Anne Duval

BONSAI
and
HOUSEPLANTS
for Beginners

A Complete Guide to Choose, Grow and Take Care of

your Bonsai and Houseplants

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Author: Anne Duval

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Table
of
Conten
ts
BOOK 1: Bonsai for
Beginners

Introduction

History of Bonsai

Bonsai Basics

Best Bonsai Plants

Bonsai Pest Protection

How to Keep your

Bonsai

Problems with your Bonsai?Seven Signs of Trouble

How To Revive A Dying Bonsai Tree

Bonsai Tree Pots

Bonsai Soil

Bonsai Repotting

Bonsai Longevity

How to Start a Bonsai Business

Conclusion

BOOK 2: Houseplants for Beginners

Introduction

The Benefits of Houseplants:

Choosing Your Plant(s)

Best Houseplants for Beginners

The Basics of Houseplant Care

Lighting for Your Plants

Watering Your Plants

What Plants Like

What Plants Don't Like

Easiest to Grow Houseplants

Additional Plants for Your Home

Poisonous Plants

Care and Maintenance of Your Plants

Top 10 Indoor Tips & Tricks

Conclusion

Anne Duval
 BONSAI
for Beginners

A Complete Guide to Grow and Take Care of your Bonsai,

besides knowing History, Styles and the different species
of legendary Japanese Tree

Introduction
The defini on of the term "Bonsai" is a plant, usually a tree or a shrub,
which is cul vated in a container and made to look like a mature tree
through the use of various training techniques. Usually, the plant does not
exceed 1 meter in height. The art of Bonsai, as we know it, dates back to
2,000 years. The term bonsai is made up of two Japanese characters or
words, "bon" and "sai," "bon" is a bowl, a tray or a jar, "sai" is a tree or a
po ed plan ng. The term Bonsai applies equally to indoor and outdoor
plants. The original word Bonsai derives from the Chinese word "P'en Tsai"
which sounds similar to bonsai and has almost the same meaning. It could
not be further from the true spirit of the bonsai if we were to narrow our
understanding in this way. It is indeed a plant in a bowl, but a tree that has
been exposed to a range of hor cultural and esthe c disciplines through
which visual equilibrium and botanical well-being are a ained. The
purpose of the tradi onal Bonsai is to create a balanced miniature image
of the fruit.

The ul mate challenge for the maker of Bonsai is to reveal the essence of
the tree. Bonsai's cra is to tell a story by living hallucina ons. The ar st
aims to explore ways of expressing himself within the boundaries of
successful hor cultural prac ce. Bonsai is a fun mixture of shape, feeling,
and sugges on in a miniature world; and, like all good art, it endures.

Beginners and students also have the same concern: the ability to maintain
a safe crop. The goal is to be able to control the degree of pressure that the
plant can bear to remain healthy. "Stress" is not an emo onal stress, but a
reference to the hor cultural tradi on of being able to know how much is
too much, and how much is too li le. This principle applies to all facets of
Bonsai nature, including wind, water, soil, light, nutrients, temperature,
eleva on, pruning, etc. The goal is to have the willingness to learn, to test
and to accept the results of these efforts. Time is another central aspect of
Bonsai. The cycle of development takes me, and there are no shortcuts. A
that year is the normal yards ck to measure success. Caring about the
Bonsai generates a profound sense of sa sfac on over me. There is no
subs tu on for me; it's always con nuous and going on. It is said that
one will know more than Bonsai through the study of Bonsai.
Bonsai is about plants, a small forest. It's also about me and space and
about cultureand a tudes. Historically, Bonsai has been a part of culture,
an important part of family heritage. Similarly, Bonsai can literally be a past
hor cultural period needing nothing more than a measure of common
sense in plan ng, some ar s c ability, and a great deal of pa ence.

Mark Pa erson, an enthusias c bonsai enthusiast and owner of Urban

Oasis Bonsai, spoke to HCP hor cultural students about Bonsai design.

Mark clarified that bonsai is a hor cultural and ar s c prac ce, not an
organism or an unusual Japanese tree. The term bonsai literally translates
as "plan ng in a bowl." The plants used for bonsai are regular shrubs and
trees that are formed in miniature sizes by pruning all branches and roots.
Most of the bonsai were indoor plants.

Yet bonsai is also a form of art, like a pain ng or a sculpture. The art of
choosing a tree, observing and learning from a leaf, and then using specific
techniques of pruning, wiring and care to create a miniaturized, live plant
sculpture.
Bonsai can't be cared for or conceived of as a house plant. You have to visit
the tree every day, spend five minutes a day, observe it closely every day,
decide when to drink, pinch and cut. Bonsai growers are very close to their
plants, and they know every branch personally.

Important elements of the bonsai include the shape of the trunk, the
rota on of the roots and branches, the outline, the branching and the root
pruning. Plant type and soil composi on are also very special to bonsai.
The trunk is one of the most eye-catching characteris cs of the tree, it
should be thinner at its base than at the top of the tree, think of taper,
taper, taper. Mark clarified that at some stage he would look at 400 trees in
a nursery to find a good bonsai collec on.

Movement, whether the trunk travels to the le or to the right or to the S,

generates excitement and is appreciated for the produc on of bonsai.
Movement is also generated by the unique zigzag pruning technique used
in bonsai called the law of two. The law of the two suggests that you
always cut back from two internships. Of eg, the first cut is down to two
interns, the new stems must expand at the cu ng site, and then they will
be pruned to the law of twos, etc. This cycle creates an interes ng,
complicated thickening division that gives form and defines the area. The
Bonsai silhoue e is usually triangular. When pruning, it is important to
remember that bonsai is intended to replicate nature and base the form of
your tree on its existence as a normal size plant.

The bonsai pot is very cri cal, and the plants must be in a decent bonsai
pot to be called bonsai. Bonsai pots are much smaller, thinner, fla er than
tradi onal western pots. A bonsai may be grown in a larger pot for more
health and comfort, but it is transferred to a bonsai pot for show. The
effect of the pot and display of the bonsai is an expression of the bonsai
ar st.
Bonsai is cul vated in different soil; a special mix exclusive to every bonsai
enthusiast. Mark uses his own mix of lava rock, sea sand, granite #2 and
pine bark. Bonsai soil is a mixture designed to allow a lot of air to
penetrate the soil, provide good drainage and s ll maintain enough
moisture during watering.

Root pruning is another special and important component in the

development of bonsai. Root pruning produces a ny root mass so that the
tree can fall into a small container. Roots behave similar to branches when
they are pruned; rising from the end when they are trimmed. As with all
pruning, ming and quan ty are important to allow the tree to regenerate,
expand and con nue to thrive.
A highlight of our exposure to bonsai was a descrip on of how to apply
bonsai techniques to boxwood. The process of crea ng a bonsai became
easier as Mark spoke to us through the steps and encouraged students to
get close and personal and prune several branches. There are many
different devices for Bonsai, but the boxwood was delicate enough to be
formed. Mark also demonstrated how to root the prune and repot the
bonsai to the correct bonsai jar. He used a different tree for root example,
as he explained, you're not expected to do appendix surgery or stomach
surgery on the day.

Although the art of bonsai takes years to master, Mark's talk and demos
gave us a brief glimpse of the thrill of making bonsai.

To many people, the sight of small trees in beau ful clay pots is a bit of a
mystery to them. At the same me, they are also a racted to them and
fascinated by their many different styles and shapes.
For those who are addicted to developing such ny wonders, some mes
they can also be a li le addic ve. Some would say that bonsai is nothing
more than a fun hobby that will take up a lot of your me. Others would
say that it is an art form that involves a religious devo on not only to the
wellbeing of the tree, but to the study of art design standards and laws
that should be adhered to as carefully as possible in order to make a bonsai
tree that is "pleasing to the eye."

Bonsai, simply pronounced bone-sigh (never pronounce Banzai a seasoned

bonsai grower, you're not going to make a lot of friends this way) means a
tree in a tray or, as we might suggest, in a bowl.

Many people don't realize it, but a lot of the reasons why they like looking
at bonsai, also has to do with the pot. The two actually go along with the
thumb rule that the plant must be er match the leaf.

The basic central principle in bonsai is that it should give the appearance of
age when seeing the fruit. In most instances, this is simply an idea put on
by the painter or grower, who is searching for a tree stock to use that will
aid him for his quest of making and showcasing an age old tree. It Chinese
elm, for instance, has a bark which genuinely gives the appearance of an
aged plant. To find material like this, along with a flaring root system,
would certainly give the illusion of age even though the tree may be only
ten to fi een years old.

Of course, there are also very old bonsai trees, par cularly harvested
mountain junipers, and pines that have been taught and passed down from
genera on to genera on in both Japan and China.

Many people were exposed to bonsai by buying a common specimen

known in bonsai circles as "Mallsai," usually a juniper procumbens cu ng
that is said to stay indoors. In a short me, the plant usually dies because it
can not adapt to the indoor environment that it never wanted to do. A er
that, many people will think that they're not cut out to grow bonsai, and
just give up.
With the advent of the internet, many people have sought advice on online
bonsai forums and have been greatly helped since their numerous day-to-
day issues surrounding the general health of their trees, and even with
styling ps. Their greatest asset, however, would be to join a local bonsai
club if they had one open in their town. There's nothing be er than the
local advice of someone who has "been there, done that," especially when
it comes to dealing with bugs that might be plaguing someone in one part
of the country, but there's nowhere else to be found.

You'll need some dedica on to your trees just like any living thing to be
really good in bonsai. That's what I mean by being able to do more than
just spray them once in a while. In fact, there will certainly be days when
you need to water them more than once or twice a day, and if you can't be
there to do that, you need to make sure someone else is there. Watering
will not be performed on a calendar, but on the basis of what is required,
however o en it may be. One of the main things that every bonsai grower
will need to learn is his water, and if he's doing what he's meant to do.

Another job you need to know is repo ng and the value of it. Once you've
learned a lot about the basic steps to keep your bonsai alive and healthy,
you'll need to start learning about the styling elements and what it's all
about.

The most important thing you need to know about in this field is the
plumbing and the right way to do it.

You'll need to know the basic types that are best suited to your par cular
tree, such as Upright, Informal upright, Slan ng, Cascade, and Semi
Cascade. For these five different styles, you'll need to choose the best pot
to match the bush. There are many books on the market today that will
give advice on these topics, but one in the bonsai world stands out as the
"bonsai bible" and that is John Nakas's Bonsai Techniques-1 and Bonsai
Techniques-2. Of course, in order to do this type of work, there are
different techniques that will not only make it easier, but offer the special
feeling that you are serious about your endea.

Bonsai is an educator, too. It will teach you endurance, and it will teach you
the importance of me. If you do not permit yourself to be taught these
two important aspects of bonsai art, you will never be happy with what
you have done, no ma er how hard you try to persuade yourself. Take a
look at these two videos. The one on the le illustrates what some people
would be happy for, just as they are, a bonsai tree in a bowl. But the same
tree on the right five years later reveals how much me and pa ence you
will have if you let it go.

Then, what about selec ng the stuff to be used for bonsai. Most people
living in mountainous regions are going to collect material that is
appropriate for bonsai art. To beginners, this may not be the ideal thing
unless you're with someone who knows what to look to, and you're only
allowed to collect.

For this cause, most newcomers would meet at local garden style nurseries
and even so-called "box stores" such as the Home Depot. When that's all
you've got for the me being, then use these sites as your source, and try
and get the most out of what you've got. Look at this Procumbens Juniper
bought at a local box store. The photo on the le was taken right a er its
ini al shaping and put in a large pot so as not to strain the tree too much
to extract so much soil and root from its original nursery bowl.

The same tree two and a half years later, complete with its final pot and
decora on, or how about this maple seedling, bought at the nursery
garden in 1991. Ten years later, she reveals what energy and effort she's
trying to do.

So over me, you'll actually need to consider what you want bonsai to be
for you, a sport where the rules are for someone else, or an art form where
commitment is a must, and design principles and hor cultural skills should
place your trees on the cu ng edge of world class bonsai if that's your
target.

Any way, though, always let bonsai be enjoyable and a good way to meet
the challenge of the years as they go by.
History of Bonsai
Although the term ' Bonsai' is Japanese, the art he portrays originated in
the Chinese empire. By the year 700 AD, the Chinese had begun the
prac ce of' punsai' by using special techniques for growing dwarf trees in
containers.
Ini ally, only the elite of society performed pun-tsai with na ve plants and
trees distributed across China as lavish gi s. During the Kamakura period,
when Japan adopted most of China's cultural symbols, the art of growing
trees in containers was introduced in Japan. The Japanese established
Bonsai along certain lines due to the influence of Zen Buddhism and the
fact that Japan is only 4 per cent larger than mainland China. The scope of
landscape types was therefore much more limited. Many well-known
methods, styles and tools have been built from Chinese origins in Japan.
Although it has been known to a limited extent outside Asia for three
centuries, it is only recently that Bonsai has widely spread outside its
homelands.

History Of Bonsai In China

Shallow basins or fla ened bowls"pen" or "pan" or "pun" have been made

of earthenware in what we have been calling China since about 5,000 years
ago. A thousand years later, during the Chinese Bronze Age, these were
among the preferred types to be replicated in bronze for religious and
poli cal ceremonial purposes. Approximately 2,300 years ago, the Chinese
Five Agents Theory (water, fire, wood, iron, and earth) spun off the concept
of miniature replica energy. By recrea ng a mountain on a reduced scale,
for instance, a student can concentrate on its magical proper es and gain
access to them. The further the reproduc on was in size from the original,
the more magically efficient it was likely to be. Two hundred years later,
new aroma cs and incense imports took place under the Han Emperor as a
result of the newly opened trade with its neighbors. A new type of vessel
was made, incense burners in the shape of mountain peaks that rose
above the waves and symbolized the abodes of the Immortals, the then-
popular concept of the legendary Blessed Islands. Primarily made from
silver, ceramic or gilded bronze, some of these burners sat on small pen
dishes, either to capture warm embers or to carry a miniature symbolic
sea. The transparent lids of these burners were o en coated in stylized
images of legendary figures scaling the sides of the forested hills. Out of
the perfora ons in the lids, incense smoke erupted out of the cave
openings like mysterious vapors in the full-size mountains. Many later lids
made of stone are believed to have been found with lichens or moss
already a ached natural miniature landscapes.

The Idea Of The Potency Of Replicas In Miniature Date Back 2300 Years
In China

From about 706 AD comes the tomb paintings of Crown Prince Zhang
Huai, which included representations of two ladies-in-waiting
miniature stone scenes of small plants in shallow dishes. The first
published examples of these pun wan trays were written at this time.
Since the development and care of these had already been quite
advanced, the maturation of the art has taken place (but we have not
yet discovered its documentation). Including deceptioLater collected
and then containerized trees are believed to have been peculiarly
shaped and twisted wild specimens. They are "sacred" rather than
"profane" because the trees could not be used for any real, normal
purpose, such as timber. Their gruesome poses are reminiscent of
yoga-like postures that constantly bent back on themselves, re-
circulating vital fluids, and said to be the source of long life.

Over the years, different regional types would be built throughout the
large country with its many diverse landscapes; earthenware and
ceramic containers would replace porcelain ones on wooden stands;
and attempts would be made to mold trees with bamboo frames or
brass wire or lead strips. Most poets and authors each gave at least
one depiction of a tree and/or mountain miniature landscape, and
many painters included a dwarf potted tree as a sign of a cultivated
man's lifestyle. After the 16th century, they were called pun tsai or
"tray planting." However, the word pun Ching ("tray landscape," now
called penjing) did not come into use until the 17th century.

History Of Bonsai In Japan

It is assumed that the first tray ecosystems were carried from China to
Japan at least 12 hundred years ago (as cultural souvenirs). A
thousand years ago, the first long work of fiction in Japanese included
this passage: "The[ full-size] tree left to grow in its natural state is a
coarse thing. It is only when it is kept close to human beings who
design it with loving care that its shape and style develop the ability to
move us. "Read the article on the Bonsai tree for more detail. The first
detailed depictions of these were not made in Japan until about eight
hundred years ago. All the Chinese intrigued the Japanese, and at
some point the Chinese Chan Buddhism (Indian meditative Dyhana
Buddhism mixed with indigenous Chinese Daoism) was also introduced
and became Zen Buddhism in Japan. Finding beauty in extreme
austerity, Zen monks with less land shapes as a template created their
tray landscapes along certain lines so that the world could be
portrayed by a single tree in a bowl. The Japanese pots are usually
smaller than those on the mainland, and the resulting style of planting
was called hachi-no-ki, literally the bowl tree. A folk tale from the late
1300s, about the starving samurai who sacrificed his last three dwarf
potted trees to bring warmth to a wandering monk on a cold winter
night, became a popular Noh theater piece, and through the years,
photographs from the story would be portrayed in a number of media
formats, including woodblock prints.

Anybody, from the military leader shoguns to normal farmers, grew

some kind of tree or azalea in a pot or abalone shell. At the end of the
18th century, a collection of typical pine dwarf potted trees began to
take place annually in the capital city of Kyoto. Connoisseurs from five
provinces and surrounding areas can take one or two plants to the
show in order to introduce them to tourists for rating and judgement.
The town of Takamatsu (home of Kinashi Bonsai Village) had already
built part-shaped pine fields as a major source of income.
Around the year 1800, a group of Chinese art scholars gathered near
Osaka City to discuss recent trends in miniature plants. Their dwarf
trees are called "Bonsai" (Japanese version of the Chinese term pun-
tsai) in order to distinguish them from the regular hachi-no-ki that
many people cared about. The bone or the pen is shallower than that
of the Hachi pot. It shows that at least some farmers had a fair chance
of meeting the horticultural needs of dwarf-potted trees in smaller
containers. Bonsai has now been seen as an art issue, a craft approach
that replaces the religious / mythical approach of history.

Numerous sizes and types have been developed over the next century;
catalogs and books on trees, tools and pots have been published;
some early formal exhibits have been held. Copper and iron wire also
substituted the hemp fibers to produce the crops. Containers made in
China were assembled to Japanese specifications and the number of
hobbyists increased.

After the Great Kanto Earthquake that destroyed the Tokyo area in
1923, a group of thirty families of amateur growers settled in Omiya
twenty miles away and set up what would become the hub of
Japanese Bonsai culture; Omiya Bonsai village. In the 1930s, before
Bonsai's formal exhibits became recognised, an official annual show
was held at the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art. A long recovery
from the Pacific War saw Bonsai grow and developed as an important
indigenous art. Training courses, more series, books and magazines,
and workshops for foreigners spread the word. The use of custom
power tools, coupled with an intricate knowledge of plant physiology,
has allowed a few masters to switch from a craft approach to a
genuinely creative design phase of art. Recently, Bonsai seen too often
as a nostalgic pastime for the elderly has even become popular among
younger generations with easy to care mini trees and landscapes,
unwired and wild.

History Of Bonsai In The West

In 1604, there was a report in Spanish of how Chinese immigrants in the
tropical islands of the Philippines were growing small ficus trees into small
pieces of coral. The early English discovery of dwarf po ed trees (root-
over-rock in a pan) in China / Macau was reported in 1637. Subsequent
records from Japan in the next century were also root and rock samples.
Dozens of travelers included some men on of dwarf trees in their Japanese
or Chinese accounts. Many of these have been reproduced in book reviews
and excerpted ar cles in widely distributed magazines. Japanese miniature
trees were displayed at the Philadelphia Exhibi on in 1876, the Paris
Exhibi ons in 1878 and 1889, the Chicago Exhibi on in 1893, the St. Louis
World Fair in 1904, the Japan-Britain Exhibi on in 1910, and the San
Francisco Exhibi on in 1915.

The first European language book (French) on Japanese dwarf trees was
published in 1902 and the first in English in 1940. Yoshimura and Halford's
Miniature Trees and Landscapes waslaunched in 1957. It would become
known as the "Bible of Bonsai in the West," with Yuji Yoshimura being a
direct link between Japanese tradi onal Bonsai art and progressive
Western approach, resul ng in an elegant and sophis cated transi on to
the modern world. John Naka of California expanded this exchange by
teaching in person and in print, first in America, and then around the
world, further promo ng the use of indigenous media.

It was at this me that the West was presen ng landscapes from Japan
known as the Saikei and the revival from China as the Penjing.
Composi ons with more than one tree type are acknowledged and
recognized as valid crea ons.

Bonsai spread to the West at the end of the 19th century over the years,
minor developments and improvements have been made, par cularly in
the revered old Bonsai nurseries in Japan, which have been brought to our
countries bit by bit by visi ng teachers or returning travel enthusiasts. On
their return to Japan, teachers will immediately try out a new technique or
two in front of students at previously scheduled workshops. New Japanese
techniques could then be further disseminated and this type of living art
con nued to develop.
Most of the earlier books in European languages have, for the most part,
tended more to basic hor cultural skills and strategies for keeping trees
intact. Western science has expanded our understanding of the needs and
processes of living trees and other plants in our composi ons.

Bonsai Basics
For those of you who don't understand, Bonsai trees are small trees that
are kept in pots. The term bonsai actually refers to the Japanese prac ce of
growing and growing small li le trees that essen ally resemble a large
tree. This is a tradi on that has been going on for over a thousand years.

Such trees look amazing and unique, and they're pre y easy to grow and
take care of. If you're interested in growing them yourself, you've come to
the right place. Let's take a closer look at how to grow, plant, take care of,
and/or buy bonsai trees.

There are many different' types' of bonsai trees that you can have, and
then we'll address some of the most common ones you'll come across.

This style of bonsai tree grows upright, but s ll has gentle curves in its
trunk. As the trunk rises out of the dirt, it comes out at an angle first, and
then bends back and forth a few mes before reaching the top of the tree.

You've most likely seen this type of bonsai tree, as it is typically the most
common. It is ideal for beginners–it is suitable for most species of trees,
par cularly deciduous and flowering trees such as elms, plums, quinces
and maples.

For this style, the tree truck is completely straight and upright and has a
no ceable taper with the widest part of the trunk at the base of the tree.
This is usually supported by an adequate radial nebari (or root structure).

This style is found naturally in nature in some species of trees, such as

different conifers, and when a tree grows in an open area without having
to compete for light.
They are incredibly royal and meless, and will add a great deal of value to
the area in which you cul vate them.

Slan ng Style (Shakan)

This style of bonsai tree consists of a slanted trunk which grows at an angle
to the ground on which it grows it looks like a tree was blown sideways
with a massive gust of wind. While being very different and odd looking,
this is a great conversa on starter when you decide to grow a bonsai tree
in this par cular style.

How To Get Started

There Are Several Steps To Start Growing Your Own Bonsai Tree.
1. Make sure you pick the right tree species for the environment in which
you live.
Bonsai trees can be made from almost any type of tree, including some
tropical plants and other varie es that may not be appropriate for all types
of weather. Because of this, you're going to want to do some research to
see what hardiness zone your area is in, and what trees are best for that
spot.
If you're s ll not sure what you should pick, the workers at your local
nurseries and garden supply stores will help you choose as well.
Some of the popular favorites for growing bonsai trees include the juniper
tree, which is a hardy evergreen tree that can thrive in any northern
climate and in some even warmer regions. Spruces, cedars and pines are
also very popular choices, and we love to use trees such as Japanese
maples, elms and oaks. As for tropical plants, jade and snow roses are
great choices for indoor bonsai trees in temperate or cool climates.
2. Indoor or outdoor?
While this may not seem like a huge decision, you should definitely know if
you're hoping to have an outdoor or indoor bonsai tree because their
needs are going to change dras cally.
Indoor trees generally get less light and stay dry, while outdoor areas get
plenty of natural sunlight and rain. For this reason, there are some varie es
that you should keep inside / outside depending on what they are.
Popular outdoor choices: oak, birch, beech, ginkgo, elm, larch, juniper, and
cypress tree.
Popular indoor choices: Gardenia, Kingsville boxwood, Ficus, Serissa and
Hawaiian parasol trees.
3. Make sure you're talking about the scale of everything.
Bonsai trees come in a wide variety of sizes. You can have full- grown trees
that are as low as 6 inches, and anywhere up to 3 feet tall, it just depends
on the tree species you're going for.
Nevertheless, you're not supposed to stop by considering the size of the
real bonsai tree. You also need to think about the room you have at your
house, at your office, and outside, as well as the size of the tank you have
for it, and the amount of sunlight you have at your finger ps.
4. When you're ready to choose a plant to become your bonsai tree, make
sure you're looking for a good, vibrant plant with a new, green leaf / needle
color.

Nonetheless, when you decide to grow it from a seed, know that you will
have much more control over its growth at every point of its crea on. On
the other hand, however, you're going to have to wait up to five years to
grow from a seed to a full-grown tree. That choice is really only if you want
something to invest in over a couple of years and don't mind having the
final product right away.

You can also grow your bonsai tree by cu ng. A cu ng is simply a branch
cut from a growing tree and transplanted into new soil to begin a seperate
(but 100% gene cally iden cal) plant. This is a great compromise if you
want to have a lot of control over tree growth, but don't want to start with
a seed.
5. Choose the right pot for your bonsai tree.

Bonsai trees are planted in pots that will limit their produc on. Though,
you will have to choose a pot that is large enough to hold enough of the
soil to cover the roots of the plant. First, keeping the right plant in mind
would make this process a lot easier.

If you water the bonsai tree, it will absorb moisture from the soil through
its roots. If you don't have enough soil in the bowl, the tree won't be able
to hold the moisture it needs.

