Deck Cadet Booklet For Deck Maintenance, 2008

Original Date: Version Page
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Deck Maintenance 01 March 2008
Revision Date: Revision 1 of 35
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TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE
1. Deck Maintenance ----------------------------------------------------------------------------3
1.1 Chipping and Scrapping
1.1.1 Equipment Used in Chipping and Scrapping
1.1.2 Personal Protective Equipment
1.2 Painting
1.2.1 Paint
1.2.2 Product Variants
1.2.3 Mixing of Paint
1.2.4 Thinning
1.2.5 Application
1.2.6 Paint Work
1.2.7 Articles and Equipment Used in Painting
1.3 Greasing
1.3.1 Grease Gun

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1.3.2 Common Tips for Using a Grease Gun
1.3.3 Greasing Equipment
1.4 Knots, Bends, Hitches and Splices
1.4.1 Definition of Terms
1.5 Wire Rope
1.5.1 Wire Rope

1.5.2 Application
1.5.3 How to Handle Wire Rope
1.5.4 Wire Rope Clips
1.5.5 Thimbles
1.5.6 Wire Splicing

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1. Deck maintenance
Maintenance is the continuous protective care of the fabric, contents and setting of
a place. A maintenance plan is the most cost-effective way to ensure the ongoing
value of any asset, particularly a ship. The plan should include regular inspections,
prompt attention to repairs and a cleaning program.
1.1 Chipping and Scrapping
Chipping and scrapping are types of deck maintenance focusing on rust removal
using power and portable tools to prevent rust formation or heavy corrosion on
board a ship. Precaution should be taken into account when performing such
duties as it may aggravate seafarer condition when no proper guidelines being
given prior to the execution of any maintenance work onboard.
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Fig. 1.1-1 Chipping Fig. 1.1-2 Chipping

and Scrapping and Scrapping
1.1.1 Equipment Used in Chipping and Scrapping
Equipment Description
Pneumatic Hammer is a portable

percussive tool designed to remove rust
similar to jet chisel and it is powered by
compressed air. It is fitted with rotary
hammer that is used in removing rust more
faster than jet chisel.
Jet Chisel is a pneumatic machine tool,

fitted with several needles designed to
remove rust.
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Pneumatic or Electric Sander is a

portable powerful tool fitted with sand disc
designed to remove the remaining rust after
using jet chisel and pneumatic hammer.
1.1.2 Personal Protective Equipment
a) Helmet for head protection
Fig. 1.1.2-1 Helmet
b) Ear Muff for ear protection

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Fig. 1.1.2-2 Ear Muff
c) Safety Goggles for eyes protection
Fig. 1.1.2-3 Safety Goggles
d) Safety shoes for feet protection
Fig. 1.1.2-4 Safety Shoes
e) Safety Gloves for hands protection

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Fig. 1.1.2-5 Safety Gloves
f) Cover-all for body protection
Fig. 1.1.2-6 Cover-all

g) Safety belt and safety harness used when engage in dangerous work
Fig. 1.1.2-7 Safety Belt and Safety

Harness
h) Safety mask for respiratory protection

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Fig. 1.1.2-8 Safety Mask
1.2 Painting
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Fig. 1.2-1 Painting
1.2.1 Paint
Paint is a liquid substance or mastic composition applied to an object or surface

that serves as a protective coating to prevent corrosion or rust formation.
Fig. 1.2.1-1 Paint
1.2.2 Product Variants
a) Alkyd A modern synthetic resin widely used in the manufacture of paints and
varnishes. Alkyd paints must be thinned and cleaned up with solvent or paint
thinner. The terms alkyd paint and oil-based paint are generally used
interchangeably.
b) Binder Binders help bind the pigment particles together. The most common
binder was, and still is, oil. Chalk was sometimes added to bind pigment
particles together in water based paints. Glue and gelatin were other common
binders.
c) Black Japan A black bitumen-based coating traditionally used for decorative
painting of timber – particularly floor borders, furniture and ironwork. It may also
be found in brown or red.
d) Casein also known as milk paint, was traditionally made with hydrated (slaked)
lime, milk and pigment. A strong emulsion paint could be made by adding oil.
Additives increased durability.
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e) Distemper was traditionally used for interior applications. It consisted of water,

