GASTRONOMY IN THE PHILIPPINES Reviewer

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GASTRONOMY IN THE PHILIPPINES Association, "Food tourism is the act of

traveling for a taste of place in order to get a


sense of place."
Gastronomy, defined
Culinary or food tourism is the pursuit of
Gastronomy is the study of the relationship unique and memorable eating and drinking
between food and culture, the art of experiences, both near and far. Food
preparing and rich or delicate and tourism includes activities such as:
appetizing food, the cooking styles of  Cooking classes
particular regions, and the science of good  Food tours
eating.  Wine, beer and food festivals
 Specialty dining experiences
One who is well versed in gastronomy is  Market experiences
called a gastronome, while a gastronomist  Brewery Tours
is one who unites theory and practice in the  Food Producers’ Visits
study of gastronomy.
Filipino Cuisine, defined
What is Culinary Tourism? Filipino cuisine is composed of the cuisines
of more than a hundred distinct ethno-
Culinary tourism or food tourism is the linguistic groups found throughout the
exploration of food as the purpose of Philippine archipelago.
tourism. It is now considered a vital
component of the tourism experience. However, a majority of mainstream Filipino
Dining out is common among tourists dishes that compose Filipino cuisine are
and "food is believed to rank alongside from the cuisines of the various
climate, accommodation, and scenery" in ethnolinguistic groups and tribes of the
importance to tourists. archipelago, including the Ilocano,
Pangasinan, Kapampangan, Tagalog,
In other definition, culinary or food tourism is Bicolano, Visayan (Cebuano, Hiligaynon
the pursuit of unique and memorable eating and Waray), Chavacano and Maranao
and drinking experiences, both near and far. ethno-linguistic groups.

The style of food making and the food


The World Tourism Organization associated with it have evolved over many
(UNWTO) defines gastronomy tourism as centuries from their Austronesian origins
“a type of tourism activity which is (shared with Malaysian and Indonesian
characterized by the visitor’s experience cuisines) to a mixed cuisine of Indian,
linked with food and related products Chinese, Spanish and American influences,
and activities while travelling. Along with in line with the major waves of influence
authentic, traditional, and/or innovative that had enriched the cultures of the
culinary experiences, Gastronomy Tourism archipelago, as well as others adapted to
may also involve other related activities indigenous ingredients and the local palate.
such as visiting the local producers,
participating in food festivals and attending Distinct Characteristics of the Filipino
cooking classes. Cuisine

