Butuan or Limasawa?

The Site of the First Mass in the Philippines: A

Reexamination of the
Evidence
by Miguel A. Bernard
Published in Kinaadman: A Journal of Southern Philippines, Vol. II (1981), pp 1-35

There's a historical debate about where the first Mass was held in the Philippines.
According to the records, this Mass took place on Easter Sunday, March 31, 1521. The
disagreement is about the exact location.
One side of the argument suggests that the Mass happened on an island called
"Mazaua," and two native leaders were present: the rajah of Mazaua and the
rajah of Butuan. After the Mass, they planted a wooden cross on a hill. Some
people believe that this "Mazaua" might refer to an island south of Leyte, which
today is known as Limasawa.
The other side of the debate proposes a different location. They point to a beach
called Masao at the mouth of the Agusan River in northern Mindanao, near the
present-day city of Butuan. They base this claim on a long-standing tradition that
persisted for centuries, from the 17th to the 19th century. They even erected a
monument in the 1870s to commemorate this event near the Agusan River.
One key historical source from the 17th century is Father Francisco Colin's
"Labor evangelica," which supports the Butuan tradition. He described Magellan's
arrival and the first Mass in his writings.
In short, the debate is about whether the first Mass took place on Limasawa
Island or on the beach at the Agusan River in Butuan. Both sides have their own
historical evidence and traditions to support their claims.

The 18th Century:

- In the 18th century, a section in Father Francisco Colin’s writings about the
island of Mindanao led to some confusion.
- Until the 1920s, the history textbook at Ateneo de Manila University supported
the Butuan tradition of the first Mass.
- However, opinions eventually shifted from Butuan to Limasawa. Some blamed
this shift on Americans Emma Blair and James Alexander Robertson, but a
Spanish Jesuit scholar named Father Pablo Pastells also played a role.

Evidence for Limasawa:

1. Evidence from Alba’s Log-Book:
- Francisco Albo was part of Magellan’s expedition and kept a log-book
during their journey.
- Albo’s log-book mentions reaching Philippine waters and seeing land
named Yunagan on March 16, 1521.

2. Evidence from Pigafetta:

a. Pigafetta’s account of the route they took.
b. Pigafetta’s map of the journey.
c. Mention of two native kings present.
 d. Noting seven days spent at “Mazaua.”
e. Some argue that Pigafetta’s omission of key details supports the
Limasawa claim.
3. Summary of Albo and Pigafetta’s Evidence:
- Albo’s log-book and Pigafetta’s accounts together provide evidence
supporting the Limasawa location.

4. Additional Evidence from the Legazpi Expedition:

- The Legazpi expedition also provides further evidence that adds weight to
the Limasawa claim.

In essence, the debate revolves around whether the first Mass happened in
Butuan or on Limasawa Island. Some historical sources and accounts seem to
lean towards Limasawa, but the controversy continues due to differing
interpretations of the evidence.

Albo’s Log-Book Evidence:

1. On March 16, 1521, as they sailed west from the Ladrones (islands), they
saw land to the northwest, but it had many shallow areas. They later learned
it was called Yunagan.

2. Instead of going to that land, they went to a small island called Suluan, where
they anchored. People in canoes fled from them. This island was at about 9
and two-thirds degrees North latitude.

3. They then sailed west to an uninhabited island called “Gada” to get wood and
water. This island was likely Homonhon, at 10 degrees North latitude.

4. They sailed west to a large island named Seilani (Leyte), known for gold.

5. They sailed south along Seilani’s coast, then southwest to a small island
called “Mazava” (likely Limasawa), at a latitude of about 9 and two-thirds
degrees North.

6. People on Mazava were friendly. They planted a cross on a mountain and

were shown three islands west and southwest with gold.

7. They went north again to Seilani, followed the coast northwest, and saw three
small islands at about 10 degrees latitude.

8. They sailed west and anchored by three islets for the night. Then sailed
southwest about 12 leagues, to around 10 and one-third degrees latitude,
entering a channel between two islands “Matan” and “Subu.”

