1870-an dalam

mode Barat

Mode tahun 1870-an dalam pakaian

yang dipengaruhi Eropa dan Eropa
ditandai dengan kembalinya siluet
sempit secara bertahap setelah mode
rok penuh pada tahun 1850-an dan 1860-
an .

. .
tahun 1860-an 1870-an dalam mode Barat
tahun 1880-an
.
Topik lainnya:  Antropologi    Sosiologi
 Kesibukan dan tirai rumit menjadi ciri gaun
di awal tahun 1870-an. Pria itu
mengenakan gaun malam. Detail Terlalu
Dini oleh James Tissot , 1873.

Mode wanita

Ringkasan

Gaun akhir tahun 1870-an

 Countess Brownlow in
artistic dress, 1879.[1]

By 1870, fullness in the skirt had moved

to the rear, where elaborately draped
overskirts were held in place by tapes
and supported by a bustle. This fashion
required an underskirt, which was heavily
trimmed with pleats, flounces, rouching,
and frills. This fashion was short-lived
(though the bustle would return again in
the mid-1880s), and was succeeded by a
tight-fitting silhouette with fullness as
low as the knees: the cuirass bodice, a
form-fitting, long-waisted, boned bodice
that reached below the hips, and the
princess sheath dress. Sleeves were very
tight fitting. Square necklines were
common.

Day dresses had high necklines that were

either closed, squared, or V-shaped.
Sleeves of morning dresses were narrow
throughout the period, with a tendency to
flare slightly at the wrist early on. Women
often draped overskirts to produce an
apronlike effect from the front.

Gowns had low necklines and very short,

off-the-shoulder sleeves, and were worn
with short (later mid-length) gloves.
Other characteristic fashions included a
velvet ribbon tied high around the neck
and trailing behind for evening in a
similar style to Georgian era fashion (the
origin of the modern choker necklace).

Tea gowns and artistic dress

Under the influence of the Pre-Raphaelite

Brotherhood and other artistic reformers,
the "anti-fashion" for Artistic dress with
its "medieval" details and uncorseted
lines continued through the 1870s. Newly
fashionable tea gowns, an informal
fashion for entertaining at home,
combined Pre-Raphaelite influences with
the loose sack-back styles of the 18th
century.[2]

Leisure Dress

Leisure dress was becoming an

important part of a woman's wardrobe.
Seaside dress [3] in England had its own
distinct characteristics but still followed
the regular fashions of the day. Seaside
dress was seen as more daring, frivolous,
eccentric, and brighter. Even though the
bustle was extremely cumbersome, it
was still a part of seaside fashion.
Undergarments

With the narrower silhouette, emphasis

was placed on the bust, waist and hips. A
corset was used to help mold the body to
the desired shape. This was achieved by
making the corsets longer than before,
and by constructing them from separate
shaped pieces of fabric. To improve
support, corsets were reinforced with
many strips of whalebone, cording, or
pieces of leather. Steam-molding,
patented in 1868, helped hold the
curvaceous contour.[4]

Skirts were supported by a hybrid of the

bustle and crinoline or hooped petticoat
sometimes called a "crinolette". The cage
structure was attached around the waist
and extended down to the ground, but
only extended down the back of the
wearer's legs. The crinolette itself was
quickly superseded by the true bustle,
which was sufficient for supporting the
drapery and train at the back of the
skirt.[5]

Hairstyles and headgear

Hats 1875
In keeping with the vertical emphasis,
hair was pulled back at the sides and
worn in a high knot or cluster of ringlets,
often with a fringe (bangs) over the
forehead. False hair was commonly
used. Bonnets were smaller to allow for
the elaborately piled hairstyles and
resembled hats except for their ribbons
tied under the chin. Smallish hats, some
with veils, were perched on top of the
head, and brimmed straw hats were worn
for outdoor wear in summer.

