Oreo

ESTHETICS
T E A C H E R ’ S
S T U D Y G U I D E
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Courtesy of Dermalogica.
Learning is a treasure that will follow its owner everywhere.~ Chinese Proverb
A Resource for Your Skin Care Career
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ESTHETICS
STUDY GUIDE
Teacher’s Edition
Clif St. Germain, Ph.D., creator and author
Janet Fisher, developer and author
© 2004 Clif St. Germain
ISBN-13: 978-0-9742723-3-7
ISBN-10: 0-9742723-3-7
2nd Edition
4th Printing, December 2011
This publication is protected under U.S. and worldwide copyright laws and may not be copied, reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, broadcast or quoted in whole or in part in any form, or by any means:
electronically or mechanically, printed, photocopied, recorded, scanned or otherwise, nor may derivative works
be created from it without written permission from Pivot Point International, Inc. More detailed information
on copyright can be found at: pivot-point.com/copyright.html
Trademarks: Pivot Point, the Pivot Point Logo, the P Design, and Salon Fundamentals are trademarks or
registered trademarks of Pivot Point International, Inc., in the United States and other countries, and may not
be used without written permission.
Pivot Point International, Inc.

World Headquarters Tre
1560 Sherman Avenue, Suite 700
Evanston, IL 60201 USA
847-866-0500 (Outside U.S.)

800-886-4247
pivot-point.com
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Salon Fundamentals™ Esthetics

Career Essentials
The Science of Skin Care
Treatments and Services

iii

CONTENTS
SALON FUNDAMENTALS™ ESTHETICS STUDY GUIDE
OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I CHAPTER 10, FACIALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291

UNIT 1 CAREER ESSENTIALS SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .292
BASIC FACIAL RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
CHAPTER 1, PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
BASIC FACIAL WITH MULTIFUNCTION
SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 MACHINE RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 BASIC FACIAL WITH GALVANIC/
DESINCRUSTATION RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309
CHAPTER 2, PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT . . . . . . . . . . .29 BASIC FACIAL WITH GALVANIC/
IONTOPHORESIS RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
BASIC FACIAL WITH INDIRECT
BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
HIGH FREQUENCY RUBRIC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
BASIC FACIAL WITH DIRECT
CHAPTER 3, BUSINESS BASICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
HIGH FREQUENCY RUBRIC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
CHAPTER 11, HAIR REMOVAL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331
UNIT 2 THE SCIENCE OF SKIN CARE SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
EYEBROW WAXING RUBRIC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
CHAPTER 4, SKIN CARE CENTER ECOLOGY . . . . . . . . . . . .89 UPPER LIP WAXING RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346
UNDERARM WAXING RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 BIKINI WAXING RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 LOWER LEG WAXING RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352
BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359
CHAPTER 5, ANATOMY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 CHAPTER 12, MAKEUP. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366
BASIC DAYTIME MAKEUP RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
CHAPTER 6, ELECTRICITY AND ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT. . 173 BASIC EVENING MAKEUP RUBRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393
BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
CHAPTER 13, ADVANCED TREATMENTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .401
CHAPTER 7, CHEMISTRY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402
BRAIN CONDITIONER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230
CHAPTER 14, ESTHETICIANS IN THE MEDICAL FIELD . . .428
CHAPTER 8, SKIN PHYSIOLOGY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .429
GLOSSARY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
UNIT 3 TREATMENTS AND SERVICES

CHAPTER 9, CLIENT CARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267
SMART NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268
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OVERVIEW
Welcome to the Study Guide that accompanies your Salon Fundamentals Esthetics™ textbook.
Maybe you wonder why there are two books instead of one. That’s easy enough. Your text was
written by experts, women and men who have proven their skills in the world you want to enter.
Your Study Guide will be written by YOU. It is the place where learning will become your own.
Everything you need to know to be successful in Salon Fundamentals Esthetics™ is included in
your Study Guide. It is designed to boost your learning potential and take the fear and confusion
out of your professional preparation.
Because everyone learns in different ways, it is reasonable to expect parts of this Study Guide to be
easy for you and others difficult. Most of your life you have practiced certain ways of learning and
avoided others. Take a moment now to think of some ways of learning that you avoid whenever
you can. Over the next few days, talk with a few other people and find out what ways of learning
they avoid.
Guess what? Most of those preferred and avoided ways of learning will be included in this Study
Guide in order to make your learning more complete. You can gain confidence by thinking of your
Study Guide as a jigsaw puzzle. Each piece involves a special way of learning, of using brainpower.
Put the easiest pieces together first. (Remember that the easiest pieces for you may be hardest
for someone else.) That way you will have more experience when you attempt the more difficult
pieces. The more you practice the difficult parts, the easier they will become and the smarter your
brain becomes. Successful students are not born after all. They evolve by developing a diverse set of
learning tools that help them connect new information to what they already know. This Study Guide
aims to help you build as diverse a set of learning tools as you possibly can.
The Salon FundamentalsTM Esthetics Study Guide groups many of these learning puzzle pieces
into MINDFRAMES. Each MINDFRAME is a specific way of using your brainpower to make you
smarter. Your Study Guide is organized around seven different MINDFRAMES or puzzle pieces:
PREVIEWING, NAMING, CONNECTING, SELF-CHECKING, APPLYING, SELF-TESTING and
JOURNALING. We don’t mean to suggest that each MINDFRAME is completely separate from
the others. They overlap in rich and rewarding ways just the way your mind itself does. One
MINDFRAME flows into another.
To help you identify the specific MINDFRAME each activity requires, an icon is placed at the
bottom of every Study Guide page. That way you know what kind of brainpower you will be using
most on that page. The MINDFRAME you need on each page is highlighted in pink. On some
pages, two MINDFRAMES are suggested. The following information introduces you to each
MINDFRAME and shows how it works in your Study Guide.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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MINDFRAME 1: PREVIEWING
Previewing sets the stage for purposeful

learning. It enables you to get the big
picture, the overall design of what you
will study before you turn your attention
to the details.
Research tells us that 80% of what you

need to learn is contained in 20% of
the material you study. Known as the
80-20 rule, this finding supports the
importance of knowing what to study
before you begin. Your Study Guide
aims to take the mystery out of what’s
important by showcasing the most
important material on the first page or
two of each chapter. It gives you a sneak
preview of the whole chapter.
Let’s see how it works. Here is a sample

of what you will see on the first page of
each Study Guide chapter. The VALUE
states why this material is important to you personally. The MAIN IDEA states the fundamental
message of the chapter. The PLAN gives a preview of the general content of the chapter. The
OBJECTIVES communicate the expectations you will be prepared to meet once you successfully
complete the chapter. The OBJECTIVES identify each new section of the Smart Notes. Together
these pieces represent the “warm-up” stages of learning. Can you imagine an athlete entering
a competition before warming up? A student needs warm-up time as well! You can warm-up
by surveying the chapter and generating a few insights and questions before beginning. Such a
warm-up will greatly improve your concentration, memory and learning.
If you’ve already looked at a chapter in your Salon Fundamentals textbook, this first page lineup in
your Study Guide will look familiar. You have a VALUE, a MAIN IDEA, a PLAN and OBJECTIVES
there as well. That’s because we want to make sure that you focus on these four important areas:
Its importance to you personally (VALUE)

Its major message (MAIN IDEA)
The way the ideas in the chapter will be developed (PLAN)
The expected outcomes of your learning (OBJECTIVES)
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MINDFRAME 2: NAMING
Once you’ve seen the big picture, your MINDFRAME

shifts. You begin NAMING what you are coming to
know, putting it into your own words, arranging the
material in a form that makes sense to you.
Some years ago, Dr. Walter Paulk, from Cornell

University, developed an excellent system of note-
taking. This second MINDFRAME is modeled on
his system and is called SmartNotesTM. Look at a
sample page of SmartNotes. What do you see? Take
a moment to identify how these pages are built and
how many ways they offer clues for your learning.
The top of each SmartNotes page identifies the

Chapter name, the Section—the main topic for
SmartNotes and the corresponding page numbers
in the textbook to consult for additional information.
Accustom yourself right away to referring to those pages in the text whenever you have questions or
want clarification. That simple practice will deepen your learning and save you time. Instead of searching
aimlessly for answers, you will know right where to go. Notice also that the Sections correspond to the
main divisions of the PLAN and that the smaller note sections reflect the OBJECTIVES.
The rest of the page is divided into two columns. Key terms and ideas are listed in the smaller left
column. They are presented in an order that you can use eventually to tell a story about what you are
learning. “Story” in this sense does not mean necessarily the “Once upon a time” variety. Instead story
means any narrative or organized way of presenting the material that will make sense to you and help
you recall it at will.
Here are recommendations for using these pages:
Glossary at the end of your Study Guide for terms that you may need as a quick review.
How exactly do you fill in the right-hand column of your SmartNotes using the prompts in the left
column? We would like to encourage you to use short phrases, pictures, cartoon-like doodles, symbols
or even questions to generate your own definitions and descriptions. Include only the most essential
information—in small places, only key words; use pictures or phrases in larger spaces. The spaces
have been designed according to the relative importance of the ideas in the text. Many students already
have wonderful spatial intelligence. The design of your Study Guide encourages you to put that spatial
vii

intelligence to work learning the content you are studying. If you need additional note space, a blank
SmartNotes template page will be included in your teacher’s Support Materials. You or your teacher
can duplicate that page whenever necessary.
Your notes do not need to make sense to anyone but yourself. If they help you learn and remember
this material, they are indeed SmartNotes because they’re helping to make you smarter! By translating
the ideas of the chapter into your own words and images, you are actively processing the material.
You are making sense of what you are learning. You are actually rewriting your textbook in ways
that make sense to you. The only thing that is not recommended is that you copy answers word
for word from your textbook. Copying answers in someone else’s words usually makes them more
difficult to remember.
SmartNotes contain a running total of all you are learning about a particular idea. Simply completing
this section guarantees that you are on the right track to learning the most important ideas.
SmartNotes also provide a ready-made personal outline for connecting important ideas and building
references you will need to deepen your understanding of the material to be learned.
MINDFRAME 3: CONNECTING
Successfully NAMING what you

are learning lays the foundation for
making connections of all kinds. Your
CONNECTING skill rapidly increases
your ability to learn and retain what you
learn. Sometimes in your Study Guide,
CONNECTING activities have been inserted
within the SmartNotes. Other times they
have been placed after your SmartNotes.
The most creative brains are always seeking
novelty. For that reason, you will see many
different kinds of activities included as
connectors. Our hope is that you enjoy
them all!
One excellent way for your brain to make

connections is by building Thinking Maps.
Thinking Maps create pictures of what you
know using shapes, patterns, words, doodles, and connections of all kinds. Once again your spatial
intelligence has a chance to shine. Thinking Maps make your thoughts visible so that you can think
about them in different ways. They promote discussion and help you explore specific topics in creative
and organized ways. You can use them as ‘roadmaps’ to deeper understanding. Because they tap into
your ability to create relationships among the concepts you are learning, Thinking Maps are powerful
memory joggers. Once you can picture how words and ideas fit together, you will remember them
more easily.
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Thinking Maps appeal to the creative side of your intellect as well as to your spatial intelligence.
For this reason, they are usually enjoyable for students who are entering a very creative profession.
These maps of colors, pictures and symbols, when coupled with words, create powerful associations
in your brain that will ensure better understanding and recall.
You’re probably wondering: How do I make a Thinking Map?
First… Start with a topic and circle it in the center of your paper. In your Study Guide, you’ll
notice that the easy part has been done for you.
Then… Add branches to hold key subtopics. Gather subtopics from your memory, your
SmartNotes, the PLAN or from the Jump Start Box of terms and ideas placed for you
on each Thinking Map page. Branches can also be categories such as who, what, where,
when, how or why.
Next… Use the words in the Jump Start Box to explore all the possible links you can create. If
you have questions about any words, you may also refer to the Glossary that has been
included at the end of your Study Guide.
Finally… Share and compare. Let others see your map and gain ideas and connections from you.
Add to your map realizations you have while looking at someone else’s map. Shared
knowledge makes each person better.
As you follow and intermingle these steps, make sure that you personalize your map with your
style. Use more than two colors. Doodle. Vary size and shape for effect. Be creative. Your map
can continue to grow in extent and interrelationships. You can always add more insights as you
discover them. There is no single, correct way to build a Thinking Map. In fact, each Thinking Map
you may make for this Study Guide will probably be different from the others. You are not making
carbon copies. You are creating original images of your growing understanding of a topic.
MINDFRAME 4: SELF-CHECKING
The connections you are making need to stand

up to scrutiny, your own first of all. They need to
be challenged for accuracy and depth. In the past,
you may have regarded that as a job of a teacher or
outsider. No longer. That’s what your own brain
does for you during SELF-CHECKING. Your brain
actually doubles back on itself and asks questions:
how well am I relating to this new material? Do I
know it well enough to advance to the next step in
my education and professional development? The more skilled you become at SELF-CHECKING,
the more prepared you will be to learn the rest of the information in the chapter. It offers a
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diagnostic check midway through a chapter to validate and reinforce to yourself that you really are
learning, that much of what you need to know is already in place. SELF-CHECKING allows you to tell
yourself you’re doing fine, to give yourself a pat on the back.
It is also a quick reminder to go back and pick up anything you missed along the way. The better a
student you become, the more you will self-check automatically. You will know that before you move
forward you need to pause and check your location. You pause to pay attention to certain areas of
the text you might ordinarily skip. Remember what we said earlier about ways of learning you avoid?
Your natural learning style tends to skip what it considers unpleasant. SELF-CHECKING cues your
brain about possible gaps that may exist and gives you time to fill those gaps with new learning.
In this Study Guide, your SELF-CHECKING

opportunity takes the form of The Challenge.
You are encouraged to review your Study
Guide before completing The Challenge. The
questions represent the most basic ideas in
the chapter. You should expect yourself to get
at least 80% of these answers correct before
you continue on with your work in the rest
of the Study Guide. If you find The Challenge
questions too difficult, take time to return to
your textbook and your SmartNotes and re-learn
the material. You may also wish to review with
someone else or approach your teacher for extra
help and suggestions.
How do you know exactly which answers you have correct? Following every Challenge is a Memory
Box, a self-monitoring activity designed to provide you with immediate feedback about your progress.
Study the sample on the previous page. First you use the page references to look up the answers in
your textbook. Then check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect ones. Next,
using the Know Chart, record the correct answers in the I Know column. Correct the incorrect
answers and record the corrected response in the I Need to Study column. In this way, you can
monitor your progress and clearly determine what you need to study to become more successful.
MINDFRAME 5: APPLYING
Here is your long-awaited chance to put your

knowledge into action. Many of the finest
students feel at their best when they are actually
doing something. After all, you have the goal of
being a skin care specialist because you sense
a personal talent for doing creative work with
clients and their skin care needs. There are
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many different activities in the APPLYING sections of your Study Guide. Three of these activities are
Talking Points, Show You Know and the Rubrics.
SmartNotes and Thinking Maps give you lots to talk about with others. In fact, you really don’t ‘own’
what you learn unless you can talk about it. Part of your reputation will rest on your ability to talk
clearly and confidently with your clients. We want you to graduate with that ability and not have to
scramble to develop it after you leave school. That’s why we created the Talking Points part of your
Guide to encourage you to talk about what you know and how you know it. Talking about your ideas is
a great way to discover your comfort level with the information. It is another concrete way to monitor
your progress and build your skills.
In order to refine your communication skills, you need practice in a non-threatening environment. In
your Study Guide, each Talking Point is placed next to a miniature ‘card,’ representing an index card.
On it you can jot down your key points. You may choose to transfer some Talking Points to real cards
and use the cards to role play actual conversations. These practice conversations can be shared with a
friend, a parent, classmate or anyone who will listen. The goal of the activity is to learn to explain and
communicate your ideas with poise and confidence.
Many chapters have a Show You Know project designed to give you the opportunity to be creative and
expressive. These activities will reinforce to you that you really do understand and can apply what you
are learning. If you devote some time and energy to them, you will begin to realize how smart you
really are.
Each Show You Know is matched to specific professional guidelines in the esthetics industry.
By completing each one, you will gain valuable exposure to our professional ideals and have fun
demonstrating that you can apply what you are learning.
In all the practical chapters, your central way of APPLYING what you learn will be through practicing
the procedures for that skill. Each procedure has its own evaluation form called a RUBRIC. The
word RUBRIC translates “something written in red” from the Latin word for red or red chalk. It
means simply a set of standardized directions. Why do you think important directions might be
written in red?
In your Study Guide, a RUBRIC is a self-assessment tool that will help you gauge your level of
performance. It is designed to compare your skill and technique to industry standards. On the
following page is a sample of a RUBRIC. Look at the page and see what you can learn immediately
about how RUBRICS are set up. You see under the directions the name of the procedure you will be
practicing. Then you see a bulleted list of steps under “Preparation,” “Procedure” and “Completion.”
Each bulleted item is followed by three purple boxes, Levels 1, 2 and 3. For each RUBRIC form you
complete, you will be asked to check for each item your level of accomplishment at that time.
Salon Fundamentals™ Esthetics xi

RUBRIC
This rubric is designed to compare your skill to industry expectations. Indicate your
present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. Your teacher will
direct you in the completion of this rubric.
Rubric Assessment
Industry Standard – to meet entry level proficiency, industry standards require that you:
Teacher
Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 To Improve, I Need To: Assessment
PREPARATION
PROCEDURE
COMPLETION
Total = Addition of all Teacher Assessment Boxes
Percentage = Student Score Divided by 81 (Highest Possible Score) Percentage %
Here’s how you will know one level from another:
Level 1 means you’re still “In Progress.”

You complete the task with assistance and/or prompting.
You complete the task with inconsistent quality.
You perform the task with several errors evident in technique.
You describe the technique with vague understanding.
Level 2 means you’re “Getting Better.”

You complete the task alone.
You complete the task approaching the industry standard.
You perform the task with occasional errors evident in technique.
You describe the technique with prompting.
Level 3 means you’ve reached “Entry-Level Proficiency” for the beginning professional.
You complete the task alone.
You complete the task and meet the industry standard described in the text.
You perform the task with very few errors evident in technique.
You communicate and reflect upon the technique to others.
You complete the entire procedure in accordance with required timing.
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Next to the boxes is a line on which you can jot down some area in which you wish to improve.
Finally, when you are ready, you can ask your teacher to complete a RUBRIC form for you. The
teacher will assess your level of competence and place a 1, 2 or 3 in each “Teacher Assessment” box,
total your score and determine your percentage for that procedure.
As you use the RUBRIC, remember that some tasks will be easier for you than others. On these tasks
you will achieve “Entry-Level Proficiency” sooner. For more difficult tasks, your RUBRIC – no matter
in what color you write it – will remind you of the areas in which you need to practice your technique.
MINDFRAME 6: SELF-TESTING
The Salon Fundamentals Esthetics™ Study Guide is devoted to taking the mystery and fear out of
tests for students. That’s why SELF-TESTING is so important. If you practice enough by testing
yourself, your actual licensure exam will not seem as threatening. Our aim is to have you prepared,
competent and confident from the time you walk into the examining room through the rest of your
professional life.
The activity designed for SELF-TESTING is called a Brain Conditioner. The Brain Conditioner is a
test-event designed to simulate your certification test. Why would we put you through something
like this? Isn’t one test at the end bad enough? Well, guess what. Practice really does make perfect.
If you practice the actual test-event, you will learn many valuable things like:
energy at theend of the test as you had the beginning
Although the Brain Conditioner is an actual test-event, it is also a learning activity. For that reason,
you should use your Memory Box just as you did after The Challenge to gather information you still
need to review a bit more.
MINDFRAME 7: JOURNALING
True learning is a deeply personal experience. It engages the person you are and begins your
transformation into the person you wish to become. As this growth is happening in you, you
need some kind of record of what is going on with your feelings as well as in your thinking.
SmartNotes and other activities here in the Study Guide give you records of your thinking. This final
MINDFRAME, JOURNALING, offers the opportunity to honor what you are feeling and realizing
and questioning at levels even deeper than thought.
xiii

At the end of each chapter, it is important to
jot down your feelings about what you have
just studied. Especially important to note are
things that surprised you, learning tasks that
you found difficult and how you dealt with
those difficulties. Also helpful to record are
suggestions you received from friends or others
that might help you enjoy learning more. You
will be surprised how your comments change
as you go through the chapters of your Salon
Fundamentals textbook, giving your energy to
each MINDFRAME in its turn.
Now you have an overview of this entire book, your book, the place where the knowledge of the
experts takes on personal meaning. Everyone’s textbook is identical. Everyone’s Study Guide, if done
correctly, will be unique. Your mind will frame the material to suit your specific learning preferences
and needs. You have just received the ‘guided tour’ of seven of the most common MINDFRAMES
you’ll be using throughout this Study Guide. In addition, pages 453-490 hold a quick reference
Glossary of important terms from your textbook.
You can make your Study Guide a real part of your professional journey by adding to it and improving
it every day. If you do, new possibilities for creativity and opportunity will appear in your work. As you
improve your Study Guide, you improve yourself. It is designed to be a developing picture, a portfolio,
of what you can do and your commitment to your future. Before you begin ask yourself: Am I ready to
step into a fascinating future? Let’s go...
Best wishes,
The staff of Salon Fundamentals Esthetics
xiv

PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT
VALUE MAIN IDEA
Everything you do to improve yourself Just as you cannot separate your mind
personally adds to your status as a and your body, you cannot separate your
professional skin care specialist. In other personal and professional well-being.
words, personal self-improvement is the Health, attitude, communication skills
first step toward career success! and relationships are personal, as well as
professional, essentials.
Courtesy of Design Forum.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Healthy Mind n Rest and Relaxation n Identify the importance of proper

and Body rest, exercise, stress management,
n Exercise
nutrition, hygiene and ergonomics
n Stress Management
and how they relate to performance on
n Nutrition the job.
n Hygiene
n Ergonomics
Effective n Nonverbal n List the two main types of

Communication Communication communication and define the way
n Verbal each of them projects your personal
Communication and professional image.
Purposeful n Personality n Describe how personality, teamwork

Relationships n Teamwork and a professional code of ethics
enhance or detract from your personal
n Ethics
and professional image.
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smartNOTES
Chapter Section Page
Chapter 1 Personal Development Healthy Mind and Body Pages 3-4
M 1
Identify the importance of proper rest, exercise, stress management, nutrition,
hygiene and ergonomics and how they relate to performance on the job
n Rest and Relaxation Prevents poor health and disease

Adequate Sleep Most people need 6 to 8 hours of sleep
Inadequate Sleep n Slows reaction time

n Lowers IQ
n Disrupts normal body functions (hormone levels, heart rate, blood pressure)
n Weakens immune system
n Causes low energy and headaches
n Contributes to poor job performance
n Drains the body of vitality
n Affects body’s production of serotonin (involved in normal perception and
emotional control)
n Exercise Helps develop and sustain muscle tone – priming body to work better,
look better and feel better
Helps stimulate the blood circulation and metabolism
Exercise Routine Well-balanced exercise routine includes three disciplines:

1. Cardiorespiratory fitness: Aerobic activity (brisk walking, running, cycling,
rowing or skating) strengthens the heart and lungs
n Improves blood circulation
n Lowers blood pressure
n Builds endurance – boosts immune system
n Reduces stress
“Getting away from it all”
helps maintain a healthy mind
and body.
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Exercise Routine Three disciplines of a well-balanced exercise routine, cont’d.:

2. Strength training: Use free weights, weight machines or elastic
bands to build muscle mass, increase muscle tone, lose weight
and strengthen entire muscular system
Weight-bearing exercises (yoga, running, brisk walking) also effective
3. Flexibility training: May include yoga or tai-chi as well as more
basic stretches; useful for:
n Increasing range of motion
n Improving posture
n Alleviating muscle spasms
n Decreasing stress and maintaining agility
n Stress Round out exercise program by exercising your mind

Management
Stress Tense, “tied-up-in-knots” feeling
Either good or bad
Positive influence compels to action or results in awareness to help
solve a problem
Negative influence results in feelings of frustration, anger,
helplessness or depression
Managing stress means learning to bring moderation to all that you do
Anger and depression harmfully affect and weaken heart, arteries, glands
Angry thoughts cause increased heart rate
Worry and fear are bad for health
Reading can be relaxing and learning stimulates brain activity
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n Nutrition “You are what you eat.”

Nutritional habits influence health and well-being
Conversion of raw materials (carbohydrates, fats and proteins) into energy
Calories used by body to:
n Regulate body temperature

n Build and re-build structures
n Move and think
RDA Guidelines RDA = Recommended Dietary Allowances (appropriate nutrient intakes)

n Calories: 2,300 - 3,000 for men and 1,900 - 2,200 for women
n Carbohydrates 45-65% (complex)
n Protein: 15-35%
n Fat: 30%
Calories Few people eat what is best for them

More than 50% of the population in the United States is overweight
Problem of obesity is lack of exercise
“Left over” calories are converted to fat
Carbohydrates Serve as major energy source

Whole grains, vegetables, fruits, legumes, nuts and seeds
45-65% of daily nutrient intake
Increase energy levels, calm you, provide fiber for regulating digestion
Proteins Body’s building blocks

Skin, hair, nails, brain, muscle and connective tissue consist primarily
of protein; 10-35% of daily nutrient intake (low in cholesterol & saturated
fats); lean meats, poultry, fish and low or no-fat dairy products
Plant proteins – grains, legumes, nuts and seeds
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Chapter 1 Personal Development Healthy Mind and Body Page 7
Fats Source of concentrated energy

30% of daily nutrient intake (unsaturated)
Essential fatty acids (EFAs) include: fatty fish, cod liver oil, flaxseed oil,
beans, nuts, seeds, black currant and evening primrose
Other Essential Body is 80% water – need for water is 2nd only to its need for oxygen
Nutrients Clear, colorless, odorless, tasteless liquid essential for living things
Water Primary functions:

n Regulates body temperature
n Transports nutrients and hormones
n Flushes out toxins via the kidneys Mayo Clinic
recommends 12
cups per day for
men and 9 cups
Lack of sufficient water can cause:
for women.
n Decrease in mental performance This total includes
water from all
n Aches and pains sources, even
n Dry, sallow skin food!
n Irritability
n Fatigue
Vitamins and Organic substances essential for normal growth and activity
Minerals Daily multivitamin may be recommended
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n Hygiene Applied science that deals with healthful living
PERSONAL HYGIENE PUBLIC HYGIENE
n Individual system for maintaining n Helps promote and preserve

cleanliness and health
health of community
n Cleanliness is primary n 4 primary health hazards:
n Establish and maintain a personal - Impure air from poor ventilation
hygiene routine - Inadequate lighting
- Improper disinfection practice
n All bodies produce odors - Improper storage or use of food
n Professionals are licensed to

Halitosis = bad breath
protect and serve the public
Brush teeth 2-3 times per day
Body Odor Prevent offensive body odors by:

Prevention n Bathing regularly using soap and water
n Applying deodorant
n Avoiding excessive use of cologne or perfume
n Wearing clothing only a few times before washing
n Using talc or foot deodorant
n Considering the food intake and state of health related to breath
n Maintaining good oral hygiene to prevent bad breath
Image Skin care business is a service business and you must focus on
your image daily; close attention to personal grooming and professional
appearance is a MUST; adds to your self-esteem and raises your image
in client’s eyes; your image is a direct representation of you and the
professional image desired
Hair Care Clean and healthy hair is beautiful

Must be groomed neatly
If your hair touches your face when you tilt
Guideline
your head forward, it should be pulled back.
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Skin Care Healthy, glowing skin is dependent on good nutrition, exercise and rest
Poor eating habits and lack of nutrition result in a dull complexion
Your own beautiful skin is your best advertisement
Makeup Keep makeup application minimal

Artfully applied makeup enhances facial features and communicates your
tasteful expertise
Hands Keep smooth, soft, immaculately clean and well-manicured

Use protective crème after washing hands
Artificial nails are impractical and hinder good service
Nails should be attractively manicured and short – free of all polish
Feet Practice good posture and wear properly fitted, low,

broad-heeled shoes that give support and balance
To keep feet at their best – schedule regular

pedicures, thoroughly dry feet after bathing,
treat bunions, corns or ingrown toenails with
podiatrist (foot doctor or chiropodist)
Clothing Clothing should be freshly washed or cleaned and pressed

Wear loose fitting clothing to allow flexible movement
Jewelry Keep necklaces, earrings and watches plain and simple – avoid bracelets and
rings; most schools and salons have dress code to follow
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POSTURE DOs POSTURE DON’Ts

Posture
n Use height adjustments on n Slump over client to reach or
equipment massage, instead bend forward
n Keep your head up, chin level, at waist holding shoulders
shoulders relaxed but straight straight
and abdomen flat when n Bend at waist when lifting
standing objects – bend at knees to
n Keep feet and knees together, lower whole body
feet on the floor when sitting, n Place more weight on one leg
and sit squarely on the seat of than the other – distribute
the chair weight evenly
n Use a mirror to note any
posture defects you may have
and work to correct them
Correct posture reduces fatigue and helps internal organs function properly
Good posture and moving properly will prevent muscle strain and
potential injury, reduce physical fatigue and present an attractive image
Standing with feet about shoulder-width apart and knees slightly bent
enables you to distribute weight evenly, carry weight on the balls of the feet
and shift weight easily
n Ergonomics Science that studies the relationship between people and their work
environment; performing facial treatments from a seated position is better
for long-term health of the body
Prevent health challenges by improved posture, better work habits and
proper equipment
Neck and Back Spine runs from top of neck to lower back and is made of many bones called
vertebrae
Between each pair of vertebrae are joints and discs that give neck and
back flexibility
Discs are flexible because they have jelly-like substance inside
Prolonged bending or twisting can cause pain in neck, back, arms or legs
Ruptured disc means jelly from inside disc leaks out
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Foot and Leg Standing for long periods results in ankle and feet swelling (risk for varicose
veins); foot pressure may develop calluses or skin irritation at the pressure point
Hand and Wrist Muscles in forearm that move the hand and fingers are connected by tendons
Tendonitis occurs when tendons become inflamed
Carpal Tunnel Syndrome occurs when nerve in the carpal tunnel is pinched
by swollen tendons; both caused by bending wrist, pinching or gripping with
force or repeated motion
Shoulder Shoulders have muscles and tendons

Strained shoulder causes muscle aches, tendonitis or bursitis
Preventative
Measures
Neck and Back 3 Bend at hips instead of waist
3 Position facial chair and facial machines close
3 Bend knees slightly and pull in abdominal muscles when reaching up
3 Stand on foot stool when reaching
3 Keep back erect and bend at knees when lifting heavy objects
3 Keep back straight and abdominal muscles pulled in while seated
3 Sit with legs uncrossed and feet flat on the floor
3 Stand with feet parallel to hips; avoid standing in high-heeled shoes
3 Move the entire body when turning
3 Perform stretching exercises during breaks
3 Consult your doctor if you suffer back pain
Feet and Legs 3 Avoid sitting or standing for long periods of time
3 Wear comfortable, rubber-soled shoes with good arch support
3 Avoid high-heeled shoes
3 Wear support hose to reduce leg swelling
3 Use shock-absorbing inserts in shoes
3 Adjust facial stool and facial bed up or down for comfort
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Preventative Measures 3 Position facial chair and machines close to you to avoid
Hands and Wrists unnecessary reaching
3 Position self next to client so that you don’t have to raise your arms
3 Use arm strength, not your hands and wrists, during massage; relax hands
3 Bend your wrists as little as possible when using your hands
3 Perform regular hand exercises
3 Keep wrists straight while sleeping
Shoulders 3 Position facial chair and machines close to you to avoid unnecessary reaching
3 Position self next to client so you don’t have to raise your arms
3 Tilt the client’s head to a position that is comfortable for you
3 Be conscious not to tense shoulders while performing massage
3 Bend at the waist keeping back erect when lifting heavy objects
What are the first 5 things you notice What are the first 5 impressions someone
when meeting someone for the first time? meeting you for the first time might have?
1. 1.
2. 2.
3. 3.
4. 4.
5. 5.
LEA R N I N G C O NN E CT I ON Image Points

COLOR Each color in a costume equals 1 point.
This quick and easy
SHOES Plain, simple shoes are 1 point each; add extra points for “eye-arresting” details on shoes,
exercise is designed to
including open toes, open heels, bows, large buckles, chains, rope or multi-colored shoes
be a fun, interactive
way to determine an STOCKINGS 1 point only if they are a color different from natural leg color.
uncluttered, understated JEWELRY All jewelry, except wedding rings, counts as 1 point each, including watches, chains, bracelets,
appearance. etc. If jewelry is multi-colored, count each color as a point.
An “eye-arresting” Two earrings equal 1 point if they are simple.
feature is considered a GLASSES 1 point, if simple.
point. Fashion experts HANDBAGS 1 point, if simple. Add extra points for chains, buckles, extra colors, etc.
have established 14 NAIL POLISH 1 point. Add an extra point if toenails have polish.
points or less as the BUTTONS 1 point each if they are not the same color as garment.
median to be considered ACCESSORIES 1 point for bows, ruffles, contrasting belts, scarves, etc.
well-dressed. Calculate 1 point for red hair.
HAIR
your points using the
MAKEUP 1 point for eyeliner with more than 3 shades of eye shadow.
chart shown here to see
where you score in Total Points
relation to 14.
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Chapter 1 Personal Development Effective Communication Pages 15-17
M 2
List the two main types of communication, and define the way each of
them projects your personal and professional image
Communication Exchange of ideas, thoughts or feelings with someone

Can be transmitted through systems such as telephone, e-mail or fax
Your primary responsibility is to use knowledge and skills to make clients look
and feel their best
Esthetician requires 100% face-to-face and involves touch
n Nonverbal Body language – messages exchanged without speaking

Communication 3 Appearance 3 Poise 3 Facial Expression
3 Gestures 3 Posture 3 Touch
3 Eye Contact 3 Silence
Smile is universal sign of approval

Standing up straight, shoulders squared and head held high – self-confidence
Bowed shoulders and sloping body posture – uncertainty and low
self-confidence
Eye contact is universal sign of acknowledgement and attention
Leaning forward conveys interest; backward lean says doubtful or uninterested
Firmness and energy of handshake show dependability and confidence
n Verbal Voice and Tone – how you speak is as important as what you say
Communication Listener tunes out an irritating voice
Level, tone, inflection and rate of speech influence meaning of communication
Grammar Choice of words used in verbal interaction impacts listener’s understanding

Poor grammar (double negatives and slang) gives unclear messages
Polish language skills by enlisting help from teacher and friends or
tape recorders
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Two-Way Ability to understand and interpret requests
Communication First, encourage clients to give information so you can understand

their desires; second, repeat back to them what they have expressed as their
needs or concerns; client two-way communication – ask questions that require
more than yes or no reply
Listen to what client says…don’t just hear what is said…then follow through
1. PRESENT A PLEASANT GREETING

Steps to Becoming a Better Communicator 2. USE TACT
3. EXPRESS YOUR IDEAS CLEARLY
4. DEFINE THE PURPOSE OF YOUR COMMUNICATION
5. KNOW THE IMPORTANCE OF YOUR IDEAS
6. BE AWARE OF YOUR ENVIRONMENT
7. WATCH YOUR OVERTONES
8. CONSULT WITH OTHERS WHEN NECESSARY
Active/Reflective Active Listening: Reflective Listening:

Listening n Involves the whole body n Involves reporting what you
heard
n Ears, eyes and intellect are
all tuned in n Act of repeating out loud
what you heard and
n Gives nonverbal and verbal
thought helps you remember
signs of listening
n Provides a way to confirm
n Shows attentive posture;
what was actually said
nodding in agreement;
good eye contact; positive
attitude
Successful Everything you say and do shows you are a professional; avoid controversial
Communication topics and gossip; handle complaints calmly and judiciously
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Successful What causes communication to break down?

Communication (For possible answers direct students to pages 15-20.)
LEA R N I N G C O N N E CT I ON
Listening Cue
Listening is one of the easiest skills to perform, but the most difficult for most people to remember to do.
Sometimes, when first building a skill or habit, it is good to have a ‘cue’ that can serve as a reminder. For
this Learning Connection on listening, complete the cue card below and place it close to you as you work
to serve as a reminder.
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M
3
n
3 Describe how personality, teamwork and a professional code of ethics
enhance or detract from your personal and professional image
Personality Complex set of characteristics that distinguishes individuals from others
Winning Personality Traits

Considerate Well-Mannered
Positive Controlled
Humorous Flexible
Friendly Lively
Attitude “Positive” or “negative” feeling or emotion toward something or someone

Like habits, learned and can be changed
Essential Elements of Purposeful Relationship:

1. Positive attitude
2. Sound work habits
3. Attendance and punctuality
4. Connection with client
Habits “Learned” behavior reinforced by environment

Unattractive habits limit success and image
n Teamwork Establish rapport with each person

Consideration and cooperation are key for teamwork
n Ethics Rules that determine right and wrong conduct concerning relationships
Golden Rule: “Do unto others as you would have them do unto you.”
Professional ethics – proper conduct in relationships with employer,
co-workers, clients
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Professional Code of Ethics
Code of Ethics H Show respect for the feelings and rights of others
H Be fair and courteous to your co-workers and clients
H Be eager to learn new methods and techniques
H Represent yourself, your services and your products honestly to the public
H Set a positive example of good conduct and good behavior
H Be loyal to your employer and co-workers
H Keep your word and fulfill your obligations
H Practice only the highest standards of infection control as directed by law
H Believe in and be proud of your profession
Before you can care for others, you must first care for yourself
Have you known someone that has made a personality change?

How did that person achieve the desired change?
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The Lipstick
LE A R N I N G C ON N E C T I ON
Personality Indicator
Use this fun Lipstick Personality Indicator to see if the lipstick you use
is a true indicator of your personality.
1. Slant-like original shape… 5. Rounded top to a point…

n Follower n Gives orders easily
n Avoids attention n Exaggerates sometimes
n Self-conscious n Needs people around
n Likes a schedule n A ‘doer’
2. Rounded, smooth tip… 6. Flat top…

n Relaxed n High morals
n Even-tempered n Needs approval
n Steady n Careful about appearances
n Likeable n Very dependable
3. Sharp-angled tip… 7. Flat top, concave…

n Outgoing n Makes friends easily
n Likes attention n Inquisitive
n Argumentative n Complex
n Opinionated n Exciting
4. Sharp-angled, curved tip… 8. Sharp angles both sides…

n Creative n Curious
n Enthusiastic n Loves life
n Falls in love easily n Faithful
n Helpful n Big ego
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In many cases in order to fully understand a topic, it is important to know its
cause, what the effect of that cause is and what the solution could be. A C.E.S
(Cause – Effect – Solution) Chart is designed to help you collect information for
C.E.S. CHART your review of these three important components. Complete the chart below by
filling in the missing information. An example is shown in the first row.
CAUSE EFFECT SOLUTION
3 hours of sleep for 4 nights in a Lack of energy, slowed reaction time, Get 6 to 8 hours of sleep per night
row headaches
Failure to have a regular exercise Weak circulation, low muscle tone Set up a well-balanced exercise
program and agility, muscle spasms, high routine including cardiorespiratory,
blood pressure strength training and flexibility
Anger and depression Heart rate is increased, life out of Bring moderation and balance to
control, negative coping patterns your life
Female calorie count of 3,000 Weight gain Change daily calorie count to
calories per day 1,900 to 2,200 on a regular basis
Drinks one 8-ounce glass of water Decreased mental performance, Drink 12 cups of water per day
per day and weighs 150 pounds aches, pains, dry, sallow skin, for man and 9 cups per day for
irritability and fatigue woman
Wears soiled clothes three days in Offends clients with unpleasant odors Wear clothes only a few times and
a row without laundering, but adds then launder; avoid excessive use
extra fragrance to compensate of cologne or perfume
Hair is long and straight; Oily hair hangs forward and covers Develop a daily hair care program;
shampooed once a week; gets oily face while esthetician works pull hair back while working
quickly
Wears excessive makeup Makeup runs down face in dark Wear minimal makeup; choose
streaks while esthetician works neutral colors in light applications
Wears long, artificial nails Scratches a client and, in the process, Avoid artificial nails; keep nail
loses an artificial nail length no longer than top of the
finger
Wears pointed-toe, uncomfortable Unpleasant attitude and aching back Wear properly fitted, low, broad-
shoes during work hours heeled shoes
Wears tight-fitting slacks, low-cut, Image leaves a negative impression Dress like a professional taking
scoop neck tops with long dangling with client, which causes a lack of body shape into consideration;
earrings that jingle when esthetician loyalty opt for simplicity
walks
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Match the term from Column A with the
corresponding description in Column B by
MATCHING
placing the letter of the term in the box
provided in front of the description.
Column A Column B
A. Habits Appropriate nutrient intakes established by

E U.S. Government
B. Vertebrae Swollen veins

H
C. Tendonitis Condition that numbs and weakens hand and can

M eventually affect career and ability to work
D. Ruptured disc “Learned” behaviors reinforced through events in your

A environment
E. RDA Bend your knees slightly and pull in your abdominal

L muscles when you have to reach up
F. When lifting objects Bones of the back

B
G. Ergonomics Located between each pair of vertebrae in the neck and

O back to offer flexibility
H. Varicose veins Pain in the neck, back, arms or legs caused from
D leaking jelly
I. To prevent shoulder problems Inflamed tendons

C
J. To prevent hand and wrist problems Being truthful without being offensive
N
K. To prevent foot and leg problems Science used to study the relationship between people
G and their work environment
L. Pelvic tilt Tilt the client’s head to a position that is comfortable

I for you
M. Carpal Tunnel Syndrome Use strength of arms during massage, not hands or
J wrists
N. Tact Keep back erect and bend at the knees, using muscles
F of the thighs
O. Joints and discs Wear comfortable, rubber-soled shoes with good arch
K support
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THE CHALLENGE
Now it’s time to see how 1. TRUE FALSE Ten to twelve hours of sleep per night are recommended to avoid fatigue.
well you know your new Six to eight hours of sleep per night are recommended to avoid fatigue.
material. First answer
these questions. Then use 2. TRUE FALSE Staying out late can have a detrimental effect on job performance.
the Memory Box that
follows to check yourself.
Look up each answer on 3. Another name for a podiatrist, or foot doctor, is chiropodist.
the corresponding page in
the Salon Fundamentals™ 4. The term RDA stands for:
Esthetics textbook. Check a. required dairy allotment
“got it” for all correct b. required dietary allowances
c. requested daily allowances
answers and “not yet” for
d. recommended dietary allowances
all incorrect responses.
Using the “Know Chart,” 5. What is the RDA of proper daily portions for carbohydrates (complex)?
record all of your correct a. 45 – 65 percent
b. 70 – 75 percent
responses in the “I
c. 80 – 85 percent
Know” column. After d. 90 – 95 percent
correcting incorrect
6. An excellent source for essential fatty acids is:
answers, record all of your
a. milk
corrected responses in the
b. apples
“I Need to Study” column. c. fatty fish
That way you know exactly d. wheat bread
what to review before
7. The science that studies relationships between people and their work environment:
continuing in this Guide. a. ecology
b. workology
Directions: Identify c. ergoscience
whether questions 1 and d. ergonomics
2 are True or False by
8. The outward reflection of inner feelings, thoughts, attitudes and values is called:
circling TRUE or FALSE. a. habit
You can earn an extra b. ethics
point for each false c. chameleon
statement you d. personality
appropriately correct. 9. Which of the following statements identifies the “Golden Rule”?
Question 3 requires you to a. do unto others before they do unto you
write in an answer in the b. do unto others like they did to you before
blank provided. c. do unto other like you plan to treat them in the future
Answers to the questions d. do unto others as you would have them do unto you
found in 4 through 10 10. The study of human conduct is known as:
may be selected by a. professional loyalty
circling a, b, c or d below b. professional ethics
c. professional dealings
each statement to indicate
d. professional precautions
your choice.
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MEMORY BOX KNOW CHART
1. page 3 o got it
I know... I need to study...
o not yet
2. page 3 o got it
o not yet
3. page 10 o got it
o not yet
4. page 5 o got it
o not yet
5. page 5 o got it
o not yet
6. page 7 o got it
o not yet
7. page 11 o got it
o not yet
8. page 21 o got it
o not yet
9. page 24 o got it
o not yet
10. page 24 o got it

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW

Experts tell us that it helps to have reminders posted around us to help keep our attitudes in a positive state. In
addition it is helpful to remind people to be considerate, to work safely or to do things a certain way. Create three
signs that could be posted around the school to focus staff and students’ attention on the three main parts of
Chapter 1, Personal Development. Poster 1 should be about a healthy mind and body, poster 2 about effective
communication and poster 3 about purposeful relationships.
Poster 1 Poster 2 Poster 3
“The real art of

Early to bed and Relationships
conversation is not
Early to rise… only to say the right are the
thing at the right glue
Makes the place, but to leave that holds
professional unsaid the wrong
thing at the
team members
healthy, wealthy
tempting moment.” together.
and wise.
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Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the
TALKING POINTS important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed
next to each box and practice talking about your ideas.
1. TACTFULLY TALKING
Esthetician to client: “I can’t believe how cracked and dry- Review the statements made by an esthetician
looking your skin is. It makes you look twenty years older.” to a client and then on the lines provided offer a
better, more tactful way of making the same
Your correction: “It appears to me that your skin might have a statement. Compare and discuss your
tendency to be more dry than normal or oily. Is that correct?”
corrections with a partner.
Esthetician to client: “Your eyebrows have almost grown
together! How long has it been since you were here last?”
Your correction: “It is so good to see you again, Mrs. Johnson.

It seems like you were just here, but your file tells me it was
six weeks ago. Doesn’t time fly?”
2. FIVE CHANGES
Stand face-to-face with a partner and look each
1. 1. other over for a period of about 10 seconds.
Then stand back-to-back and each of you make
2. 2. five changes about your image. Now, turn face
to face again and see if you can list each other’s
five changes. Do this exercise one more time
3. 3.
to see how many of the new changes you can
notice. You can use the space to the left to write
4. 4. down your changes each time.
5. 5.
3. EFFECTIVE LISTENING SKILLS

Practice your listening skills by sitting back to
A B back with a partner as each of you, in the box
to the left labeled A, draws a design using only
3 circles, 2 triangles, 1 rectangle and 1 square.
Each of you will have your own unique drawing.
Remaining back-to-back, one partner will
describe his/her drawing as the other partner
listens and tries to replicate the drawing in the
box labeled B. Only the partner describing the
drawing is allowed to talk. Switch tasks and see
how close both of you come to replication and
mastering communication.
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knowledge grid
Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of
Chapter 1, Personal Development. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence
and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.
KNOW Identify the three major energy-producing nutrients and describe their importance to
personal health.
Almost all foods contain a combination of carbohydrates, proteins and fats used to produce energy that regulates
body temperature, builds and re-builds structures and moves its parts during exercise and activities. Carbohydrates
– increase energy levels; provide fiber to regulate digestion. Proteins – body’s building blocks; skin, hair, nails, brain,
muscle and connective tissue are primarily protein. Fats – source of concentrated energy; produce hormones and
protect against heart disease, cancer, autoimmune diseases and skin diseases.
COMPREHEND Summarize the negative effects of exhaustion and lack of rest.
Lack of adequate sleep contributes to low energy and headaches, not to mention poor performance. In addition,
a lack of sleep contributes to slowing reaction time, lowers IQ, disrupts normal body functions and weakens the
immune system. The body is drained of its vitality with a lack of rest.
APPLY Give several examples of nonverbal communication (body language).
Examples of nonverbal communication could include: smiling, nodding, shaking hands, arms crossed over the
chest, leaning forward, slouching, frowning, winking, thumbs up and placing a hand over the heart.
ANALYZE Distinguish between public and personal hygiene.
Public hygiene is cleanliness for the community, while personal hygiene is cleanliness for the individual.
SYNTHESIZE In your own words, generate a simple code of ethics for skin care professionals.
As skin care professionals, we will:

n Practice the Golden Rule n Strive to earn and maintain good reputations
n Show impartiality to clients and co-workers n Display loyalty to our employers and co-workers
n Attend educational sessions to update theory and skills n Follow all rules and regulations
n Refrain from making extravagant claims or promises n Show pride in our profession
we cannot fulfill
EVALUATE Evaluate the ergonomic recommendations for improved posture, better work habits and
proper use of equipment listed in this chapter by selecting the most practical and useful
recommendation in each of the four areas discussed.
The 4 most practical and useful ergonomic recommendations include:
1. When lifting, keep your back erect and bend down at the knees 3. Position facial chairs and equipment close to you to
avoid reaching
2. Adjust the height of equipment to be more comfortable 4. Flex knees when standing
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
Multiple choice. Circle the correct answer.
1. Which of the following helps stimulate blood circulation in the body?

a. exercise
b. watching TV
c. listening to music
d. reading a good book
2. The process of converting raw materials in the form of carbohydrates, fats and
proteins into energy is known as:
a. exercise
b. nutrition
c. hygiene
d. ergonomics
3. The energy found in food is measured in:

a. degrees
b. calories
c. fat content
d. protein content
4. The energy in food can be stored in the body as:

a. fat
b. protein
c. minerals
d. carbohydrates
5. The applied science that deals with healthful living is:

a. physics
b. hygiene
c. philosophy
d. engineering
6. The practice of good ventilation, proper lighting, disinfection and storage of food to
promote and preserve the health of the community is referred to as:
a. oral hygiene
b. client hygiene
c. public hygiene
d. personal hygiene
7. Bathing regularly with soap, using deodorant and washing clothes when soiled are examples of:
a. oral hygiene
b. public hygiene
c. personal hygiene
d. excessive grooming
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Brain Conditioners
8. Halitosis means:
a. bad breath
b. poor posture
c. poor nutrition
d. poor public hygiene
9. Which type of shoes are recommended to reduce the fatigue from standing all day?
a. tennis shoes
b. high-heeled shoes
c. low, broad-heeled shoes
d. old, comfortable, stretched-out shoes
10. A foot doctor is called a:

a. podiatrist
b. pediatrician
c. orthodontist
d. psychologist
11. When sitting in a chair, it is important to:

a. keep feet apart
b. keep knees apart
c. sit forward in chair
d. sit squarely in chair
12. Facial expressions, posture and poise are examples of:

a. hygiene
b. personality
c. non-hygienic communication
d. nonverbal communication
13. The skill that requires learning to be truthful and to say the proper thing to a person
without being offensive is called:
a. tact
b. attitude
c. consulting
d. personality
14. Which of the following statements about communication is true?

a. know the importance of your ideas
b. be prepared to talk about yourself a lot
c. be prepared to talk about politics with your client
d. don’t think before you talk because it slows down the conversation
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Brain Conditioners
15. When having a conversation with a client, it is recommended that you focus your conversation on:
a. the weather
b. other clients
c. famous personalities
d. your client’s lifestyle and skin care needs
16. The act of repeating out loud what you heard, processed inside your head and reported is referred to as:
a. active listening
b. reflective listening
c. whole body listening
d. nonverbal communication
17. The outward reflection of inner feelings, thoughts, attitude and values is known as:
a. humor
b. posture
c. hygiene
d. personality
18. A feeling or emotion toward something or someone is referred to as:

a. ethics
b. habits
c. attitude
d. philosophy
19. Which of the following statements is true about attitudes?

a. attitudes cannot be changed
b. attitudes are easy to change
c. attitudes, like habits, can be changed
d. people are born with all the attitudes they will have through life
20. Proper conduct in relationships with employers, co-workers and clients is referred to as:
a. public hygiene
b. personal image
c. personal hygiene
d. professional ethics
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Brain Conditioners
Write Your Own Ticket! For numbers 21, 22, and 23, write your own questions and answer them. Your
questions can be true/false, multiple choice or fill-in-the-blank. The only parameter is that your questions
cannot already be found on this test. Earn one point each for writing and correctly answering your questions.
21 . Q: ________________________________________________________
A: ________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
22. Q: ________________________________________________________
A: ________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
23. Q: ________________________________________________________
A: ________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
BONUS QUESTION!
Question 24 is the ultimate question. To earn two points, design a question for your class. If you stump the
class and no one can answer the question within an agreed upon time (between you and the teacher), you
earn a BONUS OF FIVE ADDITIONAL POINTS!
24. Q: ________________________________________________________
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Brain Conditioners
ESSAY QUESTION
A maximum of five additional points is possible if you answer one of the following essay questions.
25 a. In your judgment, what are the three most important points made in this section of your text
about communication? Please support your selections with a brief description of why you made
the choices you did.
I feel the three most important points made in the communication section of this text are:
1. Body language or nonverbal communication is important because gestures and
actions speak more loudly than words.
2. How you speak may influence the meaning of what you say. Words say one thing,
but tone, level, inflection and rate may say another.
3. The choice of words is vital to the art of conversation. Poor grammar can detract
from what you are trying to say.
25 b. Explain what the Golden Rule means to you and list at least two ways it played a role in your
life this week.
To me the Golden Rule means that I will treat others like I would want them to treat me.
This week, I helped someone on the street that had dropped a bookbag and purse. She had
items all over the street. I stopped and helped her because if I would have been in her
shoes, I would have appreciated the assistance. The other example I will offer is one of the
students received a very high grade on a test this week. No one was talking to her after
class, acting like it was her fault they did poorly and she did well. I asked her to go to lunch
with me and on the way to lunch I told her that I really respected how well she did on the
exam. I could tell she appreciated my comments. I would have liked to have heard praise if
I had done that well!
25 c. In your opinion, what are two difficult things you might need to talk to a client about that would
require the use of tact? Please list support for your decisions.
There might be a time in the future where I would need to tell a client I had made a mistake.
I know this would be difficult because the client might become worried that something
would happen due to my error. It is difficult for me to admit I am wrong, so I know I will
need to practice tactful ways to say this.
I think another area that would require a tactful approach is if a client were habitually late
and the employer or manager told me I would need to talk to her about it. This would be
difficult for me because I know how difficult it is to run on time and the client might become
upset with me. I would need to handle this in a very tactful manner.
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Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page
FINAL REVIEW number for any incorrect answer. On the lines to the right, jot down topics
that you still need to review.
1. page 4
2. page 5
3. page 5 11. page 13

4. page 6
12. page 15
5. page 7
13. page 18
6. page 7
14. page 18
7. page 8
15. page 19
8. page 8
16. page 19
9. page 10
17. page 21
10. page 10
18. page 21
19. page 22
20. page 24
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Personal Development
Experts agree that it is

important to summarize
your feelings and reactions
about what you are learning.
Note especially things that
surprised you, things you
found difficult to learn,
suggestions and ideas
you received from friends
that helped make learning
this chapter easier and
more enjoyable.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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2
PROFESSIONAL
DEVELOPMENT
VALUE MAIN IDEA
An ongoing commitment to A professional is someone who

professional development will commits to high standards of
help you excel in your career, performance and continually seeks
become a valued asset to your to improve. Professionals are rarely
clients and colleagues and help satisfied with their present level of
you achieve financial rewards knowledge, skill or expertise. In this
and personal growth. chapter on professional development,
you will examine trends in the esthetics
industry, practice job search skills and
explore techniques for promoting
yourself and your services. Learning to
be a professional may start in school
but continues throughout your lifetime.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Job Quest n Market Trends n Survey trends in the beauty industry and
n Goal Setting document recent changes that have a
n Finding a Job positive impact upon the demand for skin
care services.
n Establish a process for setting short- and
long-range professional goals.
n Refine job search preparation skills to
include resumé and cover letter
development, job interviewing skills, work
environment evaluations and familiarity
with performance review strategies.
Career Building n Networking n Give examples of strategies that can be used

n Building a Clientele to help you introduce yourself to other
professionals within the esthetics industry.
n Selling
n Describe strategies for building professional
n Lifelong Learning
relationships with clients and staff.
n Summarize techniques for successfully
promoting services and recommending
products to clientele.
n Formulate a lifelong learning plan to continue
career and professional development.
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smartNOTES
Chapter 2 Professional Development Job Quest Pages 29-31
Mn
1
Market Trends
Statistics
Survey trends in the beauty industry and document recent changes
that have a positive impact upon the demand for skin care services
More people born between the late 1940s and early 1960s – now majority
of clients
Stay Informed Ability to provide meaningful and current information about products will
benefit you and your clients
What do you think your clients in the future will be like? What will be their demographics? Will they be young,
middle age, older, female, male, business worker, factory worker, athletic, academic, single, married, etc.? The list
goes on and on. List 10 descriptive words that might describe your clients of the future.
1. 6.
2. 7.
Look into the Future 3. 8.
4. 9.
5. 10.
M n
2 Establish a process for setting short- and long-range professional goals
Goal Setting Goals help focus and define career path

4-Step Process for 1. Establish long-range goal (in 5 years)
Determining Goals
n Write it down
n Find someone who can discuss obstacles
n Make a commitment and dedicate actions to goal
2. Determine short-range goals (in the next year)
n Decide on immediate activities you can undertake
3. Create a plan to achieve goals
n Create set of objectives and tasks
n Consider budget and ways to financially support the plan
n Have an alternate plan
4. Revisit
Define goals; plan ahead; keep an open mind; continue to learn
Successful Business
Strategies
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Marketing Trend or Fad?
Sometimes fads are confused with trends. A fad is short-lived and generally applies to a particular segment of people. Trends
are longer lasting, apply to the majority of people within many varied groups and have more impact on business. Look at the
list of items below and place ‘T’ next to an item you feel represents a trend and place ‘F’ next to the item you feel is a fad.
F Large handbags F Short skirts F Dangling earrings

F Body piercing T Mini-vans T Saving money
T Aromatherapy services T Acupuncture T Seaweed wraps
smartNOTES
3 M n
3
Refine job search preparation skills to include resumé and cover letter
development, job interviewing skills, work environment evaluations and
familiarity with performance review strategies
Finding a Job
Methods n Talk to employed estheticians n Check classified sections
n Talk to distributor sales consultants n Refer to school’s bulletin board
n Call or visit skin care centers n Mail out resumé with cover letter
n Investigate Web sites n Talk with reps at national trade shows
n Visit local dermatology and plastic n Check out opportunities with skin
surgery centers care manufacturers or publications
Resumé One- or, two- page outline about yourself
Gives employer opportunity to review qualifications at a glance
Describes attributes in a brief, concise manner
Resumé Components
Personal data Special awards
Educational background References
Additional training Interests
Previous employment
Special skill
Resumé Guidelines Maintain current, complete, error-free resumé throughout career

Type resumé neatly and check it thoroughly for errors; photo optional
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smartNOTES
Resumé Design
Features n Color: white, pale shades of beige, blue or gray
n Same paper for resumé, cover letter and envelope
n Medium-weight paper stock (24-26 lb.)
n Legible font (non-decorative, 10-11 pt.)
n Simple and conservative
Acceptable colors for resumé papers White

Pale Blue
Creme/Beige
Pale Gray
Cover Letters n Necessary companion to resumé

n Introduces you to prospective employer
n Offers brief summary of why you would like employment
n Provides brief description of qualities
Cover Letter Checklist Neatly typed Greeting

Standard business-letter format Body of the letter
Date Closing
Your address Signature
Employer’s address
Address letter and resumé to owner or manager

Large corporation, send to human resources department
Guidelines for 1. Determine specific contact name (manager or owner)

Writing a 2. Get to the point quickly
Cover Letter 3. Research the company
4. Show initiative and willingness to contribute
5. Make a call to follow up on your letter
6. Thank potential employers for their time and consideration
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smartNOTES
Job Interview Stay calm and be yourself When interviewing:

Take a moment to think before answering n Make eye contact
Properly prepare: role-play with friends or family n Smile

n Shake hands
Visualize interview’s success
n Be positive
n Listen
Personal Appearance Basis of first impression; sets tone for interview n Ask questions
n Should be neat and impeccably dressed

n Jewelry should be small and kept to a minimum
n Avoid open-toed shoes, bright colors, flashy styles or wild hairdos
n Conservative and properly applied makeup
n Hands well manicured
n Hair styled simply to flatter face and physical features
Application Process Bring pen and paper to interview

Application includes:
Where and when you graduated
Date you completed State Board of Esthetics Examination
Additional educational training
References are often required
Punctuality Perfect way to promote yourself and demonstrate commitment

Allow extra time for delays; arrive on time
Travel to the location before the interview date
Confirmation phone call a day ahead
Technical and Interviewer may determine level of technical skills by:

Communication n Asking you to demonstrate by performing service on model
Skills n Contacting your school to get an appraisal
n Contacting previous employers as references
Be as calm and professional during interview and demo as you would
be with a client
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smartNOTES
Personal Qualities n Sincerity and Honesty
n Enthusiasm and Charisma
n Dependability and Loyalty
n Good Work Ethic and Punctuality
n Flexibility and Team Spirit
n Organization and Efficiency
Work Environments Evaluate workplace in terms of advantages and disadvantages

n Physical surroundings
n Emotional “vibe”
n Ask owner/manager questions about prospective job
Job Benefits Salary may not be most important issue
n Salary and/or commission n Retirement plan

Components of a
Total Benefit n Sales commission n Travel opportunities
Package
n Paid holidays, vacations, bonuses n Advancement opportunities
n Number of sick days n Educational seminars
n Insurance benefits n Ongoing educational programs
Your New Job Information sources:

n General orientation
n Employee handbook
n Apprentice with experienced staff
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smartNOTES
n Performance Review Occurs at regular intervals

Gives suggestions to capitalize on strengths
Offers constructive feedback in areas you can improve
If YOU were the employer, what would be the most important question you would ask a
potential employee interviewing for a job in your organization?
LEA R N I N G C O NN E CT I ON Trust Your Instinct
There are times when you just need to trust your best instinct
or intuition. Read the questions below that an employer might
ask you during an interview. Trust your instinct and draw a line
through two of the questions that would indicate to your
instinctive side that this might not be the employer for you.
1. What amount of time would you need to wax a lower leg area?
2. What is your religious background?
3. What would you say is your strongest professional characteristic

in dealing with people?
4. Do you live with someone of the same sex?
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smartNOTES
Chapter 2 Professional Development Career Building Pages 44-48
M n
4 Give examples of strategies that can be used to help you introduce yourself
to other professionals within the esthetics industry
Networking Developing relationships with individuals who can put you in contact with
customers or employers
Important to maintain professional relationships with fellow students or peers
Client Relationships Customer service is personal attention to the needs of the client and a concern
for their well-being
Treat each client as a very important person
Learn what the client wishes to achieve and develop a plan that fits
client’s lifestyle
Staff Relationships Successful businesses depend on strong “team” approach
Communication Express your ideas, thoughts and feelings to create open, professional relationship
Sharing Knowledge Share your knowledge and techniques with your team members
Saves time and helps you grow and develop as a professional
Common Goals Each team member sets goals for a day, month and year; when personal &
business goals aim for same outcomes, teamwork comes naturally
Helping Others Take initiative to help co-workers; they will help you in return
Togetherness and friendship create a bond within the team
n
M 5 Describe strategies for building professional relationships with clients and staff
Building a Clientele
Marketing Creating awareness of a product or service, usually striking an emotional chord
in the buyer
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smartNOTES
Word-of-Mouth Most effective way to build clientele; improves reputation and income opportunities
Advertising/Referrals
Business Cards If employer doesn’t supply cards, supply them yourself

Keep cards on hand at all times; give cards to current and potential clients
Rebooking Ask clients to make future appointment before they leave

Emphasize importance of regular skin care
Promotional Write name on flyers, newsletters and postcards

Literature
Complete menu of services you provide
Guest Appearances May try offering your services as a guest speaker or demonstrator
Position you as an expert and help develop clientele
Correspondence Send thank you cards after first appointment

Call new clients after first visit to follow up
Send reminder notes before appointments
Send birthday cards with gift certificates
Your Personal Touch Spend time sharing a tip or suggesting new products to clients
Which client-building strategy do you feel will be most effective for you?
LEA R N I N G C O N NE CT I ON Design A Card
Your business card in the future will be a valuable asset

to you. Use this space to design a card that will help all
the people you meet remember who you are and where
you work. Be creative, yet tasteful. Compare your card
with others and see if there is any additional information
you should add.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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smartNOTES
M n
6
Selling
Summarize techniques for successfully promoting services
and recommending products to clientele
Ask questions
Observe and listen

Steps for Successful
Identify/create the need
Selling
Communicate while performing service
Educate
Demonstrate
Recommend products
Retailing Recommending and providing the best products for client purchase
Benefits skin care specialist as well as client
Learn as much as possible about products you will sell
Persuading Clients 1. Trust abilities, services, credibility and professionalism

through Retailing 2. Depend on products that you believe to be of the finest quality
3. Understand importance of commitment to home care for results
Professional Clients usually listen to and accept recommendations

Recommendation Successful skin care specialists effectively prescribe services along with a
regimen of appropriate products
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smartNOTES
Knowledge
& Confidence Self-confidence is the foundation of good salesmanship
Thoroughly evaluate key ingredients and benefits of all products
Stay informed of latest developments:

n Research product lines
n Try products yourself
Use every opportunity to gain more experience in recommending products
by practicing with friends and family members
Professional Products Products available only through special retail outlets or doctor’s office
Learn as much as possible about a product and try it before recommending it
Products are demonstrated for use and effectiveness
Features and Benefits Features include size of container, aroma or specific ingredient
Benefits are what the product will do to enhance or improve the skin
Customize products to the needs of the client for success in recommendation

n Have client fill out a consultation form
n Ask questions to determine your client’s specific needs
Involve Clients After recommending, allow client to sample products

To effectively promote, demonstrate product and give take-home sample
Demonstrate product that addresses client’s need
Describe product’s features and benefits

WHEN SAMPLING:
Give clear and concise directions
Allow clients to sample products they are hesitant to buy
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smartNOTES
Suggest New Products As new products become available, think about clients who may
benefit from them
Cross-selling Technique used to build on a sale by recommending complementary products
Closing the Sale Opportunity to ask for client commitment

Helps increase earnings and strengthens relationship with client
If client has an objection to price, review important points you have already made
Written Instructions Write on back of product brochures regarding product use

Written instructions promote the sale of products to:
n Reinforce professionalism of services
n Help clients remember products suggested for use
n Clarify product use for clients
n Remind clients to do treatments
n Enable esthetician to select products for clients to purchase
n Help receptionist with retail recommendations before clients leave
n Offer referral opportunities
Phone Calls Follow-up calls provide the opportunity to:

Thank clients
Ask clients how skin is responding
Answer any questions
Confirm next scheduled appointment
Extend a gesture of concern
Record Keeping Essential for evaluating a client’s reactions to a product

Client consultation cards should be regularly updated
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smartNOTES
Motivating Buyers
Easiest buyer motivation to recognize
NEED Make buyer aware of products that can benefit them
Created by stressing importance of home care
People who want to look their best make retail purchases

DESIRE
Clients with specific skin concerns require little convincing
Client believes he or she is making intelligent purchase
PROFIT Do not prejudge clients’ ability to afford items or desire for products
Convince clients of the benefits of the products
Making a spur-of-the-moment decision to buy something

IMPULSE BUYING
Accounts for 45 – 65% of all purchases
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smartNOTES
Chapter 2 Professional Development Career Building Page 58
Has an open mind; takes a chance on new products

The Ready Buyer
with no hesitation
Esthetician needs to Keep buyer aware of any new products
The Logical Buyer Wants all the facts about product and thinks carefully about buying
Esthetician needs to Explain what a product will do and how to use it

Supply with literature
Leave alone for a few moments to make decision
The Emotional Buyer Bases purchase more on personal reasons than facts
Often impulsive, spontaneous person; reacts to color or aroma
Esthetician needs to Describe how product will improve appearance and demo for client
Make sure this buyer understands benefits
The Bargain Buyer Wants to save money – concentrates on price more than quality
Esthetician needs to Keep aware of any sale items or promotions

Avoid pushing this client
The Stubborn Buyer Puts up struggle and enjoys debating with you
Esthetician needs to Offer all facts and describe results

Send product literature home or offer trial size
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smartNOTES
Sales Promotions Serve as important tools for short- and long-term benefits for your business
n Cost-effective
n Attract new clients right away
n Help reduce overstocked inventories
n Announce new services and products
GIFT-WITH-PURCHASE HOLIDAY & SEASONAL

PROMOTIONS
Receive free or discounted
product or service with Dozens of holidays throughout the
full purchase of treatment year are great times to
run promotions
REFERRAL PROMOTIONS CO-OP PROMOTIONS

If client refers a friend who Team up with non-competitive
comes in for a treatment, client businesses to combine
receives discount promotional efforts
Monthly Promotions Special package kits allow clients to try new items or present products as gifts
Gives shopper a reason to look around and check out what is available
Effective Displays Create a retail display to make space pay

Display shelves should be attractive, functional and direct attention to products
and services
Selling The “art of persuasion” or the “technique of recommendation”
Stock and Stock Stock – total merchandise kept on supply

Inventory for future use
Stock inventory – detailed, itemized lists,
report or record of items
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smartNOTES
Retail Display Organize Stock

Guidelines n Place products neatly and attractively
n Display products by category
n Position top-selling items at eye level
n Use island shelving
n Rotate and rearrange product
n Place latest shipment at back
n Place displays in interesting areas
Ensure Quality Control

n Keep product on edge of shelves
n Dust products daily; clean thoroughly weekly
n Provide well-lit area
n Maintain well-stocked display
Create Promotional Displays

n Use product cards below each product
n Display literature on product near retail area
Maintain Inventory Control

n Use inventory control form to monitor sales
n Ensure that ordering is timely and controlled
n Keep sufficient quantity on shelves at all times
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smartNOTES
Retail Display Learn from Display Experts

Guidelines n Attract a client’s eye
n View what other retailers are doing
Price the Merchandise

n Price products individually
n Display price where clients can easily find it
n Create barcode system or detailed price list for reception area
What invites you to buy skin care products? List at least three reasons why you have purchased
particular products in the past. Sample answers may include:
1. PRICE 2. ATTRACTIVE PACKAGING 3. QUALITY
L E AR N I N G C O N N E CT I ON Create A Shelf Talker
SKIN CARE
CARE
SKIN CARE
SKIN CARE
SKIN CARE
SKIN CARE
SKIN CARE
SKIN CARE
SKIN CARE
SKIN
A shelf talker is a product identification card. Design a shelf talker for the products displayed above.
A blank shelf talker has been provided for your promotional message.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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smartNOTES
M 7
Formulate a lifelong learning plan to continue career
and professional development
n Lifelong Learning Making a commitment to grow your business

and your profession
Why is it important More results-oriented approach to esthetics

to stay current? Gain credibility with clients
Increasing competition
Seminars and Classes Excellent source of information on new trends and developments
Consider going back to college at some point
Trade Shows Encounter wide array of products, services and resources

Essential to career
Current Periodicals Daily, weekly and monthly newspapers or magazines
Local Newspaper Reports on scientific discoveries, mergers or developments in big cosmetic

companies, info about consumer trends
Fashion & Beauty New trends in treatments, new product releases

Magazines Most valuable info in professional periodicals published by industry
Comparison
Shopping Visit competitors to
compare their business
practices to your own
Engage in a two-sided
conversation
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smartNOTES
Internet Resources Excellent way to find info of all sorts:

n Discover trade organizations
n Cosmetics company promotions
n Get idea of what larger salons and spas are doing to market
n Latest scientific developments and advancements
n Research various skin care products
n Shop
n Get tips
n Membership for various trade organizations
Path to Success No limit to your success if you are willing to invest the time and energy
Are you familiar with the major periodicals published for the skin care industry? List the names of
three informative publications.
1. Skin, Inc. 2. Dermascope 3. les Nouvelles Esthetique
LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Lifelong Learning
It is wise for you to plan ahead for your educational needs. Answer the questions below to
help you allocate your time.
1. How many hours of education will your state require in order to renew your license?
2. How many hours of education will a professional organization you might join require?
3. How many hours of education do you think an employer might require you to attend?
4. How many hours of education beyond the required do you feel you might want to attend?
Total Hours of Education
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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MATCHING
Column A Column B
One- or two-page outline that lists your educational history,
A. Professional C work experience, additional skills and achievements
Involves filling out forms for employment before the

B. Long-range goal E interview process begins
Arriving on time for an interview

C. Resumé F
The amount of money earned, insurance, paid sick or

D. Cover letter I vacation time and educational reimbursements
Someone who commits to higher standards of

E. Application process A performance and continually seeks to improve
This buyer puts up a struggle and enjoys debating

F. Punctuality O with you
An open-minded person that tends to take chances on

G. Personal qualities K new products without hesitation
The “personality piece” that introduces you to your

H. Work environment D prospective employer
This buyer bases purchases more on personal reasons

I. Job benefits M than facts
Identifies where you want your career to be in five years

J. Performance review B
The physical surroundings and emotional “vibe” from

K. Ready buyer H employees currently employed
Sincerity and honesty, enthusiasm and charisma,

L. Logical buyer G dependability and loyalty, good work ethics and punctuality,
flexibility and team spirit, organization and efficiency
This person wants to save money and concentrates more

M. Emotional buyer N on price than quality
This buyer wants to know all the facts about a product

N. Bargain buyer L and thinks carefully before buying
An opportunity to discuss your job performance with

O. Stubborn buyer J your manager
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1. FIVE QUESTIONS
1. Tell me about yourself. Write 5 questions you would
ask someone during an
2. How long does it take you to do a facial? interview if you were an
employer.
3. What product lines are you most familiar with?
4. What are your strengths and weaknesses?
5. What attracts you to this business?
2. FIVE QUESTIONS—NOTES
Ask a partner the five
1. questions you just created in
step 1 of the Talking Points.
2. Play the role of the employer
as you ask your questions.
3. Take notes as your partner
responds.
4.
Then reverse roles as you
answer the five questions
5.
your partner created.
3. FIVE QUESTIONS—FEEDBACK
Partner’s Strong Points: Areas of Improvement:
Offer encouragement to your
partner by identifying what
you felt were strong points in
the responses given to your
questions. Also, identify
areas of improvement your
partner could make in the
responses given.
Your Strong Points: Areas of Improvement:

Ask your partner to do the
same for you by identifying
your strong points and
areas of improvement for
the responses you gave
to questions.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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RETAIL DISPLAY GUIDELINES
Organize Stock Maintain Inventory
Organize all products neatly and Use an inventory control form so

attractively. you can monitor sales.
REMEMBER:
Display the products by category. Ensure that ordering of products is
timely and controlled.
Put top-selling products and sizes Keep sufficient quantity of stock on

at eye level. the shelves at all times.
Use imagination!
Keep all displays
updated and
interesting. Display product using island
shelving. Use “end caps”.
In the boxes provided
on these two pages,
summarize the mate- Learn from Display Experts
rial found on page 61 of
Chapter 2 in your text.
Rotate and rearrange the product
to gain attention, prevent fading View what other professional
and ensure freshness. retailers are doing.
Place the latest shipment of

product in the back of display. Attract a client’s eye.
Place displays in interesting areas.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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RETAIL DISPLAY GUIDELINES
Price the Merchandise Create Promotional Displays
Price all products individually. Use product identification cards.
Display price where clients can Display literature on each item

easily see it. near the shelves so the clients have
additional info.
Create a barcode system or price

list for easy checkout.
Ensure Quality Control
Keep products on edge of the

shelves.
REMEMBER:
Dust products daily and clean

shelves weekly.
Light the retail display area well.

Selling is an
opportunity waiting
to happen.
Keep the display well-stocked with

a variety of products.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Each of the following ads is designed to target one of
WHAT’S IN AN AD? the specific buyer types. Place the letter of the ad on
the blank next to the corresponding buyer type.
Eye Shadow
Lipstick Ready Buyer E
Logical Buyer C
Pure
Luxury! Silky, impact color
Eyes look incredible Emotional Buyer A
Pure
Color!
Bargain Buyer D
Rich glossy, quick drying and long wearing!
See front desk for product Stubborn Buyer B

information or trial size
A B
5th
5th Anniversary
Skin Cream
Anniversary BRAND NEW!
Sale
$
Sale
Elevates skin's potential for repair
Defuses the look of lines and

wrinkles
Creates even-toned and perfectly

Save
Save25%
25% to
ALL
ALL
75%on
to 75%
MERCHANDISE!
MERCHANDISE!
on
SKI
CARE
N
moisturized skin
TRY
A Purchase 3 products,
SAMPLE!!! get the 4th FREE! New product created using
revolutionary beauty technology
C D E
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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THE CHALLENGE
Now it’s time to see how
1. TRUE FALSE Market trends help you focus and define what path
well you know your new your career will take.
these questions. Then use Goals help you focus and define what path your career will take.
the Memory Box that
follows to check yourself. 2. TRUE FALSE The opportunity to discuss job performance with the
Look up each answer on
manager is called performance review.
the Salon Fundamentals™ 3. Marketing means creating an awareness of a product or service, usually
Esthetics textbook. Check striking an emotional chord.
“got it” for all correct
answers and “not yet” for 4. Building on a sale by recommending a product that complements another product
all incorrect responses. the client has already purchased is known as cross-selling .
Using the “Know Chart,” 5. Which of the following is essential for evaluating a client’s reaction to a
record all of your cor- product and progression through a treatment?
a. organizing stock
rect responses in the “I b. effective displays
Know” column. After c. pricing merchandise
correcting incorrect d. good record keeping
answers, record all of your 6. Which of the following percents of all purchases stem from impulse buying?
corrected responses in the a. 15-20%
b. 30-40%
“I Need to Study” column. c. 45-65%
That way you know exactly d. 70-75%
what to review before 7. Which buyer type has an open mind and tends to take chances on new
continuing in this Guide. products without hesitation?
a. ready buyer
Directions: Identify wheth- b. logical buyer
c. stubborn buyer
er questions 1 and
d. emotional buyer
8. Which of the following sales promotions offers clients a free gift or service
circling TRUE or FALSE.
when they purchase a treatment or product at full price?
You can earn an extra a. co-op promotions
point for each false b. gift-with-purchase
statement you
c. referral programs
d. holiday and seasonal
appropriately correct.
Question 3 requires you
9. Which of the following sales promotions offer your existing clientele a
discount if they refer a friend who actually comes in for a treatment?
to write in an answer a. co-op promotion
in the blank provided. b. gift-with-purchase
Answers to the questions c. referral programs
d. holiday and seasonal
found in 4 through 10
may be selected by 10. The practice of visiting competitors to compare their business practices
to your own is called:
circling a, b, c or d below a. co-op promotions
each statement to indicate b. referral programs
your choice. c. monthly promotions
d. comparison shopping
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
53
MEMORY BOX
SFE_TSG_Ch02.indd 53 6/21/12 10:06 AM
1. page 31 o got it I know... I need to study...

o not yet
2. page 42-43 o got it
o not yet
3. page 48 o got it
o not yet
4. page 54 o got it
o not yet
5. page 56 o got it
o not yet
6. page 57 o got it
o not yet
7. page 58 o got it
o not yet
8. page 59 o got it
o not yet
9. page 59 o got it
o not yet
o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW

The most common errors in resumé development include spelling, spacing and missing information. On the
next page a sample resumé has been provided for you to show you know the appropriate grammar, punctuation
and general information found on a resumé. Challenge yourself to find the 12 errors on the resumé.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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1. Missing phone number
2. “skin care center to
pursue my professional goals.”
3. “Waited”
4. “1999”
5. Place worked
232 South Winchester
6. Change to black ink Denver, CO 55959
Fax 232-222-4646
7. I E-mail clrichter@mail.com
1
8. Spelling
9. Choppy sentences
2
Objective I would like to work in a salon.
10. “with”
Education 1999-2000 ABC Beauty College St. Louis, MO
11. Line spacing Degree in cosmetology with emphasis in customer
service
12. Zip code n 3.8 GPA in College
Work experience 1998-Present Applebee’s St. Louis, MO

Waitress
n Escorted customers to their seats
3 n Waitd on tables
1995-199 4 5 Denver, CO
BAD RESUME Checker
n Worked the cash register
n Employee of the month for December, 1997
The following resumé Awards received I have received many awards. I had a 3.8 GPA while at
6
college graduating at the top of my class, while working for Hy-Vee,
contains a minimum I was named employee of the month.
of 12 errors in spelling, 8 9
Special skills
7
i am a good comunicator and a very social person. I feel I
would help build your business with my good social skills. I work very well with other
grammar, formatting people and can carry on conversations all ages.
and/or style. Can you References Janell Fareely

3233 South Branch
10
find all 12? Make any
corrections necessary in
11 Denver, CO 55898
Matty Jacobse
order to create a quality 999 Park Avenue

St. Louis, MO
resumé.
12
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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knowledge grid
Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding
of Chapter 2, Professional Development. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build
self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.
KNOW Locate the section in your textbook on finding a job and list at least three methods you
might use when interviewing for a future position.
1. Talk to estheticians 5. Canvass the area I want to work 9. Network
2. Check the classifieds 6. Mail out resumes with a cover letter 10. Go online
3. Talk to distributor 7. Visit dermatology/plastic surgery centers
4. Refer to school job postings 8. Check out opportunities with manufacturers
COMPREHEND Explain how you would evaluate a typical work environment.

Management style Pricing of services Type of clientele Employee benefits
I would consider: Job responsibilities Size of staff Business goals Advertising plan
Products & services Home care products Education plan Policies & procedures
Working conditions Client scheduling Salary structure Handling of complaints
APPLY Give examples of several strategies for building a clientele. Select the strategy that is
considered to be most effective and explain why.
Strategies for building a clientele include:
Word-of-mouth/referrals Business cards Rescheduling Personal touch
Promotional literature Guest appearances Correspondence
The most effective of the strategies for building clientele is word-of-mouth or referrals because satisfied clients will
recommend your services to their friends. Your expertise, your care with people and your willingness to teach all
help bring clients and their friends to you.
ANALYZE Specify the seven steps for successful selling.