9. They reached the town of Subu, stayed, got supplies, and made peace with
the local king.

10. Subu town is in line with the islands of Suluan and Mazava (Limasawa). They
had to take a longer route between Mazava and Subu due to shallows.
Explanation:

- Francisco Albo's log-book talks about their journey in 1521.

- They saw land called Yunagan but didn't go there due to shallow waters.
- They visited Suluan, then an island named Gada (likely Homonhon) for
supplies.
- They reached Seilani (Leyte), known for gold.
- They sailed south to Mazava (likely Limasawa), planted a cross, saw nearby
islands.
- They later reached Subu, got supplies, and made peace.
- This evidence supports the idea that the first Mass might have been on
Limasawa rather than Butuan.

Pigafetta’s Evidence:
- Antonio Pigafetta wrote a detailed account of the Magellan expedition called
“Primo viaggio intomo al mondo” or “First Voyage Around the World.”
- Like Albo, Pigafetta was part of the expedition and personally witnessed the
important events, including the first Mass in the Philippines, which was then
called the Islands of Saint Lazarus by Magellan.
- Two good English translations of Pigafetta’s work are available, one by
Robertson from the Italian and another by Skelton from the French.
- Antonio Pigafetta's account is important, focusing on events from March 16,
1521, when they first saw the Philippine islands, to April 7, when they reached
Cebu.
- This covers about three weeks of their journey. The detailed section is in
Appendix B (see below), which matches chapters 16 to 20 in Skelton's
translation.
When looking at Pigafetta's account, we'll focus on five aspects:
(a) What Pigafetta said about the expedition's route from the Pacific Ocean to
Cebu.
(b) The significance of Pigafetta's map.
(c) The presence of two native kings in his account.
(d) The details of their seven days on the island of "Mazaua."
(e) An argument based on what might be missing from his account.

Pigafetta’s Route Details:

1. March 16, 1521: They saw a tall island named “Zamal” around 300 leagues
west of the Marianas.
2. March 17: They landed on another island to the right of Zamal, called
“Humunu” (Homonhon), to take care of the sick crew.
3. Same day, March 17: Magellan named the whole group of islands the “Islands
of Saint Lazarus” after a Bible story.
4. March 18: In the afternoon, they saw a boat with nine people. They swapped
gifts and the people promised to bring food in four days.
 5. Homonhon Island: They found two water springs and signs of gold, so
Magellan renamed it the “Watering Place of Good Omen.”
6. March 22: Natives returned with food supplies in two boats.
7. Eight Days on Homonhon: They stayed from March 17 to March 25.
8. March 25: They left Homonhon. It was a special day in the church calendar,
the feast of the Annunciation. Pigafetta had a near-drowning accident but saw it
as a blessing.
9. Route after Homonhon: They moved west-southwest between four islands:
Cenalo (Ceilon or Seilani, i.e., Leyte), Hiunanghan (Hinunangan, part of Leyte),
and Ibusson (east of Leyte’s southern tip).

Explanation:
- Pigafetta’s account describes the route they took after first sighting the
Philippine islands.
- They went from Zamal to Humonhon where they cared for the sick.
- Magellan named the islands “Saint Lazarus” on March 17.
- They met locals, got supplies, and stayed eight days on Homonhon.
- On March 25, they left Homonhon on a special church feast day.
- Their route continued southwest through islands like Leyte and others.

Sailing Route and Mazaua Island:

- It’s clear that when Pigafetta mentioned sailing “toward the west southwest,” he
was describing their movement past the islands.
- After leaving Homonhon, they went west toward Leyte, then followed the Leyte
coast south. They passed between Hibuson island and Hiunangan Bay, then
went south and turned west to “Mazaua.”

Thursday, March 28:

- On the morning of Holy Thursday, March 28, they anchored near an island
where they had seen a light the previous night.
- This island is located at about 9 and two-thirds degrees latitude, towards the
North, and at a longitude of about 162 degrees from the line of demarcation.
- It’s about 25 leagues (a league is an old measurement) from Homonhon.
- This island is called Mazaua.

