Communion - Central District

Carson You

Honors 391 B

Professor Tim Billo

12 March 2023
Communion, an exceptional restaurant situated in the Central District of Seattle, occupies a
historically significant site, the Liberty Bank Building. The Liberty Bank Building is a
noteworthy community landmark as it served as the first black-owned bank in the region. The
bank was established in response to the discriminatory redlining practices that deprived non-
white citizens of access to loans. The Central District served as a haven for many black
homebuyers in the past who relied on Liberty Bank for financial support. While redlining is no
longer as prevalent, the support of various organizations, such as the Africatown-Central District
Preservation and Development Association, has paved the way for Communion to take up
residence in one of many spots once occupied by Liberty Bank. The redeveloped building now
stands as a symbol of hope and advancement for the African American community in Seattle.
The Liberty Bank Building now serves as a dual-purpose facility, offering affordable housing
and a community center, while preserving the building's rich history. Additionally, it provides a
cost-effective space for local black-owned businesses to operate, further promoting economic
empowerment and social progress.
Communion restaurant is renowned for its delectable innovative soul food, its fusion of African
American and Asian cuisine, and its welcoming ambiance. The establishment also boasts a rich
history, intricately interwoven with the African American and minority communities and
Seattle's gentrification story. Communion restaurant was established in 2020 by Chef Kristi
Brown and her business partner, Damon Bomar. The concept for the restaurant originated from
their aspiration to develop a place that honors the legacy and culture of soul food while offering
an inclusive and inviting atmosphere for all. The restaurant's name, Communion, aligns with this
philosophy, intending to unite individuals in a communal setting where they can share a meal,
exchange thoughts, and enjoy one another's company. According to Chef Kristi, the goal of
Communion is to create an environment where customers can experience the warmth and
welcoming spirit of soul food while being immersed in the area's rich history and culture.

“Communion is a place where you feel seen. A place that feels like comfort, rest, relief, and
peace. Our mission is to provide the food, the familiarity, and the intimacy that make you feel at
home.”

Chef Kristi Brown, Head Chef of Communion, boasts an impressive culinary background that
showcases her commitment to culinary activism. She gained experience working at various
establishments such as Plenty Cafe and Nordstrom Catering, which provided her with a strong
foundation for future development. Brown held executive positions as Head Chef at Zinnia
Restaurant and as opening Kitchen Manager at Café Starbucks. Her extensive training and
experience are evident in the dishes she creates at Communion. Brown also founded That Brown
Girl Cooks! (TBGC), a full-service catering company that operated for ten years, offering
quality, potent flavors, and balanced, healthful eating.

