FINE SPINNERS (UGANDA) LIMITED

PLOT 33A-41A SPRING ROAD,

KISWA ZONE 8, BUGOLOBI
P.O BOX 7411, KAMPALA
UGANDA

QUALITY MANUAL

Issued Date: 25th MAY 2021

Expected revised date after 12 month

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 Table of Contents
Description Page
1. Introduction …………………………………………………………………………………………….. 4
2. Our Vision, Our Mission …………………………………………………………………………….. 5
3. Quality Management System …………………………………………………………………….. 6
4. Quality Motto & Quality Policy …………………………………………………………….…….. 7
5. The 5 Critical Processes ………………………………………………………………..………….. 8
6. Departmental Responsibility ………………………………………………………….………….. 9
7. Sampling ……………………………………………………………………………..………………….. 11
8. QC File …………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 12
9. Submission of Bulk Fabric/ Trims ……………………………………..………….…………….. 13
10. Color Assessment …………………………………………………………………………………….. 13
11. Fabric Shade band Submission ………………………………………………………………….. 14
12. Laboratory Testing ………………………………………………….……………………………….. 15
13. Fabric & Trims/ Accessories Inspections, Tests …………….………….………………….. 17
14. Preproduction Review Meeting ……………………………………………………………….….. 23
15. In process Quality Inspections ………………………………………………….……………….. 24
16. Standard make Inspections ……………………………………………………………………….. 25
17. QC Check Points …………………………………………………….…………………….………….. 29
18. Spreading & Cut Parts Inspections ………………………………………….………………….. 30
19. Fusing Procedures ………………………………………………………….………………….…….. 31
20. Start up Production Line …………………………………………….…………………………….. 32
21. The Inline Inspections …………………………………………….…….………………………….. 33
22. TOP/ Rack/ Shipment Samples ………………………………………………………………….. 35
23. Garment Washing & Finishing …………….…………………………………………………….. 36
24. Finishing ………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 37
25. Random Inspection Method …..………………………………………………………………….. 39
26. AQL …………………………………………………………….………………………………………….. 40
27. Pre final & Final Inspections …………………………….……………………………………….. 42
28. Classification of Defects …………………………………………………………………………….. 49
29. Acceptability of a Shipment ……………………………………………………………………….. 50
30. Fault Categories ……………………………………………………………………………………….. 51
31. QC Inspections Reports …………………………………………………………………………….. 56

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32. Closing Meeting after Inspections ………………………………………………..…………….. 57
33. Shipment Release Procedure ……………………………………………………….…………….. 59
34. 5S System ……………………………………………………………………………………………….. 60

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1. Introduction
This manual cannot cover all areas of each job role, but it is hoped that from the
information contained within, all staff will be able to make correct decisions and judgments
as required.

a) Quality is the level of acceptance of a good or service.

b) Quality Assurance (QA) is a way of preventing mistakes and defects in
manufactured products and avoiding problems when delivering products or services
to customers.

c) Quality Control (QC) is used to describe the fifth phase of the Define, Measure,
Analyze, Improve, and Control (DMAIC) model which is a data-driven quality strategy
used to improve processes.

d) Quality Management System (QMS) is a set of policies, processes and

procedures required for planning and execution (production/development/service) in
the core business area of an organization (i.e., areas that can impact the
organization’s ability to meet customer requirements).

e) Quality Manual is a top-level document that describes an organizations quality

management system (QMS) that can be used both internally (for employees) and
externally (for customers and auditors).

f) Quality policy provides direction and a vision for an organization.

g) Quality scope provides what parts of the organization does the QMS cover or not
cover.

h) Quality system processes indicate what the key activities that occur at the
organization.

i) Management responsiveness reveals who are senior management and what is

their involvement with the QMS.

j) A flowchart is a type of diagram that represents a work flow or process

In Fine Spinners Uganda Limited, the manufacturing Quality Manual specifies how our
quality & technical staff should perform in the company.
Everyone within the company is working guided by the same guidelines and therefore
maintaining a consistent high level of quality.

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Quality is not just the quality of the product, but quality of all performance related areas
below: i) Quality of product
ii) Quality of work
iii) Quality of service / communication
iv) Quality of information
v) Quality of process
vi) Quality of department
vii) Quality of people
viii) Quality of system
ix) Quality of objectives

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2. Our Vision and Mission
2.1 VISION
To attain customer satisfaction by delivering nothing but the
best, by means of utilizing the highest quality of resources and
world-class systems.
We will always endeavor to satisfy our customers' needs and
exceed expectations through win-win relationships and delight
them.
“We believe in business as a force for good”
We believe that through businesses we can transform the world;
a new way of doing business exists in which the final goal is not
purely financial profit but transformation as well.
It´s Time to Change.

2.2 MISSION
To create an ethical, sustainable and eco-efficient apparel
industry.
We aim to become the business partner of our clients,
accompanying them through their process of change, and adding
value at each step. Offering them disruptive quality production
that breaks the norm, enabling innovative and transformative
ways of doing things.
And we do it following our “The Best in service” initiative, with
the rigor and service quality of highest level, but with the
capability to react and the closeness of a local business. We
inspire loyalty in our clients by providing them with the best
quality production service that they have ever experienced.

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3. Quality Management System

QMS is a collection of business processes focused on consistently meeting customer

requirements and enhancing their satisfaction.

Structure of the Quality Management System

PLAN IMPLEMENT

IDENTIFY ASSESS
REQUIREMENT QUALITY
S MANAGEMENT
SYSTEM

LESSONS MEASURE
LEARNED

CONTINOUS MONITOR
IMPROVEMENT

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4. Quality Motto & Quality Policy
4.1 Quality Motto
1ST TIME 1ST RIGHT: ZERO TOLERANCE TO DEFECTS
TOGETHER WE CAN *If we Follow S.O.Ps with self-discipline*

MACHINE OPERATOR “MUST DO” POLICY:

STITCH CHECK TRIM RULE

4.2 Quality Policy

It is the Fine Spinners’ objective to be recognized as the apparel manufacturer with the
capability of cutting, sewing, finishing, and exporting high quality products for our
customers.

To achieve this, we are committed to:

Customer Satisfaction
• Providing our customers with products and that meet or exceed their requirements.

Continual Improvement
• Measuring improvement of the effectiveness of our business and its management and
operating systems.

Employees
• Providing training to employees to promote Continual Improvement.
• Empowering our employees to use their skills and talents to achieve the quality policy
and business plan objectives.

Environment
• Maintaining operations that protect the environment and the natural resources of our
communities and our nation.

Safety
• Providing a safe work environment for our employees and visitors at all times.
• Supplying products and services that are fit for purpose & safe to use.

Management System
• Maintaining a management system compliant to ISO 9001 and applicable legal and
regulatory requirements.
• Reviewing our management system on a continual basis for its robustness and integrity.
• Setting and reviewing performance objectives to meet our business goals.

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5. The Five Critical Processes
Fine Spinners Uganda Limited is dedicated to manufacturing the highest possible quality
apparel for our customers. To meet our customers’ expectation and requirements, fine
spinners QA has developed a quality assurance program to achieve the objectives of five
critical processes:

a) Factory evaluation

Fine Spinners’ QA team will conduct factory evaluation and inspections to ensure the
company is capable of producing the right quality and provide the production capacity that
our customers require.

b) Quality system and Social compliance audit

The company management team with a group of auditors will conduct quality system
audits and 2nd party social compliance audits, if requested and also liaise with customer
appointed 3rd party auditor to run the external social compliance audit programs.

c) Technical Assessment

Garment technologists / technicians allocated to this Strategic Business Unit will do the
following:
• Set up fit standards by how to measure, base patterns and grading rules.
• Conduct detailed technical assessment at the product development stage.
• Review all aspects of garment technicalities.
• Agree the quality standards with customers and factories prior to production.
• Ensure the integrity of product package released to manufacturers.

d) Laboratory testing

• International Laboratory Service conducts textile testing to ensure quality.

• Liaise with customers and other commercial laboratory to be the service provider for
laboratory testing.
• To ensure products compliance with all local laws and regulations of the destination
markets.

e) Quality Control

• The last line of defense.

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• Pre-production review – ensure the production personnel understands customers quality
requirements and take pro-active steps to control quality throughout the full manufacturing
process.
• Pre-production sample / pilot production approval - Support the factories by providing
technical guidance to the sewing operatives.
• Pre-shipment inspections- to assure product meets the buyer quality & safety
requirements.

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6. Departmental Responsibility
6.1 Management

a) To ensure the requirements of the manual are implemented and maintained

b) To communicate regularly with all parties involved so that difficulties and suggestions
will be recognized.

c) Furthermore, the requirements and development of the company can be conveyed.

d) To spot check the quality records and operating procedures.

e) To be involved in the management review of the manual.

6.2 Merchandising Department

a) To liaise between customers and factories so that the requirements of the customer
can be fully understood and conveyed
b) To present customer and suppliers information to QA department, in an order that is
suitable standard/specification can be used for inspection. This can be supported by
completing all the specified documents.

c) Factory sourcing to obtain a good quality product and a wide variety of options.

6.3 Quality Assurance Department

a) Quality Assurance.
b) Social compliance monitoring.

c) Upgrade the quality systems of the suppliers systematically.

d) Approve samples of new product development.

e) Provide technical support for merchandising department

f) Maintain a QC library with international and individual customer standards

g) Conduct planned and systematic inspections to ensure the product and service will
satisfy the quality requirement.

h) Initiate action to prevent the occurrence of product nonconformity.

i) Shipping & Accounting

j) To ensure all documentation for shipments is sent to the customer in sufficient time for
them to conduct import procedures before docking of vessels / air-lifting the goods.
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 k) To ensure all payments are implemented on due date, therefore maintaining a good
working relationship with our sources.

l) To check all L/C’s are received from customers within time for shipment and that the
documents conform to those requested.

6.4 Job responsibility of the Technical Team

6.4.1 Technical Manager
a) Support the merchandising and technical team to achieve buyer’s fit requirements.
b) Work with vendors and customers to set up fit standard, base block pattern and grading
rules.
c) Set up product guidelines, fabric and trim quality standards and testing protocols .

6.4.2 Garment Technologist / Technician

a) To assist vendor to achieve buyer’s fit requirements.
b) To perform fit sample evaluation.
c) Review and sign off technical packs to ensure the integrity of information released to
vendors.
d) Provide technical advices / comments to vendors.
6.5 Job responsibility of QC Team

6.5.1 QC Manager
a) To supervise and manage the QC teams.
b) To organize and schedule all inspections
c) To evaluate the performance of all inspectors and their inspection report.
d) To assure fine spinners products meet buyer’s requirement.
e) To evaluate factories’ quality performance.
f) To provide factory audit training.
g) To perform new vendor survey.
h) To control QC expenses.

6.5.2 QC supervisor (QA)

a) To supervise and co-ordinate a group of QCs.
b) To review and update production status reports to QA manager
c) To perform factory evaluations and update QA manager.
d) To evaluate QC files and pre-production samples.
e) To perform pre-production checks.
f) To review the efficiency of visiting schedule made by QCs.
g) To evaluate QC performance.
h) To evaluate factories’ performance.
i) To review QC expenses.

6.5.3 Quality Controller

a) Perform operational techniques and activities that are used to fulfill quality
requirements.
b) These activities involve:
c) Check packing accuracy.
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 d) Measuring.
e) Examining the product quality.
f) Identifying and recording any product quality problems.
g) Assessing product conformity and determining release of shipment.
h) Updating QC activity module.
i) To perform pre-production check.
j) To perform in-line inspections.
k) To perform Pre-final inspections.
l) To report production status and factory activity to QA manager and merchandising
staff.
m) Evaluate shipment samples / top samples as required.

6.5.4 QC Coordinator (Clerk)

a) To provide clerical support to QA/QC department.
b) To set up all clerical files for QA/QC department.
c) To centralize inspection reports.
d) To update QC action calendar in our quality system.

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7. Sampling

1. Styling Sample
At first, we need to make a styling sample for getting styling approval as per buyer’s
specification, fitting & workmanship. Everything we need to follow as original sample &
comments. For styling samples, we give fabric & accessories similar to original color or
approved lap dip. We, make a paper pattern of sample size as a buyer requirement. As per
styling sample comments, we make the size set pattern.