Explanation:
- After Homonhon, they sailed west to Leyte, then followed the coast south
between Hibuson and Hiunangan Bay before turning west to Mazaua.
- On March 28, they anchored near an island called Mazaua, which is located at
around 9 and two-thirds degrees latitude, to the North of their position, and about
162 degrees longitude from a reference line.
- Mazaua is roughly 25 leagues away from Homonhon.
Days on Mazaua and Leaving:
11. They stayed on Mazaua Island for seven days. What they did during these days
will be explained in a section below called “Seven Days at Mazaua.”

12. On Thursday, April 4, they left Mazaua and headed towards Cebu. The king of
Mazaua guided them in his own boat. They passed by five “islands”: “Ceylon,
Bohol, Canighan, Baibai, and Gatighan.”

Details of the Islands:

- Pigafetta believed Ceylon and Baibai were separate islands, but they were
actually part of Leyte.
- “Canighan” (Canigao) is an island off the southwestern tip of Leyte.
- They sailed northwest from Mazaua through the Canigao Channel, with Bohol
on their left and Leyte and Canigao on their right.
- Then they sailed north along the Leyte coast, passing by Baibai, and reaching
“Gatighan.”
- Gatighan’s exact identity isn’t certain, but it was about twenty leagues from
Mazaua and fifteen leagues from Cebu.

Explanation:
- They spent seven days on Mazaua before leaving.
- On April 4, they left Mazaua with the king’s guidance.
- They passed by several islands including Ceylon (part of Leyte), Bohol,
Canigao, Baibai (part of Leyte), and Gatighan.
- Gatighan’s exact location isn’t completely clear, but it was a certain distance
from Mazaua and Cebu.

Continuing the Journey:

13. From Gatighan, they sailed west to three islands in the Camotes Group:
Poro, Pasihan, and Ponson (also known as Polo, Ticobon, and Pozon in
Pigafetta's account). They stopped here to let the king of Mazaua catch up, since
the Spanish ships were faster than his native boat, which impressed him.
14. They sailed southwest from the Camotes Islands towards "Zubu" (Cebu).
15. On Sunday, April 7, at noon, they entered the harbor of Cebu. The journey
from Mazaua to Cebu took three days, with a detour north to the Camotes
Islands.

Comparing Routes:
- Pigafetta's description of the route aligns closely with Albo's log-book.
- The southernmost point they reached before getting to Cebu was Mazaua,
located at about nine and two-thirds degrees North latitude.
The Question:
- The question arises: Could this "Mazaua" actually be Butuan or more
specifically, the "Masao" beach near Butuan?
- To answer this question, we need to look at Pigafetta's map and consider
additional evidence about the two kings.

Explanation:
- After Gatighan, they reached the Camotes Islands and then headed to Cebu.
- They reached Cebu on April 7, taking three days from Mazaua to Cebu.
- The route Pigafetta described matches closely with Albo's log-book.
- The question is whether Mazaua could be Butuan or the "Masao" beach, which
requires looking at Pigafetta's map and more evidence.

(b) The evidence of Pigafetta’s Maps

- Pigafetta's narrative has maps, although he wasn't an expert in map-making.
- These maps are not like navigation charts, but they help identify the islands he
talked about and show their relative positions and sizes.

First Map (BR 33):

- This map shows Irge (Samar), Suluan, Abarien, Hiunangan, and Homonhon
islands. Homonhon is also called "Aguada ly boni segnaly."

Second Map (BR 33):

- This double map shows Mindanao (Mamgdanao) and features Panguil Bay,
Cippit, Butuan, Calagan, and Benasan.

Third Map (BR 33):

- This map is important for our investigation. It shows Mazaua (Mazzana) with
relation to "Ceilon" (likely Leyte), "Baibai" (also Leyte), Bohol, Gatighan, and the
Camotes Group (called Polan, Pozon, and Ticobon).
-
Explanation:
- Pigafetta's maps aren't navigation charts but help understand island locations.
- The first map shows Samar, Suluan, Abarien, Hiunangan, and Homonhon.
- The second map displays Mindanao with places like Panguil Bay, Cippit,
Butuan, Calagan, and Benasan.
- The third map is relevant; it shows Mazaua in relation to Leyte, Bohol,
Gatighan, and Camotes Group.

