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i C o P Y R I G H Tl 9 ! 1 , l 9 t t aA N D t 9 6 2 B y T H E F A B R T C OCNO S p A X Y

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cHtcAGo, |lLtNOt5

I C O P Y R I G H T €UO
NDER
U N I V E R S ACLO P Y R I G HCTO N V E N T I O N

I A L L F O R E I GR
NI G H TR
SESERVED

I REPRODUCTION
VIOLATORS
IN WI{OLEOR PARTsTRICTLYFORSIOOEII.
WILL BE PROSECUIED TO THE M XhIUM

I EXTENTPERMITTED 8Y LAW

I ALL RIGHTS
RESERVED

' FAIIICON u
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I FRENfVAY } SYSTEM

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I I'I{I] NC I{ R UW EA\T ING

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l ) e l i i l ( , d a n d c o r n l ) L r ' ! ci n s t r u c t i o n s

I in thr' :rrl ol
trr('nch Invisiblc ll(,\!e:rving

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o 1 9 5 1 , 1 9 5 - 1d n d 1 9 6 2 b y t h e F a b r i c o n C o m p a n y Chicago, Illinors

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I COPYRIGI]TEU
D N D E RU N V E R S A LC O P Y RG H T C O N V E N T I O N

A L L F O R E I C NR I 6 H T5 R E 5 E R V E O

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l l'rivately printi,d xnd published
l')

I T I I ! ] I T A I ]I T I C O N C ] O M I ' A N Y
in a limited edition

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I * Trade Mark

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I THE FRENWAY SYSTEM Page l

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I TABLE OF CONTENTS

I INTRODUCTION P:i g. z

I EQUIPMENT NECESSARY

T Y P E S O F F A B R I C S , F R O M S I M I - L E TO COMPLFJX .
Pag e

Pagt:
5

I PREPARING 'TH!]
DAMAGFJD FABRIC FOII REWT]AVING F;rge tz
FIRST PRACTICE EXERCIS!]. P:Lgr: I :.1

I PROFESSIONAI, METHOD OF NEI'DLI]

'IHR}]ADING
P.rg(] l5

I TEASING OTJ'I' PROCESS

THE TECHNIQU E OF DIPPING

Irn g( ) 9

Pagt: z2

t HOW TO MAKE JOININCS

DISPOSING OF LOOSF] I]NDS

P;tgc 24

Pirg. 2 9

I REWEAVINC WHEN ROTFI WOOF AND WARP ARE GONF] P;rg.r jj

.THE 'f Iragc 4 0

TWO-AND WO WEAVI]
I COMPT,FJX WEAVES - COUNTING OUT P:rg.: 4 4

I HERRINGl}ONE PATTERNS P;r g.) 4 8

TWILL WEAVF]S . GABARDINI)S Page 5l

I FANCY WEAVI]S Pago 5 3

REWEAVING LINENS Page 55

I STOTING Pagc 6 4

I DESCRIPTION
FABRICS
AND ILLUSTRATIONS OF WIDELY USED
69
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I A F1NAL WORD Page

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 THE FRENWAY SYSTEM Pagt 2

INTRODUCTION

A l t h o u g h a D i n t e n s e s e a r c h h a s b e e n g o i n g , ) r ld u r i n g t h e l a s t s e v c r a l
years for job opportunities, a very satisfying occupation, FRllNCll
INVISIIIL!l ItItWEAVING, has bcen ov(rlooked. In l sense, this rs sur-
prising because the occupation does not requirc formal oducaiion, does
not reeuire gre:rl strength or unusuaL physical altractivcness, does not
require expensive officc spacc of elaborate equipment, and does rrot
r J c n r i r n Ca s p e c i a l k n a c k f o l d e a l i n g w i t h l ) c o p l e . , { 1 l t h r t i s D c c t ' s s i l r . J
is suflicicnt inlelLigcnce tounderstand simpLc illstructiolrs, normal Ly(]-
sight - with {)f u'ithDut g)asscs, a)rd thr' pnlicnce lo }earn thc art andlo
practice it to perfcction.

I'rolJrLly lhc .ollson this r|l {)f r.ewi:rving has g.rD| r.(.llrlivuly ut)-
noticed is the grcat secrecy which hrs hcretof()re kept .rII bui il iew
p0ople in thc !r'orld in ignorance of tho Lcchxiqu.s ir)volved. lhr'st
s(crt-ts have been c1()seIy guarde(i rrrr(l h:rnrled dow.r frorn gorlcr;rtio tL)
g(rr(r'trli()rl to.r s(.lcct f{w. 'fltc (Jnl! (xc(rptions
\,!('rc lx)r)l)lcwhr) l,irid
hugc sunrs in ordcr to rec(iivc k owl(dgc of thc irrl. Ilvcry novic(.r'!j
w(:rvc. lril(i1o stx nd yeirrs ls ;rn .rppr0ntic(..

'lhc t(
sLrll (rf Lhi- t)olicy has bor'n :r slladily incrcasing (lc|lllrn(ltor
lh{ selviccs of ( xl! rls in tlr,. ll't oi I'r( |lch Lrvisil)t.j itcw(,;Lvi g,, ft'orD
t h ( ' v ( , r ! s m 1 l l n L r n r b , , r o fy I : o 1 , I t . w l 1 oi r I ' c c i r l ) l l ) L c o i g i v i [ g t h J l t s , . r v i c u .
( l c ) n s c r l r L c n i l y ,l l l , , s ( 5 l < j I 1 , r ( rl ( \ { ( , : L v c r : rc a n o l ) t i r i n g o o c lf r , ( | s f o r t h c w c r r . t <
th(,v do. A)so, lhci hav(' llr l)r'r':j1ig('ll\lys acc.)rd{,d skillcd crllls-

In vir.w of lhlr frct thrt iD these tirnes the dcrnirnd for lxrrsr)ns who
can r'cpilir burns, snngs, 1ears, or worn pl{ces in any type ,rf cloth
f a b r i c s o s k i l l f u l l y t h : r l ! h e d a m a g c c a n n L ) l s b o w , s o f i 1 r e x c ( r e c t st h c
nurnber of such persons in this ()ccupalion, thc .ruthors ere sacrificing
th. tiaditi!)n of sec!'ecJ in order thal morc ppopl' maJ become awitrc
of this vocation and \vill cntcr it. Th{rrc is no darrger th:rt thc field will
becomc ()vcrcro\r'd!'d, because th{rrr, is so mucb invjsi))Ic roweaving to
bc done and so few people who can do it.

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'I'here
is coDsiderable satisfaction in laking a beautiful cloth gar-
ment, table cover, or something else of woven material which has been
ruincd by accident, carclessness, or wear, and restoring it to its
original attractivcness and durability. 'l'bis
is not rnere se\errlg o|
meDding. This is thc art of rcweaving - replacing by hand the INDI
VIDUAL thicads that have been clamaged, folLowing the samc weave as
the machine or hrnd-weavers that produced the orifinal cloth_ Thc
occup:r1ion ne\,cr bccorlres monotonous because the art of textile-
weaviDg has, thr()ugh thc agcs, cl.c:rted an inestimablc variety Df pat-
le.os by rr1r'rns ()f variations in weavjng paltIrns, c()lor.-., and thread

liut for Jll ils intricacy, woavirrg can be lcarncd by dilig(jr)l and
pr()gr( ssivr) rpptic:rtiorr on lhc paat of :riry n()rmalLy intclligent person.
Likc :rny ncw urdcrtaking, rcweaving will mrkc :r pcrson more fatigued
durir)g the fir,rt st:rgcs of L'arning thirn it will wlxrD th.i fundamonlal
st. I)s iD the l)f()c(iss havr bccomo rutomatic. This is especicllv iruc
()i th( ( ycs. As l()ng xs on( 'scy( sight is nor'rnal, cithcr wilh o. with()ut
gllss(s, irll thilt rnyonc rlceds is proper tighting rt tho work tlble.

Ollcr' :r lx fs')D l):rs n)i,5ttrcd thr' :rrt (,f I't'wravir)9, hc or :.llL mir.y
s(ck.L positir)o with a r!.w(:ivinA coml)rny, may sct up ir shop of his or'
hr)r own, or rn:ly pursue ihc work as :l profiloblc hobby at hornr', If tho
rowcirv(f stirfts iLncw vc|ltur(i, som() initiirl solicitation ofwork may
bL r)oc(,ssary, but aftL'r the r'xcr'llcnce ()f lhL. workr)lanship has b€ien
( stlblish(d, tllcrc will bc an cndLess stream of customcrs to tht. shop.
Jobs rnay be rclcrrcd to you by trilors and dry cleanc.s :rs weIL. How-
('ver, thc businerss of djrect clrst(rmers mry bc cncouraged by pointing
oui lhat thc handling c))lrgcs of lrilors aDd dry clerncrs can be eli-

L r o r d c r t r , a l t a i n t h c d e g r ( ' ( ( ) f c o r n p c t L - n c en e c e s s a r y t o b u l l d . r n d
nlailltain rr thriving rr'w(aving bLrslness, onc must do oxcellent invisible
rewcaving. Ihis you can learn t(J.lo by carefully following the instI.uc-
tions given in this n\anual, ncvcr slighting the pfaclice sessions out-
Iined in e.rch srction, and procecdiDg slowly, step by step. If you plungc
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! i[to the learning process too hastily and unsystematically, y()u will be-

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come confuscd and discouraged. Read thc instructions sentence by
sentence, paragraph by paragraph, section by section, lN SEQUENCE,
making certain that you mastcr each before tackling thc ncxt one. If
you find something which is not cle.rr to you, go back over the in-

IT structioils slclwly and carefully, sentencc by sentence and phrasc by

phrase, cioing c:rch movemcnt just ds it is prcsented,

Grcal care h:rs bcen taken in prep:rring this rnanual of instruction.

t It coulcl have bccn made muclr largcr

about th() historical dcvelopment
to include detailed information
of many kinds of lrl.rnl and animal fi-
bers for the rnanuf:rctLrre of thrc:rd, of fhc variety of welrving rncllrods,

I of the grildual inlroduction ot ln:rchinery int() th{' tcxtil(, \\,eaving indLrs-

try, of th(' (lisl)laccmcrrt of fabrics by ncrvly discovercd oncs, of the
changcs in [ashion and laste, clc. I]ul this informalion, while intercst-

I irlg, would not incr(ase Ihe valuo of ihe l)ook, which waswritten
slr'iclly fof lhc purposo oi tellirrg you thc b( st wly to loarll how to do
Frcnch lllvisibl{' Rewcirving. Addilionrl information would be distract-

I ing rnd confusing.

I N() effort has bt en spar.'d in the xticmpl to mak() you an expert

cri,rfismirn. 'lhe instructions havc becrput in thc simpl( st possibl() lan-
guag(i. 'fhorc afo dI'rwings ilnd ph.rlogr.rphs designL'd to rnlkc the text

I still cloarer. Evcn samt'l€-'s of cloth have becn provided in order that
you rn:ry uDcl(rstand better and practice from thc v(ry b.ginning. Inas-
much as rewcaving necdlLrs are imported and difficult to purchasc,

I these are also provided.

authentic and complctc.
This manual is the only one of its kind. It is

I Now let us begin to lc.rrn this pleasant :rnd profitable art.

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PREPAR
I N GT O L EA RN

E Q U I P M E N TN E C E S S A R Y

llxpericnce has shown that it is best to have each worker supply

his own scissors, tweezers, thimblc, and darning needles and large
safcty pins for fasteners. However, reweaving needles of assortcd
sizes are suppliedwith thism:rnual, since they are difficult topurchase,

The implements wilh which you outfit yourself should meet thc fol-
lowing spccific:rtions :

'l'hc
s(wing scissors should be non-tarnishing (pr{rferably plaicd)
ancl noi cxccccl four inches in length. Of course, they must be sharp
and wcll made in ordcr that snipping coarse thr( ads wilh thc points c:rn
bc donc casily.

