SNOWBOARD KNOWLEDGE

PROPER BODY POSITION WHILE SNOWBOARDING

Learning the proper, relaxed
body position on a
snowboard will help you
balance and control your
board better and ride more
efficiently.

Here’s how to get into a basic snowboard stance:

- Flex your knees and ankles, keeping your knees tracked over your toes.
- Your shoulders and hips should all be in line with your board.
- Relax your arms by your side and keep a calm upper body.

PROPER POSITION WHILE MAKING A J-TURN

One of the first skills you’ll learn when riding a snowboard is the J-turn, which is how you start shaping a
turn. When learning the J-turn, you will glide straight and turn slightly uphill in the shape of the letter J.
Practice first with the front foot strapped into your binding and your rear foot resting on top of the board.
TOE-SIDE J-TURN
1. Point your snowboard straight down a
gentle slope and glide forward.
2. Shift your weight to the front foot and over
your toes. Move your hips over the toe-side
edge as you flex your ankles and knees.
3. Getting your weight over that toe-side edge
should start to turn the board across the hill.
4. Repeat the process while you practice on a
gentle slope with a flat runout.
HEEL-SIDE J-TURN
1. Point your snowboard straight down a gentle
slope and glide forward.
2. Shift your weight toward the front foot and
over your heels. You should feel your calf and
boot hitting the front highback. Move your hips
over your heel-side edge as you flex your ankles
and knees.
3. Getting your weight over that heel-side edge
should start to turn the board uphill.
4. Again, repeat the process while you practice turning across a gentle slope.
Tip for J-turns: Don’t stand up tall. For your heel-side turn, keep your knees bent like you’re sitting in a
chair.

PROPER POSITION WHILE TRAVERSING

When you traverse, you’re learning to balance and hold an edge to travel across a slope.
TOE-SIDE TRAVERSE
1. Keep your board across the slope and on the
uphill edge when you stand up so you don’t slide
down the hill.
2. Flex your knees and keep your weight evenly
distributed over the toe-side edge while you find
the balance point.
3. Shift your weight toward your front foot and
then let that front foot flatten a bit. You’ll start to
move in the direction of the nose of your board.
4. To slow down, center your weight between both feet and lean more over the edge you are standing on.
Increasing the edge angle will slow you down and eventually bring you to a stop.
Tip: Your shins move toward your toes. Don’t try to balance on tiptoes.
HEEL-SIDE TRAVERSE
1. Keep your board across the slope and on the
uphill edge when you stand up so you don’t slide
down the hill.
2. Your hips should be over the heel-side edge as
you find the balance point.
3. Bend your knees, as if you’re sitting down in a
chair. You should feel the highback of your
binding against your calves.
4. Slowly shift weight toward the front foot and let that front foot flatten a bit. You’ll start to move in the
direction of the nose of your board.
5. To slow down, center your weight between both feet and lean more over the edge you are standing on.
Increasing the edge angle will slow you down and eventually bring you to a stop.
Tip: Make small tilting adjustments to control the board. Avoid standing too tall or making larger
movements.
HOW TO TRAVERSE INTO A TURN
Now that you’ve practiced riding across the slope, you’ll learn to make your first full turn. First try this on
a gentle slope with a flat runout so if you run into trouble, the terrain will naturally stop you.
1. Just as you did while traversing, start shifting your weight over the front foot.
2. But this time let the board flatten so you head straight downhill (into the fall line, the most direct route
downhill).
3. As you flatten the board, get into a centered, athletic stance while still keeping more weight on your
front foot.
4. Once you’re on a flat board and in the fall line, start moving onto your new edge in a J-turn (either
heel-side or toe-side).
5. Aim for good body position with your arms relaxed at your sides and knees tracked over your toes.
Your legs and ankles are doing the work while your upper body is calm.
6. Come to a stop and practice on the other side.
Tip: If you flatten the board too quickly, you may catch an edge. Don’t rush this part. If you’re nervous,
try this at the bottom of the run so you don’t gain too much speed.

OVERALL GENERAL TIPS TO REMEMBER

1. head, shoulders, hips, knees, feet, all go in the same direction.
2. Shoulders squared with your board.
3. Always look in the direction you want to go.
4. Bent knees
5. Back hand over board’s tail and front hand over board’s nose (tip)
6. When on your toes, push your hips forward.
7. When on your heels, push your hips backward like you’re standing in a chair sit like position.
8. Keep your back straight.
9. Always look uphill when you want to do a toe side turn.
10. Project yourself on the trajectory you want to go.
11. Your hips move naturally with shoulders.
12. Your shoulders and board work very close together. They follow each other path.
THE SNOWBOARD

LENGTH
The design of snowboards have evolved so much of the years that there are now specialty boards that are
designed to be shorter or longer narrow boards for certain styles of riding. Here are some basic rules of
thumb to follow:
• Short boards are easier to turn and spin for tricks but would be slower than an equal quality board that is
longer. You will also feel a little more chatter at high speeds.
• Longer boards are faster and more stable at high speeds but take more effort to turn. They also help float
in powder by distributing your weight across a longer platform.
What you will be doing with the board will give you some guidance in what length you should choose.
Often park and pipe riders will have shorter boards while big mountain free riders will go with a longer
board.

BOARD LENGTH BY WEIGHT

Your weight is the most important factor in determining board length. Having a board that cooperates
with your body weight will allow you to ride your best and not have to worry about losing control. If a
heavier rider gets a board that is too short, the board tends to get loose and less controllable at higher
speeds. A board that is too soft and short can also result in over-flexing and possible wipe-outs. It can go
the other way as well. A lighter rider who gets too long of a deck will have a tough time maneuvering and
flexing the board.
There are some cases when riding style comes into play where it is acceptable to size down your board for
a lighter setup and added mobility to help throw down those heavy ass tricks. Freestyle riders who spend
most of their time in the park or in the street tend to use sized-down boards for a more skate-inspired style
and feel.
If you’re on the heavier side, or looking to just ride powder, or both, scaling your board up a bit may also
be appropriate. A slightly longer board will help you keep that nose above the snow line, allowing you to
float across the fluff at faster speeds. A longer board will also provide a stiffer board response for added
stability.
Check out the chart below, it’s a guide to the average snowboard length required for a given rider’s
weight. It’s also always a good idea to read the manufacturer’s specifications for each deck because every
board is designed for specific functions and each model can vary greatly.
Rider Wight (lb) Rider Weight (kg) Snowboard Size (cm)
80 or less 36 or less 90-135
80-100 36-50 135-146
110-120 50-54 142-148
120-130 54-59 144-149
130-140 59-63 146-152
140-150 63-68 148-154
150-160 68-73 151-156
160-170 73-77 152-158
170-180 77-82 153-159
180-190 82-86 155-161
190-200 86-91 157-163
200-210 91-95 158-165
210 and up 95 and up 159-168

BOARD LENGTH BY HEIGHT

Height is probably the first measurement that comes to mind when thinking of choosing a snowboard
length, but it might not be the best sizing method on its own. Even so, people have been sizing
snowboards by height alone since the beginning and will probably continue to do so forever. There are
several methods of sizing snowboards by height that have developed over the years. We have provided
you with a few of the more common options below.
Using the traditional method, some believe a shorter board for your size range should come up between
your collar bone and your chin when the board is stood on end. These shorter length boards are good for
beginners and freestyle riders. A longer board could reach from your nose to just over your head. The
longer length boards are good for powder and high speed. These are very vague guidelines to live by and
not as accurate as some of the other methods available, but still a solid rule of thumb that many riders like
to implement into their board buying decision.
Some snowboarders like to use snowboard sizing calculators. Since most snowboarders ride a board that
is 85% to 92% of their own body height, plugging a couple numbers into a simple formula can tell you
the board length that might fit you best. The formula is as follows: Your Height (in inches) X 2.54 X 0.88
= Your Recommended Board Length. While this formula may seem like the absolute answer because it
involves numbers, math and a bit of homework, it doesn’t mean you’re stuck with the number you get as
a result. It is really meant to be used as a starting point when picking out a new deck.
So height is an important variable, but don’t forget to factor in your weight, riding style and the
manufacturer’s tech specs for each board as well. With that said, use the chart below as a guide to find the
average snowboard length required for a given rider’s height.
Rider Height (ft/in) Rider Height (cm) Snowboard Size (cm)
3’7’’ 109 90-105
4’1’’ 124 110-120
4’6’’ 137 115-130
4’10’’ 147 125-135
5’1’’ 155 130-140
5’3’’ 160 135-145
5’4’’ 163 140-150
5’5’’ 165 145-152
5’6’’ 168 148-153
5’7’’ 170 150-155
5’8’’ 173 152-155
5’9’’ 175 153-157
5’10’’ 178 154-159
5’11’’ 180 155-160
6’ 183 156-162
6’1’’ 185 157-163
6’2’’ 188 158-166
6’3’’ 191 159-167
6’4’’ 193 160-170

SNOWBOARD WIDTH
A key measurement in board sizing that often gets over-looked is the width of the board. The width of a
snowboard is usually measured at the board’s narrowest point (usually the center of the board) and should
correspond directly to your boot size. Typically, your snowboard boots should hang over the edges of
your board just slightly; with too much or too little you could have some trouble. A board’s waist width
is important for two big reasons: achieving maximum edge control and avoiding toe and heel drag.
If your snowboard is too narrow for your boot
size, a loss of edge control is certain to happen
by means of toe and heel drag. Toe and heel
drag is bad news, not only will this problem
slow you down – it could also cause you to
bail. Yes, minor toe and heel drag is
manageable, but if you’re setting up for a trick
and happen to snag your toes or heels on the
lip of a kicker or edge of a feature, it’s probably not going to end well. While width is important, getting a
wider board to eliminate the above issues is not always the best answer. Sometimes it is just a matter of
adjusting the angle of your bindings, trying bindings with the ability to raise your toes above the edge of
your board, or getting boots with the smallest footprint available.

WHAT SIZE SNOWBOARD DO I NEED?

This is no doubt the most commonly asked question in any shop. While there isn’t one perfect answer to
the question, once you know a few things about sizing snowboards, selecting your setup is simple.
First of all, it is important to consider your weight, height, and riding style when choosing a new board. It
is also recommended that you check out the manufacturer’s technical specifications for each board. And
don’t forget about your own personal preference, a key ingredient in the recipe for a perfect snowboard.