Wraps and Overcoats

The main kind of wrap that dominated in

the 1870s were capes and jackets that
had a back vent in order to make room
for the bustle. Some examples are the
pelisse and the paletot coat.[6]
Galeri gaya 1870–1874

1 – 1870

2 – 1870
3 – baju mandi tahun 1870-an

4 – 1871
 5 – 1872

6 – 1872–73
7 – 1872–75

8 – 1874
9 – c.  1874

10 – c.  1874
 11 – 1874

12 – 1874

1. Walking dress tahun 1870 memiliki

rok berjenjang dan ruffle di bagian
belakang.
2. Pelat busana tahun 1870
memperlihatkan korset jaket
dengan rok tersampir dan
dipangkas di bagian belakang.
Ruffles dan embel-embel lipit
merupakan hiasan khas tahun
1870-an.
3. Gaun mandi Amerika tahun 1870-an
, dengan rok sepanjang mata kaki,
celana panjang, dan lengan panjang
4. Gaun pagi Prancis tahun 1871
menampilkan pita merah sempit di
garis leher rendah dan pita besar
yang serasi dengan pita di pinggang
belakang.
5. Gaun Dolly Varden tahun 1872
menunjukkan busana populer di
awal tahun 1870-an yang dikenal
sebagai " Dolly Varden "
6. Pakaian artistik awal tahun 1870-
an. Potret Nyonya Frances Leyland
oleh Whistler .
7. Gaun siang hari sekitar tahun 1872-
75an, sutra ungu
8. Gaun luar ruangan tahun 1874
menampilkan rok luar yang diikat
dengan pita yang diikat. Badan jaket
memiliki manset dan garis leher
tinggi. Topi jerami kecil dengan
mahkota datar dan pita panjang
 (mirip dengan topi pelaut pria )
dikenakan dengan ujung ke depan.
9. Gaun gala sekitar tahun 1874.
10. Tampak belakang gaun tahun 1874
memperlihatkan draping pada rok
luar dan sedikit keretakan pada rok
bagian dalam. Perancis.
11. Gaun tahun 1874 dengan rok luar
dan rok dalam yang acak-acakan.
Galeri gaya 1874–1878

1 – 1874–1876

2 – 1875–76
3 – c.  1875

4 – 1875
 5 – 1875

6 – c.  1877
7 – 1878

8 – 1878
 9 –1876

10 — c.  1878

1. Gaun ketat dengan kereta panjang

pada pertengahan tahun 1870-an
dipangkas dengan ruffles lipit, pita,
kancing, dan kepang, serta
 dikenakan dengan topi dengan pita
pita.
2. Gaun Prancis dihiasi dengan bunga
dan dikenakan dengan sarung
tangan putih berukuran sedang dan
pita leher hitam. Gaya rambut
dengan simpul tinggi merupakan
ciri khas pertengahan tahun 1870-
an.
3. Gaun pagi c. 1875 memiliki rok luar
yang panjang dan dipangkas
dengan banyak ruffles dan pita.
Rambut dikepang menjadi mahkota
setinggi kepala.
4. Princesses Dagmar and Alexandra
of Denmark in 1875.
5. Scholander family portrait in 1875.
6. Semi-sheer dresses of c. 1877 show
back fullness beginning at hip-level
rather than the waist as in 1874–5.
The tight, princess-line dress on the
right fits smoothly to the body from
the shoulders to the lower hips.
7. Gown of 1878 has a long train and a
squared neckline. It is worn with
opera-length gloves.
8. Jacket and skirt costume of 1878
features a long train trimmed with
pleated frills and ruching. Matching
ruching trims the cuffs of the
sleeves.
 9. Court gown of 1876 features a train,
long white gloves and the three
white ostrich feathers representing
the Prince of Wales plumes in the
hair.
10. Hunting costume is made green
wool, Scotland, c. 1878.
Caricature gallery

1 – late 1870s

2 – 1871
 3 – 1876

4 – 1878

1. Cartoon "Veto" by George du

Maurier from Punch, satirizing the
tight dress styles of the late 1870s.
2. An extreme class contrast: "Young
lady of fashion, 1871" vs. "London
Dairywoman".
3. From the Danish Punch, satirizing
the general fashion in 1876
4. Cartoon by George du Maurier from
Punch, May 25, 1878, satirizing both
impractical women's fashions and
men's formal military uniforms.
Men's fashion

Paris fashion of 1878

features a coat with a
contrasting collar, a
waistcoat decorated with
a watch chain, wide ascot
tie, square-toed shoes,
and a top hat.

Canadian legislator John

Charles Rykert wears a
narrow ribbon necktie and
a collarless waistcoat.
His coat has wide lapels.
1873.
Innovations in men's fashion of the
1870s included the acceptance of
patterned or figured fabrics for shirts and
the general replacement of neckties tied
in bow knots with the four-in-hand and
later the ascot tie.