glues (one or more different natural glues, gelatine or gum) with whiting as the
basic pigment to which other tinting pigments were added.
f) Enamels Traditionally a natural resin varnish was added to oil-based paints to
provide a hard, more glossy and durable surface known as enamel. Enamels
were usually used on exteriors and on surfaces that were required to be hard
wearing such as doors, windows, architraves and skirtings.
g) Epoxies are extremely tough and durable synthetic resins used in some
coatings. They are highly resistant to chemicals, abrasion, moisture and
alcohols. Epoxies are often used in floor finishes, paints and sealers.
h) Fish eyes The presence of craters in a coating each having a small particle of
impurity in the centre.
i) Glazes were traditionally made using oil or turpentine with a small amount of
pigment and were often part of historic paint treatments.
j) Kalsomine A proprietary name for distemper.
k) Latex paints Modern, water-based paints made with a synthetic binder (latex),
such as acrylic, vinyl acrylic or styrene acrylic latex. Advantages of latex paints
include quick drying time, great strength and water clean up. Latex paints often
have very good colour retention with little fading and are available in a
complete range of gloss levels.
l) Limewash or whitewash was often used on interior plaster surfaces as a first
finish. As plaster could take up to two years to dry properly the limewash
allowed the plaster to ‘breathe’. Limewash traditionally consisted of water,
slaked lime, salt and a variety of other materials. Pigment was added to provide
a tint or colour.
m) Oil-based paints compose of a linseed oil binder, turpentine thinner or
vehicle, colouring pigments and a hiding pigment such as white lead.
n) Pigment provides the colour in paint and makes it opaque. This prevents ultra
violet light penetration and the deterioration of the substrate. In traditional
paints, white lead (a whitish corrosion product of lead) was most often used to
provide opacity. Pigments used in early paints were coarsely and unevenly
ground and mixed by hand which provided a finish with subtle unevenness and
texture.
o) Shellac is a decorative/protective coating manufactured by melting seedlac by
heating or solvents. Seedlac is resin created by lac insects.
p) Solvent-borne paints (oil-based/alkyd) compose of non-volatile oils and
resins with thinners. (Alkyds are synthetic, gelatinous resins compounded from
acids and alcohol. Soybased oils are often used in combination with linseed oil.
Solvent-borne paints dry hard with a high sheen making them suited to areas of
wear and tear.
q) Stains are shellacs or varnishes with colourants. The stain colours but does
not obscure the grain of the surface.
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r) Urethanes Urethane is a collective name for a group of resins or binders that

form polyurethanes. They produce a tough and chemical-resistant finish.
s) Varnish includes oil, water and spirit types were a popular coating material
which formed a solid transparent, protective and decorative film over the
substrate.
t) Vehicle The fluid that carries the pigment is called the vehicle or medium.
Traditionally, turpentine was the vehicle in oil paints and water was used in
water-based paints. Other vehicles include milk in casein paints.
u) Water-based paints include water, pigment and a binder such as hide glue,
other natural glues or gums. Usually used on interior plaster surfaces.
1.2.3 Mixing of Paint
Paints should be mixed, or blended, in the paint shop just before they are issued.
Mixing procedures vary among different types of paints. Regardless of the
procedure used, try not to over-mix; this introduces too much air into the mixture.
Mixing is done by either a manual or mechanical method.
a) Manual Method is less efficient than mechanical in terms of time, effort, and
results. It should be done only when absolutely necessary and be limited to
containers no larger than 1 gallon. Nevertheless, it is possible to mix 1-gallon
and 5-gallon containers by hand. To do this, the following should be done
accordingly:
i) Pour half of the paint vehicle into a clean, empty container.
ii) Stir the paint pigment that has settled to the bottom of the container into
the remaining paint vehicle.
iii) Continue to stir the paint as you return the other half slowly to its original
container.
iv) Stir and pour the paint from can to can. This process of mixing is called
boxing paint.
v) The mixed paint must have a completely blended appearance with no

evidence of varicolored swirls at the top. Neither should there be lumps of
undispersed solids or foreign matter.
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Mixing Procedures (Manual Mixing)

