InterweaveKnits2021 Winter

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ER

IV S
UN

AL

YA
RN

Deluxe Men
an ebook featuring
patterns using
Deluxe Worsted &
Deluxe Worsted
Superwash

www.universalyarn.com
fine fibers available at your local yarn shop & online
CONTENTS
INTERWEAVE KNITS • WINTER 2021

PROJECTS
Victorian Gothic 22 Lucy Westenra’s
Wrap
11 Dorian Gray’s Susanna IC
Pullover
Melanie Asato 25 Vaulted Swoncho
Kristen Jancuk
13 Christabel’s Shawl
Lana Jois 26 Thrushcross Shawl
Jennifer Miller Comstock
14 Carmilla’s Mitts
Elizabeth Lubowitz 29 Whitby Cowl &
Hood
17 Mary Shelley’s Estefania Espindola
Shawl
Renate Kamm 30 St. Machar Wrap
Fiona Munro
18 Adeline’s Cardigan
Linda Marveng 33 Miss Eyre’s Cape
Donna Estin
21 Sublime Mitts
Kate Scalzo 34 Ghostly Mitts
Jennifer Miller Comstock

21
FEATURES
08 Art of Darkness: Gothic,
Aesthetics, and Knitting
Julia Pillard

36 Controlling Ladders
When Working Cables
Donna Estin

DEPARTMENTS
02 Editor’s Note
04 Maker’s Tools
06 Fiber Review: It Was a
Dark and Stormy Knit
Laura Hulslander

80 Ravelings: Gothic Knits

22 Inspiration
Fiona Munro

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Dear Reader, WINTER 2021 • VOLUME XXV • NUMBER 4

Many people don’t believe me when I tell EDITORIAL


them that winter is my favorite season. DIRECTOR OF CONTENT Tamara Honaman
EDITOR Hannah Baker
Reactions range from amusement to incre-
MANAGING EDITOR Laura Hulslander
dulity when I say that I prefer the short SENIOR PROJECT EDITOR Joni Coniglio
days and long nights of wintertime. But the ASSISTANT EDITOR Julia Pillard
TECHNICAL EDITOR Karen Frisa
truth is that I’ve always enjoyed the dark
COPY EDITOR Dale Ulland
more than the day, the snow more than the PROOFREADER Nancy Arndt
sun, in part because of the contrast it draws.
MARKETING & ADVERTISING
This issue of Interweave Knits emerged from a conversation
SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Jessi Rodriguez
I had with then-editor Hannah Baker soon after I was hired at ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER
Interweave. I’ve always loved Gothic literature, and a sojourn Diane Kocal, dkocal@goldenpeakmedia.com
AD TRAFFICKER Lori Hauser
to Italy and England during my college years left me with an
adoration for Gothic architecture as well. When I was hired at CREATIVE SERVICES
Interweave, one idea possessed me above all others: Why not do a ART DIRECTOR Kerry Jackson
PHOTOGRAPHY Molly Stevenson
Gothic issue of Interweave Knits? After a little while, I got up the STYLING Tina Gill
nerve to pitch the concept to Hannah. HAIR AND MAKEUP Beauty on Location Studio
I’m fortunate that the editorial team, our art director Kerry
Jackson, and our contributors were enthusiastically receptive to
the idea. Our call for submissions focused on a few aspects of DIRECTOR OF CONTENT Tiffany Warble
GROUP ART DIRECTOR Emily Simpson
Gothic aesthetic, such as opulence and the sublime—and the DIRECTOR OF MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald
capes, shawls, and sweaters we received certainly reflect those
GOLDEN PEAK MEDIA
themes. When determining where such a theme would fit, we
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg
ended up in the darkness of the winter season. After all, Gothic is SVP, CONSUMER MARKETING Paula Backer
about the interplay of dark and light. From the soaring cathedrals VP, FINANCE Jordan Bohrer
VP, DIGITAL Melanie Darienzo
of the fourteenth century to modern Gothic films that juxtapose
VP, PRODUCT & STRATEGY Josiah Klebaner
rich colors with dark themes, Gothic has always allowed those NEWSSTAND SALES Scott T. Hill, scott.hill@pubworx.com
who embrace it to walk between the darkness and the light.
We began receiving the beautiful knitted pieces in this issue To subscribe, please call (800) 835-6187 or visit www.interweave.com.
right after Colorado began locking down in March due to the Subscription Services: Have a question about your Interweave Knits
COVID-19 pandemic. Working on this issue in the midst of the subscription? Visit our website, call us, or email your question, and we’ll be
happy to assist you. Go to www.interweave.com and click on Subscriber
pandemic has been an enlightening experience. As I said, I’ve Services to change your address, pay your bill, and to submit subscription
always enjoyed the dark more than the daylight. But this year has questions or concerns.
Email: knits@emailcustomerservice.com
brought with it more darkness than most of us were prepared for. U.S. & Canadian Customer Service: (800) 835-6187
International Customer Service: (386) 246-0105
It has, however, allowed us to see places where the light shines Mail: PO Box 433289, Palm Coast, FL 32143
through. Interweave Knits® (ISSN 2328-286X print and 2328-2940 online) is published
If you’re unfamiliar with the history of the Gothic aesthetic, quarterly by Interweave, a division of Peak Media Properties, LLC, dba
Golden Peak Media, 4868 Innovation Drive, Fort Collins, CO 80525, USPS
I’ve written a primer on the topic on page 8. On page 36, Donna #017-249. Periodicals postage paid at Fort Collins, CO 80525, and additional
Estin has provided a great guide to controlling ladders in cables. mailing offices. All contents of this issue of Interweave Knits are © 2020 by
Peak Media Properties, LLC. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $26.95/
And our Ravelings for this issue is from designer Fiona Munro, one year in the U.S., $30.95/one year in Canada, and $33.95/one year in
international countries (surface delivery). U.S. funds only.
who takes us on a tour of the cathedral that inspired her St.
Postmaster: Send address changes to Interweave Knits, PO Box 433289,
Machar Wrap (page 80). Palm Coast, FL 32143.
We hope this issue helps you find places for the light to shine Advertising Information: Diane Kocal, dkocal@goldenpeakmedia.com or
through in your own life. visit www.interweave.com.

Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store, please
email sales@goldenpeakmedia.com or call (800) 272-2193.
Happy Gothic K
Knitting,
Editorial inquiries: Email knitting@goldenpeakmedia.com.

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only.
Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the
publisher. Patterns, charts, and schematics may be photocopied to make
projects for personal use. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy
of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If
you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please contact us at
Julia Pillard www.interweave.com.

Interweave Knits® does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the


advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Knits. Nor does Knits
evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your
own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views
advertised herein.

WINTER 2021 2 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


MAKER’S TOOLS

6
4

Bookish Accessories for the


LITERARY KNITTER
1 Wonderful words for trying times are printed on this Handmade Leather Bookmark by Kingsley Leather. Cozy up with your
favorite sweater and book with this gorgeous bookmark to keep you company. www.etsy.com/shop/KingsleyLeather 2 Don’t be
fooled by the colorway name! Third Vault Yarns Sinaya DK in colorway Death is a luscious blend of Merino, nylon, and cashmere.
This particular colorway is inspired by Neil Gaiman’s Sandman comics; check out Third Vault Yarns for more colors inspired by the
graphic novel series. www.thirdvaultyarns.com 3 These beautiful William Morris Buttons from Ginger Mint Collection use prints
created by famed Victorian textile designer William Morris. Add some romantic flare to your next cardigan or buttoned mitts!
www.etsy.com/shop/GingerMintCollection 4 Find a pin to match your bookmark with this Frankenstein Anatomical Heart Enamel
Pin from The Literary Emporium. Decorate your favorite project bag and show off just how fearless you are. www.literaryemporium
.co.uk 5 This beautiful Mary Shelley Leather Bookmark from Storiarts is sure to become a favorite reading accessory. Channel
your inner Gothic writer and find yourself swept away by a good ghost story this winter. www.storiarts.com 6 If there’s one thing
knitters know, it’s the importance of a good project bag. This Edgar Allen Poe-ka Dots Tote from Out of Print can hold your current
project, knitting accessories, and a favorite book to boot! www.outofprint.com

WINTER 2021 4 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Enjoy
200 +
FREE
knitting
patterns at
Interweave

Projects are included


in the 7 Free Knitted Cowl
Patterns for Women eBook

www.interweave.com

WINTER 2021 5 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


FIBER REVIEW

1 2

IT WAS A DARK AND


STORMY KNIT . . .
BY LAURA HULSLANDER

Whether you’re the hero or the monster in your own romantic tale, you
need a sublime yarn to create the perfect project. These four deep,
moody yarns set the scene for your own Gothic garments.

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FIBER REVIEW

3 4

1 PLYMOUTH YARN MOJITO MERINO 3 KITTY PRIDE FIBERS ABYSSINIAN


Content: 81% fine Merino wool, 19% nylon | Color: #26 Content: 100% superwash Merino | Color: The Venue
Cobalt | Put-up: 191 yd (175 m)/1¾ oz (50 g) Put-up: 438 yd (400 m)/3½ oz (100 g) | Recommended
Recommended Needle Size: Size 10 (6 mm) Needle Size: Size 1–3 (2.25–3.25 mm)
Chainette construction makes this yarn light and lofty and This soft, smooth yarn has a subtle shine, and the tonal
gives it a bouclé-like texture. The plush feel comes from a color shows off any stitch pattern from lace to texture.
blend of Merino and nylon fibers. It makes elegant trim for Hand-dyed in Chicago, this yarn is perfect for dramatic
a hooded cape and splendidly warm, cozy scarves and mittens. wraps and romantic socks, as well as lightweight sweaters.
www.plymouthyarn.com www.dyehardyarns.com

2 MADELINETOSH FARM TWIST 4 TANIS FIBER ARTS PUREWASH DK


Content: 100% superwash Merino wool | Color: Antique Content: 100% organic superwash Merino | Color: Cosmic
Moonstone | Put-up: 225 yd (205 m) | Recommended Night | Put-up: 260 yd (238 m)/4 oz (113 g) | Recommended
Needle Size: Size 6–7 (4–4.5 mm) Needle Size: Size 4–6 (3.5–4 mm)
With a soft twist and a speckled coloration, this yarn captures This yarn is hand-dyed using several different shades to
the look of rough-cut minerals. The color variations are subtle create a shimmering, multicolored look. Made from organic
yet interesting, adding depth to both simple stockinette stitch Merino wool spun in Canada, this yarn is delightfully soft.
and complex cables. Try this yarn for statement hats and Use it for gorgeous sweaters and stunning blankets.
sophisticated sweaters. www.madelinetosh.com www.tanisfiberarts.com

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ART OF DARKNESS GOTHIC, AESTHETICS, AND KNITTING

ART OF DARKNESS
Gothic, Aesthetics, and Knitting
BY JULIA PILLARD

Everyone has a different image in mind when


they hear the word Gothic. Some picture the
soaring edifices of many of Europe’s most
famous cathedrals, while others imagine those
cathedrals in ruins and inhabited by windswept
maidens dressed in white. Still others may
envision the barbarian tribes that plagued the
Roman Empire, or the goth fashion movement
popularized in the latter half of the twentieth
century. Where, then, does true Gothic lie?

The answer is a complicated labyrinth of history, terminology, poli-


tics, and culture. The term “Gothic” derives from the Latin term
for a barbarian tribe in Northern Germany. It is perhaps no surprise
that, given its association with barbarians, when Gothic was used
to describe the towering architectural style that emerged in the

ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES PLUS/GRAPE_VEIN


mid-twelfth century, it was meant as an insult. Most people are now
familiar with the trappings of Gothic architecture: Flying buttresses,
pointed arches, and ribbed vaults were developed to give more
height to structures and increase natural light. Gothic architecture
flourished from the late Middle Ages through the Renaissance, and
the term that originally was meant to insult became just the name
of that particular style. Several of the designs in this issue were
inspired by the towering, dramatic style of Gothic architecture.
Fiona Munro’s St. Machar Wrap (page 30), for example, was inspired
by St. Machar’s Cathedral, located in her hometown of Aberdeen,
Scotland. The church, which was completed in 1530, today sports
stunning stained glass and pointed Gothic arches. You can read
more about Fiona’s exploration of St. Machar’s in this issue’s
Ravelings (page 80).
But Gothic aesthetics did not stay in the world of architecture. that the book was a translated manuscript from sixteenth-century
By the eighteenth century, the term had become attached to another Italy, which was a popular literary device at the time to drum up
art form entirely: the novel. interest and sales. In the second edition, however, the real authorship
The first story to bear the descriptor Gothic was Horace Walpole’s was revealed, and the title page bore the subtitle A Gothic Story.
The Castle of Otranto (1764). The novel tells the tale of a castle At the time, Gothic merely meant that the story took place in
wrongfully obtained by its current tenant, Manfred, and the mis- antiquity, around the same time that Gothic cathedrals were being
fortunes that befall his family as a result. The first edition purported built. Walpole himself was no stranger to Gothic architecture:

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ART OF DARKNESS GOTHIC, AESTHETICS, AND KNITTING

In 1747, he purchased his house, Strawberry Hill, which he trans-


formed into a neo-Gothic paradise. However, the word became
associated with many of the set pieces of Walpole’s story, not the
least of which was the aesthetic: a crumbling manor house in spooky
environs. Several designers in this issue pursued that aesthetic with
their own haunting designs. Jennifer Miller Comstock’s Thrushcross
GETTY IMAGES NEWS/PETER MACDIARMID

Shawl (page 26) was inspired by the stark beauty of the moors as
they appear in another Gothic tale, Wuthering Heights.
But, you might be thinking, hold on. Why are you telling me all
of this? Sure, Gothic is certainly an aesthetic style. But this is a
knitting magazine. Where’s the gosh-darn knitting?
Don’t you worry, my friend. Gothic literature and knitting have
tangled together, too.
When women began writing in the Gothic genre, knitting found
its way into those texts. In Charlotte Bronte’s Jane Eyre (1847), the
titular character receives help and advice from Mr. Rochester’s
housekeeper, Mrs. Fairfax, who is almost never seen without her
knitting. When Jane later runs away from Thornfield Hall, she again
Author Horace Walpole’s manor, Strawberry Hill, embodies the encounters knitting in the home of her helpful cousins. By contrast,
spooky, ornate environs of the Gothic genre. her nasty cousin Eliza Reed is “stitching, with gold thread, the
border of a square crimson cloth” when Jane comes back to the
Reeds’ house after many years of absence. The perceived difference
during the Victorian period between knitting and other forms of
fiber craft was that of usefulness. Knitting was a necessity for the
lower-classes, when embroidery and other “fancy-work” were
reserved for upper-class ladies. The distinction for authors was
clear: If you want your reader to recognize a character’s moral
strength, set her up with some knitting needles.
Perhaps the most notable exhibit of knitting and Gothic, however,
comes from Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness (1899). The main
character, before departing down the Congo river, sees two women
knitting black wool. As he looks at the older of the two, “An eerie
feeling came over me. She seemed uncanny and fateful. Often far
away there I thought of these two, guarding the door of Darkness,
knitting black wool as for a warm pall, one introducing, introducing
continuously into the unknown, the other scrutinizing the cheery
and foolish faces with unconcerned old eyes.”
Gothic art has gone through many, many transformations through
the centuries, but throughout it all, there has been a balance of
light and darkness. From the soaring cathedrals meant to bring in
more natural light to the Gothic novel, where the main character—
often a woman—is threatened but always emerges victorious, Gothic
traditions present us with an important balance between the familiar
and the uncanny, the light and the dark. Many of the pieces in this
issue explore that balance: Lucy Westenra’s Wrap (page 22) by
designer Susanna IC is a stunningly lacy wrap interspersed with
glinting beads, giving weight to an otherwise airy design.
As you peruse these pages, let us take you into the realm of the
uncanny. Let your craft become mysterious once more and explore
the uncharted—or, in the case of Kristen Jancuk’s Vaulted Swoncho
(page 25), meticulously charted—waters of these Gothic knits.

JULIA PILLARD is the assistant editor for the Interweave


Yarn Group. She received her master’s degree in English
literature in 2018. Since then, she has published a number of
short stories and poems—some Gothic, some less so. Julia
lives in Colorado with her husband, her very sweet dog, and a
Jennifer Miller Comstock’s Thrushcross Shawl (page 26) was inspired large collection of both books and yarn.
by the classic Gothic novel Wuthering Heights.

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Victorian Gothic
These 13 knitwear designs include cabled
sweaters, dramatic shawls, and delicate mitts
in rich and haunting colorways inspired by the
Victorian Gothic aesthetic and updated for a
modern wardrobe.

