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Finished plush dimensions: 10.5” tall (laying flat to top of ears), 9” wide, 18” long (toe to tail)
Materials needed to make 1 laying Umbreon (WxL, L= yardage, parallel to selvedge)

This pattern is made best for minky, or other similar stretch fabrics like fleece. Other fabrics (like non-stretch) may not
work as well with this pattern, and some pieces may not fit properly.

Fabric A: 1/2 yard minky (or fleece) for main color. I used Charcoal Shannon minky.
Fabric B: 1/8 yd minky (or fleece) for stripes and rings. I used Lemon Shannon minky.

Safety Eyes/Nose: 16mm plastic eyes, 12mm triangle nose(I recommend GlassEyesOnline.com; good selection, cheap,
with fast shipping)

Hand Embroidered mouth: Embroidery floss, I use DMC #5 or #25.

Notions & tools recommended:

Universal or ballpoint needle (for sewing machines), hand sewing needle, polyester thread, 4” doll needle (for optional
needlesculpting), scissors, quilting pins, regular pins, polyester fiberfill, pen, chopstick and hemostats for turning,
polyester pellets for weighting, funnel for polyester pellets, tear-away interfacing(I use coffee filters), awl or small
scissors for making a hole for the safety nose, thread conditioner (to make hand sewing easier).

Machine sewing stitches used:

Running Stitch, Zig-Zag Stitch (Optional)

Hand sewing stitches used:

Red = showing threads | Blue = hidden threads | Dark grey = top fabric | Light grey = bottom fabric

Ladder Stitch The ladder stitch is used to close openings. Use a color that is
close to the fabric being sewn closed. Stitch in and out of one
side side, then in and out of the other. Pull the thread to close
the stitch, and the two pieces of fabric will be pulled to each
other.

Back Stitch This stitch can substitute the straight stitch on machine.
Stitch from WS to RS of fabric 1 full stitch forward, then stitch
backwards half a stitch. Stitch forward 1 stitch for the next
stitch, and then half a stitch backwards into the closest edge
of the last stitch.

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About this pattern
● “Stretch” arrows on the pattern run parallel with the crosswise grain (major horizontal stretch) of the fabric.
● “Nap” arrows on the pattern run along the way the fur goes. If the arrow points, down, fur should point down so
that when you pet it, it’s smooth downwards (like the back of a cat, the direction goes one way)
● Seam allowance is included, and is 1/4”.
● RS = Right Side of fabric, WS = Wrong Side of fabric, SA = Seam Allowance

Layout & Cutting Tips

● Print out the pattern pieces, and cut around the outer edge of the black outlines.
● Minky is stretchy, and cutting the pieces separately will give you better symmetry. If you do cut 2 layers of minky
at the same time, make absolutely sure that the directional stretch is the same for each half piece.
● Smooth out your minky, and place the pattern pieces parallel to the crosswise grain/major horizontal stretch,
and that nap(fur direction) is going the same way as the nap arrow.
● You can pin your pattern to the fabric, trace it with pen, or hold it in place and carefully cut around.
● For each piece marked as “Cut 2”, cut 1 piece, then flip the pattern, and cut the 2nd piece. You should have 1
piece each of WS and RS facing up.

Clipping curved edges:

Pinning tips
● I recommend quilting pins, as they are thinner than regular pins. For pinning many layers of fabric together, use
regular pins.

Machine Sewing Tips

● Use a 1” square of tear-away interfacing underneath your beginning threads of sewing so the fabric doesn’t get
pushed down into the throat area by the needle. I cut up basket-style coffee filters, and rip them away after
sewing.
● Decrease top tension and increase stitch length when sewing over 4+ layers of minky, such as over many seams.
● For an easier time sewing minky or fleece, use a walking foot to keep both pieces feeding evenly.

