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Crochet Beginners and Beyond
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GAILLE
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a u s t r a l i a n
We have an incredible assortment

of patterns in this issue and I am
4 | HOMESPUN Crochet
CONTENTS
14 Summer Lace Tee 20 Frangipani Bunting 26 Sweet Soleil Coasters
32 Nursery Bear Rug 38 Queenslander 44 Easy Wash Baby

Alpaca Baby Blanket
ARTICLES
8 The Humble
Crochet Hook
56 Beginning of
Blackwattle
80 Crochet Fitness
118 What Is A CAL?
50 The Blackwattle 62 Granny Square

Bunny Cocoon Jacket
68 Summer Flower 74 Bobble Brilliance 84 Cabana Clutch
Wreath
90 Coast Crochet 96 Glittering Petals 100 Pepe Leg Warmers

Blankie
106 Summer Poncho 112 Tree of Life 124 Wave

Wall Hanging
HOMESPUN Crochet | 7
Image C
The humble
CROCHET HOOK
BY @ABBEYMADE
Image by AbbeyMade
Point
Throat
Shaft
Thumb rest
Lip / nose
Mouth / bowl
Handle
Image B1
Image by AbbeyMade
Image B2
Walk into any large variety store or ‘big hooks have come a long way from those Image A
box’ craft store and you’ll probably see a cold little grey ones you can find in the
small display of steel, plastic, aluminium or obvious places. So where to start?
bamboo standard crochet hooks in their
homewares section. Along with readily LET’S LOOK AT THE
available acrylic yarn, this is usually where ANATOMY OF A HOOK
beginners start. The new crocheter watches (IMAGES B1 & B2)
a YouTube video on how to crochet and Point: The very tip of the hook.
instantly becomes frustrated with their Throat: This is the sloped part just after
inability to create their chosen masterpiece. the hook point.
The yarn is undone countless times and Shaft: This is where you measure your
begins to split. The hook tip just won’t do hook diameter.
what it’s told. Sound familiar? This was my Thumb rest: Stamped or carved after
experience. Image A shows my first couple the throat – some hooks don’t have a
of hook purchases. The left two are still used thumb rest.
but the right two are only kept as examples Handle: The part of the hook held in
of my most hated hooks. the hand.
Image by AbbeyMade
Something that those totally new to Mouth/bowl: Holds the yarn while it is
crochet often don’t know is that those being pulled through stitch/es.
easily accessible crochet hooks are not Lip/nose: Keeps the yarn in the mouth/
favoured by those ‘in the know’. Crochet bowl while making stitches.
THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING HOOKS
Timber, laminated timber (layers of timber glued and pressed

together), aluminium, bamboo, plastic, steel.
Many crocheters like working in one material in cold weather and
another when it’s hot. In Australia, it’s prudent to factor in our humid
Material
weather. Bamboo hooks can feel awful when it’s humid and steel
hooks can be squeaky. Metal hooks can upset some hands with long-
term use in the cold. Timber and bamboo can chip/splinter if not
stored well and may catch on fine fibres.
A thumb grip is carved or machine pressed into the hook itself. Often
Thumb grip the hook size and brand is stamped into the thumb grip, which gives it
a raised texture.
An ergonomic handle rather than a thumb grip can be ideal for those
Handle with health issues such as arthritis. It stops the hand pinching in too
closely when crocheting.
Blunt, sharp, long or short. The preference for a certain type of hook
shape is often determined by the type of stitches being worked
Hook tip and the style of crocheter. None is wrong but opinions can differ
markedly about what style is best! The hooks in Image C are my
favourite hook tips.
Some hooks have a lip that is longer or shorter than necessary. These
hooks can be frustrating to use as yarn can slip off a hook with a short
lip and a long lip takes more movement to pull yarn out of the bowl.
Lip/nose Look for a lip somewhere in between.
Also keep an eye out for a lip that protrudes wider than the shaft
(Image D). This hook unnecessarily widens holes to get the lip
through, distorting the size of the stitch.
Machine made hooks are made by pressing or cutting a set shape.

There is little to no curving of the hook parts, especially on the throat
and lip. Hooks are consistent and uniform.
Machine versus Handmade hooks are literally carved by hand, especially the tip,
handmade lip and mouth. Image E shows a commercial brand of hand carved
standard and Tunisian hooks. I purchased these hooks individually
at the start of my crocheting and no two are the same. This isn’t
necessarily bad but it is something to consider.
Expensive doesn’t always equal ‘good’. Some of the most expensive

Price hooks I’ve purchased are rarely used because there is something
about them I don’t enjoy. Alternatively, many cheap hook sets
available are also nasty. A middle range is often the most ideal.
Some hook brands are not readily available in Australia. Be aware that
Availability some large online platforms are awash with copies – if purchasing
online, look for reputable sellers.
Image E
HOW ABOUT TUNISIAN
CROCHET HOOKS?
Some functions of standard crochet hooks
are not ideal for Tunisian crochet. Thumb
grips and handles do not suit long rowed
Tunisian crochet and the pointiness of a
hook is often more important. Despite this,
the points described above are almost
all relevant to choosing Tunisian crochet
hooks. Consider the previous points along
with the style of hook you want to work with.
THERE ARE THREE MAIN

STYLES OF TUNISIAN
CROCHET HOOKS.
Singled ended: A rigid, long hook with a
stopper at one end and a hook on the other.
Lengths range from around 25cm to 40cm.
Double ended: Usually a rigid shaft with a
hook at both ends. You can use a double
ended hook to work in the round using
a spiral method (perfect for beanies and
cowls). It can also be used in flat pieces to
assist with colourwork. (One strand of yarn
makes the forward pass and anther strand
makes the return pass). (Image F).
Interchangeable: A hook at one end of
the shaft and a thread (screw in) or clip to
attach a cable at the other end. A stopper
is connected to the far end of the cable.
These hooks are good for long rows such as
blankets when there are too many stitches
to have on a shorter, rigid hook. The best
use for these hooks is to work in the round
in rows (not a spiral), which is especially
useful in garments. You can also turn these
into double ended hooks with a hook at
both ends of the cable.
Many brands have sets of
interchangeable Tunisian crochet hooks.
Before investing, I recommend testing out
a single hook in case you decide that brand
isn’t for you.
Double ended hooks are much harder
to find. Some brands don’t make them at
all and some that do have a different hook
size at each end. If this is all you can find, use
the larger size for the forward pass and the
smaller size for the return pass. A double
ended hook can be used for single ended
Image by AbbeyMade
applications by either ignoring the hook at

one end or attaching an elastic band to one
end as a stopper. Dual purpose hooks can be
Image F a way to save a bit of your hard-earned cash.
Image D
HERE’S MY TWO CENTS likely to stab themselves with a pointy hook hook. I use my Tunisian hooks for standard
Every experienced crocheter you speak to than I am! crochet because I like them so much! A lot
will probably have a strong view about their Views will sometimes depend on the of knitters I know will gravitate to a hook
favourite hooks. For example, I really don’t history of the crocheter. For example, I don’t with an ergonomic handle because it stops
like thumb grips, but I know many people knit. I learned Tunisian crochet before I arthritis flaring up.
who love them. I also refuse to use a round learned standard crochet. In consequence, The most important thing is that there
hook tip as they just won’t go through I favour pointed hooks, as do many Tunisian are no rights and wrongs, there are just
the holes I want them to. This is because I crocheters. And I don’t like thumb grips preferences and availability. Choose what
crochet firmly. A loose tensioned crocheter because they get in the way of loops of you can afford, arm yourself with a bit of
may love a round tip because they’re less Tunisian stitches that fill the length of the know-how and just go for it!
CROCHET #1 | EASY TUNISIAN
CROCHET
Summer
LACE TEE BY ABBEYMADE
This pattern is a perfect first Tunisian crochet garment.

It is made from two pieces in a pretty lace pattern with open
seams added to the shoulders and side seams.
The front piece is wider than the back and includes a tapered
underarm. Wear it as a summer top or layer with a singlet or
long-sleeved tee for added warmth.
Instagram: @abbeymade | Facebook: @abbeymade

Ravelry: abbeymade | Ribblr: abbeymade | YouTube: Abbey Made
MATERIALS
• Natural Fibre Arts Lux Sock (85%
superwash merino, 15% nylon – 100g,
400m/437y) in ‘Unicorn Tails’. See table
in the size section for approximate yarn
requirements for each size.
• 5mm interchangeable hook with
detachable cable (adjust hook size after
making gauge swatch). Smallest sizes
can be made with a rigid Tunisian crochet
hook about 30cm long.
ABBREVIATIONS &
TERMINOLOGY
See the crochet abbreviation page for
common crochet terms. All terms are
Australian/ UK. Terms shown below are
specific to this pattern.
Decrease. Also known as

Dec tss2tog. Insert hook under 2
vertical bars, yarn over and
draw up 1 loop.
Edge stitch. This is the

last loop picked up on the
Edge st forward pass. Best method
is to pick up both the front
and back loops of the edge st
every time.
Return pass. Work a RetP at

the conclusion of every row
RetP of Tunisian stitches
Ch 1, *yarn over, pull through
2 loops* until 1 loop remains
on the hook.
Split treble crochet 2

