Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Civil Project Last Edition
Civil Project Last Edition
1.1 Introduction
Civil engineering has played a vital role in shaping the modern world we
live in today. From towering skyscrapers to intricate transportation
systems and resilient infrastructure, the contributions of civil engineers
have left a lasting impact on society. To honor this legacy and preserve
the knowledge and expertise of civil engineering, the construction of a
legacy workshop specifically designed for this field holds great
significance.
1.2.1 Aim
The aim of this project is to construct the walls for civil engineering
legacy workshop
1.2.2 Objectives
This project is limited to the reactivation and the laying of the building
blocks
railways.[3]
1.5.2 Workshop
1.5.3 Building
aesthetic reasons.[6]
CHAPTER TWO
Literature review
The functions of the civil engineer can be divided into three categories:
those performed before construction (feasibility studies, site
investigations, and design), those performed during construction
(dealing with clients, consulting engineers, and contractors), and those
performed after construction (maintenance and research).
Since the load-bearing qualities and stability of the ground are such
important factors in any large-scale construction, it is surprising that a
serious study of soil mechanics did not develop until the mid-
1930s. Karl von Terzaghi, the chief founder of the science, gives the
date of its birth as 1936, when the First International Conference on
Soil Mechanics and Foundation Engineering was held at Harvard
University and an international society was formed. Today there are
specialist societies and journals in many countries, and most
universities that have a civil engineering faculty have courses in soil
mechanics.
2.3.3 Design
the technology of materials has opened the way for more rational
designs, new design concepts, and greater economy of materials. The
theory of structures and the study of materials have advanced together
as more and more refined stress analysis of structures and systematic
testing has been done. Modern designers noty have advanced theories
and readily available design data, but structural designs can now be
rigorously analyzed by computers.[9]
2.4.1 Construction
2.4.2 Transportation
3.1 Materials
Trowel
Fig. 1 Trowel
Hammer
A hammer is a tool, most often a hand tool, consisting of a weighted
"head" fixed to a long handle that is swung to deliver an impact to a
small area of an object.
Chisel
Fig. 3 A Chisel
Spirit Level
Shovel
A shovel is a tool used for digging, lifting, and moving bulk materials,
such as soil, coal, gravel, snow, sand, or ore.
Fig.5 A Shovel
Wheelbarrow
Sandcrete Blocks
String line
A string line is one of the oldest and most basic of hand tools, and it is
commonly used in masonry and carpentry to help the user create a
straight line between two reference points.
Fig.10 Cement
Reinforced bar
Wood
Wood is a structural tissue found in the stems and roots of trees and
other woody plants which we use for most construction work such as
formworks, doors, roofs etc.
Fig.13 Wood
Fine Aggregate
3.1.1 Concrete
Solid Wall.
concrete laid in mortar with the blocks laid to overlap in some form of
what is called bonding or as a monolith, that is, one solid uninterrupted
material such as concrete which is poured wet and hardens into a solid
monolith (one piece of stone). A solid wall of bricks or blocks may be
termed a block (or masonry) wall, and a continuous solid wall of
concrete, a monolithic wall.
Materials: Choose appropriate materials for the DPC layer, which can
include bitumen, plastic, or other water-resistant materials.
Sealing: Seal joints and connections properly to prevent any gaps that
could allow moisture to bypass the DPC.
Before you do anything, you will need to measure the area you need. It
can be annoying to run out halfway through, and an expensive mistake
to over-order. As a rule of thumb, there are 60 bricks per square metre
for a single skin wall (half brick wall) and 120 bricks per square metre
for a one brick thick solid wall.
One of the most important parts of a brick wall is the foundation. This is
the support for your wall, and the trench size will depend on the width
and height of your masonry wall. For reference, you will need a half a
metre deep trench for a brick wall up to one metre in height. Make sure
you check the measurements before digging as a solid trench is
essential to prevent your wall from collapsing.
Drive wooden stakes to find the optimal height for your bricks in your
trench. Spread the stakes two to four feet apart (depending on the
length of your wall) and ensure they are completely level. The first row
of bricks should sit flush in the foundation. Fill the foundation with
concrete, making sure to keep it level and fill to the top of the stakes.
