Drafting

Men's Pa
nts Patte
rn
Seam allowance
is
 included
. It is 1/4 " (0.6
cm)
Drafting the m
en's pants fro
nt pattern.
On a long piece
of paper about (
outseam + ( (4
" or 10.4cm) ) )
long and ( seat
+ ( (6 " or 15.6
cm) ) ) wide, dr
awa line down t
he middle.Near
the top, select a
point and mark
point
0
.From
0
down to
1
 is ( outseam -
( (1 " or 2.6 cm
) ) ) .From
1
up measure up
inseam to
2
.
3
is midway betw
een
1
and
2
( ( inseam / 2 )
).
4
from
3
is 2 " (5.2 cm)
.Square out fro
m points
0
,
 2
,
4
, and
1
.
5
from
2
is ( seat / 5.5 )
.
6
from
2
is ( seat / 12 )
7
from
2
is ( seat / 12 )
Square up from
6
to locate
8
on line
0
Square out from
7
to locate
9
on line
610
from
 9
is 0.25 " (0.6 c
m)Draw line
8
-
10
.
11
 from
10
is ( seat / 4 )
12
from
8
 is ( ( waist / 4
) + ( (0.5 " or 1
.3 cm) ) )
13
and
14
from
4
 is ( knee_width
/ 2 )
15
and
16
from
1
 is ( cuff_width
/ 2 )
17
from
1
is ( cuff_depth
? ( ( 3 * cuff_d
epth ) - ( (0.25
"or 0.6 cm) ) ) :
( (2 " or 5.2 cm
) ) ) (allowance
for thecuff (if an
y) is included in
this measureme
nt).Square out fr
om
 17
.The waist line f
orm
8
is squared by li
ne
8
-
 10
until it isabout
0.25 " (0.6 cm)
below line
8
-
12
 . Then it curves
gently into
12
.The fly fall (fro
nt rise) follows t
he straight line
8
-
 10
andthen makes
a shallow curve
into
5
.Through
11
 the outseam is
vertical from ab
out 1 " (2.6cm)
above to 0.5 " (
1.3 cm) below.
Continue upwar
d,curving into
12
 .Shape the leg,
making the inse
am and outsea
m verticalfrom t
he bottom to at
least 2 " (5.2 c
m) above
15
 and
16
and identical to
each other from
the bottom to th
e knee.Above th
e knee the inse
am is a natural
continuation,wai
ting until almost
the top to curve
into
5
. The outseama
lso continues na
turally above
 14
, easing outwar
d tomeet the co
ntinuation down
ward from
11
.Add notches (f
or assembly) at
the following poi
nts:
0
,
14
,
16
,
 15
, and
13
.In the outseam
, 1.5 " (3.9 cm)
below the waist
edge,and again
6.25 " (16.25 c
m) below that (f
or the frontpock
ets).In the fly f
all about 1.5 " (
3.9 cm) to 2.5 "
(6.5 cm)from th
e inseam: Put th
e zero end of th
e tapemeasure
3/8 " (.97 cm) b
elow the waist
edge andmeasu
re along the fly
fall 1/4 " (0.6 c
m) in from thep
attern outline. C
ut the fly notch
at the nearest w
holeinch, and th
at will be the len
gth of your pant
s zipper.
Drafting Men
's Pants Patt
ernhttp://
trantanphat.
com/
tailoring/
drafting/
trousers_ins
ts.html1
s u r
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J
.
Drafting the p
ants back patt
ern.
Drafting Men
's Pants Patt
ernhttp://
trantanphat.
com/
tailoring/
drafting/
trousers_ins
ts.html2
s u r
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measurement and square a line across the width with tailor’s chalk

Divide the section equally in half parallel to the selvedge with a chalk line. These are the left and right leg
sections.

On each leg section, measure in approx. 2-4″ from the lines. This may vary based on how fitted a bottom
cuff you want (must be able to get your foot through however). Then, measure along the length and find
the midpoint. Chalk a notch. (X and O on diagram). Join Xs and Os to bottom points at hem with a
straight edge using chalk.

Take this “midpoint” measurement and plot it along the waistline. Add 13″ for the rise. Square up on
remaining fabric parallel to selvedge and mark with chalk. This is the gusset section.

Divide the gusset section in half by squaring across the fabric width.

Measure across top and bottom the distance equal to half the leg distance from waistline to X. Plot it
and mark with chalk. Repeat but measure the dividing line from the opposite end. Join the notches with
a straight edge. (see diagram).

Cut on the chalk lines. You will have a left leg side, a right leg side, and 2 pairs of gussets.

ASSEMBLY

Finish raw edges with desired seam finish. (I used pinking shears).

With right sides together, pin and baste a gusset to each center portion of the legs. (Match Xs and Os).
Stitch seam and press open.

With right sides together, fold each leg section in half lengthwise and pin and paste inseam from crotch
to hem. Stitch inseam and press seam open.

Turn one leg section right side out and place it down the other leg section. Match up CF and CB at waist
and align inseams. Pin and baste gussets together and stitch crotch seam. Press open. Turn pants right
side out.

