10 knockout salads: Roasted red pepper pearl barley with BBQ prawns

Asian-style wilted chard and beef • Raw, rainbow crudo

spicy beetroot with ramen eggs and sriracha • and more!
O AUGUST 2017

AUGUST 2017 • UK £4.35

Prosecco-
poached
peaches
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Grilled paprika langoustines with garlic aïoli • Summer roast lamb with tomato and caper marinade • :THJRLK I\ HSV J\J\TILYZ

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lemon cake
Celebrating
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Omagazine.com

i
New, easy
Italian classics
to master this summer
to tart up
shop-bought hummus
Ståle’s been a fisherman in Norway for 40 years.
Where he’s from, that’s just a drop in the ocean.
Ståle grew up on the Norwegian island of Godøy, a word that stretches back to the Vikings.
Here, each generation inherits thousands of years of seafaring knowledge as a matter of course.
For Ståle, it came from his father on their family vessel, the Veidar. And today, he uses the
same long line techniques his father taught him to land quality, sustainable Norwegian
seafood to share with the rest of us.
Ståle Dyb, Skipper, Loran

seafoodfromnorway.co.uk @norwayseafood seafoodfromnorway


PORTRAIT: ROB STREETER. PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON. FOOD STYLING: AMY STEPHENSON
For more
recipes visit
O of an Italian renaissance. With fresh pasta bars and pizzerias popping up alongside
magazine.
com
SO WHAT IS O ?
We’ve the industry’s most
passionate team of food
and drink experts, gorgeous
photography, and inspired
tried-and-tested (three times!)
recipes. Whether you’re cooking
at home, eating out, or travelling
with mealtimes in mind, O
is the place to start.
Welc ome t o
Au u
One of the most frequent questions that I get asked, as editor
of O, is what’s been your favourite meal? It’s such
a hard one to answer, because of course it depends on your
mood, the company, the location – all manner of factors.
But one meal that sticks in my mind is a rich hare ragu
entangled in folds of buttery pappardelle (an icy negroni
on the side, naturally), tucked down a cobbled side street
of Rome, as I hid in the shade.
It was so simple, really – just beautiful ingredients cooked for as long as they
take with minimal intervention. And it’s this approach, I’m sure, that is why
Italian cuisine continues to be one of our nation’s favourites. It’s quick and easy
but packed with flavour – ingredients are king. And it seems we’re buying into this
ideology more than ever with a new trend we’ve noticed. There’s been something
modern Italian restaurants focussing on regional, authentic dishes and fresh
flavours, carbs are finally cool again! Britalian no longer means spag bol and
claggy carbonaras but light and pretty salads like the one on our front cover,
impressive puddings like our caffè latte panna cotta with espresso syrup, and
indulgent (heady with umami) t-bone steak with gorgonzola fonduta and deep-fried
polenta nuggets as shared by the clever chefs at Trullo, in London.
We’re celebrating with a tribute issue to contemporary Italian food, drink and
travel – with a guide to the best Italian wines (and what to drink them with), the
top Italian restaurants to visit in your area, and where to jump on a plane to.
There’s plenty more in between, as well, which I’ll let you discover for yourself.
And I do hope that one of the recipes from this issue may become one of your
favourite meals, too.
Laura Rowe, Editor @Omagazine @lauraroweeats
August 2017 Omagazine.com 3
 EDITORIAL
EDITOR Laura Rowe
FOOD DIRECTOR Janine Ratcliffe
ART DIRECTOR Gillian McNeill
CHIEF SUB & PRODUCTION EDITOR Dominic Martin
WEB & COMMISSIONING EDITOR Charly Morgan
ACTING WEB & COMMISSIONING EDITOR Alex Crossley
TRAVEL EDITOR Rhiannon Batten
ART EDITOR Nicki Smith
COOKERY WRITER Adam Bush
SUB EDITOR Hannah Guinness
ACTING EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Ellie Edwards
DIGITAL INTERN Amanda James
WITH THANKS TO Charlotte Maguire, Karen Yates, Peter Chapman
To email us, please use firstname.surname@immediate.co.uk

RECIPE, RESTAURANT AND TRAVEL ENQUIRIES

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Need to know 44 Take a dip Tart up shop-bought
6 Recipe index hummus with our clever toppings
CIRCULATION AND SUBSCRIPTIONS 11 Here & now How to wow with a 46 Salt-baked rainbow trout Cookery
DIRECT MARKETING MANAGER Natalie London
DIRECT MARKETING EXECUTIVE Charlie Knockton vegan raw salad, inside the fridge writer Adam Bush shares his tricks
DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Phil Byles of Insta-star Her Dark Materials, 48 Cook everyday Easy midweek
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and the must-buy Italian goodies meals including cod with tomato
SYNDICATION AND LICENSING
DIRECTOR OF INTERNATIONAL LICENSING AND SYNDICATION of the year bean stew, sweet soy-glazed pork
Tim Hudson 114 The lowdown Food director Janine chops and linguine with prawn
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cook
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Bureau 9 Cover star Tomato salad with
burrata and warm ’nduja dressing
20 In season Make the most of
melon, cucumbers, sea bream
and langoustines this month
O is owned and published by Immediate Media Company London 29 Italy on a plate We asked five
Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. ISSN 1742/115.
Printed by Wyndeham Roche Ltd. Copyright Immediate Media Company of our favourite Italian restaurants
London Limited 2017. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without
permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in
to share their winning recipes
advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations. All prices correct at time 36 Dolce! Our stunning show-off
of going to press. UK basic annual subscription rate for 13 issues: £56.55.
Europe/Eire £65, rest of the world £85. desserts use classic flavours of Italy
61 Healthy trends Enjoy six salads
that are packed with flavour, high
in protein and low in salt
66 Freezer pleasers Give your
midweek meals some Mexican zing
with this pork pibil
68 Roasted red peppers Three
delicious recipes to try, including
sage, honey and roasted red
pepper cornbread
117 Pizza swirl bread

4 Omagazine.com August 2017


42 32
74
eat explore
74 Pasta cool Let O be your carb 100 Cook like a local: London
guide to a new wave of authentic,
regional Italian restaurants that have
opened up across the UK
81 Chef’s table David Gingell
shares globally-inspired recipes
from his hot new London
restaurant, Westerns Laundry
86 Pro vs punter Laura Rowe and
Steven Walker compare notes on
Malibu Kitchen at The Ned, London
88 Table hopping Our newest
restaurant recommendations,
plus news from around the UK
92 Hot off the pass We meet Simone
Tondo, a cavalier young Italian chef
making waves with his borderless
cuisine in the heart of Paris
94 The measure What to drink
and where to drink it, including
Pimm’s alternatives and unsung
Italian wines
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71 Reader offer – get grilling
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The best places to eat and drink,
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104 On the road: Scilly Isles 117
Clare Hargreaves discovers
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110 Stopover: New Orleans
Your essential itinerary for a
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Wood-fired pizzas, single-variety
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Grazie mille!
112 Food mileage
The latest openings and food travel
trends around the world
113 Instatravel Abruzzo, Italy
August 2017 Omagazine.com 5
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SEASONAL RECIPE INDEX
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VEGAN V VEGETARIAN LC LOW-CAL RECIPES* GF GLUTEN FREE** 4 FREEZABLE DRINK

STARTERS, SIDES, SNACKS & DRINKS 34 T-bone steak, wild mushroom and 64 Romanesco cauliflower, apple and
58 Beetroot pickled eggs V GF marsala with deep-fried polenta freekeh with horseradish and dill V LC

58 Beetroot tzatziki V GF and gorgonzola fonduta 68 Spaghetti with avjar, mozzarella and
58 Cottage cheese with za’atar V GF 62 Wilted chard and beef LC smashed olives V

58 Crudité platter GF 83 Spiced aubergines and tomatoes

12 Crudo veg salad LC Fish & seafood with yogurt V

32 Fried courgette flowers with honey 84 Baked lobster fideo pasta 65 Spicy beetroot and pak choy with
and vinegar V 49 Cod with tomato bean stew LC ramen eggs and sriracha V LC

83 Grilled mackerel with Korean chilli 22 Grilled paprika langoustines with 60 Warm pitta, yogurt and
95 Il aperitivo gallicus roast garlic aïoli GF chickpea salad V

58 Plum drinking vinegar 50 Linguine with prawn butter sauce

58 Roasted broccoli and chilli GF 64 Roasted red pepper and pearl barley BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, BAKING & PUDDINGS
70 Sage, honey and roasted red with barbecued prawns LC 42 Almond and Amalfi lemon cake
pepper cornbread 46 Salt-baked rainbow trout GF 42 Amaretti milk ice cream 4
24 Smacked buffalo cucumbers GF 22 Sea bream ceviche with 42 Black cherry granita LC GF 4
13 Teriyaki aubergine charred sweetcorn GF 43 Caffè latte panna cotta with
9 Tomato salad with burrata and warm 52 Smoked trout and gruyère omelette LC espresso syrup GF

’nduja dressing GF 32 Sugo scoglio 84 Gin and tonic granita LC 4

117 Pizza swirl bread 4
MAINS Birds 43 Prosecco-poached peaches
Meat 102 Grilled quail and burnt bay bread sauce and raspberries GF

34 Calf’s liver involtino with pancetta 54 Summer chicken filo pies LC 43 Rich chocolate and hazelnut torte
and rosemary 69 Tray-baked chicken thighs with romesco
23 Melon gazpacho LC GF

66 Pork pibil LC 4 Vegetables

51 Quick pickled courgette, ham hock, 32 Burrata, pea gazpacho and Qu�c�-f��
pea and goat’s cheese salad
63 Roasted red pepper and chicory with
LC vignarola salad
116 Casarecce with raw tomato sauce
V GF
h�m�u� t�p�i�g�
caper berries and salami 62 Grilled aubergine with red �44-45
26 Summer roast lamb with tomato butterhead and salsa verde LC GF /HYPZZH HUK `VN\Y[ Z^PYS
and caper marinade LC GF 58 Kuku sabzi V GF 6SP]L ML[H HUK ZTVRLK WHWYPRH
49 Sweet soy-glazed pork chops LC 52 Red rice and kale salad with :WPJ` SHTI
burrata and beets V LC ;VHZ[LK WPUL U\[Z HUK SLTVU
25 Risotto verde LC

* LOW-CAL = UNDER 550 CALORIES, SUITABLE FOR THE 5:2 DIET. FOR MORE HEALTHY IDEAS HEAD TO P61. ** RECIPES ARE GLUTEN-FREE ACCORDING TO INDUSTRY STANDARDS

6 Omagazine.com August 2017

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 COVER
star
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph ANT DUNCAN
STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE. FOOD STYLING: KATY GREENWOOD

COOK’S NOTES

August 2017 Omagazine.com 9

Just like Grana Padano cheese, true taste and real origins simply cannot
be imitated. That is why the European Union created the Protected
Designation of Origin scheme. PDO makes regional specialities with
centuries of tradition easier to recognise. So next time you want to
����� ��� ������������ ϔ������ �� ����� ������ ����������ǡ ���� ���
the PDO logo.
Follow our tradition at Proud carriers of the PDO logo.
www.granapadano.it

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND ITALY.
 HERE & NOW
How to wow with a vegan
raw salad, inside the fridge
of Insta-star Her Dark
Materials, and the must-buy
Italian goodies of the year
PHOTOGRAPH: ROB STREETER. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH.

Crudo veg
salad p12
WORDS: ADAM BUSH, ALEX CROSSLEY, JANINE RATCLIFFE, LAURA ROWE

TRENDS
TRANSLATOR
Each month, the O
magazine team spots a hot new
trend appearing in restaurants
across the UK and then
translates it for you to cook at
home. This time we go raw,
Italian style, with crudo.
»

August 2017 Omagazine.com 11

 TREND SPOT
HEAR US RAW
Italian food is having its moment in the (British)
sun and one particular dish that’s caught the
try the trend
attention of restaurateurs right now is crudo.
Meaning ‘raw’, crudo is all about the
ingredients. The same rules apply whether
yourself...
you’re using fish, meat or veg – only the Kohlrabi is in season right now,
freshest and most seasonal of ingredients too, and works so well in raw
will do. You want as little time from sea/soil/ salads. We love this recipe by
paddock to plate as possible. Fish crudo is Duck & Waffle chef Dan Doherty
popular along the coasts of mainland Italy, with apple, dill and yogurt – search
Sicily and Sardinia, and at its most basic can for it on Omagazine.com.
be dressed with just olive oil, salt and lemon
juice. Temperature is key – serving crudo
straight from the fridge will dull the flavours.
Here, we’ve applied the treatment to seasonal
veg to make a colourful, crunchy and vibrant
summer salad. Pile it high and dig in.

Crudo veg salad

15 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY | LC

Most of these veg are best sliced on a

mandoline – but if you’re not comfortable WASTE NOT,
using one, or don’t have one, slice
everything as thinly as possible or use
a vegetable peeler.
WANT NOT
carrot 1 medium, thinly shaved
baby courgettes 4, thinly shaved
fennel 1 small, thinly sliced
radishes 4, thinly sliced
Pink Lady apple 1, cored and thinly sliced
candy beetroot 1 medium, peeled and
thinly sliced
mint a small handful of leaves
basil a small handful of leaves
DRESSING
extra-virgin olive oil 4 tbsp

PHOTOGRAPHS: ROB STREETER. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH
lemon 1, zested and juiced
red chilli 1, seeded and finely chopped

• Put the carrot, courgettes, fennel, radishes

and apple in a bowl filled with iced water,
and leave for 5-10 minutes – this will make
them crunchy. Drain well and pat dry on
kitchen paper.
• Whisk together the extra-virgin olive oil,
lemon zest and juice and red chilli with some
seasoning in a bowl, then add the beetroot
and vegetables. Toss well, scatter in the
herbs, spoon onto a platter and serve.
PER SERVING 176 KCALS | FAT 12G | SATURATES 1.8G
CARBS 11.2G | SUGARS 8.9G | FIBRE 4.3G
PROTEIN 3.7G | SALT 0.3G
Imagine a farmers’ market that allows you
to pre-order exactly what you want online.
This is the model the Food Assembly has
created to connect consumers and
producers directly. There are over 900
assemblies already up and running, and the
concept is brilliantly simple. Join a local
assembly, order online from the producers
connected to them, then go to a weekly
pop-up to collect your shopping (and meet the
makers). The immediate benefit to producers is
that they know exactly how much stock has
been sold, so there is zero waste from unsold
produce. If you are interested in setting up your
own local assembly it’s a simple registration
process, with both online and one-to-one help
to get you started. thefoodassembly.com

12 Omagazine.com August 2017

 HERE & NOW

FOOD DIRECTOR’S SHOPPING BASKET JANINE LOVES

KIKKOMAN
Janine Ratcliffe’s favourite new products TERIYAKI SAUCE
I’ve always been a fan of Kikkoman soy sauce. This naturally brewed WITH TOASTED
SESAME
condiment has only four ingredients: soy beans, wheat, water and
salt, and delivers a pure, intense umami hit. It’s also the base for this
new teriyaki sauce with toasted sesame, which blends soy with
toasted sesame seeds, garlic and a touch of sugar to make a rich,
sticky stir-fry sauce or glaze. I love brushing it on grilled or roasted
veg for a quick flavour boost. £2.79/250ml, Ocado

Teriyaki aubergine
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A SIDE
EASY |

red chilli 1, sliced

ginger a small chunk, shredded
rice vinegar 2 tsp
caster sugar a good pinch
baby aubergines 8, halved
lengthways
sesame oil 1 tsp
sunflower oil 1 tbsp
Kikkoman teriyaki sauce with
toasted sesame 4-6 tbsp
spring onions (greens only), sliced
to serve

• Toss the chilli and ginger with the

rice vinegar and caster sugar, and
leave to sit.
• Heat the oven to 190C/fan
170C/gas 5. Score the flesh of the
aubergines in a criss-cross pattern,
but don’t cut through the skin.
Mix the oils and brush all over the
aubergines. Season.
• Put the aubergines cut-side up in
a roasting tin. Roast for 20 minutes
then brush over the teriyaki sauce.
Keep roasting for another 20-30
minutes, until tender. Scatter over
the spring onion greens, chilli and
ginger just before serving.

PER SERVING 105 KCALS

FAT 4.2G
SATURATES 0.6G
CARBS 13G
SUGARS 12.6G
FIBRE 4.2G
PROTEIN 1.8G
SALT 1.4G

August 2017 Omagazine.com 13

 Mr Organic Sicilian
lemon conserve
Made from hand-peeled,
thick-cut organic Sicilian
lemons, this fragrant conserve
has just the right balance of
sweet and savoury, so it would
work equally well in a fruity
BBQ glaze, or simply spread on
toast for a morning pick-me-up.
£3.39/360g, ocado.com

quick
Tortine della nonna
Abel & Cole organic Soho’s famous Italian deli Lina Stores
cherry tomato passata has launched individual portions of its
Abel & Cole creates celebrated Tuscan ‘grandma’s tart’. We
this rich passata love the sweet ricotta, vanilla and lemon
with organic Sicilian zest filling for an authentic taste of Italian
home baking. £2.95/190g, Lina Stores,

BITES
cherry tomatoes,
extra-virgin olive oil London W1
and a sprinkle of
salt. Just add fresh
basil and pecorino
for a simple, Crosta & Mollica rosemary linguette
summery pasta We’ve searched through the best These crisp, hand-stretched Italian
sauce. £2.25/330g, flatbreads are given extra flavour with
abelandcole.co.uk Italian delis and suppliers to find flecks of rosemary and sea salt.
a range of artisan products to A speciality of Liguria and Piedmonte,
they’re even better topped with cheese
get your summer going and honey, alongside a chilled Aperol
spritz. £1.90/150g, Sainsbury’s

Fabbri cherries
These bittersweet, dark red cherries are
an Italian classic. Coated in an amarena
cherry juice syrup, they are the perfect
topping for ice cream. £4.99/230g,
melburyandappleton.co.uk

Massimo Bottura Villa

Manodori Italian
extra-virgin olive oil
Give your dishes a
Michelin-starred drizzle
with artisan olive oil
from Italy’s most
acclaimed chef.
Hand-picked olives are
cold-pressed to create
a smooth and slightly
spicy Tuscan oil.
£12.95/250ml, Datterini tomatoes
harveynichols.com Traditional Italian methods are
used to preserve the bright flavour
in these semi-dried tomatoes.
This handy jar will complement
any antipasti spread. £2.60/280g,
Marks & Spencer

14 Omagazine.com August 2017

 HERE & NOW

FRIDGE Ever wondered what your favourite foodie

has lurking in their fridge? We ask Rosalind

RAIDER
Atkinson, Cotswolds-based photographer,
writer and part-time liqueur maker

I get pork belly from

Daylesford Organic
Farm Shop down the
road from me, near
Kingham. It’s dense
and meaty, and
makes the best
crackling. I’ve been
I worked in a cheese using it in a great
shop for a while, so O recipe (search
I got to know all the twice-cooked
best cheeses. Named Chinese pork at
after the standing Omagazine.com).
stones in nearby
Chipping Norton,
Rollright is a sublime
reblochon-style
Amalfi lemons are
cheese. (It makes the
like sunshine in a bowl.
best tartiflette, ever!)
I slice them thinly,
roast with salt and
sumac, and then eat
them like crisps. Or
just squeeze over
absolutely everything.
Our floral Gibson’s
organic elderflower
liqueur is made from
hand-picked flowers
grown in the
Quail’s eggs. I love
Cotswolds, and it’s
them. Perfect for when
heavenly in fizz or a
you’re entertaining and
G&T. For a summer
want to look as though
dessert, swirl into
you spent hours shopping
whipped cream and
in expensive delis. Pop
mix in gooseberries to
into an otherwise
make a perfect fool.
two-dimensional salad,
and suddenly you’re
hostess of the year.
An oldie but a goodie.

I love cardamom in
cakes, soups, curries
– everything! I can’t FOLLOW
get enough of the
@her_dark_materials
fragrance; try in on Instagram
a chocolate cake
to make it more
mysterious.

