The City & Guilds Textbook Level 2 Hairdressing and Barbering for the Technical Certificates

Wrap setting
Wrap setting is where you section, comb and then wrap the wet hair
around the head in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction. This wrapping
of the hair around the head mean that the contours of the head form the
finished shape of the hair. The hair is dried under a hood dryer for up to
90 minutes and then dressed out into a straight smooth style. This setting
method is popular on African type hair and very curly hair, and the use of
styling products such as Africare foam wrap setting lotion are very
important in order to achieve the end result.

Pin curling
Pin curling involves a setting technique of winding without the aid of a
▲ Wrap set roller. Great skill and hand dexterity are required, and once this craft is
mastered it is a skill in its own right! You may not need to set without
Activity the aid of rollers often, but imagine going to a photo shoot or visiting
Practise these setting winds and a bride’s home to style their hair, only to find you do not have enough
time yourself. rollers, or worse, you have forgotten them! The ability to pin curl gives
great curl results and the hair dries much faster than when it is tightly
Key term wrapped around a roller. Using pin curls to set dry hair after a round
Dexterity – precise and flexible brush blow-dry provides longevity and hold to the styled hair.
handling. These curls are created by a wet setting technique. The section patterns
and winding techniques can be the same as for winding with a roller, and
the hair is wound from point to root.
Pin curls can be used on very straight African type hair or on woven
hairstyles. Hair that is texturised or curly may not be suitable for this
hairstyle, as the hair may be too frizzy when dry and the finished curl will
not be structured enough.

Pin curls for volume

To create curls with root lift and volume, you can use ‘stand-up’ pin curls,
sometimes called barrel curls. Use a suitable product and comb the wet
hair upwards, at about 90° to the head. Roll the hair downwards from
point to root, without a roller. Secure the hair on-base with a pin curl clip.
This technique produces soft curls or waves and volume.

▲ Pin curls for volume ▲ Final look

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 Chapter 5 Unit 204 Style, set and dress hair

Pin curls for flat movement

To create movement through the hair but without root lift and volume,
you can use ‘lie-down’ pin curls, sometimes called a flat barrel curl.
After you have applied a suitable styling product, comb the wet hair
downwards at about 45° and feed the hair through your fingers to create
a flat, open-coiled curl. Secure the hair off-base with a pin curl clip. This
technique produces flat movement and waves throughout the hair.

▲ Pin curls for flat movement ▲ Final look

Clock-spring pin curls for flat movement

For ‘clock-spring’ pin curls follow the technique described above for
pin curls for flat movement, but feed the hair through your fingers and
create a closed-in coiled curl that is smaller in the centre and gradually
gets larger towards the outside of the coil. Clock-spring pin curls create
flat movement that has tighter curls and body at the ends of the
hair, where the coil was at its tightest, and gradually loosens towards
the root.
▲ Clock-spring pin curl
Removing setting items
Care must always be taken when removing rollers from the hair. If you
have cleanly wound the hair around the roller with even tension, then
rollers should be easily removed from the hair. Once the hair is dried
(or cooled) you should remove the pin and gently unwind the roller,
maintaining even tension through out to avoid catching the hair and
causing discomfort.
Equally, when removing heated tongs or wands from the hair after
winding, be careful not to burn you or the client and leave the hair to
cool and set in place before any dressing takes place.

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