Parametrized Garment Pattern Manipulation for the Men’s

Suit
Wonseop Lee Hyeong-Seok Ko
Seoul National University Seoul National University
1 Gwanak-ro, Gwanak-Gu 1 Gwanak-ro, Gwanak-Gu
Seoul, Korea Seoul, Korea
82 2 880 1804 82 2 880 1780
wslee@graphics.snu.ac.kr ko@graphics.snu.ac.kr

ABSTRACT manipulation of garment pattern is more advanced level.

The method for making men's suits has long been established and
developed manually. Starting from measuring the customer’s
body size, tailor drafts the garment patterns and construct then
into suit model. With the advance of machine, most of suit
making processes have been automatized. However, drafting
garment pattern still remains in the manual work. This paper
proposes the parameterized garment drafting system for the men’s
suit utilizing only 5 body sizes. Once user provides required 5
body sizes to the proposed system, garment patterns are generated
automatically. After passing through the positioning and sewing
process, 2D garment patterns are converted to the 3D garment
model. The 3D garment model would be draped on the virtual
body model using physically-based simulation. The fitting
evaluation would be performed to check the suitability of draped
garment. If there were implausible result, then it is required to
modify the garment to reduce the implausibility. To modify the fit
of the men’s suit, this paper proposes pattern modification method
using secondary parameters.
Generally, garment patterns are obtained by drafting using the
customer’s body sizes as an input. In the tailoring field, garment
patterns are drafted by pattern-maker according to their own
distinct drafting scheme. Depending on the drafting scheme,
participating sizes are different. This paper adopts the drafting
scheme that uses only 5 body sizes to obtain the garment patterns.
During the drafting, certain lengths are needed for drawing partial
region such as armhole. We define those lengths as secondary
parameters. Figure 1 shows the result of creating garment pattern
using proposed method. The obtained 2D garment patterns are
transferred to 3D space and sewed to be constructed as 3D
garment model that would be fit to the customer’s body model.
The 3D garment model is draped onto the 3D body model to
evaluate the fit. The virtual 3D body model is parameterized
which can be generated by deformation according to the size input.
Garment pattern modification is achieved by manipulating
secondary parameters.

CCS Concepts
• Applied computing➝Operations research➝Computer-aided
manufacturing.

Keywords
Pattern making; Garment modification; Clothing Simulation;
Virtual garment visualization.

1. INTRODUCTION
Along with the growth of the fashion industry, mass production of
the garment is popularized. However, for the men’s suit, it is more
general to tailor personalized suit (made-to-measure) rather than
ready-made-clothes. Unfortunately, tailoring personalized suit is
still not in the region of mass production. Since it requires
professional knowledge, practical experience and skills, the entry
barrier of creating the garment pattern is very high. Moreover,
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ICDSP 2019, February 24–26, 2019, Jeju Island, Republic of Korea
© 2019 Association for Computing Machinery.
ACM ISBN 978-1-4503-6204-7/19/02…$15.00
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/3316551.3316575
Figure 1. Garment patterns of men's suit (jacket)
2. RELATED WORK
Garment modeling. The most basic and traditional way to model
garments is to draw draft pattern. As noted above, it is
sophisticated work. To make it easier, methods that creates
garment model from extracting features of body [1; 2] and
combining existing garment components in database [3] are
developed.[4] proposed the pattern making method starting from
the 2D outline of garment flats. After modifying the design and
constructing a 3D garment model, 2D garment patterns are created
by dividing and flattening. The sewing operation is time-
consuming and repetitive work for 3D garment model. [5]
presented automatic system by extracting sewing patterns from
garment model.