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Dart Sewing Tips
The “v” shaped dart will become a straight line. Sew using 1/4“ SA, starting at one point and finishing at the other. As
you sew, your seam allowance will decrease until you reach the end. Make sure to backstitch at the start of and end of
the dart. When finishing, sew as smoothly as possible, so that the angle of your dart blends smoothly with the folded
fabric. I sew this as a slight curve.
Using small scissors, snip open some of the fold under the seam allowance to allow the fabric to move more freely in this
area. Stop cutting where I’ve indicated with the blue pinhead. Cut open some of folded fabric to ease

-> flipped piece over ->

Sewing instructions
1. Prepare the paper pattern
Align pattern for Tummy pieces, and Body Side pieces, and tape them together.
For Body Sides: cut holes in paper pattern for O-O1 and P-P1. You will not cut the fabric, just the paper.

2. Prepare face
If you don’t want to use black safety eyes, you can cut out the eye patterns, and use one of the following methods:
Sewn eyes: http://www.teacuplion.com/how-to-applique-faces-on-minky/
Painted eyes: http://www.teacuplion.com/plushie-eye-painting-tutorial/
Iron-on eyes: http://www.teacuplion.com/plush-iron-on-eye-tutorial/

3. Cut fabric pieces

Cut fabric according to instructions on each pattern piece.
For the paw hands and feet, the nap will run 2 different directions. Cut 2 pieces in each nap direction.
This part is really important!
For Tummy: O-O1 and P-P1, use water-soluble marker or chalk to trace these markings to the tummy. Do not use regular
pen and do not cut these holes in the fabric!! You are drawing the actual stitching lines, not seam allowance. Any ink left
on will remain on the final plush, and will cause staining from the inside.

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 4. Sew Head Front darts
Sew Head Front A-A1 forehead darts.
Sew Head Front K-K1 cheek darts.
Using small scissors, snip open some of the fold under the seam allowance to allow the fabric to move more freely in this
area.

5. Sew Head Front center

Sew Head Front RS together C-D along the forehead. Clip curved edge.

6. Sew Muzzle Sides (halfway only)

Pin Muzzle Sides RS together, sew G-G1 down the nose area.

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 7. Sew Muzzle Top to Muzzle Sides
Pin Muzzle Top G (center tip) to Muzzle Side G. Pin outer edges E to E, and then inbetween. Sew around Muzzle Top to
Muzzle Sides E-G-E. Clip curved edges.

8. Sew Muzzle to Head Front

Pin Muzzle center notch D to Head Front center seam D. Pin all the way around Muzzle F to Head Front F, easing to fit.
Optional: Use a basting stitch before machine sewing.
Sew Muzzle to Head Front F-E-D-E-F. To have less puckers, sew with the Muzzle side down on the machine, and
repeatedly lift the foot presser with the needle in the down position, and adjust fabric as necessary. Clip curved edges.

9. Sew Ring onto forehead

Fold one of the rings in half lengthwise, and place pins at the centers. Align each pin to the center seam of the Head
Front. Pin around the entire ring. Using your sewing machine and yellow thread, single stitch the ring on, both inner and
outer raw edges. I increase the stitch length a bit, and then brush the fibers out using a pin or toothbrush.
Optional: You can satin stitch around the rings after using a straight stitch. Use a ziz zag stitch and short stitch length.

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 10. Sew Head Front chin
Sew the rest of the Muzzle all the way to the chin G1-F-Q. Clip curved edges.

11. Sew Ear Stripes into Ear pieces

Assemble ear pieces so that the stripe is in the middle. Try to keep the left and right ears separate.
Pin and sew RS together Ear Base to Ear Stripe U to U1. Pin and sew RS together Ear Stripe to Ear Tip W to W1. Repeat
for all Ear pieces.

12. Sew around ears

Pin ear pieces RS together. Sew around Ears J to I, leaving short flat edge open. Clip curved edges, turn using hemostats.
When turned, push out Ear tip with chopstick. Stuff Ears using hemostats, and set aside.