DORIAN GRAY’S PULLOVER


MELANIE ASATO
Simple, elegant details make up Dorian Gray’s
Pullover. Worked in the round from the bottom up,
this romantic pullover features a V-shape on the front
neck composed of traveling cables, slipped stitches,
and eyelets, as well as wide bell sleeves left open
from the elbows down.
YARN Ancient Arts Fibre Crafts Socknado
PATTERN page 40

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CHRISTABEL’S SHAWL
LANA JOIS
Christabel’s Shawl is worked from the top down in five
wedges to create a semicircular shape. The eyelet and
cable patterns play together cleverly on this drapey,
wide-wingspan shawl.
YARN The Yarn Collective Bloomsbury DK, distributed by
LoveCrafts
PATTERN page 43

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CARMILLA’S MITTS
ELIZABETH LUBOWITZ
Carmilla’s Mitts were designed with the rib vaults and arches
of a cathedral interior in mind. These mitts are worked in the
round from the bottom up and feature gorgeous lace cuffs
that transition into the stranded-colorwork pattern.
YARN Knit Picks Stroll and Knit Picks Stroll Hand Painted
PATTERN page 46

WINTER 2021 14
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MARY SHELLEY’S SHAWL
RENATE KAMM
Mary Shelley’s Shawl combines two different yarn textures, with
a strand of each yarn held together throughout. Worked back
and forth from the bottom up, the focal point of this dramatic
shawl is the large garter-stitch cable in the center. On each
side, the repeating pattern of multiple increases and decreases
creates highly textural peaks and valleys.
YARN Sugar Bush Yarns Itty-Bitty and Sugar Bush Yarns Drizzle
PATTERN page 50

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ADELINE’S CARDIGAN
LINDA MARVENG
Adeline’s Cardigan is a stunning feast for the eyes. The
generous peplum is worked sideways in three pieces. Stitches
are picked up from the top of the peplum, and the back and
fronts are worked separately from the bottom up. Captivating
cables abound in this piece for the adventurous knitter.
YARN Manos del Uruguay Alegría Grande, distributed by
Fairmount Fibers
PATTERN page 54

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SUBLIME MITTS
KATE SCALZO
The Sublime Mitts are worked in the round from the cuff
to the fingers, with a pretty cable and lace pattern on the
forearm. The generous ruffle is added by picking up stitches
around the wrist. These elegant fingerless mitts make a great
conversation piece.
YARN Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Fingering
PATTERN page 59

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LUCY WESTENRA’S WRAP
SUSANNA IC
Inspired by architecture of Gothic cathedrals, Lucy Westenra’s
Wrap features an engaging beaded-lace motif throughout.
This wrap is worked in two identical halves and grafted in the
lace pattern at the center.
YARN Madelinetosh Tosh Sock
PATTERN page 61

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VAULTED SWONCHO
KRISTEN JANCUK
The chevrons and ribbing in the Vaulted Swoncho were
inspired by towering spires and rib vaults of Gothic
architecture. Worked in the round from the top down,
this swoncho is perfect for layering and cozying up as
the weather gets colder.
YARN Harrisville Designs flyWHEEL
PATTERN page 64

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THRUSHCROSS SHAWL
JENNIFER MILLER COMSTOCK
The dreamy Thrushcross Shawl is a hybrid of a top-down
triangle and a semicircular “pi” shawl. It is worked back and
forth from the neck down and outward, beginning with a
garter-tab cast-on. The sparkly Lurex in this yarn truly makes
this shawl a star.
YARN Wonderland Yarns Unicorn
PATTERN page 66

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WHITBY COWL & HOOD
ESTEFANIA ESPINDOLA
The unique Whitby Cowl & Hood features decorative cables
on the front yoke and is light enough to wear under a coat or
jacket. Functioning somewhat like a dickey, but much more
fashionable, the sides of the body are open. This garment is
worked back and forth in two pieces from the bottom up and
seamed at the shoulders.
YARN Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted
PATTERN page 68

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ST. MACHAR WRAP
FIONA MUNRO
The details in the gorgeous St. Machar Wrap were inspired
by the architecture of the cathedral of the same name in
the designer’s town of Aberdeen, Scotland. (Read about her
inspiration in this issue’s Ravelings, page 80.) Framed on four
sides by garter stitch, this wrap is worked back and forth from
one end to the other in two colors.
YARN Blue Sky Fibers Baby Alpaca
PATTERN page 71

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MISS EYRE’S CAPE
DONNA ESTIN
The cables of the unique Miss Eyre’s Cape are meant to
mimic medieval aesthetics. This cape is worked side to side,
then stitches are picked up along one edge for the yoke.
Wear this cape open more like a shawl or make it cozy by
buttoning up.
YARN Green Mountain Spinnery Mewesic
PATTERN page 72

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GHOSTLY MITTS
JENNIFER MILLER COMSTOCK
The Ghostly Mitts stay in place thanks to the loop worn
on the middle finger. These mitts are worked back and
forth from the cuff up to the pointed tip. The mohair/silk
blend yarn has a slight halo that gives these mitts their
ghostly aura.
YARN Shibui Knits Silk Cloud
PATTERN page 76

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CONTROLLING LADDERS

CONTROLLING
LADDERS
WHEN WORKING CABLES
BY DONNA ESTIN

C
ables are one of the most impressive design elements in
handknitting. The raised stitches of a cable pattern cross
and intertwine in intriguing ways, making the knitting
look incredibly complex (even though cables are not that
difficult to knit). However, while the cables themselves are the
primary focus of the design, the background stitches are equally
important because they provide a platform on which to display and
accentuate the cabled stitches. Cables can be worked over a back-
ground of stockinette stitch or a textured stitch pattern such as moss
stitch. More often than not, however, cables are worked on a back-
ground of reverse stockinette stitch so they will really stand out.
But the relationship between the cables and the reverse stockinette
background stitches can sometimes be problematic. One of the most
common problems is the appearance of ladders between the cable
stitches and the adjacent background stitches. These ladders detract
from the gorgeousness of the cables and can even affect the gauge.
In this article, we’ll talk about how ladders are formed when working
cable patterns and ways to avoid them (or fix them after the fact).

WHAT IS A LADDER?

A ladder is a vertical column of running threads—the horizontal


strands that connect stitches to each other—that have been elongated
in some way so that there is a space between the two stitches that
are connected by the running thread. Ladders can sometimes be
intentional. For example, when working drop-stitch patterns, a stitch
is dropped from the needle and raveled down to create a gap that
is spanned by the running threads that connect the stitches on either
side of the dropped stitch. But most ladders are unintentional and
should be avoided because they can make a garment look less
polished. For example, ladders can appear between groups of stitches
on separate double-pointed needles when you’re working in the
round because of the greater distance that the working yarn has to
travel from the last stitch on one needle to the first stitch on the
next needle.
Miss Eyre’s Cape, Ladders can also appear when going from knit stitches to purl
pattern page 72. stitches because more yarn is used than when going from knit
stitches to knit stitches. When a knit stitch is followed by a purl

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CONTROLLING LADDERS WHEN WORKING CABLES

stitch, the yarn goes from the back of the


work after the knit stitch is complete to the
front of the work and then counterclockwise
around the right needle before completing
the purl stitch (Figure 1). The extra yarn
between the stitches either works its way
back into the preceding knit stitch—making
the stitch larger than the other stitches—or
creates an elongated running thread
between the stitches (Figure 2). (And the
FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2
effect is even more noticeable if the purl
stitch is worked too loosely.) You often see
this with ribbing, and it’s why seed stitch
can have holes or look uneven. It’s also the
reason why a ladder may appear in a cable
pattern where the last column of knit stitches
on the cable meets the first column of purl
stitches on the background (Photo 1).
The slack in forming the purl stitch can
happen each time you change from a knit
stitch to a purl stitch (which is why the
ladder appears on the left side of the cable
and not the right), but the stretching is more
exaggerated on the rows where you’re cross-
ing the cable stitches because the act of
crossing one group of stitches in front of or
behind another group draws in the extra
yarn from the background stitches and
extends the running threads even more,
leaving gaps.
The ladder on the left side of the cable
also skews the cable to the right and makes
the reverse stockinette stitch panel on the
left wider than the one on the right. This
not only creates a messy, asymmetrical cable
pattern, but it also has an effect on the
gauge.

LADDERS CHANGE GAUGE PHOTO 1

Ladders can change the stitch gauge of a


fabric and make a garment wider than
intended. Notice, for example, the width
difference between the two swatches in
Photo 2. Both swatches have the same
number of stitches, but the swatch on the
right (with no ladder) is narrower and the
cable is centered. By contrast, the swatch
on the left (with the ladder) has a cable that
is off-center and the reverse stockinette
stitch panel on the left side of the cable is
wider than the panel on the right. The extra
width in one panel may not seem like a lot,
but if you are working multiple cables across
the width of a garment, the small difference
in each cable repeat can add as much as
7½" across a 20" back (or 15" to the total
circumference).
PHOTO 2

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CONTROLLING LADDERS WHEN WORKING CABLES

PREVENTING LADDERS

There are a few different methods for preventing ladders in cable


patterns, and they all involve taking up the slack in the purl stitch
that comes immediately after the cable. Here are four common
methods:

METHOD 1
After knitting the last stitch of the cable, bring the yarn forward
and pull downward rather snugly before purling the next purl stitch.

METHOD 2
After knitting the last stitch of the cable, bring the yarn to the front
and insert the right needle tip into the next stitch to begin working
PHOTO 3
the purl stitch, then give the yarn a firm tug before continuing with
the purl stitch.

METHOD 3
Instead of wrapping the yarn counterclockwise around the right
needle when working the purl stitch, wrap the yarn clockwise
(Photo 3), which won’t add quite as much yarn between the knit
stitch and the purl stitch. This technique is very effective and will
tighten up the stitch even if you’re a loose knitter. But make sure to
knit the stitch through the back loop on the next row to prevent it
from being twisted.

METHOD 4
Work the first two or three purl stitches after the cable close to the
needle tips, where the diameter of the needle is smaller so that the
stitches will be smaller.

When I’m working cables, I usually use a combination of these PHOTO 4


four methods. For example, I work at the needle tips, pull the yarn
downward, and tug a bit. If I’m working a large cable, such as a
10- or 12-stitch cable, I will use the third method, wrapping the
yarn around the needle clockwise.

FIXING LADDERS AFTER THE FACT

If you notice ladders after you’ve finished knitting, you can minimize
their appearance by using a tapestry needle or fine knitting needle
and pulling up the slack on the ladder, then working the excess
yarn back into the knit stitches on the cable (Photos 4 and 5).
As you pull up on each stitch, the slack in the looser purl stitches
will move to the tighter cable stitches and the stitch size will even
out. Blocking the garment after making this adjustment will help
to “set” the stitches. This time-consuming process should be used
only as a last resort. It’s far better to avoid the ladders in the first
place. But things happen, and if you find yourself staring at ugly PHOTO 5
ladders on a finished piece, just know that you can fix them at
this point. DONNA ESTIN is a Certified Master Knitter who lives and
By controlling ladders, your cables will look more uniform and designs in Maryland on the Chesapeake Bay. She currently
professional, the background stitches will remain in the background, serves on the board of directors for The Knitting Guild
and you will have better luck staying on gauge. Just remember: Pull Association as vice president of public relations. She loves
the yarn downward, give it a little tug, work at the needle tips, and, sailing, knitting, dogs, and designing women’s sweaters. Find
if necessary, wrap the yarn clockwise. her designs on www.DonnaEstinDesigns.com.

WINTER 2021 38 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


delicate wash

because what you create,


deserves the best care

EUCALAN.COM

THE SPA TREATMENT FOR YOUR FINE WASHABLES

WINTER 2021 39 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


this case, continue the diagonals as rows—101 (115, 127, 135, 147, 161,
established. 169, 181) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K1,
ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog,
BODY k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep dec row every
With smaller, longer cir needle, CO 220 RS row 4 (7, 8, 9, 11, 14, 17, 19) more
(248, 272, 296, 320, 348, 372, 396) times—91 (99, 109, 115, 123, 131,
sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the 133, 141) sts rem. Work even until
rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for 1½". Change armhole measures 4 (4¼, 4¾, 5¼, 5¾, 5,
to larger, longer cir needle. Work in St 5¼, 6)", ending with a WS row. Shape
st until piece measures 8½ (8½, 8¾, 9, neck: Next row (RS) Work 37 (41, 45,
9½, 9½, 9¾, 10)" from CO. Set-up rnd 47, 51, 55, 56, 59) sts and place these
K43 (50, 56, 62, 68, 75, 81, 87), pm for sts on holder for left front, BO 17 (17,
chart, work Front V chart over 11 sts, k1 19, 21, 21, 21, 21, 23) sts, work to
and place removable m to mark this st as end—37 (41, 45, 47, 51, 55, 56, 59) sts
center st, cont chart over 11 sts, pm for rem for right front. Right front: Dec
DORIAN GRAY’S chart, knit to end. Cont in patt through row (WS) Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssp,
PULLOVER Row 20 of chart, then rep Rows 21–40 p1—1 st dec’d. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk,
MELANIE ASATO of chart as needed to shoulder, working work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep
Row 21 as foll: (see Notes) last 2 rows 8 (10, 11, 11, 13, 15, 15, 16)
Difficulty Level Row 21 Knit to 10 sts before chart m, more times, then work WS dec row once
Yarn Weight 1 pm for chart (remove old chart m when more—18 (18, 20, 22, 22, 22, 23, 24) sts
Finished Size 33¾ (38¼, 41¾, 45½, 49¼, you come to it), work in patt to last chart rem. Work even until armhole measures
53½, 57¼, 61)" circumference at under- m, remove m, cont in patt for 10 more 6½ (6¾, 7½, 8, 9, 9, 9½, 10)", ending
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

arm. Pullover shown measures 38¼"; sts, pm for chart, knit to end. with a WS row. Place sts on holder.
modeled with 7¼" of positive ease. At the same time, cont in patt until Left front: Return 37 (41, 45, 47, 51,
Yarn Ancient Arts Fibre Crafts piece measures 12½" from CO, ending 55, 56, 59) left front sts to needle and,
Socknado (80% superwash fine Merino with an even-numbered chart row. with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Dec row
wool, 20% nylon; 385 yd [352 m]/3½ oz Divide for front and back: Place last (WS) P1, p2tog, work to end—1 st dec’d.
[100 g]): Chocolate Lab, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 111 (125, 137, 149, 161, 175, 187, 199) Dec row (RS) Work to last 3 sts, k2tog,
7, 7) skeins. sts worked on holder for back—109 (123, k1—1 st dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 8 (10,
Needles Sizes 2 (2.75 mm) and 4 135, 147, 159, 173, 185, 197) sts rem for 11, 11, 13, 15, 15, 16) more times, then
(3.5 mm): 16" and 24 –32" circular (cir), front. work WS dec row once more—18 (18, 20,
depending on size you are making. 22, 22, 22, 23, 24) sts rem. Work even
Adjust needle size if necessary to FRONT until armhole measures 6½ (6¾, 7½,
obtain the correct gauge. Shape armholes: Cont in patt, BO 4 8, 9, 9, 9½, 10)", ending with a WS row.
Notions Markers (m); cable needle (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts at beg of next 2 Place sts on holder.
(cn); stitch holders; tapestry needle.
Gauge 26 sts and 37 rnds = 4" in St st
on larger needle. D E
F

? For techniques you don’t know,


please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
C
G
/knitting-glossary.
BODY
NOTES B
• The body of this pullover is worked
in the round from the lower edge to
the underarm, then the front and
back are worked separately back and
forth. After the shoulders are joined, A
sleeve stitches are picked up and the
sleeves are worked in the round from
the top down to the elbows, then the A: 33¾ (38¼, 41¾, 45½, 49¼, 53½, 57¼, 61)"
sleeves are worked back and forth. B: 12½"
• For some sizes, it will not be pos-
sible to continue to shift the chart
C: 6½ (6¾, 7½, 8, 9, 9, 9½, 10)"
D: 2¾ (2¾, 3, 3½, 3½, 3½, 3½, 3¾)"
markers all the way to the shoulder E: 8½ (9¾, 10½, 11, 12¼, 13½, 13½, 14¼)"
because there will not be enough F: 11½ (12, 12, 12½, 12½, 13, 13, 13¼)"
stitches outside of the markers. In G: 14½ (15, 16¼, 17½, 19½, 19½, 20, 21¼)"