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Fig. 1.2.3-1 Mixing Procedures

(Manual Mixing)
b) Mechanical Method
Prior to spraying any paint, the following mixing must be done:

i) Put paint barrel on - line with small mixer.
ii) Turn mixer on and increase the mixing speed slowly until the paint around
the edges of the barrel is beginning to move in a circular fashion.
iii) Maintain that mixing speed until all the paint is flowing free enough to
rapidly circulate. Paint has a smooth consistent appearance.
Note: If air bubbles begin to form in the paint - the mixer is set too high 6
lower the speed and allow it to mix longer.
vi) Turn the mixer down to a level that will maintain a smooth consistent
appearance (even around the edges) during pumping.
vii) Paint is now ready to spray.
Fig. 1.2.3-2 Mixing Procedures

(Mechanical Method)
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1.2.4 Thinning
When received, paints should be ready for application by brush or roller. Thinner
can be added for either method of application, but the supervisor or inspector must
give prior approval. Thinning is often required for spray application. Unnecessary
or excessive thinning causes an inadequate thickness of the applied coating and
adversely affects coating longevity and protective qualities. When necessary,
thinning is done by competent personnel using only the thinning agents named by
the specifications or label instructions. Thinning is not done to make it easier to
brush or roll cold paint materials. They should be preconditioned (warmed) to bring
them up to 65°F to 85°F.
Fig. 1.2.4-1 Thinner
1.2.5 Application
The common methods of applying paint are brushing, rolling, and spraying. The
choice of method is based on several factors, such as speed of application,
environment, type and amount of surface, type of coating to be applied, desired
appearance of finish, and training and experience of painters. Brushing is the
slowest method, rolling is much faster, and spraying is usually the fastest by far.
Brushing is ideal for small surfaces and odd shapes or for cutting in corners and
edges. Rolling and spraying are efficient on large, flat surfaces. Spraying can also
be used for round or irregular shapes.
Local surroundings may prohibit the spraying of paint because of fire hazards or
potential damage from over-spraying (accidentally getting paint on adjacent
surfaces). When necessary, adjacent areas not to be coated must be covered
when spraying is performed. This results in loss of time and, if extensive, may
offset the speed advantage of spraying.
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Brushing may leave brush marks after the paint is dry. Rolling leaves a stippled
effect. Spraying yields the smoothest finish, if done properly. Lacquer products,
such as vinyl, dry rapidly and should be sprayed. Applying them by brush or roller
may be difficult, especially in warm weather or outdoors on breezy days. The
painting method requiring the most training is spraying. Rolling requires the least
training.
1.2.6 Paint Work
Before the execution of painting activity, ensure that the area is totally clean and
free from rust, solid particles, and other solid materials. Do not paint over the
rust, it is only a waste of time and money. Sometimes it will be necessary to
remove defective paint as the crispness and detail of metalwork can be lost under
many layers of paint. 8
1.2.7 Articles and Equipment Used in Painting
Paint Brush Paint Roller Paint Spray

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Paint spray cable Paint spray nozzle
Fig. 1.2.7-1 Articles and Equipment