RIDING STYLE AND SNOWBOARD TYPES

Riding style and snowboard type are important variables in the snowboard sizing formula. Riding style
refers to the type of terrain you choose to ride. Some people like to ride it all and others like to focus on
just powder or only park riding. Since there are specific riding styles, there are also terrain-specific boards
to match. That is where the board type comes into play. The board type is directly related to your riding
style. Someone who rides powder probably shouldn’t use an edgeless street deck, they should use a deck
made for powder. That’s why it’s a good idea to know the difference between the types of boards
available.
To help you figure out what type of riding style you have and what board type you need, each of the
categories are described below. Remember these guidelines are just a starting point; boards can also come
in a combination of board types such as the all-mountain-freestyle models for a versatile ride with the
playfulness of a park board etc. Find a riding style and board type that best suits you and you’ll be one
step closer towards finding the perfect shred stick to fulfill your personal requirements.
• Al-Mountain - The most common riding style would have to be all-mountain. Most snowboarders are
versatile creatures of winter and explore all that the mountain has to offer. If you decide you want to take
a few laps in the park before winding your way through some woods runs, you might just be an all-
mountain maniac. For the curious adventurers of all that is shred, this is definitely your category.
The all-mountain board type is meant to accommodate all you can throw at it. Take it off jumps in the
park, have fun in the pipe, blaze groomers, and even get buried in a fresh dumping of powder. These
things do it all well. Snowboards that fall under the all-mountain board type can have various board
shapes and camber profiles. Find your favorite combination and get after it.
This board type is also a great category for beginners to start with. The all-mountain versatility will allow
you to ride anything you want until you find a type of riding that you do most.
• Freestyle - For the pipe jerks, park rats and back-alley street cats, your riding style falls into the
freestyle category. If you spend more time on tow-ropes and handrails than you do on the chairlift, your
riding style is certainly freestyle. Sure freestyle snowboarders can do it all, but their main focus is to
progress in the park, pipe and street and they do that with a freestyle oriented deck.
Freestyle snowboards are usually sized-down a bit from your average length deck and contain a bit more
flex. The shorter size allows you to throw the board around easier when performing tricks. And a softer
flex will allow you to tweak those tricks for proper style and steez. These boards are often built with a
badass base and some hardcore edges to withstand daily park-induced punishment. Freestyle boards have
a true twin shape and can have a range of camber styles such as flat, traditional, rocker, or a combination.
This is another board type often used by beginners because of the low weight and forgiving flex of the
board. The smaller board allows beginners to gain control of the board and its edges easier and quicker.
• Freeride - If you think snowboarding should be done solely on snow, you’re most likely a freeriding
fanatic. The freeride riding style category encompasses riding from blazing groomers to plowing through
a pile of pow in the backcountry. Pretty much, if there’s snow, it’s good-to-go. This riding style is
common among riders who are fortunate enough to have legit mountains to ride or happen to get a good
amount of snowfall in the area. Freeriding is snowboarding at its core and will always be a huge part of
the sport. It’s a whole other world on the backside of that mountain. You’re going to need the proper tool
for the job, and that is a Freeride specific board.
Freeride board types are often on the longer end of your board size range. That extra few centimeters
makes all the difference for staying atop pillows of pow. Freeride boards are most often directional
shaped boards but could also be a directional twin shape. These boards also have a stiffer flex for added
response and stability when bombing at high-speeds and slashing deep.
• Splitboarding - If you’re a true-spirited shredder, a hike-your-own-line kind of guy, then splitboarding
might be your riding style of choice. The war of skiing verses snowboarding is over. It’s time to utilize
the best of both sets of gear and have the most gratifying good times possible. Splitboards are for the
riders who won’t wait in line at the ticket booth or gondola. These people earn their turns by hiking up
every inch of what they descend. Anybody who says ski and board bums are lazy has never heard of split-
boarding.
Splitboards are the type of board for extreme freeriding. A board made from two separate pieces that
detach into a pair of skis is like a backcountry rider’s dream. Use the skis to climb up and through some
newly found terrain, then reattach them together and shred your line back down on a snowboard. It’s the
perfect design for adventurous types that have the determination to tackle untracked slopes.

BOARD SHAPES
The feel of a snowboard is heavy determined by the board’s shape. Board shapes will either benefit the
rider or hinder a riding depending on what type of terrain is being ridden. Freestyle boards designed for
jibs, jumps, and halfpipe are generally a True Twin shape, where as most all mountain, freeriding, and
powder boards have a Directional or Directional Twin / Twin Like shape.
• Directional - Most common among
freeride snowboards and sometimes found
on all-mountain boards, the directional
shape is a non-symmetrical construction
designed to be mostly ridden in one
direction. This means that they have a
specified nose and tail; each end may differ
in stiffness, shape and contact points.
Directional boards usually have a stiffer tail
than nose to create a stable ride when flying down mountains. Boards that feature this shape also tend to
have the binding inserts set back closer to the tail end of the board so your body weight is correctly
distributed for a fast and powerful ride through deep pow.
 • True Twin - Although this shape can be
found on just about all board types, true twin
dominates the freestyle scene. True twin, also
known as twin tip, means that the tip and tail
are identical. The symmetrical shape allows
park, pipe, and street riders to perform and
land technical switch tricks easier.
True twin boards open up a whole new window for freestyle snowboarders. With a nose and tail with the
exact same flex patterns and measurements, riders can have complete confidence in their board when
riding switch.
• Directional Twin - Commonly found in
all-mountain boards, the directional twin
shape is a great all-around board choice.
Directional twin consists of a nose and tail
that are different in construction. Although
the tip and tail might not be exactly the
same, riders may ride switch in the park or
pipe without noticing any negative effects.
Directional twin boards often have a
slightly longer nose than tail and could also have a softer nose than tail or a combination of the two. The
added length to the nose gives you an edge when riding powder and a stiffer tail will create more stability
when riding at higher speed.

SHAPE
Directional shape - Directional snowboards are
designed to ride best in one direction. A typical
directional shape includes a distinct nose and
tail, and a progressively deeper sidecut radius
towards the tail. The slightly larger nose
improves float and helps the board power over and through variable snow. A progressively
deeper sidecut helps “ease” the rider into a more forgiving turn while the deeper sidecut towards
the tail provides energy and “snap” to help propel the board into the next turn.
Because directional snowboards are optimized to ride in one direction with the rider’s preferred
front foot forward, they are not well-suited for more serious freestyle riding styles where the
ability to ride, initiate tricks, and land in either direction is critical. On the other hand, for the
more all-mountain, freeride, or powder-oriented rider who is perfectly happy leading with his
preferred front foot virtually all the time, a directional board is the right choice.
True Twin shape - If directional snowboards
are on one end of the board shape spectrum,
twins are on the other. Twins are completely
symmetrical, with identically shaped nose and
tails and a perfectly circular sidecut radius
deepest at the middle of the board’s length. A twin snowboard’s symmetry and balance is ideal
for the true freestyle snowboarder who needs the board to perform the same in either direction.
Directional twin shape - If “directional” is the
opposite of “twin”, what is a “directional twin”?
That’s a great question and it highlights the fact
that board shape is not the only design
ingredient that determines how a board rides in
either direction. As with the various board profile hybrids that combine rocker with camber,
directional twins are an attempt to capture the benefits of different design concepts into the same
board, making it suitable for a wider range of ride styles and terrain. For example, a directional
twin may have a symmetrical shape but an asymmetrical flex (stiffer flex toward the tail) or have
a slightly directional shape with symmetrical, twin flex. Generally speaking, directional twins are
for the all-mountain rider who spends a good chunk of the day riding switch (that is, in the
opposite direction of her preferred front foot).

SNOWBOARD PROFILES
Snowboard Profile Shape refers to the base shape of an un-weighted board on a flat surface. Looking at
the board from the side and you can roughly decipher what Profile Shape a board has. There are several
types of Profile Shapes, all with their own purpose to help improve a rider’s performance. The
information below is to be used as reference to help you decide what Profile Shape is the best fit for your
riding style.
• Camber Profile - Camber is the tried &
true standard for a snowboard profile. It is
still the most popular camber style and
will probably be around forever. A
traditionally cambered board has a smooth
arch underneath the middle of the board
that comes down and touches the ground
near the tip and tail when no additional
weight is applied. When a rider straps into a cambered board, the board flattens out on the snow and
creates an evenly applied pressure to the edges. This camber profile provides explosive pop and response
and is good for all types of riding.
• Rocker/Reverse Camber Profile - The
Rocker/reverse camber profile has become
extremely popular among freestyle riders
and powder-hounds alike. This profile is
the exact opposite of a traditional camber.
It consists of a single central contact point
that when weighted, flexes to create less
edge contact on the tip and tail for easy
pivoting action and all-day playfulness. The rocker is also a more forgiving camber style when landing
spins, jibs and other tricks. Less edge contact means less hang up on the lips and landings. Freeride
snowboarders like the rocker profile because they create a surfy feel in powder, allowing you to really
slash and put up a wall of white like you’re riding the curl.
• Flat Profile - A Flat board profile is
another great option for progressive riders.
The completely flat shape is implemented
from near the tip to near the tail and is a
versatile design. This profile has the
forgiveness and butter-like characteristics
of a rocker board, but with precise edging
capabilities similar to that of a traditional
camber. This camber profile is ideal for freestyle riding and is usually found in the park or street. The flat
camber profile may not be the fastest board design, but it isn’t made to be raced, it’s meant to deliver a
skate-inspired feel for a fun time dropping hammers.
• Hybrid Profile - There are a variety of
board profile combinations out there.
Snowboard companies are doing more and
more experimentation with the
construction of modern snowboards.
There are profiles that consist of a
rocker/camber/rocker combo, some with
rocker/flat/rocker, and some with
camber/rocker/camber variations. Each
company has their own name for their
snowboard profile combinations and each
profile has its own specific purpose and
function. Make sure to check out the
manufacturers technical specifications for
more details. And even though these
camber profiles might seem a little funky,
don’t be afraid to try a new design. Boards that feature hybrid cambers are still sized the same so don’t let
that stop you. You never know, you could find a new favorite.
• Powder Camber/Rocker/Flat
Combination Profile - Riding powder is a
big deal, especially if you don’t get to do
it often. That’s why riding a board
specifically designed for powder will
make the experience so much better. Most
Powder Combination Profile Shapes have
a large scooping nose (bigger than Rocker
Profile Shapes) that starts after the outside
of the front insert packs, after that the
board’s center and tail can have different
shapes.
The most common Powder Profile Shape is the Powder Camber combination. Powder Camber Profile
Shaped boards offer a great ride both in and out of powder. In powder the cambered mid section and tail
can be pressed to lift the nose of the board even higher than it already is. Powder Rocker combination
board are great for doing powder butters and even riding switch in powder. Riding fast is a crucial
component of a successful powder run,
and Powder Flat combination board tend
to float through snow while keeping the
nose afloat and sinking the tail for epic
slashes.
• 3-Stage Profile - Though some consider
3-Stage Profile Shapes to be considered a
Hybrid Camber / Rocker Combination,
they are far from it. 3-Stage is made up of
3 distinct flat zone; one under the feet, one
on the nose, and one on the tail outside of
the binding insert packs. The flat zones
on the nose and tail are andled up from 3°
to 12°.
Most 3-Stage boards fit within the all-mountain freestyle and freestyle genre of snowboards. The flat
stable zone in between the feet offers stability while carving or setting up for tricks, and the flat zones on
the nose and tail offer a great ollie platform for ollieing off of lips and locking in presses.

SIDECUT AND EFFECTIVE EDGE

The side is the curve of the snowboards edges. It used to be a simple radial sidecut where the arc remains
consistent. There are reasons for each:
• Deeper - Boards have a narrower waist making them
turn more quickly and easier.
• Shallow - The wider waist allows them to float better
and power through the chunky stuff.