2. Size Set Sample

Size set sample covering all sizes & covering all sizes & colors. All actual fabric &
accessories are used for styling samples. Must adjust the pattern as require fittings,
grading, workmanship according to approval specification & comments

3. Pre-Production Sample (P.P Sample)

For the final configuration of styling fitting & workmanship, before state production we
make another size set sample covering all size & color for approval. After receiving PP
sample comments, manufacturer meets all of the buyer requirements, then start bulk
production.

4. Counter Sample
In every step of sampling, we keep a counter sample with marking the sample name. The
pre-production sample counter should follow with PP comments for bulk production. We
make a copy of the PP sample with comments to give every line in production.

5. Shipment Sample
The shipment sample has to prepare for buyer 15 days before shipment covering all sizes
& colors with all actual accessories. These requirements vary from buyer to buyer. We
always fulfill our buyer’s requirements.

6. Trial Cutting
We cut a small quantity of garments approximate 60 -100pcs as a 1st trail to set the
line/layout, set the machines, to get operators preparedness & see the measurement. If
any correction is required then we do it accordingly. After full confirmation, we start pre
bulk cutting.

7. Pilot Run/Size Run

A pilot run is a small cut across all sizes & colors that will identify & potential problems in
manufacturing prior to the factory cutting bulk. The inspection of the pilot run should be
carried out by the factory Quality Control (QC).
Pilot Lots are required when:
 A new fabric is being introduced and the factory has not been handled before.
 The machine setting must be re-evaluated and set accordingly.
 New construction methods are being introduced for critical fit tests.
 New machinery or new settings are being introduced.

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 To ensure that shrinkage allowances built into patterns are corrected for steam
shrinkage, washing shrinkage, fusing, printing, or any other after treatment to standard.

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8. QC file
1. The merchandisers are responsible to provide a complete QC file to QA department.
2. The merchandisers need to set up QC file when receive any form of ‘order confirmation’
from buyers.

3. To ensure the QA / QC process is handled effectively, all documents for each style are
controlled by one filing system. Merchandisers transfer the final confirmed style
information to the QC file.

4. Merchandiser / Senior Merchandisers are responsible for keeping the file up to dated, and
signing it off when it is released to QA dept.

Keep these QC file organized;

1. Contracts - Customer/maker signed back copies of PO Sheets.
2. Order Status Reports - To be filed at front of all sub-sections for easy reference.
3. Style information Sheet / Sketch - Artwork + extra information on style.
4. Sample cards/Comments - All sample cards / customer comments on samples / size spec
approvals in date order.
5. Trim Cards - Cards to show approved accessories / bulk.
6. Fabric Cards - Cards to show approved fabric quality / lab-dips / bulk.
7. Fabric testing reports - Copy of test reports for all fabric and trims.
8. Size Specification - Graded production size chart.
9. In/Out email to buyer - Only insert the relevant emails containing QC information which
does not relate to other sub-sections. Relevant sections of the email must be highlighted.
10.In/Out email to factory - Only insert the relevant emails containing QC information which
does not relate to other sub-sections. Relevant sections of the email must be highlighted.
11.QC reports - In-line and final inspection reports.
12.Packing List - All to be placed at front of file upon receipt.
13.Remark: All accessories and fabrics that have been approved must be chopped
‘APPROVED’.

Product release – the handover of QC files

The QC file is a key instrument in the QC procedure. If this document is not completed
accurately by both the Merchandising and QA team, inspections cannot be carried out
successfully.

1. Merchandisers must pass the following information to QC to enable them to complete the
inspections:
Approval sample with Customer seal tag
QC files with full approval details
Customer AQL Level required

2. Hand over style files before arranging inspection

A minimum of 2 weeks before the pre-production review meeting, the QC must contact the
relevant merchandiser to get the QC file & clarify all details preferable in a meeting or
otherwise at least by phone.

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3. Return of QC file to merchandisers
Quality Controllers are responsible for returning the file to QA manager.
Within 1 week after successful final inspection, the QC must return the QC file to the QA manager.
After the manager signs off QC reports, the files will be returned to merchandising department .
9. Submission of Bulk Fabric/ Trims
a) For proper color coordination between different materials, factory should put all
fabric & trims used for this order on a fabric & accessory card and submit to Fine
Spinners’ merchandisers for review and sign off.
b) Factory must submit the bulk quality of all fabric and trims for Customer approval
before commencing bulk cutting.
c) No bulk production can begin until the merchandiser has signed off the completed
fabric / trim card or at least seen and approved all components being put into
production.
d) As soon as all fabric and trims are received by the factories, a fabric approval card
and trim approval card must be completed by the sample maker.
e) Factories merchandiser must submit their trim cards to the relevant buyer
merchandisers who are responsible for the sign off of trim card for approval.
f) The quality of fabric is checked against the buyer approval standards.
g) The quality of trims is checked against the buyer approval standards.
h) Merchandiser must check bulk against approval standard.
i) A copy of duly signed off fabric & accessory card is filed in the QC file.
j) The fabric approval card and trim approval card should contain the approved
samples & approval chop of merchandisers and / or customers.

10. Color assessment

a) Is the process to assess and approve the color of all fabrics and trims used to
produce a garment
b) This procedure applies to the color assessment done in the factories. The
merchandisers should agree and confirm the standard lighting condition.
c) All maintenance managers/ QC managers should maintain a list of standard lighting
condition specified by each customer.

Responsibility
1. Factories submit the fabric approval cards and trim approval cards to buyer
merchandisers
2. Fine spinners merchandisers are responsible for check and sign off the color of fabric
and trim.
3. Merchandise Manager / QC manager are responsible for the update of the “standard
lighting condition” and displace the standard to the light box.

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Light boxes
1. All color assessment must be carried out in a light box placed in the dark room
or black out curtain.
2. For US standard, the recommended brand name is Gretag Macbeth.
3. There is LED as primary source & artificial daylight D65 as secondary source
among other lights as TL 84, U.V. in this light box.

Metamerism
1. All colors show up different shades under different light sources, this is known
as Metamerism.
2. All fabric needs to be checked under yellow light and white light.
3. If white light (D65, CWF) or yellow light (TL 84, U30) as primary source for
color assessment, the other light source should be used to check the
Metamerism.
4. Color submissions must not have any Metamerism effects using white light and
yellow light as illuminate.

Instrumental color assessment

1. For certain customers, they require a reading of the Data color 600CT
spectrophotometer on color assessment.
2. The acceptable color differences between separate dye lots should be: Delta E 0.84
or less.

11. Fabric Shade Band Submission

1. To ensure consistent shade, swatches from every roll & lot must be collected and
placed on the “Color Continuity Card” for color assessment.
2. All factories need to complete the bulk fabric shade band submission.
3. No bulk production can begin until the QC manager & merchandiser has signed off the
Color Continuity card.
4. Factories submit the Color Continuity Cards to buyer QA representative.
5. Fine spinners merchandisers are responsible for the sign off of Color Continuity Cards
6. Collect swatches - Samples must be taken from every bulk lot of main and trim fabric.
During the fabric inspection, the factory should cut the color samples from each roll or
each dye lot displaying the range of color variation. Swatches must be taken from the
start and end of the roll. Write the corresponding lot/roll number for identification.
7. Garment wash - The swatches may be sent to a washing unit to check the color
changes under one wash batch, which is subjected to the washing/ after treatment.
8. Non garment wash - The swatches will not be subjected to the washing/ after
treatment.

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9. Sorting the swatches into color batches – Put the swatches under the light box using
TL84 and D65 to assess for any color variation. The swatches are compared to the
fabric approval card and trim approval card. Group the swatches to different shade
lots such as A, B, C, D, E… Mark the lot number on each swatch.
10. Prepare the Color Continuity card - A 15cm by 15cm (6” x 6”) cutting from the
swatches of each lot should be mounted on the Color Continuity Cards and fill in
appropriate column with appropriate “lot number”. The total yardage of each dye lot is
then recorded.
11. Approval of Color Continuity card - The Color Continuity Card is prepared in a 3
duplicate sets. QA manager & Merchandiser review these shade bands. Once the
shade band has been agreed, they should sign off. One of the duplicate copies with
list of rolls/shades can be shared to warehouse reference and the warehouse
computer program is updated for roll shade identification. One of the duplicate may be
sent to customers for approval or for reference. One of the duplicate will be kept in
fabric QC file. QC will use this as a standard for inspections.
12. Agree shade band - To control the color variation, an acceptable shade band should
be agreed between buyer standard and factory standard prior the cutting process. The
color of bulk production must fall within the agreed shade band. In case the shade
band is out of standard, factories to contact their dying mills for improvement. Should
there be extreme cases of shade variations, this will then be raised to QA manager
and Merchandise Manager for decision making or eventually to customers.

12. Laboratory testing

Laboratory testing is needed when
1. Requested by customer
2. New Fabric - all new fabrics must be submitted for a full fabric test at development
stage and at bulk shipment stage.
3. New Supplier - when using a new supplier or fabric mill, all fabrics must be tested until
they have proven that their standards are consistent and acceptable.
4. Repeat fabric (i.e. frequently used fabric) - in a new color.

When is testing not needed?

1. Repeat fabric (frequently used fabric) - in the same color as run before and with the
same supplier/fabric mill
2. Even with this fabric, spot checks must be made approximately every 4 shipments

Mandatory test
1. The merchandisers need to make sure the fabrics and garments are tested before
cutting, according to the requirements of the customer.

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2. Any failed results or concerns need to be discussed with QC and QAmanager
immediately.

Minimum performance requirements

1. All fabrics & garments must adhere to certain minimum performance requirements.
2. For most buyers these requirements are dictated by their testing requirements.
3. For those customers who do not require testing, the minimum performance
standards should be enforced.

Minimum Performance Requirements

Test Description Test Method Minimum Performance Requirements

Woven fabrics: +/- 3% max. Knitted fabrics: +/- 5%
Dimensional stability to Laundering AATCC 135/150
max.
Dimensional stability to Dry Woven fabrics: +/- 3% max. Knitted fabrics: +/- 3%
AATCC 158
Cleaning max.
Satisfactory, including no shape distortion, no cross
Visual/AATCC 179
Appearance Rating staining and skewing 3% max for woven and 5% max
Method 2
for knits.
Color change: 4, Color staining: 3,
Color fastness to Laundering AATCC 61
Self staining: 4.5
Color fastness to Crocking AATCC 8 Dry: 4, Wet: 3

Color fastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color change: 4, Color staining: 3

Color fastness to Water AATCC 107 Color change: 4, Color staining: 3

Color fastness to Light AATCC 16 20 hour test: 3.5

Blouse: 25 lbs Shirt/dress/skirt/pyjamas/lining: 30 lbs
Tensile strength ASTM D5034 Outerwear: 37 lbs Trousers/shorts/overall/pocketing:
50 lbs

Minimum Performance Requirements

Test Description Test Method Minimum Performance Requirements
Blouse/shirt/dress/skirt: 15 lbs Pyjamas/lining: 18
Seam slippage ASTM D434 lbs Outerwear/pocketing: 22 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall: 25 lbs
Blouse/shirt/dress/skirt: 22 lbs Pyjamas/lining: 25
Seam strength ASTM D1683 lbs Outerwear/pocketing: 30 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall: 37 lbs
Blouse: 1.5 lbs Pyjamas/lining: 1.8 lbs
Tear strength ASTM 1424 Shirt/dress/skirt/outerwear: 2.0 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall/pocketing: 2.5 lbs
Bursting strength ASTM D3786 Fabric: 40 lbs /sq. inch, Seam: 35 lbs /sq. inch,
ASTM 3512 3.5
Pilling resistance
– 30 minutes

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 +/- 3% tolerance for blends; No tolerance for
Fiber content AATCC 20/20A
single fiber
Fabric weight (g/m2) ASTM D3776 +/- 5% of specification
Garments with contact to skin < 75 ppm
Formaldehyde content JIS L 1041
Other garments < 300 ppm
Lead content (scrapable < 600 ppm
16 CFR 1500.3
surfaces only; children only)
Azoic Dyes Zero tolerance

Responsibility of QC for laboratory testing

1. QA manager must be informed of any failed test so appropriate measures can be taken
before cutting of fabric. All options need to be reviewed on a case-by-case basis. It is
important the issues can be discussed openly between QC, QA and Merchandiser before
cutting, so something can be done.
2. Be proactive
3. In many cases, the fabric can still be rectified by the mill and in other cases we can alter
the garment to limit the problem. For example,
a) Seam slippage - An over lock stitch can be added or the seam construction can be
changed to make it stronger
b) Color fastness to rubbing or Color staining after washing - the fabric can be washed
again in the mill or, if already cut; an additional warning label can be added to state
“wash separately”. If the garment has contrast parts, we can consider deleting or
changing them.
c) Dimensional stability - The fabric can be reset or the pattern can be adjusted to
approach the maximum tolerance. If this is not possible, we can re-test in garment
form, which often shows less shrinkage.
d) Internal testing report sharing
4. All QC files must contain a copy of the testing report, if testing is required for this customer.
The QC should not accept files without it and hold production until they have it.