According to the World Food Travel  Filipino cuisine centers on the


combination of sweet (tamis), sour ingredient made only in Guimaras, where it
(asim), and salty (alat), although in Bicol, is sprinkled on cooked rice to serve as a
the Cordilleras and among Muslim Filipinos, side dish.
spicy (anghang) is a base of cooking flavor.  In Visayas, another souring agent in
dishes in the form of batuan (Garcinia
 Counterpoint is a feature in Filipino binucao) is used.
cuisine which normally comes in a
pairing of something sweet with something Gastronomic Tourism Profiles
salty, and results in surprisingly pleasing
combinations. To promote sustainable tourism
 Vinegar is a common ingredient. development in a destination, it is
 Cooking and eating in the Philippines has essential to understand gastronomy
traditionally been an informal and communal tourists and their perspective of tourism and
of gastronomy, as well as to know the
affair centered on the family kitchen. impact on destinations. It is useful to study a
 Food tends to be served all at once and variety of gastronomic profiles and interests
not in courses. in order to better understand how and when
 Food is often eaten using flatware— to act. Measuring the tourist experience is
forks, knives, spoons—but the primary also essential for improving, developing and
pairing of utensils used at a Filipino dining understanding the phenomenon, and for
table is that of spoon and fork, not knife and taking up the opportunities presented by
fork. gastronomy tourism.
 The traditional way of eating is with the
hands. The diner will take a bite of the main
dish, then eat rice pressed together with his
fingers Segmentation of gastronomy tourists and their
in-depth knowledge is a challenge for
Native Ingredients destinations. The profiles of gastronomy
 Kalamansi is the more known of those tourism consumers can be segmented by
ingredients, it is a fruit that belongs to the demographic variables (place
genus citrus. It is mostly used due to the of origin, age, sex, etc.), socio-economic
sourness it gives to a dish. variables (income, occupation, education, socio-
 Another is the tabon-tabon, a tropical fruit economic level, etc.), psychographic variables
which were used by pre-colonial Filipinos as (lifestyle, personality, values, interests, tastes,
opinions, etc.) and behavioural variables. But,
anti-bacterial ingredient especially in Kinilaw
to understand the gastronomy tourist, perhaps
dishes.
the
 The country also cultivates different type
most important variable is motivation because
of nuts and one of them is the pili nut, of
the place occupied by gastronomy in the
which the Philippines is the only known
exporter of edible varieties. It is usually tourist’s intention to travel to a destination may
made as a merienda or is incorporated in vary:
other desserts to enhance the flavor due to
the milky texture it gives off as it melts in the  Gastronomy is the main motive or experience
mouth. in the tourism activity;
 Tultul, a type of rock salt, is another  Gastronomy is a secondary experience or
motivation for travel, that is, it is a relevant
complement that gives significant added value Culinary tourism became prominent in 2001.
to travel; and The World Food Travel Association estimates
 Gastronomy forms part of the tourist’s that food and beverage expenses account for
routine. It meets the physiological need for 15% to 35% of all tourism spending, depending
food, on the affordability of the destination. The
in which case we would not be talking about a WFTA lists possible food tourism benefits as
gastronomy tourist. including more visitors, more sales, more media

Gastronomy tourist profiles can be drawn up


with the help of observation and research
(surveys, focus groups, expert panels, etc.)
and should be the basis for tourism product
design. To characterize and value the different
gastronomy tourism segments and profiles, and
to decide on
the target groups, aspects such as the following
should be taken into account:
 The size and potential of growth, that is, the
sales that might be generated in the activities
selected and foreseeable growth;
 The factors that a client in this segment
takes into account when deciding on which
gastronomic destination to visit (price,
nearness, convenience, service quality, extent
of offer, destination’s image, location, etc.); and

 The degree of competitiveness that exists in


competing destinations for attracting this type
of segment in comparison with the
destination under consideration.

Impacts of Culinary Tourism


attention, increased tax revenue, and greater - The rise of homegrown food and drink in a
community pride. destination pave way for building small-scale
restaurants and drink shops selling these
products.
LEVEL
- Social Entrepreneurship Community
-Description of the Experience Level (explains Empowerment Rise of SMEs in Food Guided
how is this important to building gastronomic Tours Souvenir Shops
profiles)
4: GASTRONOMIC TOURISM
-Measures that can be done to spur activity
- The combination of fresh produce, unique
LEVEL 1: AGRICULTURE food preparation, history, culture, traditions,
values, and business all form as one core
-As the source of food and drink are the product
producers of fresh produce, farms and markets
play a huge role in starting the gastronomic - Tour Packages centered in Food Tours
continuum. Tourists are curious on how these Gastronomy Tourism Development
unique food flavors are created and cultivated.
Tourism in gastronomic destinations are
thriving because of identity rather than
conformity. Tourists visit a destination because
CHAPTER 2
of its distinct, unique flavor identity. The rise of
homegrown food and drink in a destination EVOLUTION OF THE FILIPINO CUISINE
pave way for building small-scale restaurants
and drink shops selling these products. The Culinary history During the pre-Hispanic era in
combination of fresh produce, unique food the Philippines, the preferred Austronesian
preparation, history, culture, traditions, values, methods for food preparation were boiling,
and business all form as one core product. steaming and roasting. The ingredients for
Measures that can be done to spur activity common dishes were obtained from locally
Farm Tourism raised livestock. These ranged from water
buffalos/carabaos, chicken, and pigs to various
-Farm Tourism Oenological Studies (Wine kinds of fish and other seafood. In 3200 BCE,
Studies) Vineyard Tours Austronesians from southern China (Yunnan-
Guizhou Plateau) and Taiwan settled in the
region that is now called the Philippines. They
LEVEL 2: FOOD AND BEVERAGE PRODUCTS brought with them knowledge of rice cultivation
and other farming practices which increased the
- Tourism in gastronomic destinations are
number and variety of edible dish ingredients
thriving because of identity rather than
available for cooking.
conformity. Tourists visit a destination because
of its distinct, unique flavor identity