Coats and trousers

Frock coats remained fashionable, but

new shorter versions arose,
distinguished from the sack coat by a
waist seam. Waistcoats (U.S. vests) were
generally cut straight across the front
and had collars and lapels, but collarless
waistcoats were also worn.
Three-piece suits consisting of a high-
buttoned sack coat with matching
waistcoat and trousers, called ditto suits
or (UK) lounge suits, grew in popularity;
the sack coat might be cutaway so that
only the top button could be fastened.

The cutaway morning coat was still worn

for informal day occasions in Europe and
major cities elsewhere. Frock coats were
required for more formal daytime dress.
Formal evening dress remained a dark
tail coat and trousers. The coat now
fastened lower on the chest and had
wider lapels. A new fashion was a dark
rather than white waistcoat. Evening
wear was worn with a white bow tie and
a shirt with the new winged collar.

Topcoats had wide lapels and deep

cuffs, and often featured contrasting
velvet collars. Furlined full-length
overcoats were luxury items in the
coldest climates.

Full-length trousers were worn for most

occasions; tweed or woollen breeches
were worn for hunting and hiking.

In 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis

began to sell the original copper-riveted
blue jeans in San Francisco. These
became popular with the local multitude
of gold seekers, who wanted strong
clothing with durable pockets.[7]

Shirts and neckties

The points of high upstanding shirt

collars were increasingly pressed into
"wings".

Necktie fashions included the four-in-

hand and, toward the end of the decade,
the ascot tie, a tie with wide wings and a
narrow neckband, fastened with a jewel
or stickpin. Ties knotted in a bow
remained a conservative fashion, and a
white bowtie was required with formal
evening wear.
Dasi pita sempit merupakan alternatif
untuk iklim tropis, dan semakin banyak
dipakai di tempat lain, terutama di
Amerika.

Aksesoris

Topi tetap menjadi persyaratan pakaian

formal kelas atas; bowler dan topi lembut
dalam berbagai bentuk dipakai untuk
acara-acara yang lebih santai, dan pelaut
jerami datar dipakai untuk berperahu
pesiar dan hiburan bahari lainnya.
Galeri gaya 1870–1875

1 – 1870-an

2 – 1870-an
3 – 1870-an

4 – 1872
 5 – 1872

6 – 1875

1. Foto Presiden Rutherford B. Hayes

tahun 1870-an . Jasnya dan rompi
atau rompi berkerah selendang
memiliki kancing yang tertutup.
 Perhatikan lubang kancing
fungsional di sepanjang kerah
mantelnya.
2. Setelan tiga potong dengan mantel
rok, tahun 1870-an.
3. Oliver Hazard Perry Morton
memakai dasi sempit, tahun 1870-
an.
4. Pria di gerbong kereta api
mengenakan jas berwarna debu,
celana panjang, dan rompi tanpa
kerah dengan dasi merah tua. Dia
mengenakan mantel berlapis bulu
dan sarung tangan cokelat. Inggris,
1872.
5. Piring dari The Gazette of Fashion
menunjukkan mantel berlapis bulu
(kiri) dan mantel double-breasted
(kanan) dengan trim kepang dan
jahitan atas dekoratif, 1872. Celana
kotak-kotak cukup modis.
6. Fotografer Mathew Brady
mengenakan mantel dengan
potongan kepang di kerah dan kerah
di atas rompi yang serasi. Kerahnya
yang diturunkan dikenakan di atas
dasi empat tangan. 1875.
Galeri gaya 1875–1879

