Well motor is in.

A few things to remember that weren't in the swap notes I seen around
online so I'll add that if it helps anyone searching in future.

Far as installing engine, I left the transmission in place. Never pulled the crossmember or
driveshaft. I would advise cutting the collectors and cats off first for room. I didn't do that
and it bit me several times going back in. Both engines will fit out the engine bay with the
hood on, intake removed, radiator removed but must be level to clear the cowl and the
harmonic balancer barely clears the condenser. I left the power steering and a/c systems
intact just unbolted the compressor and pump and let them fall down. Same with the
starter. One of the A/C comp bolts can only be accessed once the engine is up about three
inches off the mount. The Ford guy in design that thought that idea up needs a pop in the
jaw on that one. Top two trans bell bolts are only accessible from the top with the intake
removed.

Items that must be changed/used from donor truck;

The dipstick tube for the transmission is different (to clear the taller set exhaust manifolds)
so the 5.4 one must be used.
The 5.4 cruise control/accelerator cables bracket must be the 5.4 one.
Used a used 5.4 E250 torque converter I had from a van motor swap ways back, fit great.
The exhaust collectors, cat converters and y pipe assembly from the 5.4 4x4 truck
surprisingly bolts right into the 2wd truck, save for the stud on the crossmember by the rear
of the tranny. it is one hole off but my grinder and a bolt/nut will correct that. I cut my y
pipe in three places since I wasn't in the mood to pull the tranny crossmember from either
truck (and didn't lol). So I will just weld those back together and add a short extension to
the pipe leading to the 4.6 muffler and all will be well. No exhaust shop needed.
For clearance purpose, I made the mistake of chopping off the excess studs at the rear of
the passenger head. Didn't realize till after those are there to hold a bracket that support
the wiring harness around the curve back there. The harness sits close to the head but I
wrapped with some header fiberglass tape to protect it so that oughta work. But FYI don't
cut those off like I did. Aside from that, I've encountered no other mechanical interference.

The 5.4 complete engine harness plugged into the 4.6 bulkhead by the battery tray. It got
cold again so it'll be a few days before I can swap the PCM, cluster and PATS crap from the
4x4 to see if all that works and that is the money shot I'm still waiting for. If the truck runs
on the 5.4 electronics, PCM and cluster but on the 4.6 dash, body and trans harness, then
my question will finally be answered. Once this hodge podge is complete I'll post the update
again.

Originally Posted by JMC

Notes for 4.6 to 5.4 swap Part 1 Revised 28 January 2011
Application: These notes cover the F-150 from 1997 to 2004 Heritage model years.

Cylinder Heads: The following info applies to the F-150 and not any other vehicle engine.
4.6 Engine: The 4.6 engine had Non Pi Heads from 1997 to 2000. The Pi heads were
introduced to this engine for the 2001 model year.
5.4 Engine: The 5.4 engine had Non Pi Heads from 1997 to 1998. The Pi heads were
introduced to this engine for the 1999 model year.

Exhaust: The collectors on the exhaust manifolds are set at different angles and locations.
The 4.6 exhaust might not bolt up to 5.4 manifold. You may need to have a muffler shop
modify your 4.6 exhaust to match up.

Ignition: All 5.4 engines use Cop ignition. . 2000 and later 4.6 use COP ignition. 1997-99
4.6 engines use coil packs. It is easier to wire your 5.4 using the harness from the 4.6 and
use the 4.6 ignition coil packs if applicable. If you use the 4.6 Coil pack ignition you will
have to fab a bracket for the driver side coil pack.

Engine harness: To use a 4.6 PCM to run a 5.4 engine: The IAC harness must be
relocated to the rear of the throttle body elbow. The oil sender wire on the 4.6 may be too
short so measure or test fit the harness to see if it must be extended. All 97-00 and some
2001 4.6 engines use some sort of intake manifold runner control valve. Remove it from the
4.6 and plug it into the 4.6 harness and bolt it to the engine some where out of the way.
Note; you can get a tune to remove its function and eliminate it all together.
All 97-98 4.6 engines use an Engine Coolant Temp sensor (ECT) and an Engine Coolant
Temp sender. By the 99 Model year the ECT was dropped in both the 4.6 and 5.4 harness
as the Cylinder Head Temperature sensor (CHT) was used for the PCM to monitor coolant
temps. None of the 00+ 5.4s use ECT sensor or sender. Some of the 99 5.4s still use the
sender to feed info to the instrument cluster. You will have to tap the intake manifold
crossover pipe to fit the sensor(s) if your 4.6 has them and the 5.4 doesn’t.