WINTER 2021 40 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


FRONT V 10-st rep 10-st rep

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21 *

19

17

15

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
13

11

* Work as given in directions center st

k on RS; p on WS

yo

k2tog

ssk

sl 1 pwise wyb on RS; sl 1 pwise wyf on WS

pattern repeat

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, k1 from cn

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, k1 from cn

WINTER 2021 41 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Shape cap: Next rnd K11 (15, 18,
19, 22, 22, 23, 23), pm, k20 (17, 17, 19,
20, 20, 20, 22), pm, k32 (34, 36, 38, 42,
42, 44, 48), pm, k20 (17, 17, 19, 20, 20,
20, 22), pm, knit to end. Shape cap using
short-rows as foll:
Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to 3rd m, sl m,
wrap next st, turn.
Short-row 2 (WS) Sl m, purl to m, sl m,
wrap next st, turn.
Short-row 3 Knit to wrapped st, knit
wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st,
turn.
Short-row 4 Purl to wrapped st, purl
wrap tog with wrapped st, wrap next st,
turn.
Rep last 2 short-rows 18 (15, 15, 17, 18,
18, 18, 20) more times—last wrapped
st is st before m. Next short-row (RS)
Knit to end, working wrap tog with
wrapped st. Knit 1 rnd, removing all
m (except beg-of-rnd m) and working
wrap tog with wrapped st. Cont in St
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

st until piece measures 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9,


9, 9½)" from underarm. Next rnd P4,
knit to last 4 sts, p4. Knit 1 rnd. Rep
last 2 rnds 2 more times. Beg working
back and forth (see Notes). Next row
(WS) K4, purl to last 4 sts, k4. Next row
(RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until piece
measures 11 (11½, 11½, 12, 12, 12½,
12½, 12¾)" from underarm, ending with
a RS row. Knit 5 rows. With RS facing,
BO all sts.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
Neckband: With smaller 16" cir needle
and RS facing, beg at center of back
BACK times—18 (18, 20, 22, 22, 22, 23, 24) sts neck, pick up and knit 36 (37, 41, 44,
Return 111 (125, 137, 149, 161, 175, rem. Work even until armhole measures 44, 45, 45, 46) sts along back neck
187, 199) back sts to needle and, with 6½ (6¾, 7½, 8, 9, 9, 9½, 10)", ending edge, 71 (74, 82, 88, 88, 90, 90, 92) sts
RS facing, rejoin yarn. BO 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 7, with a WS row. Place sts on holder. along front neck edge, and 37 (37, 41,
9, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows—101 (115, Right back: Return 21 (21, 23, 25, 25, 44, 44, 45, 45, 46) sts along back neck
127, 135, 147, 161, 169, 181) sts rem. 25, 26, 27) sts to needle and, with WS edge—144 (148, 164, 176, 176, 180,
Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row. 180, 184) sts total. Pm and join in the
k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep dec row Dec row (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for 1". Loosely
every RS row 4 (7, 8, 9, 11, 14, 17, 19) k1—1 st dec’d. Rep dec row every RS row BO all sts in patt.
more times—91 (99, 109, 115, 123, 2 more times—18 (18, 20, 22, 22, 22,
131, 133, 141) sts rem. Work even until 23, 24) sts rem. Work even until armhole MELANIE ASATO is a knitwear
armhole measures 5½ (5¾, 6½, 7, 8, 8, measures 6½ (6¾, 7½, 8, 9, 9, 9½, 10)", designer who finds inspiration in
8½, 9)", ending with a WS row. Shape ending with a WS row. With RS tog, join everyday life and enjoys intertwining
neck: Next row (RS) K21 (21, 23, 25, shoulders using three-needle BO. functionality with beautiful design.
25, 25, 26, 27) and place these sts on She loves all things knitting, and, after
holder for right back, BO 49 (57, 63, 65, SLEEVES years of writing patterns for herself,
73, 81, 81, 87) sts, knit to end—21 (21, With larger 16" cir needle and RS facing, she recently made the leap to get her
23, 25, 25, 25, 26, 27) sts rem for left beg at center of underarm, pick up patterns out into the knitting world. In
back. Left back: Work 1 WS row. Dec and knit 94 (98, 106, 114, 126, 126, addition to knitting, she loves to spin,
row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to end—1 st 130, 138) sts evenly spaced around weave tapestries, and read.
dec’d. Rep dec row every RS row 2 more armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd.

WINTER 2021 42 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


SET-UP

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17
CHRISTABEL’S SHAWL
LANA JOIS 15

13
Difficulty Level
Yarn Weight 3 11
Finished Size 60" wide and 26" deep.
9
Yarn The Yarn Collective Blooms-
bury DK (100% Merino wool; 7 k on RS; p on WS

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
263 yd [240 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): #107
Moss, 3 skeins. Yarn distributed by 5
p on RS; k on WS
LoveCrafts.
3
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm): 32" circular yo
(cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to 1
obtain the correct gauge. k2tog
Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn); 7-st to 23-st rep
tapestry needle. pattern repeat
Gauge 17 sts and 22 rows = 4" in body
patt. marker position

? For techniques you don’t know,


please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in
back, k2, k2 from cn

/knitting-glossary.

NOTES
• This semicircular shawl is worked
from the top down in five wedges,
each with increases along one edge
(5 stitches are increased every right-
side row, one stitch per wedge).
• When working the Body and Border
charts, work each wedge between
the marker lines, and work the
12-stitch repeat as many times as
needed for each wedge
• A circular needle is used to accom-
modate the large number of stitches.

SHAWL
CO 1 st. Next row (RS) (K1, yo, k1)
in same st—3 sts. Next row (WS)
K3. Next row (RS) [K1, yo] 2 times,
k1—5 sts. Next row (WS) K1, [(k1, yo,
k1) in same st, k1] 2 times—9 sts. Next
row (RS) K2, place marker (pm), [yo,

WINTER 2021 43 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


BODY

47

45

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

21

19

17

15

13

11

7 k on RS; p on WS

5 p on RS; k on WS

3
yo
1
k2tog
12-st rep
pattern repeat

BORDER marker position

15 sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in


back, k2, k2 from cn
13

11

12-st rep

WINTER 2021 44 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Mountain
Mohair

durable woolen
spun yarns

h arr risv
r isv
ri svil
ill llee .c
ille . om
m

spinnery.com

www.signaturenedlearts.com

WINTER 2021 45 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


k1, pm] 5 times, k2—14 sts. Next row Knit Picks Stroll Hand Painted
K2, p10, k2. Inc row (RS) K2, sl m, *yo, (75% superwash Merino wool,
knit to m, sl m; rep from * to last 2 sts, 25% nylon; 462 yd [422 m]/3½ oz
k2—5 sts inc’d. Next row K2, purl to [100 g]): #28270 Taffeta (CC), 1 skein.
last 2 sts, k2. Rep last 2 rows 4 more Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm). Adjust
times—39 sts; 7 sts between m. Work needle size if necessary to obtain the
Rows 1–32 of Set-up chart—119 sts; correct gauge.
23 sts between m. Work Rows 1–48 of Notions Markers (m); waste yarn to
Body chart—239 sts; 47 sts between be used as a stitch holder; tapestry
m. Work Rows 1–42 of Body chart once needle.
more—344 sts; 68 sts between m. Work Gauge 33 sts and 30 rnds = 4" in
Rows 1–15 of Border chart—384 sts; colorwork patt.
76 sts between m. With WS facing,
BO all sts as foll: P2, remove m, transfer
2 sts to left needle, p2tog, *[(p1, transfer
2 sts to left needle, p2tog) 11 times, CARMILLA’S MITTS
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
transfer 1 st to left needle, using the ELIZABETH LUBOWITZ /knitting-glossary.
cable method, CO 3 sts, BO 4 sts]
6 times, [p1, transfer 2 sts to left needle, Difficulty Level NOTES
p2tog] 4 times, remove m; rep from *
4 more times, [p1, transfer 2 sts to left
Yarn Weight 1
Finished Size 6½ (7¼, 8)" hand circum-
• These mitts are worked in the round
from the bottom up.
needle, p2tog] 2 times. Fasten off last st. ference and 8¼ (8¾, 9)" long. Mitts
shown measure 7¼". MITTS
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

FINISHING Yarn Knit Picks Stroll (75% superwash Cuff: With MC, CO 48 (60, 60) sts. Place
Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Merino wool, 25% nylon; 231 yd marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Knit 1
[211 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #23701 Black rnd. Work Rows 1–3 of Lace chart once,
LANA JOIS loves to knit! She is (MC), 1 ball. then work Rows 4–15 of chart 2 times,
happiest when knitting lace but is working Row 15 of chart as foll:
always experimenting with technique
and construction. Her work has
appeared in Interweave Knits, knitscene,
and Twist Collective. Find her on Ravelry LACE
as Lana Jois.
15 *

13

11

1
12-st rep
* Work as given in directions

knit with MC MR M1R with MC

yo with MC ML M1L with MC

k2tog with MC no stitch

ssk with MC pattern repeat

with MC, sl 2 as
if to k2tog, k1, p2sso

WINTER 2021 46 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


HAND, SIZE 6½" HAND, SIZE 7¼"

35 39

33 37

31 35

29 33

27 31

25 29

23 27

21 25

19 23

17 21

WINTER 2021
15 19

47
13 17

11 15

9 13

7 11

5 9

WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM
3 7

1 5

12-st rep 3

12-st rep

knit with MC MR M1R with MC MR M1R with CC

knit with CC ML M1L with MC ML M1L with CC

pattern repeat

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
HAND, SIZE 8" knit with MC MR M1R with MC MR M1R with CC

41 knit with CC ML M1L with MC ML M1L with CC


39
yo with MC ssk with MC pattern repeat
37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

13

11

12-st rep

Row 15 Remove m, transfer last st of 3 (0, 3) sts, CO 2 (0, 2) sts, BO 5 (0, 5) sts.
Rnd 14 to left needle, pm for new beg of Fasten off last st.
rnd, work to end of rnd.
After chart is complete, cont as foll: THUMB
Sizes 6½ (8)" only: Return 20 (22, 24) held thumb sts to
Next rnd K4 (5), *M1, k8 (10); rep from needles. Pm and join in the rnd. With
* to last 4 (5) sts, M1, k4 (5)—54 (66) sts. MC, knit 1 rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 4
Size 7¼" only: rnds. BO all sts in patt.
Knit 1 rnd.
All sizes: FINISHING
Work Rows 1–26 (1–30, 1–32) of Hand Weave in ends, closing any holes at base
chart for your size—74 (82, 90) sts. of thumb. Block.
Next rnd Place first 20 (22, 24) sts on
waste yarn holder for thumb, cont in patt ELIZABETH LUBOWITZ is a software
to end—54 (60, 66) sts rem. Work in administrator from Toronto, Canada.
patt to end of chart. Break CC and cont She focuses primarily on accessories
with MC only. Knit 1 rnd. Work in k1, that pack a punch during a cold
p1 rib for 4 rnds. Picot BO: BO 3 (0, 3) Canadian winter, and she specializes
sts, transfer 1 (0, 1) st rem from BO to in stranded colorwork with charming
left needle, *using the cable method, motifs as well as small but mighty cable
CO 2 sts, BO 8 sts, transfer st rem from patterns.
BO to left needle; rep from * to last

WINTER 2021 48 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Colorblend Cloche
by Charisa Martin Cairn
Jamieson’s Spindrift

simply shetland
Exclusive North American distributor of
Jamieson’s Sheltand wools

TM Visit simplyshetland.com to find a retailer near you.

Enjoy
Ready for the Winter Cold?
Learn to knit your own Gusset Socks

200 +
with Cecilia Lee’s e-book.

FREE
knitting
patterns at
The e-book is available in both the
Projects are included in Apple Bookstore and Amazon Kindle.
the 7 Free Knitted Cowl https://books.apple.com/us/
Lost Art of the Gusset Sock: Addendum
Learning to Knit, Includes 6 Adult Sock
Patterns for Women book/lost-art-of-the-gusset-sock/
id1461705044?itsct=books_tool-
Knitting Patterns - Kindle edition by Lee,
Cecilia. Crafts, Hobbies & Home Kindle
eBook box&itscg=30200&ls=1
eBooks @ Amazon.com.

WINTER 2021 49 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


27

sl 13 sts pwise wyb, k3tog, p13sso—15 sts dec’d

sl 14 sts pwise wyb, k3tog, p14sso—16 sts dec’d


2

25

pattern repeat

sl 9 sts onto cn, hold in back, k9, k9 from cn


2
2

23
2
2

21

k1f&b
2
2

19

yo
2
2

17
2
2

15
17

2
2
2

13
2
2

k on RS; p on WS
11
2
2
2

no stitch
k on WS
MARY SHELLEY’S
SHAWL
RENATE KAMM

Difficulty Level
Yarn Weight 1
Finished Size 92" wide and 43½" tall.

16

17
9
Yarn Sugar Bush Yarns Itty-Bitty
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

7
(65% fine superwash Merino wool,

2
25% nylon, 10% cashmere; 153 yd

5
2
[140 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #5012 Slate,

3
16 balls.

2
2

1
Sugar Bush Yarns Drizzle (76% super

4 sts to 60 sts
kid mohair, 24% silk; 219 yd [200 m]/7⁄8 oz

2
2
[25 g]): #8020 Stormy Sky, 11 balls.
Needles Size 6 (4 mm): 47" circular
(cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to

2
obtain the correct gauge.
2
2
Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn);
2

tapestry needle.
2
2

Gauge 18–34 sts and 32 rows = 4" in


2

Right of Center patt with 1 strand of


2
2

each yarn held tog.


2

? For techniques you don’t know,


please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go SHAWL
/knitting-glossary. With one strand of each yarn held tog
(see Notes), CO 4 sts. Work Rows 1–28
NOTES of Set-up chart—60 sts. Next row
• This shawl is worked back and forth
in rows from the bottom up.
(RS) Work Right Edge chart over 3 sts
(inc’d to 4 sts), place marker (pm), work
• Work with one strand of each yarn
held together throughout.
Right of Center chart over 18 sts (inc’d
to 20 sts), pm, work Center Garter

2

A circular needle is used to accommo- Cable chart over 18 sts, pm, work Left
2
2

date the large number of stitches. of Center chart over 18 sts (inc’d to
2

20 sts), pm, work Left Edge chart over


2
2

3 sts (inc’d to 4 sts)—66 sts. Cont in


2
17

patt through Row 31 of charts—94 sts.


2
2

Next row (WS; Row 32 of charts)


2

Work 2 sts in patt (inc’d to 3 sts), pm,


2
2

work in patt to m, remove m, [work


2

in patt to m, sl m] 2 times, work in


2
2
SET-UP

patt to m, remove m, work in patt


2
2

to last 2 sts, pm, work 2 sts in patt


2

WINTER 2021 50 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


RIGHT OF CENTER RIGHT EDGE
2
16 2
17 31 31
2
2
29 29
2
2
27 27
2
2
25 25
2
2
23 23
2
2
21 21
2
2
19 19
2
2
17 17
2
16 2
17 15 15
2
2
13 13
2
2
11 11
2
2
9 9
2
2 CENTER GARTER CABLE

WINTER 2021
7 7
2
2
5

51
5 2 31
2
3 3
2 29
2
1 1
27
18-st to 34-st to 18-st rep 3 sts to 21 sts
25
23
21

WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
18 sts

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
31
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1

sl 13 sts pwise wyb, k3tog, p13sso—15 sts dec’d

sl 14 sts pwise wyb, k3tog, p14sso—16 sts dec’d

sl 9 sts onto cn, hold in back, k9, k9 from cn


17

18-st to 34-st to 18-st rep

pattern repeat
no stitch
LEFT OF CENTER

17
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

16

17
31
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
3 sts to 21 sts
2
2

k on RS; p on WS
2
2
2
2
16

k on WS
2

k1f&b
2
2

yo
2
2
2
2

2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2

(inc’d to 3 sts)—96 sts. Next row sts as foll: K1, *k1, insert left needle
2
16

Work Right Edge chart to m, sl m, work from left to right through both sts (as
2
2

Right of Center chart to m, sl m, work for ssk) and work them tog; rep from * to
2

Center Garter Cable chart to m, sl m, end. Fasten off last st.


2
LEFT EDGE

work Left of Center chart to m, sl m,


2

work Left Edge chart to end—102 sts. FINISHING


2
2

Cont in patt, shifting m on Row 32 of Weave in ends. Block to measurements.


2

charts as established, until Rows 1–32


2

of charts have been worked 9 times to- RENATE KAMM has been knitting for
tal—384 sts. Work Rows 1–30 of charts more than 50 years. Recently retired
once more—766 sts. Next row (RS) from her full-time job, she now has all
Knit to m, sl m, work in patt to m, sl m, the time she needs to share her love for
k18, sl m, work in patt to m, sl m, knit to knitting by creating garments with just a
end—446 sts rem. Knit 1 WS row. BO all touch of unusual.

WINTER 2021 52 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Designed to be enjoyed,

from casting on the first stitch

to wrapping yourself in the

finished object, these

10 sweaters and wraps


contain delightful visual

details for the eyes and

textures for the fingers.

TA KE A LO O K AT I NT ERWEAVE.C OM
Wool Studio Vol. IX is sponsored by:
Gauge 20 sts and 29 rows = 4" in Cuff Selvedge: (worked over 3 sts)
St st on larger needle; 16 st cable = Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, k1, sl 1 pwise
2¼" wide. wyf.
Row 2 (WS) K1, sl 1 pwise wyf, k1tbl.