At the top of the length, you'll also want to make sure you make one or
two drainage holes at the bo om of the pot. It prevents root rot and keeps
your tree safe.

A lot of beginners choose to grow their bonsai trees in more plain, prac cal
containers, then they transfer them to more aesthe cally pleasing when
the trees are fully grown. This is a great idea if you have a fragile tree
species to work with, because it makes you stop buying a more expensive
bowl before you know that it's going to be a success.

Growing Bonsai From Seed

In Japanese: "Misho"-Growing Bonsai from tree seeds can be very

rewarding and gives you full control as soon as possible. Although it takes a
long me (at least three years) to start working on a tree, this is the only
way to grow a Bonsai right from the start!

First of all, the seeds need to be obtained; you can pick them from the
trees in your area or you can choose to purchase them from a (online)
store. Keep in mind that there is no such thing as special "Bonsai tree
seeds" as Bonsai is made from ordinary trees.
When you harvest seed from trees growing in your local area, plan ng
seeds in the fall will do just fine, but if you want to plant seeds out of
season (for example, during the spring), or if you buy seeds online, or if
you want to grow seedlings from trees that do not grow in your local
climate, a process called "stra fica on" may be required.

Stratification

Seeds of many tree species are gene cally programmed to live through
winter and germinate in early spring to maximize the length of their first
growing season. In fact, most of these seeds will only be able to grow a er
a cold season.

So if you want to plant seeds for Bonsai, it might be appropriate to

replicate the cold season by storing the seeds in a cold place for a few
weeks-augmen ng the germina on rate significantly. The seed of most
tree species must first be soaked in water and then stored in the
refrigerator for one or two months. The exact amount of me and
op mum temperature will depend on the tree species, and a quick online
search will give you an accurate answer.

To beginners, this might be a bit complicated, so it's advisable to collect

seeds from tree species found near you, hold the seeds out and plant them
early in the spring, just like Mother Nature does!

Where?

As men oned earlier, in the autumn, you can gather seeds from trees
growing in your field. Seeds such as chestnuts and acorns are easy to find
in the woods. Seeds from conifers can be found within pine cones. Once
you have collected the pine cones, you need to store them in a warm place
so that they can release the seeds from between the scales. Seeds of
different tree species are also readily available for purchase in (online)
Bonsai stores.

When?
The best me to sow seeds is fall, so you'll follow nature's me schedule,
and the young seedlings will have a full summer to grow a er germina on
in early spring. This also ensures that you don't need to think about
stra fica on.

From seedling to Bonsai

Before we start to propagate trees from seed, let's first look at the stages
of seedling growth. Growing Bonsai from seed will be a test of your
endurance, but it's a great way to style Bonsai trees without the need to
prune thick branches (which is o en inherent in styling Yamadori or
nursery stock).
How To Pot Your Bonsai Tree

To plant your tree in the container in which you want it to grow, you would
first want to extract it from the container in which you purchased it and
clean it from its roots. Be very vigilant when cu ng the tree so as not to
damage or break its main stem –try using a po ng shovel to pry the plant
out without damaging it.

Make sure you brush away any dust that has se led in and around the root
system of your trees. You can use chops cks, tweezers, and root rakes to
make this process a li le easier for you.

You're probably going to want to prune the ps. If their growth is not well
managed, the bonsai tree can try to grow out of its container. Simply cut
off any extremely large, thick roots, as well as any that face upwards from
the root system. It leaves behind a network of thick, thin roots that lies
near the surface of the soil.

Because water is absorbed through the ps of the roots, it is safer to have

a lot of thin root strings in a small container instead of just a few thick
ones.

First, you're going to want to plan the new pot that the bonsai tree is going
into. Make sure that the tree has a founda on of clean, fresh soil that gives
it the height you need. At the bo om of the pot, add a layer of coarse-
grained soil as its founda on, then add a much finer, looser medium soil
above it. Make sure it's a soil that drains well, so the roots won't sink when
it's drained.
At the top of the pot, make sure you leave a small amount of space so that
you can cover the roots of the trees when they are put in the jar.

When po ng a tree, make sure the tree is situated exactly how you want it
to look. A er that, you can cover the roots with the rest of the well-
draining soil to hold it in place. You can also apply a final layer of moss
and/or rocks to a cool aesthe c.

If you have difficulty keeping the tree upright, simply run a strong gage
wire from the bo om of the pot through its drainage holes and e the wire
around the root system to hold it in place.
You might also want to add mesh screens over the drainage holes in the
pot to stop any soil erosion from occurring. It occurs when the water takes
the soil out of the pot through the drainage holes.

Pruning And Shaping

To look right, your bonsai tree will need consistent and regular pruning.
There are also several different types of pruning that need to be done to
make your plant look and feel good.

1. Pruning of esthe cs.

So make sure that you do not do too much harm to the tree or hinder its
growth, you should only prune for esthe c purposes while the tree is
dormant. It usually means during the winter months from November to
February.

Make sure you cut back any large branches that protrude from the tree, as
well as branches with odd twists or ones that are just hideous. To do this,
cut each branch above the node in a posi on that keeps the tree balanced.
Using branch cu ers to keep them looking clean.

If you want the light to be able to filter through the canopy to touch the
lower branches, cut the twigs and branches at the top of the tree. This also
helps you to shape the canopy to the shape and size you like. Use your
branch cu ers to trim any branch out of place so that the canopy is well
balanced and well formed.
When you come across any suckers that are ny offshoots that tend to
grow on the branches or base of the trunk, pick them off with your fingers
to keep the tree looking clean and trimmed.

2. Pruning for Maintenance

There are several steps to take for the general maintenance of your bonsai
tree, which should be done regularly.
Make sure you remove all the dead wood / weeds / leaves from around the
bonsai pot and from the tree itself. Carefully remove all the weeds, too, but
do so gently so that you do not harm the roots of your bonsai.

Always trim any broken or twisted branches you find. Branches that cross
each other that leave wounds that will cause diseases or pests in the wood
of the tree. This also applies to broken branches, which should be carefully
removed to allow the tree to devote all its energy to new growth.

You should also cut off the twigs so that they only have between 3 and 4
nodes. Nodes are the joints that make the leaves grow out of, and there
shouldn't be more than four of them on each branch. Simply make a clean
cut across the remaining nodes with the branch cu ers.

You can, of course, do this all year round for this form of pruning, but
par cularly during the more ac ve months for the bonsai trees. Usually,
spring and summer is the best me to do this.

Once your tree has been pruned, you should find some a ercare.

Protect any wounds that come from wound paste pruning. This will stop
too much salt from coming out, and it will help to heal the wounds.
Squeeze a small amount of cream on your gloved hand and rub gently over
the cut.

To promote new growth, water your bonsai tree immediately a er it has

been pruned. Fill it deeply to absolutely moisten the soil. Normally, you're
going to want to water your tree lightly once a day and a li le more a er
pruning.
Best Bonsai Plants

1. Japanese Maple

Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) is chosen for bonsai mainly because of

its lobed leaves, color and adaptability to the bonsai. There are also several
varia ons, and the bonsai tree can be built in a variety of styles.

Posi on: Japanese Maple prefers a warm, airy posi on but should be put
in a light shade during high midday heat to prevent damaged leaves. The
Japanese Maple is resistant to frost even when trained as a bonsai, but
should be protected from heavy frost (below-10 ° C/14 ° F).

2. Bodhi tree (FicusReligiosa)

Did you know that FicusReligiosa was the tree under which Buddha
received enlightenment? Because of this, it is commonly referred to as the
holy fig, the peepal tree, and the Bo-tree. It's an amazing bonsai.

Bodhi is a strong plant that grows rapidly and forms aerial roots. It has
beau ful, polished, heart-shaped foliage that starts in bronze, which later
turns into glossy green as the leaves mature. Even, in the bonsai
community, the leaves can be easily reduced.

Posi on: As a tropical tree that loves the sun and the water. Place in a
loca on that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day (the be er) and
protects against freezing temperatures.
Styles: Formal upright, Informal upright, Cascade, Semi-cascade, Broom,
Rock-over-root, Slan ng, Twin-trunk, Litera and Banyan styles.

3. Cotoneaster horizontalis

Cotoneaster horizontalis is o en shaped in a cascade style or planted on a

ground, so-called' rock cotoneaster.' It is a deciduous shrub that is suitable
for bonsai cul va on because of its tolerant nature (very suitable for
beginners), this looks great because of its long-las ng shade, it grows best
in temperate regions.
Posi on: It can be grown in full sun or in par al shade, but flowers can
be er be grown in full sun. Frost protec on is needed if long cold spells are
expected.
Informal Upright, Slan ng, Cascade, Semi-Cascade, Litera , Team plan ng,
Saikei

4. Baobab

A tall, giant, fabled African tree, the great baobab is truly adaptable to
become a bonsai. Easy to grow and sustain in warm climates, the bonsai
baobab tree needs to be kept in colder areas in winter. Read all about
growing this beau ful tree here.
Posi on: When you live in a warm climate, just leave it in the light, the
largest succulent in our world will grow. But if you live in a temperate zone,
put the pot indoors in the winter.
Styles: broom, casual upright, baobab-style
 5. Common Beech (Fagussylva c)

This tall, magnificent tree becomes a small to medium-sized bonsai

specimen, best shown in the shape of an upright vine. Young shoots can be
quickly formed and in autumn the leaves turn bright green. Keep in mind
that the beech tree is a fast grower that needs me to grow.

Posi on: Keep your beech tree bonsai in a semi-shaded posi on to full sun,
providing a space that is shielded from the intense a ernoon sun,
especially in summer.

Styles: Group plan ng, Formal upright, Formal upright, Slan ng, Cascade,
Semi-Cascade.
 6. Boxwood

Boxwood can also become a bonsai, not only for hedging. Super adaptable
to containers, every species of this genus is easy to maintain and grow and
becomes a beau ful bonsai. If you're going to make your first bonsai, try
boxwood.

Posi on: The boxwood is an outdoor plant that is robust and durable and
withstands both the sun and the rain, but in its natural environment it
grows under the canopy of trees so that it is be er to place the plant in
par al sunlight. Since boxwoods do not withstand severe cold
temperatures, they protect the plant in winter.

Styles: casual upright, minimal ver cal, slan ng.

 7. Pomegranate

Pomegranate is one of the nicest fruit trees and the simplest one to make a
bonsai. Because it has a shallow root system, it adapts well to the
environment of bonsai. This sturdy plant with an eye-catching bark,
beau ful red flowers and colorful fruit looks gorgeous.

Posi on: It should be kept outdoors in full sun for the whole year except
when the temperature falls below 41 F (5 C) to take the tree indoors in a
bright posi on.

Styles: Informal Upright, Semi-Cascade, Mul -Trunk, Slan ng, Deadwood

and Twisted Trunk.
 8. Juniper

Junipers are one of the most common bonsai trees. It is a genus of more
than 50 species of evergreen coniferous shrubs, of which "Juniper
ProcumbensNana" is very common among beginners who are just star ng
to make a bonsai tree. All junipers are easy to train and take care of and
make a very beau ful bonsai.
Posi on: Junipers are unable to stay indoors. It's best to put them in a
sunny spot with the shade of the a ernoon sun. Cover the tree once the
temperature drops below 14 F in winter.
styles: Junipers can be made in a variety of styles, including casual upright,
slan ng, semi-cascade, full-cascade, dri wood, twin and triple trunk.

9. FicusRetusa

It's possibly one of the most beau ful trees among tropical bonsai growers.
Easy to design, immune to negligence and mistake, and probably the best
plant for both beginners and experienced bonsai growers. You will learn
the fundamentals of bonsai making experiments and shaping them in
different styles.
Posi on: Keep it in par al sunlight when rising in warm climates. You can
also keep it indoors, par cularly in a cool temperate climate, in a well-lit
spot, but out of direct sunlight.

Styles: Formal upright, Informal upright, Slan ng, Cascade, Semi-cascade,

Broom, Rock-over-root, Clasp-to-rock, Twin-trunk, Clump, Sinuous, Straight
Line, Team plan ng, Saikei.

10. Ficus Benjamina

Benjamin Ficus (FicusBenjamina) is one of the most common plants you
should consider. It is a magnificent evergreen tree that makes a wide
canopy of fine branches cascade down to the ground, giving it the name of
the weeping fig.

Posi on: It can be grown outdoors or indoors on a window sill that gets
bright light.
Styles: Formal upright, Cascade, Semi-cascade, Broom, Rock-over-root,
Informal upright, Slan ng, Twin-trunk, Clump and Team plan ng.
11. Jade
Jade tree (Crassulaovata) is a succulent plant with dense, pulpy stems and
leaves. Jade is an easy-to-care evergreen bonsai. Its hardness and thick
trunk give it a quick, mature look.

Posi on: Jade tree can be grown indoors, although it loves sunny areas and
high temperatures. Keep temperatures above 41 F (5 C) or all the me.

styles: It can be trained in a variety of styles, including casual upright,

clump, slan ng and rock-root.

12. Crape Myrtle

Crape myrtle is one of the finest bonsai trees. The key features are the
elegant branch shape, the showy flowers of yellow, white or purple, and
over it shed outer layers of bark from me to me, and the color of the
underlying bark can vary from black, rusty brown to almost red.
Posi on: Crepe Myrtle loves the full sun for flower crea on. Although it
can be kept indoors on a sunny window. In winter, keep the temperature
between 45-54 F and low light to promote dormancy. Move it back to good
light in the spring when buds start to swell.

Styles: Cascade, slan ng, root over rock, casual upright, rounded trunk can
be made of this tree.

13. Fukien tea (Carmona retusa)

One of the best plants, Fukien Tea is a great addi on to any bonsai set that
makes a great li le indoor bonsai. The thin, dark-green, shiny leaves have
ny white dots on it. Small white flowers bloom all year round, some mes
producing ny red berries.

Posi on: Fukien Tea is an indoor bonsai but can be kept outside in warm
climates all year round. It wants a warm, sunny place in the building. The
perfect temperature is between 50 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Styles: It's well suited for the casual straight, broom and literate.

14. Chinese elm

One of the most stunning elms, this East Asian plant quickly becomes a
magnificent bonsai. The perfect plant is extremely accommoda ng and
doesn't mind daily pruning and styling.
Posi on: Keep the plant in a posi on that receives the sun in the morning
and in the evening, if necessary. Chinese elm can withstand a wide range of
temperatures, but it doesn't like cold dra s.

Styles: Broom, Informal, Cascade, Semi Cascade

 15. Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea is one of the best bonsai plants in the world. So colorful and
delicate, its vibrant, mul -colored, papery flowers are a rac ve, appearing
incessantly, par cularly in favorable climates. Bougainvillea is growing fast,
its branches are easy to wire and can be made in almost any fashion.
Posi on: Place in a place that receives at least 5-6 hours of sunlight. Secure
it against freezing temperatures.

Styles: Bougainvillea is appropriate for any tradi onal style of bonsai

except the formal upright style.

16. Dwarf Schefflera

Dwarf Schefflera (Scheffleraarboricola) is one of the most common bonsai
indoor trees. It's easy to grow, dry and difficult to kill, making it a perfect
bonsai plant for beginners. It's easy to train and shape aerial roots, it's very
good to make a drama c bonsai style banyan.

Posi on: Place your dwarf Schefflera bonsai in bright, indirect light and
shield from direct sunlight. It can thrive in low light condi ons as well.

Styles: Banyan, Informal Upright, Cascade, Semi-Cascade, Stone over-root,

Clasped-to-rock, Clump, Team plan ng.

17. Indian Banyan (Ficusbenghalensis)

Banyan tree, which is also called “Bargad / Bar” in the local language is the
na onal tree of India. It is one of the largest tree species in the world. The
tree sheds its aerial roots, and as soon as these roots reach the ground,
they develop into a woody trunk. The tree naturally looks aged and
becomes a great bonsai specimen.

Posi on: The tree needs a dry, humid climate to survive. When you live in a
cool climate, you can try to grow it carefully in the winter. Place the plant in
a place that receives sunlight all day long, but shade in the evening.

Style: Banyan style, Informal upright, Cascade style, Semi-Cascade style.

18. Adenium
The thick bulbous trunk, the bright blooms and the glossy foliage make the
Adenium a perfect tree for bonsai. This flowering tree produces quick and
natural bonsai with minimal effort.
Posi on: requires a sunny posi on shielded from the wind. If growing in a
non-tropical climate, take the tree inside and keep the temperature at
about 50 degrees Fahrenheit in winter.

Style: Informal Upright, Twin Trunk, Slan ng, Cascade, Baobab type.

19. Olive
Olive bonsai is easy to take care of and very sturdy, so it is a good choice
for bonsai use. They have a smooth trunk and a strong branch structure
that makes them a beau ful bonsai.

Posi on: Hardy in zone 9, an olive tree can be successfully grown as an

indoor plant, but it's best to keep it outdoors in full sun.

Style: Formal upright, Informal upright, Slan ng, Cascade, Semi-cascade,

Rock-over-root, Clasped-to-rock, Twin-trunk, Clump, Straight Line, Team
plan ng, Saikei.

20. Azalea
Azalea is a must-have Bonsai that looks incredibly stunning. It is renowned
for its growth habit and boun ful flowers that come in many different
colors, forms, sizes and designs. It requires a lot of upkeep and well-
growing acid soil.

Posi on: Azalea wants to be outside in a sunny spot that gets shade in the
a ernoon to grow its beau ful blossoms.Styles: Root-over-rock, Informal
Upright, Slan ng, Semi-Cascade, Windswept, Mul ple Trunks.

21. Guava
Not very common, but the guava tree is an excellent bonsai and does not
require too much care or maintenance. It's even possible to make it grow
fruits that make a stunning display.

Posi on: The guava is a tropical plant and should therefore be put outside
in a sunny spot. If you live in a temperate zone, keep your bonsai indoors in
winter.

Stye: Informal Upright, Formal Upright, Slan ng, Semi-Cascade, Broom

 22. Pine

The pines are making a beau ful bonsai. These are not suitable for
beginners, however. Pines are classic bonsai trees, and their rugged, rough
bark and trunk make them look mature.

Posi on: Posi on the pine outdoors in full sun, where the air circula on is
great.

Style: Formal upright, Informal upright, Slan ng, Cascade, Semi-cascade,

Literate, Rock-over-root, Clasped-to-rock, Twin-trunk, Clump, Team
plan ng, Saikei.

Bonsai Pest Protection

Bonsai trees, like many other plants, need protec on from hideous
chewing, sucking and bi ng insects. These also need to be protected from
many fungi which cause some visually visible problems with many living
parts of the tree.

I believe that the best form of treatment is to ensure the health of the
plant; in this way, you encourage the tree itself to handle most of the
a acks. A healthy plant will have sufficient water, it will be suitably fed,
have good air circula on around the foliage and healthy roots growing in a
well drained growing medium.

One of the most common problems today is not to know the best loca on
for your tree. This has emerged because stores o en have trees under
cover or even indoors. Customers then presume that the tree must stay
inside when it is not an indoor tree. Make sure someone who is properly
informed (and o en this is not a shop assistant) is an indoor or outdoor
tree.

Yo u r E n v i r o n m e n t

I say, when I refer to your se ng, the area or place where you hold your
trees. Few bonsai ar sts that I know to give some thought to the hygiene
and cleanliness of these spaces. This is very different from the approach
taken by qualified nurseries to rou ne disinfec on.

It is important to consider and take ac on to reduce the level of poten al

sources of fungal and bacterial infec ons. Some of the conven onal
therapies used for this are not biodegradable and are poten ally
carcinogenic.

Nevertheless, I have been able to source a service which has only been
available to the commercial nursery and agricultural sector called Sporekill
un l recently. Sporekill is a material that can be used to disinfect surfaces,
containers and even sprayed (with sufficient dilu on) directly onto crops. I
highly recommend adding Sporekill to your arsenal to stop and eliminate
problems from arising and compounding in your bonsai growing spaces.

Common Pests

The following are the most growing pests of interest to bonsai ar sts that
you are most likely to encounter.

ANTS:

Ants on your bonsai can be used as an indicator that you are most likely to
have aphids as well. This is because ants also bring aphids ' eggs for proper
vegeta ve growth in order to eventually develop the sugary secre on they
create called "Honeydew." Usually, ants themselves are not a concern,
however if you see them in large numbers around your tree, they may have
developed a nest in the container, in which case they should be handled.

SY MPTOMS

As already men oned, ants themselves are usually not a concern, but they
o en bring aphid eggs and fungi, such as the "black sooty mold."
Some mes they will even build nests in your bonsai pots, and in the
process of doing so, they will excavate a lot of your growing media.

Treatment
If you do find an ant nest, it may be a warning that your trees are not being
properly irrigated, but this cannot be reversed in the case of some species,
such as pines, which prefer drier growing condi ons. Actually immersing
the pot in a tub of water will not solve the problem permanently either.
You will need to use a pes cide such as Koinor as a soil drench to avoid
many other common pests. You may also be using Kemprin or Bungy.
Anthracnose

Anthracnose is, in reality, a broad term referring to a number of different

plant diseases that are especially damaging to trees and are caused by
fungi. Anthracnose, which causes fungus, grows on plant material
inoculated with it and spreads easily and quickly. Proliferate under dry,
humid condi ons that will intensify our regular watering regime.
Anthracnose is a threat whenever the environmental condi ons are right
and new leaves are growing. Once the leaves are mature (become
leathery), they become resistant. It is true that strategies such as
defolia on increase your risk as well as overhead watering when the
weather is warm.
SYMPTOMS

The symptoms of anthracnose are very easy to spot-when you know what
to look for. However, in my opinion, most people do not properly iden fy it
and a ribute early signs of anthracnose to leaf scorch and fire, other
fungal problems, and more. It is easy to spot curling, distor ng and leaves
that tend to be completely or par ally charred. As the disease worsens,
you may find brown patches or large spots on the leaves with brown
patches growing occur when the flower is no ced. In my experience, only
deciduous trees have been affected, not evergreens or conifers. As a result,
every maple is par cularly prone but also at risk: privets, pomegranite,
firethorns, hackberry (cel s), flowering quinces, stone spray and, to a
lesser degree, elms.

Anthracnose does not immediately destroy the bonsai tree, but if le

unchecked, it will weaken, rendering it more suscep ble to other fungal,
pest, or bacterial a acks. In consequence, this can lead to the death of a
branch and, ul mately, to the loss of a tree. I know of a few other
competent bonsai enthusiasts who have lost their trees as a result of this
problem.
TREATMENT

The best advice is to treat the condi on as soon as possible so that it does
not worsen and spread further to neighboring plants. It may be worth
separa ng contaminated plants before you know that you have the
problem under control.
Chemical sprays containing the following ac ve ingredients have been
screened for anthracnose: mancozeb, chlorothalonil, propiconazole,
methyl thiophanate and copper fungicides. I prescribe regular treatments
for Unizeb (containing the ac ve ingredient Mancozeb) together with SK
Eco Oil (as a we ng agent and a general fungicide). My own and several
others have had good results with Unizeb and Sporekill. Chronos is another
drug licensed for anthracnose because it contains prochloraz.

APHIDS
It's one of the most popular bonsai tree pests. Aphides suck plant sap from
the grain, but they can carry diseases as well. Typically, aphids are yellow,
but you can also see them in gray or brown. Usually, you're going to find
them on new stem growth or the bo om leaves. Since these pests can
cause considerable damage to your bonsai tree in a short period of me, it
is a good idea to look out for them during the busy growing season when
you do your watering rounds.

SYMPTOMS

The poor leaves and roots are usually signs of aphids assaults. Many new
growth can exhibit curling or other deformi es. Aphid also produces a
moist, sugary substance called "honeydew." Honeydew is usually
consumed by bees, so you will typically see the ants running up and down
the trees as they catch the dew. As a product of the dew, called the "black
soot mold," the growth quickly develops.

TREATMENT

Clean off infected growth with a jet of water if the popula on is not too
high. You may also rely on the natural enemy of aphids; ladybirds and more
specifically their larvae, but this may be too late to prevent the tree from
weakening as a result of these sap sucking pests.

BORER

Tree borers are made up of many different insects that lay their eggs on or
under the bark of a tree. When the eggs hatch, the developing larvae chew
their way into the living ssue or fiber of the tree wreaking havoc.

Symtoms

As the larvae chew their way through your tree on their way to maturity,
their o en vicious appe tes will weaken the tree, as the plant ssue they
consume is vital to the normal func oning of the tree. If the damage is
undiscovered and untreated, it will be such that whether you try to bend a
branch or root, it may snap under pressure.

If you don't see an adult insect on your tree, you'll almost certainly see the
signs that it was there and that its eggs had hatched; ny holes in the bark
le by the growing larvae. The holes may be of different shapes, and you
may also see signs of some internal excava ons by a sawdust lying at or
near the base of the tree.

Treatment
Trea ng trees where you already have a problem with the borer can be a
real challenge. If the visible evidence of their existence is important, it is
best to destroy (by burning) the tree because the internal damage will
never recover. Therefore, unless you can do harm to the tree, the a empt
to remove the borers and the threat that they will strike neighboring trees
is not worth it.

Borers, unlike most insect pests, are evidently more likely to a ack or
exploit weakened trees; especially heavily pruned trees. It is very
important to seal these cuts, as it is through these open wounds that
borers can gain easy ini al entry into the tree.