Damon Bomar, Manager of Communion, is Brown's son. Bomar's passion for the hospitality
sector was influenced by the Harlem Renaissance and the essential role restaurants play in
providing a safe gathering space for the African American community. He started his journey in
the culinary industry as a sweet potato peeler, developing an entrepreneurial drive with his
mother's help. After studying hospitality management and working in several other kitchens, he
returned to work at Communion alongside his mother, bringing a strong work ethic and
dedication to the company.
The history of Central District Seattle is closely tied to the African American community. In the
early 20th century, the neighborhood was one of the few places where black people could live
and work without facing discrimination. However, as the city grew and expanded, the Central
District became a target for gentrification, displacing many of the original residents and
businesses. Communion is part of a new wave of businesses that seek to honor the African
American community's history and culture while providing a space for the future. One way that
Communion honors the community's history is through its ties to soul food. Soul food serves as a
means of celebrating and honoring ancestral heritage and preserving family recipes and
traditions. The presence of a soul food restaurant such as Communion can represent a way of
preserving this cultural heritage and providing a sense of belonging for locals seeking a
connection to their roots. Furthermore, in the face of gentrification and cultural erasure, a soul
food restaurant like Communion can serve as a means of preserving the history and traditions of
the African American community and keeping it vibrant through a space where individuals can
gather and enjoy this unique culinary tradition.
To do this, Brown has developed an innovative menu of various soul food dishes that is both
familiar and fresh. With this in mind, I was excited to have the opportunity to experience
Communion firsthand. Upon entering the restaurant, I was promptly greeted and escorted to a
table. The staff directed me to scan a QR code to access the menu, and after perusing the options,
I was ready to place my order. The waiter returned and provided a thorough description of the
dishes I had inquired about. The first dish, the Hood Sushi Bowl, was described as a fusion of
Asian and African American cuisine, featuring traditional Asian steamed rice, seaweed, Japanese
algae, and fish eggs, complemented by a more African-American touch of fried catfish, pickled
veggies, and non-Asian sauces such as Creole remoulade. My sister requested the classic African
American fried dish, Unc’s Fried Chicken Wings. I opted for the Jambalaya, a Seattle Soul-style
New Orleans rice dish, consisting of basmati rice, a tomato base, Southern Mirepox/Holy
Trinity, shrimp, clams (with shells preferred by soul chefs), and Oh Boy Oberto hot links (spicy
sausages). All of the dishes provided a delectable and distinctive culinary experience, distinct
from my Asian cultural background. The restaurant itself exuded a warm and welcoming
ambiance, amplified by the friendly and congenial staff. The team operated as a tight-knit
community, which was evident from their interpersonal interactions. Adorning one of the walls
was a collection of photographs that my waiter explained showcased the rich history of the
Liberty Bank Building and its community. The wooden interior design, the photographs, the
food, and the atmosphere all contributed to an authentic African American cultural experience
that was enlightening to partake in.
Communion's commitment to the community extends beyond its food. The restaurant is involved
in various local initiatives, such as the Urban League of Metropolitan Seattle, which aims to
provide resources and opportunities to underserved communities. Brown and Bomar also provide
mentorship and training to aspiring chefs, many of whom come from minority backgrounds and
may face barriers to entry into the culinary industry. Communion's location in the Central
District also highlights the impact of gentrification on the neighborhood. The area has undergone
significant changes in recent years, with new developments, businesses, and residents moving in.
While gentrification can bring new opportunities and investment to a community, it can also
displace long-time residents and businesses and erase the neighborhood's history and culture.
Communion's presence in the Central District is a reminder that the community's story is still
being written and that new businesses can play a role in preserving its legacy.
All in all, Communion Restaurant is not just a restaurant, but a testament to the power of
community, perseverance, and dedication. Through the combined efforts of Chef Kristi Brown
and Damon Bomar, Communion Restaurant has become a beloved staple in Seattle's Central
District, offering not only delicious food but a space for community members to come together
and connect. The restaurant's ties to the African American and minority communities, its
commitment to using local and sustainable ingredients, and its dedication to providing a
welcoming atmosphere make it a truly unique and special place. As the community and Seattle
continue to evolve, Communion Restaurant serves as a reminder of the importance of preserving
traditions and creating spaces that honor and celebrate them.
 Work Cited

Brown, K. (n.d.). Our story - communion R&B Seattle. Communion Restaurant & Bar.
Retrieved March 8, 2023, from https://www.communionseattle.com/our-story

Burnstead, B. (2021, April 7). 'I want our guests to Feel love': Communion restaurant is
dedicated to Seattle Soul. Seattle Refined. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from
https://seattlerefined.com/eat-drink/communion-restaurant-bar-central-district-seattle

Feast, J. (2022, September 8). Seattle's Best Restaurants Guide 2022 - central district. Seattle’s
Best Restaurants Guide 2022 — Central District. Retrieved March 8, 2023, from
https://jezebelsfeast.com/seattles-best-restaurants-guide-2022-central-district/

Home. Liberty Bank Building. (2020, July 21). Retrieved March 10, 2023, from
https://libertybankbuilding.org/

Hill, M. (2020, December 4). Long-awaited Communion brings Seattle Soul Food to the Central
District. Long-Awaited Communion Brings Seattle Soul Food to the Central District. Retrieved
March 8, 2023, from https://seattle.eater.com/2020/12/4/22081337/communion-kristi-brown-
restaurant-opening-central-district

Liberty Bank. Liberty Bank Building. (2020, July 21). Retrieved March 10, 2023, from
https://libertybankbuilding.org/liberty-bank/

Somers, J. (2022, March 25). Central District welcomes the grand opening of Communion
Restaurant & Bar. The Seattle Collegian. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from
https://seattlecollegian.com/central-district-welcomes-the-grand-opening-of-communion-
restaurant-bar/