Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Shineray Auto Repair Manual
Shineray Auto Repair Manual
(1) Inspect from the outlook on whether the connection and tighten situation between key and crucial parts satisfy
requirements, particularly on steering and brake devices such as universal joint sheath, brake bottom plate, brake
piping, wheels, steering tension rod sheath, steering sheath and gearbox etc.
(2)Inspect whether the specification, type and quantity of all oils and liquids satisfy requirements, including
gasoline, oil and cooling fluid, electrolyte, window washer tank, brake fluid, gearbox oils and oils for brake and
steering etc., and inspect whether there occurs the situations such as oil spills and leaking in the auto.
(3)Inspect the working status of voltage of storage battery, electrical equipment, lamplight, horn, instrument and
indicator light, etc. Inspect the installation of fuse wire within driving cab.
(4)Inspect whether the type, specification and pattern of wheels satisfy requirements, whether the bolt tightening
moment of wheels(100±10N.m)satisfies specified requirements and whether the inflation pressure of each wheel is
normal(including spare wheel) as well as the installations of valve core of wheels and wheel cowl.
(5) Inspect the connection and tightening status of all spare parts, especially the spare parts such as transmission,
steering, brake, suspension and wheel etc.
(6)Inspect whether the clutch and free pedal travel satisfy specified value and inspect braking system and free
pedal travel of braking, ensuring to remove the air within piping.
(7)Inspect external cleanness of auto, including painting, trimming and glass; Inspect internal cleanness of auto,
including saddle and internal trimming; Inspect status of windshield washing unit.
(8) Until normal work temperature after starting engine, heating of turbine, observe whether there exist
phenomena such as oil spills, gas spills, leaking and leakage of electricity.
(9)After putting into gear and starting to move, inspect the work situations of road tests for clutch, gearbox, hand
braking, foot braking and steering system.
1) Clutch: whether there occurs clickety-clacking and abnormal noise during operation.
2) Accelerator Pedal: shall be shown the phenomena with flexibility and no loose.
3) Gearbox: free shift, without the phenomena such as out of nimbleness, abnormal noise and out of gear.
4) Speedometer: During driving of auto, the pointer of speedometer shall be without sheering, when the auto speed
changes, the pointer runs stably.
5) Steering operational setting: whether the free play of steering wheel is normal, whether the control force is
appropriate and whether the automatic return ability could be realized after steering.
6) Foot braking: When braking at the auto speed of 40 km/h, the braking effect can be experienced, no derivation
during braking.
7) Hand braking: When lifting the handle of hand braking and when the auto is traveling at low speed 20 km/h, the
gearbox will be put into neutral, and the braking effect can be experienced.
8) Air conditioner: operate the buttons to inspect whether all the functions are normal.
9) Judge whether the noise of all parts is normal: during traveling of auto, especially at accelerating and
decelerating, please Notice whether there occurs obvious abnormal noise in all parts.
10) Inspect whether the technical materials of tool box and essential tool technology are comprehensive.
On account of processing and assembling errors, the frictional resistance of all the motional parts of new auto at
the time when it starts operation is much greater than that in normal situations. The running-in effect of initial
application period for auto produces enormous impact on service life, reliability of operation, economical
efficiency of the auto. Thereupon, the running-in regulations shall be strictly executed when the new auto is put
into use.
(2) Running-in regulations between driving within 1000km to 15000km: could gradually accelerate to the highest
speed or at highest steering driving by permission of the engine.
1) When driving the auto with steering meter, the neighboring bumping block with high speed will be changed into
and the permitted highest steering speed of engine within short time is 5500r/min. The permitted highest speed of
each bumping block is: below 20km/h for the bumping block 1; 30km/h for bumping block 2; 50km/h for bumping
block 2; 70km/h for bumping block 4; above 80km/h for bumping block 5.
2) Avoid making the engine runs at unnecessary high speed, converting into the bumping blocking with high speed
as early as possible brings benefits to saving fuel oil and reducing operation noise.
3) The steering speed of engine during driving is prohibited to be too slow, only when the engine runs strenuously,
will the low bumping block be converted into.
4) The speed and revolving speed listed in the specification are only suitable for the engine with normal
temperature. When the engine is cold, no matter at neutral or at each bumping block, the engine is prohibited to
runs at the highest revolving speed.
5) The new wheels are without best adhesive force at initial application, thus, the new wheels also requires for
running-in. During driving with the first 100km, the speed shall be kept slow and the driving methods also shall be
cautious.
6) The new braking friction plate also requires for running-in. During driving within the first 200km, it still has no
ideal frictional force, during this stage, if the braking effect is a litter bit weak, the pressure of the pedal could be
increased appropriately. This situation also applies to changing braking friction plate each time later on.
Correct driving of auto not only could give full play to good technical performance of the auto, but above all could
ensure the safety of driving. Therefore, as a driver, the operation of auto maintenance must be conducted well
before utilization of vehicles. And during the process of driving, the vehicle shall be used correctly according to
different road situations.
(1) Inspect fuel oil meter, to judge whether the fuel oil is needed to add.
(2) Inspect the oil level, to see whether the imprint of oil scale is within the mark of top and bottom limitation. Any
insufficiency, it shall be added promptly. When there occurs stoppage in lubrication system of the auto‘s engine or
the mechanical oil alarm lamp is lit up during the operation of engine, the operation of engine shall be stopped
immediately and the reasons shall be analyzed to remove promptly.
(3) Inspect whether the height of coolant level satisfies requirements, any insufficiency, it shall be added promptly.
(4) Inspect whether the braking level satisfies requirements, any insufficiency, it shall be added promptly.
(5) Inspect whether the electrolyte level of storage battery satisfies requirements, any insufficiency, the distilled
water shall be supplemented.
(6) Inspect whether the air pressure of the wheels satisfies requirements and whether the spare wheels are
comprehensive.
(7) Inspect whether the lamplight, direction indicator light and braking indicator light function well.
(8) Inspect whether the front and rear windshield glass are clean, whether the degree of rearview mirrors in and out
of the auto is appropriate and whether the wiper functions well.
(9)Whether the seats and belts have been adjusted to the appropriate position;
(11) Inspect whether the moving of each pedal is flexible, whether the free play is within specified scope, whether
the transposition is free and whether there exist jammed phenomena.
(12) Inspect whether the tool box is comprehensive and whether a proper amount of melt silk and bulb have been
prepared well.
(13) During long-distance driving, a proper amount of oils and coolant liquid are still needed to prepare.
(1) The safety belt shall be fastened well before utilization of vehicles each time and the headrest shall be adjusted
well according to figure.
(2) Be bound to Notice no object could exist to impede the operation of the pedal.
(3) No driving when tired. In general, a break shall be taken after driving for two hours.
(4) The reaction ability of the drivers will be influenced by alcohol, drugs and medicines. Therefore, driving is
prohibited after drinking wine or at absence of mind. The latest research achievements show: when the drivers use
mobile communication devices during driving, the descending degree of their reaction ability is even severer than
that after drinking wine. Thus, during the process of driving, the mobile communication devices shall be strictly
prohibited.
(5) In any case, the auto speed shall be suitable for the status of road and traffic. For example, it shall be
decelerated at the road with snow and ice, or at wet road or when it is trapped into traffic jam.
(6)For the sake of safety of drivers and others, please be sure to obey the traffic rules.
2. Starting engine
1) Before start the auto, move the gear selector to the neutral position, and pull the parking brake.
2) When start the auto with the manual transmission, step the clutch pedal to the end, and this needs drive the
engine only when engine is working,
3) Open the ignition switch, start the engine, but do not need to step the accelerator pedal.
Notice: Once start the engine, release the ignition switch immediately to prevent the starter from operating
passively.
4) After starting the engine, it not necessary to park the auto for preheating of the engine, and drive the auto after
starting.
Notice: Before the temperature of the engine reaches the normal temperature, do not make the engine
operate at high speed or step the accelerator pedal to the end.
1) When start the engine in cold condition, because the engine used in this auto is equipped with the continuous
fuel injection device, it can provide the suitable the fuel mixed by the oil and gas in any condition. This starting
process is not affected by the external temperature, and do not step the accelerator pedal before start and when start
the auto. If the engine is not started immediately, you should turn off the ignition switch and repeat it after about
half a minute.
2) If the engine fails to be started, it is possible that the fuse of the electrical or the fuse of the engine control system
is fusing.
3. Notice in driving
In order to play the technical performances of the vehicle, reduce the fuel consumption, reduce the adverse impacts
for the environment by the exhaust gas and noise, you should pay attention to the following matters in driving:
(1) Avoid to step the accelerator pedal suddenly, and should step the accelerator by the gentle way, this shall not
only reduce the fuel consumption, but also reduce the abnormal wear between the pollution and automobile internal
motion.
(2) Exchange the shift according to the need to make the auto drive in the economy shift to avoid the engine to
operate at the high or low speed.
(3) Drive the auto as stable as possible, the operation should be predictable, and the unnecessary acceleration,
braking, starting and parking make the fuel consumption increase. Avoid the sharp turns and emergency braking.
(5) Check the tire pressure regularly, and the lower pressure of the tire may increase the rolling resistance,
accelerate the tire wear and make the steel ring deformed.
(7) Use the heating, air conditioner, rear window heating device, headlamp and other ancillary electrical
equipments only when necessary.
(8) After driving at high speed for a long time, do not turn off the engine immediately, and make the engine operate
at the idling speed for two minutes to make the temperature reduce gradually.
(9) Before drive the auto for long distance, should check and make the driving preparation according to the safety
driving precautions.
If you have known this long-distance driving, the oil changing or other maintenance items will be expired, and need
to implement these work in advance. Especially, the changing of the brake fluid has the significance for the safety
of the vehicle driving.
(10) When drive the automotive under full load, the external temperature is too high or too low, the sand is serious,
the fuel quality is poor and other conditions, should take some special technical measures, such as: use the
lubricants with the viscosity which meets the requirements of the external temperature (select the viscosity grade of
the lubricants according to the appropriate external temperature scope), install the air filter with the special
efficiency, and the maintenance cycle shall be changed correspondingly. If the engine load is large, the replacement
cycle of the lubricant should be shortened.
(11) Need to observe all instruments and indicators in driving. In order to facilitate the driver, in addition to the
common instruments, increase various indicator warning devices and engine failure diagnosis indicator. They can
reflect the working conditions of all systems accurately, if there is the hidden fault, it shall issue the warning and
request the driver to pay attention it immediately to avoid the traffic accidents caused by the serious mechanical
failure, and the warning device needed to be paid attention to include:
(12) When drive the auto in the water, must reduce the speed and operate the auto carefully to prevent that the
water is sucked in the engine or wet the electrical equipment and cause the failures. After entering the water, restore
the brake performance immediately. When the surface water is more, do not pass through it forced.
(13) Do not attempt to change the vehicle as not to affect the normal technical condition of the vehicle and enjoy
the quality warranty.
(14) Maintain the repair the vehicles according to the regulations of the manufacturer strictly.
There is a tractive hook at the end of the bumper, and it is used to be towed by other vehicles.
(1) When tow or be towed, the connect the towline and tow bar. It should be Noticed to avoid the forcible traction
or sudden tug, otherwise, it may damage the tow line and happen the danger.
(2) Comply with the traffic laws and regulations related to the traction, and the alarm lights of the towing and
towed vehicles must be flashing.
(3) The driver of the towed auto should pay attention to that the tow line must be kept taut state.
(4) The towed auto must be turned on the ignition switch to facilitate the steering gear to rotate freely, and the turn
signal, horn, windscreen wiper can work properly.
1. Refueling properly
The quality of the fuel shall impact on the driving performance of the auto, performance of the engine and the
service life, and the fuel additives can improve the above performance, thus it is required to use the high-quality
fuel including the additives. If you can not buy the high-quality fuel including the additives, or if the engine occurs
the problems, such as difficult starting, unstable idle speed, descend power and other faults, you should add the
proper additives in refueling.
Pay attention to that the refueling mouth should be located in the small cover surface of the lower side panel
Behind the front door, the standard fuel tank capacity is 40L, after unscrewing the fuel tank cap, hang it on the
cover, and must use the refueling gun properly in refueling.
Description:
1) For safety reasons, do not carry the canned backup fuel to avoid to damage the oil reservoir in accident and the
overflowed gasoline may cause the fire.
2) When carry the fuel with the auto, please be sure to comply with the local traffic and safety regulations.
The auto has been added the high-quality engine lubricant before leaving the factory, in addition to the particularly
cold climate region, it can be as the full-year general-purpose lubricant. The high-quality lubricant is the
prerequisite which ensure the engine operation without faults and maintain the long life. Therefore, only use the
corresponding high-quality lubricant when add the lubricant or replace the lubricant.
(1) Check the lubricant level surface. When the engine is working, the consumption of the lubricant is very normal,
and the consumption of the lubricant can reach 0.138L/l000km. Therefore, must check the lubricant level surface
regularly, and it is better to check the auto in refueling every time.
When check the lubricant level, the auto should be maintained in a horizontal position. After stopping the engine
for a few minutes, so that the lubricant can be back to the lubricant tray. And then take out the dipstick wiping by
the clean cloth, and insert the dipstick into it to the place, and then take out the dipstick for reading, and the oil
level must be between the upper mark and the lower mark X.
The difference of the maximum oil level and the minimum oil level of the engine is about 1.OL.
(2) Make up the engine lubricant. Unscrew the refueling cover on the cylinder head , and use the dipstick to check
the oil height after adding the lubricant.
Notice: The oil level should not exceed the maximum mark, otherwise the lubricant may be sucked by the
crankcase breather. When make up the engine lubricant, do not allow the lubricant to drip on to the
high-temperature parts of the engine, otherwise, it may be burning.
After making up the lubricant, cover the fueling mouth. Insert the dipstick until it is locked, otherwise the
engine may flow out some lubricant in operating.
(3) Replace the engine lubricant. The load of the lubricant and the oxidation of the lubricant in working make the
nature of the engine lubricant change. Therefore, replacing time of the lubricant depends on the used load and the
used time. In the case of using SF Grade engine oil commonly, when the auto drives for 5000km, replace the engine
lubricant.
If the vehicle is driving in the special road sections or the region with the larger temperature range, you should
shorten the driving mileage of replacing the lubricant to ensure the reliable operation and safe driving.
Notice: The engine lubricant should not be added other things for mixture. The used lubricant must be
processed by the regulations strictly, and prohibit the children from contacting. In any case, do not allow the
lubricant flow into the drainage pipeline or the land.
The cooling system has been added the cooling liquid when the auto leaves the factory.
The cooling liquid is mixed by ethylene glycol and water at the rate of 5:5, the antifreezing capacity is -35℃, and it
has the excellent corrosion resistance performance. In addition, the additives can prevent the system to produce the
scale and improve the boiling point of the cooling liquid.
Based on the above excellent performance, the cooling system should use this kind of cooing liquid all year round,
and do not add the pure water at any time (especially in the summer or hot regions) so as not to reduce the
density of the cooling liquid. In order to ensure the normal function of the cooling liquid, the density of the cooling
If need to improve the antifreezing capacity of the cooling liquid, you can increase the ratio of ethylene glycol, but
the density of the cooling liquid should not exceed 60% (volume ratio).
In the cold region (below -40℃), prepare the cold protection and replace ―-40‖ethylene glycol engine antifreezing
liquid.
(1) Check the height of the cooling liquid level: the cooling liquid reservoir is located in the front bulkhead. The
cooling liquid level must comply with the regulations to meet the work requirements of the cooling system.
Therefore, check the level height regularly.
In order to check the cooling liquid level correctly, turn off the engine before inspection, and check the engine after
stopping operation. The cooling liquid reservoir should be transparent plastic container with the maximum (max or
H) and minimum (min or L) mark, and you can check the level without opening the reservoir.
Notice: When the engine is in the cold state, the cooling liquid level must be between the maximum and minimum
mark, once reaching the hot state, the level may be higher than the maximum mark.
Notice: If the cooling liquid is lost abnormally, it indicates that the cooling system may have the leakage fault,
at this time, adding the cooling liquid can not resolve the problem completely. Therefore, do not delay and go
to the authorized service station to check the cooling system immediately.
(2) When add the cooling liquid, turn off the engine, use the both to cover the cooling tank lid after cooling, rotate
it by the clockwise, remove the tank lid after reducing the pressure, and add the cooling liquid.
Notice: When the engine is in the hot state, the cooling system is still in the high-temperature and
high-pressure state, at this time, do not open the tack lid to avoid burn!
In the emergency case, if you add the pure water, must add the cooling liquid additives according to the regulations
to make the density of the cooling liquid restore to the normal state.
If the cooling liquid is consumed substantially, must add the cooling liquid for the engine in the cold state to avoid
to damage the engine.
When add the cooling liquid, do not make the level exceed the maximum mark of the tank. Because once the
engine reaches the hot state, the excessed cooling liquid shall overflow the cooling system by the pressure limiting
valve of the tank. After adding the cooling liquid, must tighten the tank cap.
Notice: The cooling liquid and the cooling liquid additives are the toxic substances! Thus, the additives must
be stored in the original container to prevent the children from contacting it, if must let out the cooling liquid
in the system, collect it and store it in the safe area. The released cooling liquid should not be used again, and
process the disposal cooling liquid according to the regulations of the environment protection law strictly.
4. Proper use of brake fluid
(1) Check the brake liquid level. The brake liquid tank is located on the left side of the front bottom. The brake
liquid level should comply with the regulations to meet the work requirements of the brake system.
The level should be between the liquid tank maximum (max or H) and minimum (min or L) mark.
The brake system of this vehicle is equipped with the friction lining to adjust the gap. Therefore, in the using
process, the brake liquid level may be declined slightly, this situation is normal without worry, however, the level is
declined or declined below the lowest mark in the short period, it indicates that the brake system is leaked, at this
time, you should drive your auto to the authorized service station for maintenance of the brake system.
(2) Replace the brake liquid. The brake liquid has the hygroscopicity, and it can absorb the moisture in ambient
air in the using process. If the moisture content of the brake liquid is excessive, it may corrode the brake system,
and the boiling point of the brake liquid can be reduced significantly, and this shall affect the brake effect and
safety, based on the above reasons, replace the brake liquid once a year.
Notice: If the brake liquid is used for a long time or frequent braking, the brake system can produce the
steam bubbles, and this shall impact the brake effect and driving safety.
In order to ensure the brake effect and driving safety, please must use the original brake liquid equipped by
the company and used the unused brake fluid.
Notice: The brake liquid is the toxic liquid! Therefore, it must be stored in the original sealed container to
prevent the children from contacting it! The brake liquid can corrode the paint of the auto body!
The treatment of the waste brake liquid is a highly professional work, must use the special tool, therefore it
should be replaced by the authorized service station.
In order to ensure the normal work performance of the transmission, please pay attention to filling the gear oil
regulated by the manufacturer, if the quality of the gear oil is not proper, it can accelerate the abnormal wear of the
gears and impact the use performance of the vehicle.
(1) The specification model of the gear unused by the transmission is 85W-90 GL-5 GB13895-1999, in order to
maintain the transmission better, please replace the gear oil once a year or traveling 50000km.
Notice: After the vehicle is driving at high speed or full load for a long time, if the oil level can not meet the
requirements, fuel it or discharge the oil timely (the drain plug is located lower of the bottom of the transmission oil
tank ). The transmission oil should be red, if the oil is brown or black, it indicates that it contains the friction
materials and a large amount of impurities. If the oil fluid is pink or white, replace it. Under the normal
circumstances, replace the transmission gear oil once a year or driving 50000km. If the traveling road surface
condition is poor, you should shorten the driving mileage of replacing the transmission gear oil to ensure the
reliability and safety of driving.
IV. Use of the body facilities and accessories
(1) If you are outside of the car, pull the door handle outward when open the door. Lock or unlock the front two
doors by the key, when open the door, the safety lock button is popped up, when lock the door, it will be back to the
original position.
(2) In the car, all doors (the lock of the front left door must be in the engagement state) can be locked by pressing
the safety lock button rod. As long as press the safety lock rod, you can not open the door whether from outside or
inside of the car.
Notice: Do not press the safety lock button to lock the door when the car is driving. So that the door can be
opened from the outside of the car under the emergency circumstances.
(1) Window lifter. The windows in the car can be opened and closed by hand operating crank of the door. When
rotate the glass lifting device handle clockwise from the left side, the glass of the door shall be dropped. Rotate the
handle counterclockwise, the glass shall rise; in the right side, it is converse. Notice: some configured middle door
window lifter is the Grade 2 window lifter, when the glass of the middle door is dropped to half, need to rotate
1/4~1/2 cycles, and then continue to rotate the glass of all middle doors.
In order ensure the best visual effect at any time, you should adjust the rear view mirror in driving.
Adjust the rear view mirror outside of the car manually. The outside rear view mirror should be adjusted to the
position where you can see the upside of your car. This position can ensure the maximum field of vision.
A large number of facts prove that the safety belt may provide the very good protection in the accident. Thus, you
should wear the safety belt before drive the car.
1) Three-point inertia. In the normal driving state, the safety belt can be expanded freely according to the need of
the passengers, however, the speed of the auto or other factors (such fast pulling or emergency brake) are changed,
the safety lockup mechanism shall lock it and maintain a certain tightening force.
Notice: Correct use of the safety belt is very important for playing its role.
2) Fasten the safety belt to the pelvic. Pull one end of the lock tongue of the safety belt from the front of the pelvis
slowly by hand, insert the lock tongue and connect it to the other side of the lock until hear the sound of loc, and
then pull it outside to check whether it is locked really or not.
3) Fasten the safety belt to the shoulder. The safety belt should be across the middle of the shoulder and then be
across the chest to close to the body.
5. Adjustment of the seat
(1) Forward and backward adjustment of the front seats: in order to ensure the safety, adjust the driving set whether
auto is static. The forward and backward adjustment method of the front seat is to pull the rod in the font of the seat
to move the seat forward and backward.
(2) The adjustment of the seat backrest angle is to toggle the rod next to the backrest by leaning forward of the
body. The backrest should not be tilted to the back excessively in driving, otherwise, it may affect the effect of the
safety belt.
(3) Seat of the rear two rows. The backrest and the cushion of the rear seats of some models are separated, and it
has the tilt forward function to increase the volume of the trunk. The method of tilting the backrest: Move the
front seat to the appropriate position to prevent from collision with the rear seat. And then pull the plastic rod on
the top of the backrest of the rear seat to title the backrest forward.
I. Maintenance table
Maintenance This table lists the maintenance requirements of the vehicles with the driving mileage of
interval: 80,000km, for the vehicle driving more than 80,000km, implement the same maintenance
by the same interval.
Determine the
interval according to Km (×1,000) 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
the mileage reading
or month, and it Miles (×1,000) 6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48
subject to the firs
arrival. Month 6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48
1. Engine
l-1.Drive belt - ︱ - R - ︱ - R
l-4.Engine oil (Grade SF engine oil) and After first maintenance, replace it every 5000 km or every six
engine oil filter months.
l-5.Engine oil (Grade SJ engine oil) and After first maintenance, replace it every 10000 km or every six
engine oil filter months.
3. Electrical system
4. Ignition system
5. Fuel
6. Brake
6-3.Brake liquid — ︱ — R — ︱ — R
7-1.Clutch ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱
7-2.Tire ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱
7-3.Wheel roulette ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱
7-4.Suspension devices ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱
7-5.Drive shaft — ︱ — ︱ — ︱ — ︱
7-7.Differential oil ︱ ︱ ︱ R ︱ ︱ ︱ R
7-8.Steering system ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱ ︱
7-9.All latches, hinges and locks
Notice:
“R”:Replacement, “J”:Inspection,“T”:Adjustment
If the auto is driving under the harsh conditions, it is recommended to perform the special maintenance
interval in the following table.
D-Driving in the very cold weather conditions and /or on the salt road
M
ain
ten
an
Code of harsh
Maintenance ce Maintenance interval
conditions
op
era
tio
n
Every 2,500km
R
--C--- Air filter element *1
Transmission (manual)
-B--EF- Every 20,000km or 12 months
and differential oil R
Notice:
“R”:Replacement
1. Engine
Drive belt
Warning: Before check and adjust the tension of the belt, disconnect the negative post of the battery.
1) Check whether the belt has the cracks, incision, deformation, wear and cleanliness or not. If necessary, replace it.
2) Check the tension of the belt, press the middle of the belt by the force of about 10kg, it shall sink about 7~
10mm.
Notice:
After replacing the belt, the tension shall be adjusted to: press the middle of the belt by the force of about
10kg, the subsidence value is 5~6mm.
2) If equipped with the air conditioning, remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt (refer to the air
conditioning compressor drive belt).
Check the air conditioning compressor drive belt (optional) 1. Drive belt
Check the wear, damage and tension of the belt. If necessary, replace 2. Crankshafte pulley
or adjust it in time. 3. Air conditioning compressor
When press the middle of the belt by the force about 10kg, the
subsidence vaue is 8~11mm.
2) Release the belt tension, and replace the old belt by the new belt.
Notice:
When replace the new belt, the tension is adjusted to: Press the middle of the belt by the force of 10kg, and
the subsidence value is 8~9mm.
2) Use the light and special mirror to check the timing belt wear, cracks, damage, oil and other conditions. If
necessary, replace it.
3) Check the clearance of the intake and exhaust valve, if necessary, adjust it.
4) Install the valve mechanism cover, and tighten the bolts according to the technical requirements.
If the temperature is more than 15℃ in summer, use SF15W-40, if the temperature is less than 15℃ in winter, use
1. Oil bottom shell
SF10W-30, and in winter, the northeast, Inner Mongolia and Xinjiang shall use SF5W-30.
2. Plug of oil discharge
Notice: Replace the corresponding engine oil according to the different temperature.
Before discharge the engine oil, you should check whether the engine oil is leaked. If it is leaked, please replace
the damaged parts before perform the following work.
1) Remove the plug of discharging the oil to discharge the engine oil.
2) After discharging the engine oil, clean the plug of oil discharge. And then install the plug of oil discharge and
tighten it according to the following requirements.
3) Use the engine filter spanner (special tool) to release the oil filter.
4) Smear the engine oil on the ―O‖ ring of the new engine oil filter.
5) Tighten the new engine oil filter on the filter base, until the filter ―O‖ ring
contacts with the installation surface.
Caution:
1. Oil filter
In order to tighten the engine oil filter appropriately, please pay attention to identifying the accurate position
of the filter “o” ring and the installation surface.
6) After contacting with the installation surface, use the engine oil filter spanner twist the filter 3/4 rings.
Pressing torque:(a):35N·m
7) Fill the engine oil until it reaches the sign of full oil on the
dipstick, and the filling hole is located in the tope of the cylinder
head.
8) Before check the oil level, start the engine for 3 minutes no load.
After stopping, check the oil level after 5 minutes. If necessary, fill
1. Sign of low oil level
the oil, until it reaches the sign of full oil on the dipstick.
2. Sign of high oil level
Refer to Section 1 of this chapter – Filling amount of engine oil
9) Check whether the engine filter and the plug of oil discharge are leaked.
Inspection
1) Visual inspection of the cooling system, check whether the horses of the
cooling system have the obvious leaks and cracks, check whether the horses are
damaged and check the tension of the pipe clamp.
2) Replace the horses with the leak, cracks and other damages. Replace all pipe
clamps without the appropriate tension.
3) Clean the front part of the radiator core. 1. Full liquid level mark
4) The test pressure of the cooling system and the radiator cover is 108kPa. If 2. Low liquid level mark
necessary, replace the radiator cover designed for the cooling system of this 3. Tank cover
vehicle. 4. Matching mark
5) Check the cooling liquid level and density. Refer to the inspection steps of Cooling Liquid Level in Section 6 of
Chapter II.
Warning:
When the engine and the radiator are still hot, do not remove the radiator cover to avoid the burn. If you
remove the radiator cover immediately, the steam and the hot water shall spray under the pressure.
Replacement
Model of filled cooling liquid: Fill “No. -20” ethylene glycol engine
cooling liquid, in winter, in the regions of northeast, Inner Mongolia,
Xinjiang and the regions with the temperature less than -20℃, fill “No.
1. Radiator
2. Radiator discharge plug
-4” ethylene glycol engine cooling liquid.
3) Remove the liquid tank, and discharge the cooling liquid completely.
5) Fill the quantitive cooling liquid for the radiator (refer to Section 6 of Chapter II), exhaust the air in the cooling
system, and then make the engine operate for 2-3 minutes at the idle speed, after stopping the operation, fill the
cooling liquid until the liquid level reaches the filling mouth of the radiator. Install and tighten the radiator cover.
6) Fill the cooling liquid to the liquid tank, until the liquid level reaches the sign of Full, and then cover the tank
head to make the matching signs on the tank and cover aligning.
Caution:
When replace the engine cooling liquid, and the temperature is less than -16℃ in winter, use the mixture
cooling liquid at the ratio of water of 50% and the ethylene glycol of 50%. When the temperature is more
than -16℃, use the cooling antifreezing liquid at the ratio of water of 70% and the ethylene glycol of 30%.
Even under the condition higher the freezing temperature, for the purpose of anticorrosion and lubrication,
use the mixed cooling antifreezing liquid at the ration of water of 70% and ethylene glycol of 30%.
Warning:
When the discharging system is still hot, do not contact with it to avoid burn. Any maintenance work of the
discharging system shall be performed after cooling.
Inspection
·Check whether the rubber installation parts are damaged and worn.
If the bots or the nuts are loosened, tighten them according to the
technical requirements. Refer to Chapter II.
Check whether there are the damaged, poor matching or misplaced components, or the slotting, hole, loosened
joints which may lead the discharged smoke to penetrate the vehicle or other damages.
·Ensure the sufficient clearance between the discharge system components and bottom plate of the body to avoid
that the overheating may damage the floor carpet.
Inspection
·Check whether the crankcase breather has the leaks and cracks, if it is
damaged, you should repair or replace it, check and ensure that the horse
joints are fastened.
3) Put the hand on the end of the crankcase ventilating volume control valve, and check whether it is vacuum. If it
is not vacuum, check whether the valve is blocked or not. If necessary, replace it.
4) After checking the vacuum, stop to operate the engine, and remove the
crankcase ventilating volume control valve. Shake this valve, listen
whether there is the click sound, if there is the click sound, and replace this
valve.
5) After inspection, remove the plug. And install the crankcase ventilating
volume control valve.
1) Check whether the horse is damaged, cracked or excessive bending by visual. Check whether all pipe clamps are
damaged and positioned properly or not.
3. Electrical system
Inspection
1. Pressure resistance 2. Cover
·Check al wires of the engine components are damaged or not visually.
Check the insulation (cracks) conditions, and all wire clips should be fastened.
4. Ignition system
Spark plug
Replacement
1) Remove the dust on the cylinder head around the spark plug.
2 ) Disconnect the high-pressure damping line on the spark plug. Pay attention to pulling the protective shield of
the high-pressure damping line.
3) Use the spark plug wrench to loosen the spark plug and remove the spark plug.
Notice:
Ensure to use the new spark plug with the regulated heating degree and si ze.
6) Connect to the spark plug high-pressure damping line, do not push the high-voltage line in connecting, and you
can only push the protection cover.
Inspection
Check whether the high resistance cable has the cracks or joints, the resistance data and the measurement procedure
should refer to Section 7 of Chapter III.
If it is damaged and the resistance value does not meet the requirements, replace it.
Notice:
Check and ensure that each high resistance cable terminal and joint have been fastened, and they have been
inserted in the corresponding components. Must replace all burned-out joints.
2) Connect to the new high resistance cable and clamp it by the clip firmly. Do
not push the high resistance cable joint in connecting, and you should push the
protective boot.
Ignition timing
5. Fuel
Inspection
Check the idling speed by the engine speed or special instrument, and use the special instrument to check the ration
of the air and fuel.
Inspection
1) Check whether the air filter is too dirty, damaged or has the oil by visual, if there are the above situations, please
replace the air filter timely.
2) Use the compressed air to clean the element by the exhaust hole of the filter element.
Notice:
If the auto is driving on the dusty road, clean or replace it every 2,500km.
Must replace the fuel filter in the ventilating area, and be away from the source of fire.
The fuel filter is located in the fuel tank, including the fuel pump
assemblies.
Inspection
Check whether the fuel tank, fuel pipe and joints have the leaks, horse cracks, damages or not, and ensure fasten all
pipe clamps.
If the fittings are leaked, repair them. If the horse is cracked, replace it.
6. Brake
Inspection
1) Remove the wheel and calipers, but do not remove the brake horse from the caliper.
2) Check whether the disc brake pad and the brake disc have the
excessive wear, damages, if necessary, replace it. Refer to Chapter VII.
The tightening torque of the caliper pin bolt should meet the technical
requirements.
Notice:
When step the brake pedal, if the front brake has the noise, check
whether the brake pad friction lining is worn seriously or not. If it is worn seriously, the right and left brake
pads should be replaced together.
Brake drum and brake shoe pad (rear)
Inspection
2) Check whether the brake drum and the brake friction lining are worn
and damaged or not. When remove the wheel and brake drum, check
whether the brake sub-pump is leaked or not. If necessary, replace it. Refer
to Chapter VII.
Inspection
When perform the inspection, the light intensity should be sufficient, if necessary, use the inspection mirror.
Check whether the brake horses and the oil pipe clamps are appropriate or not, whether have the leaks, cracks, jam,
wear, corrosion, bending, twisting and other damages. If necessary, replace it.
Check whether all pipe clamps are fastened, and the joints are leaked or
not.
Check the oil pipes and horses to avoid contacting with the sharp edges
and moving parts.
Caution:
After replacing any brake oil pipe and horse, must implement the 1. Fluid tank 1. Fluid tank
exhaust operation. 2. Fluid tank cover 2. Fluid tank
Brake liquid inspection cover
Check whether the brake master pump and liquid tank are leaked or not.
If the liquid level is below the minimum liquid level of the liquid tank, make up it by the regulated brake liquid.
Brake liquid:
Caution:
As the auto has been filled the brake liquid before leave the factory, if need to fill or make up it, you should
use the same brake liquid, otherwise it may cause the serious damages.
Do not use the expired and used brake liquid, or the brake which is not stored in the sealed container.
Replacement
Drain the brake liquid in the brake system completely. Fill it by the above recommended brake liquid, and exhaust
the air.
Brake pedal
Inspection
Inspection
Check whether the brake handle tooth tip is worn or damaged. If it is worn or damaged, replace the parking brake
handle.
Check whether the operation and travel of the parking brake handle are correct. If necessary, adjust it.
Inspection and adjustment procedures refer to Chapter 5 Inspection and Adjustment of Parking Brake.
1. Clutch pedal
Clutch inspection
Check the free travel of the clutch pedal. The inspection adjustment procedures refer to Section 2 of Chapter 6.
“a” free travel of the pedal is 15~25mm
Tie
Inspection
Check whether the tire is worn or damaged excessively. If it is poor, replace it.
Check the pressure of each tire, if it does not comply with the technical
requirements, adjust the pressure value.
Notice:
Find out the regulated tire pressure from the tire pressure plate or manual 1. Wear indication pattern
equipped with the vehicle.
Wheel
Check whether the wheel rim has the indentation, deformation and cracks. If the wheel rim is damaged seriously,
must replace it.