August 2017 Omagazine.com 15

 HERE & NOW

IT’S THE SMALL THINGS

Pinch pot ceramics. Give an earthy, artisan look to your kitchen with
this range of handmade porcelain spoons and dishes. We love the
Greek island hues. From £14, lunaandcurious.com

kitchen craver
Add bold blues, oranges and yellows to your
UPTOWN FUNK
Sainsbury’s South American collection. Mix and match electric blues and
bright oranges with this vibrant range of crockery. From £3, Sainsbury’s
kitchen for cool summer sunshine vibes

COOL BREEZE IT’S GONNA

Terracotta wine cooler. OF ALL STRIPES BE A BRIGHT,
A Dutch-designed wine cooler, Jemma throw. Whether it’s a posh BRIGHT
no wonder it’s so stylish! The cool picnic or a Mediterranean-style feast on SUNSHINY DAY
mint glaze on Anouk Jansen’s your patio, this intricate, hand-woven BundleBerry
Portuguese terracotta vessel makes throw will add a touch of luxury to ceramic vase.
it a pretty, rustic centerpiece for the al fresco dining this summer. Amanda Holden has
dinner table. £35, howkapow.com £88, anthropologie.com designed a range
of quirky pieces
exclusively for QVC.
This colourful vase will
brighten up any
kitchen worktop.
£15, qvcuk.com

THIS, WE KNEAD
Moroccan bread
baskets. These GO FISH
artisan baskets are Catch of the day mug. This mug has some
individually sourced serious seaside vibes. Boil up your favourite brew
from Morocco, and take some time out to dream of sun, sea and
which means sand. £11.50, papastour.com
they’re completely
unique in weave
and colour. Your
bread will never feel
more special. £35,
monpote.co.uk

16 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

ugust
Every recipe you’ll need this month,
including dishes straight from the
menus of our favourite modern Italians
and showstopping puddings for easy
entertaining. PLUS loads of quick
and healthy midweek meals

Melon gazpacho | Chocolate and hazelnut torte |Sea bream ceviche

PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN

Caffè latte panna cotta | Cod with tomato bean stew | Pork pibil
Tray-baked crispy chicken thighs | Linguine with prawn butter sauce
Fried courgette flowers with honey and vinegar | Black cherry granita
August 2017 Omagazine.com 19
Se�s�n��
Make the most of melon,
cucumbers, sea bream
and langoustines
this month
Recipes ADAM BUSH
& JANINE RATCLIFFE
Photographs
KRIS KIRKHAM

Sea bream
ceviche with
charred
sweetcorn

20 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Grilled paprika
langoustines
with roast
garlic aïoli
STYLING: ROB MERRETT. FOOD STYLING: EMILY KYDD

i n’
finger-lick es
langoustin
August 2017 Omagazine.com 21
 Match s�e��, p�u��
l�n�o�s�i�e� witH
p�n�h� garlic
Sea bream ceviche
with charred
sweetcorn
30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | GF
corn-on-the-cob 1
olive oil
sea bream fillets (fresh as
possible) 4, skin removed
spring onions 2, finely chopped
red chilli 1, finely sliced
avocado Ω, peeled, stoned
and chopped
coriander a bunch, chopped
DRESSING
limes 3, zested and juiced
ginger a thumb-sized
piece, grated
garlic Ω small clove, crushed
dried red chilli flakes 1 tsp
• Heat the grill to high. Brush the
sweetcorn with 1 tbsp of olive oil
and season well. Put on a baking
tray and grill for 10-15 minutes,
turning regularly until the corn is
well charred. Remove the kernels by
standing the cob on its end and
carefully cutting down each side.
• Slice the sea bream into
2cm strips and put in a bowl.
Whisk together all of the
dressing ingredients with
3 tbsp of olive oil and
some seasoning and pour
over the fish. Leave to marinate for
2 minutes.
• Arrange the fish on a platter, scatter over
the charred sweetcorn, spring onions, red
chilli and avocado. Spoon over the dressing
and scatter with coriander.
PER SERVING 575 KCALS | FAT 37.6G
SATURATES 5G | CARBS 13.2G | SUGARS 4.2G
FIBRE 9.3G | PROTEIN 41.2G | SALT 0.7G
22 Omagazine.com August 2017
a�o��
Grilled paprika langoustines
with roast garlic aïoli
50 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | GF
You won’t need all of the aïoli – keep the rest
in the fridge.
raw langoustines 8 (around 500g)
olive oil
smoked paprika 1 tbsp
cayenne pepper 1 tsp
lemon 1, wedged to serve
dressed rocket to serve
crusty bread to serve
AÏOLI
garlic cloves 3, skin on
egg yolk 1
sunflower oil 125ml
lemon juice a squeeze
• To make the aïoli, heat the oven to 200C/fan
180C/gas 6. Put the garlic cloves on a piece of
foil, drizzle with 1 tbsp of olive oil and season.
Make a parcel of the foil and roast in the oven for
30 minutes until the garlic is really soft. Cool.
• Bring a pan of water to the boil and blanch the
langoustines for 1-2 minutes. Once cool, put
each langoustine belly-side down on a chopping
board and carefully cut in half lengthways.
• Squeeze the garlic cloves out of their skins and
add to a food processor with the egg yolk and
a pinch of salt. Whizz briefly, then slowly drizzle
in the sunflower oil, starting very slowly at first.
Season with pepper and lemon juice.
• Heat the grill to high. Add the langoustines
to a large bowl and drizzle with 3 tbsp of olive oil,
scatter over the paprika and cayenne, add
a large pinch of salt and toss really well. Put the
langoustines on a large baking sheet, cut-side
up, and grill for 4-5 minutes until charred.
• Pile onto a platter with the lemon wedges and
aïoli on the side. Serve with rocket and bread.
PER SERVING 572 KCALS | FAT 51G
SATURATES 6.8G | CARBS 0.9G | SUGARS 0.5G
FIBRE 1.7G | PROTEIN 26.4G | SALT 0.6G

Melon gazpacho
30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | LC GF
cantaloupe melon 300g ripe, chopped
cherry tomatoes a handful, chopped
garlic Ω clove, crushed
sherry vinegar 2 tbsp
extra-virgin olive oil
Tabasco a few splashes
parma ham 4 slices
radishes a handful, finely sliced
cucumber º, seeded and finely diced
spring onions 2, thinly sliced
• Put the melon, tomatoes and garlic
in a food processor and blend until really
smooth. Stir through the sherry vinegar,
2 tbsp of extra-virgin olive oil, Tabasco and
season with a little salt and black pepper.
Cover and chill in the fridge.
• Add the parma ham to a cold frying
pan and cook over a medium heat for
3-4 minutes, turning half way, until crisp.
COOK
• Spoon the gazpacho into bowls and top
with the radishes, cucumber, spring onions,
crispy parma ham, a drizzle more olive oil and
a few ice cubes.
PER SERVING 249 KCALS | FAT 16.1G
SATURATES 3.2G | CARBS 14G | SUGARS 13.3G
FIBRE 2.5G | PROTEIN 11.7G | SALT 1.7G
August 2017 Omagazine.com 23
 Smacked buffalo cucumbers
35 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | GF
‘Smacking’ cucumbers is a Chinese
technique allowing them to absorb more
flavour. Their cool crunch tempers the
hot buffalo sauce.
cucumbers 2
blue cheese 50g, crumbled
crème fraîche 3 tbsp
BUFFALO SAUCE
unsalted butter 50g
garlic 1 clove, chopped
Frank’s or other American hot sauce 75ml
24 Omagazine.com August 2017
Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp
cider vinegar 1 tbsp
• Put the cucumbers on a chopping board,
hit with a rolling pin or the flat of a cleaver
several times so that they break apart,
and then cut into bite-sized pieces. Put into
a colander and sprinkle with 1 tsp salt.
Leave for 30 minutes.
• To make the sauce, heat the butter in
a pan over a medium heat. When it begins
to foam, add the garlic and cook gently for
2-3 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients
and whisk well to combine. Cool.
• In a food processor add the blue cheese,
crème fraîche, a little seasoning and whizz.
Add enough cold water until it turns into
a drizzle-able sauce.
• Rinse the cucumbers well under cold
running water, drain and pat dry. To serve,
toss the cucumbers with the buffalo sauce
and pile onto a plate. Drizzle with the blue
cheese sauce.
PER SERVING 261 KCALS | FAT 21.9G
SATURATES 13.5G | CARBS 9.3G | SUGARS 8.1G
FIBRE 1.6G | PROTEIN 5.8G | SALT 2.1G
 COOK

Risotto verde
1 HOUR | SERVES 6 | EASY | LC

olive oil
onion Ω, finely diced
celery 1 stick, finely diced
risotto rice 400g
white wine 125ml
chicken stock 1 litre, hot
spinach 100g
broad beans 75g, blanched and podded
frozen peas 75g

o p n risotto
s
parmesan 50g, finely grated

so
crème fraîche 3 tbsp
lemon 1, zested and a squeeze of juice
micro cress to serve

• Heat 3 tbsp of oil in a frying pan

A

and add the onion and celery

with a little salt. Fry for
5 minutes until translucent.
Add the risotto rice and stir
well, ensuring every grain
is coated in oil. Pour in
the wine and let it
bubble until it’s almost
all evaporated. Add
the stock a ladleful
at a time, stirring
constantly, adding
more stock only
once the last ladleful
has been absorbed.
• In a food processor
add the spinach and
2 tbsp of hot water and
whizz to a purée. Once
the rice is almost cooked,
stir through the purée,
broad beans and peas.
Cook for a further 5 minutes,
stirring regularly.
• Once the rice and vegetables
are cooked, stir through the
parmesan, crème fraîche, lemon
zest and juice, season and top with
micro cress.

PER SERVING 432 KCALS | FAT 13.3G

SATURATES 5.5G | CARBS 55.9G | SUGARS 2.5G
FIBRE 3.1G | PROTEIN 16G | SALT 0.6G

August 2017 Omagazine.com 25

COOK

Summer roast lamb with

tomato and caper marinade
1 HOUR 10 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY | LC GF

The marinade goes on this while the lamb

is resting and mixes with the juices to make
a light, summery sauce.

boneless leg of lamb 1.5kg, butterflied

MARINADE
tomatoes 3, diced
shallots 2 large or 4 small,
finely chopped
small capers 1 tbsp, rinsed
parsley a small bunch, chopped
mint a small bunch, chopped
basil a small bunch, chopped
lemon 1, juiced
olive oil 2 tbsp

• Mix the marinade

ingredients, keeping aside
a small handful of each
of the herbs to finish.
Season the lamb well.
• To BBQ, heat the
coals and, when the
flames have died
down, spread them
to the sides of the
grill and put a drip
pan in the middle.
This will allow
the lamb to
cook without
flare-ups. BBQ
for 20 minutes on
each side. Or heat
the oven to 220C/
fan 200C/gas 7 and
put the lamb in a
baking dish skin-side
up. Cook for 30-40
minutes until a meat
thermometer reads
60C in the thickest
part (for pink meat).
• When the lamb is
cooked, put on a platter
and spoon over the
marinade. Cover loosely with
foil and rest for 20 minutes. Slice
and serve with the marinade, any
juices and the remaining chopped herbs.

PER SERVING 465 KCALS | FAT 28.4G

SATURATES 10.8G | CARBS 2.3G | SUGARS 1.8G
FIBRE 1.1G | PROTEIN 49.5G | SALT 0.3G

26 Omagazine.com August 2017

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Food and travel

writer Catherine Quinn

SWEET
LIKE
HONEY
Add flavour to your barbecue
with honey-glazed ideas from food writer
Catherine Quinn, inspired by Sunbites’ new
Honey Glazed Barbecue flavour

Make your own barbecue sauce
Homemade barbecue sauce is a different
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that can’t be beaten. It’s also easy to make
– combine 240ml organic ketchup with 125ml
apple cider vinegar, 175ml water and 85g each
of honey and brown sugar.
Add a little lemon juice, salt and pepper,
1
/2 tbsp onion powder, and 1 tbsp Worcestershire
sauce. Put on a medium heat until it boils, then
reduce to a simmer and cook uncovered,
stirring frequently, for about 45 minutes.
and a little vegetable oil in a bowl, and use it to
marinate some salmon fillets. Chill the salmon
for at least 2 hours and cook on a medium-hot
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Munch on multigrains
With the meat or fish sizzling away on the
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Experiment with new flavours

Bored of burgers and buns? Try looking east
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 Italyon a pla
Sugo scoglio
p32
te

Modern
Italian
cooking is
all about
showcasing
the best use
STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON. FOOD STYLING: SARAH COOK

of ingredients
with simple
seasonal dishes.
We asked five of our
favourite restaurants to
share their winning recipes
Photographs CHARLIE RICHARDS

August 2017 Omagazine.com 29

 Burrata, pea gazpacho
and vignarola salad
p32

30 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Fried courgette
flowers with honey
and vinegar
p32

August 2017 Omagazine.com 31

 Sugo Pasta Kitchen, Altrincham
“We are obsessed with making Italian food
exciting again. Drawing on our southern
Italian roots and our own creativity, we put
our heart and soul into every dish we serve
in the restaurant. Our sugo scoglio (mixed
seafood with cavatelli pasta) is a perfect
example of us taking a traditional southern
Italian staple and making it our own.”
Alex De Martiis, co-owner,
sugopastakitchen.co.uk
Sugo scoglio
45 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
dried cavatelli pasta 160g
extra-virgin olive oil 3 tbsp
garlic 3 cloves, crushed
ginger a thumb-sized piece, finely chopped
dried chilli flakes 1 tsp
raw, shell-on tiger prawns 8
baby plum tomatoes 100g, halved
dry white wine 150ml
mussels 16
baby squid 2, cut into rings
butter 10g
lemon Ω, juiced
flat-leaf parsley chopped to make 1 tbsp
FISH STOCK
fish bones 400g (see cook’s notes)
carrots 2, roughly chopped
celery 2 sticks, roughly chopped
onion 1, roughly chopped
fennel seeds 2 tsp
flat-leaf parsley stalks from a large bunch
red chillies 2
• To make the fish stock, add all of the
ingredients to a large pan with 1 litre of cold
water and bring to the boil. Turn the heat
down and gently simmer for 20 minutes.
Strain through a fine sieve.
• Bring a large pan of salted water to
the boil and cook the cavatelli following
packet instructions until it is al dente. Drain.
• Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over
a medium heat and fry the garlic and ginger
for 2 minutes. Add the chilli flakes and tiger
prawns and fry for another minute. Add the
tomatoes and season well. Add the white
wine, bubble until reduced by half, then add
1-2 ladlefuls of the fish stock (freeze the rest)
and the mussels and simmer for 2 minutes.
• Once the mussels have opened (discard
any that don’t open), add the squid to the
pan and cook for 1 minute.
• Add the cavatelli to the pan along
32 Omagazine.com August 2017
with the butter and stir well. Finish with
the lemon juice and scatter with chopped
parsley. Eat with a spoon.
PER SERVING 759 KCALS | FAT 29.1G | SATURATES 6.3G
CARBS 61.5G | SUGARS 4.5G | FIBRE 5.7G
PROTEIN 46.4G | SALT 1.6G
COOK’S NOTES
Sugo Pasta Kitchen uses halibut bones, but you can
also use sole, turbot, gurnard and cod. Just avoid
using any oily fish bones.
Eusebi Deli, Glasgow
“This dish is a tribute to my grandmother
– it’s for every market we visited and every
meal we shared at her house in Italy where
she celebrated the seasons as a farmer and
cook. Vignarola salad is a medley of summer
vegetables and leaves to be enjoyed on
these lighter, warmer days.” Giovanna
Eusebi, head chef, eusebideli.com
Burrata, pea gazpacho
and vignarola salad
25 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | V GF
burrata 2, at room temperature
GAZPACHO
fresh peas 100g
extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp
lemon Ω, zested
mint leaves 10
SALAD
lemon Ω, juiced
extra-virgin olive oil
sugar snap peas 30g, halved
fresh peas 30g
candy beetroot 1, sliced very thinly
pea shoots a small handful
mint leaves 6, torn
• To make the gazpacho, bring a pan of
lightly salted water to the boil and add the
peas. Blanch for 1-2 minutes and refresh in
iced water.
• Put the rest of the gazpacho ingredients,
including the drained peas, into a blender or
food processor with 2-3 tbsp of cold water
and whizz until really smooth. Chill.
• To make the salad, whisk together the
lemon juice with 2 tbsp of olive oil and some
seasoning. Add the remaining salad
ingredients and toss well.
• To serve, spoon the gazpacho onto
2 plates, add the burrata slightly off-centre
and then the salad to the other side.
PER SERVING 572 KCALS | FAT 45.2G | SATURATES 20.1G
CARBS 9.4G | SUGARS 3.2G | FIBRE 5.3G
PROTEIN 29.3G | SALT 1.2G
Palatino, London EC1
“I love courgette flowers and this recipe is
a simple seasonal version of our winter fried
sage leaves. As always with the cooking at
Palatino, we want everything to be elegant
but most of all delicious. This dish has its
roots in ancient Rome but remains very
popular with contemporary diners.”
Stevie Parle, head chef, palatino.london
Fried courgette flowers
with honey and vinegar
15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | V
plain flour 75g
sparkling water 250ml
chestnut or other runny honey 50ml
white wine vinegar 50ml
vegetable oil for frying
courgette flowers 6, stamens removed
• Put the flour in a bowl, season, and slowly
whisk in the sparkling water to make a
smooth batter. You should be able to see
your fingernail through the batter, when
dipped. In a separate bowl mix together
the honey and vinegar.
• Heat the vegetable oil in a pan no more
than 1/3 full until 180C or until a cube of
bread browns in 30 seconds.
• Add the courgette flowers to the batter,
toss to coat and gently shake off any excess
before carefully placing into the oil. Fry for
1-2 minutes until crisp, drain on kitchen
paper and season.
• Serve straightaway with the honey and
vinegar in a small bowl to dip the courgette
flowers into.
PER SERVING 267 KCALS | FAT 6.5G | SATURATES 0.6G
CARBS 47.4G | SUGARS 18.5G | FIBRE 1.5G
PROTEIN 3.9G | SALT 0.2G
 COOK

T-bone steak, wild

mushrooms and marsala
with deep-fried polenta
and gorgonzola fonduta
p34

August 2017 Omagazine.com 33

 Trullo, London N1
“Whether it’s for a date night, bromance or
girls’ night in, this is the ideal choice. There
are rules to this dish though: you must buy
well-aged, good-quality beef; if you drink
alcohol, for the love of god make sure you
get a decent barolo, chianti or montalcino
(or similar); and don’t use instant polenta that
cooks in three minutes – in fact, you should
never use it! It’s not the same product as the
proper stuff.” Tim Siadatan, head chef,
trullorestaurant.com
T-bone steak, wild
mushrooms and marsala
with deep-fried polenta
and gorgonzola fonduta
1 HOUR 30 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 4 | EASY
polenta 130g
t-bone steak 1 (around 900g)
vegetable oil for frying
gorgonzola dolce 4 tbsp
crème fraîche 1 tbsp
flat-leaf parsley a small bunch, chopped
mixed salad to serve
MUSHROOMS
olive oil
garlic 1 clove, finely chopped
wild mushrooms 100g mixed, cleaned
marsala 3 tbsp
chicken stock 200ml
unsalted butter 40g
• To make the polenta, bring 800ml of water
to the boil in a large pan with a good pinch
of salt and, once boiling, add the polenta
in a steady stream, whisking continually for
2 minutes. Reduce to a simmer and cook
for 30-40 minutes, stirring regularly. Pour
into a deep baking dish, approximately
16cm x 22cm, so that the polenta is 3cm
deep. Cool slightly, cover and chill for 2-3
hours. Tear the polenta into bite-sized pieces.
• Once the polenta has set, season the
steak really well with salt and leave for
20 minutes at room temperature. This will
draw moisture out of the meat, creating a
better crust to the steak when cooked.
• For the mushrooms, heat a frying pan over
a medium heat with 2 tbsp of olive oil and fry
the garlic for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms
and fry for 2 minutes. Add the marsala and
reduce for 1 minute, before adding the
chicken stock and butter. Reduce until
thickened and saucy. Keep warm.
34 Omagazine.com August 2017
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
Heat a griddle pan or barbecue to high. Pat
the steak dry and oil lightly. Cook the steak
for 3 minutes on each side, and on the fat
side for 3 minutes until golden. Transfer to
a roasting tray and cook in the oven for
12-15 minutes, for rare, 17-20 minutes for
medium. Remove from the oven, cover
lightly with foil and rest for 10 minutes.
-PSS H WHU UV TVYL [OHU M\SS VM ]LNL[HISL
oil and heat to 180C or until a cube of bread
browns in 30 seconds. Fry the polenta
pieces, in batches, for 4 minutes until crispy,
drain on kitchen paper and season well.
Keep warm in a low oven.
• In a small pan, warm the gorgonzola and
crème fraîche on a low heat until the cheese
is melted.
• To serve, slice the steak and serve with the
mushrooms, the gorgonzola fonduta and
fried polenta, with a sprinkling of chopped
parsley and the salad.
PER SERVING 760 KCALS | FAT 56.6G | SATURATES 21.8G
CARBS 7.6G | SUGARS 1.6G | FIBRE 1.6G
PROTEIN 51G | SALT 0.9G
Extracted from Trullo by Tim Siadatan,
Square Peg, £25. © Tim Siadatan 2017
Radici, London N1
“My inspiration for this dish came from
stigghiola, a street-food dish from Palermo.
It’s made with various kinds of offal, but
at Radici we use calf’s liver as it has a delicate
flavour that matches the pancetta, rosemary
and garlic perfectly. Wrapping the involtino in
pancetta gives it a lovely rich, salty flavour.
On the streets of Palermo, it is always cooked
on a BBQ, giving it a smoky flavour.”
Francesco Mazzei, chef patron, radici.uk
Calf’s liver involtino
with pancetta and rosemary
1 HOUR 20 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
potatoes 1kg
extra-virgin olive oil
calf’s liver 4 slices (around 150g each)
pancetta 16 slices
chicken stock 300ml
balsamic vinegar 11/2 tbsp
STUFFING
pancetta 120g sliced, finely chopped
rosemary 2 tsp of chopped leaves, plus
4 large sprigs
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped
• Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7.
Put the potatoes onto a baking tray and
bake in the oven for 1 hour, until really soft.
Once cool enough to handle, cut in half,
scoop out the flesh and mash. Mix with
4 tbsp of extra-virgin olive oil and season.
• For the stuffing, add the finely chopped
pancetta, chopped rosemary and garlic to
a frying pan and cook over a medium heat
until lightly crisp. Cool completely.
• Lay each slice of calf’s liver with a heaped
tbsp of the cooked pancetta filling and one
sprig of rosemary, then roll to create a
sausage shape. Lay out 4 rashers of
pancetta, so that they overlap, and then roll
the liver tightly in this.
• Add the chicken stock to a small saucepan
and reduce by 2/3. Add the balsamic vinegar
and keep warm.
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
Heat an ovenproof frying pan over a
medium-high heat with a little oil and fry
the involtini on all sides until golden and
crisp. Put in the oven for 7-8 minutes until
cooked through.
• Heat the olive oil mash and put in the
middle of a large plate. Sit the involtino
on top of the mash and drizzle with the
balsamic stock.
PER SERVING 674 KCALS | FAT 34.7G | SATURATES 10.1G
CARBS 40.4G | SUGARS 2.4G | FIBRE 5G
PROTEIN 47.6G | SALT 2.2G
 COOK

August 2017 Omagazine.com 35

 Do�c�!
Almond and
Amalfi lemon
cake p42

Our stunning show-off

desserts use classic flavours
of Italy as inspiration
Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE
Photographs ANT DUNCAN

36 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Black cherry
granita p42
STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON. FOOD STYLING: AMY STEPHENSON

August 2017 Omagazine.com 37

 Amaretti milk
ice cream p42

38 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Rich chocolate
and hazelnut
torte p43

August 2017 Omagazine.com 39

 Caffè latte
panna cotta with
espresso syrup
p43

40 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Prosecco-poached
peaches and
raspberries p43

