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Winter Horse 

by 

Original pattern by Heather Kumpf.


2020 ©Violets&Heather

1
Winter Horse 

Difficulty Level: Intermediate. 


This pattern is written using US terminology. 
Most of this pattern is made working in continuous rounds, it is 
recommended to use a stitch marker to help you keep your place.   
 
The horse measures approx. 22” tall. This measurement is when medium weight (4) 
yarn and a 3.75 mm hook are used. Other yarn weights and correlating hook sizes 
could be substituted as long as all colors of yarn are the same weight. 
 

Materials ~   
● Medium Weight (4) Yarn in the 
● 3.75 mm Hook   following colors: 
● Tapestry Needle   
● Stitch Marker  ○ Body Color (10 oz) 
● Scissors  ○ Mane/Tail Color (7 oz) 
● Poly Pellet Beads (could substitute  ○ Ivory or White Color (7oz) 
rice)  ○ Collar/Berry Color 
○ Leaf Color 
● Nylon Stocking to hold beads 
 
● PolyFiber Filling 
● Hot Glue Gun - optional for 
attaching eyes & used in place of 
sewing some pieces 
● 24mm Safety Eyes 
● ¾” Jingle Bells 
 
★ I used Hobby Lobby, I Love This Yarn in the following colors: 
 
Brown, Ivory, Black, Red, Dark Olive
____________________________________ 
Abbreviations, Tips & Tutorials~ 
MR - magic ring V ​ ideo Tutorial for Magic Ring 
ch - chain 
sc - single crochet 
slst - slip stitch 
hdc - half double crochet 
dc - double crochet 
inc - increase, work 2 sc into next stitch 
dec - decrease (I recommend using the invisible decrease method) ​Video 
Tutorial for the Invisible Decrease Method 
BLO - work in back loop only 
rnd(s) - round(s) 
st(s) - stitch(es) 

©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  2 


 
Winter Horse 

To use poly pellet beads, fill a piece of nylon 


stocking until you have it large enough to fill 
the horse’s hoof, tie a knot and trim excess. 
The beads will help keep the horse balanced 
and upright. 
 
When making the Mane & Tail, you will 
crochet into the back bump of the starting 
chain. This will create a clean edge. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I use Hot Glue in place of sewing whenever I 
can. I used it to attach the holly, the horse's 
mane, and the jingle bells, as well as the 
horse’s eyes. I will go ahead and note when to 
leave a long tail in case you prefer to sew. 
 
Note: I used several pictures from a lighter 
colored horse so you can see better. 

______________________________________________________ 
Head 
With Body Color~ 

1 - MR, sc 6 (6) 
2 - inc x 6  (12) 
3 - (sc 2, 3 sc in next) x 4 (20) 
4 - sc 3, 3 sc in next, (sc 4, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc (28) 
5 - sc 4, 3 sc in next, (sc 6, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc 2 (36) 
6-10 - sc around, 5 rnds (36) 
11 - sc 24, (inc, sc 2) x 4 (40)  
12 - sc around (40) 
13 - sc 25, (inc, sc 2) x 4, sc 3 (44) 
14 - sc around (44) 
15 - sc 6, (inc, sc) x 6, sc 11, inc x 3, sc 2, inc x 4, sc 6 (57) 

©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  3 


 
Winter Horse 

16- 21 - sc around, 6rnds (57) 


22 - sc 40, (inc, sc 4) x 3, sc 2 (60) 
23-25 - sc around, 3 rnds (60) 
26 - (sc 3, dec) x 8, sc 15, dec, sc 3 (51) 
27 - sc 30, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec (48) 
28 - (sc 6, dec) x 6 (42) 
29 - (sc 5, dec) x 6 (36) 
30 - (sc 4, dec) x 6 (30) 
31 - (sc 3, dec) x 6 (24) 
Start Stuffing. I used hot glue to attach the eyes after I closed the head, if 
you’d rather use the safety backs for the eyes, you can follow the instructions 
for the eyes now.*see below  
32- (sc 2, dec) x 6 (18) 
33 - (sc, dec) x 6 (12) 
34 - dec x 6 (6) 
Finish Off. 
Eye Instructions: To make the divots for the eyes to sit in - Take a piece of 
yarn (I used crochet thread so you can see it better) and thread it through the 
head between rnds 17 & 18 and approx 25 sts apart. Thread the yarn back 
through the head so that you ‘grab a stitch’. Make sure the tail comes out in a 
way so that you will be able to tie a knot around a stitch on the other side and 
pull on the yarn until you form the divots on both sides. Knot the ends a couple 
more times & hide the ends inside the head. I used hot glue to secure the eyes 
in the divots.   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  4 
 