'fhe tweezers (forceps)

must be of good quality so that the points
will "justify" - come logether exactly. You probably know how hard it
is to pluck an eyebrow with poorly made tweezers; consequently, you
reaLizehow useless they would be on a reweaving task.
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The thimble requircd must be a regular one, that is, one with an
I encloscd end. Perhaps you need to bc reminded that a thimble shoLrld
fit the middle finger of your sewing hand - not too loosely and not too
tightly.
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For fastening material to be rewoven, No. 5 darning [eedles are
I excellent, for they have sharp points and length without being dispro-
portionately thick. Large safcty pins are .tll right, too. Not so salis-
factory are large straight pins, for they usualiy are quite thick and
I have rather blunt points.

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PICTURE NO. I - Here i3 ( weover3'fiine or he. d.sk.

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TIE FRLNWAY SYSTEM Page ?

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tI Later, Sfter you bave advanced tolearDiDg and practicing rewFrv)ng
on cloth made of fine threads, .you nray find it edsier il you ii-e lln op-
tical aid for magnificalion.
tsinocular Loops,
Surll an aiiL is kuown as ll.igni-SrAlntr
llul don't purchasc this right a1vay, for.y()ut. r'ycs
will adjust gr:rdually to lhtiif ne!v tasl( as you beconro mor.e rccUsionled

I to thc work :1ndrcrnaiD nror,' relirxeil irs you work.

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'Ihcrc
irr{' wcaving rcedles N(Js. 0,7, tJ,9 and 10 wilh this milnLrll.
No.(j rnd 7 are uscd olr coarsc ci()ih, No. i] :rnd No. 1l(nr m('dium li,
fittc tft|t':rdcd in torial, alrd No. l0 on fine and vo|y finc w(nv(s.

I Il is wisc to ke('p on hand rrn em.ry bag thr()ugh which you sh{)uld

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')c( ilsionrlly run your ne.dlcs in or'(ior l() kc( p th( nr srn(xrlh. Ir r))r,y
l'. t',rr.hirs, J j, .,r\'... 'Fr \, ll rg , sir.r_,,tuit,n. r, .

lacw(,irviug is dort( irl tt lr,l)l( or dLrsk :-o Pr,,vidr'\'ouIs, lf with thI

foll0w i ng;

I A wor'h tabkr, 3 0 o r ' : i L i n c h { s l r i g l L , r , i l h i r t o l ) i r t ) t ) r o x i n r i r t (l v : j 0 x

I 20 inches.

I A pillow of coarse feirthL'rs or of kapok, about llJ to 15 inchcs

squ:rrc, lo which you will fasten thc mat.rriirl which v()u .rr'o iew"rving.
'leck
the pillow to thc top of your r ork table thus: 'l'ack down the front

I edge, push lhe feathcrrs or kapok loward the back in order lo rnakc tho
back of the pillow higher tban the front, then tack down thc back edge
of the pillow firmly.

Ir AD adjustable, fluorescenl lamp, Jrreierably with two tubes to el-

iminatc flickerlirg-

I A straight chair that fits your body contours in order to minrmize

fatigue.

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l)hotograph on Pagi- 10 - shows you ho$ you sh(ruld lJe eqlLipped in

ord,.r 1o do reweaving cfticiently.

.IHI';
]'IIIt])OS}; OI', TIIF] MANIJAL

l,.rt)cri('ncL'has taugirl us thrt people golting rearly for lriri,ring in

rt'wr'irvir)g ,rr('oftcn so l(,r)sc lhirl they find it hard to f()ll()w;rrr.l1(rfc-
rncrnlr(,r'or':rl instructi(,ns, Alsct, pr:rson:; who havc l)ec()ln(. , xl)( rt
w('lv( rs find il ha.d t() leach new p(oplc, f()r thcy havc forgott(.n.iLrsi
whai (tiflicuLtics and fccLings thcy had when thcy firsl learnfd. F urthcr-
mor{', thc exl)crts.rre v( ry busy and oft(:n m,rsi intcrrupt training \,.s
s i o ' ) s i D ( ) r r l Lr ' 1 o l e n d t o s o D r . ' s l ) r ' c i ; r l w ( ) r k .

l'her(rforc, this maourl will tLrch y()u bow 1o l)('c()rnc:rn ( xpr:rt rc-
woirvrr with()ut having 1() r('ly ()n somt' one pcrs()n to lriLin yr)ll. tlse
l h L s n r i r n u a La s i r t { ) x t b o o k - I t a t h c - r t h : u I l c a r n : L r r yI r i ' r t ( ) i t h ( r ( \ r , , ,r v r n d
I)ro.j,:is i correctly, w.it(i to us, il ilr).ythin,jir llx, l(xtl)ot)l( rs not
c()rrl)l(lIlycl.rartoyouirs you go systornaticallythroLrghtll( insll.Lrctions.

w i , t , \ v t N ( i I t n N ( i l , i st r t t o M ' f r I F )s I M P l , L | r o f I , lc o M I ) l - l . i x

WIaving is done by plLltirlg thrirads over, lh(n rrlld.'r other thrcrds

rurning at rjght angles to th{r first threir.ls. In {)r.ler to rnake thc pr()-
cess casi(,r 1 o explain, w l t c n c l ( ) t h i s n l a d e t h e thrc.rcls fastened 1l'ngth-
N i \ r ' i r r l l l ( ) { ) l l ro r e k ) ) o u n u s t h u W a r p a n d t h o s e i n t c r l l c e d t h r ( ) u g l r t h e '
W : L r ' pc r o s s r ' . ' i s r ' a r c c - t L l c d i h e W o o f . I ' h c r e f o r e , w ! r L v i n g i s c l o r n rw h c n
thc Wo()f is f,]ssr)d over and under ihe Warp with |larln('d regtllarity.
Visu:rLgran /1 I shows thc rclationship.
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I V I S U A L G R A MN O . I . S i n p l . b o 3 k a tw e o v . , o r ' r o n € o n d o n . " w . o v . .

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:\
i9r

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P I C T U R E N O . 2 - T h i 3 i s r h e t o p o l r h e w o r k d e s k 3 h o w i n gp r o p e rp l o 4 e m e n r
dnd 5i:e o{ the pillow. Notice how rhe pillow is io.k€d ro rhe desk ot {our
c o r n c r s - A l s o o b s e r v eo l l t h e r e c e s s o ' y e q u i p h e n t - s c i s s o r s , i w e € z e r s , t h i m -
b l e o n d s p o o l o { i h r e o d - T f i € s o l e t y p i n s o n d l o r g e n e e d l e s s t o n d i n qu p r i g h to r e
u s € d i o f o s t € n r h e s d r m e n ri o r h e p i l l o w w h i l e i t i s L e i n s r e w o v e n . T h e i e e d l e s
lyihg on rhe pillow ore rhe French Invisible re*eovins needleswitfi which you
h o v e b e e n s u p p l i e d . N o f i c e l h e E m e r y B o g b e r w e e nr h e r w e e a e r so n d r h i n b l e .
 .].
H I F R I , ] NW A Y S Y S T N M Irag€r U

\4hcire.rchthroad of lhe Wo()f (cr.)ss lhr(,ad) goes ovef on(. threaLl

of thc \|arp (lor)gththrer.l), then undcr thc nc\t siDglp thr(,cd, rhiln over
i h , : .t h i . d , u n d ( r t h ( - f o L r r t h , e t c . , t h ( r ( s u l t i s a p i e c c o f c i o t h h r L v i n g
l : , i m p l e " b r s k c t r , e a v c " . L : x : r r ) r p l ( - so i l h r s ! y p ( , ( r f w ( _ , : r v ea r ' ( . o r d i l l a r . y
t w ( , ( d s , w h i c h h : r v ( ' c o a i s c t h 1 ( ' : r d s , r n d t r . o p i c : 1 l, , \ ' ( ) r s t r ) d s ,w h i c h h i L v e
snrooth, fin(' threrds. l r o r s i r ] rt jI i c i r , V i : i u r l g r ' : | r 1 w l l s d r a $ , n : l s : r
"\.
( ) r 1 ( . - i u t d - o n co r l ) r s l ( c l w c r v c , . r l t l r ( , r L l hi t c 0 u l d h . r v c j l l u s t r n l . d l n r o r . c
c o n r p L ( , xw c a v e l ) l l l c | n .

A s i r l r ) r , t u ' ( ) r l r l L w o w c a v I i s t h ( ) r 0 s L r i i \ , , l r e no i r c t r t h n | r d o f L h ( ,
W ( ) L ) f( c r o s s l h r ' c r 1 c ll)) r s s c : i ( ) v c l ' t h ( n L \ t l \ I , o t h r . ( i r r t s o f 1 h ( i \ \ , r r r . p( l e n g t h
t h r ( ' i r d ) , t h c n L r ] r ( l e rl h { r 1 1 ( ' x tl w ( ) , l l r i , r , r , r , r ' r .I h c n ( x l . t ) r r i r , ( t c . l l e r l ' i n g ,
l , r r r r r ' l w i l l i s r r r n o r ( j c o m t ) l e x w , i , v r - .$ h i c h m i k ( s II I t ( , r .rI II t (.I d i i r g o n l l l
l r r ) (s i i r l h ( ' l ) i r i l . c r . ng o i n o p p o s i l r ' d i r { , c t i r ) r r s .

You n)Lrsl I('irrn lhcs{ v,rrious prtt( li)s in ()rd( r 1o rcwcrrv' dirm;,Ar:rl
(:'rnr('nt:, c()rr( cltJ. lJUl (1on't !!orr.\,, !()u wiii i(,lrn ()nc sl( l) :rr rl tinrr),
i ' ( i m t l r c s i r r t ) l c s l i o t h r ) m o s t c ( ) m l , 1 c x , w i r h I , L ( , n l y( ) f t i r n L , t o r . t l . i r c r i c ( ,
iLl euch sl(.1). Y(,u wilL kirrn :rnd trrlctic( otl slmt)l(is, includirrg rh()s(
frrrnishc(t witll lhis rtrnn ll, unti[ ,Vo(l.w()rk is finlllJ good cDougll for
)ou t ( ) t ) c a l l o w o d l o c o m m o n c c r e w ( : r v i n g d i r l l ] i l g c d p l a c c s i n g a r . m . , n rs .
(l or lricl.urfs rLnd dcscription ()[ tll(,m.)rr] cornmonl) uscd f:rbrrcs sc(,
prrqcs iig lnd ?0).

l ] ( l o w v o u s c c i r s i l n l ) l ( o u ( . - a r ( l - o r ) ( ' \ i ' (i r v ( o n l h r . r e w o i g h t s of cloth,

c()3r'so, rr(,dium, lncl finc.

F I NE

PICTURENO. 3 - Abov. you s6e o s i m p l c o n c o n d o n e w e o v e on three weighl!

.oor3., nediun ond fin6.
 THE FRENWAY S Y S T E M Page l2

REWEAVING A 5II'tPLE BASKET TEAVE

PRt PAIiINCi A DAMAGED PIECI,. FOR II.EWEAVING

In order- not to fall into aDy poor work habils, you must flrst{rn the
samples for learning just as you would a garment being prepared for
r()weaving. Always pin the clotlt sccurely to the cushion on y()ur work
tablc with scvclal of the heavy darning fleedles or pins. 'fhc cloth must
bc fastened firmly in ordcr to prevent "drawing". It is hitrd to follow
the threads of cloth which "draws" for then thc threads rre not lJing in
their naturrLLy straight row s.

Adlust y()ur llrmp so th31 you cirn s(.e the thrcads cl(arly.

Ilegin wclring your thimble whcn you work. Mlny p(ot)k, havo to
got accustorned to wearing a tbirnbl{r, but usL]of ()m is nec( ss. J in
orcler to prevcnt gctting a painfull! sorc fingcr fr()nr l)ushing lhe n( i dl(,
ihrough thr fa Lrric s.

