Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

FACIAL MAKEUP
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Copyright © 2004
by Delmar Learning, a division of Thomson Learning,Inc.
 Makeup Artistry
Cosmetic Sales Rep
Sell cosmetic products to consumers and corporations

Newspaper/Magazine Beauty Columnist

Write articles about cosmetics

International Artistic Team

Developing New Seasonal Colors for Cosmetic Companies

Television Station/Production Company Makeup Artist

Help convey the personality of the character

Makeup artists may be asked to create different appearances for a character, such
as an injury or age difference…

Makeup artists often analyze characters, do research, and confer with the director
and the actors to create just the right look for a specific character.

Makeup artists may have to work with prosthetics to achieve a particular look. 20
FOUNDATIONS
 Even skin tone
 Conceal minor
imperfections
 Protect skin from climate
and dirt
 Come in
 cream form
 liquid form
 powder form
Figure 20-3
 Cream-to-powder form

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 USING FOUNDATION
 Skin tone determines the selection of foundation color.

 Warm tones are generally yellow, orange, or red-orange.

 Cool tones are generally blue, blue-green (olive), or blue-

red (pink).

 Neutral skin has equal amounts of warm and cool tones.

 Match foundation as closely as possible to natural skin

tone. Color should disappear on the skin.
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CONCEALERS
 Use concealers to cover blemishes and
discolorations. They are available in pots, pencils,
wands, and tubes or sticks.

 Remove concealers from container with a spatula

and apply with a concealer brush or sponge.
Match color to skin as closely as possible.

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FACE POWDERS
 Add a matte or dull finish

 Conceal blemishes and

discolorations

 Tone down excessive color and

shine

 Come in variety of tints, weights

 Light to medium weight good for Figure 20-4

dry to normal skin

 Heavy weight good for oily skin 20

CHEEK COLOR
 Also called blush or rouge

 Creates more attractive facial

contour
 Comes in
 liquid format

 cream or gel format

 dry (pressed) format

Figure 20-5
 loose powder format

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RULES FOR APPLICATION
OF CHEEK COLOR
 Apply cheek color where natural color would
normally appear on cheeks.

 Keep color above the horizontal line at the tip of the

nose.

 Do not extend color above the outer corner of the eye.

 Do not apply color in a bright, round circle.

 Blend color so that it fades softly into the foundation.

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LIP COLOR  Also called lipstick or gloss

 Comes in variety of colors

with optional sunscreen and
moisturizers

 Lip liner
 used to outline the lips.

 coordinate liner with lip

Figure 20-6 color.

 sharpen liners with every

use.
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EYE SHADOW
 Applied on eyelids

 Comes in variety of
colors and finishes

 Forms
 Stick
 Cream
 Pressed Figure 20-7
 Dry powder

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USING EYE SHADOW
 It makes the eyes appear bright and expressive.

 Darker color makes the natural color of the iris appear lighter; just the
opposite with lighter shadow.

 Color should enhance the client’s eyes.

 Highlight color is lighter than skin tone. Use on a specific area such
as the brow bone.

 Base color is usually a medium tone. Use to even skin tone around
eyes. Apply all over the lid before other colors.

 Contour color is a darker tone. Apply to minimize a certain area, to

create contour, or to define the eyelash line.

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EYELINER  Outlines the eye
 Available in pencil,
liquid, pressed, or felt tip
pen form
 Makes the eyes appear
larger and lashes fuller
 Application
 Be cautious when
applying.
Figure 20-8  Use steady hand.
 Sharpen the liner and
sanitize sharpener before
each use.
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CAUTION
 According to the American Medical Association,
eye pencils should not be used to color the inner
rim of the eyes.

 The danger is infection of the tear duct causing

tearing, blurring of vision, and permanent
pigmentation of the mucous membrane lining the
inside of the eye.

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EYEBROW COLOR
 Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color
and shape to the eyebrows.

 They can darken the eyebrow, fill in sparse areas,

or correct misshapen brows.

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MASCARA
 Used to darken, define, and
thicken eyelashes

 Makes lashes appear thicker

and longer

 Application

 Lashes should be darker

than the eyebrows.
Figure 20-9
 Dispose of wand.