The seven steps for successful selling include: ask questions, observe and listen, identify/create the need,
communicate while performing services, educate, demonstrate and recommend products.
SYNTHESIZE Design a promotional campaign that would attract all five buyer types.
Name of Campaign: All You Need Is…
To attract the ready buyer we will have signs posted throughout the skin care center… All You Need is…a fresh,
new product. For the logical buyer we will have signs and printed material that says All You Need to Know about
this product… For the emotional buyer we will have photos showing the result of the product. For the bargain
buyer we will have signs that say All You Need is money left in your wallet and offer 10% discount. For the stub-
born buyer we will have flyers and trial products to send home.
Justify why the following statement is true: “At no other time in history has a career in the
EVALUATE
field of esthetics been more attractive or lucrative than it is today.”
The reason that right now is the most attractive or lucrative time for a career in the field of esthetics is that there
is an increasing number of people desiring services, spurred by the high number of births from the late 1940s
through the early 1960s. These ‘baby boomers’ are at the age where skin care services are considered a necessity,
more than a luxury.
56
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. What helps you focus and defines what path your career will take?
a. a goal
b. a cover letter
c. a record book
d. a business card
2. Short-range goals identify where you would like your career to be in the next:
a. year
b. three years
c. seven years
d. twenty years
3. Creating a plan to achieve your goals includes:

a. establish alternate plans
b. considering your budget
c. creating a specific set of objectives and tasks
d. all of the above
4. An individual should maintain a current, thorough, error-free:

a. photo
b. resumé
c. objective
d. application
5. What colors are recommended for resumés?

a. blue or a shade of pink
b. red or pale shades of green or blue
c. yellow or pale shades of red or yellow
d. white or pale shades of beige, blue or gray
6. What font size do professional resumé writers recommend?

a. 4-5 pt. font
b. 7-8 pt. font
c. 10-11 pt. font
d. 15-17 pt. font
7. A necessary companion to the resumé is the:

a. internet
b. objective
c. application
d. cover letter
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Brain Conditioners
8. Which of the following is the basis upon which you create a first impression?
a. application
b. punctuality
c. personal qualities
d. personal appearance
9. What is the “personality piece” that introduces you to your prospective employer?
a. resumé
b. application
c. cover letter
d. performance review
10. Which of the following is a personal quality that might be evaluated in an interview?
a. age
b. honesty
c. religious beliefs
d. health conditions
11. Which of the following is probably the least important factor in deciding whether to accept a
position in a skin care center?
a. benefits
b. types of clientele
c. goals of the business
d. size of the skin care center
12. Salaries, sales commission and paid holidays are all examples of which of the following?
a. resumé
b. job benefits
c. retirement plan
d. insurance benefits
13. A program to familiarize the new employee with the work habits and standards of the skin care center
is called:
a. apprenticeship
b. general orientation
c. performance review
d. educational seminar
14. Which of the following is a discussion of job performance that occurs at regular
intervals with management?
a. referral
b. classified review
c. performance review
d. cultivating relationships
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Brain Conditioners
15. Which of the following is probably the most effective way to build clientele?
a. advertisement
b. word-of-mouth
c. business cards
d. guest appearances
16. Creating awareness of a product or service is called:

a. surveying
b. training
c. recruiting
d. marketing
17. Which of the following is the foundation of good salesmanship?

a. skill
b. knowledge
c. self-confidence
d. personal recommendation
18. Characteristics or specific ingredients of a skin care product are called its:
a. listing
b. benefits
c. features
d. character
19. Improvements a product will make to enhance the appearance or condition of a client’s skin
are called:
a. benefits
b. features
c. enhancers
d. characteristics
20. Which type of buyer wants to know all the facts about a product before buying it?
a. the ready buyer
b. the logical buyer
c. the bargain buyer
d. the emotional buyer
21. Which type of buyer bases purchases more on personal reasons than facts?
a. the ready buyer
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Brain Conditioners
22. A buyer that has an open mind and tends to take a chance on new products without hesitation
is known as:
a. the ready buyer
23. Which type of buyer wants to save money and concentrates more on price than quality?
a. the ready buyer
24. A buyer who puts up a struggle and enjoys debating with the salesperson is known as:
a. the logical buyer
b. the bargain buyer
c. the stubborn buyer
25. Which of the following is perhaps the easiest buyer motivation to recognize in the skin care center?
a. need
b. profit or gain
c. desire to look good
d. desire to keep up with current trends
Write Your Own Ticket!

26. Q:
For questions 26, 27, and 28,
write your own question and A:
answer it. Your question can
be true/false, multiple choice 27. Q:
or fill-in-the-blank. The only
parameter is that your A:
questions cannot already be
found on this test. Earn one 28. Q:
point each for writing your
way to success. A:
60
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Brain Conditioners
BONUS QUESTION!
Question 29 is the ultimate question. To earn two points, design a question for your class.
If you stump the class and no one can answer the question within an agreed upon time
(between you and the teacher), you earn a BONUS OF FIVE ADDITIONAL POINTS!
29. Q:
ESSAY QUESTION
A maximum of five additional points is possible if you answer one of the following
essay questions.
30a. In your judgment, what will be the most difficult aspect for you when finding a job?
I think deciding which skin care center I want to work in will be the most difficult aspect in
finding a job. There are so many opportunities right now it will require more time to make
comparisons to match my talent with the best place for me to work.
30b. Listed below in box A are the six selling strategies. Choose one selling strategy and list the
strengths in box B and weaknesses in box C.
A B. Selling Strategy – strengths C. Selling Strategy – weaknesses

Ask questions - Lets you know what the client Ask questions - The client may not know the
wants/needs. Makes sure you are giving your cli- correct information or understand the question
n Ask questions ent the correct product. asked. Communication between client and
professional is unclear.
Observe and listen - By watching your clients,
n Observe and you know what type of product they like. When Observe and listen - Observations may be
listen listening to your clients, you know exactly what incorrect and you may not listen to what the
they want. client wants.
n Identify and Identify and create the need - Helps present new Identify and create the need - Even though you
create the need products that the client will need. Promotes new introduce the product, the client may not want/
products/promotions. Makes your client want need the product.
more. Communicate while performing services - The
n Recommend
Communicate while performing services - Learn client may not hear the information clearly or
products what products your client wants/needs. Helps to understand the information.
form a more trusting relationship with your client. Recommend products - The clients may be
n Communicate Recommend products - Describes new products satisfied with their current products. New
while that your client may not be aware of. Promotes products are coming out all the time, and
performing sale of new products. you may not have had time to use them.
services Educate - If you describe the product and show Educate - With new products arriving, you may
how to use it, the client will understand and use not be able to keep up on new information.
n Educate the product more. Demonstrate - The clients may not be open to
Demonstrate - If you use the product on clients, new products or may be satisfied with their
n Demonstrate they can instantly see the results and can make an current products.
educated decision.
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30c. Offer 3 reasons to support why the word-of-mouth strategy is among the most effective methods
to build clientele.
1. People seek and believe the advice of their friends, family or business colleagues.
2. In many cases the person who is referring the client will offer a testimonial that
encourages and supports the potential client to visit the esthetician or skin care center.
3. Encouragement and support provide security to clients trying to decide where to go or
who to have perform their skin care needs.
Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any
FINAL REVIEW incorrect answer. On the lines to the right, jot down topics that you still need to review.
1. page 31 14. page 42
2. page 31 15. page 48
3. page 31 16. page 48
4. page 35 17. page 51
5. page 35 18. page 52
6. page 35 19 page 52
7. page 35 20. page 58
8. page 38 21. page 58
9. page 35 22. page 58
10. page 40 23. page 58
11. page 41 24. page 58
12. page 41 25. page 57
13. page 42
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Professional Development

about what you are
learning. Note especially
things that surprised you,
things you found difficult
to learn, suggestions and
ideas you received from
friends that helped make
learning this chapter easier
and more enjoyable.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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3
BUSINESS BASICS
VALUE MAIN IDEA
The more you know about the Starting, operating and building an
business aspects of a skin care efficient and profitable skin care center
center, the better prepared you are requires specialized knowledge and skills.
to take advantage of future career Learning the operational, financial and
opportunities. management needs of a skin care center
will improve your professional status
and prepare you for business ownership,
should you choose this career option.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Starting n Self-Appraisal n Describe the financial and legal

a Business essentials for starting a business.
n Finance
n Business Essentials
n Plans for a
Successful Skin
Care Center
Operating n Expenses and Income n List the skills required for any
a Business n Hiring employer:
- Paying taxes
n Skin Care Center
- Managing inventory and
Philosophy, Policies
setting prices
and Procedures
- Business administration
- Hiring and other
employee issues
- Advertising
- Public relations
- Promotion calendar
n Define advertising and promotion
techniques that will increase sales.
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smartNOTES
Chapter 3 Business Basics Starting a Business Pages 69-71
M 1 Describe the financial and legal essentials for starting a business
n Self-Appraisal Recognize skin care trends Exert self-control

Communicate with public Manage the finances
Accept suggestions Establish pricing
Generate business Set business goals
Skills can be learned through study, hard work and experience
n Finances Must have proof of good risk

Prepare business plan & personal financial statement to secure loan
Business Plan Central company document you and your employees use to make decisions
Business Plan Essentials

n Executive Summary
n Origin of Company
n Company Goals
n Market Potential
n Marketing Strategy
n Three- to Five-Year Financial Projection
n Exit Plan
Personal Financial Assets = property owned Liabilities = money owed

Statement
Net Worth = Assets – Liabilities (most banks loan 10%
of personal net worth)
Average 5-chair center costs $7,500 to $45,000
64
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smartNOTES
n Business Essentials
1. Sole Proprietorship 2. Partnership
Types of
Business Owned by 1 person in Owned by 2 people
Ownership complete control
Shared costs
Receives all profits
Written agreement
Responsible for all
debts and losses
3. Corporation 4. Franchise
Shareholders own License for operation

Income based on profits Operating agreement
Shareholders not liable
Expert Advice Any serious future skin care center owner will need the advice of
four key experts:
1. Accountant – explain types of business ownership & tax benefits and liabilities
2. Insurance Agent – risk management (if you can replace it – don’t insure it)
3. Lawyer – help with written agreements
4. Distributor – link between manufacturer and skin care center;
distributor sales consultant – link between distributor and skin care center
X
nPlans for a
Successful
Most important
Skin Care Center factor How many other Amount of money to
skin care centers in be spent on unique
Parking the area? needs
conditions,
high-traffic Obtain 10-year Plumbing,
activity, rental fees forecast electrical, etc.
per sq. ft.
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smartNOTES

7
Space Requirements
Designed for smooth and efficient functioning
Two Primary Goals
Overall visual appeal or emotional impact should be pleasant
Space per Esthetician 120 to 150 square feet
Other Requirements Attractive and comfortable reception area with seating

Service areas for facial treatments and makeup
A dispensary
Well-designed and clean restroom with sink and toilet
Sufficient lighting and plumbing
Heating and air conditioning
Floor Plan Hire a developer or an architect
Examine alternatives, then work out design details; make wise investment
Equipment
The Basics
n Treatment beds
n Stools & storage cabinets
n Facial and other treatment machines
n Smaller tools
n Waxing units
66
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smartNOTES
Borrowing Money Must be willing to invest some of your own money in order to get a loan
Do not sign rental agreement until loan is approved
Important to make loan payments on time
May need a “profit and loss projection”
Operating Capital Needed to open skin care center and pay expenses for first six months
Reservoir of cash that you will need to stay ahead of creditors
Track Record A good relationship with your bank
Line of Credit Provides reserve of cash that you can draw upon to meet needed operating
expenses; preserves the reservoir of funds so you can dip into them easily
Should pay money borrowed back as quickly as possible
Rental Agreements Also called leases; normally extend for five years with an option
for five more years
Basic Landlord Services:
n Maintenance to building; repairs to facility
n Adequate water capacity and pressure
n Late night and/or weekend access to building
Types of Rental Capital improvements should be negotiated to be paid by the owner of the
Agreements
building or lessor
Fixed Set dollar amount paid each month to the lessor; allows you to predict
monthly expenses
Variable Set dollar amount paid per month plus percentage of total monthly income
Common in malls and large shopping centers
Don’t sign lease until you are satisfied that it is fair and reasonable
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smartNOTES
Insurance Protects you from financial difficulties; known as risk management
Malpractice Protects the skin care center owner from financial loss resulting from negligence
Owner must insure each esthetician in the center; covers cost of a lawsuit or
settlement resulting from damage inflicted on a client
Property or Premise Covers the actual skin care center equipment and physical location
Covers replacement of lost items & carries liability clause that will pay
claim if someone is injured on the premises
Product Liability Recent addition to insurance coverage

Protects skin care centers, distributors and manufacturers from lawsuit
due to misuse; some companies require an educational program in
product knowledge before granting
Worker’s Compensation State-controlled and required by law; paid directly to state on quarterly
basis; covers any expenses resulting from injury to an employee
L E AR N I N G C O N N E CT I ON Personal Financial Statement

Fill in the information for the personal financial statement found below. You can elect to use your personal
information or list amounts from a fictional source you name. This exercise is designed to help you
become familiar with the key components of a personal financial statement used to determine net worth.
PERSONAL FINANCIAL STATEMENT

Assets Asset Value Liability
House $50,000 Mortgage on House $35,000
Car 6,000 Loan for Car 3,000
Savings Account Balance 500 Loan for School 5,000
Checking Account Balance 200 Credit Card Balance 2,000
Savings Bonds 500 Money Owed to Doctor 20
Personal Jewelry 1,000 Money Owed to Creditor 50
Household Contents 20,000 Money Owed to Family or Friends 100
Other Other
Total Assets $78,200 Total Liabilities $45,350
Assets minus Liabilities = Net Worth $32,850
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smartNOTES
Chapter 3 Business Basics Operating a Business Pages 81-84
M 2
n
List the skills required for any employer: paying taxes, managing inventory and setting prices, business
administration, hiring and other employee issues, advertising, public relations, promotion calendar
Expenses and Profit Pay percentage to government Loss Receive tax credit
Income
Income All payments received from clients for services and products; revenue
Operating Expenses (OE) All costs incurred in day-to-day running of skin care center
Fixed Variable
No cost change from month to Costs change on a monthly basis

month for at least one year
Utilities, supplies, promotions,
Rent, salaries, insurance postage, tax
Revenue Projection
Estimate of amount earned in revenues & amount paid out in expenses
Sometimes required by lending institutions before a loan is granted
Takes months to accurately gauge
Completing twice a year helps make educated business decisions
Expenses
Largest expense is staff compensation
Taxes
A business owner is responsible for promptly paying local and federal
government taxes
Withholding Tax
Owner keeps a percentage of funds from employee’s income for paying
government federal, state and local taxes & Social Security tax
Social Security
Planned savings/retirement fund for every worker in the U.S.; includes
Medicare (provides medical insurance coverage during retirement)
W-2 Form
Must be provided by skin care center owner for each employee
Indicates all taxes paid for past year
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smartNOTES
Sales Tax Must apply for a sales tax permit before collecting sales tax on items or
services; fill out resale certificate & provide tax ID number – won’t have
to pay tax to seller
Income Tax Paid on the profits (earnings) of a business

IRS establishes criteria for reporting profit and loss
n Hiring
Interview Criteria Ability to work productively with a group Personal appearance

Experience Professionalism
Technical skills People skills
Telephone skills Enthusiasm
Establish an outline for all candidate interviews
Compliance Issues Employees must fill out W-4 form and I-9 form to verify identity and
eligibility to work
Compensation
$$$ $$$ $$$

COMMISSION SALARY SALARY PLUS
Based on % of COMMISSION
Set income
dollar income on weekly or Guarantees set
generated by monthly basis income, plus
serving clients additional income
when goal is met
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smartNOTES
n Skin Care Center

Philosophy, Policies
and Procedures
Record Keeping Should be kept accurately and consistently

Full- or part-time bookkeeper to keep financial records
Important to have year-end analyses, reports and forecasts done
By maintaining and analyzing daily, weekly and monthly appointment and sales
records, you will be able to:
n Notice when supplies are running low so you can re-order
n Observe types of services being requested
n Be aware of kinds of materials being used for different types of treatments
n Control waste
Inventory and
Product Control
Inventory All products purchased for use during services; stock in quantity
Two categories: professional and retail
Inventory Control Procedures used to ensure that products are accounted for from purchase
to use; owners or managers establish guidelines
Product continuation as retail items based on “turnovers”
Pricing Recapture the cost of what you paid

Reasonable rate; fit income range of clients you hope to attract
Determine what other centers charge
Profit margin anywhere from 50% to 100% and beyond
Use manufacturer’s suggested retail price as a guideline to be competitive
Make enough money without overcharging
Clients will pay a little extra if they perceive the value to be greater
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smartNOTES
Receptionist Duties
Primary Functions n Greet each person with a smile
n Promote goodwill and client satisfaction

n Schedule appointments in fair and efficient way
n Manage incoming and outgoing calls
n Work with esthetician to ensure proper time allocation
n Inform estheticians of client arrival
n Supervise reception area
n Promote retail products and additional services
n Handle client complaints calmly and efficiently
n Ensure services are paid and documented
n Ensure messages are handled in order of priority and with efficiency
n Be prepared to field client questions
Telephone Techniques Phone creates first impression for many clients

1. Answer within 2 rings
2. Greet – Center name…Your name… “How may I help you?”
3. Listen for client name and service desired
Ask
4. Schedule appointment…esthetician, time, date, service, thank you
your clients
if they are 5. “Would you please hold?” Wait for yes or no, put on hold, return in one minute
satisfied.
6. Messages: date, time, for whom, name of caller, phone number, exact message,
repeat it, deliver it
Unhappy clients often do not complain, they just don’t return.
How would you

handle a client
complaint over
the phone?
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smartNOTES
Chapter 3 Business Basics Operating a Business Page 91
Scheduling
Scheduled according to type of service and speed of esthetician
Appointments
Important Information Client name Appointment time

Scheduled service Client phone number
Codes for Client Types “W” ‘walk-in’

“R” ‘request’ for a specific service
“O” ‘open’ no preference in regard to the esthetician
“N” ‘new’ clients and “Ref” for ‘referral’ clients
Schedule of
Appointment 1: L E AR N IN G CON N E CT I ON Appointments
Mary Wilson, phone
number 555-7780 has called
in and wants to request an Below you will find an appointment sheet for Tuesday, July 15th. Some of the appointments
appointment with Frances have been identified on the schedule already. Challenge yourself to place the five additional
at 10:30 on Tuesday, July 15, appointments found in the column to the left of the appointment sheet.
for a facial.
Appointment 2:
T u esda y, J uly 15
Rhonda Frances Tamika Becky Sue
Wendy Jones would like
to come for a facial with 9:00 Smith W Engstrom T
makeup sometime in the 9:30 EW MU Davis R Off Off
afternoon. This is a
practice session for her LW/F/MU
wedding in two weeks. Wilson R
Appointment 3: F
Ann Downey would like to Lunch Lunch Lunch
change her appointment
for a leg waxing from Becky
to Frances on Tuesday
afternoon at 1:30. Jones O Downey R Baker R
Appointment 4: F/MU L W Mitchel R Facial
Olivia Jackson would like Myers T EALW/F Williams R
an appointment for a facial
LW/F Facial
on Tuesday afternoon. She
would like to schedule it Mino R Donnelly O
so she can ride home with Renge R Trt - A EW
Mrs. Wilke. She will take a
F/MU
cab to the appointment.
Jackson O Johnson O Menke R
Appointment 5:
Wilke R F EABL/F EALW/F
Elaine Johnson wants
to schedule an eyebrow, EABLW/F
underarm, bikini and leg
wax and, if time permits, a
facial on Tuesday afternoon.
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smartNOTES
M 3 Define advertising and promotion techniques that will increase sales
Handling Money Count back change from smaller denomination to larger

Always give the client the fewest bills necessary
Advertising Best form is word-of-mouth

Most selective form is direct mail
Magazines or periodicals that reach clientele you are trying to attract
Television and radio ads
Internet banner ads or own Web site
If it works, repeat it; if it fails, drop it
Survey clients once a year for opinions
Need an agency if ad campaign is large
Public Relations Relating to the public

Get involved in community groups
People will try your services if they like and trust you
Become known as a worker
Hold seminars or fund-raising events to promote business
Send out info to tell the story of your business – include photos
Plan of Action Make lists of media contacts; come up with story idea; write down story
pitch; create promotion package; mail packages to contacts; follow up
Promotion Calendar One year promotional plan - seasonal

Best way to ensure an effective advertising and promotion campaign
Think of a company that has great public relations. Why do you think this company
is accepted within the community?
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LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Advertising Corrections
Which of the following two advertisements professionally represents this skin care center?
Discuss with a partner and list at least three specific reasons that led you to choose one
advertisement over the other.
A B
Selenas Skin Care Center
Selenas Skin Care Ctr. Located at 110 Pleasant St., Milfred
Located in dwtne. Milfred
Featuring
Featuring:
n Exclusive treatments and services
n Mud packs
n Full product line to meet skin
n The best facials in the state care needs
n Great retail Products n 4 well-trained, licensed estheticians
n Walkins acceptable n Appointments and walk-in sessions
are available from 9 am to 8 pm
n Open 5 days a week
Call Today for an Appointment
Call Today for Your appointment.
Phone 566-555-5555
Visit us at ww.selenasctr.com
Visit us at www.selenasctr.com
We accept major credit cards VISA, MasterCard and

Unattended children not allowed American Express accepted
Parking available Plan ahead for a stress-free appointment
Park free in ramp across the street
Box B
1. No abbreviations
2. Tells not only which days they are open but also gives the time
3. Tells which type of credit cards
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OWNERSHIP
Sole Proprietorship Partnership Corporation Franchise
1-Person Control 2-Person Split Has a Parent

Owned by
Corporation
Shareholders
FINANCIAL
Personal Financial Statement Business Plan
All in the Assets

Family Cost of Necessary Improvements
Liabilities
Operating Capital
Place the terms or phrases found
Net Worth
below in their respective “family
trees”. All terms or phrases are Reservoir of Cash
RENTAL
used only once.
Lease Agreement Lease Agreement

Sole Proprietorship
Worker’s Compensation
Business Plan Capital Improvements Fixed Rent Variable Rent
Capital Improvements
Personal Financial Statement
Building Changes Set Dollar Set Dollar Plus
Variable Rent Amount % of Income
Reservoir of Cash
Liabilities INSURANCE
Cost of Necessary Improvements
Malpractice
Malpractice Property Insurance
Assets
Net Worth
Product Liability Protects Property
Protection from Employee
Protects Property Negligence
Franchise
Partnership
Product Liability Worker’s Compensation
Corporation
Set Dollar Amount
1-Person Control Protection from Client
Misuse
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MATCHING
Match the term from Column A with the corresponding description in Column
B by placing the letter of the term in the box in front of the description.
Column A Column B
Reservoir of cash needed to stay ahead of your creditors

A. Corporation E
Set dollar amount paid per month plus a percentage of

B. Fixed rent H
the total monthly income
Assets minus liabilities

C. Malpractice Insurance M
Legal entity, separate from its shareholders, formed

D. Franchise A
under legal guidelines
Person with low personal net worth that is borrowing

E. Operating cash L
money
Dollar amount paid per month to the lessor; allows you

F. Annual W- 2 B
to predict monthly expenses
Income minus operating expenses

G. Inventory O
An operating agreement in which a fee is paid to a

H. Variable rent D
parent corporation
Protects the owner from financial loss that can result

I. Social Security C
from employee negligence
Money you owe

J. Inventory Control N
Stock in quantity
K. Salary G
Planned savings/retirement fund for every worker in

L. “High risk” I
the U.S.
Procedures used to ensure that products are accounted

M. Net worth J
for from purchase through sale
Form given to an employee by the employer that

N. Liabilities F
indicates all taxes paid for the past year
Compensation that guarantees a set income on a

O. Profit K
weekly or monthly basis
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With a partner, use the

1. CALCULATING COMPENSATION information found in box 1
to calculate the compensation
Tues. Wed. Thurs. Fri. Sat. Total that would be earned by this
Service Total $200 $100 $200 $300 $400 $1200 employee. The compensation
Retail Total $100 $ 50 $100 $200 $300 $ 750 rate is a guaranteed salary
of $250.00, plus 50% of the
State Tax = $60
service amount over $500 for
Federal Tax = $80
Social Security = $44 the week. A commission of
10% is paid for retail sales.
$1200 - $500 = $700 x 50% = $350 + $250 = $600
$790 x 10% = $79 Discuss the calculation
$679 - $184 (tax) = $495 take home pay process and results with your
partner.
Discuss with a partner the

2. CALCULATING PROFIT MARGIN differences between skin
care centers A and B
Income Expenses Profit shown in box 2. Skin Care
Skin Care Center A has less income
Center A $100,000 $88,000 $12,000 and expenses.
Skin Care Which of the skin care

Center B $200,000 $185,000 $15,000 centers shows the largest
profit margin? Skin Care
Center A has a greater profit
margin at 12% profit versus
Skin Care Center B at 7.5%.
Imagine that you have just

3 . THIRD QUARTER PROMOTIONS started a new job and have
been informed that you are a
SEP
part of the 3rd quarter (July,
Fall into Aug. and Sept.) promotion
Gift with Friendly Facials group.
Purchase Savings
The meeting is next week
Notes: and you want to share some
July – Beat the Heat; receive a cleansing sponge with a facial
of your promotion ideas. Jot
August – Back to School; bring a friend for a facial and receive a discount of 10% down your ideas in the space
provided to the left and be
September– Fall into Savings; schedule your next appointment at a 20%
discount if booked now prepared to explain them to
the class.
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1. TRUE FALSE Asset is the term used to identify an amount you owe.
THE CHALLENGE Liability is the term used to identify an amount you owe.
well you know your new
2. TRUE FALSE A partnership is a business owned by two or more persons.
these questions. Then use
the Memory Box that
follows to check yourself. 3. Variable rent is a set dollar amount paid per month plus a percentage of the total
Look up each answer on monthly income for rent.
the Salon Fundamentals™ 4. Which of the following insurance types is used to protect the owner from financial
Esthetics textbook. Check loss that can result from employee negligence while performing services on clients?
“got it” for all correct a. product liability
b. premise insurance
c. property insurance
all incorrect responses. d. malpractice insurance
Using the “Know Chart,”
5. When operating expenses are subtracted from income, what term describes the
record all of your correct amount of money that remains?
responses in the “I a. profit
Know” column. After b. credit
c. turnover
d. liabilities
6. Which of the following percentages represents a typical percent of income paid out
for rent for a skin care center?
“I Need to Study” column. a. 12% b. 25% c. 45% d. 60%
That way you know exactly
7. Which of the following is the best determining factor upon which to establish
what to review before service prices for your skin care center?
continuing in this Guide. a. results of a national marketing survey
b. prices charged in a city two times larger than your city
Directions: Identify c prices charged in a city two times smaller than your city
d. results of a market survey conducted within the targeted area of your
whether questions 1 and
skin care center
8. What is the term used to describe the amount of time it takes to sell the product
once it is on the shelf?
You can earn an extra a. guides
point for each false b. monitors
statement you c. controllers
d. turns or turnovers
Question 3 requires you 9. A suggested telephone answering tip is to answer the phone within how many rings?
a. one ring
to write in an answer
b. two rings
in the blank provided. c. four rings
Answers to the questions d. six rings
found in 4 through 10 10. Which of the following statements best describes the order in which to count back
may be selected by change to a client?
circling a, b, c or d below a. bills first, then coins
b. coins first, then bills
c. dollars first, then quarters
your choice. d. quarters first, then pennies
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1. page 71 o got it
o not yet
2. page 72 o got it
o not yet
3. page 79 o got it
o not yet
4. page 79 o got it
o not yet
5. page 81 o got it
o not yet
6. page 83 o got it
o not yet
7. page 88 o got it
o not yet
8. page 88 o got it
o not yet
9. page 90 o got it
o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW

Design a promotional contest that could be offered in the salon that would encourage retail sales. Be creative and
innovative. Think of an idea that will gain the attention of the clients and still be exciting for the employees. Your
theme (idea) might include a seasonal or community event or focus on wellness or personal development. Include
incentives, goals, time frames, motivators (spirit builders or “rah, rah” rallies) or decorating ideas you have that will
support this promotional contest.
Contest Theme (Name): Faces of Friends
Promotion: For every facial service the skin care center will donate $1 to Friends (local shelter for women)
Goals: Each esthetician will schedule 20 facials a week. Goal for the month = 400 facials
Time Frames: 30 days from April 1 through April 30
Motivators: Staff meeting will be a time for facials for each other
Decorating Ideas: Photos of beautiful faces will be placed around the skin care center
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knowledge grid
Chapter 3, Business Basics. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and
increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.
KNOW Define the four major types of business ownership.
1. Sole proprietorship 2. Partnership 3. Corporation 4. Franchise
COMPREHEND Summarize the general duties of a business accountant.
An accountant performs financial advisement, general bookkeeping, rental agreement evaluations,

tax preparation and representation of clients in tax situations.
APPLY Make a list of the basic equipment needed to operate a Skin Care Center.
Treatment beds Waxing units Storage cabinets Brushes

Facial and other treatment machines Facialist stools Storage trolleys Tweezers
ANALYZE Distinguish between withholding and sales taxes.
Withholding taxes refer to a percentage of income that is deducted from an employee’s check for
federal, state and Social Security taxes, which is then paid to the government. Sales tax is money paid
to the state that represents tax on products and services, which is collected from clients purchasing
those products and services.
SYNTHESIZE Design an advertisement for your Skin Care Center.

NEED A STRESS RELIEVER?
Schedule a soothing, aromatic facial today.
Appointments available Monday – Saturday, 9 am to 9 pm
Call 800-555-4307
Wallace Skin Care Center
110 Linden Drive
EVALUATE Justify by comparing the advantages and disadvantages of business ownership.
The advantages of owning your own business include: creative freedom to develop your own business,
financial reward and personal satisfaction. The disadvantages of owning your own business include:
finding the right people to work; finding the right expert advice, and taking a risk financially.
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FIRST
Explain, describe or refute the theme of the essay.
“Why Will the Esthetics Industry

Be Better Because I Am
a Part of It?”
I feel the Esthetics Industry will be better because I

Writing doesn’t am a part of it due to three reasons. The first
have to be a chore. reason is that I love people. The second reason is
Here’s how to that I care about helping people. The third reason is
make it easy! Just that I am a hard worker.
use the Essay
Wizard boxes
provided on this
and the following
page to write your
thoughts.
NEXT
Write it!
The Esthetics Industry will also be better because I care about helping people, and many people visit
an estheticians because they desire help with their skin care needs. I will be proud and honored to
help them. That pride and honor will translate into having people look at the esthetics industry as a
true profession.
Furthermore, I am a hard worker. I am not afraid of work and I know that it takes hard work to be
successful. If I am successful, the esthetics industry will be more successful.
I know it sounds pretty confident to expound on my strengths; however, it is not my weaknesses that
will help the esthetics industry be better with me in it! Moreover, sometimes it takes me saying to
myself that I have these strengths so I can continue to move ahead. The esthetics industry needs me to
have the desire to continue to move ahead and be the best I can be.
I have visited skin care centers and been a client and I have seen the difference between someone that
really cares about people and someone that is just putting in time. I will be a professional and because
of that the esthetics industry will be a better place in which to work.
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THEN
Summarize your ideas.
In conclusion, I feel my love of people, my ability to care about helping people and my strength of
being a hard worker will allow me to help the esthetics industry be represented by strong professionals
who love people, care about helping them and are not afraid of hard work!
BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. Which of the following describes an essential ownership skill necessary for skin
care center owners?
a. ability to do electrical wiring
b. ability to do their own tax work
c. ability to excel in every service offered in the skin care center
d. ability to manage the financial operations of a skin care center
2. What is a list of all the property you own called?

a. net profit
b. net worth
c. total assets
d. total liabilities
3. What is a list of all the money you owe others called?

a. assets
b. net profit
c. net worth
d. total liabilities
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Brain Conditioners
4. Which of the following formulas best describes net worth?

a. liabilities plus profit
b. liabilities minus profit
c. assets minus liabilities
d. net worth minus liabilities
5. What would the $3,000 balance you owe on your car be listed as on a financial statement?
a. an asset
b. a liability
c. a net worth
d. a bad business risk
6. What would the $6,000 your car is actually worth be listed as on a financial statement?
a. an asset
b. a liability
c. a net worth
d. a franchise
7. What is a business called that is owned by one person who is in complete control of the business?
a. franchise
b. partnership
c. corporation
d. sole proprietorship
8. What is a business called in which two or more persons share management responsibilities?
a. franchise
b. corporation
c. partnership
d. sole proprietorship
9. What type of business is owned by its shareholders and is formed under state law?
a. franchise
b. corporation
c. partnership
d. proprietorship
10. What is the title given to a form of operation in which a fee is paid to a parent corporation?
a. entity
b. franchise
c. partnership
d. corporation
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Brain Conditioners
11. Which type of expert would most likely be of assistance in designing a skin care center layout?
a. a banker
b. a lawyer
c. an accountant
d. a distributor sales consultant
12. Which of the following is an advisor on the legal obligations of business ownership, borrowing
money, signing rental agreements and assuming tax responsibilities?
a. a banker
b. a lawyer
c. an accountant
d. a distributor sales consultant
13. What is the most important factor in opening a salon?

a. cost
b. location
c. workforce
d. market need
14. How much room per esthetician is needed to create an efficient working space?
a. 50 to 75 square feet
b. 120 to 150 square feet
c. 200 to 300 square feet
d. Over 300 square feet
15. What type of insurance do states require employers to carry in order to protect the employee if the
employee is injured while working?
a. premise insurance
b. property insurance
c. malpractice insurance
d. worker’s compensation insurance
16. Which of the following is the largest expense in operating a skin care center?
a. rent
b. utilities
c. supplies
d. salaries and commissions
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Brain Conditioners
17. Which of the following identifies a form of compensation that guarantees a certain amount of
money on a regular basis and allows additional payment based on the number of clients the
employee brings into the business?
a. salary
b. commission
c. salary-plus-commission
d. commission-plus-salary
18. Which of the following is a typical commission rate for an employee to receive when selling retail
to a client?
a. 2% to 5%
b. 8% to 15%
c. 35% to 45%
d. 50% to 55%
19. In many cases, who is the first person to greet a client?

a. owner
b. manager
c. esthetician
d. receptionist
20. Which of the following is usually said to be the best form of advertising?
a. billboards
b. pamphlets
c. television
d. word-of-mouth
cannot already be found on this test. Earn one point each for writing your way to success.
21. Q:
A:
22. Q:
A:
23. Q:
A:
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Brain Conditioners
BONUS QUESTION!
class and no one can answer the question within an agreed upon time (between you and the teacher), you earn
a BONUS OF FIVE ADDITIONAL POINTS!
24. Q:
ESSAY QUESTION
25a. You have been asked to practice your interviewing skills by participating in a role play of a
job interview. You have been assigned the role of employer in this role play scenario. Please
list at least three questions you will plan to ask as criteria for making your judgment on who
to hire.
1. Do you work well in a team environment?
2. What kind of experience do you have in the skin care industry?
3. What made you decide to apply for this position?
25b. In your opinion what is it that really makes a skin care center a profitable, successful
business? Please list at least three factors.
1. A well-established client base
2. A pleasant atmosphere
3. Knowledgeable, reliable staff
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Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the
FINAL REVIEW page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines to the right, jot down
topics that you still need to review.
1. page 69
2. page 71
3. page 71 11. page 74
4. page 71 12. page 74
5. page 71 13. page 75
6. page 71 14. page 76
7. page 72 15. page 80
8. page 72 16. page 83
9. page 72 17 page 86
10. page 73 18. page 88
19. page 89
20. page 92
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Business Basics

more enjoyable.
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4
SKIN CARE CENTER ECOLOGY
VALUE MAIN IDEA
By adhering to rigorous sanitation procedures, Because services that could result in the
skin care professionals can create an attractive transmission of infectious diseases are
and safe environment that will guarantee the performed in skin care centers, estheticians
health and well-being of clients and enhance must maintain stringent infection control
the value of the skin care center’s services. standards.These standards, often mandated
When it comes to ecology, or the scientific by law, regulate the ecology of each skin care
study of the relationship of organisms to each center. In this chapter you will learn about
other and to their environment, microbiology, infection control
everything you do to keep your and first aid as they relate to
center clean and free of germs safety and cleanliness in the
will ensure client satisfaction. esthetics environment.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Microbiology n Bacteria n Identify the microorganisms to which you

n Growth of Bacteria may be exposed.
n Viruses n Recognize the structure and function of
n External Parasites bacteria and viruses by their types, classifi-
n Infection cations, growth and reproduction patterns
n Immunity and relationship to the spread of infection.
Infection n Sanitation n Identify the three levels of infection

Control n Disinfection control: sanitation, disinfection
n Sterilization and sterilization.
n Equipment n Explain and demonstrate the procedures
and precautions for the infection control
used in schools and skin care centers.
n Name two regulating agencies and
describe what they do.
n List several types of infection control
equipment.
First Aid n Bleeding and n Choking n List simple safety and first-aid
Wounds n Fainting applications for minor burns, cuts,
n Burns n Eye Injury choking, eye injury and fainting.
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Chapter 4 Skin Care Center Ecology Microbiology Pages 99-101
M 1 Identify the microorganisms to which you may be exposed
M 2
Recognize the structure and function of bacteria and viruses by their types, classifications,
growth and reproduction patterns, and relationship to the spread of infection
Microbiology The study of small living organisms called microbes (bacteria)

Also called germs or microbes; 0ne-celled disease-producing or
non-disease producing microorganisms; classified in two types:
n Bacteria Pathogenic Nonpathogenic

n Disease-producing n Nondisease producing
n Live everywhere in environment n Harmless – can be beneficial
Pathogenic including inside the body n 70% of all bacteria
n Several are harmful and cause n Types found in certain dairy
infection and disease or produce products (yogurt) have
Nonpathogenic toxins health-enhancing properties
n Spread by use of contaminated n Others cause decay of refuse or
implements or dirty hands and vegetation
fingernails
n Saprophytes are nonpathogenic
n Louis Pasteur invented ways to bacteria that live on dead matter
destroy and combat disease
Bacteriology is the study of bacteria; bacteria are single cells with three basic
shapes: circular, spiral or rod-shaped;
Cocci Spherical or round-shaped

Appear singularly or in groups
3 groups of cocci:
Staphylococci – pus-forming bacterial cells that form grape-like bunches or
clusters; present in abscesses, pustules and boils
Streptococci – pus-forming bacterial cells; form in long chains; can cause

septicemia (blood poisoning), strep throat, rheumatic fever and
other serious infections
Diplococci – bacterial cells that grow in pairs; cause certain infections

(pneumonia)
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Bacilli – Most common bacterial cell; bar or rod-shaped cells that can
produce a variety of diseases including tetanus, bacterial
influenza, typhoid fever, tuberculosis and diphtheria
Spirilla – Spiraled, coiled, corkscrew-shaped Helpful Hints

C=circle and cocci
bacterial cells; cause highly
D=double and diplococci
contagious diseases (syphilis B=bar and bacilli
and cholera) S=spiral and spirilla
Cause of Infection Bacteria can cause infections by invading the body through a break in the skin
or through any of the body’s natural openings
Infection occurs when not enough antibodies are produced to fight harmful
bacteria
LE AR N I N G C ON N E C T I ON Alias Terms
What if the terms in pathogenic bacteria were given creative, fun names? Would you be able to recog-
nize them? Below is a list of “alias” names and their descriptions. See if you can determine the term that
matches the description or “alias” and then draw a picture of it in the frame provided.
My name is Curly. I My name is Phyl. My name is Pearl. Our names are My name is
am very “coiled” and I hang out with a I come from a long Arnold and Danny. Rodney. I’m a tough
curvy! My real name “bunch” of guys and “chain” of hot We are a “pair” and guy with lots of
is sometimes we “boil” oysters, so hot we when we are around muscle. I have the
up lots of trouble. bring a “fever”! everyone starts power to lock your
Spirilla.
My real name is My real name is coughing! Our real jaw! My real name is
name is
Staphylococci. Streptococci. Bacilli.
Diplococci.
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n Growth of Bacteria Bacteria thrive in dark, damp or dirty areas where a food source is available
All bacteria go through a growth cycle that consists of two stages:
Active Stage (vegetative stage) Inactive Stage (spore-forming stage)

n Produce and grow rapidly n Unfavorable conditions cause cell to die
or become inactive
n As food is absorbed, cell growth and
division occurs n Some create spherical spores resistant
to disinfectants, cold or heat
n Reproduce quickly, developing as many
as 16 million offspring in 12 hours n When conditions become favorable for
growth, bacteria returns to active stage
Movement of Bacteria travel easily from place to place through air or water because of tiny size
Bacteria Bacilli and spirilla move by using hair-like projections called flagella or cilia
n Viruses Sub-microscopic infectious agent that replicates itself only within cells of living
hosts; many are pathogenic; much smaller than bacteria but cause more serious
diseases such as: Herpes, influenza and other respiratory and gastrointestinal
infections, chickenpox, mumps, measles, smallpox, yellow fever, rabies, AIDS,
hepatitis, polio; cannot live on their own, need “host” to survive; personal service
workers (PSW), such as nurses, doctors, teachers, cosmetologists and estheticians
should take precautions against all viruses
Since you will be exposed to openings in the skin during the extraction process of most facial procedures,
you should consider being inoculated as a preventative measure. Gloves and eye protection are essential
during the extraction process to protect yourself from exposure to client’s blood or body fluids.
Life-threatening Viruses Hepatitis B Virus – highly infectious disease that affects the liver
HBV Preventable through vaccination; inoculation is recommended
AIDS Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome (AIDS) – highly infectious disease
caused by Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV); interferes with the body’s
natural immune system and causes it to break down; spread by blood or body
fluids (blood, semen, vaginal fluids and breast milk) absorbed into bloodstream.
Infectious fluids can enter through sexual intercourse, childbirth, cuts, sores or
by sharing needles
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n External Parasites Organisms that grow and feed on other living organisms (hosts)
Contribute nothing to their hosts; cause contagious diseases
Parasitic animals – head lice (pediculosis capitis) and itch mites (scabies)
Parasitic plants or fungi – molds and yeasts producing contagious disease
ringworm (tinea capitis), honeycomb ringworm (favus) and nail fungus
Can occur on natural or artificial nails; infection can spread to a
noninfected area if esthetician uses the same implements
previously used in an infected area
n Infection Disease-causing bacteria or viruses enter the body and multiply to the
point of interfering with the body’s normal state; growth of parasitic
organism within the body; microorganisms are referred to as pathogens
and include viruses, bacteria, protozoa and fungi
Bloodborne Pathogens Bacteria or viruses that are transmitted through the blood or body fluids and
cause infectious diseases; airborne pathogens can travel through the air;
contagious infections or communicable diseases can be transmitted from one
person to another through casual contact
Common means of spreading infection in a skin care center include:

n Contact with open sores
n Contact with contaminated hands and implements
n Exposure to coughing or sneezing
n Use of common drinking cups and towels
n Exposure to unsanitary skin care center conditions
n Use of facial beds that are not properly disinfected between clients
Infectious disease – Spreads by blood-to-blood or body fluid transmission; e.g., HIV and HBV
Contagious/communicable disease – Spreads from one person to another via casual

contact; e.g., common cold and measles
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Chapter 4 Skin Care Center Ecology Microbiology Page 105
Contagious Diseases Contagious diseases cause infection

Not all infectious diseases are contagious because not all can be spread
through casual contact
Disease Infectious Contagious
AIDS X
Chickenpox X X
Common Cold X X
Hepatitis B X
Herpes X X
Influenza X X
Legionnaire’s Disease X
Lyme Disease X
Measles X X
Tuberculosis X X
Tuberculosis Prevention Tuberculosis – contagious, potentially fatal infection caused by airborne

bacteria that first affect the lungs
Use germicidal disinfectants for equipment and implements as an effective

preventative measure in the spread of tuberculosis
Infections can also be prevented by good personal hygiene, public awareness

and following infection control procedures in the skin care center
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Universal Precautions Using the same infection control procedures for all clients
Two basic classes of infection:
Local Infection General Infection (Systemic)
n Present in a small, confined area n Occurs when the circulatory

system carries bacteria and their
n Often indicated by a pus-filled toxins to all parts of the body
boil, pimple or inflammation
n General = giant
n Local = little
Defense Mechanism Inflammation is the body’s defense mechanism against harmful bacteria
Asymptomatic Carrier Asymptomatic carrier – a person carrying a disease-producing bacteria or virus

but with no recognizable symptoms of the disease
Body’s ability to destroy infectious agents that enter it

Immune system fights infection in two basic ways:
n Immunity
Natural Immunity
Passive Immunity
n Partially inherited, natural
resistance to disease n Occurs through vaccinations or
the injection of antigens
n Production of white blood cells
and antibodies fight disease- n Body’s immune response
causing agents stimulated by vaccination
n Epidermis (outer layer of skin)

protects body from microbes
n Unbroken skin shields body

from disease
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Chapter 4 Skin Care Center Ecology Infection Control Pages 107-108
M 3 Identify the three levels of infection control: sanitation, disinfection and sterilization
General Practices An effort to prevent the spread of disease and kill microbes; prevention is
practiced at three levels: sanitation, disinfection and sterilization
General practices include handwashing, using personal protective
equipment (gloves and safety glasses) and proper disinfection to
prevent cross-contamination
Glove Regulations Must be worn for waxing or extraction procedures if contact with blood or body
fluids is a possibility; some regions, by law, require the use of gloves
during facial procedures
Common Types of Gloves Latex – some clients could suffer allergic reaction
Latex allergy could produce redness, swelling, itching, burning or hives
Vinyl – more expensive of two types of gloves
Efficacy Ability to produce results, or effectiveness

Required labels on disinfectants to inform user about what organisms the
product is effective against; reading manufacturer’s directions plays
significant role in ensuring infection control
Important Vocabulary
n Infection control – prevention of the spread of infectious agents to you and your clients
n Sanitation, Disinfection and Sterilization – comprise the three levels of infection control
n Sanitation – low-level destruction of surface bacteria
n Disinfection – eliminates bacteria, viruses and most organisms on inanimate, non-porous surfaces;
recommended for all esthetic implements and surfaces
n Sterilization – eliminates all living organisms on non-porous surfaces
n Antiseptics – arrest or prevent the growth of microorganisms on the skin
n OSHA’s Bloodborne Pathogen Standard – should be followed for all tools and implements that
come into contact with blood or body fluids; requires use of EPA-registered hospital-level disinfectant
that is labeled effective against HIV-I and Hepatitis B or tuberculocidal
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M 4 Explain and demonstrate the procedures and precautions for

the infection control used in schools and skin care centers
Three Levels of Sanitation, Disinfection and Sterilization

Infection Control Levels of infection control protect you and the public you serve
Determining the appropriate level of decontamination and infection
control depends on how a tool or implement is used
Important Procedures n Infection control procedures include handwashing, using

and Precautions personal protective equipment (gloves and safety glasses),
and properly disinfecting all skin care implements and
surfaces to prevent cross-contamination
n Universal Precautions, a set of guidelines established by the

CDC, means using the same infection control practices on
all clients; it is safer to handle the blood and body fluids of
all clients as potentially infectious
n Exposure to blood and other body fluids presents a risk for

skin care professionals; for the esthetician, exposure can
occur during the extraction process of a facial, as well as
during other services, such as waxing
n Handwashing removes microorganisms by lifting them from

the surface of the skin; hands should be washed between
each service, before and after lunch break, after using the
bathroom, or any time they become contaminated
n Sanitation
n Lowest level of infection control
n Serves as foundation of your infection control program
n Physical removal of debris, which reduces the number of
microbes present
n Removes organic matter (blood and skin particles)
n Infection control rules developed by regulating agencies to protect consumers
n Begins process of protecting you and clients from transmission of disease
n Performed on non-critical objects (that come in contact with the skin)
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Sanitation 1. Wash hands with liquid antibacterial soap before and after each service
Guidelines 2. Sanitize all surfaces before and after each service
3. Provide hot and cold running water at all times
4. Provide clean restrooms with well-stocked liquid soap, toilet tissue and paper towels
5. Provide disposable drinking cups
6. Clean sinks and water fountains regularly
7. Keep the skin care center free from insects and rodents
8. Empty waste receptacles daily
9. Wear clean, freshly laundered clothing
10. Provide freshly laundered towels for each client
11. Use fresh, clean sheet to cover table, facial bed or chair before each service
12. Launder all towels and linens on a regular basis
13. Store soiled towels in a covered receptacle until laundered
14. Avoid touching your face, mouth or eyes during services
15. Wear protective gloves if performing a service that has exposure to blood or body fluids
16. Never allow pets or animals in service areas - except Service Animals
17. Provide a new loofah or sponge for each client during a body treatment for showering
18. Dispense all semi-fluids and powders with a shaker , dispenser pump,
spray-type container, spatula or disposable applicator
19. Label all chemicals and keep them covered when not in use
20. Use a fresh spatula or applicator stick for every client and every dip in for more product
21. Mix skin care formulations in flexible mixing bowls manufactured with FDA-approved material
22. Dispose of sharp objects in sealable, rigid container strong enough to protect from puncture
23. Discard disposable items, porous implements and sponges after each service
24. Maintain a file of Material Safety Data Sheets for all products used in the skin care center
Proper
1. Use a paper towel or tissue to turn the 4. Lather and scrub for approximately
Handwashing water on, if you have a paper towel or 15 seconds.
Procedures tissue dispenser. Dispense an additional
10 to 12 inches (25-30 cm) and leave
5. Rinse hands; then tear off paper towel
and dry.
hanging in place from the dispenser for
later use. 6. Turn off water with paper towel or
tissue – not with your clean hands! If
2. Wet hands with warm water.
more paper is needed, use the paper in
3. Apply soap and clean hands, nails and your hand on the dispenser handle.
between fingers.
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Ventilation Needed to prevent stale, musty odor or the smell of various chemical solutions
Average room temperature should be around 7o° Fahrenheit or 21° Celsius
n Air conditioners regulate changes in the quality and quantity of air brought into the
skin care center as they cool, dehumidify and eliminate pollutants from the air.
Remember to change air filters as needed.
n Forced-air furnaces heat the air and purify it by filtering out most dirt and
debris. Remember to change air filters, as needed, usually when dirt is visible.
n Exhaust fans help circulate the air but do not clean it. Position fans to draw air away
from you and your client.
n Air should be mechanically supplied through vents and air returns and/or through
opening windows and doors or by using blower fans to direct air as desired.
n Whenever possible, direct exhaust air out of the building.
n Disinfection n Second level of infection control

n Use of products or methods that kill or destroy bacteria and a wide
spectrum of viruses
n Unlike sterilization, chemical disinfectants do not eliminate bacterial spores
n Regulated by law
n Standards for disinfection apply to all surfaces, tools and implements
in the esthetics room
n Instrument disinfection and pre-cleaning can be done by hand or with an
ultrasonic cleaning machine
n Ultrasonic cleaners prove to be 16 times more effective than
hand scrubbing
M 5 Name two regulating agencies and describe what they do
Regulating Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)

Agencies n Regulating agency under Department of Labor
n Enforces safety and health standards in the workplace
OSHA The 1997 OSHA Bloodborne Pathogens Standard requires the use of an
EPA-registered disinfectant with an efficacy against HIV and HBV or
tuberculocidal. This requirement applies to all implements that come into
contact with blood or body fluids.
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Material Safety
Data Sheets (MSDS)
n Keep MSDS
n Provides key n Manufacturers
in binder for
information on a must supply
emergency
specific product MSDS with each
reference
regarding shipment (or have
ingredients, available upon
associated hazards, request)
combustion levels
and storage require-
ments
EPA Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)

Approves the efficacy of products used for infection control and assigns
an EPA registration number
Disinfection Since the regulatory agency in each area determines efficacy standards,
Considerations they may vary from place to place
Broad-spectrum Formerly known as hospital-level disinfectants
When choosing chemical disinfecting agents, consider the following:

Is it non-irritating to the skin?
Is it in compliance with the area regulating agency or health department?
Is it economical?
Is it easy to use?
Is it an agent that works quickly?
Is it safe for use with metal and plastic implements?
Is the recommended storage container sufficient for usage?
Read directions carefully and follow recommended safety precautions

Follow specific immersion times and cleanse implements before disinfecting
Disinfection methods do not work instantly but require some time to destroy microbes
Sanitation and disinfection practices are methods most often utilized in the
skin care center
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Chapter 4 Skin Care Center Ecology Infection Control Page 116
Disinfection 1. Discard or disinfect every implement that comes into contact with the client
Guidelines 2. Remove all debris from non-disposable implements and pre-clean by washing
with soap and hot water , by hand or with an ultrasonic cleaner
3. Rinse thoroughly and pat implements dry prior to immersion to avoid dilution
4. Completely submerge all non-porous skin care implements in an EPA-registered,
hospital-level disinfectant effective against HIV and HBV or tuberculocidal
5. Change chemical solutions in disinfectant containers regularly
6. Remove the implement with forceps, tongs or gloved hands , or use a self-
draining basket
7. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for rinsing and drying
8. Store implements that have been disinfected in a clean, dry, covered container or cabinet
9. Never pick up and use an implement or towel that has been dropped on the floor
10.Use additive that disinfects and sanitizes for towels and body wraps laundered in your facility
11. Keep a first-aid kit on hand
12. Refer to guidelines for blood spill procedures for cuts or broken skin exposures
13. Dispose of any material that comes in contact with blood or body fluids in a
sealable plastic bag and place inside a covered waste can liner or use
appropriate sharps container
Precautions 1. Tightly cover and label disinfecting products and other chemicals for use in skin
for care center
Mixing
Chemicals 2. Store in a cool, dry area; air, light and heat can weaken chemicals
3. Purchase chemicals in small quantities
4. Do not inhale chemical solutions; avoid contact with skin or eyes; wear protective
gloves; refer to MSDS for procedures if contact does occur with the skin or eyes
5. Wash hands with a liquid antibacterial soap and water after handling all chemicals
6. Try to avoid spilling; if you do spill, wipe up all spills at once. Refer to MSDS for handling
7. Change chemical solutions in disinfectant containers regularly as recommended by
manufacturer
8. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions
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Blood Spill Procedure Treat all blood encountered in workplace as infectious
Blood Spill Procedure
If you are exposed to a client’s blood during a procedure, take the

following steps:
1. Stop the service and wash your hands
2. Cover your hands with protective gloves
3. Supply the injured party with styptic powder or spray and the
appropriate dressing to cover the injury
4. Do not allow containers, brushes, nozzles or the styptic

container to touch the skin or come into contact with the wound
5. Disinfect the station with a broad-spectrum disinfectant
6. Double-bag all disposable blood-soiled (contaminated) articles

and discard, making certain that the bag is sealed to protect
anyone from coming in contact with the material
If you are injured during a service, follow this procedure:

n Stop the service and wash the wound with an antiseptic
n Cover the wound with a bandage; wear gloves if the wound is
on your hand and continue your service
n Sterilization n Highest level of infection control

n Destroys all small organisms, including bacterial spores
n Required only for implements used for invasive procedures, such as
electrolysis needles and lancets used to puncture the skin
n Occasionally implements used in non-invasive treatments, such as
microdermabrasion tips, require sterilization
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n Sterilization Methods are costly, time-consuming and require a high degree of quality control
Numerous sterilization methods exist, such as moist/dry heat and immersion in
chemical sterilants
More sturdy and usually more expensive items such as comedone extractors,
tweezers and epilating needles for electrolysis cannot be thrown away, but will
need sterilization
n
M 6
Equipment
List several types of infection control equipment
UV Light Sterilizer Utilizes UV light to kill bacteria in a dry setting

Implements are placed in cabinet after being completely pre-cleaned with warm
soapy water and are allowed to sanitize for 20 minutes
Used for storage of disinfected implements; cannot be relied upon to
kill organisms
Paper, certain types of wood implements and sponges are not recommended
Sanitizer, which utilizes both light and heat, is lower in strength than sterilizer,
which uses light
Autoclave Pressurized, steam-heated vessel that sterilizes objects with high pressure and
heat, or pressurized steam, disallowing any microorganism survival
Critical instruments, such as lancets, must be disposed of or sterilized
Regular monitoring of sterilization cycles is important to ensure proper operation
Follow manufacturer’s instructions for use, proper maintenance and monitoring
Chemiclave Machine that sterilizes surgical instruments with high-pressure,

high-temperature water vapor, alcohol vapor and formaldehyde vapor
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Infection Control
Guidelines
Level of Infection Control
Item Procedure
SANITATION Countertops Use EPA-registered cleaning products. Efficacy label will state
Sinks “appropriate for floors, countertops, sinks, toilets, towels and/
Floors or linens.”
Toilets
Towels
Linens
Your hands before each service Use antibacterial (antimicrobial) liquid soaps. Avoid bar soaps.
Your hands and client’s hands/feet Apply antiseptic designed for hands and feet.
before hand or foot service
Tools and implements that have Use broad-spectrum, EPA-registered bactericidal, virucidal,
DISINFECTION not come in contact with blood or fungicidal, pseudomonacidal disinfectant mixed according to
body fluids manufacturer’s directions or as required by your area’s
regulatory agency.
Tools and implements that have Use anti-bacterial, EPA-registered disinfectant effective against
come in contact with blood or HIV and HBV or tuberculocidal. Mix and immerse according
body fluids to manufacturer’s directions or as required by your area’s
regulating agency.
Tools and implements used to Use a liquid sterilizer and/or moist or dry heat, calibrated to
STERILIZATION puncture or invade the skin the specified temperatures, to produce a microbe-free result on
non-porous substances.
Sterilization and
Disinfection
Considerations
Iodophor Germicidal Iodine solution relieves skin irritation and is an antiseptic

Detergent Solution
Not suitable disinfectants due to varying concentrations
Phenolic Germicidal Used with other derivatives (ortho-phenylphenol or ortho-benzyl-

Detergent Solution
para-chlorophenol); three percent phenolics are not high-level disinfectants
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1.
UV Light Sterilizer
2. Ethyl (70%) or Anti-bacterial, tuberculocidal, anti-fungal, and anti-viral, but they do not
Isopropyl (90%) destroy bacterial spores; not recommended for high-level disinfection
Alcohol
Stabilized Hydrogen Properties include antibacterial, antiviral and anti-fungal

Peroxide (6%)
Commercial 3% peroxide is effective when used on inanimate surfaces
Quaternary Ammonium Quaternaries sold as disinfectants are anti-fungal, antibacterial, and

Germicidal Detergent
antiviral, but are not sporicidal or tuberculocidal
Glutaraldehyde-Based Lower levels of glutaraldehyde phenate are no longer considered

Formulations (2%) high-level disinfectants
Disinfection time is 20 minutes
Sodium Hypochlorite Use is limited due to corrosiveness and instability

(Household Bleach)
Not recommended for use in disinfection or sterilization
Demand-Release New agent that sterilizes after six hours; refer to the manufacturer’s
Chlorine Dioxide
recommendations for restrictions and directions
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Heat Sterilization Dual-purpose autoclaves/sterilizers can be used for steam or dry heat
Require distilled water to operate and take about 30 minutes to sterilize
Use only with hard, non-porous implements
Ethylene Oxide Gas Ideal for porous or difficult to clean, narrow, channeled implements
Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for operation and sterilization time
Which of the disinfection guidelines do you feel you might have trouble remembering to complete?
Why?
LEA R N I N G C O N N E CT I ON Infection Control Pyramid

Please identify what each level of the Infection Control Pyramid removes,
prevents or kills by placing your answers on the lines to the right.
re
mo
STERILIZATION KILLS SMALL ORGANISMS
BLOODBORNE PATHOGEN DISINFECTION KILLS TUBERCULOCIDALS

ER
OW
DISINFECTION KILLS BACTERIA

GP
LIN
KIL
ANTISEPTIC PREVENTS INFECTION
SANITATION REMOVES DEBRIS

s
les
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Chapter 4 Skin Care Center Ecology First Aid Pages 122-124
M 7
First Aid
List simple safety and first-aid applications for minor
burns, cuts, choking, eye injury and fainting
Estheticians need to be aware of first-aid techniques for emergency situations
nBleeding n Always wear protective gloves when exposed to blood

and Wounds n Place gloved hand and clean cloth or gauze over wound; apply firm pressure for
5 minutes
n Call 9-1-1 or other emergency personnel if bleeding is severe
n Elevate an injured arm or leg above the level of the victim’s heart
n Secure cloth with a bandage when bleeding stops
n Never use a tourniquet unless you cannot control the bleeding
n Be aware of the symptoms of shock
n Burns Chemical, heat or electrical burns are possible in esthetics environment
Chemical Burns Certain chemicals may cause a burn or burning sensation to client’s skin
Often enzyme and glycolic exfoliators are too harsh for a particular client
Avoid burning a client with an exfoliation or peeling treatment, perform a patch test on
the skin; will cause extreme erythema or redness and mild to severe itching, skin
welting or puffiness
Chemical Burns n Remove the product with damp cotton (use water or neutralizer)
First Aid n Move any contaminated clothing from the burn area
n Apply several cold compresses, or cotton soaked in cold water, to the skin
n Cover the burn loosely with a clean, lint-free, dry cloth, such as a sheet
n Refer the injured person for medical treatment if necessary
Heat Burns Hot wax is one of the few heated products used in the skin care center
First Aid Wax must be tested on inside of the wrist prior to applying to the client’s skin
Hot towels for facial service can get extremely hot and cause discomfort
n If skin not broken, immerse burned area in cool water or gently apply cool
compress; bandage with clean, dry cloth
n Do not break blister or apply ointments or crèmes
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Electrical Usually result of faulty equipment or improper use of equipment

Burns Occur when flesh comes into contact with a flow of electrical current or a piece
of equipment has a frayed or severed cord that makes contact with the skin
Prevent by carefully inspecting and handling all equipment used in
the skin care environment
First Aid n If skin is broken, call 9-1-1; do not clean wound or remove embedded clothing
n Cover burn loosely with clean, dry, lint-free cloth
n Choking
First Aid n Determine whether the victim can speak or cough forcibly and is getting
sufficient air
n Do not interfere with the victim’s attempts to cough the obstruction from throat
n If victim cannot speak or is not getting sufficient air, have someone call
9-1-1 and perform abdominal thrusts
Performing an abdominal thrust:
n Stand behind victim and wrap your arms around stomach
n Make thumbless fist with one hand and place just above navel with
thumb toward victim
n Perform upward thrust by grasping fist with other hand and pulling it
quickly toward you with an inward and slightly upward movement
n Repeat if necessary
First Aid n Victim begins to choke

for Choking
n Determine if victim can talk or cough
Summary
n Wrap your arms around victim from behind and make a thumbless fist
n Perform an upward thrust
n Fainting
First Aid n Turn the victim onto his/her back and make sure he/she has plenty of
fresh air
n Reassure the victim and apply a cold compress to his or her face
n If vomiting occurs, roll the victim on his or her side and keep the windpipe clear
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smartNOTES
n Eye Injury
Cut, Scratch or
Embedded Object
First Aid n Place a gauze pad or cloth over both eyes and secure with a bandage
n Do not try to remove an embedded object

n Get to an eye specialist or emergency room immediately
Chemical Injury n Hold the eyelids apart and flush the eyeball with lukewarm water for 15 to 30 minutes
n Place a gauze pad or cloth over both eyes and secure with a bandage
n Get to an eye specialist or emergency room immediately
Which of these procedures

do you feel would be the
easiest for you to perform?
Why?
LEA R N I N G C O NN E C T I ON Emergency Windowpanes

A windowpane is a learning strategy that highlights chunking and visual representation. It consists of a series of rectangles,
each one holding a quick sketch and no more than three to five words to describe a key phrase or idea from the lesson.
The brief phrase chunks the material for recall. The drawing also helps by offering a visual reference for the brain to utilize
as it begins the pursuit of understanding and retention. One example of a windowpane has been completed for the
emergency choking procedure. Try your skill at windowpanes, by selecting any of the other emergency procedures to
complete the remaining set of windows. You may not need to use all of the windows provided.
?
No Talk... Can Talk...
Talk or Cough?
9-1-1 Call Arms from Behind
Thumbless Fist “X Marks the Spot” Upward Thrust
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In many cases in order to fully understand a topic, it is important to know its
cause, what the effect of that cause is and what the solution could be. A C.E.S
C.E.S. CHART (Cause – Effect – Solution) Chart is designed to help you collect information for
your review of these three important components. Complete the chart below by
filling in the missing information. An example is shown in the first row.
CAUSE EFFECT SOLUTION
Esthetician used electrolysis Needle is considered contaminated Sterilize needle with a liquid sterilizer
non-disposable needle on client and/or moist or dry heat, calibrated to
the specified temperatures
Client spilled coffee on counter Countertop appears dirty and sticky Use EPA-registered cleaning product
used to hold makeup displays with efficacy label stating
“appropriate for countertops…”
Client is ready for a foot treatment Surface of skin needs to be clean Wash your hands and use antiseptic
designed for hands and feet for the
client
Towels were used during a facial for Towels are soiled Use EPA-registered cleaning product
a client with efficacy label stating “appropriate
for towels…”
Sponges were used during a facial Sponges are soiled and contaminated Discard sponges
for a client
Microdermabrasion service was Tip of hand piece of the Discard if tip is disposable–if it is a
performed on a client microdermabrasion machine is standard diamond tip, disinfect using
contaminated a broad spectrum, EPA-registered
bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal,
pseudomonocidal disinfectant
according to manufacturer’s directions
or regulatory agency guidelines
Comedone extractor has come into Comedone extractor is contaminated Use antibacterial, EPA-registered
contact with blood during an disinfectant effective against HIV and
extraction HBV or tuberculocidal mixed and
immersed according to manufactuer’s
directions or as required by your
area’s regulating agency
Esthetician wears excessive makeup Makeup runs down face in dark Wear minimal makeup, staying within
streaks while esthetician works light application of neutral colors
Esthetician wears long, artificial Scratches a client and, in the process, Maintain nail length to not extend
nails loses an artificial nail beyond the top of the finger
Your next client has just arrived for You are ready to begin your next Wash your hands before and after the
a facial and you have just walked appointment service with a liquid antibacterial soap
your last client to the desk and water
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corresponding description in column B by
MATCHING
Column A Column B
A. Disinfection G Prevention of the spread of infectious agents to you and

your clients
Eliminates all living organisms on non-porous surfaces,

B. AIDS J including bacterial spores that adhere to surgical
instruments in medical rooms
C. External parasites N Using the same infection control practices on all clients
D. Natural immunity I One-celled microorganisms that are either disease-

producing or nondisease-producing
Comprised of bacteria or viruses that flow through the

E. Communicable disease M
blood or body fluids and cause infectious diseases
F. HBV K The low-level destruction of surface bacteria
G. Infection control A Eliminates bacteria, viruses and most organisms on

inanimate, non-porous surfaces
H. Passive immunity L Ability to produce results, effectiveness
A highly infectious disease caused by HIV, which

I. Bacteria B interferes with the body’s natural immune system
J. Sterilization D Partially inherited, natural resistance to disease
K. Sanitation C Organisms that grow and feed on other living organisms
L. Efficacy F Highly infectious disease affecting the liver
M. Bloodborne pathogens O Hair-like projections used by bacilli and spirilla to move
N. Universal precautions E Can be transmitted from one person to another
O. Flagella H Occurs through vaccinations that stimulate the body’s

immune response
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1. A Touchy Subject
I think the most common means of spreading Describe in your own

infection in the skin care center would be through touching. way the most common
Everything the client and the estheticians who work there touch means of spreading
would be contaminated. That’s why infection control practices are
infection in the skin
care center.
so important.
2. Infection
Make and explain a

Wash your hands before you start… creative sign
depicting how to
It’s your client…have a heart… prevent the spread
of infection.
If you care…it’s only fair.
3. Keys to Infection Control Success
Design and share a

n Label all products poster displaying safety
precautions for the
n Wear protective gloves
skin care center.
n Avoid spilling chemicals
n Follow manufacturer’s direc-
tions
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THE CHALLENGE 1. TRUE FALSE Bacteria are two-celled microorganisms.
Bacteria are one-celled microorganisms.
these questions. Then use 2. TRUE FALSE Nonpathogenic bacteria are harmful and cause infection
and disease. Nonpathogenic bacteria are not harmful
the Memory Box that and do not cause infection and disease.
the corresponding page in 3. Saprophytes live on dead matter, do not produce disease and are considered
the Salon Fundamentals™ nonpathogenic bacteria.
Esthetics textbook. Check 4. Cocci appear singly or in groups and their shape is:
“got it” for all correct a. spiral
b. round
c. rod-like
all incorrect responses. d. rectangular
5. Which of the following statements represents a common means of spreading infection?
record all of your cor- a. coughing or sneezing
rect responses in the “I b. use of liquid antibacterial soap
Know” column. After c. use of copper electrolysis needles
d. disinfection of implements between clients
answers, record all of your 6. Which of the following terms identifies how the common cold and measles are similar?
corrected responses in the a. beneficial
b. harmless
“I Need to Study” column. c. communicable
That way you know exactly d. nonpathogenic
7. Which of the following occurs when the circulatory system carries bacteria and
continuing in this Guide. their toxins to all parts of the body?
a. local infection
Directions: Identify wheth- b. general infection
er questions 1 and c. natural immunity
d. passive immunity
circling TRUE or FALSE. 8. Which of the following describes what a product is effective in fighting against?
You can earn an extra
a. product name
b. product directions
point for each false c. product bar code
statement you d. product efficacy label
appropriately correct. 9. Which of the following identifies where to find key information on a specific product
Question 3 requires you regarding ingredients, associated hazards, combustion levels and storage requirements?
to write in an answer a. product cap
in the blank provided. b. product label
c. product MSDS
Answers to the questions d. OSHA comments
10. Which term below identifies that all bacteria have been killed or destroyed?
may be selected by
a. sanitation
circling a, b, c or d below b. disinfection
each statement to indicate c. ventilation
your choice. d. sterilization
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1. page 99 o got it
I know...
o not yet I need to study...

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW
Experts tell us that it helps to have reminders posted around us to help keep our attitudes in a positive state. In addition
it is helpful to remind people to be considerate, to work safely or to do things a certain way. With this chapter in mind,
create 3 signs that could be posted around the school to focus staff and student attention on the three main parts of this
chapter. Poster 1 should be about microbiology, poster 2 about infection control and poster 3 about first aid.
Poster 1 Microbiology Poster 2 Infection Control Poster 3 First Aid
Wash Your DISCARD

Hands Before OR
the Service… First Aid
Or You’ll Make
Burn or Wound,
Your Client
Nervous… Cut or Scratch,
First Aid Works
It’s a Fact!
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knowledge grid
of Chapter 4, Skin Care Center Ecology. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build
KNOW What are the two types of bacteria and how are they different?
The two types of bacteria are nonpathogenic and pathogenic. Nonpathogenic are harmless and
can be very beneficial even to the point of having medical applications. Pathogenic bacteria are
harmful because they cause infection and disease and some produce toxins.
COMPREHEND Explain why viruses are more deadly than bacteria.
Viruses are smaller particles than bacteria, allowing them to travel into places that
bacteria can’t go, and viruses cause more serious diseases than bacteria.
APPLY List the common means of spreading infection.
The common means of spreading infection include:

1. Open sores 4. Common use of drinking cups and towels
2. Contaminated hands & implements 5. Exposure to unsanitary skin care center conditions
3. Coughing or sneezing 6. Re-use of facial beds without disinfection
ANALYZE Specify the most common procedures for infection control used in a skin care center.
The most common procedures for infection control in the skin care center include
handwashing, the use of personal protective equipment, such as gloves and safety glasses
when needed, and proper disinfection of all skin care implements and surfaces to prevent
cross-contamination.
SYNTHESIZE Compose three sentences that explain the differences among sanitation,
disinfection and sterilization.
Sanitation removes debris and organic matter to reduce the number of microbes. Disinfection
kills certain types of bacteria, viruses and most organisms on inanimate non-porous
substances, making it the second most-effective method of infection control. Sterilization is
the number one method of effectively eliminating all living organisms on nonporous surfaces.
EVALUATE Justify why the first-aid procedures for wounds, burns, choking, fainting and eye injury are
particularly important for an esthetician.
The first-aid procedures are particularly important for an esthetician because of the number of
people the esthetician comes in contact with on a daily basis.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. Which of the following is the study of small organisms?

a. ecology
b. science
c. bacteriology
d. microbiology
2. Which of the following do not produce disease?

a. diplococci
b. streptococci
c. saprophytes
d. staphylococci
3. Which of the following identifies the most common form of bacterial cells?
a. cocci
b. bacilli
c. spirilla
d. streptococci
4. Which type of bacterial cell is a coiled, corkscrew-shaped organism that can cause highly
contagious diseases?
a. bacilli
b. spirilla
c. streptococci
d. staphylococci
5. The size of viruses in relation to bacteria is:

a. the same size as bacteria
b. much larger than bacteria
c. impossible to determine
d. much smaller than bacteria
6. A virus does not cause:

a. mumps
b. measles
c. smallpox
d. strep throat
7. Plants or animals that live on or obtain nutrients from another organism are called:
a. fungus
b. vaccinations
c. external parasites
d. internal parasites
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Brain Conditioners
8. What is developed through the injection of antigens that stimulate the body’s immune response?
a. active immunity
b. natural immunity
c. parasitic immunity
d. passive immunity
9. The low-level destruction of surface bacteria is called:

a. sanitation
b. disinfection
c. sterilization
d. microdermabrasion
10. The second level of infection control is:

a. sanitation
b. disinfection
c. inoculation
d. sterilization
11. The OSHA Bloodborne Pathogen Standard requires the use of an EPA-registered tuberculocidal
disinfectant or an EPA-registered disinfectant labeled as effective against:
a. HBC
b. HIV
c. HBV
d. both b and c
12. Which of the following is the regulating agency under the Department of Labor that enforces
safety and health standards in the workplace?
a. EPA
b. MSDS
c. USDA
d. OSHA
13. Which of the following groups approves the efficacy of disinfectants?

a. EPA
b. MSDS
c. USDA
d. OSHA
14. Implements that come in contact with the client must be:
a. discarded or disinfected
b. disinfected on a weekly basis
c. sanitized at the end of each day
d. sanitized at the beginning of each day
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Brain Conditioners
15. When disinfecting an implement, it is important to:

a. let the implement air dry
b. pre-clean the implement
c. store disinfected items in an open container
d. partially submerge the implement in solution
16. When using chemical disinfecting agents, it is important to:

a. store the agent in a warm, moist area
b. smell the chemical to see if they are potent
c. remember it takes time to destroy microbes
d. not put the lid back on the chemicals right away
17. What is the first step to take when exposed to a client’s blood during a procedure?
a. stop the service and wash your hands
b. cover your hands with protective gloves
c. supply the injured party with styptic powder or spray
d. disinfect the station with a broad-spectrum disinfectant
18. Which of the following is NOT an example of a disposable item?

a. sponge
b. cotton
c. UV sterilizer
d. tongue depressor
19. A bleeding wound should be treated by:

a. applying a tourniquet
b. applying cold water to the wound
c. applying hot water to the wound
d. applying pressure with gauze and a gloved hand
20. What is the first course of action taken if it is suspected that a person is choking?
a. make a thumbless fist with one hand
b. determine if the victim can talk or cough
c. wrap your arms around the victim’s stomach
d. perform an upward thrust by pulling the client quickly toward you
Write Your Own Ticket! For numbers 21, 22 and 23, write your own questions and answer them. Your ques-
tions can be true/false, multiple choice or fill-in-the-blank. The only parameter is that your questions cannot
already be found on this test. Earn one point each for writing your way to success.
21. Q: A:
22. Q: A:
23. Q: A:
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Brain Conditioners
BONUS QUESTION!
24. Q:
ESSAY QUESTION:
25a. Summarize the various levels of infection control as they apply to your specific needs. The
three levels of infection control are sanitation, disinfection and sterilization. List here a
description of each of these three areas, along with how you use them on a daily basis.
1. Sanitation is the low-level destruction of bacteria. Daily I use sanitation practices by sanitizing
countertops, sinks, floors, toilets, towels and/or linens used for services.
2. Disinfection eliminates bacteria, viruses and most organisms on inanimate, nonporous surfaces.
I practice disinfection guidelines after each service with all implements and tools by using a
broad-spectrum, EPA-registered bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal, pseudomonacidal disinfectant or, if
the implements or tools I used came in contact with blood or body fluids, I use a disinfectant that is
EPA-registered effective against HIV and HBV or tuberculocidal.
3. Sterilization is the highest level of infection control and it destroys all small organisms. I do not
presently practice any sterilization guidelines in the skin care center because we have disposable tips on
the microdermabrasion machine and do not use implements that puncture or invade the skin, which is
when sterilization is required.
25b. In your opinion what do you think would be the client’s biggest infection control concern
during an appointment for a service at the skin care center?
I think the biggest infection control concern clients might have is whether the facial bed has been
disinfected prior to their appointment and if the implements I will be using for their service have been
disinfected properly. The other large concern clients would have is whether I have washed my hands
prior to touching their skin.
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1. page 99
2. page 100
11. page 112
3. page 101
4. page 101 12. page 113
5. page 103 13. page 114
6. page 103 14. page 116
7. page 104 15. page 116
8. page 106 16. page 115
9. page 108 17 page 117
10. page 112 18. page 118
19. page 122
20. page 125
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Skin Care Center Ecology

more enjoyable.
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5
ANATOMY
VALUE MAIN IDEA
Only a select group of professionals is This chapter involves the careful study of
licensed to touch people in ways that the human body, progressing from the
promote health and well-being. This simplicity of the single cell to the wondrous
licensure carries with it an expectation that organization of each body system. Of
these professionals understand the human particular importance to the esthetician
body and its functions. As an esthetician, will be the skeletal, muscular, circulatory
this understanding is a fundamental part and nervous systems. As you deepen your
of your preparation for a career as a skin understanding of the human body, you
care specialist. will also enhance your capacity to touch
your clients in ways that enrich health
and well-being.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Building Blocks n Cells n Explain the relationship and function of

of the Human Body n Organs cells, tissues and primary organs within
n Tissues the human body.
n Body Systems
Basic Body n The Skeletal System n Identify the structure and function of
Systems the ten major body systems.
n The Muscular System
n The Circulatory System
n The Nervous System
n The Digestive System
n The Excretory System
n The Respiratory System
n The Endocrine System
n The Reproductive System
n The Integumentary System
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smartNOTES
Chapter 5 Anatomy Building Blocks of the Human Body Pages 131-133
Why Estheticians 1. To develop 2. To properly 3. To have a broader

Study Anatomy beneficial facial apply skin care context for
and Physiology massage and cosmetic understanding
techniques… products… the importance
of touch within
the profession…
Anatomy Gross Anatomy

Categories of the
Study of the organs and systems Study of structures that can be
Study of the
of the body seen with the naked eye
Human Body
Physiology Histology
Study of the structure and function Study of structures too small to be

of the organs and systems seen except through a microscope
M 1
Building Blocks of
Explain the relationship and function of cells, tissues and primary
organs within the human body
the Human Body
n Cells Cells…Tissues…Organs…Systems; basic units of living matter (life)

Composed of protoplasm (colorless gel-like substance containing water, salt &
food nutrients); vary in size, shape, structure and function
Three Basic Parts
Nucleus Control center of cell activities; vitally
important to reproduction
Cytoplasm Production department of cell
where organelles store food for
growth and repair
Cell Membrane Outer surface of the cell
To grow & stay healthy cells need:
1. Food, oxygen and water
2. Proper temperature
3. Ability to eliminate waste; cell becomes impaired if these are gone
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smartNOTES
Chapter 5 Anatomy Building Blocks of the Human Body Pages 133-134
Mitosis Indirect division; cells reproduce by dividing in half
Metabolism Chemical process in which cells receive nutrients for growth and reproduction
Anabolism Process of building up larger molecules from smaller ones

Body stores water, food and oxygen for when they are needed
Catabolism Process of breaking down larger molecules into smaller ones

Energy is released within cell for body functions (muscular movement, digestion)
n Tissues Groups of cells of the same kind
5 Primary 1. Epithelial tissue: covers & protects body surfaces & internal organs
Types of Tissues
2. Connective tissue: supports, protects & holds the body together
3. Nerve tissue: carries messages to & from brain & coordinates body functions
4. Muscular tissue: contracts, when stimulated, to produce motion
5. Liquid tissue: carries food, waste products & hormones
n Organs Separate body structures that perform specific functions
Controls all body functions BRAIN STOMACH Digest food

INTESTINES
Provide vision EYES Removes toxic by-products of digestion

LIVER
Circulates the blood Eliminate water & waste products

HEART KIDNEYS
Forms body’s external protective layer

Supply blood with oxygen Body’s largest organ
LUNGS SKIN
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smartNOTES
Chapter 5 Anatomy Building Blocks of the Human Body Page 135
n
M 2
Identify the structure and function of the ten
major body systems
Body Systems Group of body structures and/or organs that perform one or more vital functions
Vital Functions
Skeletal Provides framework of the body
Muscular Moves the body
Circulatory Circulates blood through the body
Nervous Sends and receives body messages
Digestive Supplies food to the body
Excretory Eliminates waste from the body
Respiratory Controls breathing of the body
Endocrine Controls growth, health and reproduction of the body
Reproductive Generates new life to perpetuate the species
Integumentary Covers and protects the entire body
Did you know that your eye is the same size at birth as it is now?
What other interesting fact about the human body do you know?
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Acrostic Memory or
LEARNING C ON N E CT I ON
Humorous Paragraph
Shown below are two separate Learning Connections. The first one is titled Acrostic Memory and it
asks you to create a name that will help you remember the body systems. The second Connection is
titled Humorous Paragraph and it asks you to write a creative paragraph using the names of the eight
organs. You can elect to do both Connections or work with a partner and share your results. You’ll be
surprised at how easy it becomes to remember these 18 terms!
Acrostic Memory
The word acrostic can be simply defined as a series of letters from a poem or rhyme that when joined
together form a name or motto. Using the first letter of each of the body systems listed below, see if you
can come up with an acrostic that can be used to help you remember the names of the body systems.
Skeletal Circulatory Nervous Digestive Excretory

Muscular Respiratory Endocrine Reproductive Integumentary
D Digestive
R Respiratory
I Integumentary
M Muscular DR. I.M. SCREEN
S Skeletal
C Circulatory
R Reproductive
E Excretory
E Endocrine
N Nervous
Humorous Paragraph
Using the names of the eight primary organs write a brief humorous paragraph. Experts say that it
helps the brain make associations when there is a story format to the learning and/or when a creative
approach is taken to add variety or uniqueness. Try your hand at making a humorous memory. The
eight primary organs include the brain, eyes, heart, lungs, stomach, liver, kidneys and skin.
My BRAIN, which normally has control of all my blood through my body and my LUNGS seemed fully
body functions, did not seem to be working on that expanded trying to grasp as much oxygen as possible.
fateful Friday morning. I had just left the eye doctor’s Finally, I heard the reassuring sound of my doctor as
office after having my annual checkup to help ensure he stood next to my hospital bed and said, “We thought
my EYES continue to produce 40/80 vision, when I there were going to be complications with your KIDNEYS
thought I heard my STOMACH growl as it digested and their ability to eliminate water and waste from
a rather large breakfast. Well, it wasn’t my stomach your body; however, your kidneys seem to be working
that was growling! It was the street sweeper that I quite well. Then we felt it had to be your LIVER and that
absent-mindedly stepped out in front of as I left the you might not be able to remove the toxic products of
curb! I was rushed to the hospital as my SKIN, that digestion. But that is not the case. Your liver is fine. It is,
outer protective layer of my body, started to tingle. I however, time for you to wake up from your dream!”
remember that my HEART was racing as it pushed
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smartNOTES
Chapter 5 Anatomy Basic Body Systems Pages 136-137
n The Skeletal Physical foundation of the body

System Consists of 206 bones attached at movable or immovable joints
Osteology The study of bones
3 Types of Bones Long, flat or irregular in shape

Long bones are found in the arms and legs
Flat bones are plate-shaped and located in the skull
Why didn’t
Irregular bones are found in the wrist, ankle and spinal column the skeleton
go to the dance?
Bone Composition 2/3 mineral matter

1/3 organic matter
Bone Functions 1. Supporting the body by giving it shape and strength

2. Surrounding and protecting internal organs
3. Providing a frame to which muscles can attach
He didn’t have the guts.
4. Allowing body movement
5. Producing red and white blood cells
6. Storing Calcium
Skull Skeleton of the head or facial skeleton
Encloses and protects the brain and primary sensory organs
Consists of 8 bones of the cranium and 14 bones of the facial skeleton
Describe in Your Own Words

The Cranium
Frontal Extends from the top of the eyes to the top of the head; forms the forehead
Parietal 2 bones that form the crown and upper sides of the head
Occipital Forms the back of the skull, indenting above the nape area
Temporal 2 bones located on either side of the head, directly above the ears and below the parietal
Sphenoid Located behind the eyes and nose and connects all bones of the cranium
Ethmoid Spongy bone between the eyes that forms part of the nasal cavity
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smartNOTES
Label the 1. Frontal

Bones of the
2-3. Parietal
Cranium
4. Occipital
5-6. Temporal
7. Sphenoid
8. Ethmoid
Facial Skeleton 14 bones compose the facial skeleton
9 bones involved in massage

Mandible Lower jaw; largest bone of the facial skeleton
Maxillae 2 bones of the upper jaw
Zygomatic 2 bones that form the upper cheek and bottom of the eye socket; malar
Lacrimal 2 smallest bones of facial skeleton; form front part of inner, bottom wall of eye socket
Nasal 2 bones that join to form the

bridge of the nose
Label the 1. Mandible

Bones of the
2. Maxillae
Facial Skeleton
3. Zygomatic
4. Lacrimal
5. Nasal
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smartNOTES
Chapter 5 Anatomy Basic Body Systems Pages 139, 142
Neck Bones
Cervical Vertebrae 7 bones that form the top part of the spinal column
Hyoid U-shaped bone in the throat; “Adam’s apple”; only bone not connected to another bone
Label the Neck 1-7. Cervical vertebrae

Bones 8. Hyoid
Why are
skeletons usually
so calm?
Back, Chest and
Shoulder Bones
Thorax Chest; bony cage composed of the spine, sternum and ribs
Protects the heart, lungs and other internal organs
Thoracic Vertebrae Spine
Nothing gets under their skin.

