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1541393156H08TM33 Qi
1541393156H08TM33 Qi
Module Code and Title: H08TM33 Testing for woven fabrics - handle properties
Name of the Content Writer: Mrs. R. Sukanya Devi
Introduction:
Fabric handle as the name itself implies, is concerned with feel of the material and so
depends upon the sense of touch. It compresses appearance and comfort. Fabric handle is a
subjective phenomenon because it differs from person to person and it’s a challenge to
predict it.This is evaluated by consumers and textile producers subjectively by means of his
hand touch of the fabric from mechanical comfort view point. Subjective method is the most
direct method to measure fabric handle but it restricts scientific understanding.Different types
of material will have different degree of smoothness or roughness when the fabric handle is
to be judges the sensation for stiffness , hardness or softness, roughness or smoothness are all
made use of. Thus to overcome the disadvantage of subjective measurement and also to have
theoretical understanding of fabric handle objective measurement is done.
There below are few parameters that have a greater influence on fabric handle:
Weight and density: Weight per unit area (GSM) or unit volume is considered. If the fabric
weight is high it will be hard to feel as compared to low weight fabric. Density measures the
compactness or relaxation of fabric. It the thread density in the fabric is more it will be more
compact when compared to low density. This contributes to the fullness of the fabric
Surface friction: It refers to resistance to be slipping either on the finger or on another piece
of fabric. For balanced fabric surface friction should be adjustable. Otherwise it will create
problem during processing and using. Fabrics vary in surface friction from harsh to slippery.
Sensation of the fabric like smoothness and roughness is contributed by the surface friction.
Bending Properties
• Where,
• G = Flexural rigidity.
• at θ = 7.1º, X = 1
• θ = 7.1º, C = L (mm)
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM33 Testing for woven fabrics - handle properties
Name of the Content Writer: Mrs. R. Sukanya Devi
So, pierce definition of bending length is “the length of rectangular strip of material which
will bend under its own mass to an angle of 7.1º.
• The ability of a fabric to deform by ‘shearing’ (so conform to the contours of the
body) differentiates, it from other thin sheet materials such as paper or plastic film.
• The term “Drape” used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight
determines how good a garment looks in use.
Compression
• During compression, the space between the fibres is decreased until they eventually
come into contact with one another.
• Inter yarn or inter fibre friction resist the slippage [Plastic Deformation]
• During determination of the handle of fabrics, the fabric is compressed between the
fingers.
• Quality of a carpet or any other soft material is judged by testing the compressibility.
Five different tests can be performed using KES for fabrics and the main mechanical
characteristics produced, are described below
Modules of KES
• 2. KES-FB2 - Bending
• 3. KES-FB3 - Compression
The below table provides the polar pair of expressions related to fabric hand as a fabric
physical property representing them as a subjective parameters vs objective parameters.
Parameters obtainted:
(d) Shear Rigidity G slope of curve between 0.5º and 2.5º shear Angle
2. KES-FB2 ® Bending
Parameters obtainted:
3. KES-FB3 ® Compression
The compressional properties between two plates and increasing the pressure while
continuously monitoring the sample thickness up to a max. pressure of
50gf/cm2(0.49N/cm2).The constant velocity of 20 micro.m/s is maintained. The
shape of the load thickness is similar to the shape of the tame ensile property curve,
and the parameters are used with the identification of compression energy ,resilience
and linearity of compression curve.
Compressional measurement is done by KES-F-3 as shown in Figure. The principle
of the apparatus is shown in Fig. is an example of the recorded curves. The
integration of the curve is computed by the computing block automatically.
The signal from the transducer is passed the filter having prescribed frequency
response and integrated to compute SMD.
Parameters obtained:
For geometrical smoothness sensor, single wire of the same diameter is used to measure
geometry more accurately. The signals from these sensors pass a frequency filer with a
second high-pass response. The sweep velocity is 1 mm/s. when we touch a fabric and sweep
our finger across the fabric surface, the sweep velocity is normally 5 cm/s; that is 1 Hz in an
actual sweep. A frequency component higher than about 250 Hz in an actual sweep is
naturally eliminated by the fingerprint surface and the transducer mechanism. The most
sensitive frequency range of human sensation is 50-200 Hz and a filter s used to deect only
this range, eliminating the noise component from surface sensing.
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM33 Testing for woven fabrics - handle properties
Name of the Content Writer: Mrs. R. Sukanya Devi
It is much simpler than KESF system. The FAST system, developed by CSIRO for quality
control and assurance of fabrics. FAST, or Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing, consists of a
series of instruments and test methods which are inexpensive, robust and simple to use. It
measures properties which are closely related to the ease of garment making-up and the
durability of worsted finishing. FAST-1 gives a direct reading of fabric thickness over a
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM33 Testing for woven fabrics - handle properties
Name of the Content Writer: Mrs. R. Sukanya Devi
range of loads with micrometre resolution. FAST-2 measures the fabric bending length and
its bending rigidity. FAST-3 measures fabric extensibility at low loads as well as its shear
rigidity. FAST-4 is a quick test for measuring fabric dimensional stability, including both the
relaxation shrinkage and the hygral expansion.
The below table provides the parameters obtained from each module:
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM33 Testing for woven fabrics - handle properties
Name of the Content Writer: Mrs. R. Sukanya Devi
• This instrument measures fabric thickness at various loads and surface thickness
• The fabric thickness at two different pressures enables the accurate measurement of
surface layer thickness
• This gives information about the hairiness or surface bulk of the fabric (closely
related to surface treatment like brushing, singeing)
• Released surface thickness is the measure of the surface thickness after the fabric has
exposed to steam or water
• The bending length is converted into bending rigidity, which is directly related to
fabric stiffness – an important component of fabric handle
• The operator error in aligning the sample is eliminated with the use of an optical
sensor
• The main problems associate with bending rigidity occurs in fabrics that have low
values. These fabrics due to the ease with which they bend, would be difficult to
handle and sew.
• This instrument measures fabric extension at various loads and bias extension
• Extensibility is measured at three loads 5 gf/cm (E5), 20 gf/cm (E20) and 100 gf/cm
(E100).
• Shear rigidity below 30N/m, the fabric deforms so easily that it may give problems in
handling, laying up and sewing.
• Conversely if it is above 80N/m then the fabric can be difficult to overfeed, mould,
etc.
• The test is completed in less than an hour as compared to the conventional one-day
test
• A forced convection oven, a template and a ruler are the only equipment required to
do the test
Advantages of FAST
• Fabric specifications
• II) Tailorability:
• Very extensible fabrics, which move around while being cut, cause problems
with sizing, pattern matching and sewing stage.
• Very extensible fabrics are difficult to match over a long seam length.
• Care must be taken when dealing with the fabrics which exhibits excessive
shrinkage