Turn under 1/2″ at waistline and press. Turn under 1″ all round and machine stitch down to create a
casing. Open a slit in the front crotch seam at the waist to insert an elastic or drawcord. (make elastic
equal to your waist measurement less 2″ if using).

Hem bottoms of legs using a 1″ hem allowance.

August 9, 2008
PATTERN DRAFTING BY HEIGHT

body proportionsThis pattern design method can be used to determine drafting measurements from a
given figure height combined with girth measurements for the chest, waist and hips. Knowing the
person’s height allows for formulations of various lengths based on the Golden Mean and combined with
established size parameters, a trouser or torso pattern can be drafted for an average human body.

H = full length of body; also the span of laterally outstretched arms, measured from finger-tip to finger-
tip, is equal to the height of the body.

1/2 H = upper part of body (torso) or lower part of body (legs)

1/4 H = length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to navel

1/6 H = length of foot and length of forearm (measured from elbow to wrist)

1/8 H = length of head from crown to bottom of chin

1/10 H = height of face; also length of hand

Drafting By Height: Trousers (based on 8 heads per figure)

The theory based upon the Golden Mean can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given
figure height of an average or off-proportioned body. You need the following measurements to draft a
trouser pattern: height, waist and hips. The scale is one head equals 1/8 of the total height.

Example:

for a person who is 5 feet 8 inches tall, one head length is 8 ½”

5′ 8″ = 68″ 68″/8 = 8.5″

Rise is 1 head plus 1″ ease plus width of the waistband

eg. rise = 1/8 height + ease + waistband width

Inseam is 4 heads minus Y (amount taken off for width of trouser cuffs)

eg. inseam = 1/2 height – Y

Outseam is inseam plus rise, or

5 heads plus ease minus Y plus waistband width

eg. outseam = 5/8 height + ease – Y + waistband width

Example:

Given a height of 5 feet, 8 inches, trouser cuff width of 18″ and a waistband 1-1/2″ wide, then:

rise = 68/8 + 1 + 1.5 = 11

inseam = 68/8 – 2.5 = 31.5

outseam = 5/8 x 68 + 1 – 2.5 + 1.5 = 42.5

Table for Leg Reduction (Y amount)

for bottom width take off Y amount *

24″ 1″

23″ 1.25″

22″ 1.5″

21″ 1.75″

20″ 2″

19″ 2.25″

18″ 2.5″

* for shaped trouser cuffs, use less Y amount (0.5″ to 0.75″)

pant draftTrouser draft:

square both ways at 0.

0-1 = body rise + 3/8″ [1cm]; square across

0-2 = waist to hip; square across. (approx. 8-9″ [20-23 cm]).

0-3 = outseam; square across

1-4 = midway between 1-3 minus 2″ [5 cm]; square across.

1-5 = 1/12 hip mmt. + 5/8″ [18 mm]; square up to locate points 6 and 7.

6-8 = ¼ hip mmt. + 3/8″ [10 mm]

5-9 = 1/16 hip mmt. + 3/8″ [10mm]

7-10 = 3/8″ [10mm] squared across and 3/8″ [10 mm] squared down

Join 10-6 with straight line and join 6-9 with a curve line as shown.

This is the centerfront crutch seam.

Square up and down from point 8.

10-11 = ¼ waist mmt. + 3/8″ [10mm] (note: point 11 will “sit” on line 7.)

12 is located at intersection of 3 and 8.

13 is located at intersection of 4 and 8.

Square down from 5 to locate 14 and 15

5-16 = 1/2 mmt of line 5-9

6-17 = ¼ mmt of line 5-9

7-18 = 3/8″ [10mm]; join 17-18 and extend as a tangent line

19-20 = ¼ waist mmt. + 3/8″ [10 mm], taken at a 90 degree angle from tangent line so that line 19-20
touches the line 7-11. (Note: point 19 will be located on the right angle and the constructed line may not
touch at point 11 as shown.)

9-21 = ½ mmt. of 5-9

Join 17-21 with curved line as shown

3-22 = 1/4 trouser cuff width minus 1/4″ [6 mm]

23 is located on kneeline.

3-24 = ¼ trouser cuff width minus 1/4″ [6 mm]

4-25 = 4-23

Join 24-25 with a straight line and 25-9 with a curved line as shown.

24-26 = 3/4″ [20 mm]

25-27 = 3/4″ [20mm]

Join 26-27 with a straight line and 27-21 with a parallel curved line as shown.

5-28 = ¼ hip mmt. + 1/4″ [6 mm]

Join 22-23-28-8 and gently curve into 20 to draw outseam leg seam.

This is an easy fit type trouser pattern. Trace off front and back patterns. If you desire extra ease (seat
angle) in crutch of trouser’s back portion, cut along back hipline and open a wedge about 1-1/2″ [40
mm] wide at CB to nil at side seam. Redraw centerback seam.

J
.
Drafting the p
ants back patt
ern.
Drafting Men
's Pants Patt
ernhttp://
trantanphat.
com/
tailoring/
drafting/
trousers_ ins
ts.html2
s u r
4 0 4
/ 0 3
/ 2 0
1 7
2 1 :
1 1