? For techniques you don’t know,


please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

BACK PEPLUM
/knitting-glossary. With larger cir needle, CO 65 sts. Do not
join.
NOTES Sizes 34½ (37½, 52¼)" only:
• The cabled peplum of this cardigan
is worked sideways in pieces for the
Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k2, p4, k4, p4,
k2] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work Moss st
back and each front, then stitches (see Stitch Guide) over 2 sts, k1. Next
are picked up on the wrong side for row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, work 2 sts in
the moss-stitch peplum. Stitches are patt, p1tbl, p1, k3, [p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k2]
ADELINE’S CARDIGAN picked up along the opposite edge 3 times, p3.
LINDA MARVENG of the peplum for the back and each Sizes 40¾ (60¼)" only:
front, which are worked from the Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k2, p2, k2, p4,
Difficulty Level bottom up in pieces and seamed. The k2, p2, k2] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work
Yarn Weight 4 cabled cuff on the sleeve is worked Moss st (see Stitch Guide) over 2 sts, k1.
Finished Size 34½ (37½, 40¾, 44½, sideways, then stitches are picked up Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, work
48¼, 52¼, 56¼, 60¼)" circumference at along the cuff for the sleeve, which 2 sts in patt, p1tbl, p1, k3, [p2, k2, p2, k4,
underarm, buttoned. Cardigan shown ends in pleats. p2, k2, p2, k2] 3 times, p3.
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

measures 34½"; modeled with 3½" of Sizes 44½ (48¼, 56¼)" only:
positive ease. STITCH GUIDE Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k4, p2, k4, p2,
Yarn Manos del Uruguay Alegría Moss Stitch: (even number of sts) k4] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work Moss st
Grande (75% superwash Merino Row 1 (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to end. (see Stitch Guide) over 2 sts, k1. Next
wool, 25% nylon; 197 yd [180 m]/3½ oz Row 2 (WS) Rep Row 1. row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, work 2 sts in
[100 g]): #AG2058 Turmeric, 11 (12, 12, Row 3 (RS) *P1, k1; rep from * to end. patt, p1tbl, p1, k3, [p4, k2, p4, k2, p4,
13, 14, 15, 16, 17) skeins. Yarn distrib- Row 4 (WS) Rep Row 3. k2] 3 times, p3.
uted by Fairmount Fibers. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt. All sizes:
Needles Size 6 (4 mm): 24" circular Next row (RS) Work in rib to last 4 sts,
(cir). Size 5 (3.75 mm): straight. Adjust Moss Stitch: (odd number of sts) k1tbl, work 2 sts in patt, k1. Next row
needle size if necessary to obtain the Row 1 (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last Sl 1 pwise wyf, work 2 sts in patt, p1tbl,
correct gauge. st, k1. work in rib to end. Work 0 (0, 4, 4, 0, 4,
Notions Markers (m); cable needle Row 2 (WS) *P1, k1; rep from * to last 4, 6) more rows in patt. Next row (RS)
(cn); stitch holders; 2 spare double- st, p1. K3, [p2, place marker (pm), beg with
pointed needles (dpn) in size 6 (4 mm) Row 3 (RS) Rep Row 2. Row 21 (19, 17, 15, 9, 19, 15, 11), work
or smaller; 8 (8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10) Row 4 (WS) Rep Row 1. Cable chart over 16 sts, pm] 3 times, p3,
¾" buttons; tapestry needle. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt. k1, k1tbl, work 2 sts in patt, k1.

I J
Q A: 8"
H B: 14½ (16, 17½, 19½, 21½, 23½, 25½, 27½)"
K C: 8¼ (9, 9¾, 10¾, 11½, 12½, 13½, 14½)"
P G D: 16¾ (18¼, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30)"
D E: 12½"
F: 7¾"
M C G: 7½ (8, 8½, 8¾, 9¼, 9½, 10, 10¼)"
F
B H: ½"
O SLEEVE
I: 4¼ (4¼, 4¾, 5, 5½, 6, 5¾, 5¾)"
RIGHT J: 5¼ (6, 6, 6, 6¾, 6¾, 7½, 7½)"
FRONT K: 3¾ (3¾, 4¼, 4¼, 4¼, 4½, 4½, 4½)"
E &
L: 8½ (9¼, 9¼, 10, 10, 10, 10¾, 10¾)"
N BACK
M: 15¼ (16, 16¾, 17½, 18½, 20, 21½, 23¼)"
N: 3½"
L O: 15¼ (15¼, 15½, 15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16)"
A P: 5½ (5¾, 6¼, 6¾, 7, 7½, 7¾, 8¼)"
Q: 3¼ (3½, 3½, 4, 4, 4½, 4½, 4¾)"

WINTER 2021 54 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


CABLE

23

21 k on RS; p on WS
19
p on RS; k on WS
17
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn
15
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn
13
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2 from cn
11
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2 from cn
9
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, (p1, k1) from cn
7
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k1, p1, k2 from cn
5
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, (k1, p1) from cn
3
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k1, k2 from cn
1

16 sts

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, work Next row (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, work in 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 2,
2 sts in patt, p1tbl, p1, k3, [sl m, work Moss st to last st, k1. Cont in patt until 2, 2, 2, 2, 4) rows—88 (96, 104, 110,
in Cable patt to m, sl m, k2] 3 times, p3. piece measures 3¼" from pick-up row, 126, 136, 146, 148) sts rem. BO 2 (2, 2,
Cont in patt through Row 24 of chart, ending with Row 4. BO all sts in patt. 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts at beg of next 2 (2, 4, 2,
then work Rows 1–24 of chart 9 (9, 9, 9, 2, 4, 6, 6) rows, then BO 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2,
10, 11, 11, 11) times, then work Rows 1 BACK 2, 2) st(s) at beg of foll 4 (8, 8, 4, 4, 4,
and 2 (1–4, 1–6, 1–8, 1–14, 1–4, 1–8, With larger cir needle and RS facing, 4, 4) rows—80 (84, 88, 96, 112, 116,
1–12) once more. working along long edge of back peplum 120, 122) sts rem. BO 1 st at beg of next
Sizes 34½ (37½, 52¼)" only: opposite moss st peplum, beg 8" from CO 0 (0, 0, 4, 6, 6, 6, 8) rows—80 (84, 88, 92,
Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k2, p4, k4, p4, edge, pick up and knit 90 (98, 106, 116, 106, 110, 114, 114) sts rem. Work even
k2] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work 2 sts in 132, 142, 152, 162) sts along long edge, until armhole measures 7 (7½, 8, 8¼, 8¾,
patt, k1. ending 8" from BO edge. Do not join. 9, 9½, 9¾)", ending with a RS row. Dec
Sizes 40¾ (60¼)" only: Purl 1 WS row. Next row (RS) K5 (7, row (WS) Work in patt to m, sl m, work
Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k2, p2, k2, p4, 9, 12, 13, 16, 19, 24), k1tbl, p2, *k1tbl, 2 (2, 2, 2, 0, 0, 0, 0) sts tog in patt, [work
k2, p2, k2] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work work Moss st over 7 (9, 11, 13, 11, 13, 4 (4, 4, 4, 2, 2, 2, 2) sts in patt, work 2 sts
2 sts in patt, k1. 15, 15) sts, k1tbl*, pm, p2, [beg with tog in patt] 9 (9, 9, 9, 6, 6, 6, 6) times,
Sizes 44½ (48¼, 56¼)" only: Row 3, work Cable chart over 16 sts, p2] [work 0 (0, 0, 0, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts in patt, work
Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, pm, rep from 0 (0, 0, 0, 2, 2, 2, 2) sts tog in patt] 0 (0, 0,
k4] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work 2 sts in * to * once, p2, k1tbl, k5 (7, 9, 12, 13, 16, 0, 10, 10, 10, 10) times, sl m, work in patt
patt, k1. 19, 24). Next row (WS) P5 (7, 9, 12, 13, to end—70 (74, 78, 82, 90, 94, 98, 98) sts
All sizes: 16, 19, 24), p1tbl, k2, *p1tbl, work Moss rem. Note: Work sts between m in rev St
Work 3 (3, 7, 7, 3, 7, 7, 9) more rows in st over 7 (9, 11, 13, 11, 13, 15, 15) sts, st to end. Shape neck: Next row (RS)
patt, ending with a WS row—piece mea- p1tbl*, sl m, [k2, work Cable chart over Work 22 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 30, 30) sts
sures about 31¾ (32¼, 34, 34½, 38¼, 40, 16 sts] 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, k2, sl in patt and place foll 48 (52, 54, 56, 62,
41, 42¾)" from CO. BO all sts in patt. m, rep from * to * once, k2, p1tbl, p5 (7, 64, 68, 68) sts on holder for neck and left
9, 12, 13, 16, 19, 24). Cont in patt until shoulder—22 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 30, 30)
BACK MOSS-STITCH PEPLUM piece measures 1½" from pick-up row, sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoul-
With larger cir needle and WS of back ending with a WS row. Shape waist: Inc der: Work 2 rows even. Shape shoulder
peplum facing, beg at BO end, work- row (RS) K2, M1R, work in patt to last using short-rows as foll:
ing into 5th st (st adjacent to twisted 2 sts, M1L, k2—2 sts inc’d. Rep inc row Short-row 1 (WS) Work in patt to last
st) along long side of peplum, pick up every 6th row 5 more times—102 (110, 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 10) sts, wrap next st,
and knit 168 (176, 184, 192, 204, 224, 118, 128, 144, 154, 164, 174) sts. Work turn.
224, 234) sts (about 3 sts for every 4 even until piece measures 7¾" from Short-row 2 (RS) Work in patt to end.
rows) along long edge, ending at CO end. pick-up row, ending with a WS row. Short-row 3 Work 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10,
Do not join. Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise Shape armholes: BO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) 10, 10) sts in patt, wrap next st, turn.
wyf, work Row 2 of Moss st to last st, k1. sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 (3, Short-row 4 Work in patt to end.

WINTER 2021 55 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Next row (WS) Work in patt to end, sts (about 3 sts for every 4 rows) along measures 7 (7½, 8, 8¼, 8¾, 9, 9½, 9¾)",
working wraps tog with wrapped sts. long edge, ending at CO end. Do not join. ending with a RS row. Dec row (WS)
Place sts on holder. With RS facing, Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, work Work in patt to m, sl m, *k2, work 2 sts
rejoin yarn to 48 (52, 54, 56, 62, Row 2 of Moss st to last st, k1. Next in patt, [work 2 sts tog in patt, work 3 sts
64, 68, 68) held sts. Next row (RS) row (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, work in Moss in patt] 2 times, work 2 sts tog in patt,
BO 26 (30, 30, 30, 34, 34, 38, 38) sts for st to last st, k1. Cont in patt until piece work 2 sts in patt; rep from * 0 (0, 0, 0, 1,
neck, work in patt to end—22 (22, 24, measures 3¼" from pick-up row, ending 1, 1, 1) more time, k2, sl m, work in patt
26, 28, 30, 30, 30) sts rem for left shoul- with Row 4. BO all sts in patt. to end—22 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 30, 30)
der. Left shoulder: Work 1 WS row. sts rem. Note: Work sts between m in
Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll: LEFT FRONT rev St st to end. Work 3 rows even. Shape
Short-row 1 (RS) Work in patt to last With larger cir needle and RS facing, shoulder using short-rows as for right
7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 10) sts, wrap next st, working along long edge of front peplum back shoulder. Place sts on holder.
turn. opposite moss st peplum, beg 8" from CO
Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to end. edge, pick up and knit 42 (46, 50, 55, 64, RIGHT FRONT
Short-row 3 Work 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 69, 74, 79) sts along long edge, ending With larger cir needle and RS facing,
10, 10) sts in patt, wrap next st, turn. ¾" from BO edge. Do not join. Purl 1 WS working along long edge of front peplum
Short-row 4 Work in patt to end. row. Next row (RS) K5 (7, 9, 12, 13, 16, opposite moss st peplum, beg ¾" from
Next row (RS) Work in patt to end, 19, 24), k1tbl, pm, p2, [beg with Row 3, CO edge, pick up and knit 42 (46, 50,
working wraps tog with wrapped sts. work Cable chart over 16 sts, p2] 1 (1, 55, 64, 69, 74, 79) sts along long edge,
Work 1 WS row. Place sts on holder. 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) time(s), pm, k1tbl, work ending 8" from BO edge. Do not join.
Moss st over 10 (12, 14, 16, 6, 8, 10, 10) Purl 1 WS row. Next row (RS) K1, k1tbl,
FRONT PEPLUMS (MAKE 2) sts, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, k1. Next row (WS) p2, k1tbl, work Moss st over 10 (12, 14,
Work as for back peplum until 4 rows of P1, p1tbl, k2, p1tbl, work Moss st over 16, 6, 8, 10, 10) sts, k1tbl, pm, p2, [beg
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

rib have been worked. Work 4 more rows 10 (12, 14, 16, 6, 8, 10, 10) sts, p1tbl, with Row 3, work Cable chart over 16 sts,
in rib as established. Next row (RS) K3, sl m, [k2, work Cable chart over 16 sts] p2] 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) time(s), pm,
[p2, pm, beg with Row 21 (19, 17, 15, 9, 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) time(s), k2, sl m, k1tbl, k5 (7, 9, 12, 13, 16, 19, 24). Next
19, 15, 11), work Cable chart over 16 sts, p1tbl, p5 (7, 9, 12, 13, 16, 19, 24). Cont in row (WS) P5 (7, 9, 12, 13, 16, 19, 24),
pm] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work 2 sts patt until piece measures 1½" from pick- p1tbl, sl m, [k2, work Cable chart over
in patt, k1. Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise up row, ending with a WS row. Shape 16 sts] 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) time(s), k2,
wyf, work 2 sts in patt, p1tbl, p1, k3, waist: Inc row (RS) K2, M1R, work in sl m, p1tbl, work Moss st over 10 (12,
[sl m, work in Cable patt to m, sl m, k2] patt to end—1 st inc’d. Rep inc row every 14, 16, 6, 8, 10, 10) sts, p1tbl, k2, p1tbl,
3 times, p3. Cont in patt through Row 24 6th row 5 more times—48 (52, 56, 61, p1. Cont in patt until piece measures
of chart, then work Rows 1–24 of chart 70, 75, 80, 85) sts. Work even until piece 1½" from pick-up row, ending with a
4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, then work measures 7¾" from pick-up row, ending WS row. Shape waist: Inc row (RS)
Rows 1 and 2 (1–4, 1–6, 1–8, 1–14, 1–4, with a WS row. Shape armhole: At beg Work in patt to last 2 sts, M1L, k2—1 st
1–8, 1–12) once more. of RS rows, BO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts inc’d. Rep inc row every 6th row 5 more
Sizes 34½ (37½, 52¼)" only: once, then BO 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts times—48 (52, 56, 61, 70, 75, 80, 85)
Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k2, p4, k4, p4, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2) time(s)—41 (45, 49, sts. Work even until piece measures
k2] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work 2 sts in 52, 61, 66, 71, 72) sts rem. Work 1 WS 7¾" from pick-up row, ending with a
patt, k1. row. At beg of RS rows, BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, RS row. Shape armhole: At beg of WS
Sizes 40¾ (60¼)" only: 3, 3) sts 1 (1, 2, 1, 1, 2, 3, 3) time(s), then rows, BO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts once,
Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k2, p2, k2, p4, BO 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s) 2 (4, 4, 2, 2, then BO 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts 1 (1, 1,
k2, p2, k2] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work 2, 2, 2) times—37 (39, 41, 45, 54, 56, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2) time(s)—41 (45, 49, 52, 61,
2 sts in patt, k1. 58, 59) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. At beg 66, 71, 72) sts rem. Work 1 RS row. At
Sizes 44½ (48¼, 56¼)" only: of RS rows, BO 1 st 0 (0, 0, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4) beg of WS rows, BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3)
Next row (RS) K3, [p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, times—37 (39, 41, 43, 51, 53, 55, 55) sts sts 1 (1, 2, 1, 1, 2, 3, 3) time(s), then
k4] 3 times, p3, k1, k1tbl, work 2 sts in rem. Work even until armhole measures BO 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s) 2 (4, 4, 2, 2,
patt, k1. 4¼ (4¾, 4¾, 5, 5½, 5½, 6, 6¼)", ending 2, 2, 2) times—37 (39, 41, 45, 54, 56,
All sizes: with a RS row. Shape neck: At beg of 58, 59) sts rem. Work 1 RS row. At beg
Work 7 more rows in rib as established— WS rows, BO 6 sts once, then BO 3 (3, of WS rows, BO 1 st 0 (0, 0, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4)
piece measures about 16¼ (16¾, 17½, 18, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts once—28 (30, 32, times—37 (39, 41, 43, 51, 53, 55, 55) sts
19½, 20¼, 21¼, 22¼)" from CO. BO all 34, 41, 43, 45, 45) sts rem. Work 1 RS rem. Work even until armhole measures
sts in patt. row. At beg of WS rows, BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 4¼ (4¾, 4¾, 5, 5½, 5½, 6, 6¼)", ending
3, 3, 3) sts 1 (2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1) time(s), with a WS row. Shape neck: At beg of
FRONT MOSS-STITCH PEPLUM then BO 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s) 1 (1, RS rows, BO 6 sts once, then BO 3 (3,
With larger cir needle and WS of front 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) time(s)—25 (25, 27, 29, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts once—28 (30, 32, 34,
peplum facing, beg at BO end, working 36, 38, 38, 38) sts rem. Work 1 RS row. 41, 43, 45, 45) sts rem. Work 1 WS row.
into 5th st (st adjacent to twisted st) At beg of WS rows, BO 1 st 0 (0, 0, 0, 2, At beg of RS rows, BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3,
along long side of peplum, pick up and 2, 2, 2) times—25 (25, 27, 29, 34, 36, 3, 3) sts 1 (2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1) time(s), then
knit 90 (94, 98, 102, 106, 114, 116, 122) 36, 36) sts rem. Work even until armhole BO 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s) 1 (1, 1, 1, 1,