Many chemical treatments may have an effect on trees with a small

infesta on, but if the tree is contaminated, systemic treatment may have
li le or no effect. A tree that is properly treated with a systemic pes cide
such as Koinor or Plant Care should prevent borers from being killed as
insects that feed on such plants. But, if you missed preven ng the adult
female from laying eggs and the borers are already ac ve inside the plant,
you can either try to kill the larvae by repeatedly inser ng and removing a
piece of wire. Instead, you can use Plant Care in a syringe or squirt it into
tunnels because it is not only systemic, but also touch (it is the contact
capacity that is now being used).

M E A LY B U G S

Mealy bugs are easily iden fied as small white fuzzy insects. In fact, this
white "co on ball" is a waxy covering which mealy bugs use to protect
themselves. They are usually found in groups, except for the Australian
bug, which is usually found as an en ty. (There may well be several
Australian bugs in a single tree, however) Mealy bugs are usually found on
the underside of branches or in groups of leaves. The form of mealy bug is
in the root zone of your bonsai tree. When re-po ng, it's a good idea to
check the roots of these bugs.
SYMPTOMS

Your tree's growth will be stunted as the insects suck the sap. Leaves may
show signs of drooping, and if the infesta on is bad enough, the leaves will
actually turn yellow and die. Mealy bugs can also cause the crea on of
black sooty molds.
Treatment

During the dormant growth period (winter) Lime Sulfur is an excellent

remedy not only for scale, but for many other pests and fungi. Koinor, Plant
Care or Seizer are the best treatments during effect

FUNGUS
Most fungi can be iden fied by a white mold that can be found on the
leaves. Some leave orange or brown spots or even blisters sca ered over
the underside of the leaves, which curl up and eventually fall. Others are
s ll targe ng the roots in favorable condi ons, and they can destroy a leaf.
The following are the most frequently known fungi and how to classify
them.

SPECIES AND SYMPTOM:

BLACK SPOT

Black Spot is a common fungus that a acks foliage and presents itself as
black spots or patches on the plant. The infected leaves will not be
restored and will need to be removed from the tree. Watering infected
plants may result in the spread of this fungus.
LEAF SPOT

Leaf Spot is o en confused with Black Spot. Symptoms of infec on is

white, red, brown, or gray spots on leaves, but woody growth, such as
twigs and branches, may also be affected. Once again, infected growth
should be removed as soon as possible and appropriate care should be
applied to the tree.
MILDEW

Mildew is a type of fungus that is prevalent in con nuously damp

condi ons, with li le sunlight and in areas of poor ven la on (so the
bonsai placed indoors is par cularly prone). White "fluffy" growth in the
case of Powdery Mildew, or an unsightly black substance in the case of
Sooty mold, can be seen in the affected areas.
RUST

Another may fungal disease you might find can appear as yellow, orange,
red, or brown foliage distor ons. In the end, these leaves will curl up, die
and fall off.

Treatments include Lime sulfide, which has been the fungicide of choice for
a very long me. Not only is it a broad spectrum fungicide, it also prevents
some common insects such as aphids, scales and mites from
overwintering. Nevertheless, it can only be used during dormant periods,
or your foliage will be destroyed (on deciduous trees). Using Oriusand / or
Odeonas as both broad spectrum fungicides. Orius is systemic and will last
longer. Odeon is a contact drug, so if it is washed away there will be no
more coverage. Alterna ves that can be used throughout the year are the
Rose Protector.

SCALE

Scale bugs come in a variety of colors, from opaque to red, green, brown
and black. When they're small, they're running around the tree, but
eventually they're going to fix the part where they suck the sap. These
some mes appear as bumps on the bark, roots, or leaves. Typically, you
won't find a single scale insect on a tree, usually many of them are grouped
together, but they can also be found spaced apart. Some mes it's easy to
miss them because they s ck to the underside of the vegeta ve material.
You will o en find ants and soot molds on trees that have been polluted
with scales.

SYMPTOMS

The branches will show signs of drooping, and some mes the leaves will
wilt, turning green. Generally, the tree is showing signs of weakness.
TREATMENT

The only solu on is to remove small numbers of scale insects by hand un l

they proliferate. You can try using an insec cide, but it is not always
successful because of the protec ve shell. Pain ng shells with alcohol or
surgical spirits works for minor outbreaks. Several different pes cides
available can combat insect sizes, like Koinor and SK Eco Oil. The la er is a
wonderful, inexpensive item, because it is a paraffin oil that coats and
smothers the bug. Furthermore, it is also a fungicide and we ng agent so
that it can be added to most other treatments.

SLUGS AND SNAILS

Such bugs are like damp condi ons, so they are more widespread during
the rainy season, but they may be present throughout the year. They can
quickly strip off a whole bonsai one night, the moment they're the most
busy. New Cel s and Chinese Hackberry leaves are very prone to a ack
these pests, but the leaves of many other bonsai plants are also a rac ve
to slugs and snails.

Many different natural and chemical-based pellets and granules are

available on the market. You may also want to become a nocturnal hunter
yourself and go outside armed with a torch and a bucket of hot water and
catch the snails that you can find to destroy by tossing them into the mud.

White GRUBS
The root systems of the bonsai trees are invaded by the black, dirty, ugly
looking larvae of many beetles, and o en the signs of an a ack will only be
evident long a er the larva has taken the tree into the thickness of its life!
I'm pre y sure every one of us had a run in with these eggs, which the
birds don't seem to want to feed.

If the roots are eaten by the larvae, you will most likely no ce this by
observing the leaves, which should begin to show signs of wil ng. Proof of
a acks by adult beetles will be chewed leaves with notches in them, not
more rounded signs of snails, slugs or caterpillars. Such chew marks are
going to be sharper and in a kind of U-shape.

TREATMENT
Plant Care is currently the only product on the market that is ac ve against
these pests for an extended period of me. Something else that I can only
say from personal experience, so I'm not sure, is that larvae prefer organic-
rich growing mediums. Since the use of soil-less growing mediums
consis ng mostly of Akadama, pumiceor LECA I no longer experience this
bug, I would strongly suggest that switching to another growing medium
would effec vely fix or resolve this problem altogether.

THRIPS

Thrips are one of the most difficult pests to find as they are small. Sadly,
the damage they cause is not as difficult to spot. They eat in large groups
and can climb into the air or, when disturbed, float. Apparently, they first
damage the surface of the leaf and then start sucking the sap.

SYMPTOMS

The silvery, semi-translucent traces that remain can easily be seen a er

thrips have invaded and drained a leaf sap. Some mes you might find black
or brown spots that are falling.

TREATMENT

When using a solvent, the touch form of spray is best applied during the
heat of the day as it is when thrips are more exposed when they explore
their host plant. It is also very important to spray the upper and lower
surfaces of the leaves to break the infesta on process. I tend to use
preven ve treatment to stop these pests from becoming a threat. Using
Koinor to stop and monitor thrips from occurring. Plant Care can be used
for faster ac on and can be run for up to 4 weeks.

WHITEFLY
If a branch infected with whiteflies is disturbed, you will see many small,
white flies sca ered. These are found in large clusters, usually on the
underside of the leaves. Such insects suck sap from the plant and are able
to overwinter, so that's another explana on why lime sulphur spraying in
winter is such a great preventa ve measure not only for whiteflies, but for
many other popular pests. Throughout my experience, olives and false
olives are the trees most affected by whiteflies.

SYMPTOMS

As whitefly sucks the sap from the seed, a sugary substance called
"Honeydew" is secreted. Honeydew, in addi on, can lead to fungal
diseases such as sooty black mould. The damaged trees will be weakened.
In bad infesta ons, the leaves can dry out and turn yellow, and the growth
of the tree will be stunted. The best place to look for them is on the
underside of the leaves near the leaf veins, where the sap is the most
abundant. If the adults have le , they may s ll leave some evidence behind
in the form of their eggs, which they also lay on the underside of the leaf.

TREATMENT

Since I was exposed to Koinor and started using it on my olives, I have

never had any issues with whiteflies again. Nevertheless, in order to use
Koinor, the tree must grow very strongly in order for the roots to absorb
the treatment before it is leached from the growing press. If you already
have an infesta on, it may be safer to spray with Plant Care as it will have
an immediate effect and is also systemic so as to provide months of
protec on.
How To Grow Bonsai Trees Fast
Having plants in the home, such as a bonsai tree, can be an inexpensive
and successful and sa sfying hobby. House plants usually do not require a
lot of upkeep, and they can really spic up the atmosphere of your house.
However, when you strive for speed in growing your bonsai tree, there are
certain steps and conserva on measures that you can take to get your tree
to sprout at the fastest possible me.
Phase 1

Posi on the bonsai tree planted in an area that enjoys direct sunlight for at
least four hours each day. Researchers at bonsaigardener.org report that
bonsai thrives best and healthiest if maintained at or above 60 degrees
Fahrenheit during daylight hours.

Phase 2

Water the bonsai tree every day un l the soil is at its highest. Bonsai trees
grow rapidly in the soil, which is kept warm at all mes.

Phase 3

Fer lize the bonsai plant every three weeks during the growing season,
from early spring to late fall. Follow the dilu on guidelines for the product;
make careful to dilute the fer lizer correctly based on the size of the
po ng plant you used, or else you risk burning the roots of the bonsai
with too much fer lizer.

Phase 4

Re-pot the bonsai plant every two years in the summer, before the growth
cycle starts again. Use the same sort of soil or plan ng pot as you did
before, so that the bonsai is used in its surroundings. Before replan ng, cut
at least one third of the roots from the end to make sure they are not
compressed in the container and are able to absorb nutrients. Depending
on the size of the roots, you may need to cut more to fit into the bowl.
Phase 5

Test your bonsai tree for signs of pest infesta on at each watering. Due to
the constant irriga on requirements of the crop, insects are readily drawn.
Treat some evidence of infesta on with a small dose of pes cide.
How to Keep your Bonsai
The Art Of Tiny Leaves

One of the joys of working with bonsai trees is that the hobby is truly an
art form. Anyone who has worked extensively with bonsai knows that
growing, shaping, and caring for these special plants takes an extreme
amount of pa ence, knowledge, and an eye for ar ulness.

Most people know that the aim of a bonsai tree is to emulate the elegance
of a fully-grown, aged tree in miniature. Not only is the root of the tree
miniaturized by careful collec on, plan ng and pruning methods, but so
are the leaves. Without a method to promote the growth of miniature
leaves, the bonsai tree would tend to be out-of-balance, and the size of the
leaves in contrast to the larger plant would completely destroy the ar ul
impact of realism.

Some wonder how to keep the bonsai tree low. There are several methods
that the bonsai ar st can incorporate that will ideally result in a healthy
bonsai specimen with ny leaves that are so precious. Everything is not
flawless, as with most things. It might be unpredictable. What works for
one tree may or may not work for another tree. Nevertheless, by
introducing techniques that have been tested and established among
bonsai enthusiasts for decades, you significantly increase the chances of
producing, over me, miniature leaves that are so prized by bonsai
aficionados.

Have you ever asked why bonsai farmers were ge ng bonsai leaves
smaller? I've always been impressed at the bonsais, and even more
shocked at the excep onal talent and endurance that people who make
bonsais have. How was it possible for them to create a full-grown tree,
aged seek in miniature form? Did they use some kind of chemical formula,
maybe, or a special cu ng and pruning technique?

As I've read more about bonsais over the years and successfully created a
few designs myself, I've realized that there's no mystery at all. All that is
required is careful planning and a lot of pa ence to successfully achieve
the desired equilibrium in a bonsai tree.

I have found that the methods used to make bonsai leaves larger may not
hold true for all kinds of plants. Each tree has its own characteris cs and
needs. It means that making a bonsai is a con nuous process. And you will
gradually increase your experience so improve your skills in making smaller
bonsai leaves over me.

Follow This Guild

1) Use only small-leaf tree varie es The first sugges on is basically

common sense: using only small-leaf tree varie es. Not all trees have large
fan leaves; in addi on, there are trees with ny leaves or even fine leaves
and stems that make great bonsai trees. Trees with small leaves are Linden,
Birch, Maple, Oak, and Willow trees. Such trees can grow very small leaves
even when le to grow in the wild under normal circumstances.

When these small-leaf trees are bonsai, they can produce much larger
leaves, which ensures that they s ll have the capacity to grow smaller and
smaller leaves, stems and roots. And as these great examples make bonsai
growing ac vi es even simpler, there are s ll growers even hobbyists who
test themselves in growing large-leaf trees. The Sycamore and Magnolia
trees are just some of the most common large-leaf varie es. There are
even some accomplished growers who have made a bonsai palm tree or a
coconut tree just for fun.

2) Put bonsai trees in bright lights Bonsai plants are like any other plant;
they naturally seek light to grow. If there is not enough space, the bonsai
can grow large leaves and more vegeta on just to get more light. Bonsai
plants may even become leggier, again, just to get more light to help their
growth and development.
So, if you want smaller leaves, you need to bring more light to your plants.
Place under direct sunlight and natural light. The crop can automa cally
save its energy by not increasing the leaf area when it is exposed to more
heat. Your bonsai tree will have smaller leaves to grow in compact clusters.

When you live in an area where there is less sunshine and natural light in a
day, you may want to use a that light or lamp to get the best results. Lamps
come in a variety of styles and wa ages. Make sure you buy a healthy
growing light with enough wa age to provide good indoor ligh ng for your
growing bonsai.

3) Make sure to defoliate your bonsai during spring me

If you have bonsai trees that lose their leaves on a daily seasonal basis like
the Chinese Elm and Ficus, you can defoliate your plants during the spring
to produce smaller leaves. Consider this as the final resort, though.

Defolia on extracts some of the leaves of the plants to allow them to

regenerate and grow new leaves. It's very important to find out if the
bonsai tree you want to grow will survive defolia on. This is a good
method for deciduous plants since they lose their leaves on a seasonal
basis. Do not defoliate the bonsai conifer trees because they will never be
able to recover.

When you live in an area where there is less sunshine and natural light in a
day, you may want to use a that light or lamp to get the best results. Lamps
come in a variety of styles and wa ages. Make sure you buy a healthy
growing light with enough wa age to provide good indoor ligh ng for your
growing bonsai.

Requirements of plants that may be subject to defolia on Bonsai should be

a deciduous tree Bonsai should be well planted or well developed Bonsai
should be stable, should have regular new leaf growth Bonsai should be
free of rodents, insects and any disease Bonsai should not have decolored
leaves Defolia on should be performed only in mid-spring to allow Tree to
grow.

Only defoliate once a year.

Take note that defolia on is upse ng to a crop and should therefore be
done carefully and only to a healthy plant. Removing the first leaves of the
spring season should be done early so that there is enough room for
healthy new and healthier leaves to develop. You can also partly defoliate,
which simply means that only some of the leaves of the tree will be
replaced. This is a much safer route for new people to defoliate and
cul vate bonsai.

Fill the knife with soap and water. Make sure this is clean of sand, soil and
oils. Wipe with a clean cloth to wash.

Sterilize the scissors with alcohol. Dip it in ethyl alcohol just before you
begin using it.

Choose the region where defolia on is to be performed. If you want to

defoliate fully, split the leaves into pieces. Defoliate a sec on at a me. If
you want to defoliate partly, choose the region you want to defoliate.

Extract the plant from the founda on using the sterile scissors. Leaving
either the pe ole or the leaf stem a ached to the root.

Enable the branch to slip off the tree naturally, because it will quickly dry
up and do so.

Over me, defolia ng the bonsai properly and consistently can result in the
produc on of smaller leaves. Eventually, you will have leaves that are two-
thirds smaller than the full-size normal leaves.
Problems with your Bonsai?Seven Signs of
Trouble
Apr Like pets and children, Bonsai trees are suscep ble to disease and a
variety of other health problems. Sadly, unlike pets or children, Bonsai
does not really have a great way to communicate these issues. So one of
the big challenges to Bonsai ownership is to know the tree well enough to
understand when it's having trouble.

The good news is that if you watch and check your Bonsai every day, you
can almost always see problems long before they really harm the fruit.
And, if you're a Bonsai novice, we've gathered a quick guide to some of the
biggest indicators that your tree has health issues.

1–Yellow or wil ng seeds.

Wilt or yellowing leaves are a kind of Bonsai similar to a runny nose and
one of the most common signs of health problems. The most common
cause is overwatering, but it may also arise from some viruses,
underwatering, or overexposure to sunlight.

2-The no ceable marks on the stems.

The presence of spots-usually red, yellow, or black-on the leaves of your
tree is almost always a fungal infec on. This is supposed to be treated
asap! Any affected leaves need to be pruned, and it's a good idea to treat
your tree with an -fungal medica on from a gardening store.

3-Ragged edges of the plant.

If your leaves are ragged around the edges, or if you look like something is
taking a bit out of them... That's exactly what's going on. Infesta ons such
as aphids and spider mites will easily take their toll on a tree. Some mes,
so ly soaking the leaves and bark in soapy water can kill the infesta on
without avoiding any visible insects. Otherwise, you're going to need
pes cides.
4-A loose branch or a wiggling plant.
A good Bonsai should cleave closely to its soil and hold firmly in place if
you try to move the root. If it moves about easily, it implies poor root
growth, and bad roots can suffocate the plant. Overwatering is a common
cause here. If not, try adding Bonsai fer liser to the soil.

5-Trooping and wilted buds.

Bad branches are generally the result of poor nutri on and mineral-poor
soil. Also, a round of FRIT mineral supplements will back up the branches.
Certain health problems, such as mold and mildew, may also affect this, so
be prepared to look for a fungicide if the minerals do not improve.

6-The bloated bark.

Bonsai may also have cankers and other "under the hair" diseases, and it is
especially common if the plant has not been adequately treated a er
trimming. All you can do here is slice off the contaminated por on of the
bark and roots, and then use cut paste to promote healthy curing.

7–Loss of leaves and needles during off-season.

If your Bonsai is dropping its leaves in the wrong season, it's almost always
a symptom of a mold or fungal infec on. Once again, a round of fungicide
is the only way to save the tree. Be sure to act immediately, as such
pathogens can spread quickly, or even hop from one Bonsai to another
nearby plant.
The good news here is that most Bonsai, par cularly those grown
exclusively for Bonsai use, are excep onally hardy and are unlikely to get
sick too o en. Once, overwatering or too much heat are the most common
problems, and they can be easily avoided. And if it's properly cared for, the
Bonsai tree will quickly outlive its owner!

If you have any other doubts about Bonsai treatment, please feel free to
contact the experts at BonsaiOutlet with your ques ons!
How To Revive A Dying Bonsai Tree

Wilt, droop and bri le leaves are the real symptoms of a failing bonsai.
Whether it's ignored or sick, dying bonsai needs immediate help if you're
going to save it. Not every bonsai can be rescued from death, but with
some care and a en on, the bonsai may have a shot.

Step 1 Using clean, sterile pruning shears to cut any areas of bonsai that
can not be saved, such as dead or damaged leaves, wilted foliage and
stems. Cut the branches down to the root or the founder.

Step 2 Check to see if the cambiums in the cut areas are yellow and stable.
Expect the bonsai to rebound if the cambium is safe, as this indicates that
the plant is s ll viable. Don't worry if some parts of the cambiums are dry
while others are not.

Step 3 Li the bonsai from the jar to the root prune and repot it. Inspect
the root system completely. Using clean, sterile shears to remove dead,
wilted roots. Delete from the process all contaminated, dead or destroyed
roots. Cut the areas down to the root layer. Step 4 Put the bonsai in a clean
glass jar and fill it with tepid water so that it passes beyond the root
system. Enable the bonsai to sit in the water while you wash the po ng
tank and prepare the soil mixture.

Step 5 Spray the tub with a mild detergent and warm water. Make sure to
remove any molecules that are trapped inside the container. Create an
open and porous soil mixture that has good water retaining proper es.
Incorporate equal amounts of nutrient-rich soil, perlite and pure sphagnum
moss. Mix the things completely with a good loam.

Step 6 Cover each of the drainage holes with a wire mesh and then fill the
tank with your soil mixture a third of the way. Place the bonsai in the bowl
and fill the rest of the way with the dirt. Take your bonsai and put it in a
sink or bucket if it's big enough. Fill the sink with tepid water so that it
reaches approximately 1 inch above the bo om of the tub. Allow your
bonsai to stay in the water un l the bubbles stop rising.

Step 7 Remove the bonsai from the water and allow the water to flow out
of the drainage holes. Place the bonsai in a dry, par ally shaded spot.
Choose a well-ven lated place to support good cell growth.

Step 8 Give the bonsai a li le me to recover. Be vigilant as the bonsai

may wait un l the next growing season before there are any signs of
revitalisa on. Irrigate the bonsai with tepid water, thoroughly and
infrequently. Enable the soil to dry slightly during irriga ons in order to
avoid overwatering.
Bonsai Tree Pots
A tree is a plant, a pot is a pot. It doesn't become a Bonsai un l these two
come together and form a harmony together. A large part of Bonsai's art is
the experience of a tree that has become separated from its roots and now
resides in a bowl.
In addi on, most containers can serve as pots for the Bonsai tree if they
meet certain requirements. Of example, drainage holes and wiring holes
have to be created so that the tree can be connected to the plant. They
may be made from ceramics, cement, plas cs and certain materials (metals
that emit toxins) and they may be manufactured from pots of their own.
But what is called a typical Bonsai pot is that it is made of ceramic and
porcelain and that it is burnt with stoneware, which ensures that it absorbs
and does not hold any water in the material. It is important to the health of
the trees.

The tree's health comes first! A completed Bonsai has o en endured years
of training to adapt the root system to smaller and smaller containers. As
you know, Bonsai learning is a lesson in pa ence and perseverance, and it
certainly applies when it comes to finding the perfect bowl. The most
important thing to keep in mind when searching for a pot is the
measurement required, par cularly the depth of the pot.

Clear Advice On How To Pick A Pot

A large part of Bonsai training is how to be able to spot the right pot. Some
of them go by their gut feeling. But that might be hard for a beginner... So
here are some basic rules and guidelines for you to adhere to. Good luck
and have fun in the search of the future home of your tree.

Masculine or feminine The first thing you need to do is determine if your

tree is male or female. Normally, a tree is a combina on of both, and the
ques on is which gender is dominant. This is absolutely crucial, and
perhaps the most cri cal principle in the selec on of a bowl. Some of the
characteris cs that can support you along the way are that lines, elegance,
sleek bark and sca ered foliage are called feminine. The related masculine
traits are the power, the old bark, the deadwood, the dense trunk and the
thin branches.

Height The general rule is that the pot should be of the same height as the
trunk that is high above the nebari. Oval or rectangular pots are usually 2/3
of the height of the trees. Round or square pots are 1/3 the height of the
tree-unless the canopy is unusually large, then the plant is also ge ng
larger, this is offset by reducing the height of the pot. Trident maples
(which have rapidly growing roots) need the same fruit and flowering trees
as deep containers.

Model The model of the pots must suit the degree of masculinity or
femininity of your plant. The nearer you get, the more harmonious the
final Bonsai experience is. To do this, I have several tools / a ributes to
deal with as a po er. Should be concave, convex, circular, square, oval,
rectangular. Then to change the degree of feminine and masculine I could
work with the op on of rhyme, legs and glaze and decora on.

Generally masculine pots are tall, square, with clean lines and robust legs.
The lip on the edge reinforces the masculinity, and the inner rhyme
strengthens the femininity of the bowl. Feminine pots o en have smooth
curves, slender legs and are rela vely low and elegant. Square bowls, drum
pots are generally considered androgynous.

The most common rule when it comes to selec ng the glaze for a pot is
that the color must show in the leaf. Either in the wood, the shade of the
leaves, the fruit or the flowers. As a result, unglazed brown, gray and earth
tones are usually safe choices. These also provide the tree with energy and
strength. But we can also work in contras ng colors such as blue and warm
yellow. We have harmony and refresh the composi on.
The aim is to create harmony. Observe what decisions others have made
for their marijuana, share with others. A end the exhibits, go to the show,
read the books. Don't hesitate to contact the po er. We are used to draw
drawings or submit sugges ons for a pot that would match your flower.
Note, there isn't just one fi ng pot op on for your vine. It's normally
several, and what's be er is a ma er of your preference, so it's you who
should be happy with your choice first and foremost.

Generally masculine pots are tall, square, with clean lines and robust legs.
The lip on the edge reinforces the masculinity, and the inner rhyme
strengthens the femininity of the bowl. Feminine pots o en have smooth
curves, slender legs and are rela vely low and elegant. Square bowls, drum
pots are generally considered androgynous.

The most common rule when it comes to selec ng the glaze for a pot is
that the color must show in the leaf. Either in the wood, the shade of the
leaves, the fruit or the flowers. As a result, unglazed brown, gray and earth
tones are usually safe choices. These also provide the tree with energy and
strength. But we can also work in contras ng colors such as blue and warm
yellow. We have harmony and refresh the composi on.

The aim is to create harmony. Observe what decisions others have made
for their marijuana, share with others. A end the exhibits, go to the show,
read the books. Don't hesitate to contact the po er. We are used to draw
drawings or submit sugges ons for a pot that would match your flower.
Note, there isn't just one fi ng pot op on for your vine. It's normally
several, and what's be er is a ma er of your preference, so it's you who
should be happy with your choice first and foremost.

If you feel your tree is set, there are a number of ways to locate a plant.
You can get in touch with a po er or make a personalized order. And visit
your local Bonsai nursery, fairs and Bonsai par es, where po ers also sell.
Remember to take all the measurements of the tree and the picture. But if
you're seasoned and know what to look for, there are a lot of social media
auc on sites and communi es where pots switch owners. Is there a
chance, too, that you can make your own pot? There are a lot of videos on
YouTube that teach you how to make a pot in different materials.