together (USA dc2tog). This
is used on the shoulder and
Split side seams. The first tr of the
tr2tog stitch starts on one side of the MAKE A GAUGE SWATCH
top, the second tr is made on Do not skip making a swatch. This is what Bind off: Tun sl st in top of each st
the other side of the top to determines the fit of the garment. including the edge st. Fasten off.
join them together. Foundation Row: Ch 26. Starting with Block by fully wetting the swatch,
2nd ch from hook, pick up a loop in the squeezing out the excess water and
Tfs Tunisian full stitch back bump of every ch. leaving it on a flat surface to dry. Only
RetP for all rows is ch 1, *yarn over, pull measure it once it is fully dry and do not
through 2 loops* until 1 loop remains. stretch out to measure.
Tss Tunisian simple stitch Row 2: *Dec, yo* 12 times, pick up a loop 17 sts x 15 rows = 10cm/4in square.
in edge st. (26 loops on hook.) The swatch will be a bit larger than the
Row 3: *Tss, tfs in hole made by yo* 12 10cm/4in square.
Yarn over. This counts as
times, pick up a loop in edge st. (26 loops If the swatch measurement is
an increase when made
Yo on hook.) significantly different, consider going up
in the forward pass as an
Repeat Rows 2-3 until swatch is a full or down a hook size. Getting this right will
independent stitch.
square, finishing with a Row 3. result in a top that fits as intended.
SIZES
XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL
There are nine sizes from XS to 5XL. The top
is intended to have a minimum of 10cm/4in
of positive ease all the way around the Garment
garment. This means the garment should measurement 85 95 105 115 125 135 145 155 165
be at least 10cm/4in wider than the largest cm
body measurement.
The intended wearer should measure the Garment
widest part of their torso (usually bust or measurement 33.5 37.4 41.3 45.3 49.2 53.1 57.1 61 65
waist). Choose the size that is at least 10cm inches
/4in wider than that measurement.
This top is lightweight and lacy, which
Yarn required
means it will cling closer to the body than a 150g 175g 200g 225g 250g 275g 300g 325g 350g
(approx.)
heavier garment. If more drape is preferred,
it is recommended to go up another size to
ensure more ease.
Instructions are expressed in the pattern as: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
FRONT
Foundation Row (1): Ch 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, Rows 1-64 complete the torso up to the 37, 41, 45, 47, 53, 57, 61) times, pick up a loop
112, 120, 128, 136). armpit. Row 65 onward is the top of the in edge st. 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120,
Starting with the 2nd ch from hook, pick top up to the shoulders. Check the height 128) loops on hook.
up a loop in the back bump of each ch. 72 of this torso section and add or subtract Rows 72-90: Repeat Rows 70-71. Row
(80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136) loops on rows to adjust the length. Note that after 90 will be a row with holes (Row 70
hook. Complete row with a RetP (not stated washing, the top will likely ‘drop’ down, so instructions). The number of rows can be
in further rows). please factor this in. adjusted in this section - ensure the last row
Row 2: *Dec, yo* 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 53, 59, 63, Row 65: Dec by inserting hook in 1st st and is a Row 70.
67) times, pick up a loop in edge st. 72 (80, from front to back of the first yo hole, pull Bind off: Dc in each st and yo hole. 64 (72,
88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136) loops on hook. up 1 loop. *Tss, tfs in hole made by yo* 33 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128) dc.
Row 3: *Tss, tfs in hole made by yo* 35 (39, (37, 41, 45, 49, 51, 57, 61, 65) times - there will Fasten off, but do not cut the yarn as it will
43, 47, 51, 53, 59, 63, 67) times, pick up a loop be 3 sts remaining to work. Dec by inserting be used in the shoulder seam.
in edge st. 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, hook in last st and yo hole, pull up 1 loop.
136) loops on hook. Pick up a loop in edge st. 70 (78, 86, 94, 102, BACK
Repeat Rows 2-3 until there are 64 rows. 110, 118, 126, 134) loops on hook. Foundation Row (1): Ch 64 (72, 80, 88, 96,
The easiest way to count them is the holes Row 66: Tss, dec, *dec, yo* 31 (35, 39, 43, 104, 112, 120, 128).
made in Row 2 – the first row of holes is Row 47, 49, 55, 59, 63) times - there will be 4 sts Starting with the 2nd ch from hook, pick
2, count by 2 for each row of holes. Row 64 remaining to work. Dec, tss, pick up a loop in up a loop in the back bump of each ch. 64
will be a Row 2 with holes – the 32nd row edge st. 68 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132) (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128) loops on
with holes. loops on hook. Place a marker on any part of hook. Complete row with a RetP (not stated
this row. This row will be the top of the side in further rows).
seam under the armpit. Row 2: *Dec, yo* 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54,
Row 67: Dec, *tss, tfs in hole made by yo* 31 58, 62) times, pick up a loop in edge st. 64
(35, 39, 43, 47, 49, 55, 59, 63) times - there (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128) loops on
will be 3 sts remaining to work. Dec, pick up hook.
a loop in edge st. 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114, Row 3: *Tss, tfs in hole made by yo* 30 (34,
122, 130) loops on hook. 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) times, pick up a
Row 68: Tss, dec, *dec, yo* 29 (33, 37, 41, loop in edge st. 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112,
45, 47, 53, 57, 61) times - there will be 4 sts 120, 128) loops on hook.
remaining to work. Dec, tss, pick up a loop in Rows 4-90: Repeat Rows 2-3. Row 90 will
edge st. 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128) be a Row 2 with holes in it. If fewer or more
loops on hook. rows were made on the front piece, ensure
Row 69: 2 tss, *tss, tfs in hole made by yo* that there are the same number of rows for
29 (33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 53, 57, 61) times - there the back to match.
will be 3 sts remaining to work. 2 tss, pick up Bind off: Dc in each st and yo hole. 64 (72,
a loop in edge st. 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128) dc.
120, 128) loops on hook. Fasten off, but do not cut the yarn as it will
Row 70: *Dec, yo* 29 (33, 37, 41, 45, 47, 53, be used in the shoulder seam.
57, 61) times, pick up a loop in edge st. 64 (72,
80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128) loops on hook. SHOULDER SEAMS
Row 71: *Tss, tfs in hole made by yo* 29 (33, Place the front and back pieces together
Image by AbbeyMade
with the right sides facing outward. The SIDE SEAMS
leftover working yarns from the front and Make the side seams after the shoulder
back will be on opposite sides. Use these seams so the top can be tried on and
strands to make the shoulder seams. tested for the optimal height of the side
Method: Start either with a standing tr seams – they can be as high or low as
or ch 2 then tr into the matching st on the preferred. Note that the front piece of the
opposite piece of the top (counts as 1st split top starts decreasing at the armpit height.
tr). *Ch 1, sk 1 st on both sides, split tr2tog It is therefore suggested not to join the
using the next st on each side* repeat as side seam higher than this point (where the
preferred. The sample has a total of 10 split marker was placed on Row 66 of the front).
tr2tog along the shoulder seam. Make this Attach yarn to the bottom corner of
shoulder seam narrower with fewer split one side with the right sides of the top
tr2tog or wider with more. Fasten off and facing outward.
cut yarn. Make the side seam using the same (split
Repeat on the other shoulder seam with tr2tog, ch 1) method as the shoulder seam
the same number of sts. from the foundation row up to the armpit.
The sample made a total of 32 split tr2tog
sts, which took the side seam right up to
where the front piece tapers in under the
armpit. It is not recommended to go higher
than the bottom of this taper but lower Side seam
would be suitable.
Repeat on the opposite seam with the
same number of sts as the first seam. Fasten wash. Rinse, push out excess water using
off and cut yarns when complete. your hands or roll it into a dry towel. Lay
the top out flat to dry in a shaded area.
FINISHING There is no need to pin or stretch – the
Weave in all the ends before or water will do that.
after blocking. Wet blocking will considerably open
Wet block by immersing the completed the lace stitches and eliminate any
Shoulder seam
top in lukewarm water and standard wool slanting of the lace pattern. C
ABBEY MADE
Instagram: @abbeymade | Facebook: @abbeymade | Ravelry: abbeymade
Ribblr: abbeymade | YouTube: Abbey Made
I first picked up a hook and some In the last two years, I have ensured
yarn in 2012 just to see if I could learn that all my patterns offer a size
Tunisian crochet from an article my inclusive range that is tested on real
Mum had written for a beginner. bodies. It gives me so much satisfaction
From that moment I was hooked. to see my designs adorning the bodies
I grabbed every book I could get of children, women and men.
my hands on and experimented. My patterns come with clear
There were some popular Tunisian instructions, charts, diagrams and
designers doing amazing things with video tutorials. They are available for
lace and shawls but not so much purchase on Ravelry, Etsy and Ribblr
with wearables, especially for the (go check out Ribblr: it’s great fun!)
Australian climate. I decided early on My top tips for trying Tunisian
that face washers and blankets were crochet for the first time: use yarn that
not my ‘jam’. I became determined doesn’t split easily and the pointiest
OW
GETTING TO KN to add to the repertoire of Tunisian hook you can find. My favourites are
THE DESIGNER crochet patterns that would appeal custom made in Sydney by @catch_
to wearers in warmer climates. hooks via Instagram.
CROCHET #2 | BEGINNER
Frangipani
BUNTING BY ELIZABETH CASTLE
Instagram: @castlehandmade | Facebook: @castlehandmade | Website: www.castlehandmade.com.au
YARN
DMC Happy Cotton (20g, 43m/47yds, light
DK weight, equivalent. to an Australian. 8 ply)
Colour 1: 20g, flower centre, yellow (787)
Colour 2: 40g, flower petals, white (762)
Colour 3: 60g each for flag outer colour -
green (783), blue (751), pink (760)
EQUIPMENT
• 3mm crochet hook
• darning needle
• scissors
• stitch markers
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Each flag measures approx. 12cm x 13cm.
Finished bunting (using nine flags)
measures approx. 1.9m in length.
NOTES
The magic ring can be replaced by a starting
chain ring (chain 4, sl st into the 1st chain).
CROCHET TERMS
See the crochet abbreviation page. All
terms are Australian/ UK.
TUTORIALS
Picot 4: Ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook.
Elongated dc / long dc / spike stitch:
Insert hook into the indicated stitch (this
is a row below the usual stitch), yarn over
and pull up a loop to the height of your
other stitches in the row. Yarn over and pull
through the two loops on your hook.
Standing dc: Used to join a new colour.
Start with a slip knot on your hook, insert
the hook into the indicated stitch, yarn
over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull
through the two loops on your hook.
PATTERN
Make nine flags.
Round 1: Using Colour 1, make a magic
ring, then ch 2 (does not count as a stitch),
15 tr into the ring. Sl st to the top of the
beginning tr. (15 tr) (Image A)
Round 2: Using Colour 2, attach yarn to any
tr using a sl st. *Ch 3, 2 dtr in same st as the
sl st, picot 4, [2 dtr, ch 3, sl st] in the next st.
1 elongated dc into the centre ring (Image
B). Sk 1 st, sl st in next st* 5 times, sl st in
beginning st. Fasten off. (5 petals) (Image C)
Use Colour 3 for Rounds 3-5, making
three flags per Colour 3.
Round 3: [Standing dc, ch 2, dc] in any
picot 4, *ch 4, dtr in next elongated dc of
Round 2, ch 4, [dc, ch 2, dc] in next picot 4*
4 times. Ch 4, dtr in next elongated dc, ch
4, sl st in beginning dc. (10 dc, 5 dtr, 5 ch 2 sp), 2 tr] in next ch sp. *1 tr in next 11 sts, [2 tr, FINISHING
spaces, 10 ch 4 spaces) (Image D) ch 2, 2 tr] in next ch 2 sp.* 1 tr in next 10 sts, Weave in all ends using a darning needle.
Round 4: [Sl st, ch 4 (counts as tr and ch 2 tr in next st. 3 dtr in next st (this becomes The flags may benefit from wet blocking
sp), tr] in next ch 2 sp. *4 tr in next ch 4 sp, tr the downward point of the flag). 2 tr in next prior to joining.
in next dtr, 4 tr in next ch 4 sp. [Tr, ch 2, tr] in st, 1 tr in next 10 sts, [2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr] in next ch
next ch 2 sp.* 4 tr in next ch 4 sp, tr in next 2 sp. Repeat from * to * once. (Place stitch JOINING THE FLAGS
dtr, 4 tr in next ch 4 sp. [Tr, dtr, tr] in next ch marker in the ch 2 space that was just made. Using Colour 2, ch 45, *dc in marked ch 2 sp
2 sp. Repeat from * to * twice. 4 tr in next ch It will be needed when joining your flags.) 1 of flag, dc in next 15 sts (along top edge of
4 sp, tr in next dtr, 4 tr in next ch 4 sp. Sl st in tr in next 11 sts, 1 tr in starting ch sp. Sl st in flag), dc in next ch 2 sp, ch 15*. Repeat from
3rd ch. (55 tr, 1 dtr, 4 ch spaces) (Image E) 3rd ch. Fasten off. (73 tr, 3 dtr, 4 ch spaces) * to * until all flags have been joined. Ch 30
Round 5: [Sl st, ch 4 (counts as tr and ch (Image F) more. Fasten off. C
Image A Image B Image C
Image by Elizabeth Castle
Image D Image E Image F
CROCHET #3 | INTERMEDIATE
TO ADVANCED
Sweet Soleil
COASTERS BY FARRAH TATE
The Sweet Soleil Coasters are two textured crochet

coaster designs – a flower shaped coaster and a star shaped
coaster. The final round for the flower shaped coasters is
simpler and quicker to make than the star shape.
Instagram: @TheCrochetFix | Facebook: @TheCrochetFix
twice, insert hook through st. Yarn over,
pull through a loop. Yarn over, pull through
two loops (three loops remaining). Yarn
over, pull through remaining three loops
on hook.
Invisible join: This can be used as a sl st join
substitute. Remove loop from hook. Insert
hook from back to front through both loops
of st that round join is to be made in. Put
loop back on hook and pull loop through st
(from front to back). Gently pull yarn end to
tighten join.
Puff: Yarn over, insert hook through st, yarn
over, pull through a loop (three loops on
hook). *Yarn over, insert hook back through
same st as before, pull through another
loop* three times (nine loops on hook). Yarn
over, pull yarn through eight loops (two
loops on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through
remaining two loops.
Double treble picot (dtr-pct): Yarn over
hook twice, insert hook through st. Yarn
over hook and pull through a loop (four
loops on hook). Yarn over hook and pull
through two loops on hook (three loops on
hook). Yarn over hook and pull through two
loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn
over hook and pull through remaining two
loops on hook (dtr made). Ch 4 and sl st into
top of dtr (inserting hook from back to front,
through both bl and fl of st) (picot made).
YARN CROCHET TERMS PATTERN – FLOWER AND STAR

4 Seasons Cocoon in shade 80529500 See the crochet abbreviation page. All Beg Circle: Make a circle, either using a
(burnt orange) and shade 80529489 terms are Australian/UK. magic ring or ch 3-4 and sl st into first ch to
(natural), 11g/0.4oz per coaster. close circle.
These coasters have been made using an TUTORIALS Round 1: Ch 2, 10 htr in circle, invisible join
8 ply/DK non-pilling acrylic, with a 3.5mm Double crochet 2 together cluster into first htr (sk beg ch 2). (10 htr)
hook. However, the pattern was also tested (dc2togcl): Insert hook through st, yarn Round 2: Ch 1, dc2togcl in bl of each st, sl st
by multiple testers using 8 ply/DK cotton over, pull through loop (two loops on hook). into top of first st (sk beg ch). (10 dc2togcl)
and varying hook size from 3.5mm to 4mm. Yarn over, insert hook back through same Round 3: (Ch 2, tr) in fl of first st (counts as
Any non-pilling, easy wash, 8 ply/DK weight st as before, and pull through another loop first tr2togcl), tr in bl of same st, *tr2togcl
yarn is suitable. (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull yarn in fl of next st, tr in bl of same st* 9 times. Sl
through remaining four loops on hook. st into first tr (sk beg ch 2). (10 tr2togcl and
EQUIPMENT Treble crochet 2 together cluster 10 tr)
• 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook (tr2togcl): Yarn over, insert hook through Round 4: Fptrstndst around first st, (htr,
• darning needle st, yarn over, pull through loop (three loops ch 1, htr) in 3rd loop of next st, *fptr around
on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two next st, (htr, ch 1, htr) in 3rd loop of next st*
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS loops (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert 9 times, sl st into beg fptrstndst. (10 fptr, 20
Flower coaster: Approximately 13cm/5.2in hook back through same st as before, pull htr, 10 ch 1 sps)
from petal peak to opposite petal peak. through another loop (four loops on hook). Round 5: Fptrstndst around first st, 2 tr in bl
Star coaster: Approximately 15cm/6in from Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops of next st, puff over next ch 1 sp, 2 tr in bl of
star point to opposite star point. (three loops on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn next st, *fptr around next st, 2 tr in bl of next
through remaining three loops on hook. st, puff over next ch 1 sp, 2 tr in bl of next st*
NOTES Front post standing stitch (fptrstndst): 9 times, sl st into beg fptrstndst. (10 fptr, 40
Fpdc + ch 2 can be substituted for fptrstndst. Ch 1, fpdc around first st post from tr and 10 puff)
Sl st can be substituted for invisible join. previous round. Ch 1, dc in fl of fpdc that Round 6: Ch 1, fpdc around first st, fpdc
Construct only one of Rnd 7A (Flower was just made. around each of the next 59 sts, sl st into first
option) or Rnd 7B (Star option). Half double treble (hdtr): Yarn over hook fpdc (skip beg ch 1). (60 fpdc)
FLOWER
Round 7: Note: Fpdc are constructed
around Round 6 fpdc and 9 tr shell are
constructed in Rnd 5 puff (working behind the
corresponding Round 6 st).
Ch 1, fpdc around first Round 6 fpdc, sk
next two Round 6 sts, 9 tr in next Round 5
puff (located behind the next Round 6 st), sk
next two Round 5/corresponding Round 6
sts, *fpdc over next Round 6 fpdc, sk next two
Round 6 sts, 9 tr in next Rnd 5 puff (located
behind the next Round 6 st), sk next two
Round 5/corresponding Round 6 sts* 9 times,
sl st into first fpdc (sk beg ch 1). (10 fpdc, 10
shell petals)
STAR
Round 7: Note: Fpdc are constructed
around Round 6 fpdc and all other sts are
made in a Round 5 st (working behind the
corresponding Round 6 st). Ch 1, fpdc around
first Round 6 fpdc, sk next Round 6 st, (htr, 2 tr)
in Round 5 st located behind the next Round
6 st, (hdtr, dtr-pct, hdtr) in next Round 5 puff,
(2 tr, htr) in next Round 5 st, sk next Round 5/
corresponding Round 6 st, *fpdc around next
Round 6 fpdc, sk next Round 6 st, (htf, 2 tr) in
Round 5 st located behind the next Round 6
st, (hdtr, dtr-pct, hdtr) in next Round 5 puff,
(2 tr, htr) in next Round 5 st, sk next Round 5/
corresponding Round 6 st* 9 times, sl st into
first fpdc (sk beg ch 1). (10 fpdc, 10 star points)
FINISHING
Fasten off yarn and sew in ends on reverse
side using a darning needle. C
FARRAH TATE
Instagram: @TheCrochetFix | Facebook: @TheCrochetFix
As a young girl, I chose a granny wait to show it off to the world.)

