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Silicones&Sulfates - Smart Usage Manual - (2023)
Silicones&Sulfates - Smart Usage Manual - (2023)
SULPHATES
Smart Usage Manual
By Hairqare
Contents
05
What are silicones?
12
How to Use Silicones
to Your Advantage
19
What Are Sulphates?
© 2023 Hairqare
Welcome to the
Silicones & Sulfates
Smart Usage Manual
Silicones and sulfates have been demonized heavily over the
past few decades for their drying effects on the hair. However,
the negative effects of these ingredients often have little to do
with the ingredient itself, and more to do with how we misuse
them.
© 2023 Hairqare
What are
silicones?
...and why Silicones are a group
do we use
of inorganic materials
consisting of atoms of
them?
silicon (a mineral sand
element) and oxygen. Most
silicones can be generally
recognized by names ending
in “-cone” or “-oxane.”
Silicones have an
exceptional breadth of
chemical and physical
properties. They are
highly resistant to high
and low temperatures,
resist degradation by UV
rays, repel water, and
exhibit a range of other
characteristics. Objects
made with silicones or
that have silicones applied
to them take on these
important properties.
© 2023 Hairqare
6
Advantages of
Silicones in
Haircare
Coats and lubricates the hair shaft
making hair easier to comb and
detangle
7
Disadvantages
of Silicones:
The downside to using silicones is their
complicated and extensive nature. They
come in many forms with many different
properties. It's easy to misuse them and this
results in adverse effects such as:
Build-up of non-soluble
silicones resulting in
dryness and greasiness
© 2023 Hairqare
8
Is Given the downsides of silicones and their
potential for misuse, we've seen the rise of
9
Water
soluble vs
non-soluble
Silicones used in haircare have a special property
called solubility. Silicones that are water-soluble will
dissolve and rinse away with water. These silicones
are easy to use, easy to wash out and are a great
way to condition your hair between washes.
© 2023 Hairqare
10
Build
There's another property that haircare
enthusiasts need to be aware of in order
up
to effectively use silicones: build up! This
is the most common drawback and the
or no
strongest case against using silicones in
the first place.
up
have gained over the past few decades,
we often miss out on hearing a very
useful truth about them. Some types
of silicones have the ability to repel
any material that is applied over it.
This means that if you were to apply
silicones to your hair, the previous layer
will repel any additional layers, making it
impossible to build up.
11
How to Use
Silicones
to Your
Advantage
© 2023 Hairqare
Leveraging
Silicones
for Better To achieve your absolute best
hair and gain full control
13
No-Go
Silicones
These silicones are the ones that gave
all silicones their bad reputation. Their
downsides outweigh their upsides and
must be avoided completely.
© 2023 Hairqare
14
Behenoxy dimethicone
Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone
Cetearyl methicone
Cetyl dimethicone
Dimethiconol hydroxystearate
Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate
Propyl Dimethicone
Stearoxy dimethicone
Stearyl dimethicone
Stearyl methicone
Trimethylsiylamodimethicone
No-Go Silicones
Aminopropyl Dimethicone
(only in the presence of a cationic ingredient)
Aminopropyltriethoxysilane
(only in the presence of a cationic ingredient)
15
Airy
Silicones
These silicones are completely
harmless to your hair. They will
completely evaporate from your
hair after 10 minutes to a few
hours after application. You don't
have to worry about build up or
moisture loss. They’re mostly used
as delivery systems for other
ingredients, as they distribute
into a thin, uniform film and
help other ingredients spread
nice and evenly onto the strand.
Unlike drying alcohols which also
evaporate, these Airy Silicones
won’t zap off moisture from your
hair. You don’t have much to
worry about when using these
silicones.
Cyclomethicone
Cyclo-....-siloxane ingredients
Decamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane
Hexamethyldisiloxane
Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
© 2023 Hairqare
16
Easy to Remove
Silicones
These silicones don’t evaporate, so they are useful as
conditioning agents to get smoother and softer hair
with less frizz. They also protect hair from UV radiation,
heat styling, and humidity and spread out evenly.
They wash out with sulfate-free shampoos and can
even rinse out with conditioner or oils. However, there
are a few risks to using Friendly Silicones. They have
the potential to block out moisture from the hair if you
don't wash your hair often. So if you use these silicones,
be sure to wash your hair within 4 days.
Phenyltrimethicone
Silica
Silicone resin
Siloxysilicates
(i.e. ingredients that end with the word Siloxysilicate)
Silsequioxanes
Trisiloxane
17
Resilient These silicones provide all of the excellent protective
properties we've mentioned earlier, plus they don't
or "chloride" or as Aminopropyltriethoxysilane
polyquaternium (unless in the presence of a cationic ingredient then No-Go
ingredients. Silicone)
Amodimethicone
Anything ending in -dimethylsiloxane
(only in the presence of a cationic ingredient)
Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer
© 2023 Hairqare
18
What Are
Sulphates?
Sulfates are Sulfates are a class of organic
used to break
compounds that are formally
esters derived from alcohols
tension of water
esters are used in detergents,
and commonly used in liquid
lathering effect
body wash to dish soap.
© 2023 Hairqare
20
Pros and cons
Sulfates aren’t inherently terrible, but they do come with
their upsides and downsides. Here are the pros and
cons at a glance so you can make an informed decision
for yourself.
thorough clean
21
How
to use High Strength Sulphates
Moderate Sulphates
Milder compared to the same dosage of
high strength sulfates and less irritating
Lower efficacy, might require multiple
applications to remove product residue
© 2023 Hairqare
22
Apply the following
principles when
using sulphates:
1. Use them once or twice a month to
reset your hair and scalp.
23
Is Sulphate-free a
Good or Bad thing?
© 2023 Hairqare
24
How to use
Sulphate-free
Surfactants
A harsh shampoo is not
as much defined by its
individual ingredient but by
its concentration. A shampoo
that contains 99% of a “mild”
detergent is still going to be
harsh. The dosage is what
makes the poison and that’s
one of the reasons why finding
the right shampoo is so
difficult. A more reliable way
is to understand the various
sulfates and surfactants and
how to use them effectively.
25
High Strength Sulfate-Free
Surfactants
High efficacy
Effective alternative for people allergic
to sulphates
Can be irritating
Mild compared to the same dosage of a harsh detergent and less irritating
Lower efficacy and might require multiple applications to remove product residue
Best used to remove Friendly Silicones and as your regularly mild shampoo.
© 2023 Hairqare
26
Additional notes...
27
Good work,
challenger.
© 2023 Hairqare