- Artisanal Products Organic/Homegrown Food Foreign influences on Filipino cuisine


and Drink
Ancient Spice trade route (blue) was used by
LEVEL 3: FOOD SERVICE LEVEL Indians and Chinese to trade with Filipinos and
other Southeast Asians. Both Spice trade route
and Silk Road (red) were blocked by the and peanut-based sauce, which alludes to a
Ottoman Empire in 1453 CE which spurred the type of curry.
Age of Discovery and European colonialism.
 Atchara originated from the Indian achar,
Filipino cuisine may be confusing to some which was transmitted via the acar of the
people due to it being hard to determine what Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei. Not to
is actually Filipino. Confusion occurs due to the mention that nasing biringyi is similar to Biryani.
consistent growing phases of Filipino culture.
Filipino culture has been constantly changing
throughout history, gaining influence from Arab influence via indirect trade
various cultures and inevitably has evolved.
Filipino food today has been shaped by history The Arab influence on Filipino cuisine is
and society of many unique and affluent relatively minor. Historically, Arabs influence
cultures. Influences from China, India, and arrived via India to Indonesia and the
Arabia are seen throughout Filipino food and Philippines. In the earlier days, Arabs traded
culture due to the agricultural trading of the with Indians, who in turn traded with Southeast
times. Influences from Spain and the United Asia. In the later era, with advancement of sea
States are seen through past colonization of the navigation, Arabs also started to trade directly
country. Filipino food can be studied and given with the Philippines.
a definition through the process of indigenizing Chinese influence
its people throughout centuries.
The Chinese had been trading with the
inhabitants of the Philippine archipelago since
Direct influence of India the early 9th or 10th centuries. Soon after, the
Chinese began to immigrate there in the 16th
Indian influences can also be noted in rice- century. Chinese influence is best seen in pancit
based delicacies such as: noodles and lumpia spring rolls. There are also
many ingredients such as soy sauce, black
 bibingka (analogous to the Indonesian
beans, tofu, pork, etc., that are seen in Filipino
bingka),
cooking.
 puto, and puto bumbong, where the latter
Direct trade and cultural exchange with Hokkien
two are plausibly derived from the south Indian
China in the Philippines in the Song dynasty
puttu, which also has variants throughout
(960–1279 AD) with porcelain, ceramics, and
Maritime Southeast Asia (e.g. kue putu, putu
silk being traded for spices and trepang in
mangkok).
Luzon.
 The kare-kare, more popular in Luzon, on the
This early cultural contact with China
other hand could trace its origins from the
introduced a number of staple food into Filipino
Seven Years' War when the British occupied
cuisine, most notably:
Manila for 2 years mostly with Sepoys (Indian
conscripts), who had to improvise Indian dishes  toyo (soy sauce; Chinese: 豆油: tāu-yu),
given the lack of spices in the Philippines to
make curry. This is said to explain the name and  tokwa; (tofu; Chinese: 豆干; tāu-koa),
its supposed thick, yellow-to-orange annatto  toge (bean sprout; Chinese: 豆芽; tāu-koa),
 and patis (fish sauce), as well as the method  Arroz a la valenciana remain largely the same
of stir frying and making savory soup bases. in the Filipino context.
Many of these food items and dishes retained
 Some have been adapted or have come to
their original Hokkien names, such as:
take on a slightly or significantly different
 pancit (Chinese: 便 ê 食; piān-ê-si ̍t)(Chinese: meaning. Arroz a la cubana served in the
扁食; biǎn shí), and Philippines usually includes ground beef called
picadillo.
 lumpia (Chinese: 潤餅; jūn-piáⁿ, lūn-piáⁿ).
 Philippine longganisa, despite its name, is
The food introduced during this period were
more akin to chorizo than Spanish longaniza (in
food of the workers and traders, which became
Visayan regions, it is still known as chorizo).
a staple of the noodle shops (panciterias), and
can be seen in dishes like arroz caldo (congee),  Morcon likely refers to a beef roulade dish,
sinangag (fried rice). not the bulbous specialty Spanish sausage.

