AMIGURUMI PATTERN – Mad Hatter by CreativeChaosofMargaux

Here’s a very whimsical, gender-bender take on the Mad Hatter. With the indicated yarn and hook size,
you can make about a 10-inch tall doll including the height of the hat. Just the perfect charming toy to
adorn your shelf, table, bed, or even be your colorful travel adventure buddy!

MATERIALS
• acrylic yarns, 4 ply with your choice of colors (for reference, I used Red Heart Yarns Super Saver
in Aran for the head and hands, Tea Leaf for the hat and skirt stripe, Real Teal for the jacket and
upper part of the skirt, Jade for the inner shirt and skirt and hat stripe, Pink and Boysenberry for
the legs and hat sign, black for the shoes, Orchid for the hair, Yellow for bowtie)
• 2.75 mm crochet hook
• buttons for the eyes or safety eyes with your choice of colors and sizes (I used15mm buttons for
the eyes)
• fiberfill
• a pair of scissors
• tapestry needle for sewing
• lighter yarn (to sew the eyes and the rest of the face)
• floral wire or any thin bendable wire for the hat brim (about 14 inches long)
• acrylic paints
• paintbrush
• fine-toothed comb for brushing the hair
• embellishments such as buttons (optional)

ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain dec = decrease
st =stitch inc = increase
sl st = slip stitch scfl = single crochet in front loop only
sc = single crochet scbl = single crochet in back loop only
rep = repeat (..) = repeat the space in brackets the given number of times
[..] = total number of stitches

Remember to add stuffing to body, head and legs as you go up higher in the rows. It will be difficult to
stuff once the opening gets narrower.

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BODY
Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
R2: inc 6x [12]
R3: inc 12x [24]
R4: (sc in the next 3 st, inc in the next st) rep 6x [30]
R5: sc in all 30 st [30]
R6: (sc in the next 3 st, dec) rep 6x [24]
R7-R8: sc in all 24 st [24]
R9: (sc in the next 2 st, dec) rep 6x [18]
R10: (sc in the next st, dec) rep 6x [12] continue to head

HEAD
R11: inc 12x [24]
R12: (sc in the next 3 st, inc in the next st) rep 6x [30]
R13: (sc in the next 2 st, inc, sc in the next 2 st) rep 6x [36]
R14: (sc in the next 5 st, inc in the next st) rep 6x [42]
R15: (sc in the next 3 st, inc, sc in the next 3 st) rep 6x [48]
R16-R20: sc in all 48 st [48]
R21: (sc in the next 6 st, dec) rep 6x [42]
R22: (sc in the next 5 st, dec) rep 6x [36]
R23: (sc in the next 4 st, dec) rep 6x [30]
R24: (sc in the next 3 st, dec) rep 6x [24]
R25: dec, rep 12x [12]
R26: dec, rep 6x [6] Close off. Fasten off and weave in the end.

SHOES (make 2)
Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
R2: inc 6x [12]
R3: inc 12x [24]
R4: scbl in all 24 st [24]
R5: sc in the next 6 st, dec 6x, sc in the next 6 st [18]
R6: sc in the next 3 st, dec 6x, sc in the next 3 st [12]
R7: sc in the next 3 st, dec 3x, sc in the next 3 st [9]
R8: scfl in all 9 st [9] …Cut, weave in the ends. Continue to legs

LEGS (make 2)
To connect the shoes with the legs:
R9: in R7, scbl all the stitches -- pull through loop of the yarn (start at the back of the shoes) in the back
loop, then sc 9 all the way around.
R10 – R17: sc in all 9 st [9]

Close off and leave a tail for attaching to the body. Add stripes by winding yarn around the legs. Secure
the yarn by looping around one stitch (at the back of the legs) every after 2 to 3 rows.

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SKIRT

Start with the skirt with the doll upside down so that the “correct” side of the skirt will be on the
front and not underneath. (see direction of arrow in picture below)
R1: (WAIST) In the sc post between R5 and R6 of the body and starting from the back of the doll, sc 30
all the way around each post. Because the rows are in spiral, the post you started at and the post that
you will end at will not meet. To resolve this, sc the last st in diagonal (picture on the right below).
Continue with the rows.

R2: sc in all 30 st [30]

R3: (sc in the next 4 st, inc in the next st) rep 6x [36]
R4 – R5: sc in all 36 st [36]
R6: (sc in the next 5 st, inc in the next st) rep 6x [42]
R7: sc in all 42 st [42]

COLLAR

Sc, ch 2 all the way around the R10 sc posts of the body.

Sew the eyes (between R15 and R16 of the head or wherever is preferred). I
used a lighter, thinner yarn. If you don’t have this, separate the 4 ply yarn into
2 and use 2 ply for the eyebrows, stitched nose and mouth.

JACKET

Ch8, sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in all 6 ch.

Ch1, turn, sc in all 7 sc (do this 18x). You should have 19 rows in all.