WINTER 2021 56 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


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1, 2, 2) time(s)—25 (25, 27, 29, 36, 38, SLEEVES
38, 38) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. At beg With larger cir needle and RS facing,
of RS rows, BO 1 st 0 (0, 0, 0, 2, 2, 2, 2) working along long edge opposite Cuff
times—25 (25, 27, 29, 34, 36, 36, 36) sts Selvedge edge, pick up and knit 42 (46,
rem. Work even until armhole measures 46, 50, 50, 50, 54, 54) sts along long
7 (7½, 8, 8¼, 8¾, 9, 9½, 9¾)", ending with edge. Do not join. Purl 1 WS row. Inc
a RS row. Dec row (WS) Work in patt row (RS) K2, M1, knit to last 2 sts, M1,
to m, sl m, *k2, work 2 sts tog in patt, k2—2 sts inc’d. Working in St st, rep inc
[work 3 sts in patt, work 2 sts tog in patt] row every 4th row 14 more times, then
2 times, work 4 sts in patt; rep from * every RS row 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 10, 12, 16)
0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 1) more time, k2, sl m, times—76 (80, 84, 88, 92, 100, 108, 116)
work in patt to end—22 (22, 24, 26, 28, sts. Work even until piece measures
30, 30, 30) sts rem. Note: Work sts be- 15¼ (15¼, 15½, 15½, 15½, 16, 16, 16)"
tween m in rev St st to end. Work 2 rows from pick-up row, ending with a WS
even. Shape shoulder using short-rows as row. Shape cap: BO 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5)
for left back shoulder. Place sts on holder. sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 1 st
at beg of foll 4 (2, 6, 2, 6, 8, 8, 10) rows,
CUFFS then BO 2 sts at beg of foll 0 (0, 0, 0, 0,
With larger cir needle, CO 26 sts. Do not 0, 4, 4) rows—64 (70, 70, 76, 76, 82,
join. 82, 88) sts rem. Work even until cap
Sizes 34½ (37½, 40¾, 44½, measures 4¾ (5, 5½, 6, 6¼, 6¾, 7, 7½)",
48¼, 52¼)" only: ending with a WS row. BO 2 sts at beg of
Next row (RS) K3, p2, k2, p4, k4, p4, next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at beg of foll
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

k2, p2, work Cuff Selvedge (see Stitch 4 rows—48 (54, 54, 60, 60, 66, 66, 72)
Guide) over 3 sts. Next row (WS) Work sts rem. Pleats: Make 2 pleats facing
Cuff Selvedge over 3 sts, k2, p2, k4, p4, each other while working a three-needle
k4, p2, k2, p3. BO as foll: Sl 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12)
Sizes 56¼ (60¼)" only: sts onto 1 dpn, then sl foll 8 (9, 9, 10, 10,
Next row (RS) K3, p2, [k4, p2] 3 times, 11, 11, 12) sts onto another dpn, turn
work Cuff Selvedge (see Stitch Guide) 2nd dpn clockwise so that its purl side
over 3 sts. Next row (WS) Work Cuff rests against purl side of sts on first dpn
Selvedge over 3 sts, [k2, p4] 3 times, k2, (needles are WS tog), and position so
p3. that both dpn are in front of left needle,
All sizes: [k3tog (1 st from first dpn, 1 st from 2nd
Work 2 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 2, 2) more rows in dpn, and 1 st from left needle)] 2 times,
rib. Next row (RS) K3, p2, pm, beg with pass 2nd st over first to BO 1 st, [k3tog
Row 21 (21, 21, 21, 21, 21, 15, 15), work (1 st from first dpn, 1 st from 2nd dpn, needles and RS facing, beg at base of
Cable chart over 16 sts, pm, p2, work and 1 st from left needle), pass 2nd st left front neck shaping, pick up and knit
Cuff Selvedge over 3 sts. Next row (WS) over first to BO 1 st] 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10) 68 (70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sts evenly
Work Cuff Selvedge over 3 sts, k2, sl m, times (1 st rem on right needle), sl next spaced along center front edge, ending at
work in Cable patt to m, sl m, k2, p3. 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts onto 1 dpn, peplum. [Purl 1 row, knit 1 row] 2 times.
Cont in patt through Row 24 of chart, then sl foll 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) Knit 1 WS row. [Knit 1 row, purl 1 row]
then work Rows 1–24 two times, then sts onto another dpn, turn 2nd dpn 2 times. BO all sts. Buttonhole band:
work Rows 1–2 (1–2, 1–2, 1–2, 1–2, 1–2, counterclockwise so that its knit side With smaller needles and RS facing, beg
1–8, 1–8) once more. rests against knit side of sts on first dpn on right front above peplum, pick up and
Sizes 34½ (37½, 40¾, 44½, (needles are RS tog), and position so that knit 68 (70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sts
48¼, 52¼)" only: both dpn are behind left needle, [k3tog evenly spaced along center front edge,
Next row (RS) K3, p2, k2, p4, k4, p4, (1 st from left needle, 1 st from 2nd dpn, ending at base of neck shaping. Purl 1
k2, p2, work Cuff Selvedge over 3 sts. and 1 st from first dpn), pass 2nd st over WS row. Buttonhole row 1 (RS) K4 (5,
Next row (WS) Work Cuff Selvedge over first to BO 1 st] 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) 3, 4, 5, 2, 3, 4), [BO 2 sts, k6 (including
3 sts, k2, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k2, p3. times. Fasten off last st. st on right needle after BO)] 7 (7, 8, 8, 8,
Sizes 56¼ (60¼)" only: 9, 9, 9) times, BO 2 sts, k6 (7, 3, 4, 5, 2,
Next row (RS) K3, p2, [k4, p2] 3 times, FINISHING 3, 4) (including st on right needle after
work Cuff Selvedge over 3 sts. Next row Weave in ends. Block. With RS tog, join BO). Buttonhole row 2 (WS) *Purl to
(WS) Work Cuff Selvedge over 3 sts, [k2, shoulders using three-needle BO. Sew BO sts, turn work so RS is facing, using
p4] 3 times, k2, p3. sleeves into armholes, pulling pleats the cable method, CO 1 st, CO 1 more
All sizes: closer tog and sewing into place. Sew cuff st bringing yarn to front before placing
Work 2 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 2, 2) more rows in and sleeve seams. Sew selvedge edges of new st onto left needle, turn work so WS
rib—piece measures 8½ (9, 9, 9¾, 9¾, 9¾, front and back peplums tog, then sew is facing; rep from * 7 (7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9)
10¼, 10¼)" from CO. BO all sts in patt. side seams. Buttonband: With smaller more times, purl to end. Knit 2 rows.

WINTER 2021 58 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Rep 2 buttonhole rows. Work 2 rows in knit to end—62 sts.
St st. BO all sts. Fold each band to WS Both mitts:
along purl ridge and sew in place below Knit 3 rnds. Inc rnd Knit to 1 st
pick-up row. Sew selvedge edge of each before m, M1, k1, sl m, k1, M1, knit to
band to selvedge edge of peplum. Sew end—2 sts inc’d. Rep inc rnd every 4th
buttons to buttonband opposite but- rnd 8 more times—80 sts. Next rnd
tonholes. Collar: With smaller needles Knit to 10 sts before m, place next 20 sts
and RS facing, beg after buttonhole on holder for thumb, removing m, knit
band, pick up and knit 26 (28, 30, 32, to end—60 sts rem. Work in St st until
34, 36, 38, 40) sts along right front piece measures 4¼" from beg of gusset.
neck to shoulder, 6 sts to back neck BO, Work in k1, p1 rib for 10 rnds. BO all sts
26 (30, 30, 30, 34, 34, 38, 38) sts along in patt.
back neck BO, 6 sts to shoulder, and
26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts along THUMB
left front neck to buttonband—90 (98, With dpn and RS facing, pick up and knit
102, 106, 114, 118, 126, 130) sts total. SUBLIME MITTS 2 sts in crook of thumb, then k20 from
Next row (WS) Knit, dec 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, KATE SCALZO holder—22 sts total. Pm and join in the
0, 4, 4) sts evenly spaced—90 (98, 102, rnd. Knit 2 rnds. Work in k1, p1 rib for
106, 114, 118, 122, 126) sts rem. Change Difficulty Level 10 rnds. BO all sts in patt.
to larger cir needle. Next row (RS) Sl 1 Yarn Weight 1
pwise wyf, work in Moss st to last st, k1. Finished Size 7" palm circumfer- RUFFLE
Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, work in ence, 8" forearm circumference, and Lay mitt down with forearm opening
Moss st to last st, k1. Work 2 rows even 12½" long. closer to you and hand opening farther

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
in patt. Dec row (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, Yarn Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Fin- away from you. BO rnd should be facing
work sssk or sssp as needed to maintain gering (100% Peruvian highland wool; up. With dpn and RS facing, beg at
patt, work in patt to last 4 sts, k3tog 273 yd [250 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #8010 center of palm (above first st of chart),
or p3tog as needed to maintain patt, Natural, 2 skeins.
k1—4 sts dec’d. Rep dec row every 6 (4, Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): 16" circular
4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4)th row 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn).
more time(s)—82 (86, 90, 94, 102, 106, Adjust needle size if necessary to
110, 114) sts rem. Work 3 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, obtain the correct gauge.
1, 1) row(s) even. Turning ridge (RS) Sl Notions Markers (m); cable needle
1 pwise wyf, purl to last st, k1. Collar (cn); stitch holder; tapestry needle.
facing: Work 4 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) rows Gauge 40 sts and 54 rnds = 4" in
even in patt. Inc row (WS) Sl 1 pwise charted patt; 34 sts and 48 rnds = 4" in
wyf, M1 or M1P as needed to maintain St st.
patt, work in patt to last st, M1 or M1P
as needed to maintain patt, k1—2 sts
inc’d. Rep inc row every WS row 0 (2,
2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) more times, then every
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
4th row 2 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time(s), /knitting-glossary.
then every WS row 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2)
time(s)—90 (98, 102, 106, 114, 118, NOTES
122, 126) sts. BO all sts. Fold piece to
WS along turning ridge and sew in place
• These mitts are worked in the round
from the cuff to the hand.
below pick-up row.
MITTS
LINDA MARVENG is a Norwegian With dpn, CO 80 sts. Place marker (pm)
knitwear designer who loves to create and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for
feminine garments, especially with 10 rnds. Work Rows 1–90 of Lace chart,
cables or lace. She worked for Rowan working Row 76 as foll:
Yarns as a design consultant, and she Row 76 Remove m, p1, pm for new beg
published her first Norwegian knitting of rnd, work in patt to end.
book in 2012. She currently designs, 60 sts rem when chart is complete. Knit
proofreads knitting publications, 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Gusset:
translates patterns, and holds Left mitt only:
workshops. Set-up rnd K14, M1, k1, pm, k1, M1,
knit to end—62 sts.
Right mitt only:
Set-up rnd K44, M1, k1, pm, k1, M1,

WINTER 2021 59 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


LACE
90
88
86
84
82
80
78
76*
74
72
70
68
66
64
62
60
58
56
54
52
50
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

48
46
44
42
40
38
36
34
32
30
28
26
24
22
20
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2

* Work as given in directions 80 sts to 60 sts

knit p2tog sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2 from cn


purl ssp
sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, transfer 1 st
yo sl 1 kwise, from cn to left needle, p1, k2 from cn
k2tog, psso
k2tog sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, transfer 1 st
from cn to left needle, p1, k2 from cn
p3tog
ssk

WINTER 2021 60 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


pick up and knit 1 st in each purl bump Notions Cable needle (cn); stitch
at wrist—60 sts total. Pm and join in holders; about 700 size 6/0 (4 mm) seed
the rnd. Set-up rnd K2, pm, *[p1, k1] beads; 0.75 mm crochet hook (for bead
2 times, p1, pm, k5, pm; rep from * to placement); tapestry needle.
last 8 sts, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, pm, k3. Gauge 18 sts and 24 rows = 4" in body
Rnd 1 Knit to m, *p1, ssk, yo, k1tbl, p1, patt.
sl m, knit to m, p1, k1tbl, yo, sl 1 kwise
wyb, insert right needle kwise into next
st but swing needle tip to left to capture
back leg of st and sl st from left needle,
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
knit 2 sl sts tog (as for ssk), p1, sl m, knit /knitting-glossary.
to m; rep from * to end.
Rnd 2 Knit to m, *p1, k1, p1, k1tbl, p1, sl NOTES
m, knit to m, p1, k1tbl, p1, k1, p1, sl m,
knit to m; rep from * to end.
• This stole is worked in two halves
and grafted at the center.
Rnd 3 Knit to m, *M1, sl m, p1, ssk, yo, LUCY WESTENRA’S
k1tbl, p1, sl m, M1, knit to m, M1, sl WRAP FIRST HALF
m, p1, k1tbl, yo, sl 1 kwise wyb, insert SUSANNA IC CO 85 sts. Knit 2 rows. Work Rows 1–102
right needle kwise into next st but swing of Edge chart. Work Rows 1–12 of Body
needle tip to left to capture back leg of st Difficulty Level chart 9 times, then work Rows 1–4 of
and sl st from left needle, knit 2 sl sts tog Yarn Weight 1 chart once more. Place sts on holder.
(as for ssk), p1, sl m, M1, knit to m; rep Finished Size 19" wide and 72¼" long.
from * to end—12 sts inc’d. Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sock (100% SECOND HALF

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
Rnd 4 Knit to m, *p1, k1, p1, k1tbl, p1, superwash Merino wool; 395 yd [361 m]): Work as for first half, but end with
sl m, knit to m, p1, k1tbl, p1, k1, p1, Tart, 2 skeins. Row 5 of Body chart instead of Row 4.
sl m, knit to m; rep from * to end. Rep Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle Break yarn, leaving a 2-yd tail for graft-
Rnds 1–4 eight more times, changing size if necessary to obtain the correct ing. Place sts on holder.
to cir needle when necessary—168 sts. gauge.
Work in k1, p1 rib for 8 rnds. BO all sts
in patt.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block.

KATE SCALZO learned to knit during


a frosty Denver winter and now designs
knitwear from her home in sunny
Southern California. She is still always
cold. Find her on Ravelry as katescalzo
and Instagram @scalzogram.