square vest as my second A friend’s mum said to me in a
crochet project. However, granny hushed voice, with a sympathetic
square clothing wasn’t exactly tone, "When I was little, my
high fashion for kids in mid 80s. mum used to make me wear my
What materialised was a very granny’s handmade items too."
ugly looking, not-so-neatly- Then she winked and whispered,
seamed vest, which sat very "I lost the ones I disliked the
awkwardly at the neckline. (Of most"… and then she looked my
OW
GETTING TO KN course, at the time, I thought vest up and down and nodded
THE DESIGNER it was amazing, and I couldn’t slowly, so I could catch her drift!
CROCHET #4 | EASY
Nursery
BEAR RUG BY JAY CRITCHLEY
Instagram: @jmadecreations | Email: jay@jmadecreations.com.au
YARN along with the textured Lola yarn. This tr* 7 times, 5 tr, sl st. (56 sts)
Sirdar Bigga with Fashion Yarn with Wool, makes it easier to keep track of stitches Round 7: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *6 tr, inc
50% Acrylic / 50% Wool (40m/44y, than using the textured yarn alone. tr* 7 times, 6 tr, sl st. (64sts)
100g) Add a non-slip backing if used on a Round 8: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *7 tr, inc
• Delta Blue 0688 (5 balls) slippery floor for safety. tr* 7 times, 7 tr, sl st. (72 sts)
• Black 0693 (1 ball) Round 9: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *8 tr, inc
Birch Creative Lola Yarn, 100% Polyester CROCHET TERMS tr* 7 times, 8 tr, sl st. (80 sts)
(53m/58y, 100g) See the crochet abbreviation page. All Round 10: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *9 tr, inc
• Arctic Fox (2 balls) terms are Australian/UK. tr* 7 times, 9 tr, sl st. (88 sts)
inc tr – 2 trebles in same st Round 11: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *10 tr, inc
EQUIPMENT tr2tog – treble crochet 2 together tr* 7 times, sl st. (96 sts)
• 10mm crochet hook MR - magic ring Fasten off and sew in end.
• wool darning needle BEAR BASE SNOUT
• stitch marker (helps keep track of Work in rounds using Delta Blue and Use Arctic Fox and 10mm hook.
your rounds) 12mm hook. Make bear base rounds 1-6.
Round 1: MR, ch 2, 11 tr into MR. Join with Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing
FINISHED SIZE sl st into 2nd ch. (12 sts) onto base.
66cm (26in) diameter Round 2: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, inc tr in
each stitch 11 times, sl st. (24 sts) EYE BASE (MAKE 2)
NOTES Round 3: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *2 tr, inc Use Black and 12mm hook.
If requiring a larger blanket, add an extra tr* 7 times, 2 tr, sl st. (32 sts) Round 1: Make a MR, ch 2, 7 tr into MR,
round using the same increase pattern to Round 4: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *3 tr, inc sl st. (8 sts)
the base, snout piece and eyes. tr* 7 times, 3 tr, sl st. (40 sts) Round 2: Ch 2, inc tr in every st, sl st.
When using a textured yarn like the Round 5: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *4 tr, inc (16 sts)
Birch Lola, it is sometimes tricky to count tr* 7 times, 4 tr, sl st. (48 sts) Fasten off and leave a long tail for
stitches. Use a matching colour 8 ply yarn Round 6: Ch 2, 1 tr into same st, *5 tr, inc sewing onto base.
EYE WHITES (MAKE 2) Use the photo as a guide to backstitch stitches completes the smile. Backstitch
Use Arctic Fox and 10mm hook. along the outside of the nose shape so it sits into each chain to secure smile onto snout.
Round 1: Make a MR, ch 2, 7 tr into MR, sl st snuggly on the white snout and little fingers
and tie off. (8 sts) cannot get caught. FINISHING
Leave a long tail to stitch to the eye base. Using the photo as a guide, place snout,
Stitch eye white in centre of eye (or as EARS (MAKE 2) ears and eyes on the base. Use the long tails
preferred). Use the photo as a guide for Use Arctic Fox and 10mm hook. to backstitch along the outside of the eyes
placement. Round 1: Make MR, ch 2, 5 tr in MR. (6 sts) and snout, ensuring little fingers cannot be
Round 2: Ch 2, turn, tr in same st, inc tr 5 caught in any gaps. When sewing the ears
NOSE times. (12 sts) on, slightly overlap them onto the back of
Use Black yarn and 10mm hook. Work Round 3: Ch 2, turn, tr in same st, (1 tr, 1 tr the rug and backstitch the ears, ensuring
in rows. inc), 5 times, 1 tr. (18 sts) that the edge of the base is securely
Row 1: Ch 16, tr in 2nd chain from hook, 1 tr Change to Delta Blue. stitched to the ear. C
in next 14 sts, turn. (15 sts) Round 4: Ch 2, turn, tr in same st, (2 tr, 1 tr
Row 2: Ch 2, tr2tog, 1 tr in next 10 sts, tr2tog, inc) 5 times, 2 tr. (24 sts)
turn. (12 sts) Round 5: Ch 2, turn, tr in same st, (3 tr, 1 tr
Row 3: Ch 2, tr2tog, 1 tr in next 8 sts, tr2tog, inc) 5 times, 3 tr. (30 sts)
turn. (10 sts) Fasten off and leave long tail to sew ear
Row 4: Ch 2, tr2tog, 1 tr in next 6 sts, tr2tog, on to rug base.
turn. (8 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, tr2tog, 1 tr in next 4 sts, tr2tog, BEAR SMILE
turn. (6 sts) Use Black and 10mm hook.
Row 6: Ch 2, tr2tog, 1 tr in next 2 sts tr2tog, Leave a long tail and chain 28-30 stitches
turn. (4 sts) (or desired length) to create the bottom
Row 7: Ch 1, tr2tog twice, turn. (2 sts) half of the snout and half of the smile. Use
Fasten off and leave a long tail to attach pins and the photo to guide placement
to snout. of chain stitches. A second chain of 18-20
JAY CRITCHLEY
Instagram: @jmadecreations | Email: jay@jmadecreations.com.au
My Mum and Gran taught me to When teaching myself to

sew and knit at a very young age crochet for the first time, I chose
and I have never really stopped an amigurumi unicorn. My
creating. Three years ago, I enthusiasm far outweighed my
taught myself to crochet and skill level, but I loved the project
have never stopped. Addicted so much I persisted. When
is an understatement. When I proudly showing my husband
am not at my day job, you will the finished unicorn, the swift
find me working on several reply, “What is it?” was so
crochet projects or teaching deflating. It’s hard work learning
others to knit and crochet a new skill! Luckily, a quick
at The Quilt Shop Eltham in photo sent to some crafty friends
Melbourne. There is a website affirmed my newfound skills (and
under construction, with plans to a lot of yarn unravelling) and that
run more classes and empower the finished amigurumi did look
OW others to create as well. One day, like a unicorn as intended. That
GETTING TO KN those designs currently in my unicorn now sits on display at
THE DESIGNER head will become a reality! The Quilt Shop.
Image by Jay Critchley
CROCHET #5 | EASY
QUEENSLANDER BY HANNAH SMITH
Queenslander is a generously sized triangular shaped shawl inspired

by a vintage collar pattern published in The Queenslander in 1924.
The Queenslander was the weekend magazine edition of the main
newspaper in Brisbane, The Brisbane Courier.
The shawl uses a top-down construction, starting with the longest edge
of the triangle. It features triangular netting and edging with elongated
treble clusters and is finished with picots. Because of the construction
method, it is easy to modify for a different gauge or to adjust the size.
Website: www.ravelry.com/designers/hannah-smith
YARN
Scheepjes Woolly Whirl 4 ply/fingering
(1000m/1094y, 220g), 1 ball of #473,
Kiwi Drizzle
EQUIPMENT
• darning needle
TENSION/GAUGE
Netting: 7 net motifs is 7in wide x 4.5in
deep using size 3mm hook after blocking
(excludes edging).
Edging is 2in wide after blocking.
A gauge swatch is recommended with
seven repeats (7 loops) of netting Row 1.
An odd number of repeats is needed to
ensure the correct placement for the
edging.
Total width 200cm/79in and total length
127cm/50in.
CROCHET TERMS
terms are Australian/UK.
loop – short for the next ch 8 space
TUTORIALS
Edtrcl - elongated double treble cluster
stitch. In elongated clusters, instead of pulling
the yarn through the top of the three partially
made stitches at the end, you pull the yarn
through two stitches at a time. Method: *yarn
over twice, insert hook into ch loop, yo, draw
up a loop (yo, pull through 2 loops)* three
times; *yo, pull through 2 loops* three times.
P - picot. Ch 3, slip stitch into the first chain.
Round 1 Bottom Edge: Round 2:
PATTERN With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the Dc in the dc from the round below.
Netting top of the tr at the end of Row 1 with a slip *Dc in the dc from the round below, ch,
Row 1: Ch 6, tr into the first ch, (ch 8, tr into stitch and make 1 dc in the same tr picot, ch, (tr, ch, picot, ch, tr in the next ch
the 2nd ch) until you have 75 loops. An odd (see chart). sp, ch, picot, ch) twice, dc in the dc from the
number of repeats is needed to ensure the Ch 4, *in the next loop (edtrcl, ch 4) 3 round below* until you reach the cluster at
correct placement for the edging. times, dc in the next loop* until you reach the tip of the shawl.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, dc into the first loop, (ch the tip of the shawl. Dc in the dc from the round below, ch,
7, tr into the 1st ch, ch 1, dc in the next loop) Ch 4, in the tip loop (edtrcl, ch 4) 5 times, picot, ch, (tr, ch, picot, ch, tr in the next ch
until the end of the row. dc in the next loop. sp, ch, picot, ch) twice, dc in the dc from the
Each row will have one fewer loops than Ch 4, *in the next loop (edtrcl, ch 4) 3 round below.
the previous row. times, dc in the next loop* along the side of *Dc in the dc from the round below, ch,
Repeat Row 2 until the final row contains the shawl, placing the last dc in the same ch picot, ch, (tr, ch, picot, ch, tr in the next ch
only one loop. (7 rows) as the 1st tr from Row 1. sp, ch, picot, ch) four times, dc in the dc
Break yarn and fasten off. Continue working in the round, across from the round below* along the side of the
Edging the Neck edge: shawl, dc into the dc from the round below
The edging is made in the round around the *(2 dc, picot, 2 dc) in the space made by and fasten off.
sides of the shawl. It continues across the the tr in Row 1, 3 dc in the next ch 2 space*
neck edge and then around the sides of the until the last space made by the tr in Row 1, FINISHING
shawl again. (2 dc picot 2 dc) in the space made by the tr. Weave in ends and block. C
HANNAH SMITH
Website: ravelry.com/designers/hannah-smith
I once bought three winder so I could ply it up

enormous cones of very fine into something usable. The
unknown and very dusty whole thing was a complete
yarn from an op shop. I had failure. I did manage to ply
grand plans for it. I spent and wind enough yarn to
hours working my way down knit a dish cloth before it
to the layer that wasn’t dirty was shamefully hidden away
and using all the techniques in the back of the cupboard
my mother taught me to for years only to be returned
identify the fibre. (I’m sure to the same op shop when
OW
GETTING TO KN it was 100% cotton.) I then I was desperate for yarn
THE DESIGNER bought an electric ball storage space.
Image by Hannah Smith
KEY
sl slip stitch
ch chain
dc double crochet
tr treble crochet
EdtrCl elongated double treble cluster stitch
p picot
Place both dc in the dc

from the round below
CROCHET #6 | EASY
Easy Wash Baby Alpaca
BABY BLANKET BY YVONNE LARKING
This crocheted baby blanket is warm, soft and luxurious