As you u'61k, hold thc cloth iirmly, b\rl not s()',igh'.ly ttrnt it wilt
draw. Usu!hr.needle with your right hand. Your left hand will be hold-
ing the clotb, with your lcft thumb rtuitc close lo thr linc of the throad
you are rc\ve;rving at the momeltl. ()1 course, if you ar'e left-handed,
you hold the cloth lJvith thc right hJnd and use the needle with your left.

Picture #4 shows thc cloth f^stcned to the pill()w and the proper
holding position. You will find this is the position ()[ nraximum com-
fort and case.
 'f
HE FittjN\AJAY SYSTEM Pag.r 13

PICTURE NO.4 - Proporm.ihod o{ holdine donog.d gorn.nr whilG it ir b.ins

E XER C I S EN O .I

ITIITS'f I'ITAC'I'IC]E I]XERCISE

Y()u h.rv() been giv€rn a sarnple ()f a simple bitsket weavc. lt is mrrrk-
cd Somple No. 1 aDd is a iweed. Not(' that the we.{ve ()f cach thrcad is
ovL'r onL'warp (length) tirread, under thc next, ovcr the third, r)tc.

'lhc
sample on which you are lcarning probably has ljghter woof
(cross) thr'eads than it has warp (length). It is easier to s(-'eand to fol-
low a lighi thread. This will make practicing easier.
 IHE FRENWAY SYSTE II'T

P i c k u p a n l ' e d l e a n d b e g i n 1 ( )l r a c c o n e o f t h e r v o o f ( c r - o s s )t h r c a d s
b y i n s e r t i n g t h e n e e d l e L l n d e r l 1w . r r p ( l e n g t b ) t h r e { d , t h c n g o i n g o v c r
t h e n e x t w a r p t h r e u d , L l n d e rt h e n e x t , o v e r t h e n c x t , . r t c . R e e s p e c i a l l y
c a r e f u l t o b € .g u i d e d a l l t h e t i m c b y t h e s a m e w o o f i h . { r x d . l t i s s o e a s y
to get off the track thal you should practice this irt lo:rst a dozen timcs.

I)o th( sl(l) once morc and lLave the teedle in tlll, fal)r.ic. Witlr il
nother necdl., lrace lhe woof {cross) lhread just bolou lhe first on(, i)r
exsclli th(. s.rm.i 1r3J. If ir h:is lreen d,)nc cr)rrt,ctl), )ourvill see thirl
wh{rrever thc first wooi (cross) threird go(]s over it \{.irp (lcngth) tllr.ead,
the sccond wo.if thrcad goes un(l.r it; wher(vcr lhr, tjrst woof jhrr,:rd
gocs unrlef iL warp lhrcad, the s.cond woof thrcad gors ov(,r i1. Sec
Visualgrlm il.

V I S U A L G R A MN O . 3 - T h i s . h o e . . n e e d l e r r o c i n g o n e w o . { r h r e o do n o . i m p l e
o n e o n d o n € w € o v e . N o r i . e h o w r h . o c e d l c g o e s u n d e ro n . w a r p r h r c o d ,o v e r r h e
n e t t { o r D l h r . o d u n d € rt h . n € r t o n d 3 0 o n .
 THE FRENWAY sYs T!. rvr PageI5

E X E R C I SN
E O .2

P R A C T I C EW I T I I T } I R E A D E DN E E D L I ] S .

Aft.rr )ou have co..cctly traced severaL uoof (cross) lhrerr(ls u'lrLclr
run iust below oilch othc-r, You are reodv to {rractic( \'irir thre:t'r"r
nccdles. S D y o l r D r L r s tl e a r n t h r : p r o f c s s i o n a l w a y l o t h l a r a d a r l c ( d l L '

.TIft] TIIITLJADING A NEF]I)LF].

AITl'OF

(;et ir lhrcad from thc bottorD r'clgcof thr'cloth. I'rrt)rrblY l()rr hirvt
n( vcr lricd to lhrced i1 nccdlc wrth a coarsc wool thrcad bcfore. Tllc
professiorlalway is much casit)r then tr'l/ing to poke l ra\v, errsilyfray('d
cnd thr()ugh thc eyc .rf iL needle. llLrt cvcn thr l)rofessiorllll way has t()
l)r' donc hundrcds of liJrres rn (r'der io be rccon)lrlish(tl srn()()thlJ" Sr)
g€rt startr.l I

Loot) th! thrc:rd ilround thc ntedLo, pr(issing tho thumh agritrst thL'
f o r ( f i n g ( r ( i n d c x f i n t j t r ) - w i l h t h ( l h r ( r l d b 1 ' t \ ! e tn t h ( m - j u s t u n d ( r l l r '
n|c.tlc, \!hichishcldhorrzontally, S,r( Visuillgrirrn No. 4:rnd pictur(' No'
5. Wherr you m.rke tho loop, do so in such a way lhrrl thrl c will bo v|ry
lilt]l doubled threrrd below the part looPcd ovci lh(r nccdle. Make thc
loop ils liAhl :rround thc nec'dlc lrs possiblo, h()lding lhL'ihuInbnail tight-
LYrgrin5t th. for( firlltet. l)r!w rht thre.r.l otf lhe eye-en(l of lhc Ircc'lLc
and push th( tiny loo,i through thc r'yc. Visualgr.rm No 5 irnd))icturP ND'
( i . l ' u 1 1 t l ) o e n l i f e L i o u b l e d p o r ! i o l r o f t h e l h r L a d t h r o u g h t h t ) n ' r ( r r l l Pr r r
orderlo k(cp tht thrcad fronl coning out whon the needLe is bcingusecl'
- it is
N()w you caD sec whj' you should not stari with too lrrge a loop
too hlrd to pull a long doublcd th.ead through the eye ot a needl(i- Vis
ualglams Nos, .i and 5 and Pictures Nos 5'6, and ? dcDrr)nslr'rie rl)L
lhr'eading process. Study them carefully, but rnore irnPortrnt, pr:r'lrci-
lhis n\an), many i imc s.
 I'IIL FITLN\I A\ SYSTI,M Page l6

V I S U A L G R A MN O . 4 - T h i s i 5 o i € n l o ' g e d v i c w o { i h . { i r s t
y o u , n e e d l o . N o i i c e r h e i e e d t e i s i n s e r t 6 d i n t l ' e c l o r h . T h i s i s r h d P r o P o rp l o ( a
ior rhe .""dle whilc ir is boi.9 rhreoded ,- in ihe clorh. B. tor. ro Ptocticc 'n

!-t

ry
PICTURENO. 5 - Fi'sr step ii
lrop6d ovc. tlc needl€ oad [.ld
 T ll trl FITENWAY SYS'ftrM lilge 17

This is o q,eorly cnlorqed dr"winq olthe looped end ol

V I S U A L G R ANMO . 5 -
threod being pushed lh,ough thc eye o{ tho needle.

ii;,'

l D*J,
[z;:a:.-:-\
J

o{ ihe
P I C T U R E N O . 6 - P u s h i . e i h e l o o P e de . d o { t h e r h t e o d r h r o o e hi h e e v e
 'Page
THE FRENWAY SYS'I'LM iB

\'

.t

P I C T U R E N O . 7 - T h i r s h o w s t h r e o dp u l l . d r h f o l s h r h . . y . of rhc necdls.

l)icturc,s Nos. 5, tj & 7 showing the nccdlc thrc'aclingprocess do not

'Ihis
sholv the n.edlc inserte..l ill lhe clolh. was done lo illuslrale more
cl{]arly the procedure. Ilo\\'ever, in practice and worl< aluays have the
needle il1 the cloth lvhen it is being thre:rded as s ilo\r'n in Visualgrams
Nos. , l and 5.
 .f IIE
F'RENWAY SYSTE M

If you did it easily the firsl 1i6o, or. even re filtir or el(.venLn, you
wer.r just lucky, so practjce awavl

Actually, a4 expert reweaver does Dot thread the ncedle untrl aftcr
he has woven il through the cloth; consequen y, you arc
to do likewise
f t ' o m n o B .o n , W h e n y o u f i r . s t 1 r v i l , . v o uw l l t r e a t i z c w l ] y s o
mlrch prxc-
tice in just threading thc necdlc was so v;rluilb1e.

Now that you have leafned io thread a lrcccllO thc prof(,ssion t w.y,
l(.i us r(,vicw thr- step outlin(,d in lhe Uxcrcise No. 1.

))ractice w(aving ovcr irltrcl thfeads with lhe rr)place|rrent lhreaL]s.

"Rcpl:rce" first 1wo thfeirds, then three threirds next to (,:1crr
orner
h( forc l)roccccling.

EXE RC I S EN O . 3

A FI]ITTHI]R STI' P

After' you hlve practiced weaving thr.eads over intact threacjs

rn Lnc
sample until ,you no longer make crrors, r e a d y f o r t h e
),ou:rr(- next
step.

Use the blunt (,nd of a nccdle to lift :r loop of a woof (cross) thread
allcl snip thc ]<ropwith the scissors. Lise the neecile to gently unr;rvel
thecut thread from the weave for a length of about one inch. icreaiter
this Llnweaving process will be called ,,teasing out.
"

Snip the thread again to get rid of the inch that has been teascu our.
 T IIE FRENWAY SYSTEM Page 20

You are ready to replace the poition of thread just snipped away
with a new thread of lhe same color. Do this by going over, under,
over, under, etc, the warp (length) thrcads in the gap along th€rline whcre
the woof thread was taken out, with your needle. Now thread your needle,
draw ii through and see whether the replacement thread takes the place
of the origin:rl one correctly.

Ilemove the replacement thread and repeat this practice step not less
than a dozen time s.

NOTE: This is :r most imporiant point l All wr)aving is donc on ttrc

"Right Sidc" of thc matcrial. Thc material is pinncd to the pillow s.J
th( "ltight Sidc" is facing yolr.

While weavin,j in a rel)lacornent thread in the woof (cross lhrcrd)

always leavc it slightly loosc, this mlkes easi('r the reweaving of the
warp whenever lhat is n( cessary. Whcnever you find ihat thc ncw woof
is ioo tight, Ioos.'n thc rcplac('rrrcnt thrcads gontly llnd indivj.luirlly
at orxr sid('with the twc.rzers.

Whcn y()u have thoroughly m:rstcred the technique of replacing 'rre

woof (cross threld, r'(mov( a on() inch portiorr of ihc ncxt ihrc:rrd bclow
th. first lncl rcpl:rcc th{ two thrcads in th{' srm(i wiLy. Do this ovcr and
ov.r. l,:ach tim(' you r0plirco r thr'('ad, study thc rcsults. 1 , 1 rs u f t ) i t
has the fight relationsbip lo lh(| woof (cross) th|cld rbove it.

Next, remove the next thread bclow lhe second and replace the
three thread gap until you can do it wiihout making a mistake,

Practice with four consecutive woof (cross) threads to replace and

then five. Learn to do this without making an error.
F
F .T
H E F R E N W A Y S Y S T I ]M I'age:l

F Remember: When you have more than one thread to replace, weavc
first, the thread lopmost, or farthesl from you; then do the threr.l just

F b e l o w i t , e t c . W I l e n t h e m a n u a l m e n t i o n s a d j a c c D tt h r e a d s , i t m L , a r ) s
h a v i n g t h i s s o f t o f I e l a t i o n s h i p t o e a c i o t h e r . / \ l r v a y s c c ) n s i d u rl l ) L ' -
thread just above the one you arc replacing as the guide thread.

lt I]E CAREFUI-I DO NOT PRACTICE THIIS!] S'I'!]I'S INCOITITI,J C'f L Y.

D O N O T D R I L L I N T H E W R O N G W A Y ' I ' O R I ] T Y V I ] A V T .L E A I T N ' f C )

F DO IT RICHT.