JACKET COLLAR

Once you have finished the last sc of the 19th row, turn to the side, ch 2, and
hdc into each of the sc post. When you reach the 2nd to the last sc post, ch 2
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and sl st into the beginning chain.

The opposite corners of the length of the jacket should reach just about all
the way around the uppermost part of the body, and widening towards waist.
Attach on the body with the flap (or collar) facing outward.

HANDS (make 2) (no need to stuff)

Round 1: make a magic ring and do 6 sc [6]
R2-R3: sc in all 6 st [6] Continue to arms

ARMS/SLEEVES
R4- R13: sc in all 6 st [6]
Close off and leave a tail for attaching to body

CUFFS
Sc all the way around the sc post of R4

*ATTACH arms to each side of R9 or R10 of the body. Make sure that
you sew into the jacket and onto the body to attach firmly.

HAT

Round 1: make a magic ring and do 6 sc [6]

R2: inc 6x [12]
R3: inc 12x [24]
R4: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) rep 6x [30]
R5: (sc in the next 2 st, inc, sc in the next 2) rep 6x [36]
R6: (sc in the next 5 st, inc) rep 6x [42]
R7: (sc in the next 3 st, inc, sc in the next 3) rep 6x [48]
R8: (sc in the next 7 st, inc) rep 6x [54]
R9: scbl in all 54 st [54]
R10: sc in all 54 st [54]
R11: (sc in the next 7 st, dec) rep 6x [48]
R12-R13: sc in all 48 st [48]
R14: (sc in the next 6 st, dec) rep 6x [42]
R15 –R17: (change color) sc in all 42 st [42]
R18: scfl in the next 3 st, inc, sc fl in the next 3 st) rep 6x [48]
R19: (sc in the next 7 st, inc) rep 6x [54]

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R20: (sc in the next 8 st, inc) rep 6x [60]
R21: (sc in the next 9 st, inc) rep 6x [66] (sc into the floral wire. Secure and
curl both ends or cover them with hot glue to avoid snagging the yarn.

HAIR
Cut 84 strands of 3-4 inches in length. Attach 2 underneath the hat, to each
of the back loops of the hat (42 loops)

The underside of the hat should look like this once all the strands have been
attached.

The top and front of the hat and hair should look like this.

Comb through the strands gently, starting at the ends to separate the plys Do
this in sections. Continue combing until you reach the top, almost to where
the knots are.

Some yarn fibers and fluff will be caught in the comb and this is all right. Use
the fibers that were combed out as stuffing for the hat to avoid wastage.

Comb through the entire hair until all the plys have separated and knots have
been removed then attach the hat onto the head. Make sure that the knots of
the strands are tucked in underneath so that they will not show once the hat
is attached to the head.

Trim hair to preferred length.

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10/6 HAT SIGN

Ch6, sc into the 2nd chain from the hook. Sc in the next 4 st
Turn, ch 1, sc into all 5 st. Repeat this until you have made 5 rows. Leave a
long tail end to use to attach on the hat.

Embroider the 10/6 sign using running and whipping stitches.

Attach the sign onto the side of the hat.

ADDITIONAL EMBELLISHMENTS/MODIFICATION

Attach buttons to the skirt and sew on shoelaces.

Turn the skirt into a pair of shorts by inserting yarn into center R5 of the skirt,

laying it over the hems of the skirt underneath and then over the back of the
skirt,

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pulling it tight and knotting it onto the back of the skirt.

BOWTIE

Ch5, sc into the 2nd chain from the hook. Sc in the next 3 st
Turn, ch 1, sc into all 4 st. Repeat this until you have made 3 rows.

Leave a long tail end to use to wind around the center of the bowtie to shape
it and to attach on the top center of the body, just below the chin and in front
of the collar.

How to add acrylic paint

Get just a very small amount of paint with your brush and wipe on rag to
ensure that there is very little paint on the brush. It is important to start
coloring very lightly, first behind the button, and then spread towards the
outer edges. Add more paint if darker color is desired. I used a combination
of neon green, aquamarine and blue on one eye, and light purple, purple and
scarlet on the other eye.

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Some tips when painting/staining your doll

• Make sure that the brush is dry. Using a wet brush with paint will make the yarn absorb the paint
more easily and has a tendency to stain a wider area very quickly. With acrylic paint, you may
want to be careful because it is permanent, so light application is advisable. Then just add paint
gradually and layer by layer if darker color is desired.
• What I like about button eyes is that I can test the amount of paint on the brush and the weight of
my fingers BEHIND the buttons first. If the paint gets too dark, I can just spread it in the direction
of the outer eye.
• Acrylic paint dries fast so you may have to work a little more quickly!
• In case you make a mistake, wiping alcohol can also help a little bit to fade the stain.

You may also use actual makeup (eyeshadow) but this technique is not permanent. Makeup may fade
over time. But you can reapply and it will be good practice. If you make a mistake, you can wipe the
makeup off with a wet tissue or rag.

IG: @creativechaosofmargaux
Email: creativechaosofmargaux@gmail.com

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