Transmissions: the 4.6 and 5.4 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. That means that
all the transmissions will bolt up. All the 5.4 engines have 8 bolt crankshafts. Some 4.6
engines (ROMEO ENGINE) have 6 bolt cranks. You will need the flex plate from the 5.4.
Manual transmissions: If you don’t have an 8 bolt flywheel a flywheel from a 1997-8 4.6
Windsor engine will work. As it has 8 bolts it will bolt right up to the 5.4 crank. Remove the
flex plate spacer and install a pilot bearing from a 4.6.

Special note about the different automatic transmissions and their respective
harnesses. You cannot run a 4R100 transmission with a PCM that had a 4R70W
transmission and vice versa. The transmission harnesses are different and will not plug into
the different engine bay harness. The control functions in the PCM are not compatible so the
transmission will not function properly.

Torque Converters:
4R70W
ENGINE............Stall Speed............Multiplication
4.2..................1978-2330...............2.3:1
4.6..................2105-2505...............2.3:1
5.4..................1830-2190...............1.9:1

4R100
All Engines......??????....................2.2:1

If you swap a 5.4 into a 4.6 engine bay and use the 4.6 converter you will multiply the 5.4's
torque at a higher rate and at a higher stall speed which will put the torque at the
transmission input shaft close to the limit if not over the limit of the 4R70W. The 99+ 5.4
produces 350 ft/lbs of torque. 90% of that is available at 2000 rpm. The stall speed of the
4.6 is above the 2000 rpm range so more than 90% is available. 350 ft/lbs x 2.3(4.6
multiplier) x 90% is 724.5 ft/lbs.

Front hub seal

SKF Seal 29860
Originally Posted by akdoggie
F65Z-1S190-AA is the Ford number for the BRS-54. DJ is this number still available too?
https://www.diyford.com/how-to-assembly-ford-4-6l-5-4l-engines-step-by-step/

Serpentine Idler and tensioner bearing:

I did some searching myself and found the dimensions of the bearing are:
40X17X12 mm
ODxIDxWidth

I found many for sale over on eBay for 2.5-3 bucks with free shipping, just search for the
part number: 6203-2RS

Apparently these are very common in alternators too. I might pick up this $14.77 10-pack
just to have them laying around.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-6203-2RS-Premium-seal-6203-2rs-bearing-6203-ball-
bearings-6203-RS-ABEC3-/140895767893?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ce0acd55

Firing order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

Cylinder location:

Cowl
4---8
3---7
2---6
1---5
radiator

Now, the arrangement of wires as they come out of the coils:

Passenger side

cowl

6-3
1-5

radiator

Driver's side

cowl

7-2
4-8

radiator
MAF sensor: Delphi AF10119

Ford steering column bearings:

Upper Small F4DZ 3517-A (30.20mm OD 19.2mm ID)

Large F3TZ 3517-A (50mm OD 40mm ID)

Shifter bushings F3TZ-7L278-A

Upper thrust ring/race F3XY-3L539-A

FODZ-3C610-A Retainer

F3XY-3L539-A Thrust Ring

FODZ-3518-A Sleeve
You have an intermittent PCM relay power feed problem.

It may be due to any one of the following:

Ignition switch feed to the PCM power relay including the following components:
Fuse # F30 or connections
PCM Diode or connections
PCM power relay or connections
Ignition switch or connections
Fuse # F20 or its connections

Faulty ground G104 (located on upper radiator support near driver's side headlight).

All fuses and relays mentioned are under the hood.

Open the fuse box then remove and inspect the pins where the named components reside. Inspect the main wiring harnesses
to/from the power distibution box.