Clavicle Collarbone; forms the area from the throat
to the shoulder
Décolleté Upper chest area
Scapula Large, flat bone; extends from middle of the back

to joint where it attaches to the clavicle
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Chapter 5 Anatomy Basic Body Systems Page 142
Label the Back, 1. Thoracic vertebrae

Chest and Shoulder
2. Sternum
Bones
3-14. Ribs
15. Clavicle
16. Scapula
Arm, Wrist
and Hand Bones
Humerus Largest bone of the upper arm; extends from elbow to shoulder
Radius Small bone on the thumb side of the lower arm
Ulna Bone located on the little finger side of the lower arm
Carpals 8 small bones held together by ligaments to form the wrist (carpus)
Metacarpals 5 long, thin bones that form the palm of the hand
Phalanges 14 bones that form the digits (fingers); each finger has 3, while the thumb has 2
1. Humerus
2. Radius
3. Ulna
4. Carpals
5. Metacarpals
6. Phalanges
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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n Skeletal
System
(Anterior)
Frontal
Label the
anterior view of Parietal
the skeletal system Temporal
Maxillae Zygomatic
Mandible
Clavicle
Humerus
Sternum
Radius Ulna
Carpals
Metacarpals Phalanges
Major
Trochanter Pubis
Femur
Patella
Tarsals
Metatarsals
Phalanges
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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n Skeletal
System
(Posterior)
Label the
posterior view of Parietal Bone
the skeletal system Skull
Occipital Bone
Cervical Vertebrae
Clavicle
Scapula
Humerus
Ribs
Olecranon Process
Vertebral Column Ulna

Radius
Carpals Ilium
Sacrum Thumb
Metacarpals
First Digit
Coccyx
Ischium Second Digit
Third Digit
Fourth Digit
Femur
Tibia
Fibula
Calcaneus
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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n Muscular
System
Muscles Fibrous tissues that contract when stimulated by messages from
the nervous system to produce movement
More than 500 large and small muscles in the body = 40% of body’s weight
Myology Study of the structure, function and diseases of the muscles
Muscular Functions
M Movement
A Attachment
P Protection
S Shape
3 Types of
Muscle Tissue
STRIATED NON-STRIATED CARDIAC

Voluntary Involuntary Involuntary
Respond to Respond automatically Muscle of the heart
commands regulated to control body itself
by will functions of internal Only muscle of its type
organs in the body
Some muscles may function as voluntary and involuntary (e.g. eye blinking)
Esthetician’s The voluntary muscles of head, face, neck, arms & hands
Primary Concern
anterior
nSpecial Terminology n levator n superioris n dilator
in front of lifts up located above or is larger opens, expands
n posterior n depressor n inferioris

behind or in back of draws down located below or is smaller
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3 Parts of a Muscle
Origin Nonmoving (fixed) portion of the muscle attached to bones or other
fixed muscles; term “skeletal muscle” refers to the part of the muscle attached to bone
Belly Midsection of the muscle, between the two attached sections
Insertion Portion of the muscle joined to movable attachments such as bones, movable
muscles, or skin
1. Origin
Label the 2. Belly
3 Parts of
3. Insertion
a Muscle
Muscle Movement Produced through contraction (tightening) and extension (relaxing)

During contraction, insertion moves while origin stays fixed
All muscles are attached at both ends by either bone or another muscle
Tendons Bands of fibrous tissue that attach the muscle to the bones
Allow bones to move when muscles contract and expand
Ligaments Dense, strong bands of fibrous tissue that connect the bones to each other
Methods of n Massage
Muscular
n Electric current (high-frequency and faradic current)
Stimulation
n Light rays (infrared rays and ultraviolet rays)
n Heat rays (heating lamps and heating caps)
n Moist heat (steamers, warm steam towels)
n Nerve impulses (through nervous system)
n Chemicals (certain acids and salts)
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Scalp and Face Primary interest to the skin care specialist when performing facial services
Muscles Muscles affected by massage manipulated from insertion to origin (“following the
facial line”); light facial massage should follow the muscle line
Scalp Muscles
Epicranius Occipito-frontalis
Broad muscle that covers the scalp
Formed by two muscles (frontalis and occipitalis) joined by the aponeurosis tendon
Frontalis Extends from the forehead to the top of the skull; raises eyebrows or draws scalp forward
Occipitalis Located at the nape of the neck; draws the scalp back
Label the Scalp 1. Frontalis

Muscles
2. Occipitalis
Ear Muscles
Auricularis Anterior Located in front of the ear
Auricularis Superior Located above the ear
Auricularis Posterior Located behind the ear
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Chapter 5 Anatomy Basic Body Systems Page 145-146
Label the Ear

Muscles
1. Auricularis anterior
2. Auricularis superior
3. Auricularis posterior
Eye and Nose What did

Muscles one eye say to the
other eye?
Corrugator Located under the eyebrows; controls the eyebrows,
drawing them in and downward
Levator Palpebrae Located above the eyelids; functions to raise the eyelids
Superioris
There is
something
Orbicularis Oculi Circles the eye socket; functions to close the eyelid between us
that smells.
Procerus Located between the eyebrows across the bridge of the nose;
draws brows down and wrinkles area across the bridge of the nose
Nasal Muscles Nasalis; posterior dilatator naris; anterior dilatator naris; depressor
septi; control contraction and expansion of the nostrils
Label the Eye and 1. Corrugator

Nose Muscles
2. Levator palpebrae superioris
3. Orbicularis oculi
4. Procerus
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Mouth Muscles
Oris Obicularis Circles the mouth; responsible for contracting, puckering and wrinkling the
lips (as in kissing or whistling)
Quadratus Labii 3 parts; located above the upper lip, raises nostrils and upper lip;
Superioris expresses distaste
Quadratus Labii Located below the lower lip; pulls lower lip down or to side, as in sarcasm
Inferioris
Mentalis Located at the tip of the chin; pushes lower lip up; wrinkles the chin;
expresses doubt
Risorius Located at the corner of the mouth; draws the mouth up & out, as in grinning
Caninus Located above the corners of the mouth; raises angle of mouth, as in snarling
Triangularis Located below the corners of mouth; draws corners down; expresses depression
Zygomaticus Located outside the corners of mouth; draws mouth up & back, as in laughing
Buccinator Located between jaws and cheek; compresses cheek to release air, as in blowing
1. Oris obicularis
Mouth Muscles 2. Quadratus labii superioris
Label the Mouth 3. Quadratus labii inferioris
Muscles 4. Mentalis
5. Risorius
6. Caninus
7. Triangularis
8. Zygomaticus
9. Buccinator
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Mastication,
Neck and Upper
Back Muscles
Mastication Muscles
Temporalis Located above and in front of the ear

Performs both opening and closing the jaw, as in chewing (mastication)
Masseter Covers the hinge of the jaw; aids in closing the jaw, as in chewing
Neck and Upper
Back Muscles
Platysma Extends from tip of chin to shoulders and chest; depresses lower jaw (sadness)
Sternocleido Extends along the side of the neck from the ear to the collarbone; causes
Mastoideus
the head to move from side to side and up and down (nodding)
Trapezius and Cover the back of the neck and upper back; draw the head back, rotate the
Latissimus Dorsi
shoulder blades and control swinging of the arms
Label the
1. Temporalis
Mastication, Neck
and Upper Back 2. Masseter
Muscles 3. Platysma
4. Sternocleido mastoideus
5. Trapezius
5a. Trapezius
Shoulder, Chest 5b. Latissimus dorsi
and Arm
Muscles
Pectoralis Major and Extend across the front of the chest; assist in the swinging of the arms
Pectoralis Minor
Serratus Anterior Located under the arm; helps in lifting the arm and in breathing
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Deltoid Covers the shoulder; triangular-shaped; lifts the arm or turns it
Bicep Primary muscle in the front of the upper arm; raises the forearm, bends the elbow and
turns the palm of the hand down
Tricep Extends the length of the upper arm posteriorly; controls forward movement of the forearm
Supinator Runs parallel to the ulna; turns the palm of the hand up
Pronator Runs across the front of the lower part of the radius and the ulna; turns the palm of the
hand downward and inward
Flexor Ulnaris Located mid-forearm, on the inside of the arm; bends the wrist and closes the fingers
Extensor Radialis Located mid-forearm, on the outside of the arm; straightens the fingers and wrist
Label the Shoulder,

Chest and Arm
1a. Pectoralis major
Muscles
1b. Pectoralis minor
2. Serratus anterior
3. Deltoid
4. Bicep
5. Tricep
6. Supinator
7. Pronator
8. Flexor
9. Extensor
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Muscular
System
(Anterior)
Label the anterior

view of the
Orbicularis Oculi
muscular system
Masseter
Orbicularis Oris
Trapezius
Sternocleidomastoid
Deltoid
Pectoralis Major
Biceps
Serratus Anterior
Latissimus Dorsi
Brachio-Radialis
Flexor Carpi Radialis Transverse
Flexor Carpi Ulnaris Abdominis
External Rectus
Oblique Abdominis
Rectus Femoris
Sartorius
Vastus Lateralis
Tibialis Anterior
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Muscular
System
(Posterior)
Label the posterior
view of the
muscular system Occipitalis
Sternocleidomastoid
Trapezius
Seventh Cervical Vertebrae
Deltoid
Teres Minor Infraspinatus
Teres Major
Rhomboid Major
Triceps Brachii
Latissimus Dorsi
Extensors of the
hand and fingers
Gluteus
Maximus
Iliotibial Tract
Adductor Magnus
Gracilis Biceps Femoris
Semitendinosus Hamstrings
Semimembranosus
Gastrocnemius
Calcaneal (Achilles) Tendon

Peroneus Longus Soleus
Peroneus Brevis
Achilles Tendon
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Hand Muscles
Abductors Separate the fingers
Adductors Draw the fingers together
Opponens Located in the palm of the hand; cause the thumb to move toward the
fingers, giving the ability to grasp or make a fist
Label the Hand
Muscles
1. Abductors
2. Adductors
3. Opponens
n The Circulatory Controls circulation of blood and lymph through the body
System 2 interrelated subsystems
Cardiovascular Blood vascular system; includes the heart, arteries, veins and capillaries
System
Responsible for the circulation of blood
Uses arteries, veins and capillaries as blood-carrying vessels
Lymph Vascular Responsible for the circulation of lymph through lymph glands, nodes and vessels
System
The Heart Cone-shaped muscular organ located in the chest cavity; about the size of a fist
Pericardium Tough outer membrane that encases the heart
Left Atrium Upper left chamber of the heart; commonly referred to as the left auricle
Right Atrium Upper right chamber of the heart; commonly referred to as the right auricle
Left Ventricle Lower left chamber of the heart
Right Ventricle Lower right chamber of the heart
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Label the Parts of

the Heart 1. Pericardium
1 2. Right atrium
3
2 3. Left atrium
4 5 4. Right ventricle
5. Left ventricle
Normal Heart Beat 60 - 80 times per minute

Vagus Cranial nerve that regulates the heartbeat
The
Cardiovascular
System
Blood Sticky, salty fluid; circulates through the body and brings nourishment to all
body parts; carries toxins and waste products to the liver and kidneys to be
eliminated; made up of red and white corpuscles, platelets and plasma
(the blood cells that compose the semi-solid part of the blood)
Erythrocytes Red blood cells; carry oxygen and contain hemoglobin
Hemoglobin Attracts oxygen molecules through oxygenation

Bright red blood = oxygen is being carried; scarlet red blood = oxygen is low
Leucocytes White blood cells or white corpuscles; fight off bacteria or other foreign
substances in the body; increase in number when infections invade the body
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Thrombocytes Blood platelets; responsible for the clotting of the blood, starting the process of
coagulation (clotting) when exposed to air or rough surfaces (bruised skin)
Plasma Fluid part of the blood in which red and white blood cells and platelets are
suspended; about 90% water
Blood Vessels Any vessels through which blood circulates in the body
Arteries 3 types of blood vessels:
Tubular, elastic, thick-walled branching vessels; carry blood from the heart to
rest of body; bright red in color due to pure blood (blood containing oxygen) carried
Veins Tubular, elastic, thin-walled branching vessels; carry impure blood from
capillaries to heart; contain cup-like valves to prevent back flow
Positioned closer to outer surface of body than arteries
Capillaries Small vessels; take nutrients and oxygen from arteries to cells
Take waste products from cells to veins
Blood Flow
Through
The Heart
Systematic or Entire process of blood traveling from the heart throughout the body and
General Circulation
back to the heart
Basic Process:
n Oxygen-poor blood enters right auricle through superior vena cava
n Blood is pumped through tricuspid valve to right ventricle
n Blood is pumped into pulmonary artery
n Pulmonary circulation (blood travels to lungs where it is oxygenated)
n Newly oxygenated blood returns to heart and enters left auricle
n Blood is pumped from left auricle to left ventricle by bicuspid or mitral valve
n Blood pumps through left ventricle into aorta
n Blood flows from aorta to arterioles, capillaries, venules and veins;
circulates; returns to superior vena cava and process begins again
n Blood returns to superior vena cava
n Process begins again
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Arteries and Veins

of the Face,
Head and Neck
Common Carotid Located on either side of the neck; supply blood to the head, face and neck
Arteries
Internal Carotid Supplies blood to the brain, eyes and forehead

Artery
External Carotid Branches into smaller arteries; supplies blood to the skin and muscles of the head
Artery
Internal Jugular Vein through which blood from the head, face and neck returns
External Jugular Vein through which blood from the head, face and neck returns
Occipital Artery Supplies blood to the back of the head, up to the crown
Posterior Auricular Supplies blood to the scalp above and behind the ears
Superficial Temporal Supplies sides and top of head with blood; branches into five smaller arteries that
supply blood to more precise locations:
n Frontal artery (forehead)
n Parietal artery (crown and sides of head)
n Middle temporal (temples)
n Transverse artery (masseter)
n Anterior auricular (anterior part of the ear)
External Maxillary Facial artery; supplies the lower portion of the face, including mouth and nose
Breaks down into smaller branches with specific destinations as follows:
n Submental artery (chin and lower lip)
n Inferior labial (lower lip)
n Angular artery (sides of the nose)
n Superior labial (upper lip and septum)
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Label the Arteries 1. Common carotid arteries

and Veins of the 2. Internal carotid artery
Face, Head
and Neck 3. External carotid artery
4. Internal jugular vein
5. External jugular vein
6. Occipital
7. Posterior auricular
8. Superficial temporal
9. External maxillary
The Lymph
Vascular
System
Lymph Almost colorless fluid contained in lymphatic vessels; bathes body tissues
Product of the blood system; filters blood by removing toxins (poisons)
Reaches parts of the body not reached by blood
Lymph Nodes Glands that filter out toxic substances, like bacteria, and add antibodies to
the fluid; swollen or tender = infection; over 100 in the body; act as barriers to
infection from one part of the body to another
n The Nervous Coordinates and controls the overall operation of the human body
System Transmits and responds to both internal and external stimuli
Neurology Study of the nervous system
The Brain Located in the cranium; on the average, weighs between 44 and 48 ounces
CEREBRUM PONS
Upper front responsible for Connects other parts of the
mental activity brain to the spinal cord
CEREBELLUM MEDULLA OBLONGATA

Responsible for control of Controls breathing and heart function;
muscle movement most vital part of the brain
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Brain Subsystems 1. Central or cerebrospinal nervous system

2. Peripheral nervous system
3. Autonomic nervous system
Primary Brain, spinal cord and nerves

Components
The Central Cerebrospinal nervous system; composed of the brain and spinal cord
Nervous Responsible for all involuntary and voluntary body action
System
Spinal Cord Composed of long nerve fibers; originates in base of brain and extends to base
of spine; holds 31 pairs of spinal nerves
The Peripheral Composed of sensory and motor nerves that extend from brain and spinal cord to
Nervous System voluntary muscles of the body as well as the surface of the skin
Carries sensory information sent to the brain by the ears, eyes, nose and tongue
The Autonomic Physically part of the central nervous system

Nervous System Operates the respiratory, digestive, circulatory, excretory, endocrine and
reproductive systems; responsible for all involuntary body functions

(breathing, blinking, sweating & digesting)
The autonomic nervous system consists of two subsystems:

1. Sympathetic nervous system – accelerates heart rate, constricts
blood vessels and raises blood pressure
2. Parasympathetic nervous system – slows the heart rate, dilates
blood vessels and lowers blood pressure
Homeostasis State of balance achieved through the opposing functions of the sympathetic and para-
sympathetic nervous systems
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Nerve Cells Nerve cell, or neuron, has a nucleus, cytoplasm and membrane
Dendrites Short fibers that extend from nerve cells; receive the messages from adjacent neurons
Axons Processes; long and short threadlike fibers that extend from nerve cells
Synapses Junctions across which nerve impulses pass; nerve terminals located at
the end of each axon; connect the neurons to muscles, organs or other nerve
cells; responsible for sending messages in the form of nerve impulses
Label the Parts of 1. Dendrites

the Nerve Cell
2. Axons/Processes
3. Synapses
Types of Nerves Nerves or nerve tissues carry information to and from the brain
Nerves are classified according to the direction in which they carry information
Reflex Action Interaction of sensory and motor nerves
Sensory (Afferent) Carry messages to brain and spinal cord; determine senses
Nerves
Motor (Efferent) Carry messages from brain to muscles; cause muscles to contract or expand
Nerves
Sensory-Motor Large nerves that perform both sensory and motor functions
(Mixed) Nerves
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Cranial Nerves 12 pairs of nerves that originate in the brain; connect brain with other parts of body
(face, head and neck); classified as sensory, motor or mixed
Fill in the blanks found in each area below.
Number Name Type Controls:
First Olfactory Sensory Sense of smell
Second Optic Sensory Sense of sight
Third Oculomotor Motor Motion of eye
Fourth Trochlear Motor Motion of eye
Fifth Trifacial Sensory Sensations of face,

tongue and teeth
Sixth Abducent Motor Motion of eye
Seventh Facial Motor Motion of face, scalp,

neck, ear, tongue
Eighth Acoustic Sensory Sense of hearing
Ninth Glossopharyngeal Mixed Sense of taste
Tenth Vagus Mixed Motion of ear, pharynx,

larynx, heart, lungs and esophagus
Eleventh Accessory Motor Motion of neck muscles
Twelfth Hypoglossal Motor Motion of the tongue
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Nerves and Nerves of the face, head and neck may be stimulated or soothed during facial
Massage massage; manipulations can stimulate sensitive nerve tissues
Methods to n Massage
Stimulate Nerve n Electric current (high-frequency and faradic current)
Tissues
n Light rays (infrared rays and ultraviolet rays)
n Heat rays (heating lamps and heating caps)
n Moist heat (steamers, warm steam towels)
n Nerve impulses (through nervous system)
n Chemicals (certain acids and salts)
Face, Head and

Neck Nerves
Trifacial Nerve Chief sensory nerve of the face; largest of the cranial nerves
Transmits facial sensations to brain and controls muscles movements
of chewing; divides into three main branches
Ophthalmic Branch Main nerve branch to top 1/3 of the face
Supraorbital Extends to skin of upper eyelid, eyebrow, forehead and scalp
Supratrochlear Extends to skin of upper side of nose and between eyes
Nasal Extends to tip and lower side of nose
Maxillary Branch Main nerve branch to middle 1/3 of the face
Zygomatic Extends to side of forehead, temple and upper cheek
Infraorbital Extends to lower eyelid, side of nose, upper lip and mouth
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Mandibular Branch Main nerve branch to lower 1/3 of face
Auriculo Temporal Extends to ear and area from top of head to temple
Mental Extends to lower lip and chin
Facial Nerve Seventh cranial nerve; primary motor nerve of the face; emerges from
brain at lower part of ear; 6 main branches
Posterior Auricular Extends to the muscles behind and below the ear
Temporal Extends to muscles of temple, side of forehead, eyebrow, eyelid and upper cheek
Zygomatic Extends to upper muscles of the cheek
Buccal Extends to the muscles of the mouth
Mandibular Extends to the muscles of the chin and lower lip
Cervical Extends to muscles on the side of the neck; other cervical nerves originating
in the spinal cord with branches into the scalp and neck:
Greater Occipital Cervical nerve extending up back of scalp to the top of the head
Lesser Occipital Cervical nerve extending into muscles at the back of the skull
Greater Auricular Cervical nerve extending into side of neck and external ear
Cervical Cutaneous Cervical nerve extending into side and front of neck to the breastbone
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Label the Face,

Head and
Neck Nerves
1. Supraorbital 10. Zygomatic

2. Supratrochlear 11. Buccal
3. Nasal 12. Mandibular
4. Zygomatic 13. Cervical
5. Infraorbital 14. Greater occipital
6. Auriculo temporal 15. Lesser occipital
7. Mental 16. Greater auricular
8. Posterior auricular 17. Cervical cutaneous
9. Temporal
Arm and Hand All are mixed nerves; transmit sensations to brain & carry impulses from brain to
Nerves muscles; 4 primary nerves in arm/hand:
Ulnar Nerve Extends down the little finger side of the arm into palm of the hand
Radial Nerve Extends down the thumb side of the arm into back of the hand
Median Nerve Extends down the mid-forearm into the hand
Digital Nerve Extends into the fingers of the hand
Label the Arm 1. Ulnar

and Hand Nerves 2. Radial
3. Median
4. Digital
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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n The Digestive
System
Digestion Process 1. Food is ingested; enzymes secreted by the salivary glands begin
breaking it down
2. Food travels through the pharynx and esophagus into the stomach by
peristalsis (a twisting and turning motion of the esophagus)
3. In the stomach, hydrochloric acids and other enzymes further break
down food
4. Food passes from stomach to small intestine; the assimilation of nutrients
begins
5. Nutrients are absorbed by the villi and transported through circulatory
system
6. Undigested food passes into large intestine (colon) and is stored for
elimination
Salivary Glands Break down the food
Pharynx Passage to the stomach and lungs
Esophagus Passage between pharynx and stomach
Stomach Organ where digestion occurs
Small intestine Begins the assimilation of nutrients
Large Intestine Colon; stores waste for eventual elimination through anal canal
Digestion Time About nine hours
Label the Parts 1. Salivary glands

of the Digestive
2. Pharynx
System
3. Esophagus
4. Stomach
5. Small intestine
6. Large intestine
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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n The Excretory Eliminates solid, liquid and gaseous waste products from the body
System
Skin Body’s largest organ (covers nearly 20 square feet)

Releases water, carbon dioxide and other waste through the sweat glands
Liver Converts and neutralizes ammonia from circulatory system to urea,
which is then carried to the kidneys for excretion
Kidneys Receive urea from liver; pass urea through small tubelike structures
called nephrons
Nephrons Filter out waste products and water, allowing usable nutrients to be reabsorbed
into blood; excreted waste products travel through ureters and bladder to
be eliminated
n The Respiratory Consists of upper respiratory tract, lower respiratory tract, lungs and thoracic cavity;
System maintains exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in lungs and body tissues
Primary Functions n Inhalation (intake of oxygen to be absorbed into the blood)

n Exhalation (elimination of carbon dioxide by breathing out)
Upper Respiratory Nose, mouth, pharynx and larynx; air enters through the nostrils; mucus
Tract membranes (vibrissae) in the nose filter out dust, dirt and foreign debris;
conchae warm the inhaled air as it passes through the nasal passage
Larynx Contains the vocal cords; connects the pharynx to the trachea
Lower Respiratory Trachea, bronchi and lungs

Tract
Trachea Conducting pathway through which air flows

Bronchi Deliver air directly to the lungs
Lungs Spongy muscles composed of cells into which air enters during inhalation
Diaphragm Muscular organ that separates the chest cavity from the abdomen; expands and
contracts automatically, forcing air into and out of the lungs
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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Label the Parts of

The Respiratory
System
1. Lungs
2. Diaphragm
n The Endocrine Composed of a group of specialized ductless glands that regulate and control the
System growth, reproduction and health of the body and manufacture hormones
Affects hair growth, skin conditions and energy levels
Nutrition plays a key role in this system
n The Responsible for the process by which a living organism procreates

Reproductive
System
Pregnant Clients Hormonal imbalances may influence change in the skin; hormonal
fluctuations can stimulate or hinder androgen activity (can cause acneic
breakouts or clear them up); increased sensitivity to heat, exfoliants and active
ingredients; esthetician should be aware of pregnant client’s comfort level
Chloasma Melasma; hyperpigmentation around the mouth and possibly on forehead and cheeks
The The skin and its layers

n
Integumentary
System
Two Primary Glands 1. Sebaceous glands (oil)

2. Sudoriferous (sweat)
* Both secrete into ducts that deposit their contents onto the skin’s surface
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LE A R N I N G C ON N E CT I ON Memory Jogger
“OLOGY” is the study of something. Define the following ologies.
PHYSIOLOGY The study of the functions of organs and systems of the body
HISTOLOGY The study of structures too small to be seen except through a microscope
OSTEOLOGY The study of bones
MYOLOGY The study of the structure, function and diseases of the muscles
NEUROLOGY The study of the nervous system
DERMATOLOGY The study of the skin
FUNCTION FOLLOWS FORM
In this chapter several important terms describe major functions of the human body.
Can you identify the “action” these terms describe?
FORM FUNCTION
CELLS Form the basic units of life
TISSUES Cover, support & protect body; carry waste or messages; produce motion
ORGANS Perform specific functions within the body
BODY SYSTEMS Perform one or more vital functions for the body
CRANIUM Encloses & protects the brain and primary sensory organs
THORAX Encloses & protects the heart, lungs, and other internal organs
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FORM FUNCTION
LEUKOCYTES Fight bacteria and foreign substances that invade the body
THROMBOCYTES Are responsible for the clotting of blood
ARTERIES Carry pure blood from the heart through the body
VEINS Carry impure blood from the capillaries to the heart
CAPILLARIES Take nutrients and oxygen to cells; remove waste products from cells
CAROTID ARTERIES Supply blood to the face, head and neck
LYMPH SYSTEM Circulates lymph through lymph glands, nodes and vessels
CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM Controls all voluntary and involuntary body action
PERIPHERAL NERVOUS SYSTEM Carries messages to and from the central nervous system
TRIFACIAL NERVE Transmits sensations to the brain for controlling muscles for chewing
AUTONOMIC NERVOUS SYSTEM Is responsible for all involuntary body functions
DIGESTIVE SYSTEM Breaks down food into simpler compounds that can be eliminated
ENZYMES Break down food beginning at ingestion
EXCRETORY SYSTEM Eliminates solid, liquid and gaseous waste products from the body
SKIN Releases water, carbon dioxide and other waste through sweat
LIVER Converts and neutralizes ammonia to urea
KIDNEYS Receive urea and pass it through nephrons
RESPIRATORY SYSTEM Controls inhalation and exhalation
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MEMORY JOGGER
By the Numbers
This chapter has several important numbers and measurements.

Can you recall…? If not, look them up.
NUMBER/MEASUREMENT WHY IMPORTANT
5 The number of primary tissues
8 The number of primary organs
10 The number of vital body systems
11th The number name of the accessory nerve
60-80 beats per minute Normal heart rate
9 hours Time it takes to complete digestion
8 The number of bones in the cranium
14 The number of facial bones
5th The number name of the chief sensory nerve
44-48 ounces Approximate weight of the human brain
31 The number of spinal nerves (pairs) in the spinal cord
7th The number name for the chief motor nerve
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1. Spine 4 Hyoid
2. Collar Bone 1 Thoracic Vertebrae
3. Heart 3 Cardiac Muscle
4. Adam’s Apple 5 Anterior
MATCHING 5. Front 8 Dilator
6. Located above 2 Clavicle

Also
Known As 7. Back 7 Posterior
In this chapter many
terms have a scientific 8. Opens 6 Superioris
name and a common 9. Scalp 9 Epicranium

name. Can you match
the following? Place 10. Kissing Muscle 12 Atrium
the number of the 11. White Blood Cells 16 Thrombocytes

common name in the
space next to the 12. Auricles 14 Erythrocytes
scientific name found 13. Lymph-Vascular System 10 Oris Orbicularis

on the right.
14. Red Blood Cells 13 Lymphatic System
15. Nerve Cells 11 Leucocytes
16. Blood Platelets 15 Neurons
17. Sensory Nerves 17 Afferent Nerves
18. Trifacial Nerve 19 Efferent Nerves
19. Motor Nerves 18 Trigeminal Nerve
20. Vascular 20 Circulatory
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important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed
TALKING POINTS next to each box and then practice talking about your ideas
with others.
1. Cells are the basic units of living matter. A group of cells of the
same kind make up tissues. An example of a tissue is epithelial
tissue, which covers and protects body surfaces and organs.
Organs are composed of two or more different tissues. The Describe in your own
skin, the body’s largest organ, forms the external protective
way the relationship
between cells, tissues,
layer of the body. A system is a group of body organs that,
organs and systems.
together, perform one or more vital functions for the body. Use examples.
Cells Tissues Organs Systems
2.
Draw a chart you can
use to tell others about
blood flow through the
heart to the body and
back.
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1. TRUE FALSE Anatomy is the study of the functions organs and
THE CHALLENGE systems perform.
Now it’s time to see how Physiology is the study of the functions organs and systems perform.
2. TRUE FALSE Metabolism is the chemical process in which cells receive
material. First answer nutrients for growth and reproduction.
the Memory Box that
3. The composition of bones consists of 2/3 mineral matter and 1/3 organic matter.
the Salon Fundamentals™ 4. The bony cage composed of the spine, sternum and twelve ribs is called the:
a. thorax
Esthetics textbook. Check
b. hyoid
c. clavicle
answers and “not yet” for d. vertebrae
5. The cardiovascular or blood vascular system includes the heart, arteries, veins and:
a. cells
record all of your cor- b. lungs
rect responses in the “I c. nerves
Know” column. After d. capillaries
6. How much blood is found in the average adult?
answers, record all of your a. 4-6 pints
corrected responses in the b. 8-10 pints
“I Need to Study” column. c. 12-14 pints
That way you know exactly d. 16-18 pints
what to review before 7. Tubular, elastic, thin-walled branching vessels that carry impure blood from the
continuing in this Guide. capillaries to the heart are called:
a. veins
Directions: Identify b. arteries
whether questions 1 and c. auricles
2 are True or False by d. corpuscles
circling TRUE or FALSE. 8. Which portion of the brain is responsible for thought, emotion and memory?
You can earn an extra a. pons
point for each false b. cerebrum
c. cerebellum
statement you
d. medulla oblongata
Question 3 requires you 9. What system is responsible for all involuntary body functions, such as breathing
to write in an answer and digesting?
a. Central Nervous System
in the blank provided.
b. Peripheral Nervous System
Answers to the questions c. Autonomic Nervous System
found in questions 4 d. Sympathetic Nervous System
through 10 may be
10. Which of the following delivers air directly to the lungs?
selected by circling a, b,
a. the thorax
c, or d below each b. the larynx
statement to indicate your c. the trachea
choice. d. the bronchi
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o not yet

o not yet

. o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
:
o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW…
Using 20 of the terms found in this chapter and a minimum of 10 sentences, write a short story that
includes your newly understood terms. Be creative and at the same time make sure everyone will
understand the area of the body to which you might be referring. An example sentence is shown below to
help spark your creativity. When you have completed your story, share it with a partner and see if he or
she can interpret it back to you with a full understanding.
Sample: As I combed my hair over my temporalis, I realized the incident of hitting the door jam
of the car had left a large bump on my frontalis that extended to my parietal.
My cerebrum must not have been functioning properly when I chose Dead Man’s Run as a beginner
skier. The very sight of the hill made me want to use my orbicularis oculi to pretend it was only
the Bunny Hill, but my levator palpebrae superioris forced me to face reality. As I stood at the top
of the hill, my sensory nerves screamed “No!” and my cardiac muscle pounded with excessive
pulmonary circulation. Seemingly without my control, my cerebellum sent a message to my deltoids,
biceps, and triceps as my flexors caused my phalanges to grip the poles tightly. By an uncontrollable
reflex action, I started my downward ride. As I picked up speed down the hill, I clenched my mandible
as I felt myself begin to lose control. Falling on the icy slope resulted in a disaster for my skeletal
system. I fell directly on my clavicle and injured my right humerus and two metacarpals when I tried
to break my fall. Along with these injuries, I strained every single striated muscle and non-striated
muscle in my entire body.
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knowledge grid
Chapter 5, Anatomy. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase
your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.
KNOW State the seven methods for stimulating muscle tissue.
Answer: 1. Massage 3. Light rays 5. Moist heat 7. Chemicals
2 2. Electric current 4. Dry heat 6. Nerve impulses
COMPREHEND Explain the different functions of erythrocytes, leucocytes and thrombocytes.

Include their common names in your explanation.
Blood Cell Common Name Function
Answer: Erythrocytes red blood cells carry oxygen
Leucocytes white blood cells fight bacteria
Thrombocytes blood platelets clot the blood
Label a sketch of the muscles of the Shoulder, Chest and Arm to include the following:
APPLY pectoralis(major and minor), serratus anterior, deltoid, bicep, tricep, supinator and pronator.
Include a description of the function of each muscle.
Muscle Function
Answer:
1a. Pectoralis major Assists in swinging the arms
1b. Pectoralis minor Assists in swinging the arms
2. Serratus anterior Helps in lifting the arms and assists in

breathing
3. Deltoid Lifts the arm or turns it
4. Bicep Bends the elbow and turns the palm of

the hand down
5. Tricep Controls forward movement of the

forearm
6. Supinator Turns the palm of the hand up
7. Pronator Turns the palm of the hand downward

and inward
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knowledge grid
ANALYZE Distinguish the functions of cells, tissues, organs and body systems.
Answer: Similar cells make up specific tissues. Similar tissues make up specific organs. Related organs make
up body systems.
SYNTHESIZE Construct a 3-column chart summarizing the primary function of the skeletal, muscular, circulatory
and nervous systems. Include in your chart an explanation of why these systems are especially
important to estheticians.
System Function Importance
Answer: Skeletal Provides the framework for the body Knowledge of all body systems gives a
Muscular Moves the body broader context for understanding the
importance of touch and helps develop

Circulatory Circulates blood through the body
beneficial facial massage techniques.
Nervous Sends and receives body messages;
important for facial massage
EVALUATE Support the teaching of anatomy to estheticians. Suggest changes you would make to this chapter to
help students understand anatomy better.
Answer: Estheticians need to understand the structure and function of the various body systems in order to properly
administer services. One change I would like to see is adding even more visuals to the chapter.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. The study of the organs and systems of the body is called:

a. biology
b. anatomy
c. physiology
d. microbiology
2. What are the basic units of life?

a. cells
b. nerves
c. organs
d. tissues
3. Cells vary in size, shape, structure and:

a. color
b. location
c. function
d. distribution
4. What is the control center of the cell’s activities?

a. nucleus
b. cytoplasm
c. protoplasm
d. cell membrane
5. The process by which cells reproduce, dividing in half, is called:

a. mitosis
b. anabolism
c. catabolism
d. metabolism
6. A body’s metabolic rate or speed is dependent upon:

a. exercise
b. eating habits
c. hereditary factors
d. all of the above
7. The process of building up larger molecules from smaller ones is called:

a. mitosis
b. anabolism
c. catabolism
d. indirect division
8. Which type of tissue covers and protects body surfaces and internal organs?
a. nerve tissue
b. liquid tissue
c. muscular tissue
d. epithelial tissue
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Brain Conditioners
9. What is the body’s largest organ?

a. skin
b. brain
c. lungs
d. stomach and intestines
10. A group of body structures and/or organs that performs one or more vital functions
is known as a(n):
a. organ
b. tissue
c. muscle
d. system
11. Which of the following encloses and protects the brain and primary sensory organs?
a. the skull
b. the rib cage
c. the skeleton
d. the spinal cord
12. How many bones make up the cranium?

a. 6
b. 7
c. 8
d. 9
13. Of the fourteen bones that make up the facial skeleton, how many are involved in facial massage?
a. 6
b. 7
c. 8
d. 9
14. The largest bone of the facial skeleton is the lower jaw, known as the:
a. maxillae
b. lacrimal
c. mandible
d. zygomatic
15. The U-shaped bone located in the throat, sometimes called the “Adam’s apple” is the:
a. ulna
b. hyoid
c. occipital
d. zygomatic
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Brain Conditioners
16. The bone that forms the area from the throat to the shoulder is known as the collarbone or:
a. scapula
b. clavicle
c. sternum
d. décolleté
17. The upper chest area is known as the:

a. scapula
b. clavicle
c. sternum
d. décolleté
18. What is the largest bone of the upper arm?

a. ulna
b. radius
c. humerus
d. metacarpals
19. The fourteen bones that form the digits, or fingers, are called:
a. radii
b. carpals
c. phalanges
d. metacarpals
20. Which of the following is the study of the structure, function and diseases of the muscles?
a. myology
b. oncology
c. histology
d. cardiology
21. What type of muscle tissue responds automatically to control various body functions,
including the functions of internal organs?
a. voluntary or striated
b. involuntary or striated
c. voluntary or non-striated
d. involuntary or non-striated
22. Which part of a muscle is nonmoving (fixed) and attached to bones or other nonmoving muscles?
a. belly
b. origin
c. insertion
d. contraction
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Brain Conditioners
23. The midsection of the muscle is called the:

a. belly
b. origin
c. insertion
d. contraction
24. The term meaning “in front of” is:

a. levator
b. anterior
c. inferioris
d. superioris
25. Which of the following terms is defined as “located below or is smaller”?

a. anterior
b. posterior
c. inferioris
d. superioris
26. Muscles are attached at both ends by either:

a. bone or nerves
b. muscles or nerves
c. tendons or muscles
d. bone or another muscle
27. What is the name for the bands of fibrous tissue that attach muscle to bones?
a. nerves
b. muscles
c. tendons
d. ligaments
28. Dense, strong bands of fibrous tissue that connect bones to each other are called:
a. nerves
b. muscles
c. tendons
d. ligaments
29. Which of the following is the broad muscle that covers the scalp?
a. frontalis
b. epicranius
c. epicranium
d. aponeurosis
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Brain Conditioners
30. What is the function of lymph?

a. increases oxygen in the blood
b. increases nutrients in the blood
c. filters the blood by removing toxins
d. removes waste products from the blood
31. Red blood cells (RBC) are also called:

a. lymph
b. leucocytes
c. erythrocytes
d. thrombocytes
32. What is carried by the red blood cells?

a. plasma and lymph
b. oxygen and lymph
c. oxygen and plasma
d. oxygen and hemoglobin
33. Which of the following are responsible for the clotting of blood?
a. lymph
b. leucocytes
c. erythrocytes
d. thrombocytes
34. Tubular, elastic, thick-walled branching vessels that carry pure blood throughout the
body are called:
a. veins
b. auricles
c. arteries
d. corpuscles
35. Which of the following is responsible for all voluntary body action?
a. Circulatory System
b. Central Nervous System
c. Peripheral Nervous System
d. Autonomic Nervous System
36. The structures that receive the messages sent to the nerve cell are called:
a. pons
b. axons
c. neurons
d. dendrites
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Brain Conditioners
37. What controls all three subsystems of the nervous system?

a. brain
b. cerebrum
c. cerebellum
38. The portion of the brain that is responsible for motor function, muscle movement and
balance is the:
a. pons
b. cerebrum
c. cerebellum
39. Which type of nerve determines our senses of smell, sight, touch, hearing and taste?
a. motor nerves
b. efferent nerves
c. sensory nerves
d. sensory-motor nerves
40. How many pairs of nerves originate in the brain?

a. 11
b. 12
c. 13
d. 14
41. What continues to break down food once it has entered the stomach?
a. villi
b. saliva
c. hydrophilic acid
d. hydrochloric acid
42. Where does the undigested food pass for eventual elimination?
a. liver
b. colon
c. stomach
d. small intestine
43. What is the function of the excretory system?

a. eliminates toxins from the body
b. eliminates solid, liquid and gaseous waste from the body
c. recycles solid, liquid and gaseous waste throughout the body
d. all of the above
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Brain Conditioners
44. The liver converts and neutralizes ammonia to:

a. urea
b. urine
c. nephrons
d. carbon dioxide
45. What are the primary functions of the respiratory system?

a. inhalation and exhalation
b. purification and excretion
c. inhalation and purification
d. exhalation and purification
46. The muscular organ that contracts and expands, forcing air into and out of the lungs is called the:
a. larynx
b. trachea
c. pharynx
d. diaphragm
47. Which of the following is the conducting pathway through which air flows?
a. larynx
b. bronchi
c. pharynx
d. trachea
48. Chemical substances manufactured by the glands of the endocrine system are called:
a. cilia
b. enzymes
c. hormones
d. amino acids
49. Which system is responsible for the process by which a living organism procreates?
a. Endocrine System
b. Circulatory System
c. Reproductive System
d. Integumentary System
50. What are the two primary glands of the integumentary system?
a. pituitary and sebaceous
b. pituitary and sudoriferous
c. endocrine and sebaceous
d. sebaceous and sudoriferous
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Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the
FINAL REVIEW page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines to the right, jot down
topics that you still need to review.
1. page 131 26. page 144
2. page 132 27. page 144
3. page 132 28. page 144
4. page 132 29. page 145
5. page 133 30. page 157

31. page 154
6. page 133
7. page 133 32. page 154
8. page 134 33. page 154
9. page 134 34. page 154
10. page 135 35. page 159
11. page 136 36. page 160
12. page 137 37. page 158
13. page 138 38. page 158
14. page 138 39. page 161
15. page 139 40. page 162
16. page 142 41. page 166
17. page 142 42. page 167
18. page 142 43. page 167
19. page 142 44. page 167
20. page 143 45. page 168
21. page 143 46. page 169
22. page 144 47. page 169
23. page 144 48. page 170
24. page 143 49. page 170
25. page 143 50. page 171
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NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Anatomy

found difficult to learn and
suggestions and ideas you
received from friends that
helped make learning this
chapter easier and
more enjoyable.
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6
ELECTRICITY AND
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
VALUE MAIN IDEA
Learning to use specialized electrical As part of your training as a professional

appliances to treat clients is a critical esthetician, you will learn to use electricity to
cleanse skin follicles, induce muscle relaxation,
professional skill and is highly important increase blood circulation and improve your
to the success of any skin care center. clients’ overall skin and muscle tone. This
chapter provides information on the principles
of electricity, including safety precautions for
using electrical currents to treat clients, and the
workings of specialized electrical appliances.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Principles of n Electricity Basics n Define the two forms of electric current.

Electricity n Measurements of Electricity
n Identify the units used to measure
n Electrical Safety
electricity.
n State in your own words the safety
measures to follow when using electrical
appliances.
Electrotherapy n Electrical Currents n Identify the four types of currents
in Esthetics n Light Therapy (modalities) used in electrotherapy.
n Effects of Electrotherapy
n Explain the three effects achieved by using
n Electrotherapy Essentials electricity in esthetic services.
n List the essentials for performing
electrotherapy and light therapy treatments.
Electrical n Skin Analysis Equipment n List and explain the functions of the
Equipment n Cleansing and Toning Equipment various types of electrical equipment that
in Esthetics n Exfoliation Equipment may be used to enhance the results of
n Additional Treatment Equipment related skin care treatments.
n Infection Control and Safety
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smartNOTES
Chapter 6 Electricity and Electrical Equipment Principles of Electricity Pages 175-177
n Electricity Basics
M 1 Define the two forms of electric current
Electricity Energy that produces light, heat, magnetic and chemical changes
Vocabulary of Electricity
Electricity form of energy that produces light, heat, magnetic and chemical changes; travels in a circuit
Electric current flow of electricity along a conductor
Conductor material that allows electricity to flow through it easily
Load technical term for any electrically powered appliance
Insulator material that does not allow the flow of electric current
Amp a unit of electrical strength
Volt a unit of electrical pressure
Ohm a unit of electrical resistance
Watt a measure of how much electrical energy is being used
Electrotherapy the application of electrical currents during treatments to the skin
Electric Current Flow of electrons along a conductor
Direct Current or DC Alternating Current or AC

Constant current in which electrons Rapid oscillating cycle that alternates back
move at an even rate and flow in only and forth, allowing electrons to flow first in
one direction one direction and then in the other
Frequency Number of times current cycling occurs per second

Converter Changes direct current to alternating current
Rectifier Changes alternating current to direct current
Hertz Rating The number of cycles per second that a generator alternates current
Conductor Materials that best transport electricity; silver and copper are best conductors;
other conductors include aluminum, other metals, carbon, water; human body
is good conductor
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smartNOTES
Insulator Material that does not allow current to pass through it

Allows you to handle electricity safely
Silk, plastic, rubber, wood, glass, paper, air, brick, cloth and certain
liquids (alcohol, oil and pure distilled water)
conductor + insulator = electrical cord
Electric Shock Caused by a break in any electrical cord

Generator Machine that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy
n Measurements of
Electricity M 2
unit of electric
Identify the units used to measure electricity
strength
Amp
Amp rating indicates number of electrons flowing through a particular line
Milliampere – measurement (1/1000th of an amp) of power put out by skin
care equipment
unit of electric pressure

Measures the amount of pressure exerted on electrons as they are
Volt being forced or pushed out by the source
Typical household is wired for 110 voltage
220 voltage is used for large motors (clothes dryers, air conditioners)
Ohm unit of electric resistance

Ohm’s rating – resistance to the motion of the electrons through a
conductor
measure of electrical energy used

Watt Blow dryer = 1,000 watts per second Thermal mitts = 40 watts
Light bulb = 25, 40, 60, 100 watts per second Steamer = 600
watts
UL or Underwriter’s Designation that an appliance has been certified

Laboratory
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smartNOTES
n
M 3 State in your own words the safety measures
to follow when using electrical appliances
Electrical Safety Knowing how to prevent electrical accidents requires an understanding of circuits
Circuit Closed path; required for electricity to power an appliance; a path on which the
electricity leaves the source and travels to an appliance
Open Circuit Broken path; when the switch is off
Rheostat Indicates and regulates amount of current flowing through equipment
Load Technical term for any appliance that requires electricity in order to work
Overload and
Short Circuit
Overload More current flows through a line than it is designed to carry

If safety devices fail, lines of the circuit will heat up and may burn
In the event that a fire results from an overload:
n Do not try to extinguish the fire with water
n Turn off the circuit
n Use a fire extinguisher or…
n If fire extinguisher is not available, smother fire immediately with a heavy
towel, rug, or a powder, such as flour or cornstarch
n Call the fire department immediately if the fire is beyond your control
Short Circuit Can occur when a conductor comes in contact with a wire carrying current
to a load; e.g. an electrical appliance is dropped in water
Proper procedure to remove an appliance from water:
1. Make sure your hands are dry
2. Remove the plug from the socket
3. Retrieve the appliance from the water
Power Box Insulated location where the electric current enters a building
Fuse Device that prevents electrical wires from overheating
Contains a fine metal wire that allows current to flow through it
If overload occurs, the fuse will heat up and the wire will melt, breaking
the circuit and cutting the flow of electricity (“blowing a fuse”)
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smartNOTES
Circuit Breaker Breaks the flow of current when an overload occurs; contains two pieces of metal
that make contact with each other to allow the flow of electric current; have
replaced most fuse boxes because they can be reset without needing to be replaced
Grounding Wire Safety device; three-wire system; designed to protect user during
operation of appliances; manufacturer installs special wire into
cord and plug; any appliance requiring this protection has a
three-prong plug; if grounding wire does not exist, body would
receive excess flow of electric current if wire came in contact with outside case
Shock
Electrical Shock Human contact with an electric current resulting in a mild jolt, serious burn
or electrocution; can be as mild as a quick jolt and tingle or as painful as a minor burn
2 Types of Shock
Local Shock General Shock
Passes through small part of body; can cause burns & Passes through the nervous system; causes the heart to stop,
muscle contractions breathing to cease and muscles to convulse (electrocution)
If burn is major, see physician immediately; if burn is minor, Dial 9-1-1 and have a trained person start CPR
keep affected area immersed in cold water and pack with ice (cardiopulmonary resuscitation)
To free someone who is being shocked:
Safety n Knock person out of the circuit using an insulator (broom, pail, etc.)
n Unplug appliance; stay out of circuit
n Turn off all circuit breakers at power box
Ground Fault Circuit Installed where electricity could come in contact with water; can sense
Interrupter (GFCI) current leakage and interrupt power if there is contact with water
Fire
Fire Prevention n Use and store flammable materials properly
n Post and comply with local fire codes
n Inspect fire safety devices such as extinguishers, etc.
n Dispose of or repair electrical equipment with frayed or exposed wires
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Fire Safety In event of a fire:
n Immediately pull cord from socket while wearing n Stay low to ground and exit immediately
protective covering (rubber gloves) n Check all doors for temperature and signs of
n Immediately locate and use fire extinguisher active fire before opening; if hot do not open
In the event of being trapped in a smoke-filled n Open door slowly after feeling it
room or building: n Dial 9-1-1; if trapped, line the bottom of door
n Open windows for air with wet towels; remain calm until rescued
Fire Extinguishers n Necessary part of any skin care center

n Electrical fire cannot be put out with water
n Should be installed four feet from floor in areas with potential hazards & near exit
Safety
n Position in areas where chemicals are kept, kitchen and where easily accessible
Fire Extinguisher n Check that pressure indicator is green (ready zone)

Inspection n Ensure lock pin is firmly in place
n Check that discharge nozzle is free from obstruction
n Check unit for dents, corrosion or evidence of tampering
To Operate Fire P Pull the pin on the handle

Extinguisher A Aim hose at base of fire, from six feet away
S Squeeze handle to begin flow of the chemical
S Spray chemical discharge back and forth over fire
If there is doubt that the extinguisher will function properly,
call the local fire department
Why is electricity a critical resource in the skin care center? Electricity is a critical resource in the skin care
center because it is used to cleanse skin follicles, induce muscle relaxation, increase blood circulation and
improve overall skin and muscle tone.
1. A material that allows electricity to flow through it easily is called a(n) conductor.
L E A R NI NG
2. A material that does not allow the flow of electric current is called a(n) insulator.
C ONNE C T I ON 3. A reusable device that breaks the flow of current when an overload occurs is called
a(n) circuit breaker.
Electrical Fill-Ins 4. A safety device called a three-wire system is also known a(n) grounding wire.
Fill in the correct answers in the blank
spaces to complete the sentences. 5. Human contact with an electric current causes a(n) shock.
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M 4 Identify the four types of currents (modalities) used in electrotherapy
Electrotherapy Treatments Facial treatments that require the use of electricity

n Electrical Currents Modality; flow of electricity along a conductor – equal to ratio of voltage to resistance
Used in electrotherapy to create certain effects on skin
Galvanic Current Only constant direct current of low voltage and high amperage that produces
an electrochemical effect; also known as ionization
Used to force water-soluble skin care products into the skin
Causes products to penetrate deeper into layers of epidermis
Requires rectifier to convert alternating current to direct current
Phoresis Actual process of forcing water-based solution into the skin by applying
Galvanic Current to the solution
In the past more commonly known as a method of skin bleaching
2 types (Anaphoresis and Cataphoresis)
Anaphoresis
Anaphoresis Allows ALKALINE solution to enter skin when assisted by

Galvanic Current and the negative pole of an electrode
Treatment Desincrustation is a treatment in which blockages in the skin are BROKEN DOWN, also
known as deep pore cleansing; solutions used are alkaline and have a negative charge.
The esthetician holds the negative electrode and the client holds the positive electrode.
Benefits n Softens tissue

n Expands tissues
n Increases blood flow and sensitivity
Cataphoresis
Anaphoresis
Cataphoresis Allows ACIDIC solution to enter skin when assisted by
Galvanic Current and the positive pole of an electrode
Treatment Iontophoresis is a treatment in which deeper layers of epidermis are BUILT UP or

nourished; water-soluble products used have positive charge; most often performed
following extraction and prior to massage. The esthetician holds the positive electrode
and the client holds the negative electrode.
Benefits n Penetrates specific product into the skin n Soothes sensory nerve endings
n Tightens and firms tissue and decreases sensitivity
n Contracts follicle walls n Creates an antibacterial effect
on skin
n Constricts blood vessels and
decreases blood flow n Eases post-extraction irritation
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Chapter 6 Electricity and Electrical Equipment Electrotherapy in Esthetics Pages 187-189
Polarity Having opposite poles in an electric current

Poles of same charge repel; poles of opposite charge attract
Test for Polarity 1. Separate the two electrodes and submerge the tips only into a glass of water
2. Keep the tips separated; turn up Galvanic Current slowly; negative electrode
will create more and smaller bubbles than positive electrode
Electrodes Act as negatively or positively charged particles in treatment solutions
Active Electrode Inactive Electrode

Use of Electrodes Held by esthetician Held by client
Cathode Negatively charged electrode; usually black in color; has large “N” or negative sign
Anode Positively charged electrode; usually colored red; has large “P” or positive sign
Polarity Changer Switches current from negative to positive or positive to negative
Skin care products have a positive or negative charge
Electrode in Positive Mode = Electrode in Negative Mode =

Acidic Reaction Alkaline Reaction
High Frequency Telsa Current; an alternating (or oscillating) current that can be adjusted
Current to different voltages to produce heat; makes use of glass electrodes filled with a
gas – either argon or neon; argon used on acne-type lesions; argon gives off a
purple color (violet ray); neon used on normal to oily type skin for improved
penetration or increased circulation; current ignites; light energy forms electricity
Ozone Gas created when oxygen naturally present in air around electrode is electrified;
has a germicidal, healing and drying effect
Sparking n Creates a spark gap; narrow space between electrode and skin used to provide
germicidal, healing and drying effects during High Frequency treatments
n More powerful ozone effect created by slowly lifting the electrode away from skin
CAUTION
!!! n More oxygen is allowed into the area; therefore, more ozone is produced
n Typically, the argon gas electrode is used
n Too much ozone can actually damage the tissue. If damage occurs, the skin
will heal leaving brown marks; do not lift more than 1/4 inch (.75cm) from skin
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High Frequency Procedures include Direct and Indirect High Frequency

Direct High Frequency Skin care specialist holds electrode, applies directly to client’s face
Uses formation of ozone to produce germicidal effect on skin; treats oily skin
with overall congestion and spot treats blemishes by creating a drying effect
Benefits of Using n Stimulates surface tissues
Direct High Frequency: n Creates heat on surface of skin
n Increases circulation and blood flow

n Dries surface of skin and excess sebum within pores
n Heals existing papules and pustules
n Delivers germicidal effect and kills bacteria on skin
Indirect High Frequency Aids in penetration of product and assists in massage for mature skin
Esthetician passes glass electrode to client before activating current to avoid shock
Client holds indirect electrode
Benefits of Using n Warms tissue

Indirect High Frequency
n Stimulates sebum production and secretion
n Induces relaxation
Faradic Current Alternating current interrupted to produce a mechanical, non-chemical reaction

Stimulates the motor point of muscle tissue with aid of machine versus
physical body movements
Benefits of Faradic Current n Soothing and relaxing

n Believed to help preserve muscle tone
Direct Faradic Esthetician places both electrodes on client’s skin; electrodes should never
touch one another; current is turned on and slowly increased after electrodes
are in place; current travels through motor nerves between two electrodes,
causing muscle stimulation; electric current is gradually decreased and turned off,
before removing electrode
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Indirect Faradic Most frequently used application of Faradic Current electrotherapy

Esthetician wears wristband with moistened electrode; second electrode
wrapped in moist cotton held by client or placed on client’s lower neck between
shoulders; esthetician’s fingers are placed on face before current is turned on;
current gradually decreased and turned off before removing fingers
Sinusoidal Current Alternating current that produces a mechanical effect; preferred for middle-aged
to older clients; treatments generally last no longer than 20 minutes; treatments
performed using indirect method only; deeper penetration, greater stimulation,
less irritation
Electrical Current
Guidelines
Precautionary measures for use of electrical current:

n Check outlets to make sure there are no loose-fitting plugs
n Cords should be in good condition with no frays or cracks
n Make sure the plugs fit the outlet
n If light switches or outlets feel warm, do not use them
n Electrodes should never touch each other
n If you use a product during a treatment, be sure the product contains no alcohol
n Make sure the current is off before beginning direct or indirect application
n Direct application: DO NOT turn current on until after client is holding an electrode and
skin care specialist is holding the other electrode against client’s skin
n Indirect Application: DO NOT turn current on until after the client is holding electrode
and esthetician has placed tips of fingers against skin on client’s face
n Turn the current down and off BEFORE removing the electrode from contact with the client
n Do not exceed six minutes per treatment for Galvanic Current
n Do not exceed five minutes per treatment for Direct High Frequency
n Do not exceed seven minutes per treatment for Indirect High Frequency
n Do not exceed 30 minutes per treatment for Sinusoidal
n Always read manufacturer’s directions and follow them carefully
n Remove all jewelry and have clients remove all their jewelry prior to treatments
n Esthetician and client should avoid contact with metal during any treatment
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Chapter 6 Electricity and Electrical Equipment Electrotherapy in Esthetics Page 194
Contraindications for Do not perform treatments if client has any of the following conditions:
Using Electrotherapy n Pregnancy
n Epilepsy
n Diabetes
n Metal plates, pins in body or dental braces
n Heart condition and/or a pacemaker
n High blood pressure
n Open cuts, sores or abrasions
n Dilated capillaries
Caution should be exercised if client uses strong acne medication, has
hypersensitive skin, is claustrophobic or expresses a loss of skin sensation
Imagine you were asked to give See pages 185-194

a talk about estheticians to a
community group. Briefly explain
the benefits of electrically
induced skin care treatments.
L E A RNI NG C ONNECTION Electrical Fill-Ins

Fill in the correct answers in the blank spaces to complete the sentences.
1. The application of special currents (or modalities) that have certain effects on the skin is called electrotherapy .
2. The four types of current you need to be familiar with include Galvanic, High Frequency, Faradic and Sinusoidal .
3. A current conductor that is used to bring the current from the appliance to the client’s skin is called a(n) electrode .
4. A special appliance used to convert alternating current to direct current is called a(n) rectifier .
5. The use of a negative electrode with a negatively charged solution to perform desincrustration is called anaphoresis.
6. A procedure used to treat clogged pores and remove blackheads is called desincrustation .
7. The use of a positive electrode with a positively charged solution to perform iontophoresis is called cataphoresis .
8. High Frequency Current is also referred to as Tesla Current .
9. When the skin care specialist uses an electrode in direct contact with the client’s skin, it is referred to as
Direct High Frequency .
10. The formation of ozone to produce a germicidal effect on the skin is known as Direct High Frequency .
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n Light Therapy Produces beneficial effects on body through light rays or waves
Combination of radiation & heat energy creates light waves
Radiation Transfer of heat through an empty air space (a vacuum)
Heat Energy Movement of electrons
Electromagnetic Radiation Waves of electrons formed when heat energy is transferred by radiation
Wavelength Measurement from the crest of one wave to the crest of the next
The shorter the wavelength, the more energy carried by the wave
Short wavelength – x-rays
Longer wavelength – television & radio broadcasts
Electromagnetic Spectrum Range of all the wavelengths that can be produced by radiant energy
Visible Light Portion of electromagnetic spectrum that humans can see

Range of wavelengths that produces visible color
Business owners need to plan a balance of incandescent & fluorescent lighting in
skin care center design
White Light
White Light
Combination light
Can be broken into wavelengths by a
prism (3-sided glass object)
2 Types: Fluorescent & Incandescent
Fluorescent Light
Economical & long-lasting light source
Fluorescent Light Can create “blue” tones or “cool” casts
in objects it lights
Incandescent Light
Provided by ordinary light bulb
Incandescent Light Produces “red” tones or “warm” casts
on objects it lights
Closest substitute for natural sunlight
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Invisible Light Used by estheticians to produce physical effects in the skin; Not visible to human eye –
can be overexposed in natural sunlight
Infrared Rays Invisible rays; slightly longer than wavelengths that produce visible light rays;
seen as red; can penetrate all layers of skin; affects muscle, bone, nerves and joints
Ultraviolet Rays Invisible rays slightly shorter than wavelengths that produce the visible light rays;
seen as violet
Infrared Light Produces heat (Infrared bulbs can be purchased for facial & body treatments)
Benefits of using infrared light: Placed 30”
n Increases circulation & skin gland secretions (76 cm)
from face Eye
n Relaxes muscles pads
Exposure time
must
5-15 minutes
n Stimulates cell and tissue activity be
worn
Ultraviolet Light UV: actinic or cold rays
Produces positive or negative effects on skin, depending on exposure time
Small doses of UV light produce Vitamin D, which promotes healing
Overexposure can result in tissue destruction or skin cancer
UV rays are measured in nanometers
3 Types of Rays: UVC rays Beyond ozone layer; have little effect on skin exposure
UVC, UVB and UVA Shortest of UV rays in length ranging from 200 - 290 nm (nanometers)
UVB rays Exposed to most frequently from natural sun: range from 280 - 320 nm;
stimulate melanin production; Shorter than UVA but 1000 times
more powerful than UVA rays; Rays that cause sunburn (burning rays)
Place lamp UVA rays Longest UV rays; most frequently used in tanning booths
30” (76 cm)
Takes large doses of UVA rays and added time to burn skin
from treated
areas Ability to penetrate beyond epidermis to destroy protein substances,
collagen and elastin fibers; necessary for synthesis of vitamins
UV light can be used effectively during facial massage
UV Light
Client’s skin should be cleansed prior to ultraviolet light use
Exposure time
Both client and esthetician should wear protective eyewear
1 to 5 minutes
SAD Seasonal Affective Disorder; form of depression more
Up to 15
prevalent when there are fewer hours of light minutes for
larger areas 30”
to 36” or
76 to 91 cm
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M
n
5 Explain the three effects achieved using electricity in esthetic services
Effects of Most common are thermal, mechanical or magnetic and electrochemical

Electrotherapy Thermal or Heating Effects
Thermal Effects n Friction generated from rubbing your hands together
n Every conductor has some resistance to the flow of current moving through it
n The more resistance to the flow the more “drag” or “friction” in the
current (results in increased heat)
n Mild heat relaxes muscles and increases blood circulation
n Intense heat destroys cells and tissues (pyrolysis-thermal breakdown of skin)
Thermal Energy – Can Be Transferred In One of Three Ways
n Conduction – The transfer of heat via direct contact
n Convection – The transfer of heat via liquid or gas
n Radiation – The transfer of heat through a vacuum (empty space)
Mechanical Effects
Mechanical or Magnetic Effects
n Similar to repulsion and attraction caused by magnets
n Alternating current flows first in one direction & then the other
n When current travels through the conductor and into the magnetic
Electrochemical Effects field of the motor, a push-pull effect is created, causing a motor to turn
Electrochemical Effects
n Created when electric current travels through a water-based solution and
onto the body
n Produces either relaxing or stimulating effects
n Galvanic Current treatments produce electrochemical effects
n
M 6
Electrotherapy
Essentials
List the essentials for performing electrotherapy and light therapy treatments
Electrode Conductor used to bring current from an appliance to client’s skin

Only safe contact point through which current can pass to the client
In your opinion which of the four currents used in electrotherapy treatments will you use most often?
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L E A RNI NG C ONN ECTION
What’s the Benefit?
Fill the correct answers in the blank shapes under the title ‘Benefit’ to identify the
benefit of using the various electrodes used by skin care professionals. The first
shape in each set represents the name of the electrode, the second shape gives
the description of the electrode and the third shape that you will be completing
will list the benefit of using the electrode.
NAME DESCRIPTION BENEFIT
Metal or Ionto Metal rollers, the shape Allows for product penetration
Rollers of tiny rolling pins over the entire face
Galvanic or Ionto Mask A soft, sponge type mask Promotes even product
that covers the entire penetration over the entire face
face, except the eyes,
nose and mouth
Mushroom Glass electrode with Completes the flow of

a long stem and electrons
mushroom-like shape at Creates a germicidal effect on
the opposite end the skin
Metal Ball Small metal ball that Increases product penetration

easily fits into smaller into small, delicate areas of the
facial areas face
Single or Double-Prong Approximately 4” (10 cm) Promotes product penetration

Metal metal prongs the width of in delicate lines and crevices of
a pinky finger the face
Indirect or Spiral Glass electrode with Enhances product penetration

spiral metal filament and relaxation during massage
visible in the center
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Chapter 6 Electricity and Electrical Equipment Electrical Equipment in Esthetics Pages 202-203
M
n
7
List and explain the functions of the various types of electrical equipment
that may be used to enhance the results of related skin care treatments
Skin Analysis Used to help determine best possible course of treatment

Equipment
Magnifying Lamp Loupe; provides light and magnification for skin analysis after cleansing of skin;
helpful when performing extractions
3 diopter = 30 X magnification
Diopter = degree of magnification 5 diopter = 50 x magnification
Wood’s Lamp Uses light and magnification to analyze skin conditions

Utilizes violet rays or black light – must be used in totally dark room
Black light colorizes skin conditions to indicate:

Blue-white Normal, healthy skin
Bright fluorescent Hydrated skin
Light violet Dehydrated skin
Purple fluorescent Thin, dehydrated skin
White spots Horny layer of skin and dead cells
White fluorescent Thick corneum layer
Yellow, pink, orange Oily areas of the face and clogged pores
Brown Pigmentation, dark spots, sun damage
When using light and magnification:

n Avoid direct contact with bulb and skin
CAUTION
!!! n Do not allow bulb to overheat
n Ensure you and your client look away from light source
Skin Scope Skin scanner; more expensive and elaborate magnifying mirror/light
(Dermascope) Incorporates a black light
Allows esthetician to see the client’s skin and the client to see
his/her own reflection
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n Cleansing and Essential components of any skin care treatment service

Toning Equipment
Facial Steamer Facial vaporizer; often considered most important piece of equipment in facial
treatment; sprays lukewarm, diffused vapor mist onto surface of facial skin
Used during or following the cleansing process Check water level several
times a day
Benefits Benefits of a Facial Steamer:
Softens dead surface skin cells, sebum, makeup and dirt
Some machines
Expands pores and increases product penetration produce 0zone
Helps more thoroughly cleanse skin
Believed to help eliminate toxins, increase blood circulation and improve
cell metabolism
Precautions Facial Steamer should be used sparingly if client is experiencing:
n Sensitive skin; position further from the face
n Couperose skin (dilated capillaries); position further from the face
n Acne or rosacea
n Sunburn When steam flows, place 16”
(40 cm) from client’s face;
n Skin irritation position for 3 to 5 minutes
n Open cuts, abrasions or sores
Suction Machine Miniature vacuum cleaner that serves as a deep pore cleanser, draws out dirt,
impurities and sebum; provides very light suction on surface of skin
Features variety of sizes of glass suction cups for different areas of face
Light suction on thin, dry aging skin; strong suction on oily skin
Contraindications Contraindications include:
n Sensitive skin
Massage can be
n Rosacea eliminated when
suction is used
n Thin skin
n Infected acne condition
n Couperose skin (dilated capillaries)
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Spray Machine Atomizer; automated spraying device

Helps achieve a more thorough cleansing or toning after extraction or suction
Sprays surface of skin with water-based solution for oily or dry skin
Provides stimulation to nerve endings, cellular metabolism and a light massage
Typically, the spray machine is used:
n After the second cleansing Face cuvette = face bowl
n After suction or extraction
n To assist in clay or mud mask removal
n After a mask is removed
Electric Pulverizer Unique atomizer that allows for application of herbs, extracts or astringents
Spray (Lucas Spray) to be carried to skin in a very fine mist
Can be used any time to refresh the skin; suitable for all skin types
Consists of large metal container or boiler with two removable glass beakers
attached to side; makes a hissing noise when spray is ready
Plastic tube draws solution Invented by
Dr. Lucas Championniere
Spray is applied 14” to 16”

(35 to 40 cm) from face Spray no longer than
1 minute
n DO NOT TOUCH metal container when operating machine

n Check water level periodically
n Remove plastic tube from large beaker every few minutes
CAUTION
!!! Beaker 1
holds
ingredients to be
pulverized Beaker 2
catches
dripping
liquid
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n Exfoliation Enhances level and degree of exfoliation delivered to skin

Equipment Allows mechanical exfoliation to be delivered at different depths
Rotating Brush Features handheld attachment (brushes of various sizes and textures)
Machine for use on face and body
Circular motion allows for superficial exfoliation and deep, thorough cleansing
Machine features different speed settings; soft brush, slow speed for dry
sensitive skin; coarse brush, faster speed for thick, oily skin
Contraindications n Acne n Sunburn
n Rosacea n Skin irritation
n Extremely sensitive skin n Open cuts, abrasions or sores
n Any type of chemical exfoliation
Microdermabrasion n Used to achieve a light resurfacing of the epidermis; consists of generator with
Machine
two glass containers on either the front or side
n Degree of exfoliation depends on level of crystal spray, degree of suction and
number and speed of passes over skin
n Recommended for fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and scarring
CAUTION
!!! Container 2
Container 1 holds the used aluminum oxide crystals
filled with clean aluminum oxide crystals
Microdermabrasion is a very aggressive exfoliating procedure

n Additional
Treatment Equipment
Electric Mask Produces warm, moist heat at comfortable temperature

Used to help soften skin and aid in deeper penetration of products
Generally left on for 5 to 7 minutes; disinfected after use
Contraindications Contraindications include:
n Sensitive skin
n Acne
n Rosacea
n Couperose skin (dilated capillaries)
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Treatment Mittens n Electrically heated & slipped onto hands and feet to help product penetrate deeper
and Booties
n Use disposable plastic liner for infection control purposes
n Outer cover is waterproof and easily cleaned with spray disinfectant
Paraffin Heating Unit n Electric container that melts blocks of paraffin wax for use in face, hand,
foot and body treatments
n Both moisturizing and relaxing, can be an effective treatment for dry skin
n Increases rate of penetration of products and warms the skin
Wax Heating Unit n Specially designed heating containers that melt wax for hair removal
n Temperature is controlled by the esthetician; available in a variety of sizes
Hot Towel Cabinet n Allows for warm, moist towels to be available throughout the day
n Holds towels used for removing products from skin during face and
body treatments
n Disinfected each day
Multifunction n Designed to feature a combination of different electrical units including

Machine
magnifying lamp, steamer, rotating brush, suction and spray machine
n Most commonly used machine because it saves space
n Infection Control Essential while performing electrotherapy services to protect health & well
and Safety being of esthetician & client
Electrode Guidelines for Infection Control & Safety

Safety
n Electrodes coming in contact with skin need to be covered in
damp gauze or cotton, which is discarded after each use
n Glass electrodes need to be cleaned with disinfectant solution;

never use alcohol because it is an electrical conductor
n Always read manufacturer’s directions and follow them carefully
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Chapter 6 Electricity and Electrical Equipment Electrical Equipment in Esthetics Page 213
Guidelines used for maintaining safe use of electrical equipment:

n Use UV sanitizer, sterilizer or autoclave to ensure cleanliness
n Maintain clean, sanitary, dust-free surfaces
Safety n Wipe down arms of steamers after each use; use only distilled or filtered
water to clean out container each day
n Clean all brush attachments in hot, antibacterial soap; rinse well and
soak in approved disinfectant
n Wash and soak all suction attachments in approved disinfectant between
each use; store in UV sanitizer or covered container overnight
n Wipe down facial bed with approved disinfectant between clients
n Turn off all electrical equipment at the end of the workday
Which piece of electrical equipment described in this chapter requires the highest caution level?
The microdermabrasion machine
L E A R NI NG C ONNE CTION Electrical Fill-Ins

Fill in the correct answers in the blank spaces to complete the sentences.
1. The piece of skin analysis equipment that allows things to be seen on the surface of the skin that would otherwise
be invisible to the naked eye is the magnifying lamp .
2. A measurement of the degree of magnification is known as a(n) diopter .
3. A type of skin analysis equipment that utilizes violet rays or black light is referred to as the Wood’s Lamp .
4. The elaborate magnifying mirror/light that incorporates a black light and allows the client to see his or her
reflec tion is called a(n) skinscope .
5. The piece of equipment used to soften dead surface skin cells, expand pores and increase product penetration by
spraying a vapor mist onto the surface of the skin is called a(n) facial steamer .
6. The handheld appliance that performs superficial exfoliation is called the rotating brush machine .
7. The apparatus that acts like a miniature vacuum cleaner to help in deep pore cleansing is called
the suction machine .
8. The automated spraying device that is also called an atomizer is referred to as the spray machine .
9. Facial equipment designed to feature a combination of different electrical units is referred to as

a(n) multifunction machine .
10. The unique atomizer that allows for the application of various herbs, extracts or astringents in a fine mist is called
a(n) Electric Pulverizer .
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corresponding description in column B
MATCHING
by placing the letter of the term in the
box provided in front of the description.
Column A Column B
A. Amp A A unit of electrical strength
B. Circuit breaker Q A unit of electrical pressure
C. Conductor I Material that prevents electrical flow
D. Desincrustation C Material that allows electricity to flow through it
E. Electrotherapy Equipment used to change alternating current to direct

N
current
F. Galvanic Current The use of special currents to create certain effects on

E
the skin
G. General shock L A unit of electric resistance
H. Incandescent light R A measure of electrical energy
A constant, direct current (DC) of low voltage and high

I. Insulator F amperage
A reusable safety device that breaks the flow of current in

J. Iontophoresis B the event of an overload
K. Local shock H Light produced by an ordinary light bulb
L. Ohm K A shock that passes through a small part of the body
The process of breaking down blockages in the skin with

M. Phoresis D an alkaline solution
N. Rectifier O A High Frequency Current
The process of forcing beneficial nutrients into the skin

O. Tesla Current J
with an acidic solution
The portion of the electromagnetic spectrum that we see

P. Visible light P
with the naked eye
Q. Volt G A shock that passes through the nervous system
R. Watt M The process of forcing a water-based solution into the skin
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Wherever a purple square appears,
It’s Up to YOU TO KNOW it’s up to you to fill in the missing information.
Modality or Method Function Benefits
Galvanic Forces water-soluble skin care products into n Deeper penetration of product
the skin; provides a relaxation effect to nerve n Relaxation
endings
Desincrustation Uses an alkaline (negative) solution and a n Softens tissue

negative electrode to break down oil and n Expands walls of pores
blockages in the skin n Increases blood flow and sensitivity
Iontophoresis Uses an acidic (positive) solution and a n Tightens and firms tissue
positive electrode to nourish deep layers of n Contracts walls of pores
the epidermis n Constricts blood vessels
n Decreases blood flow
n Soothes sensory nerve endings
n Creates an anti-bacterial effect on skin
n Aids in calming post-extraction irritation
High Frequency Creates heat to stimulate surface tissue and n Improves blood circulation
increase circulation; generates ozone gas n Increases rate of metabolism and
close to the surface to create germicidal, sebaceous glandular activity
healing and drying effect n Generates heat inside tissues
n Aids in deeper penetration of product
n Aids in elimination and absorption
Direct High Utilizes the formation of ozone to produce a n Stimulates surface tissue
Frequency germicidal effect on the skin; treats oily skin n Creates heat on surface of skin
with overall congestion; spot treats blemishes n Increases circulation and blood flow
n Dries surface of skin and excess sebum
n Heals existing papules and pustules
n Delivers a germicidal effect and kills
bacteria on the skin
Indirect High Utilizes electrical current to relax and sedate n Stimulates oil production for oil-dry skin
Frequency client; aids in penetration of product; assists n Stimulates heat in tissues
in massage for mature skin n Stimulates sebaceous secretion
n Induces relaxation and sedation
Faradic Produces a mechanical, non-chemical n Improves blood circulation

reaction; stimulates nerve and muscle tissue n Improves muscle tone
n Increases glandular activity
Indirect Faradic Esthetician wears wristband with moistened n Preserves muscle tone
electrode and client holds electrode
Direct Faradic Muscle stimulation caused by current n Stimulates muscles

traveling through motor nerves between two
positioned electrodes
Sinusoidal Alternating current with a mechanical effect n Deeper penetration to treated area
n Greater stimulation to treated area
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1. Color Psychology
As you have learned in this chapter,

color in the skin care treatment room
can have a psychological effect. In the
LOVE COOL FRESH box to the left, there are blocks of color.
Below each of the colors, write the first
word that comes to your mind when you
see that color.
ROYAL FRIENDLY CHEERFUL
2. Electrical Equipment Opinions
1. See pages 202-212.

Consider the electrical equipment that
you reviewed in this chapter and, with a
partner, discuss the following questions:
1. Which skin care electrical appliance

2. would you consider the most
difficult to operate?
2. Which skin care electrical appliance

do you feel you will use most often?
3. 3. About which skin care electrical

appliance do you feel clients will ask
the most questions?
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THE CHALLENGE
1. TRUE FALSE Electricity is a form of energy that produces only light
Now it’s time to see how Electricity is a form of energy that produces light, heat,
magnetic and chemical changes.
2. TRUE FALSE An insulator is material that does not allow the flow of
the Memory Box that electric current.
3. A watt is a measure of how much electrical energy is being used.
the Salon Fundamentals™
Esthetics textbook. Check 4. What are the two conditions that must exist for electrical current to be produced?
“got it” for all correct a. an open and closed path must be present
b. a source and an open path must be present
c. a source and a closed path must be present
all incorrect responses. d. a closed circuit and an open path must be present
record all of your correct 5. Human contact with an electric current causes a(n):
a. shock
responses in the “I b. short circuit
Know” column. After c. use overload
d. overloaded circuit
answers, record all of your 6. Galvanic, High Frequency, Faradic and Sinusoidal are four types of:
corrected responses in the a. electrodes
b. currents
“I Need to Study” column.
c. applications
That way you know exactly d. electrical lights
7. Which of the following is the only constant direct current of low voltage and
continuing in this Guide.
high amperage?
a. Faradic
Directions: Identify b. Galvanic
whether questions 1 and c. Sinusoidal
d. High Frequency
circling TRUE or FALSE. 8. Which treatment uses an acidic solution and a positive electrode to nourish
You can earn an extra deep layers of the epidermis?
a. phoresis
point for each false b. anaphoresis
statement you c. desincrustation
appropriately correct. d. iontophoresis
Question 3 requires you 9. What term is used when electric current has opposite poles?
to write in an answer a. anode
in the blank provided. b. polarity
c. cathode
Answers to the questions d. electrode
10. What piece of equipment is used in a dark room to provide light and
may be selected by
magnification to determine skin type and condition?
circling a, b, c or d below a. facial steamer
each statement to indicate b. Wood’s Lamp
your choice. c. suction machine
d. microdermabrasion machine
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I know...
o not yet I need to study...