Weight is equivalent to fitness. According to the basic rules, the pot should
not be more than 2/3 of the tree's height. But here the pot has departed
from this law because the crown is so tall, almost as large as it is high. It is
therefore huge, not only because of its beauty and harmony, but also
because the branches of the tree lead to an equally large root system that
needs storage. Because of this, the crown of the tree is so huge, almost as
big as it is tall. The op on even went to a green pot that picks up and
amplifies the red autumn leaves (in white).

This is a textbook example of the op mal plant and tree mix. The
composi on is shou ng masculinity. The thin leaves, the dense scarred
bark, matched perfectly with a pot with dry, straight lines on strong legs.
The lip of the rims extends and symbolizes, strengthens, the male's
outpouring of energy. Just the reverse of the feminine bending out, closing.
The obvious choice could have been an unglazed red terraco a, instead of
a red glaze with the same feature. Pine picks up red-orange flesh tones.
This would likely have been my pot op on if I had the assignment. The
rounded sides pick up the gently curved roots to give the structure a more
feminine charm.

Here we went all the way and removed the male lip from the bowl.
Remember that the muscular, huge legs were gone. Personally, I find this is
a very interes ng combina on. You can see how, unlike the first photo
where the tree had a temple-like bowl, the tree now seems to be si ng on
top of a hill. I get the impression that a bag-like pot is a "solid" plant. But
the example clearly indicates that there is more femininity in the tree than
what the eye first sees.

Case studies: Forest planting

This is a mythical composi on well known in Bonsai circles as "the guardian
of the soul." It has a long history and represents the descendants of the
founder. The choice of marijuana represents all of this. Oval design is a
pa ern of tree plan ng. There, the mahogany red waxed layer is
reminiscent of an que furniture and gives the tree beauty and memory.
The pot itself is a precious vessel that raises the age of the trees and the
monarchy without taking any away from them. There is no other
alterna ve than an oval pot for this composi on. But it would have played
with unglazed red and glazed earth shades.
Bonsai Soil
It is important to use the proper soil composition for your Bonsai trees. Soil is necessary to provide the

plants with nutrients, but it also needs to drain properly, provide enough aeration and retain water. Although

most (online) Bonsai stores sell ready-mixed soils, doing so will save you time and allow you to switch tree

species mixtures.

The quality of the soil used directly affects the plant's growth and vigor. We agree that unsanitary crops,

which lack vigor, are very often planted in soft (albeit organic) Bonsai soil. Or worse, it's embedded in normal

garden soil. These soil hardens easily when dry, which does not give much advantage to the growth of

Bonsai, in fact it is very harmful to the plant.

Bonsai substrates

There are a variety of quali es needed in a good soil mix

Good water-reten on

The soil needs to be able to maintain and retain enough water to provide
the Bonsai with moisture between waterings.

Good drainage

The excess water must be able to drain out of the container quickly. Soils
without good drainage are too water-reten ve, lack of aera on and are
prone to salt build-up. Too much water reten on will also allow the roots
to die, destroying the tree.

Be er aera on
Par cles used in a Bonsai mixture should be of sufficient size to allow for
small gaps or air pockets between each par cle. Apart from the need for
oxygen to the roots, it is also important to leave the good bacteria and
mycorrhizae intact so that food processing takes place before the root hair
is harvested and the leaves are sent for photosynthesis.

A par cle-based, well-structured inorganic soil allows for quick runoff of

water and encourages fresh air to penetrate the soil constantly. Compact
organic soil, which lacks any structure, o en lacks aera on and drainage,
which can lead to poor root and plant health and root rot.

Organic Or Inorganic Soils

Soil mixtures are defined as either organic or inorganic. Dead plant ma er,
such as peat or leaf-leaf or bark, is defined as organic soil components. The
(poten al) issue with organic soil materials is that, over me, organic
ma er breaks down and decreases drainage-though at varying speeds
(pine bark is likely the preferred op on for most mixtures). Many po ng
composts, when completely dry, consume very li le water. This is one of
the biggest problems with inexpensive indoor Bonsai trees purchased in
garden centers; you feel you watered the tree, but in reality the water
flows through the soil to the bo om of the pot!

Inorganic soil materials contain li le or no organic ma er, e.g. volcanic

rock, calcite (baked) and fired clay. These consume less nutrients and water
than natural soils, but are suitable for irriga on and aera on.

Soil Components

The most common components of Bonsai soil mixtures are akadama,

pumice, lava rock, natural po ng compost and coarse gravel (grit).

Akadama is hard-baked Japanese clay, made especially for Bonsai

purposes, and available in all Bonsai (online) stores. It has to be si ed
before it is used. Keep in mind that a er about two years, akadam starts to
break down, increasing aera on to some degree. This suggests that
frequent repo ng is necessary or that Akadama should be used in
conjunc on with well-draining soil components. Akadama is quite pricey
and is therefore o en supplemented by inexpensive fired / baked clays
that are easily available in any garden center.

Pumice is a so volcanic material that can well absorb water and nutrients.
When used in a Bonsai soil blend, it tends to retain water and allows the
roots to branch very well.
Lava rock preserves moisture and provides a good structure to the Bonsai
surface. The roots can't grow into the stone of Lava.

Organic po ng compost contains peat moss, pearl and gravel. It has

several drawbacks (retains a lot of water and does not aerate / drain very
well), but as part of a solu on it can be used very well.

Recommended Bonsai Soil Mixtures

Different tree-species require different soil-mixtures, so be sure to check

our Bonsai tree-species guide to find the best combina on for each tree.
Nonetheless, we can describe two major mixtures, one for deciduous trees
and one for coniferous trees. Both mixtures consist of akadama (water
reten on component), pumice (good for surface structure) and lava rock
(aera on and drainage of the mixture).

Remember that both formula ons can and should be tailored to your
par cular circumstances. If you don't have me to check your trees once a
day, apply more Akadama (or even add natural po ng compost) to your
mixture to improve its water reten on. When you live in a wet climate, add
more lava rock (or even grit) to improve the drainage proper es of your
solu on.
Requirements Of Bonsai Soils

One of the most widely debated topics for most Bonsai enthusiasts is soil
chemistry. Good Bonsai is not just a model, but a good Bonsai must
represent a healthy tree growing in a small container, which depends
heavily on the soil used.
It's the fact that many people s ll have a misunderstanding that Bonsai is
being abused to be ny, and that's totally wrong. Bonsai needs extra loving
care and is expected to be safer than a tree growing in nature because of
the limited space it grows. Either the mispercep on or the unavailability of
good soil quality, most Bonsai are s ll planted with poor soil quality that, as
a result, causes the slow growing, unhealthy foliage or even the sudden
death of the tree.

Since Bonsai is grown in a rela vely small amount of soil throughout the
year on which it relies. For order to grow for a very long me, the plant
must be able to obtain water, nutrients and air through the soil in the
bowl. For this reason, Bonsai must be planted in good soil quality Bonsai.

The nature of the soil used directly affects the survival and vigor of the
plant. My understanding is that insalubrious trees that lack vigor are very
o en planted in weak (mostly organic) Bonsai soil; or the worst are planted
in healthy soil. These soil is readily hardened when dry, which does not
offer much benefit to the growth of Bonsai. On the opposite, it is very
damaging to the tree.

There Are A Number Of Qualities That Are Required In A Good Soil

Mix
Good water conservation. The soil must be able to hold and retain
sufficient water to provide the Bonsai with moisture between each
watering.

Okay, good drainage. Excess water must be able to drain out of the
container instantly. Soils without good drainage are too water-
retentive, lack of aeration and are prone to salt build-up. Too much
water retention will also allow the root to rot and destroy the tree.
Better aeration, guy. Particles used in a Bonsai mixture should be of
sufficient size to allow small gaps or air pockets between each
particle. Apart from the need for oxygen to the roots, it is also
important to let the good bacteria, mycorhizae, survive so that food is
extracted before the root-hair is consumed and sent to the leaves for
photosynthesis.

A particle-based, well-structured inorganic soil allows for quick runoff

of water and encourages fresh air to penetrate the soil constantly.
Compact organic soil, which lacks any structure, often lacks aeration
and drainage, which can lead to poor root and plant health and root
rot.

Organic or Inorganic Soils

Soil mixtures are defined as either organic or inorganic. Dead plant ma er,
such as peat or leaf-leaf or bark, is defined as organic soil components.
Inorganic soil mixtures contain li le or no organic ma er, such as volcanic
lava, calcite and clay.
Organic Soil

In the last decades, Bonsai prac ces have tended to use organic soil
mixtures, using a large propor on of peat, bark and leaf-li er mixed with
grit for drainage purposes. While me passed, knowledge and
understanding of Bonsai increased, many enthusiasts now recognize that
organic soil components such as peat are not conducive to good plant
health and vigor.

Peat and other organic soil components have many disadvantages; they
can be too water-reten ve, contribu ng to persistent soil soda, par cularly
during the rainy seasons in fall, winter and spring. Conversely, during
periods of high temperatures, dry peat may be difficult to wash thoroughly,
leaving dry spots inside the root ball of the bonsai; and this will be harmful
to the growth of root-hairs. Trees without good root-hairs will never have a
healthy foliage, and trees with no healthy foliage will grow very slowly and
die quickly.
Possibly the most serious problem with organic soils is that, although they
may consist of large par cles when the Bonsai is first planted, they
con nue to break down in a Bonsai pot and become compacted. As the soil
compacts, it becomes airless and is badly drained. These waterlogged and
airless soils quickly suffocate the roots and may lead to decaying roots and
ill health in the Bonsai. Of fact, the compacted soil may cause problems
when repo ng, because it is difficult to wash the new soil and damage the
root-hairs, which may lead to the death of the bonsai.

Inorganic Soil

The benefit of inorganic materials is that they keep their shape intact for a
long me without spli ng into a musk. Inorganic products hold a certain
amount of water and any waste is instantly drained through the bo om of
the pot; Akadama is Japanese baked clay, Akadama is the place of choice
for many Japanese Bonsai Masters and enthusiasts. This is partly due to its
rela vely low price in Japan, where it is also easy to obtain, but very costly
outside Japan. However, while Akadama may be known to be a good
quality soil, it is in reality no be er than cheaper and more easily
accessible fire-clay soils found in some countries. In fact, in 1 or 2 years,
Akadama will turn into a solid mush. Therefore, this old soil must be
washed out of its roots every one or two years. For this purpose, it is not
recommended of plants that do not tolerate daily bare-roo ng (e.g. pines).

Advantage Of Volcanic Lava Soil

Volcanic lava is another inorganic soil considered the best for Bonsai,
but not readily created in some countries where no volcanoes have
been discovered.

Initially a natural thing.A volcano containing organic nutrients that

support the plants.

Porous.Porous. Porosity is advantageous for root-hair growth. Good

root-hairs have good foliage which contributes to a healthy tree.

Good water conservation. Water retention is important in order to

retain an adequate amount of water in the soil to sustain the moisture
content.

Okay, good drainage. Better irrigation should improve the soil quality,
preventing too much moisture that could cause root rot and destroy
the plant.

Better aeration, guy. Good oxygen flow in the soil is essential for the
life of good bacteria, mycorhizae, which is required to produce food in
the soil.

Not fast to break down. Break down can leave the soil hard and
disrupt the drainage and aeration of the surface. The compacted soil
will also cause root-hair growth and disruption to the root system
during repotting.

Neutral in ph. The neutral ph around is ideal for all sorts of bonsai.

It's easy. Volcano lava is much cheaper compared to other inorganic

soils and economical due to the gain.
The root system is properly preserved with undisturbed root-hairs. This is
the state that Bonsai fans foresee when repo ng to make sure the Bonsai
lives well a er repo ng.

Root System Condition Of Using Different Soils

Use Volcanic Lava Bonsai Soils This Bonsai has been developing in the pot
for more than two years. Once separated from the bowl, the root ball
reveals a perfectly healthy root system without any gri y dirt stuck to it.
This is the result of good water reten on and good aera on in lava soils.
This state guarantees the good growth of the bonsai.

Use of ordinary soil Bonsai has been growing in the pot for more than 3
years. Once separated from the bowl, the root ball reveals a very dense soil
state without root-hairs. This is the result of poor soil quality where the
root system cannot grow healthy.

Using Volcanic Lava Bonsai Soils By actually soaking in the rain, all soils
relax without destroying the root system and the root-hairs stay intact. This
is the result of good irriga on and no degrada on of lava deposits. This
state means that the Bonsai can con nue to grow quickly and stay healthy
a er repo ng.

Usage of ordinary soil The gri y soil can only be washed by a high-pressure
water spray, but the root-hairs will be lost. This is the result of poor
sanita on, poor ven la on and simple landslides. In this soil climate,
Bonsai will never grow well. Although this Bonsai has been growing for
more than 3 years, the root system does not grow well with very li le root-
hair; and the worst is that all root-hairs will be destroyed and washed away
with s cky soil during washing. This can easily kill trees when conifers
(pines and junipers) happen. Through through the use of volcanic lava
pellets, this Bonsai can grow much faster and healthier.

Tips For Bonsai Potting & Repotting

The best season for Bonsai po ng and repo ng is early spring or early fall
and never in winter. That's why most of the trees are giving new shoots
beginning in spring and autumn. The best me to repot Bonsai is when the
Bonsai is s ll in a healthy state and don't hesitate un l the Bonsai begins to
get so . The explana on is that when we do repo ng, the tree will get
upset and the poor Bonsai may not be able to challenge the pressure and
may get worse.

The repo ng frequency depends on the type of the tree; certain trees
(broad leaf / deciduous trees) need more regular repo ng than conifers
(pine and junipers). Do not repot the conifers right a er a serious styling
cycle or right a er sculp ng the jin-shari. It's be er to wait a year. When
repo ng conifers, seek not to damage the root system, par cularly the
root-hairs; but root pruning can be performed on some deciduous trees.
Some root pruning during repo ng is best followed by some pruning on
the foliage, par cularly on deciduous trees.

How To Mix Your Own Bonsai Soil

What's so big about Dang? In my opinion...... the dirt. This is the most important aspect of bonsai, and we o en neglect
it because we see a tree as a plant and the soil as a soil. Therefore, anything is supposed to work. Soil is more than just
digging a clumps of dirt in the yard and throwing it in a pot and saying, "We're done with Phase 1, let's move on." But
soil is such a good element when it comes to repo ng bonsai trees. It's important to understand that repo ng a bonsai
tree is a necessary evil, and why we do it. Part of being in a bonsai hobby is being a bit of everything: hor culturist,
geologist, painter, etc. What one is trying to do is mimic itself, and nature has been at this game for a long me, so it's
safe to say, "imita on is the most sincere form of fla ery."

Soil vs. Substrate

Soil used in bonsai is a very widely debated topic because every hobbyist
has his or her own recipe combina on for his or her soil. Another person's
soil structure for tropical trees may be too light or too dense for another
hobbyist plant. Many people will even note that bonsai soil is not even soil
at all, as it can not produce soil in the tradi onal sense. Most people would
prefer to call their bonsai soils "mixes" rather than back away from actually
naming it soil to avoid ambiguity. Irrespec ve of what you use for any
plant, the real difference between the tradi onal sense of soil and the
bonsai mix is that irriga on is ideal and the main goal to be accomplished.

Why Is Drainage Important?

Why is drainage the secret to safe bonsai growing? You might tell yourself,
"If that's my main problem, I'm certain it can be fixed by having holes in my
bowl, I'm certain it'll drain, no ma er how much liquid it's in the pot and
how much air it's in it, right?" Ok, it reasoning isn't en rely wrong because
a crack can absorb some fluid over me. But that's another op on, and the
me it takes to remove the soil and the container depends solely on the
form of the bonsai soil mix. Of course, allowing water to drain quickly will
save the tree from suffering from "wet feet" which contributes to root rot.
You are welcome to put a tree in a densely packed pot of dirt, such as a
po ng soil mix or a compost which you dig out of the ground; however,
you may not have a plant that is as safe as a tree that is planted in a well
drained soil. So try to imagine, as the earth starts to compact over me,
that air and water can permeate the surface? Oxygen root starva on can
result in roots not growing properly, resul ng in poor trees that do not
require the tree to be properly secured.
What Are The Components?

Bonsai blend can be classified into two groups, Organic and Inorganic. The
disparity between organic and inorganic is based on water reten on. All
products have a grit that helps excess water to drain out of the mixture. Yet
apart from that, the terms for both are simply as organic components of
ro ng plant ma er; while inorganic materials are made up of no organic
ma er, such as stones and other gri y material, such as baked clay. As
comparison to the days of the past when baked clay was not as readily
available, organic ma er was more desirable. Modern mixtures, though,
were a threat to the risk of over-watering, and a drama c shi to inorganic
ma er is now on the rise. In modern mes, growers who use a mixture of
high-burning clay and other gri y materials that are large water retainers;
but, coarse enough to allow root growth, they can water mul ple mes a
day without over-watering. Many farmers cul vate their trees in pure
baked clay for op mum water drainage and total oxygen permeability. But
it should be remembered that loose mixtures can interrupt root growth
due to moving.

Organic Component

Organic materials consist of conifer bark, peat moss (humus), po ng soil

and any other compost material. For further details: Conifer bark as a soil
condi oner contributes a bulk to the solu on and maintains moisture,
allowing excess water to drain.
Peat moss (humus) is the most moisturizing substance and should
therefore be used sparingly. Such coa ng was used mainly only to hold the
soil together so that the different components do not move as the roots
grow. It is important to know that moss can absorb a large amount of
water and that it can hold a large amount of water for a long me without
proper drainage.
Po ng soil will add bulk to your solu on as well as be used as a bonding
agent. Be mindful that the po ng soil is highly water-retaining.
The decomposi on of plant ma er is used as meat.
The trick to the inorganic ingredients is to apply "grit" to the mixture. The
more grit you apply, the more aera on it makes, and this will help
s mulate good root growth. Inorganic elements consist of other materials
which do not break down like the organic equivalent. Some inorganic
materials are highly valued for their porous proper es, which may retain
water but do not break down as quickly and condense. Here are various
types of inorganic components:
akadama: this is hard-boiled clay and good for water reten on. This part is
suitable for the mixing of bonsai soil. It is o en considered a necessary
element when making a bonsai blend. The only drawback with this is that
it's going to break down in a couple of years.
Turface: it looks a lot like high fired akadama mud, but it's not. This
substance was primarily used to illustrate golf courses and baseball fields
as it does wonders to allow air to enter, making it perfect for turf.
Lava rock: this material is incredibly thick and bri le. Unlike the other two
men oned above, this element is not going to break down as quickly.
Many want to use this as a top dressing for their gardens, but don't know
how incredibly great it is as an array of bonsai mixes.
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH: This material is a bit out of the ordinary and is
only recommended if you do not find anything else on the aforemen oned
page. Diatomaceous soil, such as Oil Sorb or Oil Dri, is used by mechanics
who disperse the substance to the ground in the event of oil spills. The
surface will soak up the oil and make it much easier to wash it. For bonsai,
it works on the same principle, soaking up water and preserving moisture,
but s ll hanging on to its rough shape, allowing roots to expand around it.
If you can get this stuff, make sure to confirm that the content is #8822. It's
tried and tested, and it's not going to turn into a mess.
Addi onal Soil Condi oners

The different components men oned above are just a li le bit of what can
be used in bonsai. There are several other soil condi oners and soil
aggregates that can be used to blend your own bonsai mixture. The
important factor to know is that your addi on will provide three goods:-
good aera on-

good drainage-
good moisture reten on

These three guidelines should be considered when adding other

components to your mixture. Some may be conven onal, and some may
be out of the book suggested by a person you trust will know that works.
All you have to do is do it yourself to validate and run trials. One cannot go
wrong with either organic or inorganic materials, just as long as these three
elements are accounted for.

The Right Equipment

Apart from the element, the right equipment would help you to get the
most out of your product. If I think about the machinery, I mean the si er.
The stuff that comes in bags and packets will have a lot of impuri es, and
those impuri es can range from dirt to just a couple other nasty things you
don't want. Of starters, you're going to want to get rid of dust because dust
can se le and clogg holes over me. Other impuri es, such as grass and
probably other organic ma er, can cause the same type of damage. Si ers
will help you to si the content into different levels that will allow you to
have smaller granules for smaller po ed bonsai and bigger granules for
larger bonsai. Si ing is not generally an important step; however, it is
highly recommended and some mes strongly recommended because you
paid a lot of money for your content, so why not take a further step.
Mixing Recipes

As men oned above, there is no way to approach your own unique mix. There are a few ps that
many may recommend, but be mindful that they are just recommenda ons. As a bonsai hobbyist,
it's important to be open minded and find your way before ignoring or cri cizing. What might not
fit for you is going to work for someone else. Since there is a simple rule for the different types of
bonsai, the mixtures will have to be matched in order to match the specific types of plants.
Bonsai Mix Recipe

Basic Bonsai Tropical Bonsai Deciduous Bonsai Conifer

Organic/Inorganic Compoents
Mix Mix Mox Bonsai Mix
Akadama/Turface 50% 40% 50% 60%
Lava rock/Diatomaceous earth 25% 25% 30% 30%
Organic Compost Component 25% 35% 20% 10%

The different types of balanced ra o of organic to inorganic mixed with grit to create a well
balanced bonsai mix for various types of trees.

Clump Vs. Loose

Of example, a er a period of me, the soil will condense and that condensing process will be
replicated to check how well the soil can hold up. To order to simulate this form of compac on,
even before you fill the pot with your bonsai mixture, you should be able to squeeze a big clump
of we ed mixture into your palm. If the mixture is thick and persists like a very solid hard clump,
the mixture is too full of organic ma er and will hold a lot of moisture. This can lead to a lot of
complica ons, for example, root rot can occur when roots are le in moist soil for a long me.
O en, moisture can not reach the ground, causing more problems. If the mixture falls away a er
you remove it from your hand, you have a fine, well-draining mixture. To fix either too loose or too
ght, simply add a combina on of either more grit or more organic ma er to suit your needs.
Mixing your own bonsai combina on is a great sign of devo on. Your passion for the tree begins
from the ground up. Mixing your own bonsai mix will encourage you to understand a lot more
about your tree. A tree will o en be able to tell you how it thinks and let you know what its
desires are all depending on its mixing state. A good mix should make it possible for the grower to
understand when the tree needs water and the state of the tree. A good mix will decide how
much learning a tree can last this year. A poor combina on can result in a lag in both development
and nutri on. The ill tree is restricted to what it can do, and o en the easiest expecta ons of the
grower are all too much for the tree. Take care of your tree by showing it the finest soil mix you
can bring together. I've never asked a stupid ques on before late in the sport, so I hope this will
come to you early on your journey as this is an important aspect of bonsai.
Bonsai Repotting
When should my bonsai be repotted?
The best me to repot the bonsai tree is late winter. Mid-February is a good general median for
most Bonsai trees. During the summer, the Bonsai becomes dead, and the spring tree
rests. Junipers, of course, are evergreens, and they don't drop their leaves like a deciduous tree,
but they just fall asleep. Severe root pruning and transplanta on can be quite painful to your crop
during the growing season. At the end of the day, pruning your bonsai tree roots should be
completed just before the growing season starts, because that's when your broken root ends start
to rebuild themselves. Pruning the roots too early in dormancy ensures that the roots can stay
unhealed and exposed and vulnerable to root rot or disease.

Why should I repot my bonsai?

The Bonsai tree is located in a very small world. The en re earth is bound by the propor ons of a
small bonsai bowl, which can quickly become root-bound. As the Bonsai tree grows, the root
system absorbs what used to be the soil. (That's wrong, it was "owned" by it). A bonsai can not
survive unless it has an adequate amount of soil. When new roots are created, older roots
become inac ve and need to be pruned off.

Bonsai soil is designed to increase drainage. That leaves behind a lot of built-up, not - so-great
stuff in the soil. It is also normal to build up salts and minerals. Replacing the soil is a fast way to
fix the pH balance of the bonsai plant and build up salts and chemicals.
How often should I repot my bonsai?
Typically, once a year for younger Bonsai trees and up to three years for older ones. You're not
really going to know un l you dig at the roots, but most bonsai trees are repo ed every
February. They can be re-po ed if necessary during the growing season.

If you can pull the tree out of its bowl, and the root ball comes out in one piece, then it's me to
repot it.
Should I put my bonsai in a bigger pot?
Not even that. Repo ng doesn't mean replacing the bowl, it really ought to be thought of as
replacing the dirt. Although most Bonsai trees and definitely Junipers will grow bigger every year
and a larger container will do a lot of good, not only for the wellbeing of the crop, but aesthe cally
as well.
Won't cutting the roots of a plant kill it?
Sure, pre y much... (doesn't you think that?) But pruning or combing the roots of a Bonsai doesn't
mean cu ng off the leaves. The goal is to delete the obsolete old ones and the new ones if they
have become too long. The root system transfers water and nutrients to the top of the tree
through a process called transpira on. It's kind of like photosynthesis in the opposite. Almost all
the moisture collected by the root system is drained through the small root hairs at the ps of the
branches. The big fat roots are generally useless and can be chopped off. The Bonsai tree must be
matched between the roots that support the plant and the photosynthesis. Small amounts of
leaves, as many bonsai trees are built to have, implies less photosynthesis that can sustain the
roots. So you need fewer seeds, and vice versa.

What kind of soil do I need to use?