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 13. Sew Head Back center
Set machine stitch length back to regular. Sew Head Back along center back seam C-L. Clip curved edges.

14. Sew Head Front to Head Back

Pin Head Back to Head Front RS together. Match C to C, B to B. Sew Head Front to Head Back B-C-B, leave the neck open.
Clip curved edges and set head aside.

15. Sew Tail Stripes into Tail

Pin and sew RS together Tail Base to Tail Stripe S to S1. Pin and sew RS together Tail Stripe to Tail Tip T to T1. Repeat for
other Tail piece.

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 16. Sew around Tail
Pin Tail pieces RS together. Sew M-R, leaving short flat edge open. Clip curved edges, turn using hemostats.
When turned, push out Tail tip with chopstick. Stuff Tail using hemostats, and set aside.

17. Sew Rings onto Body Sides

Pin circles to arms and legs, using the alignment lines on the pattern as a guide. I lay the pattern down on top of the cut
fabric, Then lay the ring down, and pull the pattern out, holding the ring in place. I then pin the ring down, and repeat for
the other rings.
Using yellow thread, single stitch around the inner and outer raw edges of the Rings.
Optional: You can satin stitch around the rings after using a straight stitch. Use a zig zag stitch and short stitch length.

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 18. Sew Tummy O-O1 and P-P1
Take Tummy pieces, fold along O-O1 and P-P1 and pin. Sew along the pen line O-O1 and P-P1.
When done, trim away excess fabric to ease the curve.

If you accidentally forgot to use water soluble pen and used regular/permanent pen, use a spot remover to remove the
pen lines. Any remaining pen lines can stain the plush from inside.

19. Sew Tummy center

Pin and sew Tummy RS together along Q-R. Clip curved edges.

20. Sew Body Sides to Tummy

Align and pin Tummy to one of the Body Side pieces. Start by pinning at each major point: K to K and R to R. Then pin
everywhere inbetween these. You will leave the neck and the back open. Sew around from K to R, leaving the neck and
back open. It will be easier to sew on the machine with the tummy on the bottom. The notch R on the Body Side will
match Tummy R.
Repeat for second Body Side piece. When finished, clip curved edges.

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 21. Sew Body Side back seam
Pin and sew Body Side seam along the back L to R.
On the Body Side pattern is a blue line where you will seam rim it open in Step 23 to turn and stuff.

22. Sew Head to Body

Pin the Head to the Body, starting with the major seams; matching Q to Q, K to K, and L to L. Then pin all inbetween.
Optional: Baste around neck.
Sew Head to Body around the entire neck. Sew Q-K-L-K-Q.
There’s a lot of bulk at the back of the neck on the sewing machine; you can always leave it open and handsew using a
backstitch.
Clip curved edges.

23. Turn inside-out, add pellets and stuffing

Use your seam ripper to make a 2.5” hole in the back seam between L and M (shown as a blue line on the pattern).
Carefully turn your plush through the hole.
Optional: Add loose polyester pellets into each Hand and Foot.

If the plush is for a young child, you can make child-safe fabric casings for the pellets. Using cotton, make 2” squares, sew
3 edges shut, fill them with pellets, and stitch the openings closed.
Using polyester fiberfill, begin stuffing each Hand and Foot. Stuff firmly in the Muzzle. Fill the rest of the Head and Body
until desired fill. The head should be more stuffed than the body.

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 24. Embroider paw lines
To make 3 paw toes on the hand, insert 2 pins in the middle of the paw, making sure the pins are parallel to each other
at both the top and bottom of the paw.
Using polyester thread, knot, and insert the needle into the bottom of paw. Stitch out at the top of paw at the pin.
Loop the thread around the top of the paw, and stitch into where the first knot is.

