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ME561 (AE Lab Manual) - 230210 - 091614
ME561 (AE Lab Manual) - 230210 - 091614
Issue No: 03
Date w.e.f.: 01Aug 2018
LAB MANUAL
Prepared By: Mr. Prabhjot Singh Reviewed By: Dr. Kulwinder Singh Approved By: Dr. Anoop Kumar Singh
2 Valve refacing & valve seat grinding & checking for leakage of valves.
6 Replacing of ring & studying the method of replacing piston after Repair.
Table of Contents
Experiment No. 01
a) Theory: The purpose of the cooling system is to keep the engine at its most efficient
temperature at all speeds and under all operating conditions. During the combustion of the air-
fuel mixture, and engine cylinder temperature of 2500 degrees Celsius or higher may be reached
by the burning gases. Most of the heat is absorbed by the cylinder walls, cylinder head and
piston. They, in turn, must be provided with some means of cooling so that they will not get too
hot. Also, removing too much heat will reduce the thermal efficiency of the engine. The cooling
systems are designed to remove 1/3 of the heat produced due to combustion.
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Experiment No. 01
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Experiment No. 01
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Experiment No. 01
6. Precautions:
Following safety precautions are to be observed before, during and after the
experiment.
a) Be careful while the opening pressure cap as the hot liquid may ooze out.
b) Don’t put hands between the cooling fan as it may start automatically.
c) Don’t expose your bare hands to the coolant.
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Experiment No. 02
1. Aim: Valve refacing & valve seat grinding & checking for leakage of valves.
2. Objectives/ Expected outcomes:
a) To understand the assembly and disassembly of a valve mechanism
b) To know about the use of feeler gauge
c) The reason behind the unequal sizing of valves of inlet and exhaust valve.
3. Tools/types of equipment required with specifications:
a) Valve grinding equipment
b) Grinding paste, rotating tool
c) Cylinder headstand
d) Set of spanners
e) Spring compressor
f) Circlip
g) Plier
4. Procedure: Theory/description/procedure.
a. Theory: Valve Nomenclature
Face: This is the skirt around the base of the uppermost part of the valve.
Seat: This is the ground area of the cylinder head that matches the shape of the face.
Together the Face and the Seat provide the tight gas-tight seal necessary for engine
operation.
Stem: This is the metal "stick" that controls the opening of the valve. Usually, a cam
turns and lifts the branch, which in turn raises the valve.
Guide: This is a tube in which the stem moves. Together with the guide and stem
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Experiment No. 02
b) Procedure:
i. Removing the valve:
Drain the cooling system. Disconnect upper radiator hoses from the engine.
Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect throttle linkage fuel line & air &vacuum hoses
from the carburettor or the fuel injection system.
Remove or move aside lines & hoses are necessary to get at the cylinder head.
Disconnect spark plug cables & temperature sending unit wire.
Remove PVC hoses. On the air injection system, disconnect the air hose at the
check valve. Then remove the air supply to assembly.
Remove valve cover.
On engines with stud-mounted rocker arms, the rockers arm & the pushrod can now
be removed. If they are left on, the nuts should be loosened so that the rocker arms
can be moved aside & the pushrods removed.
Pushrods should be placed in a rack in order & can be reinstalled in proper
positions. On the overhead valve engine, the condition of the pushrods & valve
lifters should be checked.
Remove cylinder head bolts. Take the cylinder head off the engine.
Remove only one valve at a time unless you are planning a total overhaul. This is
because they wear in each valve face and seat and each stem and guide match.
To remove the valve, make use of a spring compressor.
Compress the spring and remove the locking cap.
Please take a look at the end of the valve stem; you will see that it has a small plate
or washer and a locking device (which is probably a simple cotter pin). Compress
the spring using the spring compressor, then remove the locking device and plate.
You should now be able to draw the valve out of its guide by pushing up on the
stem.
ii. Refacing the valve & valve seat grinding
Place a cloth in through the valve hole to prevent the grind paste from getting where it is
not desired. This stuff is designed for grinding metal, so imagine what it would do if it got
between the moving parts of your engine. Apply the course grade paste to the face in a
thin layer using your finger. Place the valve into the seat and rotate it back and forth under
a light pressure around half a turn, then back. Do this for five seconds. Lift the valve and
turn it a quarter turn then repeat. Do this through all four quarters.