147
Garment fitting. Fitting the garment to the target body model is
one of the complicated issues because it should consider both the
garment and the body model. [6] used body profile templates to
represent the garment model using encoding and decoding.
Volumetric deformation is widely used for garment fitting [6; 8;
9]. With the segmentation of the body model, pose-independent
fitting is possible [10]. The design of the original garments can be
maintained by a sequential process of the proportional scaling and
optimization process [11]. The graded garments would be draped
to the various body pose using skeleton-driven body
representation [12].
Pattern editing. After the draping is finished, users may want to
modify the garment design. To accomplish the purpose, [13]
developed the pattern-editing method using alteration of feature
curves on the pattern. [14] proposed interactive garment design
tools that enables bidirectional and immediate editing transfer
between 2D and 3D garment model. [15] presented a pattern
adjustment system based on the physics-aware method that
directly modifies the garment pattern in 3D space and computes
2D patterns automatically. To create a new garment, the method
for mixing two different garments is also proposed. [16] proposed
the iterative garment modification method which reduces
evaluated misfits. It defines 5 panel operations, and the sequence
of panel operation modifies the pattern. Although it follows the
drafting rules but it has slight limitation of preserving the original
shape as it is.
Fitting evaluation. Evaluation of garment fitting has been
researched in both computer graphics and fashion field. Many
researchers tried various methods to quantify the evaluation result.
In the previous work, garment fitting was evaluated by comparing
horizontal cross-sectional area between the garment and human
body model [17; 18], calculating garment pressure during the
physically-based simulation [19]. Especially for men’s shirt,
measuring shoulder angle was used [20]. [16] defined fitting
evaluation system so called ‘misfit measure’. The misfit is
evaluated by the difference between body and garment landmark
point/lines.
Figure 2. Secondary parameters on the garment pattern.
3. METHOD
3.1 Parameterized Pattern Making
This paper proposes a parameterized pattern making method for
men’s suit. Basically, the proposed method adopts drafting
148
scheme from [21] and reduces it to use only 5 major body
measurements for pattern-making. Those dominatingly affect
determining the shape of the garment pattern. For example, in our
pattern-making for the men’s jacket, the followings are used as
the major measurement: Stature (H), Chest Circumference (CC),
Bi-shoulder Length (S), Shoulder Angle (SA), Arm Length (AL).
The abbreviations in the parentheses are representing each major
body measurement. Hereafter, those abbreviations are used.
3.2 Secondary Parameters
In the process of parameterized pattern making, specific values
that describe particular region are required. As noted in the
previous section, those values can be represented as a function of
major measurement. The functional correspondence between
major measurement and secondary parameters is listed in Table 1
and visualized in Figure 2.
Table 1. List of Secondary Parameters
① Front panel height = f (CC) ⑧ Pocket width = f (CC)
② Waist height = f (H, CC) ⑨ Collar width = f (CC)
③ Shoulder width = f (S) ⑩ Collar height = f (CC)
④ Shoulder slope = f (SA) ⑪ Sleeve width = f (CC)
⑤ Armhole width = f (CC) ⑫ Sleeve height = f (AL)
⑥ Armhole height = f (H, CC) ⑬ Elbow height = f (AL)
⑦ Front fly = f (CC)
Since the major measurements dominate the shape of the garment
pattern, it is obvious that changing the value of H or BC (the
major measurements) may bring the 1) modification of the entire
shape of the garment pattern and 2) unwanted result. On the other
hand, the secondary parameters are the end value and covers small
region in the pattern. Therefore, modifying the value of secondary
parameter itself has little effect to other region. (See Figure 2)
3.3 Evaluation of Fitting Degree
To evaluate the fitting degree of draped virtual men’s jacket, this
paper adopts the method proposed by [16]. The proposed method
uses ‘misfit value’ that indicates how the fitting result is proper
using difference between body and garment landmarks.
3.3.1 Body model
To perform draping simulation, body models are required to put
the garment on. The body model used in this paper is
parameterized one so that users can create a body model that is
deformed to represent the user’s various body sizes.
3.3.2 Initial Try-on
Before evaluating the fitting degrees, a well-draped garment is
required, because ill-draped garment would bring wrong
evaluation result regardless of the outcome of fitting. For example,
assume that a male customer is in the tailor shop to baste his suit.
Putting the suit on the right position of customers’ body comes
first. In a similar way, the proposed method starts from those
conditions.
3.4 Pattern Modification
Typically, modification of the pattern follows the drafting scheme.
It utilizes secondary parameters that participate in pattern making.
Once the garment is created, the value of secondary parameters is
determined. The garment pattern is modified by changing the
value of secondary parameters. Figure 3 shows the examples of
 Figure 3. Pattern modification using secondary parameters: grey(original), blue(increased) and pink(decreased).
Figure 4. Experiment results of men's suit (jacket).
the pattern modification. The color of original pattern is grey. The
modification from increasing the value is shown as blue colored
pattern and decreasing the value is shown as red colored pattern.
Consider the Figure 3 (a), it is the result of manipulating the value
of ‘Front panel height’. The blue pattern has bigger value and the
red pattern has smaller value against the original pattern (grey).
After finishing evaluation of the fit, users are aware of where and
how much to modify for the better fit result. The second
parameter is changed as much as the result of the fitting where it
is judged to be implausible. Assume the case that the sleeve
circumference is 3cm longer than the measurement, modification
process decreases the value of ‘Sleeve width’ as the amount of
3cm (See Figure 3 (d)
4. RESULT
Using proposed pattern modification methods, we modify the
men’s jacket to have better fit. According to the method [16],
body landmark lines are shown as blue line on the body model.
Similarly, garment landmark lines are shown as grey lines on the
3D garment model. The purpose of modification is to match grey
and blue lines. Starting from initial state (Figure 4 (a)), using
secondary parameters based modification, we obtained the proper
result shown in Figure 4 (b). Figure 4 (c) shows the comparison of
the 2D garment pattern before (grey panels) and after (blue panels)
fitting. The orange line in 2D garment pattern (Figure 4 (c)) is
identical to grey line on 3D garment model (Figure 4 (b)).
5. CONCLUSION
This paper proposes the parameterized method to generate
garment pattern for men’s suit in automatic way. It takes 5
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measurements from the user. Using parametrization, proposed
method can cover the garment from varying body size such as S,
M, L and XL. This paper defines the secondary parameters to
draw and to control the particular region in garment pattern. The
proposed pattern modification method utilizes the secondary
parameters. Changing the value of secondary parameters enables
users to modify the particular region without large affection to
other regions.
The scope of our study is limited to the men’s jacket. In the future
work, we will extend proposed method to the entire components
of men’s suit such as pants, shirts and so on.
6. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This work was supported in part by the National Research
Foundation of Korea (NRF) funded by the Ministry of Education,
Science and Technology (MEST) (NO.2015R1A2A1A10055178,
NRF-2018M3E3A1057302), the Brain Korea 21 Plus Project in
2018, and ASRI (Automation and Systems Research Institute at
Seoul National University).
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