whilst being easy to care for. It uses Easy Wash Indiecita Baby
Alpaca yarn, which is machine washable. The one row pattern
is simple to do yet it provides the blanket with texture and
interest. The simple border is timeless and effective
– great for a baby heirloom.
YARN
Indiecita Baby Alpaca double knit (Australian
8 ply/dk, 50g, 113m, 124y) 10 balls
EQUIPMENT
• 4.5mm crochet hook
• darning needle for sewing in ends
Approximately 80cm /32.5in square before
blocking. The number of stitches can be
altered in multiples of 4 if a wider or narrower
blanket is required, but the amount of yarn
may need to be modified accordingly.
NOTES
The right side of the blanket is set by the
last row and the border rows.
CROCHET TERMS
PATTERN
Row 1: Ch 140 with medium tension (not
too tight or loose).
(2 tr) in 4th ch from hook, sk 3 ch, dc in next
ch, ch 3, (3 tr) in next ch, *sk 3 ch, dc in next
ch, ch 3, (3 tr) in next ch* to end, dc in last st,
ch 3 (counts as a treble throughout), turn.
Row 2: (2 tr) in dc from previous row, *fpdc
around the 3rd tr of the 3 tr group, ch 3, (3
tr) in next ch 3 sp* to the end, finishing the
row with a dc around 3rd tr of the 3 tr group.
Ch 3, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until 9 balls of the yarn have
been used and crochet 2 more rows using
the 10th ball.
Last Row: (2 tr) in the dc from previous row
*dc in 3rd tr of the 3 tr group, (3 tr) in next
dc* to end, finishing with a dc in top of the
ch 3 of previous row. Do not break the yarn.
BORDER
Row 1: Turn work 90 degrees with ch 1 to
begin crocheting down the left side of the
blanket. Work 3 dc into each row of the
pattern down the left side. Work 3 dc in the
corner st. Work dc along the bottom edge
evenly, then 3 dc in the corner and then dc
evenly up the right side.
Row 2: Ch 1, dc in next st, *sk 2 sts, (5 tr)
in next st, sk 2 sts, dc in each of next 2 sts*
around the whole blanket. Adjust the sk sts
where necessary to ensure the corners each
end in a dc and work 3 dc into each corner.
FINISHING
Sew in all loose ends. Block once finished,
size will increase from unblocked size
given above. C
CROCHET #7 | INTERMEDIATE
The Blackwattle
BUNNY
PATTERN CREATED BY TEAM BLACKWATTLE
Email: team@blackwattleyarn.com.au | Webite: blackwattleyarn.com.au
AMIGURUMI TIPS YARN Row 2: 6 inc. (12)
This pattern, like most amigurumi, is worked Blackwattle Banksia (Australian 8 ply Row 3: *Dc, inc*, 6 times. (18)
in rounds, noted here as Row 1, Row 2 etc. equivalent, 70% superwash merino/30% Row 4: *2 dc, inc* 6 times. (24)
The trick is to place stitch markers (lengths of hemp, 230m/251y, 96 – 98g) Row 5: *3 dc, inc* 6 times. (30)
scrap yarn work well) and then count to make • 100 grams of bunny main colour (MC) Row 6: 2 dc, inc, *4 dc, inc* 5 times, 2 dc.
sure the number of stitches matches the • 20 grams of a contrast colour for paws (36)
number in brackets at the end of each row. and inner ears (CC) Row 7: *5 dc, inc* 6 times. (42)
One of the most important aspects of an • 20 grams of an additional colour for paw Row 8: 3 dc, inc, *6 dc, inc* 5 times, 3 dc.
amigurumi is to have even solid fabric, with pads and inner ears - 2nd option (PC) (48)
no gaps showing stuffing between stitches. • 10 grams for a scarf Row 9: *7 dc, inc* 6 times. (54)
This is achieved in a number of ways - • 10 grams of embroidery thread or wool Rows 10–12: 54 dc. (54)
particularly by using a hook several sizes for the nose On Row 12, place a stitch marker at sts 7,
smaller than the one usually recommended 15 and 23 to help place the eyes and nose
for that size yarn. OTHER MATERIALS during the assembly phase. The marker at
This pattern has options for changing or • 3mm crochet hook 15 is the middle of the bunny head and will
adding character to your finished bunny, • stuffing help you attach the ears. Markers 7 and 23
and we will suggest “placement points” for • tapestry needle are for the placement of the eyes.
markers to insert eyes and to attach limbs. • scrap yarn to act as stitch or row markers Row 13: *Dc, inc* 3 times, 16 dc, inc, *dc, inc*
Stuffing – the head needs to be stuffed • safety eyes or yarn to embroider a child- 3 times, 25 dc. (61)
quite firmly (about as dense as a tennis safe eye Row 14: 61 dc. (61)
ball). You can choose how firmly you stuff • eyeshadow/pencils to add details (if Row 15: *2 dc, inc* twice, 3 dc, inc, 18 dc, inc,
the body or may like to use bead fill to give desired) 3 dc, *inc, 2 dc* twice, 23 dc. (67)
a different effect. The arms and legs are • a fork to make the tail pom pom Rows 16–23: 67 dc. (67)
usually best not filled too firmly to allow • a pair of scissors Row 24: *Dec, 7 dc* 5 times, dec, 8 dc, 2
them to be posed. dec, 8 dc. (59)
Our Blackwattle Bunny starts at the nose BUNNY HEAD Row 25: 18 dc, inc, dc, inc, 28 dc, dec, 8 dc.
and will progress round to the back, so your With MC, make a magic ring. (60)
stitches must be neat. Row 1: 6 dc into the ring. (6) Row 26: 60 dc. (60)
This is a good time to insert the eyes. If EAR EXTERNAL Do not attach the ears with the bottom
you are using safety eyes, consider adding With MC, ch 23. edge flat against the head.
a dollop of hot glue to ensure they do not Row 1: (2 dc) in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 3
move. htr, 9 tr, 2 htr, (3 dc) into the last ch, turn, 2 BODY
Row 27: *Dec, 6 dc* 5 times, dec, 9 dc, dec htr, 9 tr, 3 htr, 5 dc. (44) With MC make a magic ring.
(place marker), 9 dc. (54) Place stitch marker – this should be just Row 1: 6 dc into the ring. (6)
Row 28: 7 dc, dec, 7 dc, 3 dec, *dec, 6 dc* 4 before the first chain in the first group of dc. Row 2: 6 inc. (12)
times. (46) Row 2: Dc in the 1st ch, 3 inc, 6 dc, 2 htr, 9 Row 3: *Dc, inc* 6 times. (18)
Row 29: Dec, 24 dc, dec, 18 dc. (44) tr, 2 htr, 3 inc (turning to follow the stitches Row 4: *2 dc, inc* 6 times. (24)
Row 30: Dec, 6 dc, dec, 8 dc, dec, *6 dc, round the end of the ear), 2 htr, 9 tr, 3 htr, 5 Row 5: *3 dc, inc* 6 times. (30)
dec* 3 times. (38) dc. (54) Row 6: 2 dc, inc, *4 dc, inc* 5 times, 2 dc.
Start stuffing from this point, adding more You will have returned to the marker. (36)
stuffing when required. Row 3: 3 inc, 8 htr, (htr tr), 10 tr, (tr, htr), htr, Row 7: *5 dc, inc* 6 times. (42)
Row 31: Dec, 20 dc, dec, 14 dc. (36) *dc, inc* 4 times, htr, (htr, tr), 10 tr, (tr, htr), 8 Row 8: 3 dc, inc *6 dc, inc* 5 times, 3 dc.
Row 32: *4 dc, dec* 6 times. (30) htr, sl st. (64) (48)
Row 33: *3 dc, dec* 6 times. (24) Do not fasten off. Row 9: *7 dc, inc* 6 times. (54)
Row 34: *2 dc, dec* 6 times. (18) Pick up the inner ear and put it together Row 10: 3 dc, *inc, 6 dc* 6 times, 3 dc, 4 inc.
Row 35: *Dc, dec* 6 times. (12) with the external ear, matching the shapes. (62)
Row 36: 6 dec. (6) With the external ear facing, and working Row 11: Inc *18 dc, 3 inc* twice, 18 dc, inc.
Row 37: 3 dec. (3) through the front and back loops together, (70)
Fasten off and leave a long (at least dc around the edge. The stitches may not Row 12: 25 dc, inc, 18 dc, inc, 24 dc, inc. (73)
30cm) tail for shaping the face. With the match up precisely but aim for an even Rows 13–15: 73 dc. (73)
long tail and a tapestry needle, sculpt the distribution of stitches. Row 16: Dec, 24 dc, dec, 18 dc, dec, 24 dc.
features into place by pushing in on the The ears will have a natural curve to them, (70)
eyes until ‘cheeks’ appear, with a reasonably which will add character to your bunny. Rows 17–19: 70 dc. (70)
bulgy section between the ears. Tie off the Position the ears at your preferred height Row 20: Dec, 23 dc, dec, 17 dc, dec, 23 dc.
thread once finished. either side of the stitch marker you placed (67)
If you have opted to embroider the eyes in Row 12, stitch 15 and sew them in place. Row 21: Dec, 22 dc, dec, 16 dc, dec, 22 dc,
rather than use safety eyes, this is a good You may want the ears to sit slightly behind dec. (63)
chance to do so using French knots. the head or in a position that adds more Row 22: Dc, dec, 21 dc, dec, 14 dc, dec, 21
character to your bunny. When stitching dc. (60)
EARS the ears in place, ensure the bottom edges Row 23: Dec, 7 dc, dec, 12 dc, dec, 13 dc,
Ear Internal are slightly bent inwards. You can do this by dec, 12 dc, dec, 7 dc. (55)
Throughout this section, note the different pinching the sides in when attaching them. Row 24: Dec, 53 dc. (54)
types of increases and decreases: dc
increases (inc) and half treble increases (htr
inc). Do the inners first, as you will want to
continue from the body-coloured outers.
With PC, ch 21.
Row 1: (2 dc) in the 2nd ch from the hook, 6
dc, 2 htr, 8 tr, 2 htr, (3 dc) in the last ch, rotate
clockwise to work along the other side: (2
htr) in the next 2 ch, 8 tr 8, 2 htr, 6 dc. (41)
Place stitch marker – this should be just
before the unused ch in the first group
of dc.
Row 2: Dc in the 1st ch, inc in first dc, 6
dc, 2 htr, (htr, tr), 7 tr, 2 htr, (2 dc) in each
of the next 3 dc, turn to follow stitches
around, 2 htr, 7 tr, (tr, htr), 2 htr, 5 dc, inc in
last stitch. (48) You will have returned to
the marker.
Row 3: *Dc, inc* twice, 11 htr, (2 htr), 9 htr,
inc, dc, inc, dc, inc, 9 htr, (2 htr), 9 htr, sl st
into the next dc. Fasten off. (55)
If doing a coloured ear option, make
a round of dc in every stitch around in a
white yarn.
Row 25: 54 dc. (54) the other side of the chain, 4 dc. (15) cent coin sized) pom pom for a tail. Leave a
Row 26: Dec, *7 dc, dec* 5 times, 8 dc. (49) Place marker: this is the heel end of the long strand to sew into place.
Row 27: Dec, 47 dc. (48) foot pad.
Row 28: 47 dc. (48) Row 2: Dc in the turning ch, (2 dc) twice, 4 ASSEMBLY
Row 29: *Dec, 6 dc* 6 times. (42) dc, (dc, htr) 4 times, 5 dc. (22) Position and pin the arms just below the
Row 30: 42 dc. (42) Row 3: Dc, 3 inc, 6 dc, 2 inc, dc, 2 inc head and then sew them firmly into place.
Row 31: Dec, 6 dc, dec, 5 dc, dec, 10 dc, dec, (turning the pad), 7 dc. (29) You can shape the arms into a nice angle
5 dc, dec, 6 dc. (37) As an alternative feature you can add a using a needle felting pin.
Row 32: Dec, 35 dc. (36) row of sl sts in white or another contrasting Turning the bunny upside down, position
Row 33: 36 dc. (36) colour to add more details to your bunny. the back legs with the toes pointing up
Commence stuffing the body and continue Row 4: 2 dc, 2 sl st, break PC, join MC in bl towards the head, roughly aligned with the
adding as required. of the next stitch (move marker to here), sl corners of the belly. If you want a more fixed
Row 34: *Dec, 4 dc* 6 times. (30) st around. (4 paw colour stitches, 29 body leg on your bunny, stitch the side of the legs
Row 35: Dec, 28 dc. (29) colour stitches) to the belly. If you want the legs to dangle,
Row 36: Dec, 7 dc, dec, 7 dc, dec, 7 dc, dec. Row 5: 29 bldc. (29) stitch the end only.
(25) Rows 6–7: 29 dc. (29) Turn the bunny to face away from you
Rows 37–39: 25 dc. (25) Row 8: 8 dc, 6 dec, 9 dc. (23). and position the pom pom in place on the
Row 40: Dec, *3 dc, dec* 4 times, 3 dc. (20) Row 9: 7 dc, 5 dec, 6 dc. (18) point of the bottom. Sew on firmly.
Row 41: 20 dc. (20) Row 10: 7 dc, 2 dec, 7 dc. (16) Using white or pink (or your preferred
Row 42: 2 dec, 12 dc, 2 dec. (16) Stuff the foot firmly and continue adding colour) embroidery thread or wool,
Row 43: *Dc, dec* 5 times. (11) stuffing as required. embroider a short nose over the magic ring
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to join the Rows 11–22: 16 dc. (16) of the head. You could do this by needle
base of the head to the body opening. Row 23: Dc to 13th stitch, flatten the tube felting instead. Consider needle felting a
Complete stuffing the body. Join the body (make sure the toes are pointing up). white patch over the belly. You can also add
to the head. The body has a triangular From the heel side, dc through both shading using markers and eye shadow to
shape, with the flatter side facing the front thicknesses to close off the tube, then dec, add more character to your bunny.
(belly). 2 dc, then dec to one stitch to close the leg
tube by gathering all the remaining stitches SCARF
ARMS (MAKE TWO) across into one dec. Fasten off, leaving a What bunny is complete without a scarf?
The magic ring is the tip of the paw. long tail. With a preferred yarn and a hook to
With MC make a magic ring. match, ch 55, (3 dc) 6 times, 5 dc, 33 htr, 5
Row 1: 6 dc into the ring. (6) TAIL dc, (3 dc) 6 times. Fasten off.
Row 2: 6 inc. (12) Using a large fork, or your preferred pom Roll the ends into spirals and tie in
Row 3: *Dc, inc* 6 times. (18) pom making technique, make a small (20 place. C
Row 4: *Inc, 3 dc* 3 times. (15)
Rows 5–7: 15 dc. (15)
Row 8: 3 dec, 9 dc. (12)
Row 9: Dc, 5 sl st, 6 dc. (12)
Rows 10–16: 12 dc. (12)
Row 17: Dc, 5 sl st, 3 dc, inc, dc. (13)
Commence stuffing the arm and
continue adding as required.
Rows 18–26: 13 dc. (13)
Row 27: 5 sl st, dec, stuff then flatten the
tube of the arm. 2 dc, dec through both
thicknesses. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for
joining to the body.
FEET AND BACK LEGS

