PATTERN DEVELOPMENT: 1

PROCEDURE TO CONSTRUCT BASIC BODICE BLOCK

BACK BODICE BLOCK CONSTRUCTION:

REQUIRED MEAUREMENTS TO CONSTRUCT FRONT BASIC BODICE BLOCK:
1. Total Front Length (TFL)
2. Front Width
3. Centre Front Length (CFL)
4. Front Neck Depth.
5. Apex Measurement
6. Centre Front to Princess Line Measurement
7. Front Waistline Measurement
8. Under Arm Seam Length
9. Shoulder To Waistline Measurement
10. Shoulder Measurement

Step: 1 - Take a drafting paper, whose LENGTH is TOTAL FRONT / BACK LENGTH (TFL /TBL)
whichever is higher plus 3” and WIDTH is FRONT WIDTH + BACK WIDTH (FW+BW) plus 4”.
Step: 2 - Fold the paper length wise and mark point A, 1” down from top edge of the folded
side of the drafting paper.
Step: 3 - Now mark A to B - TOTAL FRONT LENGTH (TFL).
Step: 4 - Mark A to C & B to D = FRONT WIDTH + ½” ease.
Step: 5 - Join C to D
Step: 6 - Mark D to E = CENTRE FRONT LENGTH (CFL). CE is FRONT NECK DEPTH.
Step: 7 - For NECK WIDTH mark CF = CE-1/8”. SQUARE OUT lines from E & F. Using a French
curve, draw the neckline curve.
Step: 8 – Mark point G - midpoint of DE
Step: 9 – Now mark GH - APEX MEASUREMENT
Step: 10 - Square a line from “H” to “I”
Step: 11 - Mark DJ - CENTRE FRONT TO PRINCESS LINE MEASUREMENT
Step: 12 - IK = I J, Join J and K to H
Step: 13 - KL - FRONT WAISTLINE MEASUREMENT MINUS DJ + 1/8” ease.
Step: 14 - LM - UNDER ARM SEAM LENGTH where M is on the fold line.
Step: 15 - M to M1 = M1 to M2 = 2 ½”
Step: 16 - B to N - SHOULDER TO WAISTLINE MEASUREMENT + ¾” ease where N is on the
fold line.
Step: 17 - N to N1 - ½”. Now draw the FRONT ARMHOLE curve using French curve.
Step: 18 - Join F to N1
Step: 19 - Mark F to F1 and N1 to O = ½ SHOULDER MEASUREMENT
Step: 20 - Join F1 to H and O to H.

BACK BODICE BLOCK CONSTRUCTION

REQUIRED MEAUREMENTS TO CONSTRUCT BACK BASIC BODICE BLOCK
1. Back Width
2. Centre Back Length (CBL)
3. Back Neck Depth
4. Back Waistline Measurement
5. Centre Back to Princess Line Measurement
6. Centre Back Length (CBL)
7. Back Shoulder Blade Measurement.
Step: 21 - Extend AC line, BD line, L M line and M M1 line on the other half of the drafting
paper.
Step: 22 – Trace BL1on the other half of the drafting paper.
Step: 23 - Mark A to A1 and B to Z = BACK WIDTH + ½” ease.
Step: 24 - Z to Y - CENTRE BACK LENGTH (CBL)
Step: 25 - A1 to Y is BACK NECK DEPTH.
Step: 26 - For NECK WIDTH mark A1 to W = CE-1/8” or CF
Step: 27 - SQUARE OUT lines from Y & W. Draw the neckline curve as using a French curve.
Step: 28 - W to P - ½ SHOULDER + 1/8” ease.
Step: 29 - P to P1 = ¾”
Step: 30 - P1 to P2 = W to P = ½ SHOULDER + 1/8” ease
Step: 31 - Mark Y R - ¼ CENTRE BACK LENGTH (CBL)
Step: 32 - R Q = BACK SHOULDER BLADE MEASUREMENT.
Step: 33 - QQ1 - Draw 1” down.
Step: 34 - Z to U - CENTRE BACK TO PRINCESS LINE MEASUREMENT.
Step: 35 - L1 to V = BACK WAISTLINE MEASUREMENT MINUS CENTER BACK TO PRINCESSLINE
MEASUREMEN + 1/8” ease.
Step: 36 - The difference now is DART INTAKE at U. Mark U to V = DART INTAKE.
Step: 37 - T is midpoint of U and V
Step: 38 - Square out from T to S. Join S to U and V.
Step: 39 - Join P1 to P3 such that P3 is 1” above the SHOULDER BLADE line (RQ),
Step: 40 - Draw the armhole from P2 to M through QQ1 points using FRENCH CURVE.
Step: 41 – Now Truing or correcting the lines or darts at FRONT SHOULDER, BACK
SHOULDER, and at WAISTLINE.
Step: 42 – Trace the BLOCK in the pattern sheet adding necessary seam allowances as
mentioned below:
¼” for sharp curves.
½” for neckline, armhole, waistline, style line.
1” for side seam, center line, shoulder, plackets.
2” for straight hemline.