13. Fabric & Trims/Accessories Inspections and Tests

Accessories Inspection
We inspect 1.5 AQL/10% of accessories as per packing list quantity, by store Q. I.
Q.I checks the accessories quality & safety issue and write down the information about
quality, safety issues & short excess quantity. For that, we can take effective action from
the very beginning.

Fabric inspection

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1. We do 10% inspection of fabric as per receiving quantity making the fabric lot in various
stages, like:
a) Without Inspection. (Those are not yet started inspection)
b) Inspection running. (Inspection running but yet not finish)
c) Quality pass. (That means permitted for cutting)
d) Rejected lot. (Not permitted for cutting)
e) Held up. (Waiting for a decision from buyer side or supplier)
2. We inspect fabric by a 4-point system, where 20 points is our acceptable range.
3. Q.C inspects fabric and gives the report.
4. As per the inspection report, we take a final decision.

Point rating for inspection is given below:

a) 0 to 3″ defects = 1 point
b) Over3″ to 6″ defects = 2 point
c) Over3″ to 9″ defects = 3 point
d) Over 9″ defects = 4 point
e) Any hole = 4 point

Blanket Making
For every style, washed or non-washed; we make a blanket to see the fabric shade &
variation of color. We mark rejected roll on that one, which is out of color standard. We
group the rolls as per shade wise to ensure shade wise cutting is possible.

Shade Blanket Objective

a) To find all shades from bulk fabric for shade band making. Shade band to be made
based on the outcome of the shade blanket.
b) To evaluate bulk fabric shade before bulk production to ensure all shade lots are
within an acceptable range.

Shade band Making Method

a) Shade blanket to be made once bulk fabric is available in factory
b) Each roll of bulk fabric to be cut an 6″(weft) x 6″ (warp) swatch for shade blanket
making
c) Roll number to be marked on the backside by textile maker pen or otherwise as
approved by QC manager.
d) Join all fabric swatches together by over lock stitch then join the left-right side to make
a blanket in leg panel form

Shade Band Objective

1. To set up an acceptable shade range for factory bulk production guidelines.
2. To find out off shade & solve a problem at the earlier stage before bulk production.

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Shade Band Making Method – Buyer Option
Shade band must be submitted before bulk production is started.
1. Each shade to be made two sets of leg panels for buyer approval.
2. Leg panel dimension is to be (8″Wx 16L″)
3. Whenever the hand sand/PP spray effects are presented in the standard, they should
be demonstrated on one side of the leg panels.
4. A pocket to be sewn on one side of the leg panel
5. Leg panel to be washed the same as the bulk washing
6. Achieve shade as close as the washing standard
7. Half/Cut leg panels are not acceptable for approval

Shrinkage & Distortion Testing

The Objective of Shrinkage Testing

a) To determinate bulk fabric shrinkage for paper pattern adjustment to ensure washed
garment or steamed garment measurement meets with the size spec.
b) To determine whether the fabric shrinkage fulfills buyer requirement at the earlier
stage before bulk production.

The Objective of Distortion Testing

a) To determinate whether the fabric skew movement is fulfilling buyer requirement
at the earlier stage before bulk production
b) Detect twisted issue before bulk production

Shrinkage Testing Method

a) Shrinkage & Distortion testing to be done once the bulk fabric is in-house
b) Shrinkage & Distortion testing could proceed with the same template at the same time
with the same yardage.
c) For normal fabric, a minimum of 10% of bulk fabric is being tested.
d) For low stretch ability fabric, a minimum of 30% of bulk fabric to be tested.
e) For high stretch ability fabric 100% of bulk, fabric to be tested
f) Please refer to the purchase order to determine bulk fabric is high stretch ability fabric
or not.
g) Specimen for testing to be selected for each dyeing lot.
h) 100% test when shrinkage in bulk fabric is unstable.
i) Such as part of fabric shrinkage exceeds the tolerance or the shrinkage range is too
wide in the same lot of bulk fabric.
1) The specimen for testing must be fully relaxed before marking.
2) Mark two 50 cm x 50 cm squares (Minimum) on specimen’s left & right with a shrinkage
template.
23
3) If non-wash program, specimens should be only steamed specimen for the shrinkage
test result.
4) If wash program, specimens must be washed as bulk production recipe; do soft press
steaming on the washed specimen for the shrinkage test result.
5) Measure the length difference between the before wash and after a wash in weft &
warp
6) Convert in percentage
7) Take the average of the 2 parts

For distortion test result

1. Measure the length of diagonal (AC & BD) after wash or after steam if non-wash
program.
2. Calculate the percentage by using below formula X =100x[2(AC-BD)/(AC+BD)]
3. Show 2 parts results, do not take the average
4. None of them can exceed buyer requirement: 3%

For Example:
When AC is 70 cm & BD IS 72 cm
X =100x [2(70-72)/ (70+72)]
X =100x [2(-2)/ (142)]
X=100X0.028169
X=-2.8169(Acceptable, with intolerance)

When AC is 73 CM & BD is 69 cm
X=100x [2(73-69)/ (73+69)]
X=100x [2(4)/ (142)]
X=100×0.056338
x=5.

i) All incoming fabric including main fabric and trim fabric must be temporarily
quarantined to prevent their use before any required inspection and testing is carried
out.
ii) Testing and inspection must be carried out to the customer requirements.
iii) All factories need to complete the fabric inspection before cutting. No bulk production
can begin until the factory merchandiser / QC manager has signed off the completed
bulk fabric card and obtain approval.

4-point system fabric inspection

The 4-point system is applied to allow the factory technical staff to make correct decisions
and judgments regarding the quality of fabric and trim fabric. The factory QC manager and
fabric inspector are required to implement this procedure in their factories.

Procedure
1) Select samples randomly according to the sample plans.
2) Four points system are to be used to define each sample which are acceptable or not.

24
3) Check the fabric quality characteristics against the fabric standard and product
specification.
4) Fabric construction
5) Color
6) Fabric width
7) Hand feel and finishing
8) Packing – fabric tickets, lot number, poly-bag and packing condition.

Visual inspection procedure for fabric defects

1) Load the fabric on the inspection machine with viewing angle, 45°
2) Machine speed should be below twenty meter per minute.
3) The viewing distance is one meter and enough lighting is necessary.
4) Cut one meter of fabric on beginning and end of roll for checking shade and reference.
5) Count defects by 4 – point system to determine the roll of fabric to be accepted or to be
rejected.

Defects 3 inches or less 1 point

Defects exceed 3 to 6 inches 2 point
Defects exceed 6 to 9 inches 3 point
Defects exceed 9 inches 4 point

6) Defects found on fabric must be classified correctly. If the defect is hard to be

identified, the inspector should bring the defects (about one meter) to the QA manager.
7) The major and minor defects should be noted down by point on piece goods inspection
report.
8) After inspection, the defects of fabric should be shown to the QC manager &
Merchandiser.
9) Pass or fail
10) The rolls of fabric pass if the total defective units do not exceed 20 points per 100
square yards.
11) If the amount exceeds the allowable amount, the inspector should notify the factory
QC manager. A 100% inspection is required to sort the defective and put the quality
level right before shipment. In this case, re-inspection is needed.
12) Fail if the penalty of defects exceeds 20 points per 100 square yards
13) The pass grade of the fabric lot is 20 points per 100 square yards. This is calculated
by the following formulas:
Woven:
Total points x 36 x 100 = points/ 100 sq.yds sample yardage (yards) x width (inches)

Knit:
Total points x 100 x fabric weight (g/m²) = points/ 100 sq.yds Sample weight (lbs) x 543
25
14. A thorough inspection should be done on every unit.
15. Don’t assume the lot is good or bad after inspecting only a few units. The whole
sample size must be thoroughly inspected before making a conclusion.
16. Check according to normal sampling plan.
17. If the 1st inspection failed. Go for 2nd inspection by the ‘tightened standard”
sampling plan.
18. Actual rolls checked should be marked or stamped with “PASS or QA APPROLAL”.
19. If the batch is rejected after 1st and 2nd inspections, 100% check to be carried out.
20. From 100% check, mark each approved roll with GREEN tape and stamp with
“PASS”.
21. Rejected rolls must be marked with RED tape and stored in “REJECT” area.
22. From the fabric inspection records, monitor the performance of each fabric supplier.

26
Responsibility
The QA manager is responsible for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure.
Fine Spinners technical staff is responsible to train the factories and monitor the correct
implementation.
Factory merchandisers should keep the fabric inspection report in the style files.
Factory should maintain 12 months record that is available to technical staff upon request.

Key fault areas for fabrics

1) Any roll found with following defects shall be rejected.
2) Piece length less than 39 yards.
3) Poor shade continuity throughout the entire roll.
4) Exhibits a noticeable degree of shading from side to side, side to centre or side to end.
5) Usable width is less than the minimum usable width stated on the purchase agreement.
6) Exhibits a noticeable degree of slubs and naps.
7) Exhibits a noticeable degree of waviness along either or both fabric edges.
8) Exhibits more than 1½ inches of bow or bias on 45 inches width.
9) Running defect through more than 5 continuous yards.
10) Out of shade range.
11) Dye unevenness.
12) Shrinkage out of tolerance
13) Deviate more than 1 % from the length on the piece ticket.
14) Weight not as specification.
15) Roll exceeds 15 inches in diameter and / or 80 lbs in gross weight.
16) Length of spliced piece less than 30 yards

On site Crocking test by AATCC crock meter method

Below is minimum acceptable standard
a) Dry crocking test rate 4 on the grey sale for staining
b) Wet crocking test rate 3 on the grey sale for staining

Roll Packing Inspection

a) Roll shall be wound onto a tube with necessary strength to insure it reaches
destination in good condition.
b) Inside diameter of tube not less than 1 ½ inches.
c) Tube shall not protrude more than 1/2 on either end of roll.
d) The cover end of each roll shall be taped down to prevent unrolling during shipment
and storage.
e) Rolls shall be wrapped or enclosed in double plastic wrapping or bags and must be
evenly rolled with enough tension to prevent telescoping during subsequent handling.
f) Each roll shall be enclosed in between plastic wrapping with shipping mark.
g) Each roll shall be attached with a roll ticket with necessary information.
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28
14. Pre-Production Review meeting
The meeting is held at the factory before bulk cutting.
There will be group discussions on all aspects of manufacturing the new garment and any
potential problems highlighted.

The Pre-production meeting should be held to review all aspects of production after the PP
sample has been approved & sealed.
Line managers should attend this meeting which should be facilitated by the production
head and attended by the PP sample maker.
The meeting agenda should include style file checklist, production T & A plan, PP sample
and comments review, and other aspects of the manufacturing run which could impact
garments of the manufacturing run which could impact garment Quality and delivery.
The factory’s in-house documentation/is also acceptable.

Criteria for Pre-Production Meetings (PPMs)

1) Requested when factory merchandiser receives advice of PP sample approval
2) A new fabric is being introduced (including repeat orders)
3) Machine setting must be reevaluated and set accordingly
4) New construction methods are being introduced for critical fit tests
5) New machinery or new setting are being introduced
6) To ensure that shrinkage allowances built into patterns are correct for seam shrinkage,
washing shrinkage, fusing, printing, or any other after treatment to standard.
7) Repeat order of the same season without any change, no need to attend PPM. Repeat
order with changes PPMs need to attend. Repeat order of previous season (no change)
need to have PP reference review.

A pre-production meeting must be held before cutting to review the all production
specifications and set up action plan to load the new style into the production lines.