(MAKE TWO)
There are two options for colouring on the
pad of the back feet: either with a “Paw
Colour” of pink, blue, purple or whatever
takes your fancy, with a white (CC) border.
Image by Blackwattle Yarn
Or do the whole foot pad in white and

needle felt paw pads on.
Starting with PC:
Row 1: Ch 7, (2 dc) in 2nd ch from hook, 4
dc, (5 dc) in last ch, turn and go back along
PATTERN #8 | EASY
Granny Square
COCOON
JACKET BY MARIA MCBRIDE
Instagram: @moonlightingmakes | Facebook: @moonlightingmakes
YARN
Bendigo Woollen Mills Bloom (8 ply,
200g/400m) in colourway ‘Silver Fox’.
3 balls/600g/1200m required.
EQUIPMENT
• 5mm crochet hook (or size required to
meet gauge)
• darning needle (for weaving in yarn ends
and sewing up sides)
• 2 removable stitch markers
GAUGE
4 rounds of Crochet Granny Square stitch =
10cm x 10cm after blocking
One size fits most
Sample is 90cm x 90cm /35in x 35in plus
collar and sleeve cuffs
NOTES
The jacket is constructed by making a
large crochet Granny Square before
partially sewing up the sides to create
armholes. Crochet Slip Stitch Rib is added
to create the collar and sleeve cuffs.
Make the Granny Square to a larger size
if a bigger, more drapey fit is desired, but
note that more yarn will be required than
indicated above.
This pattern is designed to be used
with self-striping/ombre yarn. The
Granny Square is worked continuously
in one direction (no turning) to prevent
interrupting the yarn’s self-striping pattern.
CROCHET TERMS
PATTERN
Part One – The Granny Square
Foundation Ring – Using 5mm hook, ch 4.
Join with sl st to create a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 2 tr, ch 2, *3 tr,
ch 2* three times. Join in 2nd ch of first tr. Sl
st across the next 2 tr and into the ch 2 sp. (4
x 3 tr clusters)
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), (2 tr, ch 2, 3
tr, ch 1) in ch 2 sp. (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr, ch 1) in each
remaining ch 2 sp. Join to 3rd beginning
chain. Sl st across the next 2 tr and into the
ch 2 sp. (8 x 3 tr clusters)
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), (2 tr, ch 2, 3
tr) in ch 2 sp. In each ch 1 sp work (3 tr, ch 1).
In each ch 2 sp work (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr, ch 1) to
make a corner. Join to 3rd beginning chain.
Image by Maria McBride
Sl st across the next 2 tr and into the ch 2 sp. Part 3 – Collar and Sleeve Cuffs in FINISHING
(12 x 3 tc clusters) Crochet Slip Stitch Rib Weave in all the ends using a darning
Repeat Round 3 for total 40 rounds or Collar Foundation Row: Using 6 mm hook, needle before blocking the piece to the
until piece is approximately 80cm x 80cm attach yarn to any ch 1 sp on the open long measurements.
square. Fasten off. side. Ch 13, turn. You may need to aggressively block the
Before continuing, block the Granny Row 1: Working in bl, sl st in 2nd ch from collar and sleeve cuffs to the match the
Square to 90cm x 90cm square. Blocking loop, place a marker on this first sl st, then sl Granny Square tension. C
softens the tension of the square to create a st in each remaining ch. Place a marker on
softer drape to the garment. this last sl st. Sl st into the next 2 tr. turn. (12
If you prefer not to block, repeat Round sl st on chain, 2 sl st on body)
3 until the Granny Square is approximately Row 2: Sl st in bl of first marked sl st and
90cm x 90cm /35in x 35in square. each sl st including the last marked sl st. Ch
Part 2 – Jacket Construction 1, Turn. (12 sl st)
Step 1: Fold the Granny Square in half with Row 3: Sl st in 2nd ch from loop, place a
the wrong side facing out, making sure the marker on this first sl st, then sl st in each
3 tr clusters and ch 2 sps are aligned. The remaining ch. Place a marker on this last sl
square will now be a rectangle. The long st. Sl st into the next ch 1 sp and tr, turn. (12 sl
sides will form the collar. Armholes will be st on rib, 2 on body)
formed in the short sides. Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Step 2: Attach yarn into one of the corners Repeat Rows 2 to 4 until you have worked
to join the 2 x ch 2 sps touching each other. crochet Slip Stitch Rib all around the long
Using a 5mm hook and working along the open side of the piece and you meet the
short side of the rectangle and through first row of rib.
both sides of the fabric, sl st through the Last Joining Row: Working in the bl of
bl of each 3 tr cluster and each ch 1 sp. both the first and last rows of the Slip Stitch
Continue to sl st for 10 tr clusters or until Rib, repeat Row 1, fasten off.
the short side is sewn closed approximately Sleeve Cuffs (repeat for both sides)
halfway. If preferred, use a darning needle Using 6mm hook, attach yarn to any ch 1 sp
to sew up the sides, instead of using sl st. on an open short side. Repeat the above
Fasten off. instructions as written for the Collar Rib,
Step 3: Repeat Step 2 for the other short but ch 7 for the Foundation Row and work
side of the piece. Fasten off. 6 sl st on the ribbing.
MARIA MCBRIDE
Instagram:@moonlightingmakes
Facebook:@moonlightingmakes
I was contacted by a new every few rows so I asked

student for help as her what hook size she was using.
crochet scarf looked oddly She said she didn’t know but
wavy and she couldn’t work she only had one hook in her
out why. After a bit of back case. Yet when we looked
and forth, I asked her to bring in the case we found three
it to our next craft group hooks of different sizes! Oops
meeting for us to look at. … Mystery solved! Lesson
OW The tension seemed to vary learned: check your hook size!
GETTING TO KN
THE DESIGNER
PATTERN #9 | BEGINNER
Summer Flower
WREATH ELIZABETH CASTLE
Instagram: @castlehandmade | Facebook: @castlehandmade | Website: www.castlehandmade.com.au
Image A
YARN
DMC Happy Cotton (20g, 43m/47yds, light dk
weight, equivalent to an Australian 8 ply)
Colour 1: 10g, sunflower centre, brown (777)
Colour 2: 20g, sunflower petals, yellow (794)
Colour 3: 10g, small flowers, deep red (791)
Colour 4: 10g, leaves, dark green (780)
Colour 5: 10g, leaves, light green (752)
EQUIPMENT
• darning needle
• scissors
• hot glue gun and glue sticks
• 15cm diameter natural vine wreath
NOTES
Image B The magic ring can be replaced by a starting
chain ring (chain 4, sl st into the 1st chain).
The sunflowers and small flowers are worked
in the round.
The leaves are worked by making stitches on
both side of the foundation chain.
CROCHET TERMS
See the crochet abbreviation page. All terms
are Australian/ UK.
TUTORIAL
Picot 3: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
PATTERN
Sunflowers
Make 2.
Round 1: Using Colour 1, make a magic ring, 6
dc into ring. (6 dc)
Round 2: 2 dc in each st around. (12 dc)
Image C Round 3: *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st* repeat
around. Sl st into next st. Fasten off. (18 dc)
Round 4: Using Colour 2, attach yarn to any tr, ch 1, sl st) into next st* 3 times. Fasten off. work into the loops on the opposite side of
dc using a sl st. *Into the same st (ch 3, tr, (3 petals) (Image B) the foundation chain.
dtr, picot 3, dtr, tr, ch 3, sl st). Sl st in each of Leaves Htr in next st, tr in next st, 1 dtr in next
the next 2 sts* 9 times. Fasten off. (9 petals) Make 6 in Colour 4 and 3 in Colour 5. 5 sts, 1 tr in next 2 sts, sl st into starting ch.
(Image A) Round 1: Ch 11, tr in 2nd ch from hook. Fasten off. (Image C)
Images by Elizabeth Castle
Small Flowers Working along the sts of the foundation

Make 3. chain, tr in next st, 1 dtr in next 5 sts, tr in FINISHING
Round 1: Using Colour 3, make a magic next st, htr in next st. (Dc, ch 1, dc) in last st. Weave in all ends using a darning needle.
ring, 6 dc into ring. (6 dc) Twist your work around, keeping the right Arrange the leaves and flowers on the vine
Round 2: *(Sl st, ch 1, tr, dtr) into next st, (dtr, side facing. (Do not flip over.) You can now wreath and attach with hot glue. C
PATTERN #10 | EASY
Bobble
BRILLIANCE BY EMMA WILKINSON
Bobble Brilliance is an asymmetrical shawl that provides a

great introduction to increases, bobbles and simple colour
work. The initial rows increase on every second row, and once
the bobbles appear, you work 8 rows (and increase by 4 extra
stitches) between the bobble rows.
Website: EmmaWilkinsonDesigns.com | Instagram: @Emma_Wilkinson_Designs

Facebook: facebook.com/EmmaWilkinsonDesigns
YARN
Main colour (MC): Scheepjes Ombre
Whirl 60% cotton/40% acrylic, (1000m/
200g. Eqiuvalent to Australian 4 ply): 1 ball
in Daffodil Dolally
Contrast Colour (CC): Scheepjes
Whirlette 60% cotton/40% acrylic:
(455m/100g. Equivalent to Australian 4 ply):
1 ball in Ice
A budget friendlier version is to work
MC from the centre and create CC from
outside of the whirl.
EQUIPMENT
• darning needle
• stitch marker
GAUGE
11 rows x 23 sts = 10 cm/4in
Length: 157cm
Width at widest row: 45cm
PATTERN NOTES
• Chains are not counted as stitches. The
first treble will be worked into same
stitch as the turning chain. This creates a
pleasing ripple in the edge.
• Do not cut MC when starting a bobble
row. Secure last MC st with stitch marker.
CC will need to be cut and woven in after
each bobble row.
• Bobble rows are worked in the same
direction as previous row, which means
you do not turn your work, and can pick
up MC at the start of the next row without
cutting the yarn.
CROCHET TERMS
BOBBLE TUTORIAL
Bobble (BB)
Also known as a 5 tr cluster. Method: *yo,
insert hook into the next st, yo, pull up a
loop, yo, pull through 2 loops* 5 times in
same st, yo, pull through 6 loops on hook.
The bobbles are worked on the wrong
side, as they pop out the back. The
increase rows are on the right side (RS).
The rows without increases and bobbles
are worked on the wrong side (WS).
In this pattern the bobble row is worked
in the same direction as the previous row,
so don’t turn your work.
Image by Emma Wilkinson
PATTERN
Row 1: With MC, ch 6, tr in 4th ch from
hook, tr in each remaining ch, turn. (3 tr)
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count as tr) 2 tr in
first st, tr in each tr across, turn. (4 tr).
Row 3: Ch 3, tr into same st and each st
across. (4 tr)
Rows 4–81: Repeat rows 2 and 3.
Note that there is an increase in Row 2,
meaning every second row increases by 1.
Do not turn on final row. Secure the last st
with a stitch marker. (43 tr)
Row 82: Join CC, *dc in next 3 sts, BB in
next st* across, dc in last 3 sts, turn. (33 dc,
10 BB) Fasten off CC.
Row 83: Pick up MC, ch 3, 2 tr in first st, tr in
each tr across, turn. (45 tr)
Row 84: Ch 3, tr into same st and each st
across. (45 tr)
Rows 85–90: Repeat rows 83 and 84.
(47 tr)
Row 91: Join CC, *dc in next 3 sts, BB in
next st* across, dc in last 3 sts, turn. (36 dc,
11 BB)
Repeat rows 83–91, 11 times (67 dc, 21
BB) or repeat until the desired length
is reached.
FINISHING
Fasten off and weave in the ends. Block
if desired. C
EMMA WILKINSON
Website: EmmaWilkinsonDesigns.com
Instagram: @Emma_Wilkinson_Designs
Facebook: EmmaWilkinsonDesigns
When I first started designing, people asked for some at

