SECTION 11

CLUTCH
INDEX
Page
Page
Service Operations 11-2
General Description 11-1
11-2 Clutch and Brake Pedal 11-2
Maintenance and Adjustments 11-3
Clutch Linkage Adjustment 11-2 Clutch Assembly Replacement
Troubles-Remedies 11-4

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

Fig. 1 -Bent Finger Clutch Cross-Section

1. Flywheel 3. Pilot Bushing 5. Pressure Plate 7. Cover 9. Fork
2. Dowel-hole 4. Driven Disc 6. Diaphragm Spring 8. Throwout Bearing 10. Retracting Spring

The clutch linkage used in 1964 has no over-center

spring or clutch pedal sleeve assembly, and pedal
adjustment is made at the lower end of the pedal push
rod in the engine compartment. The clutch assembly is
enclosed in a 3600 bell housing which must be removed
to gain access to the clutch.
The 327 and 409 engines use a bent-finger diaphragm
type clutch assembly, fig. 1. All its integral release
fingers are bent to gain a centrifugal boost and insure
quick re-engagement at high engine speeds.
This type of clutch has the advantage of increasing
pressure plate load as the driven plate wears, and low
pedal efforts with high plate loads without requiring
over center booster springs on the clutch linkage. The
pressure plate is a high tensile strength iron designed
for maximum speed conditions.
Due to the clutch property of load increase with
wear, a new clutch should be properly worn or seated
in before being used for maximum performance. This
can be accomplished by making 20 to 50 normal starts
or by placing a .010" shim between the clutch cover
and the flywheel at each bolt location.
The clutch release bearing used with the bent finger
diaphragm clutch fig. 2 has an overall length of
approximately 11/4". A longer bearing will cause inabil
ity to obtain free pedal travel, especially as the clutch
wears, resulting in slippage and rapid wear. Fig. 2-Clutch Release Bearing Comparison

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 MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
CLUTCH LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
Refer to Figure 3

Clutch adjustment, for all normal wear, is made at

swivel on lower end of pedal push rod as follows:

1. Remove clutch pedal return spring.

2. Loosen nut "B" and back off from swivel approxi

mately ½ inch.

3. Hold clutch pedal push rod 1 so pedal is against

bumper stop and cross-shaft lever 2 in the
opposite direction so the throw-out bearing is
against clutch fingers. Adjust nut "B" to obtain
approximately 1/4" clearance between nut "B" and
upper edge of swivel.

4. Release push rod and cross-shaft lever and tighten

nut "A" to lock swivel against nut "B".

NOTE: Free pedal play should be ¼" to 1 ¼".

5. Install pedal return spring. Fig. 3-Clutch Linkage

SERVICE OPERATIONS
CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDAL
Refer to Figure 4
Removal
1. Remove retainers and disconnect push rods from
pedals.
2. Remove clutch pivot shaft retainer from end of
shaft.
3. Remove clutch pedal by moving it out far enough
to clear bumper bracket, then rotate pedal upward
to clear push rod and remove pedal completely.
NOTE: Brake pedal will also fall free and push
rod will hang from boot on master cylinder.
Inspection
1. Clean all metal parts with a good solvent.
2. Wipe nylon bushings clean with a clean cloth.
CAUTION: Nylon bushings should not be treat
ed with cleansing agents of any kind.
3. Inspect nylon bushings for wear or damage. Re
place if necessary.
4. Inspect the mating surfaces of the bushings and
replace necessary parts.
Installation
1. Install one nylon bushing on clutch pedal pivot
shaft and one in right side of panel brace.
2. Position brake pedal, making sure two bushings
are in brake pedal hub. Index the spring tip in
notch of support brace and brake pedal push rod
in master cylinder.
3. Reverse removal steps to complete installation.
4. Check clutch pedal free play and adjust if
necessary.
5. Check brake pedal adjustment and adjust push
rod if necessary.
NOTE: Check stop light switch adjustment for
electrical contact when brake pedal is de
pressed approximately %.