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Experiment No. 02
Remove the valve from the seat and carefully wipe all the paste from the valve and
the seat. Next, apply the finishing compound and repeat the operation. When done,
remove the valve and wipe away all the paste. Repeat the refacing check with
engineers blue to see if the job has been done well. If not, repeat. Another way of
testing is to mark the face of the valve with a lead pencil about every 5mm, replace
the valve in the set, rotate it through a single turn, remove the valve, and check the
marks. If they are all removed, then the job is done.
iii. Reassembly
Lightly put oil in the valve all over.
Put the compressed spring back in place and drop in the valve.
Put the locking device in place and put the locking pin back in.
Decompress the spring and remove the spring compressor.
Push the valve stem with your finger. It should not show any side to side
movement.
Try to activate the valve taking note of the spring pressure.
All the valves should be the same.
Try and rotate the valve through a complete turn with the screwdriver and
make sure it works freely without binding.
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Experiment No. 02
5. Precautions:
Following safety precautions are to be observed before, during and after the experiment.
a) Be careful to avoid over-grinding of the valve seat.
b) Always use clean & uniform grinding paste & lapping compound.
c) Replace the compound frequently
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Experiment No. 03
1. Aim: Troubleshooting in the ignition system, setting of contact breaker points and spark
plug gap.
2. Objectives/ Expected outcomes:
a) Importance of ignition timing.
b) Identify faulty elements in the whole ignition system.
c) Spark plug types and their utilization.
3. Tools/Equipment with specifications:
a) Spanner set
b) Ignition system
c) Battery
d) Pliers
e) Screwdrivers
f) Multimeter etc.
4. Procedure: Theory/description/procedure.
a) Theory: The purpose of the ignition system is to ignite the compressed air-fuel
mixture in the engine combustion chamber. This should occur at the correct time for
the combustion to begin. To start the combustion, the ignition system delivers an
electric spark that jumps a gap at the combustion chamber ends of the spark plugs.
This spark ignites the compressed air-fuel mixture. The mixture burns, creating
pressure that pushes the piston down the cylinder to rotate the crankshaft to make the
engine run.
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Experiment No. 03
The ignition system includes a battery, ignition switch, ignition coil, distributor (with
contact points & condenser), secondary winding & the spark plugs. An ignition circuit
consists of two sub-circuits: the primary, which carries low voltage; and the secondary,
which carries high voltage. The primary circuit, controlled by the ignition key, releases
12 volts of electricity from the battery or alternator through the coil to a set of breaker
points in the lower part of the distributor, or to the relay in electronic ignition
applications. When the points or relay are closed, current flows through the chassis back
to the battery, completing the circuit. When the points or relay are open, the flow stops,
causing a high-voltage surge to pass from the coil through a rotor in the top of the
distributor to the spark plugs. Once the car has started, the voltage regulator protects the
battery from being overcharged by the alternator. The condenser absorbs part of the low-
voltage current when the points are open.
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Experiment No. 03
magnetic field is built up. When the current is shut off, the magnetic field
collapses. The secondary circuit consists of the secondary winding, which
produces the high voltage needed to arc across the spark plug gap. The voltage
is sent out the cap, where a rotor distributor distributes the spark to the various
spark plugs at the right time.
iv. Distributor, The distributor, helps in accomplishing two jobs. First, it has a
set of contact breaker points that work as a fast-acting switch. When the points
close the current flows through the coil. When the points are open, the flow of
current stops & the coil produces a high voltage surge. A condenser connects
across the points . It aids the collapse of the magnetic field & helps reduce
arching that burns away the points.
Secondly, the distributor distributes the high voltage surges to the spark plugs in
the correct firing order. A coil wire delivers the high voltage from the coil to the
centre terminal of the distributor cap. Inside the cap, a rotor is on the top of the
distributor shaft. The distributor takes its drive from the engine camshaft by a
pair of gears. The high voltage surge jumps the small gap from the rotor blade
to the terminal. The spark plug wires carry the high voltage to the spark plug in
the cylinder that is ready to fire.
v. Contact breaker The contact breaker points are located in a distributor which
opens &closes, the breaker point as many as 15000 25000 times a minute.
When the points are closed, circuit current is allowed to flow through the
ignition coil, thereby building a magnetic field around the winding. When the
points are open, they interrupt the current flow, thereby collapsing the magnetic
field & releasing a high voltage surge. This high voltage enters the top of the
distributor, where an ignition rotor distributes that voltage to the right spark
plugs at the right time.
vi. Condenser The condenser provided prevents arching by absorbing excessive
current when the point opens & provide a buffer for the voltage fluctuations,
thereby intensifying the surge at the time of closing of contacts to resume the
supply of current to the plugs.
vii. Primary and secondary coil cables There are two active circuits in an ignition
system: the primary and secondary circuits. The primary circuit is composed of
wiring between the power source and the ignition coil and carries a 12V or 24V.