I was also making finished Easter and I was furiously
crochet items to sell. The crocheting away. I was also
big crochet trend at that pregnant with my fourth son
time wasthe mermaid tail at the time. I got everyone’s
blankets. Somebody shared tail to them on time except
one of mine in a local mum’s the last one. I took it with me
group on Facebook and I to the hospital for my last
was inundated with orders. checkup appointment, and
I was very organised and finished it when they said I
only took on what I could for wouldn’t be going home. My
OW
GETTING TO KN the approaching Christmas son was born, and the last
THE DESIGNER
season, and had to turn customer didn’t mind getting
people away. However, some her tail a few days later!
Crochet
FITNESS
BY LYNDA TOMKINS
Yes, I believe there is such a thing. I don’t sore, turning the enjoyable and blissful of coffee in the kitchen. Try to establish
mean the ‘get up and go for a run every art of crocheting into a period of agony. a daily routine for doing them. Or, at the
morning to get the heart pumping as fast Similarly, sitting for extended periods of very least, whenever you take a break from
as you can’ type of thing. What I mean is time can cause the muscles in your back to crochet, just spend a couple of minutes
keeping those parts of your body that are tense up. It is, therefore, important to build doing these stretches to relieve tension,
integral to crochet (eg your hands) flexible into your daily routine some stretches and cramps and strain.
and toned for pain free crochet. exercises for those frequently used muscles Let’s start with the hands. These are a
Crocheting involves a lot of repetitive – becoming crochet fit. series of stretches for the fingers, thumb
action. This can cause the muscles in your Many of them can be done while lying and wrist. They can be done sitting or
hands and wrists to cramp up and become in bed, taking a shower, or preparing a cup standing. I usually try to do each of these
2. Dancing thumbs
3. Spider Fingers
before I begin a crochet session and when hand exercises, I try to do five repeats of around the house or garden will suffice. And
I finish. For each exercise do five repeats at each stretch. stay hydrated.
a time. 1. Interlink your fingers in front of you and I am not a qualified medical professional,
1. Wrist circles – Turn your hands into stretch your arms out straight in front. but rather, I’m sharing what I have learned
fists with your thumbs resting on top Turn your palms to face away from you. over my years of crocheting. If you have any
of your knuckles and move your fist Keep your shoulders back and push your medical conditions or doing any of these
in circles - firstly clockwise and then palms away. Hold for five seconds. exercises causes pain, consult your doctor.
counterclockwise. 2. Interlink your fingers behind you and lift Crocheting is such an enjoyable craft. It is
2. Dancing thumbs – turn your hands into your arms up towards the ceiling. Hold for easy to get so absorbed in it that you don’t
fists with your thumbs raised up toward five seconds. notice how much time has passed until
the ceiling and move your thumbs 3. Lift one arm up and straight over your you get stiff and begin to feel sore. Set an
in circles – firstly clockwise and then head. Bend it at the elbow and try to alarm on your phone for 45 or 50 minutes
counterclockwise. touch your opposite shoulder blade, to remind you to get up and move, do a few
3. Spider fingers – lay your hands out flat going behind your head. Don’t bend your stretches and refill your glass of water. Have
with palms facing the floor, and spread head forward. Hold for five seconds. a go now and keep crochet fit!
your fingers out as wide as they can go. Moving to the neck. These can be done Lynda Tomkins is the owner and
Turn your hands towards each other and sitting or standing – either way stand or sit manager of Crochet Australia, supplying
press your hand and fingers together as up nice and straight and as tall as you can, all things crochet to the public – including
hard as you can. Slowly separate your and do five repeats of each stretch. regular online workshops and lessons. You
palms and fingers while keeping your 1. Looking to the front, bend your head can see these exercises on the Crochet
fingertips touching, still with your fingers firstly to the right moving your ear Australia YouTube channel.
spread as wide as you can. Slowly roll your towards your shoulder – without lifting
fingers back down together and then your shoulder up. Hold for five seconds.
rejoin your palms. Then try the left side.
4. Thumb drag – lay your hands out flat with 2. Looking to the front, bend your head
palms facing up, and spread your fingers forward, moving your chin towards your
out as wide as they can go. Without chest. Hold for five seconds. Then lift your
bending your fingers, stretch your thumbs head back up and tilt it backwards.
across to touch the tip of your little finger. 3. Finally move your head in circles,
Slowly roll your thumb down your little beginning with tilting it towards one
finger and palm, towards your wrist, then shoulder, then towards your chin,
Images by Lynda Tomkins
stretch the thumb back out. the other shoulder, then towards
Next the arms and shoulders. You will the back. Do this clockwise, then
need to be standing to do these. I often counterclockwise.
3. Spider Fingers
do these after a crochet session to ease Lastly, go for a short walk after periods
my shoulder muscles, and, as with the of sitting. It doesn’t have to be far – a lap
PATTERNS #12 | EASY
Cabana
CLUTCH BY KATE BRIDGE
With the weather warming up I wanted to design something

that reminded me of summer! For warm nights out on the
town or brunch under the sun, the Cabana Clutch is the
perfect companion: spacious enough for all the essentials but
small enough to throw under your arm. Pairs perfectly with
a flowy dress or skirt and a cocktail or two!
Instagram: katieree_ | Facebook: Katieree | Tik Tok: katieree_ | YouTube: Katieree
YARN Row 2: Dc in next 29 sts, inc in next 3 sts, dc sts, inc* twice, dc in next 34 sts. Ch 1, turn.
25 of Flinders 8 ply 100% cotton in colour in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (64) (94)
‘Ochre’ Change to Ochre yarn Row 13: Dc in next 34 sts, inc, *dc in next 11
25 each of Brighton 8 ply cotton blend in Row 3: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next st* sts, inc* twice, dc in next 35 sts. Ch 1, turn.
colours: 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (67) (97)
• ‘Mustard’ Change to Natural yarn Row 14: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next
• ‘Natural’ Row 4: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 2 12 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn.
• ‘Cream’ sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (70) (100)
Continue changing colours in pattern Row 15: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next
EQUIPMENT above after each row. 13 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn.
• 4mm crochet hook Row 5: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 3 (103)
• one snap fastener sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (73) Row 16: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next
• darning needle Row 6: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 4 14 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn.
• scissors sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (76) (106)
Row 7: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 5 Row 17: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next
CROCHET TERMS sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (79) 15 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn.
See the crochet abbreviation page. All Row 8: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 6 (109)
terms are Australian/UK. sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (82) Row 18: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 16
Row 9: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 7 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (112)
PATTERN sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (85) Row 19: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 17
Start with Mustard yarn Row 10: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 8 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (115)
Row 1: Ch 31, sk first st, dc in next 29 sts, (3 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (88) Row 20: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 18
dc) in next st. Working along other side of Row 11: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 9 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (118)
ch sts, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (61) sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (91) Row 21: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in next 19
Change to Cream yarn Row 12: Dc in next 34 sts, inc, *dc in next 10 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch 1, turn. (121)
Image by Kate Polizzi
Row 22: Dc in next 29 sts, *inc, dc in
next 20 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts.
Ch 1, turn. (124)
next 21 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts. Ch
1, turn. (127)
next 20 sts* 3 times, dc in next 29 sts.
Ch 1, turn. (130)
Row 25: Dc in every st until end of row.
(133)
Fasten off, sew in ends.
FRONT PANEL
Start with Mustard yarn and change yarn
colour after each row. Join yarn in the Front Panel Front Panel Row 32
corner of straight edge (ws facing you).
Row 1: Dc along straight edge, working
into the end of each row. Ch 1, turn. (50)
Rows 2-31: Dc in every stitch. Ch 1,
turn. (50)
Row 32: Dc in every st. Fasten off, sew
in ends. (50)
If blocking is required, do this prior
to seaming.
SEAMING
WS facing out, fold front panel up and
seam along sides leaving opening
along top.
Turn RS out, sew in any remaining ends
and attach snap fasteners as pictured. C Front Panel Row 1 Seaming
KATE BRIDGE
Instagram: katieree_ | Facebook: Katieree
Tik Tok: katieree_ | YouTube: Katieree
Hi, I’m Kate and I’m a size live my dream life getting paid
inclusive crochet pattern to play with yarn all day long!
designer from Melbourne. I When I’m not designing
am inspired by all things 70’s you’ll find me hanging out with
and absolutely love designing my dogs, going on picnics and
garment patterns! running my business MAYKR or
A few months ago I was filming YouTube videos!
offered my dream job designing My aim is to inspire the
crochet and knit patterns for younger generation to pick up
Lincraft (an Aussie craft store), some yarn and a crochet hook
and after 8 years working as a or some knitting needles and
OW
GETTING TO KN flight attendant I decided it was to help keep these amazing
THE DESIGN R
E time to hang up my wings and arts alive!
PATTERN #12 | EASY
Coast Crochet
BLANKIE BY KATHY JARVIS
Website: www.caloryarns.com.au | Instagram: @calor_yarns
YARN
Calor Yarns Coast (117m, 50g, 55%
Lambswool/45% Cotton)
4 balls Main Colour (M) and 1 ball Contrast
Colour (C)
EQUIPMENT
• darning needle
TENSION/GAUGE
4.5 clusters x 8 rows = 10 cm
Width 55cm
Length 70cm
CROCHET TERMS
Cluster: (Dc, ch 2, 2 tr) into indicated stitch.
BLANKET
Using 5mm hook and M, ch 70.
Foundation row: Cluster into 4th ch from
hook, *skip 2 ch, cluster into next ch* to 3rd
last ch, skip 2 ch, dc in last ch, 3 ch, turn.
Row 1: *Cluster into next ch 2 sp* to last ch
sp. Dc into last ch sp, ch 3, turn.
Rows 2–56: Rep Row 1 or until all of M has
been used.
Do not fasten off.
BORDER
Round 1: Attach C, ch 3, turn. Work a
cluster in every ch 3 sp, cluster in corner
ch 3 sp, working along lower edge, cluster
in every ch 2 sp, cluster in corner ch made
at beginning. Working along second side
edge, work a cluster in every ch 3 sp to top
corner, dc in corner ch 3 sp, turn.
Round 2: Cluster in each ch 2 space around
all four sides (including top edge), dc in the
next ch 2 sp, ch 1, turn.
Round 3: Repeat Round 2, omitting ch 1,
turn at end of round.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Do not press. Sew in all ends neatly. Block
blanket to size and shape. C
Image by Kathy Jarvis
PATTERN #13 | INTERMEDIATE
Glittering
PETALS BY LYNDA TOMKINS
Website: www.crochetaustralia.com.au
YARN NOTES CROCHET TERMS
#20 Metallic or cotton thread Tip: When working with metallic thread, See the crochet abbreviation page. All
it is important to keep your stitches terms are Australian/ UK.
EQUIPMENT tight. If you feel your stitches look loose,
• 1.25mm crochet hook consider going down to a 1mm hook. You PATTERN
• one pair earring hoops 40mm and fastenings also need to have a very good light to see Begin with 5 ch and join with a sl st to form
• needle to sew in the ends each stitch, particularly for round 2, as a ring.
Images by Lynda Tomkins
the glistening metallic makes the stitches Round 1: Ch 1, 12 dc into the ring, join with a
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS hard to see – a magnifying glass can be sl st to the top of the first dc. (12 dc)
Before attaching the earring hoop your helpful for this round. Round 2: Ch 1, dc in same st as the slip
flower should measure 3.5cm across the Ch 1 at the beginning of each round does stitch. *Ch 5, sk 1 st and dc into the next
middle from ch 1 space to ch 1 space. not count as a stitch. stitch* 5 times. Ch 5 and sl st to the top of
the first dc. (6 ch 5 spaces)
Round 3: Sl st into the first ch 5 space. Ch 1,
*(dc, htr, tr, ch 2, tr, htr, dc) into the next ch 5
space* 6 times. (6 petals formed).
Round 4: Turn so the back is facing you.
Take your hook out of the loop and insert
it in the back loops of the stitches just
worked. Reinsert your hook through the
loop and pull the loop through the stitches
(fig.1). Sl st across the back of the stitches
of the last petal you made until you sl st
around the middle two stitches of the petal
(this will be two strands of the 2 tr stitches,
fig. 2). *Ch 4, sl st into around the middle
two stitches of the next petal* 5 times. Ch 4,
Fig 2
sl st to the beginning sl st. (6 ch 4 spaces)
Round 5: Turn so the front is now facing
you. Sl st into the last ch 4 space just made.
*(Htr, 2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr, htr) into the ch 4 space, sl
Fig 1
st through the ch 2 space in the petal from
round 3* 6 times, sl st to the top of the first
htr. (6 ch 1 spaces) the ch 1 space and around the ring. *15 dc
Round 6: Sl st in the next 2 tr and into the around the ring, dc into the next ch 1 space
ch 1 space. Place the earring hoop on top and around the ring* 6 times. You may
with the top of the fastening to the right need to pull the stitches closer together
of the loop on your hook. Remove the as you work this round to ensure they all fit
crochet hook, bring it to the front of the around the hoop.
hoop and reinsert your hook into the loop.
Your yarn should still be behind the earring FINISHING
Fig 3
hoop, (fig. 3). Ch 1 around the ring, dc into Fasten off and sew in ends. C
LYNDA TOMKINS
Website: www.www.crochetaustralia.com.au
Lynda is the owner and manager of yarn became her focus. Lynda has
Crochet Australia – an online store completed her Master of Advanced
based in the Sunshine Coast Qld, Crochet Stitches and Techniques with
dedicated to all things crochet. the Crochet Guild of America and is
Lynda gets to play with yarn and a Certified Crochet teacher with the
crochet tools every day. She also Craft Yarn Council of America. In her
teaches crochet and runs regular previous career, Lynda also completed
crochet workshops – both in store several adult learning courses, which
and online. have been valuable in teaching
Lynda learned to crochet from her crochet to adults.
mother when she was a youngster Lynda has a passion for passing on
growing up in Central Queensland. the skill of crochet to ensure this skill
It remained a hobby for her as she never dies. As the treasurer of the
OW pursued a career in accounting until Crochet Guild Australia she is able
GETTING TO KN 2014 when she decided a change to contribute to the development of
THE DESIGNER was needed and crocheting and crochet all over the country.
PATTERN #14 | EASY
Pepe
LEG WARMERS BY SHARYN BROCK
Website: www.sharynbrock.com | Email: sharyn@sharynbrock.com | Instagram: @sharynbrockdesigns

Facebook: @sharynbrock | Pinterest: @sharynbrock | Ravelry: @sharyn-brock-designs

YARN
Main – Hedgehog Fibres Merino Aran
100g/166m – Insomnia
Ribbing – Hedgehog Fibres Merino Aran
100g/166m - Spell
EQUIPMENT
• darning needle
CROCHET TERMS
TUTORIAL
Extended double crochet (edc): Insert
hook in stitch, *yarn over, draw through 1
loop* twice. Yarn over, draw through 2 loops.
NOTES:
• This pattern is worked in Rows and
Rounds. Read the pattern thoroughly
before starting.
• Divide the main colour into 2x50g balls,
one for each leg warmer. If you forget to
do this before starting, weigh your ball
intermittently whilst working the main body.
PATTERN – MAKE 2
Lower Ribbing
Use contrast colour.
Row 1: Ch 19, starting with 3rd ch from
hook, htr in each chain to end, turn. (17 htr)
Rows 2–20 (19 rows): Ch 2 (does not count
as a stitch), work htr in bl of each st. (17 htr)
Join Row 20 to Row 1 using sl sts. Fasten off.
Leg
Change to main colour
Round 1: Join anywhere on the top or
bottom edge with sl st, work 20 dc around
edge (about halfway around), ch 32, join
with sl st to first dc. (52 sts)
Note: From this point onward, work
continuously in the round until you have
used up 50g.