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
Interview a skin care specialist in your area either by phone or in person. Your goal is to determine which skin
care electrical appliance is the most valuable to him or her in the practice of his or her profession.
Compare your finding with others in your class.
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knowledge grid
Chapter 6, Electricity and Electrical Equipment. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build
KNOW State how electrical current is produced and define the 4 major measurements of electricity.
Having a source, such as a battery or generator and a closed path called a circuit, produces
electric current. The electrons leave the source and travel on the closed path to operate an
appliance. The four measurements of electricity include: 1) amps which measure strength,
2) volts which measure pressure, 3) ohms which measure resistance and 4) watts which
measure the amount of electricity used.
COMPREHEND In your own words, describe the effects of thermal, mechanical and electrochemical currents
upon the human skin.
Thermal currents transfer heat to the body. Mechanical currents have the ability to
provide relaxing or stimulating effects to the body, based on the type of equipment
the motor is operating. Electrochemical currents produce relaxing or stimulating
effects based on the type of polarity and solution used.
APPLY Make a ‘First Aid for Local Shock’ poster that could be displayed in the break area of
your skin care center.
Local Shock
1. Break the circuit carrying the power 5. Keep immersed and packed on ice
2. Unplug the source and all electrical force 6. When cold and not swelling, blot
3. Immerse the burn in cold water and apply antiseptic
4. If severe, take to the doctor...or
ANALYZE Specify the benefits of using Galvanic, High Frequency, Faradic and/or Sinusoidal electrical
currents to perform skin care treatments.
The advantage of using Galvanic Current is that it allows deeper penetration of products
into the layers of the epidermis in order to achieve optimum results. High Frequency
Current is able to create heat to stimulate surface tissue and increase circulation and it
is able to create a germicidal, healing and drying effect through the use of ozone gas.
Faradic Current is able to stimulate nerve and muscle tissue and causes involuntary muscle
contractions. Sinusoidal Current is able to penetrate deeper, therefore causing greater
stimulation to the treated area.
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knowledge grid
continued
SYNTHESIZE Design an advertisement describing the benefits of an electrically induced skin care treatment.
Are your hands and feet dry from the harsh winter air?
If your answer is yes, then come see us for some tender loving care…
Call today for an appointment for a soothing, hot paraffin treatment
Designed to leave your hands and feet feeling brand new...
You’ll be glad you took the time, just for you!
Valley Regional Skin Care Center Call Today...
555 4th Avenue 555-555-2323
EVALUATE Rate the electrical equipment listed below that is used in skin care centers as
(1) essential, (2) supplementary or (3) special-use. Justify your rating.
Equipment Rating Justification
Magnification lamp 1 This is necessary for the most basic to complex service
Wood’s Lamp 2 This would supplement the magnification lamp
Skin scope 2 Services could be given without this, making it a supplement
Facial steamer 1 This is an essential element for almost all services
Rotating brush attachment 2 This is a supplement to exfoliating products
Suction machine 1 This is an essential element for almost all services
Spray machine 1 This is an essential element for almost all services
Electric pulverizer spray 3 This is used for special services such as herbal mists
Carbonic gas spray 3 This is used for special services with oily and acne skin
Microdermabrasion 3 This is used for special services of exfoliation
Electric mask 2 This supplements product penetration
Treatment mittens & booties 3 These help products penetrate deeper
Paraffin heating unit 2 This helps accelerate product penetration
Wax heating unit 1 This is an essential element for all waxing services
Hot towel cabinet 1 This is an essential element for all services
Facial bed 1 This is an essential element for all services
Facial stool 1 This is an essential element for all services
Utility table 1 This is an essential element for all services
Face cuvette 1 This is an essential element for all services
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. Which of the following is the movement of electricity along a path called a conductor?
a. watt
b. load
c. ohm
d. electric current
2. Which of the following is the technical term for any appliance that requires electricity
in order to work?
a. load
b. insulator
c. electrotherapy
d. electric current
3. Which of the following is a material that allows electricity to flow through it easily?
a. insulator
b. generator
c. conductor
d. open circuit
4. Material around a conductor that does not allow current to pass through it is called a(n):
a. insulator
b. generator
c. conductor
d. closed circuit
5. Which of the following indicates the number of electrons flowing through a particular line?
a. voltage
b. amp rating
c. hertz rating
d. ohm’s rating
6. What is referred to as a unit of electric pressure?

a. volt
b. amp
c. ohm
d. watt
7. Which of the following is the resistance to the motion of the electrons through a conductor?
a. voltage
b. amp rating
c. hertz rating
d. ohm’s rating
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Brain Conditioners
8. Since a watt is a small unit of energy, power companies describe watt usage in:
a. milliamp
b. kilowatts
c. milliampere
d. kilowatt hours
9. Which of the following indicates that the appliance has been certified to operate safely
under the conditions specified in the instructions?
a. volts needed
b. frequency-hertz
c. Underwriter’s Laboratory
d. watts consumed per second
10. Which of the following is a rapid oscillating current that alternates back and forth, allowing
electrons to flow first in one direction and then in the other?
a. rectifier
b. converter
c. direct current
d. alternating current
11. Which of the following items is able to change alternating current to direct current?
a. battery
b. rectifier
c. converter
d. generator
12. Which of the following changes direct current to alternating current?

a. battery
b. rectifier
c. converter
d. generator
13. An electrical path that is broken is called a(n):

a. circuit
b. rectifier
c. open circuit
d. closed circuit
14. A path on which the electricity leaves the source and operates an appliance is called a(n):
a. open path
b. closed path
c. series wiring
d. parallel wiring
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Brain Conditioners
15. What can occur any time a foreign conductor comes in contact with a wire carrying current to a load?
a. volt
b. open path
c. closed path
d. short circuit
16. What is the technical term for any appliance that requires electricity in order to work?
a. load
b. open path
c. closed path
d. parallel wiring
17. All of the following are true EXCEPT:

a. a load is the technical term for any appliance
b. too many appliances on one circuit could cause an overload
c. a short circuit occurs when an appliance is dropped in water
d. use water to extinguish a fire caused by an overload
18. Which type of shock passes through the nervous system?

a. total shock
b. local shock
c. muscle shock
d. general shock
19. The application of special currents that have certain effects on the skin is called:
a. ray therapy
b. electrotherapy
c. light therapy
d. electromagnetic radiation
20. Which of the following is a constant direct current of low voltage and high amperage that
produces an electrochemical effect?
a. Tesla Current
b. Faradic Current
c. Galvanic Current
d. Sinusoidal Current
21. The process of forcing a water-based solution into the skin by applying current to the chemical
solution is:
a. phoresis
b. ionization
c. anaphoresis
d. cataphoresis
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Brain Conditioners
22. Which of the following is true about cataphoresis?

a. increases sensitivity
b. increases blood flow
c. tightens and firms the tissue
d. expands follicle walls
23. The process of breaking down blockages in the skin with an alkaline solution to open the pores
and soften blockages is referred to as:
a. polarity
b. cataphoresis
c. iontophoresis
d. desincrustation
24. The process of forcing a water-soluble acidic product into the skin to nourish deep layers of
the epidermis is called:
a. phoresis
b. iontophoresis
c. anaphoresis
d. cataphoresis
25. A negatively charged ion is referred to as:

a. anion
b. anode
c. cation
d. cathode
26. A positive electrode is called:

a. anion
b. anode
c. cation
d. cathode
27. High Frequency Current is also referred to as:

a. Tesla Current
b. Faradic Current
c. Galvanic Current
28. A gas generated close to the skin’s surface that has a germicidal, healing and drying effect is:
a. oxygen
b. ozone gas
c. electric gas
d. hydrogen gas
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Brain Conditioners
29. High Frequency treatment should not be performed more than once every:
a. week
b. two months
c. six months
d. year
30. Which of the following are benefits of Direct High Frequency current?
a. reduces rate of metabolism
b. improves blood circulation
c. increases sebaceous glandular activity
d. blocks penetration of product into skin
31. Which High Frequency method creates an even more powerful ozone effect by slowly lifting
the electrode away from the skin?
a. sparking
b. sebum gap
c. argon effect
d. quartz treatment
32. Which of the following is an alternating current interrupted to produce a mechanical,

non-chemical reaction?
a. Tesla Current
b. Faradic Current
c. Galvanic Current
33. During which type of treatment does the esthetician place both electrodes on the client’s skin
making certain they never touch?
a. Sinusoidal method
b. Viennese massage
c. Indirect Faradic method
d. Direct Faradic method
34. Which of the following treatments produce beneficial effects on the body through treatments
using light rays or waves?
a. light therapy
b. Faradic Current
c. short-wave treatment
d. fluorescent light therapy
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Brain Conditioners
35. The transfer of heat energy through an empty air space is called:
a. radiation
b. wavelength
c. heat energy
d. electromagnetic spectrum
36. Which two kinds of light in the skin care center produce a balance of light when used together?
a. visible and infrared light
b. invisible and fluorescent light
c. ultraviolet and incandescent light
d. fluorescent and incandescent light
37. Any infrared light produces:

a. heat
b. black light
c. discoloration
d. harmful chemical effects
38. If an individual feels depressed when there are fewer hours of daylight he or she may
be experiencing:
a. Spring fever
b. Northwest Winter Depression
c. Southeast Winter Depression
d. Seasonal Affective Disorder
39. During UV light therapy treatments:

a. client should wear sunglasses
b. esthetician should wear sunglasses
c. client’s eyes must be covered with cotton eye pads
d. both client and esthetician need to wear protective eyewear
40. The transfer of heat via direct contact is:

a. radiation
b. conduction
c. friction heat
d. thermal heat
41. Which type of equipment utilizes rotating brushes and massagers?

a. radiation equipment
b. thermal equipment
c. conduction equipment
d. mechanical equipment
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Brain Conditioners
42. During a High Frequency treatment, which machine would the esthetician use on a client’s neck?
a. roller electrode
b. indirect electrode
c. mushroom electrode
d. horseshoe electrode
43. What are created when electric current travels through a water-based solution
(a liquid conductor) and onto the body?
a. warm effects
b. thermal effects
c. mechanical effects
d. electrochemical effects
44. When using a Wood’s Lamp, what type of skin condition exists when the skin is seen
as light violet in color?
a. hydrated skin
b. dehydrated skin
c. normal, healthy skin
d. oily, sun-damaged skin
45. What type of skin cells are sloughed off during superficial exfoliation?
a. oily skin cells
b. thick skin cells
c. dead skin cells
d. healthy skin cells
46. Which machine acts like a miniature vacuum cleaner and helps in deep pore cleansing, drawing
out dirt, impurities and sebum?
a. spray machine
b. suction machine
c. multifunction machine
d. rotating brush machine
47. When using light and magnification you need to:

a. look directly at the bulb
b. ask your client to look directly at the bulb
c. allow the bulb to come in contact with the skin
d. ensure you and your client look away from the light source
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Brain Conditioners
48. Which machine serves as an atomizer to refresh the skin?

a. Wood’s Lamp
b. suction machine
c. electric pulverizer
d. microdermabrasion spray
49. Which type of skin is effectively treated by using heated paraffin?

a. dry skin
b. oily skin
c. acne skin
d. sensitive skin
50. What plays a key role in the successful operation of every skin care center?
a. the number of facial beds
b. safe and effective use of electricity
c. landscaping surrounding the center
d. the number of paraffin heating units
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1. page 175
2. page 175
3. page 175
4. page 175 26. page 187
5. page 177 27. page 188
6. page 178 28. page 189
7. page 178 29. page 189
8. page 178 30. page 190
9. page 178 31. page 189
10. page 176 32. page 191
11. page 176 33. page 191
12. page 176 34. page 194
13 page 179 35. page 194
14. page 179 36. page 195
15. page 180 37. page 196
16. page 180 38. page 198
17. page 180 39. page 197
18. page 182 40. page 198
19. page 185 41. page 199
20. page 185 42. page 201
21. page 185 43. page 199
22. page 186 44. page 203
23. page 186 45. page 204
24. page 186 46. page 205
25. page 187 47. page 203
48. page 207
49. page 210
50. page 213
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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NOTES TO MYSELF
My Reflections About Electricity and Electrical Equipment

more enjoyable.
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7
CHEMISTRY
VALUE MAIN IDEA
Chemistry explains how and why products Chemistry is responsible for a wide variety
influence the skin. It also helps you choose of skin and product interactions. In this
appropriate client treatment plans and chapter, you will learn about basic and
recommend safe and effective skin care cosmetic chemistry so you can understand
the skin’s properties, how it functions,
products. and how skin care and makeup products
are formulated to deliver specific results.
Knowledge of different ingredient types will
help you understand skin care products and
their purposes.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
The Chemistry n Classifications of Matter n Describe the three basic forms of matter
of Matter n Biochemical Components and the key differences between elements,
of the Body and Skin atoms, molecules and compounds.
n Identify and describe the three major bio-
chemical components of the body and skin.
Cosmetic n Understanding pH n Compare and contrast the acid and

Products and n Cosmetic Products alkaline segments of the pH scale.
n Cosmetic Ingredients n Specify the defining properties of cosmetic
Ingredients
product categories including:
n Cosmetic Regulations
- Mixture
- Solution
- Suspension
- Gel
- Powder
- Ointment
- Stick
- Aerosol
- Emulsion
n List agencies and federal guidelines that
regulate cosmetic formulations and claims.
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smartNOTES
Chapter 7 Chemistry The Chemistry of Matter Pages 217-218
M 1 Describe the three basic forms of matter and the key differences
between elements, atoms, molecules and compounds
Chemistry Scientific study of matter, the physical and chemical changes

affecting matter and the energy changes that accompany these processes
Chemists Scientists who study matter, its properties and changes
Biochemistry The study of chemical reactions, such as growth, reproduction

and respiration, that occur within a living organism
Deals with all matter that is now living or was alive at one time
Organic Chemistry
Study of matter containing carbon, which is present in all plants and animals
Deals with matter that was never living and does not contain carbon
Inorganic Chemistry
Examples: rocks and minerals
n Classification
of Matter
Matter Anything that occupies space
3 Distinct Forms of Matter Solids

Liquids
n Matter with
definite weight, Gases
n Matter with
volume, and
definite weight n Matter with
shape
and volume, but definite weight,
no shape but indefinite
n Example -
human skin volume and
n Example - skin shape
care lotions
n Example - air
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smartNOTES
Changing Matter Matter can be changed from one form to another in two ways:
Physical Change Chemical Change
Change in the physical Change in a substance

form of a substance that creates a new
without creating a new substance with different
substance possessing material characteristics
a distinct material from those of the
composition original substance
Example: transformation
Example: freezing water of hydrogen and oxygen
to form ice cubes to form water
Sublimination Solid passing into gaseous state without melting
Energy The ability to do work to accomplish some change

At the core of chemistry (along with matter)
Elements Basic units of matter that cannot be broken down into simpler substances by any
chemical reaction; pure substances; 92 naturally occurring elements in nature;
hydrogen and oxygen are examples
Periodic Table Dmitri Mendeleev & Lothar Meyer identified ways to arrange elements
with similar properties in groups in a table of elements
Periodic Law Unifying concept used to organize elements and their similarities
Letters (chemical symbols) serve as scientific shorthand for each element
Number shown with each element is known as atomic number and indicates
number of protons in a single particular element, basis for organization
Elements of Interest for Carbon (C), oxygen (O), hydrogen (H), nitrogen (N) and sulfur (S)
Estheticians
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smartNOTES
Atoms Smallest complete unit of an element; each element consists of identical atoms
Three Particles
Neutrons
That Make Up Atoms
n No electrical charge
n Neutrally charged
Electrons
n Negative electrical charge Protons
n Enable atoms to unite with n Positive electrical charge
other atoms to form bonds
n Number of protons differentiates
one element from another
Neutron + Proton = Molecular Weight
Nucleus Protons and neutrons packed tightly to form dense core at the center of the atom
Electrons move around nucleus at the speed of light on orbiting paths called
energy levels
Free Electron The chemical behavior (reactivity) of an atom depends mostly on number of
electrons present in the outermost orbiting path or shell; name given to an
electron in the outermost orbit that is easily moved from its orbit; if another atom
has a shortage of electrons the free electron will try to move to that atom
Atoms not missing any electrons in outer shell are considered stable and
electrically neutral; unstable atoms are reactive; unstable atoms seek other atoms
with which they can share electrons to complete their outer shell - when they
combine they make molecules
Molecules When unstable atoms combine chemically, a molecule is formed

Smallest particle of a compound that has all the chemical properties of that
compound; two or more atoms joined together by one or more chemical bonds
Atoms in a molecule are described using the chemical symbols of each element
e.g., Oxygen is O2 which means the molecule has two oxygen atoms
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smartNOTES
Compounds Created by chemically uniting two different elements; more than 4,000,000
chemical compounds exist; compounds formed by the union of individual
elements have their own unique chemical and physical characteristics
Chemical Reaction Reactions that occur in the outer shell of atoms; leads to composition of a client’s
specific needs; occurs when two or more chemicals are mixed together
Oxidation Loss of an electron; Reduction Gain of an electron;

oxygen is acquired oxygen is released
Ions Charged atoms; ions attract or repel each other based on their positive or
negative charge
Ionic Bond When positive and negative ions join, they are held together by an ionic bond.
Covalent Bond If no trading is taking place and the atoms are sharing the electrons, they are held
together by a covalent bond
Chemical Bonds Forces that hold atoms together in compounds
L E A RNI NG C ONNECTION Mapping

Map the various forms of matter using the Jump Start Box. Begin with the form
of matter, define the form and finally give an example of each form of matter.
Forms of Matter Definition Example
Solids Matter with definite weight, volume and shape Human Skin
Liquids Matter with definite weight and volume but no shape Skin Care Lotions
Gases Matter with definite weight, but indefinite volume and shape Air
Gases Matter with definite weight, volume and shape Air

Jump Start Box Liquids Matter with definite weight and volume but no shape Human Skin
Solids Matter with definite weight, but indefinite volume and shape Skin Care Lotions
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smartNOTES
M 2
n Biochemical
Identify and describe the three major biochemical components of the body and skin
Components of the
Body and Skin
Biochemistry The branch of science that deals with the chemicals related to life processes
and their reactions within the body
3 Major Biochemical Three major bio-chemical compound groups in the body:
Compound Groups 1. Proteins - help the body construct and renew itself
2. Carbohydrates - used by the body to store energy; play a key role in metabolism
3. Lipids - form components that fill the intercellular spaces in the skin
Proteins Basic materials the body uses to construct and renew itself
Skin, hair, muscles, nerves and blood are all made of proteins
Many hormones and enzymes are made of proteins
Enzymes Enzymes dissolve and break down large molecules into smaller ones
Amino Acids Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen
Bond together to form protein chains in two ways
n Peptide bond: a bond uniting two amino acid groups
n Polypeptide chain: a chain of amino acids
Monomers Basic building-block molecules
Polymers Polymers = groups of monomers that bond together
Carbohydrates Used by the body to store energy and play a key role in metabolism
Molecules containing a combination of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen
n Saccharide = simple unit of a carbohydrate
n Monosaccharide = a single saccharide; e.g., sugar such as glucose
n Disaccharides = two saccharides linked together; e.g., table sugar
n Polysaccharides = many saccharides linked together; e.g., starch
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smartNOTES
Chapter 7 Chemistry The Chemistry of Matter Page 226
Lipids Made up of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen – C, H, O

Synthesized by the body and used in many important biological functions
Fill in the intercellular spaces in the skin
Examples - triglycerides, fats and steroids
If you were asked to write a 500-word essay on the topic you found most interesting so far
in this chapter, what would that topic be?
LEARNING
Word cbelrsam Scramble
Listed below you will find scrambled letters that, when unscrambled, will identify some of the key terms
found within this portion of the chapter. Challenge yourself to unscramble all 10 words.
a. caiedcasdihr disaccharide
b. adcsceriha saccharide
c. seylmorp polymers
d. dipsli lipids
e. rnoomesm monomers
f. yacspocershaid polysaccharides
g. ntorpies proteins
h. cityembohsir biochemistry
i. aorsonmaicechd monosaccharide
j. rbarcesyodhta carbohydrates
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Chapter 7 Chemistry Cosmetic Products and Ingredients Pages 228-231
n
M 3 Compare and contrast the difference between acid and alkaline segments
of the pH scale
Understanding pH pH or potential hydrogen is the unit of measurement that indicates whether a

substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline
pH numbers measure the amount of acid or alkali in a water-based solution
Acid More positive hydrogen ions than negative ions
Alkaline More negative hydroxide ions; term used to describe a base
The pH Scale Ranges between 0 to 14; describes the degree of acidity or alkalinity
7 is the mid-point or the point of neutrality
The pH scale is logarithmic, each step or number increases by multiples of 10.

10x 100x 1000x 10,000x 100,000x 1,000,000x 10,000,000x
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
A pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than 7
pH Balanced or pH balanced means pH is balanced at a certain number but may not be 4.5 to 5.5
Acid Balanced Acid balanced means balanced within the acid range of 4.5 to 5.5
pH of the personal care products the esthetician works with will have an effect
on how formulations interact with the skin as well as with other products used
by the client
Acid Mantle Mixture of sebum and sweat combines with lipids, minerals and moisture to
form a protective barrier for the skin
Aids in protecting the skin from extraneous substances
Water and the pH Scale Pure distilled water has a pH of 7 Water sent
through a
Water can be either hard or soft
water softener
n Hard water may contain salts such as magnesium has minerals
n Soft water contains very few minerals remaining but
they are not
active!
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smartNOTES
n
M 4
Cosmetic Products
Specify the defining properties of cosmetic product categories
1. Mixture 4. Gel 7. Stick

Categories 2. Solution 5. Powder 8. Aerosol
3. Suspension 6. Ointment 9. Emulsion
Mixture Formed when two or more compounds are blended together physically vs.
chemically; creates a new overall product but still retains the separate chemical
characteristics of the components blended; most skin care products are mixtures
Solution A mixture of two or more chemicals (compounds) in which each component is

evenly dispersed or distributed in the mixture to form a complete and
homogeneous dispersion (even blending and distribution)
n Solvent is the liquid part of a solution
n Solute is the solid or dissolved part of a solution
An example is a glass of Kool-Aid®
Solute = powder; Solvent = water; Solution = Kool-Aid®
Saturation point = the point at which a solute will no longer dissolve evenly in the
solvent; water is known as the universal solvent, since it is capable of dissolving
more substances than any other solvent; (organic substances are not soluble)
Miscible
Miscible solvents Immiscible solvents
and Immiscible Solvents
n Solvents that easily mix together n Solvents that don’t mix together
Suspension Even dispersion of a solid substance in a liquid base; e.g., liquid foundation
Gel A product that has been formulated with a thickening agent to increase the
viscosity of the product; eg. transparent cleanser
Powders Finely ground solids evenly mixed with additional ingredients; e.g., talcum powder
Ointment Anhydrous (without water) substances based on a mixture of oils and waxes,
normally having the texture of a paste (thick and heavy); ideal product form to
deliver oil-soluble ingredients to localized areas on the skin; e.g.,
pharmaceutical products
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Stick Hard, low-level water or anhydrous product applied to the skin by rubbing the
product directly on the desired area; e.g., deodorants and lip balms
Aerosols Product packaged under pressure and blended with a propellant (gas) inside a
container; e.g., deodorants, shaving gels and hairsprays
Emulsion Formed when two or more nonmixable (immiscible) substances like oil and water,
are united with the help of small droplets of a binder (emulsifier) or gum-like
substance
Categorized as oil-in-water or water-in-oil
Emulsifiers Binding substances that make up emulsions; long molecules with a polar
(positively or negatively charged) end and a non-polar (neutrally charged)
end used in the manufacturing of emulsions
Viscosity Thickness of a product
Crème and Lotion Most common product types on the market, are emulsions used to impart
emolliency and moisturization on the skin; e.g., sunscreen, crèmes and
moisturizing lotions; main difference between crèmes and lotions are the
thickness and degree of emolliency and moisturization imparted
upon application
Product Profile Product determinations are made based on the profile characteristics listed below:
n crème n facial
n leave – on n all skin types
n rinse – off n dirty skin
n wipe – off n dry skin
Active Ingredients Ingredients responsible for producing desired effect
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smartNOTES
n Cosmetic
Ingredients
Labeling Ingredient labeling for commercially distributed cosmetic product is now
required by law in the United States, Europe and many other countries
n Each raw material has its own unique label name
n Assigned using the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI)
Ingredients are listed on the product label in descending order by weight
concentration as a percentage of the total formula
Water vs. Oil Weight concentration of water or oil causes one of these to be listed first on an
efficacy label; water is usually first and is the best solvent; most products are at
least half water
Humectants
Humectants Fatty Acids
n Organic ingredients that bind n Lubricants that come from
water and deposit it onto the either plant or animal sources
skin n Used in cosmetic products
Emollients n Normally found after water such as crèmes and lotions to
on the ingredient list keep them firm yet soft and
easy to apply
e.g., Sodium Lactate
e.g., Caprylic Acid
Fatty Acids Emollients Fatty Alcohols

n Oils and oil-soluble n Fatty acids that have been
substances used to condition exposed to hydrogen
and soften the skin by n Used to increase the
Fatty Alcohols providing a protective lipid thickness of cosmetic
coating products as well as provide
moisturizing properties
n Occlusive barrier = protective
lipid coating e.g., Cetyl Alcohol
Other Common e.g., Waxes
Ingredients
Surfactants A large category of ingredients with surface activity; can bind a wide range of
organic and inorganic matter to water
Surfactants in n Used at fairly high concentrations (found high on the label list)
Cleanser-Type Products
n Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate are most commonly used
n Body cleansing products have higher levels of surfactants than facial cleansers
Surfactants Used n Used at lower concentrations (found mid-point or below on label list)
to Create Emulsions
n Stearic Acid, Cetyl Phosphate and Beeswax are most commonly used
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Thickeners or Ingredients that help increase the density in emulsions and gel-type products
Viscosity Modifiers Allow for the suspension of small particle solids in the base by creating
a supporting structure to prevent the settling of the suspended solids
Botanicals n General classification for a wide variety of natural or naturally derived ingredients
n Benefits include anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-irritant and anti-oxidant
n Listed by their Latin names e.g., Sesame Oil
Preservatives Maintain the microbiological integrity or product quality during manufacturing,
storage and usage by the consumer; most products on the market will contain a
combination of two or more preservatives; products with less than 1% preservative
have very short shelf-life
Chelating Agents Ingredients added to a product to enhance the effectiveness of the preservative
Coloring Agents Added to products in order to enhance the appearance with color
Not often used in skin care products since they have a tendency to cause allergic reactions
Fragrance Oils Less expensive, but are artificial Essential Oils Natural and distilled from plant materials
Fragrance Usually not listed individually in the ingredient label: complex blends of many
essential oils and other compounds used to create unique scents
Fragrance-free = a product has less than 1% fragrance added or no added fragrance
Antibacterial Ingredients that possess the ability to destroy bacteria that can cause problems
such as acne or other infections; examples include Benzoyl Peroxide and Hydrogen
Peroxide; need to be used at certain percentages to support antibacterial claims
pH Adjustors Acids or bases used to adjust the product pH level to a desired level
An acid or base can also be used to neutralize the pH of the product
Active Ingredients Ingredients listed on labels to provide specific benefits and support efficacy claims
Comedogenic Non-comedogenic
Comedogenicity Ability to clog Ingredients likely to block Ingredients not likely to block
or clog the pores or clog the pores
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Sunscreen Active ingredients considered drug products by FDA guidelines

UV Absorbers or Blockers Block or absorb the ultraviolet radiation emitted by the sun
Antioxidants Ingredients used in certain types of treatment products to prevent skin

inflammation and damage due to free radicals; free radicals = chemically unstable
molecules, caused by environmental pollutants and UV exposure; most commonly
used antioxidants are derivatives of Vitamin C
Co-Enzyme Q-10 (Ubiquinone) Occurs naturally in human cells:
n Aids in production of cellular energy
n Aids in circulation
n Stimulates immune system
n Provides anti-aging effects
Silicones Free of contaminants; allow oxygen molecules to penetrate and keep water inside
Skin Renewal Agents Used by cosmetic formulators to provide specific benefits and support efficacy claims
Hydroxy Acids Organic acids extracted from a variety of natural sources including fruits, sugar
and milk; speed up the natural exfoliation process of the upper layers of the skin
(stratum corneum)
ALPHA BETA POLY

n Carboxyl group is located on n Carboxyl group is located on n Contain several carboxyl
the first carbon atom the second carbon atom groups in the same chain
e.g., Glycolic Acid e.g., Salicylic Acid e.g., Malic Acid
Enzymes Designed to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin; e.g., Papain
Kinetin Essential growth factor that prevents premature aging; is believed to partially
reverse clinical signs of photo-damaged facial skin
Vitamins Include the antioxidants Vitamin A, C and E; used to deliver a variety of benefits
Lighteners Used in skin treatment products in order to bleach or lighten areas of
hyperpigmentation; slowly block the production of melanin by the melanocytes
in the skin; e.g., Hydroquinone and Kojic Acid
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smartNOTES
M 5
n
List agencies and federal guidelines that regulate cosmetic formulations and claims
Cosmetic Different agencies, usually governmental, require cosmetic and skin care product
Regulations manufacturers to meet specific standards; regulations offer guidelines on
intended use to help estheticians recommend products to clients for home use
Regulation of cosmetic products is governed by the Federal Food, Drug and

Cosmetic Act (FFDCA) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA)
The FDA is the current government agency responsible for regulating cosmetics
Cosmetics Defined by the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FFDCA) as
“articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on or
introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or as part thereof for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance”
Drugs Products intended to treat symptoms or cure a medical condition; determined by

referring to the claims and representations made for the product on its label or
promotional materials
How does knowing about product types and ingredients help you when recommending proper
products for your clients to use?
L E A RNI NG C ONNECTION Create a Label
Create your own label for a product of your choice. List the
ingredients and identify the use for each.
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MATCHING
Column A Column B
A. Water B Categorized as oil-in-water or water-in-oil
B. Emulsion A Makes up the largest portion of most formulations
C. Emulsifiers D Organic ingredients that bind water and deposit it on

the skin
D. Humectants G Ingredients that help increase the density in emulsions

and gel-type products
E. Fatty Acids M Used to heal the skin
F. Fatty Alcohols C Binding substances used to slow down the destruction

of the product
G. Thickeners E Triglycerides that come from either plant or animal

sources
H. Preservatives N Ingredients used in skin treatment products in order to

bleach or lighten
I. Fragrance H Preserve against microorganisms
J. Sunscreens O General classification of a wide variety of natural or

naturally derived ingredients
K. Anti-oxidants I Not listed individually in the ingredient label
L. Antibacterial K Related to the prevention of skin inflammation and

damage due to the presence of free radicals
M. Vitamins J Block or absorb UV radiation emitted by the sun
N. Lighteners L Ingredient designed to destroy bacteria that can cause

problems such as acne
O. Botanicals F Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
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THE CHALLENGE
Now it’s time to see how 1. TRUE FALSE Organic chemistry deals with all matter that is now living or was alive.
these questions. Then use 2. TRUE FALSE Solids are matter with a definite weight and volume but no shape.
the Memory Box that
follows to check yourself. Solids are matter with definite weight, volume and shape.
3. The process of a substance losing an electron is called oxidation.
the Salon Fundamentals™ 4. What is the branch of science that deals with chemicals and their reactions
within the body?
a. biochemistry
“got it” for all correct b. organic chemistry
answers and “not yet” for c. physical chemistry
all incorrect responses. d. inorganic chemistry
5. The basic material the body uses to construct itself is called:
record all of your cor- a. lipid
rect responses in the “I b. oxygen
Know” column. After c. protein
correcting incorrect d. amino acid
answers, record all of your 6. What is a mixture of two or more chemicals in which each component is evenly dispersed?
corrected responses in the a. gel
“I Need to Study” column. b. solution
That way you know exactly c. mixture
d. powder
continuing in this Guide. 7. Which of the following may contain salts such as calcium and magnesium?
a. HCL
Directions: Identify wheth- b. soft water
er questions 1 and c. hard water
d. moisturizers
circling TRUE or FALSE. 8. What is an even dispersion of a solid substance in a liquid base?
You can earn an extra a. sticks
point for each false b. solution
c. powders
statement you
d. suspension
Question 3 requires you 9. Which ingredient listed below is compatible with both water and oil?
a. fatty acid
b. emulsifier
c. humectant
Answers to the questions d. surfactant
10. Which item below makes up the largest percentage of many cosmetic skin care products?
may be selected by
a. water
circling a, b, c or d below b. aerosols
each statement to indicate c. emulsions
your choice. d. fragrance
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o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
After reading this chapter and becoming familiar with chemistry, it is now your turn to interpret the label from
your favorite cosmetic. In this section, list at least three ingredients from the label and state what each
ingredient’s use is in the product.
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1. VARYING VISCOSITY
alcohol
List three products that you are familiar
with that have varying degrees of
viscosity. Discuss your list with a partner.
crèmes
emollients
2. THEY’RE IN THE BOOK!
List the ingredients from a

cosmetic product and see how
many of the ingredients you can
locate in Salon Fundamentals Esthetics,
Chapter 7.
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knowledge grid
of Chapter 7, Chemistry. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence
KNOW Define chemistry.

Chemistry is the scientific study of matter and the physical and
chemical changes affecting matter.
COMPREHEND Please describe amino acids, proteins and lipids in your own words.
Amino acids are the chemical units that form proteins. Proteins are the basic
materials the body uses to construct itself and be renewed. Lipids are used in many
important biological functions including filling the intercellular spaces in the skin.
APPLY Make a list of the different physical product types and give examples of each type.
PRODUCT TYPE EXAMPLE PRODUCT TYPE EXAMPLE
1. Mixture soap and water 6. Ointment topical pharmacy product for irritated skin
2. Solution toner 7. Stick lipstick
3. Suspension liquid foundation 8. Aerosol deodorant
4. Gel transparent cleanser 9. Emulsion sunscreen
5. Powder eye shadow
ANALYZE Compare and contrast a homogeneous dispersion and a heterogeneous dispersion.
In homogeneous dispersion even blending and distribution is taking place. An example of this is when you mix
Kool-Aid into water. Heterogeneous dispersion is uneven blending and distribution. An example of this is oil and
water in the same container.
SYNTHESIZE Describe the effects of washing hair regularly with hard water.
The use of hard water when washing hair will result in the build up of calcium and magnesium in the hair.
This will result in it being stiffer and thicker than usual.
EVALUATE Justify why all cosmetic products include a list of ingredients.
The knowledge of ingredients helps one to determine the degree of comedogenicity and possibility of allergic
reaction. As a cosmetologist one must be aware of this before using a product on a customer. Also knowing the
ingredient label will help you recommend the proper products for your client.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. What is the scientific study of matter and the physical and chemical changes affecting matter?
a. biology
b. chemistry
c. chemical analysais
d. cosmetic regulations
2. Which type of chemistry deals with all matter that is not alive or never will be?
a. solid chemistry
b. organic chemistry
c. physical chemistry
d. inorganic chemistry
3. This form of matter has a definite weight, volume, and shape:

a. solid
b. gas
c. liquid
d. carbon
4. Skin care lotions are an example of what distinct form of matter?

a. gas
b. solid
c. liquid
d. organic
5. Joining of hydrogen and oxygen to form water is an example of:

a. oxidation
b. reduction
c. physical change
d. chemical change
6. A change in the physical form of a substance without creating a new substance possessing a distinct
material composition is an example of a(n):
a. solid change
b. organic change
c. physical change
d. chemical change
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Brain Conditioners
7. All matter – whether living or non-living, solid, liquid or gas – is made up of:
a. acids
b. bases
c. gases
d. elements
8. Which of the following terms identifies how many protons are in a single atom of an element?
a. atomic number
b. electron number
c. hydrogen number
d. chemical number
9. Which of the following are the smallest complete units of an element?

a. atoms
b. protons
c. neutrons
d. electrons
10. The part of the atom that has no electrical charge is the:
a. protons
b. neutrons
c. electrons
d. electron orbiting shell
11. What is the chemical symbol for sulfur?

a. S
b. O
c. Su
d. Sr
12. What types of atoms have evenly paired electrons in their outermost orbit shell?
a. molecules
b. stable atoms
c. unstable atoms
d. compound atoms
13. The process of a substance losing an electron is called:

a. reduction
b. oxidation
c. ionic bonding
d. covalent bonding
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Brain Conditioners
14. When no “trading” is taking place and the atoms are sharing the electrons,
they are held together by a(n):
a. oxidation
b. reduction
c. ionic bond
d. covalent bond
15. Which of the following is NOT one of the major biochemical compound groups?
a. lipids
b. proteins
c. acid mantle
d. carbohydrates
16. What is the measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline?
a. pH
b. acidity
c. oxidation
d. saturation point
17. What is the normal pH of the skin?

a. 2.3 - 3.3
b. 3.4 - 4.4
c. 4.5 - 5.5
d. 5.6 - 6.6
18. Which of the following terms is defined as a mixture of two or more compounds in which
each component is evenly dispersed in the mixture?
a. gels
b. powders
c. solution
d. suspension
19. What is a substance consisting of two non-mixable substances?

a. aerosols
b. powders
c. ointments
d. emulsions
20. Which of the following is the first ingredient found in the majority of cosmetic
skin care products?
a. water
b. Dimethicone
c. Methylparaben
d. Cyclomethicone
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Brain Conditioners
21. What are the oils and oil-soluble substances named that are used to condition and soften the skin?
a. emulsions
b. emollients
c. fatty acids
d. humectants
22. Which of the following common ingredient groups has benefits that include being anti-inflammatory,
antibacterial, anti-irritant and antioxidant?
a. vitamins
b. botanicals
c. lighteners
d. hydroxyl acids
23. What active ingredient is used to prevent skin inflammation and damage due to free radicals?
a. vitamins
b. lighteners
c. antibacterials
d. antioxidants
24. What current government agency is responsible for regulation of cosmetics?

a. FBI
b. FDA
c. CIA
d. NEA
25. Which of the following is a group of products intended to treat symptoms or cure a
medical condition?
a. drugs
b. cosmetics
c. emulsions
d. humectants
Write Your Own Ticket! For numbers 26, 27 and 28, write your own questions and answer them. Your
26. Q:
A:
27. Q:
A:
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Brain Conditioners
28. Q:
A:
BONUS QUESTION!
Question 29 is the ultimate question. To earn two points, design a question for your class. If you stump
the class and no one can answer the question within an agreed upon time (between you and the teach-
er), you earn a BONUS OF FIVE ADDITIONAL POINTS!
29. Q:
ESSAY QUESTION:
30a. Choose one of the six main sections in this chapter, which include classifications of matter,
biochemical components of the body and skin, understanding pH, cosmetic products, cosmetic
ingredients and cosmetic regulations. Highlight important areas and differences in that section.
Explain that section’s importance in the field of skin care.
Classifications of matter include solids, liquids and gases, which are forms that can be
found in the many products used within the skin care field. Important in this area is the
realization of the difference between physical and chemical changes.
Biochemical components of the body and skin important to skin care include proteins,
carbohydrates and lipids, which all play a major role in the processes of the body. Proteins
help the body renew, carbohydrates impact metabolism and lipids offer support to cellular
functions.
Understanding pH is key to the skin care professional in order to identify the difference between
acid and alkaline products and how they affect the skin.
Knowledge of cosmetic products includes knowing the ingredients by reading the label and then
identifying which products can be used for specific services.
Being familiar with cosmetic ingredients helps the skin care professional select the most suitable
products for each specific client.
Cosmetic regulations provide consumers and skin care professionals with the information
necessary to provide safe and proper use of products.
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Brain Conditioners
30b. List three ingredients of a common skin care product. List the benefits for each ingredient.
Explain the use of each ingredient in the given product.
Three ingredients of a product I use daily are water, Methylparaben and Xanathan Gum. The water
helps dilute the concentration of all ingredients used so they do not cause irritations. Methylparaben
is used as a preservative to increase the length of time the product is usable. Xanathan Gum is added
to the product as an emollient and helps provide a thicker consistency.
30c. Choose three of the following eight physical product types of cosmetic products: Solution, Suspension,
Gel, Powder, Ointment, Stick, Aerosol, or Emulsion. Define and explain the importance of each one.
Also give an example of a product that displays that physical type.
Product Definition Importance Example
1. Powder finely ground solid mixed allows easier use eye shadow
evenly with other ingredients
2. Stick hard, low-level anhydrous allows easier use lipstick

product applied by
rubbing the product
directly on the area
3. Aerosol product packaged under contact with deodorant

pressure and blended with product is limited
a propellant (gas) inside a
container, which is usually
a can
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1. page 217 13. page 224

2. page 218 14. page 224
3. page 218 15. page 225
4. page 218 16. page 228
5. page 219 17 page 229
6. page 219 18. page 232
7. page 220 19. page 233
8. page 220 20. page 236
9. page 221 21. page 237
10. page 221 22. page 239
11. page 221 23. page 243
12. page 222 24. page 247
25. page 248
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Chemistry

received from friends that
helped make learning this
chapter easier and
more enjoyable.
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8
SKIN P HY S IOLOG Y
VALUE MAIN IDEA
A working understanding of skin The skin is amazing! It is the largest and

physiology, especially the structure and perhaps most sensitive organ of the human
functions of the skin, is a prerequisite body. It directs our bodily responses to
to success as an esthetician. everything with which we come into contact.
It breathes, regulating body temperature. It
protects, shielding the body from invasion of
dangerous microorganisms. Because its
surface is thin enough to be stimulated by
a touch, it can be a source of great pleasure
when treated with care and expert attention.
Knowledge of the structure, functions and

conditions of the skin is the tool you need to
recognize and work with different skin types
and conditions.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
The n Functions of the Skin n Explain the six primary functions of

Integumentary n Layers of the Skin the skin.
System n Describe the basic physiology of the skin
and its appendages.
Skin Care n Skin Cell Formation n State the process of skin cell formation.
n Skin Behavior n Identify the factors that influence
n Skin Conditions ingredient penetration to affect
skin behavior.
n List the common conditions of the skin
under the categories of rashes, lesions,
infections, acne, sebaceous and
sudoriferous gland disorders, rosacea,
pigmentation, growths and aging.
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smartNOTES
Chapter 8 Skin Physiology The Integumentary System Pages 259-260
n Functions of
the Skin M 1 Explain the six primary functions of the skin
Skin Physiology The study of the skin’s functions
Skin Histology Microscopic study of the skin’s tissues
Integumentary System Made up of the skin and its layers; the skin is the largest organ of the body and,
next to the brain, the most complex
Dermatology Study of the skin, its structure, functions, diseases and treatment
Dermatologist Physician who specializes in diagnosing and treating diseases of the skin, hair and nails
n 6 Functions
of the Skin
Protection Shields internal tissues from toxins such as pollutants, smoke, ultraviolet
radiation and other chemicals; barrier to infectious bacteria; first line of defense;
immune cells, such as Langerhans cells, identify foreign substances in the skin
Absorption Skin absorbs vitamins, acids, water and oxygen through thousands of pores to
moisturize, nourish and protect
Secretion Sebum is secreted via the sebaceous glands to keep skin soft and supple;
helps form protective barrier, known as acid mantle; sebum affects the skin’s pH
Excretion Body’s largest waste removal system; waste released through sweat glands
and pores; sweat is water mixed with salt and other chemicals
Regulation Skin helps maintain constant internal temperature of 98.6° F (37°Celsius);
regulates the body’s temperature through mechanisms such as shivering and
goosebumps; skin changes blood flow to regulate body temperature;
temperature drops – blood flow increases; temperature increases – sudoriferous
glands secrete sweat
Sensation Skin contains millions of nerve end fibers that transport stimuli sent from
the brain and spinal cord to the corresponding parts of the body; nerve end
fibers detect heat, cold, pain, pressure and touch
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smartNOTES
n
M 2
Layers of the Skin

Describe the basic physiology of the skin and its appendages
Keratin Major protein substance that contains several chemical elements such as carbon,
oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur
1. Hard keratin
Makes up the fingernails and hair
2. Soft keratin
Makes up the skin
Three Main Layers

1 Epidermis (cuticle or scarf skin); outermost layer
of the Skin
2 Dermis (dermal) 2nd layer; derma; corium; cutis; true skin
Subcutaneous (subcutis or subdermis) below dermis;

3 made of adipose (fatty) tissue
Epidermis The outermost layer of the skin visible to the eye; protective layer; no blood vessels;
made of keratinocytes and epithelial cells; divided into five layers
5 Layers of the Epidermis 1. Stratum Corneum

1-Stratum Corneum
n Top layer of the epidermis; toughest layer
n Acts as a protective barrier to the layers below
n Keratinocytes are continually shed and replaced by new cells

from the layers below (remain 28 days)
n Keratinization – a chemical conversion of living cells into

dead protein cells
n Squamous cells provide protection and prevent moisture loss
n Skin thickest on feet; thinnest on eyelids
n Desmosomes are the intercellular connections that tightly

interconnect the keratinocytes (creates waterproof ability)
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2-Stratum Lucidum 2. Stratum Lucidum
n Thickest on palms and soles
n Transparent layer that lies between the stratum corneum and

stratum granulosum
n Forms the epidermal ridges or whorls that provide friction on

your palms and soles to allow traction
3-Stratum Granulosum 3. Stratum Granulosum
n Contains tiny granule-shaped cells; replace cells in the stratum

corneum
n Contains a substance called keratohyalin
n Organelles - structures or components that perform specific

functions for each cell
n Keratohyalin = protein substance that forms keratin
n Primary function of protection begins here
4. Stratum Spinosum
4-Stratum Spinosum
n Called the “spiny layer” because of desmosomes (intercellular
connections) which provide strength and support between
cells; appear as spines; 8 to 10 layers
n Contains Langerhans cells, which help protect the body from

infection
n Antigens are foreign substances; provoke an immune

response in the body
n Langerhans cells “see” the antigen and alert other cells; attack
and destroy the antigenic; T-cells (immune cells) assist in
destroying antigens
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5-Stratum
5. Stratum Germinativum
Germinativum
n Lowest layer of the epidermis; also called basal layer

n Mitosis (continual division of cells) replaces cells lost in
stratum corneum every 25-30 days
n Contains 5 to 10 layers
n Hemidesmosomes (half a desmosome) attach the stratum
germinativum to the dermis forming what is called the
basement membrane
n Basal cells become keratinocytes
n Merkel cells, touch receptors or sensory cells that are only
found in thick skin
n Melanocytes give skin its color
n Melanosomes intracellular vesicles which maintain melanin
produced from melanocytes
Dermis Referred to as the “true skin”; 25 times thicker than epidermis; layer that is
completely alive; functions as the skin’s main support structure; nourishes
lower epidermis; rich in capillaries and blood vessels; composed of a semi-fluid,
jelly-like substance containing fibroblast cells, collagen protein and elastin fibers
Components of
1 Fibroblast Cells 2 Elastin
the Dermis
n Responsible for the n A fibrous protein that
formation of fibers forms elastic tissue
n Aid in the production of n Contributes to the stretch
collagen and elastin and elasticity of skin;
can stretch to twice the
original vessel length
3 Collagen
n Strong protein substance n Excessive amounts of
that strengthens and collagen produce thick, raised
gives structure to the skin scars called keloids as well as
n Major component in hypertrophic scars (thickening
wound healing and scar of fibers)
formation n Makes up 70% of dermis
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Mast Cells Respond to allergies by releasing histamines

Papillary Dermis Lies directly underneath the epidermis; rich in blood vessels and capillaries, which
provide nutrients to the upper layer; houses sensory nerve endings called receptors
Primary Papillary Receptors
Pain Receptors Free nerve endings not associated with cells; detect extreme temperatures,
mechanical surface injury, and chemical applications
Thermoreceptors Free nerve ending located in the dermis; 3 or 4 times more cold receptors than heat
receptors; respond when temperature is changing; adapt quickly to stable temperature
Mechanoreceptors Sense stretching, compressing or twisting of skin
Tactile Receptors Sense gentle touch, pressure or vibrations
Sensation Receptors Four main receptors for sensation

1. Meissner’s Corpuscles - light pressure and cold receptors
2. Ruffini’s Corpuscles - long-term pressure and heat receptors
3. Pacinian Corpuscles - deep pressure and pain receptors
4. Krause’s End Bulbs - pressure and pain receptors
Reticular Dermis Lowest layer of the dermis; in direct contact with the subcutaneous layer; contains
the collagen and elastin fibers; contains fewer blood vessels
Primary Reticular
Components
Sudoriferous Glands Produce sweat, a mixture of water, urea, electrolytes and lactic acid
Controlled by the body’s nervous system; appendages of the skin
Duct and Ductless Glands Endocrine Glands
n Release their secretions (hormones) into the blood

n Known as ductless glands
Exocrine Glands
n Release their secretions into ducts
n Similar to sweat glands and sebaceous glands
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Two Types of Apocrine Glands Eccrine Glands

Duct Sweat Glands n Sweat glands located under the n Sweat glands located throughout the
arms, in the genitals and the entire body
nipples
n Most abundant on the forehead, the
n Secrete an odorless substance palms of the hands and soles of the feet
n Triggered by emotions rather n Open directly onto the skin surface
than hormones through pores
n Develop odor as they attack n Influenced by the sympathetic nervous
bacteria on skin system
n Associated with hair follicle n Most active when the body is subject
to physical activities and high temperatures
n Responsible for lowering body
temperature
Sebaceous Glands Sebaceous Glands

n Continually produce and secrete sebum, a complex mixture of fatty substances
n Known as oil glands
n Distributed all over the surface of the body except palms and soles
n Largest number found on forehead, nose and back
n Attached to upper third of hair follicle; 2 to 3 times larger around facial hair
than scalp hair
n Amount of sebum is influenced by androgen (male hormone found in men and women)
n Appendage of the skin; other appendages include hair and nails
n Located in the dermis
Acid Mantle Layer of oil and moisture formed when sebum mixes with secretions of the glands; natural pH
of 4.5 to 5.5; located in the epidermis; creates an acidic environment hostile to bacterial growth
Arrector Pili Muscles that are connected to each hair follicle

Contract to cause hair to stand on end
Push sebum from the glands to the openings of the hair follicles
Contract reflexively in response to cold to increase the thickness of the insulating “coat”
Subcutaneous Layer Called the subcutis or subdermis

n Body’s cushioning; acts as a shock absorber to protect and
support bones and other delicate structures
n Gives contour and shape
n Serves as an emergency energy reserve
n Contains some components of the sweat glands and some
sensory nerves that recognize touch, pressure and temperature;
mainly composed of adipose (fatty) cells and loose connective tissue
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Chapter 8 Skin Physiology The Integumentary System Page 269
Five Types of Tissue Types of Tissue Location

1. Epithelial epidermis
2. Connective dermis
3. Muscular muscles
4. Nerve nerves
5. Liquid blood and lymph
Four examples of Collagen and elastin – attaches the epidermis to the subcutaneous tissue
Connective Tissue Ligaments – hold bones to other bones
Tendons – “tie” muscles to bone
Cartilage – lines the parts of the bone that rub against each other in joints
In what ways do the functions of the skin affect the condition of the entire body?
The condition of the entire body is affected by the protection it receives from foreign substances,
absorption of vitamins, acids, water and oxygen for nourishment, secretion of sebum to keep it
supple, excretion to remove toxins, regulation of temperature to maintain systems and sensation
to detect heat, cold, pain, pressure and touch.
L E A RNI NG C ONN ECTION Skin Structure
The layers of the skin are shown on the left. Beside each layer is a series of numbers.
Fill in the numbered oval that matches the description on the right.
1. Body’s cushioning
2. Insulates and acts as a

Epidermis 1 2 3 4 5 6 shock absorber
3. Outermost layer of
the skin
Dermis 1 2 3 4 5 6
4. True skin
Subcutaneous 1 2 3 4 5 6
5. Skin’s main support
Layer system
6. Provides a protective
barrier
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Chapter 8 Skin Physiology Skin Care Pages 272-274
n
M 3 State the process of skin cell formation
Skin Cell Formation Formation of new skin cells and the rate of cell turnover is dependent on factors
such as age, sun exposure, use of exfoliation agents, treatments and skin conditions;
aging causes a decrease in lipids and moisture in epidermis; dead skin cells
remain on the surface longer
Exfoliation Removal of dead skin; stimulates new cell growth by removing a degree of stratum corneum
Mechanical (Manual) Exfoliation Chemical Exfoliation

Physical process of removing dead skin cells by Process of using natural substances (enzymes or alpha
using an abrasive action and a product hydroxy acids) in conjunction with other ingredients to
cause a chemical reaction to remove dead skin cells
M
n
4 Identify the factors that influence ingredient penetration to affect skin behavior
Skin Behavior Main function is to act as a barrier to protect our internal organs
Pathway to allow some molecules to pass through and penetrate the skin via the epidermis
Transdermal Penetration The thicker the stratum corneum, the greater the resistance to product penetration
6 Factors Affecting 1. Condition of the Stratum Corneum

Skin Absorption: Thicker or heavier the stratum corneum - the slower the rate of penetration
2. Hydration Level
More moisture in the skin - the slower the rate of penetration
3. Oiliness of the Skin
Higher the amount of oil present on skin’s surface - the slower the rate of penetration
4. Size of the Product’s Molecules
Larger the molecules of the product being used - the slower the rate of penetration
5. Temperature of the Skin
Higher the temperature of the skin - slower the rate of penetration; extremely hot
or cold skin temperatures slow the rate
6. Pore Size
The larger the size of the pores - the faster the rate of penetration
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Chapter 8 Skin Physiology Skin Care Pages 273-274, 277-278
Absorption Process Four primary ways products are absorbed into the skin
1. Through the pores 3. Through intercellular cement
2. Through hair follicles 4. Through sebaceous and sudoriferous glands
M 5
n
List the common conditions of the skin under the categories of lesions, rashes, infections,
sebaceous and sudoriferous gland disorders, pigmentation, growths and aging
Conditions
of the Skin
Rashes Skin conditions that are apparent by the visible reaction on the surface of the skin;
characteristics include small red bumps, urticaria (hives), blisters, scales and
erythema (redness)
Atopic Dermatitis Hereditary or inflammation rash characterized by dry, sensitive, irritated skin; can
progress throughout a lifetime; excess inflammation in the skin, linings of the
nose or lungs; worsens in winter; treatments include applying heavy moisturizing
lotions or steroid crèmes, after bathing or use of a humidifier
Contact Dermatitis Allergic or non-allergic rash, caused by contact with an external substance
Characterized by a red, itchy, irritated eruption in specific area of contact with
a substance
Dermatitis Common skin rash with redness and scaly, pinkish-yellow patches that have an
oily appearance; form of eczema; usually affects the scalp
Treatments include special shampoos; steroid crèmes
Psoriasis Non-contagious inherited condition that produces an excess of thick, scaly,

silvery skin patches surrounded by a red area; not curable
Treatments include coal tar preparations, steroid crèmes, Vitamin A crèmes,
ultraviolet light therapy and in severe cases, prescription medication
Eczema Characterized by dry or moist lesions, an eruption of small vesicles and watery
discharge; non-contagious; may be chronic or acute; seborrheic dermatitis is a
form of eczema; skin care treatments should NOT be performed on clients with
active conditions
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Chapter 8 Skin Physiology Skin Care Pages 275-276, 278
Hives Allergic reaction that produce an eruption of wheals (raised pink swellings or welts);
triggered by a release of histamine in the body; also referred to as urticaria
Treatments include antihistamines
Skin Lesions Change in the structure of the skin tissue caused by injury, damage or skin
conditions and diseases; 2 types of lesions - primary & secondary
Primary Skin Lesions
Macule Discoloration on skin’s surface; flat areas that are rounded, oval or irregular
Wheal Solid, raised pink swelling or welt above the skin; often caused by insect bites
or allergic reaction
Papule Small elevation of the skin, usually inflammatory, that does not contain pus
Pustule Small inflamed elevation, the next step in the progression from a papule; filled
with bacterial fluid, and pus
Vesicle Fluid-filled elevation in the skin caused by localized accumulation of fluids or blood
just below the epidermis; also known as a blister; bulla is a lesion like a vesicle but larger
Nodule Solid mass within the skin; maybe soft or hard, fixed or freely moving
Cyst Abnormal membranous sac containing a gaseous liquid or semi-solid substance
Secondary Skin Lesions

Crust Dried mass that is the remains of an oozing sore; e.g., scab or sore
Excoriation Mechanical abrasion to the epidermis; appears bright to dark red; e.g.,
scratches to skin
Scale Shedding of a dead skin cell of the uppermost layer of the epidermis; e.g., dandruff
Scar Formation resulting from a lesion; part of healing process; e.g., keloids
Fissure Crack or line in the skin that may go as deep as the dermis
Ulcer Open lesion visible on the surface of the skin that may result in the loss of
portions of the dermis and may be accompanied by pus; skin care service may
not be performed
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Skin Infections A pathogenic bacteria or virus entering the body or skin and multiplying to the
point of interfering with the body’s normal state; esthetician avoids infected
areas when performing treatments
Herpes Simplex Highly contagious viral infection which causes an eruptive, blister-like cluster
found on the mucus membranes or skin around the mouth, nose, or genital
area; e.g., Herpes Simplex 1 – cold sore; Herpes Simplex 2 – genital herpes;
avoid treatment until lesions are dry (7 to 14 days)
Herpes Zoster Caused by the Varicella-Zoster virus (a relative of Herpes family that causes
chickenpox); clients who have not developed a complete immunity to chickenpox
in childhood are more susceptible to this virus; lesions are contagious
Impetigo Highly contagious bacterial infection caused by Staphylococcus Aureus or
Streptococcus A organism; produces a honey-yellow, crusted lesion commonly found
on the face, scalp, and/or neck; can be transmitted by improperly disinfected tools
Tinea Medical term for ringworm; contagious fungal disease characterized by red, circular
patch of blisters; caused by fungal vegetable parasite; no treatments may be
performed until physician treats
Tinea Corporis Fungal infection affecting trunk, legs, or arms; characterized by pink to red
rash and itching
Tinea Versicolor Pityriasis versicolor; commonly known as tri-color yeast infection; non-contagious;
produces areas that lack pigment; mistaken for vitiligo
Warts Viral infections on the top layer of skin caused by the Human Papilloma
Virus (HPV); produces rough keratotic skin growths found on the hands, fingers,
feet and genitals; contagious; wear gloves or avoid area during treatments
Candida Albicans Caused by yeast; fungus characterized by red, well-demarcated patches with a
white film around them; found in the folds of the skin under the breast, arms,
groin, inside of mouth, and in vaginal area
Pink Eye Very contagious form of conjunctivitis; inflammation of membrane that
lines the eyelids
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Chapter 8 Skin Physiology Skin Care Page 281
Sebaceous Gland Overactivity or underactivity of the sebaceous glands; produces a variety of skin
Disorders conditions
Asteatosis Also called xerosis, a condition of dry, scaly skin caused by reduced sebum production
Seborrhea Condition caused by excess secretion of sebaceous glands
Steatoma Wens; harmless sebaceous cyst filled with sebum, considered a tumor of the
sebaceous gland; appear on scalp, neck or back; range in size from a pea to an orange
Furuncle Boil; painful infection that appears as a firm, nodule with a central, hard,
pus-filled core; involves 1 hair follicle
Carbuncle Group of boils; very painful, acute bacterial infection characterized by

inflammation that involves several hair follicles and adjacent subcutaneous tissue;
larger than boils; tendency to spread
Rosacea Chronic inflammatory condition of the face in which the small capillaries of the face
become dilated and inflamed; condition is accompanied by red, acne-type pustules
and papules; commonly appears in individuals around age of 35; can be seen in a
wide variety of age groups; more prevalent in the fair skin types and women
Dilated capillaries at the surface of the skin are called telangiectasia
Rosacea Treatment Rosacea tends to have periods of flare-ups followed by stable periods; can be
treated with a topical anti-inflammatory as well as topical anti-yeast medication
such as Metronidazole or Metrogel
Rhinophyma Severe relative of rosacea; individual develops swelling and enlargement of

the nose tissue
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Acne Chronic inflammatory disorder of the sebaceous glands

Occurs when hair follicles become plugged with sebum, dead skin cells and
bacteria called Propionibacterium, or P. acnes bacteria
n Anaerobic bacteria that flourishes in the absence of oxygen
n Irritates and inflames the hair follicle lining causing the oil gland to become clogged
Causes of Acne Hormonal and genetic factors are the two major influences for the cause of acne
Other Causes
n Emotional stress
n Medications
n Greasy or humid environment
n Steroids
n Hormone changes
n Skin surface friction and irritation
Acne is caused by excess androgen, produced in the adrenal glands of both men
and women which stimulates the sebaceous glands; mainly occurs in teenagers
between 10 and 19 years of age; acne erupts when androgens are released causing
the hair follicle lining to shed cells more rapidly and produce sebum at an
increased rate; combination of sebum and shed cells plugs the opening of the
follicle, causing the follicle to swell and block oxygen from entering; bacteria
contributes to the inflammation
Deeper acne lesions cause damage to dermal layer, and if left untreated can
cause pitting and scars
Advice on Acne Do not touch lesions Do not squeeze lesions

n Spreads bacteria n Forces infected material deeper
n Can lead to more acne n Can cause more inflammation and scarring
n Can damage the dermis
n Cause discoloration
n Possible scarring
Recommend a home care treatment program

Involve a client in a series of facial treatments for acne
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Types of Acne
Blackhead An open follicle with a black surface plug
Also referred to as an open comedo
Whitehead A plugged sebaceous gland with an opening not widely dilated and the follicle
begins to bulge
Generally soft, lack inflammation, and are easy to extract
A small elevation of the skin
Papule Usually inflammatory and do not contain pus
Can progress and become pustules
A small inflamed elevation
Pustule Progression from a pustule
Filled wih bacterial fluid and pus
Appear red and cloudy or white
Pearly white enclosed cyst
Milia Hard to the touch and difficult to remove since it is trapped beneath a layer of skin
Referred to as “baby acne” or whiteheads
Results from aggressive exfoliation and damage to the skin
Nodular Cystic Acne Inflammatory hard lesions found deeper in the skin
Should not be treated by an esthetician
Acne Myths
“Acne is caused by Food does not cause acne - not chocolate, french
a poor diet” fries nor pizza
“You just have to

Acne can be cleared up; advise to see a
let acne run its
dermatologist
course”
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Chapter 8 Skin Physiology Skin Care Page 284
Grades of Acne
Description
Mild acne consisting of open and closed comedones scattered over less
Grade 1 Acne than half of the areas of the face or back.
Treatments include
Anti-bacterial cleanser and mild or enzyme exfoliation – follow with gentle
effleurage strokes or Dr. Jacquet movements and a mud or clay mask.
Description
Moderate acne with an increased number of open and closed comedones
as well as an occasional papule or pustule.
Grade 2 Acne
Treatments include
Same as above. Omit effleurage and perform only Dr. Jacquet movements.
Proper home care is imperative.
Description
Moderately severe acne characterized by numerous open and closed
Grade 3 Acne comedones, papules, pustules and occasional cysts. It is frequently red
and inflamed. Some acne scarring can start especially with the cystic
lesions or acne lesions that have been picked or excoriated.
Treatments include
Do not treat. Refer to a physician.
Description
Severe acne consists of numerous papules and pustules as well as a large
number of cysts on the face, chest and/or back. Large cystic lesions leave
Grade 4 Acne deep scarring. The acne can occur over 50% of the face.
Treatments include
Do not treat. Refer to a physician.
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Acne Treatments Include topical therapy and medication, oral medication or various other treatments
Topical Therapies 1. Benzoyl Peroxide

Ingredient used to dry and exfoliate
Releases oxygen, helps kill the bacteria
2. Topical Antibiotics
Prescribed medications that dry the skin and kill the bacteria that cause the acne
3. Retin-A®
A powerful form of Vitamin A that dries the skin and promotes rapid exfoliation
4. Azaleic Acid
An acid that promotes drying and cell turnover
5. Salicylic Acid
A beta hydroxy acid that mildly dries and promotes cell turnover
6. Glycolic Acid
An alpha hydroxy acid that breaks the bonds that connect skin cells
together allowing for cell turnover and exfoliation
Oral therapies—use of antibiotics such as Tetracycline, Minocycline and Erythromycin
Accutane® Also called Isotretinoin
Prescribed only in severe case of Grade 3 and 4 acne
Other treatments range from intra-lesion injections to liquid nitrogen, incision
and drainage of pustules, intense pulsed light and laser, and light chemical peeling.
Sudoriferous Gland
Disorders
Bromidosis Called osmidrosis; a foul-smelling perspiration caused by the yeast and bacteria
that break down the sweat on wet skin
Anhidrosis Lack of perspiration caused by failure of the sweat glands; often caused by fever or
illness and requires medical attention
Hyperhidrosis Over-production of perspiration caused by excessive heat or general body weakness
Miliaria Rubra Acute burning, itching rash, caused by excessive heat; also known as prickly heat;
most often found on the trunk or thighs
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Skin Growths Small projections on the skin resulting from a variety of causes
Benign Growths Regular shape, flesh or brown color, symmetrical and can be raised or flat
or Moles Can occur anywhere on the body
Are harmless and non-cancerous, can be removed; once removed, usually don’t
grow back; should be monitored for abnormal growth; skin tags = small elevated,
growths that can easily be removed by a physician
Often found where the skin frequently rubs together or against clothing
Pre-malignant Growths Share similar characteristics in appearance to malignant growths
Flat or raised and are irregular in shape and border

Color is irregular, can be shades of black, brown, red, blue or white
Growths tend to be asymmetrical and more than 6 mm in size
Actinic keratosis = common pre-malignant growths on the skin
Malignant Growths Cancerous lesions and should be referred to a physician and treated immediately
Basal Cell Carcinomas Common malignant lesions; appear translucent, have irregular borders and tiny
blood vessels running through them; can occur anywhere on the body, but
typically in sun-exposed areas – nose and eyes
Invade surrounding tissue and must be removed surgically
Squamous Cell Irregular, crusted red papule that occurs in sun-exposed areas
Carcinoma
May be an actinic keratosis that went untreated
Melanoma Dangerous and need to be completely removed since they will invade lymph nodes
Most dangerous skin growth; evolve from flat or raised pigmented lesions
anywhere on the body
Untreated Growths Untreated growths will change in color, size and shape and, over time,
develop from pre-malignant growth to malignant melanoma
If client has lesions that look suspicious, send him or her to a physician immediately
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Guidelines for Skin

A Asymmetry Asymmetrical or inconsistent growths on a client should
Growths be referred to a physician
B Border Border of the growth should have a well-defined edge

and not “bleed” into the surrounding skin
C Color Color should be consistent and not vary within growth
D Diameter Diameter of the growth should be no larger than an

eraser head on a pencil
Pigmentation A result of the excess, or lack thereof, of melanin production in a particular area
Disorders of the skin
Albinism Group of inherited conditions that results in the failure of the skin to produce melanin
(oculocutaneous)
Persons with albinism have pale skin, white-blonde hair and light and blue eyes
– strong hypersensitivity to light and sun
Leukoderma Congenital skin condition in which the skin lacks pigmentation
(hypopigmentation) due to a decrease in melanocyte activity; occasionally the
result of a congenital defect such as albinism; can cause partial or total loss of
skin pigmentation
Vitiligo Acquired skin disease characterized by white patches that are caused by a loss of
pigment in a number of melanin cells
Nevus Birthmark or a congenital mole; may appear like a stain on the face or other part
of body; flat, reddish-purple mark
Lentigo Known as a freckle, small yellowish or brownish spot on the skin, particularly on
the face, hands or neck; typically multiplies due to sun exposure
Post Inflammatory Condition that results from trauma to tissues from acne, burns, injury or some
Hyperpigmentation
skin rashes such as dermatitis or psoriasis; creates flat, darkened patches that are
irregular in shape and appear anywhere that the inflammation occurred;
treatments are available to lighten this pigmentation
Chloasma or Melasma A common disorder in pregnant women which results in increased pigmentation
causing flat, light to dark patches to occur on the face; commonly known as the
“mask of pregnancy”; improves over time when hormone levels drop after pregnancy
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Aging Factors Aging is a natural process that skin progresses through; divided into two parts:
intrinsic and extrinsic aging
Intrinsic Aging Skin’s natural aging process; intrinsic factors are affected by the genetic
composition inherited from our parents; diseases and conditions, such as
diabetes, can also affect the general health and rate the skin ages
Extrinsic Aging Caused by external factors that are within an individual’s control
Number one factor is amount of exposure to the sun over a lifetime
Sun Exposure Most important factor in extrinsic aging is the amount of sun an individual receives
A large percentage of extrinsic aging caused by the sun can be avoided; natural or
intrinsic aging without the influence of sun produces very little change to the
skin’s structure and general appearance
Smoking and n Affects the vitamin levels in the skin that are responsible for preventing aging
Alcohol n Affects blood circulation within the skin
n Smoking tends to produce linear wrinkles around the mouth
n Alcohol is known to dehydrate the skin
Important Terms
Acute Identifies conditions that are intense and severe
Allergen Substance that causes an allergy
Allergy Sensitivity from contact with normally harmless substances such as fragrances
Chronic Identifies conditions that are frequent and habitual
Contagious A disease that is communicable by contact
Dermatitis Inflammatory disorder of the skin
Dermatitis Venenata Allergic reaction to certain cosmetics or chemicals
Diagnosis Identification of a disease based on the presence of certain characteristics
Edema Swelling of tissue or skin, caused by an excessive accumulation of fluid in the tissue
Erythema Redness of the skin caused by dilation or congestion of the capillaries
Etiology Study of the cause of diseases, disorders or conditions
Hyperkeratosis Excessive amount of keratin cell production on the stratum corneum
Inflammation Objective symptom characterized by redness, pain, swelling and/or
increased temperature
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Dr. Thomas B. Fitzpatrick Father of modern academic dermatology; created universally accepted system for
classifying skin types according to tolerance and reaction to ultraviolet radiation

More important terms
Keratosis Buildup of skin cells on the epidermis
Objective Symptoms Symptoms that are visible to the eye
Occupational Disorder Skin condition that is influenced by the employment environment
Parasitic Disease Skin condition that is caused by animal or vegetable parasites
Pathology Study of diseases and disorders themselves; their causes, processes, development
and consequences
Prognosis Making a claim in regard to the direction a condition, disorder or disease will take
Pruritus Inflammation in the skin that causes severe itching, usually on undamaged skin
Seasonal Disease Skin condition or disorder that is influenced by the weather or seasonal changes
Subjective Symptoms Symptoms that can be felt by the client but not visible
Systemic Disease Disease that is active internally throughout the body system
Why is it important to be familiar with characteristics and causes of common skin disorders?
A skin care specialist needs to be familiar with the characteristics and causes of common skin
disorders in order to know if there are limitations that should be considered before offering
treatment and/or if a client should be referred to a physician to seek treatment.
L E A RNI NG C ONNECTION Skin Growths
Using the A, B, C, D below, list the four guidelines for determining

whether you should refer a client to a physician for further examination.
A= Asymmetry Growth should be symmetrical or consistently round in shape.
B= Border
The border of the growth should have a definitive edge and not “bleed.”
C= Color The color should be consistent and not vary within growth.
D= Diameter The diameter of the growth should be no larger than an eraser head on a pencil.
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1. Describing and Discussing the Main Skin Layers

1. Epidermis List the three main layers of the
n Outermost layer of the skin
skin. Then, with a partner, describe
n Protective layer
n Primary function is to keep the insides in and the outside out and discuss the importance of
each layer.
2. Dermis
n Second layer of the skin and referred to as “true skin”
n Skin’s main support structure
3. Subcutaneous
n Body’s cushioning
n Acts as a shock absorber to protect the bones
n Helps support other delicate structures
2. Explaining the Functions of Skin

1. Protection: shields internal tissue from toxins; acts as a List and explain the six primary
barrier to infectious bacteria and to extreme cold and heat functions of the skin. Discuss the
2. Absorption: vitamins, acids, along with water and oxygen are importance of each one with your
absorbed to provide necessary moisture, nourishment and partner and give a real life example
protection of a function you may have
3. Secretion: the skin secretes sebum which serves as barrier to experienced in the past.
prevent bacteria from invading the skin
4. Excretion: releases toxins and waste material through the
sweat glands and pores
5. Regulation: regulates the body’s temperature through
mechanisms such as shivering and goose bumps; the skin also
changes blood flow to regulate body temperature
6. Sensation: the skin contains millions of nerve end fibers and,
because stimuli are sent from the brain and spinal cord to the
corresponding parts of the body, humans can detect sensations
such as heat, cold, pain, pressure and touch
3. Aging and Skin Care

The role extrinsic aging plays in skin care is visible as in Describe extrinsic aging and the role
hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles and a loss of elasticity of
it plays in skin care.
the skin.
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1. TRUE FALSE Skin physiology is the study of the skin’s functions.
THE CHALLENGE
Now it’s time to see how 2. TRUE FALSE The dermis is the outermost layer of the skin and provides the body
well you know your new with protection from the environment.
material. First answer The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and provides the body with protection
the Memory Box that from the environment.
Look up each answer on 3. Keratinization is defined as the chemical conversion of living cells into dead
the corresponding page in protein cells?
the Salon Fundamentals™ 4. What is often referred to as the true skin?
Esthetics textbook. Check a. dermis
b. epidermis
c. melanocytes
answers and “not yet” for d. subcutaneous layer
5. Where are the apocrine glands located on the body?
a. on the hands
record all of your correct b. on the feet
responses in the “I c. under the arms
Know” column. After d. beneath the hair follicles
correcting incorrect 6. Sebum mixes with the secretions of the sweat glands, creating a layer of oil and
answers, record all of your moisture called the:
corrected responses in the a. dermis
“I Need to Study” column. b. acid mantle
c. stratum corneum
d. subcutaneous layer
continuing in this Guide. 7. Which layer of the skin provides the body with cushion that insulates and acts as a
shock absorber?
a. dermis
Directions: Identify
b. epidermis
whether questions 1 and c. stratum corneum
2 are True or False by d. subcutaneous layer
8. What refers to the change in the structure of the skin tissue?
You can earn an extra a. bulla
point for each false b. edema
statement you c. lesions
appropriately correct. d. dermatitis
Question 3 requires you 9. This type of acne is mild and consists of open and closed comedones scattered over
to write in an answer less than half of the area of the face or back?
in the blank provided. a. Grade 1
b. Grade 2
Answers to the questions
c. Grade 3
found in 4 through 10 d. Grade 4
may be selected by
10. What is a substance that causes an allergy?
circling a, b, c or d below a. acute
each statement to indicate b. allergen
your choice. c. edema
d. parasitic disease
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o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
Describe a skin condition with which you are familiar. Name the specific disease and give the characteristics
of the disease and also describe a treatment that would be appropriate for the given condition.
Please refer to pages 275 through 295 for appropriate responses.
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knowledge grid
of Chapter 8, Skin Physiology. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence
KNOW Define mechanical and chemical exfoliation.
Mechanical exfoliation, meaning more “by hand,” is using granular products or implements to
cause exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation is using agents such as enzyme, retinols, and glycolic acids.
COMPREHEND Describe the five layers of the epidermis and note their primary function.
Layers of the Epidermis Primary Function Layers of the Epidermis Primary Function
1. Stratum Corneum Shedding of cells 4. Stratum Spinosum Strength and support
between cells
2. Stratum Lucidum Provides traction for grasping
3. Stratum Granulosum Provides beginning of protection 5. Stratum Geminativum Cellular growth
APPLY Make a list of the different types of skin conditions.
Lesions Rashes Infections Sebacaceous Gland Disorders Acne

Rosacea Skin Growths Pigmentation Disorders Sudoriferous Gland Disorders Aging Factor
ANALYZE Compare and contrast primary and secondary lesions of the skin.
Primary lesions are changes in the structure of the skin that appear in the early stages of a disease. Examples
include bulla, papula and pustule. Secondary lesions are the skin lesions that appear as a disease progresses into the
later stages of development that require treatment by a physician. Examples include crust and excoriation.
SYNTHESIZE Draw a cross-sectional view of the skin, label each of the layers and explain their
importance to our general health and well being.
Epidermis Provides a protective barrier to the body
Dermis Functions as the skin’s main support structure
Subcutaneous Layer Provides the body with cushioning that

insulates and absorbs shocks
EVALUATE Justify the requirement to be familiar with characteristics and causes of common skin disorders.
Having a complete understanding of the layers, components and functioning of the skin is necessary in order
to provide your clients with healthy skin and visible results from treatments. The skin is the esthetician’s
canvas—the core foundation of the business of esthetics.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. The study of the skin’s functions is referred to as:

a. etiology
b. histology
c. morphology
d. skin physiology
2. This is the largest organ of the human body:

a. brain
b. liver
c. kidney
d. skin
3. What is an opening that contains the root of a hair?

a. hair follicle
b. skin follicle
c. eccrine glands
d. sebaceous glands
4. Which medical branch pertains to the study of the skin, its structure, functions, diseases and treatments?
a. histology
b. optometry
c. physiology
d. dermatology
5. This is the outermost layer of the skin and provides the body with its protective barrier:
a. dermis
b. epidermis
c. appendages
d. subcutaneous layer
6. What is a strong protein substance that, when broken down, forms bundles that strengthen and
give structure to the skin?
a. collagen
b. epidermis
c. melanocytes
d. melanosomes
7. The dermis is divided into two layers the papillary and the:
a. elastin dermis
b. reticular dermis
c. sebaceous dermis
d. subcutaneous dermis
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Brain Conditioners
8. What do the sudoriferous glands produce?

a. water
b. sweat
c. saliva
d. tears
9. Sebaceous glands continually produce and secrete:

a. sweat
b. saliva
c. sebum
d. tears
10. What type of exfoliation is a physical process that uses an abrasive action combined with a product?
a. soft exfoliation
b. hard exfoliation
c. chemical exfoliation
d. mechanical exfoliation
11. All of the following are primary ways that products are absorbed into the skin EXCEPT:
a. through the pores
b. through the hair follicles
c. through intercellular cement
d. through arrector pilli muscles
12. What is a factor that influences a faster rate at which an ingredient or product penetrates the skin?
a. hydration level
b. oiliness of the skin
c. larger pore size
d. size of the product’s molecules
13. What is a small elevation of the skin, usually inflammatory that does not contain pus?
a. papule
b. bulla
c. pustule
d. vesicle
14. What is a crack or line in the skin that may go as deep as the dermis?
a. fissure
b. crust
c. scale
d. scar
15. What is a highly contagious viral infection, which lays along a nerve root that causes an eruptive,
blister-like cluster?
a. Impetigo
b. Psoriasis
c. Herpes Zoster
d. Herpes Simplex
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Brain Conditioners
16. What is a chronic inflammatory condition of the face in which the small capillaries of the face become
dilated and inflamed?
a. acne
b. milia
c. rosacea
d. whiteheads
17. A chronic inflammatory disorder of the sebaceous glands, caused by many different factors is called:
a. yeast
b. warts
c. acne
d. shingles
18. Acne can be caused by all of the following EXCEPT:

a. genetics
b. emotional stress
c. hormonal changes
d. eating too much chocolate
19. What is an open follicle plugged with a black surface plug that has been oxidized?
a. papule
b. milia
c. whitehead
d. blackhead
20. Which of the following is a fact of acne ?

a. Acne cannot be cleared up.
b. Genetics is a major cause of acne.
c. Acne is caused by dirt. Washing and scrubbing more will prevent acne.
d. Food such as chocolate, greasy food or coffee causes acne in most individuals.
21. This ingredient is used to dry and exfoliate.

a. azaleic acid
b. salicylic acid
c. topical antibiotics
d. benzoyl peroxide
22. Benign growths or moles have what shape?

a. regular shape and symmetrical
b. irregular shape and symmetrical
c. regular shape and asymmetrical
d. irregular shape and asymmetrical
23. What is intrinsic aging?

a. unnatural aging
b. natural aging process
c. aging affect from alcohol
d. aging affect from smoking
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Brain Conditioners
24. Smoking and alcohol are examples of what type of aging?

a. extrinsic aging
b. intrinsic aging
c. genetic aging
d. chemical aging
25. This term describes a disease that is active internally throughout the body system.
a. pruritus
b systemic disease
c. parasitic disease
d. seasonal disease
questions can be true/false, multiple choice or fill-in-the-blank. The only parameter is that your questions cannot
already be found on this test. Earn one point each for writing your way to success.
26 . Q: A:
27. Q: A:
28. Q: A:
BONUS QUESTION!
class and no one can answer the question within an agreed upon time (between you and the teacher), you earn a
BONUS OF FIVE ADDITIONAL POINTS!
29. Q:
ESSAY QUESTION: A maximum of five additional points is possible if you answer one of the following essay questions.
30a. List the six primary functions of the skin. Choosing three of them, explain and give the benefits of
those functions.
30b. Identify the factors that influence ingredient penetration into the skin. Describe each one and give a real
life example of one of these factors that has influenced you in your use of skin care products.
30c. Choose two of the nine skin conditions highlighted in this chapter. Describe the condition, give the
characteristics of the disorder and list the treatments used in each condition.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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1. page 259
13. page 275
2. page 259
14. page 276
3. page 259
15. page 278
4. page 259
16. page 281
5. page 261
17 page 282
6. page 265
18. page 282
7. page 266
19. page 283
8. page 267
20. page 282
9. page 268
21. page 286
10. page 273
22. page 287
11. page 273
23. page 292
12. page 274
24. page 292
25. page 292
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Skin Physiology

more enjoyable.
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9
CLIENT CARE
VALUE MAIN IDEA
Skin care professionals who develop strong From the moment your clients walk
interpersonal and consultation skills can through the door until the moment they
expect more repeat business and word-of- leave, they are forming opinions about
mouth referrals. you and your work. Skillfully completing
each phase in the service process will help
you build lasting relationships with your
clients. Designed specifically to guarantee
client comfort and security with skin care
services, this process will help you build
trust with your clients.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Before the n Greeting n Describe the personal impressions that

Service n Ask, Analyze and Assess play a key role during the Greeting phase
of service.
n Agreement
n Identify the purpose of obtaining a medical
history on the Client Consultation Form.
n Explain the Agreement phase of service.
During and n Delivery n Describe the elements of client education

After the n Completion used in the Delivery phase of service.
Service n Identify the importance of soliciting
feedback, retail sales, rebooking and
follow-up care used in the Completion
phase of service.
n Identify the various types of follow-up care.
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smartNOTES
Chapter 9 Client Care Before the Service Page 299
Goal of Client Care Guarantee client satisfaction with five Phases of Service
Keep lines of communication open during a professional service
Keep clients actively involved in their treatment before, during and after service
Help build rapport with clients and learn clients’ needs
The 5 Phases of
Client Service
Objectives:
1 n Exchange greetings
PHASE: Greeting
n Establish a rapport
n Build trust
Objective:
PHASE:
2 Ask, Analyze, Assess n Offer professional advice
Objectives:
PHASE: Agreement n Clarify client expectations and desired results

3 n Gain agreement between client and esthetician
Objectives:
PHASE: 4 Delivery n Shift emphasis from consultation to action

n Perform the service
Objectives:
5 n Conclude the service
PHASE: Completion
n Make recommendations for a homecare regimen
n Rebook next service
n Give client opportunity to express an opinion on
the service
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smartNOTES
Chapter 9 Client Care Before the Service Pages 300-302
M 1
n Greeting
Describe the personal impressions that play a key role
during the Greeting phase of service
Most clients prefer a polite and genuine greeting; the handshake

Phase 1 of Client Service is a gesture of respect
1 Respectful Greeting Techniques
n Offer a friendly smile
n Make direct eye contact
n Extend hand and shake hands firmly
n Express warm, inviting phrase of welcome
First contact for client is often via the telephone; can create impression just
as powerful and important as first in-person impression
Eye Contact Nonverbal gesture that conveys a message full of impact
Look directly into someone’s eyes when talking and listening; demonstrates
personal confidence; communicates you are interested in what client is
saying and confident you can help
Touch Most personal of the five senses; give your undivided attention
Touch lowers blood pressure, relieves stress, stimulates circulation and
promotes feelings of security and comfort
Therapeutic touch is an essential skill of the skin care service industry
Approach client; make eye contact; introduce yourself; firmly grasp the
client’s hand; can also gently place hand on shoulder, elbow or center of back
Tone of Voice What you say and how you say it can turn first-time client into long-term client
A firm, low-key tone of voice is preferred; a professional tone of voice
sounds confident, calm, respectful and nonjudgmental
Important to be honest, sincere and not exaggerate the benefits of services
Select words that clients can understand and that directly apply to their needs
Professional Along with physical arrangement, professional atmosphere of skin care
Atmosphere
center, spa or salon significantly influences a client’s impression of you
Representation of you and your commitment to excellence
Conveys impressions about dedication to cleanliness and professionalism
Prominently display licenses, certifications and accomplishments
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LEARNING C ON N E C T I ON It’s All in the Tone
The tone you

Find a partner and experiment with the importance of tone when speaking. Using the
use when sentence found in column ‘A’ below, ‘She passed the exam,’ repeat the sentence four
speaking often different times. Each time you repeat the sentence change the level, pitch or enunciation
communicates of a different word. Ask your partner to listen to determine if tone makes a difference.
more than the Have your partner do the same exercise just described using the sentence found in column
words you ‘B’ below. Or, you can have fun making up one of your own statements to share with other
partners. Shown below is a progression of both practice statements with the words
actually say.
appearing in bold type and capital letters indicating where to change the tone.
Experiment with
Partner A: Partner B:
tone of voice to
1. SHE passed the exam. 1. SHE wore the new dress
see if the
2. She PASSED the exam. 2. She WORE the new dress.
statement is true
3. She passed THE exam. 3. She wore THE new dress.
by trying this easy
4. She passed the EXAM. 4. She wore the NEW dress.
exercise with a
5. She wore the new DRESS.
partner.
smartNOTES
n Ask, Analyze Guided dialogue that invites clients to share expectations and reasons for
and Assess
requesting services; complete Client Consultation Form with client to store
Phase 2 of valuable information; offer brief overview of each section and explain
2 Client Service importance; once client has completed form, proceed with consultation
product use and client expectations –

5 Components of Client Consultation Forms
where client can sign release statement)
1. Personal Information (personal data and 4. Professional Skin Evaluation (esthetician notes
client’s background) professional recommendations)
2. Medical History (past treatments and 5. Treatment Record (documentation by
medical history) esthetician to list specific information such as
3. Personal Skin Evaluation (space for listing current treatments, products and noticeable
client’s major concerns, home care regimen, changes in skin for each visit)
Client Consultation Asks for basic data necessary for good record keeping
Form
Personal Information Thorough record keeping helps the esthetician

Component 1 Record client’s full name, address, phone numbers and referral info
Info is valuable for marketing purposes later
Optional information (for marketing purposes) may include listing
marital status, date of birth, occupation, etc.
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smartNOTES
M 2 Identify the purpose of obtaining a medical history on the Client Consultation Form
Medical History Pertains to past treatments client may have received, personal health and
Component 2 medical history; provides important facts necessary to determine products,
equipment to use and what services to offer; info identifies possible contraindications
(e.g., electric current of any type should never be used on pregnant client)
Questions Found Medical history includes questions about allergies, medications, surgeries, health con-
in the Medical History ditions such as epilepsy, heart conditions, high blood pressure, insomnia, metal plates or
pins, diabetes, claustrophobia, latex allergies, pregnancy and susceptibility to cold sores
Allergens Substance or ingredient likely to cause an allergic reaction
Common Allergens
Cosmetic Ingredient Allergens Colors and fragrances are extremely common allergens that cause allergic reactions
Hydroxy Acid Allergens Alpha and beta hydroxy acids used to promote cell turnover and exfoliation can
cause irritation, redness and increased sensitivity
Environmental Allergens Pollen, mold, animal dander and saliva, food and other environmental substances
can cause an increased sensitivity to products and stimulation of the skin
Sunscreen Allergens PABA (P-Aminobenzoic Acid) and derivatives are common; use products that are
physical sun blocks, such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, to cause less irritation
Medications Know the types of medication and supplements the client is taking
Oral Contraceptives Can clear acne, cause acne, create dryness and stimulate areas of increased pigmentation
Hormone Replacement Taken during menopause to relieve hormone depletion; can cause
Therapy (HRT)
hyperpigmentation, acne and increased dryness
Oral Antibiotics Can create dryness and increased sensitivity
Topical Antibiotics Used to treat acne, rosacea and other skin conditions; heighten sensitivity and dryness
Steroids Can thin the skin and increase sensitivity of skin
Accutane Controversial prescription drug for treating severe type four cystic acne; skin may
become dry with increased sensitivity; treatments should not include chemicals or
harsh exfoliants, waxing or excess steam
Retin-A Prescribed for acne, hyperpigmentation, premature aging and rosacea;
can cause dryness, increased sensitivity and irritation
Treatments should not include chemicals, harsh exfoliants or waxing
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smartNOTES
Health Conditions
Common Health Conditions Encountered during Ask, Analyze and Assess Phase 2
n Pregnancy – no electric current
n Heart conditions/ high blood pressure – no electric current
n Epilepsy – no electricity
n Pacemakers, joint replacements, prosthetics, metal plates and pins – no electrical equipment
n Diabetes – heal at a much slower rate; may have decreased sensitivity in hands and feet
n Thyroid conditions – overactive thyroid can result in excess sebum; underactive thyroid can result in lack of sebum
and dryness
n Telangiectasia – (small dilated capillaries) use gentle massage and soothing, mild products
n Herpes Simplex lesions (cold sores) – do not treat until lesions are completely healed and dry
n Varicose veins – avoid use of waxing and deep massage
n Large moles or warts – avoid surrounding area during waxing; note changes that may require a visit to physician
n Chemotherapy/ radiation treatments – heightens client’s sensitivity and may cause thinning of skin; avoid waxing
and exfoliation
n Low pain threshold – prepare client for experience during and after treatment
Personal Skin Allows clients to offer their own skin analysis and areas of concern
Evaluation
Knowing client’s habits will help dictate treatment options
Component 3
Learn about client’s home care regimen
Typical Lifestyle Smoking: robs nutrients and oxygen from the skin
Considerations That Clients who smoke may have sallow, gray or yellow skin, premature
May Affect the Skin: wrinkles, excess clogging and comedones
Diet: can influence hydration levels as well as hormonal imbalances;
lack of proper nutrients can cause dryness, pallor and coloration of skin
Exercise promotes a healthy body and skin by increasing circulation and
promoting detoxification
Client Release Statement Gives esthetician permission to treat clients based on information provided on
form during consultation; not a legal document
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smartNOTES
Professional Skin Determine difference between what the client is saying and what is really
Evaluation happening; esthetician makes notes of client’s major skin concerns,
Component 4
home care regimen, products used and changes client would like to see
Includes client input and esthetician’s professional observation
Skin Evaluation Process
Professional Skin Evaluation Process
1. Perform quick analysis prior to cleansing

2. Cleanse and analyze skin without makeup and dirt present
3. Cleanse again, remove all traces of cleanser and cover eyes with protective pads
4. Inform client that you will be placing bright lamp over face
5. Proceed with analyzing skin of face and neck
6. Using the middle finger of each hand, gently stretch small sections of skin (to see pore size, texture and
elasticity, sun damage, dryness, flakiness and unusual markings)
7. Make specific notes of your analysis upon completion of service for future reference and to track
changes and improvements
Common Differences Eye Cheek

in Areas of the Face n Size of pores is most visible
n Skin is thinner and more delicate
(especially closest to nose)
n Look for discoloration, puffiness n First place to display freckling and
and fine, delicate lines Telangiectasia (small dilated
capillaries)
Chin
Forehead
n Look for clogged pores and
n Look for discoloration, pore size and
breakouts
deeper wrinkles from aging, sun
exposure or repetitive facial
movements
Treatment Record
Component 5 Used as reference for
each appointment
Document date of visit, products used, notes and esthetician’s initials
Important to document in case client sees a different esthetician on next visit
Track changes from visit to visit to notice improvements in hydration, firmness,
pigmentation, sun damage and wrinkles Refer client to physician if visible
changes in markings on skin have occurred
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smartNOTES
Mn
3 Explain the Agreement phase of service
Agreement Avoid using industry lingo

Phase 3 of Client Service During the Agreement phase:
n Summarize and explain recommended treatments
n State the cost of today’s treatment, future treatments and home care products
3
n Gain feedback from client on your suggestions
n Ensure you and client are in agreement before beginning service
Providing cost information prior to performing services builds trust
Gain client agreement and keep communication open
Which component of the Client Consultation Form do you think will require the greatest amount of your time?
LEARNING C O N N E C T I ON Consultation Communication

For each of the four statements below, compare the statements in columns A and B. Decide which statement
you feel is the most appropriate communication to use during the consultation and place a check mark in the
box to the left of the statement.
A B
1. How did you feel about the results from Did you like what Jill did for you last time?
the enzyme treatment you had last time?
2. Are you interested in the recommendations What do you think you want to do?
I just presented to you?
3. I’m happy to tell you that not only are I’m not sure how much this particular
facials on special this week but you will facial is. I don’t think it’s very much. I
also receive this beautiful candle when know you get a candle with it.
you schedule an appointment.
4. What type of cleanser do you currently I’ve never seen skin like this before! You
use? You may want to consider a deep must not use a deep pore cleanser at all.
pore cleanser for your skin type.
Hopefully you will have indicated all four statements in

Column A to be the most appropriate communication to
use during the consultation. What can you do to improve
your communication skills? On the lines provided to the
right, list three strategies you might use to improve your
overall communication skills.
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smartNOTES
Chapter 9 Client Care During and After the Service Pages 312-317
n
M 4 Describe the elements of client education used
in the Delivery phase of service
Delivery Provide the treatment you recommended; continue to build trust and sense of
Phase 4 of Client Service confidence; goals include ensuring client comfort, education, explanation of
actions and reaching results that satisfy the clients needs; approach every client with
4 desire to make session as comfortable as possible; achieve results by
recommending a series of treatments
2 Key Guidelines of 1. Tell clients what to expect during a procedure and what products will be used
Client Education
Feature Benefit Product Statement
Key ingredient of Result ingredient Feature and benefit
product delivers stated to client
2. Recommend products for home care; completes the professional “selling”

process and ensures clients are fully informed and realistic about results
n Completion Final phase of service; solicit feedback, recommend follow-up home care
Phase 5 of Client Service regimen and retail products, rebooking, expressing appreciation, follow-up
5
Rebooking
Asking the client to book another appointment in advance (pre-booking)
Soliciting
Client should feel like a guest during visit; use intuition if client is noncommittal
Feedback
regarding satisfaction; keeping lines of communication open keeps customers
satisfied; encourage client to communicate freely, even if it is a complaint
M
Home Care Regimen
5
Identify the importance of soliciting feedback, retail sales, rebooking
and follow-up care used in the Completion phase of service.
Client’s skin care at home accounts for 80% of condition of the skin
and Retail Sales
Upon completion, review with client products you used during treatment
Recommend those products for home use (offer instructions on a card)
Properly teaching clients is first step in recommending home regimen; never
discredit products client is currently using; stress features and benefits of your products
States what a product will do and why
Product Statement Know a product’s features to sell its benefits
Retail = 15% to 30% of service dollars
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smartNOTES
Chapter 9 Client Care During and After the Service Pages 317-321
Rebooking the Completion is rebooking (scheduling) the next appointment; easier to utilize client
Next Appointment base you have than to search for new clients; strive to acquire 15-20% more new
clients each week; repeat clients ensure that books are filled week to week, month
to month; offer client a suggested date for future appointment (rebooking)
Referrals Word-of-mouth (news spread by verbal communication) is best form of

advertising; happy clients will pass along recommendations; incentives
or discounts are generally offered for referrals
M 6 Identify the various types of follow-up calls
Follow Up Two primary reasons to follow up with clients:

1. To check on condition of client’s skin following the treatment
2. To check on client’s satisfaction with any products purchased
Care Calls Follow up within 72 hours of the treatment
One of most personal ways to follow up; purpose is to find out:
n If client was satisfied with the experience
n How client’s skin has reacted
n How products are working
n If there are any questions
Thank-You Notes n If there is anything that could have made it a more enjoyable experience
Brief note asking same questions that would be asked during a care call recommended
to follow up with note 72 hours following visit; usually used for new clients
Last Two Phases of Service How Why What
Delivery Ensure client comfort; Satisfy client’s needs Appropriate equipment,
explain steps; products; service skills
commit to quality
Completion Gain feedback; discuss Ensure client satisfaction; Friendly handshake;
home care; suggest increase retail sales; note cards; business
products; rebook; encourage referrals cards, appointment
thank; follow up book; client record
Which phase of service do you feel the client

will mention when talking with others?
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LEARNING A World of Difference:
CON N E CT I ON
Feature or Benefit?
Listed below are phrases used when recommending products. List a ‘B’ on the line in front
of the statement if it identifies a benefit or place an ‘F’ if you think it identifies a feature.
Feature or Benefit
B Protects the skin from ultraviolet rays F Contains lanolin
B Dissolves makeup B Softens and nourishes skin
F Has sunflower oil added F Provides a fresh aroma
B Adjusts the skin’s pH level B Lifts impurities and dead cells
F Casts a soft glow F Extends the product life
L E AR N I N G CON N E CT I ON Finding the Right Words

The words that you choose to use when interacting with a client will have an influence on the degree of
personalization that your client will perceive. Review the pairs listed below. Within each pair of words or
phrases, one selection stands out as a better expression to use when personalizing your conversation with
a client. Circle the response you feel a client would perceive as both more personal and more professional.
Finding the Right Words

1. “Yah, that’s why I like this product so well. The smell is so fresh.”
2. “Yes, I really prefer this product over many others due to the fresh, clean aroma.”
1. “I think we should do an enzyme service to remove some of that dead skin buildup.”
2. “Susan, I would recommend an enzyme peel to remove the top layer of dead skin buildup.”
1. “Welcome. How may I help you today?” (to a client just entering the skin care center)
2. “Hello, can I help you?” (to a client just entering the skin care center)
1. “Jeff, does your skin break out often?”