1 - 1875–1880

2 – 1876
3 – 1879

4 – 1879
 5 – 1879

1. Setelan santai dua potong dari

bahan wol tartan dengan kancing
kepar tinggi di bagian depan.
Pakaian santai Inggris biasanya
dikenakan dengan topi bowler.
1875-80, Inggris, Museum Seni Los
Angeles County , M.2010.33.9a-b.
2. Mayor Jenderal Yang Mulia. James
MacDonald digambar oleh James
Tissot dengan mantel double-
 breasted yang sedikit pas dengan
saku dada yang diposisikan
diagonal dan kerah yang kontras.
Kerah kemejanya ditekan menjadi
sayap datar dan dikenakan dengan
dasi lebar berwarna gelap. Dia
memakai topi dan sarung tangan.
1876.
3. Foto tahun 1879 seorang pengacara
Amerika Bat Masterson
mengenakan setelan jas tiga potong
dan topi bowler . Mantel karung
cutaway miliknya memiliki penutup
depan yang tinggi dan hanya
dikenakan dengan kancing di
bagian atas, di atas rompi atau
rompi yang dipotong lurus di bagian
 pinggang dan dihiasi dengan rantai
arloji yang menonjol.
4. Sketsa Vanity Fair tahun 1879
menunjukkan Sir Albert Abdallah
David Sassoon dalam "gaun pagi"
(pakaian siang hari formal): celana
panjang abu-abu, jas berpotongan
gelap, rompi putih, kemeja berkerah
sayap, dan dasi gelap.
5. Negarawan Inggris William
Gladstone mengenakan pakaian
konservatif; kerahnya yang tinggi
masih berdiri tegak, dan dia
memakai dasinya yang diikat
simpul. 1879.
Galeri dasi
Potret anggota Dewan Legislatif Ontario
tahun 1873 menggambarkan keragaman
dasi (dan rambut wajah) yang modis.

Busana anak-anak
Bayi terus mengenakan gaun yang
mengalir, gaya yang berlanjut hingga
awal abad ke-20. Perubahan pakaian
berdasarkan gender seringkali tidak
terjadi sampai seorang anak berusia lima
atau enam tahun; namun, pada dekade-
dekade berikutnya, pakaian gender
muncul lebih cepat. Usia anak
perempuan sering kali digambarkan
berdasarkan panjang rok mereka. Seiring
bertambahnya usia, gadis-gadis itu
mengenakan rok yang lebih panjang.
Seorang anak berusia empat tahun akan
mengenakan roknya sedikit di atas lutut;
sepuluh sampai dua belas di tengah
lutut; dua belas hingga lima belas
bervariasi dari bawah lutut hingga
pertengahan betis; dan pada usia enam
belas atau tujuh belas tahun, panjang
gaun seorang gadis akan sedikit di atas
mata kaki. Usia anak laki-laki sering kali
dapat ditentukan berdasarkan panjang
dan jenis celana atau seberapa mirip
pakaian tersebut dengan pakaian pria.
Anak laki-laki sering kali berpakaian mirip
dengan pria dewasa, karena mereka juga
mengenakan blazer dan jaket Norfolk .

Banyak pengaruh terhadap gaya

berpakaian anak-anak datang dari artis
Kate Greenaway , seorang ilustrator buku
anak-anak. Dia sangat mempengaruhi
gaya berpakaian gadis-gadis muda,
karena dia sering menampilkan gadis-
gadis berpakaian gaya kerajaan di
bukunya. Ide pakaian anak-anak yang
diambil dari buku juga ditemukan dalam
gaya seperti setelan Little Lord
Fauntleroy yang dikenakan oleh
pahlawan buku anak-anak terbitan 1885-
86.
 pelat mode tahun 1870

Gaun musim panas dengan selempang,

1872–73
Suster Beatrice dan Ethel Hatch, 1874

Roald Amundsen muda , c.  1875

William Lyon Mackenzie King yang berusia
dua tahun , c. 1876

Lihat juga
Mode Victoria
Kontroversi korset
Dolly Varden (kostum)
Gerakan Busana Artistik
Catatan
1. For commentary on the clothes in this
portrait, see Jane Ashelford, The Art of
Dress
2. At Home at Tea Time: Tea Gowns for
Distinction and Comfort, 1870-1920 (http
s://web.archive.org/web/2001071613084
4/http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/te
agowns/teagowns2.html) , Kent State
University Museum Exhibit, April to
August 1997, Anne Bissonnette, Curator
3. The Girls in Green: Women's Seaside
Dress in England, 1850–1900, Deirdre
Murphy, The Costume Society, Vol. 40,
2006
4. Takeda and spilker (2010), p. 96
5. Takeda and Spilker (2010), p. 99.
 6. Bigelow, Marybelle S. (1970). Fashion in
History: Western Dress, Prehistoric to
Present (https://archive.org/details/fashi
oninhistory00bige) . Minneapolis,
Minnesota: Burgess Publishing Company.
pp. 271 (https://archive.org/details/fashio
ninhistory00bige/page/271) .
ISBN 9780808702610.
7. http://www.uri.edu/personal/svon6141/hi
story.htm Diarsipkan (https://web.archiv
e.org/web/20110720100837/http://www.
uri.edu/personal/svon6141/history.htm)
20-07-2011 di Wayback Machine Sejarah
Jeans