Check whether the bearing of the front wheel is worn and damaged, and has the noise or clicks. Refer to Section 1
of Chapter V Inspection of Front Suspension.
Check whether the bearing of the rear wheel is worn and damaged, and has the noise or clicks. Refer to Section 1 of
Chapter V Inspection of Rear Suspension.
Wheel nuts
Check whether the wheel nuts are fastened, if it is not fastened, fasten it by the regulations again.
1. Front tie
2. Rear tie
3. Reserved tire
Suspension device
Inspection
Check whether the front/rear shock absorber has the oil leak, indentation or other damages on the bushing, and
check whether the end of the base is damaged, if it is damaged, replace it.
Check whether the front/rear suspension device is damaged and loosened, and check whether the components are
worn or lubricated.
Check whether the dustproof sealed cover of the front cantilever ball head pin is leaked, released, torn or damaged.
Check whether the suspension bolts and nuts are fastened or not, if necessary, fasten it again, if the component is
damaged, repair or replace it.
Drive shaft
Inspection
Check whether the universal joint and spline of the drive shaft has the clicks, if there is the click, replace the
damaged components.
Check whether the collar-head fork bolts and nuts of the drive shaft are fastened or not, if necessary, fasten it again.
Tightening torque
(a):23±5N·m
Inspection
Check whether the transmission gear has the oil leak, if have, repair the leaking position.
When check the oil level, ensure the auto flat.
Remove the oil level plug of the transmission. Check the oil level by the oil filling
hole/oil level plug hole.
When remove the oil level plug, the oil outflow from the oil level hole, it indicates that it has been filled to the
position.
If it is found that the lack of the fuel, fuel it by the regulated oil and make the oil level reach the oil level hole.
The regulated oil refer to the instruction of the oil replacement of Drive System of Chapter IV.
Replacement
1) Make the auto flat. Put the oil container under the body, and remove the oil discharge plug for discharging the
oil.
2) Smear the sealant on the oil discharge plug, and then tighten the oil discharge plug by the regulated torque.
3) Fill it by the regulated oil and make the oil level reach the oil level hole.
4) The recommended oil, oil volume and tightening torque data refer to Chapter Iv.
Location
Winter Summer XC4F18 engine DL465Q5
engine
Remove the oil level plug of the differential. Check the oil through the oil
level plug hole roughly.
1. Oil discharge plug
2. Oil filter/oil level plug
When remove the oil level plug, the oil shall outflow from the hole, and it indicates that the oil has been filled to
the place.
If it is found that the lack of the oil volume, fill the regulated oil and make the oil level to the oil level hole.
The regulated oil refer to the replacement instruction of ―Vehicle Maintenance‖ of Section 5 of Chapter III.
Replacement
1) Make the auto flat. Put the oil container under the body, and remove the oil discharge plug for discharging the
oil.
2) Smear the sealant on the oil discharge plug, and then tighten the oil discharge plug by the regulated torque.
3) Fill it by the regulated oil and make the oil level reach the oil level hole.。
4) Tighten the oil filling plug according to the regulated torque, and the recommended oil, oil volume and
tightening torque data refer to Chapter IV.
Steering system
Inspection
Make the auto drive straightly, check whether the clearance of the steering wheel is appropriate, and check whether
the is there clicks or not.
·Check whether the bolts and nuts have been tightened or not, if necessary, tighten it again. If the component is
damaged, repair or replace it.
·Check whether the steering rod is loosened or damaged. If it is loosened or damaged, repair or replace it.
·Check whether the steering rod protective boot and the steering pinion case are damaged or not (leak, tear, loosen,
etc.). If it is damaged, replace it by the new case.
·Check whether the universal joint of the steering shaft has the clicks and is damaged, if it has the clicks and is
damaged, replace it by the new components.
·Check whether the steering wheel is steering around. If the steering is bad, repair or replace it.
·Check whether the bolts and nuts are tightened or not, if necessary, tighten it again. If it is damaged, repair or
replace it.
Notice:
Detail description of the steering wheel calibration. Refer to Chapter V Steering Wheel Calibration.
1. Tie rod end boot
2. Steering gear case
3. Universal joint
Inspection
Check whether the switch of the front door, rear door and back door are flexible and fastened or not. Refer to
Chapter IX.
Inspection
Check whether the shift form is flexible, has the abnormal noise or not.
8. Final inspection
Warning: When implement the road test, in order to avoid any accident, implement it in the safe area.
Door
Check whether the opening and closing of each door are flexible, and the door is fastened or not.
Seat
Check whether the front seat backrest governor mechanism is locked firmly in the allowed angle.
Seat belt
Check whether the seat belt device (including the reinforcing plate, buckle, pinch plate telescopic device and
fasteners) is damaged or worn or not.
Check the electrolyte level of all battery is located between the up and below liquid level on the battery case.
maintenance free battery
Check whether the accelerator pedal operation is flexible or not, and it should not be interfered or locked.
Warning:
Before inspection, there must be the enough space around the auto. Ensure the parking brake and foot brake
reliable, and do not step the accelerator pedal. If start the engine, turn off the ignition device immediately.
These preventive measures are to avoid that the carelessness cause the personal injury or property damages.
Put the stick shift in ―N‖ neutral position, when step the clutch completely, start the engine.
Exhaust system inspection
Clutch
When step the clutch pedal, the clutch shall be fully released.
When release the pedal to accelerate, the clutch shall not slip.
Check the shift of the shift or selector in all positions is flexible, the transmission performance in any position is in
good condition or not.
Brake
[Foot brake]
Check whether the brake force applied to all wheels are even or not.
[Parking brake]
Warning:
When park the auto on the steep road, ensure that there is nothing in front to avoid the personal injury and
property damages. Even the auto starts to move, it can implement the foot brake immediately.
When park the auto on the road with the gradient of 30%, if the pull up the brake level fully, ensure that the parking
brake is effective completely.
Steering
Check the stability of the steering wheel, and ensure that there is no the unstable and extremely heavy
phenomenon.
Engine
Check the body, wheel and power transfer system without abnormal noise and abnormal vibration or any other
abnormal circumstance.
Measurement instruments
Check whether the working of the odometer, speedometer, fuel gauge, and thermometer are accurate or not.
Light
Windscreen defroster
When the heater or air conditioning is working, check the air exhausted from the defroster regularly.
When implement the inspection, turn the fan switch to the position of ―HI‖.
Up to now, ―Jinbei Haixing‖ series microcar uses DL465Q5, XC4F18-T, XC4F18-F, LJ465QR1E2 and other
engines according to the needs of the customer; Chongqing Xinyuan Auto Co., Ltd. uses DL465Q5 and XC4F18-F
engine, DL465Q5 and XC4F18-F received the user‘s favor by the excellent quality, therefore, this book is mainly
by the maintenance of DL465Q5 and XC4F18-F engine.
DL465Q5 engine appearance picture
I. Composition of engine
The engine is composed of two mechanisms and four systems: connecting rod, valve gear, fuel injection electronic
control system, lubrication system, cooling system, starting system.
(1) Organism group includes: cylinder block, cylinder head, cylinder gasket, cylinder head fastening bolts, oil
bottom shell, etc.
(2) Piston connecting rod group includes: piston, piston ring, piston pin, connecting rod, connecting rod bearing,
connecting rod bolts, etc.
(3) Crankshaft flywheel includes: crankshaft, flywheel, crankshaft bearing, timing gear, etc.
(1) Valve group includes: intake and exhaust valve, valve guide pipe, valve spring, valve race, valve lock, etc.
(2) Valve drive group includes: camshaft, timing gear, synchronous tooth drive belt, tension pulley and adjustment
device, rocker arm, rocker arm shaft, valve clearance adjustment device.
3. Fuel injection and electronic control system, includes:
(1) Fuel injection input, output device and various sensors, mainly include: engine speed and crankshaft position
sensor, intake pressure temperature sensor, joint valve position sensor, speed sensor, oxygen sensor, etc.
(2) Fuel supply and injection device, mainly include: fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator, fuel
injector, etc.
(3) Intake device, mainly includes: air filter, joint valve body, idling speed control valve, intake manifold.
(4) Gasoline vapor collection device: active carbon filter, carbon canister control valve.
(5) Ignition device includes: 1. ignition coil, 2. spark plug, 3. phase sensor, 4. ECU.
(6) Exhaust device includes exhaust manifold, exhaust pipe, muffler, catalytic converter.
(7) The computer and its control devices include the fuel injection control, fuel injection timing control, ignition
control, idling speed control, etc.
Oil bottom shell, oil pump, oil filter, oil passage, instrument, sensor, etc.
5. The cooling system includes: radiator, water pump, electric fan, thermostat, water
thermometer, sensor, heater exchanger, etc.
6. Power supply and starting system include: battery, starter, generator (belt regulator), etc.
The engine is the water-cooled, 4-cylinder and 4-stroke gasoline engine, and uses SOHC (single overhead
camshaft) mechanism. SOHC should be installed on the cylinder head, and it is driven by the timing belt and a
pair of timing gear crankshaft.
The auto engine is composed of many precisely machined parts, the surface accuracy of these parts is high, and
must use the spiral micrometer, cylinder bore instrument to measure.
Therefore, when maintain any part in the engine; the care and cleaning are very important.
After reading this section, the maintenance procedure of cleaning and protecting the machine surface and friction
surface are the important parts. Even there is no the special provisions, you should also develop the good work
habit.
In assembly, smear the enough engine oil on the friction surface to facilitate to protect and lubricate the internal
work surface.
When remove the valve, piston, piston ring, connecting rod, connecting rod bearing, crankshaft bearing for
maintenance, implement it according to the regulations. In assembly, install then in place according to the same
position and matching surface of disassembly.
Before maintain the engine, remove the battery cable.
If the cable is not removed, it may damage the harness or other electronic components.
According to the regulations of this manual, the part number of 4 cylinders of the engine from the front crankshaft
pulley to the flywheel is No.1, 2, 3 and 4. Such as the left picture in this page.
Please read the following knowledge related to the engine maintenance carefully. This is very important to prevent
the failures, and shall help improve the reliability of the engine.
When lift the engine, place the jack on the ground and under the oil bottom shell. As there is the small clearance
between the oil bottom shell and oil pump filter, incorrect operation method may cause the deformation of the oil
bottom shell and damage the oil sensing devices.
Notice: When the engine is working, the electrical system may be damaged by the serious short circuit.
When implement the maintenance work, be sure to remove the negative connecting wires of the battery.
At any time, after removing the air filter, air throttle, intake manifold, cover the inlet to prevent the extraneous
matter from entering accidentally, if you do not start the engine by this way, the impurities may enter the cylinder
along the intake channel to cause a wider range of failures.
When remove the cable plug connectors, you only pull the connector and do not pull the harness, for the connector
with the lock, be sure remove it after pressing the lock. If you remove it without pressing the lock, it may damage
the plug connectors. When connect the lock connector, insert it until hear the sound of ―click‖, and it indicates that
it has been connected reliably. As shown in the following right picture.
Replacement
Oil filter
Replacement
Oil pressure alarm
Replacement
Cylinder head cover
Replacement
Cooling fan
Replacement
Fuel pump
Replacement
Intake manifold
Replacement
Water pump
Replacement
Pulley (crank, water pump)
Replacement
Timing belt cover
When repair the above parts and components (replacement, inspection or adjustment), it is not necessary to
disassemble the engine.
Ⅳ Engine removal
The repair to some parts of the engine needs to remove it. The
procedures for such removal are as follows:
(1) Loosen the fuel tank cap to release the fuel pressure.
(2) Remove the front seats, and then dismantle the central elements in
the engine compartment together with the gear lever and brake bar.
1. Radiator
(3) Remove the accumulator and its base plate. 2. Drain plug
(4) Let the coolant and transmission oil out.
(5) Tear the wire harness tube clamp of the engine down from the car body or the intake manifold.
(7) Remove the minus earth wire of the accumulator form the intake
manifold.
(8) Dismantle fuel cutoff solenoid wires and water temperature sensor
leads.
(9) Remove the vacuum solenoid leads and ECT sensor connector of air
conditioner (if any).
2. A/C vacuum solenoid 3. ECT sensor
(10) Remove the wire terminals and outlet terminals of the generator. 4. A/C ECT sensor
(11) Remove the air filter.
(14) Remove the oil inlet pipes and oil return pipes.
(15) Remove the heating and ventilation pipes from the inlet manifold.
(16) Remove the inlet pipe of the radiator of the fluid reservoir hose from
the inlet manifold.
(17) Remove the water inlet hose of the heating ventilator from the inlet manifold and then remove the outlet hose
of the radiator from the water inlet pipe.
(19) Remove the brake booster hose from the inlet manifold.
(20) Remove the switch leads of the compressor from the compressor of air conditioner (if an air conditioner is
equipped).
(25) Remove the terminals from the starting dynamo, and the
positive electrode wire from the accumulator.
(27) Remove the switch lead terminations from the reversing lights.
(29) Remove the high voltage cable from the ignition coil.
(31) Remove the exhaust manifold cover and then remove the engine earth lead from exhaust manifold.
(32) Remove the clutch cable from the clutch release arm and transmission housing.
(35) Put the transmission special lifter under the engine with the transmission. When use the lifter, ensure that it
plane can support the whole oil pan evenly, even removing the bracket bolts of the rear suspension, the engine
with
(37) Before drop, check again and determine whether all pipelines and links have been removed from the engine
and transmission.
(39) Remove the reinforcing plate of the transmission to make the engine and transmission separate.
(40) Remove the engine bracket, if necessary, replace the suspension cushion.
Cylinde
Connecting rod
r pad
Cylinder
body
Flywheel
Body group
Crankshaft
The crankshaft connecting rod bear great heat load and mechanical load, the wear is seriously and is higher than the
failure rate of the assembly, the common faults include:
1. Detonation
Detonation is a kind of abnormal combustion noise, and the main reasons for this failure include:
(2) The compression ratio of the engine is larger, and there are too much carbon in the burning room or there is the
hot point.
(3) Work under the large load for a long time, or the cooling system is abnormal to make the engine overheating.
(4) The spark advance angle is too small (the ignition time is too late).
It is worth noting that: for the electrostatic spray engine equipped with the detonation sensor, the sensitivity
of the detonation caused by the above reasons is lower, even avoid it.
2. Knock
The knock is a kind of abnormal sound by knocking the cylinder wall in the reversing movement of the piston, the
reasons caused this failure include:
(1) The wear of the piston skirt and the cylinder wall can cause the larger gap of the cylinder wall.
(4) The cylinder gap is larger in assembly, especially knock is more obvious in the cooling state, and there is
―Dangdang‖ sound.
The water leakage is that the cooling water flow from the cooling system to the cylinder, oil bottom shell and
outside of the engine, and air leakage is that the air in the cylinder leak into the crankshaft case and outside of the
engine in the compression and working process. The main reasons caused this failure include:
(1) The joint surface of the cylinder block and head is warping, and the roughness exceeds the required value.
(3) The tightening sequence of the fastening bolts of the cylinder head does not comply with the requirements, or
the tightening torque value does not meet the requirements.
(4) There are other foreign body in addition to the cylinder pad on the joint surface of the cylinder body and head.
(5) The cylinder block and head have the cranks, and the joints of the cooling system pipeline are leaked.
4. Cylinder score
The cylinder score is that there is the grooves along the direction of the piston movement on the smooth cylinder
wall, and the main reasons include:
(1) The air filter is useless, so that make the mixed air, dust and impurities entering the cylinder exceed the
standard.
(3) The piston ring is broken, or the carbon in the cylinder is too much.
(4) The various reasons cause that the piston skirt is expanded excessively to cause the cylinder locking
phenomenon.
5. Excessive oil consumption (generally, after driving 100 km, the “pump oil” should not exceed 10% of
consumption)
The oil consumption exceeds the normal value too much, and the reasons cause this phenomenon include:
(1) The gap between the piston and cylinder wall is too large, and more lubricant entering the combustion chamber:
(2) The piston ring lost its elasticity or is stuck in the ring slot, the direction of the distorted ring (non-rectangular
cross-section gas ring) is reverse to make more lubricant enter the combustion chamber.
(4) The mouth of the gas ring and oil ring are matching.
6. Main bearing, connecting rod bearing (commonly known as big and small shell) abnormal sound. The
main reasons include:
1. Cylinder head
Notice:
Do not use any tool with the sharpening edge scrape the carbon deposit, when scrap the carbon deposit,
please do not scratch the metal surface. The valve and valve seat are the same.
Check whether the intake and exhaust port of the cylinder head, combustion chamber
and cylinder head surface have the cracks or not.
Use the straightedge and thickness gauge to check the flatness of 6 parts, if exceed the
following given limiting value, use the flat plate and about 400# sandpaper to grind the
sealing surface. Put the sandpaper on the flat plate, grind the flat, and grind the convex parts, if this fails to meet
the requirements, please replace the cylinder head. (water grinding diamond sandpaper)
Due to the deformation of the sealing surface, the air in the combustion chamber is often leaked from this sealing
surface. This leakage shall cause that the output power is decreased.
Use the straightedge and thickness gauge to check the combining surface of the cylinder intake (exhaust) manifold
to determine whether these surfaces must be grinding, or the must replace the cylinder head or not.
2. Cylinder·
Check the cylinder wall scratches, roughness or convex parts with excessive wear, if the cylinder wall has the
roughness, scratches or convex parts, bore the cylinder again and use the oversize piston.
Use the inside micrometer to measure the diameter of two locations of the cylinder as shown in the picture, if
there are the following phenomenon, bore the cylinder again.
·The differences of the measurement of two positions as shown in the picture exceed the roundness limiting value
(conical degree).
65.450-65.475mm(465)
Standard
73.97-73.99mm(474)
65.700-65.725mm(465)
Oversize 0.25mm
74.00-74.01mm(474)
65.950-65.975mm(465)
Oversize 0.50mm
74.01-74.02mm(474)
Notice: in four cylinder holes, if need to increase the size of any hole, increase the size for 4 cylinder holes at
the same time, and the size of 4 holes should be consistent.
Cylinder boring
1)When any cylinder is needed to bore again, all other cylinders must be boring at the same time.
2)Select the corresponding piston of increasing the size according to the cylinder wear volume.
D=A+B-C
C:Honing margin=0.02mm
Notice: Before re-boring cylinder, install all main bearing heads in place, and tighten it by the
regulated torque to avoid the deformation of the bearing hole.
Use the straightedge and thickness gauge to check the deformation conditions of the top surface, if the
flatness exceeds the regulated value, correct it.
Piston
·Check whether the piston has the abnormal wear and cracks, if have, replace it.
·As shown in right picture, must measure the piston diameter in the vertical direction with the piston pin
hole at the position 15mm away from the piston skirt.
·Piston clearance:
In order to determine the piston clearance, must measure the cylinder diameter and piston diameter. The
piston clearance the difference between the cylinder diameter and piston diameter, and it must be in the
following given regulated scope.
If exceed the regulated scope, must implement re -boring cylinder and use the piston of increasing the
size.
Notice: Calculate the piston clearance by the cylinder diameter measured at the stop position (2).
·Smear the oil on the piston pin, push it by the finger at the room temperature, the
piston pin should be installed in the piston pin hole easily.
·Check the piston pin, the wear and damage conditions of the connecting rod
small end pin hole and piston pin hole, pay special attention to the small end hole
bushing, if the piston pin, connecting small end pin hole, piston pin hole are worn
or damaged seriously, please replace the piston pin, connection rod or piston.
Check the piston clearance in the small end. If the small end is worn or damaged
seriously, if the clearance exceeds the limiting value, please replace the
connection rod.
Standard: 0.003~0.016mm
One
0.15~0.30mm 0.6mm
ring
Piston ring
Two
open 0.15~0.30mm 0.6mm
rings
clearance
Oil
0.20~0.70mm 1.8mm
ring
Notice: Before put it in the plug ring, remove the deposited carbon, and then
Clean the cylinder top.
Connecting rod
Big end side clearance:
After installing the connecting rod according to the correct assembly process, check the connecting rod big end side
clearance, if the side clearance exceeds the regulated limiting value, replace the connecting rod.
Parallelism of small and big ends of the connecting rod.
Use the straightening devise to check the parallelism of the small and big axis, if it exceeds the regulated limiting
value, replace it.
Check the uneven wear or damage conditions of the connecting rod journal.
Use the micrometer to check the crankshaft connecting rod journal diameter, if the crankshaft connecting rod
journal is damaged or the roughness exceeds the limiting value, replace the crankshaft or refer to Step 6 connecting
bearing clearance lapping journal.
Connecting rod shell:
Check whether the connecting rod has the pits, ablation or surface spelling conditions, and observe the contacting
graphics, if it is found that the shaft shell quality is unqualified, replace it. Equip with two connecting rod shaft
shells:
Bearing shell with the standard size and bearing shell reducing 0.25mm. In order to distinguish
Their sizes, print 0.25 on the back of the bearing shell, but the bearing shell with the standard
Size has no the part number.
1. Connecting rod bearing head
Connecting rod bearing shell clearance: 2. Arrow mark
1) Before check the clearance, clean the bearing shell and connecting rod journal. 3. Crankshaft pulley side
6) If use the new bearing shell with the standard size, the clearance still not reaches the limiting value, grind the
crankshaft connecting rod journal by the following procedures.
-Install the bearing shell with the size of 0.25mm to the connection
big end.
-Measure the hole diameter of the connecting rod big end (install the
bearing shell with the reduced size)
-The lapping journal make it to the following dimensions.
Finishing connecting rod journal diameter = connecting rod big end
hole diameter (include the bearing shell with the reduced size)
-0.048mm
-Confirm whether the bearing shell clearance is within the above standard value or not.
6. Crankshaft
Crankshaft straightness
Use the micrometer to measure the offset of the central journal. Rotate the crankshaft slowly, if the straightness
exceeds the limiting value, replace the crankshaft.
Tightening torque
(a):43~48N·m
Use the dialgauge to read the crankshaft axial displacement.
If it exceeds the limiting value, replace the new thrust plate with the standard size or oversize to reach the thrust
clearance requirements. 1. Thrust plate
The difference of the diameter of different points at the same profile location in the diameter and length direction
measured by the micrometer can reflect the uneven wear of the crankshaft, if any journal is damaged seriously or
the uneven wear exceed the cylindricity limiting value, grind the journal or replace the crankshaft.。
Roundness limiting value of crankshaft and conical degree: 0.01mm
1. Upper bearing
2. Oil slot
General description
1. One side of crankshaft pulley
The bearing shell with the standard size and reducing 0.25mm are available
2. One from theofstock,
side each kind of them has 5
the flywheel
kinds of tolerance series for available.
The upper bearing shell has the oil slot as shown in the picture. It shall be installed
on the cylinder block.
According to the instruction of the picture, when install the bearing shell head, print
the arrow and number on each main bearing shell, make the arrow mark point to
one side of the crankshaft pulley, and then install each bearing shell by the
sequence of 1,2,3,4,5 and tighten the bearing shell head to the regulated torque.
Tightening torque
(a):43~48N·m
Inspection
Check whether the bearing shell has the rust spots, scratches, wear or damages or not.
If there are abnormal conditions, replace the upper and lower bearing shell, and do not replace half of the bearing
shell.
Standard 2.500mm
The new standard bearing can generate the correct gap. If it can‘t, must grind the crankshaft journal to
facilitate to use the bearing with small size of
0.25mm. After selection of new bearing, check Standard Limiting value
the clearance again. Bearing
clearance
0.020~0.040mm 0.06mm
Selection of main bearing shell
Standard bearing shell:
If the main bearing shell is in the abnormal state, or the clearance of the main bearing shell does not meet the
regulations, select the new standard bearing shell for installation according to the following procedures.
1) Firstly, check the diameter of the journal by the following methods. As shown in the picture, No.1
cylinder crankshaft arm has 5 printing numbers.
2)Three number (―1‖, ―2‖ and ―3‖) represent the diameter of the following journal.
The first, second, third, fourth and fifth (from left to right) numbers
represent the journal diameter on the bearing head of No.―1‖, ―2‖,
―3‖, ―4‖ and ―5‖.
Such as 465 engine in the above right picture, the first (left-most)
number ―3‖ represents that the journal diameter of No. ―1‖ bearing
head is 37.482-37.500mm, and the second number ―1‖ represents
that the journal diameter on No. ―2‖ bearing head is
37.982—38.000mm.
2) And then, before install the main bearing shell, check the diameter
of the bearing head boring hole. On the cylinder block assembly surface, the positions of 4 printed letters are shown
in the picture.
Three letters (―A‖, ―B‖ and ―C‖) represent the diameter of the following bearing head boring holes.
A 49.000~49.006mm(474)
B 49.006~49.012mm(474)
C 49.012~49.18mm(474)
The first, second, third, fourth and fifth (from left to right) numbers represent the boring hole diameter of No.―1‖,
―2‖, ―3‖, ―4‖ and ―5‖ separately.
such as 474 engine, the first letter (left-most) ―B‖ represents that the bearing head boring hole diameter of No. ―1‖
is 49.006—49.012mm, and the fifth letter (right-most) ―A‖ represents that the bearing head boring hole diameter
of No. ―5‖ is 49.000—49.006mm.
3) There are 5 kinds standard main bearing shell with different thickness. In order to facilitate to distinguish them,
paint the following colors according to the positions in the picture.
Colored point
The colors marked on the bearing hell center indicate the following thickness respectively.
Black 1.989~1.993mm
Yellow 1.995~1.999mm
Blue 1.998~2.002mm
4) According to the numbers printed on No. 2 and No.3 cylinder crank arms and the printed letters on the assembly
surface of cylinder block, refer to the following table to make sure that new standard bearing shells are fitted to
journals.
l 2 3 1.Journal diameter
(number)
Letters printed on A Green Black None 2.Bearing cap bore
assembly surface diameter(letter)
(bearing cap bore
diameter) B Black None Yellow
Black/red 2.124~2.128mm
Yellow/red 2.130~2.134mm
Blue/red 2.134~2.137mm
If necessary, crank journals shall be grinded, and small bearing shells are chosen by the following method.
1) Grind journals to the following finish sizes.
2) Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of grinded journals. The measurement shall be along two directions
which are perpendicular to each other so as to check whether they are out of circularity.
3) Make use of the journal diameters measured as above and printed letters on the assembly surface of the cylinder
block; refer to the following table to choose small bearing shells.
A check shall be carefully given to oil seals to make sure whether they are worn or damaged.
If oil seal lips are worn or damaged, the oil seals shall be changed.
10.Flywheel
·If gear rings have damage such as cracks and wear, the flywheels shall be changed.
·If the surface of driven discs in touch with clutches is damaged or badly worn, corresponding parts shall be
changed.
·Use a micrometer to check the flywheel end run-out.
If its end run-out exceeds the limit, the flywheel shall be changed. Flywheel‟s tightening torque:40~50
N·m (465)
7
6~80 N·m (474)
Limit of flywheel‟s end run-out: 0.2mm
Limit of radial
Radial clearance Standard
clearance
between outer rotor
and oil pump housing
0.045~0.120mm 0.300mm
Standard Limit
Lateral clearance
0.045~0.120mm 0.17mm
11.Oil pump
·Check whether oil seal lips have faults or other damage. They shall be
changed if necessary.
·Check whether inner and outer rotors, rotor plates and oil pump housing
are badly worn, out of clearance or damaged.
Radial clearance
Use a feeler to inspect the radial clearance between outer rotors and oil
pump housings.
If the clearance exceeds its limit, the outer rotor or oil pump assembly shall be changed.
Lateral clearance
Use a ruler or feeler to inspect lateral clearances.
Each cylinder of an engine has two valves which are arranged in V shape, and the angle between the intake valve
and the centerline is 330.
1. Valve
2. Valve guide
Valve guides are made of nodular cast iron with finish machining and then pressed in the valve guide holes in the
cylinder heads. Valve guides are mainly to guide the direction. Guide holes exactly fit valve stems to make valve
head cones concentric with valve seat cones, ensuring that the valves correctly adhere to the seal when closed.
Meanwhile, the heat through the valves can be guided to cylinder heads by them. As the requirement of working
accuracy is high, and the wear is severe, valve guides fall into two categories: standard dimension and service
dimension.
The valve seat ring is to prolong the useful lift of valves and cylinder heads, and ensure valve‘s sealing accuracy
and cut maintenance cost. In fact, it is a wear resistant cast iron ring set in the cylinder head. To ensure it working
reliably and avoid catastrophic failure caused by its falling into the cylinder, it must be set firmly. Valve seat rings
also are divided into standard dimension and maintenance dimension.
4. Valve spring
The valve spring is between the cylinder head and the valve spring seat at the valve stem end. It is to close valves
firmly without air leakage; avoid clearances caused by inertia forces produced among the driving parts; ensure
valves to regularly close and open in accordance with cam contour curve, prevent air leakage resulting from untight
closing of valves which jump when the engine vibrates.
Valve springs are made of quality alloy spring steel wire which is coiled to be spiral shape. To ensure its elastic
force not reduce under high speed alternating shock loads and improve its fatigue strength, the spring steel wire
shall undergo grinding, polishing and shot blasting, as well as bluing or phosphating to meet operational
requirements.
5.Cotter
The working cone of valve heads tightly fit the valve seat ring cone. The stem is fixed on the cylinder head under
the action of valve spring force applied by the valve taper cotter on the spring seat. Thus closing and sealing valves
depends on valve springs, and opening intake and exhaust depends on the drive of the cam on the camshaft.
The valve drive assembly of the engine is composed of such main components as camshafts, camshaft timing gears,
synchronous belt, rocker arm shaft, rocker arms.
The function of valve drive assembly is to utilize crankshaft power to punctually open and close intake and exhaust
valves as required by cylinders‘ working order and valve timing, and minimize noises and wear.
1. Crankshaft
The camshaft is one of the important parts of engine‘s valve train. The camshaft, of full supporting type, is fixed on
the cylinder head with 5 journals supporting it. To make the installation convenient, the dimension of these journals
increases successively from the flywheel end to the timing gear.
The camshaft has 8 (XC4F18-F is 16) cams in total, of which each is responsible for opening and closing 8
(XC4F18-F is 16) valves. The cam contour curve is designed in accordance with the requirements of valve timing.
The spatial location of the 8 (XC4F18-F is 16) cams is determined by both the working order and valve timing.
To ensure normal work of the camshaft, the camshaft journals shall have adequate pressure lubrication and shall be
furnished with plain bearings that make service convenient.
2. Timing gear
A timing gear is fitted into the crankshaft and camshaft respectively. In a working cycle of an engine, the crankshaft
makes two turns, and the camshaft made one, so the number of teeth of the camshaft timing gear is as many again
as the crankshaft timing gear.
As the opening and closing time of intake and exhaust valves is exactly fit into the crankshaft position, it is quite
crucial to ensure the two timing gears of proper installation.
3. Synchronous belt
As the camshaft is fixed on the cylinder head, the center distance of these two timing gears is increased. If
traditional gears are still employed to drive, it will be structurally unreasonable. Thus synchronous belts are
employed, which is both accurate and noiseless. Special-purpose synchronous belts are dedicated oil-resistance
internal tooth flexible belt.
Taking the rocker arm shaft as pivot, the rocker arm has its one end directly touch the cam on the camshaft, and the
other end touch the valve stem top though a valve clearance adjusting bolt (there is a certain clearance when the
valve is closed).
The rocker arm shaft, a type of long axis part which has an oil passage at the middle, is fixed on the cylinder head
with cylinder head bolts by 5 rocker arm seats. The rocker arm shaft has 8 rocker arm assemblies in total, of which
each drives one valve.
The indication of switching time of intake and exhaust valves by the turn angle of crankshaft position is called
valve timing. To make full use of gas flow inertia to improve gas filling and thorough exhaust, engines open intake
valves before top dead canter and close them after bottom dead center, and open exhaust valve before bottom dead
center and open them after top dead center. The angle size of lag closing and engine speed, the arrangement of
intake and exhaust valves and other structural parameters, all have relations.
The valve knock is practically the metal impact sound produced between the valve stem top and the valve clearance
adjusting bolt bottom. Normally, there is also such sound, but it is low, only ticktacks. It will be obvious in cold
starting, and will get lower when reaching the normal working temperature. However, when the ticktack becomes
bang, it will be noise pollution, which is a fault. The major causes for such loud noise are as follows:
(1) The valve clearance is large.
(2) The cam of camshaft is so badly worn that the valve clearance becomes large finally.
(3) Valve stems and valve guides are badly worn, exceeding the allowable value.
(4) The valve clearance adjusting screws become flexible.
If the engine‘s dynamic property and economic efficiency reduce in normal working conditions, it may be caused
by inaccurate valve timing. For example, a Dongfeng Xiaokang that runs normally in coastal and plain areas at
lower altitudes may encounter such phenomenon when it runs plateau areas, because the valve timing in lower
altitudes is substantially different from that in plateau areas. A comprehensive study shows that if the advance angle
and lag angle of intakes differ by 10 from the standard value in valve timing, the power drops 4% and oil
consumption rises 5%; and if they differ by 20, the power drops 8% and the oil consumption rises 12%. Apart from
the altitude, there may be the following causes that lead to changes in valve timing:
(1) The valve clearance is too large.
(2) The cam tip of camshaft is so badly worn that the cam lift reduces.
(3) The timing belt is worn.
(4) The tensile force of timing belt is inadequate, and too slack.
It is an omen of serious accidents. It shall be eliminated immediately after discovered, or valve springs will be
broken, and valves will fall into the cylinder. They then will accordingly scratch the cylinder, bend connecting rods
and crankshafts. The chief causes for such fault are as follows:
(1) The rigidity of valve springs is small.
(2) The valve springs are broken.
4. Valve leakage
It is caused by bad seal of valve working cones and valve seats. The chief causes are as follows:
(1) The valve and working cone of valve seat rings are badly worn.
(2) Valve stems and valve guides are badly worn so that the clearance is too large.
(3) There is carbon or impurities accumulated on the valve working cone.
A. Transmission side
1. Removal of mechanisms
If the clearance is beyond the limit, please change the shaft or the arm or both.
Inside
diameter of 14.985~15.005mm(465)
——
rocker arm 15.985~16.005mm(474)
shaft bore
Wear cam
Use a micrometer to measure the cam height; if the height to be measured is lower than the specified limit, please
change the camshaft.
Cam
Standard Limit
height
36.152mm(465) 36.100mm(465)
Intake cam
36.148~36.344mm(474) 36.084mm(474)
Camshaft straightness
0.10mm(465)
Straightness limit
0.12mm(474)
Keep the camshaft at between two ―V‖ blocks, and then use a dial indicator to
measure the straightness.
If the measured straightness exceeds the limit, change the camshaft.
Camshaft journal wear
·Measure the diameter of the journals at the four positions to gain four readings, and then use an inside dial
indicator to measure the camshaft hole inside diameter of the cylinder head to gain four readings.
The camshaft hole inside diameter of the cylinder head Seven minus camshaft journal diameter is journal clearance.
If the journal clearance exceeds the limit, the camshaft shall be changed, and so shall the cylinder head if necessary.