WINTER 2021 61 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


VICTORIAN GOTHIC

EDGE

20-st rep

WINTER 2021
62
1
3
5
7
9
11
13
15
17
19
21
23
25
27
29
31
33
35
37
39
41
43
45
47
49
51
53
55
57
59
61
63
65
67
69
71
73
75
77
79
81
83
85
87
89
91
93
95
97
99
101

WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM
BODY

k on RS; p on WS ssk pattern repeat


11
p on RS; k on WS sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso sl 3 sts onto cn,
9
hold in front, k2,
7 k1tbl on WS sl bead onto crochet hook, insert k3 from cn
crochet hook pwise into st and
5 yo sl st onto crochet hook, slide bead
down hook onto st, then return st
3 k2tog to left needle and k1

10-st rep
FINISHING

FN
BN
Weave in ends except grafting tail. Block each half to 19" wide and 36"
P
K
long. Graft halves tog as foll: Place each half onto a separate needle.
P

Holding needles parallel with WS tog, sts of first half in front and sts of
2nd half in back, graft sts in patt, using either grafting chart or written
K

instructions, as foll:
K
P

Step 1 Insert tapestry needle pwise into st on front needle, leave st on


K

needle.
K

Step 2 Insert tapestry needle pwise into st on back needle, leave st on


P

needle.
K

Step 3 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st on front needle, remove st


from needle, insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on front needle,
P

leave st on needle.
K

Step 4 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st on back needle, remove st


P

from needle, insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on back needle,
K

leave st on needle.
P

Step 5 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st on front needle, remove st


K

from needle, insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on front needle,
P

leave st on needle.
Step 6 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st on back needle, remove st
K

from needle, insert tapestry needle kwise into next st on back needle,
P

leave st on needle.
ssk
K

Step 7 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st on front needle, remove st from
P

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
needle, insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on front needle, leave st on
K

needle.
P

Step 8 Insert tapestry needle pwise into st on back needle, remove st


K
K

from needle, insert tapestry needle kwise into next st on back needle,
leave st on needle.
P

Steps 9 and 10 Rep Steps 7 and 8.


k2tog
K

work 7 times

Step 11 Insert tapestry needle kwise into st on front needle, remove st


yo
P

from needle.
K

Step 12 Insert tapestry needle pwise into st on back needle, remove st


P

from needle, insert tapestry needle kwise into next st on back needle,
K

leave st on needle.
Step 13 With tapestry needle, sl next 2 sts on front needle kwise, one at
P

a time, then return 2 sts to front needle in new positions, insert tapestry
K

needle pwise (back to front) into first 2 sts on front needle, leave sts on
P

needle.
purl st
knit st
K
P

front needle:
K

K
P

K
P
K

P
P

P
K

K
P
K

purl st (as viewed from RS)


P

P
K

K
P

P
K

K
P

P
K

K
P

back needle:
K
P
K

P
GRAFTING

P
K
P

K
P
K

WINTER 2021 63 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Step 14 Insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on back needle, leave st on
into st on back needle, remove st from needle.
needle, insert tapestry needle kwise Step 33 With tapestry needle, sl next
into next st on back needle, leave st on 2 sts on front needle kwise, one at a
needle. time, then return 2 sts to front needle
Step 15 Insert tapestry needle kwise in new positions, insert tapestry needle
(front to back) into 2 sts on front needle, pwise (back to front) into first 2 sts on
remove sts from needle, insert tapes- front needle, leave sts on needle.
try needle pwise into next st on front Step 34 Insert tapestry needle pwise
needle, leave st on needle. into st on back needle, remove st from
Step 16 Insert tapestry needle pwise needle, insert tapestry needle kwise
into st on back needle, remove st from into next st on back needle, leave st on
needle, insert tapestry needle kwise needle.
into next st on back needle, leave st on Step 35 Insert tapestry needle kwise
needle. (front to back) into 2 sts on front needle,
Repeated sequence: remove sts from needle, insert tapes- VAULTED SWONCHO
Step 17 Insert tapestry needle kwise try needle pwise into next st on front KRISTEN JANCUK
into st on front needle, remove st from needle, leave st on needle.
needle, insert tapestry needle pwise into Step 36 Insert tapestry needle pwise Difficulty Level
first 2 sts on front needle, leave sts on into st on back needle, remove st from Yarn Weight 2
needle. needle, insert tapestry needle kwise Finished Size 46¾ (50, 54, 60, 63¼,
Step 18 Insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on back needle, leave st on 69, 73¼, 78)" circumference at larg-
into st on back needle, remove st from needle. est point. Swoncho shown measures
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

needle, insert tapestry needle kwise Rep Steps 17–36 six more times. 50" on model with 35" bust.
into next st on back needle, leave st on Rep Steps 17–24 once. Yarn Harrisville Designs flyWHEEL
needle. Rep Steps 23 and 24 once. (100% pure virgin wool; 170 yd
Step 19 Insert tapestry needle kwise Step 37 Insert tapestry needle kwise [155 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #959 Penstock
into 2 sts on front needle, remove sts into st on front needle, remove st from (dark brown; MC), 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 9)
from needle. needle, insert tapestry needle pwise skeins; #901 Birch Bark (light blue; CC),
Step 20 Insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on front needle, leave st on 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins.
into st on back needle, remove st from needle. Needles Sizes 5 (3.75 mm) and 6
needle, insert tapestry needle kwise Step 38 Insert tapestry needle pwise (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) and set of
into next st on back needle, leave st on into st on back needle, remove st from double-pointed (dpn). Size 5 (3.75 mm):
needle. needle, insert tapestry needle pwise 24" cir. Adjust needle size if necessary
Step 21 Insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on back needle, leave st on to obtain the correct gauge.
into st on front needle, leave st on needle. Notions Markers (m); stitch holders;
needle. Step 39 Insert tapestry needle kwise tapestry needle.
Step 22 Insert tapestry needle pwise into st on front needle, remove st from Gauge 24 sts and 27 rnds = 4" in
into st on back needle, remove st from needle, insert tapestry needle pwise charted patt on larger needle.
needle, insert tapestry needle kwise into next st on front needle, leave st on
into next st on back needle, leave st on
needle.
Step 23 Insert tapestry needle kwise
needle.
Step 40 Insert tapestry needle kwise
into st on back needle, remove st from
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
into st on front needle, remove st from needle, insert tapestry needle pwise /knitting-glossary.
needle, insert tapestry needle pwise into next st on back needle, leave st on
into next st on front needle, leave st on needle. NOTES
needle.
Step 24 Insert tapestry needle pwise
Step 41 Insert tapestry needle kwise
into last st on front needle, remove st
• This swoncho (sweater/poncho) is
worked in the round from the top
into st on back needle, remove st from from needle. down.
needle, insert tapestry needle kwise Step 42 Insert tapestry needle kwise
into next st on back needle, leave st on into last st on back needle, remove st SWONCHO
needle. from needle. With CC and larger cir needle,
Steps 25–30 Rep Steps 23 and 24 three Weave in ends. Block to measurements. CO 168 (180, 192, 216, 228, 246,
times. 264, 278) sts. Place marker (pm) and
Step 31 Insert tapestry needle kwise SUSANNA IC has an extensive join in the rnd. Knit 5 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8)
into st on front needle, remove st from collection of studio arts and art history rnds. Inc rnd *K2, M1; rep from * to
needle. degrees as well as a rather large yarn last 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 2, 0, 2) sts, k0 (0, 0, 0, 0,
Step 32 Insert tapestry needle pwise stash. Find her projects and designs on 2, 0, 2)—252 (270, 288, 324, 342, 368,
into st on back needle, remove st from Ravelry, Instagram, Facebook, and her 396, 416) sts. Work Rows 1–7 of Color-
needle, insert tapestry needle kwise website, www.ArtQualia.com. work chart for your size 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3,

WINTER 2021 64 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


COLORWORK, sizes 46¾", 50", 60", 63¼", and 73¼"

21 knit with MC

rep as 19 knit with CC


needed
17 3 k1fb&f with MC
15
pattern repeat
13

11

9 E
3
7

5 H
D
3
C
1
G
18-st to 20-st rep B

I
COLORWORK, sizes 54", 69", and 78" BODY

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
21 F

rep as 19
J
needed
17 A
15

13
A: 40 (43¼, 42, 46¾, 50, 57, 60, 66)"
11 B: 46¾ (50, 54, 60, 63¼, 69, 73¼, 78)"
C: 37¼ (40, 42¾, 48, 50¾, 54¾, 58¾, 61¾)"
9 D: 28 (30, 32, 28¾, 30½, 32¾, 35¼, 36¾)"
3
E: 33½ (36, 38½, 36, 38, 41, 44, 46)"
7
F: 5¾ (6, 6, 6, 6¼, 6¼, 6½, 6½)"
5 G: 14½ (15, 15, 15½, 16, 16, 16½, 17)"
H: 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7)"
3 I: 6¾ (7, 7, 7, 7¼, 7¼, 7½, 7½)"
1 J: 10 (10, 12, 13¼, 13¼, 12, 13¼, 12)"

16-st to 18-st rep

3, 3) times. Work Rows 8–14 of chart 10, 10, 9, 10, 9) sts for underarm, work Sizes 46¾ (54, 60, 63¼, 69, 73¼)"
once—280 (300, 324, 360, 380, 414, 100 (110, 108, 120, 130, 153, 160, 180) only:
440, 468) sts. Rep Rows 15–21 of chart sts in patt, place next 40 (40, 54, 60, Next rnd K1 (1, 3, 9, 11, 1), k2tog,
until piece measures 14½ (15, 15, 15½, 60, 54, 60, 54) sts on holder for sleeve, *k2 (6, 5, 6, 4, 5), k2tog; rep from * to
16, 16, 16½, 17)" from CO. Make a note CO 10 (10, 9, 10, 10, 9, 10, 9) sts for last 1 (1, 2, 9, 11, 0) st(s), k1 (1, 2, 9,
of next chart row to be worked. Divide underarm, pm, CO 10 (10, 9, 10, 10, 9, 11, 0)—180 (220, 240, 264, 288, 308)
for body and sleeves: Next rnd Work 10, 9) sts for underarm—240 (260, 252, sts rem.
100 (110, 108, 120, 130, 153, 160, 180) 280, 300, 342, 360, 396) sts for body. Size 50" only:
sts in patt, place next 40 (40, 54, 60, 60, Pm and join in the rnd. Working new sts Next rnd *K3, k2tog, [k2, k2tog]
54, 60, 54) sts on holder for sleeve, then into patt, work even until piece measures 2 times; rep from * to end—200 sts rem.
with both colors and using the long-tail 1¾ (2, 2, 2, 2¼, 2¼, 2½, 2½)" from under- Size 78" only:
method, CO 10 (10, 9, 10, 10, 9, 10, 9) arm. Break CC and cont with MC only. Next rnd *K5, k2tog; rep from * to last
sts for underarm, pm, CO 10 (10, 9, Change to smaller 32" cir needle. 4 sts, k4—340 sts rem.

WINTER 2021 65 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


All sizes: All sizes:
Work in k2, p2 rib for ½". Next row (RS) Work even in rib as established until rib
Work in rib to m, place sts between this measures 4". Loosely BO all sts in patt.
m and next m on holder, remove m, turn.
Next row (WS) Work in rib to beg-of- FINISHING
rnd m, remove m, work in rib to end. Collar: With MC, smaller 24" cir needle,
Working back and forth in rows, cont in and RS facing, pick up and knit 168 (180,
rib until rib measures 4" total. Loosely 192, 216, 228, 246, 264, 276) sts evenly
BO all sts in patt. Return held sts to spaced around neck edge. Pm and join in
needle and, with RS facing, rejoin MC. the rnd. Work in k3, p3 rib for 1 (1, 1, 2,
Work in rib until rib measures 4" total. 2, 2, 2, 2)".
Loosely BO all sts in patt. Sizes 46¾ (50, 54)" only:
Next rnd *K3, p2tog, p1; rep from * to
SLEEVES end—140 (150, 160) sts rem.
Return 40 (40, 54, 60, 60, 54, 60, 54) Sizes 60 (63¼, 69, 73¼, 78)" only:
sleeve sts to larger dpn. With CC and Next rnd *K2tog, k1, p2tog, p1; rep THRUSHCROSS SHAWL
RS facing, pick up and knit 20 (20, 18, from * to end—144 (152, 164, 176, 184) JENNIFER MILLER COMSTOCK
20, 20, 18, 20, 18) sts along underarm sts rem.
CO—60 (60, 72, 80, 80, 72, 80, 72) sts All sizes: Difficulty Level
total. Pm and join in the rnd. Join MC Cont in rib for 3". Next rnd *K3 (3, 3, Yarn Weight 2
and, beg with chart row noted before 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), p1f&b, p1; rep from * to Finished Size 52" wide and 34" deep
body/sleeve divide, work Colorwork chart end—168 (180, 192, 180, 190, 205, at center.
for your size, working CO sts into patt. 220, 230) sts. Cont in rib for 2". Loosely Yarn Wonderland Yarns Unicorn
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

Work even until piece measures 2¾ (3, BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends. Block (63% silk, 23% kid mohair, 11% nylon,
3, 3, 3¼, 3¼, 3½, 3½)" from underarm. to measurements. Fold collar to RS. 3% lurex; 310 yd [283 m]/3½ oz [100 g]):
Break CC and cont with MC only. Change #94 More Slumber, 3 skeins.
to smaller dpn. KRISTEN JANCUK is a knitwear Needles Size 9 (5.5 mm): 32" or longer
Sizes 46¾ (50, 78)" only: designer and knitting instructor, circular (cir). Adjust needle size if nec-
Next rnd *K1, k2tog, p1, p2tog; rep publishing indie knitting patterns as essary to obtain the correct gauge.
from * to end—40 (40, 48) sts rem. MediaPeruana Designs. Her work has Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.
Sizes 54 (60, 63¼)" only: been published by Knitty, knitscene, Gauge 15 sts and 23 rows = 4" in Arch
Next rnd K2, p2, *[k2tog] 2 times, I Like Knitting, and Knit Picks, among Lace patt.
[p2tog] 2 times; rep from * to last 4 sts, others. Kristen lives in Maryland with
k2, p2—40 (44, 44) sts rem.
Sizes 69 (73¼)" only:
Next rnd [K2, p2] 2 times, *[k2tog]
her husband and two sons and is a rabid
Baltimore Orioles fan. ? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
2 times, [p2tog] 2 times; rep from * to last /knitting-glossary.
8 sts, [k2, p2] 2 times—44 (48) sts rem.
NOTES
• This shawl is worked back and forth
from the center neck down and
outward, beginning with a garter-tab
cast-on. Increases are worked along
a center spine throughout, and also
at “pi shaping” intervals, with lace
patterns worked in between.
• A circular needle is used to accommo-
date the large number of stitches.

SHAWL
Garter tab: CO 3 sts. Knit 5 rows. Next
row (WS) K3, working along selvedge
edge, [pick up and knit 1 st in next garter
ridge] 2 times, place marker (pm), pick up
and knit 1 st in next garter ridge, then
pick up and knit 1 st in each CO st—9 sts
total. Turn. Work Rows 1–20 of Set-up
chart—49 sts. Next row (RS) K3, *yo,
k1; rep from * to m, yo, sl m, k1, **yo, k1;
rep from ** to last 3 sts, yo, k3—93 sts.

WINTER 2021 66 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso
19

17

15

13

11

k on RS; p on WS

marker position
pattern repeat
k on WS

k2tog

ssk
5

yo
3

11

6-st rep
9 sts to 49 sts

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
6-st rep
FLEURETTE LACE
SET-UP

Next row K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3.


Next row Knit to m, yo, sl m, k1, yo,
knit to end—95 sts. Next row K3, purl
to last 3 sts, k3. Work Rows 1–12 of Fleu-
rette Lace chart 2 times—119 sts. Next
row (RS) Knit to m, yo, sl m, k1, yo, knit
to end—121 sts. Next row (WS) Knit.
Next row K3, *yo, k1; rep from * to m,
yo, sl m, k1, **yo, k1; rep from ** to last
3 sts, yo, k3—237 sts. Next row K3,
purl to last 3 sts, k3. Work Rows 1–20
of Arch Lace chart 2 times—277 sts.
Work Rows 1–19 of Arch Lace chart once
more—297 sts. Next row (WS) Knit.
Next row K3, *yo, k1; rep from * to m,
yo, sl m, k1, **yo, k1; rep from ** to last FINISHING
3 sts, yo, k3—589 sts. Next row K3, Weave in ends. Block to measurements,
purl to m, remove m, purl to last 3 sts, pinning out each point of cobweb lace
k3. Work Rows 1–4 of Cobweb Lace chart edging, and pulling center point lower to
7 times, then work Rows 1–3 of chart define triangular shape.
once more. Knit 2 rows. With WS facing,
BO all sts as foll: K1, *k1, insert left JENNIFER MILLER COMSTOCK lives
needle from left to right through both in the beautiful Pacific Northwest,
sts (as for ssk) and work them tog; rep where the overcast skies feel much
from * to end. Fasten off last st. more romantic with the right knitwear.
Find more of her designs on Ravelry.
19

17

15

13

11

1
WHITBY COWL & HOOD
ESTEFANIA ESPINDOLA

Difficulty Level

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso


Yarn Weight 4
10-st rep

Finished Size 14½ (15½, 15¾, 16¾, 17¼,


17¾, 18, 19)" wide at shoulder. Cowl

marker position
pattern repeat
shown measures 15½".
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

Yarn Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted


(100% wool; 220 yd [201 m]/3½ oz
[100 g]): #14018 Rhapsody, 4 (4, 4, 4, 4,
ssk

5, 5, 5) skeins.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm): straight and
16" circular (cir). Size 8 (5 mm): straight
and 32" cir. Adjust needle size if neces-
k on RS; p on WS

sary to obtain the correct gauge.


Notions Markers (m); cable needle
(cn); stitch holders; spare size 8 (5 mm)
k on WS

or smaller 16" or longer cir needle;


k2tog

tapestry needle.
yo

Gauge 19 sts and 27 rows = 4" in rev St


st on larger needles.

? For techniques you don’t know,


please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
/knitting-glossary.

NOTES

3

The front and back of this piece are


worked back and forth from the
bottom up. After the shoulder seams
are sewn, stitches are picked up for
the collar, then the hood stitches are
created by increasing in most of the
collar stitches. The new stitches are
10-st rep

placed onto a separate needle for the


10-st rep

hood.
• When working the collar and hood,
two sets of needles are necessary: one
COBWEB LACE

to work in the round for the collar


ARCH LACE

and one to work back and forth for


the hood.