Used in Painting
1.3 Greasing
1.3.1 Grease Gun
A grease gun is a common workshop and garage tool used for lubrication. The
purpose of the grease gun is to apply lubricant through an aperture to a specific
point, usually on a grease fitting. The channels behind the grease nipple lead to
where the lubrication is needed. The aperture may be of a type that fits closely with
a receiving aperture on any number of mechanical devices. The close fitting of the
apertures ensures that lubricant is applied only where needed. There are three
types of grease gun:
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a) Hand-powered, where the grease is forced from the aperture by back-pressure

built up by hand cranking the trigger mechanism of the gun, which applies
pressure to a spring mechanism behind the lubricant, thus forcing grease
through the aperture.
b) Hand-powered, where there is no trigger mechanism, and the grease is forced
through the aperture by the back-pressure built up by pushing on the butt of the
grease gun, which slides a piston through the body of the tool, pumping grease
out of the aperture.
c) Air-powered (pneumatic), where compressed air is directed to the gun by

hoses, the air pressure serving to force the grease through the aperture.
The grease gun is charged or loaded with any of the various types of lubricants,
but usually a thicker heavier type of grease is used.
Manual grease guns have their place in

industry. They have a few disadvantages, the
chief of which is poor control that can lead to
over- and under lubrication. Grease guns also
present a higher risk of inducing contaminants.
However, they do have advantages, such as
low cost, ease of use once the technician is
properly trained, and allowing the technician to
inspect the equipment during lubrication tasks.
Just remember not to overlook.
Fig. 1.3.1-1 Greasing
1.3.2 Common Tips for Using a Grease Gun
a) Calculate the proper amount of grease needed for lubrication of bearings,

based upon the calibrated delivery volume of the selected grease gun.
b) Use a vent plug on the relief port of the bearing to help flush old grease to
reduce the risk of too much pressure on the bearing.
c) Use extreme caution when loading grease into the grease gun to ensure that
contaminants are not introduced. If using a cartridge, be careful when removing
the metal lid that no metal slivers are introduced into the grease.
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d) Make sure the grease gun is clearly marked to identify the grease with which it
should be charged. Do not use any type of grease other than that which is
identified.
e) Always make sure the dispensing nozzle of the grease gun is clean before
using. Pump a small amount of grease out of the dispensing nozzle.
f) Clean the grease fitting of all dirt before attaching the grease gun. Inspect and
replace damaged fittings. Also clean the grease fitting after applying grease. It
is helpful to use grease-fitting caps to keep them clean, but still wipe fittings
clean before applying grease.
g) Ensure the proper grease is used at every grease
point. Applying the wrong grease can cause an
incompatibility problem which can quickly cause
bearing failure. Lubrication points should be clearly
identified with which grease is to be used. This can
be done with colored labels, adhesive dots or paint
markers.
Fig. 1.3.1-2
Greasing
h) Grease guns should be stored un-pressurized in a clean, cool, dry area and
in a horizontal position to help keep the oil from bleeding out of the grease.
Grease gun clamps make storage easy and organized. Also cover the coupler
to keep it free from dirt and contaminants.
i) Calibrate grease guns regularly to ensure the proper delivery volume.

j) Use caution and safety when working around moving equipment and when
using a grease gun.
1.3.3 Greasing Equipment

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Fig. 1.3.3-1 Greasing Equipment
1.4 Knots, Bends, Hitches And Splices

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The use of these may locally reduce the strength of a rope by as much as 40-60%,
and this should constantly be borne in mind when working with rope, upon which
the safety of line may depend.
Fig. 1.4-1 Different Types of Knots
1.4.1 Definition of Terms
a) Knots is the interlacement of parts of one or more ropes,

cords, plastic materials, commonly used to bind objects together.
b) Bends is a term used to bend two lines together such as

reef knot, sheet bend, etc.
c) Hitch is a term used to tie on an object.