F ljeforc le:rrning anything rcalty new, you lre lo drill yoursclf next
in replacingone, two, three, lour, and five threads in gal)s, or bft':11<s,

l!
r)f :rbout 1-1/ 2 inches.

I when f)l)inA irr a d:lmaged length of I l/2 inch!,s - ('vr'nwhL'l fiv('

adj:rceni throads ijr.c out - is ^ot difficult lo d() uny l{)nger, nlake th(i

I
br(aks in ttrc \'()of (cross) threads about two inch{rs. Follow the s.rm()
l)roccdr.rrc as b.fore. Roplxce just one two inch woof thread firsl and
do it sev()ral timos; thcn replace two adjacent woof threads, rlso re-
IXating tho ex(ir'ciso rnany times; ncxl replace lhl.eo adjacent thr(:nds,

lI practicing as bcfo|c; then do four thrcads, and finilly, fivc.

wAItP ( L l , i N c ' , l ' ) T H I T E A D S M U S I t J H R T . T W O V H Nf O O .

I Inasmuch as most damage to garments affects thc warp (lcDgth)

thrpads as often as the woof, you D tst practice replacing w.rrp thr.ads

I i r s w e l l . D o t h i s l ) y u D p i n n i n gt h e c l o t h a n d r e p i n n i n g i t s o t b a t i h c w a r ' p
w i L Ll i e c r o s s w i s e o n t h e c u s h i o n . N o w p r a c t i c e r e w e a v i n g j u s t a r y o u
did before. Probably the threads you have to first trace, then rr-place,

I arc darker than those of the 1.!oof; therefore, you will learn how io
trace darker threads easily while you are improving your skill.

I
I
t
F THIJ FttENWAY S Y S T E M t'age 22

F
F E X E R C I SN
E O .4

F T H E " P R O I J L E M ' 'O F E X T R A 1 ' H I C K N E S S

F Replace bre.Lks in scvcral

lcarned,
adjacenl threeds in the wirv \,()\r hav{)
but begin to rcweave along the intact thr.,ads for a short ctrs,

F tancc befofe relching the damage and coniinue t() weave for a simil:rr
distancc after r.cplacing thc brokL-n threads. \ou will noticc r)ou Lnar
the "3oincd" area around th( daD)aAcd place will l:ave trvicr.,rs rDirrry

F lh.cads as beiorc ;rnd \,"itl, th,,refore, fc,rl thicker an(1rn()r.r ,)(Lr()

'fhc

T nexl steps explain how ih. rcplaccmcrlt th.e:rds irto :Lrcnorcfr

and how the {rxtrl thickness is mirdc inconsl)icuous.

I E X E R C I s EN O .5

I
L UAITNINC "DI I'IJING''
I
'fhe
t e c h n i q L r c o f d i p p i n g i n t , ' r ( , n c hI n v i s i t ) l ( , R ( . w u l l v i n g i s r h ( .
I lice of sticl<ing thc necdlt: through the cloth rncl raking a r.rther long
stitch - aboui l/2 inch for the cour.se matcriaL .,n which you ar.(.t)r.!Lc-
tr.irc

ticing - before commencing to reweave, and till{ing a similar. srrlcD

I after you have Iewoven past th(,d.tmaged area. Visu:llgram {j i1lus_
Lratcs dippingj sL-r' following pag-,

I
I
T
I
t
-
 THE FITENWAY SYS'I'LM l 'ag. :l:l

V I S U A L G R A MN O . 5 - T h i s i l l u l t r o r e 3 d i p p i n e . N o r i c e h o w r h 6 n e e d l e i : i n -
s e r r e d u n d e rt h e c l o t h f o r o d i l l o n < . h c r c o { s e v e n t h r e o d sb . { o r e d c f u d l w . o v i n g
i s b e g o n . T f i e d i p p i n g i . b . i * ! . n t h . d o r h c n e dt h r e o d s .

A l w r ! s d i t ) r r l o u g 1 i 1 ( L i n . ( ) f 1 . h ol h r ( , i i d w h i c l t i s l ) r ' ( ) l { c n . I f y o u , l o r L ' l
l i ( e t ) l l r ( ( l i t ) s r ) r a l i n ( \ { i 1 l r y o u r r \ ' \ r ' e r v i r ! 1 , _ v ( ) u i r r (c o r t r i n l o g { t c o
tuscd ln(l mrLk. r mistal<c in your'wofk.

N ( ) l ' l i : Y o u i n L r s t s t i r r t 1 1( l L l ) [ , ' r t r ' l ) l a c i r l g 1 1s ( ' c ( ) n d t h r ( ] . r ( l . i u s t i l

l i t t l e i ; r r l h c r ; r w a y l r o m t h , : d i L m i r c rr l t ) l : r c o t h : l n y o u h r d l , ) i ( ) . l h ( f L l ' s t
llrl(,rd- I'lris mcrns, rlso, ihxt thr'(lit, ()n thc olh('r sidu ()f thc (li,rrlirA.
\ i i l l l x ' f i r r t h e r a w r - v f r , : , r n t h ! c l i r r . r j t , r 1 l r . L f , ' . h r( l i l ) i r l ) r ) \ 1 ,i t . L i i * i ' i . l
l h i d i l , s f o f t h c t h i r ( l r ' ( ' p l i r c e n r , - n i r h r c j r ( l n 1 L r s 1l ) c t r r r l h L : r ' f l ' o r ) ) t h r
d . r r r r a g r . di L r ' € ' el h a r r t h e d i l ) s f ( ) r ' r J r ' . { c , ) r ) ( 1 . I l ( ^ " ' c ' v c r , l h , ' ( l i l ) s t L , I r l l
f()!r'lh r'{ placonrenL arr 1o l\, lh(' s:rrir, dislanc( rv,u} a< wrrL' thL ,lil)s
for lh| firsl roplrrccnreul. AsvoLr uilI l( arn shorlly, th(' sirli1'sl't,t i,r{
L . f t h e d i p s i s c . r u s e d b y s r r i r s r , t ) t ) i r ) g( ) f l r l c . " i ( ) i r 1 i n g s " .

I'r.Lcticc dipl)ing Llntil )ou clo ri :rccllralcly rlrd aLrlomaticall-v.

 'fIIII lraec 24
Ir ITI]NW A Y S Y S ' f H M

EXERCISN
E O .6

LIJAITNIN(;'fO MAKIi ".JOININC]S''

'lhc
1('chni(ltr(i foi s('cLrril.Ig sufficrcnt anchorrrgri with()ul h:rving l()()
rnuch brrlk is csllc(l "Joining".

l ) i L r n i r g oo n ( . w ( J o i ( c r ( , s s ) t h r ' o a ( 1 . w i l h y o u r t w c o z c r s , I ) u l l L r p ( ' a c h
( nd of lhc clanlrg(d throir(l irnd ioirs(, il. out I'ast lwo of lhc warl) (lcnglh)
thft)itds. Ily using lhc lwce z{ rs, yoLr irvoid frrying ibo Lhr('.rdcnds irs
you arc likcly l() do it vou lrv t,) grrst) lh( rn wiih )oLrr fingcrnails.

I'r;rclic(, making.i()inings wl)ik ropbcing thc singlc thrcird. l)o this

by nlakinA :r dip arxl slrrrting to rrwe:rvc llong thc inilcl. l)()tli(m ()l th(
tllrcird b()j[g rlil)];rcccl, comm()ncing lo |r'wcavc obout the distrrnc('of
fivc w:Lrp (fcllgth) thre:'ds bt fore rcrtching l.ho t)oint wh( r( ()n( clld lras
b({nlcrs(d oul. Conlinlro to w(rtv( :rlong lhc lino of thcrditmrgo, t)as1
llrc ot)r(r l)rokcn ( nd, rnd on rl()ng tho intrcl lx)fii()n for thc disllncc o[
fivc' w:rrP thrcirds or thilt sid(:. Ihcn mrl(( r final dip. VisuiLlgraln ?
shows tll('l)roc( ss.

VISUALGRA}N NO. 7 T h i s s h o w s r h e d o m o g e di h r e o d i . o s e d
menrrhreodhos beenw o v c n i n . T h e g l o c e * h e r e r h e s e r w o
s.ther is rhe ioini.s.
tl
it
i. THE FRENWAY S YS'f -E]
M Page 25

F
it Practicethe
five times.
procedure ofweaving and joiningthe on!. thread twenty-
Be sure that you are doing it correctly. Stay on the proper

ilr line when reweaving. Don't be in a hurry to go on to the next step until
you have perfected this one, or the next will only confuse yoll.

T Next, rpplace two adJaceni threads. This requires that the ends of
the sccond damagcd threed each bc tc.rscd out past foLLr warp (length)

F thrc^ds. Rut you will overlap your rcweaving on both sides of the da-
magcd place by using the sanlc nlethod as you used bcfore. Rcmember
thalthedip for the second thread begins farther away from lhc dilmage.

t Rcpcat this cxercisc a dozen timcs.

I When r-.ou have mastcred the r.eplacement of two a.ljocedt trrrcaus,

learr) to do it corrcctly for lbre€) adjacent threads. 'fhis
r-cquires th:r1

r
tbo onds of lhu lhird broken thread bp tcirsed ou1 l)ast scvpn warp
(]englh) thr('itds. When rc'w.'aving, rl() s() ov('t. lho intacl porlioDs of th()
thr(ad for dist nces of fiv. warp thr(:uds as llefor('. Now you can scc
thc stair:jt(,p iLrrangcmcnt of ttre Joinings. 'l'his distritrutes thc bulk of

II th(. overlapf)ing threads in sLrch .1 way that tho doubl(. thickness is not
all local('d righl ncxi to th() damagcd arca.Visualgr.rml,followingp:rg.)
shows th(' stairslepping.

I ) o l h i s r o w c a v i n g c x c r c i s c o v ! - r a n d o v e r . D o n o t s p ( , ( , dh e r c . 'lhis

I is thc crux of your profession. Learn it woll.

 THE ITHENWA\ SYSTEM Page 26

REPLACEMENT Tl1READS
DIP B R OK E N
THREADS

V I S U A L G R A MN O . 8 - T h i s s h o w s " s r o i r i r c p p i n g " aiionenonr o{ loinlie ond

d i p p i n g . N o r e l h c 1 6 o s i n go r t i s s t d i r 3 i e p p 6 d q l s o .

(, \'oLr(lo no{
ll lhL' rLrrnbi I of thr'( lds y()Lrmusl r'r'])iril' ixct'r'ils l])r(
lx.('(11()|eilsl'oLll|]n]bf()|i(|Ilell(ls(JIthc|()L1r||rl'll1'('ll(ll)(]Jolr(lnl()i'tIlhtLn
r\{o wirrl) (lorrgllr) thr(r:r(ls, ln olh('r wor'(ls, IlIr( rrds 4,5, rrntl {j !('illllav(
joinings l o c i r l ( ( l i n L h r i s r l m ( ' \ r , ' l y i h r r 1 . l x '. i o i n i l r g s o f l h r ( l ( l s 1 ' 2 ' l n d i J
irrL loc;rlcd- Scc Visullgrlrm 11, follc)wing I)rrg('.
 I'iIL !'IiLN\\.\\ SYS I LM l'agc 2?