2. “Jeff, do you experience acne or blemishes on a regular basis?”
1. “Linda, are you allergic to anything?”

2. “Linda, do you have allergies to any cosmetics, foods or drugs?”
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Five Phases of Client Service
1. GREETING
Welcome client Jump Start Box

Introduce yourself Place the terms or phrases found below in
their respective phases above. All terms or
Use firm handshake phrases are used only once.
Make direct eye contact
Discuss skin care objectives
2. ASK, ANALYZE, ASSESS Review Client Consultation Form
Discuss home skin care regimen

Complete Client Consultation Form
Perform thorough consultation Perform thorough consultation
Review Client Consultation Form Discuss skin evaluation results
Discuss skin care objectives Share skin condition analysis
Make direct eye contact

3. AGREEMENT
Ensure client’s comfort during service
Discuss skin evaluation results
Ask how client enjoyed treatment
Share skin condition analysis
Explain steps and actions during service
Recommend treatment
Follow up
Explain methods, equipment and products
Commit to highest quality of service
4. DELIVERY Explain methods, equipment and products
Ensure client’s comfort during service Complete Client Consultation Form
Explain steps and actions during service Gain feedback

Commit to highest quality of service
Welcome client
Introduce yourself
5. COMPLETION
Use firm handshake
Gain feedback
Recommend treatment
Ask how client enjoyed treatment
Discuss home skin care regimen
Follow up
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MATCHING
Column A Column B
A. Telangiectasia E A statement that helps the skin care center avoid

retribution from any damages or accidents
B. Client education H The image that is projected by the skin care center,
spa, salon or office
C. Low pain threshold M Increased sales leads to this
D. Smoking A Broken capillaries indicating damage to the skin and

possible heightened sensitivity
E. Client release form L Building a strong client base where clients return for
treatments is referred to as this
F. Exercise B This is the first step in helping your clients achieve

the results that they desire
G. “We” language O Referred to as a “care call” where a phone call or a

thank-you note is sent to a client
H. Professional environment D Robs nutrients and oxygen from the skin
I. Complimentary consultation C Although this will not affect the outcome of a

treatment, it will affect client comfort level
J. Allergens N The way your clients take care of their skin at home
K. Client consultation form G A choice of words used to help establish commitment

by both the client and the esthetician
L. Repeat business I An easy way to build new business by offering a brief

interview on a potential client’s skin care needs
M. Increased revenue J Substances or ingredients likely to cause allergic

reactions to particular products
N. Home maintenance F Promotes not only a healthy body but healthy skin by
increased circulation
O. Follow up K An information card that includes three sections and

provides information about the client and his or her skin
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WORD
Locate and highlight the words from
Chapter 9. The words can be found in the
FIND Jump Start Box at the bottom of this page.
C F B L I E R P I Y Q S E E S F L P T V R Z F J T W E I
L A I E T P O I E R B M K X Y I K T D A E J T W F I W E
I V E R H G N J E W Z A I E R E G N F C C D N M O P L E
Y Q A D S J L A P W O E I R E R U E Y D O S X F J K R C
N L J D A T M N L R K J F C E T U M X S R E O P M C H L
E F D E F J I C N X L G S I R T J N Z A D E R H A G E I
E A A V A D Y M A C E M P S E L A O T R K D S Z B T O E
D W P E V J M A P T U A S E V N Z R W G E G L P E P F N
A R E Y W L D F R R W V T A Z X S I E R E M N I G J S T
C A D E T P O I E R E M K P Y I K V D A P J D I F I W S
A A E D H M Z W Y I A S P S D L A N T R I D S Z V H T A
E L T O U C H A E T R P S D T U N E E A N C D J Y O P T
I W P N X E A Z F T W K U I W I U E W C G L K J M D S I
O R E L T Y P C V A C J K V O W S A Q X V I K G E W R S
R E F E R R A L S U N A S D E N P E E S Y E K L D G D F
E R T N V X S D F J Q W T R X Z W V M M K N E T I O P A
A E P J A Y R E D V G H N N G D A P O O T T Q L C G D C
V C B G L I F E S T Y L E Q O H T R W K Y E P L A I H T
X N M U R W A L Z C H F R E W C F B L I P D Y J T S E I
P L J D A C M N B R K J F D E T E N X N D U O P I C H O
E B P D H M Z Q Y E B O L D F Q Y Y V G Y C X O O F D N
N E P E Y J M A L L E R G E N S Z U E Q D A L P N Q F S
K A D E V P M I M R B M K Q Y I K J D O F T T W S I W X
V E W J S E L A S L G H N D G D E P O U T I B L J S E A
H O M E M A I N T E N A N C E T J A Z E H O R Z A G Q E
P L K W R C M Y R D K P E V Y J A W V U N N H L K O Q X
H E A L T H C O N D I T I O N S Y K O P H M H N T B R V
A E R S F L O J N O I T A T L U S N O C T N E I L C X B
First Impression Medications Client Satisfaction Record Keeping

Touch Lifestyle Referrals Home Maintenance
1. Jump Start
Environment Diet Sales Eye Contact
Box Allergens Smoking Client Education
Health Conditions Exercise Client Consultation
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1. Home Maintenance Dialogue

You have learned that home
maintenance is very important to
client success. Home maintenance
accounts for 80 percent of the
condition of the client’s skin. In
box 1, write a brief dialogue that
you can use with your clients to
emphasize this point.
2. Client Home Maintenance

Bar soap for cleansing
It is important to never discredit
Alcohol for toning
products that a client is currently
Available hand & body lotion for moisturizing
using. Write a brief dialogue that
Liquid foundation
you can use with a customer that
Face powder
informs you of the products he/she
Pencil eyeliner
uses at home, which are listed to the
Eye shadow
left. Practice your professional skills
Mascara
as you present your response.
Lipstick
Share your dialogue with a partner.
3. Similar Ingredients
The ingredients in a skin care
product are the key indicators of
benefits that the product will
provide. Knowledge of the primary
ingredients in a product will inform
you of its benefits. Look at some of
the skin care products you currently
use and list on the lines to the left
ingredients that are consistently
found on the labels.
Share your research with a partner.
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THE CHALLENGE 1. TRUE FALSE You can win your clients’ respect by greeting them professionally
and respectfully.
these questions. Then use 2. TRUE FALSE Touch is the least personal of the five senses.
the Memory Box that Touch is the most personal of the five senses.
Look up each answer on 3. Colors and fragrances are common ingredients that can cause an allergic reaction.
4. What effect will the use of topical steroid medications have on the skin?
the Salon Fundamentals™ a. decreased dryness
Esthetics textbook. Check b. increased sensitivity
“got it” for all correct c. decreased sensitivity
answers and “not yet” for d. increased pigmentation
all incorrect responses. 5. Which of the following descriptions identifies Herpes Simplex?
Using the “Know Chart,” a. a lack of sebum and dryness
record all of your correct b. increased sensitivity and irritation
responses in the “I c. non contagious infection with dry scales
Know” column. After d. contagious viral infection that causes blister-like outbreaks
correcting incorrect 6. During which phase of service is the cost of the treatment being performed usually
answers, record all of your discussed?
corrected responses in the a. Delivery
b. Greeting
c. Agreement
d. Ask, Analyze, Assess
continuing in this Guide. 7. The key ingredient a product contains that makes it effective is called the:
a. core
b. factor
c. benefit
whether questions 1 and
d. feature
circling TRUE or FALSE. 8. During what phase would you explain the steps and actions that you are taking
during the service?
a. Delivery
point for each false b. Agreement
statement you c. Completion
appropriately correct. d. Ask, Analyze, Assess
Question 3 requires you
9. Asking the client to book another appointment in advance is referred to as:
to write in an answer a. residual
in the blank provided. b. redirecting
Answers to the questions c. completing
found in 4 through 10 d. rebooking
may be selected by 10. During which of the service phases would you suggest the purchase of product?
circling a, b, c or d below a. Deliver
each statement to indicate b. Agreement
your choice. c. Completion
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o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
Show you know the five phases of service by relating each phase to a popular song, book, movie or current
advertisement or news headline. Allow your creativity to flow as you relate what you know about each phase.
Phase Popular Song, Book Title, Movie or

of Service Current Advertisement or News Headline
Greeting The song – “Zip-A-Dee-Doo-Dah”
Ask, Analyze, Assess The cell phone ad campaign – “Can You Hear Me Now?”
Agreement The book – “I’m Okay, You’re Okay”
Delivery Nike’s ad campaign – ‘‘Just Do It”
Completion The song – “Happy Trails to You”
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knowledge grid
of Chapter 9, Client Care. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence
KNOW List 4 things you can do to make a good impression when meeting a new client.
1. Touch—introductory handshake
2. Use “we” language
3. Use eye contact
4. Use a tone of voice that represents your level of knowledge, confidence and professionalism
COMPREHEND Describe the elements of client education in the Delivery phase of service.
The elements of education in the Delivery phase include recommending a series of

treatments, telling clients what to expect and what products will be used during the
treatment, identifying the features and benefits, and recommending the products that
were used throughout the treatment.
APPLY Give examples of products that might cause allergic reactions for your clients.
Products that might cause allergic reactions include cosmetic ingredients, hydroxyl acids
and sunscreens.
ANALYZE Specify the difference between verbal and nonverbal communication and offer
examples of each.
Verbal communication includes words that are exchanged between two or more parties.
Examples of verbal communication can be found in lectures, conversations, chats, and so
forth. Nonverbal communication does not require verbal language and examples would
include eye contact, body language and/or a handshake.
SYNTHESIZE Suggest ways to gain feedback from clients on customer satisfaction.
Ask the client if he/she is satisfied or ask the client to complete an evaluation form that asks
questions about the experience he/she had at the skin care center.
EVALUATE Justify the need for a client to complete the Client Consultation Form.
Completion of the form is necessary so the skin care specialist can successfully meet the
needs of the client.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. Which of the following statements reflects the purpose of the Greeting phase?
a. clarify objectives
b. gain agreement
c. recommend home care
d. establish rapport and build trust
2. Which element listed below is usually the first contact a client has with the skin care center?
a. radio ad
b. brochure
c. telephone
d. newspaper
3. During an introductory handshake, you should:

a. ask for referrals right away
b. announce available services
c. always inform the client of the treatment cost
d. shake hands firmly and make direct eye contact
4. Looking around the room during a client consultation sends a clear signal that you are:
a. distracted
b. interested
c. giving your undivided attention
d. intrigued by the color of his/her eyes
5. A professional tone of voice is confident, firm, respectful and:

a. loud
b. very soft
c. high-pitched
d. non-judgmental
6. A substance or ingredient likely to cause an allergic reaction is referred to as a(n):

a. HRT
b. PABA
c. allergen
d. accutane
7. All of the following are examples of possible contraindications EXCEPT:

a. exercise
b. heart condition
c. Herpes Simplex
d. high blood pressure
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Brain Conditioners
8. Which of the items listed below may protect the skin care center from claims related to
damage that may occur to the client’s skin as a result of services provided?
a. skin evaluation
b. client medical history
c. client treatment record
d. client release statement
9. Which of the following items describes a typical lifestyle consideration?

a. epilepsy
b. smoking
c. telangiectasia
10. A health condition that will not affect the outcome of the treatment but will affect the comfort
level of the patient during treatment is:
a. epilepsy
b. accutane
c. antibiotics
d. low pain threshold
11. What lifestyle habit can influence hydration levels as well as hormonal imbalances?
a. dieting
b. smoking
c. drinking
d. exercising
12. Which lifestyle habit can rob nutrients and oxygen from the skin?
a. dieting
b. drinking
c. smoking
d. exercise
13. Which of the following occurs during the Ask, Analyze and Assess phase?
a. observe the skin
b. schedule next appointment
c. discuss home care regimen
d. share results of client skin evaluation
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Brain Conditioners
14. How often should a professional skin analysis be performed?

a. annually
b. only on the first visit
c. every six months at a minimum
d. before and after each cleansing step
15. Which of the following is NOT an indicator of an effective skin care treatment?
a. decreased wrinkles
b. improved hydration
c. increased pore size
d. improved pigmentation
16. Which of the following elements is NOT the purpose of the Agreement phase?
a. mail thank-you notes
b. state the cost of the service
c. summarize recommended treatments
d. ensure you and the client have the same understanding
17. Which phase of client care satisfies client needs?

a. Greeting Phase
b. Delivery Phase
c. Agreement Phase
d. Completion Phase
18. What percent of new clients should you strive to acquire each week?
a. 15 to 20%
b. 25 to 30%
c. 35 to 40%
d. 45 to 50%
19. What is the best form of advertising in any customer service business?
a. business cards
b. word-of-mouth
c. radio advertisements
d. newspaper advertisements
20. What is the recommended timeline for follow-up calls and notes?
a. within one week
b. within 8 hours
c. within 72 hours
d. prior to end of business the day after the service
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Brain Conditioners
21 . Q: A:
22. Q: A:
23. Q: A:
BONUS QUESTION!
24. Q:
ESSAY QUESTION:
25a. List three key questions that are asked during a consultation and explain why these questions are
important to the consultation.
Three key questions that are asked during a consultation, along with the reason why they are important,
would include:
1. What is the client’s name, address, phone number, birth date, occupation and how the client was
referred to you? This is important for record keeping purposes and marketing in the future.
2. What is the client’s medical history? This information provides important facts about the client that
will be necessary when determining what services can be offered, as well as possible allergies.
3. What are the major concerns the client has regarding his/her skin? This information helps identify the
expectations of the client, which allows the esthetician a clear guide to client satisfaction.
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Brain Conditioners
25b. Describe at least two follow-up techniques and explain why they are important.
One follow-up technique is referred to as a follow-up phone call or care call. This technique is
important because it allows the esthetician to find out if the client was satisfied with
the experience; how the skin has reacted; how the products are working; if there are any questions
or if there is anything that could have made the experience more enjoyable.
A second follow-up technique is a thank-you note. This technique works well if you were not able to
reach the client by phone and/or allows the client to know that you want to be helpful if he/she
has concerns or questions.
25c. In your opinion, how can referrals and effective recommendations that turn into sales contribute to the
growth of a business?
Referrals are more likely to become regular clients, which translates to steady revenue. In addition,
clients who receive effective recommendations, make purchases and achieve results
will put their trust and belief in the esthetician and become regular clients. The confidence
clients have in the esthetician will also allow them to be more likely to try additional
services or make additional purchases, which contributes to the growth of a business.
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1. page 299 11. page 307
2. page 300 12. page 307
3. page 300 13. page 308
4. page 301 14. page 308
5. page 301 15 page 309
6. page 305 16. page 310
7. page 306 17. page 313
8. page 307 18. page 317
9. page 307 19. page 317
10. page 307 20. page 319
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Client Care
Experts agree that it is important
to summarize your feelings and
reactions about what you are
learning. Note especially things
that surprised you, things you
received from friends that helped
make learning this chapter easier
and more enjoyable.
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10
FACIALS
VALUE MAIN IDEA
The most requested esthetics service is the This chapter focuses on the basic facial
facial. Estheticians who master basic facial procedure. Considered by many as the core
techniques and learn to help their clients services of the skin care industry, facials,
maintain a sound home care regimen can massage therapy and recommendations
expect more referrals and success. for home care regimens are among the
most-requested services provided by skin
care centers. They are also the services
most closely linked to client satisfaction,
repeat business and financial success. To
perform these services at a professional
level, estheticians are expected to master
basic facial procedures, general massage
techniques and understand the functions
of each product. The ability to give clients
a refreshing and pleasant facial is the most
important entry-level skill for estheticians.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Facial Care n Skin Care n Describe the four basic steps of a regular
n Massage daily skin care regimen to maintain
n Skin Analysis healthy skin.
n Skin Care Essentials
n Demonstrate the five basic movements of
massage and explain when it is inadvisable
n Client Consultation to perform massage manipulations.
n Explain the process of a skin analysis and

identify the basic skin types and the main
skin conditions.
n Identify and describe the function for skin

care essentials, infection control and safety
and the client consultation.
Facial Services n Basic Facial n Demonstrate procedures for the basic
n Facials with Machines facial and facials with machines.
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smartNOTES
Chapter 10 Facials Facial Care Pages 325-327
M 1
n
Describe the four basic steps of a regular daily skin care regimen to maintain
healthy skin.
Skin Care Good home care regimen

Proper Skin Care Well-balanced diet
Adequate water intake
Limited sun exposure
Exercise
Rest
Use of professional skin care treatments and products
Daily Care Follow this regimen twice daily: (morning and evening)
4 Steps in Keeping 1. Cleanse thoroughly with products that don’t strip skin of moisture
Skin in Good Condition 2. Tone the skin with toner or astringent
3. Moisturize the skin
4. Protect from damaging effects of sun exposure
1. Cleansing First step in regimen; designed to remove dirt and oil, makeup and environmental
pollutants from surface of the skin; ordinary soaps are not recommended because
their alkalinity can strip skin of its protective acid mantle and natural moisturizers
2. Toning Astringents, toners, refreshers (skin refiners) cleanse skin and balance pH;
remain on skin; replenish and balance moisture and oil
3. Moisturizing Keeps skin soft, smooth and hydrated
SPF Sun Protection Factor; contain vitamins, nutrients or other ingredients that
promote cell renewal; skin cells renew 30% faster during sleep than when awake
Oily Skin Oily skin needs moisturizing; excess sebum does not replace moisture loss
4. Protecting Use sunscreen to protect from harmful UVA and UVB rays from sun
90% of wrinkles caused by excess sun exposure 10% of wrinkles caused by natural aging process
Sunscreen SPF 15 Can be out in sun 15% longer SPF 30 Recommended for sports or
than without protection swimming when product can be washed
away (frequent application is recommended)
UVA /UVB Select sunscreen that protects from UVA and UVB rays
UVA and UVB absorbers are ingredients that absorb rays and deflect them
throughout the layers of the skin; e.g., titanium dioxide, zinc oxide
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smartNOTES
Vitamin C n Deficiency in Vitamin C can contribute to cellular breakdown that speeds up wrinkling and aging
n Ingestion of large amounts of coffee or tea or smoking cigarettes
depletes Vitamin C affecting appearance and internal functioning of skin
Mechanical Exfoliant Chemical Exfoliant

n Contains granular substance with n Contains natural substance (enzyme or alpha hydroxy
Additional slightly grainy or rough texture acid)
Care
n Caused by abrasion of rough n Works in conjunction with other ingredients to cause
texture against face to chemical reaction that removes dead skin cells
remove dead cells n Smoother feel or texture compared to mechanical exfoliant
Chemical and mechanical exfoliants are effective for deep-pore cleansing
Clay/Mud Masks n Dry and harden to a rubber-like consistency

n Generally rich in minerals, clays and mud n Pulled from the face in one piece
n Absorb excess oil, tighten and refine
n Contain benefits derived from ingredients
the pores
n Aids in the prevention of clogging n Seal the skin, locking in moisture and
Masks
n Suited for oily and acne skin types creating a firm, taut feeling after removal
n Not recommended for dry skin
n Additional service can command a higher
Crème Masks
price
n Creamy-textured masks
Paraffin Masks
n Rich in moisturizers, humectants and other
n Type of wax frequently used for hand and
nutrient-rich ingredients (vitamins)
facial treatments
Gel Masks
n Can be applied over a thin piece of gauze;
n Designed for a variety of purposes
instantly hardens as it dries
depending upon their ingredients
n Does not have medicinal benefits; increases
n Contain botanicals and ingredients
circulation; promotes penetration of
designed to calm and soothe sensitive skin
nutrients or ingredients
Modeling Masks
n Variety of beneficial ingredients n Highly recommended for dry, mature skin
n Mixed with water and applied in thick types
consistency to the face

Cleansing, toning, moisturizing and protecting are the four steps Brushing my teeth, applying deodorant, shampooing
that create the daily regimen for skin care. What other daily my hair, taking a shower, applying foot powder, etc.
health or wellness regimens that you use can you name?
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LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Create a Rhyme
In the future you may have clients as young as 10
Daily Skin Care Rhyme
years old. Teaching these youngsters the basics of
First and last, morning and night,
daily skin care is very important. Creating a rhyme
Cleanse your skin to start off right.
designed to help them remember the importance
Then apply toner to restore the natural pH.
of daily skin care might be one way you would
Follow with a moisturizer to refresh and balance.
choose to introduce the topic. In the space to the
And last, add protection from the sun, don’t leave it to chance.
right, create a rhyme to introduce daily skin care.
smartNOTES
n Massage Systematic method of manipulating the body by rubbing, pinching, tapping,

kneading or stroking with hands, fingers or an instrument
Benefits of Massage n Increased circulation of blood supply
n Tighter and firmer muscles
n Stimulation of the glandular activities of the skin
n Relief from pain
n Softens and improves the texture and complexion of the skin
n Relief of emotional stress and body tension
Massage Requirements Most regions allow estheticians to massage the head, face, neck,
shoulders, upper back, hands, arms and feet
Massage Therapist Trained to use touch to provide relaxation, stress reduction, health
promotion, pain management and injury recovery
M 2 Demonstrate the five basic movements of massage and explain when it

is inadvisable to perform massage maniplations
5 Basic Massage Effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, friction, vibration

Movements
Effleurage n Light, relaxing, smooth, gentle stroking or circular movement

Purpose n Soothe muscles and relax sensory nerve endings at surface of skin
Method n Used on face, neck and arms; carried out with pads of the fingertips or
palms of hands; often begins and ends massage

Petrissage n Light or heavy kneading, pinching and rolling of the muscles
Purpose n Deeply stimulates muscles (arms, shoulders and upper back), nerves
and skin glands, causing increased circulation of blood and lymph

Method n Kneading muscles between thumb and fingers or by pressing the palm of hand firmly
over muscles; fulling is used during hand and arm massage (like kneading dough)
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smartNOTES
Tapotement n Light tapping or slapping movement applied with the fingertips

(Percussion)
Purpose n Increase blood circulation, stimulate nerves and promote muscle contraction
Method n Movement usually carried out with fingers tapping loosely as if playing the
piano; hacking is one form of chopping (with the edge of the hands); used on
arms, back and shoulders
n Never used on sensitive skin or certain conditions (acne or rosacea)
Friction n Circular or wringing movement with no gliding
Purpose n Stimulate and warm muscles
Method n Most often used on scalp, hands, or with facial massage (with less pressure);
carried out with the fingertips or palms of the hands
Vibration n Shaking movement in the arms of the esthetician while fingertips or palms
are touching the client
Purpose n Stimulate skin; loosen up and help relax large muscles
Method n Massage for a few seconds in one location vibrating on arms, legs and back
Contraindications redness swelling pus disease bruises broken and/or scraped skin
for Massage high blood pressure heart condition previous stroke
Jacquet Movements n Created by Dr. Jacquet, French dermatologist; for oily and acneic skin conditions
n Uses gentle kneading and pinching movements designed to force excess
sebum from the pores
n Small amount of skin is grasped between thumb and forefinger
n Skin is gently twisted in a motion similar to snapping your fingers,
forcing the oil from the base of the follicle to the surface
n Ideal for the base of the chin, jawline and forehead
n Don’t grasp or pinch skin too tightly
n Purpose is to clear the pores, not stimulate the glands
Important Avoid removing hands from face once massage has begun; use light, feather-like
Massage Points movement to lift hands from face and gently replace; direct movement toward the origin
of the muscle to avoid damage to tissue; use an even tempo or rhythm to relax client
Can you identify an adjective that could describe the

Petrissage stimulated Friction revitalized
feeling the client would have following each of the
different massage movements? For example, a client Tapotement invigorated Vibration relaxed
would feel pacified following an effleurage session.
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L E AR N I N G CON N E CT I ON Massage Songs
Music is similar to massage in the Massage Movement Associated Song

sense that both involve a rhythm. 1. Effleurage “Lullaby and Goodnight” by J. Brahms
Review the five massage movements
and identify a popular, recognizable 2. Petrissage “People Who Need People” by Barbara Streisand
song that associates with the rhythm 3. Tapotement “Little Drummer Boy” (Christmas song)
of the massage movement. If the 4. Friction “Flight of the Bumble Bee” by Nikolay Rimski-Korsakov
massage movement is light and airy,
then a light and airy song would be 5. Vibration “Good Vibrations” by the Beach Boys
associated. Let your creativity feel
the rhythm!
smartNOTES
Chapter 10 Facials Facial Care Page 333
n Skin Analysis
Skin Types
Normal Skin
M 3 Explain the process of a skin analysis and identify the basic
skin types and the main skin conditions
Sufficient moisture and sebum production

Few breakouts and clogged areas
Small pores, may be medium in size, in T-zone
Dry Skin Lacks adequate sebum production
Heightened sensitivity
Prone to fine lines and wrinkles
Small pores
Thin and delicate
Oily Skin Displays excess sebum production
Appears thick and shiny
Larger pore size
Prone to breakouts and clogged areas
Less likely to display fine lines and wrinkles
Combination Skin Displays areas that are both dry and oily
Most common skin type
May have larger pores in T-zone
Mature/Aging Skin Displays loose, thin, crepe-like skin
Apparent fine lines and wrinkles
Lacks elasticity and firmness
Natural aging process results in increased dryness
Shows premature aging process, with exposure to sun and environment
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Skin Conditions/
Disorders
Dehydration Shows a lack of moisture/water in the skin

Oily skin can even show signs of dehydration
Caused by improper product use and environmental influences
Couperose Displays fine dilated capillaries (telangiectasia)

Most frequently found on the cheeks and corner of nose
Often caused by damage to the skin or harsh products
Sensitive to extreme temperatures and harsh products and chemicals
Rosacea Vascular disorder

Characterized by flushed redness
Dilated capillaries and small red bumps
Occurs between the ages of 30 to 40
Aggravating factors - alcohol, stress, spicy foods, and extreme temps
Acne Caused by overactivity of sebaceous glands

Presence of blackheads, whiteheads, papules and pustules
Occurs in adolescence
Outward manifestation of internal changes within the body
Performing Skin
Analysis Check for:
Chin Excess oil and clogged pores
Eyes Puffiness and dark shadows to determine poor circulation
Fine lines and wrinkles at corners and beneath eyes (sign of aging)
Clogging and milia
Cheeks Dehydration and elasticity by gently pushing upward on skin
Pore size, breakouts, clogging on inner cheek to determine skin type
Dilated capillaries and redness to determine skin condition
Sun spots, freckles and uneven skin tone
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Performing Skin
Analysis
Check for:
Forehead Pore size and breakouts to determine skin type

Wrinkles, freckles and sun spots to determine aging and sun damage
Nose Excess oil and clogging on the inner sides and tip of nose
Dilated capillaries in inner corners
Mouth Hyperpigmentation around mouth, primarily on upper lip

Wrinkles and signs of aging at corners of mouth
Signs of premature aging and wrinkles around mouth due to smoking
Entire Face Document age spots, sun spots, freckles and moles for size, color,
symmetry and evenness of their borders for any future changes
What is your skin type and condition? With a partner perform a skin analysis of each other and
document the results.
LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Reading the Signs
The skin analysis is the process of Sign Condition

investigating and looking for signs
to indicate particular conditions. 1. Gathering of clouds Indicates a weather condition
In what other areas of your life 2. Nonverbal language Indicates interest or no interest
do you look at signs to indicate
conditions? Can you name at least 3. Road signs Indicate road conditions, such as slippery, curvy, etc.
three instances when signs give you
important clues about what to do?
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Chapter 10 Facials Facial Care Page 335
n
M 4
Skin Care Essentials

Identify and describe the function for skin care essentials,
infection control and safety and the client consultation
Skin Care Products Functions:

Antiseptic Assists in preventing the growth of bacteria on the skin
Cleansing Crème Removes impurities from the skin
Astringent Cleanses skin and returns oily skin to a normal pH
Toner Assists in cleansing skin and returns normal to dry skin to a normal pH
Chemical Exfoliant Removes dead skin cells by using enzymes or alpha hydroxy acids
Manual Exfoliant Removes dead skin cells by using a granular product manipulated on the
skin; also called facial scrub
Massage Crème/Oil Reduces friction and provides “slip” to the skin
Clay/mud Mask Absorbs excess sebum ; prevents clogging; tightens and refines pores
Crème Mask Hydrates and moisturizes
Gel Mask Calms and soothes skin
Modeling Mask Delivers beneficial ingredients
Paraffin Mask Increases circulation ; promotes product penetration
Moisturizer Hydrates and protects the skin
Eye Product Protects and treats delicate eye area
Sunscreen Protects skin from UVA and UVB rays
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Skin Care
Implements/Supplies Use:
Spatula Removes product from containers
Gloves Protect hands
Fan Brush Applies product on face or neck
Distilled Water Used in steamer machine
Comedone Extractor Metal implement used to ease the removal of comedones
Clean Sheets/Blankets Provide warmth and comfort to client
Client Robe/Gown Allows client to remove clothing (to prevent staining) and stay covered
Towel Cushions client’s head; protects hair; removes product; used wet or warm
Cotton Pads Remove product from face and neck
Disposable Facial Sponge Removes product from face and neck; used in place of cotton pads
Facial Tissue Removes lipstick or debris from extractions; blots face after toning
Head Band/Covering Protects hair from products and keeps hair out of the client’s face
Rubber Mixing Bowls Hold mixtures for any type of peel or mask
Skin Care Equipment
Multifunction Machine Magnifying Lamp Facial Steamer
Description Provides 4 or more Offers magnification Provides warm, and

options; steamer, and glare-free humid mist
vacuum, toner spray, light
rotating brush
Benefit Opens follicles, cleanses or Opens follicles;

refines surface of skin; saves Allows analysis of skin; increases circulation
time; easy to use allows thorough exam
Infrared Lamp Wood’s Lamp Vacuum
Description Provides soothing heat Allows analysis of skin Creates mild suction
surface
Benefit Relaxes client; softens Aids in determining Increases blood

the skin; increases treatment; colors circulation; aids deep
blood flow indicate conditions pore cleansing
using ultra-violet light
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smartNOTES
Skin Care Equipment
High Frequency Service Galvanic Current Service Rotating Brush
Description Creates High Creates low level Allows superficial

Frequency Current direct current exfoliation
Benefit Heat producing Forces a water-soluble Deep cleansing

and germicidal product deep into epidermis
n Infection Control 1. Disinfect the facial chair and table before and after every service with
and Safety
an approved broad-spectrum disinfectant
2. Wash and sanitize your hands before and after every client
3. Keep lids tightly closed on product jars to avoid spillage and contamination
4. Remove all product from jars with a disinfected spatula
5. Keep labels on all containers and store products in a cool place to lengthen shelf-life
6. Keep tools dry to avoid a short circuit when using electrical equipment
7. Wear gloves during treatments, if required
8. Discard any implements that cannot be disinfected
9. Use eye pads to protect and soothe the eyes
10. Keep a client consultation form for all clients (note allergic reactions)
11. Place soiled linens in a covered hamper
12. Always use clean linens on each new client
13. Disinfect sink and counter area with alcohol or required disinfectant
14. Discard used protective hair covering
Greeting – firm handshake, eye contact, professional demeanor and a pleasant voice
nClient
Consultation Ask, Analyze and Assess – ask questions to determine needs; analyze
Important Steps in
client’s face; assess facts
Client Consultation
Agreement – gain feedback and approval for treatment, products used and price of service
Delivery – ensure client comfort during service; inform client regarding service/product
benefit; teach client how to maintain skin; suggest home care regimen; stay focused
Completion – request feedback; rebook; express appreciation; invite client to purchase
retail; inform client that products are in stock at all times; document; ask for referrals
About which piece of electrical equipment do you feel clients will have the most questions? Why?
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L E AR N I N G C ON N E C T I ON Function Junction
Column 1 identifies a piece of electrical equipment. Column 2 identifies the function of a piece
of equipment. Match the correct function with the appropriate piece of equipment by placing
the matching letter from Column 1 on the line in front of Column 2.
Column 1 Equipment Column 2 Function

A. Multifunction Machine C Uses warm, humid mist to open follicles
B. Wood’s Lamp D Provides a soothing heat that penetrates into the tissues of the body
C. Facial Steamer B Allows analysis of skin surface and deeper layers to aid in determining treatment
D. Infrared Lamp A Offers four or more treatment options
smartNOTES
Chapter 10 Facials Facial Services Pages 341-366
M 5 Demonstrate procedures for the basic facial and basic facial with machines
Listed below are facial services offered in the chapter. Rubrics for these services
can be found on the pages following the matching exercise in this study guide.
1. Basic Facial Procedure 4. Facial with Galvanic/Iontophoresis
2. Facial with Multifunction Machine 5. Facial with Indirect High Frequency
3. Facial with Galvanic/Desincrustation 6. Facial with Direct High Frequency
Dry/Dehydrated Skin
Mature Skin
n Apply a water-based treatment
n Treat same as dry skin; both
n Place client under infrared lamp for 3 minutes
have similar conditions
n Leave water-based crème on under treatment mask
Combination Skin
Oily Skin
n Use a moisturizer in dry areas
n Use products with drying
n Apply cotton compresses saturated in desincrustation solution to
ingredients
oily areas with visible blackheads
n Use products that contain
antibacterial ingredients
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Chapter 10 Facials Facial Services Pages 341-366
Acneic Skin
n Avoid massage other than Jacquet movements

n Use cotton pads when removing product
n Perform extractions to improve skin
n Suggest good home care regimen
n Use professionally recommended exfoliants and masks
Desincrustation Solution Towel Steaming
n Highly alkaline solution n Submerge a 16” x 24” terry
n Liquifies sebum (saponification) towel in very warm water
n Helps aid extraction process n Wring out excess water; fold in half
n Applied with cotton pad n Place towel across chin length wise
n Steam or infrared lamp about 7 minutes n Pull corners upward to forehead
Make solution n Leave nostrils uncovered
1 tsp. sodium bicarbonate + 1 cup distilled water n Stay on face 2 minutes while
preparing a second towel
n Continue process 7 - 10 minutes
Men’s Skin Care
Goal Many men are interested in properly caring for their skin
Same for men as women - achieve healthy, youthful skin
Tips for Men’s Skin Care During facial treatment, pay special attention to the beard area; use sponges rather
than cotton over beard area; soothing and hydrating masks are highly recommended
for men; use gel for bearded men; clay or thick crème masks are difficult to remove
Which of the procedures do you think will take the most time when offered to a client
for the first time? Why?
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MATCHING
Column A Column B
A. Vibration E A light, relaxing, smoothing, gentle stroking or circular

movement
B. Dehydration H A light tapping or slapping movement applied with the

fingertips or partly flexed fingers
C. Moisturizing M Light or heavy kneading, pinching and rolling of the

muscles
A shaking movement achieved when the esthetician
D. Combination skin A quickly shakes his/her arms while fingertips or palms
E. Effleurage L Product that aids in preventing the growth of bacteria
F. Oily skin B A lack of moisture (water) in the skin
Skin type that contains sufficient moisture and

G. Acne O
sebum production
H. Tapotement D Skin type that displays areas that are both dry and oily
I. Excessive sun exposure C Compensates for the unavoidable losses skin sustains
from aging and exposure to the environment
J. Friction N Type of skin that lacks adequate sebum production
K. Rosacea G Skin condition caused by overactivity of sebaceous

glands
L. Antiseptic I Cause of 90% of wrinkles
A circular or wringing movement with no gliding,

M. Petrissage J usually performed with fingertips or palms of hands
Type of skin that has excess sebum production and

N. Dry skin F appears thick and shiny
Skin condition characterized by flushed redness,

O. Normal K dilated capillaries and small red bumps
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Basic Facial Procedure
This rubric is designed to compare your skill to industry expectations. Indicate your present
level of performance by checking the appropriate box. Your teacher will direct you in the
completion of this rubric.
Rubric Assessment
The Basic Facial is one of the most requested services in the skin care center. By following and practicing the
steps in this rubric, you will be prepared to offer a basic facial service for your clients. Note that the numbers
for each step correspond with the step-by-step technical images found in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
n Disinfect facial service area; set up facial bed; arrange
products; check equipment; perform a proper draping
PROCEDURE
1. Wash and sanitize hands
(wear protective gloves if required)
2. Drape client
CLEANSE FACE
3. Obtain cleansing crème
4. Apply cleansing crème
5. Remove cleansing crème
REPEAT CLEANSING PROCEDURE
6. Apply toner
ANALYZE
7. Place eye pads over client’s eyes
8. Analyze client’s skin
EXFOLIATE AND STEAM
9. a) Apply exfoliant
b) Steam
10. Remove exfoliant
EXTRACTION
11. Apply desincrustation solution, if necessary, and steam
12. Perform any necessary extractions
13. Apply toner
MASSAGE
14. Obtain massage crème
15. Apply massage crème
16. Perform massage movements
17. Remove massage crème
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Basic Facial Procedure
Rubric Assessment Continued
Teacher
FACIAL MASK
18. Apply facial mask
19. Cover the mask
20. Allow mask to set
21. Remove mask
22. Apply toner
PROTECT
23. Apply eye product
24. Apply moisturizing crème and sun protection if necessary
COMPLETION
n Have client dress; lead client to front counter; offer to
rebook client’s next visit; recommend retail; throw away
non-reusable materials; replace used linens; disinfect
implements and facial bed; arrange items for next
service; wash hands with liquid antibacterial soap; place
unused cotton pads and sponges in covered container
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Basic Facial With Multifunction Machine
Rubric Assessment
The basic facial in this rubric is performed utilizing the Multifunction Machine and its attachments, including
the rotating brush for exfoliating, the vacuum and toner spray. By following and practicing the steps in this
rubric, you will be prepared to offer a basic facial with multifunction machine service for your clients. Note
that the numbers for each step correspond with the step-by-step technical images found in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
CLEANSE FACE
6. Apply toner
ANALYZE
EXFOLIATE AND STEAM
9. a) Apply exfoliant and exfoliate with rotating brush
b) Apply manual exfoliant product
c) Dampen brush attachment and insert it into handpiece
d) Increase rotation slowly from jawline contact point
e) Work around the entire face two to three times
f) Steam
EXTRACTION
12. a) Perform any necessary extractions
b) Cover hole in side of ventouse; hold skin taut; gently
glide across forehead
c) Repeat on the sides of nose and chin
13. Apply toner
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Basic Facial With Multifunction Machine
Teacher
MASSAGE
FACIAL MASK
19. Cover the mask
21. Remove mask
22. Apply toner
PROTECT
23. Apply eye protection
24. Apply moisturizing crème and sun protection if necessary
COMPLETION
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Basic Facial With Galvanic/Desincrustation Procedure
Basic Facial with Galvanic/Desincrustation Procedure
The basic facial with Galvanic/Desincrustation treatment utilizes Galvanic Current in conjunction with an
alkaline solution to force the solution deep into the skin. This process liquifies (saponifies) sebum trapped
within the pores and greatly eases the extraction process. By following and practicing the steps in this rubric,
you will be prepared to offer a basic facial with Galvanic/Desincrustation service for your clients. Note that the
numbers for each step correspond with the step-by-step technical images found in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
PROCEDURE
1. Wash and sanitize hands (wear protective gloves if required)
2. Drape client
CLEANSE FACE
6. Apply toner
ANALYZE
EXFOLIATE AND STEAM
b) Steam
10. a) Remove exfoliant
b) Prepare inactive electrode; cover with damp sponge;
place in client’s hand or under shoulder blade
c) Prepare the active electrode by covering
with damp cotton
d) Apply the desincrustation solution to the skin with
cotton pad and to cotton on the active electrode
e) Place the active electrode at the client’s jawline;
turn on the power and negative current
f) Increase the milliamperemeter slowly until client
feels a slight prickle on the skin or has a metallic
taste in his or her mouth
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Basic Facial With Galvanic/Desincrustation Procedure
Rubric Assessment Continued Teacher

g) Move the electrode in small circular motions
across the face; work up one side of the face,
across the forehead and down other side to the
chin; repeat twice; finish at jawline
h) Perform any necessary extractions
i) Turn on the positive polarity and move the
electrode in small circular motions across the face
again; finish at the jawline
j) Turn the milliamperemeter down to zero
k) Turn off the current and the power
l) Remove the electrode from the client’s face and the
client’s hand or back
EXTRACTION
13. Apply toner
MASSAGE
FACIAL MASK
19. Cover the mask
21. Remove mask
22. Apply toner
PROTECT
24. Apply moisturizing crème and/or sun protection if necessary
COMPLETION
non- reusable materials; replace used linens; disinfect
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Basic Facial With Galvanic/Iontophoresis Procedure
Rubric Assessment
The basic facial with Galvanic/Iontophoresis treatment utilizes Galvanic Current to penetrate nourishing,
hydrating and firming ingredients deep into the skin. By following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you
will be prepared to offer a basic facial with Galvanic/Iontophoresis service for your clients. Note that the
Teacher
PREPARATION
PROCEDURE
1. Wash and sanitize hands (wear protective gloves if
required)
2. Drape client
CLEANSE FACE
6. Apply toner
ANALYZE
EXFOLIATE AND STEAM
b) Steam
EXTRACTION
13. Apply toner
MASSAGE
17. a) Remove massage crème
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Basic Facial With Galvanic/Iontophoresis Procedure

Teacher
17. b) Prepare inactive electrode; cover with damp sponge;

place in client’s hand or under his or her shoulder blade
c) Prepare an active electrode by covering with damp cotton
d) Apply the nourishing serum or concentrate generously
to skin with cotton pad
e) Apply the nourishing serum or concentrate to active

electrode with sponge
f) Place the active electrode at the client’s jawline
g) Turn on the power
h) Turn on the positive current
i) Increase the milliamperemeter slowly until the client feels

a slight prickle or has a metallic taste in his or her mouth
j) Move the electrode in small circular motions across

the face; work up one side of the face, across the
forehead and down other side to the chin; repeat twice
k) Finish at the jawline
l) Turn the milliamperemeter down to zero
m) Turn off the current and the power
n) Remove the electrode from the client’s face and

hand or back
FACIAL MASK
19. Cover the mask
21. Remove mask
22. Apply toner
PROTECT
COMPLETION

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Basic Facial With Indirect High Frequency
Rubric Assessment
The basic facial utilizes Indirect High Frequency Current during the massage to amplify the effects of the
massage movements for relaxation or stimulation. By following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you will
be prepared to offer a basic facial with Indirect High Frequency service for your clients. Note that the
Teacher
PREPARATION
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
CLEANSE FACE
6. Apply toner
ANALYZE
EXFOLIATE AND STEAM
b) Steam
EXTRACTION
13. Apply toner
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Basic Facial With Indirect High Frequency
Teacher
MASSAGE
15. a) Apply massage crème
b) Have the client hold the glass rod electrode
c) Place one hand on client’s face before turning on
the High Frequency Current; turn on the current,
slowly increasing the strength
16. a) Perform massage movements, being careful to not

lift fingers away from client’s skin to avoid shock
b) Massage for no more than 7 minutes per Indirect

High Frequency treatment
c) Turn off current before removing fingers from

client’s face to avoid shock
d) Remove the inactive electrode from the client’s hand
FACIAL MASK
19. Cover the mask
21. Remove mask
22. Apply toner
PROTECT
24. Apply moisturizing crème and/or sun protection

if necessary
COMPLETION
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Basic Facial With Direct High Frequency Procedure
Rubric Assessment
The basic facial with Direct High Frequency treatment delivers antibacterial and drying benefits to the skin. It
is best suited for skin that is oily or acneic and is performed immediately following any extractions to prevent
further breakouts. By following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you will be prepared to offer a basic
facial with Direct High Frequency service for your clients. Note that the numbers for each step correspond
with the step-by-step technical images found in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
CLEANSE FACE
6. Apply toner
ANALYZE
EXFOLIATE AND STEAM
b) Steam
EXTRACTION
13. a) Apply toner (non-alcoholic type)
b) Turn on High Frequency Current; place finger on
glass electrode and make contact with client’s face;
lift finger
c) Glide electrode across face, concentrating on areas
that were extracted
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Basic Facial With Direct High Frequency Procedure
Teacher
d) Repeat until the entire face has been covered at least

once; do not exceed 5 minutes for the entire treatment
e) Turn down the current slowly until it is completely off
f) Remove the active electrode from your client’s skin
MASSAGE
FACIAL MASK
19. Cover the mask
21. Remove mask
22. Apply toner
PROTECT
COMPLETION
implements and facial bed; arrange items for next service;
wash hands with liquid antibacterial soap; place unused
cotton pads and sponges in covered container
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1. Full-Time Facials
5 days in a full time work week times 5 facials per day = 25 facials If a facial takes from 60 to 90
performed in one week minutes to perform, discuss with a
partner how many facials you could
perform during one week, working
full time. You can use the box to the
left to store your calculations.
2. Facial Fees
25 facial clients times $15 in retail = $375.00 +
Using the number you calculated
25 facial clients at $40 per facial = $1,000 above as the number of facials
possible to perform in one week,
$1,000 facial revenue calculate the total dollars generated
+ 375 retail income = if each client purchased $15 in retail
$1,375 total income products and each facial was priced
at $40.
3. My Dream Machine
If you could design a machine to
be used for skin care services, what
would it look like and what specific
function would it perform?
Write notes about your new

machine on the lines provided to
the left.
Discuss your idea with a partner.
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1. TRUE FALSE 90% of wrinkles are caused by excessive sun exposure.
THE CHALLENGE
well you know your new 2. TRUE FALSE The basic regimen of skin care is recommended to be
material. First answer followed three times each day.
The basic regimen of skin care is recommended to be followed twice each day.
the Memory Box that
3. Massage is the systematic, therapeutic method of manipulating
Look up each answer on the body by rubbing, pinching, tapping, kneading or stroking with hands,
the corresponding page in fingers or an instrument.
the Salon Fundamentals™
4. A product with an SPF of 15 indicates:
Esthetics textbook. Check a. the number of hours of protection from sun exposure
“got it” for all correct b. sun exposure can be 15% longer than without protection
answers and “not yet” for c. the time in minutes between reapplications of the sunscreen
d. the number of times sunscreen should be applied for a full day of protection
Using the “Know Chart,” 5. Which of the following terms describes an exfoliant that contains a granular
record all of your correct
substance with a slightly grainy or rough texture?
a. toning
responses in the “I b. chemical
Know” column. After c. moisturizing
correcting incorrect d. mechanical
answers, record all of your 6. Masks with the primary purpose of absorbing excess oil, tightening and
corrected responses in the refining the pores and aiding in preventing clogging are:
“I Need to Study” column. a. gel masks
b. clay masks
That way you know exactly c. paraffin masks
what to review before d. modeling masks
7. The actual action or movement performed during the massage treatment
is referred to as:
Directions: Identify a. massage
whether questions 1 and b. ventouse
2 are True or False by c. saponification
d. manipulation
You can earn an extra 8. A light or heavy kneading, pinching and rolling of a muscle is called:
point for each false
a. chucking
b. petrissage
statement you c. effleurage
appropriately correct. d. tapotement
Question 3 requires you 9. Which of the following is NOT a characteristic of rosacea?
to write in an answer a. a vascular disorder
in the blank provided. b. small red bumps
Answers to the questions c. occurs between the ages of 30 – 40
d. overactivity of the sebaceous glands
may be selected by 10. An overactivity of the sebaceous glands causes:
a. acne
circling a, b, c or d below
b. rosacea
each statement to indicate c. couperose
your choice. d. dehydration
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o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
Imagine that you are a representative of the regulating agency that oversees your profession. You have
just been asked to represent this prestigious group at a meeting to discuss the safety and infection control
procedures for facials with and without machines. In the space provided below, write an opening statement
you would use to gain interest and an effective closing statement to present yourself as a knowledgeable
representative of the regulating agency.
OPENING STATEMENT: To discard or to disinfect—that is the question!
CLOSING STATEMENT: Remember – DISCARD or DISINFECT!
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The Line Up
Put the following 24 steps for the basic facial procedure in the correct order with 1
being the first step, 2 being the second step and so forth.
NUMBER STEP
18 Apply facial mask
5 Remove cleansing crème
14 Obtain massage crème from the container with a spatula
17 Remove massage crème
4 Apply cleansing crème
24 Apply moisturizing crème and sun protection, if needed
19 Cover the mask
12 Perform any necessary extractions
20 Allow mask to set
11 Apply desincrustation solution, if necessary, and steam
3 Obtain cleansing crème with a spatula
23 Apply eye product
8 Analyze client’s skin
13 Apply toner following necessary extractions
1 Wash and sanitize hands
9 Apply exfoliant and steam
7 Place eye pads over client’s eyes
21 Remove mask
15 Apply massage crème

16 Perform massage movements
10 Remove exfoliant
6 Apply toner following cleanser
2 Drape client
22 Apply toner following removal of mask
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knowledge grid
of Chapter 10, Facials. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and
KNOW What is the meaning of the word saponification?
Saponification is the term that describes the liquification process that occurs when a
highly alkaline solution liquifies sebum.
COMPREHEND Why are butterfly eye pads preferred to ordinary eye pads?
Butterfly eye pads are preferred over ordinary eye pads because they remain in place as
the client’s head is moved during various stages of facial treatment.
APPLY Demonstrate your knowledge of the five basic massage manipulations by drawing a quick
sketch next to each term that would represent the effects of that manipulation.
Effleurage Petrissage Tapotement Friction Vibration
ANALYZE Compare the effects of a massage using primarily effleurage manipulations to

a massage using vibration manipulations.
The massage using primarily effleurage manipulations would leave the client feeling relaxed, while the massage
using vibration manipulations would feel stimulating or invigorating.
SYNTHESIZE Create a promotional phrase for a facial using lavender aromatherapy and
effleurage massage movements.
A promotional phrase for a facial using lavender aromatherapy and effleurage massage could be
“Sweet slumber will follow.”
EVALUATE What is your opinion of performing facials without machines?
A sample opinion may include the fact that performing facials without machines helps build skill levels that
eventually help increase the potential utilization of facials with machines.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. The first step in the skin care regimen that is designed to remove dirt, oil, makeup
and environmental pollutants is:
a. toning
b. protecting
c. cleansing
d. moisturizing
2. Skin care products used for cleansing the skin while properly balancing the pH are:
a. toners
b. cleansers
c. sunscreens
d. moisturizers
3. Moisturizers are responsible for:

a. balancing the pH
b. removing dirt, oil and makeup
c. protecting the skin from UVA and UVB rays
d. replenishing and balancing moisture and oil
4. What percentage of wrinkles is caused by the natural aging process?

a. 10%
b. 40%
c. 70%
d. 90%
5. If you are selecting a sunscreen, it is recommended that you choose one that has protection from:
a. UVA rays only
b. UVB rays only
c. UVA and UVB rays
d. neither UVA nor UVB rays
6. Which term below identifies a type of exfoliant that contains a granular substance with a
rough texture that works as an abrasive to remove dead skin cells?
a. enzyme
b. chemical
c. mechanical
d. alpha hydroxy acid
7. Which type of mask can be pulled from the face in one piece?
a. gel
b. paraffin
c. clay/mud
d. modeling
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Brain Conditioners
8. All of the following are benefits of massage EXCEPT:

a. relaxation
b. pain relief
c. strengthening muscles
d. decreasing blood supply to the skin
9. The method of massage used to soothe muscles and relax the sensory nerve endings
at the surface of the skin is called:
a. friction
b. petrissage
c. effleurage
d. tapotement
10. Effleurage is used on all of the following parts of the body EXCEPT:
a. face
b. legs
c. neck
d. arms
11. Fulling is a form of which type of massage movement?

a. vibration
b. effleurage
c. petrissage
d. tapotement
12. Which of the following methods of massage is a light tapping or slapping movement
applied with the fingertips or partly flexed fingers?
a. friction
b. vibration
c. effleurage
d. tapotement
13. Which type of massage should NEVER be used on a client with sensitive skin or on
certain skin conditions such as acne or rosacea?
a. friction
b. vibration
c. petrissage
d. tapotement
14. A motion that resembles a chopping movement using the edge of the hands is referred to as:
a. fulling
b. hacking
c. wringing
d. chucking
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Brain Conditioners
15. Which of the following movements of massage is a circular or wringing movement with no gliding?
a. friction
b. vibration
c. petrissage
d. tapotement
16. A shaking movement achieved when the esthetician quickly shakes his or her arms while the
fingertips or palms are touching the client is called:
a. vibration
b. effleurage
c. petrissage
d. tapotement
17. Which of the following is NOT a contraindication for massage?

a. headache
b. heart condition
c. previous stroke
18. Which skin type demonstrates sufficient moisture and sebum production?
a. oily
b. normal
c. dehydration
d. combination
19. The type of skin that lacks adequate sebum production and exhibits heightened
sensitivity is referred to as:
a. dry
b. oily
c. normal
d. combination
20. Which of the following is a characteristic of oily skin?

a. small pore size
b. fine broken capillaries
c. excess sebum production
d. heightened sensitivity
21. The most common skin type is referred to as:

a. dry
b. normal
c. combination
d. mature/aging
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Brain Conditioners
22. Which of the following is a characteristic of a couperose skin condition?

a. superficial dryness
b. lacks elasticity and firmness
c. displays excess sebum production
d. frequently found on the cheeks and corners of the nose
23. Which skin condition is characterized by flushed redness, dilated capillaries and small red bumps?
a. oily
b. rosacea
c. combination
d. dehydration
24. All of the following are considered skin types EXCEPT:

a. dry
b. oily
c. acne
d. combination
25. If you suspect a client has a medical condition, you should always:
a. perform a facial
b. diagnose the condition yourself
c. treat the condition with medication
d. refer your client to a dermatologist or specialist
26. Which of the products listed below assists in preventing the growth of bacteria?
a. toner
b. antiseptic
c. astringent
d. moisturizer
27. All of the following are types of masks EXCEPT:

a. dry skin
b. calming
c. oily skin
d. ventouse
28. Which of the following is NOT a skin care product?

a. toner
b. sunscreen
c. moisturizer
d. infrared lamp
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Brain Conditioners
29. Which of the following is NOT a contraindication for facials with and without machines?
a. diabetes
b. epilepsy
c. prosthesis
d. common cold
30. All of the following take place in the Greeting phase EXCEPT:
a. handshake
b. eye contact
c. facial services
d. professional demeanor
31. During the Completion phase one of the goals is to:

a. ensure client comfort
b. ask questions to discover the client’s needs
c. request satisfaction feedback from your client
d. communicate to build rapport and develop a relationship with the client
32. Which of the following procedures is one of the most requested services in the skin care center?
a. basic facial
b. facial with Galvanic/iontophoresis
c. facial with Galvanic/desincrustation
d. facial wih Indirect High Frequency
33. Which of the following is NOT a massage tip?

a. apply firm pressure
b. use caution around the eyes and eyelids to avoid stretching sensitive skin
c. maintain physical contact with your client as you massage with a constant rhythm
d. never use up-and-out motions to help protect the underlying muscle tissue
34. After the basic facial is complete, the esthetician should do all of the
following EXCEPT:
a. wash your hands with liquid antibacterial soap
b. replace used towels and sheets with fresh ones
c. keep non-reusable materials used during the service
d. place unused cotton pads and sponges in a covered container
35. A desincrustation facial treatment utilizes what current in conjunction with an

alkaline solution?
a. Galvanic
b. Penetrating
c. Direct High Frequency
d. Indirect High Frequency
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Brain Conditioners
36. Indirect High Frequency Current is used to amplify the effects of the massage
movements for relaxation or:
a. hydration
b. cleansing
c. penetration
d. stimulation
37. Which of the following procedures CANNOT be performed with gloves?

a. basic facials
b. iontophoresis
c. Direct High Frequency
d. Indirect High Frequency
38. A Direct High Frequency treatment is best suited for skin that is:
a. dry
b. normal
c. combination
d. oily or acneic
39. To avoid discomfort and irritation when performing a facial on a male client, all movements
should be made in a(an):
a. circular motion
b. upward motion
c. downward motion
d. side-to-side motion
40. Which of the following would be recommended to use for a soothing, hydrating
treatment for a bearded male client?
a. gel
b. clay mask
c. crème mask
d. modeling mask
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Brain Conditioners
41. Q:
A:
42. Q:
A:
43. Q:
A:
BONUS QUESTION!
class, and no one can answer the question within an agreed upon time (between you and the teacher), you
earn a BONUS OF FIVE ADDITIONAL POINTS.
44.
ESSAY QUESTION:
45. A maximum of five additional points is possible by selecting one of the following essay questions to answer.
45a. List the five basic movements of massage and the benefit of those movements.
Movement Benefit
Effleurage Soothes muscles, relaxes sensory nerve endings at skin surface
Petrissage Deeply stimulates muscles, nerves and skin glands; increases

circulation of blood and lymph
Tapotement Increases blood circulation, stimulates the nerves and promotes

muscle contraction
Friction Stimulates and warms the muscles, increases circulation and

promotes sebaceous gland activity
Vibration Loosens up and helps relax larger body parts
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Brain Conditioners
45b. Choose two of the five important points to remember when performing massage that
were highlighted in this chapter and list them below.
Any two of the following points would be acceptable:
Check for contraindications first because massage could present a risk for some clients,
Massage should never be too deep, aggressive or lengthy,
Direct massage movements from the origin of the muscles to insertion in order to avoid damage to
muscle tissues.
Provide an even tempo or rhythm and pressure when performing facial manipulations to ensure a
relaxing effect for the client.
Massage techniques can be practiced on a mannequin head or on your knee.
45c. In your opinion, how can referrals and effective recommendations that turn into sales contribute to the
growth of a business?
Any two of the following descriptions would be acceptable:
Dehydration – shows a lack of moisture in the skin; dryness, flakiness, lines
Couperose – displays fine dilated capillaries at cheeks and corner of nose
Rosacea – a vascular disorder; characterized by flushed redness and dilated capillaries
Acne – caused by overactivity by sebaceous glands; characterized by blackheads, whiteheads, papules

and pustules
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1. page 326 21. page 333

2. page 326 22. page 333
3. page 326 23. page 333
4. page 326 24. page 333
5. page 327 25 page 334
6. page 327 26. page 335
7. page 328 27. page 335
8. page 329 28. page 335
9. page 330 29. page 338
10. page 330 30. page 339
11. page 330 31. page 340
12. page 330 32. page 341
13. page 331 33. page 350
14. page 331 34. page 352
15. page 331 35. page 356
16. page 331 36. page 360
17. page 332 37. page 361
18. page 333 38. page 362
19. page 333 39. page 365
20. page 333 40. page 365
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Facials
Experts agree that it is important to summarize

your feelings and reactions about what you are
learning. Note especially things that surprised you,
things you found difficult to learn, and suggestions
and ideas you received from friends that helped make
learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.
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11
HAIR REMOVAL
VALUE MAIN IDEA
By learning modern temporary and Societal norms, and occasionally certain

permanent hair removal procedures, you medical or genetic conditions, compel
can offer specialized services to your clients clients to remove unwanted body hair.
and add value to your business. This chapter will help you develop a
thorough knowledge of hair growth, as
well as the various types of hair removal
options, including temporary and permanent
methods. In addition, you will learn to
perform, step-by-step, the waxing method
of hair removal for the face and body.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Hair Growth n Hair Growth Cycle n Explain the hair growth cycle.
and Removal n Temporary Removal Methods n Differentiate between temporary and
Methods permanent hair removal services.
n Permanent Removal Methods
n Waxing Essentials n Explain techniques for each type of hair
n Infection Control and Safety removal and how procedures differ for
face and body.
n Client Consultation
n Identify the considerations for waxing.
n Describe the waxing essentials including
products, implements and supplies,
equipment and types of waxes.
n Demonstrate infection control, safety
measures and the client consultation for
each waxing service.
Waxing n Eyebrow Wax n Demonstrate the basic preparation,

Services n Upper Lip Wax procedures and completion steps for:
n Underarm Wax Eyebrow waxing
n Bikini Wax Upper lip waxing
n Lower Leg Wax Underarm waxing
Bikini waxing
Lower leg waxing
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smartNOTES
Chapter 11 Hair Removal Hair Growth and Removal Methods Pages 371-372
M 1 Explain the hair growth cycle
Hair Growth Hair follicle originates in the dermis where it is rooted in the dermal papilla bulb
Nourished by capillaries that carry blood and oxygen to the bulb; follicles may contain
more than one hair, each in various stages of growth; up to 150 follicles in one square
centimeter of skin; sebaceous glands secrete oil to lubricate the hair and skin and are
attached to the follicles
Hirsutism Excessive growth of hair on various areas of the body; typically affects women by
causing dark hair to grow in areas of the body where men usually grow more hair
(face, arms, legs and back); result of hormonal imbalances during menopause
Hypertrichosis Excessive hair growth, genetically determined and occurs anywhere on the body
Technical Hair Terms Capilli: hair that grows on the scalp
Barba: thick, course hair that grows on the face to form a beard
Cilia: eyelash hair
Supercilia: eyebrow hair
Lanugo: soft, downy hair on the body at birth
Vellus: thin, soft, unpigmented hair covering the body
Terminal: thicker, pigmented hair that grows on areas of the body after puberty
n Hair Growth Cycle Consists of 3 phases; all hair is in one of the 3 phases at any given time
ANAGEN CATAGEN TELOGEN
n First and n Transitional and n Last phase occurs over an average

longest phase shortest phase of 4 to 12 weeks for body hair
n Hair actively grows n Hair begins to destroy n Hair sheds and the follicle
itself as it disconnects rests and prepares to resume
from the papilla the anagen phase
Waxing Weakens the papilla and can eventually inhibit the hair from returning
Only destroys the hairs in the follicle that are in the anagen phase with each service
More and more of the anagen-stage hair is removed as each service occurs,
which causes the regrowth to appear to grow more slowly and sparsely
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smartNOTES
M 2
Differentiate between temporary and
permanent hair removal services
M 3 Explain techniques for each type of hair removal

and how procedures differ for face and body
Temporary Procedure of shaving, chemical depilatories, tweezing, waxing, threading and sugaring
n
Removal Methods
Considerations:
Shaving n Performed by client at home with an electric shaver, clipper or razor
n Removes large areas of hair (arms and legs) at surface of skin

n None of the hair is destroyed at the root; usually grows back beginning
with short stubble within 24 - 48 hours
n Client with dark hair and fair skin may have a visible ‘shadow’
n Apply shaving crème before the service to soften the skin and reduce
potential for dryness or irritation from the razor
n Painless method of hair removal that dissolves hair at skin level
n Available in crème, paste or powder form

n Main ingredient is a thioglycolic acid derivative with an alkaline pH that
Chemical
chemically softens and dissolves the protein structure of the hair
Depilatories
n Perform a patch test on client to determine sensitivity to product prior to use
n If client develops itching, burning or inflammation, service should

not be performed
n Apply petroleum jelly to areas surrounding the hair to be removed to
prevent chemical from seeping into unwanted areas and causing irritation
n Left on for no more than 10 min., removed with paper towel, rinsed
thoroughly, patted dry, and soothing lotion applied
n Regrowth occurs within several days
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smartNOTES
Temporary
n
Removal Methods
continued
Hair Lighten hair by removing pigment, making it less obvious; soften, but
Lighteners (Bleach) don’t remove hair
Considerations:
n Used to remove unwanted hair from smaller areas, such as eyebrows,

Tweezing chin or around the mouth; too painful to use on larger areas of the body
n Individual hair is grasped with the tweezers and removed in the
direction of hair growth
n Results typically last 3 - 8 weeks
Eyebrow Tweezing 1. Assemble materials; prepare workspace

Guidelines 2. Wash and sanitize hands
3. Cleanse the area to be tweezed
4. Analyze eyebrows; thick? thin?
5. Brush the hairs up to see the base
6. Hold skin taut tweeze above and below eyebrow
7. Tweeze in an upward direction from inside beginning of
eyebrow to top arch
8. Tweeze downward toward the outer edge of the eyebrow
9. Complete one eyebrow, then the other
10. Apply astringent, then soothing crème
11. Rebook the client within 4 weeks to keep eyebrows in shape
12. Perform infection control procedures
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smartNOTES
M 4 Identify the considerations for waxing
Considerations:
Waxing n One of the most requested hair removal services
n Involves applying wax directly to the skin and then removing the wax and hair
n 90% profit margin; helps build clientele by cross-promoting other services
n Removes hair from both large and small areas; lasts up to 4 - 6 weeks;
commonly performed on legs, arms, underarms, chin, eyebrows, lips, hairlines,
bikini lines, backs, breasts, fingers and toes; most popular is upper lip
n If waxing a client’s breasts, never apply wax to the nipples
Considerations Prior Factors to consider prior to hair removal include:

to Waxing
Area to be waxed for the client
Client needs and hair type
Contraindications
Client skin sensitivity
Client budget
Personal preference on the part of the client
Soft Wax SOFT WAX HARD WAX

n Used for majority of waxing n Ideal for small areas and
Hard Wax services thinner, more sensitive skin
n Large areas accomplished n Warmed in heated wax pot
quickly and easily
n Applied in thick layer to skin;
n Wax is melted in heated wax allowed to harden, then lifted
pot; applied to skin in thin with the fingers at one end
layer; covered with strips of and removed in the opposite
material, which are lifted off direction it was applied
the skin, removing wax and
n Most commonly used for
hair simultaneously
facial hair removal; also
n Strips can be used at least appropriate for sensitive bikini
twice on the same client and underarm hair removal
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smartNOTES
Considerations:
Threading n Ancient method of hair removal primarily used to shape brows & remove hair
from the upper lip; used frequently in Middle East
n Utilizes 100 percent cotton thread twisted & rolled along skin, entwining
hair and lifting it from the follicle (slight pinch is felt)
n Results last 3 to 8 weeks (same as with tweezing)
Considerations:
Sugaring n Paste made primarily of sugar is applied to the surface of the skin in a
rolling motion
n Used on all areas of body; originated in Egypt
n Generally lasts between 4 - 6 weeks depending on the level of hair growth
n Skin may be red following treatment
n Sugar paste adheres only to hair, not to the skin, and is easily removed
with water
Permanent Electrolysis and laser hair removal; require the use of electrical equipment and
n
Removal Methods specialized training and licensing; designed to damage the papilla of the hair,
inhibiting the hair’s ability to grow back
Considerations:
Electrolysis n Method of hair removal that requires the technician to insert a small
needle into each hair follicle, at the angle of the follicle and alongside
the hair, until it reaches the root
n Small needle conducts short-wave (Galvanic current) electric current
that destroys the papilla and permanently prevents regrowth; generally a
series of treatments until most of the hair has been removed from the desired area
n Should not be performed on any client that is pregnant, has a heart
condition or diabetes; should not be performed on any hair that grows
from a mole
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smartNOTES
Electrologist Person specializing in electrolysis; typically works on small areas at a time

Three Methods of
Electrolysis
GALVANIC THERMOLYSIS BLEND
n Also called the multiple- nHigh Frequency or short-wave n Short wave current versus
needle method method short wave method
n Decomposes papilla by n Single needle inserted into n Best for clients with excessive
inserting 12 to 14 needles into follicles or resistant hair growth
individual follicles n Current travels to the papilla
n Low level current passes into for less than a second,
the needle and causes a coagulates cells that destroy
chemical reaction in the cells the papilla
of the papilla n Time and intensity of current
n Current is on for 30 are controlled; client feels
seconds to 2.5 minutes only a tiny “flash” of heat
Considerations:
Laser Hair Removal n Uses wavelengths of light to penetrate and diminish or destroy hair bulbs
n Laser hair removal machine emits a beam of light that passes through
the skin to the hair follicle; hair absorbs the light and transforms it
into heat energy, which destroys the hair bulb
n Process is quicker than electrolysis; works best on hair in anagen stage
n Repeat treatments are necessary for best results to catch all hairs as
they enter the anagen stage; dark skin and light skin make the work more
difficult because laser is drawn to areas of pigmentation
Considerations:
Photo Epilation or n An intense pulsed light beam creates a burst of energy used to destroy
Pulsed Light
hair bulbs with minimal scarring
n Both laser and pulsed light are a form of light beam; difference between
the two is that a laser is a constant beam of light and the pulsed is not constant
n Both methods carry the risk of scarring, but there is much less a chance of burning or
scarring when using pulsed light since it is targeted at the skin in quick, short intervals
n Large areas can be treated rapidly with pulsed light
Which of the permanent hair removal methods

would you prefer if you were going be a client?
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M 5 Describe the waxing essentials including products, implements
and supplies, equipment and types of waxes
M 6 Demonstrate infection control, safety measures and the

client consultation for each waxing service.
LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Fill in the Blanks
Use the following section to help you organize essential information such as general waxing considerations,
eyebrow shaping guidelines, waxing implements, supplies and equipment and contraindications.
General Waxing Considerations (page 378)
Before n Cease shaving or tweezing area to be waxed at least two to four weeks prior to service
the n Avoid exfoliating at least 48 hours prior to the waxing service to avoid skin sensitivity
Waxing
n Avoid excessive sun exposure at least 48 hours prior to the waxing service
Service
n Advise clients to wear loose clothing in case the skin is sensitive after the appointment
n Book waxing appointments at least 48 hours prior to special occasions in case of an
adverse reaction
During n Air , heat and humidity all affect the temperature of wax
the n Keep the temperature of your room between 70° and 75° Fahrenheit (21°-24° Celsius) at
Waxing all times
Service
n Do not wax under heating or air conditioning vents or in excessively drafty areas
n Keep client warm ; if necessary, use blankets and heated table pads
n Wear protective gloves to protect you and your client from bloodborne pathogens ,
viruses or bacteria
After Avoid:
the n Applying makeup , other than loose powder, for two hours after facial waxing
Waxing
n Applying highly fragrant oils or lotions over the waxed areas
Service
n Using excessively hot showers , saunas or steam rooms for several hours after waxing
n Using harsh or detergent soaps over waxed areas immediately following the service
n Exposing the waxed areas to sun or tanning beds for 24 hours, use of physical or
chemical exfoliants, and/or swimming in lakes or oceans the same day of waxing services
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Eyebrow Shaping Guidelines (page 379)
1. Space between the eyebrows should be equal to the width of the eye
2. Inner edge of the eyebrow should start above the nostril . To establish that point, hold a pencil to the side
of the nose straight up to the eyebrow
3. Establish the length of the eyebrow, hold the pencil diagonally from the nostril and extend it to the
outer corner of the eye. The eyebrow should not exceed this point
4. Determine highest part of the arch by using a pencil to connect the nostril to the outside edge of the iris .
The eyebrow should not exceed this point. If extremely thick, may also decide to remove the hair above the
eyebrow
Waxing Products, Implements and Supplies (page 380-382)
Product Function
Antiseptic preparation Sanitizes skin; removes buildup on body
Cornstarch or powder Buffers the skin from wax and prevents skin from lifting ;
absorbs moisture remaining on skin
Soothing lotion Calms the skin after waxing
Wax Removes unwanted hair
Wax remover Removes wax residue from skin
Hair growth retardant Slows growth of hair after waxing
Eyebrow brush and comb Shape and groom brow
Gloves Protect hands and skin
Headband and hairnet Holds hair out of the way
Long-handled cotton swabs Apply products
Muslin or Pellon® (fiber) Removes wax and hair
Plastic bags Holds discarded materials
Small scissors Trims longer hair
Sheets Protect facial bed; cover client
Tissues Aid application of products
Tweezers Remove stray hairs and shapes brows
Wooden application sticks/spatulas Applies wax to skin
Hand-held mirror Allows client to view results
Equipment cleaner Removes wax, dirt and bacteria from the cart and other
surfaces
Professional cart Holds all supplies and implements; can be

moved to any location in the skin care center
Facial chair or bed Holds client for comfort

Wax warmer (pot) Melts and holds wax
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LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Thinking Map
Create a Thinking Map to help yourself make sense of how your SmartNotes fit together. Use all of the words in the
Jump-Start Box as well as pictures to make a visual that will help you connect the important ideas in this section to each
other. Be creative!
Hair disconnects from papilla
Hair grows actively Transitional phase
Longest phase Follicle prepares to return

Catagen
to anagen
Hair sheds
Anagen 3 Phases Life Cycle of Hair Telogen
Hair Growth
and
Removal Methods Blend
Shaving 2 Types of Hair Removal