Brands such as Lib Tech has started making boards with Magna Traction, Burton does pressure
distribution edges, and other brands have their own proprietary sidecut technologies. This can make the
number a little more confusing. Essentially these technologies are designed to create more contact boards
and help the board hold an edge better. While the term sidecut is thrown around a lot it not necessarily the
most important part in choosing a board.
Think of sidecut as your ability to turn at a
given rate by simply applying your
board’s edge into the snow. A board’s
sidecut radius is the measurement your
edge would create if it extended out into a
full circle. Every board has a precisely
calculated sidecut radius designed for a
specific purpose and function.
• Deeper sidecuts, often depicted in a lower number of centimeters, are present on boards with narrower
waists and have the ability to turn quicker and sharper with less effort. Deep sidecuts are good for
beginners and park riders alike.
• Mellow sidecuts, a measurement with a higher amount of centimeters, are found on boards with wider
waists such as some freeride boards. While sacrificing the ability to turn on a dime, boards with a shallow
sidecut float easier on powder due to the added amount of surface area. These boards will also handle
better at higher speeds and in tougher terrain.
Radial Sidecut - Radial Sidecuts are the
bread and butter of the sidecut world.
They’ve been tried and tested through
decades of riding. The entrances and exits
of turns have the exact same arc, meaning
if the Radial Sidecut is centered on the
board a carve could become a perfect circle with enough speed.
Progressive Sidecut - If a board was built
with the same feel as a Ferrari it would
have a Progressive Sidecut. The egg
shaped arc makes the transition into turns
smooth and the exit out of turns
aggressive. Imagine accelerating out of
turns; that’s what riding a snowboard with a Progressive Sidecut feels like.
Asymmetrical Sidecut - A toeside turn is more manageable than heelside turn because the toeside edge
tilts with foot/ankles flexion and extension movements. Basically it’s easier to control a toeside turn over
a heelside turn, and that’s why Asymmetrical Sidecuts were developed; that in part with body’s Y axis
asymmetrical shape. With a smaller heelside edge sidecut radius a rider has the ability to make quicker
more agile turns that mimic that of a toeside turn.
Multiple Sidecuts - Multiple Sidecut boards are the SUVs of the snowboard world. Larger sidecuts on
the nose & tail provide large arcing turns and smaller sidecuts in the center of a board’s edge provide
smaller arcing turns. The combination of radius’ in a Multiple Sidecut board benefit the rider at high and
low speeds.
Effective Edge - Your effective edge is the length of base/edge that makes contact while the board is flat
on the snow (not tilted on edge). To make it easy, the very tip and tail of your board is really the only part
of your base/edge that is non-effective. The rest of your base/edge is utilized, but some parts more than
others.
Contact Points - A cambered shaped board’s contact points are usually 3″-4″ inches long and can be
found towards the tip and tail on either side of your board. Rockered shaped boards have contact points
near the middle of the snowboard, and Hybrid Camber/Rocker Combination boards can have contact
points on multiple places along a boards effective edge. Contact points are in connection with the snow
more than the rest of your effective edge. If there is one part of your edging that you should maintain
regularly, it’s your contact points.
Edges - Edges should be sharpened routinely to maintain a precise edge hold. This is especially important
if you’re ripping groomed runs or getting vertical in the pipe. If you’re looking to only ride the park or in
street setups, dulling your edges is also commonly practiced. Dulling your edges for freestyle riding
purposes gives the board less chance to hang up on the surface you happen to be jibbing but will be more
difficult to turn on hard groomers or ice.

SNOWBOARD CONSTRUCTION

Each manufacturer has slightly different methods to making snowboards, but the basic structure stays
very similar. The basic structure of a snowboard with a wood core is shown in the graphic below, with
each part explained in detail further down the page.

SIDEWALL CONSTRUCTION
The sidewall is the area along the edge of a snowboard, and will generally be one of 3 types of
construction, depending on how the ends of the different layers have been finished.
ABS Sidewall/Sandwich Construction - Where each layer of the snowboard is laid flat and
an ABS sidewall is put in at the sides to protect the core. This design is good for freeriding
as it transmits pressure to the edges well.
Cap Construction - The fibreglass layer and topsheet are brought down over the core to
seal the edge. This design makes the board a bit lighter and gives a bit of extra snap, but it is
not found on snowboards so often anymore.
Half-Cap Construction - A hybrid of the other 2 constructions where the fibreglass layer
comes down around the core, and the topsheet comes part way around to join a sidewall.
This design provides good pressure transmission to the edges and is reasonably light and
snappy. It is normally found on higher end snowboards.
Quite often a hybrid-cap construction will be found on boards, with the board having an ABS sidewall
along the middle of the board, turning into a cap construction at the tips.
The sidewalls that are added are generally made of ABS plastic, but often have layers of rubber
underneath it to help absorb shocks,and can also have layers of other materials like aluminium, and
bamboo.
EDGES
Snowboard edges are made of steel or stainless steel and are held into the board with T-
shaped inserts which are built into them. There are 2 types of edges, full wrap and
partial wrap. Full wrap edges go all the way around the snowboard and join at one end,
this is the strongest type of edge for a snowboard, although it can be hard to repair if damaged badly.
Partial wrap edges are where the edges just run along the sides of the board where they will make contact
with the snow. Because there is less metal used this makes a snowboard marginally lighter, but because
the continuous shape is lost the edges are not always as strong and it can leave the tips of the snowboard
more prone to damage.

TOP SHEET
The topsheet is the part of the snowboard that you see on the top, this is where the
graphics are, and is the protection for the inner parts of the snowboard. Topsheets can be
made of many different materials including nylon, wood, fibreglass, plastic and
composites.
There are 2 main ways in which the graphics can be put on a snowboard:
• Encapsulation - Where the graphics are printed onto paper, cloth or a similar material and put under a
clear top sheet, or clear lacquer on the topsheet. This leaves the graphics under or inside the topsheet, but
able to be seen through the topsheet material. The materials and inks used are chosen carefully, otherwise
they can affect the bond between the topsheet and the fibreglass underneath.
• Sublimation - Where the graphics are fused into the materials that make the topsheet using special inks,
suitable plastics and heat. This leaves the graphics as part of the topsheet, going all the way through the
material so that even if it gets scratched the graphics will still be there.

BASE MATERIALS
Bases are made of P-Tex a polyethylene plastic. Most base materials will be followed by
a number (i.e. sintered 2000). This number refers to the molecular weight of the
polyethylene. The higher the number means the higher the molecular weight, which
indicates a better and more durable base.
There are 2 types of base, extruded and sintered:
• Extruded - This is where the base material is melted and then cut into shape. Extruded bases are cheap
to make and low maintenance, but are less durable, and slower. They are smoother and less porous so
don't absorb so much wax, but if the base is left unwaxed overall performance is not effected so much.
• Sintered - This is where the base material is ground into powder, heated, pressed and sliced into shape.
Sintered bases are more expensive to make, but are more durable and faster. They are very porous and
absorb wax well, but will lose performance if they are left unwaxed, and are more difficult to repair.
Sintered bases can also have graphite and other materials in them, this makes them even faster and more
durable. Graphite is added because it is conductive. As a snowboard slides static charges form between
the base and the snow which increases friction. The graphite helps dissipate the static charges reducing
friction and making the base faster. Graphite bases can also hold even more wax than normal sintered
bases, which again makes them even faster.
The graphics that are put onto bases are generally put there by either printing the graphic inside the
snowboard, with a clear base to see through to them, or by having a base made of pieces of different
colour P-Tex that are precisely cut by machine to fit together.
FIBREGLASS LAYERS
The fibreglass layers are there to help increase board stiffness and stop the board from
deforming. The glassfibre sheets are impregnated with resin, which holds the them
together and gives them their strength. There are 2 general ways in which the fibreglass
is structured in the layers surrounding the core:
• Bi-axial wrap - In bi-axial wraps the
glassfibre strands are weaved together at 90°
to each other, this produces a lightweight,
dependable and forgiving layer.
• Tri-axial wrap - In tri-axial wraps the
glassfibre strands are weaved at +45°, 0° and -
45°, this again produces a lightweight,
dependable and forgiving layer but with
increased torsional stiffness and response
compare to the bi-axial wrap.

THE CORE
The core is the central structure of a snowboard, which determines a lot of a
snowboard's characteristics. This is where the main strength of a snowboard lies, and is
seen as the part the snowboard to which everything else is attached to.

CORE MATERIALS
Most snowboard cores are made of strips of laminated hardwood like beech, birch, aspen, bamboo, or a
mixture of them. Wood is used as it gives a lively feel with good vibration damping, it keeps its shape
well, and has less resonance than foam or plastic.
Many other materials can also be used for or in the core though, including:
• Carbon - Light, lively, strong and very good under compression, but very expensive.
• Kevlar - Strong, reasonably light, good under tension, and a good dampener.
• Aluminium Honeycomb - Very light and strong, but is expensive and has reduced damping capabilities.
• Foam - Not used as the main material so often anymore as boards tended to lose their camber quickly
and were a bit soft, lacking performance. Foam is often found in low stress areas of some cores to save
weight.

CORE CONSTRUCTION
Wood cores are made of strips of laminated hardwood that run along the length of the board. The strips
used can be made of different woods, arranged in different patterns, and have areas that use other
materials like foam. This is done to give different strengths, flexes, and weights to different areas of a
snowboard, creating different properties and characteristics. The laminated wood strips are glued together
and then precisely CNC machine cut into shape. Carbon fibre rods, and many other materials/structures
are often stuck to the core as well to further enhance the desired board characteristics.

METAL INSERTS
Metal inserts are stainless steel inserts that are built into a snowboard for the binding holes. Obviously as
all the forces a rider puts into a snowboard are going to be transmitted through these inserts, they are very
well attached to the snowboard's core.

RESIN
All the individual parts of the snowboard are held together with resin. It is very important that the type
and amount of resin are correct as this can effect the strength, weight and flex of a snowboard.

WAX
Wax is applied to the base of snowboards so that they create less friction with the snow and can slide
faster. The most important features of a wax are; to lower the friction coefficient between the base and the
snow as much as possible, to be hard enough that snow crystals will not penetrate the wax and make the
base grip the snow, and to repel water.

TYPES OF WAX
There are 2 types of wax, hydrocarbon waxes and fluorocarbon waxes. Hydrocarbon waxes are paraffin
based, and are the most common type of wax used. They penetrate the deepest into P-Tex bases and last
the longest when applied with a hot waxing iron. Fluorocarbon waxes differ from hydrocarbon waxes in
that they are made of carbon molecules with negatively charged fluorine atoms, as a pose to the neutrally
charged hydrogen atoms in hydrocarbon waxes. This repels water and dirt better, reducing friction and
making fluorocarbon waxes faster. Fluorocarbon waxes are generally only used by racers though, as they
are expensive, and require more preparation to use. Normally a snowboard is waxed with a hydrocarbon
wax first, and then if a fluorocarbon wax is being used it is applied on top.

TEMPERATURE WAXES
Waxes are designed for use with different temperatures of snow. There are many all temperature waxes
intended to work in all conditions, but really they are just mid range temperature waxes. The main
difference between the waxes for different temperatures is how hard they are. A harder wax creates more
friction, so the softest wax possible wants to be used, but the wax still needs to be harder than the snow to
stop the base from gripping and increasing friction. Colder snow is harder and requires a harder wax,
whereas warmer snow is softer and wetter, and requires a softer wax with more hydrophobic additives to
repel water better.
For the average snowboarder an all temperature hydrocarbon wax does the job perfectly well, and will
give them a reasonably fast ride in all conditions.