Comparison of Maps:
 - These maps are included here. They are all drawn facing south, likely because
Pigafetta first encountered some of these islands while sailing south from Samar.

Inferences from Comparing Maps:

1. Mazaua's Location: Mazaua (Mazzana in the map) is a small island. It's off the
southwest tip of a bigger island called Ceilon (Southern Leyte). Mazaua is on the
east side of Bohol, near the passage between Bohol and the western coast of
Ceilon (Leyte).
2. Mazaua and Limasawa: Mazaua on Pigafetta's map is in a position similar to
where Limasawa island is actually located.
3. Mazaua and Butuan: Mazaua can't be the same as Butuan. Butuan is on a
larger island, which we now call Mindanao. The map also shows other places like
"Calagan," "Cippit," and "Mamgdanao" on the same island.

Explanation:
- The maps show the positions of different islands and their relationships.
- Comparing these maps, we can tell that Mazaua is likely Limasawa, and it's not
the same as Butuan, which is on a different, larger island.

C. Two Kings:
- There's strong evidence from history that two native kings or rajahs were at
Mazaua during Magellan's visit.
- One was the "king" of Mazaua who later helped guide the expedition to Cebu.
- The other was related to him, possibly a brother, and was the king of Butuan.

Description of the King of Butuan:

- Pigafetta mentions that the king of Butuan was quite impressive in appearance,
perhaps the most handsome he'd seen in the area.

Territory and Meeting Place:

- The king of Butuan's territory included Butuan and Calagan.
- When these kings wanted to meet, they would both go to an island to hunt
together.
- The island they would meet on was Mazaua, where they stayed for seven days.
- This confirms that Mazaua couldn't have been Butuan, as they clearly visited
Mazaua from Butuan.

Explanation:
- There were two kings present during Magellan's visit: one from Mazaua and the
other from Butuan.
- The king of Butuan was impressive and his territory included Butuan and
Calagan.
 - Both kings would meet on the island of Mazaua to hunt together, staying there
for seven days.
- This makes it clear that Mazaua couldn't have been Butuan.
D. Seven Days at Mazaua:
- The Magellan expedition stayed on the island of "Mazaua" for a whole week.
According to Pigafetta and Albo, Mazaua's latitude was around nine and two-
thirds degrees North.

ACTIVITIES DURING THE SEVEN DAYS:

Here's a summary of what they did during those seven days:
Day 1 - Thursday, March 28:
- In the morning, they anchored near an island where they saw a light the
previous night.
- Some natives arrived in a small boat. Magellan gave them trinkets as gifts.
- Later, two larger boats came with the native king sitting under an awning.
- Some natives went on the Spanish ship while the king stayed in his boat.
- They exchanged gifts. In the afternoon, Spanish ships moved closer to the
king's village.
- This day was Holy Thursday, a significant day in Holy Week.

Day 2 - Friday, March 29:

- On Holy Friday, Magellan sent his slave interpreter in a small boat to ask the
king for food supplies.
- The king came in a boat with a few men, and they embraced each other this
time.
- More gift exchanges took place.
- The king and his men took two members of the expedition as guests for the
night, including Pigafetta.

Explanation:
- The expedition spent a week on Mazaua Island.
- During the first two days, they interacted with the native king, exchanged gifts,
and even embraced.
- The activities show friendly interactions between the expedition and the locals.

Day 3 - Saturday, March 30:

- Pigafetta and his friend spent the previous night feasting and drinking with the
native king and his son.
- Pigafetta was unhappy that they had to eat meat on Good Friday.
 - The next morning (Saturday), Pigafetta and his friend left their hosts and went
back to the ships.