Image by Sharyn Brock

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch),
edc in first dc, *ch 1, skip 1 st, edc in next st,
repeat from * around (do not join) (52 stitch
count for remainder of main colour)
Round 3: (Edc, ch 1) into each ch 1 sp, until
50g yarn used. (It does not matter where
you finish).
Upper Ribbing
Change to contrast colour.
Round 4: *Dc in ch 1 gap, dc in next st,
repeat from * around. Join with sl st to
first dc.
The remainder of the leg warmer is worked
in rows.
hook, htr in each chain to end, skip 1 st on
leg edge, sl st in next 2 sts on leg edge, turn.
Row 2: Htr in bl of each st to end, turn.
(14 htr)
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), htr
in bl of each st to end, skip 1 st on leg edge,
sl st in next 2 sts on leg edge, turn. (14 htr)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around the leg
edge until you have gone around the edge
completely. Join with sl st to first st, then
slip stitch to join the seam of the first and
last rows.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. C
SHARYN BROCK
Website: www.sharynbrock.com | Email: sharyn@sharynbrock.com
Instagram: @sharynbrockdesigns | Facebook: @sharynbrock
Pinterest: @sharynbrock | Ravelry: @sharyn-brock-designs
A few years ago now, at night I would try to do a little bit

Christmas time, I had family more. Come Christmas Eve and
from the UK staying as well as I had only one sock finished, so
hosting Christmas lunch. As I wrapped the sole sock with a
part of the family Kris Kringle I note promising the other sock
was to gift to my brother-in-law. before returning home. The
I thought I would knit him a pair look on his face unwrapping his
of socks. Although having him gift and the moment when he
and his family staying meant realised there was only one sock
lots of fun and hijinks, every was priceless.
OW
GETTING TO KN
THE DESIGNER

PATTERN #15 | EASY
Summer
PONCHO BY SUSIE GREGORY
This lovely spring/summer weight poncho is worked in an open crochet

mesh stitch and is perfect to throw over any outfit.
Knitted in “Laines Du Nord” Lino Cotton, it is a soft and slightly textural
yarn made from 80% Linen and 20% Pima Cotton.
It is a simple construction of two rectangular pieces that are simply
seamed along the shoulders, giving you a free flowing, drapey, yet textural
fashion garment. You will need both a 4mm and 5mm hook for this
garment. It is a suitable project for crocheters of most skill levels.
Website: www.knitpicking.com.au | Instagram: @knit.picking | Facebook: knitpicking

YARN
“Laines Du Nord” Soft Lino (80% linen, 20%
cotton. 50g, 135m, 148y, Australian 8 ply
equivalent), 8 balls colour Khaki shade 11
EQUIPMENT
• darning needle
GAUGE
22 sts = 10cm/4in in width
One size fits most. This pattern is easily
adjustable by adding or subtracting rows.
Width across back: 112cm
Length: 67cm
NOTE
This garment has been worked on a bigger
hook and at a looser tension than normally
recommended.
CROCHET TERMS
PONCHO (MAKE 2 PIECES)

Use 4mm hook.
hook, dc in each ch to end, turn. (133 dc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 dc in same st and each st to
end, turn.
Change to 5mm hook
Row 3: Ch 1, bldc in 1st dc, *ch 3, sk 3 dc,
bldc in next dc* to end of row except for the
turning ch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, bldc in 1st dc, *ch 3, sk 3 ch,
bldc in next dc* to end of row except for the
turning ch, turn.
Repeat Row 4 until work measures 110cm.
Change to 4mm hook.
Next Row: Repeat Row 4, thus
completing pattern.
Next Row: Ch 1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Next Row: Ch 1, dc in each st to end.
Do not break off yarn.

Images by Susie Gregory
First Side Edging
Using 5mm hook, rotate work to work along
first side edge.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, dc in first st, work 1 dc in
side edge of each dc row, work in dc evenly
along side edge of pattern rows (Rows 3 –4
and onward), taking care to keep work flat,
work 1 dc in side edge of each of last 2 dc
rows, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 dc in same st and each st
to end.
Fasten off.
Second Side Edge
Using 5mm hook, attach yarn with a sl st in
first st of remaining side edge.
Make Rows 1 and 2 as per First Side Edging.
FINISHING
Mark the centre on one side edge of the
two pieces. Tie a coloured thread or place
two stitch markers 15cm either side of
the centre to mark a 30cm neck opening.
Using mattress st, join same side edges
together for 15cm to form the shoulder
seams, leaving the remaining rows from the
beginning and end of the work free for arm
openings. Sew in ends.
Do not press. C
SUSIE GREGORY
Website: www.knitpicking.com.au | Instagram: @knit.picking
Facebook: knitpicking
Hi, I’m Susie Gregory and welcome new yarns and colours and creating
to Knitpicking! Knitpicking is a new projects for you to enjoy. Over
space I love, where I share beautiful the years, I have worked with some
yarns, knitting and crochet of Australia’s most highly regarded
patterns and accessories. Being the yarn and knitwear companies to
creative force behind Knitpicking, produce quality knitting and crochet
I found that after spending so patterns and designs. My knowledge
many years of my childhood in my and experience in the industry made
mother’s craft and yarn stores, ‘The creating my own brand the next
Earthworks’, ‘Sheepish’ and ‘Wild logical step and thus, Knitpicking
Yarns’, that it was only natural that I was born.
progress into knitwear and crochet I encourage you to take your time
design and pattern writing and so to explore my handpicked range,
OW the tradition continues! featuring Calor yarns and patterns
GETTING TO KN After studying Textile Design at and my own original Knitpicking
THE DESIGNER R.M.I.T during the 80s – yes the designs and patterns. You never
80s – I graduated into being a fully know what treasures you may find!
fledged knitwear designer and I
haven’t regretted this choice for a Enjoy!
minute! I continue to love handling Susie

PATTERN #16 | EASY
Tree of Life
WALL HANGING BY AMY ZIEHN
Combining a love of colourwork and texture stitches led to the

creation of this wall hanging. Bobble stitches create an amazing
texture and are fabulous used in any graph design.
The tree of life comes from a love of nature and celebrating life.
Instagram: @craftybritabroad

67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
82 82
81 81
80 80
79 79
78 78
77 77
76 76
75 75
74 74
73 73
72 72
71 71
70 70
69 69
68 68
67 67
66 66
65 65
64 64
63 63
62 62
61 61
60 60
59 59
58 58
57 57
56 56
55 55
54 54
53 53
52 52
51 51
50 50
49 49
48 48
47 47
46 46
45 45
44 44
43 43
42 42
41 41
40 40
39 39
38 38
37 37
36 36
35 35
34 34
33 33
32 32
31 31
30 30
29 29
28 28
27 27
26 26
25 25
24 24
23 23
22 22
21 21
20 20
19 19
18 18
17 17
16 16
15 15
14 14
13 13
12 12
11 11
10 10
9 9
8 8
7 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Tree Of Life Wall Hanging Taupe Colour A Green Colour B

YARN
Fiddlesticks Superb Big (100g, 80m, bulky
weight) 11 balls.
Colour A: Taupe, 5 balls
Colour B: Green, 5 balls
Optional: Red, 1 ball
EQUIPMENT
• darning needle
• a wooden dowel or a tree branch
approximately 100cm long and
1 -15mm thick
• measuring tape
• pom pom maker (optional)
66cm wide by 73.5cm long
NOTES
Colour changes occur on the last yarn over
of the dc st before the colour changes in the
pattern or graph.
For Rows 13 – 70, the pattern alternates dc
rows with (dc, bobble) rows.
The colour to use in the pattern is indicated
with A or B.
CROCHET TERMS
See the crochet abbreviation page. All terms
are Australian/UK.
TUTORIAL
Bobble (BB)
Also known as a 5 tr cluster. Method: *yo, insert
hook into the next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull
through 2 loops* 5 times in same st, yo, pull
through 6 loops on hook.
PATTERN
Row 1: With A, ch 68. Starting with the 2nd ch,
dc in the back bump of each ch, turn. (67 dc)
Rows 2 –12: Ch 1, (does not count as a stitch),
dc in each dc, turn. (67 dc)
Colourwork begins. Note the colour changes
mid-row indicated by A for Colour A and B for
Colour B.
Row 13: Ch 1, dc A in first 29 sts, dc B in next 9
sts, dc A in last 29 sts, turn. (67 dc)
Row 14: Ch 1, dc A in first 29 sts, dc B, (BB, dc) 4
times in B, dc A in last 29 sts, turn. (63 dc, 4 BB)
Rows 15 –18: Repeat rows 13 –14.
Row 20: Ch 1, dc A in first 13 sts, dc B, (BB, dc) 20
times in B, dc A in last 13 sts, turn. (47 dc, 20 BB)
Rows 21 –27: Repeat rows 19 –20.

Row 28: Ch 1, dc A in first 17 sts, dc B, (BB, Row 58: Ch 1, dc A in first 27 sts, dc B, (BB, Fold each piece four times. Starting in the
dc) 16 times in B, dc A in last 17 sts, turn. (51 dc) 6 times in B, dc A in last 27 sts, turn. (61 bottom right corner, attach the tassel to
dc, 16 BB) dc, 6 BB) the bottom of the first st. Push the folded
Rows 29–32: Repeat rows 27 and 28. Rows 59 –64: Repeat rows 57 and 58. yarn through from the back of the work
Row 33: Ch 1, dc A in first 19 sts, dc B in next Row 65: Ch 1, dc A in first 31 sts, dc B in next to create a loop, pull the yarn strands up
29 sts, dc A in last 19 sts, turn. (67 dc) 5 sts, dc A in last 31 sts, turn. (67 dc) through the loop created and pull tight to
Row 34: Ch 1, dc A in first 19 sts, dc B, (BB, Row 66: Ch 1, dc A in first 31 sts, dc B, (BB, dc) create the knot.
dc) 14 times in B, dc A in last 19 sts, turn. (53 twice in B, dc A in last 31 sts, turn. (65 dc, 2 BB) Skip the next stitch and add a tassel to
dc, 14 BB) Colourwork finished. Fasten off yarn B. the 3rd stitch. Skip two stitches and attach
Rows 35-40: Repeat rows 33 –34. Rows 67–70: Repeat rows 65 and 66. a tassel to every 3rd stitch until there are 4
Row 41: Ch 1, dc A in first 21 sts, dc B in next Rows 71–82: Repeat row 2. stitches remaining. Add a tassel to the 3rd st
25 sts, dc A in last 21 sts, turn. (67 dc) from the end and the last st.
Row 42: Ch 1, dc A in first 21 sts, dc B, (BB, FINISHING Steam block the tassels to make them
dc) 12 times in B, dc A in last 21 sts, turn. (55 Fasten off, leaving about a metre long straight and then, using a measuring tape, cut
dc, 12 BB) length of yarn. Steam block the work prior the yarn so the tassels are all the same length.
Rows 43–48: Repeat rows 41 and 42. to attaching it to the wood and weave in Pom poms
Row 49: Ch 1, dc A in first 25 sts, dc B in the ends. Make three red and two green pom
next 17 sts, dc A in last 25 sts, turn. (67 dc) Use a darning needle to loop your yarn poms. The samples were made using an
Row 50: Ch 1, dc A in first 25 sts, dc B, (BB, over the wood and back through the top of 85mm pom pom maker. Fold a 60cm piece
dc) 8 times in B, dc A in last 25 sts, turn. (59 each dc, working from back to front each of each coloured yarn in half and thread
dc, 8 BB) time. the pom poms on to the yarn. Tie the yarn
Rows 51–56: Repeat rows 49 and 50. Tassels ends together to create a loop. The pom
Row 57: Ch 1, dc A in first 27 sts, dc B in next The fringe at the bottom is roughly poms can be added to the wood to create a
13 sts, dc A in last 27 sts, turn. (67 dc) 20cm long. Cut 24 50cm lengths of yarn A. Christmas theme for your wall hanging. C

What is a
CAL?
EMMA WILKINSON
Website: EmmaWilkinsonDesigns.com | Instagram: @Emma_Wilkinson_Designs | Facebook: EmmaWilkinsonDesigns
HOMESPUN Knitting | 119

There are a lot of acronyms in crochet – so you have to take an extra gamble, One example of a local CAL is the Unity
and one you’ll see fairly regularly is CAL, which can add another dimension of blanket, which started back in February
CAL photos by Emma Wilkinson | Smaller photos by Getty Images
which stands for ‘crochet along’ You can fun! CALs can be blankets, clothing and 2021. After 18 months of careful designing,
also have a KAL (knit along) or a MAL accessories. Patterns can be free or paid, planning and testing, 10 Australian designers
(make along). and sometimes a yarn kit can be available. united to create one beautiful blanket.
CALs are typically new patterns CALs can also be a great way to learn Kirsten Bishop, Andrea Harding, Mel
(although they don’t have to be) that are new stitches and techniques, challenge Harrison, Tegan Howes, Melissa Hughes,
made into an event. Quite often (but not yourself, or even make some new crochet Fiona Langtry, Carissa Macpherson, Colleen
always) the CAL is used as a way to launch friends. CALs are typically run virtually, via O’Neill, Melody Tallon and myself, Emma
a big pattern. The patterns are released a blog or through a pattern database like Wilkinson, each designed 11 rows to be
in sections or parts – usually weekly or Ravelry, and may include a hashtag or other added on to the last section, to make a
fortnightly – and people from all over the element to share on social media. beautiful continuous blanket. Thanks to
world can join in and work on the same CALs can be hosted by yarn companies, Kirsten Bishop’s perfect calculations, the
pattern together. Sometimes CALs can by the designers, or just by a group of friends border could be added at the end of any
have the added bonus of being a mystery, who want to work on a project together. section, allowing the maker to create a

blanket of any size. Each of the designers’
parts was released once a week, for 10 weeks.
Other ‘famous’ crochet alongs you may
have hear of are Sophie’s Universe by Dedri
Uys, Friedas Flowers by Jane Cowfoot, and
Atlanticus by Hooked on Sunshine
Just because a CAL is finished and the
whole pattern is available, doesn’t mean
you can’t join in. In fact, there is no pressure
to complete a CAL in the designated time.
The crochet police don’t come to your
house and tell you to stop!
The patterns for the Unity CAL and the
Remix block can be found on Ravelry:
ravelry.com/bundles/unity-cal-2021

PATTERN #17 | EASY
WAVE BY THIS LUSH CORNER
Waves come and go, transient yet always there.