ANTI-STATIC PROPERTIES
When a base slides along the snow, static charges are created which increase friction. Having a graphite
additive in the wax helps conduct these charges, producing better anti-static properties. This creates less
static charges between the base and the snow, and therefore reduces the friction due to static electricity.
FLEX
THE FLEX RATINGS
Boards are usually rated on a 1-10 scale for the flex or
stiffness of the board. Each style has its own advantages and
brands have their own scale. A 3 in one brand does not
necessarily equal a 3 in a different brand. Here are some
reasons you would seek out one or the other:
• soft - These boards are more forgiving and easier to turn.
This makes them great for beginners, park riders, or some
who wants a board that can be easily manipulated. This will
not be as stable at speed or have as much pop as stiffer boards.
• stiff - A stiff board will be very stable at high speeds and
usually have more pop to them. These are good for riders who
like going fast and want the stability a stiffer board provides.
They will be less forgiving and take a little more effort to turn.
There isn’t a generalized standard across snowboarding
manufacturers so there will be some difference in what one
manufacturer considers “medium” compared to another. This
is partly because there isn't any efforts to create a generalized
system and partly because it's difficult to do so, given
differing torsional flex and different flex in different areas of
the snowboard (tip, tail, between the bindings etc).

Usually flex is described in one of two ways (or both) - on a scale of 1 to 10 or on a scale of soft to stiff.
If rated out of 10 then:
- 1-2 translates to soft flex
- 3-4 means medium-to-soft flex
- 5-6 means medium flex
- 7-8 means medium-to-stiff flex; and
- 9-10 means stiff flex
I have seen other scales that translate more like this:
- 1-2 is soft
- 3-5 is medium
- 6-8 is stiff; and
- 9-10 is very stiff
Essentially they are saying the same thing but with different terms (and different number ranges) so it
pays to double check the scale that the retailer or manufacturer is using before deciding.
For example one retailer may use the second scale above and rate the board as medium and in reality it
has a flex of 3 out of 10 - that same board would be rated as medium-to-soft on the other rating - so make
sure you know the scales being used.
FLEX RATING EXPLAINED
There are broadly two different types of flex in a snowboard - longitudinal and torsional.
• Longitudinal flex - is the flexibility of the snowboard length ways (from nose to tail). This is what is
typically referred to when talking about the flex of a board.
Longitudinal flex can be progressive or continuous. Progressive flex means that the flex in the center of
the board, the nose and the tail could all have different levels of flex.
The following are common, but this isn't exhaustive:
- Stiffer flex between the bindings with softer flex tip and tail
- Softer flex between the bindings with stiffer flex tip and tail
- Stiffer flex in the tail, and softer flex in the nose (usually not the other way around though)
- Consistent flex between the bindings and in the tip and tail
This all depends on what the snowboard is designed to do.
• Torsional flex - is the flex width ways (from edge to edge). This is generally not considered by people
when deciding on their snowboard purchase and typically there isn't a rating given out by manufacturers
for this. Whether or not it should be considered is a debate for another post (but feel free to leave a
comment below if you have any thoughts on this).
There may be the argument that Torsional flex deserves more attention as a softer torsional flex will help
with sharper turns and getting spins around a stiffer torsional flex will increase edge-hold (so it does have
an effect)

WHAT FLEX FOR WHAT STYLE

• Freestyle/Park
If you are a freestyle rider who likes to ride in the park or on the streets, then you usually want a softer
flexing board. This increases maneuverability for spins, allows for easier butters/presses, other ground
tricks, and easier/better on jibs
Flex is typically the same in the nose as it is in the tail. This is so that the board feels the same or similar
riding in either direction so that you can ride, land, takeoff, press etc in either direction with ease.
Street (aka Urban/Jib/Noodles) boards tend to be very soft, 1-2 out of 10 and will perform very well with
butters - but they won’t take you very far from the park and may not be suitable for bigger features.
For a more rounded freestyle board that you can take on bigger jumps, and you can still ride around the
resort, then a flex more like 3-6 out of 10 is more appropriate - the softer side for those who are looking to
do more buttering, jibbing and small jumps, and for those who are new to freestyle/park riding. And the
stiffer side for those looking to get bigger air, are more experienced park riders, who favor the jump line
over the jib line - and for those who also want to ride the pipe.
• Freeride
If you are a freerider who loves to ride the backcountry, bomb steeps at speed and generally ride
aggressively and love to carve, then a stiffer flex will serve you much better than a soft flex.
A stiffer flex will give you greater stability and edge-hold, particularly at high speeds.
The flex in the nose is often softer than it is in the tail. The softer nose helps to keep it afloat in powder
and the stiffer tail helps with edge-hold and really ripping carves.
Freeride boards will typically have anything from a 7 to 10 flex (depending on personal preference
bodyweight etc). You can get some that are a little softer, but the majority are in that flex range.
• All-Mountain
All-Mountain riders who like to do a bit of everything will naturally look for something in between.
A majority of all mountain boards will be between 4 and 7 out of 10. Though beginner all-mountain and
all-mountain-freestyle boards can be a lot softer too.
All-mountain boards are often either leaning towards freeride or freestyle and can be more or less
aggressive, depending on a number of factors. Stiffer all-mountain boards tend to be more aggressive -
though other factors of the snowboard (e.g. camber profile, sidecut etc) also contribute to how aggressive
a snowboard feels.

FLEX AND ABILITY

As well as style, ability affects your flex decision too.
A softer flexing board is easier to control and to maneuver, particularly at slow speeds and is more
forgiving of mistakes. It makes turn initiations physically easier too. Therefore a softer flex is typically
better for beginners.
Depending on whether you're a high end beginner, a beginner-beginner, your body weight and how soon
you are willing to upgrade will depend on if you go more for a really soft flex or more of a medium-soft
(3 or 4 out of 10) flex.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I TUNE MY BOARD?

Whether you are a fresh-legged beginner or a shred-veteran, board tuning is important when trying to
keep your board in good shape. Tuning a snowboard also helps the board perform its best by increasing
edging capabilities and should be done regularly.
It is also common for freestyle riders to regularly detune or dull their edges to get rid of potential hang-
ups such as cuts and burs. This is ideal for riders who spend a lot of time jibbing.
As a guideline, a snowboard should be tuned at least once a year by a professional in a shop. If you know
how to tune your board yourself, that’s great too.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I WAX MY BOARD?

Snowboard waxing can be done regularly to ensure the best performance on the snow. A new coat of wax
will help give your board a better glide, making it faster and more responsive.
Waxing should be done anytime the base of your board starts to look faded or dry. If you can see some
faint white lines or patches, especially near the edges of your board, it’s time for a wax.
There are several kinds of wax, all with their own abilities. Some waxes are made for colder weather,
some for warm. There is also all-temperature wax to accommodate most conditions.
Most shops offer board waxes for relatively cheap, but you can also wax your board yourself.
BOOTS
Snowboard boots should be your first acquisition
when assembling a board-boots-binding setup. You
want boots to fit comfortably so you can move on
to bindings and create a great match. Boots, more
than a board, are where to splurge a little if you can
afford to do so to ensure you get the right fit.
The snowboard boots you select should be well
matched to your usual riding style and the snow
conditions you most frequently encounter.
Boot variables:
• Boot flex and riding style
• Lacing systems
• Liners and footbeds
• Comfort and fit

BOOT SIZING
Choosing the right size boots is crucial.
Boots may be one of the most important,
if not the most important, things you
decide to add to your arsenal. First off, if
you’re not comfortable out on the hill, you
won’t have as much fun and that is
unacceptable by any true snowboarder’s
standards. Second of all, in extreme cases,
the incorrect size boot can cause serious personal injury.
Snowboard boot sizing is very similar to street shoe sizing except it’s much more important to get right.
Your feet should be comfortably snug within your boots without having any pinches or pokes that can
cause poor circulation. Your toes should be able to wiggle slightly but not be able to move forward or
backward. Buying boots that are a little snug is a good idea because boots tend to loosen with time and
can open up some space after a while. Too much space, however, is a bad thing and will have negative
effects on your heel hold.
One thing to watch out for is heel lift. If you lace up your boots, strap into your bindings and lean forward
as if you were initiating a toe-edge turn and your heel comes off the bottom of your boot, you need a
smaller or tighter boot. Heel lift is usually the result of an oversized boot and can cause major problems
when trying to turn, land or jib. In extreme cases, a boot with significant heel lift could lack enough
support to protect your feet and ankles from serious injury. You know what they say about people with
big boots, right? Nothing! So make sure you stick to the size that fits correctly to avoid injury.
Refer the sizing chart below to find a good starting point towards purchasing new snowboard boots.
Remember that all manufacturers and boot models vary and each one has its own fit.
Mondo (cm) Men (US) Women (US) Europe UK
15 8 (youth) - 25 7
16 9 (youth) - 26 8
17 10 (youth) - 27 9
17.5 11 (youth) - 28 10
18.5 12 (youth) - 29 11
19.5 13 (youth) - 30.5 12
20 13.5 (youth) - 31 13
20.5 1 - 32 13.5
21 2 - 33 1
21.5 3 - 34 2
22 4 5 35 3
22.5 4.5 5.5 36 3.5
23 5 6 36.5 4
23.5 5.5 6.5 37 4.5
24 6 7 38 5
24.5 6.5 7 38.5 5.5
25 7 8 39 6
25.5 7.5 8.5 40 6.5
26 8 9 40.5 7
26.5 8.5 9.5 41 7.5
27 9 10 42 8
27.5 9.5 10.5 42.5 8.5
28 10 11 43 9
28.5 10.5 11.5 44 9.5
29 11 12 44.5 10
29.5 11.5 - 45 10.5
30 12 - 45.5 11
30.5 12.5 - 46 11.5
31 13 - 47 12
31.5 13.5 - 47.5 12.5
32 14 - 48 13
32.5 14.5 - 48.5 13.5
33 15 - 49 14
33.5 15.5 - 50 14.5
34 16 - 51 15
HOW ARE MY SNOWBOARD BOOTS SUPPOSED TO FEEL?
- Your toes should graze the end of the liner although you should be able to move them slightly. As you
start to ride in the boot they will pack out about half a size leaving the liner just off your toes – a close but
comfortable fit.
- Your heel should not lift up when you rock onto your toes. This is important if you want to be able to
quickly and precisely transfer from heel to toe edge.
- The boot shouldn’t pinch at the sides but your foot should not raise up off the insole.
- There should be no pressure points.

WHAT SIZE SNOWBOARD BOOTS DO I NEED?

We hopefully answered this question already but make no mistake, boots might be the most important
element of your shred setup. The right pair of boots can make all the difference, but what designates the
right pair of boots can be different for everyone. A couple things to keep in mind when choosing a boot
are fit and flex.
Finding a boot that fits and works well for you is not hard. Snowboard boots are sized in the same
method as street shoes. While boot sizes can vary from brand to brand, using your street shoe size is a
good place to start. A key thing to watch out for is heel-lift. If you’re laced up and lean forward, make
sure your heel does not leave the bottom of your inner sole. Flexibility is another factor in finding the
right boots. Stiffer boots are good for freeriding and softer boots are often used in freestyle riding.