WINTER 2021 68 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


CABLE
rep as
needed 47

45

43

41

39

37

35
k on RS; p on WS 33

p on RS; k on WS 31

29
k2tog

WINTER 2021
27
ssk

69
25
M M1
23
no stitch 21

pattern repeat 19

17
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in

WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM
back, k2, p2 from cn 15

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in 13


front, p2, k2 from cn
11
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in
9
front, k2, k2 from cn
7
sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in
back, k2, p3 from cn 5

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in 3


front, p3, k2 from cn
1

48 sts to 52 sts to 48 sts

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
STITCH GUIDE 4, 4, 2, 4, 2, 4), pm, work 13 (15, 17,
Rib Pattern: (odd number of sts) 19, 19, 21, 21, 23) sts in patt—58 (62,
Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p1, *k1, p1; 66, 70, 70, 74, 74, 78) sts rem. Change
E
rep from * to last st, k1tbl. to larger straight needles. Keeping sts D
Row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, *k1, p1; rep between m in rev St st, work 2 rows even
from * to last 2 sts, k1, k1tbl. in patt. Inc row (RS) Work in patt to m,
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt. sl m, M1P, work to m, M1P, sl m, work C F
in patt to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep inc row G
BACK every 6th row 8 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9) more BODY
With smaller straight needles, CO 65 times—76 (80, 84, 88, 90, 94, 94, 98)
(69, 73, 77, 85, 87, 89, 91) sts. Work in Rib sts; 50 (50, 50, 50, 52, 52, 52, 52) sts B
patt (see Stitch Guide) for 2", ending with between m. Work 3 rows even, ending
a RS row. Dec row (WS) Work 13 (15, with a WS row. Next row (RS) Work
17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 23) sts in patt, place in patt to m, sl m, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2),
marker (pm), [k3, k2tog] 7 (7, 7, 7, 0, 1, pm for chart, work Row 1 of Cable chart
0, 1) time(s), [k1, k2tog] 0 (0, 0, 0, 15, 12, over 48 sts, pm for chart, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2,
A
15, 12) times, k4 (4, 4, 4, 2, 4, 2, 4), pm, 2, 2, 2), sl m, work in patt to end. Work
work 13 (15, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 23) sts in 1 WS row. Rep inc row on next row,
patt—58 (62, 66, 70, 70, 74, 74, 78) sts then every 6th row 0 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 4)
rem. Change to larger straight needles. more time(s)—78 (84, 88, 98, 100, 104, A: 10¼ (10¾, 11¼, 11¾, 11¾, 12¼,
Keeping sts between m in rev St st, work 106, 112) sts; Row 3 (9, 9, 15, 15, 15, 12¼, 12¾)"
2 rows even in patt. Inc row (RS) Work 21, 27) of chart is complete. Work even B: 16½ (17, 17½, 18, 18½, 19, 19½, 20)"
in patt to m, sl m, M1P, purl to m, M1P, sl through Row 38 (38, 40, 40, 40, 40, C: ½"
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

m, work in patt to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep 42, 42) of chart—78 (84, 88, 94, 96, 100, D: 14¼ (14¼, 14¾, 14¾, 15¼, 15¼,
inc row every 6th row 9 (10, 10, 11, 12, 102, 108) sts rem. Shape neck: Next 15¾, 15¾)"
12, 13, 14) more times—78 (84, 88, 94, row (RS; Row 39 [39, 41, 41, 41, 41, 43, E: 19 (19¾, 20¼, 21, 22¼, 22¼, 22¾, 23)"
96, 100, 102, 108) sts. Work even until 43] of chart) Work in patt to m, sl m, F: 9½ (10½, 11, 11½, 12, 12½, 13, 13½)"
piece measures 16½ (17, 17½, 18, 18½, work 20 (21, 21, 21, 22, 22, 22, 23) sts in G: 4½ (4¾, 4¾, 5, 5¼, 5¼, 5¼, 5¾)"
19, 19½, 20)" from CO, ending with a patt and place these 33 (36, 38, 40, 41,
WS row. Shape shoulders and neck: 43, 43, 46) sts on holder for left front,
BO 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12) sts at beg BO 12 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) sts,
of next 2 rows—60 (64, 68, 72, 74, 78, work in patt to end—33 (36, 38, 40, 41,
78, 84) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 9 (9, 43, 43, 46) sts rem for right front. Right
10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12) sts, p10 (11, 11, 12, front: Work 1 WS row. Note: For some
12, 13, 12, 14) (including st rem on right sizes, shoulder shaping beg before neck
needle after BO), place next 22 (24, 26, shaping ends; read the foll section all the
28, 28, 30, 32, 32) sts on holder for neck, way through before proceeding. At beg of
place foll 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 23, 26) sts RS rows, BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts once,
on 2nd holder for left shoulder—10 (11, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts once,
11, 12, 12, 13, 12, 14) sts rem for right then BO 2 sts once, then BO 0 (1, 1, 1, 0,
shoulder. Right shoulder: Next row 1, 1, 1) st once. At the same time, when
(WS) BO 2 sts, work to end—8 (9, 9, 10, piece measures 16½ (17, 17½, 18, 18½,
10, 11, 10, 12) sts rem. BO all sts. Left 19, 19½, 20)" from CO, ending with a RS
shoulder: Return 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, row, shape shoulder as foll: At beg of WS
23, 26) held sts to needle and, with RS rows, BO 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12)
facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 RS row. Next sts once, then BO 9 (9, 10, 10, 11, 11,
row (WS) BO 9 (9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12) 11, 12) sts once, then BO 8 (9, 9, 10, 10,
sts, work to end—10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 11, 10, 12) sts once—no sts rem. Left
12, 14) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 2 sts, front: Return 33 (36, 38, 40, 41, 43,
work to end—8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 10, 12) 43, 46) held left front sts to needle and,
sts rem. BO all sts. with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Note: For
some sizes, shoulder shaping beg before
FRONT neck shaping ends; read the foll section
With smaller straight needles, CO 65 all the way through before proceeding. At
(69, 73, 77, 85, 87, 89, 91) sts. Work in beg of WS rows, BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4)
Rib patt for 2", ending with a RS row. sts once, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts
Dec row (WS) Work 13 (15, 17, 19, 19, once, then BO 2 sts once, then BO 0 (1,
21, 21, 23) sts in patt, pm, [k3, k2tog] 1, 1, 0, 1, 1, 1) st once. At the same
7 (7, 7, 7, 0, 1, 0, 1) time(s), [k1, k2tog] time, when piece measures 16½ (17, 17½,
0 (0, 0, 0, 15, 12, 15, 12) times, k4 (4, 18, 18½, 19, 19½, 20)" from CO, ending

WINTER 2021 70 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


with a WS row, shape shoulder as foll: At 32" cir needle, rejoin yarn at left front
beg of RS rows, BO 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 11, edge. Inc row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p1,
12, 12) sts once, then BO 9 (9, 10, 10, 11, *k1, p1; rep from * 2 (1, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2, 3)
11, 11, 12) sts once, then BO 8 (9, 9, 10, more time(s), pm, k0 (1, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 1),
10, 11, 10, 12) sts once—no sts rem. M1, **k2, M1; rep from ** to last 8 (7, 9,
8, 7, 8, 9, 11) sts, k0 (1, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 1),
FINISHING pm, p1, ***k1, p1; rep from *** 2 (1, 2, 2,
Weave in ends. Block pieces to measure- 1, 2, 2, 3) more time(s), k1tbl—80 (84,
ments. Sew shoulder seams. Collar and 88, 92, 96, 98, 100, 104) sts. Work even
hood: With smaller 16" cir needle and in rib and rev St st as established (always
RS facing, beg at right shoulder seam, sl first st pwise wyf and knit last st tbl)
pick up and knit 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) sts until piece measures 1" from pick-up
along right back neck edge, p22 (24, 26, rnd, ending with a RS row. Set-up row
28, 28, 30, 32, 32) held back neck sts, (WS) Work in patt to m, sl m, k32 (36,
pick up and knit 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) sts 36, 38, 42, 41, 42, 42), pm, work in patt
along left back neck edge, 15 (16, 17, to end. Shape hood: Inc row (RS) ST. MACHAR WRAP
17, 18, 19, 19, 20) sts along left front Work in patt to m, sl m, purl to 1 st FIONA MUNRO
neck edge, 12 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16) before m, M1P, p1, sl m, p1, M1P, purl
sts along center front edge, and 15 (16, to m, work in patt to end—2 sts inc’d. Difficulty Level
17, 17, 18, 19, 19, 20) sts along right Rep inc row every 8th row 7 (6, 6, 6, 6, Yarn Weight 2
front neck edge—72 (78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 6, 6, 5) more times—96 (98, 102, 106, Finished Size 16¼" wide and 60¾" long.
98, 102) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. 110, 112, 114, 116) sts. Work even until Yarn Blue Sky Fibers Baby Alpaca (100%
Next rnd [K1f&b] 44 (47, 50, 52, 54, 56, hood measures 11 (11, 11½, 11½, 12, baby alpaca; 110 yd [10 0 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]):

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
58, 61) times, pm, k14 (18, 18, 20, 22, 12, 12½, 12½)" from pick-up rnd, ending #542 Currant (A) and #507 Natural Light
24, 26, 26), pm, [k1f&b] 14 (13, 14, 14, with a WS row. Dec row (RS) Work to Gray (B), 5 skeins each.
14, 14, 14, 15) times—130 (138, 146, 2 sts before 2nd m, p2tog, sl m, ssp, work Needles Size 4 (3.5 mm). Adjust needle
152, 158, 164, 170, 178) sts. Divide for to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep dec row every size if necessary to obtain the correct
collar and hood: 4th row once more, then every RS row gauge.
Sizes 14½ (15¾, 16¾, 17¼, 17¾, 18)" 7 times—78 (80, 84, 88, 92, 94, 96, 98) Notions Tapestry needle.
only: sts rem. Dec row (WS) Work to 2 sts Gauge 24 sts and 25 rows = 4" in
Next rnd *K1 (with 16" cir needle), before 2nd m, ssk, sl m, k2tog, work to charted patt.
sl 1 st to larger 32" cir needle and hold in end—2 sts dec’d. Work 1 RS row even.
front, p1 (with 16" cir needle), sl 1 st to
32" cir needle; rep from * to m, remove
m, **with 16" cir needle, k1, p1; rep from
Rep WS dec row—74 (76, 80, 84, 88, 90,
92, 94) sts rem. Sl 37 (38, 40, 42, 44, 45,
46, 47) sts to spare cir needle. Graft sts
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
** to m, remove m, ***k1 (with 16" cir using Kitchener st. Weave in ends. Block. /knitting-glossary.
needle), sl 1 st to spare cir needle and
hold in front, p1 (with 16" cir needle), ESTEFANIA ESPINDOLA was born NOTES
sl 1 st to spare cir needle; rep from *** to
end—72 (82, 86, 90, 94, 98) sts for col-
in Argentina and settled in Houston,
Texas. Influenced by the women in her
• This wrap is worked back and forth
from end to end.
lar, 58 (64, 66, 68, 70, 72) sts for hood.
Sizes 15½ (19)" only:
family, she started knitting, crocheting,
and sewing at a very young age. When
• The colorwork chart is worked using
the stranded method. Always pick
Next rnd *K1 (with 16" cir needle), she’s not working as a first-grade up the background color over the
sl 1 st to larger 32" cir needle and hold teacher, she knits and works toward her pattern color and pick up the pattern
in front, p1 (with 16" cir needle), sl 1 st fashion-design degree. Follow her on color from under the background
to 32" cir needle; rep from * to 2 sts Instagram @knithappenswhenyouCO. color; this will prevent tangling. Keep
before m, k1, sl 1 st to 32" cir needle, floats loose. For floats longer than
remove m, **with 16" cir needle, p1, two stitches, tack stranded yarn on
k1; rep from ** to m, remove m, ***p1 wrong side of work.
(with 16" cir needle), sl 1 st to spare cir
needle and hold in front, k1 (with 16" WRAP
cir needle), sl 1 st to spare cir needle; rep With A, CO 100 sts. Knit 18 rows, ending
from *** to last 2 sts, p1, sl 1 st to spare with a WS row. Next row With A, k4,
cir needle—78 (102) sts for collar, 60 work Colorwork chart to last 4 sts, with
(76) sts for hood. A, k4. Keeping 4 sts at each end in garter
All sizes: st with A, cont in patt until Rows 1–30 of
Transfer all sts from spare cir needle chart have been worked 11 times, then
to 32" cir needle. Collar: With 16" cir work Rows 1–29 of chart once more.
needle, work in k1, p1 rib for 4". BO all Break A and B. Sl all sts pwise from right
sts in patt. Hood: With WS facing and needle to left needle (or, if working with

WINTER 2021 71 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


COLORWORK

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13
MISS EYRE’S CAPE
DONNA ESTIN
11
Difficulty Level
9 Yarn Weight 3
7 Finished Size 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64,
68, 72)" circumference, buttoned. Cape
5 shown measures 48" on model with
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

31" bust.
3
Yarn Green Mountain Spinnery Mew-
1 esic (100% fine American wool; 180 yd
[165 m]/2 oz [57 g]): #8951 Purple Rain,
23-st rep 8 (8, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13) skeins.
Needles Sizes 5 (3.75 mm) and 6
(4 mm): 32" circular (cir). Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct
with A, k on RS, p on WS
gauge.
with B, k on RS, p on WS Notions Markers (m); stitch holders;
cable needle (cn); four 7⁄8" buttons;
pattern repeat tapestry needle.
Gauge 17 sts and 33 rows = 4" in K1,
P1 Rib on smaller needle; 29 sts and
30 rows = 4" over combined charts on
larger needle.

a circular needle, slide sts to


other end of needle). With RS
facing, rejoin A. Knit 17 rows,
? For techniques you don’t know,
please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
ending with a RS row. With WS /knitting-glossary.
facing, BO all sts kwise.
NOTES
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to
• The body of this cape is worked from
side to side, then stitches are picked
measurements. up along one selvedge edge for the
yoke.
FIONA MUNRO’s grandmother
taught her to knit at six years
• A circular needle is used to accommo-
date the large number of stitches.
old, and she’s been an avid
knitter ever since. Fiona grew STITCH GUIDE
up on a small island in Canada K1, P1 Rib: (odd number of sts)
and now lives in Scotland. Her Row 1 (WS) P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to
design style is classic with end.
a modern twist. Find her on Row 2 (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last
Ravelry as MunroSisters3. st, k1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

WINTER 2021 72 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


D
BRAID

23 C

21
CAPE
19

17 B

15

13

11
A
9

7 Note: Body circumference is with front


bands overlapped.
5 A: 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72)"
3
B: 17½ (17½, 17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18, 18)"
C: 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7)"
1 D: 12½ (13, 14, 14¼, 14¼, 14¼, 15¼, 15¼)"

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
20 sts

RIGHT WISHBONE

15

13

11

29 sts

k on RS; p on WS
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in back,
in back, k2, k2 from cn k3, k3 from cn
p on RS; k on WS
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold
MR M1R in front, k2, k2 from cn sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front,
k3, k3 from cn
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold
ML M1L
in back, k2, p2 from cn
sl 10 sts onto cn, 180 degrees
5 p2tog, p3tog tbl, pass sl 2 sts onto cn, hold counterclockwise until WS of
2nd st on right needle in front, p2, k2 from cn cn is facing, k10 from cn
over first
sl 1 st onto cn, hold sl 10 sts onto cn, turn cn
3
in back, k3, p1 from cn 180 degrees clockwise until WS
k1fb&f
of cn is facing, k10 from cn
sl 3 sts onto cn, hold
no stitch in front, p1, k3 from cn

WINTER 2021 73 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


BODY BOOTLACE CABLE
With smaller needle, CO 99 (99, 99,
99, 103, 103, 103, 103) sts. Do not
15
join. Work in K1, P1 Rib (see Stitch
Guide) for 3 rows. Buttonhole row 13
(RS) Work 3 sts in rib, *[yo] 2 times,
k2tog, work 14 sts in rib; rep from 11
* 2 more times, [yo] 2 times, k2tog,
9
work in rib to end. Next row (WS)
*Work in patt to double yo, knit first 7
yo, drop 2nd yo; rep from * 3 more
3 3
times, work in patt to end. Next 5
row (RS) *Work in patt to button-
3
hole, purl into middle of buttonhole
and drop st above buttonhole from 1
left needle; rep from * 3 more times,
work in patt to end. Work in rib 26 sts to 34 sts to 26 sts
for 2 rows. Inc row (WS) P1, place
marker (pm), p1, p1f&b, k2, k1f&b,
[p1, p1f&b] 2 times, k1f&b, k2, p1f&b,
LEFT WISHBONE
p1, pm, k2, [p1, p1f&b] 3 times, p1, k2,
[p2, p1f&b] 3 times, p1, k2, pm, k4 (4, 4,
4, 6, 6, 6, 6), k1f&b, k5, p1, p1f&b, p1, 15
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

k4, k1f&b, k5 (5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 7), pm, k2,