August 2017 Omagazine.com 41

 Almond
and Amalfi
lemon cake
1 HOUR | 15 MINUTES | SERVES 9
A LITTLE EFFORT
butter 250g, softened, plus extra for the tin
caster sugar 250g
eggs 3
polenta 100g
ground almonds 250g
baking powder 1 tsp
Amalfi lemons 3, zested, 1 juiced
(see cook’s notes, right)
crème fraîche to serve
SYRUP
Amalfi lemon 1
caster sugar 3 tbsp
• Heat the oven to 160C/fan 140C/gas 3.
Butter and line the base of a 23cm springform
tin. Use electric beaters to whip the butter
and sugar until light and fluffy.
• Add the eggs one by one, beating between
each. Fold in the polenta, ground almonds
and baking powder, then stir in the lemon
zest and juice. Spoon into the tin and smooth
the surface.
• Bake for about 50 minutes-1 hour until
the cake is risen and golden (cover the top
loosely with foil after 30 minutes to stop it
browning too much). Cool in the tin.
• For the syrup, pare thin strips of peel from
the final lemon, trim any pith and cut the peel
into thin matchsticks (or use a zester).
• Juice the lemon and put in a small pan with
the sugar and 3 tbsp water. Heat gently until
the sugar dissolves, then simmer for a minute.
Add the sliced peel and leave to cool.
• Put the cake on a plate, drizzle over the
lemon syrup and zest, and leave to soak in.
Serve with crème fraîche, if you like.
PER SERVING 552 KCALS | FAT 39.9G | SATURATES 16.2G
CARBS 38.5G | SUGARS 35.8G | FIBRE 0.3G
PROTEIN 9.7G | SALT 0.7G
42 Omagazine.com August 2017
COOK’S NOTES
Amalfi lemons are larger and juicier than regular
lemons, and have a powerful fragrance. Use
extra-large lemons instead if you can’t find them.
Black cherry
granita
20 MINUTES + FREEZING
SERVES 4 | EASY | LC GF
black cherries 300g of very ripe, pitted
caster sugar 100g, plus extra to taste
cherry brandy 1-2 tbsp (optional)
• Put the cherries into a large pan with
300ml water and the sugar. Cook gently for
10-15 minutes until the cherries have
softened completely.
• Whizz in a food processor or blender, then
push through a sieve (taste and add a little
more sugar if needed). Stir in the cherry
brandy, if using. Pour into a large baking
dish and freeze for an hour.
• Use a fork to scrape the frozen edges
into the middle then freeze again. Repeat
2 or 3 times at hourly intervals until the
granita has set. Serve in small glasses.
PER SERVING 138 KCALS | FAT 0.1G | SATURATES 0G
CARBS 33.2G | SUGARS 33.2G | FIBRE 0.9G
PROTEIN 0.7G | SALT 0G
Amaretti milk
ice cream
20 MINUTES + SOAKING
+ CHURNING + FREEZING
SERVES 6 | A LITTLE EFFORT
amaretti biscuits 200g, roughly broken,
plus more to decorate
whole milk 700ml
double cream 250ml
egg yolks 6
golden caster sugar 100g
• Put the broken amaretti biscuits and
whole milk in a bowl, cover and put in the
fridge overnight.
• The next day, strain the milk through a fine
sieve into a measuring jug. You need 500ml.
Tip into a pan, add the cream and bring to
a simmer.
• Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together,
then gradually pour the hot milk and cream
over, whisking all the time.
• Pour back into a clean pan and heat until
the mix thickens and coats the back of a
wooden spoon. Strain through a sieve into
a clean bowl, cover the surface with clingfilm
and chill. Once cold, churn in an ice-cream
maker and freeze until needed. Serve scoops
with more amaretti biscuits.
PER SERVING 437 KCALS | FAT 32.9G | SATURATES 17.6G
CARBS 27.3G | SUGARS 26.7G | FIBRE 0.2G
PROTEIN 7.9G | SALT 0.1G
 COOK

Rich chocolate Caffè latte Prosecco-

and hazelnut panna cotta with poached peaches
torte espresso syrup and raspberries
30 MINUTES + CHILLING 25 MINUTES + CHILLING 40 MINUTES | SERVES 4
SERVES 12 | EASY MAKES 4 | EASY | GF EASY | GF

37% milk chocolate 200g
70% dark chocolate 200g
double cream 200ml
liquid glucose 2 tbsp (you can find this on
the baking aisle in large supermarkets)
Frangelico 4 tbsp
chopped toasted hazelnuts 75g
BASE
chocolate chip and hazelnut cookies
200g, roughly broken
butter 75g, melted
FRANGELICO CREAM
double cream 200ml
icing sugar 1 tbsp
Frangelico 2-3 tbsp
• Pulse the cookies to a rubble in a food
processor (or put in a plastic bag and
bash). Mix with the melted butter. Tip into
a 20cm springform cake tin and press down.
Chill for 30 minutes.
• Melt the milk and dark chocolate, cream
and glucose in short blasts in the microwave,
or in a glass bowl set over, but not touching,
a pot of simmering water. Stir in the
Frangelico and leave to cool.
• Pour on top of the base and level if needed.
Put in the fridge overnight to set.
• Release the torte and cover the top and
sides with the chopped hazelnuts, gently
pressing them in.
• Softly whip the cream, icing sugar and
Frangelico, and serve on the side of the
sliced torte.
gelatine 21/2 leaves
strong black coffee 100ml
whole milk 100ml
double cream 300ml
demerara sugar 80g
vanilla extract 1 tsp
ESPRESSO SYRUP
strong black coffee 100ml
caster sugar 100g
Kahlúa 1 tbsp
• Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water.
Mix the coffee, milk and cream in a bowl, then
pour about a quarter of the liquid into a pan
and put over a low heat. Tip in the sugar and
stir until it has dissolved, then remove from
the heat. Squeeze out the gelatine sheets and
add them to the pan. Stir until the gelatine
has dissolved.
• Strain the warmed liquid through a sieve
into the remaining coffee, milk and cream mix.
Stir in the vanilla. Ladle it into 4 serving
glasses and put in the fridge. Chill for 4 hours
or overnight until set.
• To make the coffee syrup, simmer the coffee
and sugar until the sugar has dissolved and
the coffee has thickened. Stir in the Kahlúa
and cool. Just before serving, flood the top
of each glass with a little syrup.
PER SERVING 588 KCALS | FAT 41.2G | SATURATES 25.6G
CARBS 49.2G | SUGARS 49.1G | FIBRE 0G
PROTEIN 3.1G | SALT 0G
peaches 4, ripe but firm
prosecco 400ml
peach brandy or liqueur 2 tbsp
caster sugar 150g
raspberries 200g
vanilla ice cream to serve
• Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Drop
in the peaches and simmer for a couple of
minutes then drain and cool until you can
handle them. Peel off the skins, cut in half
and discard the stones.
• Put the prosecco, brandy and sugar in
a pan. Heat gently until the sugar dissolves,
then boil for 2 minutes. Turn the heat down
and add the peach halves. Poach for
3 minutes then turn off the heat and leave
to cool in the liquid. Add the raspberries
after 10 minutes.
• To serve, spoon the poached peaches
and raspberries into bowls. Add a scoop
of ice cream and spoon over some of the
poaching liquid.
PER SERVING 300 KCALS | FAT 0.2G | SATURATES 0.1G
CARBS 51.4G | SUGARS 51.4G | FIBRE 3.1G
PROTEIN 1.6G | SALT 0.2G

PER SERVING 563 KCALS | FAT 44.5G | SATURATES 24.5G

CARBS 29.8G | SUGARS 23.8G | FIBRE 3G
PROTEIN 5.2G | SALT 0.3G

August 2017 Omagazine.com 43

Ta�� � d�� Tart up shop-bought
hummus with one of
our clever toppings
Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE
Photograph ANT DUNCAN

Ha�i�s� a��
y�g�r� s�i��
Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/
gas 6. Pat dry 200g of drained
chickpeas with kitchen paper, then
toss with a little olive oil and sea salt.
Roast until crisp and golden. Put hummus
into a shallow dish, swirl through a tsp of
harissa and a tbsp of natural yogurt,
then sprinkle over the roasted chickpeas.

To�s�e�
p�n� n�t�
a�� l�m��
Heat a small dry
frying pan and gently

STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE FOOD. STYLING: KATY GREENWOOD

toast a handful of
pine nuts until
golden. Mix 2 tbsp
extra-virgin olive
oil with the zest
of a lemon and
a squeeze of juice.
Spoon the oil over
a bowl of hummus
and scatter with the
pine nuts and a little
chopped parsley.

44 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Ol�v�, f�t� a��

s�o�e� p�p�i��
Pit a handful of Nocellara olives
and cut into quarters. Scatter
over a dish of hummus then
add 50g of crumbled feta,
a drizzle of olive oil and a
pinch of smoked paprika.

Sp�c� l�m�
Cut 100g lamb loin fillet
into strips. Heat a little
olive oil in a pan then
add the lamb, Ω tsp
ground cumin, a good
pinch of dried chilli flakes
and some seasoning.
Brown the lamb for a couple
of minutes. Stir through
chopped coriander and
spoon on top of hummus.

August 2017 Omagazine.com 45

 TEST KITCHEN
SECRETS
“Salt-baking. What’s the point?”
... you may ask. Here’s why. When
baking in a salt crust, you are creating an
oven within an oven. Modern ovens are
designed to be a moisture-free environment,
so any steam released from cooking is
whipped away by a fan. This is because
caramelisation and moisture don’t get
on (with too much moisture you wouldn’t
achieve that golden skin on roast chicken).
When salt-baking, however, you are creating
a mini oven, between the fish and the salt
crust, that steams the fish. The salt absorbs
the oven heat and then evenly cooks the fish
but allows little steam to escape. This means
that the flesh will remain beautifully moist, as
the juices are locked in.
One of the things that worries people
about salt-baking is the scary amount of salt.
However, trout has lovely thick skin, which
it needs as protection from the cold British
water. It’s this skin that stops the fish from
being overly salty. As it cooks, the salt gently
penetrates the fish, leaving the flesh perfectly
seasoned. Adding spices and herbs to the
salt is also a great way of flavouring the fish.
I blitzed mine in a food processor with
toasted, crushed fennel seeds, lemon zest
and herb stalks until it was a vibrant green.
The salt crust cooks the fish faster than
normal, so it needs less time than you might
think. This also gives you time to rest the
fish, in its crust, for 10-15 minutes. Here
it will finish cooking and retain all of its
moisture. Resting means the juices can
re-distribute themselves after the shock
of the heat in the oven (just as it does
with steak or a roast joint of meat). Don’t
worry – it will still be piping hot when it
comes to serve.
A wee note when shopping for this recipe
– a 2kg trout can be pretty large, so if you
have a small oven, bear this in mind. You
don’t want to be beheading your fish just
to get it in the oven! If you’re having trouble
tracking down a large rainbow trout, sea
46 Omagazine.com August 2017
trout or salmon make great alternatives.
The salt you use is also important. If you
use good flaky sea salt, such as Maldon,
you’ll most likely have to re-mortgage your
house. Using cheap table salt will leave
a chemical taste to the flesh. Good, coarse
sea salt will do the job perfectly.
When you carry this green, salt-encrusted
parcel to the table, there will be ‘oohs’ and
‘ahhs’ from all. Especially after the big reveal,
when you gently chisel away at the crust to
reveal beautifully juicy, blushing pink flesh.
It’s a bit of a party piece.
Salt-baked rainbow trout
1 HOUR 30 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY | GF
rainbow trout or wild sea trout 2kg,
gutted and cleaned
crusty bread to serve (optional)
SALT CRUST
fennel seeds 2 tbsp, toasted and ground
parsley a small bunch
dill a small bunch
lemons 2, zested and sliced
coarse sea salt 2kg
egg whites 5
COURGETTE SALAD
extra-virgin olive oil
lemon 1-2, zested and juiced
garlic 1 small clove, crushed
red chilli 1, seeded and finely chopped
courgettes 3, cut into thin strips
mint a small bunch, leaves picked
and torn
basil a small bunch, leaves picked
and torn
• Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7.
• To make the salt crust, add the fennel
seeds, stalks from the parsley and dill,
and the lemon zest together with 350g of
the salt to a food processor and whizz to
Cover the trout, le
a purée. Pour the remaining salt into a
Cookery writer
Adam shows
you tips and
tricks from the
O kitchen
bowl, tip in the purée and mix. Add the egg
whites and mix again.
• Put 1/3 of the salt mix in a layer diagonally
on a large baking sheet (mimic the shape
of the fish). Lay the trout on top. Stuff the
parsley leaves, dill fronds and lemon slices
into the trout’s cavity. Season with ground
black pepper. Pour over the remaining salt
mix, leaving the tip of the tail and the head
exposed, patting it round the body of the fish
so it is totally encased. Roast in the oven for
30-35 minutes. Remove from the oven and
rest for 15 minutes.
• For the salad, whisk together 4 tbsp of
extra-virgin olive oil, the lemon zest and
juice, crushed garlic and chilli. Add the
courgettes, season with salt and black
pepper, and toss well. Leave to marinate
while the fish rests.
• Carefully break away the salt crust and
remove the skin of the fish. Stir the torn
herbs through the courgettes and serve with
portions of the cooked trout and crusty
bread, if you like, for mopping up the juices.
PER SERVING 435 KCALS | FAT 21.8G | SATURATES 4.5G
CARBS 2G | SUGARS 1.3G | FIBRE 1G
PROTEIN 57G | SALT 2.61G
PHOTOGRAPHS: VINNY WHITEMAN. STYLING: LUIS PERAL. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH
av
the head and tail exing only
posed
 COOK

remove the salt cr

ust and fish skin
to reveal the moist
flesh below

August 2017 Omagazine.com 47

 COOK
Midweek menu
falling flat? Let
Janine Ratcliffe,
O’s food

everyday director, lift your

appetite with
these quick and
easy ideas
Recipes
JANINE RATCLIFFE
Photographs
VINNY WHITEMAN

48 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Cod with tomato bean stew

25 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | LC

olive oil
shallots 4 small, halved and sliced
garlic 1 clove, sliced
cherry tomatoes 200g
baby capers 1 tbsp
chicken stock 100ml
cannellini beans 400g tin, rinsed and drained
cod loin 2 thick, skinless pieces
plain flour for dusting, seasoned
basil 1 tbsp of shredded

• Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a pan. Cook

the shallots for about 5-7 minutes until
really soft. Add the garlic and cook for a
couple of minutes, then stir in the tomatoes
and baby capers. Add the stock and beans
and simmer for 5-7 minutes, until the
tomatoes start to burst.
• Meanwhile, dust the cod in seasoned flour.
Heat a non-stick frying pan with a little more
oil, then fry for 3 minutes on each side until
cooked through and golden.
• Stir the basil into the beans, season, then
serve in shallow bowls topped with the cod.

PER SERVING 376 KCALS | FAT 13.1G | SATURATES 2.1G

CARBS 25.7G | SUGARS 6.2G | FIBRE 4.8G
PROTEIN 36.3G | SALT 1.38G

Sweet soy-glazed pork chops ginger 1 tbsp of finely grated Mix the rest of the ingredients (except the
STYLING: LUIS PERAL. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH

25 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY |
pork chops 2, boneless, fat scored
and seasoned
soy sauce 4 tbsp
brown sugar 2 tbsp
sesame oil 2 tsp
dried chilli flakes a pinch
star anise 1
garlic 1 clove, crushed
LC pak choy 3-4 heads, halved and
steamed to serve
sesame seeds a pinch, to serve
• Heat a non-stick frying pan to hot. Use
tongs to hold each pork chop, fat-side
down, until it has started to render and
become crisp and golden.
• Once the fat is crisp, sear the chops for
3 minutes on each side until golden brown.
pak choy and sesame seeds) and pour into
the pan. Turn the heat down a little then
keep cooking and turning until the chops
are glazed and sticky.
• Serve on top of the steamed pak choy with
a sprinkle of sesame seeds.
PER SERVING 445 KCALS | FAT 22.1G | SATURATES 7.2G
CARBS 25.2G | SUGARS 24.1G | FIBRE 0.3G
PROTEIN 36.2G | SALT 4.38G

August 2017 Omagazine.com 49

 Linguine with prawn • Cook the linguine in boiling salted water. • Drain the pasta and tip into the prawn pan
butter sauce Meanwhile, heat the butter in a frying pan along with a splash of cooking water and
15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY and cook the garlic and shallot gently until lots of seasoning. Toss and serve in bowls.
the shallot is softened. Stir in the chilli and
linguine 200g plum tomatoes, and cook for 3-4 minutes, PER SERVING 626 KCALS | FAT 22.6G | SATURATES 13.4G
salted butter 50g then stir in the prawns and cook until pink. CARBS 72.3G | SUGARS 5.3G | FIBRE 5.6G
garlic 1 clove, crushed Stir in the parsley and lemon juice. PROTEIN 30.5G | SALT 1G
shallot 1, finely chopped
dried chilli flakes a pinch
plum tomatoes 2, finely diced
raw peeled prawns 200g, deveined
and butterflied
flat-leaf parsley a small bunch,
chopped
lemon 1, juiced

50 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Quick pickled courgette, ham

hock, pea and goat’s cheese salad
20 MINUTES + PICKLING TIME | SERVES 2 | EASY | LC

This makes more pickled courgette than you need

for the recipe, but they’ll keep in the fridge for a
couple of weeks.

lamb’s lettuce 60g bag

pickled courgettes (you’ll need half the recipe
amount below)
frozen peas 150g, blanched for 30 seconds
soft goat’s cheese 125g log, crumbled
shredded ham hock 90g pack
olive oil
dijon mustard Ω tsp
mint a bunch, picked
QUICK PICKLED COURGETTES
yellow mustard seeds 2 tsp
coriander seeds 2 tsp
dried chilli flakes a good pinch
caster sugar 3 tbsp
garlic 1 clove, halved
white wine vinegar 100ml
courgettes 300g, halved
lengthways then sliced on
the diagonal

• To make the quick pickled

courgettes, put the spices,
1 tbsp salt, sugar, garlic,
vinegar and 250ml water in
a small pan. Bring to a
simmer and stir until the
sugar dissolves, then cool
for 10 minutes.
• Put the courgette slices in
a jar and pour over the pickling
liquid. Leave for 30 minutes.
• Put the lamb’s lettuce on plates
or a large platter. Drain half the
courgettes and add along with the
peas, goat’s cheese and ham hock.
• Whisk 2 tbsp olive oil with the mustard
and 2 tbsp of the pickling liquid. Drizzle
over the salad, then add mint leaves to finish.

PER SERVING 450 KCALS | FAT 30.4G | SATURATES 13.4G

CARBS 12.9G | SUGARS 8.4G | FIBRE 6G
PROTEIN 28.2G | SALT 2.4G

August 2017 Omagazine.com 51


Smoked trout and
gruyère omelette
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | LC
butter
spring onions 2, sliced
eggs 4, beaten
hot-smoked trout 120g, broken into chunks
ready-made four-cheese sauce 4 tbsp
gruyère 15g, finely grated
chives 1 tbsp of chopped
rocket dressed to serve
• Heat the grill. Melt a knob of butter in a
medium, non-stick frying pan, add the spring
52 Omagazine.com August 2017
onions and cook for 3-4 minutes. Add
the eggs, leave to set a little, then draw
in the sides of the omelette so that any
uncooked egg spills over and sets around
the side.
• Cook until the top is almost set, then add
the trout. Spoon over the sauce and spread
around so that it covers the fish. Sprinkle
over the cheese and grill until lightly golden
and bubbling. Scatter over the chives and
serve with the rocket.
PER SERVING 303 KCALS | FAT 19.4G | SATURATES 7.7G
CARBS 2.6G | SUGARS 0.9G | FIBRE 0.9G
PROTEIN 29G | SALT 1.9G
Red rice and kale salad
with burrata and beets
35 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V | LC
camargue red and wild rice 200g
baby kale 100g
olive oil
sherry vinegar 2 tbsp
ras el hanout 1 tsp
cooked beets 180g (we used Waitrose chilli
beetroot from the chiller cabinet), diced small
dill 1 tbsp of chopped, plus extra to serve
spring onions 3, chopped
burrata or mozzarella 2 small, torn in half
• Cook the rice in boiling salted water until
tender. Put the kale in a colander, pour the
rice and water over it and leave to drain.
The heat will blanch the kale.
• Whisk 3 tbsp oil, the sherry vinegar and
ras el hanout in a large bowl and season
really well. Take out 1 tbsp of the dressing
and mix with the beets and dill. Stir the
spring onions into the rest of the dressing
in the large bowl, then tip in the drained rice
and kale, and toss everything together.
Divide between plates and scatter over
the beetroot.
• Divide the burrata and add to each plate.
Sprinkle with extra dill to finish.
PER SERVING 482 KCALS | FAT 22.1G | SATURATES 10G
CARBS 47.8G | SUGARS 7.5G | FIBRE 4.5G
PROTEIN 20.6G | SALT 0.9G
 COOK

August 2017 Omagazine.com 53

COOK
Summer chicken filo pies
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | LC
spring onions 1 bunch, chopped,
including green bits
butter
button mushrooms 200g, sliced
skinless chicken thighs 6 (about 500g),
cut into large pieces
plain flour 1Ω tbsp
chicken stock 300ml
crème fraîche 100ml
dijon mustard 1 tsp
flat-leaf parsley a handful, chopped
dill a handful, chopped
chives a handful, chopped
filo pastry 4 sheets, halved
54 Omagazine.com August 2017
• Cook the spring onions with a knob of • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5.
butter until softened. Add the mushrooms Brush the filo with melted butter then scrunch
and cook until browned a little and their up on top of the pies. Bake for 15-20 minutes,
liquid has been reabsorbed. Add the chicken or until the filo is crisp and golden.
and cook for 10 minutes, then sprinkle over
the flour and cook, stirring, for a couple PER SERVING 436 KCALS | FAT 17.5G | SATURATES 9.4G
more minutes. CARBS 32.8G | SUGARS 2.7G | FIBRE 3.1G
• Stir in the stock gradually and simmer for PROTEIN 35.3G | SALT 1.1G
2 minutes, then stir in the crème fraîche,
mustard and herbs.
• Season, tip into 4 individual pie dishes
and cool a little.
 XXXXXXXXX