SIZE TIPS
- If you're a size nine in your trainers, it doesn't necessarily mean you're a nine in a snowboard boot. The
proper fitting pair can easily be a full size up or down.
- Almost all snowboard brands will fit differently - even different models of the same brand can change in
width or flex.
- Make time to try on lots of boots - don't rush yourself and ask as many questions as you want (this will
help you and the boot fitter understand what type of boot you want).

BOOT FLEX
As with all snowboard gear, boots should match your riding style. There are a variety of boots available
with a range of flex to accommodate all riding styles and terrain choices. Below are some guidelines to
choosing a boot with the proper flex for your riding habits.
A boot with a softer flex is ideal for freestyle riding. All-mountain riders can also benefit from the
versatility of a softer boot. The softer flexing boots provide more forgiveness and maneuverability when
stomping landings and add tweakability when buttering boxes or jibbing handrails.
A stiff boot is perfect for freeride snowboarders that like to tear apart the backcountry or even all-
mountain riders looking for a super responsive boot with tons of support. The rigid design of these stiffer
boots generates an extreme amount of edge power for destructive turns and completely accurate control.
Finding snowboard boots with a flex that matches your riding style can make a big difference. Snowboard
boots are typically categorized as soft, medium or stiff.
 Soft flex: Soft-flexing snowboard boots
have comfortable, resilient materials that
are easy on your feet for long days on the
mountain.
Medium flex: These boots provide a
balance of mobility and support for all-
mountain performance and comfort.
Stiff flex: Stiff-flexing boots have
maximum support for edge power and
control at high speeds and in tough
conditions.

RIDING STYLE
Beginner - A stiff boot requires greater precision to work effectively. A soft boot has a bigger range of
tolerance in which a movement will result in the board turning without catching an edge. This leeway lets
novices learn to control their board without being punished for every slight mistake.
Park/Freestyle - A soft board that is intended to butter and flex on rails will ride better if it is ridden with
soft boots. This way the boot can bend in sync with the board for a consistent smooth feel. You have
more movement in the ankle letting you tweak grabs and presses. Landing jumps the boot gives you a
slight degree of leniency as the foot moves a little bit before the binding does.
Another thing to look out for is air pockets and impact dampening soles to lessen the force of impacts.
All-Mountain - If you are going to be riding a variety of terrain you will want a boot that is stiff enough
to react at high speeds on the piste without being too hard not to flex on the odd park run. This best-of-
both-worlds boot is a popular choice for intermediates and those who want a bit more performance.
Freeride - If you are going to be riding a variety of terrain you will want a boot that is stiff enough to
react at high speeds on the piste without being too hard not to flex on the odd park run. This best-of-both-
worlds boot is a popular choice for intermediates and those who want a bit more performance.
MATCH FLEX WITH RIDING STYLE
Boot flex roughly aligns with different types of snowboarding. For example, soft-flexing boots are often
used for freestyle/park riding and beginner all-mountain riding. Personal preference on comfort and fit are
considerations, too.
Riding Type Boot Flex
All-mountain (most riders) Soft/medium
All-mountain (racers) Stiff
Freeride Stiff
Freestyle Soft
LACING SYSTEM

• Laces/Traditional - The tried and true, long-time veteran of the snowboard boot game, the traditional
lacing system will live forever. People love the simplicity of standard laces because it is what they are
comfortable and familiar with. Traditional lacing systems are also popular because the lack of fancy
components that could possibly become worn or break. Just loop, swoop, and pull and you’re ready to
ride. The laces for these boots are also very easily replaces as they are just normal boot laces.
Simple and a classic for a reason, shoelaces everyone knows how to tie shoelaces and how to customise
them to your foot. Whilst being slightly cheaper than other lacing methods and easy to replace they can
become loose over a day's riding. A way to minimise loosening is to use wax coated shoelaces.
Pros:
- Tightness of the fit can be customized by hand.
- Inexpensive.
- Replacement laces are easy to locate.
Cons:
- Difficult to tie while wearing gloves or when bare hands are cold.
- Vulnerable to unintended loosening.
• Quick-Pull - Quick-pull lacing systems are incorporated into many common boot designs. It’s just a
quick tug on a couple of sets of strings and your laced-up and ready to ride. Most quick-pull designs also
allow you to tighten the upper and lower sections of your boots separately to get a perfectly customized
fit. Many companies offer a version of the quick-pull lacing system because it is super quick and
convenient and can also be done with gloves on.
This lacing system is quick, convenient and easy to use. Glove-friendly pulleys are attached to a nylon
cord which pulls the boot together. One pulley tightens the forefront area whilst the other secures the shin
zone.
Pros:
- Fast and convenient.
- Can be tightened while wearing gloves.
- Lace-pulls usually tuck away neatly.
- Several systems offer independent high-low (ankle-foot) laces for a customizable fit.
Cons:
- May initially appear complex.
- A few riders find they cannot exert enough pull to tighten laces as snugly as they would like.
- Points (usually eyelets) where laces attach to boots can sometimes create pressure points.
- Somewhat vulnerable to unintended loosening.
- If lace wears out or breaks, it could prematurely end a day of riding.
• BOA System - Like a constricting snake squeezing its prey, the BOA lacing system tightens two steel
cables woven throughout the boot to create a secure and snug fit around your foot. The BOA lacing
system is so fast and easy, you will be on your board throwing together a line in the park in no time. With
a simple twist of a dial, or sometimes two, you can be ready to ride all day in an instant. The BOA system
can be adjusted at any time while riding and can even be done with gloves on. While this lacing system
offers reliability and fine-tuning, the BOA system does tend to cost slightly more.
Simple to use, you pop-out then twist a circular dial to contract steel cables. The cables follow a
traditional shoelace pattern closing up the boot. High-end boots have two Boa dials with one in control of
the bottom cables and the other looking after the top – customising the fit to your boot. This lacing system
is good at staying secure all day long although it can add to the cost of the boot.
Pros:
- Fast, easy and convenient.
- Usually requires just one hand.
- Simple to modify during a pause in activity.
- Can be adjusted while wearing gloves.
- Offers a precise, fine-tuned fit.
- Excels at shedding grit and slop.
Cons:
- One-dial system applies uniform snugness throughout foot, so upper and lower foot regions cannot be
independently customized.
- Points where strands attach to boots can sometimes create pressure points.
- If a strand breaks, it could prematurely end a day of riding.
- Adds to boots' overall cost.
BOOT LINER

• Non-mouldable
Over time the boots will eventually mould to your feet but this will take a long time and the liner will
never truly fit properly. Very few snowboard boot still have this type of liner.
• Thermoformable
These liners mould to your feet, ankles and calves using the natural heat form your body. The more you
use the boots, the better the fit will become.
• Heat mouldable
Placed in a special heated oven then left to cool around your feet, heat mouldable liners mould to your
unique foot shape. This provides out-of-the-box comfort, stops heel lift and helps direct energy from the
boot into the binding.

INSOLES

• Custom Insoles
Fully custom insoles negate any slight imperfections in the alignment of your feet, ankles and knees. This
set-up supports your feet and body reducing the risk of injury and lessening fatigue.
• Trim-to-fit Insoles
Much better than most insoles that come with snowboard boots you can select the insole that best suits
your feet.

COMPATIBILITY
Something that most people think too little about is setup compatibility throughout your boots, bindings
and board. If your boots don’t fit into your bindings, that’s not good. If your boots hang too far over your
board, that is also not good. This is why some believe that buying the perfect boot should be done before
purchasing any other new snowboard gear. You can then take the measurements of your boot into
consideration when choosing the rest of your gear, ensuring a quality relationship between you, your
boots, board and bindings.

BINDINGS
Often overlooked but vitally important to your snowboard set-up snowboard bindings deliver power from
your body, legs and feet into the board. A good pair of bindings will allow you to control your board with
ease, keep your feet comfortable and absorb vibrations.
It's important to think about what style of snowboarding you prefer, the terrain you will be tackling and
the board/boots you currently use when choosing bindings.
• Highback - This part of the binding
supports the back of the boot providing a
stable platform. There are several different
style of highbacks:
- Wingback - it has wings that wrap around
the top of your boot for extra support;
useful for presses and rails.
- Lowback - smaller in height than a
normal highback it allows for more
freedom of movement but sacrifices
support.
- Asymmetric - these highbacks are specific
to the left and right foot. They work more
efficiently than a standard symmetric
highback by being able to pick up a rider’s
energy transfer quicker.
- Carbon Fibre - replacing glass fibre the carbon increases both response and control.
• Baseplate - All of the binding components attach to the baseplate and this in turn is fixed to the
snowboard.
• Footbed - Acts as cushioning for impacts and the contour of the footbed matches boot profiles - creating
a better fit. Some footbeds feature canting - the footbed lies on a slight angle reducing pressure on your
knees and helping generate more pop./li>
• Heelcup - Helps to holds your boot in the binding and transfer power into the baseplate.
• Forward Lean - Adjusts the angle of the highback to your natural stance. A large forward lean angle
drives the binding to react quickly to your movement whilst a small angle supports tweaks and grabs.
• Ankle strap - Stops your heel lifting out of the binding when you are turning.
• Toe strap - This strap sits over or on top of your toes adding support.
• Ratchet - The ratchet tightens the ankle and toe straps locking your boot into the binding.
• Ladder - Made from hardy plastics they allow you to make micro-adjustments to the fit of ankle and toe
straps.
*De reținut faptul că întotdeauna piciorul din față va avea un unghi mai mare decât cel din spate, fie că
vorbim de un stance forward sau duck stanc.
SNOWBOARD BINDING SIZE
Finding the correct size of bindings is fairly easy because they only really come in a few different sizes.
The standard sizes are small, small-medium, medium, medium-large and extra-large. You know your
bindings fit correctly if your boots fit securely in your bindings with little space on either side of your feet
and your toes and heels reach to just about the edges of your board while strapped in. Once again, all
components in your snowboard setup should complement your riding style and terrain choice. Freestyle
bindings usually consist of a more forgiving flex. A softer binding is good for mad tweakability and
mobility when getting down in the park or street. These bindings also happen to be lighter designs to help
make trick execution smoother. Lightweight bindings with some flex are also good for beginners. Stiffer
bindings are meant to transmit rapid and powerful response to your snowboard’s edges. People who do a
lot of freeriding choose to use stiff bindings for total control when sending it at high speeds or through
powder. Refer to the snowboard binding size chart below to find the proper size for you. Keep in mind
that all manufactures and models vary and each may have their own unique fit.
Foot Length Boot Size
7.0 inches 1
7.5 inches 2
8.0 inches 3
8.5 inches 4
9.0 inches 5
9.5 inches 6
10 inches 7

SNOWBOARD BINDING FLEX

The flex of your bindings should be the roughly the same as your boots and snowboard (you can see the
individual flex ratings on the binding descriptions - 1 being the softest and 10 being the stiffest). For
example - if you have stiff bindings and a soft boot you will find it difficult to transfer power from your
boot.
If you have a snowboard and binding that have a similar flex they will work as one, granting the rider
better control, consistency and feedback.
• Soft Flex Bindings - Freestyle bindings usually consist of a more forgiving flex. A softer binding is
good for mad tweakability and mobility when getting down in the park or street. These bindings also
happen to be lighter designs to help make trick execution smoother. Lightweight bindings with a softer
flex is also good for beginners.
The highback, baseplate, heelcup are made from softer materials (i.e urethane) that can flex more on rails,
tweak and grabs. Because the binding is less sensitive to movement you have a little be of leeway if you
don’t land completely straight off a kicker and it is more forgiving for beginners who are not as precise
actions.
• Medium Flex Bindings - Right in the middle of the pack, of course, is the medium flex binding. A
medium flex binding is great for all mountain riding because they offer a perfect amount of response and
forgiveness for all type of riding styles and terrain types.
Aimed at those who want to ride all the terrain a blend of performance and forgiveness ideal for
intermediates.
• Stiff Flex Bindings - Stiff flex bindings are meant to transmit rapid and powerful response to your
snowboard’s edges. People who do a lot of freeriding or pipe riding choose to use stiff bindings for total
control when sending it at high speeds.
Refer to the snowboard binding size chart below to find the proper size for you. Keep in mind that all
manufactures and models vary and each may have their own unique fit.
Stiff materials are more atuned to your movements providing a responsive ride for when you are going
fast and need ultimate control. Expert snowboarders who are riding big mountain freestyle lines and huge
features tend to choose stiff bindings.