Winter Horse 

Use this same technique to make 


divots on each side of the horse's 
nose, between rnds 10 & 11 & 
approx. 16 sts apart, being 
careful to not pull too tight or it 
will create a gap in the stitching. 
 
Take a piece of Ivory yarn and 
make a couple stitches next to 
the eyes.   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ears 
1 - MR, sc 6 (6) 
2 - (sc 2, inc) x 2 (8) 
3 - (sc 3, inc) x 2 (10) 
4 - sc around (10) 
5 - (inc x 2, sc 3) x 2 (14) 
6 - sc, inc x 2, sc 5, inc x 2, sc 4 (18) 
7 - sc 2, inc x 2, sc 7, inc x 2, sc 5 (22) 
8-10 - sc around, 3 rnds (22) 
11 - sc 2, dec x 2, sc 7, dec x 2, sc 5 (18) 
12 - sc, dec x 2, sc 5, dec x 2, sc 4 (14) 
Sc 2 more times to get to the edge of the ear and ch 1, hold the bottom edges 
together, make 7 sc through both sides to close the opening.   
Pinch the bottom of the ear together, ch 1 and make 2-4 sc back through both 
sides to secure. Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Sew the ears to the head at 
approx. rnds 25-27. *See photo on page 4 for reference. 
©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  5 
 
Winter Horse 

Muzzle ‘Cap’ & Nose Blaze 


With Ivory~ 
1 - MR, sc 6 (6) 
2 - inc x 6  (12) 
3 - (sc 2, 3 sc in next) x 4 (20) 
4 - sc 3, 3 sc in next, (sc 4, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc (28) 
5 - sc 4, 3 sc in next, (sc 6, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc 2 (36) 
6 - sc 5, inc, (sc8, inc) x 3, sc 3 (40) 
7 - sc around (40) 
8 - sc 5, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 3, sc 3 (36) 
9 - sc around (36) 
Here we will begin working back and forth to create the blaze that goes up the 
horse’s nose to between its ears. 
10 - sc 6, ch 1, turn *this is a partial 
row for placement 
11-27 - sc 9, ch 1, turn. 17 rows (9) 
28 - sc 9, ch1, continue to sc down 
the side of the blaze, around the 
muzzle, and back up the blaze & 
across to your starting point, 
creating a neat edge. 
Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Sew 
the muzzle/blaze to the horse's 
nose. 
Neck 
Start with a long beginning tail, you will use this to sew the head to the neck. 
Ch 36, slst into the first ch to join, ch 1 
1-2 - sc around, 2 rnds (36) 
3 - sc 10, (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (42) 
4-5 - sc around, 2 rnds (42) 
6 - sc 18, (inc, sc 2) x 3, sc 15 (45) 
7 - sc around  (45) 
8 - sc 17, inc, sc 3, (inc, sc 2) x 2, (inc, sc 3)x2 , sc 10 (50) 
9-12 - sc around, 4 rnds (50) 
13 - (sc 2, inc) x 4, sc 12, (inc, sc 2) x 4, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc (60) 
14 - sc around (60) 
15 - sc 25, (dec, sc 2) x 5, sc 15 (55) 
Finish Off, leaving a long tail.   
 