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 Sh�r�n�
� t �� , y � g �r�
Wa�� pi�k�e� s�l��
a�� c�

Be�t�o��
p�c�l�� e�g�

Cr�d�t�
p�a�t��

56 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

Café owner and Insta-sensation

Elly Pear creates a showstopping
sharing veggie lunch for friends
Recipes ELLY CURSHEN
Photographs MARTIN POOLE

Be�t�o��
t�a�z�k�
Pl��
d�i�k�n�
v�n�g��
Ku�� s�b��

Co�t�g� c�e�s�
w�t� z�’a�a�

Ro�s�e�
b�o�c�l�
a�� c�i�l� August 2017 Omagazine.com 57
 Crudité platter
5 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
GF
celery 2 sticks, cut into batons
radishes a handful, large ones halved
cucumber Ω, cut into batons
cherry tomatoes 100g, large ones halved
chicory 1 head, separated
carrot 1, peeled and cut into batons
broccoli Ω head, cut into florets
sugar snap peas a handful
red pepper 1, cut into batons
breadsticks or crackers to serve (optional)
• Assemble on a large platter and serve
with the dips below.
Cottage cheese
with za’atar
5 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
V GF
greek yogurt 150g
cottage cheese 200g
za’atar 1 tsp
• In a bowl, mix the greek yogurt and
cottage cheese with some seasoning.
Sprinkle the surface with za’atar.
Beetroot tzatziki
15 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
V GF
cumin seeds Ω tsp, toasted
beetroot 1 raw, peeled and grated
greek yogurt 150g
garlic clove Ω, crushed
dill finely chopped to make 1 tsp
extra-virgin olive oil
• In a bowl, mix together the cumin seeds,
beetroot, yogurt, garlic and dill, and season
with salt and black pepper. Drizzle with
1 tbsp olive oil to serve.
58 Omagazine.com August 2017
Kuku sabzi
50 MINUTES + COOLING
SERVES 6 | EASY | V GF
Kuku sabzi is a Persian-
style herb frittata. It’s
densely green, punctuated with little pops of
sharp barberries and lovely toasted walnuts.
eggs 6, beaten
greek yogurt 5 tbsp
walnuts 30g, roughly chopped and toasted
ground turmeric Ω tsp
sea salt 2 heaped tsp
flat-leaf parsley a small bunch,
roughly chopped
coriander a small bunch, roughly chopped
dill a small bunch, roughly chopped
chives a small bunch, finely chopped
dried barberries 20g (see cook’s notes)
spring onions 2, finely sliced
rocket 30g, roughly chopped
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
Line a 20cm loose-bottomed cake tin with
baking paper.
• In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs
and yogurt, and season well with salt and
black pepper. Add the remaining ingredients
and mix well. Pour into the cake tin and
bake for 30 minutes.
• Allow to cool slightly before slicing.
COOK’S NOTES
Dried barberries are available from Middle Eastern
grocers, or you can substitute 20g of finely chopped
dried cranberries plus a grating of lemon zest.
Roasted broccoli
and chilli
30 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
GF
broccoli 2 heads, cut into florets and
stalks cut into Ω cm discs
olive oil
red chilli Ω, finely sliced
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
In a bowl, add the broccoli with 1 tbsp of
olive oil, season generously and mix well.
• Tip onto a large baking tray, so that it’s all
in one layer, and roast for 20 minutes until
lightly charred. Tip into a serving bowl and
scatter with finely sliced red chilli.
Beetroot pickled
eggs
20 MINUTES + MARINATING
SERVES 6 | EASY | V GF
You can make pickled
eggs from scratch or you can cheat and do
it like this. We use pickled beetroot at my
café and get through loads of it, so there’s
always plenty of beetrooty brine that would
otherwise get wasted. Use good-quality
eggs with really golden yolks to get the best
contrast with the pink.
pickled beetroots 1 very large jar
eggs 6
• Once you’ve eaten the beets from the
jar, keep the liquid in the jar in the fridge.
• In a saucepan of boiling water over a
medium heat, add the eggs and simmer
for 10 minutes. Drain and refresh in ice-cold
water. Peel.
• Add the eggs to the beet liquid. Cover
and leave for 1-4 days. The longer you leave
them, the pinker they’ll be.
Plum drinking
vinegar
1 HOUR 15 MINUTES + CHILLING
MAKES 750ML | EASY
Think of this like grown-up
squash, balanced
between sharp and sweet. Mix with water
(still or sparkling) for a refreshing drink.
plums 500g, halved and stoned
caster sugar 500g
ginger 5cm piece, cut into 2mm slices
pink peppercorns 1 tsp
cider vinegar 200ml
• Put the plums, sugar, ginger and 300ml
of water in a large pan. Bring to the boil,
reduce the heat and simmer for 45 minutes.
Add the pink peppercorns and simmer for
another 15 minutes.
• Remove from the heat and allow to cool
completely. Add the vinegar, cover and leave
in a cool place for 24 hours. Strain through
a fine sieve and store in the fridge in a sealed
bottle. Serve diluted 1:4 with fizzy water
and ice.
 COOK

August 2017 Omagazine.com 59

COOK

Warm pitta, yogurt and chickpea salad

45 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY | V

pitta bread 3 large

olive oil
chickpeas 1 x 400g tin
ground cumin 1 tsp
greek yogurt 200g
tahini 1 tbsp
lemon Ω, juiced
garlic clove 1, crushed
GARNISH
pine nuts 2 tbsp, fried in a little olive oil until golden
feta 25g
mint a small bunch, leaves picked
radishes 3, finely sliced
smoked paprika a pinch
sumac a pinch
extra-virgin olive oil
Middle Eastern pickled turnips or beetroot a handful,
cut into bite-sized pieces
smoked salt optional

• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Put the pitta

bread onto a baking tray, drizzle with olive oil and bake
for 10 minutes.
• Put the chickpeas and their liquid (reserving 3 tbsp of
the latter) into a pan and put over a medium heat. Cook
for a minute to warm through and add the cumin and
2 tsp of olive oil. Reduce the heat to low.
• Put the yogurt in a large bowl, add the tahini, lemon
juice, garlic and the reserved 3 tbsp of chickpea liquid
and whisk well.
• Pour 2cm of boiling water into a saucepan and bring to
a simmer over a medium heat. Sit the bowl of yogurt over
the pan to gently heat. Whisk regularly for 5 minutes.
• Cut the pitta breads into 2-3cm squares and separate
the two layers. Keep a handful of the pitta squares for
garnishing and spread the remaining out on a platter or
serving bowl. Drizzle a couple of ladles of the warm
chickpea cooking broth over the bread until just soaked.
• Strain the chickpeas and pour them over the soaked
bread. Spoon the warmed yogurt mixture over the
chickpeas and gently fold the layers together. Heat a frying
pan over a medium heat with 1 tsp of olive oil, add the
remaining pitta bread and fry until really crisp.
• Sprinkle the pine nuts over the surface of the chickpeas
and yogurt, crumble over the feta, scatter the mint on top,
add the radish slices, the crispy bread, smoked paprika
and sumac, and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Scatter
over the pickled turnips or beetroot and season with
smoked salt, if using, and black pepper.
Recipes extracted
from Let’s Eat! by
Elly Curshen (£20, COOK’S NOTES
Harper Collins) Pickled beetroots and turnips are available from Middle Eastern
grocers, but if you can’t get to one then normal pickled beetroot
will substitute nicely.
60 Omagazine.com August 2017
 COOK

HEALTHY trends
Kathryn Bruton
shares her approach to
healthy living with six
salads that are packed
with flavour, high in
protein and low in salt
Recipes KATHRYN BRUTON
Photographs LAURA EDWARDS

high
protein

Wilted chard
and beef
p62

August 2017 Omagazine.com 61

 Wilted chard and beef
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | LC

If you can’t find rainbow chard, use pak

choy instead.

sesame oil 1 tsp

rainbow chard 600g, stalks cut into 2.5cm
pieces and leaves finely shredded
light soy sauce 5 tbsp
rice wine vinegar 1 tsp
olive oil
fillet steaks 2 (around 350g)
dried chilli flakes 1 tsp
mint large bunch, leaves picked
thai basil small bunch, leaves picked
lemon Ω, zested low
red chilli 1, finely sliced cal
black sesame seeds 1 tbsp

• Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat

with the sesame oil and 1 tbsp of water. Add
the chard, stir and cover with a lid. Cook for
5 minutes, stirring regularly until the stalks
are tender and the leaves have wilted. Add
the soy sauce and rice wine vinegar and
cook for another 2-3 minutes.
• Heat a griddle pan over a high heat. Rub
1 tsp of olive oil into the steaks, season and
sprinkle with the chilli flakes. Cook for
3 minutes each side, rest for 5 minutes
and slice thinly.
• To serve, put the warm chard on a plate
and top with the herbs and sliced steak.
Finish with the lemon zest, sliced red chilli
and sesame seeds.
PER SERVING 217 KCALS | FAT 10.1G | SATURATES 3.8G
CARBS 8.4G | SUGARS 4G | FIBRE 0.5G
PROTEIN 22.7G | SALT 3.5G
Grilled aubergine with red
butterhead and salsa verde
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY |
aubergines 3 large, sliced into 4 lengthways
olive oil
butterhead lettuce Ω
SALSA VERDE
garlic Ω clove, chopped
cornichons 2
capers 1 tbsp
anchovies 2
flat-leaf parsley small bunch
dill chopped to make 1 tbsp
tarragon chopped to make 1 tbsp
lemon Ω, zested and juiced
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp
dijon mustard 1 tbsp
• Heat a griddle pan over a high heat. Brush
the aubergine slices with oil and season
LC GF well. Cook the aubergines in batches for
4-5 minutes until really charred and softened.
Keep warm in a low oven while you griddle
the rest.
• To make the salsa verde blitz the garlic,
cornichons, capers and anchovies in a food
processor until roughly chopped. Add the
remaining ingredients with 3 tbsp of olive oil,
1-2 tbsp of water and some seasoning, and
pulse a few times to roughly chop the herbs.
• Put 3 or 4 butterhead leaves on each plate,
top with some chargrilled aubergine and
drizzle with the dressing.
PER SERVING 178 KCALS | FAT 11.2G | SATURATES 1.7G
CARBS 9.1G | SUGARS 8.1G | FIBRE 10.5G
PROTEIN 4.9G | SALT 0.8G

62 Omagazine.com August 2017


Roasted red pepper
and chicory with caper
berries and salami
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY |
romano peppers 3, seeded and quartered
lengthways
olive oil
thyme 4 sprigs
rosemary 2 sprigs, leaves picked
red chicory 2, leaves separated
salami 8 slices
caper berries 15
DRESSING
agave nectar 1 tsp
sherry vinegar 1 tbsp
flat-leaf parsley finely chopped to make
2 tbsp
LC GF
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
Put the peppers in a baking tray, drizzle with
1 tbsp of olive oil, scatter with the thyme and
rosemary, season and roast for 30 minutes.
COOK
• To make the dressing, stir the agave
nectar, sherry vinegar and parsley into the
roasting juices from the peppers. Add
the chicory to the roasted pepper and gently
mix. Transfer to plates, scatter with salami
and caper berries, and drizzle with dressing.
PER SERVING 250 KCALS | FAT 15.4G | SATURATES 4.2G
CARBS 16.6G | SUGARS 13.8G | FIBRE 7.2G
PROTEIN 7.4G | SALT 2.3G
gluten
free
August 2017 Omagazine.com 63

low
fat
Roasted red pepper and pearl
barley with barbecued prawns
1 HOUR 10 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 2
EASY | LC
large, raw tiger prawns 8, unpeeled
pearl barley 50g
vegetable stock cube 1
red peppers 2
flat-leaf parsley 50g, torn
tarragon 2 sprigs, leaves picked
dill chopped to make 2 tbsp
rocket 50g
lemon 1, wedged to serve
MARINADE
lime 1, Ω finely chopped, Ω juiced
garlic 2 cloves, chopped
smoked paprika 1 tbsp
dried chilli flakes Ω tsp
black pepper 1 tsp
olive oil
ROASTED RED PEPPER DRESSING
red pepper 1
red chilli Ω
basil chopped to make 2 tbsp
sherry vinegar 1 tbsp
• Mix all of the marinade ingredients in a
64 Omagazine.com August 2017
bowl with 1 tbsp of olive oil and 2 tbsp of
water. Add the prawns, toss well and chill.
• Add the pearl barley and stock cube to
a pan, cover with plenty of water and cook
following packet instructions. Drain and run
under cold water.
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180/gas 6.
Roast all 3 peppers for 45 minutes until
blackened, add the chilli, for the dressing,
to the baking tray after 30 minutes. Put in
a bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave for
10 minutes. Peel, discard the seeds and tear
2 of the peppers into strips. Add to a bowl
with the pearl barley, herbs and rocket.
• To make the dressing, add the remaining
roasted pepper and chilli to a food processor
along with the basil, sherry vinegar and any
oil from the roasted peppers. Blitz until
smooth, and season.
• Heat a barbecue or griddle pan over a high
heat. Cook the prawns for 7-8 minutes until
charred and cooked through.
• Stir the dressing through the salad, toss and
serve with the prawns and lemon wedges.
PER SERVING 308 KCALS | FAT 8.8G | SATURATES 12G
CARBS 32.8G | SUGARS 11.2G | FIBRE 10.4G
PROTEIN 19.2G | SALT 1.9G
Romanesco cauliflower,
apple and freekeh with
horseradish and dill
45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V LC
Cauliflower stalks are delicious, yet often
they end up being discarded. Here, they’re
used as part of the dressing.
freekeh 100g
romanesco cauliflower 1 low
(around 500g), halved, broken salt
into florets and stalk reserved
olive oil
Pink Lady apple 1, finely sliced
dill small bunch, leaves picked
DRESSING
cauliflower stalk 100g
yogurt 2 tbsp
dill chopped to make 1 tbsp
fresh horseradish, grated, or horseradish
sauce 1-2 tbsp
lemon Ω, juiced
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
Add the freekeh to a pan, season and cover
with water, bring to the boil and simmer for
20-25 minutes until tender. Drain and rinse.
• Toss the cauliflower florets with 1 tbsp
of oil and some seasoning, and roast on
a baking tray for 10-15 minutes, tossing
now and then. Cool to room temperature.
• Heat a griddle pan over a medium heat
and grill the cauliflower stalk until charred
all over. Put into a food processor with the
remaining dressing ingredients and 2 tbsp of
water, and whizz until it is the consistency of
single cream. Season.
• To serve, toss the freekeh, apple and cauli
with the dressing, and sprinkle with the dill.
PER SERVING 199 KCALS | FAT 4.8G | SATURATES 0.9G
CARBS 28.2G | SUGARS 8.7G | FIBRE 4.2G
PROTEIN 8.6G | SALT 0.1G
 COOK

low
fat

Spicy beetroot and pak choy

with ramen eggs and sriracha
1 HOUR 10 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 4
EASY | V LC

beetroot 4 medium, peeled and cut

into 8 wedges
olive oil
light soy sauce 2Ω tbsp
gochujang 1 tbsp
chilli oil 1 tsp (optional)
pak choy 3 heads, halved lengthways
sesame seeds Ω tbsp
sriracha 2 tbsp gochujang and chilli oil, if using. Coat the
RAMEN EGGS beetroot with this mix and cook for a further
eggs 4 medium 5-10 minutes, until caramelised.
sake 6 tbsp • Serve the beetroot with the pak choy,
light soy sauce 3 tbsp an egg cut in half, the sesame seeds and
mirin 3 tbsp sriracha to taste.

• Bring a large pan of water
to the boil and cook the eggs
for 6 minutes, then plunge
into iced water. Peel.
• In a bowl, mix the sake,
soy and mirin, and add the
eggs. Put a small plate or an
upturned lid on top so that the
eggs are fully submerged. Leave
to marinate for at least 3 hours but
preferably overnight.
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/
gas 6. Toss the beetroot with 1 tbsp of
olive oil and roast on a large baking tray for
50 minutes. Mix together the soy sauce,
PER SERVING 265 KCALS | FAT 9.4G | SATURATES 2.1G
CARBS 23.8G | SUGARS 18.8G | FIBRE 4.9G
PROTEIN 12.7G | SALT 4G
COOK’S NOTES
Raw pak choy gives a delicious crunch, but steam
it if you prefer.
Taken from Skinny Salads
by Kathryn Bruton (£14.99,
Kyle Books). Photographs
by Laura Edwards.

August 2017 Omagazine.com 65

FREEZER
pleasers Freeze and portion this pork pibil and give
your midweek meals some Mexican zing
Recipe ADAM BUSH Photograph ROB STREETER

Pork pibil and whizz to a paste. Add the orange and COOK’S NOTES
3 HOURS 30 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 8 lime juice and whizz again. Put the pork into Achiote paste is made from
EASY | LC 4 a bowl, pour over the marinade, tear in the the Mexican annatto seed,
bay leaves, mix well and chill for at least giving a nutty taste and
pork shoulder 1.6kg, boneless, skin 4 hours, but preferably overnight. a bright red colour. It
removed and cut into 3-inch cubes • Heat the oven to 170C/fan 150C/gas 3. is available online at
rice or tortillas to serve Tip the pork and marinade into a large mexgrocer.co.uk,
coriander a bunch, to serve casserole, cover with a double layer of foil souschef.co.uk and
MARINADE and a lid, and cook for 2 hours. Remove amazon.co.uk
cumin seeds 1 tbsp the lid and foil and cook for a further
allspice berries 1 tbsp hour or until the meat is falling apart and
black peppercorns 1 tsp the sauce has thickened.
onion 1, roughly chopped • Toss the chilli, sliced red onion and red
garlic 10 cloves wine vinegar with a little salt and leave
achiote paste 2 tbsp for 1 hour, tossing every now and again.
scotch bonnet 1-2, seeded and chopped Shred the pork into its sauce, and serve
oranges 4, juiced with rice or tortillas, pink onions
limes 3, juiced and sprigs of coriander.
bay leaves 4 • To freeze, allow the shredded
PINK ONIONS pork to cool completely, put
red chilli 1, finely sliced portions into freezer bags and
red onion 1, finely sliced freeze. Defrost overnight in
red wine vinegar 2 tbsp the fridge and reheat in a
pan with a splash of water
• Heat a frying pan over a medium heat until piping hot.
and add the cumin seeds, allspice and
peppercorns. Toast for 2-3 minutes until PER SERVING 279 KCALS
fragrant. Tip into a mortar and grind to FAT 9G | SATURATES 2.9G
a powder with a pestle. CARBS 5.7G | SUGARS 4.4G
• Put the onion, garlic, achiote paste, scotch FIBRE 1.3G | PROTEIN 43G
bonnet and 1 tsp sea salt into a food SALT 1G
processor, along with the toasted spices,

66 Omagazine.com August 2017

 STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH

August 2017 Omagazine.com

67
COOK
 3 WAYS WITH
roasted red peppers Turn everyday ingredients into something
special with these clever recipes
Recipes SARAH COOK Photographs ROB STREETER

1 Spaghetti with
ajvar, mozzarella
& smashed olives
15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | V

spaghetti 150g
whole roasted red peppers
3 from a jar
garlic Ω clove
thyme 2 sprigs, stripped
of leaves
extra-virgin olive oil
pine nuts 2 tbsp toasted,
plus extra to serve
flat-leaf parsley
a handful
kalamata olives 14
mozzarella or burrata
1 ball

• Cook the spaghetti in

a large pan of boiling salted
water until al dente.
• For the ajvar, put the roasted
peppers, garlic, thyme and
2 tbsp olive oil in a food processor
and whizz until puréed. Add the pine
nuts and parsley, and pulse a few
times until chunky. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH
• Squash the olives with the flat of a large
knife to pop out the stones, then cut the flesh
into quarters.
• Drain the pasta, tear in the mozzarella and
toss with the pepper ajvar. Divide between
two plates then scatter over the olives and
more pine nuts, if you like.

PER SERVING 689 KCALS | FAT 37.7G | SATURATES 11.4G

CARBS 60.5G | SUGARS 2.4G | FIBRE 4.5G
PROTEIN 24.6G | SALT 1.3G

68 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COOK

2 Tray-baked
chicken thighs
with romesco
50 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | LC

whole chicken thighs 4

whole new potatoes 225g, larger
ones halved
smoked paprika 2 tsp
olive oil
ciabatta 100g chunk
sherry vinegar 2 tbsp
honey 2 tsp
whole roasted red peppers
3, plus 1 tbsp of juice from the jar
flat-leaf parsley a handful

• Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/

gas 6. Season the chicken thighs
well and put into a medium roasting
tin with the potatoes, and roast for
15 minutes.
• Sprinkle over the paprika and
1 tbsp of olive oil and toss everything
together. Roast for 15 minutes more.
• Tear the bread into chunks, stir into
the potatoes and chicken, and give
a final 15 minutes in the oven until the
bread is golden and the chicken and
spuds are crisp and cooked through.
• Mix together the vinegar and honey
with 1 tbsp juice from the pepper jar.
Tear the peppers into bite-sized
chunks and roughly chop the parsley.
When the tray comes out of the oven,
add the dressing, peppers and
parsley to the tin, mix everything
together and serve.