Galvanic Thermolysis
Chemical
depilatories
Temporary Permanent Electrolysis

Tweezing
Threading Laser
Waxing
Anagen Catagen Telogen Temporary

Shaving Tweezing Waxing Laser
JUMP START BOX
Electrolysis Hair sheds Permanent Transitional phase
Thermolysis Longest phase Chemical Depilatories Galvanic
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L E AR N I N G CON N E CT I ON Word Find
Try to find the words that are listed in the Jump Start Box below in the chart shown here. Highlight each word you can locate.
lclientdfantisepticmcbxeertweezerswqopnporeasimnalafhgy
aolsoftwaxsothsoothinglotiononlheatedwaxpotbiddgbudgeta
underarmrmasaiousfacialhairtrtouqmxsensitiveskinsdalopet
iatrstbakteriaiczvaimplementsaopghcornstarchdunwontedlei
bufferunmatmoisturefkjiisdfphandheldmirrortracbikinipofif
professionalcartiytqlksafghhardwaxsknnstrayhairsspootaatk
dyhnmcskalapplicationsticksdopabacteriaaczslsmallscissors
tessiutissuewedseyebrowbrushsatsalsanitizesqwamndszopot
dkklasldkspatulasereheadbandbvcxguiteunwantedhairstwaxi
JUMP START BOX
antiseptic client headband sensitive skin tissue

application sticks cornstarch heated wax pot small scissors tweezers
bacteria eyebrow brush implements soft wax underarm
bikini facial hair moisture soothing lotion unwanted hair
budget hand-held mirror professional cart spatulas wax
buffer hard wax sanitize stray hairs
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smartNOTES
n Infection Control Guidelines for safety and sanitation:

and Safety 1. Carefully read and follow manufacturer’s instructions
2. Test the temperature of heated wax on your forearm before applying to client’s skin
3. Do not wax eyelids, inside of nose or ears or nipples
4. Always perform a patch test prior to performing a service
5. Never re-use wax or re-dip application spatulas
6. Discard anything that cannot be sanitized after use
7. Conduct a thorough client consultation prior to service
8. Before every client: > Clean and disinfect cart and wax pot
> Replace wax
> Change sheets
> Wash hands
Contraindications Avoid waxing over areas with contraindications that may cause excessive irritation
Skin Conditions Health Conditions
n varicose veins n diabetes

n pronounced moles or warts n poor circulation
n cuts, abrasions, wounds or n chemotherapy/
open sores radiation
treatments
CAUTION n active Herpes
!!! n high blood pressure
n acne
n low pain threshold
n skin diseases
n lupus
n sunburn
n rashes
n cysts or boils
Oral and Topical Medications
n Accutane®
n antibiotics
n cortisone crèmes
n Retin-A®/ Renova
n AHAs/BHAs
n chemical peels
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smartNOTES
n Client Consultation Client consultations conducted prior to hair removal service should cover:
n Client’s medical history
n Present condition of his or her skin and health
n Desired needs and goals
n Your recommendation for the appropriate service
n A thorough explanation of the procedure including time, cost, results and
possible side-effects will be added to client consultation form
Five Phases of Service
Phase: GREETING
How? Welcome; introduction; firm handshake; make direct eye contact
Why? Break the ice; learn the client’s name; learn clues about personality; begin
building rapport with client
Phase: ASK, ANALYZE,
ASSESS
How? Client Consultation Form; private consultation; client skin concerns;

health-related conditions; ask about medications; discuss skin care objectives
Why? Client record; contact information; client skin condition, concerns,
contraindications for treatment
Phase: AGREEMENT
How? Tell client results of the skin evaluation; recommend treatments; explain
methods, equipment, and products
Why? Educate and reassure your client
Phase: DELIVERY
How? Ensure client comfort; explain steps taking place; commit to quality of service
Why? Satisfy the client’s needs
Phase: COMPLETION
How? Gain feedback; discuss skin care regimen; suggest purchase of products; schedule
next appointment; thank customer; follow-up note or phone call
Why? Ensure client satisfaction; increase retail sales; encourage referrals; ensure client
had no adverse reactions
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Eyebrow Waxing Procedure
This rubric is designed to compare your skill to industry expectations. Indicate your pres-
ent level of performance by checking the appropriate box. Your teacher will direct you in the
Rubric Assessment
The eyebrow waxing procedure is requested by clients wishing to improve and shape the look of the entire
face. A client’s eyes can appear brighter and wider after an eyebrow wax. Since this procedure is quick and
easy to perform, it is also a great income generator. By following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you
will be prepared to offer an eyebrow waxing service to your clients. Note that the numbers for each step
correspond with the step-by-step technical images found in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
n Disinfect facial service area; place protective cover on
facial bed; cut removal strips to be used in advance;
arrange antiseptic preparation, powder, wax, remover,
soothing gel or medicated lotion, spatulas, tweezers,
gloves; wax warmed at least 30 minutes prior
to client arrival
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
PREPARE SKIN
3. Assess direction of the hair growth
4. Apply antiseptic preparation or pre-wax solution;
lightly dust area with powder
APPLY WAX
5. Obtain wax
6. Apply wax (test temperature prior to application)
7. Discard the spatula
REMOVE WAX and HAIR
8. Apply removal strip; press and rub strip
9. Pull skin taut and remove strip
10. Apply pressure
REPEAT
11. Repeat procedure on new area
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Eyebrow Waxing Procedure
Teacher
CLEAN and PROTECT SKIN

12. Remove any excess wax; remove stray hairs with tweezers
13. Apply soothing gel
COMPLETION
n Offer to rebook next appointment; recommend retail
products for home care; dispose of non-reusable
materials used during the waxing treatment; replace
used linens with fresh linens and arrange all products
and implements in proper order; disinfect waxing service
implements, work area and facial bed; wash hands with
liquid antibacterial soap
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Upper Lip Waxing Procedure
Rubric Assessment
The upper lip waxing procedure is requested by clients wishing to remove excess hair on the upper lip, sides
of the face or chin and/or along the hairline. By following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you will be
prepared to offer this waxing service to your clients. Note that the numbers for each step correspond with the
step-by-step technical images found in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
to client arrival
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
PREPARE SKIN
APPLY WAX
5. Obtain wax
REMOVE WAX and HAIR
10. Apply pressure
REPEAT
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Upper Lip Waxing Procedure
Teacher

COMPLETION
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Underarm Waxing Procedure
Rubric Assessment
The underarm waxing procedure is designed for clients choosing to remove the hair from underneath their
arms. By following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you will be prepared to offer this waxing service to
your clients. Note that the numbers for each step correspond with the step-by-step technical images found in
the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
to client arrival
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
PREPARE SKIN
APPLY WAX
5. Obtain wax
REMOVE WAX and HAIR
10. Apply pressure
REPEAT
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Teacher

COMPLETION
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Bikini Waxing Procedure
Rubric Assessment
The classic bikini waxing procedure removes unwanted hair that appears along the panty line. By following and
practicing the steps in this rubric, you will be prepared to offer this waxing service to your clients. Note that
the numbers for each step correspond with the step-by-step technical images found in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
to client arrival
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
PREPARE SKIN
APPLY WAX
5. Obtain wax
REMOVE WAX and HAIR
10. Apply pressure
REPEAT
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Bikini Waxing Procedure
Teacher

COMPLETION
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Lower Leg Waxing Procedure
present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. Your teacher will direct
you in the completion of this rubric.
Rubric Assessment
The lower leg waxing procedure is offered for clients desiring to remove hair from the top of the knee to ankles.
By following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you will be prepared to offer this waxing service to your
clients. Note that the numbers for each step correspond with the step-by-step technical images found in the
textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
to client arrival
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
PREPARE SKIN
APPLY WAX
5. Obtain wax
REMOVE WAX and HAIR
10. Apply pressure
REPEAT
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Lower Leg Waxing Procedure
Teacher

COMPLETION
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MATCHING
Column A Column B
A. Waxing D Technique that removes hair at the surface of the skin,

with hair usually growing back within 24 - 48 hours
B. Temporary hair removal L Method that offers best results to clients with
excessive or resistant hair growth
C. Hypertrichosis M Technique that uses wavelengths of light to diminish

and destroy hair follicles
D. Shaving H Technique that employs a paste applied to the skin

in a rolling motion
E. Chemical depilatories F Temporary hair removal technique that removes

unwanted hair from smaller areas
Permanent method of hair removal in which a needle

F. Tweezing I is inserted into each hair follicle and conducts an
electric current that destroys the papilla
G. Threading A Often the most requested service for estheticians
H. Sugaring K Method that sends a current to the papilla for less

than one second, reducing client discomfort
I. Electrolysis C Excessive growth of hair
Technique that utilizes an intense pulsed light to

J. Galvanic method N destroy hair bulbs with minimal scarring
Includes shaving, the use of chemical depilatories,

K. Thermolysis method B tweezing and waxing
Technique that utilizes 100 percent cotton thread

L. Blend method G that is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin
J Method sometimes called the “multiple-

M. Laser hair removal
needle process”
E A painless method of hair removal that dissolves

N. Photo-epilation
the hair at skin level
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1. Practice Conversation
Esthetician: “You mentioned you play a lot of golf. Do you wear Think about the waxing procedures
shorts when you are out playing on the golf course?” that are presented in this chapter
Client: “Yes, I do. That is if I have shaved my legs!” and write a script to represent a
Esthetician: “I have a great solution for you. Have you ever conversation that might occur
thought of having a leg waxing service? It’s a perfect way to have between a potential waxing client
and yourself.
your legs stay smoother longer!”
Client: “You won’t believe this, but I have been thinking about
having my legs waxed. Just for that reason alone! Do you have
time today?”
Esthetician: “Yes, I do.”
2. Referral Campaign
A sample referral campaign might look something like this:
Waxing services depend largely on
word-of-mouth information that is
1. Select the clients you feel will work hard to refer clients to you. passed on by satisfied clients. On
the lines to the left, create a referral
2. Give each of these selected clients five of your business cards. campaign that would reward clients
for referring other clients to you for
waxing services.
3. Ask each client to write his/her name on the back of each of
your five cards.
4. Explain to the clients that you will offer a free waxing service of
their choice if three of their five cards are returned and, if all
five of their cards are returned, they will receive a
complimentary facial in addition to another waxing service.
5. Monitor the success of the campaign by recording the number

of cards returned next to the client’s name in a journal or by
using a computer spreadsheet. You may also want to store the
name of the person the client referred.
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1. TRUE FALSE Because the materials are so expensive, waxing is often a very
THE CHALLENGE unprofitable service.
The materials required for waxing are inexpensive, making it a very profitable service.
well you know your new 2. TRUE FALSE Tweezing can be very beneficial in finishing eyebrow design.
the Memory Box that
follows to check yourself. 3. A chemical depilatory is a painless method of hair removal that dissolves
Look up each answer on hair at skin level.
the corresponding page in 4. How long are chemical depilatories generally left on the skin?
the Salon Fundamentals™ a. 5 minutes
Esthetics textbook. Check b. 10 minutes
“got it” for all correct c. 15 minutes
answers and “not yet” for d. 20 minutes
all incorrect responses. 5. Galvanic electrolysis is also known as:
Using the “Know Chart,” a. short-wave method
record all of your cor- b. pulsed light method
rect responses in the “I c. high frequency method
d. the “multiple-needle” process
Know” column. After
correcting incorrect 6. Performing patch tests, testing the temperature of the wax and disinfecting
answers, record all of your the workspace are all guidelines for:
a. the follow up
b. client consultation
c. the Agreement phase
That way you know exactly d. safety and sanitation
7. All of the following are examples of contraindications, factors that could cause irritation
during a waxing service, EXCEPT:
a. ingrown hair
Directions: Identify wheth-
b. skin conditions
er questions 1 and c. health conditions
2 are True or False by d. topical medications
8. Which of the following must be completed in order to assess all health and
You can earn an extra medical conditions and ensure that it is safe to perform the service?
point for each false a. follow up
statement you b. consultation
appropriately correct. c. Delivery phase
Question 3 requires you d. Agreement phase
to write in an answer 9. Which phase of client consultation encourages referrals for other clients?
in the blank provided. a. Delivery
Answers to the questions b. Agreement
found in 4 through 10 c. Completion
may be selected by
circling a, b, c or d below 10. Which of the following should be the first step taken in a basic waxing procedure?
each statement to indicate a. obtain wax
your choice.
b. prepare client
c. wash and sanitize hands
d. apply antiseptic or pre-wax
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6. page 382 o got it I know...
o not yet o not yet

o not yet o not yet

o not yet o not yet
I need to study...
o not yet o not yet

10.page 387 o got it
o not yet o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
A mystery shopper is a client that is asked by a teacher or manager to offer an evaluation of the quality of the
service offered following a visit to the skin care center. The teacher offers the mystery shopper a range of time,
usually over two to three weeks, for the visit to occur. It is a mystery to the teacher and to the student when the
shopper will schedule the appointment. The mystery shopper is given an evaluation form that allows input on
the quality of the service offered to the mystery shopper.
Show you know by creating at least 10 mystery shopper questions that could be placed on the evaluation form.
on Sample questions could include:
1. Were you greeted by your skin care professional within the first five minutes of your arrival? Yes No
2. Were you impressed with the cleanliness of your esthetician’s work area? Yes No
3. Was your esthetician friendly, courteous and willing to help you with your skin care needs? Yes No
4. Did the skin care professional ask you appropriate questions to determine your needs? Yes No
5. Did the skin care professional explain the steps of the service as they were being performed? Yes No
6. Did the skin care professional deliver the type of service that you would recommend to others? Yes No
7. Did the skin care professional allow you to feel safe and secure during the delivery of the service? Yes No
8. Did the skin care professional recommend products for you to use at home to maintain your skin? Yes No
9. Did the skin care professional offer to rebook another visit to the skin care center for you? Yes No
10. Would you schedule another appointment with the same skin care professional? Yes No
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knowledge grid
of Chapter 11, Hair Removal. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and
KNOW List the six temporary hair removal techniques mentioned in this chapter.
The six temporary hair removal techniques mentioned in this chapter are shaving,
chemical depilatories, tweezing, waxing, threading and sugaring.
COMPREHEND Explain the life cycle of hair in your own words.
The life cycle of hair begins with hair growth in the anagen phase, which is the longest phase. From the
anagen phase, hair goes through a transition during the catagen phase as it begins to destroy itself as it
disconnects from the papilla. During the last phase, called telogen, the hair sheds and the follicle rests
and prepares to resume the anagen phase.
APPLY Offer an example of a client that would not be a good candidate for a laser hair
removal treatment.
A client with dark skin and dark hair would not be a good candidate for laser hair removal. Since the laser
is drawn to areas of pigmentation, dark skin with a lot of pigment combined with dark hair makes it more
difficult to pinpoint the individual hairs. The same would be true with light hair and light skin.
ANALYZE Classify the temporary methods of hair removal based on popularity

in your area.
Note: Answers may vary based on area. The temporary methods of hair removal classified by
popularity in my local area, with the most popular listed first, would be: shaving, waxing, chemical
depilatories, tweezing, threading and sugaring.
SYNTHESIZE Suggest several ways to ensure client satisfaction following a waxing service.
Ways to ensure client satisfaction following a waxing service include:

n Offer to rebook next appointment
n Recommend retail products for home care
n Inform client of guidelines to minimize discomfort or side-effects
n A follow-up note or phone call
EVALUATE In your opinion, what considerations limit the number of waxing services a client should
have within a 24-hour period?
In my opinion it depends on the sensitivity of the client’s skin and the amount of available time the client has
when considering how many waxing services a client may have within a 24-hour period.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. All of the following are examples of temporary hair removal procedures EXCEPT:
a. shaving
b. waxing
c. tweezing
d. electrolysis
2. During what phase of the life cycle does the hair actively grow?
a. anagen phase
b. catagen phase
c. telogen phase
d. agreement phase
3. During which phase of the life cycle of hair does the hair disconnect from the papilla?
a. anagen phase
b. catagen phase
c. telogen phase
d. delivery phase
4. During which phase of the life cycle of hair does the follicle rest?
a. anagen phase
b. catagen phase
c. telogen phase
d. completion phase
5. In which of the following types of temporary hair removal techniques does the hair
usually grow back within 24 – 48 hours?
a. waxing
b. shaving
c. tweezing
d. chemical depilatory
6. Which of the following types of temporary hair removal techniques is a painless method?
a. waxing
b. sugaring
c. tweezing
d. chemical depilatory
7. Which of the following temporary hair removal techniques utilizes a 100 percent cotton thread
that is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin?
a. waxing
b. shaving
c. threading
d. sugaring
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Brain Conditioners
8. How long does the sugaring method of hair removal generally last?
a. 1 to 2 weeks
b. 3 to 5 weeks
c. 4 to 6 weeks
d. 7 to 10 weeks
9. A necessity for preventing irreparable damage while performing any type of electrolysis is:
a. client relaxation
b. proper training
c. several years of experience
d. the newest and most expensive equipment
10. Which method of electrolysis utilizes multiple-wire needles or probes?

a. blend method
b. Galvanic method
c. laser hair removal
d. thermolysis method
11. In which method of electrolysis does the client only feel a tiny “flash” of heat?
a. blend method
b. Galvanic method
12. Which method of electrolysis offers the best results to clients with excessive or resistant hair growth?
a. blend method
b. Galvanic method
13. Which method of permanent hair removal uses wavelengths of light to diminish or destroy
hundreds of hair bulbs?
a. electrolysis
b. thermolysis
c. photo-epilation
d. laser hair removal
14. Which type of permanent hair removal uses an intense pulsed light to destroy hair bulbs
with minimal scarring?
a. electrolysis
b. thermolysis
c. photo-epilation
d. laser hair removal
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Brain Conditioners
15. During a waxing service you should do all of the following EXCEPT:
a. keep the client warm
b. keep the client relaxed
c. wear protective gloves
d. apply fragrant oils to the client
16. The function of a hair growth retardant is:

a. removes unwanted hair
b. slows the growth of hair after waxing
c. sanitizes skin prior to service
d. calms the skin after waxing
17. Which phase of service consultation educates the esthetician about client skin condition,
concerns and contraindications?
a. Greeting
b. Ask, Analyze, Assess
c. Agreement
d. Delivery
18. Which phase of service consultation educates the client in regards to skin needs, as well as
products and services that can help?
a. Greeting
b. Delivery
c. Agreement
19. Which phase of service consultation ensures client satisfaction and understanding?
a. Ask, Analyze, Assess
b. Agreement
c. Delivery
d. Completion
20. Which basic waxing procedure would include applying a soothing gel:
a. washing and sanitizing hands
b. assessing direction of hair growth
c. cleaning and protecting skin
d. removing wax and hair
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Brain Conditioners
ESSAY QUESTION:
A maximum of five additional points is possible by selecting one of the following essay questions to answer.
21a. Select three products used during the delivery of a professional waxing service and list their function.
Selections could include 3 of the following:
Product Function
Antiseptic preparation Sanitizes skin prior to service; removes buildup on the

body from deodorants, body lotions and oils
Powder Buffers the skin from the wax and prevents skin from
lifting; absorbs any moisture remaining on the skin;
applied prior to wax application
Soothing lotion Calms the skin after waxing
Wax Removes unwanted hair
Wax remover Removes wax residue from skin
Hair growth retardant Slows the growth of hair after waxing; often in a liquid
spray or lotion form
21b. Name at least three health conditions that could cause a client to bruise, swell or experience
excessive pain during a waxing service. Selections could include 3 from the following list:
n Diabetes n High blood pressure

n Poor circulation n Low pain threshold
n Chemotherapy/radiation treatments n Lupus
21c. Compare soft and hard wax using the various benefits of each.
Soft wax is used for the majority of waxing services provided in the skin care center. The benefit of soft wax is
that it can be used to remove hair from large areas quickly and easily. Hard wax is used for more specialized waxing
services and carries with it the benefit of being ideal for small areas and thinner, more sensitive skin.
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1. page 371
2. page 372
3. page 372
4. page 372
5. page 373
6. page 373
7. page 375
8. page 376
9. page 376
10. page 376
11. page 377
12. page 377
13. page 377
14. page 377
15. page 378
16. page 380
17. page 384
18. page 385
19. page 385
20. page 387
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
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NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Hair Removal

things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and
ideas you received from friends that helped make
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12
MAKEUP
VALUE MAIN IDEA
Makeup design offers you an opportunity to This chapter will help you understand color
enhance your client’s best features, minimize theory, face shapes and features as they
flaws and accent natural beauty while relate to makeup design and application.
cross-promoting your services and earning Techniques for evening, brides and mature
commissions on retail sales clients as well as camouflage and corrective
techniques will also be addressed.
Courtesy of Design Forum.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Makeup n The Law of Color n Describe the law of color as it applies to

Design n Facial Shapes and Features makeup.
n Makeup Products and n Identify the seven face shapes and the
Techniques corrective steps to create the illusion of the
classic oval shape.
n Makeup Essentials
n Explain the guidelines for makeup design
including products, techniques and
n Client Consultation considerations.
n Identify and demonstrate the appropriate
use of the essentials of makeup, infection
control and safety guidelines and the client
consultation.
Makeup n Preparing the Skin n Demonstrate the ability to perform basic

Services n Basic Makeup Procedure makeup procedures and recognize the
considerations for specialty makeup.
n Specialty Makeup
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smartNOTES
Chapter 12 Makeup Makeup Design Page 409
n
M 1 Describe the law of color as it applies to makeup
The Law of Color Out of all the colors in the universe, only three are pure
Three primary colors are called pure colors and they are:
Primary Colors YELLOW RED BLUE
Secondary Colors Primary colors mixed together in varying proportions

Primary + Primary = Secondary
YELLOW + RED = ORANGE
BLUE + YELLOW = GREEN
RED + BLUE = VIOLET
Tertiary Colors Primary colors mixed with their neighboring secondary color in varying proportions
Primary Neighbor Tertiary
+ YELLOW
YELLOW ORANGE = ORANGE
YELLOW
YELLOW + GREEN = GREEN
BLUE + GREEN = BLUE

GREEN
BLUE
BLUE + VIOLET = VIOLET
+ RED
RED VIOLET = VIOLET
+ RED
RED ORANGE = ORANGE
Primary + Secondary Mixing primary, secondary and tertiary colors in equal or unequal
+ Tertiary =
proportions makes colors such as brown and gray
BROWN GRAY
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Chapter 12 Makeup Makeup Design Pages 409-410
The Color Wheel Tool in which the 12 colors (3 primary, 3 secondary and six tertiary colors) are
positioned in a circle; position on the wheel demonstrates the relationship of each
color to the primary colors
Complementary n Use colors that are across from each other on the color wheel in order to
Color Schemes
achieve the greatest amount of contrast
n Makeup artists often use complementary color schemes to enhance eye color
Color Vocabulary Hue is another name for color
Tint is a hue with white added
Shade is a hue with black added
Value is the lightness or darkness of a color
Intensity refers to the vibrancy of a color
Tone refers to the warmth or coolness of a color
Warm and Cool n Terms used to describe the tones of colors
n Warm colors contain red or yellow undertones; found in the orange and
red half on the color wheel
n Cool colors contain blue undertones; grouped as blue and green on the color wheel
n Yellow-green and red-violet can be considered either warm or cool
depending on whether there’s more pigment from the cool side of the color
wheel or the warm side
n Colors that are a combination of warm and light are considered neutral
n Skin tones as well as cosmetics are classified into 3 categories; warm, cool or neutral
Monochromatic Color schemes that use the same color with variations in value and intensity
throughout the entire makeup design
Analogous Color schemes that use three colors that are adjacent to each other on the
color wheel; combinations of these colors are often used for daytime makeup designs
Triadic Color schemes that use three colors
located in a triangular position on the
color wheel; more dramatic than
Yellow Yello
n
ree w-O
w-G ran
llo ge
Ye
Or
e n
an
Gre
monochromatic and analogous; used for

ge
COOL COLORS
WARM COLORS
Blue-Green
Red-Orange
more vibrant effects

e
Re
Blu
t e Re
iol d-V
e-V iole
Blu t
Violet
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M 2
Identify the seven face shapes and the corrective steps
to create the illusion of the classic oval shape
n Facial Shapes Most corrective makeup and contouring are still done to achieve the illusion of
and Features an oval face; face shapes other than the classic oval include:
– Round – Pear – Heart
– Oblong – Square – Diamond
Contour n To create an outline, especially of a curving or irregular figure or shape

n Dark colors appear to recede, define and diminish the appearance of features
or areas, e.g., a wider nose can appear thinner by applying darker tones to
the sides of the nose
n Lighter colors appear to enhance features, making features or areas appear
larger, e.g., highlighting the receding areas of a weak chin can make it seem
more prominent
n Heightening the contrasts between lighter and darker tones can create
more definition
Cosmetic n Most cosmetic products commonly used to contour include, powders,

Products liquids and crèmes
n Powders create a matte, or dull, finish; liquids and crèmes create a shiny
finish (glowing)
n Oily skin types usually look best when powders are used; dry skin types
benefit from the moisturizing properties found in liquid or
crème foundations
Chiaroscuro Art of arranging light and dark so as to produce three dimensional shapes;
practiced when working with different values within makeup designs
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Face Shapes Notes:
Esthetic
Considerations
Oval
Face
Round
Most symmetric
and balanced; Face
represents the
Oblong
ideal; can be visibly Rounded hairline (Long)
divided into equal and chin-line; width
thirds; the width of Face
is generally broader
one eye exists in proportion to Long and narrow;
between eyes length; goal is to apply deeper tones Pear-
diminish the fullness under chin and at Shaped
of the jaw hairline and
temples; emphasize Face
horizontal lines Narrow forehead
in brow, lips and and wide jawline;
cheeks; add width highlight forehead to
Square add width; contour
Face bottom of face to
reduce width; deepen
Heart- natural fullness on
Broad, straight sides of face
forehead and Shaped
hairline with a broad, Face
square jawline;
contour to soften Wider forehead with
narrow jawline; Diamond-
angles and reduce Shaped
width; shade directly minimize width of
forehead by Face
below cheekbones to
reduce width contouring along
temples Predominant width
through cheekbones;
narrow forehead and
chin and jaw area;
contour to minimize
width at points of
forehead and chin
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Eyebrow Design n Eyebrow should extend on a diagonal line from the outside corner of the
nostril to the outside corner of the eye
n Well-shaped eyebrows give balance to the face
Esthetic Considerations
No Eyebrows Make the face appear expressionless
Thin, Sculpted Eyebrows Give the face an over-dramatized look and make the eyes appear close-set
Classic Eyebrows Provide balance and symmetry
Horizontal Eyebrows Create a sad and worried look when raised in the center and slanted on the ends
Thin, High Eyebrows Narrow the forehead and create a surprised look
Full Eyebrows Accentuates the qualities of the line and position in which they are created
Natural Eyebrows Diminish the browbone and close off the eyes with stray, natural hairs
Eyes
Deep-Set Eyes Require very little contouring; light and bright shadows help bring
recessed area forward
Drooping Eyes Lifted by applying darker shadows and eyeliners that move in an upward motion
away from the outer edges of the eyes; eyeliner on top and bottom should connect
Almond Eyes Classic eye shape; enhanced by defining the natural shape with a smudgy eyeliner
application over the entire upper and lower lids; applying neutral shadow on
the lids into the natural fold adds structure
Wide-Set Eyes Concentrate and blend shadows and eyeliners near the inner corners of the
eyes and softly blend toward the bridge of the nose to help eyes appear deeper
and closer together
Close-Set Eyes Can be drawn toward the outer areas of the face by applying eyeliner to the
outer edges of the top and bottom lids and extending the lines outward;
leaving the inner corners void of heavy color leaves the area lighter and brighter
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Small Eyes Benefit from brighter colors and soft shading of the upper and lower lids to offer
definition; contouring above the natural eyelid crease creates an open feeling
Bulging Eyes Contour or shade the protruding lid area; line the lower lids with a very deep
eyeliner; line the top of the eyelid with the same color and connect at the inner
corners; grade shadow from dark at the lids to light as browbone is approached;
blend in horizontal manner
Asian Eyes Add a deep eyeliner along the base of the lashline; apply thicker eyeliner at the
outer edges
Hooded Eyes Enhanc by causing the fleshy areas of the upper lids to recede by using
medium shading color in the inner eye area; blend color up into the inner portion
of the eyebrows; balance and add contour to the outer portion of the eyebrows;
use a deep contouring shadow to push back the outer edges and the upper
portion of the eyebrow skin; line the outer edges of the upper and lower lids
Lips
Full Top Lips Line the upper lip slightly inside the natural shape to balance the heaviness
of the top lip with lower lip
Uneven Lips Compensate on either side of the lip shape by creating an asymmetrical
line on the side you choose to match
Downturned Lips Create a line that extends just above the natural fall of the lips, toward the
outer corners of the lips
Small Lips Enlarge the appearance by outlining the lips just past the outer edge of the
natural lipline
Thin Lips Create a fuller appearance by drawing a line beyond the natural fullness of
the lip; create a higher point at the bow of the upper lip and center of the
lower lip
Full Lips Reduce fullness by lining the upper and lower lips inside the natural lipline
Full Bottom Lips Balance the lips by extending beyond the natural upper lipline; draw a
lipline that is within the natural lower lipline to create symmetry and balance
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M 3 Explain the guidelines for makeup design including products,

techniques and considerations
n Makeup Products
and Techniques Appropriate lighting is an important aspect of professional makeup
Combine Fluorescent and Fluorescent lighting is composed of blue and green light which can be
Incandescent Lighting deceiving because it accentuates blue or green undertones and cancels out
warmer tones; incandescent lighting is composed of red and yellow light;
combination of both incandescent and fluorescent lighting works best
Principles of Light Light highlights attractive features or areas; dark diminishes features that are
and Dark
less attractive; glossy products enhance while matte (dull) products diminish
Brushes Provide better control and can be used effectively to blend colors and soften
or smudge hard edges; help to avoid lines of demarcation
Makeup Guidelines Include properly preparing the skin by cleansing, exfoliating (when
necessary), toning and moisturizing
Position of Client Position client’s face at a height that is comfortable to see and reach; chair should
not recline more than a 45 degree angle to avoid flattening the appearance of
client’s face and causing overhead lights to eliminate natural face shadows
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Foundation Used to correct undesirable skin tones such as sallowness or redness,

conceal imperfections in the skin and
may provide protection if sunscreen Liquid
is included in product n Most common form of
foundation
n Generally preferred because
4 Forms of
they offer sheer, natural
Foundation Crème-to-powder or Powder coverage
n Known also as “one-step” or
Crème-to-Powder n Easy to apply and blend
“dual-finish”products
n Two basic formulas – oil-free,
n Contain both makeup base water-based formulas for oily
Liquid and powder in one product complexions and oil-based
n Provide minimum coverage moisturizing formula for
and create a natural effect dryer skin
Crème Pancake, Pan-stick or

Crème
n Heavier consistency Greasepaint
n Used when additional n Oil-based; used when very

Pancake, Pan-stick coverage is desired heavy coverage is needed
or Greasepaint n Require more blending than n Maximum coverage
liquid foundations due to foundation that can be applied
thicker consistency with a damp or dry sponge
n Used primarily for
photography and theater or
minor corrections such as
scars or birthmarks
Foundation Factors to consider when selecting a foundation:

Selection n Skin type/condition
Considerations
n Level of coverage
n Type of finish required
n Time of day
n Time of year
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Skin Type/Condition Liquid foundations for most skin types; water-based or oil-free liquids for clients with
oily skin; oil-based or moisturizing liquids for clients with dry skin or mature skin
Level of Coverage Light coverage for daily wear; heavier coverage to mask imperfections or for photos
Type of Finish Required Generally a matte finish is most flattering; certain fashions may dictate a glossy or
shimmering finish
Time of Day Sheer foundations (light coverage) look best during the day; heavier finish may be
used for evening when lights are more dim
Time of Year Weather conditions affect choice; lightweight in summer with a heavier
foundation in the winter to offer protection from the environment and moisture
Matching the n Foundation is matched to the skin tone generally
Foundation
Considerations n Common mistake is incorrect match of skin tone and foundation
n Try to match foundation in natural daylight if at all possible
n Correct foundation shade will “disappear” into the skin
n Skin on the neck is generally lighter than on the face; best foundation
choice is a balance between both
n Undertone of client’s skin will become evident; if the wrong shade has been
applied the skin will appear too warm or too cool, compared to the bare skin
LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Skin Tone Classifications
1. Light Creamy Light, yellow 5. Olive Yellowish-green

Skin tones can be
to slightly peach undertone color
classified as warm and
cool in light, medium
and dark. Seven 6. Brown Usually olive-toned;
2. Golden Yellow cast;
common categories medium dark and may be
light to golden tone if
found on page 421 of classified as having red or
tanned
your textbook are listed yellow undertones
to the right. Using
colored pencils, shade 7. Ebony Dark to very dark;
the boxes found to the 3. Pink Pink or blue to red
mahogany and/or blue
left of each classification undertones
undertones
to create a display of
skin tones. 4. Tan Carmel-colored light
to dark brown; undertone
can be red or yellow
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Concealer Helps correct particular facial imperfections such as under-eye circles,

Considerations broken capillaries, blemishes and dark, shadowed areas of the face
Types of Concealer n Available in crème, liquid, stick and pot formulations

n Crème and liquid concealers provide light to medium coverage
n Stick concealers provide medium to heavy coverage and pot concealers
provide the heaviest
Selecting a Goal is to neutralize the undesired color rather than to lighten or cover it
Concealer
Choose a complementary color as the concealer to achieve a neutral look
Powder n Used to set the foundation, concealer and other makeup products so they
Considerations don’t fade, streak or rub off
n Used to reduce the appearance of shine on the skin
n Applied before powdered products such as blush or contouring and shading
products; clients desiring the sheerest coverage wear powder alone
n Applied after liquid or crème products such as foundation or crème blushes
Types of Powder Most common forms of powder are loose and pressed; both forms can be
found in translucent (colorless) and tinted (colored) shades
Translucent powder may be combined with any foundation shade (allows
skin and foundation shade to show through)
Tinted powders usually coordinate with matching foundations
Eyebrow Color n Used to shade or fill in eyebrows with colored powders or pencils
Considerations n Match eyebrow color to hair color as closely as possible (brown well-suited
for most eyebrows)

n Six basic eyebrow shapes are: round, angled, soft-angled, curved, flat,
squared, and high arch
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2/3
Proportions of the 1/3
Eye Area
Well-spaced eyes have the width of one eye between them

“Close-set” eyes have a space of less than the width of one eye between them
“Wide-set” eyes have a space greater than the width of one eye
Eye Shadow n Available in crayon, gel, powder and pencil; also available in stick and
Considerations
crème forms (which may contain a petrolatum base)
n Used to create more contour or exaggerate areas such as the eye crease
n Daytime shadows include neutrals such as beige, taupe, soft gray and
light brown
n Evening shadows are deeper or more intense colors
Eyeliner n Used to accent and emphasize the shape and size of the eyes and to enhance
Considerations the thickness of the lashes
n Available types include liquid, pencil and powder forms
n Pencil eyeliner offers the most control
n Powder eyeliner results in the softest line
n Dramatic lines such as those achieved with liquid eyeliner may not always be
as flattering and appear strong
Mascara n Defines, lengthens and thickens the eyelashes

Considerations n Available in liquid, cake and crème forms; applied to upper and lower lashes
n Infection control practices require the use of disposable mascara wands
n Eyelash curler may be used prior to the application of mascara to help make
the eyes appear more open
n Eyelash separator or comb can be used after applying mascara to avoid a
clumpy look
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Artificial Eyelash Used to thicken eyelashes that are sparse

Considerations
Available in strip or individual lashes
Measuring Eyelashes Align the strip at the beginning of the lashline closest to the nose and extend
for Eye Length to the end of the client’s outer lashes
Cut the outer end of the eyelash strip on an angle so it follows the diagonal of
the natural lashline; trimming may be necessary to achieve the desired length
Blush Also called rouge or cheek color; used to add color to the face, especially
Considerations in the cheek area
Can be used to add shape to the face
Types of Blush Available in liquid, crème, gel and powder forms

Crème and gel forms are applied before powder
Powdered blush is applied after facial powder and is preferred on oily skin
Selecting a Blush Lightness or darkness of client’s skin will determine the depth of the blush color
Blush should coordinate with the tones of the rest of the makeup application
Apply to the apple of the cheek (fleshy part of the cheek)
Soften blush application by applying translucent powder over the cheek color
and blending with a clean makeup sponge
Lip Color Soft natural look in lip color is preferred, especially for daytime looks
Considerations Fashion may call for stronger lip design at certain times, but overall the
makeup application should remain proportionally balanced
Applied to the outer edge of the lips to define the shape of the lips and to
Lip Liner
prevent lipstick from “bleeding” onto the skin around the mouth
Also used to visually correct imperfections in lip shape
Apply lip primer to help lip liner go on more smoothly, bring out the true
color of lips and prevent lip liner and lip color from bleeding
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Lip Color n Purpose of lip color is to complete the balance of color; should not
overpower the amount of color applied to cheeks and eyes
n Used to correct the shape and size of the mouth to make it more
proportionate with the rest of the facial features
n Apply foundation to the lips to block out the natural lipline so a new one
can be created
Types of Available in tube, stick, wand and gloss forms; most common is lipstick
Lip Color
Best applied with a lip brush
Comes in many formulas, including crème, sheer, satin and matte
Lip glosses tend to have less of a concentration of color than lipsticks
and are soothing for dry, chapped lips due to their moisturizing properties
LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Lips: Front and Side Views
The guidelines found on page 431 of your textbook outline the ideal mouth and lips. In the space provided
below, draw a frontal view and a side view of the lip to represent these guidelines.
Side View
Frontal View
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Makeup
Considerations
Makeup for Teenagers Education is a primary concern for teenage clients
In many cases oil-free and/or acne treatment formulas for cleansing,

toning and moisturizing will be recommended
Because teenage skin tends to be oily, liquid foundations that are extremely
sheer and natural-looking are usually a good recommendation
Makeup for Men Men lack knowledge of what might be possible for them in the area of skin care
Provide thorough education on product application
Male esthetic market is growing
Most men are interested in very simple skin care regimens such as bronzers,
concealers and lip balms
Apply and recommend products that appear as natural as possible
n
M 4
Makeup Essentials
Identify and demonstrate the appropriate use of the essentials of makeup,
infection control and safety guidelines and the client consultation
Makeup products must be frequently replaced to ensure optimum

sanitation and safety
Before beginning any makeup service, be sure that you have all of the proper skin
care and makeup products needed to perform the ideal makeup application
Have a variety of makeup application tools available
Makeup Products Cleanser/makeup remover removes dirt, makeup and impurities

Toner purifies and balances skin pH levels
Moisturizer replenishes moisture or oil; protects skin
Eye crème supports, moisturizes and cushions tissue around the eyes
Exfoliator removes excess surface skin cells
Concealer eliminates discolorations; diminishes the appearance of blemishes
Foundation creates an even skin tone and uniform surface
Blush adds color or contour/shaping
Eyeliner accentuates and defines the shape of the eyes
Eye shadow accentuates shape and color of the eye; contours/shades
Eyebrow pencil/powder fills in, defines and/or corrects shape of eyebrows
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Makeup Products Mascara defines, lengthens and thickens the eyelashes

continued
Lip liner defines natural or corrected shape of the lips
Lip color adds color and texture to the lips
Lip gloss adds high shine and fullness
n Infection Control Use disposable applicators whenever possible and discard after each use
and Safety Guidelines Avoid using products directly from containers
Sharpen all pencils with a sanitized sharpener, or if self-sharpening, spray with alcohol
Remove products if client shows any signs of allergic reaction
Avoid excess pressure in and around the eye area
Exercise extra precautions to avoid getting products or implements in the eyes
Implements must be disinfected or discarded after each use
Determine exact nature of client’s needs such as wedding, first makeup service, etc.
n Client Consultation
1. Greet 2. Ask, Analyze, Assess 3. Agreement
5 Phases of Service
4. Delivery 5. Completion
Think of people you have seen wearing makeup

and then later not wearing makeup. What are the
differences you notice when makeup is not worn?
LEARNING C ON N E C T I ON Know Your Brushes
Being able to reach for the right brush will be important as you offer makeup services in the future. Identify the brush
pictured below by placing the name of the brush on the line to the right of the corresponding letter shown above the brush.
A. Large powder or dome brush H. Angled brush
B. Contour/shading brush I. Detail angled brush
C. Medium chisel brush J. Lip brush
D. Large blending brush K. Large camouflage brush
E. Medium fluff brush L. Eyelash separator
F. Small fluff brush M. Fan brush
G. Small chisel brush N. Sponge
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Chapter 12 Makeup Makeup Services Pages 441-453
M 5 Demonstrate the ability to perform basic makeup procedures

and recognize the considerations for specialty makeup
Preparing the Skin Think of the face as a canvas; clean and receptive to color; cleanse, tone and
moisturize the skin; avoid facial waxing to prevent redness or irritation
Basic Makeup For daytime and evening makeup procedures, see rubrics that follow these SmartNotes
Procedures
Makeup n Be careful to not go too dark or too cool in color selections

Considerations for n Darker skin types can carry off more color than lighter skin colors
Darker Skin
n Pay extra attention to foundation color choices; even out larger areas of
hyperpigmentation by using concealer
n Select warm, yellow-based products to avoid an ashy or bluish-gray image
n Concentrate more on highlighting aspects because contouring shades may
not show up well
n Use brown, dark brown or black eyebrow pencils to create a softer effect
n Consider applying artificial, individual lashes or eyelash strips in addition to
mascara to create balance for the eyes – if the eyelashes are excessively curly
Makeup n Avoid using makeup colors that are too cool which can make the client’s
Considerations for
skin appear pink or ashy; opt for yellow-based foundations and cosmetic colors
Asian Skin
n Asian hair tends to be straight and strong, which sometimes results in
eyebrows that tend to grow in a downward direction
n Select cool or ash-toned pencils or powders for eyebrows and avoid colors that
contain red or orange; eyebrow color should be in the same range as the hair color
n Apply light eye shadow over the entire lid if the client has deep-set eyes and
desires a rounder-looking shape
n Add bottom mascara only to the outer edges of the eyelashes
n Use an eyelash conditioner if eyelashes are extremely straight; use eyelash
curler prior to applying mascara
n Select clear cheek and lip colors; avoid shades with brown or cool undertones,
which appear muddy on Asian skin tones
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Chapter 12 Makeup Makeup Services Pages 454-456
Makeup n Mature skin may show years of exposure to sun and the environment
Considerations for
resulting in hyperpigmentation, fine lines and creases; skin texture
Mature Skin
becomes thinner and more opaque
n Use gentle cleansing and toning products followed by rich moisturizers
n Prepare mature skin with extra-emollient hydration products; prepare
and hydrate the eye area with a rich eye crème
n Choose a foundation that is slightly deeper than the natural skin tone;
blend foundation with a damp sponge
n Opt for powders rather than pencils for a softer, more natural effect
Makeup n Schedule a consultation and makeup run-through well before the wedding day
Considerations for
n Try to book the consultation on the same day as a fitting for her gown so
Bridal Makeup
all details are fresh
n Application needs to last throughout the entire day and/or evening
with minimal upkeep
n Be aware that wearing white, ivory or other light colors may have a draining
effect on the skin
n Specialty Makeup Camouflage, corrective, airbrushing and permanent makeup
Camouflage n Objective is to normalize the appearance of clients or patients who have

Makeup experienced disfigurement from surgery, an accident, disease or a
Considerations
congenital condition
n Be willing to learn proper documentation methods to communicate with
medical community
n Camouflage experts work with the following types of client needs:
- Post burn injury survivors - Patients with scarring due to lacerations
- Cancer survivors - Patients with dermatologic conditions
- Patients with congenital lesions - Patients with HIV and AIDS
- Patients with birthmarks - Post-surgical patients
n Goal is to educate clients to apply their own makeup every day
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Product Knowledge Recommended to have 3 types of products on hand

1. Crème that is oily, light and less opaque
2. Waxy and opaque preparation
3. Powdery, talc-based product
Cystic acne – increase coverage by stippling over areas needing additional coverage
Port wine stain – apply camouflage crème first for obliteration
(total blocking of color)
Additional Training Medical boards in various states or regions offer certification in camouflage makeup
Required
Additional training in areas of conditions of the skin, art, makeup, medical
esthetics, theatrical makeup and fundamentals of psychology with an
emphasis on post-traumatic conditions
Corrective Makeup Use of makeup to change the size, shape or emphasis of a particular feature or
Considerations
characteristic that a client doesn’t like or wants to de-emphasize
Eyelash/Eyebrow Involves darkening eyebrows and eyelashes with a semi-permanent tint product
Tinting Tinting procedure takes approximately 30 minutes to perform; processes
15 to 20 minutes
Applied with a small, spool-type brush; lasts six to eight weeks
Product Knowledge Essential to use aniline-free tinting products
Airbrushing Application technique that allows greater control over the amount of
pigment being applied
Pigment is applied by a stream of air that pushes pigment out of a gun-like
implement with use of a compressor
Permanent Makeup Involves the placement of colorants into the skin for the purpose of cosmetic
enhancement, medical correction and/or esthetic restoration
Proper infection control is critical with permanent makeup since the skin
is invaded; safety and sanitation practices are critical
Requires specialized training and products
Makeup trends and colors quite often change

with the fashion seasons. How can you stay
abreast of current makeup trends and colors?
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MATCHING
Column A Column B
A. Secondary colors D Three pure colors
Represented as a wider forehead with a narrow jaw

B. Tint N and chinline
C. Monochromatic color schemes I Refers to the vibrancy of a color
To create an outline, especially of a curving or

D. Primary colors J
irregular figure or shape
E. Value A Orange, green and violet
Represented as predominant width through the

F. Triadic color schemes L cheekbones that is contrasted by a narrow forehead,
chin and jaw area
G. Tertiary colors K Refers to the warmth or coolness of a color
Use three colors that are adjacent to each other on the

H. Chiaroscuro M
color wheel
I. Intensity O A hue with black added
J. Contour B A hue with white added
K. Tone C Use the same color with variations in value and

intensity throughout the entire makeup design
L. Diamond-shaped face G Result of mixing primary colors with their

neighboring secondary color in varying proportions
M. Analog color schemes F Use three colors located in a triangular position on

the color wheel
N. Heart-shaped face E The lightness or darkness of a color
O. Shade H The art of arranging light and dark so as to produce

three dimensional shapes
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Basic Daytime Makeup Procedure
Rubric Assessment
The basic daytime makeup procedure is a service designed to enhance the visual appearance of your client. By
following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you will be prepared to offer a basic daytime makeup procedure
for your clients. Note that the numbers for each step correspond with the step-by-step technical images found
in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
n Set up makeup station and arrange products,
implements, supplies and equipment in a neat,
organized manner; sanitize service area; check lighting
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
PREPARE SKIN
3. Apply lightweight cleanser
4. Apply toner
5. Apply moisturizer
6. Apply eye crème
7. Assess face shape and skin tone
GROOM EYEBROWS
8. Determine natural growth direction
9. Tweeze stray hairs
FOUNDATION and CONCEALER
10. Select appropriate foundation color
11. Apply and blend foundation
12. Apply concealer as needed
POWDER
13. Apply loose powder
14. Blend away excess powder
EYEBROW COLOR
15. Select and apply eyebrow color
16. Blend eyebrow color
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Basic Daytime Makeup Procedure
Teacher
EYE SHADOW
17. Apply highlighter
18. Apply contour color
EYELINER and MASCARA
19. Curl eyelashes
20. Apply eyeliner
21. Blend eyeliner
22. Apply mascara
LIP COLOR
23. Apply lip liner
24. Fill lips with lip liner
25. Apply and blend lip color
BLUSH
26. Apply blush
27. Blend powder over edges of blush
COMPLETION
n Lead client to front counter; offer to rebook client’s
next visit; recommend retail; throw away non-reusable
materials; replace used linens; disinfect implements
and facial bed; arrange items for next service; wash
hands with liquid antibacterial soap; place unused
cotton pads and sponges in covered container
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Basic Evening Makeup Procedure
Rubric Assessment
The basic evening makeup procedure is service designed to enhance the visual appearance of your client. By
following and practicing the steps in this rubric, you will be prepared to offer a basic evening makeup procedure
for your clients. Note that the numbers for each step correspond with the step-by-step technical images found
in the textbook.
Teacher
PREPARATION
n Set up makeup station and arrange products,
implements, supplies and equipment in a neat,
organized manner; sanitize service area; check lighting
PROCEDURE
2. Drape client
PREPARE SKIN
3. Apply lightweight cleanser
4. Apply toner
5. Apply moisturizer
6. Apply eye crème
7. Assess face shape and skin tone
GROOM EYEBROWS
8. Determine natural growth direction
9. Tweeze stray hairs
FOUNDATION and CONCEALER

10. Select appropriate foundation color
11. Apply and blend foundation
12. Apply concealer as needed
POWDER
13. Apply loose powder
14. Blend away excess powder
EYEBROW COLOR
15. Select and apply eyebrow color
16. Blend eyebrow color
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Basic Evening Makeup Procedure
Teacher
EYE SHADOW
17. Apply highlighter using a bright, slightly luminized

eye shadow
18. Apply contour color; use darker crease color across

contour of the eye socket
EYELINER and MASCARA
19. Curl eyelashes
20. Apply black pencil eyeliner
21. Blend eyeliner; add black liquid eyeliner to

increase intensity
22. Apply mascara; consider applying artificial strip

or individual lashes
LIP COLOR
23. Apply lip liner using a deeper shade than
daytime makeup
24. Fill lips with lip liner
25. Apply and blend lip color; use a high shine,
metallic gloss
BLUSH
26. Apply blush; blend a highlighter crème to the cheekbone
27. Blend powder over edges of blush
COMPLETION
n Lead client to front counter; offer to rebook client’s
next visit; recommend retail; throw away non-reusable
materials; replace used linens; disinfect implements
and facial bed; arrange items for next service; wash
hands with liquid antibacterial soap; place unused cotton
pads and sponges in covered container
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1. Enhancing the Pear-Shaped Face

In the ‘before’ box to the left, a
BEFORE AFTER
pear-shaped face has been placed.
Using colored pencils, apply your
skill in the box marked ‘after’ to
show how you would enhance the
pear-shaped face when doing a
daytime makeup application.
Discuss your final sketch with a

partner or other classmates.
2. Enhancing the Square-Shaped Face

In the ‘before’ box to the left a
BEFORE AFTER
square-shaped face has been placed.
Using colored pencils, apply your
skill in the box marked ‘after’ to
show how you would enhance the
square-shaped face when doing a
daytime makeup application.
Discuss your final sketch with a

partner or other classmates.
3. Enhancing Your Own Makeup

On the lines provided to the left,
jot down some notes that describe
what you feel you could do
differently to update or freshen
your makeup application.
Discuss your conclusions with

a partner.
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THE CHALLENGE 1. TRUE FALSE The law of color states that, out of all the colors in the universe, only
five are pure.
well you know your new The law of color states that, out of all the colors in the universe, only three are pure.
2. TRUE FALSE The three secondary colors are orange, green and violet.
the Memory Box that
Look up each answer on 3. Warm colors contain red or yellow undertones while cool colors contain
the corresponding page in blue undertones.
the Salon Fundamentals™ 4. Which of the following statements describes the term shade?
Esthetics textbook. Check a. another term for color
“got it” for all correct b. hue with black added
c. a hue with white added
d. the vibrancy of a color
Using the “Know Chart,” 5. Monochromatic color schemes use:
record all of your correct a. three colors located in a triangular position on the color wheel
b. three colors that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel
responses in the “I
c. three colors that are across from each other on the color wheel
Know” column. After d. the same color with variations in value and intensity throughout
6. Tone refers to the:
a. hue of a color
b. warmth or coolness of a color
“I Need to Study” column. c. amount of black and white in a color
That way you know exactly d. amount of lightness or darkness of a color
7. Which of the following facial shapes has been considered the ideal or classical shape?
continuing in this Guide. a. oval
b. heart
Directions: Identify c. square
whether questions 1 and d. diamond
8. Which of the following techniques would be used to create a longer look on a round face?
circling TRUE or FALSE. a. blend highlighting down from the cheekbone
You can earn an extra b. blend contouring down from the cheekbone
point for each false c. highlight the lower portion of the face to diminish fullness
statement you d. highlight the lower portion of the face to emphasize fullness
appropriately correct. 9. All of the following are characteristics of the diamond-shaped face EXCEPT:
Question 3 requires you a. narrow forehead
to write in an answer b. broad, square jawline
in the blank provided. c. narrow chin and jaw area
Answers to the questions d. predominant width through the cheekbones
found in 4 through 10 10. Which of the following is NOT a characteristic of the pear-shaped face?
may be selected by a. wide jawline
circling a, b, c or d below b. narrow forehead
c. the width is 3/4 its length
d. forehead is smaller than the jaw area
your choice.
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o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
It is important to identify both the facial shape and the undertone color of the skin in order to determine the
appropriate techniques and/or colors or shades to use during a daytime makeup application. In the chart
below, the facial shape and undertone have been identified. Write in the primary technique you would use
during a makeup application for this client, along with the description of the shade or color you would apply.
Facial Shape Undertone Primary Technique Appropriate Color
Diamond Blue/violet Contour through the cheek area Light peach
Heart Red Highlight the jawline; contour the forehead Yellow
Square Brown/gray Shade the area below the cheekbones Medium peach
and blend toward the center of the jawline
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knowledge grid
of Chapter 12, Makeup. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and
Define the triadic color scheme.

KNOW
A triadic color scheme uses three colors located in a triangular position on the color wheel.
Explain why it is important for you to have an understanding of secondary and tertiary colors.
COMPREHEND
It is important for an esthetician to have an understanding of secondary and tertiary colors in order to select
and recommend the appropriate color options for clients requesting makeup services.
Demonstrate your knowledge of the color wheel by identifying

APPLY the primary, secondary and tertiary colors. You can place the 12 1
color name on the corresponding numbered lines to the left of 11 2
the color wheel. Number 1 has been completed as an example.
10 3
1. Yellow 5. Red 9. Blue

9 4
2. Yellow-Orange 6. Red-Violet 10. Blue-Green
3. Orange 7. Violet 11. Green 8 5
4. Red-Orange 8. Blue-Violet 12. Yellow-Green 7 6
Compare the characteristics of a heart-shaped face with that of a diamond-shaped face.

ANALYZE
A heart-shaped face consists of a wider forehead while a diamond-shaped face has a narrow forehead. The
heart-shaped and diamond-shaped faces have similar, narrow chin and jaw areas.
Create an advertising slogan or promotional statement for a makeup trend that features
SYNTHESIZE a bright red lip color.
A sample response for a name of a makeup trend featuring bright red lip color could be “Visible.”
EVALUATE Defend the importance of infection control regulations when performing permanent
makeup techniques.
A sample defense statement may cite the need for infection control regulations based on the fact that there is an
invasion or puncture of the skin that occurs as colorants are placed into the skin.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. The law of color states that, out of all the colors in the universe, only:
a. one color is pure
b. two colors are pure
c. three colors are pure
d. secondary colors are pure
2. Which of the following is NOT a primary color?

a. red
b. blue
c. yellow
d. green
3. Orange, green and violet are called:

a. pure colors
b. primary colors
c. tertiary colors
d. secondary colors
4. All of the following are true about primary colors EXCEPT:

a. they are also called pure colors
b. they cannot be created by combining other colors
c. when mixed together in varying proportions, they produce three tertiary colors
d. when mixed together in varying proportions, primary colors create all other colors
5. Mixing a primary color with a neighboring secondary color in varying proportions will produce a:
a. pure color
b. tertiary color
c. secondary color
d. monochromatic color
6. What color scheme is used most often to enhance eye color?

a. triadic
b. analog
c. monochromatic
d. complementary
7. The lightness or darkness of a color is called:

a. hue
b. tint
c. value
d. shade
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Brain Conditioners
8. What do the terms warm and cool describe about a color?

a. hue
b. tint
c. tone
d. shade
9. All of the following are true about warm colors EXCEPT they:
a. contain blue undertones
b. contain red or yellow undertones
c. are used to describe the tones of colors
d. are generally categorized in the orange and red half of the color wheel
10. Tones that are a combination of warm and light are considered:
a. cool colors
b. warm colors
c. neutral colors
d. complementary colors
11. All of the following statements are true about contouring EXCEPT:
a. it can appear to reshape the face
b. it can add illusion of increased dimension to the face
c. dark colors appear to diminish the appearance of features
d. lighter colors make features or areas appear smaller
12. In order to add dimension to an oblong face, a hint of contour should be added directly:
a. below the cheekbone
b. above the jawline and eye area
c. above the cheekbone and blended down the face
d. below the forehead and blending toward the eye area
13. What facial shape has a narrow forehead and a wide jawline?
a. oval
b. oblong
c. pear-shaped
d. heart-shaped
14. Which of the following is NOT a characteristic of the square face shape?
a. broad, square jawline
b. most symmetric and balanced
c. broad, straight forehead and hairline
d. very angular and somewhat masculine
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Brain Conditioners
15. A heart-shaped face is characterized by:

a. a rounded hairline and chin line
b. a narrow forehead and a wide jawline
c. a wider forehead with a narrow jaw and chinline
d. predominant width through the cheekbones contrasted by a narrow forehead, chin and jaw area
16. Which facial shape requires contouring to reduce the high points of the forehead and the extended
portion of the chin to create balance?
a. round
b. square
c. oblong
d. diamond
17. What is the result created by thin, sculpted arches when doing eyebrow design?
a. expressionless face
b. over-dramatized look
c. balance and symmetry
d. narrow forehead and surprised look
18. Which of the following eyebrow designs provides balance and symmetry?
a. full arches
b. missing arches
c. classic arches
d. horizontal arches
19. Defining the natural shape with a smudgy eyeliner application over the entire upper and lower lids
enhances the:
a. almond eyes
b. wide-set eyes
c. drooping eyes
d. close-set eyes
20. Full top lips can be corrected by drawing a line:

a. just past the outer edge of the natural lipline
b. extending just above the natural fall of the lips
c. slightly inside the natural shape of the upper lip
d. slightly outside the natural shape of the upper and lower lip
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Brain Conditioners
21. Drawing a line beyond the natural fullness of the lip creates a fuller appearance for:
a. thin lips
b. uneven lips
c. full bottom lips
d. downturned lips
22. Which of the following is NOT a benefit of using a brush?

a. blending colors
b. softening or smudging hard edges
c. providing better directional control
d. making hard edges evident on face or neck
23. When applying makeup design, the facial chair should not recline more than:
a. 15°
b. 25°
c. 35°
d. 45°
24. The most common form of foundation generally preferred because of its sheer, natural
coverage, easy application and blending is called:
a. crème
b. liquid
c. powder
d. pancake
25. Which type of foundation is suitable for most skin types?

a. liquid
b. powder
c. pancake
d. greasepaint
26. Unless correction is required, the general guideline is to match the foundation to the:
a. clothing
b. eye color
c. skin tone
d. hair color
27. The skin on the neck is generally lighter than the skin on the face, so the best foundation choice:
a. matches the skin on the neck
b. matches the skin on the face
c. is a balance between these two areas
d. appears darker than the skin on both the face and neck
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Brain Conditioners
28. A golden skin tone has:

a. yellow cast
b. yellowish-green color
c. carmel-colored light to dark brown
d. light yellow to slightly peach undertone
29. Which of the following is considered a warm undertone?

a. red
b. light peach
c. light brown
d. yellowish-green
30. A translucent powder may be combined with any foundation shade since it is designed to allow the
skin and foundation shade to show through without adding any:
a. color
b. powder
c. concealer
d. foundation
31. Which of the following is NOT one of the six basic eyebrow shapes?
a. bowed
b. tipped
c. angled
d. squared
32. Before applying mascara, curl top lashes with an eyelash curler to create the illusion that the
eyes are opened and:
a. lifted up
b. pulled left
c. pulled right
d. pulled down
33. At least how many brushes should you have on hand when applying eye and cheek color?
a. one
b. two
c. three
d. four
34. The lip color should not overpower the amount of color applied to the:
a. nose and eyes
b. eyelids and eyes
c. cheeks and eyes
d. eyebrows and eyes
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Brain Conditioners
35. Which of the following products purifies and balances the pH level of the skin?
a. toner
b. exfoliator
c. eye crème
d. moisturizer
36. Which of the following products replenishes moisture or oil to the skin?
a. exfoliator
b. concealer
c. eye crème
d. moisturizer
37. Which of the following products removes excess surface skin cells?
a. blush
b. concealer
c. exfoliator
d. foundation
38. Which of the following makeup implements and/or supplies is used for cleaning
up and correcting errors?
a. cotton
b. headband
c. cotton swabs
d. hand sanitizer
39. Which of the following makeup implements and/or supplies cleanses, sanitizes and
maintains makeup brushes?
a. eyelash curler
b. brush cleaner
c. mascara wand
d. lash separator or comb
40. The makeup implement used to curl and enhance the lashes is a(n):
a. eyelash curler
b. mascara wand
c. makeup brush
d. lash separator
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41. Q: A:
42. Q: A:
43. Q: A:
BONUS QUESTION!
44. Q:
46. List the 3 primary colors, 3 secondary colors and 6 tertiary colors found on the color wheel.
Primary Colors Secondary Colors Tertiary Colors

n yellow n orange n yellow-green n blue-violet
n red n green n blue-green n red-violet
n blue n violet n yellow-orange n red-orange
47. List the seven facial shapes and draw a shape to represent each one.
Oval Round Oblong Pear-Shaped Square Heart-Shaped Diamond-Shaped
ESSAY QUESTION
48. In the space below identify at least two considerations for mature skin and two considerations for Asian skin.
Mature skin considerations Asian skin considerations
could include two of the following: could include two of the following:
Use gentle cleansing and toning products followed by Avoid using makeup colors that are too cool
rich moisturizers Select cool or ash-toned pencils or powders for eyebrows
Use extra-emollient hydration products Apply light eye shadow over the entire lid if the client has
Prepare and hydrate the eye area with a rich eye crème deep-set eyes
Choose a foundation that is slightly deeper than the Add bottom mascara only to the outer edges of the eyelashes
natural skin tone Use an eyelash conditioner if eyelashes are extremely straight
Opt for powders rather than pencils for a softer, more Select clear cheek and lip colors
natural effect Avoid shades with brown or cool undertones which appear
muddy on Asian skin tones
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1. page 409 21. page 417

2. page 409 22. page 418
3. page 409 23. page 418
4. page 409 24. page 419
5. page 409 25 page 419
6. page 410 26. page 420
7. page 410 27. page 420
8. page 410 28. page 421
9. page 410 29. page 421
10. page 410 30. page 423
11. page 411 31. page 424
12. page 412 32. page 427
13. page 413 33. page 430
14. page 413 34. page 431
15. page 413 35. page 435
16. page 413 36. page 435
17. page 414 37. page 435
18. page 414 38. page 437
19. page 415 39. page 437
20. page 417 40. page 437
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Makeup

things you found difficult to learn and suggestions
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13
ADVANCED TREATMENTS
VALUE MAIN IDEA
Not every esthetician knows how to provide Performing advanced face and body services
advanced treatments. These treatments are in takes skill. Some advanced treatments can
demand, and estheticians who learn how to be incorporated into basic services, but many
provide them can offer a broader spectrum of others require a specialized knowledge of
services to their clients, generate more anatomy and physiology and a thorough
revenue and experience greater success. understanding of the products and
ingredients used to perform the treatment.
This chapter serves as an introduction to
these advanced face and body treatments
and techniques.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
Advanced n Hand or Foot Treatments n Differentiate among the various face and
Face and n Body Scrubs body treatments used in the skin care
Body center and their specific contraindications.
n Body Wraps
Treatments
n Cellulite Wraps
n Water Therapy Treatments
n Superficial Chemical Peels
n Microdermabrasion
Advanced n Reflexology Treatments n Explain the difference between the various
Massage n Manual Lymphatic advanced massage techniques and their
Techniques Drainage Massage specific contraindications.
n Cellulite Massage
Treatments
Advanced n Phytotherapy n Describe the function and types of
Therapies n Aromatherapy advanced therapies that are available in the
esthetics setting.
n Algotherapy
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smartNOTES
Chapter 13 Advanced Treatments Advanced Face and Body Treatments Pages 465-469
M 1 Differentiate among the various face and body treatments used

skin care center and their specific contraindications
Prior to Any Treatment Proceed with caution and be aware of the contraindications
in the
n Contraindications for n Cuts, abrasions, wounds, n Circulatory conditions

Advanced Treatments active lesions, open sores n Diabetes
n Fungal infection n Cancer
n Sunburn n High blood pressure
n Rashes
Room Preparation When setting up the service space, consider these steps:
1. Gather implements, supplies, products and equipment
2. Disinfect service area implements and equipment
3. Set up facial bed with clean linens
4. Arrange products and tools within easy reach
5. Adjust temperature of the room, if needed
Hand or Foot Hand and foot “facials” use enzymes or fruit acids to brighten skin and fade age spots
Treatments
Contraindication for n Recent muscle sprain n Arthritis

Hand or Foot
Manual exfoliants
Treatments
Gomage n Contain coarse (grainy)
Body Scrubs n An exfoliating treatment in ingredients that rub against
which a layer of crème is dead skin cells, removing them
applied to the skin, allowed to from the epidermis
Gomage,
dry and is then rubbed away n Examples include salt or sugar
Manual Exfoliants
scrubs, synthetic micro-bead or
and Hand-Held
powdered pumice scrubs
Exfoliators Hand-held exfoliators
n Used on dry skin to apply cleanser to a particular
area of the face or body
n Examples include loofahs, body brushes,
sponges and wash cloths
Contraindications for n Arthritis

Body Scrubs n Osteoporosis
n Pregnant clients must be positioned lying on the side, not on the stomach
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smartNOTES
n Body Wraps Wraps create temporary tightness due to two principles: absorption and compaction
Absorption Compaction
Absorption and n When wrapped tightly, the body sweats, which n Bandages compact
Compaction º in turn causes the skin to lie flatter against the tissues after the
underlying muscle toxins and fluids
have been eliminated
n Wraps contain a blend of astringent, herbs,
essential oils, seaweed or clay n Gives the body a
leaner look
n Draws out and absorbs unwanted liquid
trapped in the body by increasing circulation n Benefits tend to be
and promoting elimination of toxins and cumulative
other fluids
Do not make specific weight or inch loss claims for body wraps
Contraindications for n Claustrophobia
Body Wraps n Hypertension
n Coronary conditions
n Pregnancy
n Cellulite Wraps Soften or even eliminate the appearance of cellulite by increasing circulation and
making skin look firmer
Cellulite Deposits of fat, water and waste materials trapped between skin fibers
Cellulite Treatments Cellulite treatments
First, the product causes the blood vessels to constrict and increases the
metabolism in the skin
Second, wrapping the body tightly promotes the removal of waste

materials, toxins and excess fluids
Inch loss from treatments is not permanent
Contraindications for n Osteoporosis

Cellulite Wraps n Pregnancy
n Autoimmune disorder
n Use of dietary supplements
n Excessive use of caffeine
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smartNOTES
n Water Therapy Prepares the skin and provides either an invigorating or calming
Treatments beginning to a body treatment
Hydrotherapy tub treatments Affusion therapy

Hydrotherapy Tub
Treatments First, a large tub is filled with First, the client lies on a
warm water treatment table while
showerheads are positioned
Affusion Therapy Then, custom blends of herbs, along the spine
seaweed and/or essential oils
are added Then, the client is sprayed with
water, seawater, or mineral water
Furthermore, a client can relax
while an esthetician performs a Furthermore, the water alternates
massage on specific body parts in pressure and temperature to
stimulate circulation and
promote relaxation
Saunas and Saunas and steam baths

Steam Baths
n Use warm steam to induce relaxation, expand pores, and promote sweating
n Releases toxins from the body
Contraindications for n Pregnancy n High blood pressure

Water Therapy
n Superficial Recommended for fine wrinkling, areas of dryness, uneven pigmentation

Chemical Peels and acne
Contraindications for n Sensitivity to the peeling agent n Keloids

Chemical Peels n Facial cancers n Use of Accutane
n Herpes n Pregnancy
n Microdermabrasion A superficial resurfacing of the skin that removes a portion of the stratum
corneum and requires 6 to 12 treatments to achieve improvements
Consecutive treatments are given every 7 to 10 days
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smartNOTES
Chapter 13 Advanced Treatments Advanced Face and Body Treatments Page 485
Contraindications for n Use of topical antibiotics

Microdermabrasion
n Use Retin-A® or Accutane
n Use of glycolic acid or alpha hydroxy acid products
n Rosacea
n Active grade 3 or 4 acne
List two ways in which body wraps create temporary tightness and explain each one.
Absorption and compaction are the two ways in which body wraps create temporary tightness.
Absorption is the process that involves wrapping the body with a blend of astringent herbs,
essential oils, seaweed or clay, which draw out and absorb unwanted liquid trapped in the body by
increasing circulation and promoting elimination of toxins and other fluids. The bandages
compact tissues after the toxins and fluids have been eliminated, giving the body a leaner look
LEARNING CON N E CT I ON The Wrap Up
Using the clues below, name the type of face or body treatment being described
and place it in the blank next to the correct clue.
Clue Face or Body Treatment
1. Means “to peel” Gomage
2. Performed on the roughest and thickest skin Hand or foot treatments
3. Create temporary tightness Body wraps
4. Contain coarse (grainy) ingredients Manual exfoliants
5. Reduce appearance of cellulite Cellulite wraps
6. Also referred to as balneotherapy Hydrotherapy tub treatments
7. Used for fine wrinkling and areas of dryness Superficial chemical peels
8. Used to apply cleanser to dry skin Hand-held exfoliators
9. Lightly resurfaces the epidermis Microdermabrasion
10. Use warm steam to induce relaxation Saunas and steam baths
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smartNOTES
Chapter 13 Advanced Treatments Advanced Massage Techniques Pages 486-490
n
M 2 Explain the difference between the various advanced
massage techniques and their specific contraindications
Reflexology Uses pressure on specific points of the feet, hands and sometimes the
Treatment ears to influence certain body conditions
Reflexologists Professionals who practice reflexology
Releases body-bound energy blockages that cause stress, fatigue,
irritability, pain, and even disease
Contraindications n Arthritis
for Reflexology n Osteoporosis
Treatment
n Pregnancy
n Autoimmune disorders
n Manual Lymphatic Works to reduce bloating and puffiness caused by toxins building up in tissues
Drainage Massage
Lymph A fluid that circulates through the blood system via muscular contractions,
delivering nutrients to cells and carrying away cellular waste before it
becomes toxic to the body
Acupressure is
another massage
Contraindications for n Arthritis n Blood disorders technique which
involves applying
Manual Lymphatic n Osteoporosis n Autoimmune disorders
pressure to specific
Drainage Massage points on the body.
n Pregnancy n Diabetes
n Cellulite Massage Reduce the appearance of cellulite by increasing circulation

Treatments
Contraindications for n Osteoporosis

Cellulite Massage n Pregnancy
Treatments
n Autoimmune disorders
What are some factors that cause toxins to build up in your body?
Age, illness, stress, alcohol, cigarettes, drug use or a deficient diet are factors that cause toxins to
build up in your body.
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LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Reflexology
Fill in the blanks to complete the descriptions of the three advanced massage techniques.
1. Reflexology technique uses pressure on specific points of the feet, hands and sometimes
the ears to influence certain body conditions. According to reflexologists , distinct
regions of the feet, hands and ears correspond with the body’s internal organs .
2. Manual lymphatic drainage massage works to reduce this bloat, or puffiness. MLD helps
ciculate lymph , helping the body rid itself of toxins, waste and excess water. This drainage
promotes healthy functioning and healing of the body.
3. Cellulite massage treatments are very popular since they may reduce the appearance of
cellulite . Cellulite massage treatments may also reduce the appearance of cellulite by
increasing circulation . The increase in circulation helps remove excess fluids and waste
material as well as firming the muscle tissue so that the skin lies flatter against the
muscles.
smartNOTES
Chapter 13 Advanced Treatments Advanced Therapies Pages 493-496
n
M 3 Describe the function and types of advanced therapies
that are available in the esthetics settings
Phytotherapy The medicinal use of plants

Phytocosmetics Phytotherapy preparations used for cosmetic purposes
History of n World’s oldest form of therapy
Phytotherapy n Developed drugs, such as aspirin and morphine, from the active ingredients
How Phytotherapy Alkaloids and glucosides (organic compounds with medicinal attributes) give
Works plants their healing properties which are known as active ingredients
Provide one or more of the following therapeutic qualities:
stimulation soothing analgesic
astringency healing anti-inflammatory
moisturization antiseptic antioxidant properties
How Plant Ingredients Generally obtained from reputable growers, and in some instances, they may
are Obtained also be gathered from the wild
Tinctures Require soaking an herb in alcohol to extract the active ingredient from the plant
Ointment A thick crème or salve made from the combination of herbs and petroleum
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smartNOTES
Phytotherapy Uses Infusions Fomentation

Within the Skin
n Involve steeping an
Care Center herb in boiling water
n Involves soaking a clean towel in
the liquid and applying it to a
specific area of the body
Decoctions
n Created by boiling Poultice
loose herbs in water
n Involves mixing crushed herbs and
hot liquid to form a paste
n Aromatherapy The controlled use of essential oils, which happen to be highly fragranced
for specific outcomes
Carrier Oil A neutral oil, most often grapeseed, almond, apricot kernel, jojoba or olive
Used to dilute an essential oil
History of Did not appear in North America until the late 1980s and early 1990s
Aromatherapy Greeks used aromatic oils as cosmetics and medicine
Ayurveda Ancient science of health and medicine that utilizes aromatic massage oils
About Fragrance Fragrance is a general term referring to any kind of scent
Fixatives Oily ingredients, that add a warm, musky odor and also prevent a fragrance from
quickly evaporating
Fragrances are separated into seven categories:
Floral Fruit blend Forest or Oriental Modern blend Floral bouquet Spice blend
wood blend
Includes A category Describes A category of Represents Features Describes
fragrances that fragrances full-bodied, fragrances fragrances fragrances
that smell encompasses made from a warm, often concocted that are made made from
strongly fresh, often combination heavy aromas from several up of several several spicy
of a single sweet, of woods different floral scents aromas
flower fragrances scents
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smartNOTES
How Antiseptic oils help destroy bacteria and heal skin eruptions
Aromatherapy
Astringent oils temporarily tighten tissue and reduce secretions
Works
Anti-inflammatory oils reduce inflammation and soothe swollen muscles
Analgesic oils help deaden surface pain
Antioxidant oils help fight skin-ravaging free radicals
Healing oils promote cells to regenerate so the skin can repair itself
Moisturizing oils soften dry or flaky skin
Soothing oils help reduce irritation
Stimulating oils boost circulation to skin
How Essential Oils Huge quantities of raw plant material are often needed to obtain
are Obtained a small amount of essential oil
Expression
Steam Distillation
Squeezes out an ingredient’s
As the steam percolates fragrant oil
through the plant material,
it pulls off volatile oils,
which are then condensed
Commercial Extraction
Uses a chemical solvent, such

as petroleum or ether, to leach
Enfleurage the aromatic component from
a plant
Entails steeping matter
in oil or fat, which in turn
absorbs the material’s
Maceration
fragrance
Entails plunging a substance
into hot oil or fat, which then
absorbs the fragrance
Aromatherapy The easiest way to use fragrant essential oils is to add a calming or energizing
Uses oil to a room diffuser
Always do a patch test to ascertain potential reactions
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smartNOTES
Common Tea tree has antiseptic and antimicrobial benefits

Aromatherapy Sandalwood has anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties
Essential Oils
Rose is known for its soothing and moisturizing benefits
Neroli can be used to treat oily and acneic skin
Lavender has many different properties, antiseptic , antimicrobial , soothing,
stimulating and healing
Eucalyptus is beneficial in body treatments aimed at easing stiff, sore muscles
or boosting circulation
Chamomile can be used for any skin condition or in any treatment
Ylang-ylang can be incorporated into body therapies aimed at
enhancing circulation
n Algotherapy The therapeutic use of marine plants to cleanse and revitalize the skin and body
History of Ancient Greeks and Romans lauded seaweed treatments for their
Algotherapy rejuvenating effects
Attribute modern popularity to Louis Bagot, a French doctor
How Algotherapy When seaweed contacts with the skin, its multiple trace elements, such as iodine,
Works become catalysts that help increase skin cells’ ability to heal and renew
Phytohormones Trace elements, mineral salts, essential amino acids, polysaccharides, vitamins,
enzymes, helpful bacteria, natural antibiotics and plant hormones
How Algae is Sea plants are either grown in oceanic “farms” or they grow wild
Obtained After impurities are removed, the seaweed may be dried and left as it is or powdered
Algotherapy Uses Using commercially-prepared, seaweed-infused masks, scrubs, lotions, massage

lubricants, wraps and other products during esthetics treatments
Describe the major differences between aromatherapy and algotherapy.

