Br182020 Inside The Winers Cie: Chicago's Most oul-Mouthed Hot Do
What It's Like to Work at The Wiener's Circle, Chicago's Most Foul-
Mouthed Restaurant
“Damn, you drop ash from your dick when you slide through your old ass boxers? You be up there smoking cigarettes in your bed,
motherfucker?”
This is how Roberta "Poochie” Jackson, a longtime employee of the Chicago hot dog stand Wiener’s Circle, talks to a young man in
«black Patagonia jacket and Sperry boots at 1am on a Saturday.
[ts not the typical greeting you'd find in a customer service manual, but this Lincoln Park joint isn't your typical restaurant, People
don't just come for the food ~ they come, and stay, for the entertainment: a staff of kitchen workers who hurl profane insults at
every customer with the guts to eat there
“You be up there smoking in bed, you motherfucker," Poochie sasses, after the guy meekly responds with a “shut up!” “It don't be
cigarettes,” says another employee, line cook JB, standing in the swinging doorway to the kitchen. “It be fucking blunts.”
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“Blunts, cigarettes, they all still got ashes. Ashes still stink, motherfucker," Poochie yells. The
food among the throng of late-night customers.
Nex
"yells Poochie, or the “Queen of Wiener's Circle backtal” as one manager puts it. To get roasted by her and the other
employees of
their time - and sense that you can take a verbal beating ~ you'll get a tapestry of profanity and insults with your hot dog order.
‘These are some of the best
‘his legendary spot, which stays open til Sam on weekends, is somewhat of an honor. Ifthey deem you worthy of
sult comics you'll find in the Second City
At about half the heig
on North Clark. The brig
of the other single-story buildings on the block, the brown brick Weiner’s Circle is the runt of this stretch
red pionic tables outside are always packed late at night with loud patrons gobbling down food served
on red and white paper trays. Inside, the aging tiles and wood paneling suggest that the place hasn't changed much since opening,
in the 80s,
Neither has the food. The Vienna beef chardogs are grilled until the casing can't hold up any longer and splits open at the ends.
‘The charbargers ate done until they're black and crispy on both sides. And you cant talk about the Circle without mentioning the
where people expected more, “They're requesting it, all the time, day and night,”
do it with a litte love ~ rude with a smile. [ don't want to be rude with a frown
says longtime manager Evelyn Morris, “We try to
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stomer just smiles and waits for his,w82020 Inside The Wieners Circe: Cicagos Most Foul-Mouthed Hot Dog Sta -Thilist
Morris has worked there for 28 years and knows Circle potential when she sees it, which is why she hired Poochie, who formerly
nent and work ethic to hold court. “I didn't even know it was a
babysat her kids, in 1998. Evelyn knew Poochie had the temp
restaurant where they would curse you out,” Poochie says, laughing. When she started working nights, she hit her stride, “This is
me. It's not an act. I curse like a sailor, for rea.” She's since become the star of the show, throwing insults atthe likes of Ira Glass,
former Bears receiver Aishon Jeffery, and 30 Rock's Jack McBrayer, who went there fora bit on Conan with Triumph the Insul
Comic Dog. “I've never been able to even get near her, to top her in being rude. I cant,” says Morris,
They're doing comedy routines ail day, and if a joke kills, they use it again in their
next set.
1ey “have asses,” I'm face-to-face with Poochie herself, ready for her
After talkin
hazing, Luckily, I'd called ahead to
B, who jokingly asks a group of girls if
ik to her, so when [ introduce myself, she greets me warmly and brings me behind the
counter:
J neon pink socks in slip-on
‘Veneck, ang
As soon as I step behind the counter into the kitchen, a woman with long braids, @ whit
sandals yells, “What the fuck do you want glaring at me, This is Chanel, the princess of insults to Poochie's queen, who assumes
ighter flow in through the order windows
‘m an over-bold customer stumbling into the kitchen to get some fries. Shouts and la
where Poochie stands, insulting the next customer. Chanel mans the grill. JB is on fries. A guy named Dion is in charge of
hh
and take home around $40
assembly. Ifthe night goes well, they'll spit the tip
The insults continue from Poochie, Chanel, JB, and the rest ofthe crew:
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= “Little bitches in the back, let's go! Step the fuck up and order! Chronie lat chest that she's suffering from. Itty bitty titty
committee. Tmean its not my fault you cant get itty fucked.
“That dress, what iif Itlooks more lke a curtain to me”
“Uh oh, someone has heavy scrotum syndrome.”
"Want me to buy you a drink from 7-11? Motherfucker, i's comin!”
“Look out for your purse! Black people alert! All those bitches steal. Especially that litte bitch with that mohawk on her head.
Al night, that’s the way it goes. No one's offended. Hew even really talk back. They just laugh at Poochie and laugh at themselves.
Most guests are wise enough ta know they can't compete with Poochie and her colleagues when it comes to trading barbs, “A
professional comedian at Second City came in,” says owner Tim Wan, “and he tried to go toe to toe with the staf, Hie left almost in
ath ull the “fuck yous," “step the fuck ups," and “you better have my fucking tips,” what sticks oul is Morris’ “rude with a smile
ethos, Sure, Poochie ribs the customers with some pretty pointed profanity, but its never overly mean and always damn Funny,
the wienercirlechicago-hotdog-stnd1182020, Inside The Wieners Circe: Chicago's Most Foul-Mouthed Hot Dog Stare -ilist
She, JB, and Chanel are like Chicago versions ofthe late, great Don Rickles, only they also serve burgers and dogs ~ everything and
‘everyone, with the exception of kids, i fair game.
‘When to insult someone and when to back offs a skill the employees learned the hard way back when the Circle was still new to
Lincoln Park. People came in expecting a normal hot dog stand and, when met with the atypical customer service, shit could hit,
the fan. Like the time in the 90s, when one of the co-owners, Larry, said toa woman, "Bitch, what do you want on your burger?”
The woman's husband demanded an apology, to which Larry responded, “Puck you.” The man picked up a Heinz ketchup can,
hurled it over the counter, and sent Larry to the hospital. Larry left the Circle a couple years later. This, Morris says, is when the
crew realized being rude all day wasn't good for business and safety
Now, the staffers are pros at feeling out the clientele, changing responses to match who's in the restaurant, Believe it or not, many
families bring children here. With the younger crowd, Poochic turns from a bad-mouthed sass master to an inspirational mentor
“Stay in school. Dont let anybody bully you. You're beautiful. Respect your parents” With the young ones, she has a code: “I don't
1b kids. Unless their parents give me permission to, Then, [ pretty much rip them a litle asshole
On one Sunday afternoon, there are a couple father-daughter duos dining at the Cirele. Pablo Devera and his teenage daughter,
Cameron, come here every other Saturday to grab a dog. “ve been coming here all my life,” Pablo says, laughing beneath his flat
brimmed Cubs hat. “I's a crazy scene. I've only seen tourists get offended because they don't know the whole thing.”
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