The following persons will be required to attend the meeting:

A) Buyer Personnel
i) Quality Controller
ii) Garment technologist if available
iii) Merchandisers if available
B) Factory Personnel
i) QC/ QA Manager
ii) Garment Technologist
iii)Merchandiser Manager
iv)Production floor Manager
v) Line Supervisors
vi)Head Mechanic
vii) Cutting Room Manager
viii) Fabric Inspector or Technologist

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The following information must be available for the meeting to take place:

1) Correct size set Garments made in bulk quality fabric and trims, 2 pieces per fit sample
size.
2) Approval sample
3) Technical specifications with operation breakdown
4) Size charts
5) Bulk trim card
6) Approved patterns

There will be group discussions on all aspects of manufacturing the new garment and any
potential problems highlighted (Risk assessment)
a) Status of preparation works including pattern, grading, maker
b) Shortages of raw materials
c) Color continuity of fabric and trims
d) Front & back side of fabrics to avoid wrong cutting
e) Lay plan and any special cutting requirements
f) Special operator skill required
g) Special machinery requirements
h) Line planning / Line balancing to ensure to enable correct amount of operators and
machinery requirement to fulfill production flow plan.
i) Folding and Packing methods

All quality points and action plan must be recorded on the Minutes of Pre-Production
Review.
The representative of the factory needs to sign the attendance form and keep a copy for
future reference.
The PPR-meeting is the last chance to avoid major mistakes in production.
Make mock-ups to double check before production starts.
Visual standards will be signed off and provided to production line as reference.

15. In-Process Quality Inspections

Line setting / First In-line inspection
a) If possible, the factory should cut 100 pieces or otherwise approved by buyer QA as
the pilot run.
b) QC should work on the production floor when the new style is loaded in the sewing
line.

30
 c) QC checks each operation of the first 20 pieces of complete garments coming off the
line.

In-Line inspections
a) During continued production the frequency depends on the total order quantity and
the number of color-ways.
b) QC will use Traffic light system and 7/0 audit procedure to monitor quality progress in
every operation.
c) In any case, there should be at least complete inspection per style per week.

Checking top samples

a) QC checks the top samples at the factory before the samples are dispatched to Fine
Spinners’ technical team/QA who will evaluate the samples before submitting to buyer
QA or sending to the customers.
b) These samples must be with full packing accessories.

Pre-Final inspection
a) Done when the sewing is finished or almost finished and 10% of the goods are
packed.
b) Crucial to avoid any last minute problems.

Final inspection
a) When sewing is 100% finished and the packing is 95% completed.
b) Do not load goods in the container before the final inspection is finished.
c) No style can go ex. factory before buyer QC confirms “shipment release” on the
inspection forms.
d) Final inspections should be held during normal working hours.

16. Standard-make specifications

All production must comply with the style details and production method as the sample
approved by buyer.
In addition, production items must comply with these standard make specifications.

Seams and Stitching

Seam type
a) Open Seams - minimum seam allowance - 3/8” in general
b) Raw edge to be over-locked or bound.
c) French seams - minimum width 6 mm

Sewing thread
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 a) Thread - ply/cotton or spun polyester. MONOFILAMENT THREAD IS UNACCEPTABLE.
b) Thread count should be appropriate for end use
c) All threads must match the fabric color (unless otherwise advised)
d) Thread must be colorfast.
Seam finish
a) Stitch density 10-12 stitches per 1" or otherwise specified in buyer tech pack
b) Thread tension of all threads must be correctly adjusted to give a neat and balanced
stitch formation. Seams must not "grin".
c) Stitches must not crack when seams are stretched.

SEAM PUCKERING IS UNACCEPTABLE.

Note:
i) Fabric grain cutting, sewing tension, machine feeds and operator technique must be
correctly adjusted to avoid this problem.
ii) Needle damage is unacceptable.
iii) All thread ends must be trimmed as close as possible to stitching.
iv) All loose threads and waste to be removed from inside and outside the garment.
v) Gathering must be evenly distributed.

Buttons and Buttonholes

Metal Buttons
a) To be rustproof and smooth edged.
b) To be non-toxic.

Hand sewn buttons

a) Minimum of 5 stitching steps to ensure the security of the button.
b) Minimizing the number of stitches by use of multi-ply sewing thread is not allowed.
c) Use 2-ply sewing thread.

Buttons
a) To be colorfast under prescribed care instructions.
b) To be attached using threads color to match button.
c) No loose thread ends.

Keyhole buttonhole
Should be used on all heavier weight constructed garment

Buttonholes
a) Stitch density to be a minimum of 50 stitches per 1".
b) Buttonhole stitching bite 2 mm.
c) Buttonhole must be cleanly cut and all threads to be trimmed.

32
d) Buttonhole size must be sufficient to allow buttons to pass through readily. Normally
button diameter + 1/8" but for high button + 1/4"

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General
a) Button and buttonhole must be positioned so as to prevent gaping of closure when
fastened.
b) Button and buttonhole positions must coincide.
c) Use removable chalk to mark button position. DO NOT USE WAX PENCIL.
d) Button to be positioned in the end of the horizontal buttonholes.
e) Button to be positioned central to vertical buttonhole. The first button may be required
to be positioned in the end of the buttonhole if used as a positional aid, to ensure
consistent alignment.

Waistband clips (hook and bar)

a) Ensure components of clips are securely fixed and correctly aligned to prevent gaping
of fly
b) Bar must be correctly spaced from fabric to allow hook to pass through readily.

Waistbands
a) All waists to be suitably constructed and interlined if applicable to prevent band
bucking or rolling over
b) Ends of waistband to be bagged out or neatly concealed ensuring minimum bulk
c) Always use color fast elastic if applicable
d) Fuse on waistband to prevent the see-through problems of white elastic bands.

Slide Fasteners
Zip tape, zip head and stopper to match body color.

Fly Construction. Turn back fly

a) Edges of fly facing to be over-locked or as otherwise specified
b) Base of fly to be securely back stitched
c) Ensure top stop of zip is located immediately below waistband. Gap cannot exceed
1/4"
d) Fly stitching should pass immediately below bottom stop or as otherwise specified
e) Ensure movement of slider is not restricted by fabric
f) Fly stitching must be parallel to opening
g) Ensure fly front fully conceals zip tape.

Darts
a) To be plain machined and run off gradually to avoid puckering at end of the dart
b) Dart to be backstitched at the point

Chain tacking at hem

a) Minimum 1" long

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 b) Tack at the side seams or otherwise specified in buyer tech pack.

Fell hems
a) Raw edge to be over-locked then blind stitched. Minimum hem width 1" or otherwise
specified in buyer tech pack.
b) Blind hemming thread must match body color
c) Blind hemming machine must be correctly adjusted to ensure hemming thread is not
visible on fabric surface.
d) Stitching must be securely caught to prevent unraveling
e) Stitch density - 4 stitches per 1". SKIP STITCH IS NOT TO BE USED
f) Tension to be correctly adjusted so as to prevent snagging during wear.

Piping
a) Piping must not be puckered, garment to be edge-stitched as close as possible to piping
where appropriate

Embroidery
a) Select appropriate backing on embroidery parts
b) NO BURNING MARK AROUND THE EMBROIDERY WILL BE ACCEPTED
c) Clean the chalk marks and oil stains.

Collar make
a) Top collar (unless otherwise specified) should have a suitable fusible interlining
attached by using a suitable fusing press to ensure uniform temperature and pressure.
b) Fused collars should withstand 50 washes without evidence of bubbling.
c) Collar should be made by a plain sewing machine using a template to either pre-mark
the required shape or stitch around.
d) When collars are bagged out, care must be taken to ensure points are fully turned
through without breakouts occurring. Collars must be carefully pressed to set shape.
e) Collar top stitching or under collar stitching must ensure that the collar seam does not
roll out and show on the top of the collar.

Collar attachment
a) Collar should be quartered for shoulder seam and back neck alignment.
Collar balance from shoulder to neck edge has a maximum tolerance of 5mm
b) Where no back neck facing is used, top collar is to be turned under and plain
machined down, or bound to conceal all raw edges.
c) Over lock edges are unacceptable.
d) Collar stand must align and be level at the centre front neck edge.

35
e) Collar must cover the collar attachment seam when rolled at the back neck. In two
piece collars the collar will normally be 5mm deeper at the back than the collar stand
at the back neck.
f) There should be a gap at the collar front neck to allow the collar peaks to roll over and
sit properly. This gap should not exceed 5mm.

36
17. QC Check Points
Cutting process
1. Fabric upside down: Make sure the fabric is not upside down.
2. Relaxation: Before cutting, knitted & elasticized woven fabrics should be
suitably relaxed for around 12~24 hours, depending on the type of fabric.
3. Height of cutting pile: The higher the pile on the cutting table, the more chance the
cut pieces are un-equal in size. This can lead to size spec- & fitting problems. Make sure
the height is suitable for the type of fabric (usually 2~3 inches and never more than 5
inch).
4. Numbering: Make sure the different parts are properly numbered to avoid shading and
that this numbering can be easily removed after sewing is complete.
5. Storing: Make sure the different parts are properly stored, for example rolled, and not
folded.
Sewing process
1. Critical operations: Check all critical operations repeatedly (like the sewing of neck-
seam, armhole, cuff, placket etc.), so the operator gets clear input of what is required
and how to make it correctly, before large quantities of garments are finished.
2. Seam allowance: check operators repeatedly on this point to make sure they use the
correct seam allowance.
3. Numbering: Make sure the sewing operatives keep parts with the same number
together to avoid shading.
4. Check Buttoning:
a) Snap button too loose / too strong
b) Snap button not closing properly / broken
c) Missing poly washer for snap buttons
d) Button coming off
e) Fabric not strong enough to hold the button
f) Mark from molding
g) Paint damaged
h) Rust
i) Text on button not straight
j) Wrong position / not in line with counterpart / incorrect spacing
k) Button shank missing when required
l) Button hole too big or too small
m) Buttonhole not clean / badly stitched / loosing shape / stitched with wrong thread
quality
n) Spare button missing or put in wrong position
5. Check Pressing
a) Shinny marks
b) Not pressed or improperly pressed
c) Should avoid press and fold the pigment dyed fabrics before garment washing
entirely. It is because it will leave a clearly visible mark on the garment after
washing. After sewing, put the garments on a hanger until washing starts.
37
18. Spreading & Cut Part Inspection
Spreading
The Quality Control Inspector should check the work of each spreader for the following
1. Placement of Marker: Check and verify so that the marker is sited on the range with the
brink matching to the selvage of the piece goods. Also, you need to confirm that all cut
pieces will be finished properly.
2. Shading: A control system should have for checking of shading if all parts are ply marked.
3. Table Marks: The spreading table should be marked so check the table marks and do not
allow any splices.
4. Markers: Make sure that there are no makers with creased or overlapped parts in the
markers.
5. Splices: After spreading is finished then check the splice laps that both plies extend past
the marked splice by less than 1/2 (half) inch and not more than 1 (one) inch.
6. Narrow Goods: After completion of the spread, check the “far edge” of the spread to see
that all plies extend beyond the marker line.
7. Tension: Check tension during spreading. This is very important on knit fabrics
8. Count: Check the count after completion of spreading, and before cutting. Count all plies
at both ends. There is no tolerance.
9. Leaning: Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the tabletop.
Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with the tabletop.
Record spreading defects by the number of defects found for each checkpoint. For fabric
utilization purposes, the sample form includes columns for edging end and remnants.
Calculate the defect rate for the spreader by dividing the number of defects found by the
height.

Cutting
The quality control inspector should check each cutter at a 2.5 acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L)
based on the number of parts being cut.
1. Pattern Check: Compare the pattern to marker paper to ensure that the marker
is correct.
2. Miscut: Check for miscut or the failure of the cutter to “split the line “Tolerance is 1/16”
Report all defects for miscut to the cutting foreman (Supervisor)
3. Matching Plies: check the top ply with the bottom ply. Compare both to a hard pattern or
the paper marker Comparison to a hard pattern is best. Tolerance is +/- 1/8”. Report each
defect found to the Cutting Supervisor).
4. Rugged Cutting: Check for rugged cutting according to the standards for your product.
This is a judgment defect. It is more important on critical parts if the part has to be recut.
5. Notches: Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply. Tolerance is +/-
1/8″ If the notch is more than 1/8″ off. Contact the cutting foreman (Supervisor).
a) Record cutting defects on a cutting quality control form along with the number of
bundles examined. To calculate the defect rate for cutting, divide the total defects found
by the number of bundles checked.
b) Often changes are made to patterns to adjust for production problems. Some
factories make such changes on the pattern and/or marker for the cutter to correct. Do
not allow such a policy. Preventive measures are the best control for quality. Make a
new pattern with the correction.

