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Natural hair

movement

The natural hair movement is a


movement which aims to encourage
people of African descent to embrace
their natural, afro-textured hair. It
originated in the United States
during the 1960s, and resurged in
popularity in the 2000s.[1][2]
Definition and features
The movement is centered around
Black people who wear afro-textured
hair in its natural, coiled, or tight,
curly state.
These individuals of African descent
choose not to relax their hair,
allowing it, instead, to grow in its
natural texture. To relax one's hair
means to use chemicals to straighten
it. This can be done professionally, or
through a kit purchased at a grocery
store for home use.[3] Afro-textured
hairstyles can vary and may include
the adoption of hair twists, braids or
even dreadlocks.[4][5] Not all people
that wear their hair naturally will
choose to do without all (non-
chemical) forms of straightening or
styling. Additionally, for many
members of the movement, "being
natural" does not necessarily indicate
a strict adherence to any particular
type of product or styling regimen;
nor is it exclusively tied to certain
social or political beliefs.[6]
The word nappy, historically used as
a derogatory term to describe the
hair of Black people, has been
positively reappropriated by
Afrodescendants.[7] In Francophone
countries, nappy is often used as a
portmanteau of 'natural' and
'happy'.[4][8][9][10] In the past, the
word was subject to denigration,
having origins that stretch back to
the Atlantic slave trade. It is surmised
that nappy may have originated as a
pejorative reference to the frizzy
texture of cotton picked by Black
slaves.[7]
History
In the ancestral traditions,
hairdressing was "an activity during
which the genealogies' history and
many other cultural features were
taught to children. Every African
hairdressing was codified according
to the ethnic group and by status."[11]

An Ashanti African
comb (Ghana).

During the Atlantic slave trade, the


conditions of servitude did not allow
black people to take care of their
hair, as these people were subjected
to denigration by their master:
'Nappy' became a pejorative
term.[12][13] Thus, the sale of millions
of Africans into slavery forced them
to separate from their originally
aesthetic activities regarding hair
care.[14] After the American abolition
of slavery in 1865, black populations
looked to straighten their hair, so as
to move closer to the dominant
aesthetics in an effort to obtain work.
At the time, the most used
instrument for hair smoothing was
the hot comb, prior to Garrett A.
Morgan's invention of a relaxer cream
in 1909.[11][8][15][14]
In the period between the 1960s–
1970s, racial segregation between
blacks and whites reigned in the
United States. Angela Davis, a young
human rights activist and member of
the 1966 revolutionary movement
Black Panthers, made the Afro
hairstyle famous. This dense and
spherical hairdressing thus
symbolized the emancipation and
cultural affirmation of African
Americans. It was adopted by
multiple celebrities, such as Diana
Ross and the Jackson 5 band
members.[16][11][8][10][17]
During the 1970s–1980s, popularized
especially by some celebrities, the
"Jheri curl," a newer technique to
loosen tightly curled hair, became
fashionable in the African American
community; it can be seen in Michael
Jackson's hair in the music video of
his song Thriller.
During these same years, dreadlocks
were also introduced into popular
culture and popularized through
reggae music, especially by Bob
Marley's hair style and by the
Rastafarian movement. This hairstyle
can be a mark of social and spiritual
distinction: "The adoption of long or
very atypical hair [can reflect]
rebellion or a refusal of the dominant
values."[10][15]
Hair straightening was considered
mainstream and performed
frequently throughout the 1980s and
1990s.[9]
The return to natural hair in the
organic era has been encouraged by
the awareness of the harmful effects
of relaxers on the scalp, ranging from
itchiness, red patches, and burns to
alopecia.[18][19]
Present day