A build up of solid power, to dissipate back from where they came.
Enjoy creating waves as they dance in a seamless spiral around the
bag. An ideal project for an everyday bag
Instagram: thislushcorner | Facebook: thislushcorner | Website: www.thislushcorner.com

YARN Round 12: *(3 tr), 12 tr, 2 tr2tog, sk 2 ch, ch 2, final round and handle construction. Refer to
Daruma sasawashi flat 100% bamboo paper tr into 3rd ch, ch 2* 6 times. (108 tr) the handle overview photo as guide to how it
yarn (25g/78m, equivalent to an Australian Round 13: *(2 tr), 12 tr, 2 tr2tog, ch 3, tr into comes together.
4 ply) 3 skeins, colour 102 beige. tr of prev round, ch 2* 6 times. (102 tr) • Tr into next tr of prev round, refer to step
Round 14: *(2 tr), 11 tr, 2 tr2tog, ch, tr into 1 to establish the i-cord foundation, turn
EQUIPMENT 1st ch, ch 2, tr into tr of prev round, ch 2* 6 work to wrong side, 2 dc into ch sp.
• 4 mm crochet hook times. (102 tr) • Using Steps 2 – 4, work the i-cord until
• needle Round 15: [(2 tr), 8 tr, 3 tr2tog, ch 3, *tr into the handle is 40cm long.
• scissors tr of prev round, ch 2* twice] 6 times. (90 tr) • Using Steps 5 – 7, sk 8 ch sps, tr into next
Round 16: [(2 tr), 6 tr, 3 tr2tog, ch 2, tr into tr of prev round, working the i-cord loops
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS 1st ch, ch 2 *tr into tr of prev round, ch 2* with the tr st.
Height= 20cm. Base width= 24cm. twice] 6 times. (84 tr) • Using Step 8, *ch 2, sk ch sp, tr into next tr
Round 17: [(2 tr), 4 tr, 3 tr2tog, ch, tr into of prev round* 13 times.
NOTES 1st ch, ch 2 *tr into tr of prev round, ch 2* 3 Repeat Steps 1 – 8 again to establish the
• Each round is worked continuously, times] 6 times. (78 tr) i-cord handle.
forming a spiral. To keep track of where Round 18: [(2 tr), 2 tr, 3 tr2tog, tr into 1st ch, *Ch 2, sk ch sp, tr into next tr of prev
the row ends and begins, use a stitch ch 2 *tr into tr of prev round, ch 2* 4 times] 6 round* 12 times, sl st into next tr of prev
marker or contrast colour thread woven times. (72 tr) round. (27 tr)
between the beginning and end of each Round 19: [(2 tr), 3 tr2tog, ch 2 *tr into tr of
round as stitches are worked. prev round, ch 2* 5 times] 6 times. (60 tr) FINISHING
• The handles are worked as an i-cord and are Round 20: [Tr, 2 tr2tog, ch 1, tr into 1st ch, Sew in and trim remaining ends. It is not
created during the final round of the bag. ch 2 *tr into tr of prev round, ch 2* 5 times] 6 necessary to wash the bag.
• For the first tr after the i-cord handle, times. (54 tr) If you’ve chosen to work with the paper
keep all 3 loops on hook, yarn over and tr Round 21: [Tr3tog, ch 2 *tr into tr of prev yarn, it has a water repellent quality
as normal, drawing through all 4 loops at round* 6 times] 6 times. (42 tr) included in the dyeing process. Simply
the end of the stitch to complete. Rounds 22- 28: *Tr into tr of prev round, sk stretch portions of the bag to even out the
ch sp, ch 2* till end of round (42 tr) work, if desired. This quality also means it
CROCHET TERMS Round 29: won’t dirty as easily.
Refer to abbreviations page. This round has been broken down into steps If you’ve chosen alternate yarn, wash as
Instructions given in brackets are worked with a visual guide to assist in completing the per fibre instructions and block. C
into the same base st. Instructions within
asterisks or square brackets are repeated a
set number of times.
PATTERN
Foundation round: Ch 4, sl st into 1st ch
created to close the loop.
Round 1: Ch 3, 11 tr into the ch loop. (12 tr
sts)
Round 2: 2 tr into 3rd ch of prev round, tr,
ch 2, *(2 tr) tr, ch 2* 5 times. (18 tr)
Round 3: *(3 tr), 2 tr, sk ch sp, ch 2* 6 times.
(30 tr)
(42 tr)
(54 tr)
(66 tr)
Round 7: *(3 tr), 10 tr, sk ch sp, ch 2* 6
times. (78 tr)
Round 8: *(3 tr), 10 tr, tr2tog, sk ch sp, ch 3*
6 times. (84 tr)
6 times. (90 tr)
Round 10: *(3 tr), 12 tr, tr2tog, sk ch sp, ch
4* 6 times. (96 tr)
6 times. (102 tr)

TUTORIAL Step 1 Step 2
Round 29 and crochet i-cord:
The i-cord is created using 3 stitches.
Step 1: To establish the 3 loops for the
i-cord, 2 dc are worked into the ch sp from
the wrong side of the bag.
When working each st, do not draw
through the final loop on the hook. Each st
worked will leave a loop on the hook. When
complete there should be 3 loops on the
hook ready for the i-cord.
Step 2: Remove the second and third
loops from the hook and hold them with Step 3 Step 4
your fingers or a needle. Be careful not to
let these loops unravel.
Yarn over and draw the yarn through the
first loop.
Step 3: Return the second loop to the hook.
Yarn over and draw the yarn through
that loop.
Step 4: Return the third loop to the hook.
Yarn over and draw the yarn through that
loop.
Repeat Steps 2–4 to continue working the Step 5 Step 6
i-cord.
Step 5: For the first tr after the i-cord handle
only. Keep all 3 loops on hook, yarn over,
push hook into tr of prev round, yarn over
and draw through st.
Step 6: Yarn over and draw through 2 loops.
Step 7: Yarn over and draw through
remaining 4 loops.
Step 8: Work as stated in instructions.
Overview
Image by This Lush Corner

Step 7
Step 8
LEAH
Website: www.thislushcorner.com | Instagram: @thislushcorner
Facebook: thislushcorner
and walking through crunchy leaves. idea to use a fluffy textured deep
Fits in well with my growing wardrobe purple yarn to knit my first scarf. I
of hand knits. I love handmade mean it was only garter stitch“what’s
items, the satisfying slow work with the fuss?” I’d powered though that
my hands and that warm feeling of scarf, row after row. I’d often stop, lay
creating something unique. it on my lap and admire it.
Creating is integrated within my Let’s say around two feet in, my
life, and holds enormous value. sister laughed at my scarf: I mean full
OW Needing to have a connection belly laugh.
GETTING TO KN between my hands and the source of My beautiful straight scarf was
THE DESIGNER the fibre is important. That’s how this moving on a nice steep 45 degree
lush corner was established. So now I angle.
I’m Leah, I live south of Canberra, share that love with the world. To my credit, I was consistently
surrounded by mountains, a veggie wrong. I consistently dropped
garden, chickens and my kids. Craft Getting to know you: My funniest stitches and miraculously found
and crochet have been in my life knitting story more. It’s not the how I did it but the
since I was a girl, starting with a My first knitted scarf project how I didn’t notice.
granny square, transforming into that will never be completed and Now, despite the strides I’ve
a playful craft and now into writing also never forgotten. Going back taken in my craft, my family have
patterns. Autumn is my favourite to my early teens, despite being a knack for taking me back to this
season: the colour changes, crisp air discouraged, I thought it was a grand humble beginning.

Yarn
WEIGHTS
Source: Craft Yarn Council | Website: craftyarncouncil.com/standards | Email: craftyarncouncil.com/standards
LACE YARN (weight 0)
0 • Knitting needles: 1.5 to 2.25mm, or sizes 000 to 1

• Crochet hook: Steel hooks that are 1.6 to 1.4mm or a regular
hook that is 2.25 mm. (Steel hooks are sized differently from
regular hooks – the higher the number, the smaller the hook,
which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.)
• Suggested gauge: 33 to 40 knit sts; 32 to 42 double crochet sts
• Types of lace yarn: fingering, 10-count crochet thread
SUPER FINE YARN (weight 1)

1 •
•
Knitting needles: 2.25 to 3.25mm, or sizes 1 to 3
Crochet hooks: 2.25 to 3.5mm, or sizes B-1 to E-4
• Suggested gauge: 27 to 32 knit sts; 21 to 32 crochet sts
• Types of super fine yarn: sock, fingering, baby
FINE YARN (weight 2)

2 •
•
Knitting needles: 3.25 to 3.75mm, or sizes 3 to 5
Crochet hooks: 3.5 to 4.5mm, or sizes E-4 to 7
• Types of fine yarn: sport, baby

LIGHT YARN (weight 3)
• Crochet hooks: 4.5 to 5.5mm, or sizes 7 to I-9
• Types of light yarn: DK, light worsted
MEDIUM COMMONLY CALLED WORSTED

YARN (weight 4)
• Crochet hooks: 5.5 to 6.5mm, or sizes I–9 to K–101⁄2
• Types of medium yarn: worsted, afghan, aran
BULKY YARN (weight 5)

5 •
•
Knitting needles: 5.5 to 8mm, or sizes 9 to 11
Crochet hooks: 6.5 to 9mm, or sizes K–101⁄2 to M–13
• Types of bulky yarn: chunky, craft, rug
SUPER BULKY YARN (weight 6)

6 • Knitting needles: 8 to 12.75mm, or sizes 11 to 17
• Crochet hooks: 9 to 15mm, or sizes M–13 to Q
• Types of super bulky yarn: super bulky, roving
JUMBO YARN (weight 7)

7 •
•
Knitting needles: 12.75mm and larger, or sizes 17 and larger
Crochet hooks: 15mm and larger, or sizes Q and larger
• Suggested gauge: 6 knit sts and fewer; 6 crochet sts and fewer
• Types of jumbo yarn: jumbo, roving

Common
CROCHET
STITCHES
AUS/UK/Homespun USA Symbol How To Make
Ch Chain Ch Chain Yarn over and draw through 1 loop.
Sl st Slip stitch Sl st Slip stitch Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and
draw the loop through the stitch
and the loop on the hook.
Dc Double Sc Single crochet Insert hook in stitch, yarn over,

crochet draw through 1 loop. Yarn over,
draw through 2 loops.
Htr Half treble Hdc Half double crochet Yarn over, insert hook in stitch,
crochet yarn over and pull up a loop (3
loops on hook), yarn over and pull
through all 3 loops.
Tr Treble crochet Dc Double crochet Yarn over, insert hook in stitch,
yarn over and pull up a loop (3
loops on hook). Yarn over and pull
through 2 loops twice.
Dtr Double treble Tr Treble Yarn over twice, insert hook in
stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop
(4 loops on hook). Yarn over and
pull through 2 loops 3 times.
Trtr Triple treble Dtr Double treble Yarn over 3 times, insert hook in
stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop
(5 loops on hook). Yarn over and
pull through 2 loops 4 times.

COMMON TERMINOLOGY CROCHET HOOK
USED IN CROCHET PATTERNS CONVERSION CHART
Abbreviation Meaning Metric Hook Sizes Canada/US UK
Sk Skip 2.0mm 14 0
2.25mm 13 B/1
Bp Back post
2.75mm 12 C/2
Fp Front post
3.0mm 11 C/2
Fl Front loop 3.25mm 10 D/3
3.5mm – E/4
Bl Back loop
3.75mm 9 F/5
Sp Space
4mm 8 G/6
Beg Beginning 4.5mm 7 7
5.0mm 6 H/8
Bet Between
5.5mm 5 I/9
Pm Place marker
6.0mm 4 J/10
Rep Repeat 6.5mm 3 K/101⁄2
7.0mm 2 10.75
Tog Together
7.5mm 1 -
Prev Previous
8.0mm 0 L/11
Dc2tog/dc3tog Double crochet 2/3 together 9.0mm 00 M/13
10.0mm 000 N/15

RS Right side
11.0mm – O/17
WS Wrong side
12.0mm – P/19
Yo Yarn over (means the same as yarn over hook 15.0mm – Q/19
or yarn round hook)
16.0mm – S/35
* Repeat instructions between two asterisks
for a stated number of times 19.0mm – 50
() Repeat instructions between brackets in
the same place (stated in the pattern). 25.0mm – -

STOCKISTS
Crochet Australia The Australian Yarn
www.crochetaustralia.com.au Company
(07) 54728586 www.ausyarnco.com.au
(03) 5442 4673
Lola Lovegrove
www.lolalovegrove.com.au Travelrite International
0413 551 402 www.travelrite.com.au
1800 630 343
Mooroolbark Wool
& Haberdashery Yarns on Collie
www.theaussieknittingco.com www.woolshop.com.au
(03) 9726 7291 (08) 9335 4455
Texyarns International Yummy Yarn and Co

www.texyarns.com www.yummyyarnandco.com.au
(03) 9562 0033 0431 754 909

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