Use a specially formulated po ng medium for bonsai. They're worth the money. These are
balanced and blended to make sure the bonsai is well drained. Choose one that has been "double
si ed," which means that the large chunks of material have been si ed out, and the very small
par cles, too. Of example, the dust from the peat moss may choke out a tender new root
growth. BonsaiOutlet.com is marke ng a combina on of our own recipe called Rootopia ®. It's a
great blend, and it's used far and wide.

Bonsai Longevity
The Japanese style of Bonsai employs me culous and masterful pruning and maintenance
methods to produce a miniature, but naturally realis c tree. By comparison to popular belief,
Bonsai trees are not a par cular species of dwarf tree or plant. In addi on, any tree species can be
planted and educated to become Bonsai. It takes skill and prac ce to achieve a perfect shape and
form. Simply plan ng a tree in a small pot and allowing it to flourish with intermi ent pruning
would not result in an aesthe cally pleasing crop. Every leaf, stem, twig must be con nuously
trimmed and directed precisely in order to achieve the desired image.

Life Expectancy Of The Bonsai Tree

The Sandai Shogun no matsu collec on of the Tokyo Palace in Japan is a white Bonsai pine claimed
to be over 500 years old and is the oldest known Bonsai tree in the world. In fact, the Bonsai tree
can be assumed to have the same life span as the other trees of its genus with an op mal climate
and maintenance. It is very hard to see the maturity of the Bonsai tree. Trees are o en pruned to
mimic the look of ancient trees with bent limbs and contorted trunks. A tree that is only a few
years old can look like a miniature version of a wild tree that is hundreds of years old. It is certainly
possible for the Bonsai tree to pass from genera on to genera on.
Like their feral ancestors le alone in the forest, Bonsai trees have to be properly tended in order
to survive. The most important factor in the survival of the Bonsai tree is the treatment it gets. A
tree that is badly nourished will wither and die easily, and if it does survive, it may be frail and
scrawny. Maintaining the plant in good environmental condi ons and ensuring that it stays
disease-free and free from pests is vital to survival. Like any seed, sufficient compost and nitrogen
must be used and, if appropriate, the whole tree must be replanted. The small stature of the
Bonsai tree does not mean that it must have a small life span if it is properly cared for.

Proper Care

Climate is the key to a good Bonsai. Depending on the variety of plants, it may grow indoors or
outdoors. Outdoor species need a cold weather season and become dormant. Outdoor Bonsai are
likely to die if le indoors for a longer period of me. In milder seasons, such as spring and
summer, Bonsai can be taken indoors for up to a week. The indoor Bonsai tree must be kept at
temperatures between 50 and 80 degrees. They may be le outside in milder months, but
extreme cold can allow it to die and must be kept indoors.
As with other crops, adequate drainage is an important considera on. Soil humidity should be
monitored closely to ensure that it is not over or submerged. In the summer months when the
tree is dry, it will have to be watered regularly, less o en in the winter months or in the rainy
months.

Although many Bonsai fans have opted to make their own soil mix, a po ng mix can also be used.
Bonsai special soil mixtures are available. The main difference between the Bonsai formula on
and the other po ng soil mixtures is the decreased volume of nitrogen.

Fer lizer is o en used for plants that the grower needs to be complete and lush. Bonsai plants
o en require fer liser for op mum health. To order to ensure op mal produc on, fer liser
containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium must be supplied to the crop at the right me of
year. Nitrogen s mulates the growth of stems and leaves. Phosphorus maintains healthy soil and
facilitates budding. Potassium helps to protect against infec on and promotes flowering. Fer lize
Bonsai throughout the spring and summer with a natural solu on and turn to nitrogen-free
fer lizer in the fall in prepara on for the winter.

Trimming For Op mal Lifespan

Bonsai tree, like any other plant, has a daily growth cycle. While Bonsai does seem to be stunted,
this does not mean that it has ceased to grow. Proper trimming of the Bonsai tree is the key to
maintaining its small size and keeping it alive for a long me to come.

Depending on the crop, it may react well to pruning or fail to recover from extreme trimming.
Usually, new growth can be cut in the spring and old growth is expected to be pruned in the fall.
Conifer trees, such as pine and cedar, can be pruned with finger ps by twis ng. It provides a more
natural look for these types than the use of scissors. Deciduous trees are best off with scissor
pruning.

Trimming sick or sick leaves and branches can improve the health of the tree. Monitoring the
development of the plant closely so as to be able to determine which branches produce healthy
leaves and which are struggling to survive. Pruning unhealthful branches will allow the rest of the
plant to survive and encourage healthy branches to grow in the next season.

Once the necessary branches and leaves have been removed, the cut branches should be covered.
A wax sealant is best suited to a conifer tree, while tar-based coa ng is best suited for deciduous
species.

Ideal Plants For Bonsai

By prac ce, any plant can be condi oned to be a Bonsai tree. When selec ng a longevity crop, it is
best to choose a variety known for its adaptability and durability. Based on the aesthe cs and
style, whether deciduous or evergreen trees may be used. Considera on should also be granted
on the basis of the skill level of the grower.

Preferred evergreen plants:

 Pine

Pomegranate
Holly

Fig

Azalea

Cypress

Cedar

Preferred deciduous plants:

Maple

Beech

Cherry

Such plants have been used to create beau ful Bonsai plants throughout centuries, and many are
known to be able to live beyond the life me of their wild counterparts. Ensuring that the plant is
well cared for and free from stress and infec on will help the Bonsai not only survive its natural
lifespan, but probably survive and thrive for several human genera ons as well.

How to Start a Bonsai Business

Every year, more and more residents move to the city, where the yards are much smaller, or even a condo balcony. Gardeners respond by learning to thrive in
smaller areas and choosing smaller plants to cul vate. Bonsai trees are the ideal small crop, given that a sixty-foot tall tree in nature can be only eighteen
inches tall, raised in a bonsai bowl. Urban growth has sparked increased demand for these ny trees, and the selling of bonsai trees, pots and equipment is
booming.

As a result, there is money to be made in the bonsai market, both in local sales and on the web on sites like eBay. Most successful growers never visit their
customers except online, while other growers also love exhibi ng their bonsai collec ons in person or at bonsai shows.

A backyard bonsai nursery can have hundreds of trees in a very small area. One Utah grower has a range of over 1,200 bonsai trees in a small backyard of only
40 to 50 feet. Contrast this to a tradi onal tree planta on, where the same number of trees can easily fill an acre.
Best Bonsai Trees To Grow

Some of the trees that are popular with bonsai collectors are Chinese elm, number one bonsai
tree, Japanese maple, hornbeam, birch and Japanese black pine. Conifers, such as pines and
hemlocks, need less maintenance than large-leaf trees, such as maples.

Many commercial growers create raised benches for their bonsai trees, so they posi on plants at a
more suitable height for pruning, watering and prac ce, and leave plenty of room under the
bench for supplies. In contrast to sea ng, many broadleaf trees, such as Japanese maples, require
par al shade to do their best. A basic glasshouse shade cloth, spread between posts, is normally
all that is required.

New growers may sell starter plants to gain some money when growing mature, qualified bonsai
trees. Starter trees can be grown from seeds or, for a faster start, from plugs obtained from a retail
tree nursery. When the trees are one to three years old, they're ready to sell or ride.

Producing qualified bonsai trees that are two to five years old is a great market for most small-
scale farmers, because sales prices are reasonable rela ve to more mature trees, so there is more
customer demand. Many young educated trees are sold in a bonsai pot, and farmers can gain
more money from buying and selling pots wholesale.

Bonsai trees are a common gi product, so expect an increase in sales during the holiday season,
such as Mother's Day, Valen ne's Day and Christmas. The "sweet spot" for the value of gi bonsai
trees is around $30 to $60, while "specimen" trees can carry hundreds of dollars.

A bonsai company is the perfect way for gardeners to put their green thumb to use in their spare
me. Ge ng started needs very li le space or money, and, best of all, any tree that goes unsold
for one year will become more valuable for the next year!

How To Grow Bonsai Trees Fast

Keeping plants in the yard, such as a bonsai tree, can be a cheap and successful and sa sfying
hobby. House plants usually do not require a lot of upkeep, and they can really spic up the
atmosphere of your house. However, when you strive for speed in growing your bonsai tree, there
are certain steps and conserva on measures that you can take to get your tree to sprout at the
fastest possible me.

Stage 1

Place the bonsai tree planted in an area that receives direct sunlight for at least four hours each
day. Researchers at bonsaigardener.org report that bonsai thrives best and healthiest if maintained
at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit during daylight hours.
stage 2
Water the bonsai tree every day un l the soil is at its highest. Bonsai trees grow rapidly in the soil,
which is kept warm at all mes.
stage 3
Fer lize the bonsai plant every three weeks during the growing season, from early spring to late
fall. Follow the dilu on guidelines for the product; make careful to dilute the fer lizer correctly
based on the size of the po ng plant you used, or else you risk burning the roots of the bonsai
with too much fer lizer.
Stage 4
Re-pot the bonsai plant every two years in the summer, before the growth cycle starts again. Use
the same sort of soil or plan ng pot as you did before, so that the bonsai is used in its
surroundings. Before replan ng, cut at least one third of the roots from the end to make sure they
are not compressed in the container and are able to absorb nutrients. Depending on the size of
the roots, you may need to cut more to fit into the bowl.

stage 5
your bonsai tree for signs of pest infesta on at each watering. Due to the constant irriga on needs
of the crop, insects are readily drawn. Treat some evidence of infesta on with a small dose of
pes cide.

Conclusion
Bonsai is the art of growing trees in small pots, shaping the look of the plant to any style that is
desired. This art has been developed in Japan and Asia by those who seek to enhance the beauty
of their gardens. It was once an art confined to the affluent, although it has changed over me.
Today, bonsai trees are owned by the wealthy as well as the poor, because these plants are cheap
to care for and easy to work with.

Beginners may enjoy a bonsai tree that helps them to grow in a more natural state, whereas
experienced hobbyists usually strive to model their trees to fulfill a specific goal. There are many
different types of bonsai trees available on the market, including conifers and non-coniferous
trees. When choosing which bonsai to grow, you must take care to research the growing area in
which you live and choose a tree appropriate for that zone. This is important because bonsai trees
are intended to be grown and planted outdoors.
While there is an increasing tendency to take care of them indoors, most typical trees, such as the
Japanese maple bonsai, do not do well indoors. This is due to the fact that these plants need a
me of dormancy, in which the tree must rejuvenate any damage that has been done to it during
the growing seasons between spring and fall.
If you do not permit the tree to collapse into a state of dormancy, the tree will usually die in
dormancy within a few months of its scheduled me. Several bonsai trees have this problem,
although the most prominent and common tree used for bonsai with this problem is the juniper
tree. Junipers are par cularly sensi ve to their dormancy cycle and should not be kept indoors.

There are a lot of things you need to consider when you're taking care of bonsai. There are mes
of years when some trees need to be pruned or need a new pot, and mes of year when they are
secure to be wired. That tree species are unique, so research is needed when you choose a new
bonsai. Nonetheless, despite all the things that need to be done and kept in mind, growing bonsai
is an incredibly sa sfying hobby.

Since trees can grow to be hundreds of years old, you can expect to keep the tree with you all your
life if you take care of it properly. You can buy bonsai products online or through the local
nurseries.

Anne Duval

HOUSEPLANTS
for Beginners

A Complete Guide to Choose, Grow and Take Care of your Houseplants

Introduction
At one me or another most everyone had a plant or two in their house or
apartment. If you have a bit of a green thumb, your plants grew and
offered you hours of enjoyment or maybe you even had a name for each
plant. Yes, you are indeed the talented ones who can grow just about
anything anywhere.
Then there is the beginner house plant owner who with the best of
inten ons looked on in dismay as they watched their plants slowly wither
away eventually becoming nothing more than a dried s ck. You ask around
for help and one of your friends may say, “You probably didn’t give it
enough water.” Yet another friend would say, “The problem is giving your
plant too much water.”If as a plant owner this sounds familiar then you’re
not alone, you just need a li le bit of advice on what to do for your plants
as well as what not to do.

Houseplants for Beginners is a guide to house planters and a star ng place

for those of you who don’t know much about plants but want something
green in their homes. This book is designed to help you “bone up” on some
of the more commonly found plants and to give you the basic knowledge
of what the plants need in order for you to be a successful grower.

You’ll find the profiles of different houseplants—from the common aloe

vera plant to the exo c chocolate conidium orchid—that boast impressive
health-giving quali es. Some of them purify indoor air of harmful toxins.
Others are great for making tonics, poul ces, and nctures that can be
used to treat all manner of condi ons, from stomach upset to skin
irrita on to blocked sinuses.
This book will help you as a beginner house plant owner and I hope you
will find ps and sugges ons that will help you grow healthy, strong, and
vibrant plants that will be admired by any visitor to your home.

I suggest you start with growing one or perhaps two plants, and when you
learn how to nourish them to become strong and healthy, you might want
to grow a variety of other plants. Yes, even vegetables such as tomatoes,
le uce, spinach, Swiss chard, and most herbs.

Now it’s me to move forward.

The Benefits of Houseplants:

Houseplants don't only liven up your home or give you a touch of nature to
enjoy, they are also very beneficial to humans.

Some of these benefits are:

Plants and humans have opposite breathing pa erns to

humans to give us fresh oxygen during the day. They filter the
carbon dioxide in the air and release oxygen.
Plants can act as natural humidifiers as they release around
97% of the moisture they take in during the day.
Plants also remove toxins from the air such as harmful
chemicals like solvents, cigare e smoke and so on. These
harmful toxins are referred to as Vola le Organic Compounds
(VOC’s). In a building that is air ght and or has air condi oning,
plants are the key to purifying the air.
Studies have shown that plants can improve personal health,
they are soothing and tend to liven up a room. In hospitals,
there has been some research done by the Kansas State
University that showed the pa ents that had plants in their
rooms recovered a lot quicker.
They make work environments seem less sterile and have
proven to increase produc vity.
In colleges, there have been numerous studies that showed a
classroom with plants improved students' concentra on.
It is common knowledge that a green room can relieve stress,
reduce blood pressure and help to improve a person’s mood.
Choosing Your Plant(s)
Ini ally, it is almost like going to get a dog for the first me. You have to
decide are you going to get a baby one, teenager or full-grown! Then there
is the chicken or the egg scenario; what comes first finding the right spot
for the plant(s) or finding the right plant for the house/office?
See it is kind of like choosing a pet for the first me! The trick is not to over
think it rather take a walk around your space and try to visualize where you
would place a plant. Or if you have a plant in mind, where do you think the
best spot for it would be.

For either your home or office, ask yourself:

What space(s) do you want to fill in your home/office?
Do you need the plant to rest on the floor or a table/shelf?
Does the posi on receive a lot of light?
Are you looking for a flowering plant or not?
How much maintenance are you willing to do or have me to
do?
Most importantly, how much are you wan ng to spend on
buying the plant (keep in mind there are other costs involved in
houseplants).
Do you have colors in mind?
Do you have a theme in mind?

Go window shopping for plants

Yes, it is a thing! You can "window shop" for plants. Plant nurseries and
garden centers these days are awesome. They have so much more than
just plants in. In fact, you could probably spend an en re day in some of
the larger ones.

A lot of the new plant nurseries or garden stores have lovely coffee shops.
These are specifically designed to give you a great plant experience. You sit
amongst the plants, running waterfalls and ambiance of the surrounds
taking it all in. Even the busiest of nurseries have a sort of tranquility about
them. The bustle just seems to become white noise when surrounded by
plants, garden accessories and of course the sound of fountains.

These centers are filled with plants and usually, have qualified staff who
can help advise you on the best plant(s) for your space(s). Once you have a
good selec on to choose from you will know how many you will need, and
the garden center will also be able to best advise you on the plants care or
any special instruc ons.

Research
This is where this guide comes in. The best way to figure things out is with
a bit of research. There is so much out there these days on the internet,
the shelves in stores are filled with gardening books of all kinds.

In fact, there is way too much informa on out there, so much so that you
will go into informa on overload. All that does is cause even more
confusion and make a person want to scream or just go buy plas c plants!

But before you rush off and think that plas c is the best op on as you
cannot kill it, stop and finish reading through this guide to see that you do
not need to be a botanist or have the proverbial green thumb. Just some
good, easy to follow advice, ps, and tricks to get you on your way to
bringing a bit of nature into your home.

I will guide you through some easy steps to get started, how to choose that
correct spot for your plant, which plants are best for beginners along with
a lot of other helpful ps without the informa on overload.
Best Houseplants for Beginners
Ren ng plants may be a good op on to test the waters but we cannot all
afford that. Plus, they do not always have the plants we want, and you are
at their mercy. Choosing your own is part of the exci ng new adventure
into bringing nature indoors for your benefit, enjoyment and to make your
house a home.
The Peace Lily

If you are looking for a plant that flowers, is low maintenance but at the
same me elegant and adaptable this is the plant. The Peace Lily has
beau ful dark green leaves and stems with an elegant white flower that is
yellow at its center. They do not require much room and the plant will
grow upward with a hardy stem that does not droop. It grows and
conforms to the shape of its pot. Not only are they one of the easiest
plants to grow indoors they will change the dynamic of any spot you put
them. They are be er suited for a shelf or countertop type environment.

Bromeliads
If you are looking to bring some warm color into an area and you do not
have much room, then Bromeliads are best. They thrive indoors and will
stay to the confines of their po ed environment. These plants also come in
an array of beau ful warm colors, although to be honest they are easy to
grow but are really stubborn when it comes to flowering. If you want them
for their flower, try to buy plants that are already in bloom. Their flowers
last a long me, but they do not always bloom and can take forever to do
so. Even if they do not flower their leaves have beau ful color arrays on
them and those in flower usually have a few different colors to display.

Snake Plant

This is one of the most popular houseplants and is also the best for
beginners. They are not that easy to kill and require minimal watering.
These plants need so li le, but they give so much. They will remove all the
toxins from the air, provide sufficient humidity to the room and do not
require excessive ligh ng. They are the perfect houseplant for anyone. The
one thing that you can do though is over water this plant which will cause
the soil to rot. Their leaves are shaped like daggers and are a sturdy green
with white/off-white pa erns around the edges and lightly striped across
them. They are great for off and on the shelf as they grow to the size of
their pot or environment.

The English Ivy

This is a very pre y plant that adapts to its po ed environment although it

does creep being a creeper type plant. You will have to watch it and keep it
pruned or it will try to take over its surroundings. That being said, it is s ll a
very easy plant to grow and maintain. They do not like direct sunlight and
prefer their pots to be shallower and long rather than tall and deep. They
are not flower bearing plants but have pre y li le green leaves that are
edged with an off-white to light pinkish leaves that are shaped like a small
elephant's head or long heart shape. Once again this is a very hardy plant
that does not quite very easily, so it takes a lot to kill it.

Cac
If ever there was a plant for beginners, it is a Cactus. In fact, some of them
do not need to be in soil to grow. They come in all shapes and sizes and are
extremely great for Feng Shui gardens in a house or ny miniature gardens
in a long planter. There are round ones, tall ones, spikey ones and they all
usually get flowers or have some form of a flower on them. They will go
without water for ages, most do not need direct sunlight or a lot of
a en on at all. There is a reason these plants can survive desert
condi ons, but care must be taken with the thorns as there are those that
have a bite to them. Some mes the bite can be pre y severe so always
check on the plant's toxicity levels.

Peperomia
Although they do like their water or mist spray, they are very hardy plants.
They also have beau ful swirling leaves that come in different shapes,
sizes, and colors. These leafy plants bring shape and splash of magnificent
green to any space they are in. They prefer to be on a shelf or tabletop
environment. Another excellent plant for beginners requiring minimal
maintenance and not too much space. Plus, they have a rather relaxing
look about them.

Dracaena
These plants look like long arms with spiky green poms at the top of them.
Their stems look like a rope that is twined with white and green. The leaves
are long and green some mes they have some warm shades of orange and
red on them. They are the perfect plant for that floor corner or just off to
the side of a window. They do not like a lot, if any, direct sunlight and
require occasional watering as well as pruning. These plants are really easy
to grow as well as take care of and they are so elegant to look at they bring
any floor space to life.

The ZZ Plant

This is the houseplant to get for those that want to make a start with
houseplants but have had their fair share of disasters. It is very strong,
hardy plant that requires li le maintenance is great to look at and will
grow within the confines of its po ed environment. Plus, it may not
happen o en, if ever, but it gets an unusual flower on it. It is a spathe-type
flower that makes it look like it is shyly peeping out at the world through
curtains. The flower almost looks like that of the Peace Lilies, but it does
not open up as wide and the petals stay a green color.

When in Doubt, Ask!

There is no shame in asking what, where and how when it comes to plants.
These are direc ons that you need to be aware of to ensure you can take
proper care of your plants.

You may think all they need is a bit of water, maybe some fer lizer here
and there or some pruning! But, like any living thing, plants have special
instruc ons a ached to them. Some need more sunlight than others; some
need less water than others or regular soil changes whilst some are
basically self-sufficient and like cats only really need you when they need
you!
If you have children or animals in your home, it is always best to find out
about the toxicity of the plant. Quite a few plants can cause serious harm
to humans and animals, so it is best to seek advice before taking the plant
home and having an incident. Even if you do not have kids or animals on
your own you should find out. You never know what might happen and
having all the details on hand could very well save a life or prevent serious
illness.

The Basics of Houseplant Care

Plants in good health actually use carbon dioxide in the air and produce
oxygen, making tropical plants with big leaves par cularly popular with
those who want to improve the air quality of their homes. To get this
benefit, however, the plant needs to be healthy and growing. Following
are some general ps on plant care.

Soil

Po ng soil is generally used for tropical houseplants. A good po ng soil is

a peat moss with some perlite mixed in. The perlite will be small white
par cles in the peat moss. Since the perlite is there to aerate the soil, you
may want to add more to the mix than has been provided. Perlite can be
purchased separately in small bags. Adding a scoop or two to a bag of
po ng soil will help the po ng soil from becoming packed. Even though
a plant’s roots are covered in soil, they do receive some air. Packed soil
eventually suffocates the roots and damages the plant. Plants that like
drier soil, such as succulents, should be po ed in a po ng mix. This is not
the same as the peat moss po ng soil. A po ng mix is drier, holds less
water and allows more air to the roots. Some po ng mixes can be
improved by adding perlite to the mixture, if the mix seems too heavy, or
with a scoop or two of the po ng soil, if it seems too dry and crumbly.

Containers
Most people want a container that is a rac ve but doesn’t leak water.
Many containers come with built in saucers that may or may not be
sufficient to catch the run off when the plant is watered. If this is a
concern, you may want to use a cache pot, which is a pot with no hole in
the bo om. These usually hide ugly plas c pots and catch the run off with
no danger of water spilling onto furniture or floor. Cache pots can be
purchased, or other types of old crocks or containers that will hold water
can be put to use as a cache pot. Regardless of whether you use a pot and
saucer or a cache pot, when you decide to re-pot your new plant, the new
container should only be slightly bigger than the old container. For
example, a plant in a 4” pot should be po ed into a container that is no
bigger than 6”. Moving up a size is typically referred to as po ng up.

Feeding

A couple of ways to feed houseplants are to either use the slow release
pellet type of fer lizer or the water soluble fer lizer. The pellets are mixed
into the soil when the plant is re-po ed and the nutrients are absorbed
over me. The pellets last around 6 months, so if you keep your plant in
the same container longer than that, you may need to start top feeding.
The water-soluble fer lizer is mixed with water and, if mixed as a weak
solu on, can be used for each watering, giving the plant a li le food each
me. Although some mes a pain to mix or store, it is easy enough to do.
Each fer lizer will have three numbers on the label that tell the ra o of
nitrogen, phosphate and potash in the mix. A fer lizer that has all
numbers the same or the middle number slightly higher is fine for
houseplants.
Watering

Most houseplants can do well with once a week watering. That doesn’t
mean, however, that they all need the same amount of water each week.
Some prefer moisture while others would rather stay somewhat dry. For
those that like moist soil, it is be er to give the plant a li le water twice a
week than a lot of water once a week. Few plants like to sit with their
bo oms in water, mainly because water-logged soil suffocates the roots.
Some have a need for humidity. Plants that prefer humidity may thrive in a
bright bathroom where showering increases the humidity level each day.
Another op on for smaller humid-loving plants is to plant them in an
enclosed terrarium where the moisture can be contained.

Light

Available light is one of the most important elements to growing

houseplants successfully. Your home or office receives morning and
a ernoon sun on the east and west sides of the building each day (unless
shaded by trees or other structures). In North America, the north facing
wall of your house or office receives sun all day in the summer and is
shaded in the winter. The south facing wall receives sun all day in the
winter and is shaded in the summer. The intensity of the sun shining
through any of these windows depends on how far south you are. Some
plants can take direct sun through an un-shaded window, others cannot.
For those that cannot take full direct sun, the light has to be filtered by the
external shade of a tree or covered porch or by sheer curtains or par ally
open blinds. Some plants cannot take filtered light for very long and prefer
“indirect” light. Indirect light is bright light without any sun shining
through the window onto the plant, the equivalent of a west window with
the blinds mostly closed.
Pests

Although this book does not contain informa on about controlling pests,
the typical use of insec cide is either through spraying the leaves of the
plant, using a dust on the leaves or by using a granular systemic
insec cide. The systemic is mixed into the soil and is taken up by the plant
through the roots, making the en re plant an insect no-go zone. Since the
systemic is designed to be absorbed, it can also go through the skin and
should only be handled with gloves. Although a great way to protect the
whole plant over me, this may not be something you want to do if you
have young children who may want to dig in your “dirt” or pets who may
want to do likewise. The use of sprays or dusts may also pose a real risk to
pets that may chew on plants. Although some plants are toxic by nature,
using insec cides will make all parts of the plant toxic, including the
po ng soil.