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d) Rope splicing is a method of fixing a loop eye or joining two

ends together.
No. Knots, Bends and Hitches Description
The Marline Spike is a useful knot

which can be tied at any point along a
KB-1 length of rope without needing to
thread a rope end.
The sheepshank knot is used to

shorten a length of rope. It can also be
KB-2 used to strengthen a chaffed section
of rope.
Overhand knot is used as a stopper

KB-3 knot, but will jam if pulled too light.
KB-4
The figure of eight knot is used to

prevent a free rope end from slipping
through another knot.
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The sheet bend knot is known as

ordinary bend or common bend which
KB-5 is use in joining two ropes.
Knots: Making a fast to a cleat. To

make a fast, take a turn around the
KB-6 cleat and make several figure of eight
turns to build up some friction and
finish off with a twisted loop or hitch
to look it off.
The bowline is best for forming a loop

or eye, it doest jam and its east to
KB-7 undo if not under load.
KB-8
The double loop bowline is generally

used at sea for lowering an injured
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man from aloft, by putting one leg

trough each loop.
The figure of eight bend provides a

safe, and simple way to join two
KB-9 ropes.
The double overhand knot is an

excellent stopper knot.
KB-10
The double figure of eight can be

used as an improvised seat. It is also
use for equalizing the load on two
KB-11
anchors.
KB-12
Monkey fist is used as an end knot

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for a heaving line for throwing from

one location to another to enable a
larger line that could not be thrown
over the distance to be pulled over.
The reef knot is probably one of the

most popular and best known knots.
KB-13 Its typical use is tying the ends of a
rope around an object, eg. A parcel,
bandage or the neck of a sack.
The anchor hitch or fisherman's

bend is a knot related to the round
turn and two half hitches but it is more
KB-14
secure. Another use is to attach to a
rope ring eg. on an anchor.
The buntline hitch is used to secure

a knot but it ends to jam so it is not
KB-15 easy to untie.
KB-16
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The cow hitch is used for tying a cow

to a pole and use to secure a lanyard
to a shroud.
The clove hitch knot is ideal for

securing fenders and the like. It is
KB-17 quick to tie and easy to adjust.
The rolling hitch is like a clove hitch

with another turn. Ideal for taking the
KB-18 strain off another rope and it is a
useful knot aboard ship.
The half hitch is a capsized overhand

KB-19 knot is very useful to carry light loads
which have to be removed easily.
KB-20
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Two half hitches is use for tying a

rope with right angle pull to a pole or
ring and it does not jam.
The marline hitch is a very practical

to lash a long object and it will not slip
KB-21 easy.
Midshipman's hitch is used to create

an adjustable loop under tension;
KB-22 similar to the taut line hitch, except
that the second is jammed inside the
first to increase friction.
The rolling hitch is an effective hitch

for pole or spar where constant
KB-23 tension is maintained.
KB-24
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The single hitch is the simplest knot

use to attach rope to a tree.
No. Splices Description
Splicing is a very strong method of

fixing a loop eye; as the rope is pulled
tighter so the spliced strands become
SP-1 more and more squeezed and locked
in place. Splicing also removes the
worry of a knot becoming undone and
a spliced eye is less bulky.
The back splice provides a secure

SP-2 method
of preventing the end of a rope from
fraying
SP-3
A short splice is an ideal way of

joining ropes.
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Long splice is used to join two rope

ends forming one rope the length of
the total of the two ropes. The long
splice, unlike most splice types,
SP-4 results in a splice that is only very
slightly thicker than the rope without
the splice.
1.5 Wire Rope
1.5.1 Wire Rope
A wire rope is a piece of flexible, multi-wired, stranded

machinery made of many precision parts. Usually a
wire rope consists of a core member, around which a
number of multi-wired strands are “laid” or helically
bent. There are two general types of cores for wire
rope; fiber cores and wire cores. The fiber core may be
made from natural or synthetic fibers. The wire core
can be an Independent Wire Core (IWRC), a Strand
Core (SC).The purpose of the core is to provide
support and maintain the position of the outer strands
during operation.
Wire ropes are referred to by two numbers, the first indicates the number of
strands, including a strand which may be used for the central heart, and the
second indicates the number of wires to the strand.
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Types of Lay
a) Ordinary Lay. The wires are twisted in the