PER SERVING 533 KCALS | FAT 21.6G

SATURATES 4.9G | CARBS 52.4G
SUGARS 9.6G | FIBRE 4.8G
PROTEIN 29.9G | SALT 1.3G

August 2017 Omagazine.com 69

 3 Sage, honey & roasted
red pepper cornbread
45 MINUTES | SERVES 6-8 | EASY |

salted butter 150g, melted, plus extra

V
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
Butter a 22cm skillet, ovenproof frying pan,
or 20cm square cake tin.
• Whisk the melted butter, honey, eggs and
buttermilk. In a large bowl, mix the polenta
into the pan or tin then carefully lift into the
oven. Bake in a hot pan for 20 minutes or
cold cake tins for 30-35 minutes, then use
a skewer poked into the centre to check it’s
cooked through.
to serve or cornmeal, flour, bicarb, baking powder, • Drizzle with honey, then allow to cool slightly
runny honey 50g, plus extra to serve chopped sage and parmesan with Ω tsp of before serving with a little grated parmesan
eggs 2 medium salt. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry over the top and butter on the side.
buttermilk 250ml and briefly mix. Add the diced peppers and
fine polenta or cornmeal 150g mix again until just combined – be careful PER SERVING 352 KCALS | FAT 19.5G | SATURATES 11.5G
plain flour 150g not to overmix. CARBS 34.6G | SUGARS 6.6G | FIBRE 1.3G
bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp • If using a skillet or pan to bake, warm PROTEIN 8.9G | SALT 1.6G
baking powder 1 tsp it on the hob until hot. Pour the batter
sage 1 tbsp, finely chopped
parmesan or vegetarian alternative 50g,
finely grated, plus a little extra to serve
whole roasted red peppers 2 from
a jar, diced

70 Omagazine.com August 2017

 O
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August 2017 Omagazine.com 71

 EAT
ugust
Freshly made pasta in Borough
Market (and beyond), spit-roasted
rare-breed hogs in Peterborough,
and cauliflower negronis inspired
by zero-waste chefs
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID COTSWORTH

3 Pimm’s alternatives | Unsung Italian wines | Gin and tonic granita

Pro vs Punter: Malibu Kitchen, London | Borderless cookery in Paris
August 2017 Omagazine.com 73
74 Omagazine.com August 2017
 EAT

Clean-eating
brigade look away
now. Pasta and
pizza are back,
and better than
ever before, now
that a new wave of
authentic, regional
Italian restaurants
have opened up
across the UK.

c�o�
Let O be your
carb guide
Words MARK TAYLOR

I
talian restaurants in the UK are enjoying a renaissance
as chefs and restaurateurs go back to their roots.
Using traditional recipes from regional Italy and the best
imported ingredients, as well as, of course, great British
produce, these Britalians are breaking the mould. Pasta
is officially cool again.
»

August 2017 Omagazine.com 75

THE BEST IN THE REGIONS
Be�f�s�
Located in St Anne’s Square in Belfast’s Cathedral
Quarter, Coppi takes its inspiration from all regions of Italy,
but when it comes to ingredients the kitchen looks to
producers in Northern Ireland. “We work closely with local
suppliers including award-winning farmer Peter Hannan
– two of our signature dishes are Peter’s Tuscan spiced
pork and fennel sausage cichetti and a steak florentine
of salt-aged beef,” says Coppi’s Tony O’Neill.
“The pasta we serve is freshly made daily in our
production kitchen and the duck ragu, porcini mushroom
ravioli and truffle has been on the menu from day one,
along with our cichetti of feta fritters with truffled honey.
I think there could be a riot if we tried to take them off
the menu.” coppi.co.uk

76 Omagazine.com August 2017

 EAT

CIN CIN
Br g t
With just 20 covers at a counter looking into
an open kitchen and bar in Brighton’s North
Laine, Cin Cin (‘cheers!’ in Italian) is an
intimate, casual dining experience and the
food is truly authentic. “I’m simply trying to
give customers the food I was lucky enough
to grow up with,” says owner David Toscano,
who started the business as a pop-up
serving food and drink from a converted
1970s Fiat campervan. Ba
“My grandparents migrated from Calabria Piattino opened earlier this year a short aubergine polpette (that are deep-fried with
in southern Italy to Australia in the 1950s,” walk from the city’s Roman Baths. pine nuts, sun-dried tomato and basil and
says David. “And the food we offer Specialising in the piattini small plates of served with pesto, coulis and chilli) and
is an updated homage to the flavour southern Italy, the restaurant combines guancia di maiale (slow-cooked pig’s cheek
combinations I enjoyed as a kid.” Sicilian- food, wine and live music in what Naples- in sangiovese wine and chestnuts, served
style dishes on offer include tagliatelle with born co-owner Dani Quaglietta calls with a caerphilly cheese croquette). “After
sardines, saffron and pickled sultanas, a “new social dining concept” for the city. years of experience in hospitality in the UK,
and handkerchief-shaped fazzoletti pasta Dani says he wanted to bring “real Italian we saw that people wanted to try more
served with grey mullet, sprouting broccoli cuisine” to his customers via piattini and small plates, rather than one large bowl
and stracciatella cheese. cincin.co.uk encourage people to share dishes such as of pasta,” says Dani. piattinobath.com

Al r n h
Specialising in southern Italian cuisine, Sugo opened in the
summer of 2015 and co-owner Michael De Martiis says part
of its success is the fact it’s about as far from a clichéd Italian
restaurant as you can find. “We were sick of Italian food
being misrepresented in the UK and with our half-English,
half-Italian upbringing and heritage, we were confident we
could open a restaurant we would personally love to visit.”
From its short menu, standout dishes include orecchiette
pasta with slow-cooked beef shin, pork shoulder and ’nduja
ragu and the “only to be eaten with a spoon” sharing dish
sugo scoglio comprising cavatelli pasta with king prawns,
baby squid, mussels, cherry tomatoes, chilli and ginger
(see page 32 for the recipe). Mike says: “We’re hugely
proud of our southern Italian roots and we’re not remotely
interested in appeasing the British palate. For us it’s far more
about us cooking what we love and our customers trust our
judgement.” sugopastakitchen.co.uk »
VESELA RUMENOVA
PHOTOGRAPHS:

August 2017 Omagazine.com 77

 Br�s�o�
It’s been open only a year but Pasta Loco has become so
well loved with locals that there’s a two-month waiting list for
weekend tables. The first venture for cousins Ben Harvey
and Dominic Borel, this compact restaurant is Bristol’s first
fresh pasta house and has quickly become the place to go
for signature dishes like linguine carbonara, which is twist on
the classic, if much maligned, recipe. With three days of
preparation involved and three styles of pork – crumbled
salsiccia, crispy pork belly and a pancetta-wrapped poached
egg – word soon got around about the dish via social media
and it’s been on the menu ever since. The pair have also
become well known for their negroni – it’s so good that
Dominic has to make a vat to keep up with demand.
pastaloco.co.uk

Le�d�
Nonna’s polpette and spaghetti; rabbit, pancetta, white
wine and potatoes; and almond and raspberry polenta
cake – these are just three reasons why locals flock to
Zucco, tucked away in one of the leafier suburbs of Leeds.
Run by brothers Rosario and Michael Leggiero, it’s a cool
and contemporary place with black and white floor tiles,
white subway wall tiles and a beaten tin ceiling. And if that
look sounds slightly familiar to fans of a certain well-known
chain, then it won’t come as too much of a surprise that
Michael was manager at Polpo’s short-lived restaurant at
Leeds Harvey Nichols. zucco.co.uk

EUSEBI DELI
Gl�s�o�
What started as an Italian grocer shop in Glasgow’s
East End back in 1975 has grown and expanded with a
restaurant/deli in the city’s West End showcasing regional,
seasonal dishes, such as burrata, pea gazpacho and
vignarola salad (see page 32 for the recipe). Eusebi goes
to great lengths to source the very best ingredients –
tomatoes and herbs from Calabria, flour from Rome, cured
meats from Umbria. The pasta is made from scratch daily
in the restaurant’s ‘pasta laboratory’ using different flours,
including chickpea, chestnut and grano arso (burnt grain).
“We wanted to take the customer out of their comfort
zone,” says Giovanna Eusebi. “Italy is more than carbonara
and spag bol. Our food is inspired by our Italian grandparents
who farmed from land to table. Our concept was to slow
things down and return to our heritage. Food made in
factories and sold under the guise of ‘artisan’ just won’t
wash anymore. People don’t want watered-down versions
of authentic, they want the real deal.” eusebideli.com

78 Omagazine.com August 2017

 EAT

Ma�c�e�t��
Known as Little Italy, the Ancoats area of Manchester has
a long food tradition stretching back to the Victorian era
when thousands of Italian immigrants settled there,
many of them starting their own ice-cream businesses.
Relocating to Ancoats from London, Jim Morgan and
girlfriend Kate Wilson opened Rudy’s in 2015, with the
simple idea of bringing high-quality Neapolitan pizza to

PICK OF THE PIZZAS

Manchester in a relaxed, casual space that was affordable
and accessible to all.
Named after the couple’s dog, Rudy’s now serves

Ne�c�s�l�
Self-taught chef Calvin Kitchin started out as a joiner
a dozen pizzas, from a sub-£5 marinara (tomato, garlic,
oregano, basil and extra-virgin olive oil) to the romagnola
(a margherita dressed with rocket, prosciutto crudo and
working for his dad’s building firm, but he is now officially parmesan). Says Jim: “What makes our pizzas stand out
recognised as one of the world’s leading makers of are two of the things that really stand out when you eat
Neapolitan pizzas. Calvin runs Cal’s Own pizzeria in pizza in Naples – size and cost. Ours are big (14in), just
Newcastle’s Jesmond district. He is the first British chef like in Naples, but most UK pizzerias seem to reduce what
to get accreditation from the Naples-based Associazione is the traditional size found in Naples, possibly as a cost-
Vera Pizza Napoletana (VPN), a designation given only cutting exercise. We’re also much cheaper in comparison
to pizzerias using certain Italian ingredients, approved to most pizzerias, even though we use the best
equipment and traditional pizza-making methods. ingredients we can lay our hands on.” rudyspizza.co.uk »
Cal’s pizzas feature fiordilatte (fresh cow’s milk
mozzarella) and San Marzano DOP tomatoes grown in
the foothills of Mount Vesuvius. He says: “I started making
pizzas because I couldn’t get a good pizza locally. I’d been
to Sorrento as a kid and I remember having a Neapolitan
pizza and it was completely different. I researched it on
YouTube and discovered a film about Totonno’s, a pizzeria
in New York, and that was it. We now have American and
Italian customers who say our pizza is better than anything
they have in Brooklyn or Naples.” calsown.co.uk

PI SHOP
Br�s�o�
As an award-winning chef running three restaurants, Peter
Sanchez-Iglesias is used to hard graft, but even he admits
that opening a pizzeria has been his biggest challenge, albeit
a successful one. Sandwiched between his Michelin-starred
fine-dining restaurant Casamia, and the newly opened
Paco Tapas tapas bar named after his Spanish dad, Pi Shop
is a family-friendly pizzeria on Bristol’s harbourside.
As you might expect from a team with such a stellar
background, the sourdough pizzas are made with the same
care and attention, whether it’s the Hawaiian with pineapple
and Iberico ham or the pizza topped with Wye Valley
asparagus, taleggio, ewe’s curd and rocket. “People think it’s
easy to open a pizzeria but it isn’t and there have been times
I wondered why I did this,” says Peter. “But then I look out of
the kitchen and see families with kids having fun, watching
pizzas being made and I realise that’s exactly the reason we
opened Pi Shop in the first place.” thepishop.co.uk

August 2017 Omagazine.com 79

EAT
THE BEST OF BRITALIA IN LONDON
80 Omagazine.com August 2017
PADELLA
Lo�d�� SE1
Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda, the duo behind Trullo in
Highbury, opened their second restaurant, Padella, in Borough
Market in March 2016. Padella’s menu is made up of eight
pasta dishes taken from Trullo’s ‘greatest hits’, using fresh
pasta rolled in the window of the restaurant just before service.
A small, no-bookings restaurant where queues are a given,
Padella was born of a desire to make fresh handmade pasta
accessible to everybody, with prices ranging from £5.50 to
£11.50. The open kitchen combines traditional Italian
techniques and quality British produce to make dishes like
pappardelle and eight-hour beef shin
ragu, tagliarini with brown shrimps,
green and yellow courgette, and
its now famous pici cacio e
pepe (find the recipe at
Omagazine.com).
Jordan says: “We wanted to
create a restaurant that was
true to the principles we admired
in the great British restaurants
– rigorous seasonality with a focus
on using British producers wherever
possible. We make everything in-house
– rolling pasta, baking our bread,
churning our ice cream – every day, and do
it at a price that isn’t exclusive.” padella.co
WOLF
Lo�d�� N16
Opening a contemporary Italian restaurant was a natural
step for Wolf owner Antony Difrancesco, who was born
in London to Sicilian parents. Seasonal dishes include
fazzoletti with sheep ricotta, broad beans, peas, lemon
and mint, and breaded veal chop with brown butter
capers, anchovy and lemon. Antony says: “The great
thing about the renaissance of Italian food is that chefs
are applying new techniques and other influences to
make them their own.” wolf-restaurant.co.uk
EMILIA’S
Lo�d�� E1W
“Many people have said the view from our restaurant
resembles the coast of southern Italy,” says Andrew
Macleod, owner of Emilia’s in St Katharine Docks. After
developing the concept, Andrew joined forces with pasta
chef Simone Stagnitto to create the menus for this rustic
pasta bar. The pasta is made daily on site and the
concise menu features just seven pasta dishes. Recipes
include a northern Italian-style carbonara and four-hour
slow-cooked béchamel bolognese. emiliaspasta.com
RADICI
Lo�d�� N1
Hot new Islington restaurant Radici is the latest venture
from Italian chef Francesco Mazzei, who also oversees
Sartoria in Mayfair. More of a neighbourhood trattoria
than its Savile Row sibling, Radici’s menu incorporates
dishes such as seafood fettuccine and calf’s liver
involtino with pancetta, garlic and rosemary served
with smoked potato mash (see page 34 for the recipe).
“I would call Radici a ‘refreshed old-school Italian’,”
says Francesco. “We’re true to who we are.” radici.uk
LUCA
Lo�d�� EC1
“Someone said to me, you mean ‘Britalian, like the River
Café’ – I liked that,” smiles chef Isaac McHale when
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID COTSWORTH
asked to describe the high-end food at Luca, which
features such dishes as montgomery cheddar fonduta
and spaghettini with Morecambe Bay shrimp and mace
butter. “We are just happy doing our thing, making it
tasty and cooking with an Italian mindfulness of
simplicity,” says Isaac. Don’t leave without ordering the
light-as-air churro-like parmesan fries. luca.restaurant
 Chef’s table
Recipes D
AVID GINGELL P
hotographs DAVID COT
SWORTH

Chef David Gingell

shares recipes from
his hot new London
restaurant, Westerns Star dishes
Laundry – each dish
taking inspiration
from around the
Spic e d au b er g in e
continent
and to matoes
with yogurt

Gr�l�e�
m�c�e�e�
with Korean chilli

Baked
LOBSTER
fideo pasta

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August 2017 Omagazine.com 81
 J
eremie Cometto-Lingenheim and David Gingell’s jolly
hospitality is ever present in their new seafood-focussed
restaurant, Westerns Laundry – they are the same duo
behind acclaimed north London bistro, Primeur. Jeremie
greets you with a firm handshake and makes sure you’re
sitting comfortably with a herby house vermouth spritzer,
and Cornish David helps with menu choices from the
busy open kitchen.
The team works closely with fishermen from Devon and Cornwall,
along with Yorkshire meat farmers, to focus on British ingredients.
Choose from the seafood-heavy menu written on the blackboard,
daily. Crack into giant, super-fresh Scottish langoustines before
dipping into punchy Marie Rose sauce, try black cuttlefish
croquettes, then continue with chargrilled mackerel served with
fiery Korean chilli paste, umami miso and spring onions.
Veg dishes also shine. White beans with courgettes, basil and
ricotta, lifted with a fresh pesto, really impressed on our visit,
as did boozy rum baba drenched in rum with a light vanilla cream,
and another dessert of rhubarb and ginger sorbet.
If the food didn’t hint at it enough already, there’s definitely a
continental vibe in the décor of Westerns Laundry. Himalayan birch
trees mark the way to the glass front that completely opens out in the
summer. Diners huddle around communal tables under strip lighting, Spiced aubergine
and an exposed cellar showcases biodynamic wines from small-scale and tomatoes
international producers. with yogurt
Jeremie and David have managed to keep up their combo of warm
hospitality, inventive dishes and relationships with British producers
that is so loved at Primeur, to ensure that their new venture is just
as special. westernslaundry.com

Grilled mackerel
with Korean chilli

82 Omagazine.com August 2017

Spiced aubergine and
tomatoes with yogurt
1 HOUR 15 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | V • While the sauce is cooking, heat a BBQ
aubergines 2, quartered lengthways
olive oil 3 tbsp
red onions 2, finely sliced
garlic 2 cloves, sliced
red chilli 1, chopped
coriander seeds Ω tsp, toasted and
crushed
cumin seeds Ω tsp, toasted and
crushed
cayenne pepper a pinch
tomato purée 1 tbsp
chopped tomatoes 1 x 400g tin
sultanas 50g
red peppers 2, seeded and quartered
tomatoes 2 ripe
mint a handful, chopped
coriander a handful, chopped
natural yogurt to serve
• Put the aubergines in a colander over the
sink and sprinkle with 1 tsp of salt. Leave
for 20 minutes before rinsing under cold
running water. Pat dry with kitchen paper.
• Heat a frying pan over a medium heat
with the olive oil and fry the red onions for
15-20 minutes until soft and lightly golden.
Add the garlic and chilli, and cook for
another 5 minutes. Add the coriander
seeds, cumin seeds, cayenne pepper
and tomato purée and cook for 2 minutes,
then tip in the chopped tomatoes and
simmer for 30 minutes. Stir in the sultanas.
to high (see cook’s notes, below). Brush the
peppers, aubergines and tomatoes with
a little olive oil. Season and BBQ, turning
regularly, until really soft and charred all
over. The tomatoes will cook quicker, so
take them off when they are charred.
Roughly chop and add to the sauce.
• Stir through the herbs, season and serve
with yogurt.
PER SERVING 278 KCALS | FAT 14G
SATURATES 2.1G | CARBS 26.8G | SUGARS 24.9G
FIBRE 11.2G | PROTEIN 5.5G | SALT 0.2G
COOK’S NOTES
If you’re not barbecuing the veg, then brush
with the oil and cook in the oven at 200C/
fan 180C/gas 6 for 30-40 minutes until they’re
really soft.
Grilled mackerel with
Korean chilli
25 MINUTES | SERVES 2 AS A STARTER | EASY
sesame oil 3 tsp
gochujang 1 tsp
doenjang or miso 1 tbsp
garlic Ω small clove, crushed
white balsamic vinegar 3 tsp
spring onions 4, finely sliced
chilli powder a pinch
sesame seeds 2 tsp, toasted
mackerel 2, filleted and pin bones removed
• Heat the grill to high. Mix together 2 tsp
of the sesame oil, the gochujang, doenjang,
garlic, 1 tsp of the vinegar and 1 tbsp of
water in a small bowl.
• Add the spring onions to a bowl with the
chilli powder, sesame seeds, remaining
sesame oil and vinegar, and season.
• Lie the mackerel fillets skin-side up on a
lightly oiled tray. Brush with the chilli paste
mix and grill for 2-3 minutes until the skin
is bubbling and charred. Rest for 1 minute
before serving with the spring onions.
PER SERVING 572 KCALS | FAT 45.7G
SATURATES 9.6G | CARBS 4.8G | SUGARS 2.4G
FIBRE 1G | PROTEIN 34.8G | SALT 1.6G
COOK’S NOTES
Gochujang is a Korean hot pepper paste and
doenjang is a fermented soybean paste – find
both in tubs from souschef.co.uk and specialist
stores. White balsamic vinegar is available in
larger supermarkets.
August 2017 Omagazine.com 83
EAT

Baked lobster fideo pasta and boil the lobster for 7 minutes, then
1 HOUR 40 MINUTES + FREEZING + COOLING | SERVES 4 refresh in iced water. When cold, cut the
A LITTLE EFFORT lobster in half and remove the tail meat,
then crack the claws and remove the meat,
lobster 1 live, around 800g (see cook’s notes) reserving the shells. Cut the meat into
fideo pasta or angel hair pasta 260g, bite-sized pieces and chill.
broken into 3cm pieces • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5.
chives a few, snipped Put the shells onto a baking tray and roast
STOCK for 20 minutes. Tip into a bowl and break up
olive oil with a rolling pin. Add a splash of chicken
carrot 1, finely diced stock to the tray and scrape off any
celery 2 sticks, finely diced caramelised bits into the bowl.
onion 1, finely diced • Heat a pan over a medium heat with
fennel Ω bulb, finely diced 2 tbsp of olive oil and add the carrot, celery,
garlic Ω head onion, fennel and garlic with a pinch of salt.
thyme a few sprigs Fry for 10-15 minutes until soft. Stir through
bay leaves 2 the herbs, spices and tomato purée, and
star anise Ω cook for a few more minutes. Pour in the
coriander seeds 5, crushed brandy and Pernod, and reduce for a
Add a little more stock if it looks dry.
Serve with a squeeze of lemon juice,
chopped chives and the aïoli.
PER SERVING 807 KCALS | FAT 47.2G
SATURATES 7.1G | CARBS 54.7G | SUGARS 6.7G
FIBRE 7.7G | PROTEIN 31.4G | SALT 1.1G
COOK’S NOTES
If you prefer, fishmongers will cook lobster to
order for you. Fideo pasta is short, thin noodles
used in Catalan cooking and is available from
souschef.co.uk, but angel hair pasta broken into
3cm pieces is a great substitute.
Gin and tonic granita
10 MINUTES + FREEZING | SERVES 4 | EASY | LC

saffron a small pinch minute. Add the lobster shells and juice,
tomato purée 1 tbsp the chicken stock and tomatoes. Simmer
brandy 2 tbsp for 45 minutes. Take off the heat, cool and
Pernod 2 tsp pass through a fine sieve.
chicken stock 700ml • To make the aïoli, add the egg yolk, saffron,
tomatoes 2 ripe, chopped a squeeze of lemon juice, the garlic and some
AÏOLI seasoning to a small food processor. Slowly
egg yolk 1 drizzle in the olive oil until emulsified. Chill.
saffron a pinch • Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
lemon juice a squeeze Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a deep, oven-proof
garlic Ω clove, crushed frying pan over a medium heat. Add the
light olive oil 150ml fideo pasta and coat well in the oil. Add
450ml of the lobster stock and simmer for
• Put the lobster in the freezer for 2 hours. 4-5 minutes. Stir through the lobster pieces
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil then cook in the oven for 10-12 minutes.
tonic water 250ml
gin 75ml
limes 2, 1 zested, both juiced
• Mix all of the ingredients with 50ml of
water. Pour into a metal tray and freeze
overnight. Remove from the freezer and
scrape with a fork until you have a roughed-
up texture. Put back in the freezer for an
hour then repeat. Serve in small bowls.
PER SERVING 65 KCALS | FAT 0G
SATURATES 0G | CARBS 3.7G | SUGARS 3.7G
FIBRE 0G | PROTEIN 0G | SALT 0G