38
 c) All factories are required to conduct the cut part inspection. The cut part inspection is
necessary to maintain the correct measurements of the garments.

The responsibility for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure lies jointly
with the following departments:
1. QA Manager
2. Cutting room manager
3. Production or factory Manager

Procedure
1. Marker approved customer pattern piece with tolerance to be signed by Quality
manager.
2. All pattern pieces must be mounted on cards per size per style.
3. Place mounted pattern and check TOP, MIDDLE, BOTTOM plies.
4. Check 30 % of every batch. Ensure all sizes are inspected.
5. Count plies and ensure complete bundle.
6. If pieces are not within tolerance, call Quality Manager immediately.

19. Fusing Procedure

Before production commences, the factory should conduct fusing tests to ensure the fusing
machines are set correctly to prevent de-lamination or over strike of fusible interlining.
Fusing machine must be set up for the above conditions, using thermal strips.
No production must commence without a fusing machine test has been carried out at the
appropriate time.

Responsibility
QA manager to ensure this procedure is adhered to.
QA manager & garment technologist to check the fusing test specification report every day
at the close of business.

Procedure
Factory’s fusing test specification report must be available for reference (in close proximity
to the fusing machine) for the following:
a. Fabric details
b. Recommended interlining
c. Recommended fusing conditions
d. Speed time
e. Pressure and temperature
f. Results after wash

1. Cut 3” x 6” of fabric and approved interlining

39
 2. Place the piece across the complete width of the fusing table, placing thermal strip in
between fabric and interlining.
3. Pass the piece through the full cycle of the machine.
4. Wait for the piece to cool and check that interlining has adhered thoroughly, with no
glue stripe through to the face side of the fabric.
5. Check the thermal strip has changed color to the recommended temperature.
After the required result has been achieved, the fabric piece is to be placed in a file.
This will show the date of the test and the style number of the garments.
When in production, this procedure is to be carried out two to three times per day, until
the style has been completed.
These files will be signed and checked by QC Manager.
A technician/ engineer should check the fusing machine every 3 months and the date of
visit recorded.
For wash program, on a daily basis, a sample fused component to be durability wash
tested. This piece is to be checked by the garment and fabric technologists to ensure
satisfactory adhesion.
The durability washed samples are to be labeled using self adhesive labels as follows:
a) Date
b) Time
c) Style number
d) Passed/failed
14) The labeled washed sample will be retained on file for Inspection upon request

20. Start up Production Line

1. To ensure the sewing lines are set up correctly to produce the right products that
conform to the technical specifications and approval samples.
2. QC team should work together with the factory production personnel at the sewing
lines to sign off work standards and train sewing operatives with correct sewing
technique.
3. Persons involved - The team of 3 people must remain on the line at all times
throughout the introduction the new style. They are Line supervisor, Line mechanic
and Line quality / Technical person.
4. Paperwork for Reference - The approval samples and copy of the comment card and
pre-production minutes will be referred to at all times.
5. Checking the machine setting on the line - The line mechanic will work on each
machine in turn, following the check list below:
6. Correct machine type and needle gauge i.e. Stitch bight and density, needles size,
threads and correct tension.
7. Insert new needles of correct type/size
8. Correct machine settings with all necessary guides, folders and attachments fitted
correctly
9. Correct seam quality on correct fabric by simulating the operation required.
40
10. Train the sewing operatives - The line supervisor/quality person will try each
operation and will then instruct the operator on how to handle the work.
11. Set up work standard - The line quality person will show the operator the method of
checking work and after the first few pieces are produced, a sample accepted for
standard of quality will be taken from production and signed by quality manager and
attached to machine in a plastic wallet. This is then to be used as a quality control
standard for that machine throughout the life of the style. The same standard must
be achieved after any subsequent machine exchanges or major machine repairs.
Standard to be signed by QC manager / supervisor, wherever possible.
12. Operative specification sheet for Critical operations - The supervisor must also
complete the “operative specification sheet” on the CRITICAL OPERATIONS, showing
needle type/size thread type, number of stitches, etc. The operatives sew samples of
operation, which is correct against technical specifications and approval samples.
The signed “operative specification sheet” and the correct sew sample must be
placed in plastic wallet.
13. Measuring aids - Any operation requiring measurement checks to be done, must
have all necessary markers/measuring aids positioned correctly on machine by
quality person.
14. End of Line Standard - When line is completely set up, one garment must be
checked and measured and signed by Quality / Garment Technical as End of Line
Standard.
15. Get the job done - The team will only leave the line when all operator specification
sheets have been signed by all parties named on the operator specification sheet.
16. Quality control or Technical Manager must ensure operative specification sheet filled
out correctly and critical quality points recorded. He / she must ensure operator
supervisor and mechanic understand what is required for correct sewn sample.

21. The Inline Inspection

1. 100% in Line Q.I Audit
a) We follow the root canal system in sewing. For that, we analyze the source & reason
for defects and take preventive action as per the root cause.
b) Q.I checks 100% incomplete garments of the quality control manual.
c) Q.I writes the operator name & I.D in the format, how many defects he/she has
done in one hour and then one day.
d) And this daily total result is added for monthly summarization for the quality
evaluation process. The hourly defects record is very important for root cause
analysis.
e) If anyone of Q.C sees the hourly record, he can easily imagine what is going on and
what he has to do?

2. 100% End Line Audit

41
 a) End line Q.I checks 100% garments.
b) Q.I writes down the name & ID no of operators & keeps an hourly record of defects.
So that we can easily identify the most defective operation and take preventive
immediate action.
c) We compare both reports of inline & end line to see the efficiency of Q.C, either he is
doing proper work or doing homework.

3. In-house Q.C Check

a) An in-house audit is another station audit done by line Q.C we do that for the more
safety.
b) When comes first output, Q.C checks the styling & the statistical audit to find out any
mistake which has done in sewing.
c) In finishing section, finishing Q.C will again do the statistical audit to find out any
error, which has been done in the finishing section.
d) For that, we can solve any problem from the very beginning.
An inline inspection is conducted while work is in progress. This is to identify and
resolve problems in manufacturing to prevent garment rejects. This includes:
i) Evaluation of workmanship, measurement, labeling and packaging at THE START
OF EACH OPERATION.
ii) Signs off pressing standards and sewing or packing standards
iii) Recommend corrective actions if garment rejects.

4. The inspection procedure should be systematic and include steps to check styling,
material & color combinations
a) Compare the production sample to approval sample
b) Check the production sample to fabric and trim cards
c) Color assessment – check dye lot variation
i) Check size specification - Conformity to size specification
ii) Functional check - Check if the product is suitable for its intended purpose by
wearer trial. Try the garment on a dummy if available. This fit check is very
important, because this is exactly what the consumer is doing in the store. Check
the buttoning, bar tacking and buttonhole to ensure the fitness of the products.
iii) Workmanship checks - Visual examination for workmanship. Check each piece
carefully at inside & outside for any possible defects.
iv) Workmanship Inspection Report - List comments on all points of
workmanship which do not meet required standards and suggest the corrective
actions.
v) Measurement check report - A full measurement report on 3 pieces in each
size.
5. If a measurement falls outside the zone of tolerance it is circled. This report must be
filed at the front of the QC file.
42
6. QC should share the failed inspection reports to the attention of the QC manager no
later than 1 day following the inspection.
7. QC manager should discuss with merchandising if the problem cannot be rectified.

43
22. TOP / Rack Samples / Shipment Samples
The customers have their specific requirements for TOP samples.
Different customer may use different terminology such as rack samples/ shipment samples/
gold seal samples but the submission procedure is more or less the same.

Following is the typical example of the Top sample procedure.

1) Top samples send by factories
2) As soon as the first batch is completed the factory should send 2 sets of top samples to
sample QA in charge & technical manager for review.
3) One full color set is to be sent to customers following a complete inspection and the
other set is a ‘keep’ for the office.
4) The samples must be sent including complete packing accessories, like hang tag,
hanger, poly-bag & UPC.

Checking of Top samples by sample QA in charge

a) Fabric/Colors as approved
b) Accessories / Trims as approved
c) Style details as approved
d) Measurements as final size spec
e) Write out sample card

FCQA or Buyer QA to check

a) Measurement as final size spec
b) Technical make-up as requested
c) Add extra comments to sample card

FCQA or Buyer QA is responsible for checking the samples and should follow-up on the
prompt delivery to buyer merchandisers.
All “keep” TOP samples and QC reports will be kept by merchandisers.
If there are multi shipments for the same style, a new TOP sample is required per each
shipment.
Availability of TOP sample before Final inspection
Merchandiser must obtain TOP Samples from the factory before they can arrange the final
inspection.
QA manager will check with Merchandisers if the customers have signed off the TOP
Samples.

44
45
23. Garment Washing & Finishing
The washing process directly affects the quality of the washed garment. It must be
ensured that these processes are carried out under a controlled condition. Customer,
merchandising, suppliers, washing plant and QC should work together to agree a standard
for this controlled condition.
QA manager & Merchandiser should guide the fabrics QA & washing manager to fulfill all
approval processes. This includes:

Approval color shade band

a) Cutting of all dye-lots from the fabric rolls, i.e. fabric before wash
b) Washed color standard in tube form with hemming, a minimum size of 6" by12"
c) The approved color shade band available on the first wash of all available dye-lots.
d) Rejected dye-lots which are out of the acceptable shade band.
e) The full set of fabric quality swatches should be included in the QC files.

Documentation of the standard condition for washing and finishing

a) Merchandiser should prepare a documented quality standard and includes this in the
purchase orders.
b) The quality standard must be set correctly to avoid disagreement with buyers.
c) Customer and QC staff should work to the same quality standard to avoid
disagreement on quality.
d) To ensure an effective QC of fabric and washing quality, the customer, factories must
have equal expectations regarding fabric quality and washing standard:

Fabric quality
a) Yarn count and yarn spinning method
b) Construction: number of ends and number of picks
c) Fabric quality grade: number of defectives in 100 sq. yard and yarn quality
d) Dyeing method

Washing quality
a) Washing method: normal wash, stone wash, sand wash or enzyme wash
b) Bleaching method: stone bleach, garment bleach
c) Any special process. E.g. over-dye after washing process
d) Color tone of the blue yarn
e) Whiteness of the white yarn
f) Resultant color tone: bluer or yellowish
g) Rubbing effect: contrast on the blue yarn and white yarn
h) Evenness on the blue and white parts
i) Hand-feel

Monitoring and control

a) QC team should tighten the control on all outgoing shipments by the following steps:
b) Record the identification of the seal sample, quality standards on the final inspection
report to ensure QC check the bulk according to the correct standards.
46
 c) Tick and sign all quality standards as an indication of proper QC checking
d) QC should not release the shipment if they find the following major faults:
e) Color out of the approved shade band
f) Fabric flaws and washing marks in excess of 1" on the garment zone above knee or
otherwise recommended by QA manager in consultation with buyer QA.
g) Fabric flaws and washing marks in excess of 3" on any part of the garment

24. Finishing
After receiving from sewing line or washing room, we start finishing procedure by
1. Thread Shaking (Blowing) - For removing the loose thread & number sticker
garments we use thread shaking machine.100% garments go finishing area through
the thread shaking action.
2. Pressing - Covering all sizes & colors to see the workmanship & measurement then
if wash program to check wash standard/hand feel/any wash defect by wash unit.
3. Depending on the recommended pressing method & pressing standard, we have
steam irons and/or legers or toppers. We use the iron shoe to avoid the shining
mark.
4. Trimming - Is the most important thing in quality issues. For that, any lot with
trimming problem is rejected for corrections by line production/quality team. We
don’t allow tread end over 3 mm. We should take care of trimming throughout the
stitching process.
5. Inside Checking if approved in layout - A large quantity of Q.I check 100%
garments, process-wise in the side of garments. They ensure that no defect & uncut
thread inside of the garments. For every Q. I give their personal Q.C pass number
inside of the pocket.
6. Preliminary Top Side Checking - In finishing section Q.I person checks 100%
garments, the process-wise top side of garments. They ensure that no defect &
uncut top side of the garments. For that every Q.I give their personal Q.C pass no
inside of the pocket.
7. Final Checking - After preliminary pressing Q., I person check the topside of whole
garments. They ensure that no defect, spot & uncut thread top side of the garments.
For that every Q. I give their personal Q.C pass no inside of the pocket.
8. Measurement Check - 100% of garments should a measurement before packing.
Measurement defects garments should not advance for packing. Defect means out of
tolerance, if it can rectify, it will be corrected, re-measured & packed otherwise it will
be count as a reject.
9. Re-pressing - Is needed to recovering the damage by Q.C handling. We do this for
an attractive outlook.
47
10. Metal Detection - There is no perfection to enter any okay garments without metal
detector machine checking. We sent all okay garments to the packing section
through the metal detector machine. The packing section is isolated by the
gatekeeper system. Our detection standard is 1.0 mm diameter sphere of ferrous
metal. We keep a 100% record of metal detection.
11. Ratio / Solid pack Checking - Before seal, the carton Q.C check the packing sizes
is as per buyer requirement. For non scan pack orders, if packing is okay Q.C gives a
sign inside of the carton, then the carton should seal in front of Q.C. For scan pack
orders, if packing is okay Q.C gives for 100% GT scanning then the cartoner should
sign inside of the carton before sealing it.
12. Packaging - Carton & poly bag measurements are ensured by the first production.