Internet presence
Since the emergence of Web 2.0, a
growing number of creators have
been sharing their beauty advice via:
Blogs: Black Girl Long Hair,[1][20][21]
Naturally Curly,[1][20][22] Curly
Nikki,[1][23][24] Hair Lista,[20][25]
Afrobella,[1][26][27] Un-
ruly.com[28][29][30] in the US; Black
Beauty Bag,[10][31][32][33]
Afrobelle,[34][35] Ivy-Mag[36][37] in
France
Web-zines: Naturally Happy Hair[38]
in the US; FashizBlack,[4][39]
Afrosomething[40][41][42] in France;
Afro Style Magazine[43] in the
Netherlands
These websites have expanded the
natural hair movement around the
world so as to highlight the beauty of
natural hair.[4][16][14]
Events and festivals
In 2014 The Curly Girl Collective[44]
held their first CurlFest, a festival
now held annually in Brooklyn, New
York, that celebrates natural hair.
Outside the US, several events have
developed in order to accompany the
natural hair movement, particularly in
France and in Africa:
The salon Boucles d'ébène: A
demonstration, has existed for ten
years, dedicated to the black
hairdressing and beauty.[4][45][46][47]
The Miss Nappy Paris′ competition:
The election of "Miss Nappy" so as to
promote the Afro hair beauty.[4][48]
The Massalia Nappy Days: Lectures,
projections of documentaries and
fashion shows.[49]
The Crépue d'ébène Festival at
Abidjan (Ivory Coast): Dedicated to
the natural beauty of the African
woman and to the highlighting of the
nappy hair.[50]
The Natural Hair Academy: Event to
better understand the nappy hair,
days of advice by speakers.[4][51]
The AfricaParis Festival: Dedicated to
the "Afropean" culture.[4]
Presence in feminist culture
Each woman has her own reason to
retrieve her authenticity; some want
to preserve their hair against
aggressive hair styling methods such
as weaves being too tight or harmful
straightening chemical products,
while others simply prefer their
natural hair in spite of the pressure
from the dominant aesthetics.[11][8][9][52]
The natural hair movement has been
encouraged by some female stars
who have abandoned straightening,
allowing their natural hair to make a
comeback, such as Erykah Badu,
Lupita Nyong'o, Solange Knowles,
Janelle Monáe, and Viola Davis.

Erykah Badu at a concert in July 2008.


Aïssa Maïga during the 2007 Cannes
Film Festival.

Lupita Nyong'o at the 2015 Cannes Film


Festival.
Beyoncé sporting braids during the
Formation world tour.