Journal
0.050~0.091mm 0.15mm
clearance
―a‖43.425~43.450mm 43.500~43.516mm
―b‖43.625~43.650mm 43.700~43.716mm
―c‖43.825~43.850mm 43.900~43.916mm
―d‖44.025~44.050mm 44.100~44.116mm
―e‖44.225~44.250mm 44.300~44.316mm
Valve guide
Use a micrometer and inside dial indicator to inspect valve stems and guide clearances and read the readings of
valve stem diameter and guide inside diameter. Be sure that there is more than one measuring points. If the
clearance exceeds the limit, change the valve and valve guide.
Item Standard Limit
6.965~6.980mm(465)
Intake
Valve stem 5.465~5.480mm(474)
diameter 6.950~6.970mm(465)
Exhaust
5.440~5.455mm(474)
7.000~7.015mm(465)
Intake
Valve guide 5.500~5.512mm(474)
inside diameter 7.000~7.015mm(465)
Exhaust
5.500~5.512mm(474)
1. Valve seat
0.020~0.050mm(465) contact
Intake 0.07mm
Stem-guide 0.020~0.047mm(474) width
clearance 0.020~0.050mm(465)
Exhaust 0.09mm
0.045~0.072mm(474)
If there is no inside dial indicator, a dial indicator with a stand may be used to inspect the deviation of valve tips.
Shake the valve tip in A and B directions to measure the end offset. If the end offset exceeds the limit, change the
valve stem and valve guide.
Valve
·Eliminate all carbon deposits from the valves.
·Inspect the wear and ablation or deformation of each valve. If necessary, change them.
1. Valve seat thickness
·Measure the thickness of valve tips; if the thickness fails to reach the specified limit, the valve must be changed.
2. 45゜
Intake 0.12mm
Valve stem end offset limit
Exhaust 0.16mm
·Inspect the end wear of each valve tip. The end contacts the rocker arm intermittently in running, and will become
concave or irregular shape. If necessary, use an oil stone to grind it to be smooth. If it is not smooth until grinding
to the chamfer, the valve shall be changed.
·Contact zone width of the cone and valve seat:
Common grinding methods are employed to produce a contact pattern, that is, spread a layer of compound (red lead
for instance) over the valve cone and then turn it. The valve must be grinded with a valve grinding machine. The
pattern generated on the valve cone after grinded must be a continuous ribbon, whose width must be within the
specified range.
Intake 1.3~1.5mm(465)
Ribbon
width 1.1~1.3mm(474)
Exhaust
Standard Limit
· 1. Valve seat tool
Intake 0.6mm
0.8~1.2mm
Exhaust 0.7mm
Valve spring At 23.6~27.6kg, the length is 40mm (465) At 22.0kg, the length is 40 mm (465)
preload At 10.7~12.5kg, the length is 31.5mm (474) At 9.3kg, the length is 31.5mm (474)
Valve spring
Refer to the given data below and inspect the springs to make sure that every spring is in good condition and has no
signs of damage or elasticity weakening; the valve springs whose elasticity
weakens may cause vibration, but it will not cause drops in output power due
to mixture leakage resulting from reduction in valve spring elasticity.
Use a square and plate to inspect the verticality of every spring, namely, measure the gap
between the valve spring end face and the square. If the valve spring verticality exceeds
the limit, it must be change.
The engine adopts a lubricating system which combines forced lubrication and splash lubrication. The oil pump, of
rotor type, is fixed to a crankshaft, adjacent to the crankshaft
pulley. The oil is pumped out by an oil strainer and delivered to
the oil filter by the oil pump.
The filtered oil flows into the two oil lines in the crankcase. In
one oil line, the oil will reach the crankshaft‘s main bearing shell.
The oil from the crankshaft‘s main bearing shell flows through the
oil lines that run through to each other to the connecting rod‘s
bearing shell. The connecting rod big end has a small hole in it,
through which the oil sprays out to lubricate pistons, piston rings
and cylinder walls. In the other oil line, the oil runs through the oil
lines in the rocker arm shaft to the cylinder head to lubricate the rocker arm, valves and camshafts. On the oil pump
is fixed a relieve valve, which will release the pressure when the oil pressure exceeds about 400kPa. The
overflowed oil returns to the oil pan.
Anti-attrition: they deliver the lubricating oil to the part‘s surface in relative motion, reducing friction loss and
wear.
Cleaning: the lubricating oil, at a pressure, circulates on friction surfaces to clean away abrasive dust.
Cooling: the lubricating oil circulates continuously, taking away friction surface heat and having a cooling effect.
Sealing: the lubricating film takes up partial fit clearances, thus enhancing the tightness.
Anti- corrosion: the lubricating film can separate the parts from the oxygen and corrosive substances in the air,
preventing corrosion.
Vibration reduction: the oil film between friction surfaces can absorb vibration and alleviate impacts, so as to play a
role in vibration reduction.
The lubricating system of an engine is mainly composed of oil pan, oil strainer, oil pump, oil filter, oil pressure
sensor, instrument and pipeline. Piston and cylinder wall Camshaft central
journal, #3
2. Lubricating oil flow chart Connecting rod small end Rocker arm shaft
The lubricating oil is drawn by a strainer into the oil pump, from which the oil pressure is specified
Connecting rod big end
as 400kPa by a
Rocker arm
pressure limiting valve. The pressure oil from the oil pump then flows into the oil filter to clear away dust,
Camshaft journal, #5
impurities and colloids, and finally to the friction surfaces through several lines.
Crankshaft main journal Camshaft journal,
#1,2,4
Distributor gear case
(1) One line leads to the main oil passage of, and then to the main bearingCylinder saddle of the cylinder block to provide
block oil hole
lubrication in the main journal bearing. The main journals of crankshaft 2 and 4Bypass Camshaft
havevalveoil passaged to everycenter
Oil filter oil hole
connecting rod journal for lubrication of connecting rod journals. The spare lubricating oil is thrown away and
Cylinder wall
Oil pump Safety valve
splashed from the clearance with the connecting rod‘s run to cylinder walls, piston pin boss holes to make
Oil filter screen
lubrication. Finally, the superfluous lubricating oil returns to the oil pan by gravity.
Oil pan
(2) Another line leads to the rocker arm shaft to make lubrication for rocker arms and camshaft journals. The spare
oil flows out from the clearance and then returns to the oil pan through oil passages by gravity. The oil passage
diagram is as shown in the right figure.
(1) Oil strainer: the oil strainer is fixed on the oil pump to preliminarily filter large impurities in the oil. A 150~200
mesh screen is furnished at the inlet. The oil strainer shall keep contacting the liquid level all the time so as not to
interrupt oil suction.
The oil pump is fitted to the camshaft and is directly driven by the camshaft. The oil pump is furnished with a
plunger-type pressure limiting valve. Adjusting the spring preloaded force can get different oil pressures. The
maintenance parameters of oil pumps can be referred to the section Ⅲ of this chapter.
The function of oil filters is to clear away metal abrasive dust, dust, moisture and colloids so as to ensure that the
quality of the oil entering the friction surfaces meets requirements. The characteristics of engine‘s oil filters are as
follows:
2) The filter case is integrated with the filter element. Both of them are spun on the oil pump‘s oil outlet circuit at a
time. The oil will, after filtered, flows into the oil passage.
3) Oil filters are disposable wearing and Consumable parts, so that they need not maintenance, only need regular
replacement.
Ⅱ. Common fault diagnosis of lubricating system
Though the engine bears high pressure, high temperature, high speed and alternating shock load, it will not have
major failure if carefully maintained in accordance with maintenance regulations. Generally, common faults are as
follows:
When engines run normally, the oil pressure shall stay at 200~400kPa, and shall not less than 100kPa in idle run. If
it is lower than the value, it is a failure. The main causes are:
(4) Bad wear of oil pump; uneasy stabilization of oil pressure due to large clearance
In any case, the oil pressure shall not exceed 400kPa, or the pressure is too high. Low pressure makes the
lubrication unreliable, but high pressure is not only unnecessary but also wastes drive energy, which may be easy to
cause oil lead of pipelines and accelerate oxidative deterioration of lubricating oil. The principal causes for high oil
pressure include:
The normal oil consumption shall be 0.1‰~0.25‰ of the fuel consumption, that is, a 1,000km drive consumes
0.1-0.5L oil. If it exceeds the value, the oil consumption is too high. The chief causes for such phenomenon are as
follows:
(1) Bad wear of cylinders and pistons; large clearance of cylinder walls or cylinder score
(2) Deterioration of the seal of piston rings; severe oil leak, reverse installation of twist rings
(3) High temperature in the crankcase; ingress of oil vapor though crankcase ventilating system into the cylinder for
combustion
Replace for deteriorated oil requires a certain mileage. If the oil deteriorates before reaching the specified mileage,
it is fast deterioration. The major causes for it are as follows:
(1) Large gap of cylinder walls and severe leakage cause the fresh mixture and high-temperature burnt gas to
aggravate their dilution and oxidization of the oil.
When the vacuum in the intake manifold reduces (throttle valve is opened), the PCV valve is fully opened under
the spring pressure. Thus, large quantity of mixture in the crankcase is sucked into the intake manifold. Additionally,
when the throttle valve is turned down and the vacuum in the intake manifold increases, the openness of the
crankcase volume control damper is limited by the strong vacuum. Thus the mixture sucked into the intake
manifold will be less.
·Check to make sure whether the PCV hoses are well connected and whether there is leakage, blockage and
1.PCV valve
deformation. Replace them if necessary.
1) Remove the PCV volume control damper on the cylinder head cover to fit the plug into the hole.
3) Put the hands before the PCV volume control valve to check if there is vacuum; if there is no vacuum, check it to
make sure whether it is blocked. If necessary, replace it.
4) After the check on vacuum, stop the engine immediately to remove the PCV volume control damper. Shake the
damper to listen to whether the inspection probe has clicking sound, and change it if there is no such sound.
5) If it passes the check, fit the plug into the PCV volume control damper again.
1. PCV valve
Notice:
Before adjusting the engine to idle running, make sure that the PCV valve or the hose is not clogged, or it
will affect the adjusting accuracy. After the exhaust control hose is removed and the system components are
maintained, the components shall be properly re-assembled when they are checked to meet the requirements,
and then the lines and hoses shall be connected properly.
1. Radiator inlet pipe 6. Water pump belt 10. HVAC outlet hose
2. Radiator outlet pipe 7. Cylinder block 11. Radiator
3. Inlet pipe 8. Cylinder head 12. Liquid storage tank
4. Thermostat 9. HVAC inlet hose 13. Radiator cap
5. Water pump
1) As the engine gradually heats up
(the thermostat is closed), the Water pump
Water pump Cylinder block Cylinder head Intake manifold
circulation of cooling liquid is shown
as the figure (note: do not pass the When thermostat closed
1. Radiator
EFI engine radiators, structurally identical to the average engine radiators, are composed of aluminum tubes or
copper tubes and cooling fins. The difference is that this radiator employs a two-gear rotary switch as its cap
instead of the air-valve cap, which makes the cooling system change from average open cycle to closed cycle. It is
because the change in caps that special attention shall be paid to removing them.
Opening radiator caps falls into two steps: first, loosen the cap to the safety tongue lock, and then open it entirely
when the system‘s working pressure drops, or the hot coolant will splash out to cause personal injury.
2. Water pump
The water pump is to circulate the coolant in the cooling system to take away the heat of cylinder block and head
and radiate it through radiators.
EFI engines adopt a type of centrifugal impeller pump, whose housing is cast together with the cylinder block. The
impeller is driven by drive belt through crankshaft driving wheel so as to put the coolant into forced circulation.
3. Electric fan
The electric fan is to improve the velocity and flow of the air flowing through the radiator to enhance the radiator‘s
heat-sinking capability.
The fan of EFI engines is driven by a motor, which is fixed behind the radiator, and borne by a holder made of
metal. The holder is furnished with a wind-guide ring and air flow reverse prevention device. Its operation is
controlled by ECU based on the coolant temperature.
4. Thermostat
The thermostat is to adjust the coolant‘s circulation line to meet the purpose of adjusting the temperature of cooling
liquid.
This model employs wax-type thermostat, which is unrepairable. If it is sure of a thermostat failure, please replace
a new one.
Ⅱ. Common fault of cooling system
1. Engine overheat
As the DL465Q5 EFI engine run normally, the coolant temperature ranges within 85~98oC; if it exceeds 118oC, the
engine is overheated. The main causes for overheat are as follows:
(3) The tank cap is not twisted to the specified position, causing coolant overflow.
(4) The air is not be drained in according with requirements when coolant is filled.
(5) The water flumes of radiators and cylinder blocks are clogged.
(6) The water thermometer and water temperature sensor work abnormally.
2. Engine overcooling
3. Coolant outleakage
If there is water below the car when parked in a place, it may be water leakage, for which the causes are as follows:
(1) The connecting water pipe is damaged or get slack.
If the quality of lubricating oil is found to deteriorate after a check, it may be caused by inner leakage of coolant.
The main causes may be as follows:
(2) The junction surface of cylinder head and cylinder block is not level.
(1) The cooling system is not maintained according to requirements, and the coolant is not changed according to
requirements either.
(2) The mixture ratio of coolant is wrong, so is the cooling liquid type.
The cooling fan automatically starts under the control of ECU. The technical parameters of its opening and closing
are as follows.
Notice:
Hands, tools and clothes shall always keep away from the engine‟s cooling fan to avoid personal injury.
The water temperature sensor is fixed on the intake manifold. It transmits the water temperature signals to the water
thermometer on the dashboard.
3. Maintenance of cooling liquid
The quantity of cooling liquid poured in the cooling system is standard. The cooling liquid in the radiator expands
when heated and overflows in the liquid storage tank. When the system cools down, the cooling liquid will return to
the radiator.
The anti-freeze liquid has a so fine anti-corrosive property that it can prevent the system producing scale and
improve the boiling point. Additionally, anti-freeze liquid can reduce evaporation loss. With the premium properties
above, the cooling system shall use cooling liquid all the year round, and shall be not added with pure water at any
time so as not to reduce the density of cooling liquid.
―-20#‖ ethylene glycol anti-freeze liquid is used in most areas or in winters where the minimum temperature is
above -20℃; and ―-40#‖ ethylene glycol anti-freeze liquid is used in winter in North East, Xinjiang and Inner
Mongol and other areas where the minimum temperature is below -20℃.
When the cooling liquid is reduced by consumption, the anti-freeze liquid of the same sort shall be added.
Notice:
In any case, neither alcohol or methanol cooling liquid, nor ordinary water can be poured into the cooling
system, or it will be damaged.
Even if there is no desired cooling liquid on market, the cooling liquid of 70% water and 30% ethylene glycol
would be used to realize corrosion prevention and lubrication. The following is the table of anti-freeze
liquid‟s proportion and volume:
o
Freezing temperature C -16 -36
Concentration of
Anti-free anti-freeze/anticorrosive % 30 50
ze cooling liquid
protector
Mixing proportion with cooling
water Volumetric ratio 30/70 50/50
(ethylene glycol/water)
Cooling
Liquid storage tank 0.6
liquid
volume
Others 2.9
(L)
Total 4.8
Warning:
To avoid scald:
Do not open the liquid storage tank cap when the cooling liquid is “boiling”.
Do not open the radiator cap when the engine and radiator do not cool down.
If the caps of the liquid storage tank and radiator are opened too early, the
boiling liquid and steam will puff up suddenly under pressure.
When the engine cools down, check the level of the liquid in the liquid storage
tank. Normally, the cooling liquid level shall stat between the FULL and LOW (L)
mark lines.
1. Liquid storage tank
If the level is below the LOW (L) mark, the liquid storage tank cap shall be 2. Maximum level mark
3. Minimum level mark
removed to add cooling liquid of the same proportion to raise it to the FULL (F)
4. Liquid storage tank cap
mark; then cover the cap and align the mark on the liquid storage tank to that on 5. Alignment mark
the cap. 6. Hose to water
Notice:
·If the anti-freeze liquid of the same quality is use, it is unnecessary to add other aseptic or protective agent
to provide further protection of the system.
·In covering the liquid storage tank cap, the arrow marks on both the tank and the cap shall be aligned.
Warning:
To prevent scald, do not open the radiator cap when the engine
and radiator do not cool down.
If the caps of the liquid storage tank and radiator are opened
too early, the boiling liquid and steam will puff up suddenly
under pressure.
2) When the engine cools down, remove the radiator cap and use
pure water to clean the cap and the filling orifice.
3) Check the cooling liquid level to see if it is proper. 1. Thermostat cap drain bolt
2. Thermostat cap
4) Use a pressure tester to check the tightness of the cooling system
3. Radiator water service hose
and radiator cap. If the radiator cap is necessary to change, choose
the dedicated ones.
Notice:
When the radiator cap is fitted into the radiator, be sure the pipe fittings are parallel to the radiator.
5) Tighten the hose clamp to check all hoses; in case the hoses have
cracking, expanding or other damage, they shall be changed.
Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise to the ―stop‖ (stop sign). (Do
not press down it in turning) press it down and continue turning it
counterclockwise when the pressure releases (fizzing). 1. Pressure tester
2. Radiator
2) After the radiator cap is removed, the engine shall continue 3. Radiator cap/cap (including
running till the radiator‘s upper end hose gets hot (which means that thermostat cover)
the thermostat is opened and the cooling liquid flows through the system).
4) Tighten the water drain plug to fill soft water till the system is filled; then start the engine again until the
radiator‘s upper end rubber hose get hot.
5) Repeat the step 3) and 4) till the discharged liquid becomes nearly
colorless.
6) Drain the cooling system and screw up the water drain plug.
7) Remove the liquid storage tank and open its cap to pour out all the liquid;
then use soap and water to scrub its interior; finally rinse it with clear water
1. Radiator
before fitting the liquid storage tank.
2. Water drain bolt
8) Fill the quality anti-freeze liquid into the radiator and liquid storage tank.
Fill the liquid first to the full level mark ―FULL (F)‖ on the lower part of radiator filling orifice and the liquid
storage tank, and cover the liquid storage tank cap; remove the HVAC hose and loosen the venting plug of the
thermostat to exhaust the air in the cooling system; then fill the cooling liquid till the level rises to the filling
orifices of the radiator and liquid storage tank.
9) Remove the radiator cap to run the engine till the radiator‘s upper end hose gets hot.
10) Stop the engine to cool down, and then fill the cooling liquid into the liquid storage tank; then cover the
radiator cap, making sure the pipe joint on the cap are parallel to the radiator.
1) Check the belt to make sure whether there are cracks, ruptures,
deformation, wear and cleaning; change it if necessary; the step of
replacing it can be referred to the ―Water pump belt‖ in this section.
2) Check the belt tension. If the belt sinks 6-9mm when pressed by 1. 10kg (22 lbs)
a thumb (about 980N), it means that the tension is proper. 2. Adjusting bolt
Notice:
4) Tighten the adjusting bolt of the belt and the fixed bolt of the
generator.
Ⅳ. In-car maintenance
Warning:
Give a check to make sure the cooling liquid cools down before
all the components of the cooling system are removed.
Make sure that the battery negative ground wire has be removed
before stripping the components. 1. Radiator
2. Water drain bolt
1. Discharge of cooling liquid
3) After the cooling liquid is discharged, the water drain bolt must be
tightened before refilling it.
Removal:
2) Loosen the pipe clamps of the cooling system, and then remove all the pipes of the system.
Installation:
Assemble all the removed clamps and pipes in the reverse order of their disassembly, while pay attention to the
following aspects:
· Refill the cooling liquid of proper proportion into the cooling system; refer to the ―Maintenance of Cooling
Liquid‖ in the above section.
·While the water pipes are fitted into the pump, a new ―O‖ seal ring shall be used.
2. Thermostat
Caution:
Removal
Check
1) Make sure the air release valve of the thermostat is clean; if it is clogged, the engine will overheat.
2) Make a check to make sure that there are no foreign bodies, which will impair valve seat‘s tightness.
3) Check to figure out whether the thermostat gasket is damaged, aged or otherwise impaired.
c) If the valve opens below or above the specified temperature range, it means
the thermostat is damaged, and it will cause the engine to get supercooled or
overheated if remaining in use.
Installation
2) Unscrew the drive belt‘s adjusting screw and the generator‘s set screw.
Note: in maintaining cars equipped with air conditioners, the compressor drive belt shall be first removed, and then
the water pump belt.
Installation
1) Fit the belt to the water pump pulley, crank pulley and generator pulley. (in repairing cars with air conditioners,
compressor belt shall be installed as well).
1. Water pump belt
2) Adjust the belt tension. 2. Adjusting screw
3. Set screw
Adjust the tension of the compressor drive belt. Refer to the above
section for the adjustment method.
3) Tighten the water pump belt‘s adjusting screw and set screw.
Refer to the section of ―Water Pump Belt Tension‖ for check and
adjustment of water pump belts.
4. Radiator
Removal
2) Unscrew and pluck the water drain bolt to discharge the cooling liquid
1. Radiator
in the cooling system. 2. Water drain bolt
3) Remove the plug connectors of the cooling fan motor.
6) Remove the radiator‘s inlet and outlet hoses, as well as the hoses of the liquid storage tank on the radiator.
Cleaning
Clean the external surface of the radiator core to keep good ventilation.
Installation
· Refill proper cooling liquid into the cooling system; refer to the section ―Maintenance of Cooling Liquid‖.
5. Water pump
Removal
4) Remove the gear lever and brake handle, as well as the central Water pump
components in the engine compartment.
5) Slacken the water pump drive belt, and then remove the water pump pulley and the belt. In repairing cars with
air conditioners, the compressor belt shall be first removed and then the water pump belt.
Check:
·Rotate the water pump manually to check whether it runs steadily; if it fails to turn flexibly or makes noises, if
shall be changed.
Notice:
Installation:
2) Fix a rubber seal between the water pump and the oil pump, as well as between the water pump and the cylinder
head.
3) Install bolts and tighten them, with the torque value as specified.
4) Install the timing tension pulley wheel, tension pulley, tension pulley spring, timing belt and timing belt cover.
5) Install the crank pulley, water pump pulley and water pump belt.
1. Rubber seal
6) Adjust the water pump belt tension according to the former figure; as
for the cars with air conditions, the air conditioner drive belt shall be
adjusted.
10) Refer to the section ―Installation of Front Seat‖ to install the front seat.
12) Adjust the tension of the water pump belt and air conditioner belt (if an air conditioner is equipped).
To make a static engine start operating, an external force must be exercised to turn the engine‘s crankshaft so as to
let the cylinder suck in inflammable mixtures, which are compressed and ignited to produce a strong power to push
down the piston and thus to drive the crankshaft to turn. In this way, the engine automatically begins working cycle.
The system from turning the engine‘s crankshaft by an external force to the engine beginning idling automatically
is called starting system.
·As the ignition switch closes, the solenoid switch coil produces a magnetic field.
·When the plunger and the gear drive cable move to make the pinion and the engine‘s flywheel gear in mesh, and
the solenoid switch contacts close, the starting begins.
·When the engine is starting, the pinion overdrive clutch protects the armature to prevent the starter overrunning till
the switch is opened. Then the return spring disengages the pinion. The circuit diagram is as shown below.
Solenoid switch
Pull-in coil
Holding coil
Solenoid switch contact
Plunger
Pinion drive
cable
Battery
Pinion and overdrive clutch Starting motor
2. Starting motor
It consists of stator assembly, armature assembly, overdrive clutch assembly, solenoid switch assembly, front shell,
rear shell, brush support and drive cable (see the figure below). The solenoid switch assembly and parts on the
starting motor are enclosed in the shell so as to avoid damage from dirt and splash.
Annotation:
The positions marked with “A” in the figure below shall be applied with grease before installation.
·Abnormal noise
Proper diagnoses must be made to confirm where the fault occurs, for instance battery, wiring harness (including
starting motor switch), starting motor or engine.
Do not disassemble the starting motor only because it fails to operate. Check the items listed in the below table to
examine the failure causes (examine one item after another according to the table below).
1) Fault conditions
2) Battery terminals (including ground wire terminal at the engine side) and starting motor terminals
3) Battery discharge
10. Drive end shield 11. Starting engine bolt 12. Lock ring 13. Front support bearing
14. Stator 15. Brush 16. One-way clutch component 17. Armature
18. Rear end cap 19. Brush pressure spring 20. Stay bolt 21. Sealing gasket
22. Tripping spring 23. Positioning chuck plate 24. Rear cover 25. Screw
·The pinion teeth or pinion drive teeth are Change the pinion or the flywheel
worn.
Noise Repair or change
·The pinion does not rotate smoothly (cannot
Lubricate
return).
·The solenoid switch contacts are melted. Change the solenoid switch
The starting motor ·Short circuit occurs between the solenoid Change the solenoid switch
fails to stop. switch coils (isolated layer short circuited).
Change
·The ignition switch fails to return.
2) Remove the solenoid switch wire and battery wire from the
starting motor terminals.
1. Wire 4. Nut
3) Unscrew the two mounting screws. 2. Nut A: pull to disengage the internal hook
3. Solenoid switch
4) Remove the starting motor.
5) Remove the nuts from the solenoid switch and disconnect the
wires.
6) Remove the two nuts, and take out the solenoid switch by
pulling the solenoid switch tail so as to detach the internal hook
from the drive cable.
7) Remove the shell bolts and then pull out the rectifier end cap.
1. Brush
8) Remove the insulator and brush spring, and then dismantle 2. Brush spring
3. Brush holder
the brush holder.
10) Use a snap ring plier and driver to remove the armature and then pull out the pinion snap ring and overdrive
clutch.
Note:
Special tool
(A): 09900—06107
1. Armature
2. Chuck ring
3. Pinion snap ring
4. Overdrive clutch
1. Armature
2. Drive cable 3. Drive end
Reassembly shield
4) Install the stator and brush holder, and then fix the brush with four springs, and finally install the insulator.
Notice:
·In installing brushes, be sure that the grease on the brushes and
rectifiers is wiped off.
2. Check
Plunger
Solenoid switch
Push in the plunger and let it go, then the plunger shall
quickly return to its original position. Change it if necessary.
Check the solenoid switch to make sure whether its ―S‖ terminal and
―M‖ terminal are connected; if not, it means the coil is disconnected,
and it shall be changed.
Brush
Brush holder
Armature
1. Terminal ‗S‘
·Earth test
Insulation shall be provided between the rectifier plate and the armature core, which can be tested with an
ohmmeter.
·Disconnection test
Check the continuity between rectifier plates; if there is no continuity at any test point, it means the circuit is
disconnected, and then the armature must be change.
·Support the armature on a V-shaped block to check if the rectifier is eccentric; if it has problems, cut it by a lathe.
·Polish the surface with emery cloth and check the mica depth.
Stator
1) Between terminals
2) Between terminals
1. Mica insulator
3) Between the terminal and C terminal (the surface of metal pieces 2. Rectifier plate
of the stator)
Overdrive clutch
Check the pinion to make sure whether it has wear, damage or other
abnormalities. Turn the clutch in the driving direction to check whether
the clutch is locked and can turn smoothly in a reverse direction; if
necessary, change it.
A: Free rotation
Recommended Suzuki
Material Use
product
·Armature shaft
·Drive cable
Performance test
Warning:
Pull-in test
Holding test
Connect the wire as shown in the figure above when the iron core
extends out, and then remove the negative wire from the terminal
‗M‘. The check if the iron core still extends out; if it contracts
inwards, the solenoid switch shall be changed.
Connect the test leads as shown in the right figure and check if the motor has
operational failure and make sure the pinion rotate outwards; additionally, check if the
armature indicates the specified current.
Technical requirement
Servicing materials
Special tool
09900-06107
clasp forceps
(open mouth type)
Voltage 12V
No-load
11V Below 50A (above 5,000 r/min )
characteristic
The assembly steps of engines are reverse to their disassembly steps, but some necessary measures must be taken to
make sure that the assembled engines meet the factory requirements.
Notice:
·All parts must be cleaned.
Of the two main bearing shells, one has a sump. The one with a sump
is fixed on the cylinder block, and the other one without a sump on
the main bearing cap. Make sure the color of the both shells are the
same.
Sump
2) A thrust bearing shall be mounted between No. 2 and No.3
cylinders. The side with a sump shall face the crank arm.
4) Assemble the bearing caps from the belt pulley side in the
increasing order from 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Make sure the arrow marks (on
every bearing cap) aim at the crankshaft pulley side. For bearing cap
bolts, tightening them gradually and evenly is of importance. Make
sure the 5 bearing caps are tightened evenly and gradually as required
to the specified torque. 1. Crankshaft pulley side
2. Arrow mark
Tightening torque
Notice:
1. Outer rotor
2. Inner rotor
2. Oil pump and rear cover
4) Mount the rotor header, and tighten the five screws. When
the rotor header is well mounted, check and make sure the rotor rotate smoothly.
Tightening torque
(a): 9~12N·m
5) Fit the two oil pump pins and oil pump seal gasket to the
cylinder block; the seal gasket shall a new one.
Of the 7 oil pump bolts, the four 1# bolts shall be shorter than
the three 2# bolts. As shown in the figure, fit the 1# and 2#
bolts in place, and tighten them to the specified torque.
After the oil pump is installed, check and make sure the oil seal
lip does not upturn, and then remove the special tool.
Tightening torque
(a): 9~12N·m
1. 1# bolt (short)
2. 2# bolt (long)
8) The edge of the oil seal gasket may bulge.
3. Piston
1) Fix the piston pin on the piston and the connecting rod.
After applying engine oil to the piston pins and piston pin holes in
the piston and connecting rod, assemble them according to the
following method, and insert the piton pins into the piston and
connecting rod, and finally fit the piston pin snap spring. 1. No. 1 piston ring
2. No. 2 piston ring
Note: the installation shall locate the snap spring end 3. Scrapper ring
clearance within the range pointed by the arrow.
3) Once No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings and the scrapper rings are
mounted, arrange
their clearances
as shown in the
figure.
6) When the piston and connecting rod assembly are installed in the
cylinder, the arrow mark on the piston top shall point to the crank
pulley side.
7) In installing the piston and connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, a special tool (piston ring compressor) shall
be employed to squeeze the piston ring to install the crankshaft in place; use a
hammer‘s wooden handle to tap the piston top so as to fit it to the cylinder
hole; hold the piston ring compressor firmly to make it abut against the
cylinder block till the piston ring totally enters the cylinder.
Special tool:
A: 09916-7310
The arrow mark on the bearing cap shall be aimed at the crank pulley side, and
then tighten bearing cap nuts according to specified technical conditions.
Tightening torque
First tighten up the strainer bolt, and then screw the bracket bolt according to the specified torque.
Tightening torque:
(a): 9~12N·m
3) Fix the upper oil pan on the cylinder block, and then fit the 1. Sealing member
2. Strainer
lower oil pan to the upper oil pan; once both oil pans are well 3. Bracket
fitted, fix the fixing bolts on the middle part and tighten them up: move the wrench outward to tighten one bolt at a
time. Tighten up the bolts and nuts according to the specified tightening torque.
Tightening torque
Fit the seal ring and oil drain plug on the oil pan.
Tightening torque
5. Flywheel
Use special tools to fix the flywheel and tighten its bolts up according to the specified tightening torque.
Special tool:
(A): 09924-17810
Tightening torque
6. Cylinder head
1) Before the cylinder guide is fit to the cylinder head, special tools
shall be used (12mm reamer) to trim it so as to eliminate burs.
Special tool:
(A): 09916-37310
2) Fix the valve guide on the cylinder head. Heat the cylinder head
evenly to a temperature of 80℃~100℃ (176℉~212℉), at which the
cylinder is hard to deform. Then use a special tool to press the valve guide in the holes till the special tool (valve
guide installer) touches the cylinder head. After mounted in place, the valve guide shall project 14mm out of the
cylinder head.
Special tools:
(B): 09916-57321
(C): 09917-88210
Notice:
·Do no reuse the removed old valve guides, but use the new ones (oversize).
3) Use special tools (1mm reamer) to trim the valve guide hole; after this, clean
the hole.
Special tool:
(D):09916-34520
4) Fix the valve spring support on the cylinder head. 1. Valve guide
After applying engine oil to the valve oil seals and the main shaft of the special tool (valve oil seal installer), mount
the oil seal on the main shaft; and then manually press the special tool to fit the valve oil seal on the valve guide.
After it is installed, check and make sure the valve oil seal is
properly mounted on the valve guide.
Special tool:
(E): 09917-98210
Notice:
·Do not reuse the removed valve oil seal, and make sure the
valve is sealed. 1. Valve stem oil seal
Install new valve oil seals
Before fixing the valve on the guide, apply engine oil to the
valve stem oil seal, valve guide holes and valve stem.
Every valve spring has a top (large pitch end) and a bottom (small pitch end). To make sure the spring is in place,
its bottom (small pitch end) shall touch the base (valve spring seat end side)
8) Use a special tool (lift valve) to compress the valve spring and fit the two valve cotters in the valve stem groove.
Special tools:
(A): 09916-14510
1. Large pitch
(B): 09916-48210 2. Small pitch
(C): 09916-84510 3. Valve spring retainer side
4. Valve spring seat end side
9) Install intake manifold
and exhaust manifold.
18~23N•m (465)
23~28N•m (474)
Mount new cylinder gaskets as shown in the figure, that is, the ―TOP‖
mark on the seal gasket lies on the cylinder head gasket at the shaft
pulley side, with right side up (to the cylinder head) 1. Cylinder head seal gasket
2. Shaft pulley side
11) Fix the cylinder head on the cylinder block. 3. Transmission side
After applying engine oil to the cylinder head bolts, tighten them up
one after another by a wrench in the order as shown in the figure,
and then screw the bolts according to the specified torque.
12) Apply engine oil to the cam and journal on the camshaft as well as the oil seal on the cylinder head.
13) Fix the camshaft on the cylinder head from the transmission housing side.
14) Apply engine oil to the rocker arm and rocker arm shaft.
15) Fit on the rocker arm, spring and rocker arm shaft. the two types of rocker arm shaft are different. To identify
them, the dimension shall be marked at the echelon end as shown in
Intake rocker arm shaft
the right figure. Install intake rocker arm shaft, with tis echelon end
pointing to the camshaft pulley side. Install exhaust rocker arm shaft,
with its direction reverse to the intake rocker arm shaft.
Camshaft pulley side
16) As shown in the figure, when the rocker arm, spring and rocker
arm shaft are installed, the rocker arm shaft bolts shall be tightened
to the specified torque. Exhaust rocker arm shaft
1. 14mm (0.55in.)
Tightening torque 2. 15mm (0.59in.)
(b): 9~12N·m
Notice:
Lock the camshaft by a special toll, and tighten the belt pulley bolts to a specified torque.
Tightening torque
1. Timing belt pulley rear case
(a): 55~60N·m (465) 57~61N·m (474) 2. Camshaft belt pulley
3. Belt pulley locating pin
Special tool: 4. Belt pulley bolt
(A): 09917-68227
Insert the lock pawl of the tension pulley bottom plate into the holes.
5) Before fixing the timing belt on the camshaft belt pulley and Lock pawl
crankshaft timing belt pulley, the cylinder head cap shall be
locking hole
removed.
When the cylinder head cap is removed, unscrew the valve adjusting
nuts first, and then the valve adjusting nuts in intake and exhaust
rocker arms. Turn the camshaft freely. In fixing the timing belt on
the (two) belt pulleys, tense the belt correctly by the elasticity of the
tension pulley.