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Experiment No. 03
The ignition switch is provided on the primary circuit as the voltage is low. The
secondary cables or wiring include the coil wire and the spark plug wires. These
cables connect between the centre of the ignition coil and the distributor cap and
between the distributor cap and the spark plugs. These cables are 7-8mm. These
cables use silicon jackets for insulation.
viii. Spark plugs. The spark plug has two solid metal conductors called electrodes
positioned to form a gap. The gap is between the insulated centre electrode and
the ground electrode. This gap is kept in between .7-1.5mm. The spark jumps
the gap to ignite the compressed air-fuel mixture in the engine cylinder.
Causes of ignition failure
Ignition system failure in contact point system can be grouped into three
categories
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Experiment No. 03
electrodes and proclaim tip. These after filing, the electrodes gap can be
reset if the plug is in good condition.
ii. Contact point service: Buried or worn contact points should be replaced.
They are supplied in sets with stationery and moveable point on the
contact arm. Adjustment is made by turning an eccentric or by moving the
stationary contact point support.
iii. Distributor service: The contact point distributors require periodic
checking of contact points and their replacement or adjustment as
necessary. Also, the centrifugal and vacuum advance should be checked
to ensure their proper functioning. These checks require the removal of
distributor for testing in a distributor tester, which tests it at various
speeds and vacuum to check the operation performance of centrifugal and
vacuum advances.
5. Precautions: Following safety, precautions are to be observed before, during and after the
experiment.
a) Do not short circuit the battery by joining the positive & the negative
terminal.
b) Ensure that the insulation of the secondary coil is in good condition.
c) Make sure that the connections are correct before connecting the power
supply.
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Experiment No. 04
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Experiment No. 04
Gearbox, Pitman arm or drop arm, drag link, tie rods, steering knuckle etc. and in case
of power steering, the effort required to turn the wheels is with the help of an external
agency, either hydraulic or electronic.
Hydraulic power steering is very dependable but complex in operation. When
problems occur, a basic understanding prevents many expensive mistakes.
Virtually all vehicles built today employ power steering. Electric steering is
becoming increasingly popular, but hydraulic steering is likely to remain prevalent for
the foreseeable future. Hydraulic steering uses a pump, generally driven by a belt.
The pump supplies pressure, and driver control is provided through either the rack and
pinion or a steering gearbox.
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Experiment No. 04
rest. In this position, fluid flows around the valve and out to the reservoir. Slight
pressure also enters both sides of the assist cylinder. Because pressure is equal on
both sides of the piston, nothing occurs. As the steering wheel is rotated, a susceptible
torsion bar twists and turns the steering control valve. The valve blocks the port to
the reservoir, and fluid flows through an opening to one side of the steering gear. At
the same time, the other side of the cylinder is vented to the reservoir.
With pressure on one side and none on the other, the piston moves and causes the
wheels to turn. When the steering wheel is released, the valve returns to neutral,
pressure equalizes, and the turning of the wheels stops. Turned in the opposite
direction, the port that was previously pressurized is vented to the reservoir. Fluid
pressure is now applied to the opposite side of the steering gear, and the vehicle steers
the other way. The most common problems with steering gears and rack and pinions
are leaks and slack in the steering. The pump, pressure and return lines also leak and
are replaceable. Leaking from the gearbox or rack and pinion most often is repaired
by installing a rebuilt part.
Steering geometry parameters
The various parameters that enter into front end steering geometry are:
a) Camber
b) Caster
c) Steering axis inclination
d) Included Angle
e) Scrub Radius
f) Toe-In and Toe out
The following sections will include these parameters along with their effects on
steering performance.
a) Camber
This is the angle between the wheel and the vertical measured in degrees, when
viewed from the front of the vehicle. If the top of the wheel is learning out from the
centre of the car. Then the camber is positive otherwise negative. If the camber is out
of adjustment it will cause tires wear on one side of the tires tread.
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Experiment No. 04
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Experiment No. 04
d) Included angle
This is the angle formed between the SAI and the camber. The included angle is
defined as the algebraic sum of SAI and the camber. If the camber is negative, then
the included angle will be less than SAI; otherwise, be more. The included angle must
be the same from side to side, even if the camber is different. If it is not the same,
then the knuckle has a tendency to bend.
e) Scrub radius
This is the distance between where the SAI intersects the ground and the centre of the
tire. This distance must be exactly the same from side to side or the vehicle will pull
strongly at all speeds. In contrast, included angle problem will affect it. Different
wheels or tires from side to side will cause differences in scrub radius as wheel as the
tire is low on air.