Day 4 - Sunday, March 31:

- Early on Easter Sunday, Magellan sent a priest and some men ashore to
prepare for Mass.
- Later in the morning, Magellan and around fifty men went to the island. They
celebrated Mass and venerated a cross.
- Afterward, they returned to the ship for lunch, but in the afternoon, they went
back ashore.
- They planted a cross on the highest hill. Both the king of Mazaua and the king
of Butuan were present.

Day 5 - Sunday, March 31:

- While on the highest hill in the afternoon, Magellan asked the kings where he
could find more food.
- The kings mentioned three ports: Ceylon, Zubu, and Calagan. Zubu had the
most trade.
- Magellan decided to go to Zubu and wanted to leave the next morning. He
asked for a guide.
- Initially, the kings said the pilots could guide them, but later the king of Mazaua
changed his mind. He offered to guide them but needed to finish harvesting first.

Day 6 - Monday, April 1:

- Magellan sent men to help with the harvest, but no work was done because the
kings were recovering from drinking the night before.

Days 7 and 8 - Tuesday, April 2, and Wednesday, April 3:

- Work on the harvest continued during these two days.

Day 9 - Thursday, April 4:

- They left Mazaua for Cebu. This marks the end of their stay, totaling seven days
on the island.
- The Mass on Easter Sunday was held on Mazaua and not in Butuan.

Explanation:
- On the fifth day, Magellan discussed where to find more food with the kings and
decided to go to Zubu.
- On the sixth day, no harvest work happened because the kings were recovering
from drinking.
- For the following two days (seventh and eighth), they continued working on the
harvest.
 - On the ninth day, they left Mazaua for Cebu. This marked the end of their
seven-day stay on the island. The Easter Sunday Mass was held on Mazaua, not
in Butuan.

E. Argument from Omission:

- If "Mazaua" were in the area of Butuan or its vicinity, there's a notable omission
in Pigafetta's account.
- Butuan is located on the Agusan River, and the beach called Masao is in the
delta of that river.
- However, in Pigafetta's account of their time at "Mazaua," there is no mention of
a river.
- The absence of any reference to the river in Pigafetta's account is a significant
detail.
- If they were indeed in the delta area, one would expect some mention of the
river or the riverine environment.
- Pigafetta describes a later journey upriver to see the queen in Mindanao after
Magellan's death, indicating he would have mentioned the river if they were in
that type of environment.
- The fact that there's no mention of the river in Pigafetta's account suggests that
Mazaua was an island surrounded by the sea, not a river delta like the area
around Butuan.

3. Summary of the Evidence of Albo and Pigafetta:

- Combining the evidence from Albo's log-book and Pigafetta's account, several
points are established.

1. The Magellan expedition entered Philippine waters south of Samar and

anchored at Homonhon for a week. They then sailed towards Leyte, then
southwards along its coast, eventually anchoring at Mazaua.
2. Mazaua's position and latitude correspond to that of the island of Limasawa,
with its southern tip at approximately 9° 54' N.
3. From Mazaua, they sailed northwest through the Canigao channel between
Bohol and Leyte, then northward along Leyte's coast, westward to the Camotes
Group, and southwest to Cebu.
4. There is no evidence indicating that the expedition visited Butuan or any other
point on the Mindanao coast during this journey. Survivors of the expedition did
visit Mindanao after Magellan's death.

This combined evidence points to Mazaua being the island that corresponds
geographically to Limasawa, and it supports the conclusion that Butuan was not
part of the expedition's route during this period.

The Legazpi expedition, which arrived in the Philippines in 1565, provides

additional evidence that supports the location of Magellan's Mazaua and the
subsequent events.
 During the Legazpi expedition, they sought to visit Mazaua, which they had heard
about. They inquired about Mazaua from natives of Cabalian, a village at the
southeastern end of Leyte. With the guidance of these natives, the Legazpi ships
sailed around the island of Panaon, which is separated from Leyte by a narrow
strait. They then anchored off the location they believed to be Mazaua. However,
upon arrival, they encountered hostile inhabitants. This hostility might have been
a result of Portuguese actions that occurred between Magellan's expedition and
Legazpi's arrival, spanning a four-decade interval.