opposite direction to the strands. Right
hand rope is normally used, in which the
wires are twisted left handed and the
strands are twisted right handed.
b) Lang’s Lay. The direction of twist of the
wires is the same as the direction of strand
the strands. This lay provides a greater
wearing surface but should only used
when both ends of the rope and the load
are secured against rotation. It is not likely
to be used for marine purposes.
1.5.2 Application
a) Standing Rigging. Wire ropes used for stays, shrouds and preventers have a
steel core to give extra strength.
b) Cargo Lashings. 6 x 12 ropes are recommended for sizes 8-16mm and 6 x 24
construction for larger sizes.
c) Cargo Handling. 6 x 24 construction is usually used but 6 x19 ropes are also
suitable for ropes up to 24 mm.
d) Mooring Ropes. Wire ropes of 6 x37 construction are recommended for
general use but for powered winches 6 x 36 ropes with a
wire core.
e) Boat falls. Either 17 x 7 or 36 x 36 for ropes up to 16mm and 6 x 36 for larger
sizes.
1.5.3 How to Handle Wire Rope
When uncoiling wire rope, it is important that no kinks are allowed to form, as once
a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, and the rope is unsafe to work.
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If possible a turn-table should be employed (an cart wheel mounted on spindle

makes an excellent one); the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without kinks.
If a turn-table is not available the rope may be rolled along the ground.
In no case must the rope be laid on the ground and the end taken over or kinks will
result, and the rope will be completely spoiled.
The life of wire rope depends principally upon the diameter of drums, sheaves, and
pulleys; and too much importance cannot be given to the size of the latter.
Wherever possible the diameter of the sheave should not be less than 20 times the
diameter of the wire rope. The diameter of drums, sheaves and pulleys should
increase with the working load when the factor of safety is less than 5 to 1.
The load should not be lifted with a jerk, as the strain may equal three or four times
the proper load, and a sound rope may easily be broken.
Examine ropes frequently. A new rope is cheaper than the risk of killing or maiming
crew.
One-sixth of the ultimate strength of the rope should be considered a fair working
load.
To increase the amount of the work done, it is better to increase the working load
than the speed of the rope. Experience has shown that the wear of the rope
increases with the speed.
Wire rope should be greased when running or idle. Rust destroys as effectively as
hard work.
Great care should be taken that the grooves of drums and sheaves are perfectly
smooth, ample in diameter, and conform to the surface of the rope. They should be
in perfect line with the rope, so that the latter may not chafe on the sides of the
grooves.
1.5.4 Wire Rope Clips
Wire rope clips (grips) provide a quick and

effective substitute for splicing and
fastening wire ropes by unskilled labour.
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1.5.5 Thimbles
When the wire rope is terminated with a loop, there is a risk that the wire rope can
bend too tightly, especially when the loop is connected to a device that spreads the
load over a relatively small area. A thimble can be installed inside the loop to
preserve the natural shape of the loop, and protect the cable from pinching and
abrasion on the inside of the loop. The use of thimbles in loops is industry best
practice. The thimble prevents the load from coming into direct contact with the
wires.
Thimble
1.5.6 Wire Splicing
The Docks Regulations of the Factories Act require that a thimble or eye splice
should have at least three tucks with the whole strand of the rope and two with half
the wires cut out of each strand. The strands must be tucked against the lay of the
rope. The “Liverpool Splice” is relatively quick and easy as after the first tuck each
end is passed, with the lay, around the same strand four or five times, but such a
splice should never be used if the end of the rope is free to rotate. If the splice is
made with the lay rotation will cause the tucks to draw and the splice to pull out.
A long tapering steel marline-spike is required. After placing it under a strand do