1. Tension pulley belt 4. Tension pulley
Adjusting screw torque of intake and exhaust rocker arm: 2. Tension pulley stud bolt 5. Spring
3. Tension pulley bottom plate 6. Spring buffer
18~20N•m(465)
10~13N•m(474)
6) In case the camshaft fails to rotate freely, and the belt cannot be
correctly tensed the tension pulley, the camshaft belt pulley shall be
turned clockwise after all valve adjusting screws are slackened, as
shown in the figure. All the timing marks on the camshaft belt pulley
shall aim at the ―V‖ sign at the belt side cover.
8) Turn the crankshaft clockwise to mate the 17mm wrench with the crank timing belt pulley bolt. Aim the punch
mark on the timing belt pulley to the arrow mark on the oil pump as shown in the 1. Timing belt
figure.
9) Once the two marks are aligned, fit the timing belt to the two belt pulleys,
with no looseness at the drive side. Push the tension pulley bottom plat upward
Crankshaft direction
by hands.
Notice:
·In fitting on the timing belt, the arrow mark on it shall be consistent with the rotation direction of the
crankshaft.
·In this state, 4# piston shall be at the top dead center of the
compression stroke.
Tightening torque
8. Generator
As for the installation method, see ―Clutches‖ in this chapter. All the bolts shall be tightened up according to
specified torque.
Notice:
On installing and connecting all the parts (components) and making sure they are well connected, check and
adjust the ignition timing. As for the steps of such checks and adjustment, see the “Ignition System” in the
following chapter.
Air-conditioner Compressor
Install the air-conditioner compressor and adjust the drive belt‘s tension according to the specified technical
requirement. See the ―Check on Drive Belts‖ in this chapter.
Adjust the clearances of intake valves and exhaust valves; as for the adjusting steps, see the first chapter of this
manual.
5) Tighten the bolts and nuts mentioned in the steps 2), 3) and 4) above to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
13) Refill the engine with engine oil, and fill the transmission
with transmission oil.
16) Check and adjust the air compressor (if equipped) and generator belts (water pump belt)
18) While finishing all work, check and make sure all joints have no leakage of fuel, cooling liquid and waste gas.
Ⅲ. Check
Compressors
Check the compression pressure of the four cylinders according to
the following requirements:
Warning:
5) Fit the special tool (cylinder compression gauge) into the spark plug hole.
Special tools:
(A): 09915-64510-001
(B): 09915-64510-002
(C): 09915-64530
(D): 09915-64540
6) Separate the clutch (to lighten the engine‘s starting load), and then press on the accelerator pedal till the throttle
opens totally.
7) Start the engine with a fully charged battery, and read the maximum pressure indicated on the cylinder pressure
gauge.
8) Repeat the steps from 5) to 7) for every cylinder to gain the readings of the 4 cylinders.
9) Upon checking, connect the ignition coil‘s wire harness connector and install the spark plug.
Standard 1400kpa
930~1340 kpa Engine speed: 300r/min or more
Minimum limit 1200kpa
Special tools:
(A): 09915-67310
(B): 09918-08210
3) Run the engine at a specified idle speed, and then read the
vacuum gauge reading.
Check the following aspects first before checking the oil pressure:
If the oil level is too low, fill oil to the position specified by the dip stick.
Special tools:
(A): 09915-77310
6) Once heated up, raise the engine‘s speed to 3,000r/min, and then measure the oil pressure.
7) When the check on oil pressure is finished, shut down the engine and remove the oil pressure gauge.
8) Before re-assembling the engine oil pressure alarm, the threads of it must be wrapped by sealing tape. Tighten it
to the specified torque.
Notice: cut off the stretching part of the sealing tap from the engine oil pressure alarm threads.
Special tools
1. 09915-64510-001 cylinder
pressure gauge
09915-67310 vacuum 1. 09915-77310 engine
2. 09915-64510-002 adaptor
pressure gauge pressure gauge
09915-47310 3. 09915-64530 hose
2. 09915-78211 engine oil
Engine oil filter wrench 4. 09915-645430 accessory pressure gauge fitting
09916-57321 09916-84510
09916-46010 09916-77310
Valve guide installer handle Forceps
Valve guide remover piston ring compressor
Camshaft belt pulley holder Valve guide installer Valve stem seal installer Vacuum pressure gauge
hose coupling
Section Ⅸ Major troubles and troubleshooting method of mechanical engine
parts
Notice: see the steps given for corresponding positions in the Section Ⅶ for the adjustment, removal and
change of fault location in the table.
1. (See ―overheat‖)
Others
Others
Adjust or change
Others Adjust
4. ECU is damaged.
oil leak
1. The spark plug is overheated. Replace with a new one with a suitable heat
value
2. The ignition advance angle is
Abnormal detonation
too large. Adjust
3. The heat valve of the spark Replace with a new one with a suitable heat
plug is not right value
Ⅰ. Composition
The five speed transmission, a fully synchronized transmission, has five forward gears and one reverse gear. It
changes speed by three synchronizers and four shafts (input shaft, main shaft, intermediate shaft and reverse gear
shaft). All the forward gears are in constant mesh, and the reverse gear is of slide construction or setting wheel
structure.
The low speed synchronizer is fixed on the intermediate shaft, and is engaged with the first gear or the second gear
of the intermediate shaft, while the high speed synchronizer is mounted on the input shaft, and is engaged with the
third gear or the fourth gear of the input shaft.
The fifth gear synchronizer fixed on the input shaft meshes with the fifth gear on the main shaft.
The gear shift mechanism and the selector shaft are fixed on the top of the transmission housing, and are equipped
with cams to avoid direct reverse gear from the fifth gear.
For maintenance, the original sealant or an equivalent shall be used on the transmission case bonding surface. A
torque spanner may be used to tighten the bolts to the specified torque. All the parts shall be thoroughly cleaned
with cleaning agent and dried before assembly.
Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis
Adjust
·The clutch pedal travel is not correct.
Change
·The friction plate deforms or fractures.
Change the clutch
·The Clutch pressure plate is damaged.
pressure plate
Difficult to shift gears ·The synchronizer gear ring is worn.
Change
·The chamfering teeth of gear sleeves and gears
Change the sleeves and
are worn.
gears
·The shift shaft deforms.
Change
Temperature
1) Before changing or checking the oil, stop the engine first and lift the car horizontally.
2) Once the car is lifted, check the oil level and make sure whether there is oil leak. If there is, repair it.
3) When the waste oil is drained, apply the sealant to the threads of the oil drain plug, and tighten it to the torque
specified in the following.
4) Fill new oil of given brand according to the specified quantity (till the level reaches the oil level hole)
5) Tighten the oil drain plug and oil filler plug to the specified torque below.
Tightening torque
Notice:
·When the car is lifted up for maintenance without changing the oil, it is still necessary to make checks for
the oil leak.
Summer: 85W/90 GL-5, see the viscosity table on the above figure.
Oil volume: 1.3L
2) Make assembly marks on the joint flanges and the transmission shaft as shown in the figure.
3) Remove the 4 bolts in the rear transmission shaft flange, and then the transmission shaft.
5) Press the new oil seal in the extension tank with special tools and plastic hammers; the grease must be applied to
the oil seal lip.
Special tool:
(A): 09940-51710
6) Clean and check the front worn part (which is to contact the oil seal) of the transmission shaft; if there are
indents or scratches, treat and re-clean it, and then apply grease to the interior splines of the transmission shaft.
7) Assemble the transmission shaft according to the assembly marks, and tighten the flange bolts of the universal
joint to the specified torque.
Notice:
Only given lock washers of bolts, nuts and universal joint flanges can be used.
Tightening torque
(a): 18~28N·m
8) Check the oil level, and add it to the specified level if necessary (the oil level should reach the oil level hole).
3. Gear shift lever and cable
Disassembly
1) Remove the cable clamp and gasket at the transmission control end.
2) Unscrew the two bolts and remove the cable support from the rear transmission cap.
3) Remove the control box, and then remove the cushion plate the of the gear control cable.
4) Remove the shift and selector control cables from the shift lever assembly.
5) Unscrew the four bolts, and take out the shift lever assembly.
Installation
2) The lever ball, if removed from the lever, shall be applied with thread-locking glue before fixed on the lever.
Make sure the lever ball is aligned with the lever.
Notice:
Disassembly
3) Unscrew the bolts and take off the flexible shaft gear from the transmission.
Notice:
4) Take out the spring pin and remove the odometer driven gear.
Notice:
• Use a pin remover of a diameter of 2.8~3.0mm to pull out the 1. Gear hub
spring pin. 2. Oil seal
·In removing the spring pin, do not press or beat the driven gear.
Notice:
Use a L-type hand pushing device to take off the oil seal.
Assembly
1) Be sure that the ―O‖ ring and the case are not damaged, and apply
grease to the ―O‖ ring. 1. Driven gear
2. Gear hub
2) Apply grease to the driven gear, as shown in the figure.
3. O ring
4. Spring pin
3) Apply grease to the lip of the new oil seal; fix it on the bottom, with
5. Oil seal
the lip facing inward. A special tool shall be used for its assembly. 6. Bolt
Special tool:
(A): 09916-46010
4) Check to make sure whether the odometer driven gear has abnormal wear or whether the gear shaft is bent; if
necessary, change them.
5)Insert the driven gear into the hub and fix it with a spring pin, making sure it can rotate smoothly.
6) Fix the gear hub assembly on the transmission and connect the odometer hose.
Tightening torque
1) Remove the negative (-) and positive (+) lines from the battery terminals and lift up the car.
2) Remove the reversing light switch‘s plug connectors from the detachable joints.
3) Remove the black/yellow wire and positive line (+) from the starting motor.
4) Remove the battery negative (-) line from the transmission case and the remove the starting motor.
5) Undo the reversing light switch wires from the wire clip.
7) Remove the oil drain plug, and discharge the transmission oil.
8) Remove the front transmission case, and detach the clutch cable from the clutch throw-out fork.
9) Remove the clip and gasket at the control cable end, and then strip off the shift cable and selector cable from the
levers.
12) Detach the right reinforcement and then remove the lower clutch separator from the transmission case.
1. Left reinforcement
2. Lower separator of clutch housing
3. Clutch housing
Notice:
Check again to make sure all connections are detached before removing the transmission.
14) Unscrew the transmission from the chassis and then fit the bolts and nuts.
Transmission assembly
(c): 61N·m
(d): 23N·m
Notice:
·For the tightening torque of the starting motor bolts, see Section Ⅶ, Chapter Ⅱ.
Ⅳ. Transmission repair
1. Transmission disassembly
Main shaft
1) Unscrew the transmission bolts to remove the transmission mounting elements, and the remove the extension
tank.
2) Remove the main shaft‘s front limiting plate, and then take out the main shaft assembly with a metal bar and
hammer.
Notice:
5) Remove the split ring, and then take out the 5th gear speed synchronizer sleeve and gear hub assembly, the
reverse gear stop ring and cone
7) Use the 5th gear shift shaft to push the low speed shift shaft so as to mesh the intermediate shaft with the input
shaft.
8)Undo the filling ring of the intermediate shaft, and then use the special tool to fix the 5 th gear speed synchronizer
gear hub, and finally remove the intermediate shaft nuts.
Special tool:
(A): 09927-25411
9) Remove the 5th gear shift shaft, synchronizer gear hub and special tool.
10) unscrew the 5 bolts and the take down the rear cover plate.
1) Remove the intermediate shaft, intermediate bearing and spring snap ring.
2) Unscrew the 3 bolts, and take out the selector cable strut.
5) Remove the 3 bolts under the shift guide sleeve, and then pull out the shift and selector shaft assembly.
7) Remove the 5 bolts from the outside of the case, and the other 3 bolts from the front case.
8) Separate the front case and the rear case, and remove them.
9) Remove the shift fixed bolt, and take out the low speed fixed spring, high speed fixed spring and the 5 th gear
fixed spring and the 3 steel balls.
10) Remove the front bearing snap ring of the input shaft.
1. Shift fixed bolt
2. The 5th and
reverse gear fixed
spring (short)
3. High speed fixed
spring (short) 1. Input shaft
4. Low speed fixed 2. Input shaft front
spring (long) bearing
5. Steel ball 3. Snap ring
11) Unscrew the two bolts, and remove the reverse shift lever.
12) Pull out the reverse gear shaft with a gasket, and then take out the reverse slide setting wheel.
13) Beat the input shaft end with a plastic hammer to push it out from the case, and then take out he input shaft
assembly and the intermediate shaft assembly, high speed shift shaft, low speed shaft and the 5the gear shaft and
reverse gear shaft.
14) Remove the input shaft oil seal from the front case if necessary.
Special tool:
(A): 09913-65135
1) Clean thoroughly all the parts and check whether they are abnormal, and change them if necessary.
2) If the synchronizer parts need a repair, check the clearances ―a‖ between gears, between gears and chamfering
gear, and between gears and gear sleeves before determine the part to be changed.
3) Apply gear oil to the front gear, and use a special tool and press to install it, and then fit the spring snap ring.
Special tool:
(A): 09940-51770
4) Mount the steel balls, odometer drive gear and the snap ring.
5) Apply gear oil for transmission case to the rear gear, and then install it with a special tool and press, and finally
mount the spring snap ring.
Special tool
(B): 09940-51770
Disassembly
1) Strip off the spring snap ring, and then use the bearing puller and press to take down the front bearing rom the
input shaft.
2) Remove the spring snap ring, and use the remover and press to pull out the rear bearing.
1. Input shaft
2. Front bearing
3. Bearing remover
1. Input shaft
2. Rear bearing
3) Take out the 4th gear, needle bearing and high speed
3. Remover
synchronizer gear ring.
Notice:
To remove the snap ring successfully, it is recommended to flatten the tool tip.
Special tool:
(A): 09900-06107
5) Use a remover to take down the high speed synchronizer gear sleeve, gear hub assembly and the 3rd gear.
Notice:
Make sure to use the flat side of the remover to avoid damaging the 3rd gear teeth.
1. Snap ring
2. High speed synchronizer gear
sleeve
Check and reassembly
1) Clean thoroughly all the parts, and check if they are abnormal, and replace them with the new ones if necessary.
2) If the synchronizer parts need a repair, check the clearances between gears, between gears and chamfering gears,
and between gears and gear sleeves before determine the part to be changed.
3)To make sure of lubrication, sweep the oil holes to ensure they are not blocked.
1. Gear
2. Synchronizer 1. Input shaft
gear ring 2. Oil hole
4) Apply grease to the front gear, and then use special tools and
press to fix them, and then fit the snap spring
(B): 09940-54950
5) Fit the high speed synchronizer gear sleeve into the gear hub, and then
insert the three sliders into the gear sleeve, and finally mount the spring as
shown in the right figure.
Notice:
·There is no specified direction for the sliders, but they shall be given
one in assembly.
1. Input shaft
·The specification (dimension) of high speed synchronizer gear sleeves, 2. The 3rd gear
hubs, sliders, springs is between that of the low speed synchronizer 3. Synchronizer gear ring
and the 5th gear synchronizer. 4. Gear sleeve and gear hub assembly
6) Fit on the 3rd gear needle bearing and apply grease to it. A. Slider groove
7) Apply gear oil to the 3rd gear and synchronizer gear ring before installed.
8) Use special tools and hammer to beat the high speed shift sleeve and gear hub parts.
Notice:
· High speed synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub 1. High speed
assembly do have specified mounting direction, which can synchronizer spring
be referred to the figure in the step 5). 2. Slider
3. Gear hub
·In pressing to assemble the shift sleeve and gear hub, make 4. Gear sleeve
5. The 3rd gear
sure the synchronizer slider groove aligns with the sliders of
the gear sleeve and gear hub assembly.
·After the gear sleeve and gear hub assembly are installed
by pressing, check if the 3rd gear can rotate flexibly. Clutch side
(The 3rd gear side) A=B
· The synchronizer gear rings of the third gear and the
C: Long flange (clutch side)
fourth gear are the same. D: Slider groove
Special tool:
1. Rear bearing
Notice:
10) Install the synchronizer gear ring. The sliding part of the 4th gear shall be applied with gear oil before assembly.
11) Install the bearings by pressing them with a special tool and hammer, and then mount the spring snap ring.
Special tool
(D): 09925-98221
Disassembly
1) Remove the snap ring, and then use the special tool, remover and press to push out the front bearing.
Special tool:
(A): 09913-85230
2) Take out the first gear, the first gear needle bearing and synchronizer gear ring.
Notice:
The tool tip shall be flat so as to make the removal of snap spring easy.
Special tool:
(B): 09900-06107
1. Intermediate shaft front bearing
2. Bearing remover
1. Intermediate shaft
2. Snap ring
4) Press the remover in the 2nd gear, and then use the press to
pull out the low speed synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub
assembly with gears
7) Set the remover on the drive gear, and pull out the rear 1. Metal bar
2. Rear bearing inner spacer
bearing inner spacer and gear with help of the remover and metal
3. Intermediate shaft drive gear
bar‘s squeezing as well as the press. 4. Remover (the flat side upwards)
Notice:
Make sure the flat side of the remover is used to avoid damage to the drive gear teeth.
1) Clean thoroughly all the parts, and check if they are abnormal, and replace them with the new ones if necessary.
2) If the synchronizer parts need a repair, check the clearances ―a‖ between gears, between gears and chamfering
gears, and between gears and gear sleeves before determine the part to be changed.
3) Mount the 2nd gear‘s needle bearing, and apply gear oil to it.
4) Apply gear oil to the 2nd gear‘s sliding part before fixing the 2nd gear and the 2nd gear synchronizer gear ring.
Notice::
The slider groove width of the 1st gear synchronizer gear ring is smaller than the 2nd synchronizer gear
ring‟s.
Clutch side
Notice: A=B
C: slider groove
·There is no specified direction for the low speed synchronizer gear hub and sliders, but they shall be given
one in assembly.
·The dimension of low speed synchronizer sliders and springs shall be larger than that of the high speed
synchronizer and the 5th gear synchronizer.
6) Use a special tool and hammer to tap into the low speed
synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly.
1. Low speed synchronizer sleeve and gear hub assembly
Notice: 2. The 2nd gear synchronizer ring
3. Intermediate shaft low speed synchronizer
·In pressing to assemble the gear sleeve and gear hub assembly,
make sure the synchronizer gear ring‟s slider groove aligns A: sliding chute aligns with the slider
with the sliders.
·Check if the 1st gear and the 2nd gear can rotate flexibly after
the gear sleeve and gear hub assembly are mounted by
pressing.
Special tool:
(A): 09940-53111
(B): 09913-85210
Notice:
Special tool:
(A): 09913-85210
10) Apply gear oil to the intermediate bearing and install it with a special tool and hammer, and finally mount the
spring snap ring.
Special tool:
(B): 09941-74910
Special tool:
(C): 09925-98221
5. Shift fork
1) To remove parts, the special tools and 2.8-3.0mm pin remover shall be made use of.
Special tools:
(A): 09922-85817(4.5mm)
(B): 09925-78270(6.0mm)
Notice:
Check
Shift shafts of high gear, low gear, the 5th gear and the reverse
gear:
1) Use a feeler to check the clearance between the fork and the gear
sleeve; if the clearance exceeds 1.0mm, the limit, these parts shall be
changed.
Notice:
1) Mount the oil seal facing the input shaft spring side to the clutch side with a special tool and hammer. Apply
grease to the oil seal lip.
Special tool
(A): 009941-74910
Tightening torque
(a): 18~28N·m
Notice:
Notice:
4) Mount the reverse gear lever, and fix it with 2 bolts with
thread lock cement.
Tightening torque
1. Front case
2. Input shaft
3. Intermediate shaft
4. Low speed shift shaft
5. High speed shift shaft
6. The 5th gear and reverse shift shaft
Notice:
6) Clean the two fitting surfaces of the front and rear cases
and then apply sealant on the front case fitting surface
evenly.
Tightening torque
(a): 18~28N·m
8) Fit the reverse shift shaft bolts with aluminum gasket, and tighten them up.
1. Rear case
2. Front case
1. Input shaft oil 3. Case bolt
seal 4. Reverse
Tightening torque shaft bolt
(b): 18~28N·m
9) Fit the other 3 bolts from the front case, and tighten them up to the same torque.
10) Check if the fixed spring are aged, and change the if necessary.
11) Install the steel balls and fixed spring in the shaft
respectively, and tighten them up with bolts applied with thread
lock cement.
Tightening torque
(a): 13~20N·m
Main shaft
Tightening torque
(a): 23N·m
2) Push the low speed gear shift shaft by the 5th gear shift shaft to mesh the intermediate shaft with the input shaft,
as shown in the figure.
3) Install the 5th speed synchronizer gear hub with special tools to make the shaft not rotate.
Special tool
(A): 09927-25411
Free length of setting Standard Maintenance
spring limit 4) Screw the nut of the intermediate shaft, and
tighten it to the specified torque.
High gear, 5th gear
36.7mm 35.6mm
and reverse gear
1. The
1. Input shaft 2. Inp
2. Intermediate 3. T
shaft synch
3. Rear case plate 4. Inte
4. Bolt 5. Inte
5. Rear case
Notice:
The long flange C in the gear hub and the chamfer‟s tooth
space E in the gear sleeve shall be matched inwardly (rear
case side)
Notice:
Tightening torque
(b): 8~14N·m
Extension tank
2) Install the main shaft assembly in the extension tank with a special tool and hammer, and then tighten the front
bearing plate bolt to the specified torque.
Special tool:
(A): 09925-98210
Tightening torque
(a): 18~28N·m
3) Clean up the dirt on the two fitting surfaces of the extension tank and the rear case. Apply sealant to the fitting
surface of the rear cast evenly before assembling the rear case and the extension tank. Finally tighten them up with
7 bolts.
Notice:
In fitting shift and selector shaft assembly, put the gear in the neutral position so as to move the gear shift
lever smoothly.
Tightening torque
(a): 13~20N·m
Tightening torque
(b): 23N·m (c): 20N·m
4) Install the selector cable rod and fasten them with 2 bolts
Tightening torque
(a): 23N·m
5) Check if the input shafts of all gears can rotate. Use a ohmmeter to determine whether the reversing light switch
at the reverse gear can function normally. They shall be subject to conduction when at the reverse gear.
Recommended Suzuki
Materials Use
product
·Sump bolt
Spring snap ring pliers Bearing installer Gear hub clamp Bearing puller
(open type)
4.5mm spring pin 6mm spring pin Bearing installer Input shaft
remover remover bearing installer
Ⅰ. Composition
The clutch is single-plate dry diaphragm spring clutch. The diaphragm spring is a conical diaphragm spring, which
is composed of a ring outside and a group of inner conical pointer. The clutch plate is furnished with three tension
coil springs which is connected to the transmission input shaft by splines and can slip axially.
The clutch case assembly is fixed on the flywheel, while the diaphragm shall be such installed that the fixed part of
the diaphragm spring is able to push the pressure plate to the flywheel (equipped with clutch discs ) when the
release bearing withdraws. This is the clutch engagement.
When the clutch is treaded, the release bearing will move forwards to push the spring conical pointer. Then the
diaphragm will push the pressure plate to divorce from the flywheel, and thus the driving force transferred by the
flywheel to the transmission input shaft through clutch plate is cut.
1. Clutch case
2. Pressure plate
3. Diaphragm spring
4. Release bearing
5. Release fork
6. Upper transmission case
7. Clutch plate
8. Release fork return spring
9. Input shaft bearing
10. Input shaft
11. crankshaft
12. Flywheel
Ⅱ. Trouble diagnosis
·The free pedal travel of clutches is improper. Adjust the free travel
·The free pedal travel of clutches is improper Adjust the free travel
·Clutch discs are burnished (like glass) Repair or change clutch discs
·Release bearings fail to slide smoothly on the Lubricate or change input shaft
Clutch vibrating input shaft bearing retainer. bearing retainer
·The torsion spring in the clutch plate get Change clutch discs
weak.
·The rivets of clutch discs get slack. Change clutch discs
·The front bearing of input shaft is worn. Change the input shaft bearing
Ⅲ. In-car maintenance
1. Free pedal travel of clutches
1) Tread the clutch pedal till a resistance is felt, and then measure the distance (free pedal travel of the clutch). The
free pedal travel shall be with the specified range.
1. Clutch pedal
3) Upon checking the freed pedal travel of the clutch, check if the clutch functions normally when the engine is
started.
A view B view
C view
1. Bottom plate
2. Sleeve
3. Compression rod mounting bracket
4. Cross bar
5. Water pipe
6. Brake pipe
·In fitting the clutch pedal shaft arm to the clutch pedal shaft, the punch mark shall be aligned, as shown in the
7. Air conditioner hose (if equipped)
8.figure.
Cable adjusting nut
·Before installing cables, apply grease to the pins, rivets and shaft arms.
Ⅳ. Parts repair
Disassembly/ assembly
Disassembly
1) Clamp the flywheel with a special tool (A) to remove the clutch pressure plate bolt, clutch case and clutch disc.
Special tool
(A): 09924-17810
2) Draw the input shaft bearing with a special tool (B) and wrench.
Special tool
(B):09917—58010
Check
Check if the bearing can rotate smoothly, and change it if there are
abnormalities.
Measure the sinkage of the rivet head, that is, the distance from the Revit head to the clutch disc surface. If the
depth of any hole exceeds the operating limit, the clutch assembly shall be changed.
Standard: 1.2mm
Clutch case
3) If any abnormality is found, change the assembly, while the diaphragm and pressure plate shall not be
disassembled.
Flywheel
Assembly
Notice:
Special tool
(A): 09924-77810
1. Diaphragm spring
Tightening torque
2. Pressure plate
(a): 40~45 N·m
2) Fit the input shaft bearing to the flywheel with a special tool.
Special tool
(B): 09925-98210
1. Flywheel
2. Bolt
3) Align the clutch disc with the flywheel center with a special tool, and then fit on the clutch case and bolts, and
tighten them to the specified torque.
Notice:
·In tightening the clutch case bolts, press the clutch discs down firmly with a special tool (c) and make sure
the clutch discs align with the center.
Special tool
Tightening torque
4) Apply a little grease to the input shaft, and then connect the transmission assemble with the engine. Refer to
Section Ⅰ for the installation steps.
1. Release bearing
2. Clutch release fork
3. Input shaft
“A”: grease 99000-25210
Notice:
Disassembly
Check if the clutch release bearing can rotate smoothly, and change it if
there is any abnormality.
Caution:
Do not wash the release bearing, or it will wash off the grease and
thus damage the bearing.
Check to make sure whether the clutch release fork and its clamp are damaged or deformed. The clutch fork return
spring shall be checked as well. If there is any abnormality or deformation, change them.
1. Release fork
2. Release bearing
3. Bearing clamp
4. Fork clamp
Assembly 5. Return spring
Assemble them in the reverse order of disassembly, and pay attention to the following requirements in assembly:
·Fit the release bearing, return spring and clamps to the release fork, as shown in the figure.
Ⅴ. Servicing materials
Ⅵ. Special tool
Bearing puller Clutch center guide device Flywheel localizer Input shaft bearing installer
The front universal joint has an inner spline sleeve, in which the spline of transmission input shaft is installed. The
rear universal joint, a flange joint, is connected with the flange fixed on the differential front end by bolts.
Ⅱ. In-car maintenance
1. Drive shaft
Maintenance
Disassembly
2) Make an assembly mark on every joint‘s flange and drive shaft before the drive shaft is removed, as shown in the
figure.
Special tool
(A): 09900-06108
2) Use a special tool (B) to pull the cross bearing race out 3~4mm
from the yoke race
Notice:
Apply permeable lubricant between the bearing race and the yoke race before pulling out the cross bearing
race.
Special tool:
(B): 09926-48010
3) Hit the drive shaft yoke with a hammer to remove the bearing
race thoroughly.
4) Remove the bearing race at the other side with the same
method as 2) and 3).
Pull out the bearing race at the flange yoke side with the same method as 1) and 2). Then hold the bearing race with
a vice, and hammer the flange yoke to take out the race (see figure). Remove the bearing race at the opposite side
with the same method.
Notice:
Check
Check if the drive shaft and flange yoke are damaged, and give a check to
the radial run-out of the drive shaft as well. If there is damage or the radial
run-out exceeds the limit, change the drive shaft or the flange yoke.
Assembly
1. Vice
Notice
Notice:
In reassembly, be sure to use new snap rings, crosses and bearings. The
old removed snap springs, crosses and bearing are not permitted to
reuse.
1) Insert the bearing race into the yoke and hammer it to be flush with the
yoke surface. Meanwhile, insert the cross into the bearing race to avoid the
1. Cross
needles in the bearing race rolling out. 2. Bearing
2) Insert the bearing race at the opposite side into the yoke and hammer it to be flush with the yoke surface.
3) Insert the bearing race into the flange yoke at the other side with the same methods as 1) and 2).
5) Fix the shaft and flange yoke of universal joint with 4 snap
rings.
1. Copper hammer
2. Bearing race
3. Yoke
4. Cross
Notice:
·Check and make sure the shaft yoke and flange yoke can rotate flexibly after assembly.
·Make sure every snap ring is firmly fitted into the groove.
Assembly
Assemble the drive shaft in the reverse order of disassembly, and pay attention to the following main points:
·In assembling the drive shaft, the assembly marks shall be aligned, or there will be vibrating in driving.
Tightening torque
(a): 18~28N·m
Notice:
If the transmission oil flows away in removing the drive shaft, the specified gear oil shall be filled in the
transmission case to the specified level.
Ⅲ. Servicing materials
Section Ⅳ Differential
Ⅰ. Composition
The differential is made up of the parts as shown in the figure. The gear drive mechanism of this differential is of
hypoid design, and its drive gear and driven gear are hypoid gears. This means the driven gear is installed slightly
below the drive gear centerline. Thus, the height of the car body can be reduced in design. Gear engagement will
result to frictional contact and slippage. This is why the differential shall use the specified hypoid gear oil.
1. Bevel drive/driven gear 2. Differential case 3. Differential bearing 4. Differential adjusting screw
5. Side gear 6. Planetary gear 7. Side gear adjusting shim 8. Planetary gear shaft
9 Planetary gear adjusting shim 10, 14. Drive gear shaft bearing 11. Drive gear shaft adjusting shim 12. Drive gear sleeve
Ⅱ. Trouble diagnosis
·The gear oil deteriorates or contains water. Change and refill the
oil
·The gear oil is inadequate or the brand is wrong.
Change or refill the
·The clearance between the bevel drive gear and the
oil
bevel driven gear is incorrect.
Gear noises Adjust
·The meshing contact of the bevel drive gear and the
bevel driven gear is improper. Adjust or change
·The fixed bolts of the bevel driven gear get loose. Change or re-tighten
·(Unchanged noise) the gear oil deteriorates or contains Change and refill the
water. oil
·(Unchanged noise) the gear oil is inadequate or the Change and refill the
brand is wrong. oil
Bearing noises
·(Noises produced in sliding) the bevel drive gear Change
bearing is damaged.
Change
·(Noises produced in turning) the differential side gear
bearing or the rear axle bearing is damaged.
Notice:
As for the cars travelling in the areas where the temperature is
below-15℃ in cold seasons, it is recommended to use 75W/90 GL-5
or 80 W/90 GL-5 for periodic maintenance.
4) Fit on the sealing gasket and oil filler plug, and tighten them to the
specified torque.
Tightening torque
(b): 35~50N·m
2. Disassembly
1) Stop the car on a safety platform, and then pull out the left/right axle shaft. See ―Disassembly of Rear Axle‖ in
Chapter 5 in the manual for the method.
2) Unscrew the bolts connecting the final drive, flange and drive shaft flange from the deferential case to strip off
the drive shaft. Unscrew the 8 bolts connecting the final drive and axle housing to take down the final drive and
differential.
3. Assembly
The assembly shall be in the reverse order of disassembly, and pay attention to the following requirements:
·Clean the joint face of the differential and axle housing first before inserting the differential into the axle housing,
and apply sealant to it. After assembly, tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(a): 18-28N·m
·For the assembly of rear suspension, please see the ―Assembly of Rear Axle‖ the Chapter 4 in the manual.
·To make sure the air in the brake oil pipe circuit is expelled, see the ―Exhaust‖ operation of brake in chapter 6.
Finally check and make sure the oil pipe joint has no oil leak.
1) Clamp down the flange, and unscrew the adjusting nuts at the bevel drive gear shaft side.
2) Make a mark on every bearing cap of the differential. The bearing cap is to fasten axle bearings, and the mark is
to identify bearings. As some bearings are left bearing, and some are right bearing, they shall be marked to make it
easy to identify and install in reassembly.
A: Assembly mark
3) Unscrew the lock bolts and bearing cap bolts and remove the left and ring bearing caps, and then take out the
differential assembly from the final drive housing.
4) Use a special tool to remove the right axle bearing from the differential case.
Special tools
(A): 09913-60910
(B): 09913-85230
5) Unscrew the bolts fixing the bevel driven gear on differential case, and then remove the gear.
6) As shown in the figure, pull out the planetary gear shaft, side gear and thrust washer.
Special tool
(C): 09922-85811
7) Use a special tool to remove the left axle bearing from the differential case.
Special tools
(A): 09913-60910
(B): 09915-85250
1. Left axle shaft
2. Adjustment
bearing
Differential side gear clearance
Check the gear clearance with soft fuses.
According to the clearance check standard, squash the fuse and measure its thickness, and compare it with the
specified clearance in the following table.
If necessary, change the thickness of thrust washers to adjust the clearance.
If the fuse fails to measure the differential side gear clearance, the side gear thrust clearance shall be
measured. If the maximum thrust clearance is 0.37mm, the side gear clearance is considered acceptable. To
measure the thrust clearance, a suitable flat washer or gasket shall be placed on the side gear.
Special tool:
(A): 09900-20606
To correctly mesh the bevel drive gear with the driven gear, it is required to use the adjusting shim below to fit the
drive gear to the final drive housing beforehand. The following is the relevant position of the drive gear, final drive
housing and installation copying machine.
1) Fit the bevel drive gear installation copying machine with bearings into the differential final drive housing and
tighten the flange nuts so as to make the bearing pre-load meet the specification.
Notice:
·Gaskets or oil seals are unnecessary for the assembly.
·Manually check the bearing to make sure whether it can rotate, and apply a little lubricating oil to it before
measuring it with a spring balance or torque wrench.
Special tools
(A): 09922-75222
(B): 09924-36320
Special tool
(A): 09924-36320
(B): 09900-20606
3) Place a dial indicator on the copying tool, with its probe stretching 5~6mm out the copying tool bottom. Place
the copying tool on a plate to return the dial indicator to zero.
Special tools
(A): 09924—36320
1. Plate
(B): 09900—20606 2. Screw
4) Fit a copying planetary gear into the final drive housing, as shown
in the figure, and locate it properly.
Tightening torque
See the figure, and pay attention to the three dimensions: ―a‖, ―b‖ and
―c‖. ―b‖ value is unknown, and is the gasket thickness to be calculated.
―a‖ + ―c‖ equals 85mm.
5) In case the copying machine is firmly fixed, dial indicator finger
has deflected from ―0‖ to indicate a valve, which is ―b‖. This value
adds 85mm (―a‖ + ―c‖) and then subtracts the value marked on the
bevel drive gear is the desired gasket thickness.