Hispanic influence American colonial and ongoing influence

The Spanish came to the Philippines and ruled After the Spanish–American War in 1898, the
its islands by 1565 until 1898. Filipinos began United States controlled the Philippines due to
using the Spanish sofrito (tomatoes, onions, and the Treaty of Paris. US soldiers introduced
garlic cooked in oil) for their dishes. Many Filipinos to hot dogs, hamburgers, fried chicken,
cooking customs and techniques were adapted and ice cream. They also introduced convenient
as well as various dishes. foods such as spam, corned beef, instant coffee.
and evaporated milk.
Since the Spanish ruled both Mexico and the
Philippines, the two were inevitably connected Today, Filipino cuisine continues to evolve as
and they transported various goods between new techniques and styles of cooking, and
the two colonies. Spanish colonizers and friars ingredients find their way into the country.
in the 16th century brought with them produce Traditional dishes both simple and elaborate,
from the New World such as chili peppers, indigenous and foreign-influenced, are seen as
chocolate, corn, potatoes, tomatoes, are more current popular international dishes
pineapples, bell peppers, jicama (singkamas), and fast food fare. However, the Filipino diet is
chayote (sayote), avocado, peanuts, annatto higher in total fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol
(atsuete) and the method of sautéing with garlic than other Asian diets.
and onions. Chili leaves are frequently used as a
cooking green. The Mexicans received rice,
sugarcane, tamarind, coconuts, and mangoes
from the Philippine soil.
CHAPTER 4
Hispanic dishes were eventually incorporated
into Filipino cuisine with the more complex TRENDS IN PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMY
dishes usually being prepared for special Market Intelligence
occasions.
Q: Why should we look at the trends?
Some dishes such as:
By analyzing trends in gastronomy tourism, we
can find out about the context in which this
activity takes place. This gives us an idea about - Local companies will bring in more food
the main trends in the tourism sector, helps us establishments from abroad rather than build
understand the role played by gastronomy in their own brands from the ground up. Although
today’s societies – especially as a key element in doing so will require payment of steep franchise
cultural heritage, as an instrument for and royalty fees, it is justified by the instant
innovation and regional competitiveness, or as recognition of the brand, immediate market
a driver for the Sustainable Development Goals acceptance, a tried and proven business model,
(SDGs) – and reflects on the specific dynamics and savings on recipe development. A big
of gastronomy tourism and its possible impact incentive too is that foreign brands are more
on the strategic tourism proposal of the likely to secure prime retail spaces as opposed
destination. to their local counterparts.

Q: How should we look on to the trends? 2. Diversified Food Choices - Unlike in decades
past where only food establishments from the
The destination’s management entity should
US were immediately recognizable and
set up a system for market intelligence that
accepted, the market today is more open to
includes gastronomy tourism and allows the
brands coming from Japan, South Korea,
main trends to be observed and interpreted and
Taiwan, ASEAN, Australia, and the European
the planning and management processes to be
Union. This is due to the democratization of
improved.
travel among Filipinos and their exposure to
Diagram 1: Sources of Information in global food retailers.
Developing Market Intelligence Market
3. Evolving Filipino Food - The influx of foreign
Intelligence
brands will compel homegrown Filipino
Tourism Statistics concepts to up their game not only in food
quality and dining experience but also in terms
•International Sector (UNWTO) of recipes and presentation. In other words,
•Domestic Figures (Department of Tourism) Filipino cuisine will evolve quickly.

