Drafting instructionsfor a spring dress with an open back and a tiered skirt

DARIA
PATTERNMAKING

For the reference you have seen in the video I have used 1.70 m (1 7/8 yard) of fabric for a whole dress in a size 36 EU (full
bust measurement – 86 cm (33.8”))
The fabric width was 122 cm (1 5/16 yards). I don’t recommend using a narrower fabric than this.

Fabrics recommended: non-transparent woven fabrics with good draping properties, such as any rayon fabrics; silk or
polyester georgette; any lightweight crepe; cotton lawn; viscose twill or plain weave fabric; any satin or charmeuse;
double gauze.

Drafting the bodice

1/2 fabric width
15 cm + 1 cm SA + 1 cm SA

(mine is 61 cm 11/16 yard) Fold the fabric in half along the grainline.
Cut 2 rectagle pieces along the fabric width. I
6” + 3/8” SA + 3/8” SA
fabric fold

recommend finding the height of the rectangles

2 pcs measuring yourself or a dressform and see how
high you want it to be on yourself.
Place these 2 rectangles on the top of each other
to make the outer and inner pieces.

1/2 of the front width

(mine is 24 cm 9 1/2”)
Mark a half of the front width from the fabric fold.
Measure the distance between the armpits and
fabric fold

use only a half of it.

If your fabric width is not enough to make the whole
bodice piece, I recommend making a seam here, and
continue drafting the remaining part of the bodice
on other rectangles with the same height.

1/2 of the full bust

(mine is 43 cm 1/2 yard)
fabric fold

Mark a half of the full bust measurement from the

fabric fold. This is where the knot will be placed.
Draw a line between these markings.

Mark 6 cm (2 3/8”) from the both top and bottom

edges on the line. Connect the new points with
fabric fold

the previously marked.

Draw a desired shape of the ties on the remaining
part of the rectangle. Cut the bodice pieces.
2 3/8”
6 cm

1
Drafting the tiered skirt
For the tiered skirt you have seen as a reference in the video I have used 5 rectangle pieces, cut along the fabric width.
My fabric width is 122 cm (1 5/16 yards).

fabric width

23 cm + 1 cm SA + 1 cm SA
(mine is 122 cm 1 5/16 yards)

9” + 3/8” SA + 3/8” SA
5 pcs

The skirt consists of 3 tiers: the first tier is just one

rectangle, which is equal to your fabric width.
Its approximate gathering ratio is:
fabric width - SA
1st tier :1
1/2 (underbust measurement + full bust measurement)

= 120 cm / 1/2 (72 cm + 86 cm) = 1.52:1

I use the underbust and full bust measurements for the
calculation, because the bodice bottom will appear
somewhere between these lines. The seam allowance
(SA) is 1 cm (3/8”). I calculate the ratio for the first tier
2nd tier just to check its equality to the next ones.

55% For the second tier use the whole width rectangle +
55% of the other rectangle.
All the tiers should have an equal or almost equal
gathering ratio. It provides quality looking result and
makes working with a gathering foot easier.
Its gathering ratio is:
rectangle width - SA + 0.55 * (rectangle width - SA)
the first tier width
:1

= (120 cm + 120 cm *0.55) / 120 cm = 1.55:1

3rd tier

For the third rectangle use 2 whole rectangles + the

remaining 45% of the rectangle.
45% Its gathering ratio is:

2 * (rectangle width - SA) + 0.45 * (rectangle width - SA)

:1
the second tier width

= 2 * 120 cm + 0.45 * 120 cm / 186 cm = 1.58:1

The full fabric width is used for the dress. You can use some rectangles partly to keep the same gathering ratio for all the
tiers. As well as you can use more of rectangle pieces to create tiers, or increase the gathering ratio as desired (1.5:1 – 3:1
recommended).
If your fabric width is not enough to make the first tier as a one rectangle piece, I recommend taking twice as many rectangle
pieces for each tier.

Thank you! hope this was helpful! I would be glad if you will tag me on Instagram @daria_patternmaking