V I S U A L G R A MN O . 9

hrl. llr( L r(lri,l llr( i()Lrllr rlr'( ir.l liu t,r s r\!o r!r'fJi
r l l | L . r ( l : . , , r , , 1 r l r i r i l l r ( ( r ) L l ! , ( ) lI l r ( l i t l l r I l r ' ( r L { l ()Lrrl)iLSr Lr)ilr'\!iLr'l)
llril llt(, rrlls,)llll(.sirll)llrr(.ir(l o r J,,isl sin wr,,l,

l ' r ' r c l i c r t , r o t r . r l . ! c \ v ( t r v i r r gr r , l r l r l r i r r l t J , , r i l l ! t s f , ) r ' r l . , l ] r j t ( ( l I ) l r c , s

L r t ) 1 (: )i \ I i ) r ( i r ( l s w i ( l ( . l ' r i r c l i c L l l l | r s r ( w { i L v i r i t 1 . l r (r, ^i,u l ) ( l , r g l l r ) l h r i i r ( l s
ii:, $i.ll irr rlr( \No()i (L-r',)ss). I'l,||IicL''hi.r,.\(.r'ci\(- nrrJr\ rirnris- this
ii nrl,jl i r r rl ) , I r ' r i r r l .
 THE FRHNWAY SYSTEM PaAc 28

iit:',

PICTURE NO. 7-A . f h i s s h o w 3 i h r c e i h r e o d 5 w o v € n i n . N o t i c e s t o i e s t e p p i n s

of reored o!r rhreodr. Tfti3 ii tft. 'ight 3id. oI rlte ndre.i.l.

P I C T U R E N O . 7 - B . T h i s s h o w s r h e w t o n g s i d e o f i h e 5 d m ew o r k d s i n P i . t u ' e
N 0 . 7 - 4 , N o r i c eo 9 o i . i h e i r o i r s i . p p i n g o f r h € d i p 3 .
 THE FRENWAY SYST!]M Page 29

EX E R C I S E
N O .7

C L I ] A N W U A V I N GI S E S S U N T I A L .

ODe of the hardest things to learn to do is "clean" weaving. This

means the art of using your leedle so skiiifully that you do not pick up
any parl of the woof (cross) thread which you may be following or run
through ;rny fibers of the warp (length) threads as you weave. When you
do not weave "clean", vou fray and weaken the threads of the clo1h,
(.specially wheo you attcmpt to pull the .epl:rcenlont th|eads into pusi-
Lion. You rnay evcn br( Jk some previously undamaged threads,

Therc is lbsoLutcly no othe. way to Le:rrn to do "clean'weaving Uc-

'fhe
sidcs lots of prirctice, eyes musl be traincdt() sec the weave read-
'l'he ()ne has
iiy. fingers musl learn lo m:rnipulalc the ner'dle flexibly.
lo gr'l lhL' "fc( 1" of il.

E X E R C I SN
E O ,8

r ; l l ' f l N ( i I a l l )u t t . ( X ) S hl : N l ) S .

Now thal yolr hav€r leirrned boih dipping and joining, youare reacly 1o
ir'ern hL:w to rL'movc' the ends ofthe original .rnd r('placcI)]ent threads
lr ,|lr 'h ',.i, \lIt [.,c. of lr,. c]oth.

As soon as you have replaced alL of the damagcd threads goiag in

oDt- drr'(,ctiorL- crosswise or lenglhwise, you will want to get the ends
of thedamagcd threads out oi the way in order for you to s.je your work
rnore clea.ly whcn you replace the danagcd threads going in the op-
posilc dirL'ction. You do this bY snipping each end quite close to the
sur'face as )oLL hold th( thread stightly taut rvith thc thLLnlb-nailo{ the
other hand, See pictur'.j B :rnd Visualgram 10.
 THE FRENWAY SYSTEM Page 30

V I S U A L G R I M N O . 1 0 . A n c n l o r s c dv i e * o f r h . o c t u d l r r l p p t t r e o l l o { i h .

M o s l o f t b e i i ) r 1 L ?t h
, (' snippedend will spring bacK.rnd bury ilself in
thc cloth, or spring out on the other side. If il does not, it should be
pushed through to the under side with the nccdle soit will not show.

When a damaged area has been rcwoven in boih dircctions and the
ends of ihe original, broken threads have been snipped in the rnanner
jusl described, you mDsl Dow snip the ends of the repl)cemcnt tlrreads
at the beginning of the tirst dip and at the end of the s.rcond dilr. See
picturc #9, on page 32. You have waited to do this last in order to
have somL.thing to grasp rcadily whenever you Deeded to tighten, or
otherwise adJust, the woof (cross) threads while you were reweaving
the warp.

It is wise to pull each thread end slightly as you snip it, just as you
did with the previous set. If the snipped end does not spring back to
the under side, you must work il through so that it does not show on the
risht side.
 I 'H I ] I , ' I I L \ W A Y S Y S T I ] M Prgc :lt

Y' '-tJ ?
..
: ::.&*l

ih'eods Notice
PICTURE NO.8 ' Snippine ihe end! oi rhe teosed our (dohqeed)
the posruc o{ ihe ho.ds ond.cisso'3.
 II{E FRENWAY SYST!]M Page 32

?
.[

P T C T U R EN O , 9 - T h i s s h o w s t h e d o m o s ec o n p l e r e l y ' e w o v e n . T h e t e o l e d o u f
t h r e o d e n d s h c v e b e c n s n i p p e d . N o w r h . e i d s o t r h e r e P l o c e n € n rt h t e o d s d r .
r e o d yr o b e 3 n i p p . d o r r h e r i p s .
 THE FRLNWAY SYSTEM Page 33

E X E R CI S EN O . 9

R E W E A V I N GW H E N I ] O T H W O O F A N D W A R P A R E G O N E

When a daDaged place is a holr, it means lhal b(nh \varl) and uoof
arc gon( in that sl)ot. You should always rewr.:rvL 1b( \'oof iir'st, thcn
tufn the cLoth or garn)enl irl order to roplace th(,\r!'arli.\'h('nihlrdanr_
ag(:d t)lnce is actually a hole, the ncw woofwhich l()Lr hirv(,Jusl pui in
l i e s a c r o s s t h e h o l ( ) , w a i t i n g f o r l h c w a r p l o b € -w
' ov( n thr'(,ugh il.

'TO
ALWAYS MAKtr CEII'IAIN, WH!]N I'RFJI)AIIINC I.'IX A DAM-
'f()t'M()S
AGED Pj-ACE, rHAT Y()tI S TART WI rtI fHr,r r t)AMACHI)
TIIIIEAD. Do not leave a parlially damagr]d lhread 1o caus( furlhcr
trouble al. a later lim€r. It helps, cspccially fo-r cl,nh wil.h iin( thr'('iL(ls,
to pull thf inlacl thread nenrest th(' lop of thL d|lmi){('d i]roa a liltl(
t i g h t l y w i t h ( h e t w c ( . z c r s i n o r d e r t ( ) s ( , i - -i l c I a r l ] rrnli to usc )1 a5 ir
gL'id(i. It can be loos('ncd as soon :rs you bcgirl r(w(irving tx!low l)y
stretching lhc cloth :r bii with thc fingcriips. D ( ) r r ( ) t( j v ( r L ( . a v ( )i t t i g h l
for il would m:rr your work.

Cut it*'ay 1.he damaged pollions of origir.rl thr('a(ls in a dornlgcd

arca so thcy will not obscure yDur vision as you rewt-':tv(,, If lofl ihcr(
they may causc you to nlako DistakL.s. You should cIiI) tbem Loaving
ends aboul l/tj inch exter)ding into thc hole. l'his wjll guide you whon
y()u r.pl:rce !he brokcn threads and you will thus b( sur(.to get e:rcll
thrcad in its p.oper placc. Sc. Visualgram #11.
 f I ,- l'ltlNWAf SYS lFlNl Irag(,:14

N O . l l - T h i s s h o w sh o w
VI5UALGRAM rh. cnds o{ the damogcd ihreods exronJ

I . ' ( ) r I ) r ' l c l r c ( ' , ( l i rr n i r { ( l ) ( ) r l r i r u , r r r t ) l l r r ' ( i r ( l i r n ( l i r $ ' ( ) o f l l r r ' ( , r ( l i r 1 l h c

-
s i l m ( i I ) ( ) r D l s ( ) n l c w n ( f o r l l 1 r l , : , i ' r n l ) r ( ] r ( ) u i r f t ' t r s r r r l ll 0 | l ( ' a l . n i t ) g . l t ( )
w c a v ( b o l h i h t ' { r ( l s c ( ) r ' f ( c l 1 1 . l ) 1 )l h i s , i g l r l l i | r ( : i .

N('x1, (lirr)aAL rhf(, l l rr \ ' i , , 1 :

l ( i l s 1 s r x t r rn ( ' : i .

Danlg| six l llr'(:rds (,rclr uirv. lt(w( irvc clch srx rrs l\!() s( ls irs
Y()1h 1a v c a L r { i l c i ) I t : : r I d c t l . M i r l < r ' l h ( d i J ) : r r l r ( l. , ) i l r i r I g : c o t r { c l L Y . I ' r l c -
I i c r . u n l i l y o u c a r l r { . \ , , ' r ' ; r v ( s u ( : h ( l i L m i r g ( J ) L i r ' f c( l l Y

Finally, itnlrro\'( y.)ur skrlt l)\ IL$(,rvin( clirtnlqi (l ir('as Lrp l() lj/'l
inch l!idc iD thc coiLrsL cl'rr11.
 ]]HE FRENWAY S Y S ' I E M Page 35

DON"T PRACTICE UNDEIT EXTREMF] TENSION

As you probably have learned by now, you do not improve your skill
when you have worked loo long and too intensely. You find yoursclf
nTakingmore mislakes than usual. It is better to stop practicing en-
tirely for awhile and to try to relax. If you are working on some rather
difficutt sdmplc oi garmerrt, you )nay b.r abl€rto get ovcr your ir'nseness
b y g o i n g b l r c k t o s o m e s i r n p l e r s t e p i | ( h e r e r v e : r v i n gp r o c ( ) s s .

Specialmention is made abouttakingit slou'and lakingil easy ai this

point inthe manual because you are now ready to praclice on one-and-
one weaves made of finr'r threads, lirst of medium weight, (Sample
No. 2, ) iben of th(- Iighiest wcigr,r,

GE'I' ACCUS'TOM}|D'IO FINER'THREADS.

Arrange the various sampics that you havc on hand of simple, baskt,t-
weaves according to the fineness oi ibe lhreads. Somc have been sup-
plicd with the matual; you car p.ocur..- olhers. Startin( with the co^rs-
(ist weavc, practicc on each santple until youhave rnastcred it. Finally,
you will master the one with the finest ihread, which will probably be a
iropical worsted. Do not attempl to rq'rrg.r. a damaged place larger
than the lip of a pencil in cloth of very fine thread.

l J o n o i e x p e c t t o a c q u i r e r e a l s k i l l i n j L r s ta f e w w e e k s . K . e p p a t i e n t .
Keep practicing, When you have become really good, the skill you have
acquired will stick with you. You can be proud of it.
 THFJ t.'RLNWAY SYS'f Il I\1 |age 3ij

EXERCTSE
NO.l0

J T I , A S ' f ' I ' O D O A I T E A I ,I T ! ] W L A V I N CJ O I ] .