Leave it to dry for 2 - 3 days.[17]
Once you have your foundation, you need to set up gauging rods to
ensure your brickwork is consistently level. The easiest way to do this is
to get a piece of timber and cut it to the height of your finished wall.
Next, mark 65mm lines (if using standard sized bricks) to determine
where each row (also known as a course) should be. Make sure these
are freestanding and in the ground at either end of your masonry wall.
Set up a string line from one gauging rod to the other. This will be for
your second row of bricks, as the first string will be sitting in the trench.
Make sure the line is straight and level with no sag.
Next, mix your mortar on an old damp board. Make sure you follow
manufacturer instructions, as the strength of your wall can depend on
your mortar mix. The mortar should slip easily from your shovel,
although the mixture should be firm enough to hold its shape. Only mix
what you need and don't let the mortar sit for more than an hour or
two.Soak the bricks in water and let them drip dry. This will ensure that
they bond correctly with the mortar. Although, make sure that there is
no water running off the bricks as it can make the mortar too wet.[18]
Once the foundation is dry, it's time to get started! Place mortar on the
foundation and make a 'v' shape along the mortar with your trowel.
Creating a 'v' shaped trench spreads the mortar out and makes it easier
to lay the course. Place the brick in the mortar and press it firmly into
place, taking care to make it level.
Grab the next brick and add mortar to the short edge before placing it
down hard up against the first brick. Tap it into place and remove any
excess mortar with your trowel. The remaining mortar can be reused as
long as it is free from any dirt or debris. Repeat the process for the first
course. Check that the bricks are flush using the spirit level. Also,
ensure you consistently keep 10mm of mortar between the bricks.
Otherwise, the strength of your wall may be compromised. [19]
Now it's time for the second course! Start the row by placing the cut
brick down on a bed of mortar. Make sure your string line is in the right
place, and the brick meets the string. Place the next brick, and check
that it is flush and continue. Repeat the process until you have
completed the second course.
Continue working your way upward until you reach the desired height.
Move the string line with each row and continuously check that your
wall is level. Don't forget to include the 10mm for mortar!
Once you have reached the final height, it's time to add the finishing
touches. Depending on the purpose of your masonry wall, you may
decide to use different joining patterns. One example could be a soldier
course, where bricks are turned vertically, with the ends facing out.
There are many different variations you can use to improve the visual
aesthetics of your wall. Once you have all bricks in place, do a quick
spot check and patch any gaps with mortar along the wall using the
trowel.
Go over the brick wall using a soft brush to remove any excess mortar
before it dries. Make sure you clean up any mortar that has fallen on
the ground too. You will also need to cover your wall overnight with a
tarp or polythene sheet to protect it from the elements such as rain or
frost. This is temporary and should only be needed for the first night.
If you're matching the brick to existing brickwork, you may need to tint
and/or weather the brickwork. This will already be covered in our
matching process.[20]
•Pouring Concrete: Pour the concrete mix into the formwork, making
sure it flows evenly around the reinforcement. Consolidate the
concrete to remove air pockets and ensure proper bonding with the
reinforcement.
•Curing: Allow the concrete to cure and harden. Proper curing helps
prevent cracks and ensures the concrete's strength development.
•Finishing: After the concrete has set, the surface can be finished as
required. This might involve smoothing, texturing, or applying coatings.
CHAPTER FOUR
4.0 RESULT AND DISCUSSION
4.1 RESULT
Key Achievements:
4.2 DISCUSSION
5.1 Conclusion
5.2 Recommendation
APPENDIX
Fig.23 Ground floor plan
REFERENCES
[1] J. Y Richard Liew, Civil Engineering Handbook, London; CRC press,
1995.
[5] J. K. Ascher, the work, New York city; penguin press Hc, 2005
[7] J. E. Gordon ,"civil engineering" in structures, 1st Ed, New York :Da
capo press, 1978,PP. 47-59
[18] I.C. Mark. Structual hand book ,New york : Dove press Inc, 1992.