 Never double-dip.
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MAKEUP BRUSHES
 Come in a variety of
shapes and sizes

 Are made of synthetic or

animal hair

 Have wooden or metal

handles

Figure 20-10
 Clean up with
commercial sanitizer or
mild shampoo for
cleaning 20
MAKEUP COLOR THEORY
PRIMARY
COLORS

 Red
 Yellow
 Blue
Figure 20-11

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SECONDARY COLORS
Mix equal parts of two
primary colors to
obtain:
 Orange (yellow + red)

 Violet (red + blue)

 Green (yellow + blue)

Figure 20-12
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TERTIARY COLORS
Mix equal parts of a
secondary color and its
neighboring primary color:

 Yellow-Orange
 Yellow-Green
 Blue-Green
 Blue-Violet
 Red-Violet
 Red-Orange
Figure 20-13

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COMPLEMENTARY COLORS
 Primary and secondary
colors directly opposite
each other on the color
wheel are
complementary.

 When mixed, they

cancel each other out to
create a neutral brown or
gray color.
Figure 20-14
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WARM AND COOL COLORS
 Warm colors range from
yellow and gold through
oranges, red-oranges,
most reds, and some
yellow-greens.

 Cool colors are

dominated by the blues,
greens, violets, and blue- Figure 20-15
reds.

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SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR
 Consider skin, eye, and hair color.
 Decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark.
 Light skin color—Use light colors for a natural look
and dark colors for a dramatic look.
 Medium skin color—Medium tones will create more
of a understated look. Light or dark tones will
provide more contrast and appear bolder.
 Dark skin color—Dark colors will be subtle; medium
or light will be striking and vivid.

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 COLOR FOR EYES
 Neutrals are always the safest choice
 Complementary colors are determined thus:
 Blue eyes—Orange: Choices include gold, warm
orange-browns like peach and copper, red-browns
like mauve and plum, and neutrals like taupe or
camel.
 Green eyes—Red: Choices include brown-based reds,
red-orange, red-violet, and violet; coppers, rusts,
pinks, plums, mauve, and purples.
 Brown eyes—neutral and can wear any contrasting
colors such as greens, blues, grays, and silvers.
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CHEEK AND LIP COLOR
Coordinate in the same color family as the eye
makeup.

HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR

Hair color needs to be taken into account when
determining eye makeup color.

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COLOR SELETION STEPS
• Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark.
• Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, etc.
• Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral.
• Determine complementary colors.
• Determine hair color: warm or cool.
• Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary colors.
• Coordinate cheek and lip colors within same color family:
warm, cool, or neutral.
• Apply makeup.

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 CLIENT CONSULTATION
 Keep the area clean.

 Keep a portfolio of your work.

 Ensure good lighting for everything.

 Gather information and record on

consultation card.
 Skin condition
 Makeup worn daily
 Special occasion makeup
 Time spent on makeup
 Color likes and dislikes Figure 20-17
 Any makeup areas client is having
trouble with 20
SPECIAL OCCASION
MAKEUP
 Choose striking contour eyes.

 Choose dramatic smoky eyes.

 Add darker, lighter, or shimmery color to the cheeks.

 Apply liner color to the lips; fill in with pencil and blot.

 Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or

applicator.
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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
 Wash your hands before and after every application.

 Properly drape client.

 Protect client from direct skin or hair contact with chair.

 Keep your fingernails smooth.

 Use only sanitized brushes and implements.

 Use a shaker-type container for loose powder.

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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
 Pour all lotions from bottle containers.
 Use clean spatula to remove creams from jars.
 Never apply lip color directly from container to the client’s
lips.

 Use antiseptic on tweezed areas of the eyebrow to avoid

infection.

 Discard all disposable items.

 Keep workstation sanitary, neat, and well organized.

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 Makeup and the Movies
 may need to be adept in creating
sophisticated, high-fashion looks
 need to rely on design, sculpting and
creativity to alter an actor's looks by
showing age, injury or characteristics of an
alien or cartoon creature

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Film Technology and Makeup
 make-up artists have had to combine their
art with film-making technology
 Actors in silent films, for example, had heavy
yellow make-up to compensate for
orthochromatic film that was insensitive to
the red end of the light spectrum

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Advanced Technology and Makeup
 makeup techniques and computer-
generated images come together to create
visions
 Lord Voldemort's snake-like face in "Harry
Potter and the Goblet of Fire" (2005). For that
look, make-up was applied to actor Ralph
Fiennes' face in the usual way, but computer
wizardry flattened his face and altered his
nose

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