The positive scrub radius is when the tire contact patch is outside of the SAI pivot,
while the negative scrub radius is where the contact path is inboard of the SAI pivot.
With a positive scrub, radius stepping on the brake will cause the steering wheel to try
to rip out of your hand. A negative scrub radius will minimize the effect. Scrub radius
is inherent in design attributes and is not adjustable.
f) Toe in & toe out
The toe in measurement is the difference in the distance between the front of the tires
and the back of the tires, as seen from the top of the vehicle. It is measured in
fractions of an inch and is usually set close to zero, which means that the wheels are
parallel with each other.
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Experiment No. 04
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Experiment No. 05
1. Aim: Fault diagnosis in transmission system including clutches gears box assembly and
differential.
2. Expected outcomes/Objectives:
a) Identify the basic parts of transmission used in automobile.
b) Understand the concept of Hotch kiss and toque tube drive.
c) Torque transmission through friction clutch
d) Impact absorption in clutch plate
3. Tools &Equipments required:
a) Transmission System
b) Wrench, hammer
c) Set of spanners
d) Screwdriver
e) Plier
f) Chisel etc.
4. Theory: -
a) Transmission system- Transmission system is responsible for the flow of
power from the engine to the wheels as per the requirements. The main
components of the transmission system are clutch, gearbox, and propeller
shaft, differential, axles etc.
b) Clutch-Clutch is a device which is used to resume or cut the power supply from the
engine to the gearbox whenever required.
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Experiment No. 05
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Experiment No. 05
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Experiment No. 05
6. Troubleshooting in transmission
Complaint Possible Cause Check or Correction
a. Clutch not releasing Adjust
b. Excessive clutch
pedal Adjust
1.
Hard shifting c. Play shifting tube
into gears binding into steering
column Correct tube alignment
a. Clutch not releasing Adjust
b. Gear shift linkage Adjust
not adjusted
Transmission c. Linkage needs Lubricate
2.
Stick in gears lubrication
d. Insufficient or Replace with correct
incorrect lubricant in lubricant
transmission
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Experiment No. 05
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Experiment No. 05
Troubleshooting in differential
a. Incorrect internal Differential should be
Unusual adjustment of the drive adjusted.
1. humming noise pinion
in differential b. Incorrect internal
adjustment of the ring gear
a. Heavy contact on Both must be corrected
Noise on the heel ends of the gear
2
Acceleration teeth
b. Heavy toe contact
a. Pinion gears tight Loose the pinion gear
on the pinion shaft
b. Damaged gears on Replace pinion gear
pinions
3 Noise on Curves c. Too much backlash Replace Gears
between gears
d. Worn differential Replace case
case bearing
e. Defective Axle Change Axle
7. Precautions:
a) Be careful while dealing with these heavy parts.
b) Always wear protective equipments
c) Keep the working area clean from oil and grease
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Experiment No. 06
1) Aim: -Replacing of ring & studying the method of replacing piston after Repair.
2) Expected outcomes/objectives:
a) Functions of Oil ring and their position on piston.
b) Function of pressure ring and their position on piston
c) Measuring the size of piston at correct spot.
3) Tools & equipments required with specifications:
a) Set Of Spanners
b) Ring Expander
c) Ring Compressor
d) Plier
e) Screwdriver Set
f) Cleaning Pan
g) Hammer
h) Circlip Plier.
4) Procedure: Theory/description/procedure.
a) Theory & Procedure:
i. Piston replacement: Piston & connecting rods are removed from the cylinder
block as an assembly. First of all drain & remove the oil pan. Turn the crankshaft
so that number 1 piston is near BDC. If the rod & the cap have no identifying
marks, mark each one of them. Turn the crankshaft to get at & number the rods &
caps of other cylinders. Remove the rods bolts & cap. Use rod bolt guide sleeves
to keep the bolt threads from scratching the crankshaft journal. Push up the piston
rod assembly & remove it from the top of the cylinder. Remove the other
assemblies. Put them in order in a numbered piston rack
ii. Separating pistons & rod: Connecting rod is attached to the piston with a free-
floating pin. To remove the pin, remove the retainer & slide the pin out. If the pin is
a press fit place the piston & rod assembly in a special fixture. Then use the shop
press to force out the pin. A pin press will also do the job. However, failure to
properly support the piston may distort or break it.