©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  6 
 
Winter Horse 

Body 
 
1 - MR, sc 6 (6) 
2 - inc x 6 (12) 
3 - (sc, inc) x 6 (18) 
4 - (sc 2, inc) x 6 (24) 
5 - (sc 3, inc) x 6 (30) 
6 - (sc 4, inc) x 6 (36) 
7 - (sc 5, inc) x 6 (42) 
8 - (sc 6, inc) x 6 (48) 
9 - (sc 7, inc) x 6 (54) 
10 - (sc 8, inc) x 6 (60) 
11-47 - sc around, 37 rnds (60) 
48 - (sc 8, dec) x 6 (54) 
49 - (sc 7, dec) x 6 (48) 
50 - (sc 6, dec) x 6 (42) 
51 - (sc 5, dec) x 6 (36) 
52 - (sc 4, dec) x 6 (30) 
Begin Stuffing 
53 - (sc 3, dec) x 6 (24) 
54 - (sc 2, dec) x 6 (18) 
55 - (sc, dec) x 6 (12) 
56 - dec x 6 (6) 
Finish Off.   
Assembly: Place the front of the neck at approx. rnd 4 of the body, the back 
of the neck will reach to approx. rnd 23. Stuff 
the neck firmly, then sew the head to the top of 
the neck. I sewed the head at an angle so it 
looks like the horse is looking off to the side but 
you can sew it straight on, or however you like. 
Add additional stuffing before closing up the 
last few stitches to make sure the neck is nice 
and firm and can support the head.  
 
Legs 
The bottom portion of all the legs will be 
made the same, however, each leg will have 
different instructions towards the top. Each leg 
will have a partial ‘flap’ at the top which will be 
sewn up onto the sides of the body, while the 
©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  7 
 
Winter Horse 

rest of the leg is sewn to the bottom of the horse. This helps with placement 
and the look of the legs. *See instructions for adding leg hair on page 10 before 
attaching the legs to the body. 
 
Left Front Leg 
Start with Ivory Color~ 
1 - MR, sc 6 (6) 
2 - inc x 6 (12) 
3 - (sc, inc) x 6 (18) 
4 - (sc 2, inc) x 6 (24) 
5 - (sc 3, inc) x 6 (30) 
6 - (sc 4, inc) x 6 (36) 
7 - BLO, sc 10, (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (42) 
8-9 - sc around, 2 rnds (42) 
10 - sc 10, (dec, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (36) 
11 - sc around (36) 
12 - sc 15, (dec, sc 2) x 2, sc 13 (34) 
13 - sc around (34) 
14 - sc 14, (dec, sc 2) x 2, sc 12 (32) 
15 - sc around (32) 
16 - sc 15, dec x 2, sc 13 (30) 
Insert nylon with poly-pellets *see page 3 
17-24 - sc around, 8 rnds (30) 
25 - sc 15, inc x 4, sc 11 (34) 
26-28 - sc around, 3 rnds (34) 
Change to Body Color 
29-36 - sc around, 8 rnds (34) 
37 - (sc 4, inc) x 6, sc 4 (40) 
38-39 - sc around, 2 rnds (40) 
Here is where we will begin working back & forth to create the flap.  
40 - sc 10, hdc 21, ch 1, turn 
41 - hdc 21, ch 1, turn (21) 
42 - hdc 3, dc 15, hdc 3 (21) 
Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff firmly.  
Right Front Leg 
Follow the same instructions as the Left Front Leg through rnd 36 
37 - inc, sc 8, (inc, sc 4) x 5 (40) 
38-39 - sc around, 2 rnds (40) 
Sc 4, ch 1, turn (this is a partial rnd to get to starting place) 
40 - hdc 21, ch 1, turn (21) 
©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  8 
 
Winter Horse 

41 - hdc 21, ch 1, turn (21) 