\
Lighting for Your Plants
Plants do not only count on water and fer lizer to grow but also light.
Some plants love to bask in the full rays of the sun while others prefer the
light but not direct rays and then some prefer to be in the shade with a bit
of humidity. Now, we are going to look at understanding natural light and
how to simulate light if your house or apartment does not get a good
amount of natural light.
Why a Plant Needs Light

Photosynthesis is a process whereby plants use the nutrients they trap

from the watered soil which is mixed with the carbon dioxide they absorb
from the air to produce their food. The plant gets the energy to power this
process from the sun which is trapped by the chlorophyll in the leaves. The
chlorophyll is the green pigment in the leaves and in turn helps the plant
give off clean oxygen for us to breathe.

The Flow of Natural Light in a House or Apartment

One of the biggest challenges for an indoor gardener is finding the correct
ligh ng condi ons for their po ed plants. You may think that a sunny
window creates enough light, but it is important to note that the sunlight
may stream in through large glass windows, but that light is not nearly as
intense as it is in the great outdoors.

That is why it is very important to consider which way a window is facing to

gauge the intensity of the sun through the windows during the day. The
following guide is based on windows mainly for North American houses
and or apartments.

Windows that Face South

Windows that face south usually get the most intense light throughout the
day. For plants that like a lot of direct sunlight this is the window or as near
to it as possible that you should place them.
For plants that like the light but not direct light you may want to posi on
the plant a li le away from the window.

Windows that Face East

These windows are good for plants that like moderate or morning sunlight
as they tend to get the most sunlight during the morning and will move to
shadow in the a ernoon.

The rays are also not as strong in the morning so if the plant is in the direct
light, it will not feel as intense as the rays of a southern facing window.
They will not be le in the sun for very long either as it moves through to
the a ernoon posi on.

Windows that Face North

North facing windows are more for a plant that likes to live in the shade
and usually only get warm during the summer months. In winter North
facing windows are not very good for growing plants.

It is best not to use these windows for growing plants and rather put plants
that love the shade in the more protected areas of the room that are
adorned with east or west facing windows.

Windows that Face West

West facing windows get the full force of the midday and a ernoon sun. In
the summer months, this can be rather strong and is a good place to
posi on plants that love to soak up the full force of the sun's rays. In the
summer months, these windows tend to keep warm into the early
evenings.

This is not a good place to put plants that only like indirect sunlight as they
could get damaged from overexposure to the sun. But finding a great
shady spot in the rooms that feature these windows is a good posi on for
plants that like indirect light and warm brightly lit spots.

How to Measure the Intensity of Light in a Room

There are various meters a person can buy on the market today that will
measure the intensity of light in a par cular room at various mes of the
day.

The old-fashioned way is to do so by measuring the shadow it casts in the

room. A strong sharp intense beam means it has a high/bright light, and
shadow that is a bit less defined is of moderate intensity and a room that
gets no light shadow is of a low light.

Crea ng Light for Houseplants

Ge ng the best ligh ng for indoor plants is quite a challenge as you have
to find the correct space in the house where the sun flow is just right. With
seasonal changes, it means having to reposi on the plant as the sun in the
winter me is nowhere near as strong as in the summer.

Then there is the lack of space a person may have in a house or apartment
or not enough windows to accommodate the plants. One way to help
houseplants get enough light is with ar ficial ligh ng.
It is important to remember when using ar ficial ligh ng that the plants
will need at least twelve hours a day of darkness. Just like we do, plants go
through day and night processes so if you are emula ng daylight you will
need to give them a period of the night as well. Most ligh ng op ons that
are specifically designed for growing plants do come with sophis cated
mers that will automa cally switch them off during the night.

There are a few op ons a person can look at to help increase the light flow
for houseplants:

For Larger Spaces - Halide Ligh ng

Halides are not cheap and are more for the serious plant atriums or larger
room spaces. These tend to be large bulbs that are used for growing
vegetables or larger plants and are found in hothouse environments. They
are sophis cated lamps that can be set to provide plants with a good
eighteen hours of intense light.
This type of ligh ng is be er for plants that need intense direct sunlight to
thrive.

Fluorescent Ligh ng

These are the most commonly used and are for indoor plants that need a
moderately warm, bright and lower ligh ng requirement. They can be set
to make a nice warm sunny environment for plants and come in varying
ranges of T5, T8, and T12. They are not as expensive to run as the Halides
are.

With fluorescents, they are a long tubular bulb and the thinner the bulb
the brighter it is, the thinner ones tend to be more efficient as well.

Incandescent Ligh ng

Incandescent lights tend to light up a room nicely, but they are not very
energy efficient for plants as only around ten percent of their light can be
used for energy whilst the rest of the light gives off heat. These lights are
good for plants that have a medium to low-ligh ng requirement.

Plants Best Suited for:

INDIRECT LOW LIGHT

Bamboo Palm (also known as reed palm)

Bamboo Palm-Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Birds Nest Fern

Birds-nest-fern- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Chinese Water Evergreen

Chinese water evergreen- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Cast Iron Plant

Cast Iron Plant-Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.
 Corn Plant (can be grown in indirect bright light).
Corn plant- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.

Grape Ivy
Grape Ivy- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.

Holly Fern
Holly fern- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Heart Leaf Philodendron

Heart leaf philodendron- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to
touch before watering.

Lady Palm (can be grown in indirect bright light)

Lady palm- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Maidenhair Fern (can be grown in indirect bright light)

Maidenhair fern- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Parlor Palm
Parlor Palm- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Pothos Plant
Pothos plant-Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.

Peace Lily
Peace lily-Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.
 Swedish Ivy
Swedish- ivy- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Wax Plant (can be grown in indirect bright light)

Wax plant- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.

INDIRECT BRIGHT LIGHT

African Violet
African violet- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Asparagus Fern
Asparagus fern- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Avocado
Avocado- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Cordyline
Cordyline- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.

Ficus (Many varie es belong to the fig genus)

Ficus- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering. Needs lots of humidity best to use humidifier.

Jade Plant
Jade plant- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.

Snake Plant (Some mes called Mother-in Law’s Tongue)

Snake plant- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.

Spider Plant
Spider plant- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Warneck Dracaena (can be grown in indirect low light)

Warneck dracaena- Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch
before watering.
DIRECT LIGHT

Century Plant
Century plant- Prefers infrequent watering, soil dry to touch before
watering.

Citrus Plant
Citrus plant- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Corn Plant (can be grown in indirect bright light)

Corn plant-Prefers infrequent watering, soil surface dry to touch before
watering.

Croton Plant
Croton plant- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Dumb Cane (can be grown in indirect bright light)

Dumb cane- Prefers infrequent watering, soil dry to touch before watering.

Dwarf Date Palm

Dwarf date palm- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

English Ivy (can be grown in indirect bright light)

English ivy-Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Fig Tree
Fig tree- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Fishtail Palm (can be grown in indirect bright light)

Fishtail palm- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Lady Palm
Lady palm- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Prayer Plant
Prayer plant- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Spider Plant (can be grown in indirect bright light)

Spider plant- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

TI Plant
Ti plant- Prefers infrequent watering, soil dry to touch before watering.

Umbrella Plant
Umbrella plant- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Wandering Jew
Wandering Jew - Prefers infrequent watering, soil dry to touch before
watering.

Wax Plant
Wax plant- Prefers infrequent watering, soil dry to touch before watering.

Yucca Plant
Yucca plant- Prefers infrequent watering, soil dry to touch before watering.
Flowering Plants

Most indoor flowering plants require direct light to maintain their bloom.
However, as with most blooming plants, once the flowers drop especially in
winter, there is li le chance of new ones blooming. Therea er, enjoy
flowering plants green foliage for ambiance in your home, or heaven
forbid! Throw out your plant.

Flowering Plants for Indoors

Azalea
Azalea- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Begonia
Begonia- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Cyclamen
Cyclamen- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Lilies
Lilies - Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.

Poinse a
Poinse a- Prefers frequent watering, keep soil moist.
Watering Your Plants
It would probably be safe to say that everyone knows that plants need
water to survive. But not everyone knows exactly when to water, or how
much.

Not all plants need the same amount of water or at the same me. Too
much water will play havoc on your plants as will too li le.

So, when do you water your plants?

Do you have an approach to your plants watering needs?

Well one thing is for certain, we all agree plants need water.

As simple as this may sound, if you don’t know your individual plants
watering needs, it won’t take long for your plant(s) to fade away to nothing
more than a dried s ck and die. To prevent this from happening, we just
need to know a li le bit more about how water affects your plants.
This starts with what kind of soil is in the pot, how much to water and
when. And, what are the room temperature, humidity, and light levels in
your home.

Plant Soil

When you buy a house plant, it is usually growing in a po ng soil mixture

of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite. This growing medium nourishes the
plants roots by retaining nutrients and crea ng small air pockets in the soil.
Because this soil mixture is loose and airy, water will drain quickly through
the mixture leaving just the right amount of moisture behind to be
absorbed by the plants roots.

To prevent access water from forming a puddle on your floor or carpet,

place the plant pot in a catch-tray or saucer that is large enough to retain
the water overflow. And, don’t forget to remove any buildup of water in
the catch-tray, especially if the pot holes sit in water.
Because this growing medium is so plant friendly, I strongly recommend
that when purchasing po ng soil for transplan ng; make sure the soil
includes the growing mixture.

When to Water
Before you water your plants, first check to see if the soil feels dry to the
touch. If it feels dry, insert a finger into the soil approximately two inches
deep and if it s ll feels dry, then it is me to water your plant.

Another popular method for tes ng soil moisture is using a soil moisture
meter. You can purchase one at most garden centers or at your local
nursery for a very reasonable price. Both of these methods work quite well
to make sure your plants have enough moisture in the soil, however to
keep your plants healthy, you must test the soil for moisture on a regular
schedule.

Humidity

The frequency when to water your plants will vary throughout the season
due to humidity change. Winter is the me of year with the least amount
of humidity in your home causing increased moisture evapora on from
your plants soil; therefore you will need to water your plants more
frequently.

Another sugges on and one I definitely recommend is placing a humidifier

in the near proximity of your plant(s). The use of a humidifier will
drama cally increase the humidity in a room and slow down soil moisture
evapora on. It will also help those plants whose leaves depend on high
humidity to stay healthy.

Here is a thought, if you have a large room with many plants and don’t
want to invest in more than one humidifier. Place a bowl almost full with
water near your plant for added humidity. Also, don’t forget to add water
to the bowl as it evaporates. And, because you love your plants, why not
purchase a thermometer that also shows a humidity reading. I have seen
many at garden outlets for around ten dollars.
While wri ng about humidity, another thought came into my mind that is
worth men oning. Because the sun is most intense in summer, any plants
that receive sun through your windows will experience an increase in the
loss of soil moisture. Get to know your plants room loca on and be sure to
check moisture loss more frequently for those plants that are exposed to
long hours of sunlight.

Temperature

Even though we love our indoor plants, it has been my experience that
most home owners will set the thermostat for their own comfort level
during cold temperatures and air condi oning set to a personal comfort
level during the summer months. And, no one including me can argue with
that. However, there are some things that can be done to help your plants
to stay healthy.

Locate all plants away from hea ng or a/c vents or dry and dra y areas,
and place your plant pot in a catch-tray or container filled with water. Add
enough pebbles to the catch-tray or container so that the pot holes remain
above the water line.

Salt

I cannot say it any clearer than this. Plants do not like salt! And, it is
probably something you would never think about when tending your
plants.

Your plants get soluble salt from fer lizer, but mostly from the water you
use when you water them. Depending on where you live, some areas of
the country have more soluble salt in drinking water than other areas of
the country. Yes, even well water is contaminated due to salt leaching from
the soil.

The first indica on of a salt build up in the plants soil is usually a white
powdery film on the soil surface, or you might no ce a white crust on the
pot rim or around the pot drainage holes.
Over me, salt build-up can lead to root damage and quite possibly be
absorbed into the plants stem causing stunted growth, or leaves turning
brown and crusty at the edge. Finally there will be a general wil ng of the
plant.

To prevent this problem from occurring, if it is too cold outside, place your
plant in the kitchen sink and water thoroughly to flush out any residual
water retained by the root system. Let the plant stand in the sink un l
most of the excess water drains through the pot holes before you move it
to the catch-tray or plant container.

Make sure you remove old water that may s ll be in the catch tray and
replace the old pebbles with new ones that are not contaminated with salt.
Add fresh water in the tray for added plant moisture, but not enough water
to enter the pot holes when the plant is si ng on the pebbles. Following
these steps will prevent further salt contamina on of plant roots.

If you’re feeling a li le rich these days, salt build up in the plants soil will
not happen if you water using only dis lled water.

What Plants Like

If your plant is stressed in any way; if it's ge ng too much water, if it's not
ge ng enough light, etc., just know that it's much more suscep ble to
pests, diseases and viruses. We're going to start with basic principles for
plant care.
Water

When it comes to interior plants, water is my favorite topic, because most

people do it way too o en. Once a week, some mes less, is all indoor
plants really need. You want the top quarter to half of the soil to feel dry
before you water again. Remember, the roots travel downward towards
the bo om of the pot.

I water my plants every ten to fourteen days, depending on how they look.
I've been working with and enjoying houseplants for so long that it's
ins nctual for me. You might want to schedule watering for every Sunday
so you don't over do it. If that top por on of the soil is s ll moist, then skip
it for at least a few days. Put it in your calendar so you can keep track.
You want the water to run all the way through the plant, but have no more
than a quarter to half inch accumulate in the saucer. If there's too much
water in the saucer the roots can rot out.

healthy roots = healthy plants

Roots are the founda on of the plant and they need oxygen to breath. If
you water your plants too much, then you're depriving the roots of the
oxygen they need.

Here are some important things to know when it comes to watering:

Use room temperature water. We wouldn't like ice cold or

boiling hot water poured on us either.
Speaking of ice cold, don't dump your ice cubes into your
houseplants.
The larger the pot, the more soil it holds and the slower it will
dry out.
Plants in lower light dry out slower and need less water.
If the top of the soil is s ll moist, resist the urge to water it even
though it's been ten days since the last watering.
If the soil of your plant's pot is covered with moss or rocks, it
will dry out slower.
 Different plants will dry out faster or need more water than
other plants.
Water your houseplants less o en in the winter, because it's a
slower growth me. Back off with the liquid love because they
like to rest a bit.
Put your plants out in the rain to flush out some of the buildup
in the soil. Make sure it's not a cold, hard, driving rain. Tie them
to something if you can so they don't blow over. It's a great way
to clean off the foliage too.
If the soil smells or you see ny flies (fungus gnats), your plant
is too wet.
Don't keep saucers full of water. Remember, you don't want the
roots to rot out.
If your plant has totally dried out, this is one me you want to
soak it well. Water it in a pail or saucer and let the roots drink
that water up for fi een minutes. Don't water it every day, but
let it come back up to its prior happy condi on and then
resume watering it as needed.

Guidelines for Watering

These guidelines can be applied to all plants. You'll find a link back to this
page on each plant page in the “List of Plants” sec on.

I wish I could tell you “water your Pothos every six days” and “water your
Rubber Plant every eight days” but it's not that cut and dry. Watering
amounts will vary depending on the plant and pot size, as well as the
temperature, ligh ng and humidity in your home. Most plants in this book
have an average to low need for water.
Average : Water when the top quarter to half of the soil is dry. Water every
one to two weeks.

Low : Allow the top half of the soil to dry out. Water every two to three
weeks.

Lower than low : No more than every three weeks. Succulents fall into this
category and know that you will kill them fast if they are kept too wet.

If you throw both hands up in the air when it comes to watering

houseplants but s ll want a li le greenery in your nice cozy home, here are
a few things you should consider:

A moisture meter : I've never used one, but there are a variety of them on
the market. They tell you when to water your plants.

A Watering App : It reminds you when to water your plants. This one is
free so it's worth checking out: Waterbot: Plants Watering.

Self-watering pots : You can find different styles and colors to suit your
decor.

Self-watering inserts and reservoirs: These go inside the decora ve pot.

With these last two op ons, you keep the reservoirs full and the plants
drink up the water as they need it.

Light

Light is essen al to all plants; they need it to photosynthesize. Simply put,

this is the process by which they use sunlight to the make food that makes
them green. Then they give off oxygen - we want that. One of the keys to
the survival of your plants is finding the right amount of light they need.

Most houseplants in this book like bright light but nothing direct or
scorching for hours on end. In their na ve environments, most of them
grow under the canopies of trees. The greenhouses they're grown in are
glass, fiberglass or plas c but are whitewashed or shade clothed to filter
out the strong sun.
Many plants will adapt to lower light situa ons but will grow much slower.
If your plant isn't ge ng enough light, the growth will be leggy and spindly.
The leaves could be smaller, appear less green, and may turn yellow. If the
light is too strong, the leaves will burn and you'll see large brown dry
patches. They could look parched or faded but too much light might
actually be the culprit.

Rotate your plants every now and then. They grow towards the
light because they need it to produce chlorophyll, which is what
keeps them green. Nobody wants to tan on only one side!
Plants are like people - they like it dark at night to sleep. This is
why some of the plants in commercial environs can suffer.
Make sure your lights are turned off for at least six hours so
your plants get the shuteye they need.
Move your plants a bit throughout the seasons. They might
need this as the light changes. A few inches can make a big
difference.
Don't have your plants up against glass. Ouch - this will burn
them. On the other hand, cold glass can do damage too.

Guidelines for Light

These guidelines can be applied to all plants. You'll find a link back to this
page on each plant page in the “List of Plants” sec on.
These will vary a bit depending on the number of windows you have, trees
shading your house, and if you keep your curtains or blinds closed. Use
your common sense to figure it out. Your plants will let you know if they're
happy or not.

High Light : Southern exposure with five to six hours of direct sun coming
in the windows every day. Make sure your plants are a good distance from
the windows or they'll burn. In most cases, high light doesn't mean hot,
direct sun. As a rule, the higher the light and the warmer the temps, the
more water your plant will need. Western exposure in combo with
southern exposure is brightest.
Medium Light : Western or eastern exposure with three hours of direct sun
coming in the windows every day. Southern exposure would be okay too if
the plant was a good distance from the window. Six to eight hours of bright
light would fit the bill too.

Low Light: Northern exposure with no direct sun coming in the windows.
All day electric ligh ng would be fine too. Know that low light is not no
light.

These next few paragraphs are a quick summariza on of how to

supplement light levels. If your ligh ng is adequate, then skip right on to
temperature.

Natural light is best for houseplants but o en mes our homes just don't
have enough of it. And, as ruled by Mother Nature, there's less of it in the
winter. It's important to know that high and medium light plants need
natural light. The mix of fluorescent and incandescent ligh ng that I will be
referring to below is for low light plants and low to medium light plants
only.

Fluorescent ligh ng gives plants the blue light they need. Most of us don't
think that tube ligh ng is too a rac ve or appealing. We wouldn't want to
hook a fluorescent light system up in our homes so it's good to know that
CFL (compact fluorescent lights) bulbs exist. These just screw into a
standing or tabletop light fixture which takes at least a hundred-wa bulb.
How many you need depends on how low your light levels are.
Houseplants also need red light which is provided by incandescent lights.
You want a nice balance of both fluorescent and incandescent light, in a
ra o of two to one. Be sure not to leave your lights on all night. Even plants
in low light situa ons require at least six hours of darkness.

Temperature;

I'm not going into detail about this but, if your home is comfortable to you,
then it should be so for your plants too. The greenhouses that they're
grown in are also air condi oned and heated to keep the temperature
rela vely constant.

Humidity;

The plants in this book, succulents aside, really like humidity. Most homes,
unless you live in the desert, offer decent enough humidity. There are ways
to increase humidity if you think you must.

You can buy a humidifier; there are actually some tabletop models on the
market. Another way to increase humidity is to spray the plant with water,
but that gets a li le labor intensive. Plus, your floor may not be very happy
if you do it every day. Glasses of water can be put around the plant or
tucked inside the decora ve container. Lastly, trays or saucers filled with
pebbles and water will help. Just make sure the grow pot does not sit
directly in the water.

Air Circula on

Remember, these plants are grown in greenhouses with fans and vents to
the outside world. They do like air from the great outdoors, but the plants
in this book were used in office environments with recycled air and li le
circula on. Most of them had a good survival rate.

* When the weather warms up, be sure to open your windows if you can.

* Keep plants out of ght corners and places with li le natural air and
circula on.

* A ceiling fan or small fan will help circulate the air in your home if need
be.
Fer lizing

I'm not big on fer lizers for plants in the garden, but I do believe in them
for houseplants. The soil gets “old” a er a while and loses nutrients.
However, resist the urge to do it too o en. Salts from the fer lizers can
build up in the soil and you don't want that. A white crust will form on the
soil, the ends of the leaves will look burned and damage can be done to
the roots.
If that happens, be sure and take your plant to the sink, tub, or outside to
give it a good flushing. If you water has a lot of salts in it, this will be an
ongoing problem.

Over fer lizing is as bad as if not worse than over watering. You will burn
the roots of your plants.
Fer lizing twice a year is usually enough and should only be done during
the ac ve growing season, which is Spring through late Summer.

Use an organic fer lizer that you water in.

Use the fer lizer at less than the recommended dose. That way
you won't overdo it.
Never fer lize plants when they are bone dry. Water first, wait
five to seven days and then fer lize. You don't want to stress
the plant or burn the roots.
Two organic houseplant fer lizers to try:
Organics Rx Indoor Plant Food
Houseplants Alive!

Cleaning

Plants are like people. We all like to be clean. The dust and dirt that builds
up on the leaves can block their pores. Plants need to breath, and if you
keep them clean, they'll look be er too.
If you can't take them outside or want to do it in the colder months, then
use a damp, so towel or rag to wipe down plants with larger leaves. The
method works great for plants like Dracaena Janet Craig, Ficus lyrate and
Aspidistra.

You can also use a spray bo le filled with room temperature water and
mist the heck out of them. A li le white vinegar plus a few drops of a mild
dish soap added will help with the cleaning. If this is going to be long,
drawn out process then be sure to cover the surface of your plant’s soil so
it doesn't get drenched. And, be sure to protect your floors because the
soap will be slippery or could damage them.

There are some natural leaf shines out there, as well as recipes to make
your own, but I don't think they are necessary.
Some addi onal cleaning ps to keep in mind:

Never use oils to clean and polish your plants.

If your plants are really dusty and dirty, consider use a so
brush or so toothbrush (for smaller plants) to give them a
good cleaning.
Clean on a regular basis so the grime doesn't build up.
A rain shower is a great way to clean your plants.
Jades and Aloes don't like cleaning in the winter. Take them
outside and give them a good hose down when the weather
warms up.

Pruning

I love to prune and must admit that I'm a bit of a maniac with the Felcos in
my garden. However, I very rarely prune my houseplants, because there's
rarely a need. There are a few reasons why you may need to do it, and if
one of them arises, just make sure your pruners or scissors are very clean
and sharp. You can find a blog post and a video tutorial showing how to
clean and sharpen your pruner s on my website.
Reasons to prune:

Remove brown ps caused by salts in the water, dry air or

irregular watering.
Thin out leaves, stems or branches, whether it be for aesthe c
reasons or for the health of the plant.
Control shape
Restrict height
Propaga on

Soil

Many plants come from the growers planted with a good amount of
crushed, dark orange lava rock or perlite mixed in. This aids with drainage
and keeps them from ro ng out. You don't want your plant in heavy soil.
When you need to transplant it, be sure to use a good, organic po ng soil.
Make sure it specifies on the bag that it's suitable for indoor plants or
houseplants.
Jade plants, snake plants, and aloes must have soil with excellent drainage
to keep them on the dry side. You can use the same po ng soil that you
would for the other plants in this book, but be sure to keep them very dry.
You can also add some small crushed rock, perlite, or hor cultural sand to
lighten the soil and amend the drainage. Or, you can buy a mix that is
specially formulated for cactus and succulents.

Just be sure not to use a regular plan ng mix, because it's way
too heavy for houseplants.
The soil needs to drain. Make sure the pot they're growing in
has drain holes.

Repo ng
The rule to follow is this: the more a plant grows, the larger a pot it will
need to accommodate the root growth. Think of it like this: children need
bigger shoes as their bodies get bigger. Houseplants do grow slower than
plants in the garden, so don't feel the need to repot every year.

I increase the size of a pot about every three years and only go up one pot
size. Use your common sense when transplan ng. If a plant is eight feet tall
and crammed in a ten inch pot then you could easily go to a fourteen inch
grow pot.

Here's how I do it: lay down a sheet or tarp to protect the floor. Then run a
knife or pruning saw, depending on the circumference of the pot, around
the very edge of the root ball to loosen it away from the pot. Chances are it
won't just fall out easily, so squeeze the pot to help it on its way. I've had to
step on (gently - no lead foot stomping here) and rotate the pots of floor
plants to get them out. If all else fails, cut the grow pot away if you can.

Cover the drain holes of the new pot with pieces of coffee filters. This
keeps the fresh, loose soil you'll add in from falling right out. You could use
a layer of newspaper for this because it works just fine too.

Eyeball the depth, or height, of the root ball to so see how much soil needs
to be dumped into the bo om of the pot. You can measure the root ball
and then measure inside the pot if this works be er for you.