6) The are four gaskets of different thickness for option. In selecting and
combining the gaskets, be sure that the total thickness shall be consistent
with the desired thickness as much as possible. Then insert the selected
gasket into the clearance ―d‖, as shown in the figure.
―d‖ clearance
Bevel drive
gear gasket 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, & 0.5mm
dimension
1. Electric wrench
2. Socket spanner
3. Spring balance
4. Torque wrench
Pay attention to setting the drive gear pre-load to the specified value when using a flange localizer (special tool)
and electric wrench to tighten up the flange nuts
Notice:
In adjusting, if the following given specification is exceeded, change the pad and repeat the pre-load
adjusting procedures. Do not unscrew the gear nuts to reduce the initial torque (pre-load).
-3
Bevel drive gear bearing pre-load: 5.0~13.0×10 N·m
-3
Initial torque: 1.0~2.6×10 N·m
Special tools
(A): 09922-75222
(B): 09922-66020
1) Check the clearance between the bevel driven gear and the drive gear by the method as shown in the figure.
Notice that the final drive housing assemble shall be installed by common methods, and the axle bearing bolts shall
be tightened up to fix the differential case assembly downwards. Align the dial indicator with the tooth root at the
gear drive side (convex side). Then grasp the bevel drive gear to move the bevel driven gear to and fro.
Tightening torque
(a): 15N.m
Special tool
Special tool
(C): 09930-40113
Caution:
Special tool
(D): 09922-75222
The tightening torque of bearing cap bolts after adjusted shall be: 30~37N·m
Check and adjustment of the engagement of bevel drive gear and bevel driven gear
Engagement system Diagnosis and treatment Engagement system Diagnosis and treatment
Outer end
Driven surface Change the differential
Drive surface
case
Front differential Front differential
fails to operate drives
Normal
Inner end
Low contact
High contact
1) After the tooth surface of the 10 bevel driven gears are cleaned, use a
brush or a sponge to apply coloring materials to the gears (red lead
powder for instance).
2) Turn the driven gear to mesh the colored part with the bevel drive gear;
manually turn the gear to and fro the mesh them repeatedly.
3) Check the engagement system (see the above table). If the engagement
system is not correct, adjust them as indicated in the table or change them. 1. Brush A: apply gear mark
compound evenly
Notice:
The bevel driven gear shall not make a complete turn, for it will hinder making accurate checks.
3. Assembly
The assembly shall be carried out in the reverse order of the disassembly, and pay attention to the following
requirements:
Notice:
The bevel drive gear and the bevel driven gear are supplied in pairs. Even only the bevel drive gear or the
bevel driven gear needs to be changed, they shall be changed
simultaneously in pairs.
The bolts that fasten the bevel driven gear to the differential case will
undertake a shear stress, for it is through the bolts that the force is
transferred from the driven gear to the differential case. Thus, these bolts
shall be special purpose bolts made of chrome steel, and shall not be
replaced with plain bolts.
Tightening torque
The 2 tapered roller bearings must be fitted on the drive gear shaft by
pressing, with the outer race fitted into the final drive housing and the inner
race fitted to the bevel drive gear shaft.
1) The outer race of the front bearing (at the yoke side) shall be installed with
a special tool:
Special tool
(A): 09913-75520
2) The installer for the outer race of the rear bearing (at the gear side) is:
Special tool
(B): 09915-75510
Special tool
(C): 09940-51710
Use a special tool to correctly fit the bearing into the differential case
by pressing. Do not hit them into the case.
Special tool
(A): 09940-53111
Ⅴ. Servicing materials
Lithium grease Suzuki super grease A (99000-25010) Oil seal cover lip
Bearing removal clip Spring platinum puller Bearing installer Magnetic stand
Ⅰ. Composition
The front suspension is an independent strut-and-link type suspension, as shown in the following figure. The strut
upper end connects the car body through a strut member. The strut and the strut member are separated by a rubber
mounting member, under which a strut bearing is fitted.
The lower end of the strut connects the steering knuckle‘s upper end, which links the ball stud. The ball stud
integrates the swing arm to form a device. The tie rod connects the steering knuckle.
Thus the action of the steering wheel is transferred to the tie rod and then to the steering knuckle so as to turn the
wheels. During the operating procedure, with the motion of the steering knuckle, the strut will move through strut
bearing and lower ball stud.
: Direction of forward motion 1. Front strut assemble 2. Steering knuckle 3. Suspension swing arm
4. Ball stud 5. Wheel bearing 6. Front hub 7. Front wheel 8. Stabilizer bar 9. Strut bar 10. Steering tie rod
Stabilizer bar
Check to make sure whether there is damage or deformation; if there are defects, change them.
Bushing
Check to make sure whether there is damage, wear or deterioration; if there are defects, change them.
Strut bar
Check to make sure whether there is damage or deformation; if there are defects, change them.
Bushing
Check to make sure whether there is damage, wear or deterioration; if there are defects, change them.
1) Check if the shock absorber leaks oil. If it does leak oil, it shall be
changed entirely, for it is impossible to be disassembled.
4) Check the ball stud clearance. If there are defects, change it.
Notice:
The swing is and ball stud cannot be separated from each other.
1) Check if the wheel discs have dents, deformation and cracks. The
wheels that are badly damaged must be changed.
3) Check the wear of wheel bearings. In measuring the thrust clearance, remove the wheel axle cover from the
wheel disc first and then use a dial indicator to measure at the hub.
If the measured value exceeds the limit, change the hub assembly.
4) Check if the wheel axles have noises by turning the wheels and if they can turn smoothly. If there are defects,
change the hub assembly.
1. Stabilizer bar
2. Painting point
Ⅲ. In-car maintenance 3. Stabilizer bar joint
4. Strut bar
1.Stablizer bar and bushing
Disassembly
1) Jack up the car to hang the front swing arm in the air.
5) Remove the joints from the stabilizer bar. When the joint nuts are
unscrewed, the bolts shall be held by a wrench.
Assembly
·In assembling the stabilizer bar, all the parts shall be fitted together in order and make sure that the stabilizer bar
is at the center.
Notice:
To correctly install the stabilizer bar, the colored paint on it shall be aligned with the left and right mounting
bushings, as shown in the figure.
Caution:
Be careful to tighten the stabilizer connecting nuts so as to coincide the cushion with the washer.
Tightening torque:
(a): 25 N·m
(b): 55 N·m 1. Strut bar mounting bolt 5. Strut bar rear nut
2. Strut bar support 6. Strut bar front nut
(c): 23N·m 3. Strut bar bushing 7. Strut bar
4. Strut bar rear washer 8. Suspension swing arm
2. Strut bar and bushing 9. Strut bar front washer
Disassembly
2) Remove the stabilizer bar. Please refer to the steps 2) -4) ―Removal of Stabilizer Bar Bushing‖.
See the right figure to correctly install the strut bar bushing and
E shaped ring
its rear washer.
Tightening torque
(a): 55 N·m
(b): 65 N·m
(c): 95N·m
If there are parts in the front strut assembly damaged, please change the strut assembly, which is removed by the
flowing procedures.
Disassembly
4) As shown in the figure, remove the E-shaped ring used to fix brake hoses and remove the brake hoses from the
strut support.
5) As shown in the figure, remove the caliper pin bolts and incline the caliper.
Caution:
When the caliper is inclining, be careful not pull hard the brake hose so
as to avoid damage.
6) Remove the wire harness retainer bolt of wheel speed sensor from the strut 1. Caliper pin bolt
2. Brake hose
(if equipped). 3. Caliper
7) Remove the strut support bolts.
8) Remove the strut member nuts and hold them by hand to avoid falling down.
1) Assemble them in the reverse order of the disassembly procedures from 1) to 9), and fit the bolts on the positions
as shown in the right figure.
Tightening torque
(a): 73 N·m
(b): 95 N·m
(c): 35 N·m
Notice:
4. Hub/wheel stud
Disassembly
2) Remove the axle cover as shown in the figure (tap the three points around the cover with a hammer, and be
careful not to deform or damage the axle cover seat).
Note:
Lift the caliper with a crampon and alike to avoid the brake hoses being excessively bent or pulled out.
Do not press the brake pedal after brake discs are removed.
Special tools
(A): 09943—17912
(B): 09942—15510
Notice:
Assembly
Fit the hub to the wheel axle, and tighten the new wheel axle nuts to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(b): 95N·m
5) Screw up the wheel axle nuts as shown in the figure.
Warning:
Be careful to screw up the nuts so as not to let the lock groove of the nuts have cracks. The cracked nuts
must be changed.
Disassembly
2) Remove the strut bar front nuts from the swing arm.
Use a special tool and the hydraulic equipment to pull out the bushing, as shown in the figure.
Special tool
(A): 09943-77910
Assembly
1) Bushing installation
Special tool
(A): 09943-77910
Notice:
·Before installing the busing, dip it in soapy water to make it easier to be installed.
·As shown in the figure, the dimension of left and right sides of the bushing shall be equal after installed.
1. Hydraulic equipment
2) Fit the swing arm to the suspension. The bolts and nuts shall be
fit on the correct position, as shown in the right figure. 1. Swing arm
Forward
Notice::
3) Fit the ball stud to the steering knuckle, aligning the ball stud
groove with the steering knuckle bolt holes as shown in the figure.
Then screw in the ball stud bolts in the direction as shown in the
figure and tighten them to the required torque.
Tightening torque
Tightening torque
(b): 100N·m
1. Strut bar
2. Strut bar front nuts
3. Swing arm
5) Fit on the wheels and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque. See “Technical Requirement of
Tightening Torque” in this section.
6) Let down the jack and tighten the swing arm nuts to the
specified torque under the condition of no load.
Tightening torque
(c):73N·m
1. Steering knuckle
2. Tie rod end
3. Puller
3) Use a puller to remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
4) Remove the wheel speed sensor (if equipped) from the steering knuckle.
5) Remove the ball stud from the steering knuckle, and then remove the strut bracket bolts from the strut
bracket.
Assembly
1) Fit the steering knuckle to the ball stud and strut bracket
on the swing arm, with the installation position as shown in
the figure. Align the steering knuckle bolt holes with the ball
stud groove to fit on the ball stud bolts. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to the specified torque. 1. Strut 3. Ball stud arm
2. Steering knuckle 4. Swing arm
Tightening torque
1. Tie rod end
2. Steering knuckle
(a): 95N·m
3. Nut
(b): 55N·m
Tightening torque
(c): 45 N·m
Notice
In tightening the nuts at the tie rod end, jack up the tie rod end so as not to move the ball stud.
4) The procedures of assembly are as mentioned above. See the steps 1) -7) in “Hub/Wheel Bolt” in this
section.
Disassembly
2) Remove the swing arms (left and right). See the steps
from 2) to 5) in “Removal of Swing Arms” in this section.
Assembly
1) Fit on the suspension bracket and tighten its bolts to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(a): 100N·m
2) Fit the wheel speed sensor wire harness clamp bolts and clamps to the suspension bracket (if equipped).
3) Fit on the steering gearbox housing mounting bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(b): 25 N·m
4) Fit on the swing arms (left and right). See the steps from 2) to 6) in “Removal of Swing Arms” in this
section.
1. 09900-0041
Hexagon wrench socket 09943-17912
2. 09900-00414 09945-26010 09942-15510 Front hub puller
Hexagon wrench head Socket wrench Sliding weight (brake drum puller)
09943-77910
Adjusting bushing
puller
Ⅰ. Composition
The rear suspension system is of integral axle type which makes use of leaf springs, as shown in the figure below.
1. Shock absorber
Disassembly
3) Remove the upper support nuts and then remove the shock absorber.
Assembly
2. Leaf spring
Disassembly
Leaf spring
1) Lift up the car. In doing so, the jack or crane shall not prop the rear suspension parts to jack or lift up the car. If a
jack is made use of, a safety platform must be placed under the car chassis to support the jacked car.
Notice:
Do not let the rear axle housing hang on the brake hoses or pipes. If so, the hoses or pipes may be ripped. To avoid
such case, a safety platform shall be used to support the rear axle housing of the jacked car any time.
2) Remove the rear wheel and release the parking brake cable from the clip.
5) Pull out the leaf spring front bolts and tear down the leaf spring from the lug pin.
Assembly
Make press fit for lug pin bushing. Dip the bushing in water or soapy water to make it easy.
Notice:
Leaf spring
1) Install the lug pins from the car center to the outside.
2) Fit on the leaf spring front bolts from the car outside to the inside.
3) Fit the leaf spring center bolts and nuts into the spring seat holes, and the tighten the U-shaped bolts and nuts to
the specified torque.
4) Tighten the lug pin nuts and spring front nuts to the specified torque under no-load conditions.
6) Fit on the rear wheels and tighten them to the specified torque.
Forward Rear
Notch
(narrow) Leaf spring
Leaf spring
1. Leaf spring
Every piece of leaf spring shall be
2. Leaf spring bushing aligned at the edge.
Forward Rear
Spring upper seat
Disassembly
6)Rotate the brake shoe pressure pin to remove the brake shoe
pressure spring.
8mm bolt
7) Take apart the parking brake cable from the parking brake shoe lever
and remove the brake shoe.
8) Remove the parking brake cable clip and disassemble the brake
cable from the brake bottom plate.
10) Remove the brake bottom plate nut from the rear axle
housing.
11) Use the special tools (A and B) to pull out the axle
shaft connecting with the brake bottom plate.
Sliding weight
13) To remove the retainer form the axle shaft, use a lapping machine to grind the two parts of the bearing retainer
till they get thin, as shown in the figure.
Caution:
Be careful not grind over the head surface to damage the axle shaft.
Universal puller
Use a chisel to unclench the thinned part of the retainer and remove it.
Bearing puller
14) Use the special tools (C and D) to remove the bearing from the axle shaft and then remove the brake bottom
plate.
Assembly
1) Fit the parts shown in the figure below to the axle Retainer
shaft.
Notice:
When fitting the hub bolts to the axle shaft, make sure the
bolt head firmly fits into the cascading part of the axle
shaft.
Notice:
3) If it is sure that the retainer contacts the bearing, clean up the retainer and apply adequate wheel bearing grease
to the it.
4) Check to make sure that the oil seal seat and the oil seal are both correctly fitted to the rear axle.
Notice:
Oil
No matter whether there is oil leak, the oil seal, if removed, shall be a new oneseal
for reassembly.
Spring
Refer to the right figure for the installation direction of oil seal. Be sure to apply superior grease A
(99000-25010) to the oil seal lip.
Apply grease
Wheel side
Differential side
6) Fit the axle shaft into the rear axle housing and tighten the brake
bottom plate firmly to the specified torque.
7) Remove the intake plug cover from the pipe end, and then
connect the brake pipe to the wheel brake cylinder and tighten
the coupling nuts to the specified torque.
8) Apply waterproof sealant to the contact of the plate and the wire cable, and then thread the parking brake cable
through the brake bottom plate and buckle it up tightly with a clip.
9) Connect the brake shoe lever to the brake parking lever and fit on
the brake shoe.
12) Fill a given amount of specified gear oil into the rear axle housing (differential gearbox), and tighten the plugs
of the oil filler and oil drain hole to the specified torque.
13) Exhaust the air in the brake pipe, and refill the brake fluid into the fluid reservoir.
14) Fit on the rear wheel and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
16) Check the brake drum to make sure it can rotate freely and play a proper role in braking, and then let down the
jacked car to carry out brake test.
Ⅲ. In-car maintenance
Rear shock absorber
Check if they have cracks or damage. If they are defective, change them. Check if the buffer stopper is fixed on the
correct position. If it deviates, change it.
If there are abnormal noises in driving where the lug pin bushing is not worn, remove the bushing and apply grease
to the parts shown in the figure.
2) Check if the wheel nuts are tightened up, and tighten the to the
specified torque as necessary.
3) Check if the wheel bearings are worn. In measuring the axial clearance, set a dial indicator on the hub when the
wheel center cap is removed from the wheel disc. If the measured value exceeds the limit, change the bearings.
4) Jack up the car frame and turn the wheels to check whether the wheel bearings have noises and whether they can
rotate smoothly. If there are undesirable phenomena, change the bearings.
Ⅰ. Composition
Notice: all wheel fasteners are an integral part of the car, so they may even have impacts on the performance
of critical components and systems, and bring about huge maintenance costs accordingly. If necessary to be
changed, they must be replaced with those of the same brand or equivalence, and not with the inferior
substitutes ever. They must, when reassembled, be tightened to the specified torque to ensure all parts of
suitable tightness.
Do not weld these fasteners so as to avoid excess damage or weakness in mental strength.
1. Tire
This type of tire is tubeless. The tire, when reaching to a certain pressure as specified, is such designed that it can
still work normally when borne a maximum load.
Appropriate tire pressure and driving habits have a major influence on tire life . Sharp turns, fast acceleration and
unnecessary hard braking will aggravate tear wear.
2. Tire
There are two standard configuration for wheel: steel rim and aluminum rim: 14×5J (13×5J)
If it is necessary to change tires, it is recommended to use those the same as the original. See the tire schedule. The
substitute tires shall be consistent with the original ones in terms of size, load range and structure. The tires of other
types will result to influences on the travelling, driving, speedometer/ odometer readings, ground clearance, and the
clearance between the tire or tire chain and the car body and chassis.
Warning:
Metric tire gauges can be available from the suppler. The right table lists the conversion of the three units: kPa,
kgf/cm2 and psi for reference.
4.Change of tire
If the wheels have bending, dents, great lateral or radial run-outs, air
leakage in welding lines, prolonged bolt hole, untight lug bolt nuts or
excessive rustiness, they must be changed. If the radial or lateral run-outs
of the wheel exceed the limits in the table below, harmful vibration will be
resulted from.
The changed tires must be consistent with the original in terms of load
capacity, diameter, rim deviation and assembly structure. The wheels of
inappropriate size or type will have an impact on the life of wheels and
bearings, cooling of brake, speedometer/odometer readings, ground
clearance and the clearance between the tire and car body and chassis.
To measure the run-out value of wheels, it is necessary to use a precise dial 1. Radial run-out
indicator. The tire can be fitted on the wheel or removed. For correct 2. Lateral run-out
measurement, the wheel shall be fixed on wheel balancer alike.
Measure the radial and lateral run-outs at the inner and outer sides of the rim flange. Put the dial indicator in place,
and turn the wheel slowly to write down the reading on the dial indicator.
When the measured run-out exceeds the specified value and cannot be adjusted by a balancing machine, the wheels
shall be changed. The readings resulted from welding lines, baking varnish or scratching shall be ignored.
Lateral run-out
Radial run-out limit
limit
All types of wheel use the metric nuts with lug and wheel bolts (specification: M12×12.5).
2. Wheel balance
The balance of wheels and tires is divided into two types: static and dynamic balances.
Static balance, as shown in the right figure, is to distribute the weight evenly around the wheel. Non-static balance
will bring about wheel run-out, so it is called pitch, which will cause uneven tire wear.
The stones in the tread pattern shall be eliminated so as to avoid hurting the operators when the wheel is
turned and get good balance.
The tires shall be checked for damage and then undergo the balance test as required by the equipment manufacturer.
Most dynamic balancers are better than the built-in rotary balancers in terms of accuracy. They are easy to use and
are able to provide dynamic (two surfaces) balance. Though they cannot rectify brake drum or brake disc
imbalances, their accuracy suffices to overcome the defect. Their accuracy is always under 0.044kg.
The method of aboard balancing varies with the equipment and tool manufacturers. In carrying out the balancing,
please follow the manufacturer‘s recommendations.
Warning:
The wheel speed shall be limited to 55km/h. It is necessary to set the limit because of the action of differential
planetary gear. When the driving wheel at one side turns and the one at the other side stop turning, the
speedometer can only indicate half of the actual maximum wheel speed.
Bolts
1. Paint point
If bolts are found to be damaged, change them timely.
The tires are installed in combination with the wheels at assembly plants. The tires and wheels are fitted together to
undergo dynamic balance test. The tires and wheels are marked with paint so as not to damage the tire‘s dynamic
balance, so pay attention to aligning the paint points on the tires and wheel in assembly.
If it is impossible to confirm the paint points on the tire, please draw a line on the tire and wheel before removed to
ensure their position are identical in reassembly.
Tire pressure
The tire pressure of any type of tires are carefully calculated to get desired travelling, stability and steering, reduce
tire wear and prolong tire life.
The tire pressure shall be checked once a month before long-distance driving when the tire is in a cooling state (the
car is parked for more than 3 hours, or travels less than 1.6km). The tire pressure shall be adjusted to the specified
value as indicated by the labels on the door (right door if it is right hand steering)lock support bar.
Traveling may cause the tire to heat, so it is normal when the tire pressure rises to 28kPa accordingly.
Be careful not to exhaust the air or reduce the tire pressure immediately after a long-distance travel, for the air
exhaust will reduce the ―cold tire pressure‖.
1. Uneven braking
3. Reduction in operability
4. deflection in accelerating
The valve covers shall cover the valves to avoid ingress of dust and water.
If the tire pressure is less than the recommended value, it will cause:
2. Difficult steering
6.Tire overheat
7. Reduction in operability
Tire specification
It is on the right door (the left door if it is a car with the steering wheel on
the right-hand side) lock support bar. See this specification for the tire
information.
This specification gives the maximum load, tire size and applicable cold 1. Front tire
tire pressure. 2. Rear tire
3. Spare tire
Tire rotation:
To ensure the tires to be worn equally, they shall be rotated according to the right figure. When the car first travels
10,000km the tires shall be rotated. Then it is recommended to rotate the tires every 10,000km and adjust the tire
pressure.
Ⅳ. In-car maintenance
1. Wheel
Disassembly
Notice:
Do not unscrew the tight wheels by heating, for the heating will reduce the
wheel life and damage the wheel bearings.
Assembly
The wheel nuts must be tightened to a suitable torque one after another to avoid
bending the wheel and brake disc, as shown in the right figure.
Additionally, the wheel nuts must be tightened to a suitable torque one after another
to avoid bending the wheel and brake disc.
Notice:
Prior to wheel assembly, the rust set on the mounting surfaces of both the wheel and brake disc shall be
scraped or brushed by a wire brush.
In fitting on wheels, if the metal on the mounting surfaces fails to joint well, it may cause the wheel nuts to get
loose, and even cause the wheel to come off the car in driving.
2. Tire
Installing or removing tires with tire changers shall follow the manufacturer‘s recommendations. Do not use the
hand tool or the tire iron alone to change the tires, for they may damage the tire bead or the rim.
A steel brush may be used to clean up the bead of rim, or heavy steel wool may be employed to eliminate the
lubricant, old rubber and some rust. Before the tire is installed or removed, appropriate tire lubricant shall be
properly applied to the tire bead.
After the assembly, the tire shall be inflated to the specified tire pressure (as indicated in the tire specification) to let
the bead completely sit on the ground.
Notice:
Do not stand on the tire when it is inflated, or the bead may break and cause serious personal injuries.
The tire shall not be inflated to exceed the specified tire pressure. If the bead fails to sit on the ground, it
shall be deflated to lubricate and inflate it again.
Tire repair
There are many different materials and methods for tire repair on the market. As these materials and methods are
not all applicable to all the types of tires, tire manufacturers publish detailed descriptions about how and when to
repair tires. These descriptions are available from tire manufacturers.
Chapter Ⅴ Steering system
·The wheel bearings are worn or loosened. Change the wheel bearings
·The tire or wheel is unbalanced. Balance the wheel or change the tire
or wheel
·The wheel bearings are damaged or worn.
Change the wheel bearings
·The ball stud of steering tie rod is worn.
Change the steering tie rod end
·The left and right ball studs of the front
cantilever are worn. Change the front cantilever
Front wheel ·The he radial runout of wheels is excessive. Repair or change the wheel or change
shimmy, vibration the tire
·The tire has bulges or damage.
and hop Change the tire
·The wheel assembly has overloaded radial
runout. Change the tire or wheel
·The front wheel is misaligned. Check and change the front wheel
alignment
·The steering link gets loosened or worn.
Tighten or change the steering link
·The mounting bolts of steering gear box get
loose. Tighten or change the gear box bolts
·The ball joints of the steering tie rod or Change the ball joints of the steering tie rod
of the left and right front suspension arms or the front suspension arm
Difficult are jammed.
steering
·The front wheel is misaligned.
Check and adjust the front wheel‘s
·The rack and pinion is improperly alignment.
adjusted.
Check and adjust the torque of racks and
·The steering column. pinions
Repair or change
·The rack and pinion is not adjusted Check and adjust the torque of racks and
correctly. pinions
Great steering ·The steering shaft universal joint is Change the universal joint
wheel worn.
clearance Change the steering tie rod end or the
·The end of the steering tie rod or the ball steering tie rod
joint at the inner side of the steering tie
rod is worn.
Change the front suspension arm
·The ball joints of left and right
suspension arms are worn.
·The ball joint at the steering tie rod end Change the steering tie rod end.
is jammed.
Change the front suspension arm
·The ball joints are jammed.
Repair or change
·The steering column is jammed.
Check, repair or apply lubricating oil to the
Bad ·The racks and pinions are badly racks or pinions
Returnability of lubricated.
Check and adjust the front wheel alignment
steering wheel
Check and adjust the torque of racks and
·The front wheel is misaligned. pinions.
·The steering tie rod end, (left and right Change the steering tie rod end, front
front suspension arms) ball joints, ball suspension arm, steering tie rod or
joints at the inner side of the steering tie transmission shaft joint
rod or transmission shaft joints are worn,
loose or fail to rotate freely.
Repair or change
·The strut or mounting members are
damaged. Change 。
·The cantilever bushing is worn. Tighten the bolts and change the bushing
·The tires are unmatched or the inflation Change the tires or inflate the tires to
pressure is uneven. a suitable pressure
·The front cantilever ball joints and steering Change the suspension arm or
Steering swing or tie rod end get loosened. steering tie rod end
poor steering
·The shock absorber/strut or mounting Change the strut or repair mounting
stability
members are out of order. members
·The stabilizer bar gets loosened. Tighten or repair the stabilizer bar or
bushing
·The springs are damaged or hang down.
·The racks and pinions are inappropriately Change the springs
adjusted.
Check and adjust the racks and
·The front wheel is misaligned. pinions
·The connecting ball joints of the stabilizer Check and adjust the front alignment
bar are loose.
Change the connecting ball joints of
the stabilizer bar
Instable steering in ·The tire is under-inflation. Inflate the tires to a suitable pressure
braking
·The front wheel is misaligned. Check and adjust the front wheel
alignment
·The brake works inconsistently.
See chapter 7
·The shock absorber or strut breaks down. Change the shock absorber or strut
The suspension is ·Overloaded. Check the loads
pressed down to the
bottom. ·The shock absorber or strut is out of order. Check the shock absorber or strut
·The springs are out of order or hang down. Change the springs
·The stabilizer bar is loosened or damaged. Tighten the stabilizer bar bolts or
nuts, or change the bushing or joints
The tire gets ·The wheel bearings are worn. Change the wheel bearings
concave. ·The runout of tires and wheels are great. Change the tires or rims
·The ball joints of the front cantilever are Change the front suspension arm
worn. Adjust the tires
There are many causes for irregularity or premature wear. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressure, no tire
rotation, bad driving habits and inappropriate alignment of front wheel.
1) The wear of front tires is different from that of the rear tires.
The wheels must undergo an alignment check if any of the following cases happens:
1) The wear of the left and right front wheels are not equal.
2) The lateral ground contact surface of the front tires has uneven wear.
2. Wear indicator
The original tires are equipped with built-in tread wear indicators to examine whether
there is need for change. When the groove of the tread patterns is 1.6mm deep, the
indicating patterns are 12mm wide. There are 6 indicating patterns in the same direction
as the tire tread. When 3 or above of them come out from the groove, the tire shall be
changed.
1. Indicator
3. Radial ply tire swing
Swing means the front/rear part of the car swings from side to side, which is resulted from the out-of-straight steel
belt of the tire. Such kind of swing will be obvious when the
speed is at 8~48km/h.
If there is something wrong with the rear wheels, the rear part
of the car will swing. Then the driver at the seat will feel that
there is someone pushing the car from one side.
Swing can be diagnosed by wheel fault diagnosis equipment and can be quickly ascertained by the manufacturer‘s
recommendations.
If there is no wheel fault diagnosis equipment available, only the time-consuming methods can be adopted, that is,
substitution with good tire/wheel assembly.
2) Fit the good tire or wheel (of the same type of cars) to the car. If the swinging part is still impossible to ascertain,
substitute the rear tires.
3) Make a road test again. If it gets better, then fit on an old tire till the swinging tire is found. If it still does not get
better, replace the 4 old tires with the new ones. Then fit on one old tire by the same method as mentioned above to
make check one by one.
―Deviation‖ means that the car deviates from a straight course on a level road even the steering wheel is not turned.
Generally, the causes for deviation are:
·Tire structure
The way the tires are made may cause the care to deviate. This example involves the tire of belt. Belt eccentricity
will produce a lateral force in the car to swing in on straight roads. If the diameter of the tire is larger at one side
than the other side, the tire is liable to swing to one side, which will increase the lateral force of car deviation.
The procedures in the following diagram shall be adopted (deviation fault diagnosis flow chart) to ensure the front
wheels are correctly aligned and avoid tire deviation.
1) The deviation diagnosis procedure is different from the correction tire rotation diagram commonly shown in the
user‘s manual and maintenance guide.
2) The rear tires will not cause deviation.
Interchanged
The tires shall
the be
tires
interchanged
from the leftfrom
to the
theright
left before
to the
right before
another roadanother
test. road test.
Deviate in the same direction. Change the tire if the interchange Deviate in the reverse direction.
of tires improves the deviation
Re-install the tire and check Fit a good tire on the front wheel
tis alignment.
Change the tires if the deviation If the deviation still exists, fit a
is improved. good tire to the other front wheel
Change the tires if the deviation If the deviation still exists, the
is improved. good tire is not a qualified
product.
·Tire runout.
·Wheel runout
Measuring the runout of tires and wheels can only reveal partial problems, so the tire problem detector (TPD) must
be used to check these three causes, for example, loading runout. If there is no tire problem detector available, the
only way is to replace with new tire assembly, which is time-consuming.
Suspension action (loading runout)
Flat road
Causes
Ⅰ. Composition
Wheel side camber: 1°30′±30′, left and right difference ≤30′ 3. Wheel central perpendicular
Notice:
The front wheel toe-in value is measured by front wheel toe-in gauge.
The front wheel alignment shall refer to the angular dependence between the front wheels, and between front wheel
suspension accessories and the ground. Generally, the adjustment to front wheel alignment is only made to the
wheel toe-in, not to the camber and kingpin inclination. Thus the camber and kingpins inclination have no technical
requirements for adjustment to the damage caused by hazardous road condition or collision. Accordingly, it shall be
sure whether the damage exists at the car body or suspension. If the car body is damaged, the car body shall be
repaired, and if the suspension is damaged, the suspension shall be repaired. After repair and change, the front
wheel alignment shall be also checked or rectified.
Wheel toe-in is a type of wheel constraint which is used to avoid the motion trend of wheels at both sides rolling
outwards due to wheel toe-out from causing the centerlines of the wheels at both sides to be not parallel. (As shown
in the figure above) The technical requirement of wheel toe-in is to ensure the front wheels parallel motion (excess
toe-in or toe-out may increase tire wear). The value of wheel toe-in can be obtained from ―B‖ minus ―A‖, with the
units as mm.
2. Wheel camber
The camber is the inclination between the front wheel and the perpendicular (seen from the front of the car). If the
wheels incline outwards at the top, the inclination is positive, or is negative. The size of inclination is calculated by
degree.
Not all the steering and vibration faults result from the tire misalignment. Wear or unqualified tires are also
impossible to give rise to lateral deviation, so that it is a must to add inspection items. ―Lead‖ is that the car
deviates from the straight course when there is no manual force excised on the steering wheel. Before any work that
may have impact on the adjustment of front wheel alignment, the following check and service shall be made to
ensure the alignment sample value and alignment adjustment methods are correct.
2) Check if the ball head connections are loose. Check the tie rod end: if it gets loosened, rectify it before
adjustment.
4) Check the car‘s balance height: if it exceeds the limit, rectify it. This job must be well done before adjusting the
toe-in.
7) Additional load must be taken into consideration, for example tool kit. If such sort of additional load is always
carried in the car, leave it in the car when the alignment check is made.
8) Consideration shall be made to make sure whether the equipment used for check is in good condition, and they
shall be operated based on the manufacturer‘s manual.
9) To do setting work, the car shall be laterally on a level surface from the front to the rear.
4. Toe-in adjustment
Adjust the toe-in by changing the steering tie rod length. First, unscrew the clamp nuts at the ends of the right and
left steering tie rods, and then turn the tie rod to the right and left (same torque). In adjusting, the length of the left
and right tie rods shall be equal (see figure ―A‖). Before turning the steering tie rods, apply grease between the
steering tie rod and rack housing to avoid the boot being distorted.
Tightening torque
(a)40~72 N·m
If the camber and kingpin caster fail to meet the technical requirement, the reasons shall be first ascertained. If it is
due to damage, looseness, bending, dents or suspension part wear, change them; if it is due to the care itself, repair
it to meet the technical requirements. To avoid error in the measured value of camber and kingpin caster, move the
front part of the car up and down several times before the check.
6. Steering angle
In changing the steering tie rod or the steering tie rod end, Check the wheel toe-in first, and then use a steering
radius analyzer to examine the steering angle. If the steering angle is not correct, check if the length ―A‖ of the left
and right steering tie rods is equal.
Notice:
If the length of steering tie rods is changed to adjust the steering angle, the wheel toe-in shall be re-checked.
1. Steering radius analyzer
2. Steering tie rod
Inside of steering angle: 38±3° 3. Steering tie rod end
4. Steering tie rod end nut
Outside:34±4°
Reference data:
Wheel sideslip:
Test the front sideslip by a wheel sideslip tester
Wheel sideslip range:0~5m/Km
If the wheel sideslip exceed the range, the wheel toe-in of the front wheel alignment may be not correct.
Tightening torque
Fastener
N·m
All steering gear fasteners may have impacts on important fastening parts of key performance. If it is
necessary to change parts, they shall be of the same piece number or the equivalent. Do not use the substitute
parts of inferior quality or under the design requirement. Reassembly of them must use the specified torque
to ensure that the parts can be well fixed.
Ⅰ. Composition
The rack and pinion steering system consists of two major parts: rack and pinion. In turning the steering wheel, the
power is transferred to the steering shaft, universal joint and then to the pinions. The pinions mesh with the racks
accordingly so that the power is further transferred to the racks to make motion in a straight line. Finally the power
is transferred to the steering knuckle of the steering wheel through the steering tie rod.
Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis
1. Check on the steering wheel clearance
Check the steering wheel clearance when driving a car forwards in a straight line.
Steering steel clearance “a”: the free travel of steering wheel outer rim is within 0~30mm.
If the steering wheel‘s clearance is beyond the specified technical scope, it shall be check according to the
following procedures. If it is damaged, change it.
• Whether the steering tie rod ball stud is worn (The ball stud, when is exercised on a 2kg·cm torque, shall move).
Ⅲ. In-car maintenance
1. Lubrication
The parts in the steering gear box, after removed, shall be cleaned up before reassembly. The following grease is
recommended.