84 Omagazine.com August 2017

 COMING NEXT
MONTH
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PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. STYLIST: TONY HUTCHINSON. FOOD STYLIST: SARAH COOK

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Vietnamese new
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August 2017 Omagazine.com 85
 pro vs punter
Malibu Kitchen, London
Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about restaurants as a food pro,
who may get special treatment if recognised?* Laura Rowe and O reader
Steven Walker compare notes on Malibu Kitchen at The Ned, London
The pro
Our editor Laura Rowe has
reviewed restaurants for more
than a decade. You can follow
her on Twitter and Instagram
at @lauraroweeats.
The punter
Steven Walker works in
banking and loves Italian
food. His best eating out
experience was the chops
at Blacklock, and he has
a weakness for salt and
vinegar Squares.
86 Omagazine.com August 2017
Malibu Kitchen
Nine restaurants, more than 200 bedrooms, a
rooftop pool, private members’ club and grooming
parlours… The Ned, set in the former Midland
Bank building, is quite the spectacle. It was
originally designed by Sir Edward ‘Ned’ Lutyens
in 1924, and the restaurants sit in the historical
3,000-square-metre former banking hall, separated
from each other by verdite columns and Grade I-
listed walnut banking counters.
Malibu Kitchen is all about Californian cuisine,
with a menu that includes superfood salads,
cold-pressed organic juices and ‘wellness’ shots,
raw and cured appetisers (including ahi tuna poke,
octopus ceviche, and cured ham with bee pollen),
and numerous vegetarian options. Try the matcha
panna cotta for dessert, served with passion fruit
sorbet and meringue, or a fruit ’n’ veg cocktail
– The Fiery Lion blends Grey Goose with turmeric,
ginger, apple, agave and lime. thened.com

Our pro says…
The welcome at The Ned is hardly warm – after
getting past a round of bouncers, some fashionable
young things, busy on their phones, stopped to ask
if we were members or had a reservation before
we were granted access. *I was not recognised.
Malibu Kitchen is tucked in the right-hand
corner of this sprawling building, heaving with
‘suits’ and ‘blow-dries’, so don’t expect a view of
the central music stage. In fact, you can barely
hear the live jazz above the roars and ra-ras.
Arriving early (how very uncool) our table wasn’t
ready, and with no room at the inn/bar to perch
in here, we were told to seek refuge in one of the
other restaurants. We prop up the marble bar at
Cecconi’s next door, where the service picks up
as I’m offered a negroni list. It’s not the best I’ve
had, but it’s served with a smile.
When we sit down, we’re reminded (now for
the third time) about our need to leave within
90 minutes (food is served until 11pm). Padrón
peppers with an almond purée lack that essential
ingredient, salt. A starter of asparagus is better,
with a red onion relish, cherries and some
on-trend yet bland yellow petals – but a cynicist
might imagine this was put together for Instagram
more than flavour.
Sea bream tacos are overcooked and served with
limp coriander stalks and lacklustre pico de gallo.
Brick chicken is better – a coating of turmeric
gives it colour (although no flavour), it’s juicy and
a spiced mayo lifts it – but overgrown flat-leaf
parsley that’s tough, with some grapes and cherry
tomatoes does not a salad make.
The only dish possibly worth returning for is
a raw salad of ‘young’ coconut, green papaya,
shredded veg, heart of palm, and deliciously
aniseedy holy basil, dressed in an Asian-style sour
and salty dressing, served with a spiced nut paste.
Raw chocolate cake was silky but had an
overwhelming (and unpleasant) green and unripe
banana flavour, heavy with coconut oil, rather
than, you know, chocolate. At the other end of
the spectrum, a stack of cookies was dry.
THE BOTTOM LINE
The one saving grace of Malibu Kitchen is that
it’s surprisingly affordable. However, with an
exclusive atmosphere, menu that fails to deliver,
and difficulty to book, I’d give it a wide berth.
Total for two, excluding service: £98
(including wine)
FOOD: 4/10
TOTAL
SERVICE: 5/10
14/30
VIBE: 5/10
EAT
Our punter says…
We were welcomed by three separate groups of
greeters, providing a human sat nav to Malibu
Kitchen (one of many restaurants at The Ned).
Our waitress gave us a really informative run
through of the menu, readily taking us through the
cooking process of ‘brick’ chicken and providing
recommendations of customer favourites.
One minor point: she was not able to provide
any clear wine recommendations.
Although the menu looks rather small, there’s a
good variety of dishes, including a strong selection
of vegetarian and fish options. To start, we had the
padrón peppers and cured ham with melon. Being
a fan of padrón peppers, I was looking forward to a
plate of charred salty goodness. Unfortunately, the
Psst...
Want to review
salt was replaced with a rather bland almond aïoli, a restaurant? ’s next
which failed to add anything to the dish. The ance to be O
For a ch at
r reader panel
punter, join ou
cured ham and melon was superb, a simple plate ers.com
immediateinsid
of prosciutto and melon, supercharged with bee
pollen and chilli to give the dish an added kick.
On to the larger plates, we ordered the ahi
tuna poke, brick chicken, cauliflower steak and
courgette ribbons. The star of the show was the
brick chicken, recommended by a friendly couple
sat next to us (who stopped eating to watch our
reaction to the first bite). The chicken was juicy
and tender, with the crispy skin complemented
by a paprika-spiced mayo.
Cauliflower steak was thin and overpowered by
a mound of parsley and mint, which masked the
cajun spices of the steak. Courgette ribbons were
actually ‘courgetti’, and at £10 was the most
expensive side dish I’ve ever ordered.
THE BOTTOM LINE
A lot of care and attention has been put into
The Ned, which I’d liken to a super-sized
Brasserie Zédel. The main hall is very large,
which created a stale atmosphere – at times it felt
as if we were eating in an opulent food court. The
restaurant is located in a small corner of the hall,
which felt rather cramped and out of place. I’d
definitely visit again, but would opt for a different
restaurant.
Total for two, excluding service: £105.19
(including wine)
FOOD: 6/10 TOTAL
SERVICE: 7/10 18/30
VIBE: 5/10
August 2017 Omagazine.com 87
 en
Recomm de

d
Re�t�u��a��
p�c� Our latest restaurant recommendations – longer versions and more
at Omagazine.com – plus news from across the UK

d
R
ecommen de
THE TOWN HALL, LONDON E2
Ta�l�-h�p�i�� Few buildings in London can be as synchronised when it comes
to food and drink as the Town Hall Hotel. Peg + Patriot, the slick
and moody cocktail bar to the right, as you walk in, has a newly
revamped cocktail menu, aptly called Chef’s Note Book. Each
cocktail has been designed with a pioneering chef in mind.
Negroni fans should head straight to page 33 in the menu, where
eco chef Tom Hunt inspired bar manager Constança Cordeiro
to create Cauliflower, using waste cauli stalks, in a light, earthy
white negroni. Black Pudding, too, inspired by a snack of Tom
Sellers (at Restaurant Story) is a clever twist on a martini with a
spicy and savoury backbone; while Portuguese chef José Avillez
is to blame for the surprisingly good Foie Gras, whose foie gras
and dark chocolate distillate is fruity, nutty and savoury with a
seductively buttery mouthfeel. Seriously interesting stuff.
Across the hall and into the Typing Room, and chef Lee
Westcott continues to impress with his supremely well-balanced,
impressively sustainable and down-right delicious tasting menu.
The tone is set with crispy fish skin with dots of smoky salt cod
brandade, an oyster emulsion and tiny, brackish sea vegetables,
followed by pig’s ear and trotter croquettes with smoked apple
and edible flowers. Delicate, elegant and fashionably frugal.
Dinner proper packs a punch at every course. IPA sourdough
comes with the lightest whipped Marmite butter and popped
pearl barley, like grown-up, savoury Sugar Puffs. Dorset char
sung of the season with white asparagus, celeriac and a bathing
of wild garlic. Cod with onion, chicken crumbs and black garlic is
a perfect medley of textures and umami flavours, while a dessert
of satiny smooth sheep’s yogurt sorbet, with textures of apple
and dill, and a tangy meringue crisp is a suitably grown-up,
palate-cleansing end.
Bethnal Green is lucky to have such a hardworking and
harmonious pair. townhallhotel.com (Words by Laura Rowe)

CALYPSO KITCHEN, BRISTOL

The latest addition to Wapping Wharf’s Gaol Ferry Steps, Calypso Kitchen brings
Caribbean flavours to Bristol harbourside’s new foodie quarter.
Bristol’s Biblos restaurants are behind this stylish set-up. Known for their Middle
Eastern and Caribbean fusion food, the team has turned the dial towards the Caribbean
end of the spectrum here – think jerk belly pork, king prawn gumbo and goat curry.
Tall cement walls, exposed floorboards and corrugated iron act as the backdrop to
bright murals, handwritten blackboard menus and bursts of tropical greenery, while
floor-to-ceiling glass windows frame the views of the harbour beyond.
Deftly spiced, grilled peppered shrimp were served in their shell, on our visit, and were
so tender they were almost creamy. Arancini, of sorts, with black-eyed peas had gentle
coconut flavours and a fine, crisp breadcrumb shell. Jerk was spot-on and salted caramel
cheesecake boasted all the rich, malty satisfaction of a retro milkshake.
Cool yet comfortable surrounds, warm and charming staff, and a menu of Caribbean
classics, finessed: what’s not to like? calypsokitchen.uk (Words by Rosie Sharratt)

88 Omagazine.com August 2017

 EAT

NEO BISTRO, LONDON W1

Neo Bistro in Mayfair seems to tick all the boxes for a modish
bistronomy joint; bare brick walls, dangling Edison bulbs, and
plain wooden tables and chairs. The menu is concise and reflects
the aim of the owners – Alex Harper (Harwood Arms) and Mark
Jarvis (Anglo) – to create an ever-changing menu of creative,
seasonal dishes driven by prime British ingredients.
A starter of fresh cheese with smoked potatoes and walnut
underwhelmed, as did bland seaweed butter with a better-made
kumut sourdough, but a plate of Cornish crab with confit lemon
was a triumph of seasonal cooking thanks to the salty-sweet
crustacean marrying perfectly with an intense sweep of courgette
purée. Turbot with white artichoke, sea vegetables and fermented
fennel was beautifully delicate, and the star dish of the night was
luscious, tender Herdwick lamb with turnip and smoked eel.
Desserts were simple, our favourite a fudgy, velvety slab of
chocolate tart, well paired with a scoop of malt ice cream.
With its spare and elegant approach to food, Neo Bistro could
have run the risk of feeling a tad timid – happily this wasn’t the
case. Instead expect beautiful British ingredients at their best.
neobistro.co.uk (Words by Hannah Guinness)

DININGS SW3, LONDON

After 10 years of fine-tuning its contemporary Japanese offering, tiny Marylebone
restaurant Dinings has opened a new spot in a grade-II building in Knightsbridge.
Start with the impressive sashimi platter; a heavy stone box filled with ice, piled high
with tiny, perfectly constructed mouthfuls, such as mosaic salmon wrapped in crunchy
kohlrabi, sea bass carpaccio and hay-smoked toro (fatty tuna). The gentle smoky flavour
was achieved with a Josper grill, using charcoals that reach 480C, which also help to
create other robata-style dishes on the menu, such as tender chicken teriyaki skewers
and scallops with punchy and refreshing wasabi salsa. The nasu miso grilled aubergine,
slow-cooked in sweet miso, was so deeply caramelised and rich in umami that we
ordered a second for pre-dessert.
Finish with the trio of crème brûlées – buttery wasanbon sugar with kuromitsu
(molasses-like black honey), charcoal-roasted hoji tea topped with sweet nashi pear,
and black sesame with passion fruit caviar. dinings.co.uk (Words by Alex Crossley)

THE HENRIETTA HOTEL, LONDON WC2

From the Experimental Group (with bars including the Experimental Cocktail Club and
Joyeux Bordel), The Henrietta Hotel sees acclaimed chef Ollie Dabbous shaking off the
industrial décor of his eponymous, and now closed, Fitzrovia restaurant. Split over
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALWA DESIGN STUDIO, JOAKIM BLOCKSTROM

the ground and first floor mezzanine, the restaurant is light, airy and relaxed, with plush,
racing green velvet seating, oak flooring, terracotta tiles, copper detailing and a glass roof.
Creamy burrata served with sharp-but-sweet wild strawberries, fennel pollen and
bittersweet tarragon impressed as a starter, while the must-order main was barbecued quail;
the bird skewered with a liquorice branch for its final flash on the grill, lending a beautifully
rounded sweetness to partner with the char of the meat, earthy fenugreek and nutty bed of
toasted wheat and almond.
Desserts are simple – green apple sorbet, soft-serve cherry blossom ice cream – but
the wait for buttery, freshly baked madeleines with Chantilly cream is more than worth it.
Elegant and refined but accessible, we wouldn’t be surprised if Henrietta quickly draws
the crowds you’d expect from a restaurant with Ollie Dabbous at the helm.
henriettahotel.com (Words by Sarah Kingsbury)

August 2017 Omagazine.com 89

EAT
RESTAURANT HYWEL JONES BY LUCKNAM
PARK, WILTSHIRE
Executive chef Hywel Jones has relaunched his
fine-dining offering with the newly named and
newly focussed Restaurant Hywel Jones by
Lucknam Park. It’s not just the restaurant
presentation – lovely wonky-edged artisan crockery
and hand-cut flowers, and a more friendly vibe
from the staff – that marks a more contemporary
direction but Lucknam, as a whole, seems to have
dialled down the formality a notch, in a good way.
Doors are thrown open to the terrace in the drawing
room, pretty posies intersperse the plush surrounds,
and smart denim is no longer on the banned list
when it comes to dress code. (Ripped denim still
is though, so don’t get any funny ideas…)
There’s a nod to Hywel’s roots with laverbread
focaccia, which comes in a chunky silver bread
bath, accompanied by super-creamy Welsh butter.
A tiny yet delicious amuse-bouche of poached
quail egg, with delicately pickled veg and a pea
emulsion is served before a dish of dressed Cornish
white crab, with Exmoor caviar and violet
artichoke. The crab comes perched on top of
sesame tuiles for textural contrast, while dots
of lemon gel add a wonderful acidity.
Each dish is vibrant, clean and meticulously
practiced. The only marginal miss was a plate of
Brecon lamb, which wasn’t as pink as the waiter
suggested it might be. Line-caught seabass, though
– melting beneath its crisp skin – served with an
intense shellfish emulsion, cooked Little Gem,
slivers of cauliflower and a moreish brown shrimp
butter, won the night.
lucknampark.co.uk (Words by Kate Authers)
HOUSE OF FEASTS, PETERBOROUGH
Bright, whitewashed walls with tables framed by large bay
windows, a subtle forest cabin theme, and a new large outdoor
canopy with a barbecue kitchen outhouse and a five-foot roasting
spit, are the scene for Polish ex-Noma chef Damian Wawrzyniak’s
daily-changing menu.
Half a rare-breed Dingley Dell hog, bred in Suffolk, was
roasting away in the garden on our visit. Brined for 72 hours and
slow-roasted for eight, it was sliced and served on pearl barley
cooked slowly in pork fat. Damian and his team butcher whole
animals on site, make pickles, as well as breads, pierogi,
dumplings and lamb-stuffed ushka, which accompanies a tart
and cleansing beetroot soup with goat’s cheese crostini.
There wasn’t much provision for vegetarians on our visit, but the
staff and chefs are very accommodating to various requests. House
of Feasts is all about the love of good food and a welcome addition
to Peterborough. houseoffeasts.co.uk (Words by Liz O’Keefe)
90 Omagazine.com August 2017
STREET FOOD SPOT
Babek Brothers, Elliot and Sam, rustle up
gourmet kebabs with tongue-in-cheek
names (Nigel Fromage, anyone?!) using
charred meats from their parents’ farm
in the South West and freshly made
Indian-style bread. The brothers are taking
their kebabs to Peckham this summer with
a pop-up on Bussey Building rooftop.
Try Kim Koftashian’s lamb kofta with garlic
yogurt and smoky relish, or classic Indian
Tikka Turner filled with spicy tikka chicken
breast, mint yogurt and coriander.
There’s also an umami vegetarian option
combining Cypriot halloumi with garlic
yogurt and sticky fig jam. The London
Beer Factory will be rolling out kegs of
craft beer and whipping up summery
cocktails to go alongside. Now until
26 August. babekbrothers.com
GIN FANS, UNITE!
London’s number-one immersive dining
experience, Gingerline, has teamed up
with Sipsmith to create a series of
mysterious, gin-fuelled evenings in secret
locations. Part of the magic of Gingerline is
that they don’t give away too many details,
but the evening at Juniper Manor promises
to include immersive performances,
elaborate settings (look out for the swan
fountain) and a four-course dinner paired
with Sipsmith cocktails. From £18 for
bar entry, or from £52.50 for the full
experience. Seats are sold out until
September, but look out for newly released
dates soon. junipermanor.com
 We meet Simone Tondo, a cavalier
young Italian chef making waves
with his borderless cuisine in the
heart of Paris
Words HILARY ARMSTRONG

W
hen Sardinian chef Simone Tondo left
home at only 14 to pursue his culinary
calling in Alghero; when his father
spent a small fortune on the el Bulli
cookbook for his 15th birthday; when he
uprooted himself at 21 for yet another
new city – none of this was with a view
to a career spent slinging pizzas and rolling pasta. “I didn’t study so SIMONE’S FAVOURITE ITALIAN
hard to be just an Italian chef,” asserts Simone, whose restaurant ADDRESSES IN PARIS
Tondo opened in Paris last summer. “It was never my dream to just
cook pasta. I’m an international cook. I cook everything that’s good.” • Osteria Ferrara, 7 Rue du Dahomey
“Everything”, vis-à-vis the Tondo menu, means anything from Sardinian • Restaurant Passerini, 65 Rue Traversière
fregola to dashi, za’atar to clafoutis. It’s the very reason Simone’s in • Pizzeria Popolare, 111 Rue Réaumur
Paris. “My head chef [Cristiano Andreini], who used to work with • Sardegna a Tavola, 1 Rue de Cotte
Ducasse, told me you only learn by seeing new things and the place to • Pizzeria Bijou, 10 Rue Dancourt
go for that is Paris. Paris opens your mind. You smell food everywhere.” • Le Cherche Midi, 22 Rue du Cherche-Midi

92 Omagazine.com August 2017


Simone couldn’t have chosen a better time to
arrive in the City of Light. The Paris he discovered
in 2009 was not the one that had seen off previous
Italian invaders (Gualtiero Marchesi, the godfather
of modern Italian, being the highest-profile
casualty). It was an open city, in thrall to the new
‘bistronomy’, a youthful, sometimes anarchic
movement that swapped haute cuisine for
off-the-cuff cooking and matey service, in the
process shifting Paris’s gastronomic epicentre
from the centre to the edgy 11th arrondissement.
Simone dived right in: at Rino with Giovanni
Passerini, at Petter Nilsson’s pace-setting La
Gazzetta, Inaki Aizpitarte of Le Chateaubriand’s
Le Dauphin and Sven Chartier’s Saturne.
Lyon-based Italian food writer and curator Andrea
Petrini, founder of Gelinaz!, in whose culinary
‘happenings’ Simone has partaken, explains the
background further: “Simone was one of the first
young Italian guys to come to Paris. If you look at
Paris – and Copenhagen too – you have lots and lots
of Italians; one could say there’s an Italian diaspora.
Why? Because there was an economic crisis and
because, in Italy, despite what you might think from
reading international magazines, it’s not a very open
kind of cuisine. You have to stick with tradition.
The new places in Paris brought a new perspective,
new possibilities.”
Paris was ready for a change, too. For Simone’s
first restaurant (with British chef Michael
Greenwold), Roseval, a buzzing 20-cover boîte
in the up-and-coming 20th arrondissement,
opened in 2012 to rave reviews. A year later, it
scooped ‘best restaurant’ in France’s iconoclastic
PHOTOGRAPHS: MICKAËL A. BANDASSAK
Le Fooding guide from under the noses of the
homegrown talent. How did that go down? “It was
cool,” recalls Simone. “We were young guys,
everyone was super-positive.”
Two years later, to everyone’s surprise, Simone
shuttered Roseval. He was ready for a new
challenge. To wit, Tondo, launched last summer,
10 years after Petter Nilsson’s iconic La Gazzetta
at the same address. Tondo marks a step change
not only for new dad Simone, who turns 30 next
January, but also for ‘bistros-gastros’ in general.
It’s a large, beautiful site, with mosaic floor, velvet
banquettes, tablecloths (linen having been declared
démodé at the height of bistronomy) and room to
move. As Tondo’s British restaurant manager
Stephanie Crockford (ex-Fera at Claridge’s) wryly
notes: “In Paris, it’s hard to find a restaurant where
you’re not sitting in the lap of the person next door.”
The vibe is “New York-y”, says Simone, with a
touch of Chiltern Firehouse. Menus include a
€25 lunch, the €60 carte blanche and the newly
introduced à la carte, supported by a thrilling list
of predominantly natural wines.
Simone looks to a future of “restaurants sans
origines”. It’s telling that his mentors – Petter
Nilsson, Giovanni Passerini, and also Argentine
chef Mauro Colagreco at Mirazur in Menton –
have all been outsiders actively engaged in
exploring the notion of territory on foreign soil.
At Tondo, Simone cooks on an Italian foundation
with French produce supplemented by Italian
ingredients: cheese and anchovies (“the umami
stuff”), lardo, hazelnuts, capers, truffles…“Olive
oil for sure, but also butter since I discovered the
right way to use it. Petter Nilsson used to serve
raw fish with brown butter at La Gazzetta. I was
shocked! But with some acidity – at Roseval I did
tuna with redcurrant, brown butter and a little
vinegar – it can be very interesting.”
At Tondo, the menu dances across continents,
beginning perhaps with focaccia or with brioche run
through with pecorino and guanciale. Next might be
the current bestseller, vitello tonnato, rosy slices of
slow-cooked veal with a tuna, caper and anchovy
emulsion sprinkled with – here’s the twist – za’atar
and peppery nasturtium flowers. Or, from Albenga,
Italy’s best courgettes, barbecued, alongside red
mullet with pancetta tesa melting into the skin. You
may find pasta, if you’re lucky tagliolini with sea
urchin in fennel broth, and almost certainly there
EAT
will be borrowings from Japan, Simone’s current
obsession, such as white asparagus with ‘ricotta
au miso’ and sabayon. But whatever direction the
menu takes, guests always, always finish with a
light-as-air choux bun filled with whipped cream.
And what could be more Parisian than that?
tondo-paris.com
SIMONE TONDO IN SHORT
Favourite dish
Sushi. I didn’t have sushi for the first time
until I was 15. I love it. In Paris, I go to
Sushi Okuda for unagi (eel) sushi.
Favourite drink
Gin and tonic, made with a good gin.
I like Belet.
Most memorable meal
Relæ in Copenhagen. I had lunch at
Noma then went to Relæ for dinner,
thinking it would be impossible to surpass
the lunch at Noma. It surpassed it easily.
I really enjoyed ‘beetroot steak’, a piece
of beetroot cooked like a steak.
Chef or food person you most admire
Pierre Gagnaire, because he’s a nice man.
Of course he’s a great cook, too. And
Massimo Bottura, another nice man.
Guilty pleasure
I can’t start the day without a little bit of
Nutella. But my son can have good
nocciolata – just nuts, no palm oil.
August 2017 Omagazine.com 93