48
25. Random inspection method
Uses the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) random sampling plan for quality audit of
customer’s products.
It is based on the ISO 2859 / BS 6001 / DIN 40080 / ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-
105E) sampling procedure.
This is a random sampling inspection method and is the most widely recognized
method of sampling by attributes based on the mathematical theory of probability.

The procedure provides the number of samples to be inspected in a given lot /

shipment size.
It also provides specific criteria for acceptance or rejection of a shipment/lot based
on the number of defects found, and provides a fair assessment, to both buyers and
sellers, of product quality.

Key definitions
1. Audit - The inspection and examination of products to ensure compliance to
requirements
2. Lot / batch - Group of items for inspection.
3. Defect - A deviation from requirements.
4. Defective - A unit of product that contains one or more defects.
5. DHU (Defects per Hundred Units) - The quality of any given quantity of product is
expressed either as the percentage defective or as the number of defects per
hundred units.
6. Sampling plan - A specific plan that indicates the sampling sizes and associated
has acceptance or no acceptance criteria to be used.
7. Accept Number - The maximum number of defects allowable in a sampling lot for
the lot to be acceptable
8. Rejection number - The smallest number of defectives (or defects) in a sample or
samples under consideration that will require the rejection of the lot
9. Classification of defects - The listing of possible defects in a unit, classified
according to their seriousness e.g. critical, major & minor
10. Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) - In a continuing series of lots, Acceptable
Quality Level is a quality level that, for the purpose of sampling inspection, is the
limit of a satisfactory process average.
Acceptable quality level is the 'only just acceptable' quality, i.e. the minimum
quality that can be considered acceptable as the average quality level of the
production.
However, the designation of an AQL does not imply that the manufacturer has
the right to knowingly supply any defective product.

49
26. AQL Tables
26.1 Workmanship

The workmanship will be checked against the following table:

ISO 2859 ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E)
Single Sampling Plans Normal Inspection, Level II
Functional Major Minor
AQL 0.65 2.5 4.0
Sample
Lot Size Maximum allowable defectives
Size
91 - 150 20 0 1 2
151 - 280 32 0 2 3
281 - 500 50 0 3 5
501 - 200 80 1 5 7
1,201 - 3,200 125 2 7 10
3,201 - 10,000 200 3 10 14
10,000 - 35,000 315 5 14 21
35,001 - 150,000 500 7 21 --

26.2 Measurement

The measurements will be checked against the following table:

ISO 2859 ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E)
Single Sampling Plans Normal Inspection, Level I
Critical Non-Critical
Measurements Measurements
AQL 2.5 4.0
Sample Maximum Allowable Garments
Lot Size
Size Out Of Tolerance
151 - 280 13 0 1
281 - 500 20 1 2
501 - 1,200 32 2 3
1,201 - 3,200 50 3 5
3,201 - 10,000 80 5 7
10,000 - 35,000 125 7 10
35,001 - 150,000 200 10 14

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26.3 Packing

The packing accuracy will be checked against the following table:

ISO 2859 ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E)
Single Sampling Plans Normal Inspection, Level I
Critical Non-Critical
Measurements Measurements
AQL 1.5 2.5
Sample
Lot Size Maximum allowable major defectives
Size
151 - 280 13 0 0
281 - 500 20 0 1
501 - 1,200 32 1 2
1,201 - 3,200 50 2 3
3,201 - 10,000 80 3 5
10,000 - 35,000 125 5 7
35,001 - 150,000 200 7 10

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27. Pre-Final & Final inspections
27.1 Pre-Final Inspection
There is an in-house pre-final audit for self-confirmation, done by the internal quality
auditor.
He audits by 2.5 AQL then after receiving the Q.C pass report we offer for a final
inspection.
Our AQL chart is shown as below.
To ascertain that the quality level of a bulk order is acceptable for shipment, inspections
are completed on all orders to ensure that the quality of the bulk production is as agreed at
approval sample stage.

27.2 Final Inspection

The final inspection plan will take place when production has made at least 95% of the
products packed. The quality and quantity of products are checked against the order,
quality standards and approval sample.
The procedure should be systematic and include these 8 steps:
Step 1: Check outer packaging
a) Shipment mark -Check the shipping mark printed on the carton. Record the front
mark and side mark to the Shipment Release Letter.
b) Numbering of carton - Select carton for the AQL inspection. Check and record the
number of selected carton to the Shipment Release Letter.
c) Strength of carton board – carton board not collapse when stack up.
d) No under pack - Not collapse when the cartons stack up.
e) No over pack -the cartons can be stacked up and not tilted.
f) Check Gross carton weight- More than allowed, usually 16 kg maximum.

Step 2: Check inner packaging and assortment

a) Check inner package – with correct marking for size and color indication, with
“warning for suffocation”.
b) Correct assortment - check the content of the inner package for correct size & color
assortment which match the size / color ratio as listed on purchase Orders.
c) Hang-tag - are the barcode tags or swing tickets incorrect or missing?
d) Check Labeling
e) Is there a correct logo?
f) Is there a correct label size?
g) Are there correct labels with fiber content and wash care instructions?
h) Bar code verification – if possible use bar code verifier to check 5 samples.
i) Shipped quantity – the shipped quantity within +/-5% of the order quantity. Any
case of over-ship or short-ship more than 5% must be approved by customers /
merchandisers. Where customer doesn’t accept any short ship or over ship, factory
must maintain 100% ship quantity.
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j) Packing accuracy – the content of the carton match with the packing list

53
 Classification of defect – Labeling and Packaging
LABELLING AND PACKAGING

Code DEFECT CLASSIFICATION

L1 Incorrect or missing main label Major
L2 Incorrect or missing country of original label Critical
L2 Incorrect or missing fibre content label Critical
L3 Incorrect or missing care label Critical
Incorrect or missing swing ticket, price ticket, UPC
L7 Critical
sticker
L3 Incorrect size label Major
L4 Label not secure Major
L6 Labels not in correct position Major
L8 Incorrect multiple item packs Major
L9 Carton box, too big or too small Major
L10 Carton board too thin, box crashed Major
L11 Incorrect display box Major
L13 Wrong shipping mark Major
Correct labeling is usually a legal requirement and buyer will have a zero tolerance for
defects on this point.

Step 3: Metal detection

Purpose
To ensure no metal contamination in finished products which would hurt the customers
and cause claim or legal actions against the buyer or factories.

Responsibility
The responsibility for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure lies jointly
with the following departments:
a) Line & finishing supervisors
b) Production Manager
c) Factory QC Manager
Procedure
a) Manufacturers should use conveyor type metal detectors to scan all products.
b) The metal detection can ensure all packed goods contain no extraneous metal
objects.
c) Manufacturers should maintain calibration and metal contamination logbooks for the
past 12 months.
Calibration of the metal detector
1. Put a 1.2 mm steel ball through the aperture of the metal detector.
2. Put the steel ball through the top/ middle/ bottom and left/ centre/ right of the
aperture, this is known as the 9-point sensitivity test.
3. Conduct the 9 point sensitivity test before start metal detection or every 2 hours when
the machine is in use.
54
Method of metal detection
- Do the metal detection twice in two orientations.
- FCQA must put the random sample through the metal detection before doing open the
poly-bag for inspection.

This is a mandatory procedure for the following items:

1. Products used by children with age below 12.
2. Underwear.
3. Any items if required by customers.

QC completes the Metal Contamination Log Sheet by each style. QA should keep the
finished record in the QC file.

Step 4: Check styling, Material and Color combinations

Presentation - compare the production sample against approval sample
Do the garments meet retailing standards?
Are the garments crushed, creased or glazed?
Are the garments soiled, stained or wet?
Is the fit as per the approved samples?
Components and Trims - Check the production sample to fabric and trim cards
Are the components or trims rusting, tarnishing or broken?
Are the zippers faulty or incorrect?
Are the tie cords correct?
Are there printing or dyeing faults?
Are there faults in the fabric or interlining?
Trims matching color, unless contrast color is required.
Color assessment - check dye lot variation
Does shading vary within the garment?
Does shading vary from garment to garment?

Step 5: Check Measurements

a) Check the measurements to ensure that the finished garments are within tolerance.
b) The garment will be classified as ‘reject’ if any measuring point found exceeds the
tolerance.
c) Critical Measurements are measurement discrepancies that will badly affect the fit of the
garment.
d) It is required to highlight the critical measurements on the reports with an * so
everyone can draw a special attention on this.

55
e) The following is the list of the critical measurements:
For tops:
Chest/ bust Across shoulders Hem/ Sweep Garment length
Across Front Across Back Sleeve length Sleeve opening
Armhole Neck width Neck Drop

For Bottoms:-
Waist relaxed High hip Low hip Thigh
Inseam Out seam Front rise Back rise
Leg opening Hem / Sweep

Sampling plan for measurement checks

Measure a minimum of 1 unit per color per size for all measurement points.
At least measure 3 units for each size.

Example 1:
An order with 8 sizes and 5 colors,
The random sample is 1 units X 8 sizes X 5 colors = 40 units.

Example 2:
For the order with 8 sizes and 2 colors, apply the rule of “At least measure 3 units for each
size’ here.
The random sample is 3 units X 8 sizes = 24 units, which include 2 colors.
Take the full measurements of 2 garments for each size. Measure the critical
measurements for the balance of the random sample.

Acceptance decision
The acceptance will be assessed by checking the conformity of measurements to the size
specification.
Pass – if all measurements of the random examples meet the specification.
Fail - if any measurement point is found out of tolerance.

2nd audit
1. If the first measurement check failed, it is required to check further on those
measurements which are out of tolerance consistently.
2. Draw a new random sample based on the AQL method, Single Sampling Plans, Normal
Inspection, Level I to decide the acceptance.
3. The acceptance of measurements is judged per color per size per measuring point.
4. Check the measurements of the particular color / size that were out of tolerance during
the 1st audit and make conclusion of acceptance accordingly.

56
 Critical Non-Critical
measurements measurements
AQL 2.5 4.0
Sample Maximum allowable garment
Lot Size
Size Out of tolerance
281 - 500 20 1 2
501 - 1,200 32 2 3
1,201 - 3,200 50 3 5
3,201 - 10,000 80 5 7

Standard measurement tolerances

a) All production must comply with the style details and production method as the
sample approved by buyer.
b) In addition, production items must comply with standard measurement tolerances as
specified by customers.
c) In case customers don’t specify measurement tolerance, factory standard
measurement tolerances will be applied.
d) Appropriate measurement tolerances are determined by the QC manager.