A C H A N C I .A

Afte r alL the practice you have had, you should be al.le to ar'$c av(l
a <larnag(.1 fil irc(' i n a r c g u l a r g 3 r r n e n l i f t h a t g i r r r n ( n l h a s a s i l r l t ) J . ,
rJasr<(r 1!o:rv(..

l'iIsl, y ( ) u r r - t u s lb ! , l ( , 1 i n o n a l r a d e s ( , c r ( r : t i x c e l ) t L r a . ( . c : r s e s ,
J ( ) L r g ( t l h r ( ' a d l o r c w c a v o a d a m a g e d t ) i : r c ( ' f r ( r r n h i d c l ( r n l ) l r 1 1s o f t h r .
garnrenl itself, from sorl]c plac( wher{r lho appLrr:rncc iuxl slr(ntjlh ()f
1 l ) Lgi .rn)( ni is nol harm(rLi in ;rnr uity.

l,or insl:trlcr', in ord('r to r(weav(' il (lilmag{ cl })L:rct iD 1r{)us(,rs,

rrk(, thrr i(ls f.ortr ih( 1,()r!oIIo l i . n o p ( n { . d c L i f t f . r r r ' r , r c l i v i r r gr h ( , v ( ) ( ) i
(cross) lllrr'n{ls. lake thr'(,:rds fronl lh(.widesl lrous(r s(,irnr, (t()l{n )
ih(. cuff, fof r('t)lilcing waI.l) (L,nglh) lhrlr:rds. When )ou ot)cn i cLrff,
()t)r,r i1 fr,)m ()DLs(,anr 1o lh(, oth( r. Ir, o co:ri {laDragc thc sli,(,v,,(rr.1h(,
srclu s{ rnrs arc the bL'st i)lrc(.s to g0l vour thrr'a..ls. ()f cours,j, .liu -
ag( d woof lh.( ir(ls musi L{ foplaccd wilh woof thrcads and darlirg( (lulr.l)
lhr'e:rds nrusl b{ replaccd wilh wrrrp tllrt r(ls - Cnutiod: }ivc though on
somc' rri:lIrii,ls $()oi iin(l wart) thrclds n)aJ lr)oj(ih(, si,r | fllllY Ait.ti
NOf. l ' i c i u r e , l ( l s h o ! , ,s i h r c l r l s b c i n g p u l l ( , ( 1 f r o r n b o o m o f : , 1 ( , c v ( l
!vh(rfc Iining has b( ( n ot)encd. Scc foll()wi|g t)ag(..
 r I t Fl i\\\'AY SYSIlrN'r i'rqe 3?

N O . l 0 - T h r e o d s b e i n s p u l l e d { r o o b o r i o mo { s l e e v e w h e ' e l i n i n s h d s
PICTURE
 IHFJ FRENWAY SYS'|EM Page 38

It will require experience to learn how to estimate readily how many

threads are needed for a repair job. A small damaged place u'ill not
need as many replacement threads as a large damage.

AIso, when taking threads from a sealn, be sure the cloth has been
cut straight enoughfor you to obtain threads of usable length without un-
raveling the garrnent past a seam and marring or weakening the gar-
ment. Evely garment usually has one seam which is wider lhan every
other seem, so get threads from that one,

You may receive a garmeot that has had a lot of generat wear. when
you reweave a damaged place with threads from a hidden part of the gar-
ment, which has had much less wear, the "newer'threads make the
damagcd area somewhat thicker. You can remedy this partly by pull-
ing each thread that you are going to use for replacement between the
thumb and forefinger to get the nap off. Then it willnot contrast quite so
much with the worn threads around the damaged place. As a matter
of fact, the contrast will rarely be noticed by anyone except you and
the customer, and after a few days of wear, neither of you will be able
to locate the rewoven place, unless you look on the wrong side ofthe
garment to find the ends of the thieads.

MARK THE SPOT

Since most of the reweaving you do - if you have done it correctly,

will not show, mark the damaged area with a red thread. This will tell
anyone pressing the garment where the damage was and will assist the
customer in locating ihe spot he wanted rcwoven. After it has served
its purposes, the red thread can be removed. See Picture #11 on fol-
lowing page.
l. 'IHE FITENWAY SYSTI'M Page 39

F
F
F
F
F
F
l.
F
F
F
F
t
I
P I C T U R EN O . I I All rhrcod.nds hove bcen 3nipp.d d.d rh.
thrcod ro nork thc ipot ot {orn.f domos..
 1 ' H F ;I . - R E N W A YS Y S ' |t JM Irage 40

E X E R C I SNEO .I I

REWEAVING A TWO-AND_TWO WEAVE

Now thai you have had thc thrill of actually reweaving som(,l)ocly,s
oamagco garment and havL, demonstrnlcd that you
can d() go,^r r,()r.ri,
you arc read.y to loarn how to ftrl).rir.cloth with .r
simplc t;o-irn(l_t$o
wcave. Samplr' No, 4 is of that weave.

I-et's gel one p()int cl('ar first. Whcn yoLr rcird ab()ul w(,,,\,urt l,r
books, you will g{r th€j inrpr(-ssion that .ny two-rnd-rwo
u , L . i r v ( .L s i r
t w i l l w e a v e . I I o w e v c r , r e w € _ , a v e r sd o n o l c a l l a n y i w o - a n c l - t w o
w ( . i , \ . ( .i r
twill unl('ss th(' weave procluces a cl(,fjnilc ( , r n o f d i n g ( ) n a l
Dr lijx.s r)r.
r.rdges, which are l(nown as twills.

Whal is bcing dcscribcd hcr.. is th., silnpl(. rwo_and_rwo .J

w ( , : r v e. h|
woof (cross) thrcads go undcr lwowart) (tength) thr(,acts,
th(,n,)v(,r Irc
n/rxf lwo, th.'n undfr tho f(tlowing tw!), thr.n ov{,r thc- fouith
1 ) . 1 i r . (, . r c .
You c:lD see this b('st by pulling awry lh(, lasl thread al lhc tol)
or lrot,
totn of your sarnpl(, nolinA the wL,ave as you clo so.

Notice how Ihe very next thr(,acl is wovcn. Il follows lhc slDr(.
rwi)
a n c l - t w c rp a t l e j r n , b u t y o u w i l l n o r i c ( , ! v h l 1 i s c a l l o ( l I \ , o A r c s s i ( ) r r .
l.h(,
first woof thread siarted across bJ going under lwo $,.:rrl)
t h r . r , ; r ( t s ,t h r l
woof thrc.td Just bel()w it has bccn strrric.j across by going
0v|r onL.,
one !-afp thread bcfore bcing pLrt unrlcr twowarp thrc:rds. I.hen, th(,
third woof thrcad just below the second lhread starts
oul by goi,rg !,v,,r
1wo warp thl'eads. fhe nexl lvoof thr.ad corn|n(,nc. s by going
iirrdet. o|le
warp thiead before going over the n.,xt two. Ihe v(,ry next
woof ihread
will start the sequencc all ovcr again. It will begin by going
unclu,r rwo,
Stuciy Visualgram No. l2 orl Fotlowing page.

After you have tarniliarized yourself lvith the lwo_an(j-tw()

wervr,
commence practicing reweaving by taking thc same steps .rs you clicl in
learnlng reweaving the basket weave.
 s YS Ii,iM I)egc 4l

UpperRisht

VISUALGRAM NO. 12 S r u d y t h i s diog'dm very core{ully. O n e r h r e o do r o r i m e .

Srqrror ihe upperrighi h o n d c o h e r wo'kinq ro rhe lefr.
 'T
III' I.'It],NlVAY SYS I'LI\'I 1 ' . r g c4 2

E X E R C I SNEO .1 2

l . ' i r s r , l r l c e l h ( . . r ( . . r v c o f n s i n g l ( ' 1 . , r ( ) ot fh r ( ) r d $ ' i l h . u[ilrr(,adcd

r x ' c ( l l ( . . I ) o l h i s i i v ( , i i n r c s . S ( , c o n d , l r a c e l l l ( , w c i ] v ( s ( ) 1l 1 v o l h r c a d s ,
()lI( rurrr)idq Jrrsl l)( 1,)\vi1r(' olhef. 'lhcr lrac(,
thr. w()irv{.\ of thr('c ar)d
o t f o L r r \ L r c h l h r e i r ( l s . l ) o ( , r c h o f 1 b ( ' s ( s l c l , 5 s , . ! , ( , r 1 1l i n r ( s .

I t ( , t ! , , 1 1t h ( c \ ! i r c r : i c r l l l h ( : \ 1 i J t h r { ) u g h r i t h l l r r ( , i r ( l { r d ( ( , d l ( s . I l , ( .
m(,nrl)cr lhri only 1)raclic(' \riLL ( limin;rl( rnislirl(cs and incr('itsc )orrr
s t ) ( , (( l r l n r l s l { i 1 1 . I n 1 . 1 ) i si y t J i , o f w ( i r \ ' ( i 1 j s v ( , r ' . , ( ' l s y 1 i ) g o i 1 | r ( l o rr ) r o v { r
o I h , , r ) r ' 1 ! n r I t l l l 1 r , l , , r r l o t ) i c k L r t )1 ( ) ( )n r i , r ) , , , r ' l l ) s l i l ) ( ) l t r l r ( , l i r , r ) i '
r h ( . l l r ' ( . r ( l l ! , i n g f ( ' 1 1 , , \ , . ( 1 f, o r l h . ' ( l L i r q ( , ; r l t , : , 1 1 ( . r nt ) l l - \ ' s r I i c k : o n , ) n , ' : .

\ ( i x t , J , L r l lo L r l ,. r r { w o o f t h | ! r { 1 . r l r o u l .: l / 2 | r c h c s l ( ) r ] i ti n l h o c { n r I r
L ) f l l ) ' j : i l n ) l r , ; ) r ) r l t ) r ' i r c l i c , 1 r . J ) l r j c j , r {i l \ i 1 h , ) L r lr ) v ( } l r l , l ) i r r r l l ) ( . i n ! j , . : 1
J l ( ) r 1r ( , r t : . ) i t h e ( ) l ( l 1 l r r , , r L (\l' | i t l r l l r r , r L ( ' wl l ) r ' ( . : r ( 1 .

W l ) r ' r v o L r c i t n ( 1 , )l h r t u ' ( 1 1 , l ) u l l o u l 1 \ | ( ) r , , { , r c w o ( ) i 1 h r ( ' : r ( l s . i L r s ll ) ( . -

l()$' rl), lii sr ()n( rr)(i l)rrclic( r ( l ) l r c i r r f r , l l l l r ' ( , . l ) o r ( , 1 l J c u t ) s rI r f
r l r i : l r r ' d \ l i ( o l r , , I | r r c h h r | d , r l ] r i l | r y ( ) 1 r| L : L l i : , ( ( { i t c ( ' r { l { l l , ( . . I i r ( , u [ ! l
1 ( . n s { : r l ) ( , u lv ( ) u r r n i r l r l i ( s , g o l r : r c k l o \ ! ( ) r ' l i ( ' n s i m t ) l ( b r s k ( , 1 \ r c a \ ' ( , s
'l
u n l i l J o r r r ( , r ( ) l r x ( ( l c [ o l r g h 1 ( )l r y l ] r L ' n c l ! : k i l l : r g l i n . hc rtrost cx-
JX,rirncrrl \|( rvcrs ofl(.n ( l ( ) this

'1ft.r jou hr!, mnslfrcd l h { r ( l ) l . c ( I l r ( . n t ( ) f r v ( ) ( ) ft l l r ( . . ( l s , c h : r n g u

th('l)osition of th. sanrplo on th(. cushion aDd I)raclicc raplacing warp

!.'in.rll),, danagc ()n(, 1vo()f rnd oDe warp lhrf'ail al the sam, poiDi in
'l'he
the sall1plc and praclicc rclveir! ing them. s:rrne lnethod of dipping
and j o i n i n g is useLllhat you alrcady havt lcarncd. Also, snip the encts
of ihc dalnaged and rcpl.rcenr.nt lhreads thc way you have been taught.
Repeal the Process sL\ tlmes
 THLJ FRENWAY S \ S T E M Page43

l'raclicc r(-pairillg darllaqc 1D1u'ow()of aDd two uarp thrcads. Iher)

do it for threc of each lying togethcr. Rcmernbe r lhe stairslep ar
rangemcnl of the dips and joinings!

Itewervu dilrrlagc. thaf is s i x t h r ( a d s w i c i e ( i r c h w i t y i n o r d c r t o f i x

in your mind the dipping and Joining technique you havc l()arned. l)o it
sever:rl times.

Samples Nos. 5 and [i arc :rls() two-and-two w( aves on which yoLr

'Ihey
arc i.o practice. hav() fincr thrcads than Sitmnlc No. .1,

Irr ordcr lo noiicc how you irnprot( ir, spcrecai s you prrcticc, tir {
yoursclf on thc rcplacement of thrcads corroctly! th(n on the aclual
iL)wcaving of ir d:rrnagcd area lhreo threads wid.:. The rnore you pr;rc-
iicc th() fastfr you br'come.

tly this tirrlc you aro probably noLicing lhe weaves ot p(opl(s'
clothing .rs thcy sland near you. lt is good praclice to iry to detorminLl
whitt thc wL,aves arr'.