At this point, you can water that soil in so it compacts down. Add more soil
in to build it back up if needed. I tend to do this step dry and then water it
all at once at the end. I leave the root ball up an extra inch or so because
the weight of the root ball will pull it down. How much you leave it up
depends on the overall weight of the plant - you can always go back in a
month or so and top dress with a li le more soil.
Fill in around the sides of the root ball with soil, water in and viola, you're
done.

Some addi onal repo ng ps to keep in mind:

 If your plant is ge ng too tall, prune it down and then repot it
a couple of months later. Doing both at the same me may
make it unhappy.
Make sure the pot you're plan ng it into is clean.
Be gentle with the roots. You can knead to loosen them a bit
but no heavy manipula on here please.
Don't fer lize your plant when you transplant. Wait at least a
month or so un l it has se led into its new home.
If you plant directly into a decora ve pot, then you may have to
sacrifice that pot when you go to transplant it. I once had to
break an urn-shaped ceramic pot because I just couldn't get the
root ball out.

Propaga on

Not everyone who has houseplants wants to propagate them so I'm going
to touch lightly on this topic.

Most houseplants can be propagated in water if the stems aren't too great
in diameter. I always take my cu ngs at an angle. Make sure you have a
node or two below the water line at all mes. The higher up the water line,
the higher up the roots will appear. This will ma er if you want the plant to
have more stem (cane).
Plants like Dracaeanas and Scheffleras which have go en leggy can be
rejuvenated by cu ng the canes down to the desired height. Nodes with
new growth will eventually appear. This will take a while so be pa ent.

Air layering is a bit more complicated and me consuming. So is the seed

method. Palms are propagated this way. Best, and easiest, to s ck with the
first two methods of propaga on
What Plants Don't Like
Pests
I'll start this sec on off with pests, buggies and insects. Call them what you
please, but your plant may get an infesta on at some point. Houseplants
are subject to many pests, the most common being mealy bugs and spider
mites. I'm touching lightly on this subject because, hopefully, you won't
ever have to deal with them, or if you do, you'll catch them in the early
stages. Most pests can be treated with the same remedies. If you refer to
this sec on, at least you'll be informed as to what the pest is and what to
do for it.
Below are the insects I've seen most commonly infes ng houseplants, so
keep your eye out for:
Mealybugs
These ny white insects actually leave behind a trail that looks like li le
pieces of co on. The males have wings. Mealy bugs especially like to hang
out in the nodes and the undersides of the leaves. Your plant can become
s cky because of the substance they secrete. Also, there are root mealy
bugs which dwell in the soil on the roots of the plant. They are hard to
detect and even harder to control. Just because your plant has mealy bugs
on the stems or foliage, it doesn't mean they have root mealy bugs too.
Scale
These are the size of a large pinhead and have a hard outer shell which is
brown or black. Because of their protec ve coa ng, they can be hard to get
rid of. If the infesta on isn't bad, then I'd recommend picking them off by
hand. There is also a type of scale which has a so er body. As with other
insects that secrete a s cky substance, the foliage can blacken and look like
soot.
Spider Mites
These li le cri ers seem to appear out of nowhere when the heat comes
on in the winter. They are microscopic specks o en mes red, brown, or
yellow in color. A bad infesta on can produce webbing. Spider mites
especially like to hang out under the leaves.
Aphids
They are usually green, but can also be orange or black, and are the size of
a pinhead. Aphids love new growth and can usually be found there. They
can secrete a s cky substance.
Whiteflies
These look exactly like their name - small white flies. They're usually found
underneath the leaves. We used to get them in our greenhouse.
Fungus Gnats
These small, dark flies hatch in the soil. They don't damage the plants, but
can be an annoyance to you. No worries though, because they don't bite.
They are short lived, but lay a lot of eggs. Let the soil dry out as much as it
will take.
Thrips
I've seen infesta ons of thrips many mes on outdoor plants, but rarely on
those indoors. They're teeny ny, black-winged insects and cause
splotching on the leaves. When the infesta on gets bad, the leaf takes on a
silvery sheen. Be sure to check the undersides of the leaves, because like
other buggies, that's where they tend to dwell.
My houseplants have fortunately lived their li le green lives pest free so
far. I'm an organic gardener so if needed, I would treat them with rubbing
alcohol or vinegar, with a few drops of mild dish soap added in. Be careful
with these. Even though they are natural remedies, if you use too strong a
concentra on, you can burn the plant.
If you catch pests in the early stages, then you can take the plant to the
sink or shower and give it a spray off. The succulents in my garden get
aphids and I have at it with the garden hose to get rid of them. Be sure to
get in the nodes and the under sides of the leaves too.
Remedies :
* Apple Cider Vinegar. One tablespoon per pint spray bo le along with two
drops of dish soap. Fill with water.
* Rubbing Alcohol. One eighth to one quarter cup per pint spray bo le
along with two drops of dish soap. Fill with water.
* S cky Yellow Traps. Good for flying insects like whiteflies and fungus
gnats. You can find them online here.
* Blue S cky Traps. Good for thrips control. You can find them online here.
* Neem Oil is considered a natural insec cide and fungicide. Many people
swear by it for ge ng rid of pests on houseplants. If you want to try Neem,
you can find it online here.
* Insec cidal soap and hor cultural oil. You can also purchase insec cidal
soap or hor cultural oil, but I think it's just as easy to make your own. This
is important: if you're using any of the above three, just make sure what
you are buying is safe to use on houseplants and apply only at the
recommended ra os. A bad infesta on doesn't mean you should increase
the ra o.
Methods:
* Washing or Hosing
* Spraying. A hand-held sprayer in whatever size fits your needs. Unless
you have a lot of plants, a pint-size one will do the trick.
* Wiping Down. Use a so , damp rag to wipe the leaves off. You can dunk it
into a pail with dish soap and a li le cider vinegar if you have a lot of leaves
to do. Don't use that cloth on non-infested plants un l you thoroughly
clean it.
* Q-Tip or Co on Ball. Dip the p or ball in a mixture of one-to-one alcohol
to water and dab it on the insect. This method is good for mealybugs and
scale. Growing up we had a home greenhouse and this was the method my
dad had me use for ge ng the upper hand on mealybugs on our giant Jade
plant.
* Hand Picking. This works on scale.
Drenching. This works on fungus gnat larvae s ll living in the soil. As said
above, make sure you let the soil completely dry first. Mix one tablespoon
apple cider vinegar per gallon of water and use it to water the infected
plant a you normally would for three to four watering cycles
This is important: if the insect infesta on is bad, it's best to bid the plant
adieu. Repeated treatments will weaken the plant or the insects could
build up immunity to whatever you're using. Besides, who wants to spend
all their free me trea ng plants? Send it to the great compost bin in the
sky and start with a fresh, new plant. Your other plants will thank you!
Other things to know about pests:
* Make sure any houseplants you're buying and bringing home are insect
free. They're ghtly displayed at the nursery or garden center making it
easy for the cri ers to travel from plant to plant.
* If your plants have been enjoying the warmer months outdoors, then be
sure to hose them off well before bringing indoors. This prevents buggy
hitchhikers which will become a problem fast.
* Treat when you first see signs of insects. You have a much be er chance
of ge ng the upper hand if you do this. Like anything, the longer you wait
to treat, the worse it will get.
* Pests in general love the tender, juicy new growth (it's oh so easy to chew
on and suck the good stuff out of) so be sure to check it from me to me.
* It is very important to treat the undersides of the leaves too. Buggies love
to breed and hang out there. It's a good place for them to hide from you.
You might need to get a magnifying glass to see them.
* If you see a black substance on your houseplants that looks like soot, it's
the residue le behind by aphids, mealybugs, scale or whiteflies.
* Insects par cularly like it when you turn your heat on, so keep your eye
out for them at that me.
* You will have to do repeated treatments at seven to ten day intervals for
four weeks to get the insects under control.
* If one plant is infested, isolate it from your other plants during the
treatment period.
* Keep the leaves of your houseplants clean.
* Plants with fuzzy leaves don't like being sprayed.
Other Things Houseplants Don't Like:
* Direct heat. Don't place plants on or close to heaters. Even though they
like warmer temperatures, a heater will fry them. If you don't like it, your
plants won't either.
* Air condi oners. On the other end of the spectrum, they don't like being
in front of blowing cold air. Brrrr.
* Dra y windows and doors. Good air circula on is necessary, but a cold
dra doesn't qualify as that.
* Hot, strong sunlight. Light is necessary, but too much hot sun is sure to
burn your plants.
* Deep, dark corners. All plants need some light, even if it's ar ficial, and
as I men oned above, they need air circula on too.
* Smoke. Cough, cough. It's not good for us and it's not good for your
plants either.
* Dust. Plants breathe through their leaves and a buildup of too much dust
will hinder that. We want that wonderful oxygen they give off.
* Too much water. I've said it before, but it's worth repea ng. Don't empty
your glass into a plant every me you have something le in it. You might
like soda, beer, or juice, but plants don't. Make sure water is not
accumula ng in their saucers.
* Ice. Don't dump it in your houseplants. Remember, they're na ve to the
tropics not the polar Arc c. They don't like freezing water. It could also lead
to houseplant public enemy #1: overwatering.
* Ki es. Some of them love to chew on the crunchy leaves of some plants.
However, both ki es and houseplants can cohabit peacefully in your home
together. I have two cats and one of them will munch on my plants while
the other doesn't pay any a en on to them at all. Oscar is par cularly fond
of the Dracaena marginata and my Bromeliad, so both have been moved to
spots he can't get to. Buying some cat grass would be an op on too. I've
also heard that some like to play in the dirt. You might want to consider
covering the pot's surface with moss, stones or glass chips to keep Fluffy
from digging.
Easiest to Grow Houseplants
Growing and crea ng fresh air in your home or office doesn’t have to be
difficult. Many houseplants do not require a lot of care, sunlight, or water.
If you have a brown thumb rather than a green one, the plants in this
chapter are a good place to start.
All the plants in this chapter are hardy plants that are easy to take care of
and can withstand neglect. Most of these plants only require watering a
maximum of once per week, many less frequently than that. Most of these
plants also do well in low ligh ng or shade, which makes them great for
interiors, especially office buildings where there may not be many windows
for natural light.

Each plant is listed with a picture of the plant for reference, an explana on
of the toxins it cleans from the air, maintenance instruc ons, and toxicity
to children and pets. This informa on should be sufficient to allow you to
decide the best plants to choose for your home or office, based on your
personal situa on.

The NASA studies on indoor pollu on done in 1989 recommends 15 to 18

plants in 6 to 8-inch- diameter containers to clean the air in an average
1,800 square foot house. That's roughly one plant per 100 square feet of
floor space. This will apply to most plants described below.
Pigmy Date Palm (Phoenix Robeline)

The pygmy date palm is na ve to tropical areas of Asia. However, you can
easily find them in nurseries around the globe. The pygmy date palm
removes several toxins from the air including formaldehyde, xylene, and
toluene. The pygmy date palm can survive in low sunlight, and through
moderate drought condi ons. This means that it is suitable for indoors and
does not have to be by a window. Typically, pygmy date palms stay
adequately moist if you water them once each week.

This plant is non-toxic for children and pets. Pruning pygmy palm trees is
some mes necessary to keep its growth manageable, especially in smaller
se ngs. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiors capes and
commercial plan ngs due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop potassium or
magnesium deficiency.

Boston Fern (Nephrolepisexaltata)

The Boston fern is a common houseplant and does well in indirect light.
Na ve to tropical climates of South America, Florida, and Africa, this plant
does require frequent watering. However, it is somewhat resistant to
drought, so forge ng to water it for a few days will not harm it.

The best indoor temperature range for these voluptuous plants is between
68 F and 78 F
It does require high humidity to thrive, so if your humidity is below 80%,
you should mist it with water frequently. If you wish to avoid mis ng, pair
the Boston Fern in a room with a plant that expels water into the air, such
as an areca palm. The Boston fern cleans the air of formaldehyde, xylene,
and toluene and can be grown in either a pot or hanging basket. This plant
is non-toxic to children and pets.

Kimberley Queen Fern (Nephrolepis obliterate)

The Kimberley Queen fern is not as well-known as the Boston fern, but is
very similar in many respects, including appearance. Origina ng in
Australia, this plant is easily found in garden centers and nurseries. It is not
as sensi ve to humidity as the Boston fern, so it does not have to be
frequently misted. Allow the top two or three inches of soil to dry out
before watering again. The fronds of a Kimberly Queen turn a pale green
when the plant needs water. Crispy brown fronds, especially in the center
of the plant, indicate too much water. A Kimberly Queen does well in
temperatures between 60-85 degrees. If the temperature goes below 60,
this fern won't die but it will stop growing.

Like the Boston fern, the Kimberley Queen fern filters formaldehyde,
xylene, and toluene from the air. This plant is non-toxic to children and
pets.

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum Como sum)

The spider plant is one of the easiest houseplants to grow in your home for
fresh air. It survives in a variety of climates and is resistant to drought. It
does best with indirect sunlight. The spider plant cleans the air of
formaldehyde, xylene, and toluene, and it is non-toxic to children and
pets.

Caring for spider plants is easy. These resilient plants tolerate lots of abuse,
making them excellent candidates for new gardeners or those without a
green thumb. Provide them with well-drained soil and bright, indirect light
and they will flourish. Water them well but do not allow the plants to
become too soggy, which can lead to root rot. In fact, spider plants prefer
to dry out some between watering. When caring for spider plants, also
take into account that they enjoy cooler temperatures — around 55 to 65 F

If you begin to no ce spider plant leaves browning, there’s no need to

worry. Browning of leaf ps is quite normal and will not harm the plant.

Devil’s Ivy (Epipremnumaureum)

Devil’s ivy is so called because it is virtually impossible to kill. This makes it
a great houseplant for people who do not do well caring for plants. It
requires li le care and a en on, simply water it occasionally. Devil’s ivy
cleans the air of benzene, formaldehyde, xylene, and toluene. All por ons
of devil’s ivy are toxic if consumed, so keep the plant well out of the reach
of children and pets. Also keep in mind that because some people have an
allergic reac on to the sap, you should consider wearing gloves when
you're pruning the plant.

Indoor Ivy typically range from 6 to 8 feet in length if le unpruned. The

vine produces waxy, heart-shaped foliage variegated with bright yellow and
green, the size of the leaves depends on where the plant is cul vated.
Indoors, the leaves may reach about 4 inches in length. If you're growing it
in containers, an all-purpose, peaty po ng mix that drains well is adequate
for proper growth.
Situate the plant an area that receives filtered sunlight or bright ar ficial
light for op mal growth. You should water houseplants deeply – un l it
runs from the bo om drainage holes – approximately once a week or
when the top inch or two of soil feels dry. During winter, cut back on
watering to about once every other week.

Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema modestum)

The Chinese evergreen is a very easy houseplant to care for. It thrives well
in low light condi ons and does not require frequent watering. This makes
it ideal for people who do not have a lot of me to spend caring for plants.
The Chinese evergreen filters the air of benzene and formaldehyde. This
plant is highly toxic to children and pets. A dermatological reac on is
common when touching the plant’s crystals.

Chinese evergreen plants thrive in medium to low light condi ons, or

indirect sunlight. These plants prefer temperatures no lower than 60 F. (16
C.) with average indoor temps ranging between 70-72 F.

Chinese evergreens require an evenly moist soil environment and high

humidity. Aglaonema cannot tolerate dry air, so water the plant un l the
soil is moderately moist. Allow a bit of drying out between watering as
heavy or excessive watering may lead to fungal problems such as stem or
root rot.

Selloum philodendron (Philodendron bipinna fidum)

A Philodendron Selloum or Tree Philodendron is na ve to South America,
but also grows outdoors on the East and Gulf coasts of the United States.
Indoors, the easy-care, self-heading Philodendron Selloum takes up a lot of
space, o en spreading 5 . or more with 2 .-3 . leaves. The dark green,
shiny leaves are large and deeply lobed. A Selloum does grow a trunk as it
matures, but the huge drooping leaves usually hide it.

These plants are considered toxic and should be kept away from pets and
children.
The selloum philodendron is a hearty tropical plant from South America. In
its natural habitat, it has lots of direct sunlight, so it does adapt well to a
shaded environment. It does not require frequent watering, but you may
need to occasionally trim it back as it grows. This houseplant cleans the air
of formaldehyde.

Elephant Ear Plant (Philodendron domes cum)

The elephant ear plant is another of the philodendron family, which is a

hearty family of plants that can withstand neglect. It only needs to be
watered when the soil becomes dry, and it does not need to be in direct
sunlight.

This houseplant will clean the air of formaldehyde and is highly toxic to
pets and kids. It does not do well in hanging baskets, so if you have small
pets or children, keep it on a high shelf or choose from one of the other
many op ons for growing fresh air.
Grow elephant ears in moist, loamy soil with a high organic ma er content.
They are easy to maintain once you get them going.

Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata)

The snake plant is an extremely easy houseplant to care for. It tolerates low
light very well and can be placed virtually anywhere in the home.
The snake plant also tolerates infrequent watering and prefers less water,
as soggy soil leads to ro ng roots. The snake plant is one of the best for air
purifica on. It exchanges carbon dioxide for oxygen using a crassulacean
acid metabolism process not common in many plants. It will also purify
your air of benzene, formaldehyde, trichloroethylene, xylene, and toluene.
This plant is toxic to children and pets.

Snake plants do best with a free-draining soil mix, because they are easily
prone to rot. Allow soil to dry between watering and take extra special care
not to over water in winter. Try to avoid ge ng leaves wet when you water.
Red Edged Dracaena (Dracaena marginata)

The red edged dracaena is a great houseplant because it requires li le

a en on. It does best in filtered or indirect sunlight and tolerates
infrequent watering.

The red edges of this easy dracaena bring a pop of color, and the shrub can
grow to reach your ceiling. This plant is best for removing xylene,
trichloroethylene and formaldehyde, which can be introduced to indoor air
through lacquers, varnishes and gasoline.

Temperature shi s may cause those red-edged leaves to yellow and even
die back. The perfect temperature for your plant is between 60 to 70
degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 50 to 60 degrees at night. Take care
not to posi on a po ed Dracaena near a heater or a window that allows in
chilly breezes.

There are many dracaena plants. This dis nc ve version is dis nguished by
the purple-red edges on its ribbon-like green leaves. Although it grows
slowly, it can eventually get as high as 15 feet tall, so perhaps put it in a
room with high ceilings and moderate sunlight. This plant is toxic to
children and pets.

Dumb Canes (Dieffenbachia)

Dumb Canes is a good houseplant that requires moderate care. The soil
does need to be kept moist as well as a moderate amount of filtered
sunlight, such as from a nearby window. This houseplant doesn’t filter very
many toxins, only doing a good job of canceling out xylene and toluene.
However, it will help generate clean oxygen for your home.

This plant is extremely toxic to children and pets. The sap of the plant is
acrid, and when ingested can numb the throat and vocal cords, rendering
the vic m mute for up to two weeks un l the poison wears off. The sap is
highly irrita ng to the skin, and any interac ons with the plant which result
in sap exposure should be washed thoroughly.
Maybe consider this plant for an adult household with no kids or pets.

Janet Craig (Dracaena deremensis)

The Janet Craig house plant is a great plant that requires very li le care. It
is very tolerant of neglect, does not require a lot of water, and can thrive in
any type of ligh ng.

Most plants grown for interior use are 10-inch pots with 3 plants per pot,
ranging in height of 24-32 inches. Some 14-inch pots are grown as well
with 4 plants per pot and reach a height of 30-42 inches.

Dracaena deremensis cul vars do not like heat. This is very important to
remember especially during summer months when plants have a tendency
to discolor.

Recommended maximum temperature is 90 degrees. As temperatures

increase above 95 degrees, problems with leaf discoloring and leaf
notching may develop.

This houseplant filters the air of benzene, formaldehyde, and

trichloroethylene. This plant is highly toxic to children and pets.

Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

The parlor palm is a very good choice for a houseplant if you like the idea
of tree-like plants but don’t want something that will grow very large. The
parlor palm will only reach a height of about three feet maximum. It is a
popular houseplant because it is extremely easy to care for.

Growing a parlor palm tree indoors is ideal because it grows very slowly
and thrives in low light and cramped space. Water your indoor parlor palm
sparingly – underwatering is be er than overwatering. Allow the soil to
begin to dry between watering, and water even less in the winter.

If you’re plan ng a parlor palm tree indoors, opt for a few plants in the
same container. Individual plants grow straight up and look more a rac ve
and filled out in a group. Parlor palm houseplants have rela vely weak root
systems and don’t mind crowding, so don’t transplant more o en than
necessary.

Parlor Palm Plant Care. Temperature: Average warmth 65°F (18°C) and
above is fine and no less than 50°F (10°C) at night.

It does best in low light rooms away from windows, and with infrequent
watering. It is also preferred to many other tree-like houseplants because it
is non-toxic to dogs, cats, and children. The parlor palm, like other palms,
will clean the air of benzene, formaldehyde, and carbon monoxide.
Swiss Cheese Plant (Monstera deliciosa)

The Swiss cheese plant is a houseplant with large, bushy leaves. It can grow
up to two to three feet tall at maturity with good growth condi ons. It is a
good houseplant to have because it is low maintenance.

The Swiss cheese vine plant prefers full sun but will adapt to par al shade.
It also enjoys a moist, well-drained soil. This plant grows best in warm
condi ons and requires high humidity.

Monstera needs lots of space: Put it in an open environment spot in the

living room, rather than in a ght corner or on a windowsill.

Monstera can grow up trees and other plants in the rainforest, and would
benefit from some support indoors, too. Consider adding a small trellis or
pole nearby.

If you can’t commit to a whole Monstera plant—or if yours is running

rampant—trim a leaf or two and stand them upright in a clear glass vase.
The plant needs warm interior temperatures of at least 65 degrees
Fahrenheit (18 C.) or warmer. Swiss cheese plant also needs moderately
moist soil and high humidity

The Swiss cheese plant was not part of the original study done by NASA.
However, it is a good houseplant to have for air quality because it will
eliminate carbon dioxide and add humidity to the air. This plant is toxic to
children and pets.
Neem Tree (Azadirachta indica)

The neem tree is a great addi on to your home. It is very easy to care for,
requiring bright sunlight and weekly watering for moist soil. The neem tree
is well known for its medicinal proper es, which should be used with
cau on due to some poten al side effects, primarily for women. The plant
should not be idly ingested by children or pets. The neem tree is one of the
best plants to absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen into the air,
although it has not been studied for its effects on other air pollutants.

Your neem house plant will ini ally grow slowly, but once it is a year old it
should take off, provided you look a er it well enough.

Overwatering is probably the biggest risk for your neem tree. They really
can't stand wet feet and can get problems with fungi and root rot. The
most important thing for a neem tree is warmth and lots of sunlight. The
more of both it gets, the faster it will grow.

Neem tree habitats are naturally hot and dry. The tree can tolerate
temperatures up to 122 degrees Fahrenheit, but it cannot cope with cold;
temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit cause the tree's leaves to fall
and can kill the tree. Neem tree's ideal temperature range is around 50 to
98 degrees Fahrenheit.

Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)

The jade plant has lush, full greenery that is perfect for dilu ng carbon
dioxide in the air and releasing fresh oxygen. It is extremely easy to care
for. While it does need plenty of bright indirect sunlight, it does not require
frequent watering. It prefers a drier soil, so only water when the top inch
of the soil is dry, once every week or two. This plant is non-toxic to children
and pets.

Jade plants grow best at room temperature (65 to 75°F) but prefer slightly
cooler temperatures at night and in the winter (55°F). Keep soil moist but
not wet during ac ve growth in the spring and summer. Allow soil to dry
between watering in the winter. Avoid splashing water on the leaves while
watering if you can.

Song of India (Pleomelereflexa)

The song of India, or Pleomele plant, is a beau ful and easy to grow
houseplant. The large leaves and dense foliage make it perfect for
genera ng oxygen and elimina ng carbon dioxide in the home. It is a very
good plant if you don’t have a lot of gardening knowledge. It needs low to
medium light and watered only about once a week. It does some mes
require pruning of lower leaves to promote more dense foliage. This plant
is slightly toxic to pets.

Like all Dracaenas, the Reflexavariegata likes to be kept on the dry side.
Always allow the top 50% of the soil to dry out before watering. High
humidity is very helpful for this plant to truly flourish. Basic household
temperatures between 65-85 degrees are ideal for the Dracaena
Reflexavariegata.

Additional Plants for Your Home

The plants in this chapter are some of the more exo c and expensive
houseplants that you can buy to grow fresh air in your home. Many of
these plants are easy to care for but can either be very expensive or grow
to be very large. Consider carefully before ge ng one of these plants for
your home. They can be great conversa on pieces and well worth the
investment if you can care for them.

Some of these plants are trees that get very large, or they are exo c plants
that may be harder to find. Some of these plants are harder to care for, and
you may need to get further instruc ons from the providing nursery for the
plants' care and growth. A few of the plants are not common as
houseplants but can be grown indoors with care.
Again, each plant is listed with a picture for reference, how it purifies the
air, toxicity ra ngs, and instruc ons for care. This informa on is provided
to help you decide whether you want these plants in your home. You may
want to consult the nursery you purchase them for addi onal informa on
on the more exo c plants.

