the rail into the pocket on the backside of the housing.

Insert the lcd assembly into the bottom of the housing, aligning the tab on the bottom and
making sure it seats on the “Shelf” that prevents it from pressing all the way through.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Install the bottom housing piece on top of the shelf. This will lock everything into place.
Make sure to align the top two tabs.

Now we can fold over all wires and tuck them into the wire routing channels inside of the
rail.
 Construction:
RoundContinued
Counter
Install your battery into the rail. Using double sided tape here has been my goto

Install the rail onto your Vaulthunter making sure the wires pass out the front of the rail
without getting pinched.
 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
Now we need to roughly estimate how much wire we will need to get the wires to the sen-
sor that will be installed in the ejection chute.

Cut your wire to length. Strip and tin the ends. We need to install solder the wires to the
vcnl4040. If you did not color match the wires I have used make sure you reference the wir-
ing diagram and the markings on the sensor pcb. I use double sided tape on the back side of
the vcnl to fix it to the pocket inside of the chute.
Slide the sensor into the grooves in the ejection port, making sure that the wires are facing
down out of the ejection port the sensors are facing into the ejection port. Press the sensor
down and secure it in the pocket then secure the wires in the vertical channel. I used a dab
of hot glue to keep them fixed.

Note your trigger bars cannot be installed for this step.

 Construction:
Round Counter
Continued
External cable routing is dealers choice, Tessa tape is probably the preferred method. Make
sure the wires do not interfere with the charging handles, magazine or trigger. V8 Said he
will eventually make one with internal wire routing, but nobody knows when.

Rotate the bezel so the usb port aligns with the hole to allow you to charge the counter up
for its first charge. You have now finished building your round counter.
 Barrel
Manufacturing
Parts:
- Barrel Blank
- Lathe
- 5.7x28mm Chamber reamer

Step 1. Do This

There is no step 2. if you can’t do that, Just buy a fucking barrel

 Acknowledgements
Credit goes to v8vtwin for designing the damn thing and allowing us to
be part of history like this, and LulzGoat who created the original bolt and
whose talent and input are the reason the project advanced to where it is
today. As well as all the beta testers who’ve improved the design through
trial and error.

Additionally, thanks go out to B who did the original guide that allowed
this guide to be built, DRCox, Wasmotumble, csprouts, J Taggert, JPGuncad,
nightalliance, and rustyshackleford777 for helping with this version of
the guide, JPGuncad again for creating the BHO and the experimental
binary fcg, Kabmi for improving on the firing pin and plate to pretty much
eliminate the risk of popping primers, EWW and firebirdta01 for their work
on getting the round counter running smoothly, and the one unnamed
beta tester who anointed the project with an unexpected blood sacrifice
(remember to keep the gun in a safe direction at all times & we’re glad
you’re able to walk again buddy).

Would also like to personally thank rustyshackleford777 for “leaking” the

files and readme early, it was a good laugh for those of us working on the
readme. Also I really hope some of the file goblins and others who hunt
after leaked projects have fun with included stls.
Special thanks to V@3dprintfreedom, Mr. Snow, Bitplumb, 40oz, and
Justinhates for all of their work since the beginning of the project

As a final note, everyone in the hobby continue to work on improving

guncad in the ways you are able to. We’ve made leaps and bounds from
the original liberator by Cody Wilson & the first 3d printed 5.7 firearm that
HaveBlue made in 2012 and lasted 6 rounds, to where we are today, so
let’s continue to improve and show all the gun grabbers and nay sayers that
YOU CAN’T STOP THE SIGNAL!