BINDING TYPES
Snowboarding has seen plenty of binding designs. While some types of bindings have become obsolete
over the years, but new binding technologies are developed every season. Bindings are no longer just
something to hold your feet onto your board. They are a genuine piece of equipment that can really make
a difference in your riding.
Below is a description of two popular binding types that are often utilized by many riders of all riding
types. There are other less common binding types that you may also consider. Use this information as
reference only and do not forget to incorporate your personal preference.
• Traditional Strap Bindings - The
traditionally designed strap bindings are a
snowboard staple that can work well with
both stiff boots and soft boots. They have
been around for decades and show no sign
of disappearing. This is no doubt the most
commonly used type of binding on the
market and for a few good reasons. Strap
bindings can be easily entered and exited
with a few clicks of a time-tested ratchet mechanism. This type of binding features two sets of straps per
each binding that allow for a good amount of customization and a quality fit. The straps are also easily
replaceable and usually less expensive than replacement components for other binding types.
• Rear-Entry Bindings - With a similar look to the traditional strap bindings, rear-entry bindings actually
operate quite differently. Rear-entry bindings, also known as speed-entry bindings, consist of a hinged
highback that can fold backward for speedy in-and-out access. Once the front straps have been properly
adjusted to your boots once, all you have to do is fold up the highback and your good-to-go. It’s a
convenient binding design that takes the traditional strap design to another level. These bindings also
operate well with both stiff and soft boots.

COMPATIBILITY
Ensure that your binding disc or baseplates are compatible with your board’s hole-pattern inserts. Some
boards require a brand-specific baseplate like Burton’s 3D hole-pattern. Some companies offer some
options when it comes to baseplates, but it is up to you, the consumer, to know what will work together
and what won’t. You should also verify that your boots will fit into your new pair of bindings correctly.
Your boots should fit somewhat snug into your bindings, leaving little space on either side of your foot.
The straps of your bindings should also fit tightly across your boots without leaving room for your boot to
rise out of the binding. Buying boots first to have something to reference for a measurement is a great
idea.

BINDING MOUNTS HOLES

Hole-patterns refer to the round, threaded metal insert holes that every snowboard features to secure your
bindings to the board. It can be nice to know the difference between the hole-patterns if you are looking
for that perfect stance that provides optimal comfort. These holes can be arranged in multiple orientations.
There are a handful of different hole-patterns that snowboard manufacturers utilize most. Each style of
hole-pattern has their pros and cons and they should all be considered when shopping for a new board.
• 4×4 - A common and one of the most basic hole-patterns is the 4×4
arrangement. The 4×4 hole-pattern means that the inserts are spaced
an equal four centimeters apart vertically and horizontally from one
and other. This is a tried-and-true insert construction and offers a
moderate amount of stance opportunities. This insert arrangement
works with almost all binding disc designs with a few exceptions.
• 2×4 - A variation of the 4×4 hole-pattern, the 2×4 arrangement
offers more variety in your mounting options. This design offers
more holes placed vertically on the board, which are all spaced an
equal two centimeters apart. This is a great option for someone
looking to be able to make some minuscule adjustments to their
stance setup. This insert arrangement is found on the majority of
boards today and works with almost all binding disc designs with a
few exceptions.
• 3D - Strictly found within Burton’s arsenal of boards, the 3D hole-
pattern offers just as good of stance options as the standard
rectangular row of insert holes. An important note: if you buy a
Burton board, keep in mind that you might need to buy specific Burton bindings with the proper disc to fit
the unique hole-patterns as well. Other companies may also produce Burton compatible binding inserts to
accommodate your setup selection.
• Channel/Slider - A few different companies have offered a sliding insert system over the years with the
same goal in mind. The goal is to have the most freedom possible when choosing a stance setup. With
slider systems such as Burton’s Channel system, riders are offered the opportunity to make very fine-tune
adjustments to completely customize their stance. An important note: if you buy a Burton board, keep in
mind that you might need to buy specific Burton bindings with the proper disc to fit the unique hole-
patterns as well. Other companies may also produce Burton compatible binding inserts to accommodate
your setup selection.

WHAT SIZE BINDINGS DO I NEED?

Hopefully we answered that question above but bindings are probably the easiest element to choose for
your arsenal. Bindings only come in a few different size options, but each size accommodates a range of
boot sizes. This makes finding the right size binding a quick and easy process. A couple other things to
look at while shopping are different types of binding entry systems and board/boot/binding compatibility.
There are several types of bindings, most are similar and utilize the traditional strap system. Some
bindings use a rear-entry system with an optional strapping option. Each system has pros and cons but it
is really personal preference. Making sure all your gear is compatible is a good way to start looking at
bindings. Make sure your bindings will cooperate with your boots. Some bindings have baseplates
designed for very specific boards and will not work with all hole-patterns.

BINDINGS SETUP
When you set up a snowboard there are several things to consider before you can have the bindings on
and be ready to go. Here everything that needs to be decided on is gone through step by step, with
information and advice to help work out what will work best for you.

REGULAR OR GOOFY
The first thing we need to work out our footedness.
Since on a snowboard we stand sideways to the
direction the board points, we either have to go to
our left or to our right. Regular is where you ride
left foot first (forwards is to your left), and goofy is
where you ride with your right foot first (forwards
is to your right). Some people know instinctively
which way they should ride, for people who don't,
there are several methods that can be used to try and
work it out. Getting people to imagine they are
surfing or skateboarding, and then say which way is forwards in their imagination generally works well.
Another good method is to have your back foot as the foot you would kick a football with. Unfortunately
none of the methods to work out if you are regular or goofy are as reliable as would be nice. Some people
will even switch between regular and goofy several times before they decide which is best for them. If
you take snowboard lessons, one thing the instructor will look for and check on is that you are riding in
the direction that is best for you.

STANCE WIDTH
Next you need to decide how far apart you want to
have your feet. As a general rule your stance width
should be a little wider than your shoulders (or
roughly 29% of your height for men, and 27% of your
height for women). This might need adjusting though
depending on what you want to do, and what you feel
comfortable with. Freestylers will often have a wider
stance to help them throw the snowboard around, and
for more stability on landings. Freeriders often have a
slightly narrower stance as it makes turning and piste
riding easier. Freeriders also don't need to throw their weight along the board so much, so have no need
for that extra stability along the board. If you haven't snowboarded before it's advised to start with the
bindings just over shoulder width apart, and then adjust them from there if you feel you need to.
STANCE OFFSET (SETBACK)
Before you can attach the bindings to the board you
need to decide where along the board the bindings
should be positioned. Most boards have the holes for
the bindings offset by the recommended amount for the
board, but you can still change where you put them.
Someone looking to concentrate strongly on freestyle
with a suitable freestyle snowboard, will put the
bindings in the middle of the board, as it makes
spinning the board, and riding switch easier. Whereas
someone who is looking to do a lot of off-piste
snowboarding with a more freeride orientated snowboard, will put the bindings further towards the back
of the board, as it helps the snowboard to float in the powder. Whatever you do the bindings should not be
closer to the front of the board than the back. Most snowboarders are all-mountain riders who do a bit of
everything, and will have the bindings set back just a bit, as it is a good position for piste riding and will
handle freestyle and powder fairly well too.

BINDING ANGLES
The next thing to work out is the angle each binding should be set
to. The splines on the mounting discs normally let you set the angle
of each binding in 3 degree intervals, which can be adjusted while
the mounting screws are loose. Binding angles are refered to in
degrees with 0° being flat across the snowboard, a positive angle for
when the toes are turned towards the front of the board, and a
negative for when the toes are turned towards the back of the board.
When binding angles are quoted like +21°/+6° the first value always refers to the front foot, irrespective
of whether the rider is regular or goofy.
For different types of snowboarding there are different general binding setups, although these all change
with the personal preference of the rider.
 Forward stance - For general snowboarding,
carving and off-piste snowboarding, a forward
stance is good. This is where both bindings are
angled forwards, with the front binding usually
between +30 and +12 degrees and the back binding
usually between +12 and 0 degrees. This stance is a
comfortable stance, it lets you see where you are
going well, and is also good for beginners. One
place where it struggles though is riding switch, as
it is harder to see where you are going, and puts
your body in an uncomfortable position. This is
why for freestylers a forward stance is generally
not the stance of choice.
Duck stance - For freestyle the duck stance is very
popular, this is where the front foot is angled
forwards and the back foot is angled backwards.
Although this might not be the most comfortable
stance for some, it is good at allowing you to
snowboard in either direction along the board,
which is very handy for freestyle where
snowboarding backwards (switch, fakie) is very
important. When both feet are at the same angle
(i.e. +15°/-15°) it is called a full duck, or mirrored
stance, and when the back foot is not angled as
much as the front it can be called a slight duck. The
duck stance can also be used for beginners on a freestyle board with a centred stance, this makes the
board the same to ride in either direction, which is good for anyone who initially can't decide if they are
regular or goofy and needs to experiment.
Although most commonly used for freestyle, the duck stance can be used for any style of riding, it just
comes down to personal preference. It's not uncommon for freeriders to use it, and it can even help them
to perform tricks in the powder.
Flat stance - Another stance that is reasonably common is the flat stance, where both bindings are at 0
degrees with no angle on them. This again makes it reasonably easy to ride in both directions, and some
find it more comfortable than a duck stance.

BEGINNERS
If you have never snowboarded before, it is recommended that you start off with binding angles of close
to +21°/+6°, and after you have snowboarded for a bit you can then start to experiment with other angles
once you start developing preferences.
 BINDING POSITION ACROSS THE BOARD
Before tightening the mounting screws completely, you need to make
sure that the bindings are in the right place across the board, so that
neither your toes or heels come too far of off the board. This is
normally adjusted by sliding the bindings along the grooves in the
mounting disc where the mounting screws go. Your toes and heels
should come over the side of the board by about 1.5cm (1/2") but not
so far that they will catch in the snow easily. Once you have this right
you can tighten up the mounting screws and set the bindings firmly in
place.