42 - hdc 3, dc 15, hdc 3 (21) 
Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff firmly.  
Left Rear Leg 
Follow the same instructions as the Left Front Leg through rnd 24 
25 - sc 2, inc x 4, sc 24 (34) 
26-28 - sc around, 3 rnds (34) 
Change to Body Color 
29 - (sc 16, inc) x 2 (36) 
30 - (sc 5, inc) x 6 (42) 
31-32 - sc around, 2 rnds (42) 
33 - (sc 6, inc) x 3, sc 21 (45) 
34 - sc around (45) 
35 - sc 6, (inc, sc 2) x 2, sc 13, (inc, sc 2) x 2, sc 14 (49) 
36 - sc around (49) 
37 - sc 28, inc, sc 20 (50) 
38 - sc around (50) 
39 - sc 5, (inc, sc 2) x 2, sc 16, (inc, sc 2) x 2, sc 17 (54) 
Here is where we will begin working back & forth to create the flap.  
40 - sc 4, hdc 28, ch 1, turn   
41 - hdc 28, ch 2, turn (28) 
42 - dc 23, hdc 5, ch 1, turn (28) 
43 - sc 5, hdc 23, ch 1, turn (28) 
44 - sc 5, hdc 20, sc 3 (28) 
Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Firmly. 
Right Rear Leg 
Follow the same instructions as the Left R ​ ear​ Leg through rnd 32 
33- sc 6, inc, sc 27, inc, sc 6, inc (45) 
34 - sc around (45) 
35 - sc 3, (inc, sc 2) x 2, sc 13, (inc, sc 2) x 2, sc 17 (49) 
36 - sc around (49) 
37 - sc 10, inc, sc 38 (50) 
38 - sc around (50) 
39 - sc 8, (inc, sc 2) x 2, sc 19, (inc, sc 2) x 2, sc 11 (54) 
Here is where we will begin working back & forth to create the flap.  
40 - sc 16, ch1, turn, hdc 28, ch 1, turn   
41 - hdc 28, ch 2, turn (28) 
42 - dc 23, hdc 5, ch 1, turn (28) 
43 - sc 5, hdc 23, ch 1, turn (28) 
44 - sc 5, hdc 20, sc 3 (28) 
©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  9 
 
Winter Horse 

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Firmly. 


Attaching hair to each leg~ 
I used approx. 12” long strands of 
Ivory yarn for all of the leg hair, 
then I trimmed it to where it 
reached the bottom of the hoof 
after I was done.   
Use the latch-hook method to 
attach a strand of Ivory yarn to 
each stitch between rnds 19 & 20 
of each leg. Then starting 
between rnd 28 & 29 (between 
the Ivory color of the lower leg 
and the body color) make a 
triangle shape down to the fringe 
you added at rnds 19 & 20 on 
each leg. Center the triangle with 
the back of the leg, for me I 
started the tip of the triangle 
about 4 stitches over from where 
the body color starts.  
The triangle doesn’t have to be precise 
because once we separate the yarn 
strands it will blend together. Here is a 
diagram of how many strands I attached 
on each round but feel free to do what 
you think looks best on your horse. 
 
 

After all the hair is attached, take your 


tapestry needle and insert it into each individual strand of yarn towards the 

©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  10 


 
Winter Horse 

top, where it connects to the leg, and pull down, separating the strand in two. 
This is a bit tedious but it makes the hair look more realistic and ‘flowy’ which 
I felt was important to the overall look of the horse. I found it was easier to 
start at the tip of the triangle and work down, moving the separated strands up 
and away from the others so they didn’t get tangled as I worked. *See photo on 
previous page. Trim the hair to where it reaches the bottom of the hoof after 
you’re finished separating the strands.   
 
Attaching the legs~ 
Sew the legs to the body. When 
attaching the back legs, be sure to place 
the inside of the leg at the center point of 
the body. The legs are pretty large so 
you’ll want to be sure to leave enough 
room for the second one. *see photo  
 
Add stuffing before closing up the last 
few stitches to insure the bottom of the 
legs are firm. Add some lighter stuffing 
to fill in the flap area, making sure the 
stuffing doesn’t pull gaps in the hdc/dc 
stitches. *see photo on next page for a 
view of the front legs. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  11 


 
Winter Horse 

 
 

Mane & Tail 


The mane and tail are made up of 2 
strips that are joined together at the 
top, forming what we will refer to as a 
‘Section’.   
Each strip begins with a starting ch. 
You will start by working in the 2nd 
chain from the hook and sc into the 
back bumps of the starting ch *See 
page 3. You will work a total of 3 rows 
of sc, then, without finishing off, begin 
a new starting ch for the second strip. 
After working 3 rows of sc on the 
second strip, you ch 1, fold the strips 
together and sc across the top to join, 
forming a Section. 
 
I will write out the instructions for the first 
Section, then you will repeat the same technique 
for the next section, changing only the length of 
the chains. 
 