Solange Knowles at the 2013 Cannes


Film Festival.
Inna Modja during a concert at Vaux-
sur-Mer 9 August 2012.
Janelle Monáe sang live at the Austin
Music Hall on the occasion of SXSW in
March 2009.
Presence in law
On 3 July 2019, California became
the first US state to prohibit
discrimination over natural hair.
Governor Gavin Newsom signed the
CROWN Act into law, banning
employers and schools from
discriminating against hairstyles such
as afros, braids, twists, and
dreadlocks.[53] Likewise, later in 2019
Assembly Bill 07797 became law in
New York state; it "prohibits race
discrimination based on natural hair
or hairstyles."[54]
"Ethnic" hair care industry
With the popularity of "going
natural", hair care suppliers have
seen a rapid decrease in the
purchase of relaxers, the harsh
chemical hair straightener. An
industry that was once worth an
estimated $774 million, relaxer sales
have gone down 26% over the last
five years, 2013 numbers report.[55]
Relaxer sales have fallen to 38%
between 2012 and 2017. Sales are
estimated to decrease to 45% by
2019.[55]
Women who wear their hair natural
are now spending more money on
chemical-free products that bring
out the best result for their hair in its
natural state. Hair care suppliers and
markets are taking note, as Black
consumers represent a lucrative
market for hair care suppliers, so the
brands now have to adjust for the
new hair movement.[55] Brands have
greatly lowered their production of
relaxers and instead now produce
more natural-friendly products. In
choosing what products to consume,
black consumers rely heavily on
social media to measure results from
others who have gone natural. They
have done this by the use of YouTube
videos as tutorials on how to use
products efficiently, and create
reviews for potential consumers to
watch. Popular brands and products
include Shea Moisture, DevaCurl, and
Carol's Daughter.[56]
Objections and opposition
Many women of African descent have
faced opposition from wearing their
hair in naturally curly styles or other
non-straight, protective styles.
Many women have found that they
are treated unjustly based on having
naturally afro-textured hair. Natural
hair can be deemed "unprofessional",
turning it into a fireable offense.[57]
For example, a 12-year-old student
at a Florida Christian school with
natural hair "was given one week to
decide whether to cut her hair or
leave the academy that she has
attended since third grade" after she
complained to school officials about
being bullied by other students.[58] In
March 2014, the United States
Department of Defense issued a set
of guidelines that banned all afros,
dreadlocks, braids, and twists that
were greater than 1⁄4" in diameter.
Guidelines such as these clearly
disproportionately affect and target
those of African descent.[59] They
later rolled back the guidelines that
same year in August by allowing two-
strand twists. The Army increased the
size of permissible braids and
removed the word "unkempt" from
their guidelines.[60] In April 2016, a
female Zara employee in the
Canadian city of Toronto was
reprimanded for wearing her hair in a
braided hairstyle, which resulted in
her filing a complaint with the
Ontario Human Rights Commission.[61]
Hair appropriation/cultural
appropriation has been an issue
within the natural hair community.
Many non-women of color, especially
celebrities, often wear African-
American hairstyles, which some
have found offensive. Giuliana Rancic
apologized to actress Zendaya—who
wore dreadlocks on the 2015 Oscar's
red carpet—after commenting that
Zendaya's hair must have smelled of
"patchouli oil or weed".[62]
Kim Kardashian wore Fulani braids
(originating from the Fulani tribe of
West Africa) on three different
occasions, without acknowledging
the origin of these braids.[63] She
referred to them as 'Bo Derek' braids'
after Bo Derek, an actress from the
1980s who wore Fulani braids in the
1979 film 10. Kardashian received
backlash, especially from the black
community, but did not acknowledge
the response. The idea of non-black
women wearing natural hair styles
remains controversial.
Terminology
Several words are frequently used in
the vocabulary of the natural hair
movement:[16][5][64][65][66]
Afro: A hairstyle created by combing
the hair away from the scalp,
allowing the hair to extend out from
the head in a large, rounded-shape,
much like a cloud or ball.
Bantu knot: Hairstyle that consists of
twisted hair rolled up into small buns.
See Jada Pinkett Smith as Niobe in
The Matrix series.
Big chop: Cutting one's chemically
straightened hair to let it grow in its
natural texture.
Braids: Hairstyle where hair is
braided with extensions or with
natural hair.
Box braids: A form of protective
styling done through braiding
synthetic hair along with real hair.
This promotes hair growth and
protects hair from breakage and
other damaging factors.
Braid out: Braids are unraveled.
Creamy crack: Chemical relaxers. The
term was coined with the thought
that the use of relaxers is addictive
for those women who strive for a
permanently straight hair texture.
Coils: A hairstyle achieved by taking
small sections of wet or very damp
hair and smoothing, while rotating
the sections, one by one, from root to
tip. Tiny styling combs or a finger are
typically used.
Coily: The texture characteristic of
natural Type 4 hair, whereby the
configuration of the strand resembles
a small-diameter ink pen spring.
Cornrows: A style of braiding/plaiting
hair into narrow strips to form
geometric patterns on the scalp. A
form of protective styling.
Co-wash: Washing one's hair with
conditioner instead of shampoo.
Detangling: The process of using
fingers or a wide-tooth comb to get
out knots in curly textured hair.
Dreadlocks: Matted or sculpted ropes
of hair.
Fro-hawk: Hairdressing similar to the
mohawk hairstyle.
Hair porosity: Natural hair can have
low, high, or medium porosity. Low
porosity hair cuticles are very tightly
closed and do not absorb water or
product easily. High porosity hair
cuticles are very open and absorb
water and product easily. Medium
porosity is more balance and absorbs
water, product, and moisture easily.
In order to best treat naturally curly
hair, celebrity hairstylist Andre Walker
created a hair typing system. This
categorizes hair into four categories
based on how tight curls are coiled.
Kinky hair:

Kinky hair is hair


with tight curls, tight
coils, or no defined
curls.