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Experiment No. 06
iii. Piston & ring service: New piston rings usually must be installed if the piston is
removed from the cylinder after the engine has run. Once the rings break in coating
& tool marks wear off, the rings will not reseat & seal if they are installed. Use a
piston ring expander & remove the rings from the piston. Inspect the piston for
wear, scuff marks, scored skirts, & worn ring grooves. Look for cracks at the ring
lands, skirts, pin bosses, & heads. If any piston is damaged locate & correct the
cause. Discard all damaged pistons. Scrap the piston heads Clean. Soak the pistons
in a part cleaning solution that is safe to use on aluminium .Do not use corrosive or
caustic solutions. Don’t use a wire brush on piston skirts. They could damage the
pistons. Clean out the ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner or a piece of an old
ring. Clean out oil holes or slots in the back of ring grooves with a drill & small
picks. Measure the diameter of the piston with a micrometer. Measure the diameter
of the cylinder. If the clearance is excessive, install a new piston. A typical piston is
0.025-0.05mm.Engines with excessively worn or tapered cylinders require reboring.
Then install new oversize piston & rings. Install the rings on the piston with the
proper side facing up. Piston rings installed upside down may cause excessive oil
consumption.
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Experiment No. 06
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Experiment No. 06
iv Piston & ring assembly installation: Make sure that hands, work, bench, tools,
all engine parts are clean. Don’t unwrap the bearings until you are ready to install
them. Wipe each bearing half with a clean lint free cloth just before installing it.
Put the bearing shells in the cap & rod. If the shells have locking tangs make sure
the tangs enter the notches provided in the cap & rod. Then coat each bearing half
with clean engine oil or with the specified engine assembly lubricant. Dip the
piston in oil & then compress the rings so that they slide into the cylinders. One
method is to use a piston ring compressor. Use guide sleeves to protect the crank
pins when installing the assemblies. Make sure the piston & rods are assembled&
installed facing in the proper directions. With a thickness gauge measure the
connecting rod side clearance. Too little clearance means a bend or twisted
connecting rod. If the connecting rod side clearance is within specifications,
complete the installation of the piston & rod assemblies. Follow the steps
described above for each cylinder. If no additional engine service work is to be
performed, the oil pan can be installed.
5) Precautions: Following safety precautions are to be observed before,
during and after experiment.
a) Heavy blows can distort or break the rod or cap or may cause the
beginning of hairline fracture
b) Handle the pistons with care
c) If the pin is too loose in the piston, get a new piston & pin set.
d) Always wear protective clothing and safety devices
e) Keep the working area clean from oil and grease.
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Experiment No. 07
4. Procedure: Theory/description/procedure.
a) Theory: Rotating components experience significant quality and performance
improvements when balanced. Balancing is the process of aligning a principal inertia
axis with the geometric axis of rotation through the addition or removal of material.
By doing so, the centrifugal forces are reduced, minimizing vibration, noise and
associated wear. Virtually all rotating components experience significant
improvements when balanced. Consumers throughout the global market continue to
demand value in the products they purchase. They demand performance - smaller,
lighter, more efficient, more powerful, quieter, smoother running and longer lasting.
Balancing can contribute to each of these and is one of the most cost effective means
of providing value to the consumer.
Balancing machines fall into two major classes .those that spin the workpiece and
those that don’t. These are known as dynamic and static balancers respectively. A
dynamic balancer is also known as a centrifugal balancer. Dynamic balancers are
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Experiment No. 07
further separated into two distinct classes .soft bearing and hard bearing balancers.
This distinction is made according to the relative stiffness of the measuring system.
Static balancers depend totally upon the force of gravity to detect unbalance.
Consequently, they are only sensitive to static unbalance and are completely unable
to detect couple unbalance. A dynamic balancer with 2 sensing elements is
required to sense couple unbalance.