The following factors will be considered:

a) Fabric type which will have different reaction to distortion
b) Any special treatment that may distort the fabric

Two Levels of Control on Tolerances

According to the fabric types and degree of distortion after treatment, the measurement
tolerances are controlled on two levels:
Level 1 - Slight distortion garment
Level 2 - Easily distorted garment

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Tolerances for Tops
This chart applies to shirts, blouses, dresses and coats
All measurements are Full measure or otherwise specified
Half measurements will be applied when checking the girth measurements.
These measurements are marked on the chart with (1/2)
All tolerances are plus or minus

Measurement Level 1 Level 1 Level 2 Level 2

Body length 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm

Body width (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Waist width (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Bottom width (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Sleeve length 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Armhole (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Sleeve muscle (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Cuff opening (1/2) 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Total neck circumference 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm

Tolerances for bottoms

This chart applies to pants, shorts and skirts.
Unit of measurement may be in inches or cm.
All measurements are Full measure, or otherwise specified.
Half measurements will be applied when checking the girth measurements. These
measurements are marked on the chart with (1/2)
All tolerances are plus or minus

Measurement level 1 level 1 level 2 level 2

Waist 1/2" 1.3cm 1" 2.5cm
Hip (1/2) 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Tight (1/2) 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Knee (1/2) 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Bottom (1/2) for pants 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Bottom (1/2) for shorts 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Inseam for pants 1/2" 1.3cm 3/4" 2.0cm
Inseam for shorts 3/8" 1.0cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Front rise 1/2" 1.3cm 1/2" 1.3cm
Back rise 1/2" 1.3cm 1/2" 1.3cm

58
Step 7: Functional check
a) Check if the product is suitable for its intended purpose by wearer trial.
b) Try the garment on a person, if not possible, use a dummy instead.
c) This fit check is very important, because this is exactly what the consumer is doing in
the store.

Step 8: Workmanship check

Conduct visual examination for workmanship. Check each piece carefully at inside &
outside for any possible defects.
a) Are the seams insecure, puckered, grinning, roping or twisting?
b) Is there needle damage (including laddering)?
c) Are there excessive threads or poor trimming?
d) The collars, pockets, zippers or darts incorrectly sewn or are panels not properly
aligned?
e) Are buttons, buttonholes, or studs misaligned or mismatched?

The Random Inspection Plan

This is applied to determine the acceptance of a shipment.
The main purpose of the sampling procedure is to control the acceptance of products at a
quality level that is equal to or better than the Acceptable Quality Level (AQL).
It is the 'only just acceptable' quality, that is to say, the poorest (minimum) quality that can
be considered acceptable as the average quality level of the production.

AQL procedure
A random sample is chosen for inspection according to a selected sampling plan with a
predetermined acceptable quality level (AQL).
The AQL for our products can be set at different level depending on the quality level of
each individual customer.
The sample lot will be checked piece by piece. The defects are marked and classified as
critical / major/ minor.

59
28. Classification of Defects
Defects in workmanship are classified as ‘Critical’, ‘functional’, ‘major’ and ‘minor’.

Critical – Anything that is likely to pose a safety hazard to the customer / end user, or not
comply with any mandatory regulations. The entire shipment is likely to be recalled or
returned to manufacturer that may also cause the product to be subject to legal
prosecution. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects
found within a shipment.

Functional - Anything that is like to result in failure, or to reduce materially the usability
of the unit for its intended end use. A functional defect will in all probability result in the
customer with justification for non-purchase, returning the product for exchange or refund
thus affecting the customer or product reputation.

Major - Any obvious aesthetic non-conformity which adversely affects the appearance
including fit or customer satisfaction to a degree that would provide a discerning customer
with justification for non-purchase, returning the product for exchange or refund thus
affecting the customer or product reputation.

Minor - Any variation from the standard that is not likely to reduce the usability of the
product for its intended purpose. A minor problem may give a degree of consumer
dissatisfaction. Several Minor problems together may lead to the customer returning the
item.

Example of Critical defects

1. Severe damage in the materials and / or finish, like heavy needle holes and fabric
defects in clearly visible places
2. Essential parts missing
3. Broken zipper
4. No possibility to wash or dry clean by consumer
5. Un-wearable / ill fitting
6. Hazardous or unsafe conditions. For example, sewing needle left in garment.
7. Violation of Federal regulation. For example, country of origin label missing/incorrect.
8. Critical faults are always un-acceptable with zero tolerance.
9. These garments must be rejected completely as “killed garments”

Example of Major defects

Violation of customer quality standard For example, holes, rips, tears, shading/stains.

Example of Minor defect

60
Does not render the garment un-saleable but it will decrease value. For example, small
knots/ slubs in textiles.

Common Sense & Judgment

a) In addition to current legislation and the specific requirements of the customers, it is
assumed that “common sense” is the best guide when deciding whether a defect or
feature is to be classified as critical.
b) It is recognized that certain features or defects may vary in their degree of severity to
the extent that “best judgment” must be used to determine whether a defect is major
or minor.
c) When in doubt, the default decision should be based on the more severe classification.
d) If classification of defect cannot be determined during the inspection, FCQA should send
garment sample or digital photos to QC managers and merchandisers for further
judgment.

29. Acceptability of a Shipment

The acceptability of a shipment is determined by the nature and number of defects found
in the selected random sample.
A random sample is selected from the finished lot.
The random sample lot will be checked piece by piece.
The defects are marked and classified as critical/ functional/ major/ minor.

The product will be classified as defective by the following standard:

a) 1+ Major defect on a garment will be counted as 1 Major defective.
b) 3 Minor defects on a garment will be counted as 1 Major defective.
c) 1-2 minor defects on a garment will be counted as 1 Minor defective.

Our AQL is:

Critical defect – zero tolerance
Functional defect – AQL 0.65
Major defect - AQL 2.5
Minor defect - AQL 4.0

The counting of “major defect” should include “functional defect” which is controlled by
AQL 2.5
The number of defectives will be recorded and compared with the AQL Table.
If the number of defectives falls within the permissible number in the specified lot size, the
shipment will be passed. If the number exceeds the permissible number, the shipment will
be rejected.
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For example:
GIVEN: An order of 2,000 garments
AQL standard: AQL 0.65 for functional, AQL 2.5 for major and AQL 4.0 for minor METHOD:
ISO 2859, Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection – Level II Inspected unit: 125
garments

The shipment can be rated as “Pass” if the maximum allowable defectives are:
a) 7 major defectives which may include maximum of 2 functional defectives and
b) 10 minor defectives.

The shipment will be classified as “FAIL” if:

a) There is any critical defect found or
b) The functional defects are more than 2 pieces or
c) The major defects are more than 7 pieces or
d) The minor defects are more than 10 pieces.

30. Fault Categories

The following pages that describe the types of defect and their severity are not intended to
cover every type of fault. Experience has shown that 99.9% of all shipments that contain
substandard or poor quality do so as a result of one or more of the specific faults listed in
this section.
The quality control of merchandise is based on the standards contained in this document.
If the factory through a recognized, disciplined process of quality control applies these
guidelines, the likelihood of substandard or poor quality merchandise reaching a client is
almost eliminated.

The types of defect are grouped under 5 fault categories:

1. Critical: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the
customer or end user.
2. Wash & wear: All faults associated with the fit and the after care of the garment
3. Raw material and components: All faults associated with the technical appearance and
performance of the fabric and trims.
4. Aesthetics: the faults affect the overall appearance of the garment, other than the
technical appearance and performance of the fabric and the color.
5. Construction: All faults associated with the process of sewing the garment.

62
Fault categories and fault codes
Each fault code has been given a specific reference code. This is to simplify the
communication, recording and reporting of defect types.

Critical
Product Conformity
(Check against approved Sample and Specification)
Code Defect Classification
Loose components that could be considered to be choking
Z1 Critical
hazard
Any component with a sharp edge or point that could cut or
Z2 Critical
cause bodily harm to a customer
Loose stones in a garment that has been “stone washed”
Z3 Critical
and which is intended for a child
Drawstrings at the head or neck of a garment that is intended
Z4 Critical
for a child
Any other fault or defect that might cause injury to the end
Z5 Critical
user

Wash and wear

Product conformity
(Check against approved Sample and Specification)
Code Defect Classification
Q1 Overall appearance Major
Q2 Fit on Dummy (size/capacity) Major
Q3 Does not satisfactorily complete 5 full performance cycles Major
Q4 Washing or finishing standard Major
Q5 Garment Shape (Knit wear) Major
Q6 Side seam twisted >2 cm or 5% of the length of side seam Major

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Raw materials and Components
Fabric
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
F1 Cuts, holes, tears, Broken yarn Major Major
F2 Weight +/- 5% (knitwear) Major Major
F3 Handle / softness different to quality standard Major Major
F4 Print/Design different to specification Major Major
F5 Wash effect different to quality standard Major Major
F6 Fabric flaws, Barrie’, weaving faults, slubs longer than 2cm Major Minor
F7 Color bleeding Major Major
F8 Foreign particles caught into the fabric (contamination) Major Major
F9 Stop marks, broken / missing pick and fill in woven Major Minor
F10 Needle lines in a knitted fabric Major Minor
F11 Bowing or skewing of the fabric Major Minor
F12 Knot or repair that affects appearance of the fabric Major Major
F13 Dye spots that are obviously noticeable Major Minor
Trims – button, stud etc
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
T1 Defective, broken, cracked Major Major
T2 Not as design/ specification requirement Major Minor
T3 Omission of component Major Minor
Zippers
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
T6 Incorrect zipper type/size/color used Major Minor
T7 Zipper not auto-stop as specified Major Major
T8 Top or bottom metal clip stick out and form a sharp point. Major Major
T9 Invisible zipper showing due to improper stitching Major Minor
T10 Zipper end not securely finished. Major Major
T11 Zipper waving Major Minor

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Aesthetics
Color
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
C1 Colour different to standard Major Major
C2 Shade bar Major Minor
C3 Shade parts (panel to panel) Major Minor
C4 Off approved shade band (tops to bottoms) Major

Appearance
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
G1 Impression marks, glazing, abrasion Major Minor
G2 Pleats visible, excess crease Major Minor
G3 Mould Major Major
G4 Infestation Major Major
G5 Dampness Major Major
G6 Excessive odor Major Major
Cleanliness and thread trimming
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
D1 Spot cleaning circle Major Major
D2 Dirt, chalk mark, oil stain over 0.5cm in diameter Major Minor
D3 Threads not trimmed over 3cm Major Minor
D4 Excessive quantity and length of loose threads Major Major
Printing
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
P1 Design or color different to specification Major Major
P2 Printing design not clear Major Minor
P3 Uneven printing (smudging) Major Minor
P4 Printing off registration Major Minor
P5 Cracking of print Major Major
Embroidery
Code Defect Zone A Zone B
E1 Design, size, color different to specification Major Minor
E2 Crooked, tight tension of thread Major Minor
E3 Uneven in shape Major Minor
E4 Not level Major Minor
E5 Off Position over 1cm Major Minor
E6 Omitted, incomplete Major Major
E7 Broken, loose stitch, unraveling Major Major

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Construction
Layered Construction
(Pocket/ flap/ Zipper stand/ Placket/ Waistband/ Cuff/ Collar)
Code
Defect Zone A Zone B

A1 Pleated, twisted or bulging Major Minor

A2 Distorted, poorly Shaped Major Minor

A3 Misaligned over 0.3cm (flap over a pocket) Major Minor

A4 Underneath visible on front (under collar showing) Major Major

A5 Uneven in width Major Minor

A6 Fullness unevenly distributed Major Minor

A7 Paired components not symmetrical in shape or position Major Minor

A8 Hi Lo over 0.5cm, 2 pockets / yoke seams Major Minor

A9 Collar points which vary more than 2.5mm Major Major

A10 Uneven placket width Major Major

A11 Top and bottom placket uneven in length by 3 mm+ Major Major

Sewing

Code Defect Zone A Zone B

S1 Run off stitching, over 2 steps Major Minor

S2 Twist seam (roping) Major Minor

S3 Puckering Major Minor

S4 Open seam (non-inclusion) Major Major

S5 Wrong sewing thread Major Minor

S6 Skip stitch Major Minor

S7 Broken stitch, over 1 step for washed garment Major Minor

S8 Drop stitch (knit wear) Major Major

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 S9 Wrong tension Major Minor

S10 Raw edge over 1cm (over locking) Major Major

S11 Distortion Major Minor

S12 Un-slightly over-lapping stitch (untidy joint) Major Minor

S13 Misalignment over 0.3cm Major Minor

S14 Needle damage Major Major

Button / Stud/ Buttonhole / Keyhole

Code Defect Zone A Zone B

B1 Incorrect size of buttonhole/keyhole for button/stud Major Minor

B2 Button/Stud and buttonhole not aligning Major Major

B3 Button and buttonhole position not as specification required Major Minor

B4 Incomplete stitching or uncut buttonhole/keyhole Major Minor

B5 One or more skipped stitches in buttonhole Major Minor

B6 Buttonhole fraying causing button to catch on thread Major Major

B7 Buttonhole poorly stitched affecting appearance Major Minor

B8 Engraved button/stud placed upside down Major Minor

B9 Buttonhole/Keyhole fraying around edges Major Minor

B10 Button or buttonhole thread color different to specification Major Minor

B11 Not attached securely Major Major

31. QC Inspector Reports
FCQC must complete and sign all copies of inspection reports. The inspection report if
requested will be sent to buyer offices the next working day after inspection.
QA Manager must sign all summary sheets and pass the report to merchandisers for
shipping and accounting processing.