Aromatherapy is the controlled use of essential oils. These oils, derived solely from plant
matter, are also known as aromatherapy oils. Algotherapy is the therapeutic use of marine
plants to cleanse and revitalize the skin and body.
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L E AR N I N G C ON N E C T I ON Scent Categories
Separate each scent into one of the seven categories for fragrances based on its type.
Category Scent
n Vanilla
n Sandalwood
1. FLORAL Rose, Jasmine
n Citrus
2. FLORAL BOUQUET Wildflower Blend
n Chocolate
n Almond 3. ORIENTAL Musk
n Pear
4. FRUIT BLEND Citrus, Pear
n Musk
n Wildflower Blend 5. SPICE BLEND Vanilla, Ginger
n Jasmine
6. FOREST OR WOOD BLEND Sandalwood, Eucalyptus

n Ginger
n Eucalyptus
7. MODERN BLEND Chocolate, Almond
n Rose
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MATCHING
Column A Column B
A. Emollient B Relieves pain either by relaxing muscles or reducing

pain signals to the brain
B. Analgesic K Increases blood flow at the surface of the skin
C. Stimulant J Prevents bacterial growth on skin with external

application
D. Antioxidant M The medicinal use of plants
E. Soother L Helps the body fight off harmful bacteria
Provides a constricting, drying effect; helps contract

F. Aromatherapy G tissue and reduce secretions
Softens, soothes, and protects skin; synonym for

G. Astringent A moisturizer
H. Ointment I Reduces swelling of tissues
Fights harmful oxidation which leads to free radical

I. Anti-inflammatory D attack
J. Antiseptic N Involve steeping an herb in boiling water
K. Circulatory stimulant O Require soaking an herb in alcohol to extract the

active ingredient from the plant
L. Antibacterial E Quiets the nervous system
The controlled use of essential oils, which happen to

M. Phytotherapy F be highly fragranced for specific outcomes
A thick crème or salve made from the combination of

N. Infusions H herbs and petroleum
O. Tinctures C Increases the body’s energy
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1. Body Image Awareness
Cellulite treatments are bestsellers because people find the Discuss, with a partner, the increased
dimply fat located on their belly, hips, legs and buttocks to be awareness of body image in today’s
unsightly in today’s athletic-style fashions. A body wrap offers
society and how that has affected the
esthetics industry. Use the box on the
a quick firm up for clients; while only temporary, it is a popular
left to write your notes.
item for special events and pampering for today’s busy society.
Chemical peels are also used to smooth fine wrinkling areas with
no recovery time for the large population of “Baby Boomers.”
2. Reflexology Benefits
Release of body-bound energy blockages that cause stress, Create a list, with a partner, of the
fatigue, irritability, pain, and even disease. It is also benefits derived from reflexology.
extremely relaxing. Use the box to the left to write your
list.
3. Create a Fragrance
Create a fragrance by combining
aromatherapy scents from the seven
categories—floral, floral bouquet,
oriental, spice blend, forest or wood
blend, fruit blend, or modern blend.
Name your fragrance and describe the
healing, moisturizing or other effects
that your fragrance will cause.
Use the box to the left to write

your formula.
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THE CHALLENGE 1. TRUE FALSE Gomage are products that contain coarse (grainy) ingredients that
rub against dead skin cells, removing them from the epidermis.
Now it’s time to see how Manual exfoliants are products that contain coarse (grainy) ingredients that
rub against dead skin cells, removing them from the epidermis.
material. First answer 2. TRUE FALSE Do not make specific weight or inch loss claims for body wraps.
the Memory Box that
Look up each answer on 3. Cellulite is made of deposits of fat, water and waste materials trapped
between skin fibers.
the Salon Fundamentals™ 4. What uses a warm steam to induce relaxation, expand pores, and promote
sweating, which is said to release toxins from the body?
a. hydrotherapy
“got it” for all correct b. cellulite wraps
answers and “not yet” for c. affusion therapy
all incorrect responses. d. saunas and steam baths
Using the “Know Chart,” 5. Which of the following is performed by estheticians using alpha hydroxy acid,
record all of your correct glycolic acid or lactic acid?
responses in the “I a. hydrotherapy
b. cellulite wraps
Know” column. After c. affusion therapy
correcting incorrect d. superficial chemical peels
6. What procedure lightly resurfaces the epidermis, removing 20% to 30% of
corrected responses in the the epidermis?
“I Need to Study” column. a. hydrotherapy
That way you know exactly b. cellulite wraps
c. microdermabrasion
d. reflexology treatments
7. What technique uses pressure on specific points of the feet, hands and
sometimes the ears to influence certain body conditions?
a. reflexology
whether questions 1 and b. hydrotherapy
2 are True or False by c. affusion therapy
circling TRUE or FALSE. d. manual lymphatic drainage massage
You can earn an extra 8. What organic compounds with medicinal attributes give plants
point for each false their healing properties?
statement you a. tinctures and glucosides
b. infusions and decoctions
appropriately correct. c. alkaloids and glucosides
Question 3 requires you d. phytocosmetics and tinctures
9. Which of the following is NOT a classification of fragrances?
in the blank provided. a. floral
Answers to the questions b. oriental
found in 4 through 10 c. fruit blend
d. earth blend
may be selected by
circling a, b, c or d below 10. Which type of oil helps destroy bacteria and heal skin eruptions?
a. antiseptic
b. astringent
your choice. c. analgesic
d. anti-inflammatory
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o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
Imagine you have been asked to give a presentation on the healing powers of plants. Create an opening
statement to draw attention to your topic, and also write a closing statement that sums up your presentation.
OPENING STATEMENT: Take time to stop and smell the roses.
CLOSING STATEMENT: Remember – plants aren’t just for giving; they’re for healing.
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The Line Up
Put the following 13 guidelines for a microdermabrasion procedure in the correct
order with 1 being the first step, 2 being the second step and so forth.
NUMBER STEP
8 Complete one pass over the face, and assess capillary

activity before proceeding
5 Place a new disposable microdermabrasion tip on the

handpiece. Use a new tip for each patient
11 Recommend a proper line of products for the client to use

for home care between treatments
6 Turn on the microdermabrasion machine and set to its

lowest level. Use manufacturer recommended crystals
10 Dust residual crystals from the face with a warm, wet sponge
or cloth
13 Discard all disposable implements, cotton, tissue, gloves

and tips
2 Cleanse the skin with a slightly detergent cleanser to remove

all makeup, dirt, and sebum
Hold the skin at the center of the forehead taut, and use
7 quick strokes across the face from the center of the forehead
to the hairline. Strokes should be no longer than 2” (5 cm)
Follow the hairline, in accordance with directions and

9 techniques outlined on the microdermabrasion machine.
Do not perform additional passes if the skin is
noticeably pink
4 Place eye goggles over client’s eyes, and cover client’s hair
with a hair net or wrap
12 Advise clients to avoid saunas and steam for 24 to 48 hours

and sun exposure for at least 72 hours
3 Dry thoroughly with tissue and a small hand-held dryer
1 Wash and sanitize hands, put on protective gloves
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knowledge grid
of Chapter 13, Advanced Treatments. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-
confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.
KNOW List the contraindications for all advanced body and face treatments.
Cuts, abrasions, wounds, open sores, fungal infections, sunburn, rashes, circulatory conditions, diabetes,
cancer and high blood pressure are the contraindications for all advanced body and face treatments.
COMPREHEND Explain how to set up the service space before a basic facial.
Gather implements, supplies, products and equipment. Disinfect service area, implements
and equipment. Set up facial bed with clean linens. Arrange products and tools within easy
reach. Adjust the temperature of the room.
APPLY Offer a description that explains how aromatherapy works.
Aromatherapy works on the belief that, when inhaled, organic compounds pass into the bloodstream and
then into the nervous system, where they act upon the brain’s limbic system. The limbic system is linked
to instinctive behavior, emotions and the control of hormones. Essential oils in aromatherapy can be
either soothing or stimulating.
ANALYZE Analyze the importance of asking clients if they have contraindications for a
treatment before beginning.
The health of the client could seriously be harmed. The treatment could cause a series of reactions to
occur that will affect the client both short and long term. By asking before the treatment begins, you can
save time for both you and the client. Always make sure to ask if changes have occurred in his/her health
from treatment to treatment.
SYNTHESIZE Suggest a treatment for a client who complains about ‘dimply fat’ on her belly
and hips.
Cellulite treatments encourage the body to release toxins and excess fluids that may be trapped in tissues.
This treatment reduces the appearance of cellulite by causing skin to lie flatter.
EVALUATE What is your opinion of performing facials without machines?
A sample opinion may include that plant ingredients can be added to a treatment to target an area for
client, such as stress. Some people also feel it is a more natural way to achieve the same results.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. Which hand and foot treatment product is used to hydrate, calm and soothe the skin?
a. mask
b. exfoliant
c. sugar scrub
d. massage lubricant
2. The hand and foot treatment product that reduces friction during massage is called a(n):
a. salt scrub
b. essential oil
c. massage lubricant
d. aromatherapy soaking formula
3. The exfoliating treatment in which a layer of crème is applied to the skin, allowed to dry and then
rubbed away is called:
a. gomage
b. manual exfoliants
c. hand-held exfoliants
d. synthetic microbeads
4. Products that contain coarse ingredients that rub against dead skin cells, removing them from the
epidermis are known as:
a. gomage
b. manual exfoliants
c. skin-purifying wipes
d. hand-held exfoliants
5. Body wraps offer a quick way to firm all of the following areas EXCEPT:
a. hips
b. face
c. belly
d. thighs
6. What two principles give wraps the ability to create temporary tightness?
a. absorption and secretion
b. circulation and absorption
c. compaction and circulation
d. absorption and compaction
7. How long does a typical body wrap procedure last?

a. 5 to 10 minutes
b. 15 to 25 minutes
c. 30 to 60 minutes
d. 70 to 90 minutes
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Brain Conditioners
8. What is used to promote detoxification, constrict blood vessels and tighten

skin during a cellulite wrap procedure?
a. mylar wrap
b. cellulite crème
c. cellophane wrap
d. skin purifying wipes
9. Which of the following refers to the use of fresh water treatments?

a. steam bath
b. hose treatment
c. affusion therapy
d. hydrotherapy tub treatments
10. The method of water therapy in which the client is sprayed with water, seawater or
mineral water infused with herbs or essential oils is called:
a. steam baths
b. balneotherapy
c. affusion therapy
d. hydrotherapy tub treatment
11. Which of the following is NOT an alternate name for affusion therapy?
a. balneotherapy
b. hose treatment
c. jet blitz treatment
d. Vichy shower treatment
12. Which method of water therapy involves the use of warm steam to induce muscle relaxation,
expand pores and promote sweating?
a. steam baths
b. hose treatment
c. affusion therapy
d. hydrotherapy tub treatment
13. What percentage of glycolic acid is used in superficial chemical peels?

a. 10%
b. 20%
c. 30%
d. 50%
14. What treatment is responsible for lightly resurfacing the epidermis?

a. reflexology
b. dermabrasion
d. aluminum oxide crystals
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Brain Conditioners
15. Which of the terms listed below requires the patient to be anesthetized?
a. reflexology
b. dermabrasion
d. aluminum oxide crystals
16. The degree of exfoliation during microdermabrasion depends on all of the following EXCEPT:
a. level of crystal spray
b. time of day performed
c. number of passes over the skin
d. number of treatments performed
17. Following a microdermabrasion treatment, the client should avoid sun exposure for at least:
a. 12 hours
b. 24 hours
c. 48 hours
d. 72 hours
18. A technique that uses finger-point pressure to influence certain body conditions is referred to as:
a. reflexology
b. dermabrasion
c. cellulite treatments
d. manual lymphatic drainage massage
19. All of the following are contraindications for performing a reflexology treatment EXCEPT:
a. arthritis
b. pregnancy
c. osteoporosis
20. A fluid that circulates through the blood system via muscular contractions is known as:
a. MLD
b. water
c. lymph
d. alcohol
21. Which of the special massage techniques helps circulate lymph, helping the body rid itself of
toxins, waste and excess water?
a. reflexology
b. dermabrasion
c. cellulite massage treatments
d. manual lymphatic drainage massage (MLD)
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Brain Conditioners
22. The treatment that increases circulation, promoting the removal of excess fluids and waste
material as well as firming the muscle tissue is known as:
a. reflexology
b. microdermabrasion
c. cellulite massage treatments
d. manual lymphatic drainage massage (MLD)
23. Which of the following refers to the medicinal use of plants?

a. algotherapy
b. phytotherapy
c. aromatherapy
d. phytocosmetics
24. Phytotherapy preparations used for cosmetic purposes are known as:
a. tinctures
b. alkaloids
c. glucosides
d. phytocosmetics
25. Chemicals such as alkaloids and glucosides that give plants their healing properties are called:
a. tinctures
b. antimicrobials
c. active ingredients
d. inactive ingredients
26. Commercial extractions that require soaking an herb in alcohol to extract the active ingredient from
the plant are known as:
a. tinctures
b. ointments
c. glucosides
d. active ingredients
27. Soaking a clean towel in the liquid from both infusions and decoctions and applying it to a
specific area of the body is known as:
a. poultice
b. Ayurveda
c. fomentation
d. aromatherapy
28. Which of the following involves mixing crushed herbs and hot liquid to form a paste?
a. infusion
b. poultice
c. decoction
d. fomentation
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Brain Conditioners
29. The controlled use of essential oils is referred to as:

a. algotherapy
b. fomentation
c. phytotherapy
d. aromatherapy
30. The category of fragrance that is one of the easiest to identify is:
a. floral
b. oriental
c. spice blend
d. floral bouquet
31. The fragrance group that distinct odors like vanilla, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg belong
to is called:
a. oriental
b. wood blend
c. spice blend
d. modern blend
32. The category of fragrance that encompasses many men’s fragrances is called:
a. oriental
b. spice blend
c. wood blend
d. modern blend
33. The category of oils that helps destroy bacteria and heal skin eruptions is called a(n):
a. emollient
b. antiseptic
c. astringent
d. rubefacient
34. Which of the following categories fights skin-ravaging free radicals?

a. antiseptic oils
b. antioxidant oils
c. moisturizing oils
d. anti-inflammatory oils
35. The most common method of removing essential oils from raw plant material is:
a. extraction
b. enfleurage
c. expression
d. steam distillation
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Brain Conditioners
36. Which method of extracting essential oils from raw plant materials uses a chemical solvent,
such as petroleum or ether, to leach the aromatic component from an ingredient?
a. extraction
b. enfleurage
c. expression
d. steam distillation
37. Which type of essential oil is often used in treating acne?

a. rose
b. tea tree
c. lavender
d. sandalwood
38. This essential oil is used to treat stiff, sore muscles or to boost circulation:
a. rose
b. neroli
c. lavender
d. eucalyptus
39. What is the therapeutic use of marine plants to cleanse and revitalize the skin and body called?
a. reflexology
b. algotherapy
c. phytotherapy
d. aromatherapy
40. Mineral salts, essential amino acids, polysaccharides, vitamins, enzymes, helpful bacteria,
natural antibiotics and plant hormones are known as:
a. antioxidants
b. brown algae
c. analgesic oils
d. phytohormones
41. Q: A:
42. Q: A:
43. Q: A:
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Brain Conditioners
BONUS QUESTION!
44.
ESSAY QUESTION:
45a. Compare and contrast two body treatments and their specific contraindications.
Body scrubs are mechanical exfoliants used to remove dead skin cells and produce smooth, soft,
healthy skin. Because body scrubs remove the dead skin cell barrier, they also increase the
effectiveness of the treatment that follows. Contraindications for body scrubs include arthritis,
osteoporosis, and pregnant clients must be positioned lying on the side.
Body wraps are a popular service. Wraps offer a quick way to firm the upper arms, breasts, belly and/or hips.
Contraindications for body wraps include cuts, abrasions, wounds, open sores, claustrophobia, hypertension,
coronary conditions and pregnancy.
45b. Choose one of the three special massage techniques and describe and give the contraindications
for that special massage technique.
Manual lymphatic drainage massage helps circulate lymph, helping the body rid itself of toxins, waste and
excess water. This drainage promotes healthy functioning and healing of the body. MLD is also known to help
head off colds or flu, lessen the severity of seasonal allergies, and give clients firm, glowing skin.
Contraindications for MLD include arthritis, osteoporosis, pregnancy, blood disorders, autoimmune disorders
and diabetes.
45c. In the space below, give a brief description of the three special therapies described in this chapter.
n Phytotherapy is the medicinal use of plants.
n Aromatherapy is the controlled use of essential oils, which happen to be highly fragranced for specific
outcomes.
n Algotherapy is the therapeutic use of marine plants to cleanse and revitalize the skin and body.
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1. page 466
2. page 469
3. page 469 21. page 488

4. page 469 22. page 490
5. page 472 23. page 493
6. page 472 24. page 493
7. page 472 25 page 494
8. page 475 26. page 496
9. page 477 27. page 496
10. page 477 28. page 496
11. page 477 29. page 497
12. page 477 30. page 499
13. page 479 31. page 499
14. page 482 32. page 499
15. page 482 33. page 500
16. page 482 34. page 500
17. page 484 35. page 501
18. page 486 36. page 501
19. page 487 37. page 502
20. page 487 38. page 502
39. page 502
40. page 504
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NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Advanced Treatments

things you found difficult to learn and suggestions
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14
ESTHETICIANS IN THE
MEDICAL FIELD
VALUE MAIN IDEA
The medical field presents opportunities for Estheticians who wish to work with medical
estheticians to work cooperatively with practitioners need to understand the
medical practitioners in a challenging, highly relationship between esthetics and approved
structured professional environment. health practices and procedures. The esthe-
tician who chooses this path will work within
a team of physicians, nurses and other ancil-
lary staff and will need to stay apprised of
continuously changing regulatory controls.
This chapter will provide you with guidelines
of what may be expected of an esthetician in
a medical environment.
PLAN OBJECTIVES
The Medical n Dermatology and n Describe the different types of medical

Environment Plastic Surgery procedures performed by physicians that
n Esthetics in a Medical Practice are related to the esthetics profession.
n Explain the various esthetics procedures
applied in a medical practice.
Advanced n Continuing Education n Identify various ways of gaining additional

Training n Scope of Practice and advanced training to become qualified
to work in a medical setting.
n Define the phrase “scope of practice.”
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smartNOTES
Chapter 14 Estheticians in the Medical Field The Medical Environment Pages 509-511
Goals for Estheticians Your goals in a medical setting are to:

in the
1. Get the skin in the best possible condition prior to surgery to enhance the
Medical Setting
results of the surgery
2. Keep the skin in the most healthy condition after the procedure
3. Prolong the surgical results
IMPORTANT! Esthetics license permits estheticians to treat the epidermis only
n
M 1
Dermatology and
Plastic Surgery
Describe the different types of medical procedures performed
by physicians that are related to the esthetics profession
Cosmetic Procedures Dermatologists specialize in diagnosing and treating diseases of the skin and nails
Some of the procedures that dermatologists perform include chemical peels,
collagen/fat injections, Botox injections, dermabrasion and dermaplaning
Plastic Surgery Also called cosmetic or reconstructive surgery; performed for aesthetic and
reconstructive purposes
Plastic Surgeon Cosmetic surgeon; specializes in cosmetic and/or reconstructive surgery
Reconstructive Surgery Performed to restore the functioning of body parts or to correct a deformity that
may be the result of a birth defect, burn, injury or trauma to the skin, tissue,
nerves or muscles
Chemical Peels Use of chemical solutions to exfoliate the surface of the skin, promote cell
turnover and induce desquamation (shedding, peeling or coming off in scales)
of the stratum corneum
Results: Phenol treatment may result in:

n Smoothes wrinkles n Lightening of treated skin
n Evens pigmented skin tone n Inability to tan
n Decreases effects of sun damage Recovery:
Chemical Peels Recommended for: n TCA Peel: 7-10 days for new skin formation
n Fair skin with superficial wrinkles n Phenol Peel: 7-21 days for new skin
Side-Effects: formation
n Temporary throbbing or tingling Duration of Results:

n Mild swelling n TCA Peel: Permanent, although new
n Redness wrinkles may form as skin ages
n Increased sensitivity to sun n Phenol Peel: Varies (temporary)
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Depth of Penetration The depth of penetration and the results achieved depend upon the concentration
and type of chemical used and the pH of the product
EMDA The Esthetic Manufacturers and Distributors Alliance has established procedural
guidelines to ensure safety and consistency in the use of alpha hydroxy acids
for chemical peels
IMPORTANT! Estheticians are only permitted to perform light or superficial peels; medium to
deep peels can only be performed by physicians
Medium-Depth Peels n Use trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHAs), such as
salicylic acid
n Use 50% to 70% glycolic acid or 35% to 40% TCA
n Affect the dermis (cannot be performed by an esthetician)
n Recommended for treating fine surface wrinkles, superficial blemishes and
pigmentation problems
Deep Peels n Affect the dermis more intensely than medium-depth peels
n Recommended for treating deep facial wrinkles, sun-damaged skin, uneven
pigmentation or pre-cancerous growths
Collagen or Fat Fill in creased, furrowed or sunken facial skin, lines and wrinkles; temporarily
Injections restore a youthful appearance to the face or add fullness to the lips and cheeks;
results last from 3 to 6 months
Human Collagen
Collagen Injections A naturally occurring Injectable Collagen

protein that is a compo- Derived from purified bovine
nent of human skin, joints, (cow) collagen and is similar
bones and ligaments to human collagen
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Fat Injections Also called autologous fat transplantation or microlipoinjection
Fat is removed with a syringe from a “donor site,” such as the patient’s abdomen,
thigh or buttock, and injection sites are treated with local anesthetic
Collagen or Fat Injection
Results: Side-Effects: Recovery:

n Plumps up facial skin, n Temporary stinging, n Immediate
decreasing indentations throbbing or burning
n Adds fullness to lips sensation Duration of Results:
n Mild redness n Varies; usually 3-6
n Swelling months
Recommended for:
n Dry, light-colored skin n Excess fullness
n Allergic reaction
Pre- and Post-Operative n Esthetician may be asked to bring the patient’s skin to optimum health
Treatments before surgeries
n Prepare the patient for the physician by deep cleansing or exfoliating

the patient’s skin, or perform extractions upon patients with a variety of
dermatological conditions
n Care for wounds, help with medical cosmetic procedures requiring staples
or stitches or plastic surgery follow-up, such as with camouflage makeup
Botox® Cosmetic Botulinum Toxin Type A, an injection that blocks nerve impulses and
Injections temporarily paralyzes muscles that cause facial wrinkles
Injected into specific muscles of the forehead or around the eye to reduce
the muscle’s ability to cause wrinkles during facial expressions
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Botox® Cosmetic
Injections (continued)
Botox® Injections

n Reduces wrinkles caused by n Mild bruising or swelling at n Immediate
facial expressions injection site
n Mild headache Duration of Results:
Recommended for: n Flu-like symptoms n Varies; usually 2-3 months
n Patients who have wrinkles n Temporary drooping eyelids
caused by facial expressions n Nausea
n Long-term side-effects are
unknown
Dermabrasion and n Surgical procedures that improve uneven skin textures due to acne,
Dermaplaning
facial scars and fine wrinkles by mechanically scraping off the top
layers of skin
n Dermabrasion uses a motorized rough wire brush or a burr to scrape away
the surface of the skin
n Dermaplaning procedures use an oscillating blade, called a
dermatome, to remove the surface of the skin that is built higher
around scarred or wrinkled areas to level the skin
n Can be performed on small areas of skin or on entire face
Dermabrasion vs. Dermabrasion

Microdermabrasion Microdermabrasion
n Must be performed by a
physician n Can be performed by an
n More invasive procedure esthetician
that removes several n Superficial resurfacing of
layers of the epidermis the skin that removes a
n Used to treat deep portion of the stratum
wrinkles, pigmentation corneum
and acne scars n Used to treat fine lines
and wrinkles, large pores
and rough texture
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Dermabrasion or
Dermaplaning
Dermabrasion or Dermaplaning

n Smoothes skin surface n Temporary tingling, burning n Normal activities may be
n Improves irregularities from and itching resumed in about 2 weeks
acneBlepharoplasty
scars and wrinkles n Mild swelling n Strenuous activities may be
Recommended for:
(Eyelid Surgery) n Redness resumed in 4-6 weeks
n Lightening of treated skin n Complete healing takes place
Blepharoplasty
n Patients with deep acne n Increased sensitivity to sun in 3-6 months
scars, or major
(Eyelid pigmentation
Surgery) n Formation of milia
problems Duration of Results:
n Flare-up of cold sores
n Permanent
Blepharoplasty Removes excess fat, skin or muscle from the upper and lower eyelids
(Eyelid Surgery) Corrects droopy upper lids and puffy bags beneath the eyes
Blepharoplasty (Eyelid Surgery)

n Lifts drooping upper eyelids n Temporary discomfort n Reading may be resumed
n Removes puffy bags below n Tightness of lids after 2 or 3 days
the eyes n Mild swelling and bruising n Normal activities may be
n Temporary dryness, burning, resumed in 7-10 days
itching of eyes n Contacts may be worn after
Recommended for: n Excessive tearing about 2 weeks
n Patients with drooping upper n Sensitivity to light for first Duration of Results:
eyelids or puffy bags below few weeks
the eyes n Temporary blurred or double n Several years, and may be
vision permanent
Rhytidectomy Can improve visible signs of aging by removing excess fat, tightening
(Facelift) underlying muscles and re-draping the skin of the face and neck
Recommended for individuals whose face and neck have begun to sag
but still have some elasticity in facial skin and good bone structure
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Rhytidectomy (Facelift)
Results: Side-Effects: Duration of Results:

n Improves sagging facial skin n Temporary bruising n Approximately 5-10 years
n Reduces jowls n Swelling
n Makes loose neck skin n Numbness and tenderness
more taut of skin
Recommended for: Recovery:
n Individuals whose face and n Normal activities may be
neck have begun to sag but resumed in 10-14 days
still have some elasticity in n Complete healing takes
their facial skin and good place in 2-3 weeks
bone structure
Non-ablative Lasers Ablative Lasers

Ablative and
Non-ablative Lasers
Penetrate the epidermis, Remove the affected
usually without affecting it, portion of the epidermis to
to treat the papillary heat the papillary dermis,
dermis below which regenerates collagen
Laser Resurfacing Uses a beam of highly focused light to vaporize the upper layers of damaged
skin at specific and controlled levels of penetration; can stimulate increased
production of collagen and elastin; minimizes fine lines and wrinkles, especially
around the mouth and eyes, and improves facial scars and pigmentation conditions
Laser Resurfacing

n Smoothes fine wrinkles n Temporary swelling n Normal activities may be
n Softens lines around the eyes n Discomfort resumed in about 2 weeks
and mouth n Lightening of treated areas n Redness fades in 6 months
n Minimizes facial scars and n Increased sensitivity to sun or less
uneven pigmentation and makeup
n Pinkness or redness in skin Duration of Results:
Recommended for: n Long-lasting, yet new
that may persist for up to 6
n Treatment of fine lines, large months wrinkles develop with
pores, hyperpigmentation, natural aging
scars and wrinkles
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Rhinoplasty Surgery to reshape the nose

(Nose Surgery) Can alter the size and shape of the nose or narrow the span of the nostrils
Can change the angle between the nose and upper lip; correct birth defects
Rhinoplasty (Nose Surgery)

n Reshapes nose n Temporary swelling n Normal activities may be
Recommended for: n Bruising around eyes resumed in about 1-2 weeks;
and nose avoid hitting nose for at least
n Patients who wish to n Headaches 8 weeks
reshape their nose for n Complete healing takes place
cosmetic or reconstructive in about 1 year
reasons
Duration of Results:
n Permanent
M 2 Explain the various esthetics procedures applied in a medical practice
n Esthetics Proper skin care before and after medical procedures produces superior results
Procedures
in a Medical Practice
Dermatological Not all skin problems result from disease; some are symptoms of other
Disorders diseases, such as lupus or diabetes, or can indicate a hormonal imbalance
Several esthetics procedures can help relieve the discomfort of a patient’s
skin condition
Post-Operative Wound healing Bacterial infections

Complications Burn care and possible complications Yeast infections (candida)
Conjunctivitis (pink eye) Ecchymosis (bruising)
Erythema (redness of the skin) Herpetic infections
Early signs of scarring (cold sores)
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Wound Healing A wound is a break in the continuity of the skin that is caused by trauma to the
tissue; a wound healing improperly appears yellow; a wound healing properly
appears red or pink
The six signs of infection are pain, swelling, redness, local fever, throbbing and pus
Infections
Bacterial Infections Develop when microbes invade an injured, open or wounded part of the body;
symptoms include redness, soreness and presence of pus
Conjunctivitis (Pink Eye) An extremely contagious bacterial infection that affects the membrane that lines
the eyelids; characterized by red, itchy, watery eyes that may develop a significant
amount of pus
Yeast Infections Superficial fungal infections that occur on moist areas of the skin; symptoms
include extreme redness and clusters of large pustules which develop into scaly patches
Herpetic Infections Highly contagious viral infections that are triggered when the body or skin is
(Cold Sores) placed under extreme stress, such as a laser treatment; symptoms include
tingling, itching and tiny pustules
Ecchymosis (Bruising) The clinical term for bruising of the skin; produced when skin is traumatized,
damaging capillaries and causing blood to pool in the traumatized area
Erythema Clinical term for redness of the skin; common after chemical peels and surgical
(Redness of the Skin) procedures; needs to be monitored to prevent infection
Scarring Early detection can minimize formation; proper treatment and hydration of the
skin, as well as mild keratolytic ingredients, can keep scars manageable;
unavoidable after some procedures
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Burn Care 1. First-degree burns

n Least severe, only damaging the epidermis
n Skin is red and sensitive
n May be produced by mild sunburn or brief contact with a hot object
n Treat with topical skin preparations, such as aloe vera, antibiotics or antiseptics
n Rinse in cool water or apply cold, moist cloths
2. Second-degree burns
n More severe and may require medical attention; damage penetrates to the dermis
n Redness, swelling and blistering may occur
n Produced by severe sunburn or contact with boiling liquids
n Immerse the burned area in cool water; blisters should not be broken
3. Third-degree burns
n Very severe
n All layers of skin and underlying tissue are damaged or destroyed; nerve
endings are exposed, and fat, muscle and bone may also be burned
n Skin is charred or whitened
n May require skin graft surgery, in which a section of skin is taken from an
unburned area of the body and surgically reattached
n Frequently treated with an antimicrobial dressing
Medications for
Post-Operative
Complications
Topical Medications Applied directly to the skin
Anti-Inflammatory Used to treat inflammatory conditions, such as dermatitis; may thin the skin and
Medications
increase sensitivity; examples include steroid crèmes and cortisone-type lotions
Keratolytic Medications Crèmes or ointments used to promote rapid cell turnover and exfoliation
Often cause the skin to become dry or flaky
Antibacterial Medications Used to kill bacteria and prevent them from reproducing; include topical
antibiotics, such as erythromycin, clindamycin and benzoyl peroxide
May cause the skin to become dry, flaky or more sensitive
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Chapter 14 Estheticians in the Medical Field The Medical Environment Page 521
Systemic Medications Taken orally and travel through the body in the bloodstream
Frequently used to treat skin disorders and diseases, and to promote healing
following surgery
Antibiotics Used to treat a variety of conditions

Primary function is to kill or prevent the growth of bacteria
Oral antibiotics can cause skin dryness
Antihistamines Frequently prescribed to relieve uncomfortable skin conditions, such as itching

and hives; extended use can cause dryness and dehydration
Accutane® (Isotretinoin) A derivative of Vitamin A

Prescribed for severe, disfiguring cases of acne and certain other skin diseases
Works by inhibiting the functioning of the sebaceous glands
Laser resurfacing is a medical procedure that many believe carries a high risk for patients.
Explain why you think this belief could be true.
Laser resurfacing requires the use of anesthesia, which creates additional risks for patients.
LEARNING C ON N E C T I ON Professionals and Procedures
Specialized medical professionals perform many different medical procedures. Match the procedure
in Column A with the appropriate description in Column B.
Column A Column B
Surgical procedures that improve uneven skin textures
A. Chemical Peel C due to acne, facial scars and fine wrinkles
B A surgical procedure used to fill in creased, furrowed or

B. Collagen/Fat Injection
sunken facial skin, lines and wrinkles
C. Blepharoplasty E Surgery to reshape the nose
D. Dermabrasion and Surgery to remove excess fat, skin or muscle from the
D
Dermaplaning upper and lower eyelids
Use of chemical solutions to exfoliate the surface
E. Rhinoplasty A
of the skin
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Chapter 14 Estheticians in the Medical Field Advanced Training Pages 522-524
M 3 Identify various ways of gaining additional and advanced training

to become qualified to work in a medical setting
Continuing Education Required each year by many professions as part of their licensure agreement; guarantee
Credits a “good standing” status with the regulatory agency that oversees the profession
2 Important Considerations n The necessity of pursuing additional professional training and support
n The difference in legal and liability exposure
n Continuing Additional training and education can be obtained through a network of

Education professional and industry connections
Medical Facilities May already have various trainers in place to educate you about the specific
medical environment; OSHA requirements may be outlined to you by a
designated trainer in medical office; take the initiative to research the employer
and the employer’s procedures and practices, and then make sure that you remain
within the scope of your competence, licensure and prior training once on the job
Product Many professional associations offer training and educational programs that are
Manufacturers not product-specific; know the requirements and limitations of your esthetician’s
license regarding use of products
Professional Additional training may be found from professional associations that hold
Associations educational conferences throughout the year
Medical Esthetics Provide condensed versions of what an esthetician will experience in the actual
Courses medical setting; further experience is always necessary to build upon the
foundation the short courses provide
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Chapter 14 Estheticians in the Medical Field Advanced Training Pages 523-524
n
M 4 Define the phrase “scope of practice”
Scope of Practice Procedures that may be legally performed, as defined by the local regulatory
agency, which can vary from location to location
Staying current with the esthetician’s scope of practice is an ongoing process
Explain in your own words what is meant by “scope of practice.”
Scope of practice refers to regulated procedures that an esthetician can perform.
LEARNING CON N E CT I ON Networking
Continuing education can be obtained through a network of different places. For each of the places listed
below give an example of how you could obtain continuing education from them.
Medical Facilities May have various trainers in place to educate

you about the specific medical environment
Product Manufacturers Offer training and education programs that are

not product-specific
Professional Associations May hold educational conferences throughout

the year
Medical Esthetics Courses Provide a condensed version of what an

esthetician will experience in the actual
medical setting
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MATCHING
Column A Column B
A. Chemical peel D Performed for aesthetic and reconstructive purposes
Can improve visible signs of aging by removing excess

B. Fat injections F fat, tightening underlying muscles and re-draping the
skin of the face and neck
C. Dermabrasion The use of chemical solutions to exfoliate the surface of

A the skin, promote cell turnover and induce desquamation
D. Plastic surgery Process in which fat is removed with a syringe from a

B “donor site” and injected into the area to be treated
E. Blepharoplasty Removes the affected portion of the epidermis to heat the

G papillary dermis, which regenerates collagen
F. Rhytidectomy H Surgery to reshape the nose
G. Ablative laser J Clinical term for bruising of the skin
An extremely contagious bacterial infection that affects

H. Rhinoplasty I
the membrane that lines the eyelids
Surgical procedure that improves uneven skin textures

I. Conjunctivitis C
due to acne, facial scars and fine wrinkles
Develops when microbes invade an injured, open or

J. Ecchymosis N
wounded part of the body
Characterized by a break in the continuity of the skin

K. Erythema O
that is caused by trauma to the tissue
The least severe type of burns that only damages

L. Keratolytic medications M
the epidermis
Crèmes or ointments used to promote rapid cell turn-

M. First-degree burn L
over and exfoliation
N. Bacterial infection K Clinical term for redness of the skin
Eyelid surgery to remove excess fat, skin or muscle from

O. Wound E
the upper and lower eyelids
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1. Skin Care & Surgery
Prior to the surgery, the esthetician might be asked to bring the Discuss, with a partner, the possible
patient’s skin to optimum health. The esthetician may be called role of a skin care specialist in the
upon to prepare the patient for the medical procedure by deep
pre- and post-operative treatments
of a patient who is going to have a
cleansing or exfoliating the patient’s skin or performing
Blepharoplasty surgery.
extractions on patients with a variety of dermatological
conditions. The esthetician might also be asked to provide
assistance post-operatively by caring for wounds, helping with
medical cosmetic procedures requiring staples or stitches or
cosmetic surgery follow-up, such as with camouflage makeup.
2. Post-op Observations
Typical responses may include the following examples: Estheticians who work in almost any
medical setting need a basic knowledge
Wounds and ecchymosis (bruising) are common after a of post-operative surgical concerns and
possible complications.
post-operative procedure. A wound is characterized by a break in
the continuity of the skin that is caused by trauma to the tissue.
Discuss, with a partner, any
post-operative complications you
have already experienced or have
witnessed firsthand.
3. Ongoing Training
Continuing education can be found at a variety of sources It is in the best interest of

including the following: medical facilities, product estheticians in the medical field to
find ways of gaining additional and
manufacturers, professional associations and medical
advanced training in the field.
esthetics courses.
Discuss, with a partner, sources

where you can find additional and
advanced training.
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1. TRUE FALSE A chemical peel is the use of chemical solutions to exfoliate the surface
THE CHALLENGE of the skin, promote cell turnover and induce desquamation.
2. TRUE FALSE Medium-Depth Peels use the strongest of the chemical peel solutions.
these questions. Then use Deep peels use the strongest of the chemical peel solutions.
the Memory Box that
follows to check yourself. 3. Collagen is a naturally occurring protein that is a component of human skin,
Look up each answer on joints, bones and ligaments.
the corresponding page in 4. What is the primary purpose for the surgical procedure called dermabrasion?
the Salon Fundamentals™ a. adds fullness to lips
Esthetics textbook. Check b. plumps up facial skin
“got it” for all correct c. lifts drooping eyelids
d. improves uneven skin textures
all incorrect responses. 5. Which of the following can improve visible signs of aging by removing excess fat,
tightening underlying muscles, and re-draping the skin of the face and neck?
a. rhinoplasty
record all of your cor- b. rhytidectomy
rect responses in the “I c. blepharoplasty
Know” column. After d. laser resurfacing
correcting incorrect 6. Which of the following terms characterizes a break in the continuity of the skin
answers, record all of your that is caused by trauma to the tissue?
a. wound
b. conjunctivitis
“I Need to Study” column. c. blepharoplasty
That way you know exactly d. bacterial infection
what to review before 7. The clinical term for redness of the skin is referred to as:
continuing in this Guide. a. scarring
b. erythema
Directions: Identify c. blepharoplasty
whether questions 1 and d. first-degree burn
2 are True or False by 8. What is used to treat inflammatory conditions such as dermatitis?
circling TRUE or FALSE. a. antibiotics
b. keratolytic medications
c. antibacterial medications
point for each false d. anti-inflammatory medications
statement you
9. Which of the following is used to promote rapid cell turnover and exfoliation?
appropriately correct. a. antibiotic
Question 3 requires you b. antihistamine
to write in an answer c. antibacterial medication
d. keratolytic medication
Answers to the questions 10. The procedures that may be legally performed, as defined by a regulatory
found in questions 4 agency, are referred to as the:
a. network
through 10. may be b. scope of practice
selected by circling a, b, c. esthetics procedures
c, or d, below each d. professional procedures
statement to indicate your
choice.
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o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet

o not yet
SHOW YOU KNOW...
Contact an esthetician who works with a medical practice. Discuss the relationship between esthetics and
approved health practices and procedures. Also discuss what is expected of estheticians who work in a medical
environment. Compare your results with your classmates.
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knowledge grid
Chapter 14, Estheticians in the Medical Field. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build
self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about the subject.
KNOW Describe what is meant by a fat injection.
A fat injection involves removing fat from a “donor site,” such as the patient’s abdomen, thigh or buttock,
and injecting the fat into the area to be treated. Fat injections are used to treat sunken cheeks, laugh lines,
skin depressions or indentations, forehead wrinkles or to enlarge the lips.
COMPREHEND What is the difference between dermabrasion and microdermabrasion?
Dermabrasion is an invasive procedure that removes several layers of the epidermis and can
reach as deep as the dermis. Microdermabrasion is a superficial resurfacing of the skin that
removes a portion of the stratum corneum.
APPLY Explain how the dermaplaning procedure works.
Dermaplaning procedures use an oscillating blade, called a dermatome, to remove the surface of the skin
that has grown higher around scarred or wrinkled areas to level the skin.
ANALYZE Compare the desired results of collagen or fat injections with Botox® cosmetic injections.
Collagen or fat injection results include plumping up of facial skin, decreasing indentations and adding
fullness to lips. Botox® injections result in reduction of wrinkles caused by facial expressions.
SYNTHESIZE Create a catchy phrase that shows the differences between the three types of burns.
A sample of a catchy phrase could be “First – Least Severe, Second – More Severe, Third – Very Severe.”
EVALUATE What is your opinion of performing cosmetic surgery on patients?
A sample opinion may include the benefits of cosmetic surgery and also some of the side-effects associated
with each of the different types of cosmetic surgery.
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BRAIN CONDITIONERS
1. A physician specializing in diagnosing and treating diseases of the skin and nails is known as a(n):
a. dentist
b. obstetrician
c. dermatologist
d. plastic surgeon
2. What is the maximum percentage of acid that the EMDA allows estheticians to use in AHAs?
a. 10%
b. 20%
c. 30%
d. 40%
3. The EMDA does NOT allow estheticians to use an AHA with a pH lower than:
a. 1.0
b. 2.0
c. 3.0
d. 4.0
4. Which type of peel uses trichloroacetic acid (TCA)?

a. light
b. medium-depth
c. medium/deep-depth
d. deep
5. Which type of peel uses phenol, the strongest of the chemical peel solutions?
a. light
b. deep
c. medium-depth
d. medium/deep-depth
6. A fat injection is also called a(n):

a. rhinoplasty
b. dermabrasion
c. laser resurfacing
d. microlipoinjection
7. Which of the following is a naturally occurring protein that is a component of human skin, joints,
bones and ligaments?
a. fat
b. phenol
c. collagen
d. bovine collagen
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Brain Conditioners
8. All of the following are side-effects of collagen or fat injections EXCEPT:

a. swelling
b. nausea
c. mild redness
d. excess fullness
9. Which procedure is used to treat sunken cheeks, laugh lines, skin depressions or indentations,
forehead wrinkles or to enlarge lips?
a. fat injection
b. chemical peel
c. Botox® injection
d. cosmetic surgery
10. All of the following statements are true about dermabrasion EXCEPT:
a. requires client to be anesthetized
b. must be performed by a physician
c. ointment may be prescribed to ease tightness
d. is not as invasive as exfoliation
11. Normal activities may be resumed after what period of time following a blepharoplasty procedure:
a. immediately
b. 2 – 3 days
c. 4 – 6 days
d. 7 – 10 days
12. The surgical procedure that improves uneven skin textures, due to acne, facial scars and
fine wrinkles, by mechanically scraping off the top layers of skin is called:
a. fat injection
b. dermabrasion
d. collagen injection
13. Which of the following is NOT a side-effect of dermabrasion?

a. redness
b. excess fullness
c. formation of milia
d. lightening of treated skin
14. What is the term for aesthetic and reconstructive procedures?

a. dermabrasion
b. chemical peel
d. cosmetic surgery
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Brain Conditioners
15. The procedure performed to restore the functioning of body parts or to correct a deformity
that may be the result of a birth defect, burn, injury or trauma to the skin, tissue, nerves
or muscles is known as:
a. dermabrasion
b. chemical peel
d. reconstructive surgery
16. Which of the following is known as eyelid surgery and is used to remove excess fat,
skin or muscle to form the upper and lower eyelids?
a. rhinoplasty
b. rhytidectomy
c. blepharoplasty
d. laser resurfacing
17. Which type of cosmetic surgery is recommended for individuals whose face and neck
have begun to sag but still have some facial skin elasticity and good bone structure?
a. rhytidectomy
b. chemical peel
c. blepharoplasty
18. Results of rhytidectomy include all of the following EXCEPT:

a. reduction of jowls
b. making loose neck skin more taut
c. improvement of sagging facial skin
d. improvement of irregularities from acne scars and wrinkles
19. Which type of cosmetic surgery uses a beam of highly focused light to vaporize the upper
layers of damaged skin at specific and controlled levels of penetration?
a. rhytidectomy
b. dermabrasion
c. blepharoplasty
20. Which of the following types of lasers removes the affected portion of the epidermis to
heat the papillary dermis to regenerate collagen?
a. ablative
b. non-ablative
c. carbon monoxide
d. short pulsed erbium
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21. Which type of laser penetrates the epidermis, usually without affecting it, to treat the
papillary dermis below?
a. ablative
b. non-ablative
c. carbon dioxide
d. long pulsed erbium
22. All of the following are side-effects of laser resurfacing EXCEPT:

a. excessive tearing
b. temporary swelling
c. lightening of treated areas
d. increased sensitivity to sun and makeup
23. Approximately how many weeks should a laser resurfacing patient wait before returning to
normal activities?
a. 1 week
b. 2 weeks
c. 3 weeks
d. 4 weeks
24. Cosmetic surgery to reshape the nose is referred to as:

a. rhinoplasty
b. rhytidectomy
c. blepharoplasty
25. The six signs of infection include pain, swelling, redness, local fever, throbbing and:
a. pus
b. itching
c. burning
d. sallowness
26. Which type of post-operative complication develops when microbes invade an injured, open
or wounded part of the body?
a. conjunctivitis
b. yeast infection
c. herpetic infection
d. bacterial infection
27. A superficial infection that occurs on moist areas of the skin is called a(n):
a. conjunctivitis
b. yeast infection
c. herpetic infection
d. bacterial infection
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28. An extremely contagious bacterial infection that affects the membrane that lines
the eyelids is known as:
a. ecchymosis
b. conjunctivitis
c. yeast infection
d. herpetic infection
29. Which of the following is a highly contagious viral infection that is triggered when the
body or skin is placed under extreme stress?
a. ecchymosis
b. conjunctivitis
c. yeast infection
d. herpetic infection
30. The clinical term for bruising of the skin is known as:
a. scarring
b. erythema
c. ecchymosis
d. conjunctivitis
31. Which of the following descriptions of care would be recommended for a first-degree burn?
a. apply butter
b. apply aloe vera
c. break the blister
d. perform skin graft
32. To care for second-degree burns, the burned area should be:
a. treated with aloe vera
b. treated with an ointment
c. immersed in cool water
d. covered tightly with sterile gauze
33. A procedure that takes a section of healthy skin from an unburned area of the body and
surgically reattaches it, covering the burned area to try to re-grow skin is referred to as:
a. rhinoplasty
b. ecchymosis
c. rhytidectomy
d. skin grafting
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34. The most severe of the burns, the one that damages or destroys underlying tissue, exposes
nerve endings and burns fat, muscle and bone, is known as:
a. first-degree burn
b. second-degree burn
c. third-degree burn
d. fourth-degree burn
35. Which type of medication is frequently used to relieve skin from itching and hives?
a. antibiotics
b. keratolytic
c. antibacterial
d. antihistamine
36. An example of a systemic medication would be:

a. keratolytic
b. antibiotic
c. antibacterial
37. Which of the following is NOT an example of a systemic medication?

a. accutane
b. antibiotic
c. keratolytic
d. antihistamine
38. Which of the following is NOT considered a topical medication?

a. antibiotic
b. keratolytic
c. antibacterial
39. Extended use of which of the following medications may cause skin dryness and dehydration?
a. keratolytic
b. antibacterial
c. antihistamine
40. The procedures that may be legally performed, as defined by a regulatory

agency, are referred to as the:
a. network
b. scope of practice
c. esthetic procedures
d. professional procedures
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Brain Conditioners
41. Q: A:
42. Q: A:
43. Q: A:
BONUS QUESTION!
44.
ESSAY QUESTION:
45a. Describe three different types of medical procedures performed by physicians that are related to the
esthetics profession.
One example of a medical procedure is chemical peel, which uses a chemical solution to exfoliate the surface of
the skin, promote cell turnover and induce desquamation (shedding, peeling, or coming off in scales) of the
stratum corneum. Another type is collagen and fat injections that fill in creased, furrowed or sunken
facial skin, lines and wrinkles. Finally, Botox® injections block nerve impulses and temporarily paralyze muscles
that cause facial wrinkles.
45b. In your opinion, what is the most important fact to remember when working under
your esthetics license?
The most important fact to remember when working under an esthetics license is that treatment can only be
applied to the epidermis.
45c. Identify various ways to gain additional and advanced training to become qualified
to work in a medical setting.
Additional training and education can be obtained through a network of professional and industry connections,
such as a medical facility, product manufacturer, professional association or at a number of educational
institutions that offer continuing education or advanced medical esthetics training.
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1. page 510 21. page 517

2. page 511 22. page 517
3. page 511 23. page 517
4. page 511 24. page 518
5. page 512 25 page 519
6. page 513 26. page 519
7. page 513 27. page 519
8. page 513 28. page 519
9. page 513 29. page 519
10. page 515 30. page 520
11. page 516 31. page 520
12. page 514 32. page 520
13. page 515 33. page 520
14. page 510 34. page 520
15. page 510 35. page 521
16. page 515 36. page 521
17. page 516 37. page 521
18. page 516 38. page 521
19. page 517 39. page 521
20. page 517 40. page 524
NOTES TO MYSELF My Reflections About Estheticians in the Medical Field

things you found difficult to learn, and suggestions
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GLOSSARY
A Active ingredients – Chemicals, such as alkaloids or

glucosides, that give plants their healing properties
Abducent (ab-DEW-sunt) nerve – Also known as
the sixth cranial nerve; motor nerve that controls Active listening – Listening strategy that involves
motion of the eye the whole body—ears, eyes and intellect
Abductor (ab-DUK-tor) muscles – Muscles of the Active stage – Also known as the vegetative stage;
hand that allow fingers to spread apart and separate the stage of rapid bacterial growth and reproduction
Ablative laser – Facial treatment that removes Acute – Term used to identify conditions that are
the affected portion of the epidermis to heat the intense and severe; implies a rapid onset
papillary dermis, which regenerates collagen Adductor (ah-DUK-tor) muscles – Muscles of the
Accessory (ack-SES-uh-ree) nerve – Also known as hand that draw the fingers together
the eleventh cranial nerve; motor nerve that controls Adipocyte (AD-ih-poe-site) cells – Cells containing
motion of neck muscles fat used for energy production; found in the
Acupressure – Advanced massage technique that subcutaneous layer of the skin
involves applying pressure to specific points on Adipose (AD-eh-poz) cells – Cells providing
the body insulation from and absorption of mechanical
Acupuncture – Medical treatment in which specific forces; located in the subcutaneous layer of the skin
body areas are pierced with fine needles to relieve Advertising – Marketing strategies that incorporate
pain or produce regional anesthesia all activities that attract attention to your skin care
Accutane® – Medication, also known as center and create a positive impression; projects an
Isotretinoin; derivative of Vitamin A prescribed for image and tells the public about the skin care center –
severe, disfiguring cases of acne and certain other the services offered, the quality of service and
skin diseases any other reasons that clients should patronize
the center
Acid – Solution containing positively charged ions
Aerosol – Product packaged under pressure and
Acid balanced – Measurement indicating balance
blended with a propellant (gas) inside a container,
within the acid range of 4.5 to 5.5
usually a can
Acid mantle – Protective barrier of the skin formed
Affusion therapy – Also known as Vichy shower
by a mixture of sebum and sweat combined with
treatment, Scotch hose treatment or jet blitz
lipids, minerals and moisture
treatment; treatment in which showerheads are
Acne – Skin condition caused by overactivity of positioned along the spine and the client is sprayed
sebaceous glands; characterized by the presence with water, seawater or mineral water, any of which
of blackheads, whiteheads, papules and pustules; may be infused with herbs or essential oils
generally occurs in adolescence
Agreement – Phase three of Client Consultation
Acne treatment – Topical therapies and in which the esthetician summarizes and makes
medications, oral medications and various other sure that the client agrees with the recommended
treatments, all of which can be done individually or treatments
in conjunction with each other
AIDS abbr. Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome
Acoustic (uh-KOOS-tik) nerve – Also called the – Highly infectious disease caused by HIV, which
auditory (AW-di-tor-ee) or eighth cranial nerve; interferes with the body’s natural immune system
controls sense of hearing and causes it to break down
Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome (AIDS) – Airbrushing – Method of makeup application in
See AIDS which pigment is applied by a stream of air that
Actinic keratosis (AK-tin-ec CAR-a-toe-sis) – pushes pigment out of a gun-like implement with
Irregularly shaped, scaly, red-pink skin growths the use of a compressor; creates a flawless, smooth
that feel rough to the touch and occur on appearance and is regularly used for theatrical
sun-exposed areas performances, high-fashion runways, art form
Active electrode – Electrode held by the skin care designs, and high-definition television
specialist during a treatment
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GLOSSARY
Albinism (AL-bin-izm) – Congenital disease that Anhidrosis (an-heye-DROH-sis) – Body condition

results in the failure of the skin to produce melanin that identifies a lack of perspiration caused by
Algotherapy – Therapeutic treatment that uses failure of the sweat glands
marine plants to cleanse and revitalize the skin Anode – Positively charged electrode
and body Anterior (an-TEER-ee-er) – Term that means front,
Alkaline – Solution of negatively charged ions in front, in front of
Alkaloid – Organic compound with medicinal Anterior auricular artery – Artery that supplies
attributes blood to the anterior part of the ear
Allergen – Substance or ingredient likely to cause Anterior dilatator naris – One of four muscles of the
an allergic reaction nose; helps control contraction and expansion of the
Allergy – Physical condition causing sensitivity nostrils
to develop from contact with normally harmless Antibacterial – Ingredient that destroys bacteria
substances, such as fragrances or colorings; that can cause undesirable effects, such as acne or
symptoms may include itching, redness, swelling other infections
and/or blisters Antibacterial medication – Topical medication
Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) – Chemical ingredient applied to kill bacteria and prevent them
with the carboxyl group located on the first carbon from reproducing
atom of the organic acid chain Antibiotic – Systemic medication used to treat
Alternating current – Rapid oscillating cycle that a variety of conditions; primarily used to kill or
alternates back and forth, allowing electrons to flow prevent the growth of bacteria
first in one direction, then in the other Antigen – Foreign substances, such as bacteria,
Amino acid – Compound consisting of carbon, viruses, parasites or toxic materials that provoke an
oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen that join together in immune response in the body
chains to form proteins Antihistamine – Systemic medication prescribed
Amp – Short for ampere; unit of electric strength to relieve uncomfortable skin conditions, such as
Amp rating – Measurement indicating the number itching and hives
of electrons flowing through a particular line Anti-inflammatory medication – Topical medication
Anabolism (ah-NAB-oh-lizm) – Process of building used to treat inflammatory conditions, such
up larger molecules from smaller ones as dermatitis
Anagen – First and longest phase of hair growth; Anti-inflammatory oil – Oil used to reduce
phase in which the hair actively grows inflammation and soothe swollen muscles
Analgesic oil – Medicinal oil used to help deaden Antioxidant – Ingredient used in certain types of
surface pain treatment products to prevent skin inflammation
and damage due to free radicals
Analogous color scheme – Art principle that uses
three colors adjacent to each other on the color Antioxidant oil – Oil that helps fight skin-ravaging
wheel; often used for daytime makeup design free radicals
Anaphoresis – Skin treatment that allows an Antiseptic – Solution that assists in preventing the
alkaline solution to enter the skin when assisted growth of bacteria on the skin
by Galvanic Current and the negative pole of Antiseptic oil – Oil that helps destroy bacteria and
an electrode heal skin eruptions
Anatomy – Study of the organs and systems of Antiseptic preparation – Sanitizing solution used
the body on the skin prior to service; removes buildup on the
Androgen – Male hormone present in both men body from deodorants, body lotions and oils
and women Apocrine gland – Sweat gland located under the
Angular artery – Artery supplying blood to the sides arm, in the genital area and the nipple; secretes an
of the nose odorless substance, which is triggered by emotions
rather than hormones

GLOSSARY
Aponeurosis (ap-o-noo-ROH-sis) – Tendon that Auricularis (aw-rik-ya-LA-ris) superior muscle –

connects the frontalis muscle and the occipitalis Muscle located above the ear
muscle to form the epicranius Auriculo temporal (aw-RIK-u-lo TEM-po-ral) nerve –
Apprentices – Term describing new estheticians Nerve extending from the ear to an area from the
that assist experienced staff members until they top of the head to the temple
attain a satisfactory level of performance with Autoclave sterilizer – Pressurized, steam-heated
procedures and practices within the skin care center piece of skin care equipment that sterilizes objects
Aromatherapy – Therapeutic treatment that involves with high pressure and heat, or pressurized steam,
the use of essential oils killing all microorganisms
Aromatherapy oil – Essential oil that is highly Autologous fat transplantation – Also called fat
fragranced for specific outcomes injection or microlipoinjection; a procedure in
Artery – Tubular, elastic, thick-walled branching which fat is removed with a syringe from a “donor
blood vessel that carries oxygenated blood away site,” such as the patient’s abdomen, thigh or
from the heart through the body buttock, and injected into the area to be treated
Artificial eyelashes – Strip or individual lashes for Autonomic nervous system – One of the three
the eye; used to create a more dramatic makeup subsystems in the nervous system; controls
design or add density to sparse lashes the respiratory, digestive, circulatory, excretory,
endocrine and reproductive systems; governs all
Ask, Analyze and Assess – Phase two of Client involuntary body functions, such as breathing,
Consultation; guided dialogue that invites clients to blinking, sweating and digesting
share their expectations as well as their reasons for
requesting services Axons (AK-sonz) – Also called processes; threadlike,
fibrous part of a nerve extending from the cell
Asset – All the property a person owns
Ayurveda – An ancient science of health and
Asteatosis (as-tee-ah-TOH-sis) – Also called xerosis; medicine that utilizes aromatic massage oils
dry, scaly skin caused by reduced sebum production
Azaleic acid – Acid that promotes drying and cell
Astringent – Skin care product used to help further turnover
cleanse the skin while properly balancing the pH;
also called toner or skin refiner
Astringent oils – Skin care product that temporarily B
tightens tissue and reduces secretion Bacilli (ba-SIL-eye) – The most common form of
Asymptomatic carrier – Person that carries disease- bacterial cells; bar or rod-shaped cells that can
producing bacteria or viruses with no recognizable produce a variety of diseases including tetanus,
symptoms of the disease bacterial influenza, typhoid fever, tuberculosis
Atom – Smallest complete unit of an element and diphtheria
Atomic number – Number of protons in a single Bacteria – Also called germs or microbes; one-celled
atom of an element microorganisms that are either disease-producing or
non-disease producing
Atomizer – Also referred to as a spray machine; an
automated spraying device used to achieve a more Bacterial infection – Disease developed when
thorough cleansing or toning microbes invade an injured, open or wounded part
of the body
Atopic dermatitis – Hereditary rash or an
inflammation of the skin characterized by dry, Bacteriology – The study of bacteria
sensitive, irritated skin Barba – Thick, coarse hair that grows on the face to
Attitude – Feeling or emotion toward something or form a beard
someone; person’s manner or disposition
Auricularis (aw-rik-ya-LA-ris) anterior muscle –
Muscle located in front of the ear
Auricularis (aw-rik-ya-LA-ris) posterior muscle –
Muscle located behind the ear

GLOSSARY
Barbae folliculitis – Also called ingrown hair; a hair Bloodborne pathogen – Bacteria or virus that
that grows from underneath into the surrounding flow through the blood or body fluids and cause
tissue rather than through the follicle out to infectious diseases
the surface of the skin, resulting in a bump or Bloodborne Pathogen Standard – Regulation that
inflammation; can occur when the hair curls and should be followed for all tools and implements that
continues growing back into the skin have come into contact with blood or body fluids;
Basal (BAY-zel) cells – Cells that divide and produce requires the use of an EPA-registered, hospital-level
new cells to replace skin cells that have been shed disinfectant that is labeled as effective against HIV
Basal cell carcinoma (car-sin-O-ma) – Common and HBV or tuberculocidal
malignant lesion that tends to appear translucent, Blood platelets (PLATE-lets) – Also called
has irregular borders and tiny blood vessels running thrombocytes (THROM-bo-sites); cells that begin
through it the process of coagulation, or clotting, when
Base – A chemical solution that releases negatively exposed to air or trauma in the skin tissue, such
charged hydroxide ions as bruising
Belly – The midsection of the muscle, between the Blood vessel – Any vessel through which blood
two attached sections circulates in the body
Benefit – A result that an ingredient delivers to Blush – Cosmetic product sometimes referred to as
enhance the appearance or improve the condition of rouge or cheek color; used to add color to the face,
the client’s skin especially to the cheek area
Benign growth – Also called mole; regularly shaped Body scrub – Mechanical exfoliant used to remove
skin growth; harmless collection of pigmented cells; dead skin cells and produce smooth, soft, healthy
can be raised or flat skin
Benzoyl Peroxide – Ingredient used to dry Body wrap – Popular body treatment that
and exfoliate creates temporary tightness due to absorption
and compaction; when wrapped tightly, body
Beta hydroxy acid – Ingredient with the carboxyl sweats, which in turn causes the skin to lie flatter
group located on the second carbon atom of the against underlying muscles
chain
Boil – Also called a furuncle; painful infection of a
Bicep (BI-sep) – Primary muscle in the front of the hair follicle and adjacent subcutaneous tissue that
upper arm; raises the forearm, bends the elbow and appears as a firm nodule with a central, hard,
turns the palm of the hand down pus-filled core
Bikini wax – Waxing service that removes unwanted Bones – Body’s hardest structures with a
hair that appears along the panty line, but does not composition that is two-thirds mineral matter and
include the pubic area one-third organic matter
Biochemistry – Study of chemical reactions, such Botanical – Cosmetic ingredient; general
as growth, reproduction and respiration, that occur classification for a wide variety of natural or
within a living organism naturally derived ingredients extracted from plants
Blackhead – Open follicle with a black surface plug, Brazilian wax – Waxing service; removes all pubic
which has been oxidized and discolored due to the hair entirely
sebum’s contact with the air
Broad-spectrum disinfectant – Formerly known as
Blend method – Method of electrolysis that a hospital-level disinfectant; germicidal, fungicidal,
combines Galvanic and short-wave current pseudomonacidal and virucidal and must be
Blepharoplasty (BLEF-a-row-PLAS-tee) – Eyelid effective against HIV and HBV or tuberculocidal
surgery to remove excess fat, skin or muscle from Bromidrosis (broh-mih-DROH-sis) – Sometimes
the upper and lower eyelids called osmidrosis; a foul-smelling perspiration
Blood – Sticky, salty fluid that circulates through the caused by the yeast and bacteria that break down the
body, bringing nourishment and oxygen to all body sweat on the surface of skin
parts and carrying toxins and waste products to the Bronchi (bron-KEE) – Also called bronchial tree;
liver and kidneys to be eliminated deliver air directly to the lungs

GLOSSARY
Brush – Implement used to apply makeup; specific products from the cells to the veins
to product types Capilli – Hair that grows on the scalp
Brush cleaner – Makeup supplement that cleanses, Carbohydrate – Major energy source found in whole
sanitizes and maintains brushes grains, vegetables, fruits, legumes, nuts and seeds;
Buccal (BUK-al) branch – Branch of facial nerve that should account for 45 to 65% of daily nutrient
extends to the muscles of the mouth intake; used in body to store energy
Buccinator (BUK-si-na-ter) – Muscle located Carbonic gas spray – A high-powered spray that
between the jaws and cheek; compresses the cheek results in a deep pore cleansing for oily and
to release air outward, as in blowing acne-prone skin; commonly used after extraction
Bulla (BOO-la) – Lesion similar to a vesicle, but or suction
larger, found above and below the skin; contains a Carbuncle (KAR-bun-kel) – Sebaceous gland
clear watery fluid; also known as a blister disorder; group of boils; very painful acute bacterial
Burn – Damage or injury to the skin by fire, heat, infection characterized by inflammation that
radiation, electricity or a caustic agent, such as involves several hair follicles and the adjacent
a chemical subcutaneous tissue
Burr – Tool with an abrasive rotating attachment Cardiac muscle – Muscle of the heart itself and
used to scrape away the surface of the skin the only muscle of its type in the human body;
functions involuntarily
Business card – Card printed with a company logo,
name, address and phone number given to current Cardiovascular system – Also known as the blood
and potential clients vascular system; includes the heart, arteries, veins
and capillaries; circulates the blood
Business plan – Central company document that
owner and employees use to make decisions Carpals (KAR-pels) – Eight small bones held
together by ligaments to form the wrist or carpus
Carpal Tunnel Syndrome – Condition caused by
C tendonitis in which the tendons swell, pinch the
Calibration – Adjustment of settings on a piece of nerve in the carpal tunnel making the hand numb
equipment so that it operates safely according to the and weak
manufacturer’s instructions and within tolerances Carrier oil – Neutral oil, most often grape seed,
set forth by state law almond, apricot kernel, jojoba or olive; used to
Calming mask – Component of a facial procedure dilute an essential oil
that calms and soothes sensitive or irritated skin Cartilage – Connective tissue that lines the parts of
Calorie – Unit measuring energy found in food the bones that would otherwise rub against each
other in joints
Camouflage makeup – Makeup application used
to normalize the appearance of clients who have Catabolism (kah-TAB-oh-lizm) – Process of
experienced disfigurement from surgery, an breaking down larger molecules or substances
accident, disease or a congenital condition into smaller ones
Candida (kan-deed-ah) – Also known as yeast Catagen – Transitional and shortest phase of hair
infection; superficial infections that occur on moist growth cycle; phase in which the hair begins to
areas of the skin destroy itself as it disconnects from the papilla
Candida albicans (kan-deed-ah ALL-be-kanz) – Cataphoresis – Type of phoresis that allows an acidic
Common skin infection caused by yeast solution to enter the skin when assisted by Galvanic
Current and the positive pole of an electrode
Caninus (kay-NEYE-nus) – Also known as the
levator anguli oris; muscle located above the Cathode – Negatively charged electrode
corners of the mouth; raises the angle of the mouth, Cell – Body structure considered the basic unit
as in snarling of life
Capillary – Small vessel that takes nutrients and Cell membrane – Outer surface and enclosing
oxygen from the arteries to the cells and takes waste structure of the cell

GLOSSARY
Cellulite – Deposit of fat, water and waste materials Chemical depilatory – Painless hair removal method
trapped between skin fibers that dissolves the hair at skin level
Cellulite massage treatment – Skin treatment Chemical exfoliant – Product consisting of a natural
used to reduce the appearance of cellulite by substance, such as an enzyme or alpha hydroxy
increasing circulation acid; works in conjunction with other ingredients
Cellulite wrap – Skin treatment that softens or to cause a chemical reaction that removes dead
eliminates the appearance of cellulite by increasing skin cells
circulation and making skin look firmer; encourages Chemical exfoliation – Process of using natural
the body to release toxins and excess fluids that may substances, such as enzymes or alpha hydroxy acid
be trapped in the tissues in conjunction with other ingredients to cause a
Central nervous system – Also called the chemical reaction to remove dead skin cells
cerebrospinal nervous system; composed of the Chemical peel – Chemical solution used to exfoliate
brain and spinal cord; controls all voluntary and the surface of the skin, promote cell turnover and
involuntary body action induce desquamation of the stratum corneum
Cerebellum (ser-e-BEL-um) – Structure of the brain Chemical symbol – Notation that describes atoms in
that regulates motor function, muscle movement a molecule
and balance; located in the occipital area directly Chemiclave – Machine that sterilizes surgical
below the cerebrum instruments with high-pressure, high-temperature
Cerebrum (se-REE-brum) – Large, rounded water vapor, alcohol and formaldehyde vapor
structure of the brain that occupies the upper front Chemist – Scientist who studies matter, its
part of the cranial cavity; center of higher mental
properties and changes
functions, such as thought, emotion and memory
Chemistry – Scientific study of matter, the physical
Cervical (SUR-vi-kal) branch – Body structure
and chemical changes affecting matter and the
extending to the muscles on the side of the neck
energy changes that accompany those processes
Cervical cutaneous (SUR-vi-kal ku-TA-ne-us) nerve –
Chemotherapy – Radiation treatment that may
Nerve that extends into the side and front of the
heighten a client’s sensitivity and cause thinning of
neck to the breastbone
the skin
Cervical vertebrae (SUR-vi-kel VURT-e-bray) –
Chiaroscuro (key-ar-o-SKU-ro) – Art of arranging
The seven bones that form the top part of the
light and dark so as to produce the illusion of three-
spinal column
dimensional shapes
Chamomile – Ingredient that can be used for
Chloasma (kloh-AZ-mah) – Also called melasma
any skin condition or in any treatment; provides
(MEL-AZ-mah); common skin condition in
soothing, healing, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and
pregnant women that results in increased
antimicrobial benefits
pigmentation causing flat, light-to-dark patches to
Chelating agent – Ingredient added to a product to occur on the face
enhance the effectiveness of the preservative
Chronic – Term used to identify conditions that are
Chemical behavior – Reactivity of an atom frequent and continuing, persisting for a period of
Chemical bond –Any of several forces or three months or more
mechanisms by which atoms are bound in Chucking – Massage manipulation; form of friction
a molecule used on the arms and body; performed by holding
Chemical burn – Skin condition; burn or the client’s arm in one hand and lifting the skin
burning sensation to a client’s skin caused by firmly up and down over the bone with the
certain chemicals other hand
Chemical change – Process that occurs in a Cilia (SIL-ee-a) – Hair-like projections found in the
substance and creates a new substance with cells used to move cells with a wave-like motion;
different material characteristics from those of the type of hair found in eyelashes
original substance

GLOSSARY
Circuit breaker – Safety device that breaks the flow Closed path – Electrical circuit; path on which
of current when an overload occurs; contains two the electricity leaves the source and travels to an
pieces of metal that make contact with each other to appliance in order to power it
allow the flow of electric current Closing the sale – Selling strategy that involves
Circulatory system – Also known as the vascular presenting a product and asking for a commitment
system; body system that controls the circulation of Cocci (KOK-sigh) – Spherical or round-shaped
blood and lymph through the body bacterial cells that appear singularly or in groups
Clavicle (KLAV-i-kel) – Also known as the Co-Enzyme Q-10 – known as ubiquinone; powerful
collarbone; bone that runs across the chest between antioxidant that occurs naturally in human cells
the shoulders
Cold sore – Highly contagious viral infection
Clay/Mud mask – Component of a facial procedure; triggered when the body or skin is placed under
facial mask rich in minerals, clay and mud derived extreme stress, such as a laser treatment
from the earth; absorbs excess oil, tightens and
refines the pores and aids in preventing clogging Collagen – Fibrous protein substance that forms
bundles that strengthen and give structure to
Cleanser/makeup remover – Solution that removes components of the human body, including skin,
dirt, makeup and impurities joints, bones and ligaments
Cleansing – First step in a daily skin care Collagen injection – Injections of collagen into a
regimen; designed to remove dirt, oil, makeup and treatment site using a fine needle inserted at
environmental pollutants from the surface of several points
the skin
Coloring agent – Vegetable, mineral or pigment dye
Cleansing crème – Solution that removes impurities added to products to enhance their appearance
from the skin
Color wheel – Circular diagram in which the 12
Client care – Also known as personal care; method colors, (three primary, three secondary and 6
of caring for clients tertiary), are positioned in a circle; position on the
Client Consultation – Communication exchange in wheel demonstrates the relationship of each color to
which skin care provider offers expert advise based the primary colors
on the personal needs of the client Combination skin – Skin type that displays both dry
Client Consultation Form – Form filled out at the and oily areas; most common skin type
beginning of each visit that helps the esthetician Comedogenic – Ingredient likely to block or clog
obtain information pertinent to the facial procedure pores and contribute to pimples
Clientele – Description identifying client base Comedogenicity – Tendency to clog
developed and maintained by an esthetician;
consists of both the clients you serve repeatedly Comedone extractor – Metal implement used to
as well as those that you try to “recruit” as ease the removal of comedones
repeat customers Commission – Employee compensation based on
Client Release Statement – Form that gives the a percentage of the dollar income the individual
esthetician permission to treat clients based on the esthetician generates by serving clients and
information they have provided during consultation; selling products
may protect the skin care center, esthetics business Common carotid (kah-ROT-id) arteries (CCA) –
owner or individual esthetician from some claims Arteries located on either side of the neck; supply
related to accidents in the skin care center or blood to the head, face and neck; split into the
damage that may occur to the client’s skin as a internal carotid artery (ICA) and the external carotid
result of services provided artery (ECA)
Closed Comedo – Also called a whitehead; Communicable disease – Also known as contagious
sebaceous gland whose opening is partially plugged illness; condition capable of being transmitted from
or not widely dilated person to person as well as from animal to human;
communicable by casual contact

GLOSSARY
Communication – Exchange of thought, verbally Contaminated – Term that identifies objects

or nonverbally containing pathogens; not free from dirt, oil
Comparison shopping – Process of visiting and/or microbes
competitors to compare their business practices to Continuing education credits (CEUs) – Required
your own number of educational credits earned each year as a
Compensation – Earnings paid to an employee; part of the licensure agreement
compensation package includes benefits Contour – Process of creating an outline, especially
Complementary color scheme – Art principle that of a curving or irregular figure or shape
uses colors directly across from each other on Contraction – Tightening movement of a muscle in
the color wheel to achieve the greatest amount of which the insertion of the muscle moves while the
contrast; often used to enhance eye color origin remains fixed
Completion – Final phase of Client Consultation in Contraindication – Condition signaling that it is
which the esthetician solicits feedback, recommends inadvisable to perform an esthetics procedure
a home care regimen and retail products, schedules Convection – Transfer of heat via liquid or gas
the client’s next appointment and expresses
appreciation while saying goodbye Converter – Instrument used to change direct
current to alternating current
Complimentary consultation – Brief 15-minute
interview that allows the opportunity to become Cool color – Color tone classification containing
familiar with a potential new client, discover what blue undertones; generally categorized in the blue
his or her skin care needs are and share options and green half of the color wheel
available to make a difference on the client’s skin Cool undertone – Color tone classification that
Compound – Combination created by chemically contains blue/violet or reddish/red-violet undertone
uniting two different elements Co-op promotion – Advertising technique
Concealer – Makeup product that includes crème, combining one’s own business promotional efforts
liquid, stick and pot formulations used to correct and dollars with non-competitive businesses, shops
particular facial imperfections and stores into a single campaign
Conchae (KONG-kee) – Mucus membrane Corporation – Type of business ownership in

that warms inhaled air as it passes through the which a group of people form a legal entity,
nasal passages separate from its members, formed under legal
guidelines; has a charter describing the purposes of
Conduction – The transfer of heat via direct contact the corporation and the structure of the company,
Conductor – Material through which electricity can owned by its shareholders
flow easily Correspondence – Marketing strategy in which
Conjunctivitis – Also known as pink eye; extremely the professional sends thank-you cards to clients
contagious bacterial infection that affects the after appointments, calls new clients after first
membrane that lines the eyelids visit to follow up, mails out reminder notes a week
Connective tissue – Tissue that supports, protects prior to appointments or calls the day before an
and holds the body together appointment to offer a friendly reminder
Consultation – A meeting with the client to Corrugator (KOR-e-gat-er) – Muscle located
determine the client’s needs and expectations under the eyebrows; causes eyebrows to draw in
and to explain what will be best for the skin and and downward
its appearance Cosmetic – Descriptive term for articles intended
Contact dermatitis – Rash caused either by an to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or
allergic reaction from contact with substances, introduced onto or otherwise applied to the human
such as dyes, detergents, nickel, fabrics or plants, body or as part thereof for cleansing, beautifying,
or by non-allergic irritation from contact with promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance,
these substances and articles intended for use as a component of
any such articles; except that such a term shall not
Contagious – Disease that is communicable by include soaps; as defined by the FFDCA
contact; also known as a communicable disease

GLOSSARY
Cosmetic ingredient allergen – Color and fragrance Customer service – Process of personal attention
that can cause an allergic reaction to meet the needs of the client by displaying a
Cosmetic surgeon – Also known as a plastic willingness to show concern for a client’s personal
surgeon; medical doctor who specializes in cosmetic well-being
and/or reconstructive surgery Customizing – Strategy for finding the appropriate
Cosmetic surgery – Also called plastic or product to fit the needs of the client
reconstructive surgery; medical procedure Cyclomethicone – Non-comedogenic emollient that
performed for aesthetic and reconstructive purposes gives products a silky feel
Couperose – Skin condition that displays fine Cyst (sist) – Skin condition that describes an
dilated capillaries; most frequently found on the abnormal membranous sac containing a gaseous,
cheeks and corner of the nose liquid or semi-solid substance
Covalent bond – Chemical term that identifies the Cytoplasm (SI-to-plazm) – Anatomy term that
sharing of electrons by two atoms describes the production department of the cell,
CPR abbr. cardiopulmonary resuscitation – where organelles are found
Emergency first aid used to restart the heart once it
has stopped
D
Cranial nerves – Twelve pairs of nerves that connect
Decoctions – Mixtures created by boiling loose
the brain directly with other parts of the body,
herbs in water
specifically the face, head and neck
Décolleté (dek-o-LAH-TAY) – Term that identifies
Cranium – Anatomy term used to describe the
the upper chest area
eight bones that enclose and protect the brain and
primary sensory organs Decontaminated – Term that identifies objects from
which pathogens have been removed; free from dirt,
Crème – Most common cosmetic product
oil and/or microbes
type on the market; used to impart emolliency
and moisturization on the skin; has a heavier Deep peel – Medical treatment that uses phenol
consistency and is used when additional coverage to remove dead skin cells; performed by a
is desired medical doctor; affects the dermis more
intensely than medium-depth peel because
Crème mask – Component of a facial procedure
it uses stronger products
that uses a rich and creamy-textured product ideal
for dry skin types; generally rich in moisturizers, Dehydration – Term that identifies a loss of fluids;
humectants and other nutrient-rich ingredients, lack of moisture in the skin characterized by
such as vitamins superficial dryness, flakiness and lines
Crème-to-powder – Also known as powder, “one- Delivery – Phase four of Client Consultation; also
step” or “dual-finish”; cosmetic product that called the “feature/benefit” phase; goals of this
combines makeup base and powder in one phase are to ensure client comfort, educate the
and provides minimum coverage and creates a client, explain what is taking place and attain results
natural effect that satisfy the client’s needs and wants
Critical – Highest level of infection control; required Deltoid (DEL-toid) – Triangular-shaped muscle
for objects coming in contact with sterile tissue or covering the shoulder; lifts the arm or turns it
the vascular system Demand-release chlorine dioxide – Agent that
Cross-contamination – Spread of bacteria by sterilizes after six hours
contaminated equipment, surfaces or food Dendrites (DEN-dritz) – Short fibers extending from
Cross-selling – Strategy used in the marketing or the nerve cell
recommending of a product that complements Depressor (de-PRES-er) – Muscle that draws down
another product the client has already purchased or depresses
Crust – Dried mass that is the remains of an Depressor septi – One of the four muscles located
oozing sore inside the nose; helps control contraction and
expansion of the nostrils

GLOSSARY
Dermabrasion – Skin treatment using a motorized Digital nerve – Nerve of the hand that extends into
rough wire brush or a burr to scrape away the the fingers of the hand
surface of the skin; can reach as deep as the dermis Dilator (DI-la-ter) – Muscle that opens, enlarges
Dermaplaning – Surgical procedure using a or expands
dermatome to remove the surface of the skin that Dimethicone – Silicone oil used to give products
has grown higher around scarred or wrinkled areas; lubricity or “slip”
levels the skin
Dimethicone Copolyol – Silicone ingredient that
Dermascope – An elaborate magnifying mirror/light makes products feel soft, especially sunscreens
that incorporates a black light; also called a skin
scope Diopter – Measurement of the degree
of magnification
Dermatitis – Inflammatory disorder of the skin
Diplococci (dip-lo-KOK-sigh) – Bacterial cells that
Dermatitis Venenata – Allergic reaction to certain grow in pairs and are the cause of certain infections,
cosmetics or chemicals; form of contact dermatitis including pneumonia
that frequently occurs on the skin of professionals
working with wet product Direct current – Constant current in which
electrons move at an even rate and flow in only
Dermatologist – Physician who specializes in one direction
diagnosing and treating diseases of the skin, hair
and nails Direct Faradic Current treatment – Method of
application in which the esthetician places both
Dermatology – Study of the skin, its structure, electrodes on the client’s skin, being certain that the
functions, diseases and treatment electrodes never touch
Dermatome – Oscillating blade Direct High Frequency Current treatment – Method
Dermis – Second layer of the skin; also called the of application in which a skin care specialist uses an
dermal layer, derma, corium, cutis or true skin electrode in direct contact with the client’s skin to
Desincrustation – Process that unblocks clogged deliver antibacterial and drying benefits to the skin
pores, making it easier to remove debris Direct mail advertising – Advertising technique that
Desincrustation facial treatment – Treatment that involves sending postcards or flyers to prospective
utilizes Galvanic Current in conjunction with an clients encouraging them to try a new service
alkaline solution to force the solution deep into Disaccharides – Term describing two saccharides
the skin linked together; carbohydrate or table sugar
Desincrustation solution – Highly alkaline solution Disc – Body structure located between each pair of
that liquifies sebum vertebrae and filled with a jelly-like substance; offers
Desmosomes (DEZ-ma-sohms) – Intercellular flexibility to the neck and back
connections that interconnect keratinocytes Discretionary income – Money available to be
Desquamation – Process in which skin sheds, peels spent freely
or comes off in scales Disinfection – Process of eliminating bacteria,
Diabetes – Medical condition; clients with this viruses and most organisms on inanimate non-
condition may often have a decreased sensitivity porous surfaces
in their hands and feet and may not fully Display – Floor space allocated to exhibit
experience sensations retail merchandise; visual sales tool that lets
Diagnosis – Identification of a disease based on the you be creative
presence of certain characteristics Disposable facial sponge – Sponge that removes
Diaphragm – Muscular organ that separates the product from the face and neck
chest cavity from the abdomen Distributor – “Middleman” who maintains contracts
Digestive system – Body system that breaks food to sell professional products or equipment; acts
down into simpler chemical compounds that can be as a link between the manufacturer and the skin
easily absorbed by cells or eliminated from the body care center
as waste

GLOSSARY
Dome brush – Also called a large fluff or powder Electric mask – Component of a facial procedure
puff; brush used for the application of powder that produces warm moist heat at a comfortable
Drug – Product intended to treat symptoms or cure temperature; used to help soften the skin to aid in
medical conditions, including altering the function deeper pore penetration of products
and/or structure of parts of the human body Electric pulverizer – Unique atomizer that allows
Dry skin – Type of skin lacking adequate sebum for the application of various herbs, extracts or
production; exhibits heightened sensitivity; prone to astringents to the skin in a very fine mist
fine lines and wrinkles Electric treatment mittens and booties – Electrically
Dyschromia – Abnormal pigmentation heated hand and foot covers used to penetrate a
product deeper into the skin
Electrochemical effect – Effect on the skin of the
E passage of electric current through a water-based
Ecchymosis – Clinical term for bruising of the skin solution and onto the body
Eccrine glands – Sweat glands located throughout Electrocution – Severe electric shock that occurs
the entire body; most abundant on the forehead, when the current passes through the nervous
the palms of the hands and soles of the feet; open system, causing the heart and breathing to stop;
directly onto the skin’s surface through pores not also called general shock
associated with hair follicles Electrode – Conductor used to bring current from
Ecology – The scientific study of the relationship of an appliance to the client’s skin
organisms to each other and to their environment Electrologist – Person specializing in electrolysis
Eczema – Skin condition characterized by dry or Electrolysis – Method of hair removal that requires
moist lesions, an eruption of small vesicles and the technician to insert a small needle into each hair
watery discharge follicle, at the angle of the follicle and alongside the
Edema – Skin condition involving the swelling of hair, until it reaches the root
tissue or skin caused by an excessive accumulation Electromagnetic radiation – Wave patterns of
of fluid in the tissue electrons created when heat energy is transferred
Efficacy – Ability to produce results or effectiveness by radiation
Efficacy label –Label required on all disinfectants to Electromagnetic spectrum – The range of all the
inform the user about what organisms the product wavelengths that can be produced by radiant energy
is effective against Electron – Tiny, negatively charged particle that
Effleurage (ef-lure-AH-jh) – Massage movement enables atoms to unite with other atoms to
involving a light, relaxing, smooth, gentle, stroking form bonds
or circular movement carried out with the pads of Electrotherapy – Application of electrical currents
the fingertips or the palms of the hands during treatments to the skin
Elastin – Fibrous protein, similar to collagen; basis Element – Basic unit of matter; cannot be
of what forms elastic tissue broken down into simpler substances by any
Electrical burn – Burn that occurs when flesh comes chemical reaction
into contact with a flow of electrical current; usually EMDA abbr. Esthetic Manufacturers and
the result of faulty equipment or improper use Distribution Alliance – Association that establishes
of equipment procedural guidelines to ensure safety and
Electrical shock – Human contact with an consistency in the use of alpha hydroxyl acids for
electric current chemical peels
Electric current – Flow of electricity along a Emollient (ee-MAHL-ee-ent) – Oil and oil-soluble
conductor; also known as modality substance used to condition and soften the skin by
providing an occlusive barrier
Electricity – Form of energy that produces light,
heat, magnetic and chemical changes

GLOSSARY
Emulsifier – Binding substance used to slow down Epithelial (ep-i-THE-lee-el) tissue – Tissue covering
the destruction of the product and protecting body surfaces and internal organs
Emulsifying agent – Chemical structure with polar Ergonomic – Science that studies the relationship
and non-polar ends allowing compatibility with both between people and their work environment
water and oil due to chemical structure of a polar Erythema – Redness of the skin caused by dilation
and non-polar end; binds ingredients together or congestion of the capillaries; rash
Emulsion – Mixture of two or more nonmixable Esophagus (e-SOF-ah-gus) – Passage between the
substances, such as oil and water, united by small pharynx and the stomach
droplets of a binder or gum-like substance
Essential fatty acid (EFA) – Nutrient that produces
Endocrine gland – Gland that releases secretions hormones and helps protect against heart disease,
into the blood; known as a ductless gland cancer, autoimmune diseases and skin diseases
Endocrine system – Group of specialized ductless Essential oil – Natural cosmetic ingredient distilled
glands that regulates and controls the growth, from plant materials
reproduction and health of the body
Ethics – Rules that determine right and wrong
Energy – The ability to do work to accomplish conduct in relationships with others
some change
Ethmoid (ETH-moid) bone – Spongy bone between
Enfleurage – Process of steeping material in the eyes that forms part of the nasal cavity
odorless oils or fats, which in turn absorb the
material’s fragrance Ethyl Alcohol (70%) – Anti-bacterial, anti-fungal
and antiviral alcohol; but does not destroy
Environmental allergens – Substances, including bacterial spores
pollen, animals and food, that cause increased
sensitivity to products and stimulation of the skin Ethylene Oxide Gas – Sterilization method ideal
for porous or difficult-to-clean, narrow,
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) – channeled implements
Organization in charge of approving the efficacy of
products used for infection control Etiology – Study of the cause of diseases, disorders
or conditions
Enzyme – Ingredient designed to dissolve keratin
proteins on the surface of the skin, resulting in Eucalyptus oil – Essential oil used to treat stiff, sore
exfoliation and softer, smoother skin; material that muscles or to boost circulation; has stimulating,
breaks down large molecules into smaller ones; analgesic, antiseptic, antimicrobial and anti-
secretions from the salivary glands that break down inflammatory properties
food during digestion Evening makeup – Type of makeup that tends to be
Enzyme exfoliator – Product designed to dissolve more dramatic; colors are often deeper and more
dead skin cells; can often tingle or itch intense; these colors help enhance the definition
of facial features in dimmer evening light without
EPA Standards – Guideline requiring efficacy labels creating a look that is too severe
on all disinfectants to inform the user about what
organisms the product is effective against Excoriation (ek-score-ee-AY-shun) – Mechanical
abrasion of the epidermis that occurs when insect
Epicranium (ep-i-KRA-nee-um) – Scalp bites, scabs or acne breakouts are scratched
Epicranius (ep-i-KRA-nee-us) – Broad muscle Excretory system – System that eliminates solid,
covering the scalp or epicranium liquid and gaseous waste products from the body
Epidermis – Outermost layer of the skin; also Exercise – Activities that develop and sustain
referred to as cuticle, scarf skin or epidermal layer muscle tone and help stimulate blood circulation
Epilepsy – Medical condition; clients with this and metabolism, allowing the body to function at
condition should not have any services using optimal performance
electrical current Exfoliation – Process of removing dead skin to
Epithelial (ep-i-THE-lee-el) (ep-eh-THEE-lee-el) cells – stimulate new cell growth
Cells that cover and protect the inside of the body Exfoliator – Makeup product used to remove excess
surface skin cells

GLOSSARY
Exhalation – Respiratory process of breathing out to Eyelash/eyebrow tinting – Technique involving the
eliminate oxygen’s toxic by-product, carbon dioxide darkening of the eyebrows and eyelashes with a
Exocrine gland – Gland that releases secretion into semi-permanent tint product
a duct that deposits the glandular secretion onto the Eyeliner – Product used in makeup application to
surface of the skin accent and emphasize the shape and size of the eyes
Expansion – Relaxing movement of a muscle and to enhance the thickness of the lashes; comes
in liquid, pencil and powder; usually applied at the
Expression – Method of obtaining essential oil by lashline, below the lashes or above the lashes on
squeezing out an ingredient’s fragrant oils the eyelid
Extensor radialis (eks-TEN-sor ray-dee-AHL-is) – Eye shadow – Product used to highlight and
Muscle located mid-forearm, on the outside of the accentuate the color and shape of the eyes; can be
arm; straightens the fingers and wrists used to create more contour or to exaggerate areas,
External carotid artery (ECA) – Artery branching such as the crease; comes in many forms, including
into smaller arteries, supplying blood to the skin crayon, gel, powder and pencil
and muscles of the head
External jugular (JUG-u-lur) vein (EJV) – Vein that
returns blood to the head, face and neck F
External maxillary (EKS-tur-nal MAK-si-ler-ee) artery – Facial (FAY-shul) artery – Also known as the
Also known as the facial artery; supplies blood to external maxillary; artery that supplies blood to the
the lower portion of the face, including the mouth lower portion of the face, including the mouth and
and nose nose
External parasites (PEAR-uh-sights) – Organisms Facial chair – Specialized piece of equipment that
that grow and feed on other living organisms, allows client to be positioned at proper height and
contribute nothing to their host and cause angle for service
contagious diseases Facial nerve – Also known as the seventh cranial
Extraction – Procedure using a chemical solvent, nerve; chief motor nerve of the face that controls the
such as petroleum or ether, to leach the aromatic motion of the face, scalp, neck, ear and sections of
component from an ingredient the palate and tongue
Extrinsic aging – Also known as skin deterioration; Facial steamer – Also known as a facial vaporizer or
aging factor caused by external factors within atomizer; electrical device that sprays a lukewarm,
an individual’s control, sun exposure, smoking diffused vapor mist onto the surface of the facial
and alcohol skin; expands pores for cleansing and softens dead
skin cells for easier removal
Eyebrow pencil/powder – Makeup product that fills
in, defines and/or corrects shape of the eyebrows Fan brush – Brush used to apply product on face
or neck
Eyebrow shaping – Technique removing excess or
unwanted hair from the eyebrow area; essential part Faradic Current – An alternating current (AC),
of grooming which is interrupted to produce a mechanical, non-
chemical reaction
Eyebrow tinting – Process involving darkening the
eyebrows with a semi-permanent tint product Fat injection – Also called autologous fat
transplantation or microlipoinjection; type of
Eyebrow wax – Process of removing eyebrow hair injection removing fat with a syringe from a “donor
using wax to shape and improve the look of the site,” such as the patient’s abdomen, thigh or
entire face buttock and injecting it into the area to be treated
Eye contact – Nonverbal gesture that demonstrates Fats – Source of concentrated energy that provides
undivided attention and personal confidence the body with necessary fatty acids; a healthy diet
Eye crème – Product that supports, moisturizes and includes approximately 30% unsaturated fat
cushions tissue around the eyes Fatty acid – Cosmetic ingredient derived from plant
and animal sources; used as an ingredient to assist
in keeping crèmes and lotions easy to apply