HIGHBACK ANGLES
The angle of the highback is also adjustable, and will change the
responsiveness of the bindings when you lean backwards (the
responsiveness of heel-side turns). To make them more responsive,
lean the highbacks forwards more, to make them less responsive lean
them back more. Leaning them forwards will make you bend your
knees more which is generally good for your stance, but if you lean
them forwards too much your legs will get tired a lot more easily and
you will lose some of the movement in your legs making it harder to turn. Leaning the highbacks over too
far is rarely a problem though, as the normal adjustment on most bindings does not go this far.
Sometimes the highbacks can also be adjusted so that they are in line with the back edge, this makes any
force put on them transmitted directly in the direction that it needs to act.

STRAP LENGTHS
One last thing to do is to make sure the binding straps are the right
length. With your feet in the bindings you should be able to easily put the
plastic ladder straps into the buckles until the ratchets click, yet once the
bindings are done up fully the buckles should not be right at the end of
the ridges on the ladder straps. If this is not the case the length of the
main strap needs adjusting, the adjustment system is normally half way
along the strap where the padding starts.

ATTACHING A STOMP PAD

If you need to attach a stomp pad to the board, it is best to clean the board with alcohol first so that there
is no grease or anything that would weaken the bond with the adhesive on the stomp pad and the
snowboard. Then take the backing off of the pad and place it on the board where you want it, making sure
you press it hard onto the board. If possible it is best to leave the board with something heavy sat on the
stomp pad for a couple of hours, to make sure the adhesive bond is as strong as possible, before you use
it.
 SNOWBOARD PHYSICS
Learning "Snowboard Physics" is in order, to fully enjoy and maximize your snowboarding experience. I
will breifly touch on Gravity, Momentum, Acceleration, Inertia, etc... However, it is not the science that I
want to convey, but more so an understanding how a rider, a board and physics come together to form a
fluid creative outlet.
It is a good idea to work towards understanding your equipment and how you as a rider will use it to
manipulate snowboard physics. Understanding how and why it works the way it does. We're talking about
all the equipment. Such as snowboarding outerwear, boots, bindings, boards, goggles or glasses and all
the other accessories. Like tuning and waxing tools, not to mention binding tools. How and why it all
works the way it does. Then understanding how the equipments characteristics combine body movements
over the board and physical laws of nature to become snowboarding.
In the following snowboard physics definitions, I want to teach you about the relationship between you
the rider and the gear. Though the brands and styles you choose will reflect your personality and are your
choice, I feel it is extremely important that you understand the physical effects of the makeup and
construction of your gear. That way you can utilize the equipment and your skill to reach towards your
potential as a rider.

WEAPON OF CHOICE
The quality of snowboards continues to rise, consistently trying to find a construction and design that
offers the best board characteristics.
- A snowboarder gets to utilize and manipulate physics, i.e. Gravity, Momentun, Acceleration and Inertia
through the use of a snowboards design. The boards design will hold certain riding characteristics, that are
a reflection of the boards Flex, Camber, Side cut, Length, Edge Contact, Shape and Board Construction.
- The design of the board will define such riding characteristics, including Turning Capabilities,
Durability, Stability, Edge Hold, Liveliness or Snap, Swing Weight, and Float.
- All of these factors together create the feel of the board when riding. Therefore, it is good for a rider to
experiment to find what they like or dislike in the characteristics of a board and what combination of
factors give a board the ride the individual is looking for.

As in any sport, along with progression comes the need for more and more specialized equipment. In the
following, I explain the key factors to make a snowboard ride the way it does, and why.

FLEX
The flex of a board is basically the resistance or give that is experienced when the board is bent. Flexes
are characterized as soft or stiff.
• Longitudinal Flex - Which is the bend of the entire length of the board. This will give the characteristic
of liveliness, also known as the snap. A board that is stiffer will be livelier or have more snap than a board
that is softer. This snap will aid in the ability to Ollie or pop of off the tail or nose, and define the feel of
the board in a off-balance landing or turn, in terms of the ability to recover. A softer board will be easier
to turn, but harder to recover on, because the board will be less able to hold your weight over the tip or
tail and lead to a fall. While a stiffer board is more difficult in turn initiation (especially for a beginner),
but recovers better because it is more likely to hold your body weight over the tip or tail, and give you a
better opportunity to push off of the weighted end of the board, moving back into a stable position.
• Torsional Flex - The torsional flex will define a boards ability to hold and edge through a carve. A
board that is stiff torsionaly, whether it is soft or stiff longitudinally, will hold and edge well. Meaning
that a torsionaly soft board has less edge grip or bite in a carved turn. The way to test this is to check the
ability to twist a board, so that the tip and tail are rotating in opposite directions. This is its torsional flex.

• Camber - The camber is the bend built into the board, from tip to tail. For example, if a board is laying
on the ground without a rider on it, the arch that lifts the mid-section of the board off of the ground is the
camber. Camber is commonly measured in millimeters at the highest part of that arch. The camber of a
board is most critically involved in keeping as much of the board or its edge in contact with the snow
through a turn, or while traversing across a hill side. It does this through the flexing of the arch, as it
pushes down the back side of any bumps or irregularities in the riding surface.
• Sidecut - Key to snowboard Physics, the sidecut of a board is the size and shape of the arch made by the
edge itself. The sidecut is essentially part of a large circle and defines the length of a carved turn that the
board. A board with a single specific circle segment running the length of the board is referred to as a
radial sidecut and is the most widely used design in the industry. While other factors, like the flex and
camber will really define the feel of the boards ride, the side cut defines the boards natural turn length.

A board with a long sidecut, or big circle, is more stable than a board with a short sidecut, little circle. In
Snowboard Physics, The stability we are referring to a boards’ ability to go fast while maintaining a
smooth and predictable ride. A board with a small sidecut would be referred to as squirrelly, because it
wants to turn a lot. This causes instability at speed, which can be scary and difficult to feel comfortable
with.

An additional development in sidecuts that has been revolutionary to a certain extent is the progressive
sidecut. A progressive sidecut utilizes two or more different sized circles to make up the length of the side
cut. Most commonly, the sidecut from the nose of the board through the mid section, to around the back
foot, is a consistent circle segment, and then it progresses into a tighter (smaller) circle or cut, through to
the tail. This makes the board exit a turn more quickly, and sets up the next turn more easily than a
consistent radial side cut would. It also changes the way that a board rides fakie, or backwards. When
riding a progressive side cut backwards, the board will hook into the turn, meaning that the turn’s
initiation is quicker than the middle and exit parts of the turn. This adds some instability to the fakie
riding snowboard physics of a board with a progressive side cut. The progressive side cuts benefits can
outweigh the negative effects on a board’s fakie riding, and prove to be enjoyable to ride.
• Length (overall and edge contact) - Along with the side cut of a board the characteristic of a board that
will define its stability is its length. The overall length is the physical measurement from the tip to the tail.
This length is only truely felt in deep snow, when the entire board is in contact with the snow. More
length, more surface area, better float, and glide in deeper conditions.
- The edge contact is the length of edge actually touching the snow on a hard surface, such as a recently
groomed trail, or icy conditions. This length will dictate how long a board feels to the rider.
- The actual length is usually used to describe a board’s length and is most commonly measured in
centimeters. Average board length measurements range from 150cm up to 165cm for a grown rider. For
younger riders, the lengths start around 90cm and progress up as the rider grows in ability and size.
• Board Construction - A board’s construction is the key to its being a great board or a piece of junk.
These days, most of the boards produced are fairly good in their construction. There are many different
components that are involved. The actual materials used, along with the core (boards center) design, and
construction techniques, can all be very complex, and have very different outcomes. It is too much to go
into in this book. I can however tell you that the construction and makeup of a boards core, will define
such crucial factors as the flex and camber, affecting the boards, stability, turning capabilities, liveliness,
edge hold, and most important to many, its durability. If you are interested in the details that go into a
board and its construction, I would go to the companies that build the boards themselves. They are usually
very proud of their product, and either have detailed information on its construction, or could point you in
the right direction to get the low down info on it.

SNOWBOARD PHYSICS CREATE THE FEEL OF RIDING

A snowboards design characteristics and physics will combine to create the following riding
characteristics:
• Turning Capabilities - A snowboards turning capabilities can be looked at in a few different parts of
the turn itself. The ease or difficulty turning a board is marked by the level of effort required at the entry
into the turn or its ability to initiate the turn, the response (Stability or Sketchiness) of the board through
the middle of a turn, and lastly its action in the exit from the turn to the edge change. As a rider advances,
the boards’ characteristics through a turn while riding backwards, or switch, can become equally
important. This turning characteristic in any board is defined by its side cut, flex, and length, as described
above.
• Stability - Commonly, the first characteristic that a rider notices when he/she ride a board for the first
time is its’ stability. Most importantly, a boards’ stability must match the individual rider needs. If a
person is on a board too stable or too unstable, for their personal preference, it can be one of the hardest
things to get used to. As in any of these specific characteristics, the preference will come with
experimentation, trial and error. Make the most of every day on a different board. Remember or even take
notes to help to keep track of your likes and dislikes regarding the snowboard physics of each board you
ride.
• Edge Hold - In some conditions, more than others, this is more or less crucial. For example, if you live
on the east coast, you need great edge control. Lot’s of ice. If you’re in the northwest, where the snow is
often powdery, and even when it is not, it is usually a wet, packed, type of snow that helps the edge hold,
and the boards ability to hold an edge is less mandatory. Here again, trial and error, is the best bet to find
your optimum board. The edge hold is created by a boards’ side-cut and flex, especially its torsional flex.
More torsional stiffness, more edge hold. Then when the snow gets real hard, the absolute most important
thing, is that your edges themselves are well tuned and sharp.
• Liveliness or Snap - The liveliness or snap in a board come directly from its longitudinal flex, and can
make a great board great. Boards with good snap will ollie higher, recover from falls and off balance turns
better, and will be generally more fun for and intermediate to advanced rider. While, a board with a
mushy, or soft flex, will feel dead, in being less lively, making it harder to recover on, and harder to pop
larger ollies on. A board with less pop does have its place as a beginner, novice, or early intermediate
board. It is easier to turn, and easier to learn to feel comfortable on. Being softer will allow a beginner
board to initiate turns easier, and the deeper flex will help the novice rider to control speed.
• Swing Weight - The swing weight is a measurement of how easy or hard it will be to rotate your board
clockwise, counter-clockwise, forward or backward around the center of the board. This mainly affects
the way a board feels in the air. A rider that likes to spin and flip or is hoping to learn to spin and flip will
learn the difference in feel, between boards with drastically different swing weights. A lower swing
weight means the board spins easier. Discussing a boards’ swing weight is getting a bit too technical,
even for me. I just thought you may want to know about it, so you won’t be caught off guard if it comes
up in discussion with a salesman, and if you learn to feel it, you’ll know what it is.
• Float - Last, but not least, especially if you are a powder hound, is the riding characteristic known as
float. Float comes from the boards’ length and width. Riding powder is a source of joy and freedom for
any snowboarder fortunate enough to ride it, and float is crucial. When riding powder it can sometimes be
easy to get stuck. On flatter terrain it is easier to get stuck than on a steeper pitch. The best way not to get
stuck is to stay on top of the snow. To do this you use two things, the float of your board and speed. You
must keep your momentum going to maintain float. If your board floats well, you can go a little slower
and stay on top of the powder. With a board that doesn’t float as well, you really have to sit on the tail of
the board and keep your speed up to keep from diving into the powder and getting stuck.