~You will have a total of 2 separate sections and 1 
individual strip for the part of the mane that goes 
between the ears~ 
 
*see photo on next page for placement. 
Front mane - Section 1 
With Mane/Tail Color~ 
Ch 42, starting in 2nd ch from the hook & working 
in back bump- 
1-2 - sc across, ch 1 & turn (41) 
3 - sc across (41) 
Ch 36 
1-2 - sc across, ch 1 & turn (35) 
3 - sc across (35) 

©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  12 


 
Winter Horse 

Ch 1 and fold the 2 strips together, sc across to join. Finish Off, leaving a long 
tail. This section will go next to the inside of the left ear, attach it at an angle 
so that it lays off to the right side of the horse’s head. 
Front mane - Section 2: ​With Mane/Tail Color~ 
Strip 1: ch 21; Strip 2: ch 31. This goes next to the inside of the right ear; the 
hair will fall off to the right side without having to angle this section. 
 
Now, we will make a single strip that is 31 ch long. This piece goes between the 
2 sections and is angled to lay off to the right side as well. 
 
*The lines on the photo show the top of each section/strip & their placement 
between the ears and the angle of placement. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Side mane - 
With Mane/Tail Color~ 
Next, we will make the part of the 
mane that goes down the back of the 
horse’s head and neck. For this piece 
I made 5 continuous sections. I made 
2 strips and joined them together but 
instead of finishing off, I made the 
next starting ch, making my next 2 
strips and joined those 2 strips 
together and so on. You will have 5 
sections total that are all connected. 
Then I just single crocheted across 
©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  13 
 
Winter Horse 

the top of all five sections for a cleaner look and to make the piece easier to 
attach. Every strip will start with a ch of 41.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Sew the Mane down the middle of the back of the horse’s head and neck. 
 
Tail~ 
With Mane/Tail Color~ 
For the tail we will make 2 continuous 
sections (total of 4 strips). After single 
crocheting across the top of the 2nd 
section, ch 1, fold one section over the top 
of the other and sc across the top to join. 
(you’ll have 4 strips stacked one on top of 
the other). Make 2 separate pieces that 
have 4 strips each. Make each strip 49 ch 
long. 
Finish off each piece, leaving a long tail. 
Sew the first piece to approx. rnd 48 of 
the horse’s body. Sew the next piece 
directly above the first. 
 
 

©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  14 


 
Winter Horse 

Holly Leaves & Berries 


I made 3 berries and 2 leaves which I 
placed behind the horse’s left ear. You can 
make as many as you wish, placing them 
however you choose. 
Leaf​:  
With Leaf Color~ 
*The picot is made by chaining 3, then slst 
into the 3rd ch from hook. 
Ch 9, starting in 2nd ch from the hook~ 
1 - sc 7, sc 3 in last ch, (turn so you are  
working on the opposite side of the ch),  
sc 6, inc (18) 
2 - (sc, picot, slst into next st) x 9 (18) ~ total  
of 9 spikes 
Berry​:  
With Berry Color~  
1 - MR 6 (6) 
2-3 - sc around, 2 rnds (6) 
Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Sew the berries to the 
leaves. Attach leaves & berries to the horse. * see 
photos on page 13 for placement 
 
Collar 
With Collar Color~ 
Ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from the hook~ 
1 - sc 5, sc 3 in the last ch, (turn so you are working on 
the opposite side of the ch),  
sc 4, inc (14) 
2-74 - sc around, 73 rnds (14) 
sc 4 more to get to the edge, hold both sides together 
& sc 7 through both to close the opening. Finish Off, 
leaving a long tail. Sew the jingle bells around the 
collar; I used hot glue to attach mine. (If you don’t 
have any jingle bells, you can use yellow yarn and 
follow the instructions for the berries to make yarn 
bells). I spaced my bells approx. 2” apart. Place the 

 
collar around the horse’s neck and sew the ends 
together.

©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  15 


 
Winter Horse 

Finished! 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Please share photos of your finished horse with me at 
violetsnheather@gmail.com​, or on Instagram: @violets.and.heather. If you 
 
have any questions or find any mistakes, please feel free to contact me.

Thank you!! 
©Violets&Heather by Heather Kumpf  16 
 

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