Referensi
Arnold, Janet : Pola Mode 2: Gaun
Wanita Inggris dan Konstruksinya
C.1860–1940 , Wace 1966, Macmillan
1972. Edisi metrik yang direvisi, Buku
Drama 1977. ISBN 0-89676-027-8 
Ashelford, Jane: Seni Berpakaian:
Pakaian dan Masyarakat 1500–1914 ,
Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5 
Goldthorpe, Caroline: From Queen to
Empress: Victorian Dress 1837–1877 (h
ttp://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/cdm/r
ef/collection/p15324coll10/id/69547) ,
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York, 1988, ISBN 0-87099-535-9 (full
text available online from the
Metropolitan Museum of Art Digital
Collections)
Martin, Linda: "The Way We Wore,
Fashion Illustrations of Children's Wear
1870- 1970", Charles Scribner's Sons,
New York, 1978, ISBN 0-684-15655-5
Payne, Blanche: History of Costume
from the Ancient Egyptians to the
Twentieth Century, Harper & Row, 1965.
No ISBN for this edition; ASIN
B0006BMNFS
Steele, Valerie: Paris Fashion: A Cultural
History, Oxford University Press, 1988;
ISBN 0-19-504465-7
Takeda, Sharon Sadako, dan Kaye
Durland Spilker, Fashioning Fashion:
Gaun Eropa secara Detail, 1700 - 1915 ,
 LACMA/Prestel USA (2010), ISBN 978-
3-7913-5062-2 
Tortora, Phyllis. Eubank, Keith: "Survei
Kostum Bersejarah, Sejarah Pakaian
Barat", Edisi Keempat. Fairchild
Publications, Inc.1989; ISBN 1-56367-
345-2 

Tautan eksternal
Piring Mode tahun 1870-an untuk
busana pria, wanita, dan anak-anak (htt
p://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/cdm/s
earch/collection/p15324coll12/search
term/187*/field/title/mode/all/conn/a
nd/order/nosort/page/1) dari
Perpustakaan Museum Seni
Metropolitan
Sejarah kesibukan tahun 1870-an (htt
p://www.wisconsinhistory.org/pattern
s/1873bustleinfo.html) Diarsipkan (htt
ps://web.archive.org/web/2012091417
2748/http://www.wisconsinhistory.or
g/patterns/1873bustleinfo.html) 14-
09-2012 di Wayback Machine
Busana Wanita Victoria: tahun 1870-an
(http://www.victorianweb.org/art/cost
ume/nunn9.html)
Busana Wanita Victoria, 1850-1900:
Gaya Rambut (http://www.victorianwe
b.org/art/costume/nunn10.html)
Busana Pria tahun 1870-an (http://ww
w.gentlemansemporium.com/1870-vic
torian-photo-gallery.php) – c. Foto
Fashion Pria 1870 dengan Anotasi
Dari Reforming Fashion, 1850-1914:
Politik, Kesehatan, dan Seni, Ohio State
University (https://web.archive.org/we
b/20060630041138/https://costume.o
su.edu/Reforming_Fashion/reformdres
s.htm)  :
Gaun teh brokat sutra Reda, c.
1876 (https://web.archive.org/we
b/20021029094209/http://costum
e.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/im
age_exhibition/tea54.htm)
Gaun teh challis coklat dengan
bahan kain Liberty of London, c.
 1877 (https://web.archive.org/we
 b/20030113234343/http://costum
e.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/im
age_exhibition/tea.htm)
"Fashion Wanita Abad ke-19" (http://w
ww.vam.ac.uk/page/0-9/19th-century-f
ashion/) . Mode, Perhiasan & Aksesori
. Museum Victoria dan Albert . Diakses
tanggal 09-12-2007 .
Gaun wanita, tahun 1870-an, di
Database Koleksi Online Staten Island
Historical Society (http://statenisland.
pastperfect-online.com/00039cgi/mw
eb.exe?request=record;id=64E4B200-E
76B-4A4E-804F-317458374025;type=1
01)
 Gaun anak perempuan, tahun 1870-an,
di Database Koleksi Online Staten
Island Historical Society (http://stateni
sland.pastperfectonline.com/webobje
ct/B02C5DCB-D9DF-4B81-9F67-85517
8037632)

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