BRAVE BREW
WORLD
Don’t want to waste all of your
hard-earned holiday drinking
bland, watery beer? Let Lonely
Planet’s Global Beer Tour be
your guide and explore the best
taprooms, bars and breweries in
30 countries across five different
continents. Organised by city, this
book will tell you the best brews
to try while you’re there, along with
which museums and galleries to
check out, as well as other insider
tips from the Lonely Planet team.
It’ll even tell you how to ask for
a beer in the local language and
point you in the direction of some
tried-and-tested local hangover
cures. £14.99, lonelyplanet.com
THE
measure
O booze pro Sarah Kingsbury and wine expert Kate Hawkings
track down what to drink and where to drink it
3 OF THE BEST
PIMM’S ALTERNATIVES
Sipsmith London cup A superbly sippable Heston from Waitrose fruit cup
cup inspired by the punches of London’s Using Heston’s earl grey gin
18th-century gin craze, this uses Sipsmith’s as a base, this summer cup
award-winning London dry gin infused infuses fruity blackcurrant,
with earl grey tea, borage and lemon floral elderflower and a zing
verbena, among others. Burnt orange of bergamot, and makes for
and caramel on the nose develops into a fruity and herbaceous
zesty marmalade and bittersweet spice summer refresher.
on the palate. £20/70cl, sipsmith.com £21.35/70cl, waitrose.com
94 Omagazine.com August 2017
THE
REAL DEAL
Swedish vodka
brand Virtuous
Vodka has
launched in
the UK, bringing
a touch of Scandi
style to your
drinks cabinet.
Brainchild of
Claes Stenmark,
Virtuous is made
using organic
Swedish rye in a responsible,
sustainable process. It’s available in
four flavours: blond (original), ginger,
raspberry and bitter lemon, using no
added sugars, artificial flavours or
aromas, so you can feel a little more
virtuous this summer. From £24.25/70cl,
thewhiskyexchange.com
Austin’s from Aldi As near as damn it PHOTOGRAPHS: ROB STREETER, ©TIM CHARODY. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS
to the iconic Pimm’s we all know and
love, you’d only know the difference if
you tasted them one after the other.
Slightly lighter and more citrussy
than the classic, this is a bargain
for your barbecue.
£6.99/1 litre, aldi.co.uk
 EAT

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH SERVE WITH A TWIST

Invented by Count Negroni in Florence
If there’s one thing we Brits should take from Italian culture, it’s aperitivo hour.
in 1919, the negroni, the classic
Now it’s easier than ever as the UK’s guru on Italian spirits, Giuseppe Gallo, has
Italian aperitif, has seen an
launched Italicus to revive Rosolio di Bergamotto, a long-forgotten aperitif spirit
with an ABV of 20%. Produced at a family-owned distillery established in 1906 in explosion in popularity over the
Moncalieri, Torino, Italicus champions the bergamot fruit (the distinctive flavour past few years. Now, Four Pillars
in earl grey tea) and has hints of rose, lavender and ripe citrus with floral spice on has created the perfect gin to
the finish. Perfect topped with prosecco. £30.25/70cl, thewhiskyexchange.com take this classic cocktail to the
next level. Made with blood
orange, ginger, cinnamon, grains
Il aperitivo gallicus • Fill a glass with ice, pour over Italicus, of paradise and pepper, the bold,
5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY top with prosecco and add the olives fragrant Spiced Negroni Gin
on a cocktail stick to serve. has been specially created with
Italicus 50ml bartenders to cut through
prosecco to top up Campari and vermouth.
pitted green olives 3 £43.27/70cl, masterofmalt.com

WHERE TO
BE SEEN

CITY SOCIAL BAR, LONDON

City Social is taking cocktail drinking to
the next level with the launch of Mirage,
an augmented-reality menu. Inspired by
art, the 12 cocktails each have a different
design that comes to life as soon as you
use your phone to scan the coaster.
Sip on the Sashay to see an art nouveau
poster appear in front of your eyes, or try
the Tallulah and watch dancers dive into
your drink. The technology hasn’t
compromised the focus on flavour, with
the Sashay standing out for its smooth and
delicate notes, despite being based around
Japanese plum wine, jasmine and liquorice.
Jamie Jones and Tim Laferla are the
brains behind the menu, and are happy
to admit that it sounds slightly bonkers
at first. Their aim is to create a drink that
not only tastes great but is immersive, too.
citysociallondon.com (Words Ellie Edwards)

August 2017 Omagazine.com 95

EAT

Ka�� Ha�k�n�� o�...

THE UNSUNG WINES OF ITALY
O’s wine expert uncovers some bottles you may not
have heard of before but won’t forget in a hurry

W
hen it comes to
wine, Italy is
surely the most
diverse country in the
world. Wine is made in
every region, from the
cool-climate mountains of Cantine Belisario Lacrima di Morro d’Alba 2016 Marche
the Alto Adige in the far (£13.49, valvonacrolla.co.uk)
north, to the sun-scorched swathes of the south. Lacrima means ‘teardrop’ and refers to the shape of this indigenous
Italy is the world’s largest producer, making grape, as well as to its propensity to ooze juice when fully ripe. It is very
wines of hugely different styles and qualities. distinctive, with floral notes redolent of your granny’s handbag, along with
Piedmont’s noble nebbiolos, with barolo as warming, exotic spices she may not have heard of. A wild-card wine that’s
their king; sangiovese-based chiantis and other bound to be a talking point. Try it with the t-bone steak on p34.
grandees from Tuscany; soaves and amarones
from the Veneto: the great wines of northern and
central Italy are among the finest in the world. Brown Brothers Zibibbo The Wine Society’s
Further south, where the land is often good Rosa sparkling NV Falanghina 2015
for nothing but those hardy Mediterranean (£11.95, slurp.co.uk; Campania (£8.50,
bedfellows, grapes and olives, the wines have hawksheadwines.co.uk) thewinesociety.com)
generally enjoyed less prestigious reputations, Australia has been There is so much more
more appreciated for their rustic charms (and turning its attention to to Italian whites than
cheapness) than for their finesse and complexity. Italian grapes and is the often-dreary pinot
But things are changing. Winemaking in Italy, doing good things grigio we Brits seem
particularly in the south, has improved in recent with them. Zibibbo to adore. This ancient
years, with grapes indigenous to their regions hails from Sicily and grape from Naples’
being championed and treated to careful here is made into hinterland makes for a
handling in the winery. Sicily and Puglia are the a delightful rose- lip-smacking wine, and
regions I most often look to for well-priced wines scented sparkler. has the versatility to
of character and interest, but there are so many Lovely to sip with suit the risotto verde on
more worth exploring. Now is the time to discover the prosecco- p25 and the tray-baked
the unfamiliar wines of Italy – there really is poached peaches chicken thighs with
something for everybody. @KateHawkings on p43. romesco on p69.

Bellavista Franciacorta Alma Gran Cuvée Brut NV

(£28, winedirect.co.uk)
If you’re looking for Italian fizz that’s classier
and more interesting than most proseccos
– and who isn’t? – try a franciacorta
from Lombardy. Not cheap, but they
can give decent champagne a
run for its money and this
is the one that I keep
coming back to.
Re�� t�i�
Chianti Classico: The Search for Tuscany’s Noblest
Wine by Bill Nesto MW and Frances Di Savino.
A scholarly book charting the history of this wine and
region, from its roots reaching back to the Renaissance to
the present-day makers who restored its glory from the
doldrums of the basket-covered bottle years. Shortlisted
for the 2016 André Simon Awards, it’s a great book for
a wine geek. (£32.95, University of California Press)

96 Omagazine.com August 2017

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August 2017 Omagazine.com 97

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 EXPLORE

Fuel up on brandy milk punch

ugust
and killer po’boys in New Orleans.
Beach-hop around the Isles
of Scilly, pausing for lobster
tart and local chardonnay along
the way. Plus this summer’s
hottest Italian food trips
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY

Five classic London eating spots | Alfresco dining in Ibiza

Posh lakeside picnics in Cumbria | The best August food festivals
August 2017 Omagazine.com 99
100 Omagazine.com August 2017
 EXPLORE

Cook like a local

LONDON
A hotbed of creativity, the city’s kitchens produce the very latest in contemporary
British cuisine. But don’t worry, you can still find classic dishes such as veal
and trotter pudding, and perfectly executed eggs benedict
Words: CARA FROST-SHARRATT

L
ondon has history on its side
when it comes to food; eating
out for pleasure first became
fashionable here in the late
18th century. Incredibly, some
of the city’s oldest dining
establishments – including
Rules, Sweetings and Simpsons-in-the-Strand
– are still serving classic British dishes more
than 100 years after opening. Add successive
waves of immigration, each one introducing
ethnic cuisines and broadening palates, and it’s
little wonder the UK capital has such a vibrant,
constantly evolving and audacious food scene.
While you can’t ignore the incredible line-up
of Michelin restaurants London has to offer, you
don’t need a bottomless wallet to eat well.
Maverick chefs test new concepts in pop-ups
and, when the queues become legendary, they
start looking for permanent homes – Meat Liquor
and Pitt Cue both began trading from food vans.
Meanwhile, supper clubs allow you to sample
good food for bargain prices via websites such
as grubclub.com. And London’s food markets are
second-to-none when it comes to ingredients and
street food. Borough Market, Maltby Street,
Broadway, Kerb, Greenwich Market and Brick
Lane are all well worth visiting.
Then there’s the increasing number of night
food markets that have sprung up. Street Feast
in Dalston, Dinerama in Shoreditch, Mercato
Metropolitano in Elephant and Castle, and Model
Market in Lewisham are just some of the places
you’ll find an eclectic, international mix of food
stalls (including Club Mexicana, Duck ’n Roll
and Yum Bum, as well as beer tents, craft
cocktail bars, live music and DJs. The ripple
effect has seen old boozers and empty industrial
units being revamped into chic dining rooms
by chefs keen to open their own restaurants
(try The Marksman in Hackney and Sparrow
in Lewisham). London is not just on the
»
food-lovers’ map but re-shaping it.

August 2017 Omagazine.com 101

 classic places to eat &
drink in London...
ST JOHN
Enjoy the original nose-to-tail dining
experience at Fergus Henderson and Trevor
Gulliver’s groundbreaking restaurant. The
food is gutsy, hands-on and meat-focussed;
take the opportunity to try classic dishes
such as veal and trotter pudding, or the
simply executed roast bone marrow.
stjohngroup.uk.com
SWEETINGS
Sweetings has been serving seafood to
city gents since 1830. It revels in being
old-fashioned: it refuses to take bookings
and doesn’t have a menu, though expect
oysters, smoked eel, potted shrimps, lobster
thermidor and fish pie (followed by baked
jam roll). sweetingsrestaurant.co.uk
THE IVY
The go-to haunt of anyone who wants
everyone to know where they’ve been for
dinner, The Ivy is the darling of Covent
Garden. But a restaurant is only as good
as the food it serves. Go there for quality
comfort food – shepherd’s pie, grilled Dover
sole and knickerbocker glories. the-ivy.co.uk
THE MARKSMAN
Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram have turned
this Hackney boozer into a pub where you
can enjoy high-end food without the price
tag. It recently won Michelin Guide Pub of
the Year and its beef and barley buns are the
stuff of legend. marksmanpublichouse.com
THE WOLSELEY
With an all-day menu of classic European
fare served in one of the most spectacular
dining rooms in the capital, The Wolseley
is an institution. Perfectly executed eggs
benedict is the signature dish, but smoked
haddock and the classic Wolseley
hamburger are also superb.
thewolseley.com
102 Omagazine.com August 2017
Grilled quail and burnt bay
bread sauce
50 MINUTES + BRINING + INFUSING | SERVES 4 | EASY
You can find this on the menu at The Marksman.
quails 4, spatchcocked
unsalted butter 50g
chicken stock 400ml
lemons 2, halved
BRINE
beer 500ml
sea salt 3 tbsp
thyme a few sprigs
black peppercorns 10
red chilli 1, split lengthways
lemon 1, sliced
BREAD SAUCE
bay leaves 6
whole milk 750ml
cloves 6
black peppercorns 6
onion 1, sliced
nutmeg a pinch of grated
white bread 6 stale slices, crusts removed
and cut into small cubes
• For the brine, add all of the ingredients to
a large bowl along with 500ml of water, mix well,
add the quails and chill in the fridge overnight.
• To make the bread sauce, hold the bay leaves
over a gas hob using tongs until blackened, or
heat the grill to high and grill for 1-2 minutes
until blackened. Put into a pan with the milk,
PHOTOGRAPHS: JON CARTWRIGHT, CRAFT LONDON, DAVID GRIFFEN, JORGE MONEDERO, DAVID MUNNS, JEMMA WATTS
cloves, peppercorns, onion, nutmeg and
a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil over a medium
heat, take off the heat, cover and leave to infuse
for at least 1 hour. Sieve the milk and add to
a pan with the bread. Cook over a medium heat
for 15 minutes until thickened. Keep warm.
• In a small saucepan add the unsalted butter
and cook over a medium heat for 5 minutes
until browned, stirring regularly. Carefully add
the chicken stock and reduce until saucy.
Take the quails out of the brine. Heat
a barbecue to high and grill the quails for
10 minutes on each side until cooked through.
Alternatively, heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/
gas 6. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan and brown
the quails all over, then place on a baking tray,
breast-side up, and roast for 10-15 minutes.
• Put the lemon halves cut-side down onto
the barbecue for 5-10 minutes until charred,
or heat a griddle pan to medium-high and
cook for 5-10 minutes.
• To serve, spoon the bread sauce onto a plate,
pile the quails on top with the charred lemons
and spoon over the reduced chicken stock.
 EXPLORE

Cara Frost-Sharratt TRUST

is a Londoner with O
a passion for food. She
has written a number of
books about eating out in
London. Her latest is London: The
Cookbook (£20, Frances Lincoln).

August 2017 Omagazine.com 103

 O n t he r oad:
Is�e� o� Sc�l��
This handful of islands strewn off the most westerly tip of
Cornwall has long been known for its flower farms and silver-sand
beaches, but food is making its mark here, too – look out for
lobster quiches, crab feasts and local wines
Words CLARE HARGREAVES
T
here’s trouble at Troytown Farm
on St Agnes (troytown.co.uk).
Gem, one of farmer Tim Hicks’
11 Jersey cows, has been munching
the three-cornered leeks that grow
in the hedgerows again, making her
milk smell and taste of garlic. It’s not
an ideal flavouring for the ice cream the family makes
for a living, so it’s gone to the pigs. Lucky pigs.
St Agnes is the most south-westerly inhabited island
of the Isles of Scilly, 28 miles off Land’s End. Getting
a more westerly scoop than this would mean carrying
on to Newfoundland, though why would you? Happily,
despite Gem’s best intentions, there’s still plenty of
ice cream for me, and the folks staying on Troytown’s
beachside campsite, to try today. There’s creamy
strawberry, salty caramel and bestselling vanilla, similar
in colour to the narcissi that once carpeted the island
until demand ran dry. My favourite is rose geranium,
flavoured from plants grown by Tim’s brother. Apparently
I’m in elevated company. When Prince Charles, Scilly’s
landowner, visited with Camilla, she was captivated by its
lightly perfumed aroma, says Sue, Tim’s wife who makes
the ice cream, along with yogurt, clotted cream and butter.
The Hicks don’t just do dairy, however. Walking across
the rocky mile-long island, Tim points out his Red Ruby
beef cattle, piglets and handkerchief-sized plots of
early potatoes, which he reckons are every bit as tasty
as the better-known Jersey Royals. All of it, plus the
milk and other dairy produce, is sold at the farm shop.
OPPOSITE PAGE (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): BRYHER LOBSTER; ST MARY’S COASTLINE; A LOCAL FISHING BOAT; TROYTOWN ICE CREAMS
104 Omagazine.com August 2017
Given the hefty cost of importing food from the
mainland, Troytown’s inspirational steps towards
self-sufficiency make sense. It’s also helping turn the
Isles of Scilly into a destination known not just for its
silver-sand beaches, balmy climate and gentle pace
of life but, increasingly, for food. This September the
archipelago celebrates this blossoming culinary culture
with a Taste of Scilly Festival (visitislesofscilly.com/
tasteofscilly) offering everything from pop-up beach
barbecues to supper trips by boat and pasty-making
masterclasses.
Given its tiny population (just 80), St Agnes has an
impressive choice of restaurants. By day, Coastguards
Café delivers crab sandwiches, cream teas and dreamy
sea views, then in the evening transforms into High Tide
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANTHONY GREENWOOD, GETTY IMAGES, VISIT ISLES OF SCILLY
(hightide-seafood.com), a bijou restaurant run by Kiwi
Mark Eberlein. The latter is getting a reputation as one
of Scilly’s top places to eat, offering choices such as
guinea fowl, or Scilly John Dory with scallops, samphire
and St Agnes lobster bisque sauce.
For pub grub, snuggle inside the Turk’s Head. If the
weather’s inclement, one of its hot chocolates with a kick
of St Agnes brandy will sort you. The inn is by the jetty, so
you can even pop over by boat from the principal island of
St Mary’s for supper, which adds to the adventure. It beats
struggling home on the number 19 bus.
Arriving back on St Mary’s, the island’s main settlement,
Hugh Town, feels hectic – there are even, shock horror,
a few cars. I retreat to the 16th-century castle overlooking
the town, built by Elizabeth I to keep the pesky Spanish »
 EXPLORE

August 2017 Omagazine.com 105

 at bay and now transformed into the Star Castle Hotel (star-castle.co.uk).
Its star shape makes for characterful accommodation, including three dinky
guardhouse rooms on the ramparts. Imbibe its history, and locally brewed
Ales of Scilly beer, in its eccentric dungeon bar.
For fine dining, this is your place. Choose between the cosy, tapestry-
clad dining room tucked inside the castle’s granite walls, and the airy
conservatory. Naturally, fish is king, including lobster and crab caught by
the Star’s owner Robert Francis. I follow a starter of saffron-infused local
red mullet and dressed crab with a main of local turbot with a lobster tart.
Local meat also gets a look-in, notably flavoursome free-range duck reared
on nearby Salakee Farm (salakeefarm.co.uk).
Next morning I stop at The Farm Deli (@thefarmdeliscilly), where
there’s more meat on offer, from the farm of owner Jon May. There’s St
Agnes chocolate and Veronica Farm fudge (using Troytown milk and butter)
from Bryher, and St Martin’s SC salt, too. The highlight is its stellar quiches
made on site by cook Kerry Bond. Rock up early to grab a slice of Kerry’s
lobster quiche or quiche lorraine, as they disappear in minutes.
A walk through gorse-studded lanes takes me to Holy Vale, a magical spot
at the island’s centre, which the Star Castle’s Robert Francis has planted
with vines. He produced his first wines in 2014 and hosts evening vineyard
tastings. But I’m here for the blowout option: a lobster and Holy Vale
Vineyard chardonnay lunch. “My son thinks I’m barking mad,” Robert
grins as we tuck in. Whatever the state of Robert’s sanity, as gastronomic
experiences go this is hard to beat – and the wine pleasingly drinkable.
Dessert is apple strudel at the Kaffeehaus (scillyguesthouse.co.uk)
ABOVE (FROM LEFT): STAR CASTLE HOTEL AND LOBSTER AT HOLY VALE VINEYARD, BOTH ON ST MARY’S; A CHEF AT WORK AT CRAB SHACK ON BRYHER
106 Omagazine.com August 2017
belonging to Munich-born Sabine Schraudolph, who caught the Scilly bug
after holidaying here in 1995. “It’s my grandmother’s recipe,” she says.
“I use only Bramley apples, and peel each by hand.” Sabine also offers
this and savoury strudel at a takeaway outlet in town. It’s housed inside
a hairdresser’s, so the locals nickname it The Hairy Strudel.
The iconic lunch spot is nearby Juliet’s (julietsgardenrestaurant.co.uk),
which for 36 years has been run by Juliet May, who moved here after
marrying a Scillonian flower grower. You sit among the greenhouses
on the couple’s flower farm overlooking Hugh Town’s beaches. I plump for
a plate of crab and homegrown tomatoes, beetroots and leaves. There are
scones and brandy fruit cake, too, and in the evening a more formal menu.
Equally exquisitely located is Dibble and Grub (dibbleandgrub.com),
a tapas hangout inside a former fire station (hence the name – remember
the children’s TV series Trumpton?) bang on Porthcressa beach. Or if
you’re in a fishy mood and want to eat with the locals, head for The Galley
PHOTOGRAPHS: CLARE HARGREAVES, VISIT ISLES OF SCILLY
restaurant, above the chippie on Hugh Town’s main street. My crab and
smoked salmon tian starter is a triumph.
The other islands – locally dubbed the “off islands” – have a smattering
of cafés and restaurants. Well-heeled Tresco boasts the New Inn and the
Ruin Beach Café (for both see tresco.co.uk). Wilder Bryher is home to
Atlantic-lashed Hell Bay Hotel (hellbay.co.uk), which in summer runs
a pop-up Crab Shack inside a barn. Seated at communal tables, guests
feast on local crab, mussels and scallops.
I, however, am braving the morning boat-catchers’ rush hour to travel to
»
St Martin’s, the most northerly of Scilly’s inhabited islands. As we approach
 EXPLORE