A l t e r y o r h o v e q o i n e d e r p e r i e n c c i n t h i s p r o c c d u ? . ,( D O N O T r r y b e f o r . ) ,
y o u w i l l f i n d t h o t t h e t i . s t d o m o g c dr h r e o dc o n h c l i f r e d u p - n o r e o s i n q ; u r - t h e n
t h o r t h r e a d r . p l o c e d ; t h e s e c o n d d o m o g e dt h r e o d r e o s c j o u t o n . o r r * o r h r e o d s
o n d t h e t h i r d t h r e o dl e o s c d o u t o n l y o n e o r t v . o h o r e t h r e o d s , T h i s w i l l s q v e v o u
t i m c i n r e p c o v i n g . D o n o t o l e m p t t l i s o n t i l y o u h o v e h o d c o n s i d e r o b l ee x p e r .
i e n c e . Y o u c o n l o s e t r o c k o f w f i i c h t f t r e o dt o u q r e r c p l d c i n g u n l c s s y o v h o v e
t r c i n e d y o u r s e l f i n k n o w i n g o n df o l l o w i n g p o . r n s . D o j u s r o s i n s t r u c t e d ,T h i s
lime soving hinl is Ior your benelir -- it is iok.n hom our yeors of exDerience.
D o n o l o t t e m p tt o u s e t h i s m e t h o du n r i l y o u k n o w y o u r w e c v i n q .
 THE FRENWAY SYSl'EM Page 44

EXERCISE
NO.13

LEARNING MORE COMPLEX WEAVES

By now you realize how essential it is to master slep-by-step the

technique of reweaving each new pattern and to practice again and a-
gain. Since this is so, you will not be told from norr on what the steps
are, for you already know them by heart. How much you practice each
stcp from now on will be up to you, but remember; It takes more prac-
tice to master fancy weaves, not less. And you are lext to familia-
rize yourself with weaves which are more complex than simple baskct
and two'and -two weave s.

It is at this stage that the real fun cornes in- It is fascinating to

see the endless variations in design of fabrics madc possible by vary'
ing thr' weave, the color scheme, and the sizes of threads. Yet, all y()u
must do is follow the pattern of the cloth you are reweaving until you
k[ow how it is woven. In order to discover this pattern, you must
"count out" the weave of several threads, one just below tho other, for
some vcry fancy weavcs involve changes in a long serics of thrcads,

COUNTING OUT

To determine a \rreave, fastcn the sample fir-mly 1o th(] pillow at one

end in order to have both hands free for counting out the pattern. !lx-
amine the threads at the edge of the sample. Using a needle, loosen
about three of the outermost woof threads and remove them from the
weave. This 'will leave exposed ends of the warp threacis that are Iong
elotrgh for you to turD back in counting.

Choose a point along the first woof thread left in the sample where
it is going over one or more warp threads. Wrlte down how many ii is
passing over. Next, determine how many warp threads it is passing
I
IHT, FRIINWAY SYS,THM Pagc 45

under and write down that number. Using a needle or the twcezcrs to
separatc the threads is hclpful while trying to coLlnt. Keep going along
thc same woof Lhiead, noting and writing down th('weave until you arc
sure lhat you havc a picture of the total weave patlcrn. It is ecsier lo
counl. lhc threads being passed underif you lurn each one doivn anLi hold
it with your thumbnait, counting ns you go. Sce Visu:rlgram #l:l on lht.
fotlowing poge. IJc surc to writc down each stel,. Do this for tlxr rtoxl
four or fivc woof thredds below the first onc, until you arc ccrliun ihrt
you hitvc recordcd the cntire weitvc psttcrn. When yoLrb('gin to count
r'irch Iin(i, b(gin directly below the point where Jou bcgrrn coLlnrDr{ ()Lrt
th(' fit'st Linc, for thjs will enable you io visualiz. lhc l)rogr('ssi,,n r)r)r'u
r{':rdil}.

A simplo two rlnd-two weavc is writtcn, LI2, 02, ll2, 02, ll-,, 02,
otr:., for thc first threird: O1, U2, 02, tJ2, C)2, LI2, otc., for the sL.cond
lhlLrud: fol] thc tlrird, 02, U2, 02, U2, (J2, U2, ctc.;for thc f()urlh,
Ul, o2, tl2, ()2, II2, ()tc. Iror lhc fifth, ll2, ()2, U2, 02, U!,, 02,
r ' l t . l J y t h u s c o u r ) l i u g o u l ; r l ( x ) Af i v f t h r c r i r l s , y o u o l ) l i r i n c o m l ) l c 1 ( l i r ) o \ r ' -
L('dg(.of1hc fulL llrogression of th('sinrlrlc two-iin(l-two wcirvc- Ydl knr)w
by now thirt this is v()ry inportitnt in strlrting corr{rclly lny r(w('irving
you ar'('clorng.

Just as oflcn you will find Lhat a simple two-and-two wcave will bf as
follows: for the first thread, startiDg under two ihrna.ls, lJ2' /.J2, U2,
t)2, U2, C)2, etc. torthesecond threrl itwill be Ul, 02, r-Jl, ()2, IJ2,
()2, eic. F-or the third thread iL wilt be 02, u2, <r2, u2, 02, u2, ctc.
l'or the fourthlhreadit will be 01, U2, 02, U2, 02, U2, ()2, etc. For
lhe fifth thr,iad youwillfind it .epeats the first thread. fhis is why vou
mrrst count and \ratch your weave.

NO'IE: Throughout the bock "Under" is indicated by the letter' "U" and
'Over" is indicated by the letter "O". For example: Under 2 over 2
under 2 will be wrilten U2, 02, U2.
 T H L F R E N W A Y S YS T } J M Pagc 46

V I S U A L G R A MN O . l 3 - " C o u n r i n e o u r " N o r i c ' c o " { o l l v h o w c o u n r ' n e o u r i s

donc olons onc rh.edd. Lett rhumb Hold rhreodsolreodv counredour down'
N e . d l e i 5 i n s c r r e dc o u n t i n qo u f t h e n e x f i h r e o d .

As yciu fornr thr) hrbit ()f (iollnting oui irnd writing rl()wn th(i virrr()us
w()irvcs, y()u will clisrrover thlt E(rrrr(w ] hi(rh s(omlllncy'provc to Do (lrltrc
two
sjnrpl('. |()r insllnce, th()re is the d()ulrlc lirsl<(rt wcavc, irl whi.lI
' I ' h c \ ' o l v o p r r l 1 {r n i s s l i l l r h ( s i m -
thrrirds togt'thcr' irr{) lroirtod:Ls on{.
lcnrcmbL'r t() l)icli up rw() rhr( ircls
l)t( ()nL'lnd ()n!; you rn('rcl) hirvl to
w i t h J o u r n ( c d l ( ' e r t (h i i l n c . Sr)c VisurlgriLm #14'
 T lIIl FRENWAY SYSTEM P:rge 47

V I S U A L G R I M N O . l 4 - A d o u b l c b d t k . r w . o v . o r o d o o b l Go n c o i d o n . r . o v e .
T[ii '.ove i. rrvolly fovndin dor..rpr.riv.go'h.nrr.

N()'fFl: A doublc one-irnd-onL- is rL'wovcD tw() thrca(ls at :r tirne if

llt( two threl(ls ar'e thc s:rmc ccrlor'. Wtl(: each of Lhc iw() lhreacls
origirlrlly woven :rt lhe s:rme tirne ire of different colors, thcy must
l ) c r ( , i ) l r i i r i ' d o n c : r t 1 1t j D r { i . i t e o s p r ' o i i , l l y c i ) r L r f u l 1 o w ( i r \ . 1 -t l r ( ' m i n
just rs the lrlltcru in thc millcriirl rrquircs. (Somctim0s thero is
onf liAhl ihrrrrd irnd on(, ( l r t r k onc. ) li' t)rrrticul,rrly cirroful to mal<(r
n c r L t j ( ' i n i n g s w h { , r r lr e p L i r c i n g r h . s c r h r o r d s o n ( i r t a t i m r ) .

Color irealm{rnt rnity drsguis(' a sirnple baskct weilve rLlso. Counl

out sample No. :1, whjch lool<s vr'ry inlricrle. WhencvL'r th.re irre twc)
or nlore colors of \,r,rrp threrds and two diff.ir'.nt sh:rdes (sed for the
woot, the contrasiing colors mitkc ilte p.rtiefn se('m intricate. lJy run-
ning 3 n.edlc along on(: color, 1,!c.r\:ing :Ls )oLr go, you .'t'i)l otleD finLl
that th.r weavc is rerUy:r simolt: one.
 T TI!] FRENWAY SYSTEM Page 48

THE WEAVE OF THE WARP

It is import.rnl to know whrt the pJltern of lhe wrrp thrcads is for

eitch piece of material, too. C o r . l n to u t t h e s e o n t h e s a m p l e s . Y o u w i l l
find thal n)ost wervcs of thL' warp lrp simple one and - (r1p or two-
and-lwo. Ihcrr] arc exceptjons, howevcf, so.lo not neglcct to count out
the warp wolrvc to makc ccrlain what thc pattern is.

EXERCTSE
NO.14

HEIIRINGBONE

Herringbone twiLls whichoccur in cloth used for ove|coats, are vcry

c ( ) i u s c . ' l ' h c y a r c l e s s ( : ( ) a r s ef o r t o p c o i t s a n d e v c n l e s s s o f o r s u i t s .
He.ringbonc stripes vary in width fronr 1/'l inch tr) one inch. The pat-
tcrn is changed by "bl-eal<s" at tire edge of cllch stripe. At cach "bre:rktl
thr| weavL' l)irttern chlngcs, T:J{e sample No. ?, which is a hcrringl)orlc
paitern, and count out thc weaves for the lirst six woof threads :rt the
top.

You will drscover ihrt th| w(:lvl' is U2, ()2, ctc. gMl]! wh( n' the
slrDling (diagonrl) linos charg(. direcljon. \1 thoso troinls, thL' wooi
ihr.ird go(s O1, Ul (or Ul, Ol) bcfore continuing thc (J2, ()2, wclvc ir
bit further before making another break, Those points are thc breaks.
In frct, it is by cbanging the weave fron U2, 02 at intervals toOt, Ul
oi tJl, Ol thilt the Herringbone patLern is nride. See Visualgrai\ #tj.
I I I I I t I I J I I I I I I I I fL

T h i 3 i s r h . u p p 6 rr i g h r h c n d c o r n c r

v t s u A L c R A MN o - .l 5 . T h i s , r o h e i i , n s b . . €p o | € r n . A r w o o i d r * o w i r h o , , h , . o l , , . T f i , e e , , b , e . k 3 ' . i € s h o w n
i n l h i 3 d i o g r o m . 5 t o r t o r t h e v p p e ' i g h t h . . d c o , n e r o n d { o l l o ? e o c h w o o Jr h r e . d o l l r h e w o y o c , o 3 . , < o u n n n so s
you so.Yd will norice ir srorrsos follows . sto.i or the 2 rhreds b€lo.e hFk os illusi!.red ond cdni I.o.,iqk ro l"ti iop
Y g O F ^T H ! ! A q . S r o , r , e o d i nhee , e . b u ! r e n e m b €r,n i s i s { , o r R i e h o L e h o n d , o-? r o m .0 2 . U t - 6 1 . U 2 _ 0 2 -
u 2- 0 2 - u 2 . 0 2 . u 2 . o l - U t . 0 2 - U 2 . 0 2 - U 2 . 0 2 - U 2 . O i . U l . O l . U 2
2 n d w o o { t f i r e o di s o v e r 2 u ^ d e ' 2 o l l t h e * o y o c r o s s .
3 ; w o o {t h r c o d . c o u n t{ ' o m ' i e h i t o l e l i 0 5 i t l D 5 t , o i e dS. r o ' th d e - U 2 - O t - U t - 0 2 - U 2 -02-L2.OZ.U2-Oz
u l - o l . u 2 - 0 2- u 2 . 0 2 - i 2 . o 2 - U 2 . O l . U l . 0 2 .
4 r h * o o { r h r e o di s o v e r 2 u n d e r2 o l ! r h e * o y
"c,os,.
5 r h w o o l t h r e o dr e p 6 o t 5y o u r l s r w 6 { r h , d d o r r h e b . e o k s o n d a c r c s s .
N O T E : W h e r ei h e b r e o ki h ' e o d s o r e U l - O l o t o . e b r e o k , r h e n e x r b r e o k o n s o m ei h , e o d w i be Ot - Ut erc. This
h o k . s / o u r l e r i t r g b o . e p o n e ' n , r e s o r d l e r so { r h e w i d r h o { r h e b r e o k s .
w o r pi h r . o J s o r e O v e r 2 U n d . r 2 .
 T H } , F ' R LN W A Y S Y S ' f L M l aq(,.rLl