SOLID CONNECTION FROM BOARD TO BODY

Ground Control – boots, bindings and a partnership with the board
These days there are many different systems that serve the purpose of connecting our feet to the board.
No matter the system, it must provide, in the union of boot to binder, warmth, good fit, good ankle
support, and good lateral support, forward lean adjustments, multiple stance options, durability, and most
importantly total control.
• Warmth - It is good to have a boot that will keep your feet comfortable and warm when it is cold out.
Make sure that when it is warm out, your boots can breathe and let that moisture out, so your feet don't
end up soaking. Sometimes, no matter the case, your feet will be wet. Oh well.
• Good fit - This is one area that a salesmen at a shop may be of great help. Getting the right fit can be
very difficult. A boot should fit snug all the way around your foot, and hold your heel in place. It is
always a good idea to purchase a boot that feels about a size to small. See, nearly all snowboarding boots
have an inner liner or lining, that it sure to compress and pack out over time. But, be careful about
wearing boots that your toe is compressed into the end of the boot. This will cause some agonizing runs in
the first couple days in the boots, but once you break in the inner liner, you'll love them.
• Ankle support - The combination of you boot / binding should be able to provide comfortable,
consistent, and even pressure across the ankle. Any problems with this, will result in lose of control, and
possible pain. Many times it is hard to tell if the ankle support from a system os good until you test it out
on the hill. Try and demo different set-ups and find what works best for you.
• Lateral support - Once again this must be provided through the union of you boot and bindings. Lateral
support provides resistance in your flexing from tip to tail while standing on the board. Many free-stylers
like to have soft lateral support for a better range of movement, adding to the style or poke that you may
put into a trick. Many times though, less support means less control on the ground. Every rider must
experiment to find what works best for you.
• Forward lean adjustments - No matter what system you are going with, you should make sure that it
has a quick and easy way to adjust the forward lean of the high back or boot. As you develop as a rider,
you should often experiment with your stance and binding set up. A good high back will always boost a
person’s level of riding. Depending on snow conditional and terrain, you will sometimes want more or
less forward lean, which will in turn change your positioning as you stand on the board, and is your direct
link to your heel-side edge, heel-side turns, and heel-side take-offs and landings.
• Multiple stance options - In the development as a rider, one of the most important elements to
consider, is your stance. This is the basis by which your body controls the board. It seems that among the
best riders in the world, there are many different stances, and many different styles. As a snowboarder it’s
your responsibility to find the stance that is right for you. And so, it is necessary to have adequate stance
variations to choose from between board and binding. Then experiment, with the stance. One factor to
watch for is the problems associated with toe and heel drag. Just make sure that the binding is adjusted to
center the boots length toe to heel, across the board. The basic range of effective stances is:
Stance Center: 1 / 4” – 1.5” towards the tail from the boards center line
Front foot- between 6 and 40 degrees
Back foot- between -15 and 15 degrees
Stance width- between 17 and 26 inches
(Directly affected by rider height and style)

• Durability - This one explains itself. When you’re gallivanting around on a mountain, exploring,
crashing, having fun, you need your equipment to withstand the harsh weather and usage put on it. Just
ask the employees in a snowboard shop what styles and brands they use, and that is a good start.
Total Control - Total control comes from the comfort of a precision fit and the completed adjustment of
your snow-riding setup. When you feel it, you know it.
 TIPS TO REMEMBER

• For the next board: classic camber, flex 7-8 (a little more stiffer), all mountain pt freeride, 155-160cm
• ceruirea se face o data la 5-6 dări
• Bend your knees.
• Ride across the slope. If you ride across the slope, rather than straight down it, you’ll naturally check
your speed. If you’re still picking up too much speed you can even start to go back up the slope to slow
yourself down.
• Look where you want to go. You will naturally go where you look. If you are looking down the slope
when you want to ride across the slope then your body will naturally try to twist around to go down the
slope. This will put your body in a bad position and will also mean that you’ll start heading straight down
the slope when you don’t want to – if you don’t fall first, because of your twisted positioning. Look where
you want to go – and you’ll get there much more smoothly.
• Secure your gloves and phone on the lift.
• Learn to ride switch no matter what your riding style is or how often you plan on actually riding switch
it will help you become a better rider.
• When pushing yourself up from a seated position, keep your hands in a fist.
• Don’t tighten your boots/bindings so much that it makes your feet hurt.
• Always check your pockets and make sure they’re zip up/close before loading and riding.
• Don't congregate in the landing.
• Get in the habit of falling on your forearms and not use your hands/wrists to break the fall. (not even just
snowboarding).
• ALWAYS look uphill before entering any trail. Especially when exiting the woods. The people who are
in front of you always have the right of way. Never ever pass someone on the outside when they are on
the shoulder of the trail, that’s just like a super dick move and so many people do it. And if a trail is
crossing over another trail, slow TF (the fuck) down.
• Stay to the sides of the trail if you’re not extremely comfortable with the difficulty or conditions and
always look uphill at trail merging intersections.
• Push the high back down of your skating foot onto of the undone straps. Some lifts are low and you can
catch it on the bottom of the lift loading. For the clipped in foot, only tighten the straps 80% for the lift
ride, still completely secure, but let your foot relax a bit for the lift ride before cranking them down for the
next run.
• Wipe down your board with a towel after you finished to dry off the edges so they don't rust
• If you rest your foot under your board when chilling on the chairlift, rest your foot under the heal cup of
the binding instead to stop boot wear due to the boards edge.
• Always bring snacks for the chairlift 😝😂
• Say “hi” to all lifties and treat them with respect. They will remember you if you're a multidayer.
• Stay the heck out of a riders blindside. Skiers and snowboarders alike, if I'm turning and someone is in
my blindside, we can't see them.
• Cotton kills. Gortex and wool are Lifesavers. If you’re sweating you have too many layers or are
working too hard.
• Pack extras of the small stuff in your bag. Gloves, neck gaiters, goggle lenses and extra under layers.
Nice to change out when things get wet, or you lose a glove, or when the light changes for goggles.
• Never ride with your music so high you can't hear your surroundings. Its dangerous. You can't hear
someone calling out that they are passing you, or you won't hear your homie if he falls behind you.
• Everyone says "no friends on a pow day" I always try to keep better track of mine on a pow day as I’d
hate for a homie to be upside down in a tree well somewhere.
• Keep the people you’re riding with on speed dials or voice dial for easier communication in an
emergency and always have the number for ski patrol.
• I also keep an eye out for skiers who have just had a yard sale and lost their gear and try to help return
their uphill items if I can.
• If you're physically tired, hungover, or had a big wipe, take it easy a few runs. Good time to get injured.
• Never do your last run. if it’s the end of the day and your tired be like let’s do two more runs, finish
after the first. I can’t count how many times iv heart my self prety bad from doing one more run.
• ALWAYS tell whoever is in front of you, the direction you are in relation to them. “To your left/ right/
behind you". Helps prevent collisions and you don’t scare them.
• Drink water. Seriously. You can’t even tell you’re thirsty, but DO EETTT!!
• Not just snowboarding, but life in general. List an emergency contact in your phone with the letters ICE.
(In case of emergency) Lots of first responders look for this. Even if you don’t have cell service, they can
still find it. Set the screen lock on your phone to facial recognition or fingerprint so it can be accessed if
unconscious.
• Wear a bandana under your helmet.
• Treat every run like you're on a freeway. Always headcheck when changing lanes. Some may disagree
with the typical "Well downhill has the right of way" which is true, however if everyone headchecked
before making a turn that crosses the entire run, or making a turn that isn't following your previously
predicted path, there would be much less accidents.
• Wax your board as often as you can stand to.
• Best snow is on the extreme sides of any trail.
• overshooting > knuckling
• Wearing a hat under your helmet reduces its efficacy.
• Mittens with glove scrapers for ice coast.
• Practice falling until you can roll out of anything.
• Take a switch lap every day (include the chairlift).
• Keep rub on wax and an edge tool in the car.
• If you're standing below a down-rail, people hitting it can't see you until it's too late.
• Learn how to stand without using your hands.
• If you realized you've left the resort boundary, don't try to “ride back”, just unstrap and start hiking trust
me.
• Keep your tips up.
• Zip up your vents before getting on a lift. You get cold fast when sitting down.
• Tilt the board on the edge when waiting for lift, by doing this skiers won’t chips your edges with their
skiis.
• dacă nu ai opțiunea să probezi, măsoară talpa și lungimea in CM e marimea mondopoint
 USEFUL LINKS AND OTHER SITES

https://snowboardaddiction.com/ - tutorials
https://snowboardingprofiles.com/understanding-the-different-snowboard-camber-types
https://www.salomon.com/en-us/shop/product/pulse-20.html#color=22596 - my buddy
https://snowboardhow.com - size calculator
https://www.fresh-meat.ro/category/tutoriale-snowboard/
https://switchshop.ro
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/snowboarding-glossary.html
https://ridedaily.com/?p=1065
http://www.mechanicsofsport.com/snowboarding/equipment/snowboards/snowboard_construction.html
https://onthemountaingear.com/snowboard-types/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snowboard#Board_types
http://www.ridemteverest.com/buying-guide/snowboard-profiles-rocker-v-camber
https://snowboardingprofiles.com/understanding-the-different-snowboard-camber-types
https://www.snowandrock.com/expert-advice-and-inspiration/buying-guides/snowboard-buying-
guide.html
https://protips.dickssportinggoods.com/sports-and-activities/winter-sports/improve-snowboarding-stance
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/snowboard-boots.html
https://www.ellis-brigham.com/snowboard-boots/snowboard-boots-buying-guide
https://www.ellis-brigham.com/snowboard-bindings-buying-guide
https://www.the-house.com/learn/understanding-snowboards//
https://snowboardingprofiles.com/snowboard-flex-rating-explained-what-flex-is-best
https://www.snowboard-coach.com/snowboard-physics.html
https://www.real-world-physics-problems.com/physics-of-snowboarding.html
https://360guide.info/snowboarding/snowboard-stance.html
https://snowboardingprofiles.com/choosing-the-best-snowboard-stance-setup
https://unleash.ro/blog/snowboard-stance
http://www.mechanicsofsport.com/snowboarding/snowboard_setup.html
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/how-to-snowboard.html
https://www.the-house.com/helpdesk/snowboard-sizing/
http://snowlifts.com/
 SITES FROM WHICH YOU CAN BUY

https://sportconcept.ro
https://www.hervis.ro/store/
https://www.decathlon.ro/
https://www.funride.ro/
https://www.ridestore.com/
http://fresh-meat.ro
https://flavashop.ro/
https://shoph2o.ro/
https://www.skates.ro/
https://www.snowsports.ro/
https://www.freshfarm.it/
https://www.boarders.ro/
https://www.blue-tomato.com/en-RO/
https://nerv.ro/
https://flavashop.ro/
https://darkoxxo.ro/
https://snowboardpro.ro/
https://www.evo.com/