“ In the evenings, fisherman Adam Morton fries up fish and

chips in a simple log cabin near the beach”

August 2017 Omagazine.com 107

EXPLORE
the jetty in Higher Town, the shimmering seas are so turquoise and the
beaches so white that I have to pinch myself to believe I’m not in St Kitts.
My hosts are Jason and Sarah Poat who run Polreath (polreath.com),
a handsome three-storey guesthouse in a large garden of sub-tropical
plants. This place, I discover, is a true foodie find. There’s Jason’s
focaccia for lunch, homemade scones and carrot cake for tea (they
run a tearoom, too), and for supper, whatever Keith, the local fisherman,
has brought in earlier in the day. Today it’s grey mullet, which Jason
cooks en papillote with ginger, lemon zest and garden-grown fennel.
Venison stew and mash follow, then a wonderfully moist and sticky
ginger-and-porter pudding that’s caressed with butterscotch sauce and
a sprinkling of almond brittle. Apparently Jason’s curries, dished up
under the glasshouse vines and open to non-residents, are just as good.
Higher Town has other tasty offerings. The Island Bakery
(theislandbakery-stmartins.com) makes breads, cakes and obligatory pasties,
based on a Cornish recipe. “It was in a Women’s Institute recipe book that
our local fisherman brought in,” says owner Barney McLachlan, as his
fingers deftly crimp pasty edges to make it look like rope.
In the evenings, fisherman Adam Morton fries up fish and chips in
a simple log cabin near the beach. Adam catches the fish (usually
pollack), while his brother grows the spuds, so it’s deliciously sustainable.
And, judging by the hordes arriving just as I visit, massively popular
– booking is essential.
There’s an equally strong community vibe at the Seven Stones Inn
ABOVE (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): PICKING SAGE FLOWERS IN POLREATH; BARNEY MCLACHLAN OF THE ISLAND BAKERY ON ST MARTIN’S; SEAFOOD FOR SALE ON ST AGNES;
VIBRANT SCALLOPS AT KARMA HOTEL RESTAURANT ON ST MARTIN’S; THE SEVEN STONES INN; SC SALT AT THE FARM DELI, ST MARY’S
108 Omagazine.com August 2017
(@sevenstonesinn), 20 minutes’ walk away in Middle Town. The views
from its terrace are mind-blowing, as is the eclectic assortment of antique
settles inside. Food is simple but wholesome – I try a plate of pearl
couscous with roasted veg and halloumi. Many ingredients are local,
including salad leaves, new potatoes and carrots cultivated a few yards
away by grower Ian Metcalf. But what really makes this place are Dom
and Emily Crees, the most relaxed hosts ever. “We camped here for our
honeymoon and heard the pub was for sale,” smiles Emily. “We joined
forces with Dom’s parents and bought it.”
On my last evening I dine at the Karma St Martin’s Hotel
(karmagroup.com) overlooking the pristine beaches of Lower Town. Part
of an Indian-owned chain, its atmosphere – and prices – are a world away
from the laid-back Seven Stones. But my charred sea scallops with red
PHOTOGRAPHS: JASON POAT, CLARE HARGREAVES, VISIT ISLES OF SCILLY
pepper purée, and pan-fried turbot (both locally caught) are good. And the
blood orange sunset, which I nip outside just in time to catch, rounds it
off perfectly.
HOW TO DO IT
Return fares on ferries from Penzance to St Mary’s cost from £39.50
(islesofscilly-travel.co.uk). Double rooms at the Star Castle Hotel cost from
£244, half board (star-castle.co.uk). Double rooms at Polreath cost from
£137 on the same basis (polreath.com). More info: visitislesofscilly.com.
Follow Clare on Twitter and Instagram @larderloutUK, #Otravels.
 O
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 EXPLORE
Stopover
NEW ORLEANS 9
Get stuck into the Big Easy by seeking out killer cocktails
and iconic French Creole and Cajun dishes, from
crawfish beignets to shrimp po’boys
Words RIEN FERTEL
1 4
A grand brunch Breakfast at Brennan’s has
been a draw since 1946. This grande dame of
New Orleans restaurants serves up dozens of
egg dishes accompanied by brandy milk punches.
Save room for the bananas Foster, a boozy banana
and ice-cream dessert. brennansneworleans.com
2
Take a class At the New Orleans School
of Cooking, chef Kevin Belton teaches
Creole and Cajun cuisine to students of all
skill levels. Learn to make local favourites like
étouffée, red beans and rice, bread pudding,
and pralines. neworleansschoolofcooking.com
3
Creole cuisine queen New Orleans icon
Leah Chase has run the kitchen at Dooky
Chase’s Restaurant since the 1950s.
Barack Obama stopped in for the gumbo, shrimp
Creole and fried chicken. dookychaserestaurant.com
110 Omagazine.com August 2017
Modern po’boy Cam Boudreaux and April
Bellow reinvent New Orleans’ most famous
sandwich at Killer Poboys. Look out for
their skull and crossed baguette log. Once you find
them, choose a black beer beef debris, with pickled
peppers, green beans and horseradish sauce,
or a seared gulf shrimp, with coriander-lime spice,
sriracha, aïoli, herbs, daikon, carrot and cucumber.
Both are served on a Vietnamese bánh mì baguette.
killerpoboys.com
5
Objet d’art Allow yourself to splurge
at Lucullus, a French Quarter store
specialising in culinary antiques from the
17th to 19th centuries that has been drawing
crowds for almost 30 years. It’s worth a poke around
even if you’re not in the market for Belle Époque
silver vodka thimbles or an 18th-century chocolate
cutter. lucullusantiques.com
6
In a spin Go early to grab a seat at the
Hotel Monteleone’s Carousel Bar
& Lounge. The bar rotates by a full
revolution every 15 minutes – enough time to grab
a vieux carré cocktail (rye, cognac, vermouth,
Bénédictine and bitters) and a plate of blue crab
and crawfish beignets. hotelmonteleone.com
7
Grab a loaf Sicilian immigrant Salvatore
Lupo invented the muffuletta sandwich more
than a century ago. His descendants still
operate Central Grocery, where the dense
sesame-seeded loaves come packed with four types
of cured meats, two cheeses and crunchy, pickled
olive salad. centralgrocery.com
8
Hop to it Chef Nina Compton has been
racking up awards for her work at Compère
Lapin, where Caribbean meets Creole. Pair
conch croquettes and seafood pepper pot with the
handiwork of Abigail Gullo, one of the city’s most
exciting mixologists. comperelapin.com
Classic cocktails The city’s most lauded
bartender, Chris Hannah, quietly mixes
drinks at Arnaud’s French 75 bar.
Order a locally invented cocktail, like a sazerac
or brandy crusta, and don’t miss the surreal
Mardi Gras museum in the attic.
arnaudsrestaurant.com/bars/french-75
10
Starry night Just outside the French
Quarter, the backyard party held each
night at Bacchanal makes for one of the
city’s great romantic spots. Enjoy wines from small
producers and bowls of ceviche while listening to
jazz under the night sky. bacchanalwine.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: ARNAUD’S, BRENNAN’S, GETTY IMAGES, NEW ORLEANS TOURISM
HOW TO DO IT
Direct return flights from London to New Orleans
start from £695 (ba.com). Double rooms at the
Melrose Mansion cost from around $155, b&b
(melrosemansion.com).
More info: neworleansonline.com.
TRUST Rien Fertel is a food writer based
O in New Orleans. His latest book
is The One True Barbecue
(£19.47, Simon & Schuster).

 EXPLORE

Ital ian f ood tr i ps

Wood-fired pizzas, sing
le-variety
y grilled octopus
apple juices and smok
Grazie mille!
with fava bean purée?
South Tyrol
Surrounded by mountains and Alpine valleys, the San Luis hotel opened
a year ago near the hamlet of Avelengo. Bedrooms are scattered in chalets
and treehouses around a lake and there’s a spa with an indoor/outdoor pool.
Under executive chef Arturo Spicocchi’s direction, the buzzy dining room
offers menus in two guises: one draws on the region’s Austro-Italian gastro-
heritage, another takes a more modern, Mediterranean-inspired approach.
A huge table by the hearth groans with antipasti while other must-tries include
wiener schnitzel with cucumber and potato salad, and on Tuesday’s grill night
cuts of veal, ribs and beef are cooked on the open fire and served with baked
potatoes. Tea time heralds cakes, ice creams and single-variety apple juices.
Return flights from various UK airports to Verona start from around £60
(easyjet.com). Doubles start from 325 per person, per night, half-board
(sanluis-hotel.com). More info: suedtirol.info

Venice
PHOTOGRAPHS: STEFANO SCATÀ, PIER PAOLO METELLI, JW MARRIOTT VENICE RESORT & SPA. WORDS: SARAH LANE, AOIFE O’RIORDAIN, SARAH BAXTER

On an island just beyond the Venetian lagoon, JW Marriott Venice

Resort has reimagined the art deco and romanesque revival
buildings of a former sanatorium as a five-star retreat.
The resort’s parkland is a flourish of foliage unusual for Venice.
There’s also a spa and three pools, while the Dopolavoro dining
room holds a Michelin star (salads grown in its garden are drizzled
with the island’s – and Venice’s – only homegrown olive oil). Less
formal is Sagra, a rooftop restaurant serving smoky grilled octopus
with fava bean purée and tortellini filled with silken mushrooms.
The resort is also home to the Sapori cooking academy. Make
local dishes after a tour of the Rialto market, take a garden tour with
the island’s farmer or join a tasting of that locally produced olive oil.
Return flights from various UK airports to Venice cost from
around £60 (easyjet.com). Doubles start at 395, room only
(marriott.co.uk). More info: turismovenezia.it
Umbria
Stone archways, cobbled lanes and geraniums link the houses
of Montecchio, a medieval village south-east of Orvieto. Make
your base Casa Jole, a homestay owned by local food-lover
Cristina. Outside there’s a wood-fired pizza oven and
a spectacular veranda. Breakfasting here on homemade
peach, fig or plum jam and toast while watching mist rise from
the valley is idyllic. As is sipping Svìnnere wild cherry wine at
the end of the day, watching stars and flickering glow-worms.
Cristina takes guests to pick up vegetables, guinea fowl and
wine at local villages and is happy to share recipes for the
region’s signature wild boar stew and local ombrichelli pasta
– and to give insider tips on local restaurants. Don’t miss the
ancient Bartolomei olive mill, where you can taste deliciously
nutty olive oil in the mill room.
Trains from London to Orvieto cost from £249 return
(voyages-sncf.com). Doubles at Casa Jole start from 65,
b&b (homestay.com). More info: inorvieto.it

August 2017 Omagazine.com 111

 EXPLORE

FOOD
MILEAGE
Catch up on the latest openings, eats and reads
around the world with travel editor Rhiannon Batten

THREE GREAT AUGUST ESCAPE

FOOD HAPPENINGS
Oxfordshire’s Wilderness
music festival (3-6 August)
sticks to its recipe of offbeat,
foodie fun with woodland
walks, wild swimming,
wood-fired feasts and food
from the likes of Nuno Mendes,
Thomasina Miers and Kricket.
wildernessfestival.com
It’s worth hanging around in
Oxfordshire to catch The Big
Feastival (25-27 August).
This year’s star-studded line-up
sees Olly Murs and De La Soul
sharing the spotlight with
Rick and Jack Stein, Olia
We’ve long been fans of Watergate Bay Hotel in Cornwall,
with its clever blend of seriously grown-up food and drink,
stylish but unshowy rooms, family-friendly facilities and an
outdoorsy, surfer-y kind of vibe. So we’re just a teeny bit
excited at news of the company’s second hotel, due to
open in the Lake District this month.
The new venture, Another Place, The Lake, promises
40 bedrooms, an Ofsted-registered kids’ space, a sleek
swimming pool and 18 acres of lakeside fun, from sailing
and cycling to shoreline barbecues and picnics, and
a restaurant using fresh-from-the-kitchen-garden veg
alongside Herdwick lamb, Morecambe Bay shrimp and
Cumberland sausage. another.place
DINE
If you’re in Ibiza this summer, make sure you grab dinner
at El Portalon, in the Old Town. Opened in May by
READ
If you can’t afford a summer holiday this year
don’t even sneak a peek at Naples and the
Amalfi Coast. The latest in a series of regional
recipe books put together by the team behind
Italian cooking bible The Silver Spoon is such
a glorious, sun-soaked jaunt through the
kitchens, trattorias, food festivals and markets
of Italy’s west coast that it will have you
reaching for your passport before you can say
tutti frutti. Packed with background on the
region’s signature ingredients
and dishes – including the
Neopolitan pizza, ragu, San
Marzano tomatoes and
limoncello – thankfully, for
readers with a little more
self-control, it’s also just as
ripe with recipes to recreate
at home. (£24.95, Phaidon)

PHOTOGRAPHS: VICTORIA PURCELL, AIMEE ROWE-BEST

Hercules and Romy Gill.
thebigfeastival.com
Anyone who saw our Ribble
Valley feature in the February
issue will want to make a
beeline for Clitheroe Food
Festival (12 August) to meet
some of Lancashire’s finest
foodie producers in one place.
clitheroefoodfestival.com
local chef, farmer and author Anne Sijmonsbergen, the
60-cover restaurant and bar is spread across the ground
floor of a historic palacio, but it’s the terrace we’ll be
homing in on – and a sun-dappled table sheltered by
leafy branches interspersed with enamel lampshades.
Under executive chef Filippo Alberi, expect a menu
packed with produce from Anne’s organic farm, and
Ibiza’s best artisan producers. Think juniper-encrusted
pork tenderloin, steamed mussels with samphire, and
courgette and asparagus tostadas with ricotta and mint,
plus flash-distilled herb cocktails. elportalonibiza.com

112 Omagazine.com August 2017

 EXPLORE

Instatravel Abruzzo
The world’s larder through a lens by (3,? *96::3,@

#olivetravels
Follow us on
instagram
Valley views from one of two
luxury yurts 'ÄYLÅPLZHUKÄNZ
`\Y[SPML

A sleepy square
in the medieval mountain
village of Pacentro

Artichoke and wild

mushroom pappardelle at
Taverna de li Caldora in
7HJLU[YV

'HWLYVSZWYP[aVMMPJPHS in the
Breakfast overlooking
square at Guardiagrele
the olive groves
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How to do it. .
7/6;6.9(7/:! (3,? *96::3,@

9L[\YU ÅPNO[Z MYVT 3VUKVU [V 7LZJHYH JVZ[ MYVT

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo wine made
from TVU[LW\SJPHUV grapes
£39 return (ryanair.com @\Y[Z H[ -PYLÅPLZ HUK -PNZ
cost from £120 per night, b&b (ÄYLÅPLZHUKÄNZ JV \R).
See more on Instagram (search Oeatsabruzzo) and
at Omagazine.com
August 2017 Omagazine.com 113
 PASTA
QUALITY
Look for dried pasta made with durum wheat
(or pasta di semola di grano duro, in Italian).
This hard wheat is high in gluten, which gives
pasta its unique elastic texture and allows
it to cook to al dente without becoming
gummy or sticky. Budget ranges are often
made with cheaper flours and the texture
is not as good.
In premium brands, bronze dies are often
used to shape the pasta; this gives a slight
roughness to the finished result that allows
sauces to cling more effectively. Most
supermarket premium ranges are very high
quality and widely available good brands
include Barilla, De Cecco and Garofalo.
FRESH VS DRIED
Don’t assume that supermarket fresh pasta
is superior to dried. Those bags of ‘fresh’
pasta you find in the chiller cabinets of
supermarkets will have been treated to
prolong their shelf life (sometimes up to six
weeks) and cooking it is trickier (it often
becomes mushy very quickly). I would
always choose a good-quality dried pasta
114 Omagazine.com August 2017
Food director Janine Ratcliffe shares
her tips and tricks for perfect pasta
Photographs ROB STREETER
over a bag of fresh. If you are buying a filled
pasta, such as a ravioli or tortellini, from a
supermarket then look in the frozen aisle
for those with the best texture.
PERFECT PASTA COOKING
You want enough water for the pasta to
boil freely without sticking together. Get
the water to a good rolling boil and add a
tablespoon of salt. You want to be able to
taste the salt but it shouldn’t be overly salty
– your finished sauce is what you really want
to flavour the pasta. The salt in the water
is there just as a base seasoning.
Pay attention at the beginning of cooking.
Give short pasta a good stir once you add
it and again once it comes to the boil.
With long pasta, such as spaghetti
or linguine, keep agitating it until it
has softened enough to be immersed
in the water then stir a few times
until you can see the strands have
separated. Adding oil to the
water won’t stop pasta sticking
together, it will just make drained
pasta more slippery and harder
to coat with sauce. »

BUCATINI
A long pasta which looks like
fat spaghetti but has a hole running
through the centre (pictured above)
– it’s lovely with tomato sauces such
as the classic amatriciana.
STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH
ORECCHIETTE
These little, thick, ear-shaped
pasta buttons are great for
soaking up lighter brothy
sauces (like the seafood
pasta on page 32).
EXPERT
PASTA SHAPES
WE LOVE
RIGATONI
This chunky, tubular pasta is
great with chunky veg sauces,
meatballs or in a pasta bake.
GIANT CONCHIGLIE
Once par-cooked these big shells
can be stuffed with ricotta and
spinach then baked in a rich
tomato sauce. They make a pretty
alternative to cannelloni or lasagne.
CASARECCE
A twisted short pasta that retains
a good bite. This is great with
homemade pesto or a raw tomato
sauce (see the recipe on page 116).
ORZO
This tiny rice-shaped pasta is
a bit of a multi-tasker. Add it to
soups for extra body, toss with
PAPPARDELLE butter and parmesan to serve with
A flat, wide, ribbon-shaped pasta which a meaty stew, or stir through the
is great with a red wine and meat ragu. roasting juices of a leg of lamb.
August 2017 Omagazine.com 115
 Casarecce with raw cooking water to the sauce. Drain the pasta
tomato sauce and toss with the sauce. Sprinkle over the
15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | torn basil and serve.

cherry tomatoes 250g, halved PER SERVING 596 KCALS | FAT 24.3G | SATURATES 3.5G
spring onions 3, finely chopped CARBS 76.8G | SUGARS 6.7G | FIBRE 6.9G
extra-virgin olive oil 4 tbsp PROTEIN 14.1G | SALT 0.2G
red wine vinegar 3 tbsp
Tabasco 4-5 dashes
casarecce 200g
basil a few leaves, torn

• In a bowl, mix together the cherry tomatoes,

spring onions, olive oil, vinegar, Tabasco and
season really well with salt and pepper.
• Add the casarecce to a large pan
of salted boiling water and cook
until al dente. Before draining
the pasta, add 1-2 tbsp of the

116 Omagazine.com August 2017


TIMINGS
Use the timings on the pasta packet as a
rough guide only. A couple of minutes before
the recommended cooking time is up, start
checking the pasta to see if it’s done.
The only way you can really tell
whether pasta is cooked is to fish
a piece out and taste it (forget
throwing spaghetti at a wall!).
If you are double-cooking pasta
for a lasagne or pasta bake,
remember to undercook the
pasta so it can finish
cooking in the sauce.
Drain a couple of
minutes before
it’s done, then
rinse in cold water
so it doesn’t
continue to
cook in the
residual heat.
GET SAUCY
Unless your sauce is a
thin broth that the pasta
is designed to sit in, the
sauce should just dress the
pasta rather than swim in it.
Keep a cup of cooking water when
you drain the pasta and add a couple
of tablespoons when you toss the pasta
and sauce together. You can also use a large
slotted spoon or a pair of tongs to lift the
pasta from the cooking pot directly into the
sauce (this will bring some water with it).
The starch in the water will help emulsify
sauces, especially oily and creamy ones
like pesto and carbonara that can go a bit
wodgy without extra liquid. Tossing the pasta
and sauce over the heat for the last minute
of cooking will make the sauce meld with the
pasta more effectively.
EXPERT
La�� b�t�
r�c�p�
Pizza swirl bread
1 HOUR + RISING AND PROVING | SERVES 7 | EASY
ciabatta bread mix 500g
olive oil
plain flour for dusting
tomato pasta sauce 150ml
tomato purée 1 tbsp
basil a handful, chopped
block mozzarella 200g, grated
pepperoni 80g, chopped
• Make the dough following pack
instructions. Leave to rise as instructed, then
tip onto the worksurface and knead briefly.
Preheat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5.
Brush a 25-26cm springform cake tin with
plenty of olive oil.
• Dust the worksurface with flour, then
roll the dough to a rectangle approx
30cm x 50cm. Make sure the longest side
is closest to you. Mix the sauce, purée and
basil, and spread over the dough, then
scatter over the mozzarella and pepperoni.
• Roll up from the long end keeping the
roll as even as possible. Cut into 7 equal
slices and sit, spiral-side up, in the tin.
Cover with oiled clingfilm and leave for
30 minutes to prove.
• Bake in the oven for 35-40 minutes until
risen and golden.
PER SERVING 336 KCALS | FAT 16.1G | SATURATES 6.7G
CARBS 31.3G | SUGARS 2.6G | FIBRE 1.8G
PROTEIN 15.4G | SALT 1.8G
COOK’S NOTES
Block mozzarella is much firmer than balls kept in
water, so will stop the bread becoming soggy. You
could also use ready-grated mozzarella.
August 2017 Omagazine.com 117
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