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CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
The clutch assembly is enclosed in a 360° aluminum
housing which must be removed to gain access to the
clutch assembly.
1. Remove transmission as outlined in Transmission
Section 13.
2. Disconnect clutch linkage spring from clutch fork
and let push rod hang free of fork.
3. Remove throwout bearing from fork.
4. Remove clutch housing cover plate screws and
clutch housing bolts, then remove housing on V-8
engines, the screw at oil filter may be removed last
while supporting the housing during removal.
NOTE: The cover plate will now hang from
starter gear housing.
5. Install Tool J-5824 to support the clutch assembly
during removal.
BRAKE PEDAL
LINKAGE
Fig. 4-Clutch and Brake Pedal
CLUTCH 11-3
6. Loosen the 6 clutch attaching bolts evenly, a little
at a time, until clutch diaphragm spring tension is
released; then remove bolts, clutch assembly and
pilot tool.
7. Slide clutch fork from ball stud and remove fork
from dust boot.
NOTE: Ball stud is threaded into clutch housing
and is easily replaced, if necessary.
8. Inspect clutch fork for wear at ball socket and
release bearing surfaces. Check ball spring tension.
This spring may be bent toward fork if necessary
to tighten tension.
9. Clean the fork and lubricate ball socket and re
lease bearing surfaces with graphite grease then
reinstall in clutch housing.
10. Reverse removal procedure to install clutch then
adjust linkage.
CLUTCH PEDAL
LINKAGE
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CLUTCH 11-4

TROUBLES AND REMEDIES

Symptoms and Probable Cause Probable Remedy
Fails to Release Pedal pressed to floor-shift lever does
not move freely in and out of reverse gear
a. Improper linkage adjustment excessive lash. a. Adjust linkage.
b. Improper pedal travel. b. Trim bumper stop and adjust linkage.
c. Loose or broken cross shaft lever. c. Tighten or replace ball studs or replace cross
shaft.
d. Worn bearing area on clutch gear retainer sleeve. d. Replace retainer.
e. Faulty driven disc. e. Replace disc.
f. Fork off ball stud. f. Install properly and lubricate fingers at throwout
bearing.
g. Clutch disc hub binding on clutch gear spline. g. Repair or replace clutch gear.

Slipping
a. Improper adjustment no lash. a. Adjust linkage.
b. Oil soaked driven disc. b. Install new disc and correct oil leak at its source.
c. Facing torn from disc or worn into rivets. c. Replace disc.
d. Warped pressure plate or- flywheel. d. Replace same.
e. Driven plate not seated in. e. Make 20-50 normal starts.
f. Driven plate overheated. f. Allow to cool-Check lash.

Grabbing
a. Oil on facing or burned or glazed facings.
b. Burned or smeared resin on flywheel or pressure
plate.
c. Linkage worn, broken or improperly installed.
d. Loose engine mountings.
e. Warped pressure plate or flywheel.
a. Install new disc.
b. Replace or repair as needed.
c. Tighten or replace mountings.
d. Replace pressure plate or flywheel.
e. Sand off if superficial, replace burned or heat
checked parts.

Rattling-Transmission Click
a. Oil in driven plate damper. a. Replace driven disc.

b. Throwout fork loose on ball stud or in bearing b. Check ball stud and retaining spring and replace
groove. if necessary.
c. Driven plate damper spring failure. c. Replace driven disc.

Throwout Bearing Noise with Clutch Fully Engaged

a. Improper adjustment. a. Adjust linkage.
b. Throwout bearing binding on transmission. b. Clean, relubricate, check for burrs, nicks, etc.
c. Insufficient tension between clutch fork spring c. Replace fork.
and ball stud.
d. Fork improperly installed. d. Install properly.
e. Weak linkage return spring. e. Replace spring.

Noisy
a. Worn throwout bearing. a. Replace bearing.
b. Fork off ball stud Heavy clicking b. Install properly and lubricate fork fingers at
bearing.

High Pedal Effort

a. Bind in linkage a. Lubricate and free up linkage.
b. Linkage out of adjustment. b. Adjust.
c. Clutch gear bearing retainer gauled. c. Replace use cast iron retainer.

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