1. Steering rack
2. Steering tie rod lock washer
3. Steering tie rod
4. Steering tie rod end
5. Boot
6. Steering pinion
7. Steering gear oil seal
8. Pinion bearing oil seal
9. O ring
10. Steering pinion side-entry piece
11. Rack shock pad screw
12. Rack plunger spring
13. Steering rack plunger
14. Steering rack housing and gear box assembly
15. Steering rack side-entry piece
16. Steering tie rod upper end lock nut
17. Rack boot snap ring
18. Wire
2. Steering gear box
Disassembly
2) Remove the steering shaft sealing members from the front panel, and then remove the lower joint of the steering
lower shaft.
5) Use a puller to take apart the steering tie rod end from
the steering knuckle.
1. Steering lower shaft
6) Remove the steering gear box 2. Upper joint bolt
3. Lower joint bolt
4. Steering shaft sealing member
Check every boot to make sure whether they are damaged. Damaged
boots will allow dust and water enter, which may cause steering racks
and pinions to suffer wear, rust, noise, and thus give rise to system
operating troubles.
Even if there is a tiny damage, they shall be replaced with the new one.
A visual inspection shall be made to make sure whether the boot has damage or breakage when regular inspections
are made at specified intervals or the car is jacked up for other reasons.
Check every boot to make sure whether they are damaged. Even if there is
a tiny damage, they shall be replaced with the new one.
Steering shaft joint
Check if the steering shaft joint has wear, breakage and other damage. They shall be changed if there is any sign of
damage.
Tightening torque
(a): 25±3N·m
·Fit the steering lower shaft on the pinion and tighten the lower joint bolts, and then tighten the joint bolts.
Tightening torque
(b): 25±3N·m
·Fit the steering tie rod end to the steering knuckle, and then tighten the steering tie rod end nuts to the specified
torque.
Tightening torque
1. Steering tie rod end
2. Steering knuckle
3. Steering tie rod end nut
4. Steering tie rod end clamp nut
(c): 50±5N·m
Notice:
The clamp nuts removed from the steering tie rod end shall be not reused, and shall be replaced with new ones.
·Tighten the steering tie rod end clamp nuts to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(d): 40~72N·m
Tightening torque
(e): 100±5N·m
·After the assembly, check the wheel alignment and wheel tie-in setting and change them as required. (see ―Front
Wheel Alignment‖ in Section Ⅱ of this chapter.)
Disassembly
1) Remove the steering gear box according to the ―Disassembly‖ methods in the ―Steering Gear Box‖ of the
chapter.
2) To make appropriate adjustment after assembly, a mark shall be made on the steering/tie rod end clamp nut of
the steering tie rod thread.
3) Unscrew the steering tie rod clamp nuts, and disconnect the steering tie rod end from the tie rod end clamp nuts.
1. Clamp nut
2. Steering tie rod
3. Steering tie rod end
4. Marking place
1. Clamp; 2. Clip
6) Remove the steering tie rod lock washer bending members, and then remove the steering tie rod from the rack.
1. Lock washer
2. Steering tie rod
3. Steering rack
(A):09944—26011
10) Tap the place as shown in the right figure with a plastic hammer so as to pull out the pinion assembly from the
case.
12) Remove the rack from the gear box. The direction shown in the figure
is the direction in which the rack is removed.
Caution:
The interior of the steering gear sleeve is treated with special coating.
As it is a wearing part, please be careful not to damage it when
remove the racks from the steering gear box.
1. Pinion assembly
13) Remove the oil seal with a special tool. 2. Plastic hammer
Special tool:
(B): 09913-50121
Check
Rack plunger
Steering pinion
Steering rack
Check if the rack has straightness deviation, wear or damage, and check
if the back is worn or damaged.
Rack deviation range: 0.1 mm
Caution:
Reassembly
The reassembly shall be made in the reverse order of the disassembly, 1. Pinion bearing plunger.
with attention paid to the following aspects:
1) Use a special tool to fit the pinion bearing oil seal to the pinion bearing plunger.
Special tool
(A): 09925-98210
3) Apply grease to the central tooth surface of the rack and around it.
1. Rack
Grease: (99000-25050) (Suzuki super grease E) 2. Steering gear box
4) Slip the rack into the steering gear box in the direction as shown in the figure.
Caution:
The interior of the steering gear sleeve is treated with special coating. As it is a wearing part, please be
careful not to damage it when fit the rack into the
steering gear box.
5) Apply grease around the pinion teeth, and to the 1. Gear box oil seal
pinion bearing and gear box oil seal lip. 2. Pinion tooth
3. Fill the pinion bearing
“A”: grease (SUZUKI SUPER GREASE sleeve interior with
grease
E(99000-25050)) 4. O ring
5. Pinion bearing plug
6) Apply fastening adhesive to the pinion bearing plug 6. Pinion bearing
thread.
7) Install the pinion assembly and tighten the pinion bearing plug to the specified torque.
(B): 09944-20011
8) Apply a little lubricating oil to the plunger sliding part close to the rack.
9) Fit on the parts as shown in the figure.
10) Apply sealant around the thread of the rack shock pad screws, and tighten
them to the specified torque.
Special tool
(C): 09944-18211
13) As shown in the figure, fit the new steering tie rod lock washer and steering tie rod to the rack, with the ―D‖
part of the washer aligned with ―E‖ of the rack platform.
14) Tighten the tie rod interior ball nut to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
16) Make sure the rack side is mounted in place as shown in the figure before a boot is fitted on the steering rack
case.
“a”: 0.5~1.3mm
17) Apply grease to the parts at the side ―F‖ of the boot steering tie rod.
Caution:
Do not apply grease to the parts at the side “G” that contact the boot steering gear box.
18) Fit the boot correctly into the groove of the gear box and steering tie rod, and fasten it with new wires or
clamps.
The wire shall be new and wound twice. Both of its ends shall be twisted together and the twisted ends shall bend
to the twisting direction. Then check to make sure the boot has not twisting and bending.
19) Fit the steering tie rod clamp nuts and steering tie rod end to the steering tie rod, and fit the clamp nuts on the
marks made in disassembly.
1. Mark
Notice:
The length “b” of the original steering tie rod shall measure as a basis for changing for new steering tie rod
when the steering tie rod is changed so as to set the clamp nuts appropriately.
Ⅳ. Servicing materials
Recommended Suzuki
Materials Use
product
Ⅴ. Special tools
Oil seal puller Bearing installer Pinion torque testing Pinion bearing plug
bushing bushing (43mm)
Ⅰ. Composition
This set of tube type steering column has the following three important characteristics apart from the steering
function.
·The steering column adopts an energy-absorbing design so that it can alleviate the front impact.
·As the steering column is furnished with a security lock, it can lock the ignition and steering wheel to prevent the
car being stolen.
To ensure the function of energy absorbing, the key parts employ specified screws, bolts and nuts as required by the
design, and they all shall be tightened to the specified torque.
Be careful in removing the steering column assembly from the car. It is necessary to use the removers
recommended in the manual and they shall not lean against the assembly. Do not impose violent impact on the
steering shaft end, and do not let the assembly fall down, or it will cut off the shear lockpin that maintain the length
of the steering column.
1. Steering wheel
2. Multi-function switch
3. Steering column upper cap
4. Steering column lower cap
5. Steering column assembly
6. Steering lower shaft
Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis
See Section Ⅰ for the fault diagnosis of steering wheel and steering column
In case of accident, it is bound to make check, test and repair based on ―Check on Fault and Damage of Steering
Column‖ in this chapter.
Ⅲ. In-car maintenance
1. Steering wheel
Special tool
(A): 09944-36011
Caution:
Do not knock the shaft end. If so, the shear lockpin that maintain
the length of the steering column will get loosened, and the 1. Steering wheel
particular shock-absorbing capacity of the steering column will be 2. Multi-function switch
3. Steering column cap
damaged as well. 4. Steering column
5. Steering lower shaft
1. Alignment mark
Installation
1) Fit the steering wheel to the steering column, with the marks aligned.
Caution::
The steering column, once removed from the car, will be liable to be damaged. If the steering column
assembly sides off, its end will crack up the steering column or loosen the plastic shear lockpin that maintain
the length of the steering column. Inclining against the assemble may cause it to be bent or deformed. Any
damage of the above will affect the shock-absorbing capacity of the steering column.
The steering column mounting bolts shall not be loose, and the steering lower shaft bolts shall be tightened
up, or the bearing of steering shaft joint will be damaged.
Notice:
In maintaining the steering column or other parts fitted on the steering column, the steering wheel shall be
first removed. But if the parts to be repaired can be touched only by unscrewing the steering column, the
steering wheel shall be stay on the steering column.
Disassembly
1) Turn the steering wheel to let the front wheels straight ahead.
3) If necessary, remove the steering wheel. See the section ―Steering Wheel‖ in this chapter.
5) Remove the plug connectors of the multi-function switch and ignition switch wiring harness
8) Unscrew the steering column mounting bolts and remove the steering column.
10) Unscrew the steering lower shaft‘s lower joint bolts and remove the steering shaft lower joints if necessary.
1) Make sure that the front wheels and steering wheel are traveling in a straight line. Insert the lower joints into the
steering pinion shaft.
2) Tighten the lower joint bolts of the steering lower shaft to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(a): 25±3N·m
3) Apply lubricating oil to the steering shaft seal ―A‖, and then fit the steering shaft seal to the front panel, as
shown in the figure.
4)Align the flat part ―B‖ of the steering lower shaft with the steering column joint bolt hole ―C‖, as shown in the
figure, and then insert the steering lower shaft into the steering column joint.
Tightening torque
(b): 25±3N·m
Tightening torque
8) Connect the wire harness of the ignition switch and multi-function switch to the plug connector.
9) If necessary, fit on the top and bottom covers of the steering column.
10) If necessary, fit on the steering wheel. See the section
―Steering Wheel‖ in this chapter.
Disassembly
Notice:
1) Align the rectangular holes of steering shaft with the center of steering column inner holes.
2) Rotate the ignition key to ―ACC‖ or ―On‖, and fit the steering wheel security lock assembly to the steering
column.
3) Rotate the ignition key further to ―LOCK‖ position, and pull it out.
4) Align the lock sleeve with the rectangular holes of the steering shaft, and then turn the shaft to lock the steering
shaft.
5) Tighten the two new bolts till their heads fall off, as shown in the
right figure.
7) Fit on the steering column. See the section ―Multi-function switch, steering column and steering lower shaft‖ in
this chapter.
Notice:
In case of car accident, the car body may be damaged; once the
1. Packaging clip
steering column is impacted, it will be damaged or misaligned.
Check order
1) Check if the two packaging clips are fixed on the steering column support.
Check the clearance between the packaging clip and the steering column support, as shown in the figure. Check if
the clearance ―a‖ at both sides has cracks, looseness. If there is damage,
change it.
3) Check if the steering shaft joints and shaft are damaged, for example cracks, rupture, malfunction or large
clearance, and etc.
4) Check if the steering shaft can rotate smoothly. If there is damage, change the steering column assembly.
Ⅳ. Servicing materials
Ⅴ. Special tool
When the brake pedal is pressed down, the master cylinder will produce a hydraulic pressure inside, which impels
the wheel braking cylinder pistons (two at front and rear respectively) to act.
The master cylinder is a series dual-chamber master cylinder, with the brake pipe connected with the master
cylinder. It has two independent circuits, one connecting the front brake (left and right), and the other connecting
the rear brake (left and right).
The brake proportioning valve (BP valve) or load sensing proportioning valve is located in the circuits between the
master cylinder and the rear wheel. In the braking system of this sort, the disc brake is used for the front wheel
braking, and the drum brake is used for the rear wheel braking. The parking braking system, which is mechanical,
exercise braking force on rear wheels alone by cable and mechanical link.
The parking brake and service brake use the same brake shoe.
Direction
of advance
Ⅰ. Booster assembly
The booster sits between the master cylinder and the brake pedal. The advantage of such design is that the engine
vacuum negative pressure can be made use of to increase mechanical braking force as the brake pedal is pressed
down.
Caution:
When and after the booster is removed, never let it fall off or deform ever.
Warning:
Never take apart the brake booster assembly. If it is found to have fault, replace with a new booster
assembly.
Caution:
Tighten the fasteners not lubricated to the specified torque. The brake fluid shall be discharged first when
any hydraulic element is removed or the brake pipe is disconnected.
Operating principle
When the brake pedal is pressed down, the brake force is transferred to the master cylinder piston through the valve
lever, booster air valve, reaction disc and piston rod. Meanwhile, the pressure difference between the piston
chambers ―A‖ and ―B‖ (see the figure below) acts on the booster piston to generate boosts. Therefore, a little force
on the brake pedal will form a strong thrust to the master cylinder rod, and thus produce a high hydraulic pressure.
Any part relating to the vacuum in the booster once breaks down, the brake force will not increase any more.
However, the brake force generated from pressing down the brake pedal can be still transferred to the valve lever,
booster air valve, valve stop pin and booster piston, and thus impelling the master cylinder rod. Accordingly, the
booster itself will not encounter failure.
A: Brake pedal
B: Master cylinder
1. Booster 1
2. Booster 2
3. Valve lever
4. Air filter element
5. Air filter separator
6. Air valve return spring
7. Air valve return spring
8. Control valve spring space
9. Control valve spring
10. Booster control valve
11. Booster air valve
12. Booster piston
13. Valve stop
14. Booster diaphragm
15. Reaction disc
16. Booster piston return spring
17. Booster piston rod
Ⅱ. Master cylinder assembly 18. Booster rod adjusting screw
The master cylinder has two pistons and three piston cups. The hydraulic pressure is generated in the first piston
chamber (―a‖ in the figure below) and the second piston chamber (―b‖). The hydraulic pressure generated in the
first piston chamber (―a‖) acts on the rear wheel brake (front wheel brake for the cars equipped with anti-lock
braking system). Similarly, the hydraulic pressure generated in the second piston chamber (―b‖) acts on the front
wheel brake (rear wheel brake for the cars equipped with anti-lock braking system).
Notice:
To repair the master cylinder, the original spare parts in the service kit shall be used. New rubber articles
lubricated with clean brake fluid shall be employed to make the assembly easy. The compressed air with oil
shall be not used to blow the braking components, for it will damage the rubber articles. If it is necessary to
remove the hydraulic components or disconnect the brake pipe, the brake fluid shall be discharged first. The
dry fasteners that have no lubrication shall be tightened to the specified torque.
1. Piston stop snap ring
2. Piston stop
3. Cylinder head
4. Plate
5. The first piston
6. Piston cup
7. Piston 1 return spring
8. Piston 1 spring space
9. Piston 2 pressure cup
10. Piston 2
11. Return spring seat
12. Piston 2 return spring
13. Piston 2 stop bolt
14. Master cylinder block
―A‖ piston 1
Ⅲ. Load sensing proportioning valve ―B‖ piston 2
As shown in the figure below, the load sensing proportioning valve (LSPV) is located in the brake circuit
connecting the master cylinder and the rear wheel brake. It can control the hydraulic pressure supplied to the rear
wheel brake according to the load on the car (or load weight) to prevent the rear wheel locking too early, and it can
release the high hydraulic pressure supplied to the rear wheel brake as well. If there are troubles in the front wheel
brake hydraulic circuit, the hydraulic pressure generated in the master cylinder will be directly supplied to the rear
wheel brake to carry out rear wheel brake control.
Caution:
Never take apart the load sensing proportioning valve, or the original functions will be impaired. If it has
failures, replace it with a new one.
The sensor part is mainly composed of lever and spring. The spring can, when impacted by load, sense the car‘s
changes in height, and can convert the changes into load signals.
The hydraulic pressure control part is mainly composed of plunger and valve system that exercises proportioning
control.
The fail-safe part is mainly composed of piston chamber and fail-safe piston. The piston chamber sucks hydraulic
pressure through the front wheel brake. The fail-safe piston will release valve system pressure when the front wheel
braking system brakes down. This system is connected with the rear wheel brake.
1. Plunger
2. LSPV lever
3. Sensor spring
4. From the master cylinder
Piston chamber 1
Front wheel brake
5. To the rear wheel brake
6. From the master cylinder
Piston chamber 2
Rear wheel brake
7. Bleeder plug
The disc brake caliper has only one single piston cylinder. The hydraulic pressure generated by applying force to
the brake pedal is transferred through the caliper to the shoes to produce friction. The hydraulic pressure acts
evenly on the piston and caliper cylinder bottom to move the piston outwards, and the caliper inwards (slide) to
clamp the brake disc. The clamping action forces the brake pad (friction facing) to exercise a pressure on the brake
disc to produce friction, and thus to stop the car.
Notice:
Components shall be lubricated as stipulated. Do not use compressed air with oil to blow the brake parts, for it will
damage the rubber elements. The brake fluid shall be first discharged when it is necessary to remove the parts or
the pipes. The dry fasteners that need no lubrication shall be tightened to the specified torque.
1. Brake caliper spacer
2. Boot
3. Caliper
4. Disc brake piston
5. Piston seal
6. Cylinder bushing
7. Brake pad
8. Bleeder plug
9. Bleeder plug lid
10. Block (gasket)
11. Boot retaining ring
Notice:
To repair this type of drum brake, the whole set of parts in the service kit shall be used. The parts shall be
lubricated as required.
Warning:
The brake fluid shall be discharged first when any hydraulic element is removed or the brake pipe is
disconnected. The dry fasteners that need no lubricating shall be tightened to the specified torque.
When the brake pedal is press down, the piston impels the brake shoes to move towards the brake drum. When the
pedal effort increases, the brake shoes continue moving close to the brake drum. When the brake shoes press the
brake drum, the brake force is produced.
The migration length of tie rod arm is consistent with the wear. As the tie rod arm moves, the sector ratchet moves,
too, for they are assembled together. Until the clearance between the brake shoes and the brake drum is larger than
the migration length, the tie rod arm and ratchet are moved in place and stay where they are.
In this way, the clearance between the brake shoes and brake drum will be automatically adjusted to be consistent at
every time when the brake pedal is pressed.。
1. Brake bottom plate
2. Brake shoe
3. Parking brake rod
4. Brake anchor plate
5. Segmented spring
The parking braking system must ensure that the car can park where it is and will never slide in any case.
Give a check to the brake fluid level of the master cylinder. If the level of fluid reservoir drops a little, it is caused
by normal pad wear. If there is abnormal drop in the fluid level, it means that the system has a leakage. Even if the
leakage sign is slight, the damaged part shall be repaired or changed timely.
Unsuitable brake fluid and content of mineral oil or water in the brake fluid will cause the brake fluid to boil to
form bubbles or the rubber elements in the hydraulic system to be damaged.
If the first piston cup swells, it means the rubber element is damaged, which will also cause the wheel brake pump
piston cup of the drum brake to swell.
If the rubber elements are damaged, all hydraulic elements shall be removed and cleaned with ethanol (for instance
alcohol). Before assembly, these elements shall be blown dry by compressed air so as to leave no ethanol in the
system. All rubber elements are changed in the system, including hoses. When the braking device is working, a
check shall be given to the friction facing to make sure whether it has brake fluid. If there is excess brake fluid
found, the brake pad shall be changed.
If the piston seal ring of the master cylinder has no problem, check if there is leakage or overheat. If there is no
leakage or overheat found, discharge the brake fluid, and clean it with the brake fluid, and finally refill the brake
fluid and exhaust the air in the system.
If you have a doubt about the grade of the brake fluid used for the system, or a polluted brake fluid is used, the
system must be rinsed with a brake fluid that meets requirements.
Another check shall be made to make sure whether the car pulls to one side when the brake is not applied. If yes,
check the tire pressure and make sure whether the front wheel alignment is proper and whether the front suspension
connecting pieces are loose. See the fault diagnosis table for other reasons.
﹒All the fasteners of the brake connecting pieces are of great importance, for they will affect the
performance of major parts and systems and increase the maintenance cost. If they are necessary to change,
they shall not be replaced by inferior product or substitute. When they are reassembled, all the parts shall be
tightened to the specified torque instead of welding, which may cause the metal to be extensively damaged or
softened.
·The brake pipe leaks oil. Ascertain where oil leaks and repair it
Noise (there is
squeak when the
·The front brake friction facing is worn. Change the friction facing
brake is not
applied)
·The brake oil pipe hose is clogged that Repair the master cylinder
the flow diminishes.
Check if the hose is softened and if the oil
pipe is damaged; replace with the new
hose and new double wall brake steel tube
Brake return is
hindered (when ·The parking brake of the rear brake is
the pedal is improperly adjusted. Check and adjust according to technical
released, the brake requirements
·The return spring in the brake cannot
cannot return
return or is damaged. Change
timely)
·The parking brake cable or rod reacts Repair or change
slowly.
Repair if necessary
·The wheel brake pump or caliper piston
is jammed. Change the piston seal
·The steering knuckle or rear wheel axle Change the steering knuckle and rear
is deformed. wheel axle
Pedal pulsation ·The radial runout of brake disc is too Follow the instructions to make checks.
(the pedal pulsates great. Change or fit brake disc if it fails to meet
when pressed the technical requirements.
down) ·The parallelism fails to comply with the
technical requirement. follow the instructions to make checks.
Change or fit brake disc if it fails to meet
the technical requirements.
·The rear brake drum is out of out of
Check the radial runout, and repair or
circularity.
change the brake drum if necessary.
·The bottom plate or mounting bolt gets change or tighten the fixed bolts
loose.
The brake
warning light is ·The brake pipe leaks fluid. Check the leaking position and repair it,
on when the brake ·The brake fluid is inadequate. and then refill brake fluid
is applied.
The brake
warning light
·The brake warning light circuit is out of
cannot be on Change the bulb or repair the circuit
order.
when parking
brake is applied.
Section Ⅲ Check and adjustment
Check the brake pedal free height ―a‖. if the free height fails to meet
the technical requirements, check and adjust it according to its 1) and
2).
1) Check the distance from the booster mounting surface to the U pin
hole center. In reassembling the tie rod U pin, pay attention to
adjusting the distance.
Length
“b”: 99.5~100.5mm
Tightening torque
2) Check the position of the stop light switch. If it fails to comply with the technical requirements, please adjust it.
Clearance
“a”: 1.5~2.0mm
Tightening torque
(a): 7.5N·m
1) Starting engine
3) Press down the brake pedal with a force no more than 400N to measure
the clearance ―a‖ between the brake pedal and the front panel inner wall.
Clearance
4) If the clearance ―a‖ is less than the specified size, it may be caused by rear
brake shoe wear or existence of air in the pipe.
If the clearance ―a‖ is always less than the specified size, and remains so even if the brake shoe is replaced and the
system is exhausted, it may be such case that the rear brake shoe adjuster breaks down or the booster rod length is
improperly adjusted. But this possibility is somehow little.
In checking the adjuster, the brake drum shall be removed (refer to brake drum check). If it is damaged, repair or
change it.
As for the check points and check method of the front brake disc, see ―Check on Brake Pad‖ in this chapter.
Whenever the tire is removed (tire rotation or other reasons), the brake lining shall be periodically checked
according to the maintenance schedule. Check the lining thickness inside and outside the brake pad through the
caliper end (or hole).
If the lining is worn, the thickness (―d‖ in the figure‖ will be less than specified value, all the brake pads shall be
change.
Thickness “d”
The check on this item shall follow the check on brake pedal travel. Even if the pedal travel is normal, the check
shall be made according to the following requirements.
3) Observe the brake shoe lining‘s thickness visually through the bottom plate holes. If the lining thickness ―e‖ is
less than the limit size, change all the brake shoes at the same time.
1. Rubber stopper
2. Brake lining
3. Brake shoe backing ring
6. Check on brake pedal clearance
The pedal clearance shall be within the following technical range, or a check shall be given to the stop light switch
to make sure whether its mounting position is suitable. If necessary, adjust it. Checks shall also be made to pedal
shaft bolts and the tightness of master cylinder pins. They shall, if damaged, be changed.
Check if the master cylinder casting has cracks or whether there is brake
fluid around the master cylinder. If there is a little liquid drops, it means
there is a leakage. Moisture regain is also abnormal.
The rear brake is equipped with an auto mechanical adjusting device. But
after the brake shoes have been changed or the brake drum has been removed to make other maintenance, it is
necessary to adjust the clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe. When all the parts are assembled, the
adjustment shall be carried out by pressing the pedal 3-5 times with a force of about 400N after the engine is
started.
Then check if the brake drum is jammed and whether the braking system has
good performance. And finally let down the car to conduct brake tests.
Check
Hold the parking brake lever and pull it up with a force of 25kg. Pull up the
parking brake lever as required above (see the figure), and count the number
of teeth of the ratchet at ―A‖.
It is still necessary to check if the left and right rear wheels are locked.
Another method of counting the number of teeth is to pull up the parking
brake instead of pressing the button on the lever to listen to the click of
the ratchet.
Notice:
·Press the brake pedal several times with a force of about 400N.
·Pull up the parking brake lever several times with a force about 25kg.
·The wear of the rear brake shoe shall not go beyond the limit.
Provided the five conditions above are met, adjust the parking brake lever travel by unscrewing or screwing the
parking brake nuts (right figure).
Tightening torque
(a): 20N·m
(b): 11N·m
Notice:
Pull up the parking brake lever with a force of 20kg; it has 4~7 teeth.
It is recommended that the whole hydraulic system shall be thoroughly rinsed with clean brake fluid when new
elements are installed in it.
Caution:
The brake fluid is very harmful to the paint, so that it shall be wiped up immediately when the brake fluid
accidentally touches the lacquered surface.
As soon as the air enters the hydraulic system, it shall be exhausted from the brake fluid.
The hydraulic tube of the braking system is composed of two independent pipelines, one connected to the front
wheel brake, and the other one connected to the rear wheel brake. When one brake tube or hose is removed from
the wheel, a discharge must be given to the two ends of the removed pipeline or hose. When a joint element
between the master cylinder and the brakes (wheels) is removed, the hydraulic system must give a discharge to the
left and right brake calipers, left and right wheel cylinders of the rear wheel and LSPV (if equipped).
1. Plunger
1. Master cylinder 4. LSPV 2.Vinyl resins
2. 4-way connector 1 5. Front wheel brake 3. Vessel
3. 4-way connector 2 6. Rear wheel brake
1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. The reservoir
shall have at least half of the brake fluid when the air is exhausted.
Insert the vinyl resins into the drain plug, with the other end into the Press the brake pedal several times
vessel. Unscrew the drain plug when it pressed
3) Press the brake pedal several times, and then unscrew the drain
plug about 1/3 turn to 1/2 turn when it is pressed.
4) When the hydraulic pressure is almost released, screw the drain plug.
5) Repeat the operation till there are no bubbles puffing out from the
hydraulic tube.
Press the brake pedal
6) If there are no bubbles puffing out, press down the brake pedal to screw
Screw the drain plug again
up the drain plug.
Tightening torque
Check if the brake hose assembly has damage, cracks and external wear or leakage. If necessary, make the thorough
check with the help of light and minor. If there is faults as mentioned above,
change the brake hose.
Check if the oil pipe has damage, cracks, bending and corrosion. If has,
change it.
The car must use the brake fluid marked on the reservoir or recommend in
the manual.
The brake fluid level shall be between the minimum level and the maximum level
marked in the reservoir. When the warning light turns on, fill brake fluid to the
maximum level.
When the brake fluid declines rapidly, a check shall be made to make sure whether the
system has a leakage. If there is, repair it and refill the brake fluid to the specified
level.
1. Maximum level
Caution: 2. Minimum level
Do not use shock absorber fluid or other fluid with mineral oil; do not use damp
vessels or the vessels that have held mineral oil. Mineral oil will cause the rubber elements in the hydraulic
braking system to swell or deform. Moisture in the brake fluid will lower the boiling point of the brake fluid.
All the brake fluid vessels shall be covered to prevent from pollution.
The methods of check on booster‘s service are divided into two classes: use of testing equipment and no use of
testing equipment. If no testing equipment is made use of, it can only check the booster‘s service approximately.
Notice:
3) Press the brake pedal continuously several times with the same common braking force and observe the pedal
travel. If the pedal sinks deeply at the first time, and its travel diminishes at the second and third time, it means the
airtight seal is formed.
4) If the pedal travel remains the same, it means the gas seal is not formed.
Notice:
If the check finds out damage in the vacuum tubes and seals, the damaged members shall be changed.
Repeat the test after all operation.
1) When the engine stops, press the brake pedal several times intermittently with the same force to confirm that the
pedal travel does not change.
2) While starting the engine, press the brake pedal with the same force (as the pedal effort mentioned in 1)). If the
pedal travel increases slightly, it means the operation is good, but if the pedal travel has no changes, it means there
is a failure.
1) While the engine is running, press down the brake pedal and then stop the engine, leaving the brake pedal
pressed down.
2) Let the brake pedal keep pressed for 30s. If the pedal height has no changes, it means it is in good condition; if
the pedal rises, it means a failure.
30s
·The car is equipped with spare tire, tools, jack and jack handle.
1) Park the car as shown in the figure, putting the weight slowly
on the center of the rear axle housing to let the rear axle carry a
load of up to 660kg.
Notice:
Front brake
(A): 3509110-01
Rear brake
(A): 3509110-01
Notice:
The thread attachment of the special tool (B) can be substituted by that (10mm diameter) of the special tool
(A). Thus it is possible to remove the attachment from the
special tool (A) to fit to the special tool (B).
8000kPa 4200-5600kPa
Provided the requirements above are met, exercise a 10,000kPa pressure to the front brake and then check if the
rear brake pressure is within the specified range as below.
10000kPa 4800-6200kPa
Special too
(A): 3509140-01
1. Master cylinder
Screw the bolts (special tool)to the master cylinder, as shown in the
figure.
In pressing down the brake pedal, if the pressure to the front wheel brake is 10,000kPa and is 9,500-10,000kPa to the
rear brake, it means the fail-safe system is good in performance.
10000kPa 9500~10000kPa
100kg/cm2 95~100kg/cm2
1422psi 1350~1422psi
6) After the hydraulic test finishes, exhaust the braking system to carry out brake tests.
1) The car shall be jacked up and supported properly to remove the tires and wheels. This is not necessary when the
pipe connecting the master cylinder and the proportioning valves is removed.
2) Dirt and impurities in the hoses and end mounting pieces shall be eliminated so as to remove the brake hose or
pipe.
3) The brake hose shall be assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly. In installing, make sure the steering
wheel is in the proper position and the hose is not twisted. Check to make sure that the hose will not contact any
suspension element in turning left and right. If it does contact them, remove it to rectify. Fill the reservoir with
brake fluid to the specified level, and then exhaust the braking system.
1. Parallel four-way
3. Four-way box
Tightening torque
(a)16N·m
(b)llN·m
(c)10N·m
1) The car shall be jacked up and supported properly to remove the tires and wheels.
2) Dirt and impurities in the hoses and end mounting pieces shall be eliminated so as to remove the brake hose or
pipe.
3) The brake hose shall be assembled in
the reverse order of its disassembly. Fill
the reservoir with brake fluid to the
specified level, and then exhaust the
braking system.
Notice of installation:
·The clip shall be fixed on the proper position as shown in the right figure. Screw up the bolts.
·Make sure the hoses are not twisted when they are installed.
1. Hose
2. E-shaped clip
3. LSPV(load sensing proportioning valve)
4. LSPV bolt
5. Dual pipe clip
6. Tapping screw
7. Wheel cylinder
(right)
8. Wheel cylinder
(left)
10. From the master
cylinder (first)
11. From the master cylinder (second)
12. To wheel brake cylinder
13. Exhaust switch plug
14. Rear axle
15. Upside
16. Front side
17. Left side
Tightening torque
1. Parking brake cable
(a): 16N·m 2. Parking brake lock nut
(b): 8N·m 3. Parking brake adjusting nut
4. Brake parking lever bolt
(c): 23N·m 5. Brake parking lever assembly
6. Center member
(d): 11N·m
3. Brake parking lever
Disassembly
Notice:
Do not remove the brake parking lever switch. The switch assembly shall be removed and fitted on
simultaneously.
Tightening torque
(a): 20 N·m
3) Check if the rear brake is jammed and if the braking system is good in performance.
Disassembly
1) Remove the cable from the brake parking lever (see the brake parking lever disassembly procedures 1)~3) in this
chapter).
2) Remove the brake drum (see the brake drum disassembly procedures 1)~5) in the chapter).
3) Separate the parking brake cable from the brake shoe rod (see the brake shoe disassembly procedure 2)~4) in the
chapter).
4) Remove the brake cable from the brake bottom plate (see the brake bottom plate disassembly procedure 4)).
Notice:
If it is necessary to remove the left/right parking brake cable, repeat the steps 2)~4) for the left/ right wheel.
Assembly
1) Apply waterproof sealant ―A‖ along the cable to the point marked as
shown in the figure and connect the cable with the bottom plate by clips.
Sealant
“A”: 6100997-01
2) Connect the cable and the brake shoe rod, and fit the brake shoe on 1. Brake bottom plate
2. Cable
the brake bottom plate (see the brake shoe assembly procedure 1)~2) in 3. Clip
the chapter).
3) Fit on the brake drum (see the brake drum assembly procedure 1)~2) in the chapter).
4) Connect the cable and the brake parking lever (see the brake lever assembly procedure 1) in the chapter). Then
the brake lever cannot be adjusted.
Notice: the assembly of the left/right wheel parking brake must follow the steps 1)~3) mentioned above.
6) After assembly, adjust the cable (see the check and adjustment of parking brake in the chapter). Then check if the
brake drum is jammed and if the braking system is in good performance.
Put down the car from the lifting equipment to carry out brake test.
5. Brake pad
Disassembly
2) Take apart the E-shaped clip that is used to fix the brake hose and remove the hose from the support.
Notice:
Hoist the removed caliper by a steel wire hook to avoid brake hose being excessively bent, twisted or pulled.
Do not press the brake pedal after the brake pad is removed.
1. Caliper
2. Caliper pin bolt
Check 3. Brake disc
Brake pad
Check if the brake pad lining is worn. If it is excessively worn, replace it with the a new one.
Caution:
Never use abrasive paper to polish the brake pad lining, or the hard particles will penetrate into the lining to
damage the brake disc. When the brake lining needs to be changed, use a new one.
Standard: 15mm
Limit: 7mm
Notice:
Check if the sliding pin can slide smoothly as shown in the figure below.
。If there is damage in it, repair or change it. Apply rubber grease to the outer surface of the sliding pin and caliper
pin bolt. The viscosity of rubber grease is basically not affected at low temperature of -40℃.
Check if the boot and bushing have cracks and damage. If they are
damaged, change them.
Brake disc
Check the scrape on the brake disc surface and worn parts.
But if the scrape on the brake disc surface is too deep or high, the brake
disc shall be changed. If there are scrapes on only one side, it shall be polished and repaired.
Standard: 12.0mm
Limit: 10.0mm
Secure the brake disc against the hub with wheel nuts and then fit on a dial indicator, as shown in the figure. To
measure the deviation of brake disc, take two points from the circumference of the brake disc to measure with a dial
indicator when the brake disc is turned.
Special tools
(A): 3509150-01
(B): 3509160-01
Notice:
Assembly
1) Fit the gasket to the friction block, and then fit on the block clip, and
finally fit the friction block to the caliper bracket.
2) Fit on the caliper and tighten the caliper pin bolts to the specified torque.