Trends from Digital Economy 4. Growing Online Food Deliveries - To reach a


younger demographic and to overcome the
•Social Networks (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, logistical barrier of traffic and parking, online
etc.) delivery services such as Foodpanda, Honestbee
•Travel Booking Platforms (Klook, Tripadvisor, (which temporarily halted Philippine operations
Booking.com) in April), and GrabFood will play a more
important role in every restaurant’s marketing
Scholarly Literature strategy. Filipinos have also adopted the habit
of making prior reservations before visiting full-
•Theses and Dissertations
service restaurants.
•Market Researches
5. Customized Food Deliveries - The increasing
Consumer Behavior demand for niche cuisine like halal, keto, pure
organic, and vegan will compel many
Current Trends in Philippine Gastronomy 1.
restaurants and private chefs to offer these
Foreign Competition
options by way of online delivery platforms.
6. Rise of Emerging Food Destinations - Due to balance is comprised of European, American,
the high rental costs and market cannibalization and Middle Eastern concepts. Asian restaurants
among malls and commercial centers, will continue to dominate this category in terms
restaurateurs will begin mushrooming in of market share and customer preference.
uncustomary sites. These include food trucks in
11. Unstoppable Quick-Service Restaurants -
high-traffic areas, residential villages,
The fast-food category posts the highest growth
commercial spaces in the upper floors of
rate in the years to come expanding by 12%
buildings and even home dining rooms.
year on year. Interestingly, fast-food sales inside
7. Wine Tourism - The Philippines is one of the convenience stores will grow at a more
fastest growing markets for wines with imports phenomenal rate of 32%, thanks to their
seen to top $121 million this year. While the A improving quality and democratic price. Fast-
and Upper B classes have become discerning food chains are seen to expand their product
about wines, the broad B and C markets are offerings to sustain demand even if it
beginning to follow suit given their rising encroaches on other food concepts. For
incomes and evolving taste. Thus, restaurants instance, we will soon see burger chains
with the wider range of wines of various grapes, offering pizza, chicken chains offering salads,
origins, and price points will have the and pizza chains offering rice meals.
advantage. The wine list will become an
12. Slow growth for food kiosks - Growth in the
important deciding factor as to whether an
food kiosk category will not exceed 5% due to
establishment is patronized or not. This applies
market saturation. In this category, the name of
to both fine-dining and casual-dining
the game is novelty and low prices. Those that
restaurants.
enter the food kiosk scene selling dimsum,
8. Cuisine Curiosity and Authenticity - A recent shawarma, popcorn, and Jamaican patties will
market study revealed that Filipinos are only be clobbered by mega-chains who have carved
willing to patronize a restaurant offering non- their own army of loyal customers. The more
mainstream cuisine (e.g. Latin American, ingenious, innovative, and affordable the
European, or Caribbean) if the chef, proprietor, product offerings are, the higher the chances of
or face of the brand hails from that country. success.
Skepticism is high toward Filipino restaurateurs
*According to Andrew Masigan, economist
offering exotic menus.

9. Increasing popularity of artisanal coffee and


gastropubs - Demand for artisanal will continue
to rise given their superior value proposition.
The same is true for gastropubs or
establishments that offer high quality food
along with specialty alcoholic options.

10. Rise of Asian Restaurants - Independent


players dominate the full-service restaurant
category. The rest are independently owned.
Asian themed restaurants (Chinese, Japanese,
and Filipino) account for 67% of some 19,000
full-service restaurants in operation today, the

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