This account aligns with the historical information, indicating that Magellan's
Mazaua was an actual location that had inhabitants. The hostility encountered by
the Legazpi expedition further supports the idea that the Mazaua they visited was
a distinct island, as opposed to a river delta like Butuan.

D. The Geography of "Mazaua":

The reason Magellan chose to anchor at "Mazaua," which is believed to be

Limasawa, can be explained by geography. As the expedition sailed southward
along the eastern coast of Leyte with Hibuson Island to their left, they reached
the southern tip of what appeared to be part of Leyte but was actually a separate
island called Panaon. This point marked the change in wind direction – the strong
east wind known as "Dumagsa." In March and April, this east wind is dominant in
this region.

Sailing with this wind, Magellan's ships naturally moved westward or

southwestward, leading them towards the island of Limasawa. Having observed
a light on the island one night, they decided to anchor there the following day.
This decision was likely influenced by the wind patterns and the practicality of
their navigation in that specific weather condition.

E. Why the Butuan Tradition Emerged:

The persistence of the three-century tradition favoring Butuan can be explained
by several factors, even though the tradition itself is based on misconceptions
and second-hand information.
1. Chain of Repetition:The tradition likely began due to a chain of repetition,
where one author inaccurately presented the information, which was then copied
by subsequent authors. This could easily perpetuate a mistaken notion for
centuries.
2. Misinterpretation of Contacts: Magellan and his crew interacted with the rajah
of Butuan during their stay at Mazaua. Pigafetta's account, which mentioned this,
could have been misunderstood by later historians to imply that the interaction
occurred at Butuan itself, rather than at Mazaua.

3. Partial Validity of the Tradition: While the Butuan tradition is incorrect regarding
the site of the first Mass, it is not entirely without validity. Magellan's expedition,
after his death, did visit various places in Mindanao, possibly including Butuan.
This historical connection, coupled with the misinterpretations, could have
contributed to the persistence of the tradition.
 4. Later Visits to Butuan: Over the years, subsequent explorers and expeditions
did visit Butuan. Legazpi's expedition, which occurred forty years after Magellan's
journey, visited Butuan. This real historical connection with Butuan could have
added to the belief that Magellan's first Mass occurred there.
In summary, the emergence and persistence of the Butuan tradition can be
attributed to a combination of misinformation, misinterpretation of historical
contacts, partial validity, and subsequent visits to Butuan by later expeditions.

F. The Importance of Butuan

Indeed, the question of whether the first Mass was celebrated at Butuan or
Limasawa is a matter of historical accuracy, and it doesn't diminish the cultural or
historical significance of Butuan. Butuan holds immense archaeological
importance, as evidenced by the artifacts displayed in its museum, many of
which were excavated from the Agusan River delta. This region has played a
significant role in the history of the Philippines.

Additionally, Butuan stands out as the first location in Mindanao where a

Christian mission was established. Both the Jesuits and later the Augustinian
Recollects contributed to the development of Christianity in the area. This
historical aspect further underscores Butuan's relevance in the Philippines'
history.
Therefore, regardless of the outcome of the debate over the first Mass, Butuan
remains an integral part of Philippine culture and history, deserving recognition
for its unique contributions and significance.

The Butuan Monument

 It seems that De Veyra's opinion about the Butuan monument being the site of
the first Mass was based on a manuscript he had seen among Pardo de Tavera's
papers titled "Notas para a cartografia de Filipinas" (Notes for a Philippine
cartography). However, Opiana and the National Historical Committee were not
entirely convinced by this opinion and decided on a compromise.

 On December 11, 1953, the National Historical Committee passed a resolution to

comply with the petition to rehabilitate and re-erect the Butuan monument.
However, they also stipulated that the marble slab with the inscription claiming it
as the site of the first Mass should be removed for revision purposes.

 This decision appears to reflect the committee's cautious approach in addressing

the historical claims associated with the Butuan monument. It's interesting to note
the deliberation and consideration that went into making decisions about
historical sites and markers.