Notice:
Tightening torque
(a): 85 N·m
Tightening torque
(a): 85 N.m
1. Clip
2. Pad
3. Brake disc
4. Caliper bracket 1. Caliper pin bolt
6. Caliper assembly
Disassembly
Caution:
Be careful not to twist and knot the hose in unscrewing the bolt.
6) Disconnect the hose from the caliper. Be careful not to twist the hose, as it will cause the brake fluid to flow out
of the hose. Accordingly, there shall be a vessel prepared ahead.
1. Caliper
2. Caliper pin bolt
1. E-shaped ring 3. Brake disc
Disassembly
Clean the caliper all around with brake fluid before disassembly.
1) Remove the piston cover locating ring and boot from the caliper. They shall be pried out by a chip tool. Be
careful not to damage the boot.
2) Inject the compressed air to the cylinder through the bolt holes of the assembly hose, and then the piston can be
pushed out from the cylinder under the action of the compressed air, as shown in the figure on the next page.
Warning:
The pressure of the compressed air shall not be too high, or it will separate the piston from the cylinder. The
compressed air shall be of moderate pressure which can be slowly blown in to pull out the piston. Do not
place your fingers before the piston when the compressed air is applied.
1. Cloth
Caution:
Check
Cylinder boot
Check if the boot has rupture, cracks and damage. If yes, change them
immediately.
Piston sealing
Excessive wear or uneven wear of brake pad lining are possibly the
manifestation of unsmooth piston return. In this case, the rubber seal shall be changed.
Assembly:
The front brake shall be reassembled in the reverse order of the disassembly. In doing so, pay attention to the
following aspects.
Caution:
·Use the same fluid in the master cylinder reservoir to clean up every elements before assembly.
·Apply brake fluid to the piston and piston seals before they are fitted to the cylinder.
Piston seals
The piston seals are used to seal pistons and cylinders, and to adjust the clearance between the friction block and
brake disc as well. They shall be replaced with the new ones in every overhaul. The piston seals shall be fitted into
the cylinder groove and be careful not to distort them.
1) Fit the boot on the piston before it is inserted into the cylinder, as shown in the figure.
2) Fit on the boot, and press the boot into the cylinder groove by hand.
3-Groove side
faces the brake
pad side
1. Boot
2. Piston
3) Insert the piston to the cylinder by hand, and fit the boot into the piston boot groove.
4) To ensure that the boot is properly fitted into the cylinder groove, the piston shall be pulled out a little, not
wholly, from the cylinder.
Notice:
The face B of the boot shall be at the same height as the face A of the cylinder.
Check to make sure the caliper can move smoothly in the insert direction
before it (cylinder block) is fitted to the bracket.
Notice:
The rubber grease shall be used under in the cold condition where the
temperature is as low as -30℃, for the change of its viscosity is very
small, even so at -40℃.
Assembly
2) Apply grease to the caliper pin belts and sliding pins, and then fit the ―A‖ Apply rubber grease
caliper to the bracket.
Notice:
Make sure that the boot is firmly fitted into the groove.
Tightening torque
(a): 85N·m
Tightening torque
(b): 16 N·m
Warning:
Make sure that the hose is not distorted when the joint bolts are tightened up, or they shall be connected
again, in which they shall never be distorted.
8) After assembly, fill the reservoir with brake fluid and exhaust the air in the braking system. After this, carry out
brake tests to check if the mounting members leak oil.
7. Brake disc
Disassembly
2) Unscrew the bracket bolts (2), and remove the caliper assembly.
Caution:
During the disassembly, be careful not to damage the brake hose and press the brake pedal.
Check
1. 8mm bolt
Assembly
Tightening torque
(a): 95 N·m
5) Unscrew the 8mm bolts and pull out the brake drum.
Check if the brake drum is clean. Check if the brake surface is worn by measuring its
inside diameter.
Standard: 220mm
Whenever the brake drum is removed, it shall be thoroughly cleaned, and checked to
make sure whether there are cracks, scrape and deep scratches. It is not safe to
continue using the cracked brake drum, so it shall be changed timely. The cracks in the brake drum shall never be
welded.
Slight scrape has little impact on the smoothness, but too many or severe scrapes will cause excessive wear to the
brake lining. In this case, the brake surface of the brake drum shall be repaired.
If the brake lining has slight wear, and the brake drum has scratches, the brake drum shall be polished with good
emery cloth, not turned.
Brake shoe
If the wear of brake friction facing exceeds the operating limit, it shall
be changed.
Standard: 6.9mm
Operating limit: 3.5mm
If the wear of one brake friction facing reaches the maximum operating limit, all the facings shall be changed.
Caution:
Never use abrasive paper to polish the facing. If so, the hard particles of the abrasive paper will penetrate in
it to damage the brake drum. If necessary, replace it with a new one.
Assembly
Notice of assembly: see the annotation at the beginning of Section Ⅱ in the chapter.
1) Before the brake drum is installed, to ensure a maximum clearance between the brake shoe and the brake drum, a
screwdriver shall be placed between the rod and ratchet to push down the ratchet, as shown in the figure.
Notice:
The right figures indicates that the position at which the ratchet is when the clearance between the brake
shoe and the brake drum is maximum.
2) The brake drum cannot be installed until it is sure that there are no dirt or oil stain on the brake drum inside and
brake shoe.
3) After installation, press down the brake pedal for 3 to 5 times with an load of about 400N to gain a suitable
clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe.
Adjust the parking brake cable (see ―Check and Adjustment of Parking Brake‖ for the adjustment method).
1. Lever
2. Ratchet
1. Lever
2. Ratchet
3. Screwdriver
5) Fit on the wheels, and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(a): 70~100N·m
6) Check to make sure the brake drum is not jammed, and can apply the brake appropriately. Then let down the car
from the lifting jack to carry out parking brake test (service brake and parking
brake).
9. Brake shoe
Disassembly
2) urn the brake shoe clamp pin to remove the shoe clamp spring.
4) Disconnect the parking brake shoe rod from the parking brake cable.
6) Remove the locating ring and disconnect the parking brake rod from the brake shoe rim.
Check
1. Locating ring
Brake strut 2. Parking brake shoe rod
Spring
check if the spring is damage, rusted, or the elasticity gets weak. If year,
change its
Check if the brake shoe rod can smoothly move around the shoe rim. If
damaged, repair or change it.
Assembly
1) As shown in the figure, assemble the elements in the reverse order of the disassembly.
Notice:
2) Install the shoe clamp spring by compressing the spring in place and turning the clamp pin.
3) The procedure hereafter can refer to the brake drum assembly procedures 1)~6).
Disassembly
3) Unscrew the brake pipe joint bolts, and do not let the brake fluid leak.
4) Remove the wheel brake cylinder‘s mounting bolts; disconnect the brake pipe from the wheel brake cylinder and
put the drain plug cover on the brake pipe to avoid overflow of brake fluid.
Notice
Assembly
1) Fit the cylinder seat to the wheel brake cylinder; then remove the drain plug cover from the brake pipe which
shall be correctly connected to the wheel brake cylinder to avoid leakage.
2) Tighten the wheel brake cylinder to the brake bottom plate to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(a): 72 N·m
3) Tighten the brake pipe joint nut to the specified torque, and the brake pipe shall be connected as required by the
step 1).
Tightening torque
(b): 16 N·m
4) Fit the plug cover removed from the brake pipe to the original drain plug.
6) See the brake drum assembly procedures 1) and 2) to fit on the brake drum..
7) Fill the reservoir with brake fluid and exhaust the air in the braking system. (see ―Air Exhaust of Brake‖ for the
exhaust operation.)
8)After installation, press down the brake pedal for 3 to 5 times with a force of about 30kg to gain a suitable
clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe. Adjust the parking brake cable (see ―Check and Adjustment of
Parking Brake‖ for the adjustment method).
10) Fit on the wheels, and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque. (see ―Technical Requirement of Tightening
Torque).
11) Check and make sure that the brake drum is not jammed and has a suitable brake. Then let down the car from
the lifting jack to carry out brake test (service brake and parking brake).
4) Remove the parking brake cable clip and tear down the parking brake cable from the brake bottom plate.
6) Pull out the brake bottom plate and the rear axle. See Section Ⅱ in Chapter Ⅴ.
8) Remove the brake bottom plate from the rear axle shaft.
3) Apply grease to axle shaft oil seal cover as shown in the figure.
4) Apply sealant to the fitting surface of the axle housing with brake bottom plate.
Notice:
Tightening torque
(a): 25N·m
7) Fit on the wheel brake cylinder and tighten the wheel brake cylinder bolts and brake pipe joint nuts to the
specified torque. (see the wheel brake cylinder assembly procedure 1)~4)).
1. Oil seal
2. Axle housing
8) Apply waterproof sealant to the contact of the bottom plate and the
cable. Turn the parking brake cable and secure it with a clip through the
brake bottom plate.
9) Fit on the brake shoe. See the brake shoe assembly procedures 1) and
2).
1O) Fit on the brake drum. See the brake drum assembly procedures 1)
and 2).
1. Brake bottom plate
11) Refill the differential case with new gear oil complying with the 2. Parking brake cable
specified requirements. 3. Clip
12) Fill the reservoir with brake fluid, and exhaust the air in the braking system (see ―Exhaust Operation of
Brake‖).
13) Fit on the wheel and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
14) After installation, press down the brake pedal for 3 to 5 times with a force of about 400N to gain a suitable
clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe. Adjust the parking brake cable (see ―Check and Adjustment of
Parking Brake‖ for the adjustment method).
1. Reservoir cap
2. Reservoir
3. Reservoir hose
4. Reservoir bracket
5. Nut
16) Check and make sure that the brake drum is not jammed and has a suitable brake. Then let down the car from
the lifting jack to carry out brake test (service brake and parking brake).
17) Check all the fitted element to make sure whether they have leakage.
Disassembly
Assembly
1) Fit on the reservoir and tighten the nut to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
5) Carry out the exhaust operation. See brake exhaust and check for leakage.
Disassembly
Caution:
Disassembly
1) unscrew the pin and joint that are used to fix the cylinder block with a special tool.
1. Joint
Special tool
2. Pin
(A): 3509170-01 3. Rubber gasket
Remove the piston locating bolt. Then blow in the compressed air
1. Circlip
2. Master cylinder
through the piston locating bolt hole to remove the #2 piston. Be careful when the #2 piston is removed, for it may
jump out.
Check
Check if the removed part are worn or damaged, and change them if
necessary.
Notice:
Check if the master cylinder block has scratches or corrosion, and change the corroded cylinder. If the cylinder
block is pitted or is too rough, it means the cylinder block has been corroded.
Notice:
Rinse the master cylinder in the clean brake fluid, and then shake off the
brake fluid. Do no use the cloth to wipe the cylinder, for the fluff will
adhere to the master cylinder surface.
Assembly
Caution:
·Do not use any mineral oil in cleaning and assembling the parts, for example coal oil and gasoline.
·Check to make sure that there is not impurities like dust and dirt on the cylinder inner wall, piston and cup
seals. Be careful to use tools to assemble them, or they will be damaged.
·Any parts shall not fall off, and any part that has fallen off shall not be reused.
1)Apply brake fluid to the contact surface of the cylinder inside and the piston assembly, and then insert the #2
piston into the cylinder block.
Make sure the piston cup is fitted to the correct direction so that it
cannot be jammed when inserted into the cylinder.
4) Fit on the piston locating piston and then push the piston in entirely. 1. Locating bolt
5) Apply a thin layer of brake fluid around the two new rubber
gaskets before fitted to the cylinder, and then install the reservoir.
1. Rod
2. Circlip
6) Fit the new pin to the joint hole and screw it into, and at the same time, align the pin end with the spare end
surface of the joint (equal length).
Assembly
Notice: 1. Pin
2. Joint
·See the annotation at the beginning of the chapter. 3. Master cylinder
·Check the clearance between the booster piston rod and the master cylinder piston (See “Check and
Adjustment of Brake Booster ”).
·Use a special tool to adjust the length of the booster piston rod (see “Check and Adjustment of Brake
Booster ”).
1) Fit on the master cylinder as shown in the figure, and tighten the fixing nut
to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(a): 15 N·m
2) Fit on the hydraulic tube, and tighten up the oil pipe joint nut to the specified
torque.
1. Reservoir hose
Tightening torque 2. Clip
3. Joint
(b) 16N·m
Distance
“b”: 4-10mm
4) Fill the reservoir with the brake fluid that complies with the requirements.
5) After assembly, check the brake pedal clearance and exhaust the air in the system (see ―Check on Brake Pedal
Clearance and Brake Exhaust).
6) Carry out the brake test and check if the mounting pieces leak oil.
Disassembly:
1) Disassemble the master cylinder assembly. See the master cylinder disassembly procedures 1)~5).
3) Remove the pedal bracket extension (cars equipped with anti-lock braking system)
4) Remove the nuts of the 4-way joint oil pipe and remove the brake pipe.
5) Disconnect the #1 vacuum hose from the booster, and the #2 vacuum hose from the panel, and then remove the
oil pipe and hose.
8) Unscrew the pedal bracket mounting bolts and nuts from the panel.
11) Unscrew the fixing nuts from the brake booster and remove the brake booster from the pedal bracket.
1. Pedal bracket 4. U clamp pin
2. Brake pedal arm 5. Pin
3. Push rod U clamp 6. Booster nut
Caution:
Do not tear down the brake booster, or its original functions will be damaged. If there is failure in it, replace
it with the new one.
Check the lengthen of the push rod U clamp, whose size ―a‖ shall be is
within 99.5~100.5, as shown in the figure. Tighten the nut to the
specified torque.
Tightening torque
(b): 25 N·m
Notice:
Whenever the booster is removed, make sure that the clearance 1. Push rod U clamp
2. Nut
between the piston rod and the master cylinder piston shall be
correct (see the following procedures for the detailed specification).
Clearance between the booster piston rod and the master cylinder
piston
Apply a negative pressure to the booster and let the engine idle. Then the
clearance ―a‖ between the piston and the piston rod shall turn to be:
·Push the piston rod several times to make sure the reaction disc is in
place before the clearance is measured.
1. Booster piston rod
·Keep a maximum pressure in the booster in measurement. 2. Master cylinder piston
1) Fit the special tool (A) on the master cylinder till the push pin contacts the piston.
Special tool
(A): 3509180-01
2) The special tool shall be inverted on the booster. Adjust the length of the booster piston rod till the rod end touch
the pin cap.
Special tool
(A): 3509180-01
1. Master cylinder
2. Piston
3. Pin cap
Notice:
The booster shall be upright in measurement, with the push rod in the middle and the piston rod fixed by a
screwdriver.
Special tool
(B): 3509180-01
Reference:
In carrying out the adjustment above, apply a negative pressure to the booster and let the engine idle. Then the
clearance ―a‖ between the piston and the piston rod shall turn into:
Notice:
·Use a special tool to adjust the clearance between the booster piston rod and the master cylinder plunger
(see Check and Adjustment).
·Check on the length of the push rod U clamp (see Check and Adjustment)
1) Fit the booster to the pedal bracket, and then connect the booster push rod U clamp with the pedal arm by a U
clamp pin and clip.
Tightening torque
(a): 13N·m
3) Fit the pedal bracket to the front panel, and then tighten the pedal bracket bolts and nuts to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(b): 25 N·m
4) Connect the clutch cable and the clutch pedal arm. See ―Clutch Cable Assembly‖ in Chapter Ⅲ.
5) Connect the #1 vacuum hose to the booster, and then connect the vacuum hose to the #2 vacuum hose.
6) Connect the brake pipe and 4-way joint. The oil pipe nut shall not be tightened too tightly.
8) Fit on the pedal bracket extension (used for the cars with
anti-lock braking system)
10) Fit the master cylinder to the booster (see ―Master Cylinder
Assembly‖ in this chapter).
Tightening torque
(c): 16 N·m
12) Fill the reservoir with the brake fluid that is up to the
specification.
14) After assembly, check the pedal height and clearance. Refer to
―Checks on Excessive Pedal Travel and Brake Pedal Clearance‖.
15) Carry out the brake test to check if the mounting pieces leak
oil.
Disassembly
1) Clean the reservoir cap and eliminate the fluid (brake fluid) by a
syringe.
Caution:
·LSPV assembly nut shall not too loose nor too tight.
·Do not take apart the LSPV assembly. If it is damaged, replace it with a new one.
Assembly
Caution:
2) Tighten the bolt and nut marked in the figure to the specified torque
respectively.
Tightening torque
(a): 23N·m
(c):8.0 N·m
3) after assembly, fill the reservoir with the brake fluid that meet the requirements and then exhaust the air in the
braking system.
Notice:
Make sure that the air is exhausted from the LSPV drain hole without fail.
4) After the exhaust, check if the LSPV is properly fitted. See the ―Check and Adjustment‖ below.
1. Bottom plate
2. Shaft cap
·The car shall be equipped with spare tire, tools, jack and jack handle.
The check and adjustment shall not be carried out until the conditions above are met:
2) Push the LSPV rod up till it cannot move further and then pull out the coil spring to measure the length (―L‖ in
the figure)
3) The spring length ―L‖ shall comply with the following requirements: spring length ―L‖: 205mm.
Tightening torque
(a): 23N·m
Notice:
Check to make sure the LSPV seat and brake pipe joints have no leakage. If there is, change the damaged
parts.
Section Ⅴ Servicing materials, tightening torque and special tools
Ⅰ. Servicing materials
Ⅱ. Tightening torque
Tightening torque
Fastener
N·m Kg ·m 1b·ft
Ⅲ. Special tools
Pin remover Brake circulation plug Oil pipe nut wrench Hydraulic pressure gauge
Booster piston rod adjustor Dial indicator Magnetic stand Hydraulic pressure gauge accessory
Chapter Ⅵ Car body maintenance
1. Front door weld assembly; 2. Front door trim panel; 3. Front door trim panel waterproof membrane; 4. Front
door glass internal weather strip; 5. Front door glass external weather strip; 6. Front door frame sealing strip; 7.
Front door opening stopper; 8. Front door rear channel assembly; 9. Front door glass peripheral strip; 10. Front
door window lifter Assembly; 11. Front door glass clamp strip;12. Front door glass clamp rubber strip;
13.Windown lifter crank;14. Front door hinge; 15. Front door internal handle; 16. Front door external handle; 17.
Front door lock assembly; 18. Front door lock core assembly; 19. Front door lockpin assembly; 20. Front door
check pin; 21. Internal lock-off button; 22. Front door glass; 23. Front door garnish
Disassembly
1) Remove the window lifter crank, which shall be pulled out by a piece of cloth, as shown in the figure.
3) Unscrew the screw and then remove the internal handle assembly from the door trim panel by sliding it
forwards.
5) Unscrew the screw and then remove the plug connectors and door membrane.
1. Cloth strip
2. Crank
9) Unscrew the fixing screw in the front door glass clamp strip
11) Unscrew the fixing screws (6) of the front door window lifter assembly, and then take out the glass lifter from
the hole A.
Check:
Assembly
The front door glass and front door window lifter assembly shall be installed in the reverse order of their
disassembly, ant the following aspects shall be paid attention
to.
·When fitting the glass into the front door glass clamp strip,
dip the clamp strip into the soapy water, and then tap the
glass in lightly with a plastic hammer.
·The window lifter crank shall be such installed that it is 45°when the glass is fully lifted
1. Fixing screw
2. Front door window lifter assembly
1. Front door external handle
2. Front door lock core assembly
3. Front door internal handle
4. Front door lock assembly
5. Front door lockpin assembly
Disassembly of door lock
6. External lock-off button
Disassembly
Assembly
1. Door lock
Notice: 2. Front door external handle
3. Sleeve (holder)
The lockpin shall place horizontally, and 4. Front door lock core assembly
shall move vertically. The door lock shall be
not adjusted.
Close the door to adjust the lockpin so as to make the door surface is flush with the car body, with a height
difference of 0mm.
1. Lock
2. Lockpin boss 1. Car body 3. Lockpin
3. Lockpin 2. Door 4: Front side
To correctly get the position of the lockpin hole, adjust it by increasing or reducing the gasket between the car body
and the lockpin. The size ―b‖ shall be adjusted to the specified value.
Notice:
Disassembly
1. Corrugated pipe
1. Door check 2. Plug connector
2. pin
1. Wooden component
3) Place a board between the jack and door skin to support the
door.
4) Unscrew the hinge mounting bolt and remove the door assembly.
Assembly
·Apply sealant to the hinge mounting surface, as shown in the figure, and apply grease to the revolving part.
·If the sealing step is hardened, there will be serious water leakage. In this case, it shall be replaced with a new
sealing strip.
· Refer to ―Front Door Lock Assembly‖ to adjust the door lockpin position to
put the door in a suitable position.
·Close the door to adjust the front door cushion rubber to contact the door
with the car body.
Section Ⅱ Windscreen
1. Windscreen seal
2. Windscreen side trim strip
3. Windscreen
Windscreen
Use special-purpose glue to fit on the windscreen (that is, use single-component urethane glue with the primer).
Changing the windscreen must use the glue of strong adhesion and shall be done according to the following
methods.
Caution:
·In this chapter, primer Ⅱ and glue Ⅰ(urethane glue used in conjunction with the primer) made by
YOKOHAMA are used to change the windscreen. When primer and glue of other manufacturers are put in
use, the manual they provided shall be followed. Failure to follow the procedures or misuse of other glue will
impair the performance of original glue. Therefore, be careful to read the manual and instruction book
provided by the glue manufacturer before do such work. The whole repair must follow the procedure and
correct method.
·The scratched surface and other damage surfaces shall be painted. The damaged part shall be repaired, or
the corrosion will start here.
If the type of glue mentioned above is used, the bonding strength shall meet the following requirement.
Single-component urethane glue and primer material. Quantity (of installing one windscreen)
Glue (300g)
·Awl
·Steel wire
·Knife
·Rubber cupule
Disassembly
1) Clean the inside and outside and the circumference of the windscreen
4) Cover the car body around the windscreen with tape to avoid damage.
6) Remove the rearview mirror, sun visor, front pillar trimming garnish and then remove the windscreen trim strip
from the front pillar (right/left).
7) Remove (or cut off) all the strips around the windscreen to reveal the glass edge.
8) Use a windscreen knife to cut off the glue around the glass. If it is wiped by steel wire, please follow the steps 9)
and 10).
9) Drill through the glue by an awl and thread the steel wire through it.
1. Awl
10) Cut off the glue around the windscreen with steel wire.
Notice:
The steel wire when used shall be close to the windscreen as much as possible to avoid damage to the car
body.
11) Use a knife to smoothly scrape the glue remained at the car body side, with a penetration depth of 1~2mm.
Notice:
The knife shall, before used, be cleaned in alcohol or alike to get rid of the greasy dirt.
12) When the glass is removed again, the division bar and glue shall be totally removed.
1. Knife
2. Glue 1. Glue
Assembly 3. Car body 2. Primer
1) Use washing liquid (aviation gasoline) to wash the glue remained on the car body (or the windscreen edge) at the
place where the windscreen is glued. (dry it for more than 10
Primer
minutes)
Primer Brush
2) Clean thoroughly the old glue contact surface, painted surface
or exposed metal. Apply the car body primer carefully to the
Old glue
painted surface or exposed metal. Do not apply the premier to the
No primer
glue surface remained on the car body.
Notice:
·Please do follow the instruction book of the primer manufacturer to perform the operation and dry it for
the specified time.
·The primer shall not contact the car body and glass glue surface.
3) Wipe off the glue on the glass with clean cloth; if washing liquid is used, dry it for over 10 minutes.
4) Fit the windscreen trim strip to the front pillar, and then install the fixture block.
Notice:
Notice:
1. Insertion strip 2. Glue 3. Windscreen
·Apply the glue from the bottom of the glass.
·The glue height at the bottom shall be higher than the other three sides: upper side, right side and left side.
·After the glue is applied, use a rubber cupule to grip the glass.
·Finish the steps from 7) to 9) within 10 minutes to ensure the glue of adequate viscosity.
· The treatment method and drying time must follow the glue manufacturer‟s instruction book.
7) Cut off the residual paper from the insertion strip and parting strip.
8) Use a rubber cupule to press the glass into the car body, and tap the glass surface and the insertion strip around it
to fasten the glass.
Notice:
10) Spray water on the windscreen with a hose to check if it leaks. If yes, dry the windscreen and fill the leakage
point with glues. If it still leaks, remove the glass and re-install it again according to the method above.
Notice:
·In drying, do not use the compressed air to directly blow the place dry where glue is applied
1. Rubber cupule
Caution:
·Sudden closing of door before the glue gets dry will cause the glass to get loosened or fall off. Thus, all the
door glass shall be opened before the glue gets dry regardless of whether the doors are closed or opened. Be
careful to perform the operation.
·If the insertion strip cannot be firmly fixed in place, use the tap to fasten it till the glue is fully stuck.
·Every type of glue has its own drying time, so that be sure to refer to the manufacturer‟s instruction book to
be aware of the drying time before apply them. Be sure to follow the notices beforehand.
·The car is not permitted to be driven until the glue become fully cemented so as to ensure firm cementation.
11) Install the rearview mirror, roof insertion strip, front pillar trimming garnish, sun visor, garnish and wiper.
Disassembly
1) Remove the seat rail mounting bolt, and then remove the seat internal and external adjusters and the floor (front
seat) from the seat assembly.
Assembly
The front seal shall be assembled in the reverse order of the disassembly.
Tightening torque
“a”: 55N·m
“b”: 25N·m
“c”: 5 N·m
Section Ⅳ Disassembly and assembly of seat belt
1. Buckle
2. Seat belt
3. Seat belt plug connector
4. Fixing bolt
5. Front seat
6. Retractor assembly
Warning:
If it is necessary to change the seat belt, the buckle and emergency locking retractor (or vehicle-sensitive
emergency locking retractor) shall be changed together. Only this, the buckle can lock the bolt plate firmly.
If only these parts are changed dividedly, the lock conditions will produce unsafe factors. Thus we only
provide complete set of spare buckle and emergency locking retractor (or vehicle-sensitive emergency
locking retractor).
pay attention to the following notices before repair or change the seat belt:
1) The seat belt shall be normally fitted to the belt retractor and buckle.
2) Do no let sharp edges and objects that are possible to damage the seat belt to approach.
4) Do not bleach or dye the seat belt (which can only be washed by neutral soap and warm water).
5) Manually screw the fixing nuts and bolts of the seat belt to avoid sliding when they are fitted.
6) Do not make any repair to the retractor or retractor cap; they shall be replaced with the new one.
10) Do not place any object in the trim panel opening through which the belt passes.
Notice:
The seat belt fixing bolt shall be tightened to the specified torque. The fixing bolts and nuts of the seat belt
are of the uniform fine thread (7/6-20UNF). Never use the bolts of different type or of metric thread in any
case.
Tightening torque
(a): 35N·m
Check
Seat belt and accessories are the vital parts and key system of a car, so they shall be carefully inspected and can
only be replaced with certified products.
1) Seat belt
2) Retractor
The retractor of the front seat belt shall not only pass the inspection above, but also lock the belt when it inclines
about 15°from head to tail or to the left and right.
3) Bolts
4) Buckle
5) Alarm system
Frame size
Unit: mm
Chapter Ⅷ Air conditioning, heating, ventilation system
1. Composition
1. Heater and ventilator
The heater and ventilator of the car consist of control knob (lever), fan motor, heater core and air duct. The fan
motor feeds the air into the car. The heater core keeps circulating the cooling water heated in the motor. Every
control knob (lever) controls the fan motor speed, temperature and exhausts the air (damper in the heating and
ventilation equipment works) so as to convey the air to the where it is needed.
Defroster
Self-circulation of air in vehicle Circulation of the air in vehicle and the fresh air outside the vehicle
Cold Hot
6. Fan motor speed control knob
Low High
Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis
The fan fuse is blown. Change the fuse, and check the short
circuit.
The fan resistor works
abnormally. Check the continuity
The heater still fails to
The fan motor works abnormally. Change the motor
work when switched
on. The circuit and ground are out of Repair if necessary
order.
Change the fan blades or the heater case
Fan blades interfere in the heater
case.
Ⅲ. In-car service
1. Circuit diagram
1. Battery
2. Main fuse
3. Ignition switch
4. Fuse box
5. Fan motor
6. heating resistor
7. Heater switch
2. Heater unit
2) Drain the engine cooling liquid and remove the heater hose on heater unit.
4) Refer to the ―Dashboard‖ in the chapter to remove it, and remove the wire harness clip from the steering support
element, and the remove the support element.
1. Heater unit
2. Nut
3. Heater intake guide
4. Air intake box
1. Heater core
2. Heater case
3. Bracket
4. Gasket
Assembly
1) Assemble the heater unit in the reverse order of its disassembly. Pay attention to the following points:
·Be careful not to jam the cable or wire harness in fitting on the parts.
· Refer to the ―Steering Column‖ in Chapter Ⅴ to install the steering column assembly.
2) Adjust the control cable (see ―Heating and Ventilation Control Cable‖ in the chapter)
3) Fill the engine cooling liquid into the radiator and then exhaust the air in the cooling system.
Disassembly
1) Remove the battery negative wire
2) Remove the fan resistor plug connector
3) Remove the heater fan resistor
Check
Measure the resistance between the terminals
Terminal-terminal Resistance
L-M1 2.8
M1-M2 1
M2-H 0.6
Disassembly
1) Remove the instrument wire harness and took kit.
2) Remove the control cable from the connecting bar.
3) Remove the wire of the plug connectors of the blower resistor switch.
4) Remove the stayed instrument wire harness retainer.
5) Remove the control knob assembly.
Check
Check the continuity between the terminals; if they fail to have continuity, change the control lever assembly.
Assembly
The assembly shall be made in the reverse order of the Ventilation control lever
disassembly.
Adjustment
Wind direction control cable
1) Set the control lever to the ventilation position
2) Turn the knob in the arrow direction to the end and stay there and then fix the cable, as shown in the figure.
2) Turn the knob in the arrow direction to the end and stay there and then fix the cable, as shown in the left figure.
Temperature
control link rod
Fresh air control cable
1) Set the control lever to the position ―circulation of fresh air and air in vehicle‖.
2) Pull the rod to the end in the arrow direction and then fix it as shown in the figure.
Notice:
Prior to making any test or repair, it is necessary to check which refrigerant is used.
In renewing or changing refrigerant and compressor oil and changing parts, be sure that the material and
parts are suitable to the air conditioner under repair. Even if one part is misused, it will cause refrigerant
leakage, part damage and other failures.
Ⅰ. Composition
As an optional equipment, the air conditioner can supply from stock. This part will describe the function of its main
parts as well as relevant content of installation and maintenance.
1. Compressor
2. Magnetic clutch
3. Condenser
4. Reservoir/dryer
5. High- and low-voltage protection switch
6. Expansion valve
7. Evaporator (core)
Refrigerant state
8. Fan motor
9. Overhead evaporator assembly Liquid
10. To front seat Vapor
11. To rear seat Superheated vapor Cold air
2. System parts
1. Condenser assembly
2. Condenser fan
3. Drying bottle
5. Front evaporator
6. Overhead evaporator
7. Compressor
Air Air
conditioner conditi Air
temperature oner Comp condi
sensor fan ressor tioner
relay relay relay
A/C
switch
·Fuel system
Then make sure that the parts art not missed or damaged. When the air conditioner is installed, the wing and seat
must be covered by a cover.
2. Notice on installation
2) The bolts in the tool kit must be used to install the engine‘s air conditioner parts and they shall be tightened to
the specified torque.
3) In installation, the air conditioner pipe and wire harness must be designated with specific lines so as not to
interfere in the surrounding parts.
4) The hose and the pipe must be connected after the flared pipe connecting nut bed is applied with 2-3 drops of
refrigerant oil.
5) The pipe fittings must be tightened or unscrewed by two wrenches so as to let them to be evenly supported in
such tightening or unscrewing.
7) Do not remove the pipe-end plug of the fittings before the parts are connected in place.
Notice:
To let the refrigerant penetrate slowly, it is necessary to remove the plug from the compressor, for the
compressor is allowed to have a little refrigerant in it to avoid seals being corroded when it is delivered.
8) Anyone who begins to treat HFC-134a(R-134a) refrigerant shall wear safety glasses. Be careful not to let the
refrigerant contact with skin.
9) Put the HFC-134a(R-134a) refrigerant tank in the warm water to keep the temperature at 40℃.
3. Method of installation
Refer to the manual attached to the air conditioner parts for the installation of air conditioner.
Vacuation at a time
50S
Vacuation stopping Joint check and repair
8S
Abnormal system
Gas seal check
Vacuation at a time
25S
Refrigerant charging Charging 680k refrigerant
System check
Performance test
2. Refrigerant recovery
The refrigerant can be recovered by recoverer and recycle unit when it is discharged from the air conditioning
system. If it is discharged into the atmosphere, it will cause damage to the environment.
Notice:
The recovery plant and recycle unit shall be treated in accordance with their manuals
Vacuum-pumping system
Notice:
The air conditioning system shall, whenever it is opened (exposed to the atmosphere), be pumped to be
vacuum by a vacuum pump.
3. Vacuum-pumping system
1) Screw off the cover of the high- and low-pressure tube and clasp the filling machine‘s output tube clamp to the
air conditioner‘s high- and low-pressure tube filler
3) If there is no leakage, about 35s later, the equipment will display the vacuum below 760mmHg.
When the vacuum-pumping task is accomplished, the equipment will automatically stop vacuation for 8s to check
if the air conditioning system has leakage.
Notice:
If the equipment‟s displayed valve is largely different from the set value, it means there is a leakage
somewhere. Then check the tube joints and make necessary correction. After this, vacuate the system
again and ensure there is no leakage.
The air conditioning system shall be charged with HfC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant.
Here is a method which employs the refrigerant in the refrigerant maintenance vessel to charge the air conditioning
system.
If the refrigerant recovered by the refrigerant recovery and recycle equipment is used to charge the system (when
the refrigerant is recycled), the procedures given in the manufacturer‘s manual shall be followed.
Warning:
·Do not expose your eyes to the refrigerant (you must wear safety glasses).
·The temperature of any HFC-754a(R-134a) refrigerant leaked due to accident is below the freezing point. If
the HFC-134a(R-734a) refrigerant splashes into your eyes, it will cause serious injury. To protect your eyes
against such accident, it is necessary to wear the protective glasses (safety glasses). If HFC-134a(R-134a)
splashes into your eyes, do not wipe your eyes, and go to see the doctor immediately.
·If the refrigerant does harm to a part of your body, wash it with cold water till the skin temperature returns
to normal to minimize the damage. The go to see a doctor or an expert for proper therapy.
If the HFC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant splashes to your skin, the injured part shall be treated with the same
therapy as that for cold injury.
·Do not treat the refrigerant at the places close to welding or steam cleaning.
·The refrigerant must be kept in a shady place. It must be not placed in high temperature, for example,
being directly exposed to the sun, placed near the fire or in a car ( including trunk).
·Try not to inhale the smoke produced in HFc-134a (R-134a) refrigerant burning, which is harmful to health.
Caution:
·The refrigerant must be filled from the low-pressure side of the air conditioning system.
·The refrigerant must not be filled from the high-pressure side of the air conditioning system.