not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand drawn through.
Wire splices should be parceled with oily canvass and served with Hambros line.
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Splicing Thimbles- Under and Over Style. Ordinary type of wire rope. Serve the
rope with wire or tarred yarn to suit the circumference of the thimble, bend round
thimble and tie securely in place with temporary lashing till splice is finished (as in
Fig.72). Open out the strands taking care to keep the loose end of the rope of the
left hand (see fig.73). now insert the marline-spike, lifting two strands as shown in
Fig.74, and tuck away towards the right hand ( That is inserting the strand at the
point, and over the spike) strand No.1, pulling the strand well home. Next insert
marline-spike through next strand to the left, only lifting one strand, the point of the
spike coming out at the same place as before. Tuck away strand No.2 as before.
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The next tuck is the locking tuck. Insert marline-spike in next strand, and, missing
No.3, tuck away strand No. 4 from the point of the spike towards the right hand.
Now, without taking out spike, tuck away strand No.3 behind the spike towards the
left hand (as shown in Fig.75). Now insert spike in the strand, and tuck away
strand No.5 behind and over the spike. No. 6 likewise. Pull all the loose strands
well down.
This completes the first series of tucks, and the splice will, if made properly, be as
Fig. 76 now, starting with strand No.1 and taking next strand till all the strands
have been tucked three times. The strand should at this point be split, half of the
wires being tucked away as before, the other half cut close to the splice. Fig.77
shows the finished splice ready for serving over.
It will be noticed that this style of splice possesses a plaited appearance, and the
more strain applied to the rope the tighter the splice will grip, and there is no fear of
the splice drawing owing to rotation of the rope.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE

1. Deck Maintenance ----------------------------------------------------------------------------3

1.1 Chipping and Scrapping

1.1.1 Equipment Used in Chipping and Scrapping

1.1.2 Personal Protective Equipment

1.2.2 Product Variants

1.2.3 Mixing of Paint

1.2.6 Paint Work

1.2.7 Articles and Equipment Used in Painting

1.3.1 Grease Gun

1.3.2 Common Tips for Using a Grease Gun

1.3.3 Greasing Equipment

1.4 Knots, Bends, Hitches and Splices

1.4.1 Definition of Terms

1.5 Wire Rope

1.5.1 Wire Rope

1.5.3 How to Handle Wire Rope

1.5.4 Wire Rope Clips

1.5.6 Wire Splicing

1.1 Chipping and Scrapping

Fig. 1.1-1 Chipping Fig. 1.1-2 Chipping

1.1.1 Equipment Used in Chipping and Scrapping

Pneumatic Hammer is a portable

Jet Chisel is a pneumatic machine tool,

Pneumatic or Electric Sander is a

1.1.2 Personal Protective Equipment

a) Helmet for head protection

Fig. 1.1.2-1 Helmet

b) Ear Muff for ear protection

Fig. 1.1.2-2 Ear Muff

c) Safety Goggles for eyes protection

Fig. 1.1.2-3 Safety Goggles

d) Safety shoes for feet protection

Fig. 1.1.2-4 Safety Shoes

e) Safety Gloves for hands protection

Fig. 1.1.2-5 Safety Gloves

f) Cover-all for body protection

Fig. 1.1.2-6 Cover-all

Fig. 1.1.2-7 Safety Belt and Safety

h) Safety mask for respiratory protection

Fig. 1.1.2-8 Safety Mask

Fig. 1.2-1 Painting

Paint is a liquid substance or mastic composition applied to an object or surface

Fig. 1.2.1-1 Paint

1.2.2 Product Variants

e) Distemper was traditionally used for interior applications. It consisted of water,

r) Urethanes Urethane is a collective name for a group of resins or binders that

1.2.3 Mixing of Paint

i) Pour half of the paint vehicle into a clean, empty container.

v) The mixed paint must have a completely blended appearance with no

Mixing Procedures (Manual Mixing)

Fig. 1.2.3-1 Mixing Procedures

Prior to spraying any paint, the following mixing must be done:

Fig. 1.2.3-2 Mixing Procedures

Fig. 1.2.4-1 Thinner

1.2.6 Paint Work

1.2.7 Articles and Equipment Used in Painting

Paint Brush Paint Roller Paint Spray

Paint spray cable Paint spray nozzle

Fig. 1.2.7-1 Articles and Equipment

1.3.1 Grease Gun