QC Inspector must complete the final inspection report to include:

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 1. Workmanship Inspection Report
List comments on all points of workmanship which do not meet required standards
together with a final result Passed / Failed.

2. Measurement check report

A full measurement report records the measurement of at least 3 pieces in each size. If a
measurement falls outside the zone of tolerance, it is circled.

3. The shipment letter (Summary Page with packing details)

Indicates the final result upon which the QC has agreed.
The factory will be asked to sign the reports and receive a copy. The shipment release
letter (SRL) will only be released once results have been reviewed and shipment released.

4. Accepted
All sheets to be signed by factory QA manager, Factory manager and a copy of the SRL
passed over for release of shipment.

5. Reject
If the goods do not pass inspection, the QC Inspector cannot release the SRL to the
factory.
Without the shipment release letter, factories have no authorization to ship the goods
This report must be filed at the front of the case file within a maximum of 1 day following
inspection.
In case buyer QA needs to do confirmation, QC should fax or email the reports to the
attention of the buyer QA no later than 1 day following the inspection.

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32. Closing Meeting after Inspection
Immediately following the FCQC inspection, QC will hold a meeting with factory quality &
production personnel to review the result of the inspection.

An authorized representative of the factory must sign the inspection reports to

acknowledge their understanding of the QC report:
a) Understand and review all findings of QC inspector
b) Rise questions and suggestions
c) Liaise with production staff and main office to solve problem

Inspection results
The QC inspector indicates the inspection results clearly on the QC reports.
Merchandising follows up with factory and /or customer if the shipment day is affected.

Passed
The shipment is released.
The Shipment Release letter will be released to factories.
Files can be returned to Merchandising after QA manager sign off copies of final inspection
report.

Rejected
In case the shipment is rejected, the factory management and QC have to agree a
corrective action.

Repairable
If possible the factory must repair the faults and a second final inspection be arranged.
If the goods can be repaired quickly or out sorted as only a small percentage
The factory will then proceed with this process immediately, and a 2nd final inspection
arranged.

Non-repairable
QC reports the case to QC manager and Merchandising
Merchandising advises customer to see if the defect can be accepted or not.
Merchandising follows up with the factory afterward.
Following is the possible outcome:
a) Customer takes in the goods with discount
b) Style cancelled and not replaced
c) Style to be replaced

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Repairable but time not allowed for the same shipment date to be maintained
BUYER QC advises QA manager and the merchandiser of this situation
Merchandising follows up with the factory for a solution
Merchandising informs the customer of a late shipment and obtains their further
instruction.

Following is the possible outcome:

a) A new shipment date agreed with the customer.
b) If the customer will not agree to a delayed shipment, an agreement must be reached
between customer/ Factory about “how to ship”.
c) Send to Customer for further comment. Customer may accept goods or they may
require a discount to accept

Signatures
QC - must sign all copies once factory representatives signed.
QA Manager - must sign all summary sheets.

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33. Shipment Release Procedure
Purpose
To ensure the shipment is released to the forwarders with proper QC inspector sign off on
final inspection report/Letter.

Scope
No shipment should leave the country without passing FCQC/Buyer QA inspection. All
related departments work closely together to ensure no faulty lot to be shipped to
customers.

Responsibility
FCQC issues Shipment Release Report/Letter when the shipment passes final inspection
The vendor has to present passed cargo to the forwarder.
The forwarder cannot take in any merchandise if the factory cannot present pass shipment
release evidence when they deliver the cargo to the forwarder.

Procedure
1. Issue of shipment release report/Letter - QC issues SRL if the final inspection is
passed.
2. Original copy - stays in the QC File
3. Give copy to the factory on site
4. Shipping Department should have access on passed merchandise latest within 2
working days after the inspection day
5. The vendor FCQC inspector, QA manager, Merchant & Factory manager should sign
the SRL at the factory
6. Shipping department to follow up the shipping processes with the forwarder.
7. Expenses related to shipment cancellation: The vendor is responsible for any
additional expenses related to shipment cancellations, due to failed inspections, late or
missing SRL’s.
8. Processing by the FORWARDER - the customer’s Forwarder should accept cargo, only
if vendor can present copy of the SRL to them. If goods arrive without such SRL, they
should contact our Shipping department for confirmation.
9. Failed inspections: In case the goods failed to pass final inspection FCQC will stop the
shipment at the factory. The shipping department will also notify the forwarder
accordingly to cancel the shipping booking and ask them not to accept the cargo.

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34. 5S System
5S comes from 5 Japanese words and each of them starts with S.
These are Sort, Set in Order, Shine, Standardize, and Sustain.
5S
Japanese Seire Seiton Seiso Seiketsu Shitsuke
English Sort Set in Order Shine Standardise Sustain
Basic Concepts for 5S
S1 - Sort
Sort means to separate items according to characteristics and importance.

S2 – Set in Order
All items, sections, and areas are clearly identified by a label and everything should be well
organized.
Never mix/store two category items in one place.
If you keep all of your store materials in a planned order basis, then whenever required
that materials you can easily find out and get those materials.

S3 – Shining
Actually mean cleanliness.
All items/place of workplace Floors, walls, stairs, ceilings, Racks, cabinets, shelves,
Machines, equipment, tools, stored items, materials, products, and lighting everything
required to be kept clean.
All cleaning tools and materials are easily accessible.
Cleaning assignments are defined and are being followed by the checklist and hang
checklist on visible board.
Do periodical pest control to make sure there is no insect.
Cleanliness is not only a compliance issue but also this increase a healthy working
environment in the company.

S4 – Standardize
The first three steps of 5S are the key to implement 5S in the workplace.
This section is about visualization by Information displays, related SOPs, signs, color coding
and other markings are established everywhere in the factory
Do regular 5’s audit using a checklist, give & post rating to each area.
Need formal training, keep training records to approach towards improvement.
These standardizations increase the operating efficiency of the industry.

S5 – Sustain
This is to maintain 5S to be the way of life rather than just a routine.
Success stories are being displayed (before and after pictures) in every section of the 5S
board.
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Give rewards and recognition is part of the 5S system to sustain 5S.
Advantages of 5S if properly implemented

1. Health and Safety is ensured

2. The base of implementation of quality improvement
3. Productivity Increase
4. Save time, cost and storage space
5. Minimization of accidents & mistakes
6. Increases efficiency
7. Creates workplace ownership
8. The first step for Lean procedures
9. Increase customer satisfaction
10. Reduce inventory time
11. Reduce downtime, wastage
12. Good working environment
13. Visualization and labeling
14. Boost morale
15. Improve company image
16. Optimize organization and workplace as per requirement
17. Routine wise work schedule and visual Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)
everywhere
18. Everybody knows their working responsibility where and when
19. Disciplined housekeeping

Must follow below while implementing 5S.

1. Need central 5S committee and section-wise subcommittee

2. 5S organogram and committee list
3. Section-wise 5S checklist
4. 5S display board in every section
5. Make a separate T-shirt for a committee
6. Conduct 5s training and drive for good housekeeping
7. Conduct a section-wise 5S audit and submit a report.
8. Evaluate score and take corrective action for improvement in every department.

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 Actions need to Implement 5S

1. Take “before” photographs.

2. Check that the first three S’s are implemented properly.
3. All team activity documents/checklists should be publicly displayed on a 5S board.
4. Establish the routines and standard practices for regularly and systematically
repeating the first three S’s.
5. Standardize red tag procedures and holding area rules
6. Create a maintenance system for housekeeping. Make a schedule for cleaning the
workplace. A common approach is to ask a cross-functional team to do it.
7. Inter-departmental competition is an effective means of sustaining and enhancing
interest in 5S.
8. Assign responsibility to individuals for a work area and machinery.
9. Regular inspection/audit and evaluation by a special team (including senior
management persons) to be continued.
10. Instead of criticizing poor cases, praise and commend good practices or good
performers.
11. Take “after” photographs and post them on the 5S board(s).
12. Give a reward for the top-scoring section.

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 SPINNING QUALITY PROCESS

THE STEPS AND NORMAL TESTS DONE IN SPINNING LABORATORY

THE COMBED PROCESS

THE CARDED PROCESS

COTTON (MIXING AREA)

Supervising operators sorting contaminated cotton and wastes that is to say foreign matter

CARDING

Testing of hank variation is done twice in a shift; 8 samples of meters each are taken from the carding
machine. The standard hank is maintained at 0.1200 and the weight should between 22.5-24.9g. If the results
do not suit to the required values the re-test is done and the machine is adjusted by inserting the actual hank
to correct to the required standard.

U% test neps and trash; the silver from the machine is put on the measuring slots of the uster tester 3
machine and the results are displayed on the screen and printed. If the results do not suit to the required
values suggestions to change flat bars on the machine for proper carding values. The U% standard is
maintained at 4.0%.

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DRAW FRAME BREAKERS (1&2)

At this stage the process is the same with that on the carding but here hank variation is done after two hours
and, 10 samples of 5 meters each from the machine. The standard hank and the variations of the weight range
is the same. But the U% standard here is maintained at 3.0%.

LAP FORMER

Here we test for the lap weight and hank variation; range weight is between 68-70g/m. if the results do not
suit to the required values the machine can be worked on or the adjustment is done on draw frame breakers.
The standard hank is maintained at 0.0085.

COMBERS ( 1,2,3)

Testing of hank variation here is done once in a shift; 5 samples of 5 meters each are taken from the comber
machine. The standard hank is maintained at 0.1200 and the weight should between 22.5-24.9g. If the results
do not suit to the required values the re-test is done and the machine probably adjusted by the mechanics.

Testing of noil% is done once in a shift if the machine not disturbing the operator; 3 samples of noil and 3
samples of silver is collected from the machine and the percentage of average total weight of noil divided by
average total weight of silver is calculated. The standard of noil% is 18.00.

U% test neps and trash; the silver from the machine is put on the measuring slots of the uster tester 3
machine and the results are displayed on the screen and printed. The U% standard here is maintained at
3.0%.

DRAW FRAME FINISHERS (1&2)

The process is the same with that on draw frame breakers but here the range weight is between 26.4-26.8g
and standard hank is maintained at 0.110. If the results do not suit to the required values the machine is
adjusted by inserting the actual hank and the poor material is re-run and the process continues. The process
of testing the U% is the same with that on breakers but here the standard is 2.50.

SPEED FRAMES

Testing of hank variation is done once in a shift; 5 samples from 6 rovings and 15 meters being the length of
samples. The standard hank is maintained at 0.8500 and the weight should be between 10.40-10.70g. If the
results do not suit to the required values adjustment is done on draw frame finishers and the poor roving is
sorted out.

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U% test neps and trash; the roving from the machine is put on the measuring slots of the uster tester 3
machine and the results are displayed on the screen and printed The U% standard is maintained at 3.3%.

RING FRAMES

Test of count variation is done once in a shift if there is no change of count; 10 samples from the machine are
put on the manual wrapper and 100 meters are wrapped to compute the actual count. If the results do not suit
to the required values adjustment of the machine is done and also attending to finishers and speed frames.

U% test neps and trash; the yarn from the machine is put on the measuring slots of the uster tester 3 machine
and the results are displayed on the screen and printed The U% standard is maintained at 9.5% for count
28CH and 30CH, 9.0 for count 24CH and 28KH is 11.0.

AUTOCORNER

Test of count variation is done once in a shift if there is no change of count; 10 samples from the machine are
put on the manual wrapper and 100 meters are wrapped to compute the actual count. If the results do not suit
to the required values adjustment is done on ring frames.

U% test neps and trash; the yarn from the machine is put on the measuring slots of the uster tester 3 machine
and the results are displayed on the screen and printed The U% standard is maintained at 9.5% for count
28CH and 30CH, 9.0 for count 24CH and 28KH is 11.0

Revised DATE:15/JULY/2022

Reason for revising is due to spinning quality process /knitting quality process/dying quality process
/printing and embroidery was not captured in the quality manual covering the entire factory process

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