Stitch out again at the second pin on the top of the paw. Pull the thread, forming the toe, “easing” the thread down with
a pin to create even tension. Repeat for the second toe line.
When both toes are complete, bring the needle to the bottom of the paw and make a knot near the base of the fabric,
then hide the knot. (I have a free tutorial on teacuplion.com for hiding knots.) Repeat for the other hand.

To make toes on the feet, repeat as you did for the hands. You can place your pins at these points for best results:

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 25. (Optional) Make hole for eyes and nose, insert eyes
The face of your plush will be the most important and adorable part, so make sure your placements are as symmetrical
as possible!
Place pins where you would like the eyes and nose to go. Check alignment with a mirror, or measure the distance from
the markings or pins to various edges of the fabric. You can also cut 16mm circles and put a pin through the center of
each, so you can make sure your eyes come out perfectly aligned.

Make a small hole on this dot for each eye and the nose using an awl or small sharp scissors. Insert the eyes to test; if
one is crooked, you can adjust the eye hole position or size only very slightly (a few mm) as necessary with scissors. To
do this, make a small cut in the direction that the eye should move more towards.

26. Stitch the mouth

You can use water soluble pen to draw where you want the mouth to be. Place pins where you want the mouth to curve.
Test with your embroidery thread by wrapping around the pins to make sure the smile is cute and symmetrical.

Use 20 inches of embroidery thread, and knot your threads. Insert the doll needle through the nose hole, and stitch out
to just under where the nose will be.
Stitch down into the top center of the mouth, then stitch at the left mouth corner.
When tightening your thread, ease the last bit of thread down gently by holding a pin underneath, easing both threads
down evenly.

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(Step 26 continued)

Stitch into the mouth center, and out to the right mouth corner.

From the right mouth corner, stitch back into the center mouth, and finally bring the needle out through the nose hole.
Clip threads and knot once. Slowly tighten and ease the knots to the base of the fabric. Pull on the mouth embroidery a
bit to make sure the knot is tight and against the back of the fabric. Then double-knot.

27. Attach nose and eye backings

Remove a bit of the stuffing from the head, attach nose backing. Re-stuff muzzle firmly.
Attach eye backings, and re-stuff head.

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 28. Ladder stitch back

How to Ladder Stitch:

Shown top view in the diagram, horizontal pink stitches are on the wrong side of fabric, inside the plush.
Use some thread conditioner to make hand sewing easier.

Pick a thread color that matches the area you will sew closed. Thread your needle, and knot. Insert your needle into the
wrong side of the fabric near the existing stitches at the top of the opening. Keep the original 1/4” SA, and stitch out to
the right side of the fabric. Sew into the fabric on the opposite piece with 1/4” SA, make a small stitch, and cross over to
the opposite piece of fabric. Repeat, pulling the hole closed with tension on the thread as you sew. If you need to put in
more stuffing, do so before the opening closes completely.

If you have not sewn the tail on yet, you can sew it on now using the ladder stitch.
If you unstuffed your tail to easily sew it into the back seam, use a seam ripper to create a 1/2” hole in a seam. Add
stuffing, and ladder stitch closed.

29. Ladder-stitch Tail to tush

Pin the tail to the tush of the plush. Using black thread, hand sew the tail on using a ladder stitch using 1/8” SA. I keep
the Tail Base M and R flat as I sew it on, so the tail can “wag” from side to side. If you sew it on in a circle shape, the tail
will be stiff.

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 30. Ladder-Stitch Ears to Head
Pin ears to head, checking alignment in a mirror. I align the inner ear close to the face’s front dart. Ladder-stitch ears to
head using 1/8” SA.

31. Cleanup
Lint-roll any stray threads, and voila! Welcome your big cuddly Umbreon plush into the world with a great big hug!

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About the Artist

Hi! I’m Laura, a designer and plush toy artist
who has made hundreds of original designs
since 2006. I enjoy creating high-quality
patterns that make characters and animals
really come to life.

My tutorials are packed full of my years of

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