At this poii1, yoll nrLght bc srying: "Wait :r Minute. W i r r n I c ( ) L Lt c ( i ,

I g o t a r e g u l r r t \ ( ) - a n d - t w o w o s v e f o r everY other woof t l r r c a . l . '

l hirl rs ( oIr'r,! t. l l s u i r l l y r ' \ . e| y ! ) l h r , r ' 1 r o ( ) 1 1 1 l | ( , i r d ( l ( l 1 , s l o L l ( ) w i l r r

r ' ( , g r r lr r 1 w , , : r ) ( l l ! ! , ) w ( r i \ ( . N , ) \ r y o L l s ( ( , \ , J h t r t i s r ) ( , ( ! s s . i l l l ( ) , l ( . 1 ( , '
rlrillc rh(' \!( iL\,( (,f.-(.\{ r.'l 1lrL1,,(l: rrr ()r'(lt.r lo II (J L,|lr,Ji.li,,
i1(l\ i!hii1 ilr( t)i'll( r'Il is.

l"
r ' l ) i , t ) : , i l r ( l t c t r i n g l r t t r r L ,s r r t , l ( . ( , | l \ , . , h i ( l r ) o r ) i L r ' ( l , r ' : ( . 1L ( l l ] ! t r : !!()v(n
rrs 1r)llowi: ll:1, ()1. tI:1, Ol, I l, O:, ll:, Ol, lll, ()1, lll. r i( \,)l

lr| .. r1,\ \''., ,,r .1 "t.'r ".,,r, r

1or,tl|i1{ iIlirlirriI i I l r ) r , l o r ' 1 ( ) l ) r ' . r L I r ( , l h i r i } ' , ) u i r r r " ,r r( r l1- 1 i 1 r !IiI r ( ( i ( , I r r | ) | (L { '

t t ( . ' I i r r 1 I i | ( , r r (, l o l l l \!irh $'r(i r,lI'itxi., is rrr,iIr'i,, |( !f,..L!. 1,,',,ir,i

rlrrr'(.:u( it,\t r'lrrtrrk:1(, w r ' 1 . c l ro u l I ( ) r ' . IltLr., tItL.:r(( ()rr(I w(ir\( .t!,r
r r r ( r r I i , ) r r r ' ( Ii r ( . r i : r i , r ' 1 ( ) i l , ) i h r r n l h ( ' o l l r ' h i r v i n l l ) , ( r l , , r ( l ( , : c I lr) i llr( ,
r l r l r , i u g l r l l r ( . : , r ' c , , I l ( l r ( ) i , J (i o 0 j ] 1 r t o c ( , u t l L ( ) ( l 1 .

EXERCIsE
NO.15

I'ti.\( lI( t; ()N .\ !,\l l t t \ ( i l , s \ & tt , L ] . , , - , -

A v i r i L i h i r l l - tr , i , l o . ! 1 l l l l i i l i ( r i | l l i n \ 1 ) u r l r ' ; r | r r i r , r ll r r r ; r : i ' : : w r ) L r l . ]l ) r ' r , r

( ) l ) t " r J r: r l i r r p s o f w o ( ) l { r n . r L o l h o i a s r n i r n y ( l i f l r ' r ' r ' I l l l r l r l . t c r l r s a s - ! ( ) u l l r
r n ( l f i g u r . , ) L r tt h ( ' $ , c l 1 v c I ( ) r f i r r ' h ( ) r c . l f y ( ) L rh a v ( i , ) n l y r 1 c w , l s l i y ( ) l l r
n ( i q i r l ) o r s t o i c t . v o u 1 l r L V es , , r r I n , o . ( t . r t ) r i r ( 1 r , , ( r | l . l l t r l t ] l c l ' n r i t ) r i r l l l r L
wcr\'€:s ()f ir grcai mlnv sarnl)1o5, )'rru ,viil fin(l youIsclI h.-c(rmirlt llrle
io r'.!-()gnizeth. srrIll)lcr ()r(is $ith(rLlt {rouniifg ()ul. H ( ) r L ' \ ' er , a s l h i s
M r u u : r i 1 , 1 . n r l l . () l, , u I r e f ( , 1 1 , 1 1 , ( c i ( r r l ) ( ' r i c c , c i \ ( , ( l c l 5 i l l ; lhcr'cl()r'c, test
o l r t a v e r t s a n p l c l ( ) s r L - i f - v ( ) u l 'h u n ( i h c s h a v c l r e e n c o f r c c t .
 THE FRIJNWAY SYSTEM Page 51

Learning to count oul h.rs given you a bricf rest from prlclicin!:
rcrveaving. Now it is tjme for )ou 1o resuDtl- vour lrrac1ic... Ihis tjme
Jo{ should learn !o reweavc 1be HerringboDe \reaves itnd sotn{,of the
f r r n c y o n e s . S t a r l w i t h t h o s e n a d e o f c o t L r s c t h r c a d s i t n c li i r k c L r s i o w .
When yoLl make a mistake, stud) it to be sure of whlrtyou Llid incorrect-
lJ bcforc doing the thre:rd over. Do not start oul on l complc.x \,.,(,.rvcb).
trying 1o reweave a d.rmaged pliLce fivn thr.,ads wide; l(,iLrn irr ttr, s-rm(l
mcthodicitl w:ry that yoLl masterr'd th.r simple wcavcs; First, wcJ!.(,ovcr
i n t a c l t h r e r d s ; s e c o n d , r e p l a c c s m a l l g a p s i n 1 s i n g k , t h r . : r ( 1 , l | , r L( w o ,
lbcn th|c(, ctc.; third, rcweav( two-wiry damlgc(l pllr.os, tlhing !.Jre
to do th(' clipt)ing and joining correctly; fourth, go grrdually lrom corrsr:
t o f i n c r f : r b r i c s ; r n d f i f t h , r c s t r n d r e l a x b y g o i n g l ) l r c k f r { , q u c u l l J 1 r )d o
simpl( r rew.'irving which yolt havc:rlrc:rdy thorolrghly rnastor.od

E X E R C TNs O
E .t 6

OTHUIT'fWILL WEAVES

'lh(
v i r r i o u s l w i l l w c r r v c s h : r v c d i f f ( , r ( i n t n i r r n t 's . Irlrltn(.1 L: rn()s!
( ) f 1 r ' nw o v c r l i n l t w o r r x l t w o o r ' : L t w o - i t n d - o n ( ) p : r t t ( r . S r : r . g r .r . . o r
m()nly of lhc lwo irn(l-1wo we;rvc wilh c()irrscr thrcl(ls tlLlD gll).urlur(..
(lovr'r.1 ck)lh is g('ncrirlly of tlL. lhreo-irnd-tw() wcirv(,. (;rLbtrrdir( s .LrI
ntir(lc irl s(v{,rirI (iifi('ront wervr's, so thcy shall bt dcscribr:d rn nrur'i.
delrril.

Claburclincs oflon have woof thr.crLds runrrirg O1, tJ2, O1, lll, (,ic.
llowcv(r, lhc wrrrp wilL folIow tht' r'('vetse pltt('rn rrnd br,()2, lll, ():1,
U1, etc. Sanrplc N(), 8 has the two-and-one pattcrn. Ncvrrtholuss,
coll)l])orllv used ,jaba|dincs have the two-and-two weave. llenrarnber.
th:rl it is tbc pr'D{r'essiorr in the weave which creates the twills )lr the

A wcavc frequently found in gabardine has woof going Ul, Ol, UL,
O1, U2, etc. and warp running 03, U2, 03, U2, e1c,
 T H F JF R E N I { A Y S Y S T E M Page 52

Although gabardines are the most difficult to reweave, practice and

patience will lead you to success. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REWEAVE
ANY GABARDINES I]NTIL YOU THOROUGHLY IJNDERS'|AND THE
'I
PA'f l'bRN OF HE WUAVE. As thc prcceeding p:rr.rgraphs show, there
is qujtL- ;r vilri(ity of weaves in gabrrrdincs. \'ou must n(,vor sl(ip the
colinl rng- oul pr()cess,

Note tho l)rogrcssion in each c:rse and folLow il. If yoLrstLrrt U2, O1,
LI2, O1, cic. r.wc:rving iLwoof lhrolrd in r two-,rnd one wcrv(', yolr rnust
rewcavc'thc next threcd lJelow it - starting fron) the same warp thread
O1, U2, Ol, U2, otc. The third woof thread, starting lrom the sarne
p()ini, would bc rcw,)vcn Ul, Ol, U2, O1, et(j. 'lhe fourth woof throad
repelt:', Lhe first. 'fhis
is the technique for n.aking the dialjclnal ridges
calle.l twius. In weaving, counting out is alwaJs done from .ighi tol(ift.

l l ( c o r t r i n g b o t h a c c u r a t e a n d s l ( i l l f u l a t r ( . w c - a v i n ga n y A r r ) ) i r r ' ( l t n e
weav.
tak(s (luilc a lonA tirne, so (lo not g(rt disc()urrgcd when )()Ltn,iLkc lrlis-
t a k e s . P r o f i t b y t h c n r , a n d r e s t o r e y o u r c o f i d c n c c i n . , . ( ) L L r . s ( .bl iy r c -
weaving danr:]ged a.eas in simpler wcirves fo. awhilc. Donrt t)c rn a
hurl.y to rewcavc the finer-thrc:rdcd gabardines.

Very t(irnplirlg eloth on which k) try your rewelving abilLty is gal)ar-

dine which has Ol, U4 woof and 04, Ul wafp because it is (luitc soft and
'fopcoats
easy to harldle. are frequently of this wcave and occ.rsion:lly,
men and womenrs suits. Almost every lcarner attcnrpts to reweavar on
tlfs cloth before he is expert enough to (lo it. The threads :rr.c extra-
fine, whicl) inal:es it difficult to eet thcm into the propcr prttter'n. But
if you try and fail o\'er and over agii.in, ihcrc is no cause for.alarnr. [t
takes lime lo become an expert. Furtherrnorc, you maJ' bccome :rrr
expert at rcweaving several tylies of cloth wilhout bccomirrg an expcrt
at reweaving all thc fancy weaves that you inai cncounter.
 ,T
HN FRDNWAY S\ S fUM Page 53

EXERCISE
NO.I7

Ii }JWIiA I'INC FANCY W].]AVDS

S o r n i . I i r n () : ( ) i n t i i r i l t r ' : u r d o r i , i l r l l l l r r r n ( ) ( ) r 1 rp ( ' r ' s ( ) n

i(.1s ( n ( ) u g h ( , 1 1 h ( , n r r ( r r ' ( , w e i L v {1 , ) i ) , c ( ) r n , i , r l ( x t ) , r ' r o n r h ( , i r j - \ i r h r ' r r r ' r ,Ii
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