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Experiment No. 07
and mounting hole. While balancer running do not impact it to ensure the best testing
result.
b). Procedure:
i. Turn on the main power
ii. Position a suitable cone on the shaft (flange)
iii. Place the wheel on the shaft against the cone.
iv. Push the unlocked quick-action clamping nut onto the shaft and press firmly
against the wheel.
v. After the WBE 4110 is switched on, the software version appears in the
control/display panel for several seconds. After this, both displays show the
value 0.
vi. Place the electronic verniercalliper for measuring the rim distance, width and
diameter on the rim and hold in position for one second.
vii. The measurement location display depends on the balancing program
selected.
viii. An acoustic signal sounds to indicate that the position has been registered.
ix. The left-hand display shows the rim width, the Right-hand display the rim
diameter.
x. If the rim distance and rim diameter cannot be electronically measured, the
wheel data may also be entered manually.
xi. The rim width can be read on the rim or measured with the compass.
xii. Close the wheel guard.
xiii. The unbalance measurement commences automatically. Eight seconds later,
the balancer brakes and the exact imbalance value can be analyzed and be
displayed.
xiv. On left of display inner balancing plane, on right of display outer balancing
plane.
xv. Open the wheel guard.
xvi. Turn the wheel slowly by hand to locate the balanced point, make sure that all
the balance
xvii. Indicators on the inner lateral side are light.
xviii. Move the wheel to the corresponding position 12 o'clock.
xix. Turn the wheel slowly by hand to locate the balanced point, make sure that all
the balance
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Experiment No. 07
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Experiment No. 08
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Experiment No. 08
slowly sink to the floor when your foot applies steady pressure letting go of the
first pedal and immediately stepping on it again brings the pedal back to the
normal height.
iii. Brake fluid-This is a special fluid that has specific properties. It is designed to
with stand cold temperature without thickening as well as very high temperature
without boiling. Brake fluid must meet standards. The brake fluid level will
drop slightly in the reservoir as the brake pedal is pressed as the master cylinder
allows the fluid o come from the reservoir to be pushed to the wheel cylinders
for actuations. This is a normal condition and no cause for concern if the level
drops noticeably over a short period of time or goes down to about two third full
has your brakes checked as soon as possible. Keep the reservoir covered.
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Experiment No. 08
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Experiment No. 08
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Experiment No. 08
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Experiment No. 09
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Experiment No. 09
Before making any adjustment, first determine if this adjustment will help you. If
you feel that your brake pedal travels a long distance before you get braking force
(and it's not air in the line), you may have too much freeplay. Test freeplay on a
car that is NOT running by first pumping the pedal several times to get rid of
booster vacuum assist, then with approx a 2 lb force (easy press with 2 fingers)
move the brake pedal. You will be able to feel an initial tiny slop in the linkage
mechanism (from the clevis pin) and then the freeplay of a few mm, then you'll
feel pressure from the master cylinder preventing you from pushing it further. The
distance the pedal moves during the "freeplay" part of this movement is what you
are trying to adjust. The spec is from 0.5mm to 2mm according to the service
manual:
To adjust freeplay, first get a good look at the area and what things are: Use your
17mm Flare Wrench to loosen the locknut on the booster rod. Use your pliers to
turn the rod until freeplay is minimized. Don't go too far or your brakes will drag.
You MUST maintain at least 0.5mm of freeplay to prevent dragging brakes!
Remember, if you're trying to get less freeplay, you need to turn it so that less of
the end of the rod sticks through the bracket on the back of the pedal.
After adjusting rod, tighten the locknut down to keep the setting. Then, test your
brake lights to make sure they activate when you apply light braking pressure (if
you are using light brakes in traffic and your lights don't come on, some moron
will plow you). If you need them to activate sooner, adjust the position of the
brake light switch by loosening its locknut and turning the other nut the proper
direction to pull the switch up and back a little. This will increase the freeplay a
bit. The key is to end up with between 0.5 and 2mm of freeplay between the
switch and rod adjustments. Be sure to tighten the locknut down again after
adjusting. If you want to bring the freeplay on the pedal extremely tight, but still
want your brake light to turn on with the slightest pedal touch to avoid getting
rear-ended, remove brakelight switch from the pedal assembly, file off a
milimeter or two of the button tip, then reinstall. This will give the button a
shorter stroke to activate and allow your adjustment to be tighter.
ii. Air bleeding from hydraulic brakes, air bleeding of diesel fuel system
1. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Draw out the old fluid
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Experiment No. 09
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Experiment No. 09
Fig 2
5. Precautions: Following safety precautions are to be observed before, during and after
experiment.
a) For the equipment using single phase power supply, when starting the operation
push the wheel by hand one time to assist starting and prolonging service life.
b) Do not uninstall or replace the parts without the instruction of the technical
c) Person, otherwise the regular operation of the machine could be affected.
d) Make sure the lock nut is tightened.
e) Do not strike the spindle shaft when installing or removing the wheel.
LM/ME561/09 Page 4 of 4
Chandigarh-Patiala National Highway (NH-07), Rajpura, Patiala, Punjab-140401