13
[p2, p1f&b] 3 times, p1, k2, [p1, p1f&b]
3 times, p1, k2, pm, p1, p1f&b, k2, 11
k1f&b, [p1, p1f&b] 2 times, k1f&b, k2,
p1f&b, p1, pm, p1—126 (126, 126, 126, 9
130, 130, 130, 130) sts. Change to larger
7
needle.
Sizes 44 (48, 52, 56)" only: 5
Next row (RS) K1, sl m, work Braid
chart over 20 sts, sl m, work Right 3
Wishbone chart over 29 sts, sl m, work 1
Bootlace Cable chart over 26 sts, sl m,
work Left Wishbone chart over 29 sts, sl 29 sts
m, work Braid chart over 20 sts, sl m, k1.
Sizes 60 (64, 68, 72)" only:
Next row (RS) K1, sl m, work Braid k on RS; p on WS sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back,
chart over 20 sts, sl m, work Right k2, p2 from cn
Wishbone chart over 29 sts, sl m, p2, pm, p on RS; k on WS
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front,
work Bootlace Cable chart over 26 sts, p2, k2 from cn
MR M1R
pm, p2, sl m, work Left Wishbone chart
over 29 sts, sl m, work Braid chart over sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back,
ML M1L k3, p1 from cn
20 sts, sl m, k1.
All sizes: sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front,
5 p2tog, p3tog tbl, pass
Keeping 1 st at each end in St st and sts p1, k3 from cn
between charts (if any) in rev St st, cont 2nd st on right needle
over first sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in back,
in patt until piece measures 44 (48, 52,
k3, k3 from cn
56, 60, 64, 68, 72)" from CO, ending with 3 k1fb&f
a RS row, and removing m on last row. sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front,
Dec row (WS) [P2, p2tog] 2 times, [p1, k3, k3 from cn
no stitch
p2tog] 2 times, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p3, [p1,
sl 10 sts onto cn, turn cn
p2tog] 3 times, p3, [p2, p2tog] 3 times,
sl 2 sts onto cn, 180 degrees counterclockwise
p7 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9), p2tog, p6, p2tog, until WS of cn is facing, k10
hold in back,
p5, p2tog, p7 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9), [p2, k2, k2 from cn from cn
p2tog] 3 times, p3, [p1, p2tog] 3 times,
p4, p2tog, p2, p2tog, [p1, p2tog] 2 times, sl 2 sts onto cn, sl 10 sts onto cn, turn cn
[p2tog, p2] 2 times—99 (99, 99, 99, hold in front, 180 degrees clockwise until
k2, k2 from cn WS of cn is facing, k10 from cn
103, 103, 103, 103) sts rem. Change to

WINTER 2021 74 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


neck and yoke: Note: Yoke shaping
(RS rows) beg before neck shaping (WS
rows) ends; read the foll section all the
way through before proceeding. Neck
dec row (WS) K1, p1, ssk, work in patt
to last 4 sts, k2tog, p1, k1—2 sts dec’d.
Rep neck dec row every WS row 14 (15,
17, 21, 19, 19, 19, 23) more times. Work
1 RS row. Dec row (WS) K1, ssk, work
to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Work
1 RS row. Dec row (WS) Ssk, work to
last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. At the
same time, beg on first RS row after
first neck dec row, shape yoke as foll:
Yoke dec row (RS) Purl to m, sl m, k1,
*purl to 2 sts before knit st, p2tog, k1;
rep from * to m, purl to end—25 (26, 28,
29, 29, 29, 31, 31) sts dec’d. Rep yoke dec
row every 6th row 2 (5, 5, 2, 6, 3, 6, 7)
more times, then every 8th row 2 (0, 0, 3,
0, 3, 0, 0) times—53 (55, 59, 61, 61, 61,
65, 65) sts rem when all neck and yoke
shaping is complete. Work even in patt

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
until yoke measures 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7)",
ending with a RS row. Using the tubular
method, BO all sts as foll: Break yarn,
leaving a 1½-yd tail. With tail threaded
on a tapestry needle, cont as foll:
Step 1 Insert tapestry needle pwise into
first knit st on needle, leave st on needle.
Step 2 With tapestry needle behind first
knit st, insert tapestry needle kwise into
first purl st (2nd st on needle).
Step 3 Insert tapestry needle kwise into
first knit st, remove st from needle.
Step 4 Insert tapestry needle pwise into
next knit st (2nd st on needle).
Step 5 Insert tapestry needle pwise into
first purl st, remove st from needle.
Step 6 With tapestry needle behind first
knit st, insert tapestry needle kwise into
next purl st (2nd st on needle).
Rep Steps 3–6 until 2 sts rem, then work
Steps 3 and 5.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
Sew on buttons.

smaller needle. Beg with Row 2, work in *P13 (15, 14), p2tog; rep from * to last DONNA ESTIN is a Certified Master
K1, P1 Rib for 7 rows. BO all sts in patt. 2 (4, 11) sts, p2 (4, 11)—212 (308, 326) Knitter who lives and designs in
sts rem. Maryland on the Chesapeake Bay.
YOKE All sizes: She currently serves on the board
With smaller needle and RS facing, beg Set-up row (WS) K18 (19, 21, 25, 23, of directors for The Knitting Guild
at end of CO edge with buttonholes, pick 23, 23, 27), pm, p1, *k6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, Association as vice president of public
up and knit 227 (247, 267, 283, 308, 327, 8, 9), p1; rep from * 24 (25, 27, 28, 28, relations. She’s passionate about
347, 365) sts along long selvedge edge, 28, 30, 30) more times, pm, k18 (19, 21, designing garments and sailing with her
ending at BO edge. Do not join. 25, 23, 23, 23, 27). Next row (RS) Purl husband and dogs. Find her designs on
Sizes 44 (64, 68)" only: to m, sl m, k1, *p6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9), www.DonnaEstinDesigns.com.
Next row (WS) Knit. Dec row (RS) k1; rep from * to m, purl to end. Shape

WINTER 2021 75 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 25 sts and 35 rows = 4" in
Tracery Lace patt.

? For techniques you don’t know,


please visit our online knitting
glossary at www.interweave/go
/knitting-glossary.

NOTES
• These mitts are worked back and
forth in one piece from the cuff edg-
ing to the pointed tip, then finished
with a length of I-cord. The I-cord is
sewn to form a loop, and the edging
GHOSTLY MITTS is seamed to form a cuff.
JENNIFER MILLER COMSTOCK • For stability of the lower edge, a
double strand of yarn is used to cast
Difficulty Level on, and then a single strand of yarn is
Yarn Weight 0 used for the remainder of the mitt.
Finished Size 7¼" wrist circumference
and 8" long, excluding loop. MITTS
Yarn Shibui Knits Silk Cloud (60% kid With 2 strands of yarn held tog and
VICTORIAN GOTHIC

mohair, 40% silk; 330 yd [302 m]/7⁄8 oz straight needles, CO 57 sts. Drop 2nd
[25 g]): #2181 Bone, 1 ball. strand. Knit 2 rows. Work Rows 1–16 of
Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): straight Peaked Lace Edge chart. Next row (RS)
and two double-pointed (dpn). Adjust K3, *k2tog, k1, k2tog, k5, ssk, k1, ssk,
needle size if necessary to obtain the k3; rep from * 2 more times—45 sts rem.
correct gauge. Next row (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

PEAKED LACE EDGE

15

13

11

18-st rep

k on RS; p on WS ssk no stitch

yo sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso pattern repeat

k2tog

WINTER 2021 76 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


TRACERY LACE
47

45

43

41

39
3
37

35

33

31

29

27
3
25

23

21

VICTORIAN GOTHIC
3 3
19

17

15
3
13

11

9
3 3
7

3
3 3 3
1

45 sts to 3 sts

Work Rows 1–48 of Tracery Lace chart—3 sts rem.


Change to dpn. Work 3-st I-cord for 2½" (or desired
length to fit around finger). K3tog—1 st rem. Fasten
off, leaving an 8" tail. k on RS; p on WS sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

3
FINISHING k on WS k3tog but do not drop
sts from left needle, yo,
With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, sew end of
yo knit same 3 sts tog again,
I-cord to base of I-cord, forming a loop. Weave in ends.
drop 3 sts from left needle
Block to measurements, pinning out points on edging.
k2tog
Sew selvedge edges of edging tog to form cuff. no stitch
ssk
JENNIFER MILLER COMSTOCK lives in the beautiful pattern repeat
Pacific Northwest, where the overcast skies feel much
k3tog
more romantic with the right knitwear. Find more of
her designs on Ravelry.

WINTER 2021 77 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


yarn shop DIRECTORY

Visit These Fine Retailers


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at
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TRAVEL 317-482-0120
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(541) 673-2199 www.abundant-yarn.com
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Loom Products made by
A beautiful yarn boutique Woobee KnitShop
Harrisville Designs. Come visit www.woobeeknitshop.com
our shop. We have our full in Northeastern PA. Visit
(307) 760-2092
product line on display, plus us for fine yarn, patterns,
Products include Brown Sheep, Waverly,
spinning equipment, fibers, notions, and knitting
Jean Greenhowe, Addi, Skacel and Cascade
yarns, books. Call for Classes. & crochet classes.
4 Mill Alley 303 Market St.
(603) 827-3996 (570) 287-9999

WINTER 2021 78 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


yarn shop DIRECTORY

Premiere Classifieds Resource Guide

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Retail / Wholesale

OOMINGMAK STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION (required by Act of August 12, 1970: Sec-
tion 3685, Title 39, United States Code). 1. Interweave Knits 2. (ISSN: 1088-3622) 3. Filing date: 10/1/20. 4.
604 H Street, Anchorage, AK 99501 Issue frequency: Quarterly. 5. Number of issues published annually: 4. 6. The annual subscription price is
twww.qiviut.com $26.95. 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication: Peak Media Properties, 4868 Innovation
Drive, Fort Collins, CO 80525. Contact person: Kolin Rankin. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or
general business office of publisher: Peak Media Properties, 4868 Innovation Drive, Fort Collins, CO 80525. 9.
Full names and complete mailing addresses of publisher, editor, and managing editor. Publisher, Greg Osberg,

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX
4868 Innovation Drive, Fort Collins, CO 80525, Editor, Hannah Baker, 4868 Innovation Drive, Fort Collins, CO
80525 , Managing Editor, Laura Hulsander, 4868 Innovation Drive, Fort Collins, CO 80525. 10. Owner: Peak
Media Properties; Gregory J. Osberg, CEO, 4868 Innovation Drive, Fort Collins, CO 80525. 11. Known bond-
Abundant Yarn LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 holders, mortgages, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent of more of total amount of bonds,
Ancient Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 mortgages or other securities: None. 12. Tax status: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months. 13.
Publisher title: Interweave Knits. 14. Issue date for circulation data below: Fall 2020. 15. The extent and nature
Clover Mfg. Co., Ltd.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 of circulation: A. Total number of copies printed (Net press run). Average number of copies each issue during
Chun-Nip Lee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 preceding 12 months: 66,113. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 68,175.
B. Paid circulation. 1. Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions. Average number of copies each issue during
Eucalan, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 the preceding 12 months: 28,068. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date:
Fairmount Fibers, Ltd.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 31,654. 2. Mailed in-county paid subscriptions. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12
Fiber House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 months: 0. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date:0. 3. Sales through dealers
and carriers, street vendors and counter sales. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding
Fiber Loft, The . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 12 months: 9,979. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 8,852. 4. Paid
Gosh Yarn It Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 distribution through other classes mailed through the USPS. Average number of copies each issue during the
preceding 12 months: 0. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0. C. Total
Green Mountain Spinnery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 paid distribution. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 38,047. Actual number of
Handcrafted Holidays. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 copies of single issue published nearest to filing date; 40,506. D. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and
Harrisville Designs, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45, 78 outside mail). 1. Free or nominal Outside-County. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding
12 months: 200. Number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 181. 2. Free or nominal rate
Hilos Y Marcas, S.A. DE C.V.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 in-county copies. Average number of copies each issue during the preceding 12 months: 0. Number of copies
Irish Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C4 of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0. 3. Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other Classes through
the USPS. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 17. Number of copies of single
IW: Advertising. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5, 49, 53, 57 issue published nearest to filing date: 14. 4. Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail. Average number
Knitting Off Broadway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78, 79 of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 970. Number of copies of single issue published nearest
Knotty Lady Yarns, LLC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78, 79 to filing date: 939. E. Total free or nominal rate distribution. Average number of copies each issue during
preceding 12 months: 1,187. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 1,134.
Oomingmak, Musk Ox Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 F. Total free distribution (sum of 15c and 15e). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12
Plymouth Yarn Co.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 months: 39,234. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 41,640. G. Copies
not Distributed. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 26,879. Actual number of
Rookery, The. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 26,535. H. Total (sum of 15f and 15g). Average number
Rust and Salt LLC | DuckFeetUSA.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C3 of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 66,113. Actual number of copies of single issue published
Signature Needle Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 nearest to filing: 68,175. I. Percent paid. Average percent of copies paid for the preceding 12 months: 97.0%
Actual percent of copies paid for the preceding 12 months: 97.3% 16. Electronic Copy Circulation: A. Paid
Simply Shetland, LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Electronic Copies. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 2,778. Actual number
Sin City Knit Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 2,563. B. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) + Paid
Electronic Copies (Line 16a). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 40,824.
Smoky Mountain Spinnery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 43,069. C. Total Print Distribution (Line
Tail Spinner, The . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months:
Universal Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C2 42,011. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 44,203. D. Percent Paid (Both
Print & Electronic Copies) (16b divided by 16c x 100). Average number of copies each issue during preceding
Westing Bridge LLC/ChiaoGoo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 12 months: 97.2%. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 97.4%. I certify
Woobee Knit Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 that 50% of all distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above nominal price: Yes. Report circulation
on PS Form 3526-X worksheet 17. Publication of statement of ownership will be printed in the Winter 2021
Woolbearers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 issue of the publication. 18. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager, or owner: Greg Osberg,
Yarn Store at Nob Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Publisher. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone
The advertisers’ index is provided as a reader service. Occasional last-minute changes may result in ads appearing on who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on
pages other than those listed here. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors. the form may be subject to criminal sanction and civil actions.

WINTER 2021 79 WWW.INTERWEAVE.COM


RAVELINGS

Gothic Knits
Inspiration

GETTY IMAGES/ GERARD VAN DEN AKKER


BY FIONA MUNRO

I
never know where I will next find inspiration for new knitting-
pattern designs. Often it will be when I am out for a walk or
when I let my mind wander as I’m falling asleep.
When I saw that the theme for this issue of Interweave Knits
was Gothic literature and architecture, I was excited but not imme-
diately sure what kind of design to propose. Initially stumped, I left
it there and figured inspiration would find me.
The next day, I went on one of my long walks in Aberdeen, Scotland,
where I live, as I often do on the weekend. With no particular route
in mind, I walked along the sandy Aberdeen Beach until I reached
the River Don, where I took the riverside path as it followed the
meandering river inland. I found myself in Old Aberdeen, a former
burgh of Aberdeen, filled with beautiful, old buildings. My favorite
of these buildings is St. Machar’s Cathedral, set amongst the trees on
the banks of the river. Completed in 1530, it is technically no longer
a cathedral, because it has no seat for a bishop and is, therefore, a
fortified high kirk, which is Scottish for church. It is striking, with its
twin towers in the style of fourteenth-century tower houses, stonework,
and stained-glass windows. I walked up the stone path and wandered
inside. Although I had walked past the cathedral, I had never ventured
inside before. As I entered, I was surprised by the beautiful interior,
which I had all to myself, and the contrast of simple stone walls against
the ornate wooden pews and paneled oak ceiling adorned with 48
heraldic shields. The simple shapes of the columns and natural
materials of the wood and stone contrast with the stunning stained-
glass windows bringing beautiful colors of light into the kirk.
This mesmerizing structure made me pause, and I realised I had
just found my Gothic architectural inspiration!
Moved by the dramatic shapes and ornamentation of the Gothic
style, as well as the incredible skill and craftsmanship, I sat and
started to sketch on a piece of paper that I had in my pocket. Once I
finished wandering around inside and outside, taking the building in
from all angles, I made my way home with my mind full of thoughts
of how to translate my rough scribbles into something that resembled
a Fair Isle chart. I knew I wanted to design something using two
strongly contrasting colors that would mimic the stone and wood
materials of the cathedral to show off the shapes and details of its
architecture and translate it into a softer medium.
Once home, I started working out the design from my initial St. Machar Wrap, pattern page 71
drawings. With some refinement, these turned into an intricate Fair
Isle chart. In order to best show off the beautiful pattern, I decided FIONA MUNRO is a knitting-pattern designer living in
that this complex design was best suited as a large rectangular wrap. Aberdeen, Scotland. She has been an avid knitter since she
This lovely wrap is the perfect functional accessory and also shows was taught by her grandmother to knit at six years old. Find
off an interpretation of some fascinating history and architecture in her on Ravelry as MunroSisters3.
an unexpected medium!

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