GLOSSARY
Fatty alcohol – Fatty acids that have been exposed Forest blend fragrance – Also known as wood blend;
to hydrogen encompasses many men’s fragrances; combination
Feature – The product’s characteristics, such as of woods, such as sandalwood, pine, eucalyptus,
the size of the container, the aroma or a specific cedar, rosewood or even tobacco
ingredient that makes it effective Foundation – Cosmetic product that evens out
Fibroblast (FI-bro-blast) cells – type of cells skin color and creates a smoother skin texture;
responsible for the formation of fibers; aid in the used to correct undesirable skin tones and conceal
production of collagen and elastin imperfections; often used to achieve the effects of
facial contouring/shading
First-degree burn – Minor burn that affects the
outer layer of skin (epidermis); accompanied by Fragrance – Complex blend of many essential oils
pain, swelling and redness; does not produce and other compounds used to create unique scents
blisters; least severe type of burn Fragrance-free – Term denoting a product with
Fissure (FISH-er) – Crack or line in the skin that less than 1% fragrance added or no added fragrance
may penetrate as deep as the dermis at all
Fitzpatrick Scale – Phototype scale shows how Franchise – Operating license; agreement in which
different skin types react to UV radiation a fee is paid to a parent corporation in exchange
for fixtures, promotion, advertising, education,
Fixative – Oily ingredient that adds a warm, management techniques and name
musky odor and also prevents a fragrance from
quickly evaporating Free electron – Electron in atom’s outermost orbit
that is easily moved from its orbit
Fixed cost – Cost that does not change from month
to month for at least one year; includes the rent or Free radical – Chemically unstable molecule, caused
mortgage payment, salaries and insurance by environmental pollutants and UV exposure;
creates a chain reaction with other components in
Fixed rent – Set dollar amount paid each month to the skin, causing damage and inhibiting proper
the lessor; allows renter to predict monthly expenses functioning within the skin
Flagella (flah-JEL-ah) – Hair-like projections that Frequency – Number of times electrons alternate
move the cells using a wave-like motion direction per second
Flat bones – Plate-shaped bones located in the skull, Friction (FRIK-shun) – Circular or wringing
the scapula, hip bone, sternum, ribs and the patella massage manipulation with no gliding; usually
Flexor ulnaris (FLEX-er uhl-NAR-is) – Muscle performed with the fingertips or palms of the hands
located mid-forearm, on the inside of the arm; Frontal artery – Artery that supplies the forehead
bends the wrist and closes the fingers with blood
Floor plan – Drawing or blueprint depicting the Frontal bone – Bone that extends from the top
various areas, fixtures and operations of the skin of the eyes to the top of the head and forms
care center the forehead
Floral – Fragrances that smell strongly of a single Frontalis (frun-TAL-is) muscle – Muscle that
flower, such as gardenia, orchid, rose, jasmine, extends from the forehead to the top of the skull;
orange blossom, tuberose or freesia raises the eyebrows or draws the scalp forward
Floral bouquet – Fragrances made up of several Fruit blend fragrance – Fresh, often sweet,
floral scents fragrance concocted with the aroma of common and
Fluorescent light – An economical and long-lasting uncommon fruit, such as citrus, apple, melon, pear,
light source that can create “blue” tones or “cool” berry or pomegranate
casts in objects it lights Fulling – Massage movement; form of
Follow-up care – Service necessary in order to petrissage most frequently used during a hand and
guarantee client satisfaction arm massage
Fomentation – A treatment that involves soaking a
clean towel in a liquid and applying it to a specific
area of the body

GLOSSARY
Furuncle (fu-RUN-kel) – Also called a boil; a Glutaraldehyde-based formulations (2%) –

painful infection of a hair follicle and adjacent Disinfectants; lower levels of glutaraldehyde
subcutaneous tissue that appears as a firm nodule phenate are not considered high-level disinfectants
with a central, hard, pus-filled core and must be used at 2%
Fuse – Safety device that prevents electrical wires Glycolic acid – Cosmetic ingredient; form of alpha
from overheating hydroxy acid that is an excellent source of skin
renewal and exfoliation since it has the smallest
molecular structure of all AHAs and can penetrate
G the skin quickly
Galvanic Current – Also known as ionization; the Gomage – Exfoliating treatment in which a layer of
only constant direct current (DC) of low voltage and crème is applied to the skin, allowed to dry and then
high amperage that produces an electrochemical rubbed away
effect; used to force water-soluble skin care products
Grade 1 acne – Mild chronic inflammatory skin
into the epidermis
disorder; consists of open and closed comedones
Galvanic electrolysis method – Also called the scattered over less than half of the areas of the face
“multiple needle” process; permanent hair removal or back
method that destroys the hair by passing a low level
Grade 2 acne – Moderate chronic inflammatory
of current into a needle, resulting in a chemical
skin disorder; consists of an increased number of
reaction that decomposes the papilla; 12 to 14
open and closed comedones as well as an occasional
needles are inserted into individual follicles at
papule or pustule
a time
Grade 3 acne – Moderately severe chronic
Gas – Matter with definite weight, but indefinite
inflammatory skin disorder; characterized by
volume and shape
numerous open and closed comedones, papules,
Gel – A product that has been formulated with a pustules and occasional cysts
thickening agent to increase its viscosity
Grade 4 acne – Severe chronic inflammatory
Gel mask – Component of a facial procedure skin disorder; consists of numerous papules and
applied directly to the skin and designed for a pustules as well as a large number of cysts on the
wide variety of purposes depending upon the face, chest and/or back
ingredients used
Greater auricular – Nerve extending into the side of
General infection – Also called systemic infection; the neck and external ear
medical description of an interference in the body’s
Greater occipital – Nerve extending up the back of
normal state; occurs when the circulatory system
the scalp to the top of the head
carries bacteria and their toxins to all parts of
the body Greeting – Service strategy; Phase one of Client
Consultation; gesture of respect; phase in which
General shock – Term describing electrocution;
the professional tries to make positive personal
passes through the nervous system and causes
impressions when greeting clients
the heart to stop, breathing to cease and the
muscles to convulse Gross anatomy – Study of body structures that can
be seen with the naked eye
Generator – Machine that converts mechanical
energy into electrical energy Ground fault circuit interruptor (GFCI) – Safety
device consisting of an outlet installed in any area
Gift-with-purchase – Promotional strategy; also
where water and electricity could come in contact;
called gift-with-service; clients purchase a treatment
can sense current leakage in an electrical circuit and
or a product at full price and receive a free gift or
will interrupt power if there is contact with water,
service or a discounted product or service
preventing electrical shock
Glossopharyngeal (glos-o-fa-RIN-jee-ul) nerve – Also
Grounding wire plug – Safety device designed to
called the ninth cranial nerve; controls sense of taste
protect the user during the operation of appliances,
Glucoside – Organic compound with especially those in metal cases; contains two
medicinal attributes rectangular prongs and one circular prong

GLOSSARY
H Herpes Simplex (HER-peez SIM-plex) – Highly

contagious viral infection that lies dormant between
Habit – A learned behavior reinforced through
outbreaks; causes an eruptive, blister-like cluster
events in the environment
that is typically found on the mucous membranes or
Hacking – Massage manipulation that resembles a skin around the mouth, nose or genital area
chopping movement using the edge of the hands
Herpes Simplex lesion (cold sore) – Highly
Hair follicle – Opening that contains the root of a contagious viral infection that causes a
hair; originates in the dermis; rooted in the dermal blister-like outbreak
papilla bulb and nourished by the capillaries
Herpes Zoster (HER-peez ZOS-tur) – Condition
Hair growth retardant – Skin care product that caused by the Varicella-Zoster virus, which is a
slows the growth of hair after waxing relative of the herpes family that causes chickenpox;
Hair lightener (bleach) – Chemical solution used to also called shingles
lighten the hair by removing the pigment, making Herpetic infection – Also known as cold sores;
it less obvious; softens the hair, but does not highly contagious viral infection triggered when the
remove hair body or skin is placed under extreme stress, such as
Halitosis (hal-eh-TOH-sis) – Bad breath a laser treatment
Hand-held exfoliants – Devices used on dry skin Hertz rating – Term that indicates the number
to apply cleanser to a particular area of the face or of cycles, per second, that a generator
body; include loofahs, body brushes, sponges alternates current
and washcloths High blood pressure – Medical condition; clients
Hard keratin – Form of hard protein (keratin) that with this condition should avoid treatments that
makes up the fingernails utilize electrical current, increase body temperature
Hard water – Water that contains salts, such as or promote circulation
calcium and magnesium High Frequency Current – Also referred to as Tesla
Hard wax – Skin care product warmed in a heated Current; an alternating (or oscillating) current that
wax pot, applied with a spatula in a thick layer to can be adjusted to different voltages to produce heat
the skin, allowed to harden and then lifted with the or germicidal effects
fingers at one end and removed Hirsutism (HER-se-tizm) – Condition typically
Healing oil – Oil used to promote cell regeneration affecting women; causes dark hair to grow in areas
for skin repair of the body where men usually grow more hair,
such as the face, arms, legs and back; heavy growth
Heat sterilization – Sterilization method using dual of hair, often in abnormal distribution
purpose autoclaves/sterilizers used for steam (moist
heat) or dry heat ranging from 320° to 375°; takes Histology – Study of structures too small to be seen
about 30 minutes to sterilize except through a microscope
Heimlich Maneuver – Emergency technique using HIV abbr. Human Immunodeficiency Virus – Life-
abdominal thrusts on a person that is choking threatening viral disease
Hemidesmosome (heh-me-DEZ-ma-sohm) – Hives – Allergic reaction that produces an eruption
Specialized cellular connection located in the lower of wheals; also referred to as urticaria
layer of the stratum germinativum that attaches it to Holiday promotion – Advertising technique
the basement membrane capitalizing on yearly celebrations to sell products
Hemoglobin (HEE-mo-glo-bin) – Protein in the by running a promotion
red blood cells that attracts oxygen molecules Homeostasis (ho-mee-oh-STAY-sis) – Body’s state
through oxygenation of balance
Hepatitis B Virus (HBV) – Highly infectious disease Hormone – Chemical substance manufactured by
that affects the liver glands in the endocrine system

GLOSSARY
Hormone replacement therapy (HRT) – Estrogen or I

estrogen/progestin medication taken to relieve the
I-9 form – Document required by the U.S.
symptoms of hormone depletion associated with the
Department of Justice, Immigration and
natural aging process
Naturalization Service to verify an employee’s
Hue – Another term for color identity and eligibility to work in the United States
Humectant (hue-MEK-tent) – Organic ingredient Immersion time – Length of time implements need
that binds water and deposits it onto the skin to be soaked in a disinfecting agent
Humerus (HU-mur-us) – Largest bone of the upper Immiscible – Solvents that do not mix easily with
arm; extends from the elbow to the shoulder each other
Hydrochloric (hi-dro-KLO-rik) acid – Acid that Immune system – Body’s defense mechanism that
breaks down food in the stomach fights infection
Hydrotherapy tub treatments – Also called Immunity – Body’s ability to destroy infectious
balneotherapy; use of fresh water treatments agents that enter it
Hydroxy acid – Organic acid extracted from a variety Impetigo (em-PET-e-go) – Highly contagious
of natural sources, including fruits, sugar and milk bacterial infection caused by the Staphylococcus
Hydroxy acid allergens – Alpha and beta hydroxy Aureus or Streptoccocus A organism
acids that promote cell turnover and exfoliation; Improvement cost – Amount of money that must
may cause irritation, redness and increased be spent to meet a skin care center’s unique
sensitivity, as in an allergic reaction needs; does not include separate expenses for
Hygiene – Applied science that deals with skin care equipment
healthful living Inactive electrode – Electrode held by the client
Hyoid (HI-oid) bone – U-shaped bone located in the during a treatment
throat; referred to as the “Adam’s apple” Inactive stage – Inactive, spore-forming stage
Hyperhidrosis (hy-per-hy-DROH-sis) – Condition bacteria enter in unfavorable conditions
involving an over-production of perspiration caused Incandescent light – Kind of light provided by
by excessive heat or general body weakness an ordinary light bulb that creates the closest
Hyperkeratosis – Skin condition involving an substitution for natural sunlight; composed of red
excessive amount of keratin cell production on the and yellow light
stratum corneum, or horny layer of the skin Income – Also referred to as revenue; all payments
Hyperpigmentation – Skin condition involving received from clients for services performed and
excess production of melanin resulting in home care products purchased
darker patches Income tax – Tax paid on the profits or earnings of
Hypertrichosis (hi-per-tri-KOH-sis) – Condition a business; tax on personal income
that causes excessive hair growth; genetically Indirect High Frequency Current treatment –
determined; can occur anywhere on the body in Method of application in which current is used to
both men and women relax the client, aid in the penetration of product
Hypertrophic scar – Thick, raised scar caused by and assist in massage for mature skin; during the
excessive amounts of collagen treatment, the client holds an electrode and the skin
care specialist’s hands are in direct contact with the
Hypoallergenic – Term describing products less
client’s skin; most frequently used application of
likely to provoke an allergic reaction
Faradic Current
Hypoglossal (high-po-GLOS-ul) nerve – Also known
Individual eyelashes – Artificial lashes that are more
as the twelfth cranial nerve; motor nerve that
natural-looking than strip eyelashes; suitable for
controls motion of the tongue
daytime or evening makeup designs
Hypopigmentation – Skin condition producing
light or white patches resulting from a lack of
pigmentation or melanin production

GLOSSARY
Infection – Medical term that describes the entry of Integumentary system – The skin and its layers; a
pathogenic bacteria or viruses into the body or skin basic body system
and multiplying to the point of interfering with the Intensity – Term that refers to the vibrancy of
body’s normal state a color
Infection control – Prevention of the spread of Intercellular cement – Substance that binds, adds
infectious agents among estheticians and clients structural strength and mediates biochemical
Infectious disease – Disease caused by bacteria interactions between cells
or viruses that can be transmitted from person to Internal carotid artery (ICA) – Artery that supplies
person; communicable by invasion of the body blood to the brain, eyes and forehead
Inferioris (in-FEER-ee-or-es) – Term that describes Internal jugular (JUG-u-lar) vein (IJV) – Vein that
something located below or smaller than returns blood to the head, face and neck
Inferior labial artery – Artery that supplies the lower Internal Revenue Service (IRS) – Agency that
lip with blood establishes the criteria for reporting a business’s
Inflammation – Body’s defense mechanism against profit and loss
harmful bacteria; reaction of tissue to irritation Intrinsic aging – Skin’s natural aging process
characterized by redness, pain, swelling or increased
temperature Inventory – All products and items purchased by
the skin care center owner for use during services
Infraorbital nerve – Nerve that extends to the lower and selling of retail products; itemized list or record
eyelid, side of the nose, upper lip and mouth of such products
Infrared lamp – Piece of skin care equipment that Inventory control – Procedures used in the skin care
provides soothing heat that penetrates into the center to ensure that products are accounted for
tissues of the body; relaxes the client and softens the from the time they are added to the inventory until
skin to allow for penetration of product they are sold or used
Infrared light – Also known as ultraviolet light; Invisible light – Range of light not visible to the
light that produces heat; benefits include increased human eye
circulation and skin gland secretions; relaxes
muscles and stimulates cell and tissue activity Involuntary muscle – Also known as a non-striated
muscle; muscle that responds automatically to
Infrared ray – Invisible ray slightly longer than the control various body functions, including those of
wavelengths that produce the visible light ray; seen the internal organs
as the color red
Iodophor germicidal detergent solution – Iodine
Infusion – Phytotherapy method that involves solution that relieves skin irritation and is antiseptic
steeping an herb in a container, such as a tea ball or
tea bag in boiling water Ion – Charged atom that attracts or repels another
based on charge
Inhalation – Respiratory process of breathing in;
intake of oxygen to be absorbed into the blood Ionic bond – Chemical union of positive and
negative ions
Inorganic chemistry – Study of the elements in the
periodic table and their compounds, excluding the Ionization – Also known as Galvanic Current;
compounds based on carbon the only constant direct current (DC) of low
voltage and high amperage that produces an
Insertion – Portion of the muscle joined to movable electrochemical effect
attachments, such as bones, movable muscles
or skin Iontophoresis facial treatment – Skin treatment
that utilizes Galvanic Current to deeply penetrate
Insulator – Material that does not allow the flow of nourishing, hydrating and firming ingredients deep
electric current into the skin
Insurance – Protection for the owner of the Irregular bones – bones found in the wrist, ankle or
business from financial difficulties that can follow spinal column (the back)
the unexpected loss of property, income, health
and/or life

GLOSSARY
Irresistible close – Term used for moment when Kilowatt – Another measurement for watts; 1,000
client witnesses or experiences the benefits that a watts equal one kilowatt; rate at which energy used
product offers making it more difficult to go home is measured in kilowatt hours
without it Kinetin – Essential growth factor that slows age-related
Isopropyl Alcohol (90%) – Anti-bacterial, anti- changes in cultured skin cells; believed to partially
fungal, and antiviral alcohol; does not destroy reverse clinical signs of photo-damaged facial skin
bacterial spores or inactive hydrophilic viruses Krause’s end bulb (krow-siz END bulb) – Pressure
Isotretinoin – Medication; also known as and pain receptor within the dermal layer of the skin
Accutane®; derivative of Vitamin A prescribed for
severe, disfiguring cases of acne and certain other
skin diseases L
Lacrimal (LAK-ri-mal) bones – Smallest two bones
of the facial skeleton; form the front part of the
J inner, bottom wall of the eye socket
Jacquet movements – Massage technique that uses Langerhans (LANG-er-hanz) cells – Cells found in
gentle kneading and pinching movements designed the stratum spinosum layer of the skin; help protect
to force excess sebum from the pores the body from infection
Jessner’s Solution – Mixture of salicylic acid, Lanugo – Soft, downy hair found on the body
resorcinol, lactic acid and ethanol, which is used at birth
both for superficial and medium-depth peels,
depending upon the concentration of acid Large intestine – Also known as the colon; part
of the digestive system that stores the waste for
Job description – Written description that serves as eventual elimination through the anal canal
an outline of the tasks and responsibilities needed
in a new employee and a checklist for future job Larynx (LAR-ngks) – Part of the respiratory system
performance reviews and promotions that contains the vocal cords and connects the
pharynx to the trachea
Joint – Connective tissue that gives the neck and
back flexibility; located between each vertebrae Laser hair removal – Removal method using
wavelengths of light to penetrate and diminish or
Joint replacement – Condition that is a destroy hair bulbs
contraindication for the use of any
electrical equipment Laser resurfacing – Technique using a beam of
highly focused light to vaporize the upper layers
of damaged skin at specific and controlled levels
K of penetration
Keloids – Thick raised scars caused by excessive Latex sponge – Makeup implement used to apply
amounts of collagen foundation and concealer blend and/or clean up
Keratin – Primary component of skin cells made up Latissimus dorsi (lah-TIS-i-mus DOR-si) – Muscle
of a protein substance; contains several chemical covering the back of the neck and upper back that
elements, such as carbon, nitrogen, hydrogen, draws the head back; controls the shoulder blades
oxygen and sulfur and swinging motion of the arms
Keratinization – Chemical conversion of living cells Lavender – Substance used in many facial and
into dead protein cells body treatments, as well as products; has antiseptic,
antimicrobial, soothing, stimulating and healing
Keratinocyte (CARE-a-tin-o-site) – Skin cell located
properties
throughout the epidermis; consists of keratin
Law of color – Law that states that, out of all of the
Keratohyalin – Specialized proteins
colors in the universe, only three are pure
Keratolytic medication – Crème or ointment used to
promote rapid cell turnover and exfoliation Lawyer – Advisor on the legal obligations of
business ownership, borrowing money,
Keratosis – Build up of skin cells on the epidermis signing rental (lease) agreements and assuming
tax responsibilities

GLOSSARY
Lease – Rental agreement Liposuction – Cosmetic surgery procedure that

Left atrium (AY-tree-um) – Upper chamber of the removes cellulite permanently
heart; commonly referred to as the left auricle Liquid – Matter with definite weight and volume,
Left ventricle (VEN-tri-kel) – Lower left chamber of but no shape
the heart Liquid foundation – Most common form of
Lentigo (len-TEE-goh) – Also known as a freckle; foundation; offers sheer, natural coverage and is
small yellowish or brownish spot on the skin, easy to apply and blend
particularly on the face, hands or neck Liquid tissue – Tissue that carries food, waste
Lesion – Wound, injury, infected or diseased patch products and hormones
of skin; change in the structure of the skin tissue; Load – Technical term for any appliance that
most often caused by injury, damage or skin requires electricity in order to work
conditions and diseases Local infection – Type of infection present in a
Lesser occipital nerve – Nerve that extends into the small, confined area often indicated by a pus-filled
muscles at the back of the skull boil, pimple or inflammation
Leukoderma (loo-ko-DUR-mah) – Congenital Local shock – Type of shock that passes through
disorder that occurs when the skin lacks a small part of the body; can cause burns and
pigmentation (hypopigmentation) due to a decrease muscle contractions
in melanocyte activity Logarithmic – Scale in which each step or number
Levator (le-VA-ter) – Muscle that lifts up increases by multiples of 10
Levator palpebrae (pal-PEE-bray) superioris – Long bone – Type of bone found in the arms
Muscle located above the eyelids; opens the eyelids and legs
Liability – All the money a person owes Loss – Financial outcome that occurs when
Ligament – Dense, strong band of fibrous tissue operating expenses are greater than income
that holds bones to other bones Lotion – Along with crème, the most common
Lightener – Ingredient used in skin treatment product type on the market; used to impart
products in order to bleach or lighten areas emolliency and moisturization to the skin
of hyperpigmentation Loupe – Also referred to as a magnifying lamp;
Light therapy – Treatment producing beneficial tool used to provide light and magnification to
effects on the body through the use of light rays determine skin type and condition
or waves Lower leg wax – Hair removal procedure using wax
Line of credit – Reserve of cash from bank that from the top of the knee to the ankles, from the top
person can draw upon to meet operating expenses of the thigh to the ankles or on the tops of the feet
during a slow month or two and the toes
Lip brush – Brush used to apply lip color Lower respiratory tract – Part of the respiratory
system that includes the trachea, bronchi and lungs
Lip gloss – Cosmetic product that imparts a shiny
appearance and can also be used as highlighter over Lupus – Autoimmune disease in which the
a lipstick shade body’s immune system is impaired or begins
to fight against itself; person with lupus may be
Lipid – Complex substance synthesized by the contraindicated for waxing services
body; used in many important biological functions,
among them the formation of components that fill Lymph – Colorless liquid produced as a by-product
the intercellular spaces in the skin of plasma; passes nourishment to capillaries and
cells; circulates through the blood system via
Lip liner – Cosmetic product applied to the outer muscular contraction, carries away cellular waste
edge of the lips to define the shape of the lips and before it becomes toxic to the body
to prevent lipstick from “bleeding” onto the skin
around the mouth

GLOSSARY
Lymph node – Gland that filters out toxic Manual exfoliant – Cosmetic product that contains
substances, such as bacteria a granular substance with a slightly grainy or rough
Lymphobiology – Skin care treatment that uses texture; the abrasion of the rough texture against
machines to increase the rate of lymphatic drainage the face causes a scraping effect to remove dead
skin cells
Lymphocyte (LIM-fa-site) – Medical term that
describes a cell that carries lymph Manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) – Massage
treatment that uses a gentle pumping technique to
Lymph vascular system – Also referred to as the help eliminate toxins, waste and excess water that can
lymphatic system; system that circulates lymph leave the face and body looking puffy and fatigued
through lymph glands, lymph nodes and vessels
Mascara – Cosmetic product that defines, lengthens
and thickens the eyelashes
M Mask – Facial procedure designed to provide the
Maceration – Technique used in aromatherapy that skin with necessary and desired benefits
involves plunging a substance into hot oil or fat, Massage – Skin care procedure that involves a
which then absorbs the ingredient’s fragrance systematic, therapeutic method of manipulating the
Macrophage (MAK-ro-fay-je) – White blood cells body by rubbing, pinching, tapping, kneading or
that surround and digest foreign substances in the stroking with hands, fingers or an instrument
bloodstream and tissues Massage #1 – Cleansing process using
Macule (MAK-yool) – Skin disorder; discoloration massage techniques
on the skin’s surface Massage #2 – Application and deep penetration
Magnetic effect – Effect on the skin produced of massage crème to a client during a
by electricity similar to the repulsion (push) and relaxing massage
attraction (pull) exhibited by magnets; also called Massage crème/oil – Product that reduces friction
mechanical effect and provides “slip” to the skin during massage
Magnifying lamp – Also called loupe; piece of Massage therapist – Trained professional that uses
skin care equipment that provides light and touch to provide relaxation, stress reduction, health
magnification to determine skin type and condition promotion, pain management and injury recovery
Makeup chair – Specialized piece of skin care Masseter (MAS-se-ter) – Muscle that covers the
equipment that allows client to be positioned at hinge of the jaw and aids in closing the jaw, as
proper height and angle for makeup application/ in chewing
service
Mast cell – Cell that releases histamines in response
Makeup implement – Hand-held tool, which must to allergic reactions
be disinfected or discarded after each use
Mastication muscle – Muscle that controls the
Malignant growth – Cancerous growth that must be opening and closing of the jaw, enabling chewing
diagnosed by a physician and treated immediately and talking
Malpractice insurance – Coverage that protects Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) – Form required
the skin care center owner from financial loss that by OSHA that provides information on specific
can result from an employee’s negligence while products regarding ingredients, associated hazards,
performing skin care services on clients combustion levels and storage requirements
Mandible (MAN-di-bl) – Lower jaw bone; largest Matter – Scientific term that describes anything that
bone of the facial skeleton occupies space
Mandibular (man-DIB-u-lur) branch – Main nerve Mature/Aging skin – Skin type that displays loose,
branch to the lower 1/3 of the face that divides into thin, crepe-like skin and apparent fine lines and
the auriculo temporal and the mental nerve wrinkles; lacks elasticity and firmness
Manipulation – Massage movement; actual Maxillae (mak-SIL-e) – Two bones of the upper jaw
action or movement performed during the
Maxillary (MAK-si-ler-e) branch – Main nerve
massage treatment
branch to the middle 1/3 of the face that divides into
the zygomatic nerve and the infraorbital nerve

GLOSSARY
Mechanical effect – Effect on the skin produced Mental nerve – Nerve extending to the lower lip
by electricity similar to the repulsion (push) and and chin
attraction (pull) exhibited by magnets; also called Merkel (MUR-kul) cell – Touch receptor, or
magnetic effect sensory cell, that is only found in thick skin in
Mechanical exfoliation – Process of physically the stratum germinativum
removing dead skin cells by using an abrasive action Meridian – Specific point on the body to which
combined with a product pressure is applied during an acupressure treatment
Mechanoreceptor (ma-CAN-o-re-sep-ter) – Cells Metabolism (me-TAB-e-lizm) – Chemical process
that sense stretching, compression or twisting by which cells receive nutrients for growth
of the skin and reproduction
Median nerve – Nerve that extends down the Metacarpals (met-ah-KAR-pels) – The five long,
mid-forearm into the hand thin bones that form the palm of the hand
Medical history – Part of the Client Consultation Microbiology – Study of small living organisms
Form pertaining to the past treatments the client called microbes
may have received and his or her personal
medical history Microdermabrasion – Superficial resurfacing of
the skin that removes a portion of the stratum
Medium-depth peel – Type of peel using corneum and requires 6 to 12 treatments to
trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and beta hydroxy acids, achieve noticeable improvement; recommended
such as salicylic acid, to affect the dermis for lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and
Medulla oblongata (me-DOOL-ah ob-long-GA-ta) – superficial scarring
Body structure that governs respiration, circulation, Microdermabrasion machine – A machine used
swallowing and certain other body functions; to achieve a light resurfacing of the epidermis
connects parts of the brain to the spinal column;
located just below the pons Microlipoinjection – Also called fat injection or
autologous fat transplantation; a procedure in which
Meissner’s corpuscle (MY-snerz COR-pus-el) – fat is removed with a syringe from a “donor site,”
Touch receptor within the dermal layer of the such as the patient’s abdomen, thigh or buttock
skin that reports cold, fine touch, light pressure and injected into the area to be treated
and low frequency vibrations
Microphage (MIKE-ro-fay-jez) – Cell that
Melanocyte (MEL-en-o-site) – Cells that produce fights infection
melanin to give skin its color; not found in thick
skin, such as the palms of your hands and the soles Microscopic – Term used to describe objects that
of your feet can be seen only with the aid of a microscope
Melanoma (mel-a-NO-ma) – Most dangerous skin Middle temporal artery – Artery that supplies the
growth that evolves from flat or raised pigmented temples with blood
lesions anywhere on the body; pre-cancerous Milia (MIL-ee-uh) – Pearly white enclosed cyst;
growths that, if untreated, will change in color, size also referred to as “baby acne”
and shape and, over time, will become malignant Miliaria Rubra (mil-ee-AY-re-ah ROOB-rah) –
Melanosome – Intracellular vesicle that condition characterized by an acute burning,
holds melanin itching rash caused by excessive heat
Melasma (MEL-AZ-mah) – Also called Chloasma; a Milliampere – 1/1000th of an amp; unit used to
common disorder in pregnant women that results in measure the power that skin care equipment emits
increased pigmentation (hyperpigmentation) causing Milliamperemeter – Instrument used to measure
flat, light to dark patches to occur on the face the electrical current used in skin care equipment
Mentalis (men-TAL-us) – Muscle located at the tip Mineral – Organic substance essential for normal
of the chin; pushes the lower lip up and/or wrinkles growth and activity
the chin, as in expressing doubt

GLOSSARY
Miscible – Solvents that easily mix together Motor nerve – Also called efferent nerve; nerve that
Mitosis (my-TOE-sis) – Also known as indirect cell carries messages from the brain to the muscles
division; process in which human cells reproduce Multi-Function Machine – Machine consisting of
by dividing in half a steamer, vacuum, toner spray and rotating brush
Mixture – Two or more compounds blended that offers four or more electrical treatment options
together physically, rather than chemically, during facial treatments
creating a new overall product but still retaining Muscle – Fibrous tissue that, when stimulated by
the separate chemical characteristics of the messages carried by the nervous system, contracts
components being blended to produce movement
Modality – Also known as electric current; the flow Muscular system – Body structure that supports
of electricity along a conductor, which is equal to the skeleton, produces body movements, contours
the ratio of voltage to resistance the body and is involved in the functions of other
Modeling mask – Component of a facial procedure body systems
that delivers the benefits of the ingredients it Muscular tissue – Tissue that contracts, when
contains and also seals the skin, locking in moisture stimulated, to produce motion
and creating a firm, taut feeling after removal Muslin –Fabric pre-cut into strips of various sizes
Modern blend fragrance – Fragrance concocted used to remove wax and hair
from several different scents, including fruit, Myology (mi-OL-o-jee) – The study of the structure,
floral, spicy and wood; may also feature food function and diseases of the muscles
scents, such as chocolate, coffee, caramel, licorice,
mint or almond
Modified Brazilian wax – Type of waxing service N
performed by removing hair along the outside of a Nasal (NA-zel) bones – The two bones that join to
g-string; leaves a strip of pubic hair that is about an form the bridge of the nose
inch in width Nasalis – One of the four muscles located inside
Moisturizer – Skin care product used to replenish the nose; helps control contraction and expansion of
and balance moisture and oil as well as protect the nostrils
the skin Nasal nerve – Nerve extending to the tip and lower
Moisturizing oil – Product used to soften dry or side of the nose
flaky skin Natural immunity – Partially inherited natural
Molecular weight – Measurement listed on the resistance to disease
Periodic Table of Elements and determined by Nephrons (NEF-rons) – Small, tubelike kidney
adding neutrons and protons together structures that filter waste products and water from
Molecule – Smallest particle of a compound that the blood system, allowing usable nutrients to be
has all the chemical properties of that compound; reabsorbed into the blood
two or more atoms joined together by one or more Neroli – Product used to treat oily and acneic skin;
chemical bonds known for its antimicrobial and antiseptic qualities,
Mole – Skin condition also called a benign growth; as well as for being very soothing
has a regular/symmetrical shape; harmless Nerve cells – Also known as neurons (NU-rons);
collection of pigmented cells; can be raised or flat cells with axons that are responsible for sending
Monochromatic color scheme – Art principle messages in the form of nerve impulses
that involves using the same color with variations Nerve tissues – Tissues that carry messages to and
in value and intensity throughout the entire from the brain and coordinate body functions
makeup design
Nervous system – Body structure that coordinates
Monomer – Basic building-block molecule that and controls the overall operation of the human
connects with another to form larger, more body by responding to both internal and
complex compounds external stimuli
Monosaccharide – A single saccharide

GLOSSARY
Networking – Developing relationships with O

individuals who can put you in contact with
Objective symptom – Signs of illness visible to the
potential customers or employers
eye, such as papules, pustules and redness
Net worth – Person’s or company’s assets minus
Occipital (ak-SIP-et-el) artery – Artery that supplies
liabilities; what you own minus what you owe
blood to the back of the head, up to the crown
on assets
Occipital (ak-SIP-et-al) bone – Bone that forms the
Neurology – Study of the nervous system
back of the skull, indenting above the nape area
Neutral solution – Solution with an equal number
Occipitalis (ok-sip-i-TAL-is) muscle – Muscle located
of positive hydrogen and negative hydroxide ions
at the nape of the neck; draws the scalp back
Neutral undertone – Color classification that
Occipito-frontalis (ok-SIP-ih-to-frun-TAL-is) – Also
contains brown/gray undertones
called the epicranius; a broad muscle that covers the
Neutron – Subatomic particle with no epicranium or scalp
electric charge
Occlusive barrier – Emollient that seals moisture
Nevus (NEE-vus) – Birthmark or congenital mole into the skin
Nodular cystic acne – Skin condition characterized Occupational disorder – Health condition created or
by inflammatory hard lesions found deeper in the influenced by the employment environment
skin at the point where the hair follicle becomes
Occupational Safety and Health Administration
plugged with dead skin cells
(OSHA) – Regulating agency under the Department
Nodule (NOD-yool) – Solid mass within the skin; of Labor that enforces safety and health standards in
also called a tumor the workplace
Non-ablative – Laser that penetrates the epidermis, Oculomotor (ock-yoo-lo-MO-tur) nerve – Also called
usually without affecting it, to treat the papillary the third cranial nerve; nerve that controls motion
dermis below of the eye
Non-comedogenic – Products less likely to Ohm – Unit of electric resistance
clog pores
Ohm’s rating – Measure of resistance to the motion
Non-critical – Lowest level of infection control; of electrons through a conductor
objects that come into contact with intact skin need
Oil-in-water (O/W) – Cosmetic product type in
only be sanitized
which oil is equally distributed throughout a
Non-pathogenic bacteria – Non-disease-producing water base
bacteria; harmless and can be beneficial
Oily skin – Skin type that displays excess sebum
Nonverbal communication – Also called body production; appears thick and shiny; prone to
language; type of communication in which the breakouts and clogged areas
exchange of messages takes place without speaking
Oily skin mask – Component of a facial procedure
Normal skin – Skin type that contains sufficient that absorbs excess sebum and debris from the skin;
moisture and sebum production; displays few prevents clogging; tightens and refines pores
breakouts and clogged areas
Ointment – Anhydrous (without water) cosmetic
Nucleus (NU-kle-us) – Core of an atom or a living substance based on a mixture of oils and waxes,
cell; dense core of protons and neutrons at the normally having the texture of a paste, thick cream
center of the atom; control center of cell activities or salve; also made from the combination of herbs
that is vitally important for cell reproduction and petroleum
Nutrition – Process of converting raw materials Olfactory (ol-FACK-tur-ee) nerve – Also called the
in the form of carbohydrates, fats and proteins first cranial nerve; nerve that controls sense of smell
into energy
Open circuit – Break in the path of electricity
Operating capital – Reservoir of cash needed to stay
ahead of creditors
Operating expense (OE) – All the costs incurred in
the day-to-day running of the skin care center

GLOSSARY
Ophthalmic (of-THAL-mik) branch – Main nerve Oxidation – Chemical reaction in which a

branch to the top 1/3 of the face that divides into the substance loses an electron and gains oxygen;
supraorbital, supratrochlear and the nasal opposite of reduction
Opponens (uh-POHN-nenz) – Muscles located in Oxidation-reduction reaction – Process taking
the palms of the hands that cause the thumbs to place any time a chemical reaction occurs
move toward the fingers, allowing the hands to Oxygen – Most abundant element in the earth’s
grasp or make fists crust; second most abundant in atmosphere
Optic (OP-tik) nerve – Also known as the second Oxygenation (ok-si-je-NAY-shun) – Process by
cranial nerve; nerve that controls sense of sight which hemoglobin attracts oxygen molecules
Oral antibiotic – Medication taken by mouth; can
create dryness and increased sensitivity
P
Oral hygiene – Good dental care
Pacemaker – Surgically implanted electronic
Orbicularis oculi (or-bik-ye-LAR-es AK-yu-le) –
heart device; person with such a device may
Muscle that circles the eye socket and closes
be contraindicated for the use of any
the eyelid
electrical equipment
Organ – Separate body structure that performs
Pacinian corpuscle (pa-SIN-ee-en COR-pus-el) –
a specific function; composed of two or more
Deep pressure and pain receptor within the dermal
different tissues
layer of the skin
Organelle – Basic body structure that performs
Pain receptors (PAYN re-SEP-ters) – Free nerve
most of the cell’s activities; stores food for growth,
endings not associated with cells; detect extreme
as well as repairs and restores the cell; structure
temperatures, mechanical surface injury and
or component that performs specific functions for
application of chemicals
each cell
Pancake – Also called pan-stick or greasepaint;
Organic chemistry – Study of all matter now living,
oil-based foundation product that provides
that was alive at one time, or that contains carbon
maximum coverage
Oriental fragrance – Category of full-bodied, warm,
Papillary dermis – Layer of the dermis directly
often heavy aromas typically composed of woods,
under the epidermis that is rich in blood vessels and
spices, exotic florals and musk
capillaries; provides nutrients to the upper layer;
Origin – Nonmoving (fixed) portion of the muscle also houses touch receptors
attached to bones or other fixed muscles
Papule (PAP-yool) – Small elevation of the skin,
Oris orbicularis (O-ris or-bik-ye-LAR-es) – Muscle usually inflamed, that does not contain pus
that circles the mouth, contracts, puckers and
Paraffin heating unit – Electric container that melts
wrinkles the lips, as in whistling
blocks of paraffin wax for use in face, hand, foot
Osmidrosis – Sudoriferous gland disorder; also and body treatments
called bromodirosis; foul-smelling perspiration
Paraffin mask – Component of a hand or facial
caused by the yeast and bacteria that break down the
procedure; in facial procedure, paraffin wax is
sweat on the surface of the skin
applied over a thin piece of gauze and allowed
Osteology (as-tee-AL-e-jee) – Study of bones to harden as it cools; benefits include increased
Overload – Problem that occurs when too many circulation and penetration of ingredients applied
appliances are put on one circuit and operated at the beneath mask; recommended for dry, mature skin
same time because more current flows through the Parasitic disease – Skin condition caused by
line than it is designed to carry animal or vegetable parasites, such as pediculosis
Overtone – Mismatch between a person’s tone of (lice) or ringworm
voice, inflection, expressions and reactions and his/ Parasympathetic nervous system – Sub-system of
her spoken words the autonomic nervous system; slows the heart rate,
dilates blood vessels and lowers blood pressure

GLOSSARY
Parietal (pah-RI-e-tal) artery – Artery supplying the Peristalsis (per-i-STAL-sis) – Twisting and turning
crown and the sides of the head with blood motion of the esophagus
Parietal bone – Bone forming the crown and upper Permanent hair removal methods – Techniques
side of the head designed to damage the papilla of the hair,
Partnership – Business owned by two or more inhibiting the hair’s ability to grow back; include
persons that share all costs of opening, operating electrolysis, laser hair removal and photo-epilation;
and maintaining the business requires use of electrical equipment and specialized
training and licensing
Passive (acquired) immunity – Type of immunity
that occurs through vaccination, or the injection Permanent makeup – Separate specialty within
of an antigen, which stimulates the body’s the field of tattooing; involves the placement of
immune response colorants into the skin for the purpose of cosmetic
enhancement, medical correction and/or esthetic
Pasteurization – Heating process that kills restoration as defined by the American Academy of
microorganisms in food and beverages Micropigmentation
Patch test – Test usually performed on the inside of Personal ethics – Personal system of moral
the arm or behind the ear that provides a basis for principles and values
judging the sensitivity level of each client’s skin
Personal financial statement – Statement listing a
Pathogenic bacteria – Disease-producing bacteria person’s assets, liabilities and net worth
that causes infection and disease; some
produce toxins Personal hygiene – Individual system for
maintaining cleanliness and health
Pathogens – Microorganisms, such as viruses,
bacteria, protozoa and fungi, that cause infection Personality – Complex set of characteristics that
within the body distinguishes individuals from others; the
outward reflection of inner feelings, thoughts,
Pathology – Study of diseases and disorders, their attitudes and values
causes, processes, development and consequences
Personal Service Workers (PSW) – Nurses, doctors,
Pectoralis (pek-toe-RAL-us) major and minor – teachers, cosmetologists and estheticians who
Muscles that extends across the front of the chest work with the public and are often asked to take
and assist in swinging the arms precautions against all viruses but, in particular,
Pellon® – Fabric pre-cut into strips of various sizes HBV and HIV
used to remove wax and hair Petrissage (pet-tree-SAH-jh) – Massage
Pelvic tilt – Bending of knees slightly and pulling manipulation involving light or heavy kneading,
in abdominal muscles when reaching up to prevent pinching and rolling of the muscles
arching backward pH adjuster – Acid or base used to adjust the
Pepsin – Enzyme responsible for the breakdown product pH level to a desired level
of protein into polypeptide molecules and free Phalanges (fah-LAN-jees) – Fourteen bones that
amino acids form the digits or fingers
Peptide bond – Bond uniting two amino acid groups Pharynx (FAR-ingks) – Passageway to the stomach
Performance review – Opportunity to discuss job and lungs; part of the digestive system
performance with a manager at regular intervals pH balanced – Measurement indicating balance
throughout employment somewhere within the pH scale but not necessarily
Pericardium (per-i-KAR-dee-um) – Membrane that at 4.5 to 5.5 (the average pH range of the skin)
encases the heart; contracts and relaxes to force pH measurement scale – Scientific tool that ranges
blood to move through the circulatory system from zero to fourteen; used to describe the degree
Peripheral (pe-RIF-ur-al) nervous system – Central of acidity or alkalinity of a solution
nervous subsystem composed of sensory and motor pH number – Number indicating amount of acid or
nerves that extend from the brain and spinal cord to alkali in a water-based solution
the voluntary muscles of the body and to the surface
of the skin

GLOSSARY
Phenolic germicidal detergent solution – Platysma (plah-TIZ-mah) – Muscle that extends

Disinfectant option; three percent phenolics from the tip of the chin to the shoulders and
are not considered high-level disinfectants due chest; depresses the lower jaw and lip, as in
to their inability to inactivate bacterial spores, expressing sadness
mycobacterium tuberculosis and fungi Podiatrist – Also known as a chiropodist; foot doctor
Phoresis – Process of forcing a water-based Polarity – Term describing the opposite, negatively
solution into the skin by applying Galvanic or positively charged poles in an electric current
Current to the solution
Polarity changer – Switch on electrotherapy
Photo-damaged skin – Light-damaged skin due to machines that changes current from negative to
external influences from the sun positive or positive to negative
Photo-epilation – Permanent hair removal method; Poly hydroxy acid – Molecule that contains several
intense pulsed light beam creates a burst of energy carboxyl groups in the same chain
used to destroy hair bulbs with minimal scarring;
also called pulsed light; uses principle similar to Polymers – Chemical bond; groups of monomers
lasers but not considered to be a laser light that bond together
Physical change – Change in the physical form Polypeptide chain – Chemical bond; thousands of
of a substance without creating a new substance amino acids connected lengthwise to form a chain
possessing a distinct material composition Polysaccharides – Carbohydrates; hydrate, revitalize
Physiology – Study of the functions body organs and infuse the skin with nutrients
and systems perform Pons (PONZ) – Prominent band of nerve tissue
Phytocosmetics – Phytotherapy preparations used that connects other parts of the brain to the spinal
for cosmetic purposes column; located below the cerebrum and directly in
front of the cerebellum
Phytohormones – Concentrated source of trace
elements, mineral salts, essential amino acids, Pore – Skin opening; tiny opening or “passageway”
polysaccharides, vitamins, enzymes, helpful that allows sweat or sebum (oil) to pass through the
bacteria, natural antibiotics and plant hormones surface of the skin
Phytotherapy (FIGHT-oh-thare-ah-pee) or (FEE-toh- Posterior (pos-TEER-ee-er) – Term meaning behind

thare-ah-pee) – Advanced therapy process; medicinal or in back
use of plants Posterior auricular (pos-TEER-ee-or aw-RIK-u-lur)
Pink eye – Also known as conjunctivitis; extremely artery – Artery; supplies blood to the scalp above
contagious bacterial infection that affects the and behind the ears
membrane that lines the eyelids Posterior auricular (pos-TEER-ee-er aw-RIK-u-lur)
Pityriasis versicolor (pit-i-REYE-ah-sis VUR-si-color)– branch – Nerve tissue; extends to the muscles
Commonly known as tinea versicolor; non- behind and below the ear
contagious infection that produces hypopigmented Posterior dilatator naris – One of the four
areas, usually on the neck, chest, back and arms muscles located inside the nose; helps control the
Plasma – Fluid part of the blood in which red and contraction and expansion of the nostrils
white blood cells and blood platelets are suspended; Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) –
composed of about 90% water Pigmentation disorder that results from trauma
Plastic surgeon – Also called a cosmetic surgeon; to tissues from acne, burns, injury or some skin
medical doctor specializing in cosmetic and/or rashes, such as dermatitis or psoriasis
reconstructive surgery Posture – Position of the body while standing,
Plastic surgery – Also called cosmetic or sitting and moving
reconstructive surgery; performed for aesthetic and Potential hydrogen (pH) – Unit of measurement
reconstructive purposes that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral
or alkaline
Poultice – Cosmetic mixture of crushed herbs and
hot liquid to form a paste

GLOSSARY
Powder – Cosmetic product; finely ground solid Profit – Financial gain or benefit from using a
evenly mixed with additional ingredients, which particular type of product; taking in more money
in some cases include oils; used to “set” the than paid out
foundation, concealer and other makeup products, Prognosis – Medical term predicting the
so they don’t fade, streak or rub off probable course and outcome of a condition,
Pre-malignant (pre-ma-LIG-nent) growth –Skin disorder or disease
growth; can be flat or raised and irregular in shape Pronator (PRO-nat-or) – Muscle that runs across the
and border front of the lower part of the radius and the ulna;
Premise insurance – Also known as property turns the palm of the hand downward and inward
insurance; Policy that covers the actual skin care Property insurance – Also known as premise
center equipment and physical location in case of insurance; insurance policy that covers the skin
natural disasters, fire, theft or burglary, or accidents care center equipment and physical location in the
occurring at the business event of natural disaster, fire, theft or burglary,
Preservative – Ingredient included in cosmetic or accidents occurring at the business
products to maintain microbiological integrity or Propionibacterium – Known as P. acnes bacteria;
product quality during manufacturing, storage and bacteria that plugs hair follicles and causes acne
use by the consumer
Prosthetics – Artificial devices, such as metal
Preservative-free – Products containing less than 1% plates, pins, dental braces or any device used to
preservative ingredients replace a missing body part; person with such a
Pressure receptor (PRESH-er re-SEP-ter) – Sensory device may be contraindicated for the use of any
cell that reports the degree of mechanical distortion electrical equipment
and the amount of weight felt on the skin Protein – Body’s building block used to construct
Primary colors – Three pure colors in the universe, and renew itself; a good diet includes approximately
red, yellow and blue 10 to 35% protein that is low in cholesterol and
Primary lesion – Change in the structure of the skin saturated fats
during the early development of a skin condition Proton – Atomic particle with a positive electrical
Prism – Three-sided glass object; if white light charge; identifies the atom as, for example, a
passes through it, wavelengths are separated and hydrogen atom or an oxygen atom
become visible to the eye as seven colors (red, Protoplasm (PRO-to-plazm) – Colorless gel-like
orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet) substance that contains water, salt and nutrients
Procerus (pro-SER-us) – Muscle located between obtained from food
the eyebrows across the bridge of the nose; draws Pruritus – Inflammation in the skin that causes
brows down and wrinkles the area across the bridge severe itching; usually found on undamaged skin
of the nose Psoriasis – Inheritable disease that can be triggered
Product liability insurance – Insurance offering by environmental factors in persons genetically
protection from a client’s misuse of products predisposed to the disease
recommended, sold or produced by the skin Public hygiene – Also referred to as public health;
care center science and practice of protecting and improving
Product statement – Explains what a product will do the health of a community
and why; describes features and benefits of a product. Public relations (PR) – Ability to create a favorable
Professional ethics – Study and philosophy of relationship with the public; methods and strategies
human conduct that deals with proper conduct used to establish and sustain such a relationship
in relationships with the employer, co-workers Pulmonary (PUL-mo-ner-e) artery – Artery that
and clients carries blood from the right ventricle to the lungs
Professional product – Product that is only available where it is oxygenated
through special retail outlets, such as a skin care Pulmonary circulation – Body system in which
center or a doctor’s office blood travels through the pulmonary artery to the
lungs where it is oxygenated

GLOSSARY
Pustule (PUST-yool) – Primary lesion; next step in Record keeping – Technique used for keeping
the progression from a papule; filled with bacterial accurate and detailed records essential for tax
fluid and pus purposes; used to ensure the general well-being
Pyrolysis – Skin condition; thermal breakdown of of the business; essential for evaluating a client’s
the skin reaction to a product and monitoring his or her
progression through treatment
Rectifier – Special instrument used to change
Q alternating current to direct current
Quadratus labii inferioris (kwod-RA-tus la-be-i Red blood cell (RBC) – Also called erythrocyte
in-feer-ee-OR-es) – Also known as the depressor (e-RITH-ro-site) or red corpuscle; carries oxygen
labii inferioris; muscle located below the lower lip; throughout the body; contains a protein called
pulls the lower lip down or to the side, as in hemoglobin
expressing sarcasm
Reduction – Chemical reaction in which a
Quadratus labii superioris (kwod-RA-tus la-be-i soo- substance gains an electron and loses oxygen;
peer-ee-OR-es) – Also known as the levator labii opposite of oxidation
superioris; muscle located above the upper lip and
Referral – Client-building strategy; client sent to the
consisting of three parts; raises both the nostrils
esthetician on recommendation of another client
and the upper lip, as in expressing distaste
Reflective listening – Communication strategy; act
Quaternary ammonium germicidal detergent
of repeating out loud what was heard and processed
solutions – Anti-fungal, antibacterial and antiviral
inside the listener’s head
disinfectants; not sporicidal or tuberculocidal
Reflex action – Medical term that describes the
interaction of sensory and motor nerves
R Reflexologist – Trained professional who practices
Radial nerve – Nerve that extends down the thumb reflexology
side of the arm into the back of the hand Reflexology – Technique that uses pressure on
Radiation – Transfer of heat energy through empty specific points of the feet, hands and sometimes the
air space (vacuum) ears to influence certain body conditions
Radius (RAD-ee-us) – Small bone on the thumb Rental agreement – Lease; promise to pay rent and
side of the lower arm or forearm use the property according to the agreement
Rash – Skin condition visible on the surface of the Repeat business – Client-building strategy; key to
skin; includes small red bumps, urticaria, blisters, building a strong client base and ensuring that
scales and erythema appointment books are full from week to week and
Rebooking – Scheduling a client’s next appointment month to month
in advance before he/she leaves the skin care center Reproductive system – Body system that allows a
Receptionist – First person to greet the clients as living organism to procreate
they arrive; performs many duties in the skin Request – Client-building strategy in which clients
care center call the skin care center and ask for a specific
Receptor – Nerve cell located in the papillary layer esthetician to perform the service
of the dermis that reacts to outside stimulation by Respiratory system – Body system that maintains
sending a sensory message to the brain the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the
Recommended Dietary Allowances (RDA) – lungs and body tissues
Appropriate nutrient intakes for people in the Retailing – Selling strategy involving recommending
U.S. established by the U.S. government; also and providing the best products for client purchase
Recommended Daily Allowances Retention hyperkeratosis – Skin lesion; accumulation
Reconstructive surgery – Also called plastic or of keratinized skin cells that adhere to hair follicle
cosmetic surgery; surgery performed for aesthetic
and reconstructive purposes

GLOSSARY
Reticular dermis – Skin layer; lowest layer of the Rotating brush – Handheld attachment with a small
dermis; contains the collagen and elastin fibers that round brush suitable for the face and body; used
provide the skin with its strength and flexibility to slough dead skin cells and deeply, thoroughly
Retin-A®– Medication prescribed for acne, cleanse the skin
hyperpigmentation, premature aging and rosacea; Ruffini’s corpuscle (roo-FEE-neez COR-pus-el) –
can cause dryness, increased sensitivity and Sensory cell; heat receptor within the dermal layer
irritation; contains Tretinoin, a powerful derivative of the skin sensitive to long-term pressure
of Vitamin A that dries the skin and promotes Ruptured disc – Health condition; pain in the
rapid exfoliation neck, back, arms or legs caused when the jelly-like
Rheostat – Electrical device found in skin care substance leaks out of the disc
equipment that indicates the amount of current
flowing through the equipment and regulates the
amount with a dial S
Rhinophyma – Skin condition; more severe form of Salary-plus-commission – Compensation that
rosacea that causes the tissue of the nose to swell guarantees the employee a certain amount of
and enlarge money on a regular basis and provides additional
income when the esthetician meets a predetermined
Rhinoplasty (RYE-no-PLAS-tee) – Cosmetic surgery
benchmark or goal
to reshape the nose
Sales tax – Taxes paid on products and services
Rhytidectomy (RYE-ti-DECK-toh-mee) – Cosmetic
surgery; a facelift that can improve visible signs Salicylic acid – Beta hydroxy acid that mildly dries
of aging by removing excess fat, tightening and promotes cell turnover by producing a mild
underlying muscles and re-draping the skin of keratolytic action
the face and neck Salivary (SAL-i-ver-ee) gland – Gland that secretes
Rib – One of twelve bones of the chest that aids enzymes to break down food
in the protection of the heart, lungs and other Sandalwood – Fragrance used in therapies aimed
internal organs at treating sore muscles; may also be used in facial
Right atrium (AY-tree-um) – Heart chamber; treatments for acne or irritated skin
commonly known as the right auricle; upper Sanitation – Infection control involving low-level
chamber of the heart destruction of surface bacteria
Right ventricle (VEN-tri-kel) – Heart chamber; lower Saponification – Liquification of sebum in
right chamber of the heart desincrustation procedure
Risk management – Insurance involving several Saprophytes (SAP-ro-fights) – Nonpathogenic
types of coverage to protect you from the financial bacteria that live on dead matter
difficulties that can follow the unexpected loss of Saturation point – Point at which a solute will no
property, income, health and/or life longer dissolve evenly in the solvent
Risorius (re-SOR-e-us) – Muscle located at the Sauna – Treatment using warm steam to induce
corner of the mouth; draws the mouth up and out, relaxation, expand pores and promote sweating
as in grinning
Scabies – Parasitic animal that causes
Rosacea (ro-ZA-shee-ah) – Skin condition; chronic contagious diseases
inflammatory condition of the face in which the
small capillaries of the face become dilated and Scale (skayl) – Process of shedding dead skin cells
inflamed; vascular disorder characterized by flushed of the uppermost layer of the epidermis
redness and small red bumps Scalp – The epicranium
Rose – Aromatherapy ingredient; incorporated into Scapula (SKAP-yu-lah) – The two large, flat bones
facial and body treatments for antiseptic properties extending from the middle of the back upward to
and ability to soothe and moisturize the joint where they attach to the clavicle; also called
shoulder blades

GLOSSARY
Scar (skar) – Type of lesion, also called cicatrix; Sensory-motor nerve – Also called a mixed
formation resulting from a lesion that extends nerve; large nerve that performs both sensory
into the dermis or deeper; part of the normal and motor functions
healing process Sensory nerve – Also called afferent nerve; nerve
Scope of practice – Esthetics practices that may that carries messages to the brain and spinal cord
be legally performed, as defined by the local and provides our sense of smell, sight, touch,
regulatory agency hearing and taste
Seasonal disease – Skin condition or disorder that is Serotonin – Neurotransmitter involved in normal
influenced by the weather or seasonal changes perception and emotional control
Seasonal promotion – Advertising technique Serratus anterior (ser-RA-tus an-TER-e-er) – Muscle
capitalizing on yearly celebrations to sell products located under the arm that helps in lifting the arm
by running a promotion and in breathing
Sebaceous (si-BAY-shus) gland – Also called oil Shade – Color hue with black added
gland or duct gland; part of the integumentary Shareholder – Stockholder; owner of a corporation
system that secretes into canal-like structures, or
ducts, and deposits its contents on the surface of the Sharps container – Red, puncture-resistant
skin; not located on the palms of the hands and the containers labeled with the biohazard symbol and
soles of the feet the words “Sharps waste” or “biohazard”
Seborrhea (seb-oh-REE-ah) – Skin condition Shaving – Technique performed by the client at

caused by excess secretion of the sebaceous gland; home with an electric shaver, clipper or razor;
commonly associated with oily skin types removes hair from the surface of the skin
Seborrheic dermatitis – Common skin rash with Short circuit – Break in an electrical circuit; any
redness and scaly, pinkish-yellow patches that have time a foreign conductor comes in contact with a
an oily appearance wire carrying current to a load (appliance)
Sebum – Complex mixture of fatty substances that Sinusoidal Current – Alternating current (AC) that
keeps the skin soft, supple and pliable produces a mechanical effect, similar to the way
Faradic Current produces muscle contractions
Secondary colors – Orange, green and violet; colors
produced when primary colors are mixed together Skeletal muscle – Muscle attached to bone
in varying proportions Skeletal system – Physical foundation of the body
Secondary lesion – Skin lesion that appears as that consists of 206 bones of different shapes
a condition or disease progresses and requires and sizes, each attached to others at movable or
treatment by a physician immovable joints
Second-degree burn – Burn affecting both the Skin graft surgery – Medical procedure in which a
epidermis and underlying dermis; accompanied section of healthy skin is taken from an unburned
by pain, swelling and redness; does cause blisters; area of the body and surgically reattached, covering
damage penetrates to the dermis the burned area to try to re-grow skin
Self-appraisal – Act of accessing personal skills Skin histology – Microscopic study of the
carefully to pinpoint strengths and weaknesses skin’s tissue
Selling – Often called “the art of persuasion” or Skin physiology – Study of the skin’s functions
the “technique of recommendation”; term that Skin scope – Elaborate magnifying mirror/light that
describes recommending products and services to incorporates a black light; also called a dermascope
provide quality home maintenance or service or skin scanner
Semi-critical – Midlevel of infection control; objects Skin tag – Small, elevated growth that can easily be
that come in contact with mucus membranes or removed by a physician
broken skin require disinfection Skin tone – Skin color classification that identifies
Semi-permanent eyelash tinting – Procedure the warmth or coolness of the skin color
involving darkening the eyelashes with a semi-
permanent tint product

GLOSSARY
Skull – Also referred to as the skeleton of the head Sphenoid (SFEE-noid) bone – Bone located
or facial skeleton; bone that encloses and protects behind the eyes and nose; connects all the bones
the brain and primary sensory organs of the cranium
Small intestine – Part of the digestive system that Spice blend – Fragrance made from several spicy
begins the breakdown of nutrients aromas, such as vanilla, cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg,
Social Security – A planned savings/retirement fund ginger or clove
for every worker in the United States Spinal cord – Long nerve fibers that originate in
Sodium Hypochlorite – Liquid chlorine disinfectant the base of the brain and extend to the base of the
found in household bleach that has a wide range of spine; holds 31 pairs of spinal nerves that branch
antimicrobial activity, is inexpensive and fast-acting out to muscles, internal organs and skin
Soft keratin – Form of protein (keratin) that makes Spirilla (spi-RIL-uh) – Spiraled, coiled, corkscrew-
up the skin and hair shaped bacterial cells that cause highly contagious
diseases, such as syphilis and cholera
Soft water – Water containing very few minerals
Spores – Bacteria that form hard protective coatings
Soft wax – Also known as classic wax; a skin care that encase their key parts to survive
supply used in majority of professional waxing
services; melted in a heated wax pot, applied to Spore test strips – Biological monitoring systems
the skin in a thin layer with a spatula and covered designed for use with the type of sterilization
with strips of material, such as muslin or Pellon®; being used
material is then lifted off the skin, removing wax Spray machine – Also referred to as an atomizer;
and hair automated spraying device used to achieve more
Sole proprietorship – Type of business ownership; thorough cleansing or toning; assists in removing
owned by one person who is in complete control of clay masks
the business, receives all profits from the business Squamous (SQUAW-mus) cell – Cell found in the
and is responsible for all debts and losses stratum lucidum (hands and soles of the feet) with
Solid – Chemical mixture; matter with definite the main function of protection of the skin
weight, volume and shape Squamous cell carcinoma – Malignant cell growth;
Solute – Dissolved part of a chemical solution an irregular, crusted, red papule that occurs in sun-
exposed areas and may be an actinic keratosis that
Solution – Chemical mixture of two or more went untreated; these lesions are dangerous and
chemicals in which each component is evenly need to be removed
distributed in the mixture to form a complete and
homogeneous dispersion Stabilized hydrogen peroxide (6%) – Antibacterial,
antiviral and anti-fungal disinfectant
Solvent – Liquid part of a chemical solution
Stable atom – Atom not missing any electrons in
Soothing lotion – product that calms the skin the outer shell
after waxing
Staphylococci (staf-i-lo-KOK-sigh) – Pus-forming
Soothing oil – Aromatherapy oil that helps reduce bacterial cells that form grape-like bunches or
irritation, e.g., chamomile, aloe and lavender clusters and are present in abscesses, pustules
Sparking – Also known as spark gap; technique and boils
that involves using the narrow space between the Steam bath – Treatment using warm steam
electrode and skin to provide germicidal, healing to induce relaxation, expand pores and
and drying effects during either Direct or Indirect promote sweating
High Frequency treatments
Steam distillation – Phytotherapeutic method in
Spatula – Skin care implement used to remove which steam percolates through plant material,
product from containers pulling off volatile oils, which are then condensed
SPF abbr. Sun Protection Factor – Degree of Steatoma (ste-ah-TOH-mah) – Also called a
exposure, or time, in sun before skin starts to burn wen; harmless sebaceous cyst filled with sebum;
considered to be a tumor of the sebaceous gland

GLOSSARY
Sterilization – Procedure that eliminates all living Strip (band) eyelashes – Cosmetic accessory that
organisms on non-porous surfaces, including creates a more intense look to the eyes, making
bacterial spores that adhere to surgical instruments them appear wider or “doe-like”
in medical treatment rooms Subcutaneous layer – Bottom layer of the skin that
Sternocleido mastoideus (stur-no-KLI-do mas- insulates and acts as a shock absorber to protect the
TOID-e-us) – Muscle that extends along the side of bones and help support other delicate structures;
the neck from the ear to the collarbone and moves also called the subdermis or subcutis
the head from side to side and up and down, as in Subjective symptom – Symptom that can be felt by
nodding “yes” or “no” the client but is not visible to others, such as itching
Sternum – Bone of the chest that aids in the and burning
enclosure and protection of the heart, lungs and Sublimation – Process of a solid or gas changing
other internal organs states without becoming a liquid
Steroid – Medication that, when used, will thin the Submental artery – Artery that supplies the chin
skin and increase its sensitivity and the lower lip with blood
Stick – Hard, low-level water or anhydrous product Suction machine – Machine that acts like a
applied to the skin by rubbing the product directly miniature vacuum cleaner to help in deep pore
on the desired area cleansing, drawing out dirt, impurities and grease
Stimulating oil – Aromatherapy oil that boosts from the skin
circulation to the skin Sudoriferous (soo-dohr-IF-er-us) gland – Also called
Stock – Total merchandise kept on supply for future a duct gland; gland that secretes into canal-like
use by a merchant, commercial establishment, structures, or ducts, that deposits its contents on
warehouse or manufacturer the surface of the skin; produces sweat, a mixture of
Stratum corneum (KOHR-nee-um) – Toughest layer water, urea, electrolytes and lactic acid
of the epidermis Sugaring – Hair removal technique that originated
Stratum germinativum (jur-mih-nah-TIV-um) – in Egypt; a paste made primarily of sugar is applied
Also known as the basal layer; lowest layer of the to the surface of the skin in a rolling motion; when
epidermis containing basal cells that continually removed, it takes the hair along with it
divide through mitosis to replace the cells that are Sunscreen – Also called UV absorbers or UV
lost from the stratum corneum blockers; skin care product that protects the skin
Stratum granulosum (gran-yoo-LOH-sum) – Layer from the harmful UVA rays and UVB rays projected
of the epidermis below the stratum lucidum and from the sun
above the stratum spinosum in which the cells Sunscreen allergen – Ingredient in sunscreens that
become more regularly shaped and look like many is a common allergen
tiny granules Supercilia – Eyebrow hair
Stratum lucidum – Transparent layer that Superficial chemical peel – Facial treatment; light
lies between the stratum corneum and chemical peel that uses alpha hydroxyl acid, glycolic
stratum granulosum acid or lactic acid and affects only the epidermis
Stratum spinosum (spin-OH-sum) – Spiny layer Superficial temporal (su-pur-FI-shul TEM-po-ral)
that provides strength and support between cells artery – Artery supplying blood to the sides and top
Streptococci (strep-to-KOK-sigh) – Pus-forming of the head; branches into five smaller arteries that
bacterial cells, which form in long chains and supply more precise locations
can cause septicemia (sometimes called blood Superioris (su-peer-ee-OR-es) – Term that means
poisoning), strep throat, rheumatic fever and other located above or larger than
serious infections
Superior labial artery – Artery supplying the upper
Stress – Tense, “tied-up-in-knots” feeling caused lip and septum with blood
when life’s circumstances become challenging
or ambiguous Superior vena cava – Vein that carries oxygen-poor
blood to the right auricle

GLOSSARY
Supinator (SU-pi-nat-or) – Muscle that runs parallel Telangiectasia – Skin condition marked by dilated
to the ulna and turns the palm of the hand up capillaries that indicate damage to the skin and
Supraorbital nerve – Nerve that extends to the skin possible heightened sensitivity; should be treated
of the upper eyelid, eyebrow, forehead and scalp with gentle massage and soothing, mild products
Supratrochlear (soo-pra-TRO-klee-ur) nerve – Nerve Telogen – Third phase of hair growth cycle during
that extends to the skin of the upper side of the which hair sheds and the follicle rests and prepares
nose and between the eyes to resume the anagen phase
Surfactant (sur-FAC-tent) – Large category of Temporal (TEM-poh-ral) bone – Bone located on
ingredients with the ability to bind a wide variety of either side of the head, directly above the ear and
organic and inorganic matter to water below the parietal bone
Suspension – Cosmetic product category; the even Temporal (TEM-po-ral) branch – Nerve that extends
dispersion of a solid substance in a liquid base to the muscles of the temple, the side of the
forehead, the eyebrow, eyelid and upper cheek
Sympathetic nervous system – Sub-system of the
autonomic nervous system that accelerates the Temporalis (tem-po-RA-lis) muscle – Muscle located
heart rate, constricts blood vessels and raises above and in front of the ear that opens and closes
blood pressure the jaw (as in chewing, or mastication)
Synapses (SI-nap-ses) – Junctions across which Temporary hair removal – Hair removal
nerve impulses pass classification that includes procedures, such as
shaving, the use of chemical depilatories, tweezing
System – Group of organs that, together, perform and waxing
one or more vital functions for the body
Tendon – Fibrous cord of connective tissue that
Systematic medication – Medication taken orally; links muscles and bones
travels through the body in the bloodstream
Tendonitis – Medical condition that occurs when
Systemic circulation – Also known as general tendons become inflamed
circulation; process in which blood travels from the
heart throughout the body and back to the heart Terminal – Thicker, pigmented hair that grows on
areas of the body after puberty
Systemic disease – Disease that is active internally
throughout the body system Tertiary colors – Color classification; the six colors
that result when primary colors are mixed with their
neighboring secondary color in varying proportions
T Tesla Current – Also known as High Frequency
Tabbing – Method of applying individual eyelashes Current; electrical current; an alternating (or
Tact – Term used to describe the ability to be oscillating) current that can be adjusted to different
truthful without being offensive voltages to produce heat
Tactile (TAK-tile) receptor – Sensory cell that senses Thalassotherapy – Any treatment using sea
gentle touch, pressure or vibration products, such as seawater, sea mud, sea sand and
sea plants
Tactile corpuscle (TAK-tile COR-pus-el) – Sensory
cell that reports fine touch, pressure and vibrations Thermal effect – Effect on the skin of warmth
created by the friction generated from resistance to
Tapotement (tah-pot-e-MAHNT) – Also known as the flow of electricity
percussion; a message manipulation; light tapping
or slapping movement applied with the fingertips or Thermal energy – Heat energy; involves movement
partly flexed fingers of heat from a warmer body to a cooler body;
can be transferred from one object to another by
T-cell – Immune cell that recognizes antigens conduction, convection or radiation
displayed in Langerhans cells to assist in
destroying them
Tea Tree – Aromatherapy ingredient used in
treating acne; has antiseptic and antimicrobial
benefits perfect for treating problem skin

GLOSSARY
Thermolysis – Permanent hair removal method that Tinea versicolor (VUR-si-color) – Commonly known
involves inserting a single needle into the follicle, as Tri-Color Yeast infection or Pityriasis versicolor;
current travels to the papilla for less than a second, a noncontagious infection that produces
resulting in a coagulation of the cells that destroys hypopigmented areas, usually on the neck, chest,
the papilla; also called High Frequency/short wave back and arms
electrolysis method Tint – Color hue with white added
Thermoreceptor (THUR-mo-re-sep-ter) – Sensory Tissue – Group of similar cells that act together to
nerve located in the dermis that responds to perform some specific function within the body
temperature changes
Toner – Skin care product that assists in cleansing
Thermoregulation – Body function that lowers body skin and returns normal to dry skin to a normal pH
temperature
Topical antibiotic – Medication prescribed by a
Thickener – Cosmetic ingredient that helps increase physician to dry the skin and kill the bacteria that
the density in emulsions and gel-type products; causes acne, rosacea and other skin conditions;
allows for suspension of small particle solids in a will heighten sensitivity and dryness; may be a
base by creating enough of a supporting structure to possible contraindication for exfoliation treatments
prevent settling and waxing
Third-degree burn – Type of burn that destroys all Topical medication – Medication applied directly to
layers of the skin and damages underlying tissue, the skin
including nerves
Touch – One of the five primary senses; the most
Thoracic (tho-RAS-ik) vertebrae – Also known as personal of the five senses; lowers blood pressure,
the spine; one of the bones of the thorax that relieves stress, stimulates circulation and promotes
encloses and protects the heart, lungs and other feelings of security and comfort
internal organs
Touch receptor (TUCH re-SEP-ter) – Sensory nerve
Thorax – Also known as the chest; bony cage cell that reports shape or texture; also called a
composed of the spine, the sternum and 12 ribs that sensory cell
encloses and protects the heart, lungs and other
internal organs Trachea (TRAY-kee-ah) – Component of the
respiratory system; pathway through which air flows
Threading – Ancient method of hair removal that
originated in the Middle East and is still used Transdermal penetration – Process of absorption
frequently in India and Pakistan; technique utilizes into the skin
a 100% cotton thread that is twisted and rolled Transverse artery – Artery that supplies masseter
along the surface of the skin, entwining the hair in with blood
the thread and then lifting it from the follicle Trapezius (trah-PEE-zee-us) – Muscle that covers
Thyroid – Primary hormonal gland that regulates the back of the neck and upper back and draws
the human body; overactive thyroid can result in the head back; controls the shoulder blades and
excess sebum production, while an underactive swinging motions of the arms
thyroid can result in a lack of sebum and dryness Treatment record – Skin care form; last section of
Tincture – Commercial extraction that requires Client Consultation Form to be filled out by the
soaking an herb in alcohol to extract the active esthetician; used as a reference at the time of
ingredient from the plant each appointment
Tinea (TIN-ee-ah) – Medical term for ringworm; Triadic color scheme – Art principle that uses
contagious fungal disease characterized by a red three colors located in a triangular position on
circular patch of blisters; caused by fungal the color wheel
vegetable parasite Triangularis (tri-an-gu-LAR-us) – Also known as the
Tinea corporis (TIN-ee-ah KOR-pur-is) – Fungal depressor anguli; muscle located below the corners
infection affecting the trunk, legs or arms; of the mouth; draws the corners of the mouth
characterized by a pink to red rash and itching down, as in expressing sadness

GLOSSARY
Tricep (TRI-sep) – Muscle that extends the length Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) rating –
of the upper arm posteriorly; controls forward Government-approved agency that shows an
movement of the forearm appliance has been certified to operate safely under
Tricuspid (tri-KUS-pid) valve – Pathway for blood the conditions specified in the instructions
pumped from the right auricle to the right ventricle Universal precaution – Safety measure using the
Trifacial (trye-FAY-shul) nerve – Also called the same infection control practices with all clients
trigeminal (trye-JEM-i-nul) nerve or fifth cranial Upper respiratory tract – Nose, mouth, pharynx
nerve; chief sensory nerve of the face that controls and larynx
sensations of the face, tongue and teeth Urea (u-REE-ah) – Converted and neutralized
Trochlear (TROCK-lee-ur) nerve – Also called the ammonia from the circulatory system
fourth cranial nerve; motor nerve that controls the Ureter (U-re-tur) – Tube through which waste
motion of the eye products travel to be eliminated from the body
Tuberculosis (too-BUR-cu-lo-sis) – Contagious, UVA ray – Longest of the ultraviolet rays; most
and potentially fatal, infection caused by airborne frequently used in tanning booths
bacteria that first affect the lungs
UVA/UVB absorber – Sunscreen ingredient that
Tumor (too-mer) – Solid mass within the skin that absorbs the sun’s rays and deflects them throughout
may be soft or hard, fixed or freely moving; also the layers of skin
called a nodule
UVA/UVB blocker – Sunscreen ingredient that
Tweezer – Implement used to shape eyebrows, blocks the skin by reflecting the sun’s rays back off
remove stray hairs and apply artificial eyelashes the surface of the skin
Tweezing – Technique used to remove unwanted UVB ray – Ultraviolet ray that people are exposed to
hair from smaller areas, such as the eyebrows, chin most frequently from the natural sun; referred to as
or around the mouth; an individual hair is grasped “the burning ray”
with the tweezers and removed in the direction
UVC ray – Ultraviolet rays that are beyond the
of the hair growth, effectively extracting it from
ozone; have little effect on the exposure that the
beneath the skin’s surface
skin receives
Two-way communication – Type of communication
describing the act of listening and asking questions
to gather information V
Vaccination – Injection of antigens to stimulate the
body’s immune response
U
Vacuum – Machine that creates mild suction, which
Ulcer (UL-ser) – Open lesion visible on the surface
increases circulation to the surface of the skin
of the skin that may result in the loss of portions of
the dermis and may be accompanied by pus Vagus (VAY-gus) nerve – Tenth cranial nerve;
nerve controlling motion and sensation of the ear,
Ulna (UL-nah) – Bone located on the little finger
pharynx, pneumogastric (larynx, heart, lungs and
side of the lower arm
esophagus); helps regulate the heartbeat
Ulnar nerve – Nerve extending down the little finger
Value – Lightness or darkness of a color
side of the arm into the palm of the hand
Variable cost – Financial term describing cost
Ultraviolet light – Also referred to as UV; skin care
changes on a monthly basis, including cost of
equipment that produces positive or negative effects
utilities, supplies, promotions, postage and taxes
on the skin, depending on the exposure time
Variable rent – Type of lease in which renter pays
Ultraviolet rays – Also known as actinic or cold
set dollar amount per month plus a percentage of
rays; invisible rays slightly shorter than the
the total monthly income
wavelengths that produce the visible light ray
seen as the color violet Varicose (VAR-ih-kose) vein – Permanently
dilated vein, most commonly occurring in the
Underarm wax – Waxing technique removing the
legs; swollen veins
hair from underneath the arms

GLOSSARY
Vein – Tubular, elastic, thin-walled branching W

vessel that carries oxygen-depleted blood from the
Warm color – Color classification that contains red
capillaries to the heart
or yellow undertones
Vellus – Thin, soft, unpigmented hair covering
Warm undertone – Color classification that contains
the body
light peach, yellow or medium peach
Venule – Small vein that joins capillaries to
Wart – Viral infection on the top layer of skin
larger veins
caused by the Human Papilloma Virus (HPV); also
Verbal communication – Type of communication called verruca (VA-roo-kah)
involving level and tone of voice, inflection and rate
Water – Clear, colorless, odorless, tasteless liquid
of speech used to exchange messages
essential for almost all living things
Verruca (VA-roo-kah) – Also called warts; viral
Water-in-oil emulsion (W/O) – Cosmetic product
infections on the top layer of skin caused by the
type in which small water droplets are evenly
Human Papilloma Virus (HPV)
dispersed in an oil-based solution
Vertebrae – Bones that make up the spine
Water therapy – Also known as hydrotherapy
Vesicle (VES-i-kul) – Type of lesion; fluid- or aquatherapy; companion therapy that can be
filled elevation in the skin caused by localized used to moisturize, cleanse, rejuvenate and help
accumulation of fluids or blood just below the eliminate toxins
epidermis; also known as a blister
Watt – Measure of how much electrical energy is
Vibration (vy-BRAY-shun) – Shaking massage being used
manipulation achieved when the esthetician quickly
Wavelength – Measurement from the crest of one
shakes his or her arms while the fingertips or palms
wave to the crest of the next
Waxing – Temporary hair removal process that
Vibrissae (vi-BRIS-see) – Mucus membranes in the
involves applying wax directly to the skin and then
nose that filter out dust, dirt and foreign debris
removing the wax and hair
Villi (VIL-i) – Finger-like projections of the intestine
Wen – Harmless sebaceous cyst filled with sebum
walls that absorb nutrients
that usually appears on the scalp, neck or back;
Virus – Sub-microscopic infectious agent that ranges in size from a pea to an orange; also called
replicates itself only within cells of living hosts; a steatoma
many are pathogenic
Wheal (weel) – Solid formation above the skin, often
Viscosity – Thickness or density of a product caused by insect bites or an allergic reaction
Viscosity modifiers – Ingredients that help increase White blood cell (WBC) – Also called leucocyte
the density in emulsions and gel-type products; may (LOO-ko-site) or white corpuscle; blood cell that
be organic compounds helps protect the body by fighting bacteria and other
Visible light – Portion of the electromagnetic foreign substances; increases in number when
spectrum humans can see infection invades the body
Visualization close – Strategy that helps the client to Whitehead – Plugged sebaceous gland with an
visualize using the product, then seeing the results opening that is not widely dilated; also referred to as
a closed comedo
Vitamin – Ingredient that delivers a variety of
benefits to the skin; organic substances essential for White light – Also referred to as combination light;
normal growth and activity visible light that can be broken into its individual
wavelengths by a prism
Vitiligo (VIT-i-LEYE-goh) – Acquired skin disease
characterized by white patches caused by loss of Whorl – Epidermal ridge that gives palms and
pigment in melanin cells soles traction
Volt – Unit of electric pressure; short for voltage
Voluntary muscle – Also known as the striated
(STRI-at-ed) muscle; muscle that responds to
conscious commands

GLOSSARY
Withholding tax – Tax taken from employee’s

income; the owner of a skin care center is
responsible for keeping a percentage of funds from
an employee’s income for payment of certain taxes
to the government
Word-of-mouth – News that is spread by verbal
communication; best form of advertising in any
customer service business
Worker’s compensation insurance – State-controlled
insurance required by law to cover any expense
resulting from an injury to an employee while
working in the skin care center
Wound – Break in the continuity of the skin caused
by trauma to the tissue
Wringing – Massage manipulation; form of
friction used on the arms and body; client’s skin
is grasped several inches apart and twisted in
opposite directions
X
Xerosis – Dry, scaly skin caused by reduced sebum
production; also called Asteatosis
Y
Yeast – Type of fungus found naturally in and on
the human body
Yeast infection – Also known as candida;
superficial fungal infection that occurs on
moist areas of the skin
Ylang-Ylang – Aromatherapy oil incorporated into
body therapies to enhance circulation; has antiseptic
and soothing qualities
Z
Zygomatic (zi-go-MAT-ik) bones – Also known as
the malar (MA-ler) bones; two bones that form the
upper cheek and the bottom of the eye socket
Zygomatic (zi-go-MAT-ik) nerve – Nerve that
extends to the side of the forehead, temple and
upper part of the cheek
Zygomaticus (zi-go-MAT-ik-us) – Muscle located
outside the corners of the mouth; draws the mouth
up and back, as in laughing or smiling; consists of
zygomaticus major and minor

Unit 1 CAREER ESSENTIALS
1 - Personal Development
2 - Professional Development
3 - Business Basics
Unit 2 THE SCIENCE OF SKIN CARE
4 - Skin Care Center Ecology

5 - Anatomy
6 - Electricity and Electrical Equipment
7 - Chemistry
8 - Skin Physiology
Unit 3 T R E ATM EN TS A N D S ERV I C ES
9 - Client Care
10 - Facials
11 - Hair Removal
12 - Makeup
13 - Advanced Treatments
14 - Estheticians in the Medical Field
3
SF02V2TSG
©Pivot Point International, Inc.
pivot-point.com
Printed in Hong Kong
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ESTHETICS

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A Resource for Your Skin Care Career

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Janet Fisher, developer and author

© 2004 Clif St. Germain

Pivot Point International, Inc.

847-866-0500 (Outside U.S.)

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The Science of Skin Care

Treatments and Services

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OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I CHAPTER 10, FACIALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291

UNIT 3 TREATMENTS AND SERVICES

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Previewing sets the stage for purposeful

Research tells us that 80% of what you

Let’s see how it works. Here is a sample

Its importance to you personally (VALUE)

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Once you’ve seen the big picture, your MINDFRAME

Some years ago, Dr. Walter Paulk, from Cornell

The top of each SmartNotes page identifies the

Here are recommendations for using these pages:

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Successfully NAMING what you

One excellent way for your brain to make

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You’re probably wondering: How do I make a Thinking Map?

The connections you are making need to stand

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In this Study Guide, your SELF-CHECKING

Here is your long-awaited chance to put your

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Salon Fundamentals™ Esthetics xi

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Total = Addition of all Teacher Assessment Boxes

Percentage = Student Score Divided by 81 (Highest Possible Score) Percentage %

Here’s how you will know one level from another:

Level 1 means you’re still “In Progress.”

Level 2 means you’re “Getting Better.”

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energy at theend of the test as you had the beginning

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The staff of Salon Fundamentals Esthetics

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VALUE MAIN IDEA

Courtesy of Design Forum.

Healthy Mind n Rest and Relaxation n Identify the importance of proper

Effective n Nonverbal n List the two main types of

Purposeful n Personality n Describe how personality, teamwork

Salon Fundamentals™ Esthetics

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Chapter 1 Personal Development Healthy Mind and Body Pages 3-4

n Rest and Relaxation Prevents poor health and disease

Inadequate Sleep n Slows reaction time

Exercise Routine Well-balanced exercise routine includes three disciplines:

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Chapter 1 Personal Development Healthy Mind and Body Pages 4-5

Exercise Routine Three disciplines of a well-balanced exercise routine, cont’d.:

n Stress Round out exercise program by exercising your mind

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Chapter 1 Personal Development Healthy Mind and Body Pages 5-7