·When holes are drilled in the refrigerant vessel to fit it a tap, it must be operated carefully in the direction
specified by the manufacturer.
·A pressure gauge must be used before and during the refrigerant is refilled.
·When the refrigerant vessel is thrown away, be sure the refrigerant in it have been drained.
6. Refrigerant charging
1) When the system is vacuated, the equipment will automatically fill refrigerant to the system;
3) When the refrigerant vessel is vacuated, replace it with a new one in accordance with the following procedure.
Use an electronic leak detector to carefully check the leakage of the system.
Warning:
·To avoid explosion and fire, be sure there is no inflammable materials nearby.
·The refrigerant, when exposed to the fire, will turn into poisonous gas (toxic gas). Do not inhale the gas (not
put directly over a flame).
Ⅳ. Fault diagnosis
1)No refrigerant
2) Fuse blowout Recover, vacuate and charge refrigerant; check the fuse
and heating & ventilation
3) Failure in air conditioner and
fan switches Change the air conditioner fuse and check if there is
short circuit.
4) Low idling
Check the air conditioner and fan switches.
5) Failure in air conditioner
thermal resistor Check and adjust air conditioner idle speed.
4) Compressor failure
1) Fuse blowout
Change the fuse and check if there is short circuit.
2)Failure in the condenser fan
relay of air conditioner Check the condenser fan relay
2) Failure in the air conditioner Check the conditioner and fan switch
and fan switch
Repair as required
3) Circuit or ground fault
Check the blower motor
4) Blower motor failure
·Existence of air in air conditioning Change the receiver drier and fill refrigerant
system after vacuation
No or inadequate cold air (air
conditioner works normally) ·Air leak from the overhead Repair if necessary
evaporator or air duct Check the evaporator assembly
·Failure in heater and ventilator Check the heater control lever assembly
Check the heater assembly
·Blower motor failure Pump out the compressor oil from the air
conditioning system and change the
· Existence of excess compressor
compressor
oil in air conditioning system
·Condenser clogged.
Check the condenser
·Inadequate refrigerant
Check the charging of refrigerant
·Existence of air in air conditioning
Producing cold air only at high Change the dryer and then vacuate it
system
speed Fill (refrigerant)
Repair if necessary
·Circuit or line fault
2. Check on driving belt of air conditioner compressor
Make a quick check by the following procedures to check if the refrigerant filled to
the air conditioning system is suitable.
1) Operate the air conditioner for several minutes according to the following setting.
Air conditioner and fan switches: high position
Motor speed: 1100rpm (high idle speed)
Ari vent window: full open ―A‖ excess charging or no refrigerant
―B‖ suitable
2) Check the refrigerant in the air conditioning system through the observation hole
―C‖ inadequate refrigerant
and compare the observed results with the following table.
1. Observation hole
2. Bubble
There are bubbles found in the The system is not adequately Use a leak detector to check if
l
observation hole charged with refrigerant. the system leaks.
When the air conditioner is The system is excessively Discharge the excess refrigerant
5
shut down, the refrigerant in charged with refrigerant. and adjust it to the specified
the observation hole disappear charging level.
immediately and the
observation hole keeps clear.
The air conditioner controller and its circuit can be checked by measuring the voltage of the line connector of the
air conditioner controller.
Voltage check
3) Check the voltage of every terminal of the overhead evaporator line and then turn on the ignition switch.
Notice:
As the voltage of every terminal is affected by the battery voltage, verify whether the voltage is 11V or above
when the ignition switch is turned on.
Ⅴ. In-car maintenance
Notice:
If it is necessary to disconnect or connect the refrigerant pipe to remove or reassemble any part of the air
conditioning system, the following instructions shall be followed.
·When any pipeline is removed from the system, the pipe end plug or end cap shall be immediately fitted to
the assembly parts of these pipelines.
·When the hose and pipe are connected mutually, the connecting nuts and “O” ring seat shall be applied with
several drops of refrigerant oil ahead.
·When the mounting pieces are screwed or unscrewed, two wrenches are needed, one for turning, and the
other for bearing.
·According to the following technical requirements, tighten the connecting nut. The tightening torque of the
connecting nut:
prior to making check to the idle, be sure to following the aspects below:
·Wires, fuel hoses and ignition must be firmly connected with the exhaust control system.
·If the accelerator cable wobbles, it means that it is not tightened.
·Apart from the ignition system, all the electric loading shall be closed.
Notice:
Prior to starting the engine, put the gear shift operating rod in neutral, and then adjust the parking brake
and stop the driving wheel.
If the engine idle value is not within the specified value, refer to the fault repair in Chapter Ⅲ.
If the engine idle is not within the specified value, check the air conditioner vacuum control valve and relevant
pipes and hoses.
2. Pressure switch
Check
1) When the air conditioning system is filled with adequate refrigerant and the air conditioning system (compressor)
is working, check if the switch can conduct at normal temperature. In these two cases, all the switches shall be
turned on.
2) When pressure is within the specified range below, the switch shall not be turned on.
·Is there leak, stoppage and damage in the condenser radiator shutter?
The blocked radiator shutter must be washed with water and then dried by compressed air.
Notice:
Connect the battery to the air conditioner condenser fan motor, and then check if the condenser fan motor can work
steadily, as shown in the right figure.
Check the resistance between every two terminals in the following table.
If the inspection result comply with the requirements, make the next check; if not, change it.
Given a voltage of DC 12V between terminals ―C‖ and ―D‖, check if there is continuity between terminals ―A‖ and
―B‖.
Disassembly
2) Recovering the refrigerant by recovery plant and recycle unit shall follow the requirements of the manual. Be
sure to measure the compressor oil that is discharged and then refill the system with equal amount of compressor
oil.
5) Remove the compressor intake pipe and dryer exhaust pipe from the overhead evaporator assembly.
Notice:
Remove the pipes mentioned above and cover the opened joints to avoid moisture and dust entering the
evaporator.
6) Remove the mounting bolts and screws and then remove the overhead evaporator assembly.
Assembly
1) The overhead evaporator assembly shall be assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly.
2) Vacuate the air conditioning system according to the steps set forth above and then refill refrigerant in the
system.
Refer to the figure below when the overhead evaporator assembly is reassembled after disassembly.
1. Evaporator
2. Fan motor
3. Thermal resistor
4. Air conditioner and fan switches
Check 5. Expansion valve
6. Fan resistor
Fan motor
Evaporator
·Is there leak, stoppage and damage in the evaporator radiator shutter?
The blocked evaporator radiator shutter must be washed with water and then
dried by compressed air.
Notice:
·Be careful not to damage the evaporator radiator shutter. If the evaporator 1. Evaporator
radiator shutter is bent, straighten it with a screwdriver or pliers; if the
fittings or pipes leak, repair them or change the condenser.
·The thermal resistor, if removed, shall be reinstall on the original position.
3) Remove the air conditioner and fan switch connectors, and the remove the air conditioner and fan switches.
4) Check if every two terminals of the air conditioner and fan switches are in correct continuity by an ohmmeter.
Off ○
Low ○ ○
Intermediate ○ ○ ○
High ○ ○ ○
If the air conditioner and fan switches are not on, change them.
―A‖—―B‖ 1.6~1.8
―A‖—―C‖ 2.8~3.0
1. Resistor plug connector
―B‖—―C‖ 1.1~1.3
If the inspection result is not within the range as specified in the table, change the fan motor and resistor.
Expansion valve
Refer to the ―Removal of faults by manifold pressure‖ (procedure) in the chapter.
The fault of compressor includes the following three classifications: air leakage,
noise and underpressure. In most cases, compressor air leakage is caused by
the shaft seal. Checking air leakage usually makes use of leak detector. If only
little oil leaks from the shaft seal, it is unnecessary to change the seal, for it is designed to allow little oil leakage for
the purpose of lubrication. Thus the shaft seal shall be changed only when the oil leakage is great or there is air
leakage by gas detector.
When the air conditioner parts is replaced with the new parts, conjecture the quantity of the oil in every part and
then replenish the oil of the same quantity.
Charging of refrigerant
It may be inevitable to replenish refrigerant even if no part is changed
due to disassembly and assembly of engine or other reasons, and the
charging of engine oil is unnecessary.
When the compressor is changed
As the compressor oil is packaged in every new compressor according
to the air conditioner circulation, it is necessary to discharge the
compressor oil when it is replaced with a new one. The discharge
amount shall be calculated as follows: 1. New compressor
2. Removed compressor
“C”= “D”-“E”
3. Excess oil
“C”: Discharged oil amount
“D”: Amount of oil packaged in the new compressor “A”
“E”: Amount of oil left in the removed compressor “B”
When other parts are changed:
Evaporator 25cc
Condenser 15cc
Ⅵ. Performance test
After all the repair is done, make sure to follow the procedure below to carry out performance test for the air
conditioning system.
Procedure
3) Set the air conditioner and fan switch to the ―high‖ position.
5) Insert a dry bulb thermometer into the cold air outlet and fit a
1. Thermometer
hygrometer (dry bulb thermometer) close to the evaporator air inlet.
2. Hygrometer
6) The reading of high pressure gauge shall be within the specified
pressure range.
7) The reading of the dry bulb thermometer at the air inlet shall be within 25~35℃. Make adjustment to the air
conditioning system to make its high and low pressure and thermometer in the stable state.
Wet-bulb
temperature (℃)
Ⅰ. General
The car‘s power supply system is composed of battery, generator
(three-phase AC generator), rectifier (three-phase AC full-wave rectifier),
voltage regulator (built-in type) and charge lamp. The care is equipped with
12V DC power supply for its electrical equipment.
1. Battery
In the electrical system, the battery has three major functions.
·It can provide electrical energy with the generator in a limited timeframe when the electrical load exceeds the
generator output.
Electrolyte specific
1.28 in full charge at 20oC
gravity
Battery
The battery mounting bracket shall in good condition so that it can secure the battery and keep it level.
Prior to installing the battery, the battery mounting bracket and pressure clamp shall be clean without corrosion, and
the bracket shall not have any part in it.
To avoid the battering swinging in the bracket, the pressure bolt shall be tightened appropriately, but not too tightly.
Electrolyte freezing
。The electrolyte freezing point depends on its specific gravity. As the freezing will damage the battery, it can be
protected against freezing by full charge. If the battery accidentally freezes, it can be charged after thawed.
Sulfation
If the battery is kept a long time in discharge condition, the lead sulfate will become hard crystal, which will be
difficult to translate into active material. ―Sulfation‖ means the result and process of reaction. The battery of this
sort can restore to the available mode by the charging method of devulcanization, but the volume will be lower than
before.
Battery maintenance
Notice: the charging current value of the maintenance free battery shall be selected according to the factory
requirements
Warning:
Pay attention to safety in using and changing maintenance free battery. It is better to wear glasses in the face of
battery. The battery shall be kept away from flame and spark source to avoid explosion and personal injury
accordingly.
Thus, it can judge the technical condition of the battery by observing the indication of the charge indictor.
① If the charge indicator is green, it means the battery is in good condition, and voltage measurement can be made
to further judge the technical
Charging degree lower than 65%
condition of the battery.
Charging degree higher than 65% Electrolyte level lower than limit
② If the charge indicator is
green, but the starting appears to
be weak or costs too much time,
the battery shall be charged.
① Charge the battery fully; connect the carbon pile tester between the positive and negative electrodes as
adjustable load; adjust the load current to the specified value, and then discharge continuously for 15s.
② Measure the batter terminal voltage. If the terminal voltage is above 9.6V, it means the battery is in good
technical condition and can continue using after charged; if the terminal voltage is below 9.6V, it means the
technical condition deteriorates and it cannot be used any more.
The test above is carried out at the ambient temperature of 21oC. The allowable value at different temperatures is
as follows:
The load current shall be as the factory setting when the battery terminal voltage is measured.
Electrolyte Electrolyte Electrolyte
Allowable Allowable Allowable
temperature temperature temperature
voltage (V) voltage (V) voltage (V)
(℃) (℃) (℃)
Charging is necessary when the magic eye becomes black, and the procedure for charging is as follows:
① The circuit between the battery and the charger shall be well connected.
② Charging shall be not started until the charger voltage is adjusted to 14.4V and the current is adjusted to the
maximum.
③ In charging, regular check shall be made to make sure whether the battery suffers overflow and leakage, whether
it puffs air or whether its temperature is above 45℃. Provided any one of them occurs, stop charging immediately
and eliminate the phenomenon.
The generator is three-phase AC generator, which is equipped with three-group full-wave rectifiers made of three
groups (9 diodes) of diodes, as shown in the following figure.
Charging indicator
Generator characteristics
·The voltage regulator is integrated circuit which regulates the voltage produced by the generator to the setting
voltage.
·The generator rotor bearing has so adequate lubricant that it needs no periodic lubrication. The two brushes
transfer the current through the two slip rings to the exciting coil around the rotor. Under normal circumstances, it
need no maintenance over a long time.
·The capacitor fixed in the rear cover can suppress the radio
interference.
Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis
1. Battery
Visual inspection
Check if there is obvious damage, for example electrolyte leakage. If yes, change or repair the battery.
Hydrometer test
Notice:
The method of directly inspecting the battery charge state is to use precision voltmeter to carry out high
current discharge test.
When the battery is half charged, and the electrolyte specific gravity is 1.220.
When the battery is close to discharge state, and the electrolyte specific gravity is 1.150, there is risk of freezing.
If the battery temperature is not 20oC, the specific gravity reading (measured by densimeter) shall be corrected in
terms of 20℃ as the specific gravity varies with the temperature, and the corrected specific gravity shall correspond
with the three values above.
Refer to the coil below that expresses the relation of specific Overcharge
gravity and temperature for the correction method
1) When the ignition switch is turned on, the charge lamp is on;
when the engine is started to work normally, the lamp is off. If the trouble lamp is still on, it means there is a
trouble.
2) If the starter starts slowly or the indicator light is not bright, it means the battery is undercharged.
3) Too much electrolyte leaks out through the holes; it means the battery is overcharged.
The generator noise may be caused by loose drive pulley, loose mounting bolts, bearing wear or dirt, or damage of
diode and stator.
Provided ignition connected, ·The connection of the wires gets Tighten the connector
the charge light is not on slack.
Check the generator
when the engine does not
·The voltage regulator or the field coil
start. Repair or change
is out of order.
Battery
undercharge
Ammeter is between generator (B)
Even if the indicator light is in working order, the case of engine‘s slow terminal and battery (+) terminal
starting is still caused by the following conditions.
The following methods are also applicable to the cars with voltmeter
and ammeter.
4) Connect the voltmeter and ammeter as shown in the right figure. 1. Generator 4. Battery
2. Ammeter 5. Load
Voltmeter 3. Voltmeter 6. Switch
The voltmeter is connected between the generator B terminal and the earth.
Ammeter
The ammeter is connected between the generator B terminal and the battery (+) terminal.
Notice:
No-load check
Regulating voltage
1) Let the engine run at the idle speed of 2,000rpm to read the reading.
Notice:
Turn off the auxiliary equipment switch (wiper and HVAC, etc.)
Notice:
The voltage will slightly vary with the change in regulator shell temperature, as shown in the right figure.
2) Earth the field coil terminal to start the engine, and then measure the voltage at the generator output terminal as
shown in the right figure.
The generator shall be considered good and the voltage regulator damaged, which shall be then changed.
It may the problem of the generator itself, so the generator shall be inspected.
Load check
1) Let the engine run at the speed of 2,000 rpm, and open the headlight and HVAC motor.
2) Measure the current; if the current is less than 20A, change or repair the generator.
Battery overcharge
1) Refer to the section of battery in the ―fault diagnosis‖ in the chapter to determine whether the battery is
overcharged.
2) If there is obvious sign of overcharge like electrolyte seepage, the generator shall be disassembled to check if the
field armature is earthed or short circuited. If there are problems, change the rotor.
3) Measure the voltage when the engine runs at the speed of 2,000rpm.
4) If the measured voltage is beyond the standard range, check the brush earthing and voltage regulator.
Ⅲ. In-car maintenance
1. Battery
In bridging the wires, be careful to treat the auxiliary battery and discharge battery in accordance with the following
procedures, or spark will be caused.
Warning:
1) Battery explosion, battery acidification or fire, which will thus cause serious personal injury (especially
eyes) or damage to mechanical property.
·Be careful not to let the metal tool or jumper wire to touch the battery positive terminal or other metal of
the car, or short circuit will happens.
1) Set the parking brake and automatic transmission to the stop position (neutral of manual transmission), and then
turn off the ignition equipment, light and other electrical load.
2) Check the electrolyte level. If it is lower than the minimum level, distilled water shall be filled.
3) Connect one end of the jumper wire to the auxiliary battery positive terminal, and the other end to the discharge
battery positive terminal (the 12V battery can only be bridged to the starting engine).
4) Connect one end of the jumper negative wire to the auxiliary battery negative terminal, and the other end to the
engine‘s earthed part (for example exhaust manifold) Fixing strap
and at least 45cm (18in) away from the car battery.
Battery
Warning:
Positive wire
6) Disconnect the jumper wire in the reverse order.
2. Charging equipment (the battery shall be charged when the engine is shut down)
Caution:
In starting the engine with charging equipment by jumper, make sure the voltage of the used charging
equipment is 12V, and the negative electrode is earthed. Do not use 24V charging equipment, for it will cause
serious damage to the electrical system or electrical element.
Disassembly
Treatment
·The battery can produce hydrogen, which will be ignited if the battery is close to a flame or spark.
·The battery electrolyte is strongly acidic so that it shall be prevented from splashing on clothes or other fibers. If
the electrolyte splashes, clean it with large amount of water immediately.
Assembly
Notice:
·The car body shall not interfere with the battery wires.
Generator
Disassembly
1. Generator 4. Base
1) Remove the negative wire from the battery. 2. Belt adjusting bolt 5. Generator adjusting stiffener
3. Adjusting bolt 6 Generator belt adjustor
2) Remove the reinforcement of compressor bracket.
Assembly
Notice:
Tightening torque
(a): 23N·m
(b): 50N·m
(c): 8N·m
Generator belt
1. Adjusting screw
Check on belt tension 2. Pivot bolt
3. Belt adjusting bolt
1) Check to make sure whether the belt has cracks, 4. 10kg (22lbs)
notches, deformation and wear and whether it is
clean.
2) Check the belt tension. If the belt sinks 6-8mm when pressed by the thumb (about 10kg), it means the tension is
suitable.
Notice:
The belt tension shall be adjusted to 5`6mm when it is replaced with a new one.
3) If the belt is too loose or too tight, the adjusting bolts and pivot bolts shall be unscrewed. The belt tension can be
adjusted by turning the belt adjusting bolt.
Tightening torque
(a): 23 N·m
(b): 50 N·m
Change of belt
1. Belt pulley
2. Belt pulley bearing
3. Nut
4. Drive end cap assembly
5. Generator front bearing
6. Bearing retaining ring
7. Screw
8. Stud bolt
9. Rotor assembly
10. Generator rear bearing
11. Bearing cap
12. Voltage regulator
13. Brush holder assembly
14. Screw
15. Terminal insulating part
16. Back cover
Disassembly
1) Remove the
bolts and insulating part in the generator output terminal.
·Do not use vice or pipe wrench to hold the belt pulley, or
the belt pulley will be deformed.
1. Rectifier holder
10) Separate the back end cap from the rotor with a
plastic hammer.
Caution:
Caution:
Notice:
Broken circuit
1. Rotor
Slip ring
·Check if the slip ring is not smooth or has scratches; if year, change the rotor
Stator
Broken circuit
Use an ohmmeter to check if all the wires are conductive; if not, change the stator
Ground
Brush
Rectifier
Positive rectifier
1) Use the ohmmeter, with its one probe connected to the generator
output terminal and other other probe to the rectifier terminal (P1-P4)
B: Positive terminal
E: Negative terminal
Bearing P1-P4: Rectifier terminal
Change of brush
2) Roll the new brush wire to the brush holder hole, and then insert
the spring and brush into the holder.
Assembly
Assembly
3) If the rotor is removed, it needs to install the rotor and tighten the
stud bolt.
6) Place the spacer ring and drive end frame on the belt pulley, and then
fit the rotor into the drive end frame.
9) Fit on the belt pulley and tighten the pulley nut to the specified torque.
Tightening torque
(b): 45~60N·m
10) Install the rectifier holder, and fix the stator wire as shown in the figure.
1. Rectifier holder
Caution: 2. Bolt
3. Stator wire
Check to make sure that there is an adequate clearance between the stator wire and cooling fan blade in
fitting on rectifier.
Tightening torque
12) Fit the voltage regulator and brush holder horizontally to the back end frame.
13) Fit on the 5 screws to allow a clearance of about 1mm between the brush holder and the joint.
Tightening torque
Tightening torque
Technical requirement
Allowable
18,000rpm Polarity Minus earth
maximum speed
Tightening torque
Recommended tightening torque
Fastener
N·m Kg·m
Ⅰ. General
The working power supply of the car‘s electrical elements is fed by generator and battery, whose voltage is 12V.
The electric system adopts negative ground.
1. Notice of maintenance
·When the battery is removed from the car or the wire is disconnected
from the battery terminal to carry out check and maintenance of electrical system, it shall be sure that the ignition
switch and other switches have been disconnected, or the semiconductor components may be damaged.
·To disconnect the wire from the battery, the negative (-) terminal shall be first disconnected and then the positive
(+) terminal.
·To connect the wire with the battery, it shall in the reverse order as
above.
·To disconnect the plug connector, it is not permitted to pull the wire Forbidden
harness. First, the lock of the plug connector shall be opened and then
hold the connecter by hand to pull them open.
·The wire harness, when fitted on, shall be fixed by a clip, without
looseness.
·Be careful not to hinder the wire harness or press the wire Click
harness by parts in fitting car parts.
Acceptable
Forbidden
Forbidden
·To avoid damaging wire harness and protect the part contacting the edges and corners against damage, the wire
harness shall be wound by strap, as shown in the figure.
·The fuse, when changed, shall be replaced with that complying with the specified fusing current value. If it is
replaced with the fuse of higher fusing value, the electrical part may be easy to be damaged or it may cause a fire. If
it is replaced with the fuse of lower fusing value, it will be often blown out.
·Be careful not to treat the electrical parts (ECm, relay, etc.) violently by hand or let them fall off.
Not
allowed
Forbidden
Acceptable
·In maintenance, if the temperature close to the electrical part exceeds 80℃, the electrical parts of poor heat
resistance shall be first removed.
·Be careful not to let the plug connector and electrical parts contact water, or a failure will occur.
·Make sure the tester probe is inserted from the wire harness side when it is used to check the conductivity and
measure the voltage.
Forbidden
Forbidden
2. Symbol or sign
In the circuit diagram of this manual, all the electrical parts are expressed by the following symbols and signs:
Main power
Battery Earth (ground) Fuse
supply fuse
solenoid valve
Breaker protector Heater Bulb
coil
Piezoelectric
Wire (wire harness) Relay
element
(Connection) (Intersection)
Normally opened relay Normally closed relay
1) English codes used in this chapter and their full name in Chinese
R-Red RG-Red with green RU-Red with blue RY-Red with yellow RB-Red with black
B-Black BU-Black with blue BG-Black with green BY-Black with yellow P-Pink
PG-Pink with green PU- Pink with blue PB- Pink with black PW-Pink with white Lg-Light green
LgR-Light green with red S-Grey SY- Grey with yellow N-Brown Y-Yellow
Fusible link
3) Combination instrument
4) Headlight
Jinbei Haixing
6) Windscreen wiper
1. Wiper blade 2. Wiper arm 3. Wiper motor 4. Front washer pump 5. Rear washer pump
6. Water tank 7. Hose 8. Nozzle
Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis
1. Power supply failure
Headlight failure
The fuse of the headlight (left Replace with a fuse of the same specification and
Only one headlight fails or right) is both blown out. check if there is short circuit before changed
to work. Repair the line
The fuse of front fog lights are Replace with a fuse of the same specification and
blown out. check if there is short circuit before changed
The flashing The bulb at the side where ―the flashing Change the bulb
frequency is too frequency is too high‖ is damaged.
Replace the bulb
high or only one
The bulbs are wrongly arranged.
side flashes. Check the relay
The turn signal/emergency warning relay is out
Repair the line
of order.
The flashing The power supply voltage is too low. Check the battery voltage and charging
frequency is too system
The turn signal/emergency warning relay is out
low. of order. Check the relay
The fuses of tail lamp and stop lamp are blown Replace with a fuse of the same
out. specification and check if there is short
All are
circuit before changed
inoperative.
Repair the line
The fuse of the back-up lamp is blown out. Replace with a fuse of the same
specification and check if there is short
The back-up lamp circuit before changed
is inoperative.
The fuse of the rear stop Replace with a fuse of the same specification and check if
lamp is blown out. there is short circuit before changed
The stop lamp is
inoperative The switch of the stop light Change or replace the switch
is out of order.
The fuse of the rear fog lamp Replace with a fuse of the same specification and check if
is blown out. there is short circuit before changed
The rear fog lamp
is inoperative. The switch of the rear fog Change the switch
lamp is out of order.
Repair the line
The wire or earthing is out of
order.
When the engine is The bulb of the combination instrument is Change the bulb
not started and the damaged.
Replace with a fuse of the same
ignition switch is not
The main fuse of dashboard is blown out. specification and check if there is short
connected, the oil
circuit before changed
pressure warning
light is inoperative. Check the line of the combination
The line of the combination instrument is
instrument
out of order.
Check the oil pressure switch
The oil pressure switch is out of order.
Repair the line
The wire or earthing is out of order.
In starting (ignition The ignition switch is out of order. Check the ignition switch
switch at the starting
The line of the combination instrument is out Check the line of the combination
position), the brake
of order. instrument
fluid level warning
lamp fails to work. The wire or earthing is out of order. Repair the line
4. Appendix
The defroster fails The fuse of the rear window Replace with a fuse of the same specification and check if
to work. defroster is blown out. there is short circuit before changed
The wiper is out The fuse of the wiper (washer) Replace with a fuse of the same specification and check if
of order or cannot defroster is blown out. there is short circuit before changed
return to the
Check the wiper motor
original position.
Check the wiper switch
The washer is out The washing hose or nozzle is Clean up or repair the clogged hose or nozzle.
of order. clogged.
Check the washer motor
The washer motor breaks down.
Check the washer switch
The washer switch (combination
Fill clear water and change the kettle.
switch) goes wrong.
All the power The power window fuse is blown Replace with a fuse of the same specification and
windows are out of out. check if there is short circuit before changed
order.
Check the ignition (main) switch
The ignition (main) switch goes Check the power window switch
wrong.
Repair the line
The power window switch goes
wrong.
Cigar lighter fails to The fuse of radio/ cigar lighter is Replace with a fuse of the same specification and
work. blown out. check if there is short circuit before changed
Ⅲ. In-car maintenance
1. Headlight
Headlight switch
Check
3) Use a multimeter to check if the circuit at every switch position is conductive, as shown in the follow table.
High beam R
Flicker relay G
Low beam GW
Lamplet KY
Power supply W
Wire and color
Switch position
function
Left turn signal
Stop
Overtaking
High beam
Overtaking
Lamplet
High beam
Overtaking
Headlight
Low beam
High beam
If the circuit is not conductive at corresponding switch position, the combination switch shall be repaired or
changed.
See the detailed description of ―combination switch, steering column and steering lower shaft‖ in the chapter of
―Steering System‖ for the disassembly and assembly.
Headlight
Disassembly
Assembly
Warning:
Notice:
1.Bulb
The headlight has three types: detachable (not used any more 2.Clip
now), semi-detachable and non-detachable. The non-detachable ring
headlight only can be changed wholly.
Notice:
Adjustment
Notice:
Check
Terminal
Switch position
(Off)
(On)
Disassembly
Assembly
Warning:
Notice:
The relay of turn signal/emergency warning lamp is close to the fuse box.
Use a multimeter to check if the switch between the two terminals is closed, as shown in the figure below.
检查
1)从蓄电池上拆下负极导线。
2)断开点火开关导线插接件。
3)使用万用表检查每个开关电路是否接通,如有任何一路未接
通,应更换主开关。
Terminal Constant
Terminal Starter Instrument Earth
Gear current
Gear
Power
Power (w)
(w)
Key lighting
Key lighting
Disassembly
1) Take apart the back seat, and lift the back end of the carpet.
3) Connect one bulb (12V, 3.4W) to an earth wire, as shown in the figure.
4) Turn the ignition switch to ―ON‖, then bulb will light on, and the meter hand will swing several seconds. If it is
out of order, it shall be changed.
Check
20 (Empty)
39.5(alarm point)
Empty
210 (Full)
Water thermometer
Check 1. Battery
2. Water thermometer
1) Disconnect the yellow white wire fixed on the water temperature sensor.3. Test lamp 12V, 3.4W)
2) Use a bulb here (12V, 3.4W) and earth it, as shown in the right figure.
3) As the main switch is turned to ―ON‖, the bulb will light on, and the meter hand will swing several times. If
there is fault, the meter shall be changed.
Disassembly
Warning:
·Prior to disassembly, the negative wire shall be disconnected 1. Water temperature sensor
from the battery.
Check
Heat the water temperature sensor to check if the resistance of the water temperature sensor reduces as the
water temperature rises.
Temperature Resistance
50℃ 230Ω
90 52Ω
110 25Ω
120 21Ω
130 15.7Ω
The assembly shall be made in the reverse order of the assembly, and pay
attention to the following requirements:
The thread of the water temperature sensor shall be applied with sealant.
Tightening torque
(a): 8 N·m
10. Oil pressure warning lamp (engine oil)
Check
Wiring harness
Use an ohmmeter to check if the switch is closed.
Cylinder block
The engine is running. Not closed (∞Ω)
11. Brake fluid level signal lamp and parking brake signal lamp
Check
OFF(closing) position
Not closed
(parking brake released)
ON(Opening) position
Closed
(parking brake handle pulled up)
12. Seat belt signal lamp
Check
OFF position
Not closed
(seat belt fastened)
ON position
Closed
(seat belt opened)
Defroster switch
Check
Use an ohmmeter to check if the defroster switch is closed. If the switch between the two terminals fails to be
closed, the switch shall be changed.
Terminal
Switch position
Probe
Defroster wire
Check
Notice:
Tinfoil
·The rear window glass, when cleaned, shall be wiped by cloth along the wire direction.
Heating wire
·The glass shall be not cleaned by detergent or washer with abrasive
At center (point)
·To measure the wire voltage, use tinfoil to wrap the negative probe of the multimeter and press it to the
wire by hand. Good
Notice:
Repair
2) Pad the upper and lower ends of the heating wire with
adhesive tape to facilitate maintenance.
Low speed LB
Return UV
Power supply FV
Washing RS
Horn UG
tapering brush.
4) 2~3 minutes later remove the adhesive tape
Check
3) Use an ohmmeter to check if the switch position circuits are closed, as shown in the table below.
Washing
Horn
Power supply
Washing pump
1. Battery
2. Wiper motor
3. Red wire
4. Black wire
See the detailed description of ―combination switch, steering column and steering lower shaft‖ in the chapter of
―Steering System‖ for the disassembly and assembly.
Wiper motor
Check
l) Use a 12V battery, with its (+) terminal connected with the
a) Connect the (+) terminal of a 12V battery to the wiper motor terminal ―A‖, and the (-) terminal to the bracket
(wiper earthed) to run the motor.
b) Remove the terminal ―A‖ from the battery to stop the motor.
c) Connect terminals ―A‖ and ―D‖ by jumper wire, and connect the terminal ―C‖ to battery (+) terminal. Observe
the motor‘s operation again, and finally stop it at the
given position.
Washer pump
Disassembly
3) Disconnect the pump wire plug connector and remove the hose.
Check
Connect the battery (+) terminal and (-) terminal with the pump
(+) terminal and (-) terminal respectively to check the pump
displacement.
Assembly
2) Disconnect the combination switch plug connector and remove the hose.
3) Turn the wiper switch to the INT (intermittent) position.
4) Connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal ―power supply‖, and the battery negative terminal to the
headlight switch terminal ―GND (Ground)‖.
5) Connect the voltmeter positive pen to the terminal ―low speed‖, and the negative pen to the terminal ―GUN
(ground)‖. Check the battery voltage (10~14V) indicated by the voltmeter.
6) Use the jumper wire to connect the terminals ―return‖ and ―power supply‖, and then connect the terminal ―power
supply‖ with the terminal ―GND (ground)‖.
posterior to connecting the jumper wire to the terminals ―power supply‖ and ―GUN (ground)‖, observe that the
voltmeter voltage drops to 0V, and then rises to the battery voltage (10V~14V).
1s
Common faults in wipers and washer are as follows: wiper failure to actuate; wiper out-of-position stop; wiper
trembling and washer failure to spray.
(1) The causes for the failure that the wiper fails to actuate after the switch is closed are as follows:
1) Circuit failure, for example fuses blowout, circuit poor contact or breakage;
4) Motor damage
1) Check the fuse and the line; if there is breakage in the circuit, repair or change it; if there is no problem, make
further checks.
2) Check the voltage of switch power supply terminal to ground, which shall be the battery voltage; if none, check
the power supply line before the switch carefully; if the voltage is normal, make further checks.
3) When the switch is closed, measure the voltage of switch output terminal to ground. If there is no voltage, it
means the switch goes wrong, and shall be changed. If the voltage is normal, it means the switch is all right. Then
make a further check.
4) Switch on the intermittent wiping gear to see if the time delay relay acts; if it does not act, check or change the
time delay relay; if it can act normally, make a further check.
5) Touch the motor by hand when the switch is closed. If the motor fails to make response, it may be motor failure,
and the motor shall be repaired or changed. If the motor vibrate slightly and buzzes and heats, it may be such case
that the transmission mechanism is jammed or damaged, so that it shall be repaired.
(2) Fault diagnosis and repair: check the transmission mechanism; if it is not defective, it is necessary to remove
and repair the motor.
3. Wiper trembling
1) The wiper is aged, bent or has an improper dip angle with the glass.
(2) Diagnosis and repair: first check if the windscreen is stained with dirt and if the wiper is normal. If both are
normal, repair the transmission mechanism.
1) The reservoir has no washing liquid, the liquid tube breaks or the nozzle is clogged.
(2) Diagnosis and repair: first, check if the reservoir has washing liquid, if the liquid tube breaks or if the nozzle is
clogged; if not, check if the washer pump circuit is open; if not either, repair the washer pump.
Ⅳ. Circuit diagram
1. Fuse box
Main Front Oil Air compr Air Backup 10A Water tank fan
conditioner
relay fog pump conditioner essor relay
electronic
relay relay relay relay fanrelay
Backup 15A
20A left 10A 15A Radio 10A Radio lamp Backup 15A
headlight blower cigar lighter instrument
20A 50A
left ignition
headlight switch
Backup 20A
Backup 10A
Cooling
Backup 15A
fan
Main relay Front fog lamp relay Oil pump relay Air conditioner Compressor Cooling fan
Backup 20A
2. Fuse box 2
Bushing:DJJ7053A-6.3-21
15A main 10A ECD 10A lamp/ 10A stop 10A fuel 15A left 15A right
relay instrument dome light lamp pump headlight headlight
3. Combination instrument wiring diagram
A terminal
B terminal
B terminal A terminal
B5 A5 Fuel sensor