Tightly curled hair, tightly coiled hair


or hair without defined curls.
Protective hairstyle: Any coiffure
configuration that keeps hair ends
safely tucked away to keep the
natural hair protected from the
elements. These hairdos require very
little daily upkeep and help strands
stay moisturized.[67] Includes braids,
extensions, wigs, and weaves. See
Janet Jackson in Poetic Justice.
Senegalese twists: Also known as
rope twists where synthetic hair is
used and twisted in with the natural
hair.
Shrinkage: Because natural hair is
typically has different types of curls
and textures, in its natural state it
appears shorter than it would
straightened.
Transition: Period of time when one is
transitioning from straightening their
hair with heat/and or chemical
products to wearing hair in its natural
state.
TWA (Teeny Weeny Afro): Short Afro
haircut. See Viola Davis in the film
Suicide Squad.
Twist out: Hairstyle where twists are
unraveled. See Corinne Bailey Rae.
Twists: Double strands of hair
wrapped around each other.
Wash and go: wash one's hair and
going on about one's day. This means
there is no drying or styling involved
and the application of product is
minimal (usually a moisturizer or
anti-frizz serum). The wash and go is
also sometimes referred to as the
"shake and go" which further
emphasizes the lack of actual styling
involved. The goal of a wash and go
is to define natural curls.[68]
Filmography
, movie directed by
Nappily Ever After
Haifaa Al-Mansour in 2018.[69]
Good Hair, movie directed by Jeff
Stilson and produced by Chris Rock in
2009.
My Nappy Roots: A Journey Through
Black Hair-itage , movie directed and
produced by Regina Kimbell in 2008.
Hair Love, Oscar-winning short,
created by Matthew A.
Cherry[70][71][72][73][74][75]
See also
Society
portal
Fashion
portal
United
States
portal
Europe
portal
Africa
portal

Afro
Afro-textured hair
Afrocentrism
Black is beautiful
Discrimination based on hair texture
Black Panthers
Black feminism
Blaxploitation
Curly Girl Method
Internalized racism
Nappturality
Postcolonialism
List of hairstyles
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22 June 2022.

Bibliography
Aliona L. Gibson, Nappy: Growing Up
Black and Female in America (https://
books.google.com/books?id=wMv2PQ
AACAAJ&q=nappy) , Writers and
Readers Ltd, 1 July 2000
Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu
crépu : l'histoire d'une aliénation (http
s://books.google.com/books?id=qku5
AAAAIAAJ&q=Peau+noire+cheveu+c
r%C3%A9pu,) , Jasor, 2004
Frantz Fanon, Peau noire, masques
blancs, Seuil, 1952
Willie Lee Morrow, 400 Years Without
a Comb (https://books.google.com/bo
oks?id=RfVCAAAAIAAJ&q=400+years
+without+comb) , Morrow's Unlimited
Inc., 1973
Ebony, Natural hair – new symbol of
race pride (https://books.google.com/
books?id=PtsDAAAAMBAJ&q=nappy&
pg=PA139) , Johnson Publishing
Company, December 1967
Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, The Science
of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide
to Textured Hair (https://books.googl
e.com/books?id=WQAZAgAAQBAJ&d
q=%22big+chop%22+%22transition%
22&pg=PA219) , SAJA Publishing
Company, 11/04/2014
External links
Look up nappy, coil, curly, frizzy,
kink, Afropean, or Afropeanity in
Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
Wikimedia Commons has media
related to Afro-textured hair.
Chinwe (12 January 2015). "The
Natural Hair Movement in the '60s
and '70s; How It Began and Why It
Ended" (http://blackgirllonghair.com/
2015/01/the-natural-hair-movement
-in-the-60s-and-70s-how-it-began-
and-why-it-ended/) . Black Girl with
Long Hair. Retrieved 31 March 2017.
Retrieved from
"https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?
title=Natural_hair_movement&oldid=1169487
041"

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