Areca Palm (Chrysalidocarpuslutescens)

The areca palm is na ve to tropical and subtropical climates but is typically

available from most nurseries and garden centers. The adolescent or
mature plants can be very expensive, so it is best to get this as a table top
plant and grow it to maturity. The areca palm does require sunlight and
should be placed near a south or west facing the window. It needs to be
watered frequently enough to keep the soil damp. This plant grows about
six to ten inches each year un l it reaches a height of six to seven feet at its
maturity.
You can trim the fronds to keep the plant smaller for use as an indoor
plant. It will need to be repo ed every two years and has a lifespan of
about ten years. Studies have shown that the areca palm cleans the air of
formaldehyde, xylene, and toluene. It also adds humidity to the air,
releasing approximately one liter of water every 24 hours. This plant is
non-toxic to children

and pets.

Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina)

The weeping fig is a tree rather than a tradi onal houseplant. It does work
well as a houseplant because it requires very li le care to maintain. It only
needs to be watered when the soil becomes dry, and it does well in
considerable shade. As a tree, it will need to be pruned or replaced when it
grows to considerable size. The weeping fig will cleanse your air of
formaldehyde, xylene, and toluene. This plant is toxic to pets.
King of Hearts (Homalomenawallisii)

The king of hearts houseplant is common, but hard to care for. It requires a
temperate climate that is not cold but also not above 75 degrees. It also
requires frequent watering, but the soil cannot be too soggy. This plant is
very sensi ve and is more easily maintained by someone with a talent for
caring for plants. The king of hearts will filter the air of xylene and toluene.
This plant is toxic to children and pets.
Aloe Vera

Aloe Vera is a very useful houseplant in more ways than one. Although the
science is conflicted on the use of Aloe Vera medicinally, it is frequently
used to soothe burns and minor cuts. Aloe will also filter the air of benzene
and formaldehyde, and it generates oxygen. This houseplant does best in
lots of light and po ed in a very sandy soil. It does not require a lot of
water and needs a pot with good drainage. This plant is toxic to children
and pets.
Lady Palm (Rhapisexcelsa)

The lady palm is another tree that you can bring indoors for air quality. This
tree is na ve to sub-tropical climates and does best in a room with higher
humidity. If your home has low humidity, you may want to spray the lady
palm with a fine mist of warm water every few days. You also want to keep
the soil moist, although this houseplant does well in low light or filtered
light. The lady palm will filter the air of carbon dioxide, formaldehyde,
xylene, and ammonia. This plant is non-toxic to children and pets.

Red Emerald (Philodendron erubescens)

The red emerald is a very common and popular houseplant that eradicates
toxins from the air. It filters all common harmful toxins, including benzene,
formaldehyde, trichloroethylene, xylene, toluene, and ammonia. This
houseplant is fairly easy to care for. It does well in low light condi ons, but
it does be er in higher humidity. Keep it watered and occasionally mist if
your home is dry. This plant is toxic to children and pets.
Schefflera (Brassaiaac nophylla)

The Schefflera, also known as an umbrella tree, is a good houseplant to

have for ge ng rid of toxins and genera ng oxygen. The Schefflera
eliminates benzene, formaldehyde, xylene, and toluene from the air. It
requires medium and indirect sunlight and should only be watered when
the soil becomes dry. This plant is toxic to children and pets.
Ficus "Alii" (Ficus maclellandii)

This small tree is a hybrid that has been cul vated for use as an indoor
houseplant. The ficus alii is a good houseplant for removing toxins from the
air including benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene. It is also good
for genera ng oxygen and limi ng carbon dioxide. It is very easy to care for
and exists well in low light with frequent watering. This plant is toxic to
children and pets.
Dracaena "Warneckei" (Dracaena dermensis)

The Dracaena Warneckei is a tree that can be grown indoors with minimal
effort. It is common in office spaces because it does not require frequent
watering and it survives well in low light and ar ficial light. The Warneckei
filters the air of benzene and generates oxygen. This plant is toxic to
children and pets.
Syngonium (Syngonium podophyllum)

The syngonium is a good houseplant to have if you can care for it properly.
It requires damp soil, so it must be watered frequently. It also requires
either high humidity or daily mis ng with lukewarm water. It does do well
in low light or shade, so it is a good plant for offices and home interiors.
The syngonium will filter the air of benzene, formaldehyde, xylene, and
toluene. This plant is toxic to children and pets.
Lacy Tree Philodendron (Philodendron selloum)

The lacy tree philodendron is not as common as other houseplants, but it is

a good one for cleaning the air of formaldehyde and carbon dioxide. This
houseplant is easy to care for, needing li le light and water. However, it
does need room to grow, as it can get quite large and bushy. This
houseplant is highly toxic to children and pets.
Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla)

The Norfolk Island Pine is a tree, but it is not actually a pine at all. This
houseplant is most commonly known as the Charlie Brown Christmas tree.
However, it is a good houseplant to have in your home year-round. It is
very easy to care for, as it does not need frequent watering and it does best
in low light condi ons. The Norfolk Island Pine will clean the air of
formaldehyde, xylene, and toluene. This plant is toxic to children and pets.
Dwarf Banana (Musa cavendishii)

The dwarf banana tree is a good addi on to your home if you can care for
it. It grows to about six feet in height and is great because it is one of the
few trees that are grown indoors that are not toxic to pets or children. It
will require lots of watering and some sunlight to flourish. The dwarf
banana tree will remove formaldehyde from the air and produces a lot of
oxygen.
Croton (Codiaeum variegatum pictum)

The croton houseplant is not for the faint of heart. This plant will greatly
filter the air in your home, elimina ng formaldehyde, xylene, and toluene.
However, it is extremely difficult to care for. You cannot put this plant in
direct sunlight, or the leaves will burn and drop. On the other hand, you
cannot have it in a low light room either, or it will wilt. Watering can also
be a problem, as too much or too li le will kill the plant quickly. However, if
you can find the right ligh ng and watering schedule, this houseplant is a
beau ful addi on to purify your home. This plant is toxic to children and
pets.
Peacock Plant (Caltheamakoyana)

The peacock plant is an excellent addi on to your home if you like exo c
looking houseplants. The markings on the leaves of this plant are exquisite.
However, it does take some careful care. You’ll need to avoid shady areas,
but it also should not be in direct sunlight. It needs small amounts of water
daily, and it also requires humidity. If you have a low humidity level in your
home, you will need to spray it with water daily. The houseplant does have
its merits, however, as it filters the air of xylene and toluene. This plant is
non-toxic to children and pets.
Urn Plant (Aechmea fasciata)

The urn plant is a very exo c looking houseplant that can be desirable as a
conversa on piece as well as an air purifier. It requires lots of indirect
sunlight. You will have to be very careful about watering this houseplant if
you want to keep it in its flowering stage. You’ll need to make sure that it
does not get too overwatered, but you’ll also have to make sure it doesn’t
get too dry. The urn plant filters the air of xylene, toluene, and ammonia.
This plant is non-toxic to children and pets.
Mass Cane (Dracaena massangeana)

Mass cane is another indoor tree that makes a good houseplant. Although
it can get quite large, it is very slow growing and will fit in a small space for
quite some me. Unlike many other indoor trees, the mass cane is easy to
care for. It needs only moderate light and only needs to be watered once
every one or two weeks. The mass cane, also known as the corn plant,
filters trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air. While not toxic to
humans, mass cane is dangerous for pets such as cats and dogs.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale)

Ginger is a plant that is not typically grown indoors, but with some care, it
can be a successful houseplant. Ginger is useful in many ways, with the
root being a common seasoning. Ginger is also purported to have many
health benefits, including reducing inflamma on. As a houseplant, ginger
will help eliminate carbon dioxide from your home. In addi on, it is a great
plant for adding humidity to your home. This plant is non-toxic to children
and pets.

Poisonous Plants
The following list of plants is also beneficial for air quality in your home but
some are toxic if ingested.
Please pay a en on to those plants I do not recommend and make a note
of their names to avoid future purchase. Keep this in mind if you have
children or pets that may take an interest in tas ng any of these plants.

As I am somewhat of an old codger, there’s not much in the small children

department in my home, but I do have pets which I’ve no ced show no
interest in any of my plants that fall into this group. I’ll let you be the best
judge regarding inclusion of any of these plants for your home.

A word of advice regarding any plants I list that are toxic. If you have any
concern about these plants and whether you should buy them, always,
always, check first with your doctor before making a purchase. Let me
repeat for those of you who may not be giving full a en on to what I just
said. Always check with your doctor before purchasing any of these plants
that are on the toxic list.

Ok, I’m off my pulpit so let’s con nue.

I have not included all toxic plants, only the more popular plants that are
usually found in the home.

Agave Plant

Parts that are toxic-

Leaves of this plant contain calcium- oxalate crystals.

Symptoms- leaf spine punctures can cause pain and swelling. Use good
gardener’s gloves that are spine resistant when handling this plant.

Angel’s Trumpet (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

All parts of plant.

Symptoms- Dry mouth, muscle weakness, dilated pupils, paralysis, rapid

heartbeat, seizures, fever, coma, possible death.
Sugges on- Do not purchase but do remember the name for your do not
buy list. Please take note of any toxic plant heading you should not bring
home, again, I’ll add “not recommended” next to the plants name.

Asparagus Fern (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

Berries and contact with plant sap.

Symptoms- Contact with sap may cause skin irrita on, swelling, blisters.
Ea ng berries may cause gastrointes nal problems.
Sugges on- If you have small children put this plant on your do not buy list.

Azalea (Not Recommended)

Not safe for humans or pets.

Ea ng of this plant may cause symptoms ranging from upset stomach to
serious heart and kidney problems.

Sugges on- Do not purchase but do remember the name for your do not
buy list.

Calla Lily (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

All parts of plant. (Plant contains calcium oxalate crystals).

Symptoms- Burning or swelling of tongue, lips, and throat. Stomach pain,

diarrhea, derma s, may be fatal to some children.

Sugges on- Definitely do not purchase but do remember the name for
your do not buy list.

Croton

Parts that are toxic

All parts of plant.

Symptoms- May cause skin rash, nausea, vomi ng, diarrhea when eaten.
Desert Rose (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

All parts of plant.

Symptoms- Plant may cause heart arrhythmia, and nausea. The plant sap is
used as arrow poison for hun ng in some areas of Africa.

Sugges on- Do not purchase but do remember the name for your do not
buy list.

Devils Ivy

Parts that are toxic-

Leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals.

Symptoms- May cause swelling of mucous membranes- mouth, tongue,

and throat also diarrhea.

Dracaena (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

Poisonous to pets but safe for humans

Sugges on- If you have inquisi ve pets, add this plant to your do not buy
list.

Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia) Not Recommended

Parts that are toxic-

All parts of plant (contain calcium oxalate crystals).
Symptoms- Swelling of lips, tongue, and throat; difficulty speaking, nausea,
vomi ng, diarrhea if plant eaten.

Sugges on- If you have inquisi ve children that may eat the leaves, add to
your do not buy list.
English Ivy (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

Leaves
Symptoms- Plant may cause weeping blisters, difficulty in breathing,
vomi ng, convulsions, paralysis, and coma.

If you have children, visi ng children, or pets, this plant is definitely not
recommended for your home.

Sugges on- Do not purchase but do remember the name for your do not
buy list.
Jerusalem Cherry (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

Plant leaves, unripe berries.

Symptoms- dilated pupils, loss of sensa on, vomi ng, fever, stomach pain,
respiratory problems, may be fatal.

Sugges on- Do not purchase but do remember the name for your do not
buy list.

Oleander (Not Recommended)

It is actually a tree that can grow to 30 feet tall. It is probably one of the
most deadliest you will ever encounter. Although quite a rac ve with
white or pinkish blooms I wouldn’t wish it on my worst enemy.

Parts that are toxic-

All parts of plant.

Symptoms- Arrhythmia; may cause death, bloody diarrhea, mouth pain,

vomi ng, nausea, cramps from inhaling burning stems or trunk of tree. The
water in a vase that you place cut flowers will become lethal if consumed.
This plant is just simply loaded with arsenic in its leaves.
Sugges on- Do not purchase but do remember the name for your do not
buy list.

Pencil Tree (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic- (Plant contains cardiac glycosides).

All parts of plant-

Symptoms- Causes swelling of lips, mouth, and throat, may produce

blisters, nausea, vomi ng, and diarrhea if eaten.

Sugges on- Put this plant on your do not buy list if you have inquisi ve
children that may eat the leaves.

Peace Lily (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

Leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals.

Symptoms- Swelling of lips, tongue, throat, may get derma s from root
sap.

Sugges on- Put this plant on your do not buy list if you have inquisi ve
children that may eat the leaves

Philodendron (Not Recommended)

Parts that are toxic-

All parts of plant (contains calcium oxalate crystals.)

Symptoms- May cause swelling of the lips, tongue, and throat. Difficulty
speaking, slurred words, also, nausea, vomi ng, and diarrhea.

Sugges on- Put this plant on your do not buy list if you have inquisi ve
children that may eat the leaves
Pothos (Devi’s Ivy) Not Recommended

Parts that are toxic-

All parts of plant (calcium oxalate crystals)

Symptoms- May cause skin irrita on, swelling and burning of lips, mouth,
tongue, and throat.

Sugges on- Put this plant on your do not buy list if you have inquisi ve
children that may eat the leaves

Care and Maintenance of Your Plants

With the proper care and maintenance, your plants will live longer
healthier lives providing you with a green living space. They are also a great
tool to teach your children how to care for nature as most kids already
have a natural curiosity and will take an interest in their parents' hobbies.
Top Tips for the Care and Maintenance of Your Houseplants

Water
 Ensure the soil is moist; this can be done by s cking your finger
into the soil up to the knuckle to ensure you are down below
surface level. The soil should feel damp and your finger should
not come away with too much moisture on when you take it
out of the soil. If there is excess water the soil is not draining
correctly, you will need to check the pot. If it is nice and damp,
the plant does not need watering. If it is dry your plant will
need water.
Check for signs and symptoms of over or under watering by
looking at the plant’s leaves.

Soil
If the soil has mold on it, it is best to re-pot as it may be old and
stale. If this is the case it is no longer benefi ng the plant.
If it is soggy it means that there is poor drainage and it is me
for new soil. You will have to check the plant's roots for rot or
damage.
There should be no salt buildup on the soil.
Remember to fer lize the soil regularly.

Light
Check what kind of ligh ng the plant requires.
Make sure it is posi oned in a spot that offers it the most
benefit for op mum health.
If under synthesized ligh ng condi ons make sure that the
plant is ge ng enough me out of the light.

Fer lizer
Choose a fer lizer that best suits both your lifestyle and is good
for your plants.
Follow the instruc ons on the fer lizer with care to ensure your
plant is ge ng the full benefits from the nutrients it has to
offer.

Repo ng
 Keep an eye on the plant as it may be outgrowing its current
home.
If po ng-up, make sure that the new pot is not too much
bigger than the current one. Plants do not like too much space.
Give the plant me to acclimate to its new environment before
filling it with nutrients.

Maintenance
Check the plant regularly for pests, diseases, and ailments.
If there are any signs of a disease or pests isolate the plant from
others and deal with it immediately so as not to spread to the
other plants.
It is a good idea to change the soil in po ed plants every once
in a while, to stop the soil from becoming stale and ro ng the
root system.
Use the hand fork to ll over the soil and keep it fresh.
Having a thermometer and water meter for the plants is a good
idea to ensure you are keeping your plants at their op mum
comfort.
Most flowering plants require between twelve to sixteen hours
of sunlight per day.
Plants that do not flower require between fourteen to sixteen
hours of sunlight per day.
Most plants like a lot of sunlight or a sunny room where they
are not directly in the sun's path.
Avoid moving plants from room to room or space to space.
Plants get used to their posi on and do not like to be moved
around. It can affect the plant especially if it is moved from a
very sunny spot to one that is a li le darker. They can go into a
sort of shock.
Some plants need a li le more humidity than others so a light
spray or humidifier will do the trick. Tropical plants will need a
lot of humidity and may wither without it. They are usually best
in or near a bathroom that gets a lot of shower steam.
 Plants need regular pruning to encourage growth, keep them
neat and cut away any dead foliage that can cause problems. If
leaves are le to fall off, they can turn to rot and cause soil
decay which in turn can bring about all sorts of fungus, bacteria
and or cri ers.
Never put tea, tea bags or any form of caffeine into your
planters these a ract flies and all sorts of other insects that will
infest the plants. The acid in these substances can also kill
plants that have a low tolerance for acidity.
Always do some research on your plant. Knowing what its
classifica on is, longevity is, what it needs and does not need
goes a long way in its care and maintenance. It also cuts down a
lot of trial and error on your part.
Not everyone has a green thumb but with a li le pa ence,
understanding and some research, you can quite easily care for
and maintain healthy plants.

Houseplant Insects

Although there are many insects that just love to make your house plants
home, I will deal with the most common your plants may encounter. If you
get a grip on these five culprits (which I’ll men on in a moment), you’re
well on the way to ensure your plants have a happy home environment.
But before we jump right in talking about each insect pest, let’s do a
something and use our power of observa on.
We learned a li le bit about observa on earlier when we talked about
inspec ng your plants for general good health. That is to say, plant
loca on, watering, light, salt buildup, etc.

We also know we got it right, when your plants look healthy and vibrant.
Therefore, it is easy to no ce any deteriora on in the plants general
appearance.

If one day you no ce one or more of your plants are not looking healthy,
then it’s me to take a closer inspec on.
Look for any leaf change that may become spo ed, cupped, or distorted.
Also, look at the edge or underside of leaves as well as where the leaf
a aches to the stem for any indica on of a silver webbing. You may also
no ce a substance that is s cky and shinny called honeydew on a leaf
surface or underside. Although the name sounds tasty in the fruit world, it
is not so for your plants because it not only indicates pest presence, it also
encourages sooty mold to grow on leaves crea ng black or dark smudges.

Unfortunately, indoor plants don’t have any natural predators to keep

insects in check therefore they mul ply rapidly. To reduce insect
infesta on, I suggest you check your plants once a week for any signs of
these li le cri ers.
Aphid

A so bodied insect, Aphids may come in different colors of white, green,

yellow, or black. They reproduce quickly and can infest a plant in a few
days. This li le culprit can cause yellow and distorted leaves, leave behind
a honeydew substance secreted by the insect that is usually a ached on
new plant growth.

Spider Mite

For such a li le cri er, they can sure do a lot of damage. This insect pest is
smaller than a pinhead but they can wreak havoc on your indoor plants.
They feed by sucking juices from the underside of leaves causing them to
turn yellow with a silver sheen and eventually the leaf will fall off. An
indica on of heavy spider mite infesta on is webbing they leave behind
and is likely the most detec ble clue of their presence.

When checking your plants for spider mites, because they are so small, use
a 10-power or higher magnifying glass to spot them. Another method and
one I use is placing a white sheet of paper directly below a leaf and give
the leaf a good shake. If there are any spider mites on the leaf they will fall
off on to the paper. If you no ce any ny specks that are moving you’re
plant has spider mites.
These ny pests love dusty plants, so discourage them from making your
plant(s) home by frequently wiping the plant leaves with a wet cloth. You
can also buy an organic product that is manufactured for use on indoor
plants to control spider mites. Most garden centers or your local nursery
have it available for a reasonable price.

Mealybug
Unlike spider mites, these cri ers are easy to see. They are small co on
like insects that inhabit the underside of plant leaves or stems, and like the
aphid they also secret a honeydew waste product.

This s cky layer will also cause a fungus called sooty mold to develop on
the plants leaf. Mealybugs like most insect pests are hard to control if they
get out of hand. Their feeding weakens and stunts plants causing leaf
distor on and quite possibly total leaf loss.
The best way to control this pest as with others is regular plant inspec on
and immediate ac on. I inspect my plants for pests each me I water. If
you no ce an early presence of mealybugs, flush the area where they are
located with water which will cause them to fall off. If you no ce a large
infesta on of this pest you can rub off the colonies with a cloth.

As with any indoor plant, another op on is buying an organic insec cidal

soap or hor cultural oils for use on your plants.

Even though these products are quite good at controlling insect pests, if
you fail to check on a regular basis and your plants become completely
infested, nothing will work and your only op on may be to get rid of the
plant. But do give it a good try before you take this dras c ac on.

Whitefly

As the name says these ny insects look like white flies and flu er around
any infested plant that you happen to brush against. Like other plant pests,
they feed on the underside of leaves and yes, produce honeydew. Plant
growth is stunted and leaves cup up, appear dry, or turn yellow and die.
Low popula on of whiteflies is not usually serious and plant damage does
not occur unless there is a significant increase in the popula on of whitefly
nymphs. Unfortunately, management of heavy whitefly infesta on is very
difficult to control if at all with any available insec cide.

Because these cri ers can fly and move on to other plants, it is my advice
to get rid of overly infested plant or isolate it from other plants in your
home.
Scale

As unsightly as scale may appear, they are probably the least damaging
insect pest to your indoor plants.

This pest has a shell like covering for protec on and is usually found on
plant stems or the underside or top surface of leaves. Once they arrive
they usually remain sta onary having very limited movement.
Scale feeding usually produces distorted plant growth and honeydew.
Small numbers are not life threatening to your plants but the honeydew
they produce may cause sooty mold that greatly reduce light to the plants
leaves which are used to create photosynthesis.

To rid your plants of this cri er, use hor cultural oils such as “Dormant oil,”
or “Supreme Oil,” or any specialty oil for scale removal. When using any
insec cide, read the direc ons carefully before use.
Top 10 Indoor Tips & Tricks
Now that you understand some of the ways we can successfully grow
fruits, vegetables and herbs in the comfort of our own homes, I wanted to
share some ps with you that I’ve picked up over the years that help to
summarize some of the things we have already discussed.

1. Indoor plants always tend to grow toward a light source

It could be the window near the garden or the ar ficial
grow lights. Either way, keep this in mind when se ng up
the garden and try to keep all plants equidistant from
light sources when possible to promote ver cal growth. If
you no ce your plants started to bend to one side or the
other, consider rota ng them to compensate.
2. Always make sure indoor plants receive enough light.
Whether from a window, an ar ficial grow light or both,
plants need a minimum of five hours of sunlight each day
and some varie es require double that to bear fruit.
3. More plants die from improper watering than any other
problem. Follow the sec on on watering to make sure
your plants are ge ng exactly the right amount of water.
Of course, in hydroponic and aquaponic systems,
watering is automa c but this is not the case in container
gardens.
4. Don’t be afraid to clean your plants from me to me.
Wiping down leaves keeps dust and debris from
accumula ng and results in healthier, more robust
plants.
5. Remember that your plants need adequate airflow to
flourish. Stale, stagnant air will adversely affect plant
growth. If natural airflow isn’t present, use a small fan to
move air over and through the garden.
 6. Be mindful of temperature. Ideally, the temperature in
your home should be around 70°F during the day and
approximately 10° colder at night. This mimic the
condi ons of plants in outdoor gardens.
7. Keep records of what you have planted, when you
planted it and what type of fer lizer was used. You can
also monitor which plants do best near other plants. As
you develop this system, you will no ce trends which can
be used to maximize produc on in future years.
8. Make sure your plants are ge ng enough food.
Especially in container gardens, every me you water
some nutrients are flushed from the soil. Either add small
amounts of liquid fer lizer or add more compost to
maintain the nutrient level required for op mum growth.
9. Choose the right soil. Using soil directly from outside
usually results in weeds and bacteria being introduced to
the indoor growing medium. Use purpose-built po ng
soil or organic compost for best results.
10. Ensure your containers have proper drainage to avoid
root rot and other problems usually associated with poor
drainage.

Conclusion
Thank you for making it through to the end of Houseplants for Beginners. I
really hope it was informa ve and able to provide you with all the tools
you need to achieve your goals, whatever they may be.

Houseplants liven up a home, refresh and purify the air inside your home
and remove toxins. There is a houseplant to suit everyone's needs, decor
and environment. Before choosing your plant(s) get a good idea of where
you would like to place it/them, so you are be er equipped to get the best
plant for the room and space it is to fill. Remember to check on the plant’s
toxicity level should you have animals or children in the house.

Go window shopping for plants and get a good idea of which plants suit
your needs and fit into your lifestyle. You must get a plant that you can
manage and maintain to keep it and your environment a healthy one.

Choosing nice bright pots and pu ng the plants in areas that they will not
only thrive in but are well within view will ensure that you do not forget
they are there. Even if you have one or two plants to catch your eye, they
will remind you that you have them and they will need some a en on.

This book has also been thorough in explaining each houseplant and what
they eliminate from the air. Also included was the informa on of what is
toxic to small children and pets. Use this informa on to determine which
plants are most likely to work in your home or office. As always, make sure
that anything toxic to small children or pets is out of reach or not used in
your home at all if you have either.

If you would like to use some of the houseplants in this book that are a bit
harder to cul vate, visit a nursery to find the plants and get more
informa on. The nursery where you purchase your houseplants should be
able to give you more detailed care informa on than what is found in this
book. They should also be able to help you if you run into problems a er
purchasing the plants.

A note on kids, if they are curious about the plants do not discourage
them. In fact, the more they learn about plants and plan ng the be er.
With the green ini a ve in full force around the world, it is a good thing to
learn about. If a kid wants to help with watering, plan ng and going to the
nursery it is a good hobby to encourage. It is a great family bonding
exercise that is both fun and educa onal. As long as they know that they
can only tend to the plants when supervised by an adult.

Plants are not that hard to care for and with this guide, and a bit of work
on your part you will be plan ng, growing, and maintaining instead of
killing your indoor plants in no me at all.