Style of Printing

In printing style means the manner in which a printed effect is produced

as distinct form the method which involves the means (like a block or
screen) by which the pattern is produced. Style of printing involves
certain mechanical operations and chemical reaction

Styles of printing are:

1. Direct style: This style is also referred as “steam style” because in
most of the case the printed fabric is steamed to fix the color. The
color is applied directly to the fabric with the required ingredients
and after printing and drying the color is fixed by steam or thermo
fixing. (Drying and fixing is done be steam or thermo fixing). Thus
a multicolored print on a white ground can be produced as
unprinted portion is white
2. Dyed Style: Dyed style differs from the direct style. In this method
the color and the mordant are applied separately in two stages,
known as mordanting and dyeing. The style is produced in three
steps:
a. Mordanting: Mordant is first applied on the cloth by printing,
then the fabric is dried and fixed with a fixing agent, then
washed well to remove excess fixing agent.
b. Dyeing: Finally, the fabric is dyed till the required depth of
shed is obtained. During this operation the dyestuff is combined
with the mordant to form an insoluble lake. But the color
unmordanted portions only adheres mechanically.
c. Washing: Washing and soaping of dyed fabric is done to
remove all loosely adhering color and to clear the unmounted
(white) parts of the pattern.

3. Discharge style: Discharge style of printing can be two types.

i. White discharge printing
ii. Colored discharge printing
In white discharge printing, the fabric is dyed then printed with a
paste containing a chemical the reduced the dye and hence
removes the color where white design are desired.
 After pre
treatment
and dyeing

Grey fabric Dyed with green color Discharged printed fabric

In color discharge printing, a color is added to the discharge paste

in order to replace the discharged color with another shade.

After pre
treatment
and dyeing

Grey fabric Dyed with green color Printed with discharge

agent + red

4. Resist Style: Resist style of printing is carried out in two steps:

a. Printing: The fabric is printed with resist salt solution which

is sprayed on the fabric mechanically or manually.
b. Dyeing: The fabric is dyed with a suitable dye as a result the
areas covered by the resist salt will not be dyed and other
portion will be dyed.

After dyeing with red

Printed with resist salt

After dyeing with red

Printed with green + resist salt

Types of resist style:

i. White resist: No color is added to the print paste solution with

resist salt. After dyeing the printed area remains white.
ii. Color resist: Coloring material is added to print paste with
resist salt. The printed area contains the color added to the print
paste and the remaining area will contain the color of dye
solution.

5. Azoic style: It consists of two steps:

i. Naphthalation: Naphthols are insoluble in water and they are

converted into water soluble compound by treating with
alkali. The process of dissolving naphthol is called
naphthalation.
ii. Diazotisation: It involves converting the base into soluble
diazonium salt. A base containing amino group (-NH2) to
form a solution of diazonium chloride of that base in
presence of excess HCl at 0-50 C temperature.
iii. Coupling: When naphthol react with diazonium salt, a diazo
radical produce. The reaction is called coupling reaction.

In azoic style, fabric is treated in two steps:

a. Printing: The fabric is printed with naphthol solution.
b. Padding; The fabric is treated in a bath containing
diazonium salt to carry out coupling reaction and thus
color is produced inside the fabric itself.
6. Ohers:
a. Raised style: The term “Raised” signifies that the color is
made visible on fabric by wet treatment. When a colorless
lead salt is printed on white fabric and then passed through a
 solution of potassium dichromate a yellow color of lead
chromate develops on the fabric.
2pb (CH3COO)2 + K2Cr2O7 + H2O 2pbCrO4 +
Lead acetate Lead chromate
2CH3COOK + 2CH3COOH

b. Metal style: Some spangle type metals are printed on the

fabric in this type.
c. Crepon/ Crimp/Crepe style: In this style, printing is
performed after alkali or heat setting. In this type, the object
is to shrink the goods at some parts giving a sort or shriveled
or crimped appearance to the treated area.